Best measuring & layout products according to redditors

We found 1,295 Reddit comments discussing the best measuring & layout products. We ranked the 560 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Saw gauges
Construction marking tools
Measuring wheels
Scanners & testers
Pipe locators
Plumb bobs
Laser levels
Linear measurement products

Top Reddit comments about Measuring & Layout:

u/dh4645 · 113 pointsr/Wellthatsucks
u/Gahd · 99 pointsr/videos

>I always make sure they don't mention my company name

It's the same brand name, Hagoromo. So they only mentioned it a few dozen times.

Great Big is an advertising firm by nature.

"We know the perfect mix of data and emotional resonance to tell stories that embody your brand, and we have the global platform to reach them."

u/ZeroAccess · 51 pointsr/oddlysatisfying

Countour Gage - $18.

Or what looks like this exact one, $9.

u/socraticd · 49 pointsr/Tools

No use posting something and saying it's super useful, without a link. :)

u/drmcgills · 48 pointsr/HomeImprovement

I even got sick of my Zircon studfinder's flakiness so I sprung for a $8 magnetic one and I dig it. It does take a lil longer because you need to hit on a screw/metal, but I still grab it before my electric one.

EDIT: This is the one on Amazon, which is not where I purchased it (local HD for me), but same product and price.

CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder

u/tragedyminuscomedy · 44 pointsr/CrappyDesign
u/Purple_Pork_Pickle · 41 pointsr/Documentaries
u/Faloopa · 36 pointsr/Wellthatsucks

This is a tool you need! I switched from a traditional wall-irregularity finder to one of these and it leveled up my handyman skill.

u/BornOnFeb2nd · 29 pointsr/keto
  1. The first rule of Keto, is we do NOT talk about Keto to folks "outside"

  2. The second rule of Keto, is WE DO NOT TALK ABOUT KETO TO FOLKS "OUTSIDE"! You will get a LOT of fear-mongering if you do. At first, only allude to it.. like "cutting out sugar", "watching what I eat", etc... when you have indisputable proof that it IS working, then you can actually mention "No/Low-Carb".

  3. Get some flair going! (over by the subscribe button, the 'normal' format is Gender/Age/Height Starting Weight, Current Weight, Goal, but do what you like with it)

  4. If you're putting it in your steak hole, you'd better be weighing it (if it's not pre-packaged), and logging it. Quite a few of us are on MFP. This can help avoid "surprises" later, and help keep you accountable, even if only to yourself. Once you get the hang of it, you can let up, but if you stall out, that'll be the first thing people will ask: "Are you logging what you eat?"

  5. Treat foods with <1g carbs/serving as 1g, save yourself the headache.

  6. If you don't know if it has carbs in it, assume it has carbs in it, and probably quite a bit more than you expect.

  7. MEASURE EVERYTHING! Take before pictures, take during pictures, use a scale, but don't trust the bastard. Invest in a measuring tape If you don't have one already. There WILL be weeks where the scale doesn't budge, but you might simply be replacing fat with muscle.

  8. You're about to shed a bunch of weight, it'll be water. If this is surprising to you, read the FAQ!, the FAQ is good!

  9. Bonus points if you can arrange for "pre" bloodwork, so you can get some "post" bloodwork to help with point #2

    oh, and welcome! :D
u/e30eric · 28 pointsr/HomeImprovement

I've gone through a few stud finders and settled on the fact that stud finders just don't work very well.

Then I bought this and the same magnetic stud finder as backup. It changed my mind, it's damn near 100% consistent.

u/mikeperr · 20 pointsr/HomeImprovement

CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder

It's a magnet. Foolproof. Which I need because I've never had much luck with the electronic ones.

u/reverendfrag4 · 19 pointsr/woodworking

I guess you could use a contour copier in segments. You'd need to establish some kind of baseline to measure off of, but that's how amateur hour right here would do it.

u/CivilDiscussions · 19 pointsr/DIY

That isn't true at all. I can get away with a simple magnet and just use it to find a sheetrock screw.

Look at this stud finder on amazon -
CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder

4.5 out of 5 stars with over 7,000 reviews and only costs $9.99. Thing doesn't even require batteries.

I would tell people the exact opposite of what you said. Don't waste $30-40 on a stud finder when a $9 one will work just as well.

u/soonerborn23 · 18 pointsr/HomeImprovement

depends on what diy goals you have in mind. What I find myself using 80+% of the time when I am doing home diy stuff is some combo of the following.....

u/jackrats · 16 pointsr/whatisthisthing

It's a contour gauge. For transferring a contour to a work piece.

Like this:

u/distantreplay · 14 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Most of the time I use the CH Hanson mentioned by u/mikeperr or a rare earth magnet on a string and swing it like a pendulum.
If you are really into it and insist on determining the precise edge of every piece of framing (and fire blocking) the one gizmo I know works most of the time is the Franklin 710. I just never had any consistent luck with those zircon things.

u/LeftistRedneck · 13 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Get a new stud detector. Even if you spend $50, I guarantee you it will pay off in saving your sanity by getting one like this or even better that senses any electrical or plumbing behind the wall:

u/Hadtarespond · 13 pointsr/whatisthisthing

It's for copying the profile of moulding.

Edit: This specific one is a General Tools 837 Contour Gauge Duplicator

u/fka_reddit · 11 pointsr/Fitness

They make a special tape measure that connects back to itself. I will try to find it and edit my comment

Edit: like this

u/InterloperKO · 11 pointsr/DIYfail

I prefer this

I've had 100 dollar stud finders that couldn't do what this magnet does. They aren't terribly accurate and require batteries.

u/gsfgf · 11 pointsr/Wellthatsucks

I have this one and it works pretty well.

u/World-Wide-Web · 10 pointsr/everymanshouldknow

you have to call for exchanges but then they give you free shipping. Not such a bad trade off.

As far as fit goes, I agree with /u/2takeke below, every piece of clothing has its own size chart listed. Figure out your measurements and you'll never have any more issues with "odd" or "inconsistent" sizes.

u/rompenstein · 9 pointsr/Tools

Here's what I would personally recommend for a decent minimum starter set, assuming you're just looking for general homeowner/handywork tools:

u/MoogleMan3 · 9 pointsr/battlestations

>It is god damn hard to mount and adjust 50" tvs like this on their own, let alone 100% perfect.

No it's not. A cheap level will get the job done.

> the autists

Awesome. Using autism as a derogatory term. Shall we belittle cancer victims next?

u/gaya2081 · 9 pointsr/keto

I have an awesome body tape measure and started measuring last week. Many of my measurements didn't change, but my hips seem to have lost an inch and my neck a quarter inch. I found my tape measure that I never remember to use This one from Amazon and put it where I wouldn't lose it in my bathroom. It's now part of my Friday measuring routine as I'm in a weight loss bet/challenge with some old high school people and Friday is weigh in day.

I thought at first I was at the wrong spot, but as much as a slide it up and down the measurement never got any larger than the new one unless it hit my butt.

I also stayed keto while sick this week and went out and bought some rebel ice cream - supposedly some of the local Krogers have started carrying it, but I also wanted some. Monkfruit sweetener so I went to the specialty store that has had it for a while. I never understood how people liked halo top, but I really love the mint chip rebel. The cookie dough is just gonna have to sit tight in my freezer. I'm still going to try to not have more than 1 serving a day, and not even every night, but I was shorter than I needed to be on calories the past two nights and had already hit my protein. Today however I am having rather calorie dense lunch and dinner, which I am totally looking forward to both dishes for both meals, but there isn't room today for the ice cream. I might bring the ice cream up to my sisters tomorrow for my nieces birthday party so I don't feel left out. I think she said her husband is doing low carb, so maybe he will want some.

u/jetermtnpkr · 9 pointsr/homestead

A wood stove is my only source of heat so I have quite a bit of experience in this area. Here's some pointers.

Wear all the safety gear. Chaps, glasses, gloves, hearing protection. I cant stress this enough. I have seen the damage a saw can do to a shin. Not pretty.

Use a grease pencil and a stick cut to length to mark your logs before cutting. If all the pieces are the same size they stack MUCH nicer than if they are random lengths.

Sharpen your chainsaw before you use it. This is the best sharpener I have ever used Every time. Also sharpen it if the tip hits the dirt (keep the tip out of the dirt). A log jack will do wonders for your chain. The chain will stay sharper (again keeping it out of the dirt) and it keeps the end of the log up in the air and will prevent the chain/bar from binding.

Get a moisture meter like [THIS]
( one and make sure you are only burning wood less than 20% moisture content. The meter is especially important if you run short and end up purchasing wood. Wet wood suuuuuucks. Lots of smoke/creosote and not much heat.

Seasoning really begins when the logs are cut and split. Whole logs laying on the ground dont season well.

Last, if you've never dropped a tree on your own, get help. It's more complicated than it looks and you can get hurt badly especially when cutting down trees that are dead or have rotten spots in them.

u/splitlip_jay · 9 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Get a moisture meter and check for moisture. It doesn’t look like recent water damage. Tough to tell without a moisture reading.

something like this

u/ThePieBot · 8 pointsr/3Dprinting

You could use a contour guage to copy the outline exactly onto paper and then scan that onto your computer. Then use that to create a vector and import that into your 3D software.

If you need any more precise details on how to do that just ask!

u/fun_director · 8 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Best one that I know of... I use it all the time, very accurate!

CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder

u/Inshpincter_Gadget · 8 pointsr/electricians

Use a powerful magnet to locate the nails in the wall. When you find a vertical row of nails that is where the stud is.

This one is awesome:

u/Artfulvandelay · 8 pointsr/Carpentry

Love my Franklin.

Two downsides: battery cover could be redesigned as it can come loos pretty easily, does not indicate live power.

u/veilig2000 · 8 pointsr/Tools

ProSensor 710 Franklin Sensors ProSensor 710 Precision Stud Finder Yellow

I have this, it’s awesome.

u/IcyKettle · 7 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Yeah, mostly likely just inaccurate readings.

I'm guessing you're using a standard stick-style stud finder.

Ditch it and get a Franklin. They're far more accurate (especially in older homes with thick plaster/gypsum) and intuitive to use.


u/ehmatthes · 7 pointsr/firewood

I bought this moisuter meter for $22 on Amazon.

I tried to buy firewood last week and told the guy, "We're just about out of wood for this season. We've got some more wood, but it's too wet to burn now. Do you have anything we can burn next week?" Guy says "Oh yeah, you can burn this stuff today if you want."

He showed up with the first truckload of a cord of wood. I said, "Excuse me for testing, but..." and I stuck the meter into one of the pieces of wood. 37%! That's wetter than what I cut last month! He seemed surprised and curious about what a moisture meter was. I think he had felled it last year and just assumed it was dry, but I don't think he had bucked it until quite recently. I don't need to sort out his intentions, I just brought him to my pile and showed him what seasoned firewood measures at.

If you're burning firewood, a $20 moisture meter is a lot cheaper than dealing with an unexpectedly wet load of wood.

u/myinnerchild8me · 7 pointsr/amiibo
u/KingOfId · 7 pointsr/woodworking

I've got one of these, it would work great for this.

u/ReverendSaintJay · 6 pointsr/DIY

I didn't see one of these in your pictures, but it would have made the circular saw cuts a whole lot easier.

The overhang on the back allows you to work with a circ-saw really well and get 90 degree cuts every time. For your table you could have offset it just enough to put your level between the speed square and the saw to use it as a longer guide.

u/wuhkay · 6 pointsr/oddlysatisfying

General Tools 837 Contour Gauge Duplicator, 6-Inch

u/jds10200 · 6 pointsr/oddlysatisfying

If you do any tiling, I also use the hell out of this:

General Tools 837 Metal Contour Gauge, Profile Gauge, Shape Duplicator, 6-Inch (152mm), Stainless Steel Pins, Precisely Copy Irregular Shapes For Perfect Fit and Easy Cutting

u/odd84 · 6 pointsr/pics

The top selling stud finder on Amazon is just a magnet in a plastic holder.

u/BoxDropCroissant · 6 pointsr/BabyBumps

the best stud finder ever

  • this is NOT a risky click 😉
u/YosemiteThrowaway123 · 6 pointsr/battlestations

Ya I love this guy and this stud finder. Made an amazing doggy door through my wall to the side of the house for a dog potty area, only took a couple days with the right tools.

u/Trisa133 · 6 pointsr/DIY
  1. Buy a good stud finder, it can detect other stuff as well, and check for clearance. This is the best and easiest to use stud finder I have ever used. Here

  2. If you have the proper clearance, then cut the wall with a drywall hand saw.

  3. Use some 2x4 or whatever cheap wood you have available to nail the support beam. You can easily shoot a nail at an angle to connect it between 2 studs. Do the bottom support and top as well.

  4. Install the cabinet and secure it with screws. You really only need 4 screws. 2 on top and 2 on the bottom. Or if you're flush the the studs on the side, you can screw it to the side. That's the easiest route.

  5. Now finish it with drywall joint compound to fill the gaps. Then caulk the gaps. Paint.

    Now if you don't have the clearance. Your only way to do it is is to build a frame around it so you hide the unfinished part. But personally, I'd just get another one that's in in-wall.
u/anotherisanother · 6 pointsr/woodworking

If you go hand tools, you can start with Rennaissance Woodworker’s minimum tool list. You can go with a lot of vintage tools to save money, but for fun I priced out all new tools of good quality. Many tools were recommended here. I've added a workbench and some reference books and videos too.


$169 Jack Plane Woodriver
$125 Hand Saw backless saw ~26″ in length
$28, $30, $35 - 1/4, 3/8, and 1″ chisels Ashley Isles MK2
$79 Back Saw Veritas Crosscut Carcasse
$12 Coping Saw Olson
$18 Marking Gauge Beech Marking Guage
$12 Square IRWIN Combination
$149 Some kind of sharpening set up (stones, sandpaper, whatever) Norton Waterstone Woodworker Package

$592 Subtotal


$13 Honing guide Eclipse style
$13 Marking knife Veritas
$22 Mallet Thor
$15 Book to learn from Essential Woodworker Book

$63 Subtotal


$27 Workbench plans Naked Woodworker
$123 Materials for Naked Woodworker, costs from Mike Siemsen
$35 Holdfasts Gramercy

$185 Subtotal



u/rprebel · 5 pointsr/lifehacks

Electronic stud finders are cheap, and they're not limited to detecting nails/screws. They tell you exactly where the stud begins and where it ends.

This is the exact model I have, and I've had it for almost 20 years. If you're about to move, get one. If you like home improvement projects, get one. If you like blinking toys, get one.

edit: holy shit this one is awesome, if a bit pricey.

u/custombuilder1987 · 5 pointsr/Construction

i only go with muff

u/coherent-rambling · 5 pointsr/BeginnerWoodWorking

Here's what I would buy if I were equipping my garage workshop on a budget from scratch today:

  • Table Saw - Unless you go for hand tools, this is the absolute core of your shop. Do not buy a new saw for less money than this under any circumstances, because it's false economy and you'll soon outgrow it. You may wish to buy a cheaper used model, in which case you should shop for a Craftsman 113 (aim for a belt drive rather than direct drive) on Craigslist. Spend up to $150 and plan to build or buy a better fence in the first year, which will bring you up to roughly the same capability as the new saws.
  • Drill and Driver - You need a drill anyway. Everyone does. This is nothing fancy, but it's a tolerable set that should last a hobbyist quite a while, and both batteries and extra tools are cheap. Grab a set of drill bits and a few impact-rated screwdriver bits, or a fancy combo set of both.
  • Miter Saw - Indispensable for cutting long pieces. You may eventually wish to get a big 12" sliding monstrosity to make wider pieces easier to work with, but you can also do that with a table saw. I suggest an inexpensive variant of the most basic type of miter saw to start, so you've got a good foundation to work from but don't have a ton of sunk cost if you upgrade later.
  • Circular Saw - You'll use this for breaking down sheets of plywood bigger than your table saw can handle. You can also use it as a stand-in for the table saw for the first few projects. I'm recommending a lightweight cordless model for convenience during these simple, short tasks, but if you work with thick materials you may eventually want a powerful corded one as well - I've got a cordless and then a monstrous 15-lb worm drive saw for heavy duty use. If you just want to split the difference right off the bat and have one tool that's okay for everything and not great at anything, get a basic corded one.
  • Jigsaw - For cutting curves and small notches. Make sure you get one with orbital motion, but other than that you can go pretty cheap on this because you won't use it that often. However, buy top-of-the-line blades; I really like Bosch blades.
  • Router - This is a very capable middle-of-the-road router. You'll eventually want to add a plunge base, and might add a lightweight trim router to make edge profiles more easily. You can get accessories to expand on this, or you can eventually dedicate it to a router table and buy new for those other things - the variable speed motor on this is ideal for table use.
  • Sander - This is the most general-purpose sort of sander, although it's a little on the aggressive side for final sanding. Just hand-sand where you need more finesse until you know what other sanders you might want.
  • Combination Square - Use this for laying out cuts and holes and stuff.
  • Speed Square - That blue book will show you tons of neat tricks with this square. Mostly you're going to use it as a short guide for the circular saw, though.
  • Tape Measure

    Edit: Looks like that's about $1,100.00 depending on your local tax rate and how much of it you can slip past untaxed. That's steeper than I expected, but it's also an entire barebones shop for less money than the table saw I really want.
u/LittleJohnStone · 5 pointsr/BeginnerWoodWorking

Marking Gauge

Contour Gauge

Pull Saw

There's a shaping thing I see advertised a lot on the WoodWorkWeb Youtube channel, except today when I want to find it. But it's a bunch of straight edges that are held together with wing nuts and you use to to replicate odd shapes for cutting to fit.

u/brad3378 · 5 pointsr/3DScanning

I think I would skip the 3D scanner and work with measurements instead.

I would buy a $10 tool to measure contours like this:

I would also buy a small dry erase board to capture notes in the background of photographs. My dry erase board would have messages such as "cross section #1" next to the contour measurement tool so you can keep your contour measurements organized.

Lastly, I would buy graph paper with your preferred square spacing, I would transfer the captured cross-section contours onto known coordinates on the graph paper. The measurements from the graph paper captures can be converted to splines in your favorite CAD software and then converted to sweeps or lofts.

u/Astramancer_ · 5 pointsr/DIY

An oscillating multi-tool with a cutting head and then judicious use of a chisel/screwdriver and hammer would let you cut a little into the jamb, letting the new flooring go under it a bit to hide the ugly cuts. (the same thing could be accomplished with a flush-cut saw if manual is your style)

You could also get a profile/contour gauge and use that to duplicate the jamb shape exactly and transfer it onto the tile and very, very carefully cut out the shape using a sharp knife. This method will be harder, of course.

u/roquelaure · 5 pointsr/whatisthisthing

The bottom of a laser level: you nail/attach the tack to the wall then can swivel the laser where you need it. Hold on, looking for a pic... ETA: Like the base of this one. I have the exact one in your pic, but I'll be darned if I can remember who made it so I can find a pic. The bottom of the actual level is magnetic and sits on the ring, and has a little thing that turns the level and the base stays stuck to the wall. (Edited a thousand times because I'm not making sense today. Yay cold meds.)

u/tanglisha · 5 pointsr/xxfitness

This thing is fabulous. It lets you take the measurements yourself, keeping the tension consistent each time.

u/TheMantelope · 5 pointsr/lifehacks

I use this magnetic stud finder: Totally Non-Risky Click I Swear

u/DesolationRobot · 5 pointsr/HomeImprovement

I second.

I have Franklin, but a magnet is still my preferred method. This guy is well worth the $10 if you don't just have rare earth magnets lying around. Cheap $10 electronic stud finders, however, are not worth anything.

u/kwalb · 5 pointsr/DIY

Electric stud finders are shit. Buy this wonderful little magnet and wave it over a wall until it sticks. This will effectively just find the studs by finding the nails in the studs and sticking to them, then you know your stud location and you can move up and down on that to find the height you want.

Seriously. It works every single time, I hang mine on a piece of dental floss so I can swing it around on the wall until it sticks on it’s own.

It costs $7 and will prevent your tv from falling off of the wall.

CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder

u/TheBruceDickenson · 5 pointsr/OffGrid

If you don't have the wood yet you might be in a pinch. I burn wood to heat our house all winter, but definitely not anywhere near -30c. How much wood depends on the type of wood. Each species has a different BTU rating. Some burn hot and fast others are low and slow. I tend to use both. I like Poplar to get the stove warm and Oak to bank it all night.


I cut my own wood but if you don't you will need to be careful of sellers saying it is seasoned. A true seasoned piece of wood will be cut and split (generally) for a year. Some sellers will cut and split in the late spring/early summer and try to sell it in the winter. That won't cut it for most guys burning wood. I highly suggest investing into an inexpensive moisture meter. Split a piece of any wood that you are buying and test it. I try to burn at 20% or less.

Also, it might be really helpful for you to get a wall mounted propane heater. They are inexpensive (under $150 at the local big box store or on Amazon). Keep it on a thermostat to kick on if the wood fire goes out. Really helpful on punishing days. If you get the smaller 100 lb tanks you can take them to the filling station and have them filled cheaper than delivery.

Oh and get a carbon monoxide detector. If need to make sure you have enough fresh air in your house to support your wood burning stove and your ability to breathe!


Wood Heat Value Comparison Chart

u/ameades · 5 pointsr/powerwashingporn

Two options:
A wet wood stain.
Never used before not sure of it's quality.

Or buy a moisture meter and check the levels before you stain. Follow your stains recommendations.
General Tools MMD4E Moisture Meter, Pin Type, Digital LCD

u/GotMyOrangeCrush · 5 pointsr/homedefense
u/LDukes · 4 pointsr/Warmachine

I, and most people I see who use them, use a laser level which you can find in most any hardware store or, of course, online.

As an added bonus, they make deployment a breeze (see player on left). Just measure your 7" or 10" close to one table edge, lay the laser down at that point, and measure again along the opposite edge to make sure it's...well...level. Then you can quickly and accurately deploy your models without constantly remeasuring or relying on a scattering of dice/markers.

u/Kshennya · 4 pointsr/keto

Not DIY, but I use this [measurement tape] ( Several brands like it on there. It allows for a MUCH easier experience than a flexible measuring tape like for sewing because you put the "peg" into the holder to make a "loop" bigger than you need, then push the button and it tightens down to fit you... then you read it! I track measurements 1x a month in MFP. Not as cheap, but user friendly.

u/asiangoliath · 4 pointsr/lesbianfashionadvice

that's fantastic.

I have this one and it's pretty great: myotape

u/WhisperToARiot · 4 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Came here to say this, this was my best purchase all summer 👍 CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder

u/drucius · 4 pointsr/HomeImprovement

the buy it for life crowd will always argue for superior quality and buying a good tool. However another random redditor once summarized a different pragmatic:
"Buy a cheap tool, if it does the job you win. If you use it enough to break it you now are justified on buying the good version that might last you a lifetime."
I love harbor freight for economy cheap hand tools.

My exception is buy a good drill/driver. My current house might be close to 50% held together by work from my Milwaukee at this point.

Other tools no one mentioned that will come in handy: Outlet tester/live circuit detector, A stud finder, a set of allen wrenches.

u/Aperture_Engineering · 4 pointsr/AskEngineers

You can use a (fairly strong neodymium) magnet to find the sheetrock screws they use to, well, hold up the sheetrock. If you find a couple of magnetic spots in a line, odds are a beam is there. They even make magnets encased in plastic for this exact purpose.

Disclaimer: I don't really know anything about the strapping /u/jerkfacebeaversucks was talking about, so the magnet may be fooled by that too.

u/chrisbrl88 · 4 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Looks like surfactant bleed from high humidity following painting. Kilz it and repaint it.

You can get an inexpensive moisture meter to put your mind at ease.

u/scobot · 4 pointsr/howto

You would have to subtract the outer angle from 180.

Carpenters would have something like this "angle finder", which you could buy or borrow.

If you want to do it quick and dirty, just take two sticks (like paint stirrers maybe) and fasten them together at the end like the professional angle finder linked above. Put them in the spot you need to measure, pinch it tight once you have the angle, then lay it down on a piece of cardboard and mark it out with a pen. Cut the cardboard out and make sure it fits. Then use it as a template to cut your wood.

u/MSD0 · 4 pointsr/Tools

The Franklin is supposed to be good. I just use neodymium magnets myself. The last Bosch stud finder I used worked really well at detecting metal in the wall, but not wood.

u/grantd86 · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

From the pic it's hard to tell what those walls are made out of but I still wouldn't chance just putting it anywhere and hoping for the best. Suspect that it's not the answer you want to hear but the right answer is to buy a decent studfinder. Seems like a lot for just this project but if you own a house you will use it again in the future.

The low tech route is to tap your knuckle against the wall and listen for the solid spots.

u/McFeely_Smackup · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Studs run vertically, almost universally every 16" on center. there's no such thing as horizontal studs, but there will be horizontal "fire blocking" between studs like in this photo

The problem with magentic "stud finders" is they don't find studs, they find nails/screws...and it's not exactly uncommon for the drywall installer to catch the edge of a stud, or miss it entirely, and just mud over the useless screw.

a good stud sensor will show you exactly where the stud center/edges are. I've bought probably a dozen or more stud sensors over the years that have all sucked, The Franklin Prosensor looks kind of gimmicky, but it's by far the best I've ever used regardless of price.

u/sleeps_with_crazy · 3 pointsr/math
u/Pink7172 · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Start at the bottom. Mold needs moisture. Water tends to move down and pool. Moisture meters are not too expensive these days.

u/Wapiti-eater · 3 pointsr/ave
u/drtonmeister · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

In the USA the 1959 NEC introduced a rule that hasn't changed much to today; the “6 and 12 rule”:


>“receptacle outlets shall be installed so that no point along the floor line in any usable wall space is more than six feet, measured horizontally , from an outlet in that space.”

Communities/States sometimes make the most current NEC the local code right away, but it is not unusual for places to lag one or more code cycles behind. So it is quite possible that a mid 1960s house would have much larger distance along a wall between outlets, because they only needed to conform to the "20 foot rule" introduced in 1940 or the 1956 "12 foot rule".

Or, if there are outlets near enough to the corner on both adjacent walls, it could have been be compliant without an outlet on the 10' long wall.

Also, in some rural areas there may not have been code enforcement at the time that the home was built or added-on to, so the home was built to whatever standard the builder was accustomed to follow.

When outlets are put in at the time of build, they tend to be at consistent height. So if you have suspicion that there might be an outlet-box with the outlet removed hiding under the wallpaper, you can rub fingers along the wall at outlet height in order to feel any hollow or concealed cover behind the paper. You can also use a sensitive non-contact tester if you have one, to attempt to detect active wires behind the paper. Or use a stud-finder that has current detection. Or use a tone&probe "breaker finder".

u/Great_Lord_Kek · 3 pointsr/mechanicalpencils


I just bought it off amazon. They cost about $20-ish dollars with shipping and tax.

u/MammothChipmunk · 3 pointsr/videos

If you watch til the end of the video it says that the formula is still used, new chalk is available, and hoarding was for nothing.....(2:50)

The amazon is below and is for Hagoromo name brand full touch chalk

u/EntireOrchid · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Speed square + clamp of your choice + cordless saw with metal-cutting blade.

Or use a speed square to mark your cut with a pen and then freehand cut with an angle grinder. Following a line is a lot easier than just winging it.

u/lying_Iiar · 3 pointsr/woodworking

If the bandsaw runs, it should still be useful. You can purchase a new blade if there's an issue with the existing one. The chisels will be fine, but you'll have to learn how to sharpen them. Sharpening systems can be expensive, though.

Otherwise it depends a little on what you want to build.

If I were starting out on a significant budget, I think I'd go with a skil saw, triangle square, tape measure, and drill/driver set. And I'd be thrilled to have a bandsaw & chisels. If you can, buy a good skil saw. Don't too much worry about the quality of the rest.

Those will all be very useful later, too, of course. Might build some sawhorses first and go from there.

A skil saw is really useful for breaking down pallets, as well, in case you plan on making use of them as a source of lumber while you're starting out.

If you want a more specific list, I own these products:

You don't need a 25' tape and a 12' tape is easier to use.

That skil saw isn't the best in the world, but it'll get you pretty far.

Just a cheap, basic square.

You'll also want some clamps, no doubt. On a tight budget I'd get some walmart cheapies. They're not great, but they get the job done, and clamps are crazy expensive. You want them to be basically like this:

But larger (12-36"). And walmart brand is cheaper, I think they're about $3 for a 12" clamp.

Good luck! Ask questions!

If your goals are to do fine woodworking, like interior furniture (that isn't "rustic")...or if your budget is much larger, then you'll be looking at an entirely different set of tools.

Table saw, planer, orbital sander, bandsaw (if yours is no good), bench grinder, miter saw, jointer, in order of importance (to me!). And lots and lots of hand tools. Marking gauge, marking knife, awl, variety of drill bits, counter sinks.

Belt sander, disc sander, jigsaw, router. Router can be way up there in importance if you make good use of it--very versatile tool. I just don't use it a ton personally, and bits can be very expensive.

u/notagangsta · 3 pointsr/ofcoursethatsathing

Like this?

u/Sir_Beef_Wellington · 3 pointsr/bigdickproblems

For measuring girth, I recommend something like this it's much more accurate

u/brahelp24 · 3 pointsr/braswap

Soft measuring tapes are really cheap and sooooo worth the investment. Here's one on Amazon for less than $3 with free shipping. If you use the visual guide, it's very easy to figure it out and you only need to measure 5 things! Once you have your measurements, just post it to the subreddit and people can tell you what it means and where to start.

As someone who spent way, way too long in poor fitting bras, I cannot recommend /r/ABraThatFits enough. It literally changed my life. I'm sure other women can attest to that statement as well.

Edit: Take a look at The Bra Band Project as well. It's a real eye-opener!

u/Waitwhatwtf · 3 pointsr/Fitness

Cereal - retarded o'calories
Fast food - retarded o'calories

What you're going to need to bag an Adonis:

  • Tailor's tape

  • Food scale

  • This, or on whatever your boat floats

  • Patience

    I went from 250 - 200 in about 3 months by simply cutting out carbs entirely. Ketogenic diets can definitely help speed the process along, but you may find that chocolate cravings will replace penis cravings, so watch out for the backlash from hijacking a Hostess truck and devouring its contents wholesale.

    It's been said before, but read the FAQ.
    Use the food scale to help you plan accordingly to the nutritional data given by what you eat. Compare grams to grams. Boom, head shot.

    Measuring yourself with the tape is a much better metric than using a scale, in my opinion. Scales don't account for water weight or how full/empty your stomach was last time/is now.

    You can't out-exercise a shitty diet. Say that to yourself every time you go to eat something you shouldn't. You can have a treat when you're getting dicked by the type of guy you want. But then cut out the bullshit and get back to work. Beauty takes maintenance.

    Despite your desire for wanting cock, I highly recommend you exercise. Being healthy is a good thing. You may feel you have missed out X years, but health allows you to extend your life that much further. It's probably not as good, but getting in the habit now allows you to get boned by the old guys in your convalescent home.

    Your tits are probably going to sag. I'm just saying that now to mentally prepare you. I don't know what you look like, but I'm sure they're going to have a bit of sway that is unwelcome. I'm balding; we all have our flaws. On the bright side, I never have to pay for a hair cut again. I don't know what the silver lining is for saggy tits, but I'm sure you can figure it out. You're a smart person.
u/saroka · 3 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Thanks for running this!!

reddit raffle phrase gifting is fun.

Crazy Japanese thingy on my Main. ($5.99)

Basil seeds on my Main. ($2.47)

Sunglasses on my Main. ($3.15)

Nail polish top coat on my Polish. ($4.44)

Tape measure on my Hobbies. ($3.39)

Totaling... $19.44!


I'm curious to see what other combination I can do with just stuff for apartments. XD

Santoku knife on my Prep. ($7.04)

Baking spoons on my Prep. ($6.03)

Collapsible measuring cup on my Prep. ($7.81)

Totaling... $20.88

Blegh, it's a lot harder with apartment stuff. XD

u/stormist · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

I suggest getting two things that helped a ton with my prusa:

Building from scratch is really great because you then have a mental framework for diagnosing when something goes wrong. Have fun.

u/cawpin · 3 pointsr/guns

That won't really do much for leveling the scope as it mounts on the tube and can be off level itself.

I bought one of these several months ago after looking for a kit for quite awhile. It works just fine. you set one half on the top knob of the scope and the other half on a horizontal surface on the firearm, usually on the receiver. I used the railed part of the gas block on my AR.

u/about_treefity · 3 pointsr/guns
u/cpt_fuzzyboots · 3 pointsr/loseit

You can order a body comp measuring tape off amazon (don't use a seamstress tape). And there's a whole pile of formulas out there that you can put your measurements in, and it will give you an estimate of your body fat percentage. I did all of them, and picked the one that gave me the most median number (which for me was the US Department of Defense formula). I now just use that formula to track my progress.

I feel like this is the most cost-effective and reasonable method for the majority of people.

edit: I went back and it seems like the one I originally got isn't on Amazon anymore, but it looks exactly like this one: (I didn't get the calipers).
Found it:

This is the formula I use:

And this is the app I use on my phone to calculate and track everything:

Here's a chart explaining the different ranges:

u/lefinale · 3 pointsr/xxfitness

I have experienced the same anxieties. If you are exercising regularly or incorporating weights into your program - try to only weigh yourself every week or two (on Sundays in the AM, for example.)

Also invest in some Measuring Tape to get a better idea of progress. The scale can be really toxic, but if you are paying closer attention to your measurements and how your body feels in general then hopefully the anxiety will lessen! Muscle weighs more than fat, so the scale can be pretty useless once exercise becomes more of your daily routine.

u/TheForrestFire · 3 pointsr/loseit

That's why I bought this baby off of Amazon a year or two ago. Even when the scale doesn't go down, my waist measurement very consistently went down. Now I try to only weigh myself once every two or three weeks, while I measure my waist every three days.

u/BATassMOFO · 3 pointsr/xxketo

invest in a myotape under $10 on amazon

u/PapaTua · 3 pointsr/keto

Get something like this:

I got one and it revolutionized my body measuring.. As long as you measure in the same place each time, it's quite consistent.

u/abcd3fghijklmnop · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

This one worked for me, it finds the nails in the stud.

CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder

u/RugerRedhawk · 3 pointsr/Parenting

Youtube will have plenty of examples. Make sure you find a stud to secure it to. This is my go to studfinder these days if you don't already have one:

I just screwed one of these eye hooks to the bottom side of one of the upper shelves, then ran a lag bolt through the eye and into the stud behind the bookshelf. I did this in a couple spots, it will depend on how wide your bookshelf is as to how many you might decide to do. This is a particularly large bookshelf in my case and it goes all the way up to the ceiling. A good long wood screw would likely suffice in most cases. Also my bookshelf has an open back, you may need to do something slightly different if yours has an enclosed back on it, but you get the general gist of it.

u/quintios · 3 pointsr/DIY

OMGOMGOMGOMGOMG. Best $10 I ever spent. I love this thing:

u/Hhwwhat · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

For the future, grab one of these stud finders. Run it along the wall and it will hang on the screw heads that were used to secure the drywall. Also works great in lathe and plaster houses. It's really just a strong magnet.

u/g1bs0nsg · 3 pointsr/woodworking

Rare earth magnets work great, they latch on to nails/screws. Find one, then slide it up to find another above, and down to find another below, and you can be sure you're on a stud.

I have one of these, and it's never led me astray:

u/scottawhit · 3 pointsr/Tools

CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder

Best ever. Doesn’t do electrical, or much else, but it works! It’ll just stick to a nail once it finds one.

u/_sch · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

For just finding studs, I find these to be better than any of the fancy ones:

u/scottmccauley · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Here are the links without the referral tags:
Stud-finder and Fish Tape.

u/kharupt · 3 pointsr/DIY
u/99e99 · 3 pointsr/DIY

i wouldn't worry about drywall coming off the studs.. not even sure how this would happen.

game plan is sound. go for it. the only possible issue (and it's minor) is you could screw into an existing drywall screw, but the odds of this are almost 0. worst case is you screw 1/2" away.

but if you want to be absolutely sure, amazon sells these "stud-finders" that are just rare-earth magnets with a small level bubble. it finds studs by locating the drywall screws... nice little tool.

u/costar7634 · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement
u/eddyathome · 3 pointsr/PennStateUniversity

If you have about $60 you could just buy them and have some tools that will serve you well as a renter and then you could help out your friends (and maybe get free beers or food off them).

I think you mean a stud finder.

It's less than ten bucks.

An adjustable wrench is about the same price.

For a cordless rechargeable you're talking about $40 for this one.

I know you said borrow, but if you're renting it's good to have some basic tools for stuff like this and it's an investment to be honest. If you honestly can't get anyone to help, I already have the stud finder (metal detector), and wrench. It would be an excuse for me to finally get a drill. Let me know if nothing else works out.

u/bungwu · 3 pointsr/DIY

I have only ever used the magnet based ones that are inexpensive. The magnets find the drywall nails which are only in the studs.

u/JMac87 · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

I love the CH Hanson stud finder...basically the same concept of the magnets, but incorporates a small level so you can make an accurate mark.

u/TrickyWon · 3 pointsr/LifeProTips

This works beautifully it has a light coating on the back so you don't leave marks on the walls when you slide it around. Also, sweep diagonally when using it.

u/YAMMYRD · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Honestly a really good magnet, finds the nails that attach the lathe. I think I have this one

u/kathios · 3 pointsr/confession

Command strips is definitely the way to go, but I find for some things the piece of it that holds the item is too big and fat for some things.

Nailing is an art. The first thing you would do is get a stud finder to make sure you're nailing something into a board and not just your wall and air. Your wall can hold most light things but if it's something like a heavy mirror or even a heavy picture frame you definitely need to find a stud. This stud finder is magnetic and will find the nail in the stud.

Then you would want to get your drill with a drill bit that is smaller than the nail is. Drill a hole into the wall just slightly downward, or just go straight it if you're not confident with your angles. Only drill in a couple inches. Do not try to drill or nail right where the stud finder found the nail, considering that there is already a nail there. Up and down the entire length of the wall where the stud finder sticks to is fair game to nail things, and there should be another stud every X feet or so (it depends).

Now you can hammer your nail in, just go easy with nice even soft strokes. And hold the hammer all the way up by the metal part for accuracy.

This all probably sounds tedious for this one project, but if you plan on hanging up more and more things it's a good idea to practice your household handiness. good luck!

u/HvyMtlChaos · 3 pointsr/woodstoving

I had not tested it since I don't have a moisture meter (thought they were more than they actually are, thank you for the tip!). I'm going to buy this one and I guess I'll find out in 2 days what its condition is:

u/water889944 · 3 pointsr/woodworking

I am using this one - General Tools MMD4E Digital Moisture Meter

u/Fenwick23 · 3 pointsr/DIY

I was a telecom installer/electrician for many years, and none of that "we'll just run the phone wire under the carpet/staple along the baseboard" nonsense. My boss was insistent about putting wire inside walls. Over the years we'd tried just about every stud finder available. The classic Zircon is about as good as they get... but that's not saying much. They work fine with drywall of uniform thickness, but if you're looking at older mortar/plaster on lathe or button-board walls, forget it. Believe it or not, the stud finder we used most often was a 10 inch piece of stainless steel spring/piano wire, .030" diameter I think, though maybe larger. Basically the smallest we could securely grip with the cordless drill chuck. Clip and file the end into a roughly symmetrical spear point, and run it into the wall where you intend to install a box or MPLS ring, or where you intend to anchor something to a stud. Most studs are 16" on center, so you can guesstimate a likely starting point by measuring from the corner of the room. We used that plus the Zircon to choose our starting point. If you're installing wire and hit a void, you start sawing a hole for your box/MPLS. If you hit wood and want to anchor, drill again 1/2" in either direction to find the stud center and anchor. Now, if you hit a stud and want empty wall, or hit empty wall and want a stud, start drilling more holes horizontally, about every 3/4" until you find what you want. The advantage of drilling with thin piano wire is that it's trivially easy to fill the tiny holes.

u/MattyH · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

I've built 2 sets of very similar shelvles. My notes:

Make the shelves 8' between the uprights so you don't have to cut out the notches. (or cut the length to whatever the "between" length is).

You need some joists running from front to back to keep the OSB from sagging. Every 2 feet would be fine, but go every 16" for a super super sturdy shelf that can hold really heavy stuff without sagging.

I'd use 1/2" plywood instead of the OSB, though the OSB would work fine (but only with the joists). Plywood is stronger and more stable over time. May not be an issue.

Circ saw is the tool for the job. And a speed square

The other tool for the job is a cordless screw gun/drill to drive the screws. Corded would work too, just not nearly as easy. Use deck screws and no predrilling required.

If you're wanting some new tools, I highly recommend Ryobi's lithium-ion cordless stuff that is common in hardware stores these days. The little cordless circ saw and drill could knock this out easily. I've ripped plenty of plywood with the circ saw, surprising myself how well it works.

Regardless of brand, if you're getting a circ saw, get one that shoots a laser out of the front on the cutting line. Allows you to cut quite straight lines freehanding it.

Have fun!

u/thesirenlady · 2 pointsr/Machinists

its fine, though a bit small for what you want. good to have for general workshop purposes though

For squaring a rest and platen, or a 123 block.

u/Vlacik · 2 pointsr/DIY

The entire project can be done with these tools:

u/TornadoDaddy · 2 pointsr/funny

Perhaps you should consider buying one of these before your next big purchase

u/deadfallpro · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting
u/rushclay · 2 pointsr/NASCAR
  • Use this...

  • Copy the design onto your material

  • Cut it out

  • Profit
u/Babelius · 2 pointsr/loseit

Use a different metric. Weight will fluctuate depending on if you're building muscle or retaining water, or any number of variables. Maybe invest in a tape measure? This is about 3.50, and will definitely be a better account on top of the scale.

Also, starving yourself/using meal substitutes to artificially lower your weight may make you feel good when the scale numbers go down, but the side-effects are definitely not worth it (muscle-loss, malnutrition, etc). Be patient, measure your body-fat percentage rather than weight (muscle is denser than fat!) and be diligent. You'll get there, don't get discouraged.

u/Azurphax · 2 pointsr/StarWarsArmada

I have an army painter line laser, and got one because I saw two other people using them (in a fully lit room). The price seemed a little high. The non-line thing, the crossover x, really? That sucks. The word is that they are finnicky - the QA must suck because some are fine and other aren't. I've heard about other laser line levels having a curve to them perhaps because the lens was mismounted. I haven't heard about the non-line ones, but people were talking about how even with fresh batteries the line didn't work very brightly on some of them.

I had a similar issue, bought mine, tried it out same day, worked great. Left the batteries in there, came back to play with it a week later and, same as you, working, but barely. Just mega-dim.

So, I got new batteries. Tried them, they work fine. Now I store the batteries next to the laser in a snack bag. When its game time, pop in the batteries, then take them out hours and hours later when the games are done. I haven't needed to buy a third set of batteries after the first mistake of leaving them in there for a week straight. I have RC things as well, and those batteries are way more problematic. Storing the batteries out of the device isn't a big deal.

The army painter target lock laser works fine if you're good about battery care. Can we get a pic of the X thing? I bet if you send that pic to army painter they'll help you out.

A quick googling shows that this is being talked about on the FFG forums. Here's some things I found:

u/Athole · 2 pointsr/XWingTMG

I got a laser level from walmart, it's nice because I can put it on the table and it casts a line, so I don't have to worry too much about my hand shaking, just line up the arc lines with the cast line.

u/bdog2g2 · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I have a small bubble level with a magnet that I set on top of the bars and manually turn the z axis motors till it the bubble centers.

I had to do this last week because after 3 weeks of perfect prints I couldn't get a good first layer for shit. I checked the x axis rods and they were off a bit... enough to cause bed leveling hell.

Something like this...just make sure it's only like 4-6 inches to fit.

u/dieselgeek · 2 pointsr/guns

I use "Level, Level, Level"


u/Brotherauron · 2 pointsr/guns
u/pierre_x10 · 2 pointsr/keto

Get a body tape measure, they are fairly cheap, like this one:


Look up how to measure your body parts (waist, hips, arms, etc), and track those like you would your weight.


I only recently re-started keto, but the last time I was eating keto, there were a couple months that my weight didn't go down, but I could tell from my belt that I was still slimming down. Keto is great for body recomp.

u/TooHotInPhoenix · 2 pointsr/loseit
u/Cabin_Sandwich · 2 pointsr/bodybuilding

i like these, you can do your measuring with one hand.

u/sp0radic · 2 pointsr/loseit

Where would a product like this be ranked?

u/todays_throwaday · 2 pointsr/RedPillWomen

I'm not sure if this is quite the right place to put this, but as someone who is very into fitness, health, etc, I want to put good information out there for people to see. Your statement about not losing weight possibly due to muscle gain reminded me of a pretty important idea:

Worry less about the scale and more about the mirror and your waist/hip measurements. The scale numbers matter, but not as much as you might think.

Here is an article on the average ideal waist:hip, waist:chest, and BMI for both men and women:
Ideal to real: What the perfect body really looks like

For the BMI, I'd recommend using this calculator, which BMI with an exponent of 2.5 instead of 2.0, making it better for people of significantly above or below average height:

New BMI Calculator

Here were the ideal numbers for women designed by men:

  • BMI of 18.8

  • Waist-to-hip ratio ratio of .73

  • Waist-to-chest ratio of .69

    Obviously, you have less control over bust size than you might like, but handling your waist:hip ratio and trying to eat towards the ideal BMI is going to massively increase your sex appeal, mating options, and body satisfaction. The good news is, these are averages, and as long as you are reasonably close, you are going to be somebody's ideal.

    EDIT: Just to give a concrete example of this, I like narrower/flatter hips, a smaller chest, and a bit more muscle than most men. This will lead to a small overall size and low curves, but a somewhat higher BMI due to the higher muscle density. However, most women would be very well served by tailoring their fitness regimen to approach the above numbers over time.

    You can track both your weight and your measurements pretty cheaply. Here are a couple of products on Amazon that make it very easy:

    Body measurement tape, $5

    Digital scale, $23

    I own both of these products and I am very satisfied with them. I'd say measure yourself in the morning after relieving yourself for the most accurate & consistent results.

    Fitness and health are both easier and harder than people make them out to be. Often we pursue ideals that are a bit wrongheaded, and it is difficult to form good habits. However, once you pick the right goals, and you establish the good habits, it gets fairly easy and very rewarding. Happy self-improvement, folks!
u/WillowWagner · 2 pointsr/keto

If you're trying to keep burning fat, you absolutely need to keep that deficit. If you're lifting, keep it up. If you're not, start, even with just resistance bands. Also keep moving. Walk a lot. And get something like this: or get a soft fabric tape measure and write down your measurements. A stall is a month or more with no change in ANY physical measurement. IIRC Jimmy Moore once went 10 weeks with no weight loss, but he lost 6 inches at his waist at the same time, back when he first did Atkins.

At this point it's really good to stay focused on the process and on how well you feel. The external rewards aren't going to come as fast, so enjoy your steak and butter, and celebrate every tiny gain.

u/What_the_shit_Archer · 2 pointsr/xxketo
u/tryingtohike · 2 pointsr/xxketo

I've only tracked inches since i started Keto. I used this tape measure that came w/ a scale before only to realize that it didn't give an accurate number since there was around 3 inches that went unmeasured. my best guess was that I was 50 inches before maybe 51 in waist and now I jump between 44 and 45 inches.

u/torinmr · 2 pointsr/bodyweightfitness

I have one of those, and the %BF it reports varies wildly day-to-day, by several percent. As such, I've found it pretty much useless.

I've found a simple waist measurement to be a much more consistent measure of BF progress, even though it doesn't directly correspond to a % number. If you want a fancy gadget, I bought this for a few bucks and it makes body measurement easier and more consistent.

u/magele · 2 pointsr/loseit

I use this :

and I love it, I also paid quite a bit for a good digital scale, different ways to measure progress, but for 6 bucks you can't go wrong!

u/[deleted] · 2 pointsr/loseit

what i do for motivation is make me a weight chart in excel. in one column i have the date i weight myself on and in the other column is what I should be weighing for the week. This way I can know exactly how much I'll weigh and by what date I will be getting there. I try to shoot for 2lbs a week weight loss as that's pretty good progress and keeps me more motivated. A weekly cheat is OK as long as you plan to make up for it by eating less later on. I visit my parents on the weekend so my weekends are basically cheat days, but I try not to go too overboard still. I also had a cheat week where I made no progress (vacation) but I still kept on trucking. You'll have your ups and downs, try to focus more on the positive effects of your efforts and don't dwell on it if you gain a pound one week.

Also I would recommend tape measure and calipers. This way you'll know when you lose fat vs just water weight fluctuations on the scale (the scale can fluctuate at least 5lbs).

Set your goals, try to achieve them every week, and keep track of your measurements! Stick to healthy foods, while you can lose weight eating fried foods you have to eat less of them for this to happen, than say, a salad. You can eat a lot of salad and not have it impact your calories for the day.

Protein is also important. Protein will keep you full longer! Meat, eggs.

Avoid excessive carbs but a piece of bread here and there doesn't hurt too much as long as it's under your goal. Don't expect to be able to fill up on bread though.

If you don't reach your goal for the week then you need to adjust the amount of calories you are eating! Eating less food vs eating more isn't going to kill you (as long as you only lose 2lbs per week and not any more!)

In the beginning you should see a lot of progress, then you'll level out and it will become harder to lose weight as you reach your goal. Adjust your calories then and don't get discouraged!

Good luck on your weight loss journey.

u/majormick3y · 2 pointsr/keto

I use one of these and measure at the same time each day

u/SathedIT · 2 pointsr/lifehacks

There are such things as magnetic stud finders. They are amazing.

u/wharthog3 · 2 pointsr/pics
u/-chrispy- · 2 pointsr/pics

+2 on this... These are great and the HDMI cable is nice... I also recommend the Magnet Stud Finder... I have one of these and love it... It sticks to the drywall screws used to hang drywall to the studs and hasn't failed me yet...

u/scottklarr · 2 pointsr/DIY

I would recommend using a magnetic stud finder. They allow you to find where the drywall screws are. Once you find a screw with it, move it vertically to find at least 2 other screws to verify it's just not a stray screw. This is the one I use regularly.

Then you can mount directly into the stud.

You could also use toggler snaptoggle anchors if the studs don't line up quite where you want the mounts to be. I use these very often for monitor mounting. The drywall is plenty strong enough. These do require a 1/2" hole to be drilled, however. So keep that in mind if you will be having to patch them later.

u/unknown_name · 2 pointsr/interestingasfuck

This is by far the best one I've ever owned. Why, you ask? It's magnetic. None of that beeping crap that doesn't work half the time. This one is what you need.

u/Someguypoiuyt · 2 pointsr/homeowners

Total waste in my book. All you really need is one of these magnetic ones. The fancy stuff didn't work for me but this does every time.

CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder

u/OverTheCandleStick · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder

If you search Google for"metal stud finder" you'll get a shit ton of results....

u/bartharris · 2 pointsr/DIY

I have been using this one for years, with great success. It stows inside my drill case like a James Bond gadget (From Russia With Love). I have never used an electronic stud finder. The only problem I have had with this one is when I find metal studs, but I have since learned how to deal with them.

u/goodcheapandfast · 2 pointsr/blackfriday

Thanks for the heads up. This is arguably a better product (it has a level built-in) at a cheaper price:

StudBuddy is USA-made, however. This comes from China.

u/jdsmn21 · 2 pointsr/hometheater

I just put this one up last weekend for my 55". I don't know if you desire articulating though, but IMHO, it folds flat enough that the articulating is just a bonus. Everything was in the kit for hardware. I know you said 60", but if it meets for weight, I'd go ahead.

You might want to stop at the hardware store first and pick up a magnetic stud finder before ordering a mount - they are like $5-10, and handy to have if you ever want to hang anything else (shelf, large picture).

u/ihartponiez · 2 pointsr/DIY

There are actually stud finders made with rare earth magnets:

I've used lots of fancy electric ones in the past. Nothing is more consistent than this cheap thing.

u/zerostyle · 2 pointsr/everymanshouldknow

As little as possible. The more crap you have, the more it weighs you down.
That said, every home needs some necessities to get by. For me those generally involve cooking, sleeping, and repairs. I just finished watching Parks & Rec and am in a bit of a Ron Swanson mood.

For the kitchen (all recommended by America's Test Kitchen):

Victorinox 8" Chef's Knife

Victorinox Paring knife

CDN Instant Read Thermometer

Lodge 12" skillet - cheap and will last you forever

Crockpot, 6qt - the one kitchen appliance I'd cheat with. Easy delicious meals. Toss in a cheap cut of meat (chuck roast, etc), salt, pepper, garlic, onions, carrots, whatever. Let it sit for 6-8 hours. Dinner for 3 meals.


I'd probably just pick up a cheap set of craftsman stuff (screwdrivers, hammer, sockets, pliers). Splurge on the ratchet and any power tools you need:

Bahco 3/8" ratchet - same as snapon F80 at 1/2 the price

Other misc. tools that are quite handy:

Magnetic stud finder - in a new place you're going to be hanging pictures, installing shelving, and mounting curtain rods. These are dirt cheap and super convenient.

Multimeter - Flukes will last you for life. If you need to do any electrical work, these are great. If you don't want to splurge up front just borrow them or buy a cheap $15 one at home depot.


Get comfortable pillows and nice sheets. Don't get all caught up in the 1000 thread count crap, it's a hoax. Just get at least 400tc or so, and preferably egyptian or pima cotton. My favorite sheets are actually a super cheapo brand that are 60% cotton 40% polyester. I prefer them because they feel more "smooth and cool" rather than "soft and warm".

Obviously get real furniture: dresser, bed with headboard, etc.


I won't go into too much detail here, but consider cutting the cord (/r/cordcutters).

A cheap Roku3 + netflix + an OTA antenna can go a long way.

If you have a lot of pictures/media/etc, don't forget about backups. I'd look into an inexpensive NAS, or at least a USB harddrive. They are dirt cheap and worth the insurance.


Lastly, don't forget renters or homeowners insurance. If you are renting, you can get rather good coverage for quite cheap. I just paid around $50 for 12 months of coverage on my apartment ($15k coverage, $1k deductible). I shopped around at 5 different places and Amica came out the cheapest by FAR.

Other than that, you don't need much. Buy less crap. Don't buy some $50 automatic electronic wine opener when a $1 wine key will do the job. Same for a can opener.


I recently bought a magnetic stud finder that runs purely on a pair of magnets rather than battery. I run it in an 'S' shape across my wall and it sticks to certain areas.

Now here's the problem: What do I even do with that information? I want to hang some heavier things up (say, a mirror or something) and as far as I know you're supposed to hammer into the stud but like... if the stud finder is attaching to the metal in the frame then won't me hammering a nail into it endanger the frame? Wouldn't I be clanking right into the metal already in there? What if the thing I'm hanging needs to be attached to more than one stud and they're not close enough?

Should I mark an inch below / above / next to the spot that the stud finder attached to? How am I supposed to know that that's still part of the frame?

Ftr, this is the stud finder:

I'm sure this is all supposed to be very obvious... google seems to think so since I can't find any real resources aside from 'stud finders help you find studs'.

Thank you!

u/mr-peabody · 2 pointsr/DIY

I got this thing. Works like a champ.

u/mrtramplefoot · 2 pointsr/DIY

I really like this finder, it's cheap, easy to use, and accurate. Just make sure you use a fresh 9v Zircon StudSensor Pro SL Edge Finder Deep-Scanning Stud Finder with SpotLite Pointing System

u/steviethev · 2 pointsr/DIY

I have a "deep reading" stud finder that worked wonders for finding studs behind thick plaster. It wasn't all that expensive either - this is what I have

u/Cant_Spel · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Be sure to check You Tube for proper use. Just like a hand plane, card scrapers can be improperly used resulting in folks dismissing their ability. I flex mine slightly like a "U" shape and pull it towards me (paying attention to the grain so as to not dig it in).
Roamins note on quality of wood below is a good one. Soft wet pine will be difficult no matter what. You might consider purchasing some wood and letting it sit stickered (with spacers) for a while to help air it out. If you want to be completely anal about it you can test moisture content with a moisture meter which measures electrical current between 2 points through wood. You’re looking for the wood to stabilize to your environment. Home Depot likely buys bulk from else ware and ships to your area meaning the wood will not only be green (recently cut) but will also be incredibly out of whack with your local humidity. This is why you see crazy warped boards at most big box stores.
Down the road you can look into buying from places with kiln dried and/or stabilized wood. I have the luck of living near a word supplier that ships all over while maintaining a store front for walk ins. Their stuff is great. I suspect most larger cities have similar places (woodcraft being a large multi state business).

u/pyrotek1 · 2 pointsr/woodstoving

firewood moisture meter this a tool or instrument to give you the information you need. We moved in to a new to us house and the fire wood we get has a higher moisture content than I want. We made a wood dryer for the first fuel of the day. Wood dryer detail

You are doing nothing wrong. You simply need more information on what works and what moisture content burns well. A high moisture fuel will sit and not burn until the water has been baked off then start releasing heat.

u/lovesthewood · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Take the guesswork out of the equation:

Get yourself a moisture meter, e.g.

  • Measure a piece of wood that is dry - has not been out in the elements and has been in your house or dry workshop for months.
  • Measure the wet wood.
  • Bring the wet wood inside
  • Periodically measure the wet wood. When it's close to the dry wood, surface/square it and use for furniture.
u/free_sex_advice · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

The two things that jump out are the downspout on the right and the windows. It's a bit difficult to tell how the roof goes there, but it looks pretty tricky and then that downspout appears to dump water right on the tricky spot - all of the downspouts need short extensions to get the water away from the corners.

Also, where the end of the gutter is right up against the side of the house. Is the gutter cap well sealed? Does the siding run behind it or did they gutter first then cut the siding around the gutter?

The windows look nice with the wide flat white area around them, but what material is that? How is it flashed to the top of the lower window, how is the upper window flashed to it? It's really difficult to build out a detail like that and make it waterproof.

You'll know more if you can figure out how high up the leak is - yes, the water can very easily move down through the wall. A moisture meter is inexpensive. Read the sheetrock inside just above the baseboard where the water is worst. Read the wall up the side of the window trim on both windows. You may get a clue from that.

It's a bit more money, but you can get Flir 1 for your cell phone - iPhone linked, but there's an Android one too. Take a look at the walls from inside and the ceiling and the side walls of that section. The moisture alone should make for cold spots, but it might be especially obvious on a cold, rainy day. Good general contractors have both moisture meters and Flir 1. Any friend that's a fireman probably has access to a Flir camera. A good home inspector has these tools. I'd offer to help, but I can tell from the architecture that you live nowhere near me.

Please update us later.

u/b_doodrow · 2 pointsr/houston

I think this is the one we used. We gave it away when we were done so I can't say for certain. Just make sure it has the probes like this one. They are fairly cheap. We bought a couple of them and compared. The ones that do not have probes show a much lower moisture content which is not ideal

u/blankey2 · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

something like this:

moisture detector

u/Mod74 · 2 pointsr/gadgets

If we're going down the semi-DIY route, one of these can make life so much simpler when fixing things to walls and ceilings.

And also help you avoid hitting wires or pipes. Worth every penny imo.

u/thetonyk123 · 2 pointsr/ultrawidemasterrace

I'm assuming you have drywall with wood studs. All you really need is the wall mount, a drill, and a stud finder. A pencil would be useful aswell for marking stuff out.

You'll need to locate your wall studs. You can do this using a basic stud finder. Use the stud finder to locate and mark a stud close to where you want the screen to be. You might not get it exactly where you want it because studs are only placed every so often, 16" on center is common. Then after your sure a stud is there (I always knock on the wall and listen to double check) you can start to mount it. You'll need to buy the actual mount. I use this basic wall mount for one of my screens and it is quite adjustable. Align the wall mount along the stud to where you want it then drill pilot holes for the screws. After you drill the pilot holes just screw the mount in. Try pulling on it a bit just to make sure its stable and secured into the stud. Then (if you bought the mount I linked) you just screw the plate into the back of your monitor and slide it in. If all goes well it should be mounted solidly to the wall.

u/boatsnlowes · 2 pointsr/woodworking

I have a cheap old Delta 10” miter saw that cuts great 45s with the following setup.

Use a digital angle finder to set the bevel and angle. I don’t trust the built in detents or bevel gauge. It also helps with squaring the fences.

When cutting smaller pieces, a zero clearance fence really helps get a precise cut. You can align the work piece to the kerf line in the fence to get an exact cut. I replicated the one in this video.

I also use a middle of the road Diablo 60 tooth blade in the saw for cleaner cuts. I keep a 40 tooth in the table saw and also have an 80 on hand for really fine work. Both saws are 10” so I can move the blades between them if necessary.

Good luck, I spent a lot of time building scrap frames practicing 45s. Decent corner or band clamps are also a must have for assembly!

u/ZedHunter666 · 2 pointsr/woodworking
u/isobane · 2 pointsr/coins

hmmm...I thought "cunt hair" was a measure of length, not value...

u/ak99615 · 2 pointsr/woodworking

I have this moisture meter. It's done well measuring some lumber that is quite wet (~22%), but this is the first time I've bought lumber from an actual lumber mill that kiln dries their wood. The guy at the mill says they dry to 7%. I can't get a reading above 1% at any spot in the wood and at any depth.

To add, the boards milled well through the jointer and the planer with no tear out. However, the resulting sawdust was quite fine and the planer chips were a little brittle.

u/Rick91981 · 2 pointsr/homeowners

The chances are very very small, but if you'd like peace of mind, get a stud finder that detects ac voltage. Something like this

u/ODIN111999 · 2 pointsr/math

If you're not looking for the original (Japanese-made that ceased production) chalk. Either way not sure you can beat performance you get for this price.

u/Stratocast7 · 2 pointsr/funny

Well my Amazon search history and recommendations is about to get weird.....

Edit: Found it-

Muf Products Landing Strip 30 Foot / Count Hair Measuring Tape Measure - Gag Gift Funny Tools

u/rnaa49 · 2 pointsr/BeginnerWoodWorking

What kind are you looking for? Something like a T-bevel? Or a digital level? I've got both, and they work fine for their particular applications.

u/evanphi · 2 pointsr/ender3

This makes me think that your x-gantry is not squared up properly, or when you were trying to get it square you forced those wheels out of alignment.

Disassemble the gantry from both carriers (you'll have to remove it completely from the z-screw to remove the left side) and adjust the wheels on the carriers first. They should be just tight enough to hold them up vertically but you should be able to slide them up and down with minimal resistance.

Then start the reassembly process. Install the left end of the gantry first, and get the gantry arm as flat/parallel as possible along the base's protrusion towards center. I lay something thick and flat on this protrusion so I can make sure the gantry arm is parallel to it. Slide that end on through the z-screw, etc.

Now when assembling the right side, you have your bolts visible on either side of the vertical track, so you can adjust for level/square from the right side. Do the same method as the left side with aligning the gantry arm with the protrusion that goes to center to get you close to square. Don't completely tighten these right side bolts, though. Measure DOWN from the top of the vertical struts to the gantry arm and tighten the right side bolts completely once you get it squared up. I recommend using a locking combination square, and don't worry about the exact number for distance, just that they are the same.

Through this whole process you shouldn't have touched your eccentric nuts and your base on the right should still be relatively stable.

u/reddigaunt · 2 pointsr/Wellthatsucks
u/MrHookup · 2 pointsr/pics

Thanks for this! Never thought there was a better way to find the studs.

Said in the pigs voice on Toy Story 2 "50 bucks ain't bad!"

u/xtothel · 2 pointsr/homeowners

Try to get something like this
ProSensor 710 Franklin Sensors ProSensor 710 Precision Stud Finder Yellow

Saved me a lot of time.

u/bill_bull · 2 pointsr/Tools

Do you guys really not use Franklin 710's? They are awesome, you can even put it right over a stud, turn it on and it won't freak out. It uses multiple sensors instead of one, so it compares the relative density readings of the different sensors in one place, instead of finding a stud based on relative density from one sensor changing with movement. Plus it shows both edges of the stud at the same time.

If you don't use that, go with magnets. Nothing else it worth the money.

u/INTPx · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

10x better than any stud finder out there. You can get a blue rebadge at Costco for a lot cheaper

u/mahout13 · 2 pointsr/DIY
u/Godzilla_in_PA · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

Get a stud locator, then you'll know where the framing is.

u/GrifterDingo · 1 pointr/Documentaries
u/andersleet · 1 pointr/funny
u/theoriginalmack · 1 pointr/guitars

Best 25 bucks I've spent as a home owner. stud finder

u/niceflipflop · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

Some good suggestions in here so far. I agree you're probably fine.

Fyi the best settling stud finders are pretty hit or miss. If you want more confidence try a Franklin. It's not magic but multitudes better than what people usually buy.

ProSensor 710 Franklin Sensors ProSensor 710 Precision Stud Finder Yellow

u/SensitiveFella · 1 pointr/lifehacks

Get one of these at Costco for ~$30 (their version is blue). Not only does it find studs instantly without having to move it around, but it shows you how thick they are.

u/duhvorced · 1 pointr/BuyItForLife
u/genmud · 1 pointr/DIY

Tap on the wall with your knuckle and listen for the difference in sound, good stud finders can be had for fairly cheap as well.

ProSensor 710 Franklin Sensors ProSensor 710 Precision Stud Finder Yellow

u/iveo83 · 1 pointr/woodworking

it looks like this

but I think it was my grandfathers prob 30+ years old so I assume its good. I can look into getting a digital one though.

u/tpodr · 1 pointr/woodworking

That one sucks long term. The body is plastic. The electronics stopped working after 8 months.

Recently got this one: GemRed 82305 2in1 Angle Finder Ruler (200mm)
Works better, haven't had it long enough to know how long it will last. I wish one side was thicker like the General Tools version above. But I have recently been using it a lot and finding it to be accurate.

u/Soloflex · 1 pointr/woodworking

I use one of these. My rule of thumb is that typically fresh wood is 25% (wet?) and you want stuff to be in the 5-10% range. I think this can take 6ish months but it depends on humidity, thickness and how you store the wood. I have a big rack of oak slabs that I stacked with sticks in between. I'm no expert though.

u/adamateur · 1 pointr/woodworking

The slab is about 3" thick throughout. I was told that it dried outside for almost 10 years before being planed and finished, but that was in the Philippines which has a much higher equilibrium moisture content. Also, it was moved from the Philippines to Nebraska. In February. A bit of a temperature change as well.

I bought this $20 moisture meter from amazon, and should be able to report the results this weekend:

I'm not around enough to do the job myself, and I trust a professional to do the job much better than I. I'll certainly be discussing the options with him though, so I'm very appreciative of your advice. I spoke to a few different people, some who recommended just epoxy and some butterfly inlays in addition to the epoxy. I only got one actual price quote, which was $1,500- that was just epoxy, but of course would include refinishing the table.

u/Lunulae · 1 pointr/DIY

YMMV but I have one of these, and while it definitely will magnetize itself to a screw you have to have faith that the people who put up your drywall got all the screws nicely into the middle of the stud. The people who built my house definitely didnt. The studs arent all perfectly 16 inches on centre either. After using this while mounting a large tv and putting a bunch of unnecessary holes in our walls to find the studs we bought a sensor one it made sense for us to pay the extra for peace of mind because we were renovating and hanging a bunch of heavy things though

u/DylanCO · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

Oh ya definitely mildew. And it a lot less than I thought it would be. It'll most likely come off with just a good scrubbing. I highly doubt you have any other moisture problems. But if you want to be extra sure we use a much more expensive version of this

Is the bathroom on the top floor of the house?

Is there an exhaust fan in the bathroom? If so and it's a older one that's not quite up to snuff anymore I would suggest replacing it or at least cleaning it out.

u/LittleHelperRobot · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

Non-mobile: Moisture meters

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

u/newhampshite · 1 pointr/homeowners

>DAE grubs?

I heard you buy a bag of grub killer and spread it in your yard.

>What common things?

Get a stud finder like this there's a knockoff blue version you can get at Costco too.

>should I insulate it and is that difficult to do?

Insulating is easy. It's putting up all the drywall and prepping it for painting that's a pain in the ass.

>Is it expensive to replace a door?

Depends on your definition of expensive. I'd say 4-600. A general contractor or a handyman with experience in doors could help.

u/TinCupChallace · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

Those finders suck. Get the thirty dollar one from Costco. It doesn't have a wire detector but those aren't accurate anyways.

Cut a small hole... Investigate for wires... If there's something behind it, patch it and don't worry bc a tv will cover it up if it isn't perfect

It's basically this but in blue :
ProSensor 710 Franklin Sensors ProSensor 710 Precision Stud Finder Yellow

u/kirbydanger · 1 pointr/woodworking


Good to know... I may pick one of these up as a replacement if I have issues with mine. Thanks!

u/SteveAndTheCrigBoys · 1 pointr/Wellthatsucks

My studfinder is shit. My old boss had a seriously nice one for about $60 that had ~12 LED's that would light up in succession around a stud (mine was $15 and had a wildly inaccurate single LED).

Still, find an outlet, measure 16" from one side and start knocking. Then punch a bunch of skinny nails through in 1/4" increments wherever it feels solid. If you're gonna mount a TV in your apartment, a few tiny nailholes (especially in a row that are super easy to spackle over) aren't gonna ruin your deposit. Then pull 16" from that nailhole and there should be another stud. I've hung 6 tv's in the last 5 years, it's not rocket science.

Edit: it's actually only $50 on Amazon ProSensor 710 Franklin Sensors ProSensor 710 Precision Stud Finder Yellow

u/BrannigansLuv · 1 pointr/DIY

Similar thing. Get an angle gauge.

GemRed 82305 Digital Angle Finder 7-Inch Protractor (200mm Stainless Steel Angle Finder Ruler)

u/mrmackster · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

I have a lot of horsehair plaster walls, and I have had decent luck with . It's not perfect, but better than Zircon I have tried.

u/iamajs · 1 pointr/homeowners

> Get these magnetic stud finders, rather than wasting money on an electronic stud finder. I own like 4 electronic stud finders, and none of them work as well as these.

This electronic stud finder is quite possibly the best one I've ever used:

u/whfournier · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

I have one of these and it works very well, Costco sells the same thing in blue for about $40. Not the cheapest thing out there but I'm happy with it. Just keep in mind if you have thick plaster or double drywall and stud finder is probably going to have trouble.

u/cheesuschrists · 1 pointr/HelpMeFind
u/TheLegendOf1900 · 1 pointr/GentlyWeepsPlayers

Do NOT buy this. It comes with 5 drills/drivers/impacts. Here is what you need:

u/reg_sized_rudy · 1 pointr/Fitness

This recent invention could help you finally determine your accurate height: you're welcome

u/road_warrior_1 · 1 pointr/Carpentry

A saw, drill with bits, measuring tape.

These are some of the tools I have. They are, admittedly, more aggressive than what you might need for your first project but it should give you an idea of were to start from.

u/Karate_Prom · 1 pointr/oddlysatisfying
u/giftedandcursed · 1 pointr/specializedtools

I see this one rated highest and this is the one I personally own for auto body....

General Tools 837 Metal Contour Gauge, Profile Gauge, Shape Duplicator, 6-Inch (152mm), Stainless Steel Pins, Precisely Copy Irregular Shapes For Perfect Fit and Easy Cutting

u/Elbynerual · 1 pointr/woodworking

Use one of these. It'll be painstaking and you should watch a couple videos on how to do it but you should be able to get almost exactly what you're looking for.

u/RandomJoke · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement
u/MC_Preacher · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

For complex shapes, I prefer one of these

They are fantastic for transferring those shapes to wood, metal etc.

I would suggest snapping a chalk line on your existing countertop, about an inch away from the wall. That way you know you are keeping the contour gauge at a consistent distance from your target shape.

u/Stevenerwin90 · 1 pointr/oddlysatisfying

this is a contour gauge

u/JaSkynyrd · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

This will really help, plus a coping saw and some caulk.

u/chorkea · 1 pointr/xxfitness

A year ago I was in your position - 21, 5'5" and 240 pounds. Now I weigh 145 (still trying to build muscle)!

You have already received tonssssss of great advice but I thought I'd let you know, from someone who was basically in your position, that this is possible and you can do it! Here is my 2 cents:

  • You discuss working out, and it sounds like you have been keeping it up for about 6 weeks, so that is a really good start. Don't play down your accomplishments by saying it hasn't been that long. Take the advice here on workouts and keep it up, as it is good for your health. Personally, I enjoy running or doing bodyweight fitness because I don't have good access to a gym, but do what works for you! However, note that weight loss is mostly diet, not exercise!

  • In terms of diet, here again, you have good suggestions. I went the MyFitnessPal calorie counting route and that has worked well for me. No restrictions on what you eat, though you will end up eating healthier to be fuller. This also allows you to understand how much you are cheating. If I have some sort of special occasion and eat 250 extra calories I can see how much this effects me in the long run, whereas in the past I may have said "well I ate 2 cookies so now I'm doomed forever and may as well eat all this ice cream." Take baby steps. You may even want to start by simply logging what you eat rather than restricting it.

  • In terms of progress. You are right not to focus on the scale. Still "feeling yourself getting tighter" might not be a very objective standard of measurement either. Use one of these to measure yourself accurately and take periodic progress pictures. Losing a lot of weight is difficult to comprehend. I still picture myself about how I probably looked at 180ish, and even that has taken a long time. You will need these in the future to truly understand how far you have come!
u/sliverworm · 1 pointr/DIY

This one is awesome

u/GhostriderFlyBy · 1 pointr/gaming

Your friend needs some backup...

u/TherianUlf · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Thank you everyone for your help, I am going to post the solution for anyone coming from google with the same issues.

Pictures of fixed prints

First of off, The problems. Pretty much everyone one was right in some way or another.

  • Extruder was partially clogged
  • Bed was not level.
  • X-axis guide rods were not in alignment
  • Printing at too low of a tempature

    to fix this, I took a set of cheap rifle sight levels and then got the X-axis bar more level by shutting off the machine and manually rotating the Z-axis rods until the X-axis was level. once my X-axis was back in alignment, everything started to come together again. Next, I bought a set of 0.4mm drill bits and used them to clear the extruder tip by doing a cold pull, and then using the drill bit to clear out the nozzle the rest of the way. after these two major issues were out of the way. I was able to re-level the bed and crank up the printing temperature a few degrees and get a decent print again. hope this helps someone!
u/poolskooled · 1 pointr/longrange
u/AndyH13 · 1 pointr/gundeals

how precise do you think that arisaka tool is? any better or worse than this?

u/Treat_Choself · 1 pointr/ABraThatFits

The tape measure is soft, but it's one of these types:

u/kothmia · 1 pointr/orangetheory

You might take a look at getting one of the tape measures with a peg (kinda like this ) I've found that (with the exception of shoulders) it helps a TON!

I'd take the last couple of days before the end of the WLC off from OTF, to give your muscles a chance to shed the water tht they're likely retaining!

u/spitfyre · 1 pointr/femalefashionadvice

I also would get really overwhelmed whenever I shopped in person. Didn't really go away until I worked on my self-esteem issues some. Shopping online was much easier, especially once I took my measurements.

Buy a tape measure (Amazon link) and get your measurements, most clothing sites will tell you how to measure. And then just look at the website's sizing guide and pick the size that's closest to your measurements. You have a reasonably good chance of getting something that fits well by following the sizing guide and reading the reviews.

u/Fenix159 · 1 pointr/Fitness

I see Purple_Crayon pointed you to /r/loseit, you'll find a lot of support there so that's definitely a good place to be.

Far as the pictures. Basically that. You won't see huge changes daily, but if you do weekly or every other week you'll actually be able to see differences over time and it won't be nearly as demoralizing looking at daily pictures seeing very little change.

Also I'll second Purple_Crayon's recommendation of taking measurements when you take your pictures. Pick up something like MyoTape for cheap. Really makes measurements easier.

u/fifey157 · 1 pointr/PointsPlus

I use this body tape measure to do my measurements, but any simple measuring tape will work. I take measurements once a week from bust, under bust, upper arm, upper thigh, waist, hips. This article from Nerd Fitness describes taking measurements (scroll down to the Track Your Body section). Also, pictures are a great way to track progress!

u/almostelm · 1 pointr/loseit

MyoTape for sure! Sometimes your weight will plateau and that can be incredibly frustrating. However, if you have taken measurements, you can compare that and almost always you will find that you have lost inches instead. I highly recommend measuring all the basics (hips, waist, bust, thigh and bicep).

u/PoorlyDesignedRobot · 1 pointr/loseit

Nope, I spent like $6 to get the equipment to do it.

I use a tape measure and the Navy body fat calcuator. Specifically, I use this and this.

u/sacrificialPrune · 1 pointr/Fitness

Does anyone have any recommendations for a tape for measuring neck/waist circumference? I'd prefer one of the lockable ones over a standard tape measure for ease of use.

I've got one of these but because its got a self winder as soon as I unhook it to check the measurement it winds back up a few cm which obviously skews the measurement.

u/Arrested · 1 pointr/90daysgoal

Yeah, they cost ~6 bucks on amazon. Here is what I purchased for tracking my measurements.

Body Measuring Tape on Amazon

Calipers on Amazon

u/Senchal · 1 pointr/loseit

I have one where you can attach the end of it to the part that retracts, so you can measure around yourself without help. Here's one I found on Amazon.

u/rasGazoo · 1 pointr/malefashionadvice

I use this for my measurements btw, with help... actually needed to measure tonight for a question here.

u/nigelregal · 1 pointr/Fitness

I have a scale similar to that. I weighed myself for weeks everyday at same time and then multiple times a day. The body fat reading would vary day to day between 12% and 19%. Other scales might be more consistent though.

I have used the more expensive inbody ones at my gym and the hospital I work at. Those seem to be more consistent but each one gives fairly different results. For example the one at my gym typically reads me out at 13% body fat. The one at the hospital reads me out at around 16%. The difference could be that I measure at the gym at 6pm and at work i'm doing it around lunch time.

My advice is to take measurements instead using something like:

  • This
  • Or this
  • Or this

    Track it all on a spreadsheet. I have one if you want one. If you have the cash though for the scale I would just get a wireless one that transmits the data to your phone so it tracks weight and such without having to write it down (if you are lazy about that). The body fat part could just be "something interesting" to see but not something you take stock in.
u/Kittenmittons91 · 1 pointr/loseit

Measurements are so motivating! And sometimes a better metric than the scale, just because your actual weight can be influenced by so many things. I do mine once a month and they're always super encouraging. I'm down almost 20 pounds and I don't really see a difference in the mirror, but my measuring tape promises I'm getting smaller.

I got this puppy from Amazon for less than $5 shipped and it's made measuring a lot easier and more accurate.

u/rushboy99 · 1 pointr/progresspics

helps some on bad days

I have found having a sticky note countdown + full body mirror helps me want to keep going. latch on to your goal and use it like an anchor , and don't be afraid of a plateau. its basically your body redistributing fat.
most people still see inches come off the waistline and everywhere else, the scale lies during a plateau if it worries you that much, get a tape measure.

u/TMWNN · 1 pointr/amazone is half the price and is very similar. It's very convenient to use and only needs one hand to "activate" once the loop is closed.

u/LocalAmazonBot · 1 pointr/amazone

Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:



This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting).

u/reverselookup · 1 pointr/4hourbodyslowcarb

You will get some amazing results. I got this body meauring tape for my measurements (waist, chest, arms, thighs, etc). These are the metrics you will pay attention to.

Good luck my friend. I want to hear your progress.

u/joeythenaiveone · 1 pointr/loseit

If you have Amazon Prime, this is the measuring tape I have and I love it. It's cheap, ships free (with Prime) and it's easy to get consistent measurements with.

u/Panderian109 · 1 pointr/videopals

This is what I use. It tells me how much fat I have so I really know how much I'm loosing. Just be sure to do it in the morning before you eat anything and before you drink anything because the pulse will react differently if you have a different amount of water in your body. So if i do it one day right when I wake up then another day after dinner, the reading won't be accurate. I always do it in the morning. I also use one of these to measure my waist, arms, legs, neck, and chest to see where I'm loosing. I'm telling you, your mind plays all kind of weird tricks on you when you're trying to get fit because even though you're working out and eating awesome, you can still feel like nothing is working. For me, I've gotta prove it to myself. Having something to measure my health other than how I feel about myself when I look into the mirror helps.

u/guice666 · 1 pointr/Fitness

MyoTape - very useful.

And I agree.

u/skwolf522 · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

I have a tool bag for in the house. I keep all the usual items. I can take a picture of it for ya when I get home.



Out in the garage the other post got it right with the Harbor Freight tool Chests. You can't go wrong with them. They will hold up and last you forever.


You want to keep stuff off the floor so I would recommend these

they are 2 Feet deep so can hold a lot.

If you buy two you can actually fill up a whole wall.


I like these as parts organizers in my garage, Milwaukee makes good ones also. You don't want to go cheap on these, it is a bad day when you go to carry it somewhere and the latch breaks and spills out 1000 screws



I use one like this in the house to hold small parts




Now for stuff I feel will change your life.


If you do any electrical work, or for changing face plates. This screwdriver will change your life.

I saw a electrician using it and I had to go buy one.


I always have multiple sizes of these in the garage. They work great for hanging or fixing anything.


I just order Star bits instead of buying a bit set with a bunch a bits I don't use.


If you have a sawzall and some trees you need to trim these will saw through a 4 inch branch like it is butter.


These are great stud finders. They find the drywall screws that go in to the studs.

I installed 3 of these in my garage and the light output is amazing.


can't think of anything else right now.

u/themightyambassador · 1 pointr/SoCalR4R

This one, it's just magnetic and does not have adjustable electronic sensors.

u/madmax_br5 · 1 pointr/BuyItForLife

A good cordless drill should not be skimped on. Cheap versions like ryobi, harbor freight, etc have terrible battery technology, and the things don't make it past a few charge cycles. Buddy of mine bought a ryobi cordless tool set, what a pile of junk. He only did one small shelving install with it and it wouldn't take a full charge.

Things to not skimp on:

u/to_protect_the · 1 pointr/DIY

This is what I use in my old house: CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder

u/bilged · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

This magnetic stud finder works very well. It has powerful magnets that will work through thick drywall and it will last forever.

u/Mandrillsy · 1 pointr/DIY I've used this for years and will never use anything else again... yea it's just a magnet

u/theuautumnwind · 1 pointr/woodworking

Or a strong magnet would be less expensive. I have a "stud finder" that would work for less than $10

CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder

u/cbsteven · 1 pointr/homeowners

Thanks for the diagram, that's interesting.

This studfinder uses super strong magnets to detect the screws/nails, and actually sticks to them through the drywall. It's this thing. Seems to work great.. and that's the only spot it picks up any metal.

u/servohahn · 1 pointr/pics

I've had expensive and shitty stud finders before. Then I got this for 9 dollars including shipping and it made me feel like an idiot. It's 100% consistent and effective. I have no idea why this isn't the standard object that people are referring to when they're talking about stud finders. I used to get the cheap electronic ones and I'd sit there trying to confirm that I'd actually found the stud and still miss it half the time.

u/CombustibleCitrus · 1 pointr/homeowners
u/notjim · 1 pointr/DIY

How strong of a magnet are you using? If the plaster is thick, it needs to be very strong, and you need to watch very carefully (and hold it very loosely, or dangle it from a string.) I use one of these, and it just barely does it for my plaster walls, and it was a pain in the ass.

Also, are you finding multiple nails, and then connecting them vertically to find the stud? I found there was all kinds of random metal shit in my wall apparently, but the only clear vertical lines were studs. FWIW, there was not a stud by my outlet box either (I don't even wanna know how crazy the electric is in my apartment.)

The magnet ended up working for me, but next option was to remove the baseboard and see if that helped, and if not, drill little holes underneath till I found the stud. As long as you put the baseboard back on, there's no harm in it.

u/Raib314 · 1 pointr/AskReddit

This is the correct answer. You need a stud finder, to find out where the wooden beams that support your wall are. Once you know where they run, that's where you put your nails/screws. Load bearing.

u/ftpguy · 1 pointr/AskMenOver30

I got one of these from my brother in law for Christmas one year and it’s my go to stud finder now:

CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder

u/SmallVillage · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement
u/guysquatch · 1 pointr/FortCollins

> Zircon stud finder

I am a very handy person and those things suck. Get a magnetic one and use the tip about outlets and you should be good.

E: I have this one:

u/sunamonster · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

I use one of these for marking studs

Another comment said fiberglass fishing sticks, I use those extensively (cable installer) as well as using fish tape when you need something more flexible

Drilling up from the bottom is probably best, just take your time to scout out power lines and studs so you don't hit anything unexpected. Something I do whenever I cut in new outlets is cut the drywall first and stick a light in the hole, drill (everything is attics in SW Florida) and see if I can see the light. It's better to drill a couple times than cut extra holes in the drywall.

u/cartoonphysicsfool · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

Try a magnet. Itll hit on the nails or screws. Should give you a general indication of the studs.

CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder

u/hops_on_hops · 1 pointr/DIY

What sort of stud finder are you using? I've found the electronic ones to be worse than useless. A magnetic stud finder takes a little getting used to, but is reliable.

Testing for a stud requires some experience. Don't be discouraged if you mess it up a few times. I've found drilling very small holes to be the easiest way to check for a stud. Drywall dust is white on the drill bit. If you hit a stud you'll see some wood sawdust on the drill bit.

As for anchors, just consider that no matter what the weight rating says, you're anchoring into drywall and drywall is weak. Keeping one side in a stud seems like a good plan here.

Edit: nevermind, I see the stud finder in your picture. Throw that POS away. It's more of a random noise generator than a stud finder. Get one of these:

u/BeanedWeen · 1 pointr/DIY

It looks like it.

I have one of these, it has been a life saver in a house with plaster and lath.

u/teewuane · 1 pointr/homeowners

Assuming you had an inspection done you really don't have any tests to do as they all should already have been done. (Toxins in paint and such)

Locate your main water valve, main gas valve and meter, and breaker panel. Just so you know where they are. Open breaker panel, identify which breaker controls what. Hopefully they are marked.

Get a pair of bolt cutters. I've used mine many times for random jobs around the house. Speaking of tools, a basic $100 toolset comes in handy all the time and you'll never regret investing in a quality battery powered drill.

Change the code to the garage door opener.

Change locks on doors.

Take a lot of "before" pics. It's fun to look back and see how much your home has changed.

Look into rebates that are offered by your local utility companies ( electricity and gas). They'll usually give you free LED light bulbs, or great deals on random things like that. And where I live they'll even come out and do different audits for free to make sure things are running smoothly in your home.

Look into Sonic Internet in your area. I've heard good things about them lately.

Home improvement can quickly become overwhelming. Expect to get overwhelmed. Then expect to get inspired again.

Back to tools, get a quality stud finder. Not a hyped up beeping led one. Just a solid magnet one. Like this one.

Before you attempt to fix something, always just check out a video or two on YouTube. They will point out things like why you should not over tighten the bolts on your toilet. (I learned that one the hard way). Since then I always try to watch a video before fixing something. They will usually point out safety things and other "gotchas" that you should be aware of.

Can't think of much else right now. Good luck and congrats!

u/CPOx · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder

For less than $8, I really like this stud finder. And since it’s a magnet, there are no batteries to worry about for it.

u/Schneiderman · 1 pointr/AdviceAnimals

I have this one:

I like it a lot better than most electronic versions. Also, you could just buy the magnets and make one yourself.

u/physicallyuncomfort · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

I purchased this guy .. but it wasn’t of much use to me.
I’m so terrified of not cutting in between the two studs and having a huge chunk missing. Do you have any specific videos to recommend?

Thank you so much for your help!

u/ArdvarkMaster · 1 pointr/woodworking

Wall stud detectors, at least the one I have, are Neodymium magnets in plastic frame. Great at finding nails in the wall and since I already have this one, no need to purchase one. Very useful.

u/shadowthunder · 1 pointr/DIY

Patience, padawan; I'm on my flight back as I type this!

You're going to want a second pair of hands regardless to hold stuff in place while you drill and tighten. I'm not sure what they mean by "two drywalls"; it sounds as though they layered it, but to my totally unprofessional self, that sounds silly.

16" apart ("on center" is the terminology used in construction) is standard for non-load-bearing studs, but you really can't trust it. Mine ended up ranging from 14" to 28" apart. Get a studfinder and mark them out; this one is super cheap, and works very well for metal studs.

Could you link me to or post an image of your mounting bracket? The primary reason I used plywood is that the bracket I got stupidly wasn't wide-enough to span even two studs. If you can hit at least two with yours, I'd say it's safe to forgo the plywood. That's true that the plywood is only visible from the side; unfortunately, my TV location causes that to be exposed (thanks, picky roommate >_>). If that's not a concern, I see no reason not to go ham and use the plywood.

The only potential issue with using 12 toggle bolts is that you'll have twice as many holes in the drywall to patch up when you eventually move out, but that's negligible.

I'm going to non-definitively say that there's no way your studs are 1" wide. That'd break compatibility with anything intended to use the standard size for wooden studs. But hey - finding the middle of a stud is what the studfinder's for!

u/antarcticgecko · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

Magnet stud finders will never steer you wrong. Excellent little gizmo.

u/DadmiralAckbar · 1 pointr/DIY

Do yourself a solid and buy a stud finder. The magnet kind is too cheap not to. This one at Amazon is $7 and is great:

Also, it's smart to double check what your finder tells you before actually trying to screw anything. I usually use a finish nail to probe the spot and be sure that there is actually a stud where I think there is. You never know what craziness is going on behind drywall and if you were wrong, it's super easy to repair a finish nail hole.

Good luck!

u/slugbutter · 1 pointr/DIY

Not really. I have a Zircon, not sure of the model number but I'll get it to you when I get home. It's definitely the best one I've ever used, but as far as things go that's like being the smartest kid with Downs Syndrome. It's also super cheap: There's a pricier brand out there called Franklin that some people rave about but they're worthless for plaster.

u/izjustsayin · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

OMG she is sooooo cute! This pinterest may have some cool ideas for you. I think you could get away with putting shelves up, even in a rental. You'd just need to make sure you have one of these to find the studs!

u/nickstandard · 1 pointr/woodworking
  1. First off, there is a ridiculous science behind this topic, so I would do research as much as possible before takeling this. I learned from the plethora of You Tube videos from well known woodworkers and trial and error.
  2. There are many ways to do it, and this is what I have been doing and it works for me.
  3. Your first question - That all depends on how much $$ you have. For example, I do not have a lot of $, but fortunately, my basement is dryer than most. I live on a slight hill that only gets water during a hurricane (Hurricane Sandy) and my power went out so the sump pump wasn’t working. I have a nice $100 LG dehumidifier down there. Only a quarter of my walls are moisture sealed with kilz ( I built my shop prior to KILZing the walls), so the relative humidity is at constant 40-45%, which according to the chart should give me a MC of about 7-10% which is absolutely perfect in my eyes. And that is proven with a MC meter.

    General Tools MMD4E Moisture Meter, Pin Type, Digital LCD

    But this is bad if I get my wood wet (maybe over 25% MC would be considered wet). So I f I get it wet, it stays in my garage until it dips below 20%. Ambient air humidity where i live is (NE USA outside PHILA) about 15%. Once it dips below 20%, I move it into my basement. None of my projects (as of now) will be stored or placed outside. If it was an outdoor project, I would imagine outside is where I would be storing/ working on my of the projects. But since I do indoor work, I move the wood into the basement to be stored at the right time. Then when the MC gets below 10% I generally will work with it, depending on the species and my time table, and whether or not the are paying me (hahaha). Obviously, if I brought it down to the basement to quickly, that’s when problems happen.... but to me, woodworking is more about learning. how to fix your mistakes. So if there was checking or warping, knowing how to fix it, or hide it is crucial. Sometimes hiding a mistake can make the workpiece even better. Bear in mind, that I do not have a big basement so I do not work with big pieces. Big pieces I would imagine are harder to maintain and harder to hide mistakes.

  4. In a perfect world, you would store the wood in the place the workpiece we placed for the rest of its life, but that could be years of storage and it impractical. The general rule of thumb is 1 year for every inch of thickness, but I have gotten them dryer, quicker than this rule and some experts will tell you that this rule is also fubar. If I was working with an expensive species, and do want to take any risks, then I would live by this rule in order to not make the slab go to waste. But I am not confident enough yet to handle that type of project without error, and I don’t have the $ to buy them yet. Generally speaking, once the species it at the proper MC (I would say 5%-8%, it ain’t moving, and you can work with it. I would assume most houses with air conditioning in the summer should be below 10% humidity.

  5. Then there comes a whole other science of finishing, which is an animal in itself, I am in the middle of self teaching. I wouldn’t be a good person to tell you about finishing yet, so don’t ask... but I know if finished correctly, there should be minimal moisture exchange as the right finish should create a wall between the wood and the atmosphere, which will not allow the exchange. I could tell you what I use to prevent this (finish wise) but I do not know what kind of species you are working with nor the RAH of where you are and the RAH of where the project will be. And even if I did, I wouldn’t be a great source.

    I have an ongoing set of playlists on my YouTube that has helped me, one is one wood drying. If I remember led to save the video to this playlist after I watched it, then the good information is stored there...

    Here is the link...

    Feel free to check out the rest of the playlists. I am still in an ongoing process of adding to them.

    BTW - you will never get the MC to 0% with standard drying techniques. As long as earth has an atmosphere and there are oceans, there will be MC in wood. this to me seems completely unnecessary and impractical, although I am sure someone will argue with that cause woodworking is very dynamic and full of opinions! Hope this helps!!
u/ihitrecord · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

In the basement? Something like this.

In the wood? This.

If your basement is constantly humid, plumb in a dehumidifier. However, in doing that, you may want to wait for it to stabilize and then re-acclimate the wood.

Yeah, sorry, no good news from me.

u/compulsivehobbyist · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

Hopefully just bad workmanship. Might be worth picking up a moisture meter to verify that you don't have water getting in through the roof/attic

General Tools MMD4E Moisture Meter, Pin Type, Digital LCD

u/Certain_Concept · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

You may want to buy a mousture sensor.

General Tools MMD4E Moisture Meter, Pin Type, Digital LCD

I have the same ceiling/texture. I have a big water spot from a fixed roof leak. While it was leaking it didnt necessarily feel moist but the meter was a good way to check.

u/megamanxoxo · 1 pointr/RealEstate
u/permacahill · 1 pointr/woodstoving
u/arizona-lad · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

I think you have a leak within the wall. You need to verify it, though. Pick up a budget moisture meter:

Then you'll know for sure.

u/coletain · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

Hit any particularly high spots of glue with a belt sander. No need for the cement if you are doing a wood floor as long as the subfloor is reasonably level. Use whatever underlayment system your flooring calls for, but its usually a felt paper or silicone vapor shield. The underlayment will take care of any minor imperfections in the floor.

Before you put down the flooring, buy a moisture meter and check the subfloor is dried out. The cheap ones are fine for this, you aren't really looking for a specific % you just want to measure every day or so and when the % stops going down you are good.

u/happyscrappy · 1 pointr/worldnews

I dunno, I don't think the US would care if it violated any treaty, given the current US position on landmines.

But again this doesn't stop people it just slows them down. Landmine detectors are trivial to make. Hell, just put this on a pole:

If you aren't there to stop people, they'll still get through, it'll just take a bit longer and maybe cost more. It's how walls work, it's how building security works, it's how safes work.

u/ickis · 1 pointr/AutoCAD

Are there any particular measuring tools you recommend, aside from a good set of calipers, a solid ruler, and a gap gauge?

I'm thinking about grabbing this to help with figuring out angles on objects.

u/chicken_herder · 1 pointr/DIY

I think there's a really high chance that your miter saw isn't doing the angle you think it is, which is just a function of tools not being perfect. It could also be that your window trim isn't dead on 45 degrees. I would recommend trying something like this:

Set your miter saw to the angle based on an external tool, not the fence (unless you know for a fact your fence is dead nuts accurate). I had a huge problem doing this with some trim work until I started using an external guide instead of assuming the fence was right.

u/GideonD · 1 pointr/DIY

Definitely go with the pine over the MDF. That stuff is just junk. Mitering baseboard can be a pain because your walls are seldom ever square. You need to learn how to cope the corners in if you want to have the best looking job. That said, you can indeed use the squared stock with butt joints. Just be aware that if the corners are not square you may still get some gaping. I'd invest in a digital angle finder gauge. to get an accurate measurement of the inside angle. Then you can get a better miter or butt joint. The problem with the square stock is that it's a dust collector since it's just a flat top. You can stack a molding on top of it later though if you decided it just isn't working to make it look more like a traditional baseboard. Squared trim will be a more modern or contemporary look compared to the colonial style trim to linked to.

u/longagofaraway · 1 pointr/DIY

square posts are "traditional" for picket fences but it's easily doable w/ round posts and/or rails. just use google images and you'll see there are infinite variations in design. you can buy pre-drilled fence posts at most big box stores or buy a hole cutter and make your own.

to do mitres for square posts hold your rail up to the post and use an angle finder to find the proper cut.

this is intro to carpentry stuff. is this your first diy project?

u/oldneckbeard · 1 pointr/woodworking

I will say that he's going to be limited with that workspace, but he can get by with some basic stuff. I also have extremely limited space. I have an outdoor shop space, but since it's not insulated and has no power, I'm very limited in what I can do.

However, here's a good list of things to get.

  1. Corded circular saw. I highly recommend this makita saw, it's a good value.
  2. Metal-body combination square
  3. Basic chisels
  4. Workbench with clamps
  5. Pull-cut dovetail saw -- can also be used for most short-depth cutting work. I use it to cut (or clean up) tenons as well
  6. Glue. Lots of glue. I like Titebond II for not particular reason.
  7. As many clamps as your remaining budget can afford. These irwin ones are always popular, work well, and are cheap enough.

    Keep in mind that father's day is coming up soon, and tools like these are popular things to be put on sale. Keep your eyes open :)

u/cadandcookies · 1 pointr/FTC

What kind of experience are you guys coming into this with?

Do you have mentors/are you yourselves familiar with the use and safety precautions necessary around power tools?

What kind of space are you in? Do you have a dedicated space to use or do you need to move things in and out of an area every meeting?

How much do you want to learn? Are you planning on using primarily Matrix/Tetrix this season or do you want to do custom fabrication?

If you're planning on using chain, I'd recommend getting at least one of these (Dark Soul #25 chain tool). You won't need to use master links again, and they're just in general great to have around.

I would definitely recommend getting Anderson Powerpole tools and items. Definitely get a TriCrimp and associated wire, connectors, and contacts, if you don't have them already.

I'd also recommend a few tools that come in useful just in general when it comes to FTC-- a good adjustable wrench is good to have around, whether you're doing custom or not. A ratcheting screwdriver is also good to have around, in addition to more standard versions. I'd also recommend my personal favorite allen wrenches (you can get just metric or standard sets, but I linked the paired version). For taking care of stuck bolts or anything else stuck, a good pair of locking pliers are also great. Also getting some good pliers for all your electrical needs is a good idea. Also extremely useful is a good square. On a similar note, a level is good for checking whether you actually bolted that part on straight.

You should also get a general set of combo wrenches and some of the specific sizes most common for FTC. Pretty much any reputable brand is fine for this-- don't spend more than about $50 for a set and $10 for an individual wrench (honestly, that would be super high, you should probably target half of that). A decent ratchet set is also good, but not absolutely essential.

Other good things to have around are a heat gun or heat bar (for doing custom plastic parts for your robot). You can do some great stuff with some creativity and some sheet polycarbonate.

To go with that, a vinyl cutter is great for doing sponsor decals and general cool stuff.

As far as "essentials" go, that depends on where you want to go. If you want to do lots of custom work-- or use something like 80/20, then you'll want some other tools to do that work. A good power drill is absolutely essential, and if you have the space, I'd definitely recommend getting a solid miter saw and an aluminum cutting blade (I know some people consider them too dangerous, but with proper safety training and precautions, I've never had a student or mentor get injured with one).

As far as materials for doing custom work go, I'd recommend getting some box aluminum (1x1 and 1x2) tubing, 1/8" and 1/16" polycarbonate (I'm partial to the dark tinted stuff, but it's a bit more expensive), and a full assortment of #6 and maybe #8 hardware. You'll also want some M3 screws for face mounting AndyMark and REV robotics motors. I like to use Copper State for this, because while they have a totally garbage web ordering system, their prices are great, and their website isn't that bad (to be honest, I'm a bit spoiled by McMaster-Carr).

You probably don't need me to tell you what kind of COTS parts might be good (if that's within the scope of this money). Electronics, good phones (not those stupid ZTEs), motors, are all good.

You'll notice that I'm not suggesting the very budget stuff-- while you can go that direction if you need to, quality tools help you get quality results. If you have the money to get and use the right tools for the job, I always recommend doing that as opposed to cheaping out with something you'll just end up breaking and messing up your robot with later.

A decent chunk of the tools I linked are suggested by my personal favorite review site, The WireCutter/SweetHome. I've used the majority of them, and my experience has been good enough that I don't have an issue recommending their suggestions for other tools relevant to FTC.

Hopefully that was somewhat helpful. I'd definitely consider the answers to the questions at the top-- they can help you narrow down what will actually be useful for you. I can definitely give more specific suggestions if you know what direction you're taking with robot building techniques and how much space you have/ whether you have to move.

u/amcgavisk · 1 pointr/foamcore

This is what I have been using and it is great - perfect 90 degree corners and straight lines

u/mikerooooose · 1 pointr/gardening

I measured/marked the holes using a combination square. Then I drilled 5/8 holes in opposite corners cut area. Then I used a cheap ($20) electric jig saw to cut out the area as best as possible. I would follow the lines on one side, then flip it over and cut it again. The jig saw blade bends so it cuts on an angle. Finally, I used a chisel to remove excess material and clean up the holes and straighten them out.

Combination Square

1" Chisel (or you can get a set of three for a little more)


Jig Saw

u/unfathomableocelot · 1 pointr/woodworking

What are you going to use the #4 plane for? Planing without a solid workbench and vise/hold downs is a chore. Perhaps a block plane or even sandpaper would be enough to get you started?

Square - get the Irwin combo, it's accurate enough for casual use.

That stone is too coarse for woodworking tools. Either use sandpaper like others have suggested, or get the King 1000/6000

I would argue that the chisels, while crappy, will make good sharpening practice. Or get the $5 Harbor Freight ones and sharpen them every 5 minutes - at least you'll become a sharpening expert fast.

u/RenegadeX21 · 0 pointsr/cade

You might benefit from using one of these.

The right side of the bezel looks like it is cutting off part of the screen (vis: barrels).
That said, it looks great! Love the metal accents. T-molding & Paint will really make it look great.

Consider making something to fill in the gap on the top. As others have mentioned, a marquee might/speakers (speaking of, where is sound coming from, now?) would be a good choice.

u/7zf · 0 pointsr/soylent

How about, hold everything else constant like exercise routine and sleep patterns etc. Take fat caliper and tape measurements and post before/after measurements?

Challenge would be to lose x% bodyfat or y total inches.

u/Pastafarian75 · 0 pointsr/AdamCarolla

I swear by this one. It hasn't failed me yet.

u/catherder9000 · 0 pointsr/videos
u/Gqueue · 0 pointsr/HomeImprovement

I use a Franklin

Which is very similar. Best and easiest stud finder I've ever used.

Only problem is that it is always going off whenever I walk by. :). Lol.