Best magnetic sweepers according to redditors
We found 152 Reddit comments discussing the best magnetic sweepers. We ranked the 63 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 152 Reddit comments discussing the best magnetic sweepers. We ranked the 63 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Flexible Claw Grasper Some are magnetic.
Looks like a perfect candidate for this.
https://www.amazon.com/Strong-Tools-MSA46-HD-4-375-Inch-3-75-Inch/dp/B000VH8040/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503423344&sr=8-1&keywords=strong+hand+magnet
You can thank me later.
I was diagnosed with cancer at 17 and had to go through all the typical horrible cancer things like biopsies and chemotherapy, no radiation treatment. It was testicular cancer that spread to my lymph nodes (10cm tumor in my abdomon) and lungs, caught pretty late. (I'm fine now, thanks for asking) I've had ball pain worse than a Jackie Chan kick, my insides pulled out and put back, and completely incompasitating kidney pain dozens of times. Nothing was as bad as what I will describe in the next paragraph.
I was in a routine cystoscopy and urinary stent change. These things by themselves are terrible. They take a camera and a tube and slide it up your urethra all the way to the kidney, take out the old piece of plastic holding open your uretor, watch what happens for a bit, then put in a new one. (I've woken up during a few of these operations, it hurts and is extremely uncomfortable, plus for the next week I have to deal with the feeling of the inside of my penis being sandpapered.) The most painful experience was when an operation went bad. The replacement stent was pushed too high and couldn't be brought back down, so I needed to spend the night and hopefully it would drop down some and be corrected in the morning. When I woke up it was like the worst kidney pain of a kidney stone accompanied by the stabbing pain of being stabbed deep in the kidney by a plastic tube. There was a nice big catheter (NSFW medical) left in to drain urine and a metal wire that was attached to the stent that ran along side it. You know those flexible long tools for picking up up screws at the bottom of a hole, or the top string on a bass guitar, but bigger. It was a metal wire wrapped by another wire. The tiniest movement would shock every nerve in my groin. It was like a ridged steakknife down my urethra.
I had few pain meds because I had just been under general and was due to be put under again in the morning. I spent around 11 hours like that. I was in heavy constant pain and was pinned to the bed by these things that went deep into me.
I bought one of these a few months ago while I was redoing my windows and siding to prevent this issue. There are plenty out there similar to this one, some that are like the old reel mowers but with magnets. Anything with a strong magnet you can sweep over the surface will help.
You need one of these -
https://www.amazon.com/Flex-Cable-4-Finger-Retriever-Pro-Tools/dp/B006ZEOXJY/
Something like this makes it easy
http://smile.amazon.com/Neiko-Magnetic-Sweeper-Concrete-Carpet/dp/B000HGN6P8/ref=pd_cp_hi_3
You'll never get every one though. If you burn semi regularly, pick one spot and don't drive on it.
I gotchu fam
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006ZEOXJY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1465364461&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=flexible+grabber&dpPl=1&dpID=41YUw%2BMsc3L&ref=plSrch
Nah, those suck. You've gotta get yourself a Strong Hand Tools Adjust-O Magnet. They're pricey, but they're leagues better than the plain red ones. Being able to "turn off" the magnet makes it way easier to line up the part and you can easily clean off the metal shavings. I've had one for over a year now and I use it almost everyday. I highly recommend them.
That's a spring hook. Used for typewriter repair or anything with little springs.
A shop vac to suck them out?
Or maybe a parts grabber like this?
Have you tried one of these? http://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Claw-Pick-Automotive-Mechanic/dp/B000RB7AGY
im guessing he took off the broken handle, and attached something like this
Get one of THESE and go fishing?
That's an awesome idea. How wide is the trail? Get some of these and go for a long walk/ride.
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-53418A-36-Inch-Magnetic-Capacity/dp/B000HGN6P8
http://smile.amazon.com/Flex-Cable-4-Finger-Retriever-Pro-Tools/dp/B006ZEOXJY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1462407907&sr=8-2&keywords=part+retriever
Here's something to add to your TOTT pack:
http://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Claw-Pick-Automotive-Mechanic/dp/B000RB7AGY
General Tools 70396 Lighted Steel Claw Mechanical Pick-Up Tool, 24-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00275F5I8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YupCCbN1J3NHZ you might have to pad it put it will do
How about two of these?
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-53418A-Magnetic-Pick-Up-Sweeper/dp/B000HGN6P8/
I don't think you'll beat the price with a DIY electromagnet...
Surely, this will help this type of situation.
I use this. Works great.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D7JZX3J/
They sell These . If your phone isn't smooth you could try this out. Also, they have ones with flashlights at the end. Super glue is brittle, so some quick blunt force might dislodge it if you didn't use a lot of glue. Maybe you can try it next time you go.
I struggle with the same thing. I bought this. I hang the cart unside down and use a hair dryer and gravity to help it come "out", if the cart opens I tr and get the oil closest to the opening and the use my dab tool to get it out and I apply it to my rolling paper (tip- put it in the middle of the paper). I do this with carts I fill with medical Distillate.
In my standard kit my tools would be:
Beyond just tools to find or retrieve a cache I have:
On my person:
Finally, in my big bag that stays in the trunk most times:
My wife likes to mock me with this.
Magnetic roller makes short work, and you can still scrap the steel.
https://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Duty-Magnetic-Roller-Sweeper-Release/dp/B0096DNRBQ
I would try the shop vac idea, if that fails. Possibly use something like a long reach grabber to fish them out.
/u/BrandonSmash posted exactly 3 minutes afterwards.
>https://www.amazon.com/Strong-Tools-MSA46-HD-4-375-Inch-3-75-Inch/dp/B000VH8040/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503423344&sr=8-1&keywords=strong+hand+magnet
>You can thank me later.
Steel will beat up your barrel and extractor more than brass. As many have mentioned, the cost differential more than make up for the extra wear and tear. The only real issue with steel anything IMO is do you plan to shoot at places where it's prohibited? If so, buying cases of steel isn't the best idea. Most ranges that magnet test will nope you out of there even if it's only the case that reacts.
75% of my .223 and .308 target ammo is steel, easily. Also gives be a great excuse to pick up EASY work hours on the range. I bought a 20.00 rolling bar magnet and collect steel case for 20 min each trip.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000COYMDK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If you're into this, you'd love something like this: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000HGN6P8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MSDzDbS57DGND
Get a magnet on a stick. https://www.amazon.com/Master-Magnetics-07228-Telescoping-Retrieving/dp/B0000DINDG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1469575397&sr=8-4&keywords=telescoping+magnetic+pick-up+tool cheap and effective like this one is all you need. Doesn't need to be super powerful. It makes getting the greasy ball bearings out less of a risky proposition, and as a bonus, if there are any little flecks of metal in there while you clean, it does a great job of sucking those up too.
They sure do. I had one growing up that was about the size of a quarter when it was open and thinner thank a pen. Had a button at the butt of it that would open and close the claw
edit-Check it
https://www.amazon.com/Flex-Cable-4-Finger-Retriever-Pro-Tools/dp/B006ZEOXJY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1484438083&sr=8-3&keywords=drain+claw
Get a flex retriever claw. Mechanics use them to retrieve screws, parts and tools that they drop in tight places while working on machinery. Most any auto parts store should carry them and they are inexpensive. Here's one on Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/X-Long-Flex-Cable-Pick-Up-4-Finger-Retriever/dp/B006ZEOXJY
I used to use a pry bar on them... but then i got myself a one of these
and it was like night and day.
Then you just need a hammer and some vicegrips to pull the nails out.
I've also found that if you can store your pallets out of the weather so they dry out, it all pulls apart a lot easier...
Estwing chipping hammer: https://www.amazon.com/Estwing-BLUE-Welding-Chipping-Hammer/dp/B00047EZSC/ref=sr_1_27?ie=UTF8&qid=1526009450&sr=8-27&keywords=welding+tools
Stronghand magnet: https://www.amazon.com/Strong-Tools-MSA46-HD-4-375-Inch-3-75-Inch/dp/B000VH8040/ref=sr_1_55?ie=UTF8&qid=1526009494&sr=8-55&keywords=welding+tools
Invest in one of these babies: https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Claw-Automotive-Mechanic-Generic/dp/B000RB7AGY
Also great for pulling yucky hair clumps out of the tub drain.
this should do it with some patience
Attach one of these so it runs in front of your bike ?
https://www.amazon.com/Stalwart-75-HT5000-Telescoping-Magnetic-Pick/dp/B01BGI8OFW
A set of Non-Abrasive Nylon tools like these: https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Professional-Non-Abrasive-Anti-Static-Screwdrivers/dp/B013W4O7QS
Spring hooks : https://www.amazon.com/Jonard-M-130-SX5-Lifter-Knurled/dp/B006C46PKC/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1481131240&sr=1-1&keywords=spring+hook
Shouldn't cause a problem, but you can get them out with some help from a friend. The dash cover that has the venting on it probably comes off. Then use a flex line pick up tool and have a friend look into the cavity through the outside of the windshield to direct your movement with the pickup tool until you get a hold of them and fish them out.
I dropped the top of a light sensor down there when I installed a HUD in my grand prix, and it took a little patience and about 20 minutes to get it out using the above method.
Edit: use this.
Yes that could work as long as you don't have any fireblocks in the way. You can get some good strong magnets for a decent price on Amazon. I got this and this one for when I was fishing my own wires.
Otherwise, making an attic access is pretty easy if you have a place to do it without it being an eyesore. I'm currently finishing up my own access I cut into the ceiling of my garage for camera wires. Lots of youtube videos with ideas and instructions.
Magnets!
Master Magnetics 07229 Bendable Magnetic Pick-Up Tool and Retrieving Magnet, 19" Length, 2 lb. Hold, Multicolor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000H5QRV4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Tdg2DbYDX4P65
You need one of these http://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Claw-Pick-Automotive-Mechanic/dp/B000RB7AGY
Roofers have a tool that would make short work of your job:
https://www.amazon.com/Roughneck-64640-Demolition-Lifting-Bar/dp/B003CT4D1S/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
maybe it is available for rental in your area?
https://www.amazon.com/Housolution-Magnetic-Four-claw-Bendable-Flexible/dp/B07GX8NLTR/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=thin+grabber&qid=1562072169&s=gateway&sr=8-1
https://www.amazon.com/Master-Magnetics-07228-Telescoping-Retrieving/dp/B0000DINDG/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_469_bs_lp_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=Q72RGCQ0C8CCTHQ6PHT9
I use one of these
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Roughneck-64640-Demolition-Lifting-Bar/dp/B003CT4D1S
to quickly dismantle pallets. It is awesome and far easier than the other method I was using.
Not sure about wet/dry though. I would be slightly in favour of dry in my experience as the timber isn't swollen around the nails, but this tool doesn't seem to care!
I use a magnet on an extendible rod (think old school car aerial) that has a built in light for metal objects. For small non metal objects I use a flexible grabber tool. For large objects, I wonder how the hell they got in there in the first place.
I bought a set similar to these: http://www.amazon.com/Ullman-PH-4-4-Piece-Carbon-Polished/dp/B008Z67WV6/
I've only used the straight one for this task.
What I would do is partially feed an old cable into the housing, making sure it's not fed so far in that it's at the cutting point. As soon as you make the cut, grab the end of the cable and try to feed it through farther so it comes out at the new cut end.
crapless design
What sort of vent are you talking about? The kind that's often inside one of the burners? Or something else...
Edit: You can get these at most hardware stores for a couple dollars: https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Claw-Automotive-Mechanic-Generic/dp/B000RB7AGY/
And looking at them, they're completely unmarked. I suspect they're these:
https://www.amazon.com/Ullman-PH-Hook-Pick-Set/dp/B008Z67WV6
but I've had them forever. I wonder if empire resell them.
Get this also.
https://www.amazon.com/Screwdriver-SET-Different-Professional-Electronics/dp/B07552XJJX/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1541523940&sr=8-5&keywords=small+screwdriver&dpID=41V7J9r%252BgpL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
https://www.amazon.com/Master-Magnetics-Telescoping-Retrieving-07228/dp/B0000DINDG/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1541523981&sr=8-6&keywords=magnetic+tweezers&dpID=31mdH6kkvPL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
time to start packin one of these
Like this
http://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Claw-Pick-Automotive-Mechanic/dp/B000RB7AGY
There's a few products you can try.
First, I'd try a grabber. I have one so I can retreive things I drop in the engine bay, or behind the couch, etc. Assuming the clog isn't too deep, this may work. Then again, you may have trouble pulling a clog back up since you have limited space.
They also make narrow snakes. Again, depending on how big of a clog, you may have trouble actually pulling it back out of the drain, but maybe this can help break it up.
I'd use chemicals as a last resort. Since yours is draining slowly, it may work, but if you ever get a complete clog, I'd steer clear. If the chemical doesn't work, then you have a tub full of a caustic mix.
It is the newest kindle, yes. It's also $220, as opposed to $80. But if there were a more elegant solution to push a physical button from a few feet away, I'd be open to it. I've imagined some sort of modification of a telescopic claw tool.
I broke almost all my shock bolts when I was replacing mine.
What you have to do is take an air hammer with a pointed tip in it (or just a BFH and a punch) and hammer out the old weld nuts. Then you have to fish some new bolts into the holes with either a magnetic pick-up tool or one of these claw grabber things. After that you should be able to get a wrench on the top of the bolts but it can be tricky.
Here's a writeup of a similar method.
Would something like this do the trick?
https://www.amazon.com/X-Long-Flex-Cable-Pick-Up-4-Finger-Retriever/dp/B0793JWN3H/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1526442636&sr=1-6&keywords=grabber
> No Way! I also have a 2011 Honda CRZ EX. I'm installing a Kenwood DDX0703S next week so maybe you can help me avoid some headaches with the install.
Happy to help however I can. crzforum.com is also an AMAZING resource; about the best on the internet for CRZ info.
> The Metra 70-1730 Wire Harness I bought seems to have a subwoffer RCA but the instructions say not to use it even though my CRZ has a factory sub. Do I really not need to hook up the sub RCA?
Correct. The CRZ's sub is wired into the rear channel. The front channel is two speakers and two tweeters, the rear is two speakers and the sub.
> I bought a Maestro ADS-MSW for my steering wheel controls. What does the RR give you over the ADS-MSW? Just gauge information?
Just gauges AFAIK.
> The Maestro instructions say I need to splice into a green wire connected to the bluetooth HFL module behind my glovebox in order to use my steering wheel call and end call buttons. Did you do that? If so how difficult was it?
Yes. Very easy. You need to remove the panel under the glove box. It has clips at the top and tabs sit in slots at the back. Disconnect the floor light and put it aside. The HFL is between the passenger footwell and the outer shell of the car, toward the glove box. Disconnect the harness and tap the green wire. I'm using these for all the taps I did in the car. They are VERY easy, solderless and making great connections. Can't recommend them enough.
Also, make sure you have a dumb little grabber tool, like this. I bought mine at Home Depot for $2 while getting butt connectors and it made routing the wire for the HFL a breeze.
>Where did you place the Kenwood microphone in your CRZ?
If you look at the picture, you can see the Kenwood mic below my radio. The factory mic cannot be reused without great effort, and if you do wire it up it has no noise cancelling and sounds like shit. So don't.
You'll also notice a USB plug dangling down at the factory location. The factory USB can't be reused, and I didn't want to have the Kenwood USB line that is hard wired to the unit fished through anything, so here's what I did: I pulled the factory USB cable and its little grommet into the dash and zip tied it off so it doesn't bang around. Then, I ran a 3' Monoprice USB male/female extender cable through the hole the factory USB goes through and zip tied it secure inside the dash. This way, if it ever wears out I replace a $2 cable and not my $500 radio. This also has the benefit of making installation/removal of the radio really easy, which is already coming in handy as I prep to install a backup camera.
>How did you do the wiring? I've never soldered anything before and am thinking about buying some Posi-Twists and Posi-Taps to do all of this.
Positwists and taps are AWESOME, but they're also expensive. I'd recommend you pick up some 20 awg butt connectors or crimp caps (whichever) and a wire stripper/crimper tool just because they're cheap.
Here's what I did: I wired up my radio harness and anything else that was fairly mobile with butt connectors at my desk, making sure to tape off any wires I wasn't using so they were out of my way. Then, I saved my Posi connectors for the connections that HAVE to be made in the car (OBD2, the HFL cable, the ground wires)
>About the DDX9702S: How responsive is the touchscreen? I'm weary about the resistive screen but couldn't justify the $200+ to upgrade to the DDX9903S with capacitive screen.
It's great. It's obviously not a cap touch screen, but it's also not a Palm Pilot. It's responsive enough, precise enough, and all around "good enough" that I wouldn't spend the extra $200 either.
One more tip: When you're wiring this up, wire the parking brake sensor wire into your grounds. Do that and you can watch video while driving.
How about claw retriever? Something my dad always had in his toolbox being a mechanic... something like this
https://www.amazon.com/X-Long-Flex-Cable-Pick-Up-4-Finger-Retriever/dp/B0793JWN3H
Not sure if link are allowed but check the local tool or auto part store for something like this.
X-Long 36" Flex-Cable Pick-Up Tool 4-Finger Claw End Retriever Snake https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006ZEOXJY/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_YodRCb69Z60W9
Or loop an open slip knot onto a piece of wood and guide into the phone? Then pull tight and bring phone with it.
I use one of these.
A bit late now, but I have one of these and it’s really useful if you drop something
How far in is it? Do you have one of those snake claws? I am not sure of the exact name, but you press on the end and a little claw comes out the other end, it's used for retrieving nuts and bolts in an engine. If it's bikini padding it should come out easily with this type of device.
http://www.amazon.com/X-Long-Flex-Cable-Pick-Up-4-Finger-Retriever/dp/B006ZEOXJY
Yes - that Ebay link is probably the same thing. Here's exactly what I bought.
The base rods are steel, so these magnetic arms also work well as helping hands.
The blue uprights of the PCB holder are plastic, and one side is spring loaded. It allows for several different mounting positions. It also allows you to spin the board back-and-forth, which is good for this kind of work. Note that it barely fits the length of the Planck, and if I were doing anything longer I would need to hold it sideways instead, which would mean the flipping wouldn't work.
It's not heavy duty like something from PanaVise, but for this kind of thing and smaller boards it works fine.
https://www.amazon.com/Telescoping-Magnetic-Capacity-Stalwart-Magnet/dp/B01BGI8OFW/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?adgrpid=57690102644&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_d2TxLWz4wIVB7zACh1DwwqtEAAYASAAEgISl_D_BwE&hvadid=274839809238&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9016796&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=5376055480821998472&hvtargid=kwd-320515697714&hydadcr=12189_9467462&keywords=magnet+for+nails&qid=1563073255&s=gateway&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&sr=8-4
how far out of reach?
what is this a picture of?
why do you need to get the quarter?
does you local motor-head mechanic friend have one of these?
Grabber Tool Magnetic Four-Claw Picker
A mini magnet stick can be awesome for picking up little screws that fall into cracks and cost around 5 dollars.
https://www.amazon.com/Master-Magnetics-07228-Telescoping-Retrieving/dp/B0000DINDG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1483822614&sr=8-4&keywords=magnet+stick
Buy a tool off amazon, long flexible yet sturdy pole, has a flashlight on the end with a claw.
$7 : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00275F5I8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Think Arnold Schwarzenneger in Total Recall
I would guess the odds of you messing it up would be low. I have completely taken apart my ppq, my hk p30, my glock, my m&p, an SKS, and a mosin nagant without any formal training or special tools. All of the guns were successfully put back together and work perfectly now (although I no longer have the SKS or mosin). Guns are pretty simple mechanically, it's not like I'm some mechanical wizard. If you decide to go the route I suggested, you can PM me and I'll take some high resolution photos of the interior finished product so that you know what to look for. My big issue was that I couldn't figure out what direction one of the pieces was supposed to go. Luckily, my parents own a sig so I grabbed theirs and used that as a basis for me doing mine. If I send you a few pictures, you should be able to figure it out. There are some YouTube videos that are also pretty helpful.
Edit: if you are going to install the SRT, you might wanna get this. You'll understand why once you get started. There is one piece that you have to put in that is fucking impossible to get in place without a magnet thing. I did it without one and... holy shit was it a pain to get the sear into place because it kept slipping out of place and my fingers are big so I couldn't really hold it in place. On YouTube, a lot of people had this tool and made it look so easy. Retrospectively, I REALLY wish I had this before I got started. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0000DINDG/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1479832614&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=magnet+stick&dpPl=1&dpID=31y82P6%2BWOL&ref=plSrch That was the only part of the install that was frustrating. I could have done it in 3 to 5 minutes if it wasnt for that sear... That took me half an hour. If you have that magnet. You'd be able to do it in a manner of minutes. If you get one, don't get one of those with a really wide magnet. Get one like in the link that is small so it can fit into relatively tight spaces. You'll thank me later.
I know you weren't posting asking for repair advice, but I'll offer some anyway. Is the plastic piece small enough to come through the bulb hole? If so then maybe you can grab it with a grabber and pull it out. I mention it because I've used one of those plus a paper towel to clean the inside of headlights before.
That's happened to me before. I used a tool like this (sanitized of course) http://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Claw-Automotive-Mechanic-Generic/dp/B000RB7AGY
Could try something like this.
Highlandhawker's Original Quick Release Keychain
I originally wanted to buy Kappa Quick Release Keychain but it was little bit more pricier but I'm liking highlandhawker's a lot for now!
I would suggest buying one of these if you think you can retrieve the clip with it. You can find these at any automotive parts store or very cheap here on Amazon.
any chance you could find a narrow enough grabber tool and try that?
Telescopic magnetic pickup tool missing the telescope handle. the plastic shroud stops ou from picking up metal filings and other magnetic dusty crap. like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rolson-Tools-60379-Magnetic-Pick/dp/B002UO8QBO
General Tools 70396 Lighted Steel Claw Mechanical Pick-Up Tool, 24-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00275F5I8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dCsVBbG2HY887
> http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-7615-50-lb-Magnetic-Pick-Up/dp/B000NPR40G
Better, magnetic sweeper on wheels:
http://www.amazon.com/Magnetic-Roller-Sweeper-Magnet-Release/dp/B0096DNRBQ?tag=viglink126840-20
The grabber on that is way too big. You'd just knock all the other minis over. But someone posted this thing that looks like it would work.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00275F5I8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YupCCbN1J3NHZ?th=1
This is the tool you needed (or maybe a shorter version).
Tool
Something like this?
It looks like it may just be a small, handheld magnetic sweeper
They only work as good as the screwdriver, if the screwdriver is shiet and made out of non ferrous metal(like if theres other non magnetic metals mixed in) it wont be as effective, but I have a similair set to the one OP posted and it works fine.
Now for droppin crap inbetween weird spots, I use a magnetic bendy stick. These lil foos are great for getting screws that fall inbetween the crevices. I will suggest you look at them in person at an auto parts/hardware store because theres different magnetic heads, some might be too thicc to fit into small computer spots (more suited for automobile sockets/tools that fall in car crevices)
If you are very worried about that, you can get a large, strong magnet like this one for under $9 on amazon and give it a quick stir through the coffee. The roaster we use actually has a magnetic bar where the coffee pours out of the cooling area, so it catches anything like that for us. We rarely find metal, though.
http://www.amazon.com/Master-Magnetics-07228-Magnet-Pointer/dp/B0000DINDG
Easiest, most time-effective method?
Take a large magnet (something like this or this) and wipe it over the hard drives repeatedly.
Otherwise you're going to be running DBAN for a looooong time.
is there any metal in the object? https://www.amazon.com/Master-Magnetics-07228-Telescoping-Retrieving/dp/B0000DINDG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1475088960&sr=8-1&keywords=pen+magnet
Here... This would work. https://www.amazon.ca/Flexible-Claw-Pick-Automotive-Mechanic/dp/B000RB7AGY
Dollar stores have them.
While that seems like too small of a space, I think you could actually work with that. You could use a claw pick-up tool to raise and position the end, then use a long flathead screwdriver or metal rod to lever the end into place.
Food for thought, anyway. Best of luck!
I believe I'd spend a little time fishing around with one of these before doing anything else.
https://www.amazon.com/X-Long-Flex-Cable-Pick-Up-4-Finger-Retriever/dp/B006ZEOXJY
Not really the place, but still :)
Sounds like all you need is a telescopic grabber or something similar. You can probably find those at the hardware store. If you want something powerful, even though it's small, make sure it's a neodymium (rare earth) magnet.
It's a tool to pick up things that have fallen into "inconvenient places". They're typically flexible though.
https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Claw-Automotive-Mechanic-Generic/dp/B000RB7AGY
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006ZEOXJY/ref=mp_s_a_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1511336561&sr=8-15&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=grabber&dpPl=1&dpID=41x3NwrabiL&ref=plSrch