Best lighting low voltage transformers according to redditors

GOLDEDIT: omg my first gold! Thanks anon!

THE TRIGGER WIRE CAN BE CONNECTED TO Vin + or Vout +

How it looks now: https://i.imgur.com/Xmro9I5.jpg

Parts list (canadian, but you can find everything on amazon and/or ebay, or locally):

Heater Board and Coil: https://www.amazon.ca/BAQI-5V-12V-Voltage-Induction-Heating/dp/B0747NBTBX

MOSFET Relay (for operating the momentary switch): https://www.amazon.ca/DROK-Transistor-Driving-Electronic-Controller/dp/B01J78FX9S (if you want to do this project with NO SOLDERING you could get this higher wattage MOSFET relay)

Power Supply (or if you have one from an xbox 360 it'll work) This one also includes the female jack: https://www.amazon.ca/Signcomplex-Supply-Transformer-Switching-Adapter/dp/B075R3RW6J

Glass tube: https://www.amazon.ca/Dunlop-202-Dun-Bottleneck-Slide-Reg/dp/B0009EQMZE

Main power switch: https://www.amazon.ca/Pilot-PLSW26-Safety-Racing-Toggle/dp/B000GTMUUI

Momentary Switch to activate the coil ONLY while pressed: https://www.amazon.ca/Ulincos-U16A1-Black-Button-Switch/dp/B015X34IP6

You'll also need some 18ga stranded wire, an enclosure, and some soldering skills/equipment.

A few things to consider:

1. Yes, it's possible to get 220/240V in an American house, in fact most modern houses have a higher voltage connection in the laundry (for the dryer) as well as for electric stoves. These appliances use a special plug, that you can get from most home improvement stores.
   
2. Beware that even though you can get 220V, the frequency is different. USA uses 60Hz, while most of the rest of the world uses 50Hz. This could affect your power supply if it's not designed for multi frequency.
   
3. Check with a licensed electrician if there are no code restrictions where you live, hopefully the only requirement is to have a GFI type breaker if you're installing in a place that could get wet.
   
4. Be prepared to pay an electrician about $1000-$1500 to bring in a new circuit from your breaker box, I had this done in my basement to support some reflowing equipment (for fixing BGA CPU's) that required 220V circuit.
   
5. You technically could do it yourself, however since you stated "no clue when it comes to electricity", I'd get a licensed pro in to do it (else the results could be rather shocking... haha)
   
   After all that - are sure it's not easier just to get a 110V rated PSU for your equipment instead? Doing this is probably a lot cheaper/easier that trying to hook up 220V... Or how about one of these bad boys? Here's another great article that you might enjoy reading on the subject.

I did self adhesive led strips mounted to 1/4" aluminum angle stock. I screwed the aluminum stock to the face frame under the cabinets and oriented it so the led strips were facing the wall and one side of the angle stock was facing towards the countertop.

I used a dimmable 12vdc power supply and put it on a standard 120vac dimmer switch. The aluminum acts as a heat sink and when you look down at the glossy counter top, you can't see the leds. Worked pretty well.

Out of curiosity, what are you using these for? 11.5 watts per meter is a pretty high current requirement and your light output is going to likely be high to match. 11.5 watts per meter would yield ~57.5w for the entire 5m strip and require a minimum of 4.8A for power supply.

For reference, I bought these for our under cabinet lighting which are rated at 2.6 watts per foot or ~42w per 16'. This would require a minimum 3.5A power supply for the entire strand, though individual power supplies may be used. I don't have it all hooked up currently, but I'm using a 12v/1A psu for ~4.5' and it's barely enough.

The relationship between power, current and voltage is easy. Current = Power/Voltage. In the case of the strand you linked, 11.5w/M times 5 meters will equal 57.5 watts for the entire strand, or the power requirements for that particular model. 57.5(power) divided by 12v (voltage) gives you 4.8A of current consumption at full tilt. It's generally good to over supply your power so to run the entire thing on one supply you'd need a 5.5-6A psu. With that kind of current draw, you also have to consider the wiring needed. 18awg wire is generally rated at 7a, but that depends on the length of wire you need (to compensate for voltage drop), how its insulated, and how many wires will be carrying the load.

Generally, any basic 12v power supply will work. I have mine hooked up to a random old 12v wall wart, but you can get led specific drivers like this which have the transformer built in as well as overload protection and sometimes thermal protection. You can also get them up to 150w to run, say, a large kitchen with crown lighting, under cabinet lighting, and kick plate lighting. I've also read about people doing entire decks/patios with the larger PSUs.

As far as connecting them to the power or each other, you will either need to solder lines between them or buy brand specific connectors like these which have power connectors, direct connectors and 6" extension connectors. No soldering required and trust me, they're worth it.

tl;dr - Get a 6a psu or transformer for the entire strand or numerous smaller psu's if you want individual lights on individual circuits (say for switching purposes). FYI, a power supply with more than 6a (or whatever you need for "X" feet of light) won't hurt the lights. The lights only draw what they need. The amperage rating on a psu is simply the capacity, not the amount of current its pushing to the load.

Yeah I got the warm white versions cause I wanted them less blue looking.

For dimmer this is what I got: http://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-Dimming-Controller-LED-Lights/dp/B003L4KKF2/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1381518684&sr=1-1&keywords=led+dimmer

You're also going to need a power supply. I got this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Ledwholesalers-Power-Suppply-Driver-Transformer/dp/B0034GUEY4/ref=pd_sim_hi_1

However, I wired all my wires by hand. They do have jacks on them though as well.

Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Ledwholesalers-Inline-Dimmer-LED-Strips/dp/B004T9ITQ0/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1381518743&sr=1-4&keywords=led+dimmer

And then you can use a generic laptop type power adapter as long as the wattage is correct. I plan on revamping my setup at some point to make it easier to setup.

you may have to plug both strips in to the controller with a splitter or by splicing as daisy chaining the strips end to end may cause the last LEDs on the chain to be noticeably dimmer than the first due to resistance.

Edit looking at it again I was assuming all white for the power supply rgb has the potential to exceed that limit. Try these I've had a lot of luck with them and they are well made.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003WOIVRU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yba1DbFJYRKVS

That's a 60w version, there's also a 150w version if you really want to go crazy, I've powered a kitchen with an obscene amount of built in lighting with one.

Also you may need a barel plug for the power supply if not hard wiring. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J1WZENK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Jha1DbK5B56WM

Not really. I built a few of these for my closet. Got a led strip, 24v psu, and a couple magnetic switches for less than $50. Had enough to do the entire closet, couple drawers, and the underside of my kitchen cabinets. Those little LED strips are fucking handy.

LED strips are wonderful for that. Amazon sells them.
I used LED strips attached to an outdoor light-sensistive timer put on top of the cabinets, so I have light-sensitive LED underlighting.
Quick shot of my lighting

[strip] (http://www.amazon.com/Hitlights-Flexible-Ribbon-Adapter-included/dp/B005GL5R56/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1370794301&sr=8-3&keywords=led+strip)
power source
I put mine near the front of the cabinet, so they wouldn't ever be visable. If you want a wider range of light, put them closer to the back, and they'll cover the whole cabinet.
Good luck!

https://www.amazon.com/Rextin-Regulated-Transformer-Supply-Driver/dp/B06Y21KB96

You should redesign this and remove that as you call it 'fancy switch' and get a proper home automation system. I use Vera a vera Lite

Then you can do so much more. For example I use this on my RGBW light strips.

As for the power yes as other have said you need to use the existing outlets to power a 12 volt power supply. I use these for that.

Now that you have the Zwave hub then you can start to automate many other lights in the house.

Check out r/homeautomation/ for more ideas

"Used for any 12 volt application (motorcycle, car or suv auto modding)."

You need a 12 volt adapter. Find one for purchase.

I bought this driver: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0034GUEY4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_o7BMybQDSS3MG

These LEDs: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005EHHLD8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_t8BMybSXEXV0P

And this is the result: http://imgur.com/n3E2Fkh

The LEDs installed real easy, the adhesive is strong and I've not had any problems in 6 months of use

A couple different ways depending on how you want them ran.
If you have a 12v patio light transformer/timer you could just cut each bulb out and wire in a socket and then put in a led bulb after that cut off the plug and splice on a wire and run it to the 12v patio box.
If no patio box you would need a 120v ac to 12v DC converter where you would cut if the plug and splice it to the converter.
Also depending on what type of bulb is in there you may be able to find just the bulbs and change them.
Take a picture of the bulb and socket so I can see what type of base it is

I mean the siren isn't a bad idea, just not a 130dB one :) Since Wyze cam is currently the top comment, an easy solution would be to get a Wyze plug and plug a siren into it (note you need a transformer for the one I linked).

Now that said, the right thing to do would be to get a proper security system with door/window/motion sensors. There are lots, Ring Alarm is a popular cheap one currently (and yes it has a siren). You could still add a Wyze cam or similar to try to catch any intruders after the fact, but I would never rely on camera motion sensors for intrusion detection.

Just read your question again.

There are no cameras I'm aware of that can accept a direct 120v input with no transformers. I doubt very much you will find one- no security installer wants to deal with 120v power (so there isn't much market for such a thing), and it would greatly increase the cost of the camera.

The closest I'm aware of is there used to be 120v powered camera enclosures that would internally supply 12-24vdc for an analog camera. Those however have gone the way of the dodo bird, because if you are in such extreme environments that you need a heated camera, there are now lots of PoE powered heated cameras available.

However, if you want to use installed cable only, that doesn't mean you're SOL.

Get a 120v hardwired power supply like this one. It's designed for LEDs but it should drive a 12v camera no problem. Put that in an external waterproof box and wire it up and you're good to go.

Here are the components I got:

RGB LED Strip Lights Kit,BEILAI RGB LED Light Strip Waterproof SMD 5050 DC 12V Flexible Neon Tape 16.4 Ft (5M) 300leds with 44key Controller for Christmas Kitchen Party Indoor and Outdoor decoration https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KSPR5GS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_p6mWBbZ9XWQ7N

EvZ 22AWG 4pin LED Electric Wire 22 Gauge 33ft 10m Conductor Extension Cable Line Cord for RGB LED Strip 5050 3528 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DPQMKBS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_r7mWBbSQEZB0T

EvZ 10PCS LED 5050 RGB Strip... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CMLLKHG?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

12V DC Battery Pack, 6000 mAh... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00U2PVX36?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

And a bunch of male/female connectors - but I can’t find the link. Also make power connectors for the power bank.

Soldering was a pain because the led leads are so close together. Used a knitting ring in the hoodie opening to keep it stiff and hot glued the whole contraption onto some black sweats. No time this year but I want to play with Tron type costumes next year.

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0747NBTBX

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B074HV582Q

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00004WLK5

You also need an insulator. The parts I used called for a Solo 2 18mm bong adapter but they are like $30cdn. I used DH gate. Search 18mm bong adapter and find one that looks similar to the solo 2.

Also, that power supply has gone up in price. I don't know if you wanna look for a different cheaper one. But that one is good.

I'm uk based. I just searched "12v battery pack" on amazon.

Am.com has loads too...

something like that

https://www.amazon.com/HitLights-Rechageable-Lithium-Ion-Battery-Pack/dp/B00U2PVX36

Just run extension cords behind the wall or within the cabinets. That way stove heat won't be a problem. If you want to save money just buy bulk wire. But if you connect more than 16ft of lights in a single circuit, then you needed an amplifier which needs to be plugged into an extra power supply otherwise the lights near the ends of the circuit will be dimmer and also off color. Color correctness comes from adequate power.

I've done a couple installs of under cabinet LED strip lighting and I've found these LEDs to be very nice for the price: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R5NUUAK/. I used a 40W magnetic transformer like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007KWVFXC/. If using a dimmer switch, you need to use one compatible with magnetic transformers, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006UUI06. Electronic transformers are another cheaper option, but you'd want to look into the pros/cons.

I know I'm not really answering your question here... but we just installed 5 more foot of cabinet space and my wife wanted some under cabinet lighting. I looked on Amazon and most of the stuff was pretty expensive.

I opted instead to do LED strip lighting and ordered 32' of it + transformer + dimmer for the same price as 24" of any of the other solutions. The pluses are:

• LED strips can be cut into 2" sections so you can cut it to length (soldering is required but very minor and simple)
  
• The strips have sticky back so you can stick it right under the counter. I used some glue to help some parts stay but not too necessary.
  
• Very low voltage and power consumption.
  
• Wires are easy to hide
  
  Pics are here: http://imgur.com/a/R6ynJ
  
  Here's what I got:
  
  Transformer/Power Supply
  
  Warm White LED Strips (16ft)
  
  Dimmer w/Wireless Remote
  
  I used 2x 16ft strips and it worked just fine. Came up to a total of $63.25
  

The Chanzon drivers on amazon are pretty cheap and work amazing for me.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MSANIYC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A14FP9XIRL6C1F

Wow, you just solved it and I am an idiot. I ordered 2 Power Supplies, one was supposed to be this 12V 360W PSU for the RAMPS/etc. and the other is this 24V 500W PSU exclusively for the Heated Bed.

I could have sworn I double checked but I just looked and it seems I have 2 24V PSUs. Was looking for the model number on the one connected to the RAMPS and it says s-360-24 on the side sigh.

Well that explains why it fried it. Time to return that for the correct PSU.

Yes, if you find the transformer, then replacing it with a 12v transformer that has a minimum rating below the draw of your LED lamps will make them work.
They are 3W each, so all six would be 18W, but I'm sure they rounded up. I'd make sure the minimum rating of the new transformer is below 15W just to be sure if you go with a transformer designed for halogen lights, or just go with one designed for led lights that is more than 18W as its max rating.

Power supply link

I also used a 12mm fire button, a mini slide on off switch and 18awg wire from analogboxmods.ca and an enclosure was just from the dollar store.


I tried to wire in an led from analogboxmods as well, but I think it burnt it out so I just took that right out of the build.


You will also need to solder a few spots but it's not too hard to do at all, some connections are just screw in though.

I have retrofitted two kitchens with LED under cabinet lighting, both before tiling the backsplash, each at a cost under $100 USD. The first has been going strong for almost 10 years.

First, IMO under cabinet lighting is task lighting. It doesn't need to be dimmable and doesn't need to be RGB, just go with a warm or cool temperature depending on your preference.

This is what I suggest - I assume you are in the U.S...

1. Run 18AWG Low Voltage LED Cable 2 Conductor Jacketed in-Wall Wire from the back of a selected base cabinet through the wall(s) to each contiguous span of upper cabinets. These wires can terminate in a small box in, or under, the cabinet. The wiring also can be daisy-chained if needed. For example, a wire can be used to connect cabinet spans that are separated by a small distance, say by a range hood.
   
2. Wire a switched 110v outlet into the same base cabinet. This only needs to be operated by a single switch,, probably over the counter, or near an entrance to the kitchen area.
   
3. Use LED 5050 Flexible Strip Lights, Warm White 3000K 16.4ft 300 LEDs (or whatever color temp you prefer) inside Litever 6-Pack 3.3ft/1 Meter 9x18mm U Shape Aluminum Channels with Diffuser cut at custom lengths to match the widths of cabinet spans. These should be mounted at the front of the cabinet and a small wiring channel used to hide the wiring under the cabinet were it runs from front to back.
   
4. Drive the LED strips by a LEDwholesalers 12-Volt DC Waterpoof LED Power Suppply Driver Transformer with 3-Prong Plug, 60W, 3204-12V (or something similar) mounted in the base cabinet with the low-voltage wiring and switched outlet.
   
   I used these items. This setup is simple and inexpensive, any one component can be replaced easily if it fails, and it can be controlled by a smart switch of your choice.
   
   If you want mood lighting, then you can wire 110v outlets above the cabinets and use one, or two of Philips - Hue Play White & Color Ambiance Smart LED Bar Light to shine on the ceiling, or use Philips Hue bulbs in your recessed light cans.

This should be what you need

https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Kitchen-Christmas-Non-waterproof-Daylight/dp/B00HSF65MC

https://www.amazon.com/Freshinsoft-12V-Power-Supply-Transformers/dp/B075NZYZVT

I guess you could call it DIY, but it was pretty easy. I bought the components from Amazon:

• 5 meter strip of "warm" led lights
  
• 120 to 12V 30 Watt power supply/transformer
  
• PWM Dimmer
  
  The transformer plugs into the wall and then into the dimmer (I extended the wires using 12v wire I had on hand and butt contectors) then 2 wires out of the dimmer into the strip of lights. The light strip comes with a standard looking DC connector, which I removed and just hard wired it. I also used the entire strip, but it can be cut every two inches at certain points. If you choose to cut the strip, you will need to solder the wires onto the strip. Since I used the entire strip I just used the included wire (after removing the DC connector thing)

So the panels are just pieces of finish quality ply, with different items attached.

Panel 1 has a counter bell from a kitchen supply store (the top comes off and I screw through the base to attach it. Just make sure that you place clapper of the bell so that gravity holds it down.)

Panel 2. The sparkly letters are duck tape. There's a scrub sponge and a piece of sandpaper..

Panel 3 is just general hardware, plus a retracing key ring that I get at Lowes. If you ask the key guy for miscuts, he'll probably have a box full to give you.

Panel 4: I bent a sprayed a piece of round stock, then punched a hole through a dowel, which I then cut into the sliders.

Panel 5. You can buy little spring clips, a D-ring and chain, hook them together and it clicks and rattles.

The LEDs were a real learning experience. LEDs run on DC, so you need an transformer to step the 120V AC from an outlet down to 12VDC. (I used this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0034GUEY4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage) I mounted it in the end with the LEDs (you can tell how deep that area is, that's to give it all room to breathe) I used little pucks to keep it from being against the wood, because if you leave it plugged in for hours at a time, it does get hot. Power exits from that into the switches (which are just standard house units),in parallel then into the LEDs, which are wired in series.

LEDs will self-limit. That means (as far as I could teach myself) that if you string the right number together, they don't need resistors to regulate them, or they need very small resistors. I used http://www.hobby-hour.com/electronics/ledcalc.php to calculate. (FWIW, I miscalculated at some point and exploded a string). Small loss.

LEDs run cool, so once I had them all in place, I just epoxied them into the end plate. and heat shrunk all of the wiring. Then I connected the switches and closed up the box.

I think. It's been more than a year since I did it. Of course, I should have written everything down and taken progress pictures, but alas....

(I mostly used the power of google on how to wire the LEDs, as far as power and mounting boards.)

Two channels of light (two controllers, two lights per controller)...
Lights: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I3UHFMK

Controller (wifi, requires firmware flash to work with SmartThings): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GJMRLUY

Power supply: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003WOIVRU

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B075R3RW6J/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's not quite the USB route but Prehaps if you used a benchtop PSU, you could power just about any regulated mod you'd like to (they're expensive)

You could use something like this https://www.amazon.com/ALITOVE-Adapter-Converter-100-240V-5-5x2-1mm/dp/B01GEA8PQA and then connect it to a ge raptor120 https://www.digikey.com/catalog/en/partgroup/naos-raptor-series/25339 and set the voltage to 4V with a pot. and then power any single cell regulated device you wanted, dna40/75. you could also use the raptor to directly power your vape without the board.

I realize that's not the most convenient or direct route, but you're not going to easily get a USB plug to give your 20V and than you still have to make that usable. The tried and true method would be a computer PSU and a dna200/250/c, but you're looking at spending a pretty penny. Same if you were to try to buy a bench top adjustable PSU

​

Another option is since you're not using much power, you could get a dna250/c or a dna75c and plug it into a regular usb port, the 2A (10W) charger should be able to keep up with you vaping on it.

​

I think part of the issue with using USB-C is; the cables arn't rated to handle vaping current, and the chargers are.. 'intelligent' assuming you got the charger to push out it's maximum voltage of 20V, you still have the issue of dropping that voltage to something usable by a vape. most of the common buck converters you'll find that meet the 30W power are either 6/12/24 volts.

> Power Supply: ($14 x 3) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017R17YQC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I like the compactness of this supply and I'm in a similar situation to the OP. I have about 6 of romex coming from the backsplash wall to each current set of halogen under cabinet lights, which is somewhat limiting where I can relocate the power supply without dealing with pulling new wire. These are small enough where I may be able to just keep them under the cabinet. Thanks for the part links.

To power your controller and LED strip, you'll need a power supply/transformer like, LEDwholesalers 12 Volt DC Waterpoof LED Power Suppply Driver Transformer with 3-Prong Plug, 30W, 3207 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0034GUEY4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Cu1tyb54516DB

The positive/12v cable connects to the PWR slot on the Fibaro, along with the positive cable from your power supply.

The longer the LED strip, the more wattage you'll need off the transformer.

I've found the above 30w to power a full 20 foot run easily.

It's a garbage power supply. Buy a decent one. Definitely make sure you don't overload it with too long of a strip. A 5 meter 12V strip usually needs 60W. Any fraction smaller than that and you can get a smaller power supply. If these words don't mean anything to you then you need to get learning on youtube.

I've had good luck with the 30W and 60W versions of this:

https://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-Waterpoof-Suppply-Transformer-3207/dp/B0034GUEY4/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=led+wholesalers+power+supply&qid=1574379699&sr=8-7

sure thing, thanks for the response!

And understood on the point of they wont necessarily be 7.5A each.

Total load of the device however is around 4A, split 1A at 30v /3A at 12v

1. I've decided for the 12v supply to also go with a double insulated. Both brands are meanwell, and both are class 2
   
   LPC-35-1050 - powering 1 chip on board LED
   https://www.arrow.com/en/products/lpc-35-1050/mean-well-enterprises
   
   and LPV-35-12 - powering a 12v LED strip, 3 fans, 1 pump, and arduino
   https://www.amazon.com/LPV-35-12-Supply-Driver-90-264-Output/dp/B00IO1W38E/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_23_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=M533CWTP0HM8K1038JWX&dpID=41%252BqirwjtGL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail
   
   
2. power supplies will be at most 2ft from receptacle
   
   
3. DC is being run in <1sqft direction from power supplies
   
   >But if all you were planning on doing was twisting them together and putting some tape over it? That's how people get hurt. That's how fires get started. That's how people die.
   
   fair enough, and i absolutely appreciate that. Are butt clips suitable in this case? or should i also be getting a small box like this
   
   https://www.amazon.com/BUD-Industries-NBF-32016-Plastic-Economy/dp/B07CY9KVW1/ref=sr_1_7?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1526137598&sr=1-7&keywords=electrical+box
   

I am also a neophyte, but have made several diy grow lights recently. Take everything I write with giant grains of salt.

You can buy a CXB3590 (3500 K, 36VDC) for $38 from digikey. An LED holder from newark ( http://www.newark.com/ideal/50-2303cr/led-holder-cree-cxa35-cob-array/dp/39X0077 ) runs about $3. You can buy a 900mA driver for it off amazon for $11 ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSANIYC ). You can buy a household AC box and a light switch for about $5 from home depot. Scrounge a PC AC cable, some wire for the DC side, some solder. Dig through old electronics for a good heat sink, a fan. Ask some computer folks for thermal paste.

That would bring you close to $50.

From that you can make a 30W led light, I think get over 5000 lumens, and it'd probably be pretty good quality, and not terribly dangerous.

For the AC side, do everything in the electrical box, and make sure it's grounded. Random stuff happens, don't let it happen to you. Electrical shock sucks, but poorly done AC wiring stuff could get hot, start a fire, so putting it in a box is a must. And it's really nice to have a the AC switch. You could simplify, leave out the switch, and use wire nuts, but it's still absolutely necessary to do that in a box and ground that box.

On the DC side, I used these barrel connectors ( https://www.amzn.com//B06Y4YXRMC ) with the wiring to the LED. It's also nice. EDIT: I don't know what these connectors are rated for, but they seemed pretty sturdy.

Sorry, again, I have some electronics background, but I'm new to lighting, so it's foolish of me to even comment.

https://www.amazon.com/Rextin-Regulated-Transformer-Supply-Driver/dp/B06Y21KB96

available up to 450W, cheap as dirt. mount vertical or on a shelf.

You need an LED "driver" like this to get you to 12 volts DC for the LEDs. Then you can use a 12 VDC dimmer like this.

You can absolutely use the https://www.amazon.com/Freshinsoft-12V-Power-Supply-Transformers/dp/B075NZYZVT/ref=sr_1_254?keywords=12v+driver+led&qid=1566073280&s=gateway&sr=8-254 just as long as the light and USB charger won't use more than 2 watts. Hard to say since I don't have paperwork on the light in question!

One option is to keep the 12V buck off-board and buck the smaller supplies off of the 12V going into your card.

https://www.amazon.com/GALYGG-Switching-Universal-Regulated-Transformer/dp/B06XRDGKHZ/

Ok, if this was me....

I'd use Noctua fans (They're nearly silent and I've used a bunch for different things); https://noctua.at/en/products/fan They're available on Amazon.

Then install a 12V converter inside the fridge; tap into the 120V AC power from the fridge after the power comes inside the unit. This looks to be a small compact unit that will supply more than enough power. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XRDGKHZ/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_DE9ADb64FBEXZ

Then install your fans, wire them up in parallel to the output size of this.

NOTE: depending on where you tap into the 120V line for the transformer will determine if the fans only run when the unit is on, or if it they are always running if the unit is plugged in. (Basically if you tap into the line right when it comes into the unit then they will run if the unit is plugged in; if you can find a spot to tap into it after a relay or something similar that is only hot when the unit is on... then you should be able to get it to power on only when the unit is on.

I haven't seen any 120v Zigbee controllers that output to 12/24v DC. Only ones like this for normal lighting fixtures: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GSK1HVP

If that grey wire just plugs into a receptacle, maybe you could just use something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BTQJ8S5

and power it with a 120 watt power supply adapter:

https://www.amazon.com/BINZET-Converter-Lighting-Transformer-Flexible/dp/B07FQCF8WF

you would need to get something specialized.. the ones for your hair dryer in the travel kit aren't rated for sustained high draw.

​

call a german electrician.

​

you need a step down converter rated for 1500W or so

http://www.voltconverter.com/how-to-choose-a-voltage-converter.html

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this one is 5k watts max

https://smile.amazon.com/LiteFuze-LT-5000-Voltage-Converter-Transformer/dp/B008GQTXS0/

I tried gutting the old fluorescent fixtures and putting these strips in them with these power supplies. I only did two of the 6 so far because I wanted to see how they held up after a year or so.

So far so-so, its more work than its worth and I would rather buy some than do the rest of them, but I haven't found any that look good and are hard wired for 110V (most have plugs).

I suppose I will finish them eventually as I already have all the parts.

Also, I can control them all with this remote, which is nice.

I got this power supply. The 60 Watt UL-Listed one.
Does the UL-Listed mean that it's fine? It's branded as HitLights.

Nice choice to start. I wouldn't have offered information about the lighting without being willing to share.

I found this LED srtip on amazon. The LED strip came with the controller box, the remote and the correct size barrel adaper. It is a 12V set up. But it didn't come with an actual power adapter so I found this one. Unfortunately, the adhesive that is on the back of the LED strip loses it grip to the strip. I removed the adhesive by hand an I used this tape, which is on the expensive side but I worked with it at an old job and it will not fail. You will also need a soldering iron, solder, and some 22 AWG wire.

Before I replaced the adhesive, I had measured out the strip into the lengths that I need and cut along one of these lines. You will need to remove rubber coating that is over the pads. I used wires to bridge the sections of the strip that needed to be spaced out. I also had the wire measured out to bridge the levels on the shelf also. I located the strip right against the front face of the shelves to hide it from view as you can see from the last image.

If there is anything else that you have a question about let me know. I will admit that it was a time consuming and a bit of a pain in the ass. But it worked out well.

More like this. Just trim off the end and splice the wires together. If this isn't something you are comfortable with, I'd return it and get a single unit strip + power supply.

I suppose a 12V battery would work, but it wont run for very long

Here's a list of the parts for everyone:

LED Strip
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ALTHLLG/ref=oh_details_o01_s02_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sound Sensor
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BOM93VK/ref=oh_details_o01_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Power Supply
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0034GUEY4/ref=oh_details_o01_s02_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

IRF 520
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001HFD7N4/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Arduino Starting Kit
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051QHPJM/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yeah I should have included a screenshot of my calculation. Here's what I went off of, from led.linear1.org: https://imgur.com/a/O8o4Zo2

The power supply I bought is rated to 5A max, so I don't think it's the power supply. I bought this one specifically: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GEA8PQA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

As for the resistor, the calculator said it only needed to dissipate 1/4W so that's what I went with. Or it might have been 1/2W but it definitely wasn't super high power. Is that not accurate?

I got this one from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Supply-Transformer-AC100-240V-Switching-Adapter/dp/B075R3RW6J?psc=1&SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-iphone-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B075R3RW6J

I recommend modifying it to use a standard household bulb. You are essentially building a sconce. I would look into something like these plus a 12V PSU like this. You will also need a socket like this.

Is there a plug that lets me take this to molex?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007ME2HMQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

that's how theyre currently plugged in.

I had undercabinet florescent with power coming directly into them, and I replaced them with a combination of led strip lighting, diffusers and individual power supplies. Then I changed the switch to a GE z-wave. Here's a list of the products I used:

Power Supply: ($14 x 3)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017R17YQC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

LED Lights: ($8) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSF64JG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Diffusers: ($26)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PJSUZSK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Zwave Switch (now they are $38, but I got some on clearance for $21)

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Required-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1519156674&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=ge+zwave&psc=1

All in all I replaced lighting under the three main cabinets and the total cost was under $100. I'm not sure it was the best way to do it, but it works! For my application dimming wasn't what I was looking for, but I think you could swap out some parts for the dimmable versions.

I thought the same thing, until I got a strip. Now I have led's behind my game machine, my upstairs workstation, under my pool table, and in my safe. I'm also going to add them to the underside of the cabinets on a timer to turn on between 6pm-6am.

Parts:


LED Strip Light Connector Adapter: http://amzn.com/B00FXTBNFY

LEDwholesalers 16.4 Feet LED Light Strip

White: http://amzn.com/B002Q907EW

Red: http://amzn.com/B002Q8YRYY

LED PCB DC plug Connector: http://amzn.com/B006IWM1AG (You will need to re-query amazon for this)

110VAC to 12 VDC 2-Amp 24-watt LED Power Adapter Transformer: http://amzn.com/B007ME2HMQ

Inline dimmer: http://amzn.com/B004T9ITQ0

I don't have a pic of the pool table with the lights, but here's the upstairs computer. I used about 4' on that, way overkill. It's bright enough to light up the room. I had to get the dimmer to cut that down a bit. I could use less LEDs but I don't feel like taking the monitors down to re-do it.

I'm assuming you're in the US? If you really want faster water you could always get a 220v kettle like this or this. Only problem is you'd need a pretty chunky transformer to power it.

Would it be up to code to use this? Have romex go in one side directly.

https://www.amazon.com/LEORX-LED-Transformer-Power-Supply/dp/B017R17YQC/ref=pd_sim_86_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B017R17YQC&pd_rd_r=F8GFJM8GJRHD6B68G413&pd_rd_w=7j4Qp&pd_rd_wg=OLP3P&psc=1&refRID=F8GFJM8GJRHD6B68G413

Sure. You will need to purchase a power supply (this one is 12 volt) to drive this controller. So figure out if your strips are either 12 or 24 volt. If they happen to be 24 volt, this controller has a built in power supply for 24 volt LED strips only. Both can be added to the Philips Hue Bridge.

As for connections, I used these for RGB strips and these for power connections.

​

​

I'm assuming you're from the States. I'm based in the UK, had a look on the American amazon and found this. It should work.

LEDwholesalers 12 Volt DC Waterpoof LED Power Suppply Driver Transformer with 3-Prong Plug, 30W, 3207 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0034GUEY4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_euNqzb3MM791H

I've found this 120v AC to 12v DC converter on amazon, would something like this allow me to use the pin I've already installed into the machine?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0034GUEY4/ref=nav_timeline_asin?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/LPV-35-12-Supply-Driver-90-264-Output/dp/B00IO1W38E/ref=sr_1_27?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1540484513&sr=1-27&keywords=Mean+Well+12V

https://www.amazon.com/C2G-27397-Internal-Extension-Connector/dp/B0002J26JM/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1540484582&sr=1-6&keywords=molex+cable

https://www.amazon.com/Wago-222-412-LEVERNUT-TRM-BLK/dp/B01DPLPX2A/ref=sr_1_41?ie=UTF8&qid=1540484752&sr=8-41&keywords=wago+2

https://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-Waterpoof-Suppply-Transformer-3207/dp/B0034GUEY4

I was thinking more like this, unless you want to be able to switch to 5v to test FCs etc, you probably don't need a variable supply. Quads will generally run very happily on 12v (about 3S)

Thanks! They were the first ones we put in - the BoM was super cheap too:

2 - LED rolls @ $11.64 (really used 1 1/4 of em)

1 - transformer @ $15.50

1 - connectors for the corners @ $4.99

Total cost was about $50.

The second set (under the sink and rangetop) is in parallel to the first because while the transformer could handle 1 1/2 strands, a continuous run may only be one strand

You know, I've considering trying to get 2.8-ish kW out of a TT-30 by using a step-up transformer in line, to turn it from 120x30 to a 240x15. Something like this should work:
https://smile.amazon.com/LiteFuze-LT-5000-Voltage-Converter-Transformer/dp/B008GQTXS0

The idea being, split the 120v into two-phase 240v and cutting the current in half. You trick the Bolt into pulling about twice as much power from the outlet.

Sorry for formatting on mobile.

I ran about 150’ of these lights in my basement.. used them as cove lighting and under bar/shelf lighting. I found you can connect 2 of these reels of lights without noticeable dimming down the strip of lights. Online you can find pretty much any supply as long as it outputs at the correct voltage (get that info from your LED controller)

BINZET DC12V 2.5A 30 Watt LED... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JRX360W?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I used this to power my main controller I think it’s actually for a fountain..I have no issues with brightness. Your controller isn’t going to let enough current run through the light strip to ever allow more than 2 reels of lights to be powered, even if you managed to find a higher amp power supply.. this is driven by losses over the line and LED power consumption, at 12v losses and consumption is high.. if you had lights that ran off 48v you get significantly longer runs of lights before dimming on the far end was noticeable. I digress.

If you have a lot your running together get yourself an amplifier. Jumper wires off the LED light strip go to the input, 12/24v is input into the amplifier, and an RGB output wires can then be ran back to the LED strip.

LED RGB Amplifier Controller... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071F4D5SD?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Next you’ll need an additional power supply to power
your amplifiers. I used a computer power supply.

SUPERNIGHT 12V 30A Switching... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LATMSGS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Jumper cables and power from power supply to amplifiers was run with 18 gauge wire.

Alternatively you can buy an additional local power supply to every amplifier if it’s easier than one central. I used one central so I could plug in my controller and power supply into one outlet on the wall, I then used typical NM 600v cable to control the outlet with a switch on the wall. Gives the feel of a professional light install for a fraction of the price.

Yeah, I'm using 12v2a, so I'll upgrade my power supply.

Would this be overkill?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GEA8PQA/ref=sspa_dk_detail_4?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B01GEA8PQA

Forgot to add, would something like this work pretty good?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IU8QBCO?psc=1

Thanks :)

You could write sequences easily enough, and in fact it would be relatively trivial to fire them off spontaneously with simple pushbuttons as input to your microcontroller. When I put that costume together, I wore a little custom switchboard like a watch that had the arduino installed on it along with a series of pushbuttons and rocker switches to turn things on and off.


Syncing to music directly might be tough - certainly doable, but it may just be easier to have buttons which perform preprogrammed actions. There are a lot of ways things could go awry when trying to line up audio with circuits. For professional shows it's better to have an engineer or two (on further viewing, it looks like they had 3 guys manning this in the show) on the sidelines controlling all that stuff, but if it's just you a simpler and more adaptable route might be to program 8 or so actions, wire buttons from the arduino to your fingertips to fire them off, and rely on your own timing and coordination to get things really moving. Just a suggestion to avoid overcomplicating things, and using such a technique also allows you to be a bit more adaptable (say, for example, if you want to use the surrounding music like at a club as opposed to needing your own).


Also /u/Tinkrr2 is right about the voltage requirements varying by brand - make sure you look into that. Finally, if you're looking to make this into a semi-permanent hobby then it helps to have an adjustable power supply handy. A beefy battery, a sizable power supply, a few barrel jacks, some Dupont connectors, and most importantly an adjustable buck converter will take you very far. I wouldn't worry too much about any of this now, but if you decide you like tinkering with electronics (especially LEDs, which have moderate power requirements) that would be a terrific start.

Awesome man. I cannot tell you how cool I find all this. Science!

Here is what I have purchased so far.

12v 6a 72w power supply

ZVS Heater and Coil Combo

Switch. Can hold up to 20amps not sure that mattters whatever, room for extra isn't bad.

[Glass Tube]I DELETED THIS AS WHAT I HAD HERE IS TOO BIG! DO NOT BUY THE GUITAR SLIDE I HAD LISTED! NEW TUBE. I ordered this from China on a Thursday, let's see how long it takes to get here.

So, I would just be missing the mosfet and momentary switches that you have. Do you find them necessary? I might just buy the mosfet and momentary for peace of mind, but I did see a couple build that avoided the mosfet for simplicity's sake. This build seems to have avoided one.

Any further advice (wire gauge, soldering tips, etc)? I am currently looking for a good box to put it all in. Thanks again for the reply.

EDIT - MOSFET

Momentary Buttons

Mounting things for the momentary buttons

IF ANYONE IS READING THIS IN THE FUTURE, CONSIDER USING A 120W POWER SUPPLY. I DO NOT REALLY UNDERSTAND BUT SUPPOSEDLY IT MATTERS.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GEA8PQA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Buy this.

That is just a simple 12VDC power supply, with 2 amp capacity.

Something like this should be easy to connect.

The motor, no. You can use the saw as-is with a step-up transformer sized for the load+10% (min 3.2kw). Like this one.

Unfortunately your wiring probably wouldn't support it. Most 120v household outlets are 20A. You would need a 30A circuit (at 120v).

Shame, a Unisaw is a nice machine.

Edit: if it were mine. Depending on how long I plan to be there but if I had split phase in the house and the garage wasn't far, I'd run a 230v line to the garage. A bit of work, not much cost and probably totally illegal where you live without permits and electricians.