Best mechanical control cables & accessories according to redditors

These?

In order to keep the ac from sliding out or being removed from the outside, place a board under the unit on the inside window sill, 2-3 inches wider than the ac on each side, that will allow it to sit at a slightly downward angle going out, and screw the board down with 2 screws on either side of the unit into the window sill. Then use a small corner bracket, with one screw into the board, and another into the ac, on both sides of the ac, with a wood screw into wood, and a metal screw into the base of the ac, much like the ones pictured. You can place the board under the ac in the proper position, with the corner brackets, and mark it with a magic marker, so that the board and bracket can be attached to the ac while on the floor, and then placed back on top of the sill, if drilling into the side of the ac-bracket is made impossible by its windowed location. If the ac is screwed into place and made very secure by this method, the outside shelf may become unnecessary. You be the judge. You can also use 2 brackets per side. I sure as hell hope that makes sense. I'm exhausted. Good luck.

edit; drilling a small hole in the metal side at the base of the ac for the machine screw and bracket will be necessary. You’ll need no more than a 1/2” screw.

Something like these? Edit; that was my first google hit, pretty sure any place like home depot has a selection on the shelves.

Here you go! This looks to be very close.

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Plastic-Furniture-Bracket-Fastener/dp/B015GOO98I

A kreg jig would work, but is probably overkill. You could just use simple 90 degree brackets like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Shelf-Degree-Holes-Corner-Brackets/dp/B00EZDO2Q6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1420161158&sr=8-5&keywords=90+degree+brackets

Two of those on each end of the shelf should be fine. Add one more in the middle if you want to go crazy.

Of course I am never one to discourage buying a cool new tool, so get the Keg jig if you want it, but those will work just as well.

here are some I bought from Amazon, took about a week to ship.

1600pcs Insulating Fiber Washer Spacer 2mmx4mmx0.3mm for Motherboard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TX5P3OG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_r-PuDbQQ5GXZJ

Ideally you should use washers like these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TX5P3OG/?cv_ct_id=amzn1.idea.3SOU44Y162SAB&cv_ct_pg=storefront&cv_ct_wn=aip-storefront&ref=exp_cov_taehatypes_lv_dp_vv_d

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However you can just use a thin piece of electrical tape to cover whatever contacts the screws were touching.

I've done this many times. Here's how I do it.

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- Masonry bit is best but, as others have said, any bit will work with stucco.

- DO NOT drill the stucco from the inside, out. You will blow out the stucco on the other side.

Instead, put a low voltage box where you want your cable to be on the inside of the house.

here is what they look like.

https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C5CHFA_enUS768US768&q=low+voltage+box&tbm=isch&source=univ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwisgbGXjdjgAhUmZN8KHdALDS4QsAR6BAgDEAE&biw=1440&bih=766&dpr=2

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The square hole you cut for the box will be big enough for you to see through. drill a small pilot hole to the outside. When you just barely break through, stop, go outside and drill the rest from the outside.

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You can then attach the cable and finish the low voltage box with one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Legrand-Q-WP2009LAV1-Wallplate-Almond/dp/B00E1ZPEDS/ref=sr_1_8?qid=1551139633&refinements=p_n_feature_two_browse-bin%3A6426192011&s=lamps-light&sr=1-8

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- Use one of these on the outside hole and fill the rim with silicone caulk to waterproof it.

https://www.amazon.com/Coaxial-Cable-Bushing-Single-Speaker/dp/B00UD6AM7W

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- Make sure top put a drip loop on the outside. It will prevent water from following the coax into your wall.

here is what a drip loop looks like

https://www.google.com/search?q=coax+drip+loop&rlz=1C5CHFA_enUS768US768&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj7p4unjNjgAhUnhOAKHRVjB1QQ_AUIDygC&biw=1440&bih=766&dpr=2

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Uxcell produces high quality stuff in general, and their washers are made specifically for PCBs. Here's a link to ones I purchased that worked perfectly with GMK screwn-in stabilizers.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TX5P3OG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apap_2Bc7itOsKNMIl

You want this or something like it

Looks eerily familiar: http://imgur.com/MWZAKmU

I don't think they are used on the link the OP posted, but the cords at the bottom are held in place by Amico cable glands, size PG7 and PG9. http://www.amazon.com/Amico-Plastic-Waterproof-Glands-Joints/dp/B005FIWYX8

It was a fun project, but I would probably just buy a Johnson controller next time.

Oh that kind. I get you now.

Those don't come with it - he lists the kinda stuff he uses on his amazon list.

It's not usually a problem, since the screw doesn't short stuff out that often. Only on some PCBs, in certain places. But as a pleb who doesn't want to buy special parts, I just use a little patch of electrical tape.

I drilled, then used cable glands: http://amzn.to/1rXpLU6. I did put a dab of lap sealant for extra assurance, like wearing a belt AND suspenders!

If you're in North America (or at least USA), you'll have to figure out the diameter of your cable with this chart: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge#Tables_of_AWG_wire_sizes. Then match the diameter with the PG cable gland size with this chart: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge#Tables_of_AWG_wire_sizes. (I tried to find a chart with everything in one place but failed.)

If I have a Hero5 Session how can I charge it and it be waterproof. I need to leave it outside for a timelapse that is going to last for 8 hours. I was thinking about buying this and these to make a waterproof case. The external battery wouldn't run it as long as I need it for, but the case is large enough to connect the charger inside it. I would do something similar to this

You want something like this

http://www.amazon.com/Black-Plastic-Waterproof-Glands-Joints/dp/B005FIWYX8

I haven't run my cable for my house batteries yet, but if there is no adequately placed hole you could drill a hole the size you need and use a gland nut. Make sure to seal the edges of the hole with paint to prevent rust. The gland nut will prevent water from entering the van through that hole.

Hope this helps. I'll be running my cable underneath the van and bringing it in through the large surround on the gas filler neck.

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Plastic-Waterproof-Glands-Joints/dp/B005FIWYX8
-these probably aren't the right size but an idea of what they look like and what they do