Best music recording equipment according to redditors

We found 14,093 Reddit comments discussing the best music recording equipment. We ranked the 3,053 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Subcategories:

Computer recording equipment
Mixers & Accessories
Recording headphone & in-ear audio monitors
Studio audio monitors
Studio subwoofers
Mastering recorders
Studio multitrack recorders
Recording signal processors
Power conditioners
Recording studio environment equipment
Portable studio recorders
Microphones

Top Reddit comments about Music Recording Equipment:

u/alexsgocart · 398 pointsr/DIY

I have always wanted to have a "smart" radio. My parents have always owned various Pioneer, Kenwood, and Sony radio decks, but they always had their cons to them (clunky OS, different type of touch screens that suck, lack of features, very expensive $800-$2000), useless features, etc.). I wanted something that runs Android 6.0+. I thought about using iPads, but I didn't want to waste a bunch of money for something that is going to be used in my car only. I wanted a budget friendly "smart" radio. That is when I found the perfect tablet, the Nexus 7 2013. Cheap, powerful, Android 6, compact, somewhat thin and small, and best part, it fits in a double-din radio deck.

After finding various projects that people have used, I decided to order a bunch of stuff from Amazon (everything was bought with Prime) and see if I could get this to work. It took about 3 weeks to work out all the bugs, but it runs perfect now. I never found anyone that did this mod in a Nissan Pathfinder, so that was difficult going on my own, reading various wiring diagrams and getting power, sound and steering wheel controls to work. After lots of testing each wire, and lots of trial and errors, everything is working how I want it too.

Questions that people have asked me that I can remember on the top of my head:


Q: How do you turn the tablet on and off if the power button is blocked?

A: Easy, with Timur's Kernel, and the USB car charger hooked up to the accessory power, when I turn my key on/start my car, the tablet detects power from the USB, which wakes the screen/powers on. (ELI5: there are 2 power sources in your radio, a constant 12 volt power, and an accessory key power. So when you turn the key to ACC or ON, it gives power to the tablet, but when you turn the key off, it takes away power from the USB port.)

Q: How does it hold up in the wonderful California heat?

A: Shockingly very well. It hasn't given me any issues in ~95F (+35C) degree weather. There was a day where it was 115F (46C) degrees outside, and that is when the tablet finally said NOPE and started locking up and freezing due to the ridiculous heat. After running my AC for a few minutes, it cooled the tablet down to reasonable temperature and ran normally again. When my car is parked, I have a windshield sun shade that helps a ton with keeping the sun off my black/gray dash, and/or microfiber towels over the screen to keep the sun off. If it's super hot, I just take the tablet/radio/air conditioner part out of my car and bring it inside (not that hard to remove).

Q: How do you control the volume?

A: With the JoyCon EXC, it translates either CAN, IBUS, resistive, or digital steering wheel control signals, to USB keyboard signals that the tablet can see. I have the Joycon setup to have Volume UP/DOWN, Screen ON/OFF, PAUSE/PLAY, and PREVIOUS/NEXT. Click here for more information.

Q: How do you listen to the radio/music?

A: Spotify Premium. While I can spend ~$10 on a radio antenna to USB to listen to over-the-air radio stations, I never listen to the radio. When I had my old stock radio, I never listened to the radio part. I always used my 3.5mm jack to plug in my phone for Spotify. Great perk about being a broke college student is getting 50% off Spotify Premium.

Q: Can you/do you watch TV or movies on it while you drive?

A: I can, but I don't. Pay attention to the freakin' road.

Q: How do you get internet on it since it's a WiFi version?

A: I use my Bluetooth hotspot on my phone to get internet for Waze, Google Maps, etc. I can also use the WiFi hotspot, but that uses more power. I can drive from California to Idaho running Waze the whole way and it uses about ~300MB of data.

Q: Can you make phone calls with it?

A: This has been something I have been trying, but have not had success with yet. I use an app called [TabletTalk] (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.apdroid.tabtalk&hl=en), but it doesn't push the microphone/sound through the tablet. I gave up on this since I have a Samsung Gear 2 Neo smartwatch that has a microphone/speaker on it. Some day I will explore with this more.

Q: How do you power your speakers if you removed the radio?

A: I lucked out big time with this issue because my Nissan Pathfinder has the Bose System built in. That means that there's an amplifier already installed that powers the speakers. So the tablet sends the sound to the Behringer UCA202 DAC, that then converts to a 3.5mm headphone jack that then splits into the Left Front/Rear, Right Front/Rear, and dual subwoofer channels that go to the car wiring harness that then goes to the amp. This saves me hundreds of dollars. For vehicles without a stock amplifier that rely on the radio for power, that is when you will need to buy an amplifier to power the speakers. My 12 inch subwoofer also plugs into the DAC and works perfectly.

Q: I see the reverse camera, how did you get that to work with the tablet? How does the tablet know when you are in reverse?

A: There were 2 ways to get this to work, one way is by video detection, or the other way is by the JoyCon EXC. I chose to do the video detection way because it was simpler and waiting about one second for the app to open was fine with me. I use an app called EasyCap viewer.

Q: Why is there paper over the JoyCon, EasyCap, USB charger etc.?

A: The plastic pieces over the EasyCap and USB charger were bulky/broken. The JoyCon didn't come with a cover. Paper was the easiest/closest thing I had at the moment. If only I had a 3D printer. Someday..

Q: Why is the mic in the vent and not somewhere else? Doesn't the wind from the HVAC cause problems?

A: It was a last-second add-on and just put it in there without having to rewire the harness. I also didn't know where to move it that made it look "stock". I've gotten some great opinions on where to move it! Thanks for those!

I'll add more common questions here when I think of them.

Breakdown of Parts:



Price | Part
---|---
$100 | Nexus 7 2013 32GB WiFi (flo) (bought from /r/hardwareswap)
$5 | Nissan Radio Wiring Harness
$6 | AmazonBasics 4-Port USB 2.0 Hub
$20 | Esky EC135-05 Rearview Camera
$95 | JoyCon EXC
$7 | Tendak OTG USB cable
$30 | Behringer UCA202
$7 | VideoSecu Amplified CCTV Microphone
$25 | Timur's Kernel v4.0 for Nexus 7 2013
$10 | Maxboost Car Charger
Free/Other/Already owned | EasyCap USB Video Capture Card, RCA cables, 3.5mm audio cables, USB cables, 12-16 AWG wire, grinder, zipties, paper, hotglue, other random stuff.
TOTAL COST | ~$305

TL;DR: Modified my Android tablet to work as a replacement for my radio. Worth it? YES. Best Radio Ever.

Have Questions? Ask away. Since I had to learn most this crap on my own, I can share my experience with others and give pointers in the right direction.

EDIT #1: Formatting.

EDIT #2: RIP my inbox. I would never have guessed this would get this popular. I'm just speechless. Wow. Thanks everyone! Trying my best to reply to everyone! Also added another question to this.

u/PGleo86 · 221 pointsr/AdviceAnimals

If it makes you feel better, you can get better-sounding headphones than Bose for less money. The Audio-Technica ATH-M40X should blow anything Bose below $300 out of the water for just under $100, and if your budget is closer to $50 you can often find Sennheiser HD558s for around $50-60. The more you know!

u/lpmagic · 122 pointsr/buildapc

these:

https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATH-M40x-Professional-Monitor-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR54

u/CantDoWhatIDo · 61 pointsr/buildapcsales

This mic was probably my favorite purchase. Friends comment that the voice quality is stunning. I would recommend getting the Neewer mount for about 15 dollars if you're on a budget, this mic does pick up a lot of vibrations with the table stand it comes with. Also, purchase a metal 5/8 to 3/8 mic adapter if you do order the Neewer mount, the plastic one that comes with the Neewer mount is a piece of shit whose threads strip like nobody's business.

Edit: provided links

Link to Neewer Scissor Mount $12.50

Link to 5/8 adapter $4.95

Link to Rode PSA1 Mount if you have money to spend $98.79

EDIT 2: u/Mebbwebb stated the Neewer mount might not come with the tightening knob for the Mic. In that case you would have to use a wrench to tighten the mount where the Mic attaches to the arm. The Neewer mount I have has a tightening knob. He has linked an offer that includes a tightening knob plus the mount he linked is cheaper and comes with a free Google Cardboard promotion.

LINK TO THE MOUNT WITH GOOGLE CARDBOARD OFFER

u/Mastagon · 59 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

I'm putting this here because I don't want to flood the main sub with what I'm able to find. So here goes:

Headphones| Price
:--|:--
[ATH-M50x Headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/Audio-Technica-ATH-M50x-Professional-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR86/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499757226&sr=1-1&keywords=headphones) |$150 in cart. $250-$300 everywhere else I check
[Sennhieser HD 598 SR Headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/Sennheiser-HD-598-SR-Open-Back/dp/B06WRMZZ45/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499757356&sr=1-1&keywords=hd+598) |$109 Record low
[Audio-Technica ATH-M40x Headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/Audio-Technica-ATH-M40x-Professional-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR54/ref=sr_1_6?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499758834&sr=1-6&keywords=bose) |$180 - $38 = $141
[August EP650-Bluetooth headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/August-EP650-Bluetooth-Wireless-Headphones-Leather/dp/B00F54Y6GU/ref=sr_1_2?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499759484&sr=1-2&keywords=headphones)| Was $99, now $58
[August EP640 Bluetooth Headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/August-EP640-Rechargeable-built-Smartphones/dp/B00MHOFR78/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499772544) |was $80, now $37
[Prime Day Bluedio T2S Headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/Bluedio-Shooting-Bluetooth-headphones-wireless/dp/B00Q2VIW9M/ref=sr_1_4?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499759635&sr=1-4&keywords=bluetooth) | Was $20, $21 in cart no tax
Prime Day Bluedio V Headphones | was $200, $140 in cart no tax
[AUSDOM ANC 7 Bluetooth noise cancelling] (https://www.amazon.ca/Cancelling-Headphones-AUSDOM-Bluetooth-Comfortable/dp/B01LZ7Q5R1/ref=sr_1_4?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499808109&sr=1-4&keywords=aptx) | was $100, now $50. Well reviewed!
[Sony Extra bass bluetooth headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/Sony-MDRXB950B1-Extra-Headphone-Model/dp/B01N5UVZBP) | was $200, now $99


Earbuds| Price
:--|:--
[Aukey Arcs Bluetooth Sport] (https://www.amazon.ca/AUKEY-Bluetooth-Headphones-Microphone-Sweatproof/dp/B01EWUP4NQ/ref=sr_1_4?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499804815&sr=1-4&keywords=headphones)| was $24, now $14
[1MORE Triple Driver earbuds] (https://www.amazon.ca/1MORE-Headphones-Earphones-Compatible-Microphone/dp/B01KB9K9Z0/ref=lp_17037466011_1_4?srs=17037466011&ie=UTF8&qid=1499766067&sr=8-4&th=1) | Was $131, $106 in cart

Bluetooth misc| Price
:--|:--
[Anker Premium Stereo Bluetooth 4.0 Speaker ] (https://www.amazon.ca/Anker-Bluetooth-Subwoofers-Portable-Wireless/dp/B0107WH8Q4/ref=sr_1_6?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499800448&sr=1-6&keywords=subwoofer) | was $130, now $60
[Trond bluetooth receiver] (https://www.amazon.ca/TROND-Bluetooth-Receiver-Headphones-Speakers/dp/B01M9I0LSK/) | Was $25, now $20. I have one its awesome
[Altman Bluetooth Transmitter/receiver] (https://www.amazon.ca/ALTMAN-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Receiver-Wireless/dp/B06Y25PGBG/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499803431&sr=1-1&keywords=aptx) |was $43, now $26



CPU Coolers| Price
:--|:--
[CORSAIR Hydro Series H100i v2 Extreme ] (https://www.amazon.ca/CORSAIR-Extreme-Performance-Liquid-CW-9060025-WW/dp/B019EXSSBG/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499757440&sr=1-1&keywords=corsair) |$110. Historic [all time low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/CrDzK8/corsair-cpu-cooler-cw9060025ww)
[Corsair Hydro Series H115i Extreme Performance] (https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-Extreme-Performance-Liquid-CW-9060027-WW/dp/B019955RNQ/ref=sr_1_3?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499756838&sr=1-3&keywords=corsair) |$155 (temporarily out of stock)
[MasterLiquid Pro 240 All-In-One] (https://www.amazon.ca/MasterLiquid-Technology-Chamber-MasterFan-Radiator/dp/B01E5XNP5Y/ref=lp_16927652011_1_24?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1499766384&sr=1-24) | was $140, now $95 [Historic low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/sqmxFT/cooler-master-cpu-cooler-mlyd24ma20mbr1)

PSU| Price
:--|:--
[Corsair CS650M] (https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-Modular-Efficient-Supply-CS650M/dp/B00GH9NA2I/ref=sr_1_11?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499757999&sr=1-11&keywords=corsair) |$110. Not the lowest but okay
[EVGA SuperNOVA 550 G3] (https://www.amazon.ca/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Warranty-220-G3-0550-Y1/dp/B01LWTS2UL/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499759891&sr=1-1&keywords=evga)| Was $130, now $99 [historic low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/sMM323/evga-supernova-g3-550w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-220-g3-0550)

Cases| Price
:--|:--
[Corsair 780T full atx case] (https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-Graphite-780T-Full-Tower/dp/B00LA6POK4) | $189 in cart. Not an [all time low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/sNJwrH/corsair-case-cc9011063ww) but not bad
[Corsair Carbide 400C white] (https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-CC-9011095-WW-Carbide-Compact-Mid-Tower/dp/B01F97W9ZM/ref=sr_1_12?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499813131&sr=1-12&keywords=corsair) |$105 in cart

HDD| Price
:--|:--
[Seagate Backup Plus Hub 8TB] (https://www.amazon.ca/Seagate-External-Desktop-Storage-STEL8000100/dp/B01HD6ZLQ6/ref=sr_1_3?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499758359&sr=1-3&keywords=hdd) | $270 - 51 = $219
[Seagate 4TB BarraCuda Pro ] (https://www.amazon.ca/Seagate-BarraCuda-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST4000DM006/dp/B01MSW4MNS/ref=sr_1_4?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499758359&sr=1-4&keywords=hdd)|$245-75 = $170 [Historic low!] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/qRtWGX/seagate-barracuda-pro-4tb-35-7200rpm-internal-hard-drive-st4000dm006)
[Seagate Backup Plus 4TB Portable] (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0196J43TE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&psc=1) | Was $160, now $135 [all time low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/NyQRsY/seagate-backup-plus-4tb-external-hard-drive-stdr4000100)
[Seagate Firecuda 2TB] (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01M1NHCZT/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)| was $126, now $85 [Historic low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/zk7CmG/seagate-firecuda-2tb-25-5400rpm-internal-hard-drive-st2000lx001)
[Seagate Firecuda 1TB] (https://www.amazon.ca/Seagate-Firecuda-2-5-Inch-Internal-ST1000LX015/dp/B01LWRTRZU/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499767750&sr=1-1&keywords=ssd) | was $83, now $60 [Historic low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/w6x9TW/seagate-firecuda-1tb-25-5400rpm-hybrid-internal-hard-drive-st1000lx015)

Input Devices| Price
:--|:--
[Logitech G13 input pad] (https://www.amazon.ca/Logitech-G13-Programmable-Gameboard-Display/dp/B001NEK2GE/ref=sr_1_21?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499761901&sr=1-21&keywords=board+games) | Was $75, now $55 [Historic Low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/jbvZxr/logitech-keyboard-920000946)
[Corsair Gaming K70 LUX RGB MX Brown] (https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-Gaming-Mechanical-Keyboard-Backlit/dp/B01ER4B7YM/ref=sr_1_6?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499770080&) | was $180, now $160 [Historic low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/34M323/corsair-k70-lux-rgb-wired-gaming-keyboard-ch-9101012-na)


Networking| Price
:--|:--
[NETGEAR Nighthawk X8 AC5300 Router] (https://www.amazon.ca/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-Tri-Band-Quad-Stream-R8500-100CNS/dp/B01A85Y9TE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499760240&sr=8-1&keywords=NETGEAR+Nighthawk+X8+AC5300)| was $499, now $290
[TP-Link AC3200 Tri band router] (https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-Tri-Band-Beamforming-Archer-C3200/dp/B00YY3XSSA/ref=sr_1_3?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499760450&sr=1-3&keywords=modem) | Was $249, now $175
[Netgear 16-Port Gigabit Switch] (https://www.amazon.ca/Netgear-16-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Desktop/dp/B01AX8XHRQ/ref=sr_1_6?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499760948&sr=1-6&keywords=ethernet) | Was $106, now $75 in cart

MISC| Price
:--|:--
[Logitech C922x Webcam] (https://www.amazon.ca/Logitech-Stream-Webcam-Streaming-960-001176/dp/B01LXCDPPK/ref=sr_1_5?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499760799&sr=1-5&keywords=computer) | was $130, now $89. All time low
[Acer KG251Q 1080p Freesync monitor] (https://www.amazon.ca/Acer-KG251Q-bmiix-FREESYNC-Technology/dp/B06X6HJ1SF/ref=sr_1_6?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499762804&sr=1-6&keywords=monitor) | Was $230, now $170
[M9S PRO android tv box] (https://www.amazon.ca/Leelbox-M9S-Pro-Android-6-0/dp/B01MD0NZPK/ref=sr_1_2?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499767387) | Was $130, $98 in cart
[Cyberpower 600w UPS] (https://www.amazon.ca/CyberPower-CP1000PFCLCD-Sinewave-Compatible-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N192/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499803529&sr=1-1&keywords=ups) | was $224, now $125


I'll try to keep tabs on everything but let me know if there are any errors or price updates. And as a side note, I'm actually getting downvotes for this? I can't see how there could possibly be a sane explanation for that.

 

EDIT: Updated 7:00pm EST!! Let me know if there's anything you see and I'll put it in here!

 

EDIT: I've put everything new as of Jan 11, 4:00pm in bold. Also, check this post on RedFlagDeals for a great big list of deal

 

EDIT: Its all over everyhone. Hope you snagged something cool beyond bitter disappointment this year!**


 

u/puppetmaster2501 · 36 pointsr/buildapc

A good headphone stand:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MCVOILM/

A cool glass/metal stand thing to put under your tower or monitor:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AJHCQD8/

A big long mouse+keyboard pad that like a rug, ties your whole desk together:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N0LDFR8/

A cool scissor arm to hold & move your microphone:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DY1F2CS/




For things that are more significant than accessories: Get some active studio monitor speakers, a nice dac/pre-amp/mixer, a mechanical or electrostatic-capacitive keyboard, a REALLY nice office chair, and stuff like that. A good battlestation is about a lot more than a big monitor, cool case, and some good processing power.

u/csm725 · 25 pointsr/buildapc

All these recommendations of Logitech and Corsair (and Altec, etc.) speakers on what claims to be a knowledgeable forum really hurts, guys. You wouldn't recommend a $100 Logitech keyboard over a CM Storm, so don't do the same here.

Now to answer your question, OP:

A Xonar DG and M Audio AV40s will be a killer combo for a nice clear sound that extends into low frequencies very well for the price (great bass). I highly recommend it. Now a sound card isn't necessary, per se - you will have audio without it; but the improvement from onboard to a cheap sound card is immense. Go for it! I've recommended this setup to tens of people, and I used it myself until I upgraded my sound card, and it's really amazing bang for the buck and sound.

Hope this gets to you :)

u/thePhysicist8 · 24 pointsr/pcgaming

Fear not, for you can still enjoy the wonders of surround sound with Hi-Fi headphones. Most "gaming" headsets use a built-in DAC (and BS marketing magic) to emulate surround sound over stereo. You can do the same thing using Razer Surround or similar software for free.

You'll have to decide between a closed or open earcup design. If you're not already familiar: a closed-back design will give you better noise isolation and more bass response, while an open-back design will give you a wider soundstage and better positional accuracy. 95% of headphones are closed-back, but there are some nice open-back options in your price range.

The Audio-Technica ATH-M40x ($100) are a decent option. They're durable, portable, closed-back headphones with a lot of bass response.

The Sennheiser HD 558 ($115) are a steal at that price. They're incredibly comfortable, open-back headphones with a very wide soundstage and warm signature. They'll do much better with surround software.

Both of those options have a relatively low impedance, so you shouldn't have to worry about amping (although they'll still benefit from it). If you're looking for a mic, the ModMic 4.0 is on MassDrop right now. It's a bit pricy, but I've heard great things about the sound quality. If you want something a bit cheaper, the Zalman Clip-On is always an easy option.

Edit:
This might be slightly skewed, because a brick sitting on my head would be more comfortable than the headband on my Q701s.

u/tilldrop · 23 pointsr/Reaper

I teach music production as a side job and from what I have learned, the hardest (in terms of most confusing, not time consuming) yet most important part of getting into music production, is to fully understand the DAW itself.

So don't give up, there are tons of others who have been in your situation.

Personally, I usually approach two things: signal flow and user interface. You'll want to fully understand what gets send where and how to find that place in your software.

You'll want to have a basic understanding of what MIDI data is and what the difference between MIDI, an analog audio signal and a digital audio signal is.

Oversimplifying a little bit MIDI is a data protocol that sends information - usually information like notes being played, at what velocity etc. or controller data (MIDI CC). This data is not to be confused with an audio signal. The Akai keyboard for example uses the MIDI protocol to communicate with Reaper.

Now since MIDI does not contain any audio, but you want to make music, there is something needed to make an audio signal out of the MIDI data you can play on the Akai keyboard. For this, you can use any soft- or hardware synth, sampler etc. These programs/hardware will use the incomming MIDI data to trigger oscillators or play a sample - usually at a certain pitch, depending on the MIDI note's data.

It looks like you already figured some of this out, but didn't quite understand how it worked. Now, the software synthesizers work exactly how you imagined: They are loaded into Reaper as Plugins (usually in VST-format, but can be JS, AU, or other). For this to work, you'll have to tell Reaper where to find them. So I suggest you install them into a common folder and tell Reaper where to find that. (Options->Preferences->Plugins->VST->Add folder via "Open", than "Rescan".)

The octapad can output both, MIDI and audio. Now it really depends on what you want to get from it. Do you want to sounds from the octapad? Or do you just want to use it as a controller to trigger some sampler plugin in Reaper? Depending on that, you'll either need a MIDI to USB interface or a audio to USB interface. There are also interfaces that do both, audio and MIDI. And also interfaces with more fancy features like

  • multiple inputs (audio for synth/mics/guitar or MIDI),
  • (multiple) outputs (to attach speakers to)
  • zero-latency monitoring
  • phantom power for condenser mics
  • better pre-amps for less noise when recording
  • etc.

    Your computer probably even has an audio interface built in without you ever having thought about that. It'll probably not have many features, will not support phantom power, will have not gain adjustment for incoming signals etc, but it could work with your octapad if it has a line-in.

    I'm happy to help, but your questions are very vague. Just try to tinker. Experiment, create basic rhythms, work with audio and with MIDI, explore ever feature of Reaper, bit after bit, and you'll soon feel much more comfortable. Getting comfortable is the most important step, since you'll want Reaper to be your laboratory, your tools, an empty canvas. At that point, you'll be able to truly focus on the music. So take your time :)
u/PotatoPower3d · 22 pointsr/headphones
u/elastic_autumn · 21 pointsr/battlestations
u/i91809 · 20 pointsr/bassnectar

this is my shit right here, shoutout /r/headphones

Best bet for your price range is probably ATH M50x, nice punchy bass while retaining a lot of detail in the rest of the frequency range

The Beyerdynamic DT770 are a little more pricey but worth the extra cash imo, again you get nice deep bass without sacrificing sound quality anywhere else and these bad boys are built like tanks

On the more budget-friendly side of things is the Sony MDR-V6, this is a straight up classic headphone that punches above its price point as far as sound quality goes although I personally would have some reservations about the non-detachable cable

There are a ton of other headphones that fit your general requirements and price range but these are the first three that popped into my mind!

u/itsZiz · 20 pointsr/buildapc

I started with just a few things and then listed everything I see... sorry for the spam
(these are all things I have, feel free to ask any Q's)


- Mini Fridge - https://www.amazon.com/Danby-DAR026A1BDD-3-Designer-Refrigerator-2-6-Cubic/dp/B00MO6V96W/ref=sr_1_8?s=kitchen&ie=UTF8&qid=1519347546&sr=1-8&keywords=mini+fridge


- Cup - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUBR8UH/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Air Cleaner - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BI4UQK0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Good Chair Mat - https://www.amazon.com/Black-Chair-Mat-Rectanglular-ABS-RC-4655/dp/B00D83MURM/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_229_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CMJS2EM6STF7XCCJZGWZ&dpID=51%252BWDnIRG0L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail


- Big Boy Ergo Chair - https://www.ergoexperts.com/collections/ergonomic-chairs/products/office-master-iu79hd-24-7-intensive-use-heavy-duty-high-back-ergonomic-task-chair


- Camera Mount - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CMLX1O2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Space Heater - https://www.amazon.com/Lasko-Ceramic-Heater-Remote-Control/dp/B00PYDGN18/ref=sr_1_17?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1519348189&sr=1-17&keywords=lasko+space+heater


- LED Lights - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LX9Z3LH/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Foot Rest - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EN9W3UY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Wrist Rest - https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=node%3D510182&field-keywords=lasko+space+heater&rh=n%3A1055398%2Cn%3A3206324011%2Cn%3A9425950011%2Cn%3A510182%2Ck%3Alasko+space+heater


- Underdesk Headphone hanger - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P31BMHG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Trash Can - https://www.amazon.com/Rubbermaid-Commercial-295700GY-Wastebasket-Rectangular/dp/B079WPRXXS/ref=sr_1_26?ie=UTF8&qid=1519348333&sr=8-26&keywords=trash+can


- Cat Bed - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DJRCQBW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Keyboard - https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=2164


- Keycaps - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/PBT-Backlit-Keycaps-109-Keyset-Top-Printed-Cherry-MX-Key-Caps-For-Tenkeyless-87-104-108/32842167507.html?src=google&albslr=220105582&isdl=y&aff_short_key=UneMJZVf&source=%7Bifdyn:dyn%7D%7Bifpla:pla%7D%7Bifdbm:DBM&albch=DID%7D&src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=708-803-3821&isdl=y&albcp=653478879&albag=34653160498&slnk=&trgt=75384829977&plac=&crea=en32842167507&netw=g&device=c&mtctp=&gclid=CjwKCAiA8bnUBRA-EiwAc0hZk62T3uqIKPVAUNx-ATVUQIzI8kscvB4UdNBR5dMpZ46l1gp9aoD38BoCNXQQAvD_BwE


- Mouse - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JPOLLTK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Mouse Mat - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0745N6CMD/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Headphones - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007R99S14/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
& https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008POFOHM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Dac/Amp - https://www.jdslabs.com/products/48/objective2-odac-combo-revb/


- Speakers - https://emotiva.com/products/airmotiv-6s


- Subwoofer - http://www.outlawaudio.com/products/m8.html


- Mic - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KCN83VI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Mic Interface - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012MIVUQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Boom Arm - https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1194415-REG/o_c_white_ulp_mb_proboom_ultima_lp_adjustable.html?sts=pi


- Web Cam Alternative - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G9EYN26/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Lens - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JDGB94S/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- PC Cam Interface - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4SM7H6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Lights Boxes - https://www.amazon.com/LimoStudio-Digital-Photography-Fluorescent-AGG883/dp/B0091HO1FS/ref=sr_1_10?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1519348726&sr=1-10&keywords=16%22+x+24%22++soft+box


- Light Box Stands & Clamp - https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1327281-REG/ultimate_support_17637_jamstands_fixed_length_boom.html
& https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0010CYHW4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- Light Bulbs - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IB8O2VU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/tantalus_blank · 16 pointsr/drums

Even if you make a fair amount of mistakes, most people will still come up and tell you it was great/tight, so it's quite an unreliable reference unless it comes from another good drummer you can trust to be frank. Frame of mind definitely messes with me too - sometimes you can't quite catch the groove and sometimes you don't realise that you already have. I'd recommend getting something like this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003QKBVYK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1396174652&sr=8-1 and recording gigs occasionally. If you feel like one song was a bit off, listen back to it the next day.

u/Vortax_Wyvern · 16 pointsr/HeadphoneAdvice

Wall of text ahead. Please, read only if you are really interested...


What I usually recommend when someone ask for advice about gaming headsets is: Gaming headset are crap 99% of the time. They provide very poor sound quality, and any good headphone (literally, even 40$ ones) will sound far better than expensive 300$ headsets. The question is not if headphones are better than headset (the answer is “Hell, YEAH”). The question is, are they better for you?


What are you planning to use your headphones for? Just for gaming, or for gaming and music listening?


If the answer is “just for gaming”, then ask yourself if a Hifi headphone is what you need. Usually games don’t really need high quality headphones, since they provide low quality sound, and you will be more concentrated gaming than listening. In that scenario, everything will serve you, and gaming headsets have the advantage of the integrated microphone.


So, if you want something good for gaming, and just for gaming, with integrated microphone, then the only two headsets with good enough quality sound (aka don’t suck) are:


HyperX Cloud (70$)


Sennheiser G4me One (170$)


Both are good choices. Or go with any fancy RGB headset you find (Logitech, Razer, Corsair, Steelseries, etc), you will most probably don’t notice the difference while gaming.


BUT, if you plan to use them for music listening besides gaming, then keep reading.


Hifi headphones for gaming have the disadvantage of having to deal with the micro thing. None of them have microphone incorporated, and you must either use a desk microphone like this, use a modmic like this one. or if your budget is tight, something like this. The first one requires desk space. The second and third one are detachable micro, with an extra cable you’ll have to deal with. Any of them are a nuisance. Any solution is annoying. All of them are an extra expense that must be accounted. If micro is a must and you are not willing to bother with this solutions, please, go back to HyperX Cloud or G4me One.


Ok, so, you really want some damn good headphones, that also can be used for gaming! Keep reading, please (are you bored yet?).


You can choose Closed back headphones (the classic ones you have already used. Closed back models offer good isolation and do not leak sound. This is your choice when there are people around you, or you want isolation from noisy a environment.) or Open Back headphones (Open back models offer next to no isolation and will leak sound -and allow you to hear what happens around you-, but they are the best sounding models). Open headphones achieve the best sound, soundstage (feeling that sound is coming from around you) and imaging (ability to locate the origin of one sound).


If you are here because you want to get a replacement for a gaming headset, I would recommend you Open back, but since they don’t isolate, you must choose. If isolation is required, get closed back, if that’s not a concern, go open.


Some closed back cans:


Audio-Technica ATH-M40x. 100$. Balanced headphones, very good feedback from lots of people. Typical entry level headphones to the rabbit hole.


Sennheiser HD 598Cs. 125$. Balanced, very very detailed, great instrumental separation. Comfortable as hell, Very recommended.


Beyerdynamic DT770. 160$. V-shaped signature (lots of bass and lots of treble). Great for explosions, movies, and rock. Treble can be harsh if you are sensible. Get the 32 ohm version, as the 80 (may) and 250 (do) need an amplifier to work properly.


Those are some examples of entry-mid level of closed cans. There are lots more, depending of your budget!


As for open cans:


Superlux HD668b. 40$. Those are THE CANS. The best quality for low budget you can get. Hands down. Great soundstage, Bass light. They are not too comfortable, but pads can be changed for a deluxe comfort (extra expense). You are not getting anything better at this price. For gaming in a budget, this are the headphones you were looking for,


Philips SHP9500. 80$. Mid-forward signature. Good soundstage, great comfort. Very detailed. Another amazing quality for the budget headphone.


Sennheiser HD 598 SR. 170$. Very similar to the HD 598Cs, but with open back. Wider soundstage, a little less bass. Very balanced headphones. Super-duper comfortable. Great for long gaming sessions.


Philips Fidelio X2. 250$. V-shaped signature. Those are in another league. Build quality is just.. OMG. Extreme soundstage and imaging. More comfortable than the HD 598. Bass is BOOOOOM!!!. A little pricey, and can be somewhat fatiguing to listen if you are treble sensible, due to high treble.


Well, that’s all. I have selected only headphones that don’t need an amplifier. Now is your turn to research, watch some Youtube videos, read some reviews, and give them a try.


All this headphones are GOOD. No trash here, and all them will make you open your eyes when listening your music if you are coming from standard headsets. You will notice sounds, instruments, that you never realized they were there, even if you had listened this song a thousand times before. Try them, and be amazed.


Welcome to the rabbit hole.


u/KoreaKoreaKoreaKorea · 16 pointsr/buildapc

$30 DAC - Link - Please know these aren't game changers, it's only offering better quality sound than your motherboard. If your headphones or speakers aren't that great, it's not doing to do much. Weakest link type of thing. If your headphones suck, these wont help. But if you have a decent set of phones, many people have sworn by these.

$75 DAC - Link - More expensive, better sound output. Again, should be paired with even higher quality sound gear. $100+ speakers/headphones.

$115 DAC - My Dac - Link - I needed a dac with a little power. I use speakers with my setup instead of headphones. This one is 2x25. It's honestly the most anyone should need for a 2.0 system.

$80 Speakers - Link - These are mine. I love them. Best combined $200 I've spent. Instead of a CPU that will need to be replaced in two years, these will out last many builds if I take care of them. The reviews are through the roof compared to the price. And I'd have to agree.

There are a million reviews about the topping DAC + Micca speakers. Things feel more immersive. I think that's the simplest way to put it.

u/Ramsesmfg · 15 pointsr/mexico
u/kRiiLiiN · 14 pointsr/headphones

I agree with the other comments here, don't worry about spending more to get more. If you haven't heard decent headphones (designed for the sound quality not the looks or marketing) then something cheaper will still be impressive.

Here are some recommendations to get you started:

Open Back

u/JohannesVerne · 14 pointsr/VoiceActing

Personally, I think the MXL V67G is a good mic choice for beginners. It has a warm tone that's pretty forgiving for a lot of voice types, it takes EQ decently, and it's only ~$65. It has a good bass response, which many cheaper mics lack, and the upper frequencies are fairly smooth.

For the interface, pretty much any full interface will work. I normally recommend the Behringer UM2 for the price (~$40), but as long as you avoid stuff like the Neewer phantom power supply (which isn't an actual interface) you'll be fine. If you have extra money, something like the Audient iD4 (or iD14 if you need two inputs/think you will in the future) or Apogee Duet are good choices. They both have a good amount of clean gain (no hiss from the preamps) and they don't color the sound much, if any.

You will also need a mic stand, XLR cable, pop filter, and headphones. To get all that, it's going to cost about the same as a Blue Yeti (minus the headphones, but you'd need to buy those for the Yeti as well) and will sound far better.

If you have the money though, look around and test mics out before you buy. Every mic is going to sound slightly different, and just because one mic is popular or fits one person well doesn't mean it's the best choice for you. There are plenty of mics under $1000 (even under $500) that are phenomenal, you just need to find the one that suits your voice the best. As for mid-price mics that you may be interested in, there is the Lewitt LTC 440 Pure, Aston Origin, Rode NT1, CAD e100s, and Audio-Technica AT4040. This is just a list to get you started looking, and by no means covers all the good mics, so look around for what you think will suit you. Test out what you can, because you don't want to spend that much money without being sure it will sound right for you.

​

More important than mic selection though, is acoustic treatment. Even the best, most expensive mics are going to sound terrible in an untreated space. You can buy panels or foam squares, but if you're tight on money you can improvise this pretty easily. There are tons of youtube tutorials, so I won't spend too much time on it, but some good materials are blankets (moving blankets, quilts, comforters, basically anything really thick with lots of dead space), cushions, and pillows. If you have a fully stocked walk-in closet, that's even better.

u/Naoki9955995577 · 13 pointsr/oculus

I'm a bit of an audiophile and anyone looking for probably the best solutions for cheap:

IEMs(earbuds)
< $20

KZ ZST https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N0782B3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vri5Cb0QCWCKX

Open back headphones
~$60, $70 right now

Phillips SHP-9500
https://www.newegg.com/black-philips-shp9500-00-over-the-ear/p/N82E16826138190?item=N82E16826138190

Closed back headphones
< $100

Audio Technica ATH-M40x https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HVLUR54/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nui5CbDJBP9S7

Personally my favorite is the KZ ZST at just how freakn cheap they are.

u/oddmanero · 12 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

the sm58 is a directional mic, and you need audio cables+audio interface for it (like a focusrite scarlett solo https://www.amazon.ca/Focusrite-Scarlett-Solo-Audio-Interface-Tools/dp/B01E6T56CM or a behringer um2 https://www.amazon.ca/Behringer-UM2-Audio-Interface-Preamplifier/dp/B00FFIGYOI/ref=sr_1_18?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1541103504&sr=1-18)

the yeti can do 4 different modes, it's got a built-in preamp and it's powered straight off of the USB cable.

different setups for different purposes. i got a yeti but i want a sm57+audio interface to mic up a guitar amp setup

u/MainHaze · 11 pointsr/buildapc

I see a lot of people here recommending great builds, so I don't have anything to add on that from. However, no one here is mentioning the audio interface that will be needed to actually record his music.

There are a lot of different options available for those, and they definitely have a huge range in price. As an audio guy/musician myself, I use the Presonus Audiobox USB for home recording. It has the inputs I need to record with either a mic or by directly plugging in my guitar and using amp plugins.

If he's using large sample libraries, then he'll need a lot of ram. 16gb would be ideal, but he can get by with 8gb. It'll just limit the amount of libraries he can load in one recording session.

Also, I don't know if he already has a Pro Tools license, but that doesn't come very cheap. Currently, a Pro Tools licence goes for pretty much your entire budget (600$). If you want a cheaper solution, I HIGHLY recommend Reaper, which goes for about 10% of what it costs for Pro Tools (60$). I use it both personally and professionally for work and can say with some authority that it's an excellent tool for any kind of audio work that you need to do, be it music, sound design, or even scoring video.

u/[deleted] · 11 pointsr/buildapcsales
  • V-moda boompro is good if your headphones have a detachable cable. You can also zip tie it to the back of your monitor (using zip tie tiedown points) and have it stick out the side.

  • I currently use a Audio-Technica ATR-2100 on a scissor stand connected via XLR to a Scarlett 2i2. This is overkill for most people, but I find the scissor stand convenient and I already had the Scarlett 2i2.

  • On an extreme budget you can get by with a clip-on mic.

  • The Antlion Mod-mic is a bit more expensive at $55, but is really nice.
u/DaveUnderscore · 10 pointsr/buildapcsales

These work great for my yeti:

Shock mount: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073Z9NF3Y/

Arm: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DY1F2CS/ (will not fit the yeti without the shock mount)

Crappy pic of it all

u/Du6e · 10 pointsr/buildapc

Something like this makes a lot more sense, went with a white / black build.

u/Ariizu_CA · 9 pointsr/osugame

The Audio-Technica ATH-M40x are probably your best option at $79.00.

u/gomanio · 9 pointsr/pcmasterrace

these mackies are at your limit but they're gorgeous, I use the CR4's(same thing slightly larger) Good balance and clarity, and surprisingly good bass, though you won't get the pounding bass a sub will provide. I feel like that is not a big deal, I get plenty off these speakers for enjoyable movie, gaming and music.

One of my favorite features, they're reversible, you can set them up in either orientation both speakers can serve as a left or right speaker via a small switch on the back.

u/Mr_Liney97 · 9 pointsr/Flume

The two ROLI bags belong to the ROLI Seaboard Rise. Awesome, but pricey.
https://www.amazon.com/ROLI-Seaboard-RISE-25-Controller/dp/B0159ZO4U2?tag=equipboard-proof-20&psc=1&SubscriptionId=AKIAJNPAI32UDCKLKDGA&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B0159ZO4U2

The small item to the left of it is a Teenage Engineering OP-1 Portable Synthesizer.
https://www.amazon.com/Teenage-Engineering-002-AS-001-OP-1-Synthesizer/dp/B00CXSJUZS?tag=equipboard-20&psc=1&SubscriptionId=AKIAJNPAI32UDCKLKDGA&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B00CXSJUZS

To the left of it is a audio interface, Scarlett. To me it looks like a 2i2.
https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-2i2-GENERATION-USB-Recording/dp/B005OZE9SA

Below that is the Arturia BeatStep Pro.
https://www.amazon.com/Arturia-BeatStep-Pro-Controller-Sequencer/dp/B00V5BIKNW?tag=equipboard-20&SubscriptionId=AKIAJNPAI32UDCKLKDGA&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B00V5BIKNW

Below the ROLI bags is the Apogee Quartet Audio Interface
https://www.amazon.com/Apogee-Quartet-Audio-Interface-iPad/dp/B009HPDNKS?tag=equipboard-20&SubscriptionId=AKIAJNPAI32UDCKLKDGA&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B009HPDNKS

And to the left of that is the Yamaha Reface DX
https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-REFACE-DX-Portable-Synthesizer/dp/B010UXJZWA

I don't know what the other things are, but I hope that I helped

u/pooka123 · 9 pointsr/buildapcsales

Here is the link. It does work with Blue Snowball and yeti. Just check the Q/A below

u/realandR3cys · 9 pointsr/trance

I'd suggest looking at the Audio Technica M40X. It's currently going for $99, and is truly an awesome pair of study headphones. They will be more suited than the M50X, because the M50X features more unnecessary bass and treble, and the soundstage is also narrower. Comparatively, the M40X is more neutral and pleasant.

But, if you can splurge upto $145, just look no further than the Beyerdynamic DT770 Pro 250 Ohm Version currently going for $144, and is like miles ahead of what the M40X/50X can offer you.

Pair the DT770 Pro with an amp like the Fiio A1 currently for $28, and you get a long term solution. Basically for just $50 more ($144 + $28), you're getting a solution that's head & shoulders above your all expectations!

u/Salyangoz · 9 pointsr/Flipping

thanks for the review. Ive a few of these arms in my workbench as well. If it helps anyone save some $$$ using 3-6(for dslr) of these microphone mounts and hacking them together can get the desired effect with extra parts to spare and no more sway because you have doubled the springs. Ive been using that for about 2 years now and theres no noticable lack in strength.

Youll be saving about 80$+ (From 120$ to <40$). I dont have a dslr anymore but there should be some dslr tripod mounts that you can 3d print to also get that camera holder mount.

If not I can build a 3d model and test it out for anyone for a small fee (once I do, ill send it over to you if youre in the US).

edit: downvotes :/

u/djdementia · 9 pointsr/Android

As a DJ I just died a little bit inside. I sure hope they have a shitty sound system because driving even a halfway decent sound system off a phone is asking for serious trouble.

It will sound like shit, it will be distorted and have a serious lack of bass and high end.

Hope you put that phone in airplane mode, nobody wants to hear your txt message or phone ringing.

Please, I implore you not to do this. At the very least you should have a low end laptop running foobar2000 or something with the auto crossfader and a low end music/dj sound card like this one.

u/klaqua · 9 pointsr/pics

First of, HAPPY BIRTHDAY to your Grandpa!

Second! Go onto Amazon.com and buy:

ZOOM H1 Audio recorder

Go find a list with good questions, work of it or find inspiration for your own:

100 Questions to ask your parent

50 Questions Google Doc

Now hit record and sit down with him, once or a few times, and let him ramble. Use the questions as a guide and prompt to tell his stories.

Upload the original MP3 to google drive!

You now have created great lasting memories for generations to come without much effort. Do the same with a video camera if you feel able, but don't wait too long. Time is of the essence!

Here is one I did a few years ago for friends. Great memories!

u/bass-lick_instinct · 8 pointsr/Bass

I've said it before here, and I'll say it again: I think a cheap recording interface and a DAW (Digital Audio Workstation) is one of the most powerful tools for isolating issues, practicing, working through trouble spots, creativity, and more, and you can get started for about $100-$150.

I constantly use my interface and DAW. A very common use for me is to throw down an audio track with a song I'm having problems with, then I'll loop the tough sections and practice them over and over until I nail them. Some DAWs will allow you to adjust your playback speed without affecting the pitch, so if you're trying to tackle a super technical spot in something like YYZ, you can slow playback speed by 50% (or whatever) allowing you to play the song at a slower speed, then as you develop your chops you can increase the speed, ultimately easing yourself into playing the song at full speed.

I also use it for learning songs real fast. I'll start at the beginning of a song and loop the first ~25%, practice until I know it, then loop the next 25% of the song until I know it, etc until I've worked thorugh the whole song and I've found that I internalize songs much faster by doing this. The beauty is that you can lay a track down with virtually anything that can play through your phone (or basically anything with an audio jack). Just lay down a stereo track, hook up your phone to the interface via stereo cable, press record on your DAW and play on your phone.

I have a whole project for the songs I practice, each song has its own track, then below each song's track I have my bass line that I play, which I can then analyze. Recording yourself is like putting a magnifying glass on your playing, you might be surprised. I remember the first time I recorded myself I thought I nailed my part, then when I played it back I was quite humbled, to say the least!

There are tons of ways you can use a recording interface for practicing, but of course you can (and should) also use it for music creation. There are billions of free plugins out there which will work with most DAWs. Just get a cheap $30 MIDI keyboard and you'll have unlimited creative potential that would have cost tens of thousands of dollars to have just a couple decades ago in the analog world.

I personally use a Mackie Onyx Blackjack recording interface, which I would not recommend if you are using Windows (drivers are aging and Mackie doesn't appear to be updating them or supporting newer OSs, which is a shame). For a DAW I use Logic Pro X (only available on OS X), which is the best $200 I've ever spent, but you don't need to spend that (or anything) to get into a DAW. When you buy a recording interface it should come with a basic DAW that will do all the essentials, if you want something real powerful for cheap then try Reaper, which has a trial that doesn't ever cripple the software, and it's only $60 for a license (which you should buy to support the dev if you like it, it's a great piece of software).

For recording interfaces, the Scarlett Focusrite is super popular ($150). You can get decent recording interfaces for a little cheaper, I would just make sure it has at least two channels.

u/brother_bean · 8 pointsr/sysadmin

I'd say for me, if I were making my own home office and wanted to trick it out:

At minimum a dual monitor setup, but it would be nice to have 3 (I have dual monitors and also the laptop screen running them so it works out to 3.) A nice monitor arm that will hold both (or all 3) monitors to keep the desk clutter free. Something nice that makes both monitors adjustable for you (maybe even a 90 degree rotation so you can code on a vertical screen when you feel like it.)

A nice condenser mic with an arm for it as well. I figure if I were working from home I would probably be doing conference calls more regularly than if I were in the office, so a good condenser mic will make my life easier and make sure I can communicate well. Maybe a blue yeti or blue yeti snowball with a nice boom arm for it like so so I can use it when I want it and then push it away when I don't.

In the same vein, a decent webcam that can clip on to my monitor (or buy one of the above boom arms and attach the camera to it, probably smart for only $15 so you can move it around.)

Definitely a great office chair since you can justify the expense and you're going to be sitting all day.

This one is great regardless of working for home or working from the office, but a nice mouse. I just got a Logitech G502 the other day for gaming as well as work purposes and MAN. I never knew what I was missing out on. I have thumb buttons/extra buttons programmed to copy, paste, delete, winkey + e to open an explorer window, ctrl + t for new tab, and also a key combination to switch my active window to my other monitor so I can quickly move stuff between them without having to click and drag.

Since you're working from home and don't have to worry about bothering other people, I'd definitely buy a nice mechanical keyboard. They're a dream to type on. I used to have an office to myself so I bought one and I miss it dearly now that I'm in a cubicle. In my opinion, well worth the expense.

Again since you're not in an office you could get a nice speaker. Bluetooth to keep the cord clutter down but really anything works. You can go budget or big here.

If you're a whiteboard person, a whiteboard to hang on the wall.

Definitely yes to the dock. I have one here at my office and it's so flipping nice being able to plug in one thunderbolt cable and keep the clutter contained to the back of my desk behind my monitors with the dock.

I'd probably buy a nice standing or desk light that still uses filament bulbs to make it warm/easy on the eyes. Ample lighting. And probably a plant or two just to make it look nice and feel good being there.

That's all I can think of. Can you tell I'm living vicariously through you? I know you said must haves, so if I were going to buy the above in order, it would be monitors > dock > mouse > blue yeti snowball > mic stand > camera > camera stand

u/chimpanzeeland · 8 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

So assuming that all normal PC components are included (PC, display, keyboard, mouse), as well as monitors or headphones, this is what I'd do:

DAW: Cakewalk by Bandlab [FREE]

  • Having a DAW should really be the first thing you look at. I don't use Cakewalk personally but I've tried it and for the price, it's unbeatable.

    Interface: BEHRINGER UMC22[$59]

  • A very affordable interface with the very good MIDAS preamp. Great value for all of your initial interface needs.

    Mic: Audio-Technica AT2020 [$99]

  • Again, a very affordable, but decent, mic. As it's a large diaphragm condenser, it's extremely versatile and will sound great on everything from guitar to vocals.

    MIDI Controller: Alesis VMini [$49]

  • For the budget, you'd only need a basic midi controller and Alesis is a tried and true brand in this price segment.

    VSTs/Plugins:
    I'd try to get by using as many free VSTs, as well as what's included in Cakewalk. Here's a list of decent free stuff that'd get you started:

    Guitar amp sims: LePuo free collection [FREE]

  • LePou is really the gold standard of free guitar plugins. With a bit of tweaking, they sound great. I'd definitely pair them with the TSE Audio TS-808 tubescreamer (also free).

    Drum sim: MT Power Drum Kit [FREE]

  • A Steven Slate-style drum VST with good samples and a decent groove editor. For the price, you can't go wrong.

    Other plugins:

  • For synths, effects and other plugins, VST4FREE is your friend. They have a great selection of free stuff.

    Assuming your PC is relatively recent and has enough horsepower to run a production suite, and you have monitors/headphones that are fine for mixing, this would be a great place to start out. Also, even after buying extras like cables, mic stands, pop filters etc, I'd say you have about $200-250 left for whatever genre specific stuff you'd want - whether it be a used guitar, a second mic (such as the Shure SM57 [$95]) or a second hand hardware synthesizer, for instance.
u/Emokid909 · 8 pointsr/buildapcsales

20 cents cheaper on amazon.com via third party seller.

https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATH-M40x-Professional-Monitor-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR54

Review by Z Reviews: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X6wBv03B1nk

Might be a tad bit biased, but there is important information here.

u/ZeosPantera · 8 pointsr/audio

You are playing too much Aphex Twin.

What you are actually hearing is a classic case of poorly shielded onboard audio hardware and/or poorly grounded hardware. Since pushing on the connector helps that means it is probably the latter. You have to ground the plugs manually by physically adjusting them or soldiering them. Another option is not using your onboard soundcard and getting something like this behringer dac to replace your soundcard and separate your audio from all the bad inside your PC.

u/Rrussell2060 · 8 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

To build a system using the minimum recommendations from this sub, let's start with this diagram: http://i.imgur.com/Z8FMJ.png
DAC is optional, so is a subwoofer but I recommend one.

DAC: Behringer UCA202 $29.99 Link: http://amzn.com/B000KW2YEI

Amplifier: SMSL SA-50 $68.99 Link: http://amzn.com/B00F0H8TOC

Subwoofer: Dayton Audio SUB-800 $99.00 Link: http://amzn.com/B0063NU30K

Bookshelf Speakers: Micca MB42X $89.00 Link: http://amzn.com/B00E7H8GG2

Wire: 16-gauge Speaker Wire $8.00 Link: http://amzn.com/B006LW0WDQ

With DAC, this cable: Stereo Male to 2 RCA Male $5 Link: http://amzn.com/B00I0HPK6O

Without DAC, this cable: Monoprice 105597 3-Feet Premium Stereo Male to 2RCA Male $5 Link: http://amzn.com/B0094A1F3S

This is a great starter system, I would have loved to had something like this starting out.
All of these pieces can be upgraded, do your research. Look for sales etc. Good luck and have fun.

u/mstassi · 8 pointsr/musicians

Garageband is a good option, since you have a mac. Audacity is free. You can find some other DAW programs for free if you know where to look. I plug my guitars (electric & acoustic) and mic into this interface and it works great for the level of quality I'm looking for. It aint free...but it's relatively cheap as far as recording goes and I'm sure you could find something similar for less if you look.

u/ChaoticToxin · 8 pointsr/pcmasterrace

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DY1F2CS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DsPOCbBFSCZN7

Not being a dick or anything just dont want it to fall

u/TuFFrabit · 7 pointsr/HuntShowdown

Arguably some of the best headphones for gaming under $100 are the Superlux HD668's. They are open back with large drivers, so the soundstage is huge.

Superlux HD668B Dynamic Semi-Open Headphones https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003JOETX8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_u-MnDbPGZC3YH

Not sure if you also need a microphone. The Behringer xm8500 is pretty fantastic for the price. You'll also need a way to get XLR to your PC. That could be as fancy as a USB interface. Or as simple as a USB to XLR cable.

Mic: Behringer Ultravoice Xm8500 Dynamic Vocal Microphone, Cardioid https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KZAKS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BdNnDbREJJ63R

USB to XLR cable: USB Microphone Cable 10Ft, Tanbin 3 Pin USB Male to XLR Female Mic Link Converter Cable Studio Audio Cable Connector Cords Adapter for Microphones or Instruments Recording Karaoke Singing (10ft) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079DQ9ZPT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7dNnDb3NWRQ71

Or a basic USB audio interface: BEHRINGER Audio Interface, 1x XLR/TRS 1x 1/4" 2X RCA USB, Black, 1-Channel (UM2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EK1OTZC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4eNnDbZXTS70G

You'll also need a mic stand: InnoGear Microphone Suspension Mic Clip Adjustable Boom Studio Scissor Arm Stand for Blue Yeti Snowball Microphone and Blue Yeti Nano https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L3LL95O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1fNnDbNW9G9RW

u/FunnyPocketBook · 7 pointsr/Bass

Focusrite Scarlett Solo/2i2 as audio interface. If you are certain that you're only going to record one thing at a time, the Solo will be sufficient.

I've seen many people recommending Reaper which is the WinRar version of free DAWs (I think?)

u/dudelikeshismusic · 7 pointsr/Metal

Depends on the headphones and depends on what you're using them for. $300 is a lot of money for a pair of headphones though. I personally would say that $100 and beyond is where I notice the quality difference less and less. This is all assuming that you're buying quality headphones and not overpriced trash like Beats.

I use the [ATH-M40x's] (https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATH-M40x-Professional-Monitor-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR54/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1519152807&sr=8-4&keywords=ath-m40x).

u/Freezerburn · 7 pointsr/diysound
u/LSDoubleD · 7 pointsr/makinghiphop

To be honest, It really depends on what your budget is. If you have a $10,000 budget my recommendations are going to change drastically compared to if you have say, a $400 budget.

Assuming you want to keep price pretty low but still want pretty nice quality I recommend the following.

  • Microphone: Audio-Technica AT2020. It's a good mic for the price and most people start out on something like this or something similar. It delivers a good enough sound that you'll be happy with the results, especially considering how cheap it is.

  • Interface: Focusrite Scarlette Solo, This has kind of become the industry standard for beginner interfaces. It's a clean, simple interface. You hook it up to your computer, plug in your mic, adjust the volume and you're good to go.

  • Software: I personally started on Logic Pro X, If you have a Mac, I HIGHLY recommend it. Fantastic DAW, Arguably the next best thing to the industry's standard which is Pro Tools. Although it doesn't really matter what DAW you use. Most of them do the exact same thing, Just with different work flows.

  • Headsets: This doesn't matter that much. Find a pair of studio reference headphones in your price range and learn them like the back of your hand. Listen to tons of music on them, as much as you can. Some headphones boost certain frequencies and it's important you know what frequencies it's boosting so when you're mixing you dont add too much or too little of said frequency in.

    My one tip to anybody beginning is learn to mix and experiment. You can have a shitty mic and a shitty interface, but if you can mix well, You can make 90% of things sound at least decent and that's all that really matters in music. If you make a song that's a banger but it's not mixed that great, people will still listen to it. If you have a shitty song that's mixed by a world class engineer, nobody is going to listen to it. Don't get caught up in making sure everything sounds amazing, Just work and be creative.
u/josecouvi · 7 pointsr/BuyItForLife

Here's a few that are in your price range and pretty well known for their durability:

Beyerdynamic DT 770

Sony MDR 7506 (Also check for the price on the V6 as they're both very similar and just as durable)

AKG K240

Shure SE215

u/funtimegotime · 7 pointsr/makinghiphop

So I would suggest the JBL 305's. Same price just a better monitor. $130 is for one monitor. Check amazon as I found my JBL 305's for $123 a piece. There are a few ways to hook these up to your PC. The easiest and most efficient is to hook them up to a Audio Interface. Another way is to get a 3.5mm to TRS cable.

For general listening these are fine, I use my JBL's for music production and youtube watching. My JBL's get pretty loud and these are the smaller monitors so the bigger you go the louder they get.

JBL 305 $135 each

u/Crimit · 7 pointsr/ethoslab

I was thinking the exact same thing all along. He probably uses a XLR to 3.5 mm adapter, and thus not providing enough voltage to the mic.

He needs something like a cheap microphone preamp or just a cheap USB audio interface with 48V Phantom power.

EDIT: Just something like this.

u/Beer_Is_So_Awesome · 7 pointsr/audiophile

This question might be better suited for /r/audioengineering .

Who will ask you what the fuck you're doing starting a label to produce cassettes. Nobody has a cassette player anymore. But at least some of the old-timers will probably have the know-how.

As a side note, the Behringer UCA202 (or 222, choose your color) is a really affordable USB interface with line-level RCA inputs and outputs. I use mine as a DAC outputting line-level audio to my headphone amplifier. It sends a nice clean signal and only costs $30. I assume you would take that line-level signal from the stereo RCA outputs and plug it into the input on whatever cassette recorder you wind up with.

u/Meesterwaffles · 7 pointsr/FL_Studio

Your best bet would be an Akai MPK Mini, in that price range, you get pads, switches, knobs, and a keyboard. Can't really beat it for the price, it's also pretty high quality and portable.

u/wcwouki · 7 pointsr/Bass

The aux in bypasses the preamp and tone adjustments from the amp so you need to adjust the bass with an equalizer app or bass boost app on your phone. One other option I have used is a mini mixer with stereo inputs using the proper cable from your phone to the inputs (probably RCA type) or 1/4" dual mono inputs on the mixer...I have a couple of these cheap Behringer USB 302 for around $50-60 (they used to be around $40 when I bought mine)...https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-302USB-Premium-5-Input-Interface/dp/B005EHILV4
These will allow you to adjust the bass and treble from your phone. Cheers

u/pipsohip · 7 pointsr/HuntsvilleAlabama

It might be easier to just download Audacity and get an affordable audio interface and mic. Here's what I record with and it sounds great for what I need.

Focusrite Scarlett Solo - $89

Tonor Condensor Mic - $30

XLR Cable - $6

u/AvidyaZen · 7 pointsr/mindcrack

The headset that broke was the G35 headset from Logitech which goes for about $90 these days. It's a great headset but this would be my 3rd set in 4 years. The mic quality is average and often requires fussing with in post but overall it's a great headset.

While rocking this backup setup I've been using ear buds and I quite like it compared to the closed ear noise cancelling headset so I don't think I want to go the headset route again.

I've always wanted to go the XLR/Mixer route. This would allow me to manipulate any volume/noise issues with the mic on the fly and not touch it at all in post. I never settled on a solution that was afforable and always went with what I knew the G35.

This is the goal. It's not much more expensive than the G35 headset but is the correct tool for the job :Þ

  • Audio-Technica AT2020 XLR ^USB ^version ^exists ^too
  • Behringer Q502USB 5-Channel Mixer
  • XLR Microphone Cable
  • Microphone Suspension Boom

    A few notes about these choices. The 5 channel mixer is total overkill but this one functions as a USB audio interface meaning when you plug it in to your PC it shows up like a USB mic would. Behringer makes a 3 port USB mixer but I don't like the way it looks lol.

    Not all mixers have the ability to function as a USB device. On NON USB mixers you would have to run the output of the mixer into the input on your soundcard on your PC.

    I prefer the audio device approach. You plug your XLR mic into the mixer which is acting as the USB audio device. This allows you to control on the mixer what the computer hears on the audio device interface.

    Totally a long and involved answer but some might find it useful if in the market for audio upgrades :Þ
u/Licknuts · 7 pointsr/Guitar

Go play at open mics. This is great for networking with other musicians/bands.

You could also get a cheap recording setup, record band demos, and email those to venues. My old band recorded on a laptop from an SM57 going into a Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 and we edited/mixed/arranged/exported all the audio through Audacity (free). That's it. Excluding the laptop and mic cables, all this costs around $250 Hell, there's even cheaper alternatives available if you're super strapped for cash.

As for actually finding venues that exist near you, try going to Indie on the move and type in your area and it'll give you all the venues that exist within however big a radius you put.

Hopefully this helps!

u/spamyak · 7 pointsr/headphones

Get the DT-770. They're like the 990 but closed and bassier, a good fit for electronic music. They're built like tanks, they don't look great (and don't need to), they isolate well, and thus they barely leak sound.

If you're using with a laptop or phone with underpowered audio out, get the 32 Ohm for $124.

Otherwise, the 80 Ohm version is $118 and also has velour pads. It also has just a bit more bass, but on worse audio sources it will be too quiet or otherwise sound a bit off.

Don't get an amp - if you would need an amp, get the 32 Ohm version. If you're dead set on getting an amp, go for a DAC/Amp, the SMSL M3 is one of the best cheaper desktop models.

Alternatively, and this will be frowned upon here, you could go for HyperX Cloud for $80. You missed the cheaper sale Friday ($65), but from personal experience of having these exact headphones without the microphone, they sound great with everything and have enough detail that they're a significant upgrade over what you have now.

u/duhduhduhduhduh · 7 pointsr/audiophile

I just bought the JBL LSR 305's for 99 bucks each.

I saw this on the recommended sidebar and this is the lowest I've seen it on camelcamelcamel. This is a good price right?

u/talkingsmall · 7 pointsr/audioengineering

Haha, yeah welcome to recording things. You're never done spending money.

I just checked the user manual for your current interface, and yeah, you're not going to be able to use that with a condenser mic.

Something like this will work: http://www.amazon.com/PreSonus-AudioBox-USB-Recording-Interface/dp/B00154KSA2. It's cheap, and probably a little better quality than the Line-6 you're currently using. Presonus makes high quality stuff, and I think for what you're doing, that's about the cheapest you're going to get (feel free to prove me wrong, other people)

Re: your question about phantom power adapters. I don't have any experience with them, but if anyone else does and likes them, it's really up to you.

u/thatonekid57 · 7 pointsr/PostHardcore

If you're looking for a durable, good all-around dynamic mic for recording/performing, I would recommend the SM58.
If you're wanting a condenser mic, I've been using the MXL 770 for a couple years now and it's been great. Do you have an audio interface? If not, the one that I use is the PreSonus AudioBox.

EDIT: Feel free to PM me with any particular questions. I've been in a band for a few years and working on my second CD. Not an expert by any means, but if you have starter questions, I could definitely give you my two cents.

u/omnomanom · 7 pointsr/buildapcsales

No, you likely don't NEED this nice of a boom arm. The $12.50 NEEWER arm will certainly get the job done for much much cheaper. But if you prefer professional/higher quality and don't mind paying a premium for such, then the RODE arm may be for you. This thing very rarely goes on discount as you can see here.

u/mwfisher3 · 7 pointsr/audio

The Behringer UCA-222. It's 30 bucks, acts as a headphone amp as well as a stereo RCA interface with optical out for easy connection to a stereo, mixer, etc. I use mine to plug my laptop into my living room home entertainment system. I never have to worry about a lousy 1/8" to RCA cable breaking or falling out of my computer's headphone jack.

http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA222-U-Control-Ultra-Low-Interface/dp/B0023BYDHK/ref=pd_cp_MI_0

u/corbytender · 6 pointsr/synthesizers

I have these $99 Mackies. Definitely not a pro-quality studio monitor, but they're cheap, loud, and work great as both my synth & CPU speakers.

u/landon-philip · 6 pointsr/audio

What you want is called a mixer. It takes multiple inputs and sends them out one output, with volume controls for each individual audio line. Behringer makes one that is very affordable and I've been one using this for casual stuff for a few years now. You'd take the output from both computers and put them into inputs 1 and 2 on the mixer, then plug your headphones into the output jack on the right side. Voila!

u/deandimarzo · 6 pointsr/audioengineering

You really, really need an interface. The built-in soundcard isn't quite up to snuff when it comes to audio input, and as /u/despicable_secret mentioned, condenser mics need 48V of phantom power to function correctly.

The most popular option is the Focusrite Scarlett Solo, but just about any of these will do the trick.

u/theninjaseal · 6 pointsr/diyaudio

Even though this may be unintuitive, you cannot reliably use splitters to sum signals. Just like a funnel upside down is not the same thing as a shower head. Google "Why Not Wye" for a great technical explanation of this problem and how to build a little summing box.

In layman's terms, the problem is that your phone output ends up fighting the mic receiver, as opposed to just adding to it. A little more technically, the phone is designed to drive headphones so it has low output impedance and allows a relatively large current to flow across the contacts. This output impedance is a property independent of the volume. The mic receiver is not meant to be an amplifier in the way your phone is, so it can only push a tiny amount of current out before the voltage drops. This is fine when plugged into an amplifier input - hardly any current has to flow. But when the phone starts soaking up its output, it doesn't put up much of a fight. This can be very detrimental to both devices, and certainly has the potential to break one or both if you push them. Not a great situation.

What you can consider is small passive mixer like [this](.Behringer MicroMIX MX400 Low-Noise 4-channel Line Mixer, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KGYAYQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LRf7ybWHMG37Q) cheap no frills option. You can also solder up some converters yourself. Finally you could use something like a DI box to isolate the phone from the mix receiver. That would do it if you have some lying around but the reason I didn't recommend it is that a small cheap mixer would be more useful and cost the same.

u/Skalpaddan · 6 pointsr/CGPGrey

Make sure to try them out first though. Noice cancelling headphones might make it feel like you constantly have a preassure on your ears (like the one you get when you're on an airplane and it's climbing) and that's really uncomfortable. Not all people experience this but I do and I can't stand to have noice cancelling headphones on for more than 5 minutes. Instead I bought a pair that are closed headphones that passively cancel out noice instead of actively like the Bose quiet comfort do. I have pair of these and they are also great on a plane but they don't fold down as nice as the Bose ones do.

u/YarrJay · 6 pointsr/ft86

Equipment

  • Nexus 7 2013 w/ Timur's kernel (still in closed beta - open for donors)
  • Custom 3d printed housing
  • Alpine KTP-445U 4-channel Power Pack Amplifier
  • USB OTG Cable - Modified to fit
  • DC-DC Converter
  • Behringer UCA202 USB DAC
  • Bluetooth OBD2 Adapter - For getting real-time data into the Torque app
  • Add-a-fuse
  • Ground loop isolator ** Item still needs to be tested. This was purchased to hopefully eliminate a popping noise i get when first powering on the system

    Must Have Apps

  • GMD Gesture Control - Since i have no physical volume control buttons anymore GMD gesture control allows me to setup custom gestures like a 2-finger swipe to access volume control.

    Very excited to be ~95% complete with the install. A couple things left:

  • pull out the double-din housing i made and put the top on it which also includes a fan
  • address a 'popping' sound when turning on the system. possibly caused by the amp turning on before everything else? still seeking a solution here

    More than happy to try to answer questions for anyone else looking to do the same thing. Very happy with the outcome thus far.
u/shadfresh · 6 pointsr/electronicmusic

I have a few recommendations for you to get you started:

  1. This book: Music Theory for The Computer Musician , it's a great way to start off if you're unfamiliar with music theory. It gives you the basics and foundation of theory and while showing you how to apply it to various DAWs. It's a fairly easy read and there are quizzes and a CD with examples from the lessons. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND!

  2. Here are some good subreddits:
    /r/edmproduction/
    /r/WeAreTheMusicMakers/
    /r/abletonlive/

  3. As others have mentioned, there are no shortage of resources online. There's tons of Youtube videos and forums where you can find tutorials.

  4. I also recommend listening/reading up on different types of EDM to give yourself a better understanding of what differentiates each genre. For example, check out the "House Music" wiki. Look at the description and try to understand what the "elements" of House music are: Rhythm structure, characteristic sounds, etc.. Do that for the genres you like first, and then venture to others you may not be familiar with.

  5. Lastly, if you're serious about it, stick with it. Just like anything, the more you put into it, the more you'll get out of it. Also, keep in mind it's not a cheap hobby or easy (time wise). You can do a lot of basic stuff with you Macbook and Logic (or whatever DAW you prefer) to get yourself started. I would hold off buying much hardware until you are comfortable with basics. If anything I would start off with some headphone and speaker monitors. (the links are to what I'm using and recommend to get started).


    I hope at least some of that is helpful...Good luck with everything!
u/l1788571 · 6 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Swan D1010-IV powered bookshelves cannot be best for under $70:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0058QMRCK

Monoprice's basic 8" powered sub is just $60 right now:
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=8248

So, at this point you should still have around $60 left to work with. I would recommend spending that on some kind of external DAC; pretty much anything will be an upgrade over the onboard outputs from your motherboard. This unit from Behringer is well-regarded and gets the job done for $30:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KW2YEI

Grab two of these RCA splitters from Monoprice; you'll use them to split the one set of left and right outputs from the DAC into two, to route each to both the Swans and there sub:
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=663

Grab a couple sets of these RCA cables to run from the splitters, to both the Swans and the sub (they're available in 6, 12, and 25 feet; get whatever you need to reach, probably 6 for the Swans and maybe 12 for the sub):
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=2009

Let me know if you have any other questions (hooking things up, etc), or would like further recommendations. Enjoy!

u/Smutquery · 6 pointsr/linux

I've used a Behringer UCA-202 on Fedora 19, Fedora 20, and Debian Wheezy. It's always been a plug-and-play affair. It has a headphone jack and is reasonably priced.

It sounds good to boot.

u/drebin8 · 6 pointsr/buildapc

These are the Bose speakers I have

Here's a set of speakers that are better for half the cost

These blow away the Bose speakers and cost a bit less

By the way - check out /r/audiophile - I'm not an audiophile, but that's what a few guys from over there recommended. The Audioengines would probably be your best bet, though if your budget is $150 get the second one. I haven't used either one so I'm not speaking from personal experience, just what's been recommended to me.

u/DigitalDouche · 6 pointsr/buildapc

I'd go with the M-Audio AV40's, cheap and the sound really good.

(http://www.amazon.com/M-Audio-Studiophile-Powered-Monitor-Speakers/dp/B0051WAM64)

u/gotly · 6 pointsr/rarepuppers

Yeah. Good enough. Way better mix than my previous 2.1 system. It's this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KVEIY4E/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/SinisterHumanoid · 6 pointsr/pcmasterrace

ATH-M50x's with brainwavz pads since the stock ones are thin and will fall apart after a year of heavy use. And a ModMic.

https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATH-M50x-Professional-Monitor-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR86/ - $150~

https://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Hybrid-Memory-Foam-Earpad/dp/B00ZGGG3KY - $30~

https://www.amazon.com/Antlion-Audio-ModMic-Attachable-Microphone/dp/B00R98O6R4 - $50~

Of course if you already have a mid the ModMic isn't needed. OR for just twice the price cut the second cord attached to your skull and get an AT2020 and even a Scarlett Solo for the best sound possible.

https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT2020-Cardioid-Condenser-Microphone/dp/B0006H92QK - $100~

https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Audio-Interface-Tools/dp/B01E6T56CM - $100~

u/metafizikal · 6 pointsr/audiophile

Best answer is probably/maybe. Here are some options at different price points:

$30 UCA202

$76 FiiO E10K

$100 Modi 2

$150 ODAC

u/Silaryia · 6 pointsr/skyrimmods

If anyone's curious about getting an XLR setup, I can direct you to some pretty good starting gear! I personally use the Audio Technica AT2020 cardiod condensor microphone and a Focusrite USB audio interface. You'll also want to buy a male to female XLR cable of some kind. A pop filter is also a good investment! And, of course, you'll want a stand of some kind for the microphone. I personally use this but it limits your ability to move the microphone away from a desk.

If you want studio quality, be sure to record in 24-bit 48k, with an uncompressed format like a wav. That's the standard both Hollywood and indie productions have been using for years.

Oh, and if anyone's curious about credentials, I mix and record audio for commercials.

u/mikewoodsays · 6 pointsr/VoiceActing

Bare minimum: you need an audio interface, such as the Behringer UM2, an XLR cable, and a DAW, like Audacity. There are more expensive and higher quality options for all of the above, of course.

u/broken_cogwheel · 6 pointsr/audio

Behringer UCA202 - This is what I use with my laptop.

Fucking excellent.

u/aydiosmio · 6 pointsr/livesound

I would definitely pay more than $11 for your ADC. In fact, the one in your laptop is probably better.

Ideally, you want an audio interface where you can control the gain. Biggest problems I had (aside from lots of noise) in these cheap audio interfaces was the inability to set the input gain or lack of a preamp.

The Behringer's aren't amazing, but something like the UM-2 should be a vast improvement.

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UM2-BEHRINGER-U-PHORIA/dp/B00EK1OTZC/

You can return that Nady because the UM2 has phantom in it, and you pay about the same price.

u/SageWithTheSauce · 6 pointsr/makinghiphop

> Audio Technica

Facts

Bought these a few months ago and couldn't be happier spending $100. My mixes have actually improved a tonn using these just because they present the sound as is with no bullshit so it stays consistent and accurate. They come with a really long cord that detaches from both sides and a nice little "leather" baggy to take it on the road. They also have an optional $30 Bluetooth adapter.

You said you got a $200 budget, so maybe go for a higher model although many people on youtube said 50x is not that much better than 40x and isn't worth the price difference.

Not sure if you are interested, but I would actually recommend splitting that 200 on M40Xs and a MPK Mini midi keyboard. Both are 100 and would bring more value for $200 (if you don't already have a midi keyboard.

u/kabbage123 · 6 pointsr/videography

I'd consider getting the Sony A6300. You'll be able to do 120fps in FullHD.

I'd then consider recording your audio externally, maybe on something as simple as a Zoom H1. It's going to be difficult to find a high framerate camera that also does clean audio capture within your budget.

u/gabmartini · 6 pointsr/argentina

Hola!

Arranqué el proyecto Economista del medio el año pasado como una forma de llevar el laburo de analista de consultoría macroeconómica a un espectro de población más amplio, lo cual implica menos jerga y biribiri financiero. Este año se sumó la periodista de Infobae Jorgelina Do Rosario y empezamos a cambiar el formato del programa: hemos ordenado los temas y sumamos las entrevistas que le dan un valor agregado enorme al oyente. Estamos muy contentos con el resultado hasta ahora, tanto en calidad del material como en escuchas.

De la misma manera que como mejoró el material también mejoró el hardware con el cual grabamos. En su momento empecé con un mixer Behringer Xenyx 1202FX, un micrófono Shure SM58, unos auriculares Audio Technica M40x y una Zoom H4n. Luego de mi viaje a Japón me traje micrófono un Audio Technica 4040 (large diaphragm condenser) y ahí terminó el avance en hardware en 2016. En términos de software editaba (y sigo editando) el archivo crudo con el Logic Pro X de Apple.

Este año invertimos y nos trajimos (via Amazon Europa) un mixer Allen & Heath Zed60 10fx y un segundo micrófono Audio Technica pero el AT875r (un shotgun cortito condenser que es una maravilla). De backup tenemos dos micrófonos Audio Technica 2100 (los que son USB/XLR) que en relación precio/calidad son muy recomendados para los podcasters amateurs. En resumen, nuestro lineup de materiales es de primera calidad y para explotarlo al máximo, estamos intentando mejorar el tratamiento acústico del área donde grabamos para minimizar ruidos indeseados.

Como te decía, estamos muy contentos con las escuchas (en número general y en público en particular, es decir, los quienes). Hemos recibido comentarios de gente que nos sorprendió y eso nos motiva. Todavía no es LA masividad en escuchas pero queremos estar acá invirtiendo en esto para que cuando explote el podcasting en Argentina (porque va a pasar, que no te quepa la menor duda) tener una buena base y experiencia para seguir proyectándonos.

Lo lindo es que se están acercando algunos sponsors interesados en el material asi que significa que hay proyección a futuro. La verdad que al día de hoy estamos muy a gusto y cómodos laburando en el proyecto, que es para nosotros ahora lo más importante.

Por otro lado, una de las cosas más copadas que me pasó es poder grabar con una persona que conozco y confío de hace muchos años. Al principio hacerlo solo era más un desahogo pero laburar con alguien en esto, que aparte sabe y se mueve en el medio, tiene algo muy especial y divertido. Ese es un item que taché de mi lista de pendientes.

En materia de proyección a futuro y ToDos, creo que seguir mejorando y buscando calidad para ofrecer el mejor producto disponible en el mercado. En materia de hardware todavía tengo la espinita clavada por el Shure SM7b con su respectivo Cloudlifter pero por ahora estamos muy contentos con el equipo con el cual grabamos.

Saludos!

u/warriorx559 · 6 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

I'm actually in the market for computer speakers although my budget is a bit lower than yours. But the Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 is one of the options that I'm considering, it is my second choice right now.

Here are some reviews for the ProMedia 2.1 from youtube.

Review 1

Review 2 update from #1

Review 3

Review 4 update from #3

Some issues i have with these speakers are that there is not a power switch on the speakers but instead it is located on the subwoofer. That from the reviews on amazon said for some people the knobs that control the volume and bass have not worked after a while. Also, that the subwoofer can get really hot if it is played for a long time.

My first choice right now is the M-Audio Studiophile AV 40s. One thing off the bat, is that is not a 2.1 system but looking at reviews it looks to be a solid product.

Here are some reviews from youtube.

Review 1

Review 2

Review 3

Review 4 M-Audio AV40 Vs Micca MB42

Final thoughts I'm leaning towards the AV 40s but I'm still doing some research, I hope this helps out.

u/living_in_the_future · 6 pointsr/AskBattlestations

The M-Audio AV40 is highly recommended on the Head-Fi forums: http://www.amazon.com/M-Audio-Studiophile-Powered-Monitor-Speakers/dp/B0051WAM64/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1341940916&sr=8-1&keywords=m+audio+av40

They are the type of speakers people who enjoy music use, but are budget oriented. I'm sure they would be decent for gaming as well.

u/Blueman826 · 6 pointsr/Bass

What they are using is an interface, a DAW and possibly an amp simulator on their computer.Basically an interface is a box that you plug your instrument or mic into that goes into your computer. It turns the analog signal of the instrument or mic into digital information that the computer can read. These can be worth a hundred dollars to thousands of dollars depending on your needs.

The bass signal would then have to go into an amp simulator for the direct input signal to be heard like it's played through an amp. These amplify and change your signal just like an amp would do, providing a full sound for your guitar/bass. These are can be worth anything from 0 dollars to a couple hundred and each has its own sound and quality.

DAW stands for Digital Audio Workstation and allows your instrument or mic to be recorded along with other tracks and instruments. These allow you to record songs and covers but also allow you to use tons of effects including compressors and eqs, amp sims and midi instruments.If you simply want to play and/or record your bass through your computer I'd recommend getting a simple 1 input interface like a Steinberg UR12 or a Focusrite Scarlett Solo. The Focusrite would have a higher quality build and sound, but the Steinburg will still get the job done. A great DAW would be REAPER, as it is completely free to use but will request a licensing of $60 that you do not have to pay. And there are tons of great free amp simulators online, but there are some really nice amp sims for a bit of money. I'd suggest checking out This list of free sims and checking out the other paid amp sims including Bias Fx and Amplitube.

Good Luck!

u/exscape · 6 pointsr/Guitar

With a sound card made for studio usage, lag/latency shouldn't be a major issue. Some basic knowledge is required to set it up, but that same knowledge is required for any sort of computer-based recording, so it's easy to come by these days! There's tons of materials about this online, but I'll write a brief summary (not to be considered a tutorial!).
(I'm assuming Windows usage here. For Macs, the default sound card may be good enough -- it was in my 2006 and 2011 Macbook Pros. Apple's Core Audio API is really good for a OS stock one!)

You need a sound card (or: "audio interface") with good ASIO drivers. In practice, that means one that is designed for studio use. That doesn't have to mean anything very expensive, though. The cheapest ones are about $100-120, but a pretty decent one is probably more like $180.
A few examples:
FocusRite Scarlett 2i2 (a 2nd generation is on the way, so I wouldn't recommend this right now. Also, I returned my Scarlett 2i4 due to having issues.)
Roland Quad Capture (the one I use personally)
Presonus AudioBox 22VSL

The sound card you already have might work well enough with the ASIO4ALL driver, in which case you may be able to use the hardware you already have.

Once you have one of those, you install the drivers and set up the ASIO latency or buffer size (different names, same thing) to some low value. You might have to tweak this -- having too low a value will cause dropouts as the computer doesn't have time to apply effects and so on before it's time to move the sound to the speakers.

With that in place, there are a few ways to go. You need some sort of effects (like amplifiers, cabinets, delays, EQs and so on); the easy way to do this is to use some package. I mostly use Guitar Rig for this, but there are plenty of others, such as AmpliTube and Peavey ReValver. There are fully free options as well, e.g. the LePou plugins.

You can use those in several ways. The simplest would be to use a simple audio editor, like Audacity. Another way would be to use a DAW (Digital Audio Workstation), i.e. an application used for recording music, with tracks and mixers.
I use REAPER for that, as it's about $60 and I still prefer it to ones that cost ten times as much. Other popular choices are Cubase, Logic (Mac), Pro Tools, and so on.

So, yeah, it's a bit of an involved process... but once you're there, the main difference between playing for fun (to a track or by yourself) and recording an album is clicking the record button before you start playing. :)
As for cost, that really varies. If you're lucky and your sound card works well with ASIO4ALL (or you have a Mac and that works well), you can do this for free. If you need to buy a sound card and want to use the software legally, you might have to pay a few hundred bucks for the combo.

u/mattSER · 6 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

I think the JBL LSR305 are the best value. Sometimes you can catch them for $250/pr or less.

They're $276/pr on amazon right now.

https://www.amazon.com/JBL-LSR305-Studio-Monitor/dp/B00DUKP37C

Also these 5" Mackies for $220
https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-CR5BT-Channel-Studio-Monitor/dp/B015U623MQ

u/thepensivepoet · 6 pointsr/Guitar

Ableton is a great DAW and is my preferred software choice for recording/editing.

You can use the TASCAM to capture your performances and transferring those .wav files into Ableton for editing but you'll have a much better experience recording directly into your computer.

You can go a few different routes here. You can pick up an audio interface that accepts an XLR connection for a proper microphone like a Presonus Audiobox and an SM57 which will allow you to capture as good a single channel signal as you can really get outside of a big recording studio.

OR you can go with something cheaper like a Blue Snowball USB microphone. These things actually sound surprisingly good and have multiple settings for directional and omni modes for different situations.

Once you have a way of capturing audio directly into Ableton you can start building up your songs layer by layer. Experiment with things like EQ and compression/delay/etc to make your guitar tracks sound nicer. There are built in patched in Ableton for EQ like "Acoustic Guitar" or "Electric Guitar" and just dragging one of those onto your channel will be a great place to start.

That's a skill in and of itself but you have to start somewhere so start experimenting.

When starting out applying EQ to tracks I'd start this way :

  • Solo the track so you're only listening to the single layer

  • Create a single EQ filter with a high Q value so it creates a really sharp and thin "peak" and drag it upwards so it's amplifying a very narrow band of frequencies quite a bit.

  • Drag that "peak" left and right while the audio is playing and listen for something that jumps out at you as unpleasant. Now drag the peak DOWN to bring those frequencies down in the mix to remove whatever harshness you discovered. Bring down the Q value to make that trough a bit wider and smoother.

    Do that 3 or 4 times on a channel and you'll have something that sounds a bit nicer. If you do too much it'll sound hollow and empty so make subtle adjustments as much as possible. Don't dump that "bad frequency" all the way to the bottom, just bring it down a little bit so it doesn't jump out at you.

    You won't be creating drastically new tones this way, just polishing them so they sound nicer.

    Having a good pair of headphones or even some inexpensive studio monitors will also be extremely helpful so you can accurately hear what you're producing.

    Use the built-in metronome and record with headphones (so the click doesn't get picked up by the microphone) to keep things tight.

    Once you've finished your audio and it's how you like it THEN film your video and just play along with the click. Don't use any audio from the video recording and just pair the two back up in editing.
u/slightly_drifting · 6 pointsr/Guitar

Here, use this. There is NO reason you should be going into the line in on your pc for Christ's sake. It's got such low headroom you'll clip almost always. This setup doesn't come with a mic, but you can plug your guitar into it and get a cheap condenser mic on craigslist. If you're playing acoustic guitar and singing, then just buy this usb mic. Good luck!

Edit:The term you were looking for was "interface", not "preamp", which is why you got solutions that aren't going to work well.

u/FormulaBass · 6 pointsr/buildapcsales

Your mic stand snapped? I'm pretty sure you got a defective product. The mic only weighs 1.2 pounds without the stand...


I have the $10 NEEWER stand and it's been great for about the year I've had it.

u/mythrilguy · 6 pointsr/letsplay

Actually there are plenty of mic arms under $100 that hold the yeti, it's just the seller will state otherwise. This is what you want: https://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-Microphone-Suspension-Broadcasting-Voice-Over/dp/B00DY1F2CS
I own it and it's great for the price.

u/kobrakae · 6 pointsr/audio

Your problem is the lack of an actual preamp. Phantom Power does not do anything to the actual microphone signal level, it merely provides the capacitor circuitry in a condenser microphone with the power necessary to operate. However, the output from that microphone is still going to be extremely low. (Microphones are generally -40 to -60 dBv, which is 100 to 1000 times weaker than the signal powering your speakers, for example.) Microphone inputs on motherboards are notoriously craptastic as well.

Vileem's suggestion to try using the USB output on the UPM-1 is a good one - this is probably going to provide you with a much stronger signal to your computer. If you want to keep things analog until they hit the motherboard, then you need a preamp that also provides phantom power. Something like the ART TubeMP - but this could lead to other problems as you may run into phasing issues or left-channel-only issues when plugging into a computer input. This is why USB preamps are generally preferred.

If you want cheap and effective, my recommendation would be to send the UPM-1 back, and get something like the Behringer UM2 - for $30, it handles phantom power, it has direct monitoring (meaning you can hear the microphone right as you speak, instead of after passing through the motherboard and OS which adds latency), has nice big dials for controlling level on top, and also acts as a secondary sound card (output device) as well - honestly it will likely sound better than your motherboard's sound card.

u/JakeCameraAction · 6 pointsr/filmmaking

You have 2 good choices.
Will you mainly be using it stationary or in one room? (i.e. a film where you set up the shots beforehand) Buy a Zoom H4n
or
Will you be using it while walking around and want better sound for random shots or documentary style recording? Buy a Zoom H1.

u/BangsNaughtyBits · 5 pointsr/podcasts

A full setup that will record four local mics, max, or two local mics and a Skype caller. A choice of mics.

Behringer UMC404HD interface for $100 (needs a USB cable I think)

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UMC404HD-BEHRINGER-U-PHORIA/dp/B00QHURLHM/

Behringer HA400 headphone amp for $25

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-HA400-BEHRINGER-MICROAMP/dp/B000KIPT30/

Needs two TRS 1/4" stereo cables, one for the headphone amp and one for Skype. $10

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CSS-105-Balanced-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068NYF/

Behringer XM1800S three pack of good enough mics for $40

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-XM1800S-BEHRINGER-ULTRAVOICE/dp/B000NJ2TIE/

or a slightly better Behringer XM8500 at $20 each

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Ultravoice-Dynamic-Microphone-Cardioid/dp/B0002KZAKS/

or a very nice Blue enCORE 100 at $60

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Microphones-enCORE-100-Studio-Grade/dp/B002SQJL9U/

A couple 9-foot XLR cables for $12 or vary as you see fit

https://www.amazon.com/2-Pack-Cable-Male-Female-Microphone/dp/B074KYQ66J/

On-Stage, desk stand for $13 (lots of options)

https://www.amazon.com/Stage-DS7200-Adjustable-Microphone-Stand/dp/B0002M3OVI/

You need some RCA to 1/4" TS cables. Technically two though there are reasons up to four and this six pack is cheap at $8. Wish they were shorter.

https://www.amazon.com/GLS-Audio-Patch-Cable-Cords/dp/B0010XVYGA/

or you can get by with one of these.

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CPR-201-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O16/

and my personal favorite, the UCA202 for $30

https://www.amazon.com/BEHRINGER-U-Control-Low-Latency-Interface-Digital/dp/B000KW2YEI/

This gives you full Skype access to the other rig for Two local mics.

!

u/HanSoloBolo · 5 pointsr/casualiama

I would recommend upgrading that at least a little bit. I host podcasts and I wouldn't want headphone mic audio on my show.

You should at least look at some cheap usb microphones. I'd recommend the [ATR 2100] () which I bought for 25 bucks. I'm currently using an [XLR mixing board] (http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-1202-BEHRINGER-XENYX/dp/B000J5Y282/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1456871248&sr=8-4&keywords=behringer+mixing+board) and a [10 dollar dynamic microphone] (http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-XM8500-Dynamic-Cardioid-Microphone/dp/B0002KZAKS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1456871363&sr=8-3&keywords=behringer+3+pack) that sound absolutely wonderful and only cost me 70 bucks when I bought them used.

u/HULKx · 5 pointsr/makinghiphop

Mackie CR3 Studio Monitors [email protected] amazon

Mackie Studio Monitor, Black w/Green Trim, 3-inch (CR3)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KVEIY4E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_VhS-BbG65VV1M

u/phloating_man · 5 pointsr/videography

If you're on a budget, I'd recommend the following...

  • Triple Shoe Mount (~$12)
  • Zoom H1 Audio Recorder (~$100)
  • Rode VideoMic (~$150)
  • LED Video light [~$35)
u/SirClaytonBigsby · 5 pointsr/buildapc

This build will be adequate for music production, although just barely. Like others have said, an outboard audio interface that connects by USB is one of the most important components for an audio production PC (definitely cut that asus xonar sound card). this focusrite Scarlett series is an immensely popular choice https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Audio-Interface-Tools/dp/B01E6T56CM/ref=sr_1_2?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1491756709&sr=1-2&keywords=audio+interface I would also recommend the behringer umc hd series as being much better value at the $99 price point (this is what I just replaced my ancient audio interface with) https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UMC404HD-BEHRINGER-U-PHORIA/dp/B00QHURLHM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491757010&sr=8-1&keywords=umc404hd The audio interface will allow you to 100% bypass the motherboards audio chipset and will provide far higher quality and much more routing options than any onboard audio chipset can claim.

I wouldn't cut anything from this parts list. If you running even a few different VST's in ableton you may come to find the mechanical drive insufficient to allow you to smooth play back of instruments. An 250-500gb SSD would be a likely future upgrade for this build that would tangibly improve performance.

Also, if an audio interface is outside your budget, I would simply wait on buying one. Depending on what your doing in Ableton you might not find it essential right off the bat. Its not like its gonna affect your warping or timestretching ;)

u/staleygreg · 5 pointsr/Twitch

I have a $20 behringer xm8500 mic and u can get a behringer $40 usb interface and it sounds pretty good. My vod from yesterday is my first stream with this mic and it sounds the same as a $100 shure sm58

Edit: I originally had an audio technica at2020. It was too sensitive for me so I got a shure sm58 based on reviews. Then people were saying you can get this behringer mic for $80 less and it sounds the same. I did and I am happy with it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002KZAKS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EK1OTZC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/th3malcontent · 5 pointsr/podcasts

You want a 4 input mixer with a USB out. Brands will cause an uproar in this sub but I've had 3 different Behringers and never had a problem and they are cost effective. You want a USB out for sound clarity. If you go with line out to a PC, it will sound like shit.

This is a great mixer for the price. It's has USB out to your pc and 4 xlr inputs for mics as well as a couple for your pc or whatever audio in.

This mic will do what you need it to. It's not a condenser, but it will sound great.

With cables and windscreens you should be able to keep it under 200 with those 3 items. But, you may want to look at some cheap mic stands (holding a mic makes too much noise that will annoy your audience) and balanced Y cables for your pc inputs. I'm pretty sure the mixer will come with the USB cable. Also you will need a good headphone splitter/amp. Or you can get a cheap 4 way headphone splitter, just make sure it's stereo.

You have a low budget so you will have to sacrifice on some of the equipment. Not to say this stuff is shitty, just that five hundred would get you more bang. I realize you only have 3 people now but a guest will happen over time. Chances are though, you will do 10 shows and quit - someone will not have the time or life will get in the way, it happens. The equipment I linked to will work in many applications so it will be easy to move if you decide to get rid of it.

Again, people here will argue for days over brand name and set ups. My suggestions are suggestions that will work. I've used them for years and have had a few incarnations of each. I personally use completely different equipment now, but I know this stuff works on a budget. No - I do not work for Behringer, but the shit works for its price. Good luck, guys. PM me with the first show!

u/HybridCamRev · 5 pointsr/videography

Sadly, a $125 microphone mounted on your hot shoe will not give you high quality sound. The mic will still be too far from your subjects and you'll still have the challenge of the T5i's noisy preamps.

Instead, you might want to consider a couple of other options in your budget range (either option will require you to sync your audio and video tracks in the edit):

Option 1: Buy a decent quality [$99.99 external recorder] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003QKBVYK/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B003QKBVYK&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) and get it close to your subject (either on their person or on a boom as pictured [here] (https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-9Y6-Dzel6tQ/U4sh36uWaSI/AAAAAAAAIzA/A-sKB4PzWOE/w965-h543-no/P1080826.JPG)) or

Option 2: Buy one or two [$70 Aspen HQ-S Lavaliers for iPhone] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MVK29BK/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00MVK29BK&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20), plug them into your subjects' iOS or Android phones and record to the free [Rode Rec LE for iOS] (https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/r-de-rec-le/id590021166?mt=8), [Smart Voice Recorder for Android] (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.andrwq.recorder&hl=en) or [Skyro Voice Recorder for Android] (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.triveous.recorder&hl=en) apps - then sync your sound in post.

Here is how a lav/phone combo works (example is for the Rode SmartLav, but it makes the point for the entire lav/phone category):

http://youtu.be/P2RIFZOGMZo

Either of these options will give you higher quality sound than plugging a consumer shotgun mic directly into your camera.

Good luck!


u/Taupter · 5 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

Behringer UMC22 is US$48 on Amazon. It will do.

Behringer Uphoria UMC204HD is the best bang for the buck. If you can save some more money you can get it for US$80.

u/AverageJoeAudiophile · 5 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Are your price point you can start looking into entry level powered monitors.

A good first stop would be the M-Audio AV40

u/TheRoyalGodfrey · 5 pointsr/hiphopheads

I'd say just mess around with chopping things up

i'd say buy a small MIDI keyboard (something like this or this) to start off and just play around with stuff. A lot of it is learning music theory and different chord progressions

u/_fuma_ · 5 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

The easiest way is to get an entry level pro-audio USB interface like a Focusrite Scarlett Solo (which has a 24bit 192KHz DAC built in).

u/Quidjay · 5 pointsr/vinyl

If you want a quality table from Best Buy and are willing to upgrade around it as you go, you can grab the AT LP120 for about $250 and get a set of powered speakers (which would eliminate the immediate need for a receiver). These go on sale periodically, so you could get them for cheaper. To add in the CD player you'll either have to be ok with changing your cabling when you want to switch to the CD player or get a receiver.

u/theknyte · 5 pointsr/recordingmusic

The go to interface for that price range is the Focusrite Scarlett

u/BeardedAlbatross · 5 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Alright, your TV has RCA outputs and the option of fixed or variable output through there. If you wanted you could just grab two JBL LSR305 and connect them with RCA to TRS cables. Probably $450 total but would sound much better than the miccas. Go into your TV audio settings and select variable audio out. This way you can change volume through your TV remote. Just set the amp on the back of the JBL speakers to 8 or so and never touch them again.

If you want to go the passive speaker route for upgradability then you can grab a stereo receiver like this Yamaha for $200. Just plug your TV in with RCA cables. This allows you to spend an extra $100 on speakers. You'll save even more money if you look through your local listings for a used receiver. If you like the Klipsch sound you can go for these. Otherwise look through your local listing for a good tower speaker that you can afford. I was going to recommend the Pioneer FS52 but a pair of those would go over your budget. You can try pairing them with a cheap SMSL amp, but I would be worried they would distort a tad early.

The best sounding setup out of the box would be the JBL LSR305, but it's also the least upgradeable setup.

u/_Tameless_ · 5 pointsr/synthesizers

tyfogob is correct, no computer needed for most mixers.

The cheapest and easiest mixer I know of is the Behringer Micromix but it only controls volume.

For a little more you can get a mixer with gain, pan, aux in, and other features. I have an Alto mixer that I got used for cheap at a Guitar Center.

u/lopegbg · 5 pointsr/headphones

get the 32 ohm version of the DT770s. I have a nexus 5 as well :)

http://www.amazon.com/Beyerdynamic-DT-770-PRO-32-Headphone-Monitoring-Applications/dp/B008POFOHM

u/AlanDavison · 5 pointsr/letsplay

As far as the volume for recording at, that's a good volume. I record at a level that makes me need to boost my audio by a good 30dB or so before I do any other work with it.

Buuuut... sadly, you're definitely too far away. As far as positioning it more closely, I think your best bet is going to be something like this. It's cheap, and it shows in the quality, but it works.

u/jkangg · 5 pointsr/buildapc

Slide your SSD and HDD onto the bottom rack and take the top rack out for much better airflow like this. Easy as pie and it'll keep your parts, especially your GPU cooler. When the time comes, here are some potential upgrades:

M-Audio AV 40 Speakers

G502. There's going to be a sweet deal for this. Bull full price at $79.99 and get a $50 steam card.

CM Storm Quickfire Mechanical Keyboard w/ MX Blues

u/blitzduck · 5 pointsr/battlestations

PC Specs

CPU: Intel Core i5 9600K (OC'd to 4.3GHz)

GPU: GeForce RTX 2060

RAM: G.Skill Aegis 2 x 8GB 3000MHz

MOTHERBOARD: ASRock Z390 Phantom Gaming 4

PSU: Seasonic G Series 550W ATX Semi-Modular Power Supply - 80 PLUS GOLD Certified

CASE: Phantek P300

STORAGE: 480GB SSD + 250GB Samsung EVO SSD + 1TB Barracuda HDD


Links for (almost) everything

MONITORS: $230 for the Asus, $120 for the LG

MONITOR STAND: $50

CORSAIR K63 COMPACT: $45 (got it on sale)

M-AUDIO CODE 49 MIDI: $400

LOGITECH G600 MOUSE: $80

M-AUDIO ATH-M40X HEADPHONES: $140

FOCUSRITE SCARLETT SOLO AMP: $210


M-AUDIO AT2020 MICROPHONE: $140

MIC STAND: $150

IKEA DESK: $40 per stand, $30 for table top, total $110

CHAIR: $90 (crappy Walmart brand. Does the trick but wouldn't recommend)

MOUSE PAD: $20

PHILIPS HUE LIGHT: $85

AUKEY LAMP: $45

PICTURE SHELF: $15

EDIFIER R19U SPEAKERS: $35

u/LuminescentMoon · 5 pointsr/singing

Good audio interfaces (like the Scarlett Solo) have a switch to directly monitor the audio from the mic (aka, it would feed it directly back to the headphones with 0 latency). Other than that, it's 100% your mic's quality.

If you're going microphone shopping, look for condenser mics instead of dynamic ones. Dynamic mics are more suitable for live performances (on stage) since they're vastly more durable than condenser mics but they're nowhere near as accurate as condensers.

u/BlamelessVestalsLot · 5 pointsr/buildapc

Mackie CR3 fit your budget

u/beefqeef · 5 pointsr/WorldofTanks

If you're willing to spend a decent chunk of money on a sound card, don't. Get an external DAC- it does the same as a sound card but is further isolated from interference in your computer. Some also have built in volume controls and mute buttons.

I use a Scarlett Solo with audiotechnica M50X headphones.

This is a good small DAC.
FiiO E10K Headphone Amplifier and DAC https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00LP3AMC2/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_Sh8FxbGKRG5TQ

And this is one which I use.
Focusrite Scarlett Solo 2nd Gen 2 in 2 Out USB Audio Interface https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01E6T56CM/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_Xi8Fxb55YAY5D


Edit: It's not worth it unless you have a good quality headphone set. I would recommend the audiotechnica M40 or M50 headphones for very good quality at low prices compared to other brands.

u/DublinBen · 5 pointsr/headphones

The best portable, closed headphones are the Sennheiser HD 25-1 II which are only $175 right now. They will block out significant amounts of outside noise, and keep your music to yourself. Being professional headphones, they are very durable and can be easily repaired.

What you're asking for in a USB connection is going to require a separate DAC. That is a whole separate issue, and you can easily spend another $100 on that alone. This $24 Behringer unit would probably be the cheapest one worth trying.

u/MyOpus · 5 pointsr/singing

Couple things... first, add POWER to your lower register. You got very muffled and flat when you dropped down, a good example is around 0:40. Watch a few videos on budgeting your breath to help sustain you when you drop down.

You have a few pitch issues, especially around 0:30 "everybody look to your right" the everybody was off. There were a few more like that as well. A good exercise for this is arpeggios.... learn them, sing them, love them :) They will help an aspiring singer a ton.

Finally, if you're serious, and since you're putting yourself out here for critique I assume you are, go ahead an invest in a good microphone and an interface so you can record yourself better. You can do it on the cheap with something like an AT2020 and a small Focusrite for around $200'ish. It will really make a difference.

You have some uniqueness to your voice, which is what everyone looks for, and you're already taking steps to improve and learn which means you accept criticism which is crucial if you're going to do anything in music... so good for you and keep working at it!

u/iMakeSoundFX · 5 pointsr/gamedev

Sure!

My gear is easily affordable (except a few choice pieces being the studio monitors and the PC itself).

I use a Focusrite Saffire Pro 40 - Which is overkill for recording, but I have other projects that involve a lot more inputs. The Focusrite Scarlett is more than adequate for this kind of work.

For my Mic, I use a [Rode NT2A] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/R%C3%98DE-NT2AANNIV-NT2A-STUDIO-PACK/dp/B004L06ZCM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1415053266&sr=8-2&keywords=) for the bulk of the recording, I have a few smaller Clip on mics for some more sensitive recording.

For my electronic audio samples, I use a [Alesis QX61] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/ALESIS-QX61-Master-keyboards-Keys/dp/B006Z6VIZO/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1415053433&sr=8-7&keywords=Alesis+Q) which for this kind of work is not necessary at all.

As for Software, this can get a little expensive but I've built this up over the years, I use Ableton Live 9 and a list of plugins to extensive to name, but 90% of the recorded samples have been edited very little, and if they have, the default suite plugins are more than adequate (EQ, Reverb etc).

I only really have to dig into specialist plugins when looking to create a certain effect - such as space, etc.

u/Mshenay · 5 pointsr/headphones

Honestly, If I were in your shoes, I'd grab a BEHRINGER UCA 202 along with a Beyer Dyanmic DT 880 Pro 250 ohm, with a Schiit Vali 2

Upgrading from the DT 880 is difficult to do, as it's very neutral. You can compliment it with something like a Senn HD 650, but for less money you can just swap a Mullard Tube into your Schiit Vali 2, and then if and when you want more, you can easily upgrade the Dac, as the DT 880 will scale nicely!

u/TactFully · 5 pointsr/buildapc

> MoBo this is where I can use some help, looking at blue black models left me looking at pretty much MSI but from there the chipset selection I get lost on what would be needed

Here you're paying extra for the Z97 exclusive feature of overclocking, which you don't plan on doing. Stick to the cheaper LGA 1150 chipsets, just pick a motherboard that has the features you need. Though I'm not sure if the 'lesser' chipsets support SLI/CF in PCIe 3.0 x8 x8 configuration for both slots.

> Monitor

U2412M is definitely good, but some people can't live with the very grainy anti-glare coating (if you've seen it next to a normal anti-glare coating, you probably know what I'm talking about). My favorite 1920x1200 alternatives are the NEC EA244WMi and the BenQ BL2411PT. There are tons of other 21-24" alternatives, see this thread for many suggestions with links to reviews

> Speakers

Don't bother with those $45 pieces of trash. You may want to consider instead 'down-grading' to a 280x (not really a downgrade at the chosen gaming resolution) so that you can afford a pair of these JBL 305s (sold each) or, at the very least, M-Audio AV40s. Or you could go with passive/bookshelf speakers and an amp, but for the love of sound don't go with sub $100 garbage on such a budget.

u/Munkwards · 5 pointsr/battlestations

Try getting a Boom arm will take that clutter of the mic away from your keyboard.

u/liberianprince · 5 pointsr/Twitch

No. You should, however, get yourself an audio interface. And even then you don't need to spend a lot of money, but it will sound far better than just connecting it through an XLR to 2.5mm or USB cable. I use this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EK1OTZC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bQLJDb5GAFJCH. It works great with my Sennheiser e835, has gain control and direct monitoring, as well as a switch for phantom power. All you really need in my opinion.

I actually got my mic setup for ~$60 including that, XLR cable, and a little tripod because I found the mic itself sitting around in my house from when my brother used to record himself playing music. Pretty satisfied!

u/brandon7s · 5 pointsr/Guitar

It's your audio interface, or rather, your lack of an audio interface. Crackling in audio like you're experiencing is due to the ASIO drivers and your soundcard not being able to keep up with the bitrate to play back your audio without dropping data packets.

Audio interfaces that will fix your problem and let you play at much lower latency aren't expensive.

If you really want to spend as little as possible then you can get this Berhinger interface at just over $50, but I recommend spending the extra $20 or so and getting this Steingerb UR12. I use the 2-input version (UR22) and it's been great.

u/basics · 5 pointsr/audiophile

The same company makes an 8" or 10" powered sub that is usually recommended with these speakers. The sub itself is around $80-$90 iirc, so it would be difficult to get something under $100 total.

Also note that these speakers require an amplifier.... which will drive your total cost up a bit.
If you need an amp, you could look at
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=300-650

You could always add in a cheap USB DAC (digital to analog converter) such as
http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1333570606&sr=8-1
To bypass your sound card (your sound card has a DAC built in, but its probably shit).

As far as needing the sub, it really depends on what kind of sound you want. I would recommend getting the 2.0 (just speakers) first, and adding a sub (bringing you to a 2.1 system) if you feel like the bass is lacking.

I have those two speakers, without a sub, and I am very pleased with them.

These speakers are frequently recommended for people looking for the best sound at a low budget.

u/FavorMusik · 5 pointsr/audiophile
u/IHeartThe80s · 5 pointsr/vinyl

Others will fill in the details, but the basic answer is, you'll need three more pieces of gear:

  • Preamp (to boost the turntable signal to line level)

  • Amp or tuner (to boost the signal to speaker level)

  • Speakers

    An inexpensive (though perhaps temporary) option is to buy a pair of powered speakers (like these perhaps: http://www.amazon.com/M-Audio-Studiophile-Powered-Monitor-Speakers/dp/B0051WAM64/), which will combine the amp and speakers. But you'll still need that preamp (these are inexpensive and start at about $40).

    Edit: Just saw your post elsewhere about hating Beach Boys' Smile. I love it but am curious about your dislike (and about who's forcing you to listen to it). As a Beatles fan you should know that they were fans—and rivals—of the BB's; the two groups inspired one another circa '65-'67.
u/Muravaww · 5 pointsr/BuyItForLife

You won't find high quality until the 120-150$ range. m-audio av40's for 150$ have been the best i've seen for a reasonable price. These are 2.0 speakers, which are generally what you want over a poor quality 2.1 set.

However, your needs are important to your choice. Are you looking for gaming, general music, flac music? You say electronic music, but that is a HUGE range of things. No matter what, this is a question better suited for a pc hardware type site/subreddit.

All <$100 speakers are all poor quality and not BIFL.

M-Audio av40 link

u/PSiMetronome · 5 pointsr/FL_Studio

From what I know, good home studio headphones will cost you at least over $200. If you aren't in the music production business then I can see why you'd be going for a nice pair of budget headphones.

Sennheiser and Audio Technica are 2 brands I really enjoy. I have used the Audio Technica m50x's for over 2 years and they still hold up great. They costed me around 175 CAD but I hear great things from m40x's as well which are going for around $80 USD on amazon ( https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATH-M40x-Professional-Monitor-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR54/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=ath+m40x&qid=1554515435&s=gateway&sr=8-3 ). The price on the m40s are practically a steal right now, so they are my top recommendation.

I also know that open-ended headphones are usually best for mixing, which the m40s are not. The only reason I chose closed-ended was to prevent leakage when listening to music in public. Your preference may vary but it's something to take into consideration.

​

u/Arve · 5 pointsr/audiophile

Strictly speaking, you are in the wrong subreddit - gear for a musician is better asked in /r/audio.

However:

> HT | OMEGA Claro Halo 24-bit 192KHz PCI Interface Sound Card w/ a built-in HI-FI Headphone Amplifier

If your friend is making music, it's reasonably likely that he's at some stage going to record external instruments (or voice). Internal, consumer-oriented sound cards are very nearly useless for this: They won't have a sufficient number of inputs, and their inputs are unbalanced. He is going to want a proper prosumer external audio interface.

There are many to choose from, but here are a few that has been reasonably well reviewed:

  • Focusrite Scarlett 18i6, $299.
  • PreSonus AudioBox 44VSL, $299.

    Both of the above have headphone amps, and you can connect instruments directly, and microphones requiring phantom power.

    Disclosure: I use neither of the above - I needed a budget option for recording in situation where I may not always have a computer, so I use the Zoom R16, which is also neat because it can act as a very compact control surface.

    > Logitech Z506 75 watts RMS 5.1 Surround Sound Speakers

    No. For making music, he's going to want studio monitors, or something resembling them. The absolutely cheapest option in that department I can recommend is the M-Audio Studio AV40 at $130. I have owned these, and wrote a review here.

    However, I'm going to go out on a limb, and guess that you're coming from the PC gaming side of things. In which case, you've probably picked the heftiest graphics card you could find. Scale that graphics card back by about $100 - a fast GPU isn't needed for music. Lots and lots of RAM and a fast CPU is.

    Either way, my point about scaling back on the GPU is that while I like the AV40's, monitors at around $300 are much better tools for musicians than $130 monitors. I was so happy with the way the AV40's performed, that I upgraded to their big brother, the M-Audio BX5 D2 - but there are many alternatives to it.

    TL;DR Your friend needs an audio interface, not a sound card, and he need studio monitors, not gamer's toys from logitech.
u/Veritech-1 · 5 pointsr/buildapcsales

How do these compare to the audio technica ATH-m40s? Roughly the same price on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATH-M40x-Professional-Monitor-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR54

u/TexasThrowDown · 5 pointsr/audioengineering

Being an IT professional sometimes this sub's acronyms confuse the hell out of me. That said, has he looked into a Scarlett solo? It's what I use at home. It's technically an interface, but is powered over USB and is great if you only have 1-2 inputs. It's also pretty small and could easily fit into a backpack or messenger bag (really anything with pockets). May not be exactly what he's looking for, but it sounds like it might fit the bill.

https://us.focusrite.com/usb-audio-interfaces/scarlett-solo

https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Audio-Interface-Tools/dp/B01E6T56CM/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1483738306&sr=1-1&keywords=scarlett+solo+second+gen

u/ingeniousclown · 5 pointsr/letsplay

This is one of the best entry-level audio interfaces you can get for the money. It might seem expensive, but trust me if you buy a 30 dollar Behringer U-Phoria you're going to get some nasty static noise because those things are garbage.

With that, if you're already breaking the bank, you can get a relatively cheap microphone that will sound reasonably good compared to the snowball, and then you can upgrade later on.

Also, what do you mean by "sound like I'm in a cave"? Perhaps your issue is something else... like a poorly treated room?

u/hadapurpura · 5 pointsr/audioengineering

I'm a singer (both lyrical and pop) and I wanna start recording myself at home. I wanna make demos and write songs (since I don't play instruments and only know the most basic music theory, I have to record). I also have a very, very limited budget (I'll get a freeware DAW). I do have a "mic": this beauty, and I wanna improve my situation, because while I'm not starting a pro studio or anything right now, I do want my voice to sound as good and accurate as possible.

My sister is in the States right now on vacation, so I can tell her what to buy me, but I have to do it soon, and I don't know what's best within my budget.

I'm overwhelmed. I don't know if I should get a USB mic (like a Samson C01, Snowball, ATR2500, Yeti, etc...), a cheap XLR mic with an icicle, or a cheap DAW interface like this with a cheap condenser. I'm not even familiar with the brands or anything, so I don't know which is better, and virtually all reviews I've seen are geared towards podcasting or things like that. What would you recommend me?


u/yoitsmeab · 5 pointsr/Guitar

I use a mic to an interface to my laptop, which is the standard route.

For the mic, I use an sm57 for higher volume stuff (if you ask any musician what mic they would use if they could only have one mic for general recording, 80% will say an sm57). For lower volume stuff, I use a large diaphram condenser mic (requires phantom power)

For my interface, I have an old Tascam 1800 (it has 16 inputs, I used to use it to record percussion and orchestral parts.

For software I use Cubase and Reaper. Cubase is expensive and difficult and I kind of hate it but it works really well once you figure it out. Reaper is free and fairly simple to use.

This is a fantastic less expensive interface for recording guitar

This is the Shure sm57 microphone

Link to Reaper's site

Link to Cubase's site

Best of luck!!!

u/ranterbach · 5 pointsr/ZReviews

Behringer UMC22

$60, plug and play (no driver fuckery that some people encounter with Scarlett), front 1/4" for headphones and rear L/R 1/4" for use as a preamp with powered speakers.

u/Roppmaster · 5 pointsr/headphones

You need a line level mixer: https://www.amazon.com/Rolls-MX42-Stereo-Mini-Mixer/dp/B00102ZN40/.

Connect the Modi and your monitor's line out to the inputs. Connect your Magni to the output.

u/Umlautica · 5 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

That looks like it's for mono signals, not stereo. Try the Rolls MX42 instead.

u/raistlin65 · 5 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

JBL LSR305 $89 each
https://www.amazon.com/JBL-Professional-Next-Generation-Powered-305PMKII/dp/B00DUKP37C/ref=asc_df_B077N2GQXC/

These compare well with the best powered speakers in the <$500 range. Tons a professional reviews for them if you want to learn more.

u/R-A-S-0 · 5 pointsr/Guitar

You'll want a USB Audio Interface - something like this and a good set of headphones. Since you're using a Mac, you'll have access to GarageBand; grab the BIAS FX free trial for Amp + FX sims and load it as a plugin with GarageBand. You should be able to get a pretty nice setup for less than £100.

Edit: You can record in GarageBand just by pressing the 'r' key or by clicking the record button.

u/TheImmortalLS · 5 pointsr/headphones

I tried using my nexus 5 with a usb-otg cable that allows charging and usb-dac/amp


it's unnecessarily complicated, and a headphone jack is the sane choice, preferably a good one like the lg v10 has.

u/grandzooby · 5 pointsr/audiobooks

I still sometimes buy books on cassette - some older books are only available that way. And somehow it seems more fitting to hear and old-time book with old-timey tape hiss and frequency response.

I picked up a couple old cassette decks from a thrift store and use a decent digitizer (https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA222-BEHRINGER-U-CONTROL/dp/B0023BYDHK) to record them to flac/mp3.

In fact, here's a bash script (I'm a Linux user) that I wrote to record sides of tape to flac:

!/bin/bash


usage()
{
cat << EOF
usage: $0 [Filename Base] [Tape Number] [Tape Side] [optional DURATION (default=60 minutes)]

Record from the ALSA hardare hw:1,0 (USB Audio) to a FLAC file.

examples:
$0 War_and_Peace 1 A (record 45 minutes to 01-A_War_and_Peace.flac)
$0 War_and_Peace 1 B 60 (record 60 minutes to 01-B_War_and_Peace.flac)

EOF
}

if [[ -z $1 ]]
then
usage
exit 1
fi

get command line arguments

TITLE=$1<br />
TAPENUM=$(printf %02d $2)<br />
TAPESIDE=$3<br />


DURATION=$(( 45 60 )) # 45 minutes 60 seconds

if [[ -n $4 ]]
then
DURATION=$(( $4 * 60 ))
fi


OUTFILE=$(printf %s%s-%s.flac $TAPENUM $TAPESIDE $TITLE)


avconv -f alsa -ac 2 -ar 44100 -i hw:1,0 -t $DURATION -y $OUTFILE


Of course, that's hard-coded to my audio setup (hw:1,0 in the last line).

One example of something I could only get on cassette was Asimov's The Complete Robot.

u/Ennyui · 5 pointsr/MusicBattlestations

Neuman TLM 102 Mic --
UAD Apollo Twin Duo --
Macbook Pro --
Henge Dock --
Logic Pro X --
Squier P Bass --
Mexican Telecaster --
Martin DCPA4 --
Fender 3 Guitar Stand

Hit me with any questions.

EDIT: Mic Stand

u/junglizer · 5 pointsr/DJs

I use one of these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0023BYDHK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1394292147&amp;amp;sr=8-1

Nothing super special, but it sounds good and gets the job done. Just use it on booth/record out of your mixer.

u/shab1b1 · 4 pointsr/buildapc

I know that a lot of streamers use the audio technica microphones so here's one. There is also the Blue Yeti. In terms of budget microphones, there is the Blue Snowball and the CAD u37. You also might want to consider an audio interface as well. Here's an excellent combo, cause its awesome.

u/Guesong · 4 pointsr/headphones

Audio-Technica ATH-M40x Professional Monitor Headphones https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HVLUR54/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hvZfAbBEX0HJV


I've got the 50s and they're great, 40s are a step below but still have great ratings.

u/Trees_And_Porn · 4 pointsr/battlestations

Hey guys! I know this just looks like a generic RGB battlestation. I recently just bought a house for myself, and was finally able to set up my own gaming room, and I wanted to show it off .I plan to eventually set up my VR stuff in this room somewhere. I know the photo quality sucks, but I don't own a camera, and my iPhone camera sucks.



Case - NZXT Phantom 410


Mobo - ASUS TUF SABERTOOTH Z97


CPU - i7-4790k Devil's Canyon


CPU Cooler - NZXT Kraken X42


RAM - Kingston HyperX


GPU - ASUS ROG GTX 1070


Storage - Samsung 860 PRO 1TB


Keyboard - Ducky Shine 4


Mouse - Corsair Scimitar


Headphones - Sennheiser PC 360


Microphone - Audio-Technica 2020


Audio Interface - Focusrite Scarlett Solo


Monitors - Asus VG248QE x2

u/Drigr · 4 pointsr/podcasts

Is your co-host local? If so

  • Behringer Q1202 USB Mixer - $100 (Amazon)

  • Behringer XM8500 X2 - $20ea (Amazon)

  • Good XLR cables - I've been told you should be spending around $15 per cable, but buy what's your comfortable with.

    If they aren't local? I know blue makes some higher tier USB mics.
u/tPRoC · 4 pointsr/makinghiphop

arturia minilab mk2

if you want full size keys try this or this

stay away from the launchkey it has terrible keys that feel like ass, it's only good if you want the clip launching features for ableton

the akai mpk mini is okay while it lasts but eventually the keys will break off. not might, will. Akai also just released an updated version of this controller, no idea if the keys are any more reliable on it though.

$200 is a bad amount of money to spend. either go cheap ($100) or go expensive with midi controllers and get something like this or this, everything "mid range" feels like ass for the price you pay &amp; you will be disappointed with it.

u/notamustache · 4 pointsr/headphones

Budget - $125. Really don't want to spend more than $100 unless you can convince me.

Source - Dell laptop

Requirements for Isolation - All the isolation. I don't want to hear around me, and I don't want them to hear me.

Preferred Type of Headphone - Closed. See above. I want solitude and I don't want to bother others with my music.

Preferred tonal balance - Probably can't really tell the difference in mids and highs, but I love bass.

Past headphones - Grado SR80i. Sounded great, but they're open so they didn't block out noise and everyone could hear me even at low volume, which is not what I want. Also the pads pressing against my ears for awhile hurt pretty quickly.

Preferred Music - Alternative Rock, Hip Hop, Ambient/Post Rock, Trip Hop

Misc - I tried my friend's Audio-Technica ATH-M50 and it was incredible. A little big, but I did like the coiled cable. The cable on my SR80 has gotten twisted a lot from storing it in various places. I will use these primarily for studying and occasionally watching TV or movies on my computer. I love the M50, but the price tag may be a bit too high. Should I go for the M40x or the M30x? How much "worse" is the M30x than the M50? Are there alternatives that are better for the price? Also I have Amazon Prime which is why I keep linked to Amazon haha. Saves 10-15 bucks.

u/ge4096 · 4 pointsr/buildastudio

I think the setup is definitely overkill, and you're missing out on an audio interface, which is IMHO the most important part of a setup like this. I wouldn't get the preamp at all - preamps (and especially preamps under ~$400) won't do too much to affect the sound, at least in a way that'll be noticeable when you use it for streaming. And you probably don't need a compressor either - they can be tricky to learn to use and even trickier to learn to use well. I would skip that too. If you ever need to compress something you've recorded, use Audacity. And compression shouldn't really matter if you're just streaming. And a mixer isn't really necessary for just one microphone.

But then, even if you got all of this nice equipment, everything would be ruined if you just ran it into your computer's mic jack. You should get a USB audio interface to connect your microphone and computer. I would recommend something small, like the Focusrite Scarlett 2i2. And this would remove the need for a preamp and a mixer, so all you should need then is the mic, the one long cable, and the interface. This isn't really overkill for streaming, and this will also allow you to record covers with decent quality as well.

u/PabloXPicasso · 4 pointsr/amazonecho

I have the Dot in my study, connected via an audio mixer, into an amplified speaker. You can then use the mixer to set the level of (in this example) 4 inputs. Now, any of those inputs can play at the same time, and you can use the mixer to control the level of each input. This might be better for an amplified speaker than a stereo, but might give you some ideas.

http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-MicroMIX-MX400-Low-Noise-4-channel/dp/B000KGYAYQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1464220713&amp;amp;sr=8-2&amp;amp;keywords=audio+mixer

u/tcooling · 4 pointsr/buildapc

These Swan M10's are meant to be quite good, you could use the spare cash to buy a cheap DAC.

An even better option that is very upgradeable is this selection of components for just over your budget at ~$170.

Another option is M-Audio Studiophile AV40.

Just a word of warning, try to stay away from any speakers that are marketed as for "gamers". An example of this are Logitech (although the more expensive 5.1 setups are know to be fairly good).

Good luck!

u/Audbol · 4 pointsr/techtheatre

The new Behringer interfaces are solid as a rock. Highly recommended. [link](BEHRINGER U-PHORIA UMC404HD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QHURLHM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_UahPzbFF7V6TQ)

u/mellovibes75 · 4 pointsr/battlestations

Not OP but I can help you out here. Let's break this down by component:

  1. Speakers - There are two types: active and passive. Active = amplifier built into each speaker (i.e. most dedicated "computer" speakers from the likes of Logitech, Creative, etc.). Passive = 90% of speakers out there, must be connected to an amplifier to work. Typically passive speakers will get you a better speaker for a given price for an active but you have to figure in the cost of an amplifier. For a passive speaker set up, the cheapest system recommended over at /r/audiophile is a SMSL SA-60 amp and Micca MB42X Bookshelf Speakers. If your budget is higher, ask in the daily purchase advice sticky there (read the rules/suggestions thoroughly). I don't mess around with active speakers so I can't recommend any.

  2. Microphone - For simplicity's sake, I will recommend you look into USB connecting condenser microphones as they are affordable and have good sensitivity. Something like the Audio-Technica AT-2020 or Blue Yeti are popular mics for under $100. I have the Yeti and can attest that it is a very good and sensitive multi pattern mic. They can be hooked directly up to your PC or if you want to get really fancy, check out an audio interface like the Focusrite Scarlett Solo or Scarlett 2i2. The nice thing about an interface is it allows you get a nice mic with an XLR connector (generally better than a USB connection) and it will work with your PC.

  3. Headphones - Don't waste your money on "gaming" headphones. A nice 2 channel pair of cans with a standalone mic like I listed above will hands down outperform the likes of Turtle Beach and Razr headsets. /r/headphones has a really good wiki with more info than I can provide here and headphones broken down by price range and characteristics. Plus, then you can use them both for gaming and general music listening and have a good experience, something you don't get with dedicated "gaming" headsets. The amp I listed in the speakers section is fine for headphones but Schiit makes absolutely fantastic headphone amps and DAC (digital to analog converters, check out both /r/audiophile and /r/headphones for more info on them and why they are good for your set up) with very respectable price tags.

    Hope this helps. Higher quality audio equipment can be confusing and daunting, what with all the technical details, wide price ranges, parsing through all the marketing bullshit and the sometimes snobby attitudes of some "audiophiles". I wish you luck and feel free to ask me if you have any questions.
u/neontropics · 4 pointsr/synthesizers

You need a mixer to connect your gear to, and then you just connect speakers or headphones to the mixer. I have this mixer for my Volcas and small gear: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000KGYAYQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1408515182&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;pi=SY200_QL40

To get a stereo sound from it you need this $3 adapter as well http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003DBTAZ4/ref=pd_aw_sims_2?pi=SL500_SS115&amp;amp;simLd=1

You will then also need at least three 3.5mm stereo male to 3.5mm stereo male cables, as well as 3-5 of this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000068O3T/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1408515974&amp;amp;sr=8-3&amp;amp;pi=SY200_QL40

u/Susfour · 4 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

Use studio monitors

Edit: You can also try A-&gt;B mixing, which is listening to a professionally mixed/mastered track of the same genre and comparing the frequency levels to your own

u/MookieFish · 4 pointsr/makinghiphop

I use this mic for any vocals I do and I get pretty decent results for a bedroom. You can find cheaper mics than that, but make sure you get a large diaphragm condenser mic and make sure its XLR, not USB. It doesn't come with a mic stand. I learned that the hard way

You'll need an audio interface as well. That's probably the cheapest interface that's worth getting as well from what I hear.

About $250 or so for a cheaper setup, but it's a one-time purchase and the added quality is worth it I think.

u/cotle · 4 pointsr/buildapc

I have had a fair bit of experience in the field of audio engineering, and so hopefully I don't talk out my ass when I say this but:

If this build is audio-orientated, why haven't you included a sound card or other audio interface? This kind of equipment is pretty much the most important part of your setup if you are seriously seeking to create high-fidelity recordings.

Unless you already have an external audio interface or a decent sound card that you're planning to recycle from a previous build, I would highly recommend investing in one. A mid-to-high end sound card will reduce hiss/buzz/interference and will allow you to sample audio at much higher bit-depths.

When it comes to the actual gear (as per usual) your budget dictates the hardware you should purchase, but I give some general guidelines. If you are only planning to do simple recordings (guitar + 1 or 2 vocal mics), I would go with an external soundcard like the Focusrite Scarlett 2i2. If you're interested in richer recordings of perhaps larger scale (drum kits, bands, etc), something similar to a Focusrite Clarett 8pre X or other rack gear would probably suit.

At this stage, we're talking about spending more on an interface than your actual PC, and I'm guessing you came to this sub to find computer advice. Nevertheless, I hope what wrote helps in some way. Good luck with your auditore endeavours!

u/SelectaRx · 4 pointsr/audioengineering

If you can scrape together about 125 more Euro, I would suggest this Focusrite USB interface. It's a great little unit for the price, and if you're just getting into things, this should keep you busy for a while until you start needing more options.

u/HoboStink · 4 pointsr/vinyl

If you can bump up to $260 I think the JBL LSR305's are your best bet.

u/reddittailedhawk · 4 pointsr/beadsprites

All you need is one of these. Fairly cheap, and you can hang your camera from it instead of the mic. Looks much better than taping your perler cam to a paper towel roll, which is what I was doing before...

u/fuimani · 4 pointsr/audiophile

That's almost certainly your GPU causing some interference. A cheap, surefire way to fix that would be to grab an external DAC, like the one in the UCA202.

u/SpaceManY3k · 4 pointsr/buildapcsales

I just got this. I got tired of my G930 always disconnecting, so I'm going the good headphone + good microphone route.

I use it with Discord mainly, and I just up'd the threshold where it picks up sound. No push to talk necessary.

I also scooped this up. https://www.amazon.com/NEEWER-Microphone-Suspension-Scissor-Stand/dp/B00DY1F2CS

It says it's not compatible with the blue yeti, but the attachment has a converter that threads with the blue yeti. It's a little tricky to wiggle it out. So far, it's hanging fine.

Hope this helps someone.

u/MikeVladimirov · 4 pointsr/GuitarAmps

Yes, you’re almost certainly missing out on a lot of quality.

The analog to digital converter (ADC) in your computer is almost certainly bargain basement hardware, if you have an out of the box PC. If you have a custom built PC with a good sound card or a Mac, this might not be the case. But you’re still going to get more noise, as you’ve already noticed, than with a dedicated piece of hardware.

With that being said, are you recording for fun? If so, who cares if you get some noise? A noise gate plugin will fix that instantly, as far as amateur/hobby grade recording goes. If you’re recording something serious, it’s probably advisable to get a decent interface.

I don’t have much experience mic’ing guitar cabs, but you might run into the issue of your signal being too high, which will cause god awful digital clipping. A dedicated usb audio interface will typically provide you with a gain/volume knob for your input signal. This is an extremely useful feature, in my experience.

If you’re just a beginner, this is a pretty good, straight forward, and very affordable option.

u/Bottomonium · 4 pointsr/ZeosReviews

Hi Zeos,

Which combination would you recommend?

Headphones:

u/adm96 · 4 pointsr/headphones

As everyone else has stated, you should consider some other options what are more worthwhile, such as the M40x's.

u/widowhanzo · 4 pointsr/headphones

That's almost retail price. Are you gonna be using them for listening to music or for producing music? If you will be listening, I would suggest these instead: https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATH-M40x-Professional-Monitor-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR54/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1509968134&amp;amp;sr=8-3&amp;amp;keywords=M40x

cheaper, new (not used) and better sound for simply listening to music.

u/Spritboi · 4 pointsr/videography

I would definitely recommend the Rode Videomicro. If want even better, plug the Videomicro into a Zoom H1 and you'll be set!

u/OverExclamated · 4 pointsr/HeadphoneAdvice

AT MSR7

Sony MDR-1A

and

B&amp;O H6 (if you're comfortable buying used-like new / very good out of the warehouse)

are the common commuter/office recommendations.

And of course there are always the M40x 's, but many people do not find these comfortable out of the box. A pad upgrade is recommended.

u/noiserr · 4 pointsr/Amd

EMI interference is a pain. It's impossible to test all the combinations of motherboard and GPUs.

One thing you could try is moving the GPU to a different PCIE slot.

Or you could just get an external DAC, these are really good for the price and will beat most any onboard audio: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KW2YEI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1

u/BitcoinCitadel · 4 pointsr/lgv20
u/thomasxx3 · 4 pointsr/Guitar

hmm maybe something like a simple usb keyboard that connects to your pc?

you can record directly with that and put it in your software + they are way smaller

https://www.amazon.com/Akai-Professional-MPK-Performance-Ready-8-Assignable/dp/B00IJ6QAO2?ref_=Oct_BSellerS_8882496011_0

im by far not a pro but this is what i would do^ :)

u/Goron_Elder · 4 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

What I would get in that range:
Reaper - $60.
Focusrite 2i2, Mic, Cable and headphones bundle - $240
then either a
Blue Spark - $170
or a pair of KRK Rokit monitors - $265
or an SM 57 - $92
and a cheaper set of monitors. - $135

So,
Reaper + Bundle + Spark = $470
Reaper + Bundle + KRK Rokit = $565
Reaper + Bundle + SM57 + Other monitors = $527.

Note that you don't need to buy reaper immediately, and can buy it later if you like it or switch to a more expensive DAW if you don't like it.

My monitor recommendations are very uninformed, but they're to give an idea of price range.

u/120z8t · 4 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

I have never used those but I do use Audio-Technica ATH-M40x and they work great for me. They are tuned flat, that is what you want.

u/davou · 4 pointsr/synthesizers

Heya guys, I dug through the faq and even did that website but Im still a bit lost.

I work in an office where I'm not allowed to have a computer or a phone at my desk; and I'm not allowed to connect anything to the work systems.

Apart from that I'm pretty much allowed to do whatever I want while I idle waiting for work to happen.

I've decided that I wanna try and learn to play some keys and maybe make some beats while I idle; with that in mind I have some requirements on a synth/keyboard.

  • It needs to work without needing to be plugged into a computer while I play (putting sounds on it from a computer before I play is fine, since I can do that at home)

  • It needs to have a headphone jack so that I can jam without upsetting people around me/distracting people.

  • It needs to be compact and not a full sized unit.

    Apart from that here are some things I'd like for it to be able to do also, but wont fuss over.

    line in would be cool, so that I can play along with music from an MP3 player
    Drum pads would be awesome.

    I was looking at something like this but Im not sure if that will run without having the comptuer plugged into it.

    That thing is just about the perfect size and layout for what I want; Quality isn't so important since this is going to be mostly a time waster and quick try at something. If I find I like it, I will get something better down the road. I also realize my needs and wants are pretty specific, so I'm not opposed to spending some money.
u/Grummond · 4 pointsr/audio

As it's for a computer you need active speakers. That just means they have a built in amplifier so you just need to plug them into your source (in this case the computer) and there's no need for any additional equipment to power them.

These are a pretty good buy in that price range. I've used them for 5 years or so and they have surprisingly good sound quality. Probably the best at this price point:

http://www.amazon.com/M-Audio-Studiophile-Active-Monitor-Speakers/dp/B0051WAM64/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1398030452&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=m+audio+av40

u/sportsziggy · 4 pointsr/battlestations
u/Trifax · 4 pointsr/VoiceActing

If you're going to do voiceover semi-regularly to very often on even your own projects casually, it's worth doing better than the Blue Yeti or Snowball. You can get a much better sound than that if you can manage a little more cash—I'm sure you can get creative.

AT2020 ($83), Behringer B-1 ($89.95), MXL 770 ($74.99) or 990 ($87.67), or the Samson CO1 ($38 used, $62 new).

All XLR condenser microphones, which means that you also need an interface and an XLR cable. The Focusrite Scarlett is the most popular and most affordable.

u/panserbj0rne · 4 pointsr/macsetups

Came here to recommend that. Surprisingly good bass out of such a tiny speaker but still great accurate sound. Not overpowering.

If those are out of budget, the M-Audio Studiophile AV 40 are good.

u/reteov · 4 pointsr/audioengineering

Much of the weight involved in XLR is for shielding from EM interference. If you're going for a clean sound, this will work against it. Also, consumer sound cards do not have the kind of preamp that would work with larger microphones, so you would also need to get a preamp. You're better off just getting a low-cost USB audio interface or mixer.

An example would be the Behringer Xenyx 302USB (http://amzn.com/B005EHILV4). It's good enough to be both functional and portable. Granted, $80 is not exactly pocket change, but it's still two-digit.

u/SOGOpod · 4 pointsr/podcasting

Let's start from the top.
____

  • Here's my Handy Dandy Microphone Guide to get you started. I recommend you create a budget before you go mic shopping.

  • Avoid any and all hardware mixers. If you mess up your EQ from the get-go, there's no fixing it later. Always record flat, and EQ in post. Digital EQ's are all but indistinguishable from their analog predecessors.

  • If you want to use an XLR mic (read the guide) you'll need an interface. A Focusrite will be an excellent investment, if you choose to go that route. A Focusrite Scarlett Solo will be perfect, if it's just you, or your cohost won't be recording in the same house as you, but an 18i8 will be pretty much the max any podcaster will ever need (I use an 18i20, but I later realized it was definitely overkill)

  • As for software, Garageband is perfect to start. I would recommend Mixcraft, or Reaper, but they're both Mixcraft is Windows-only (Reaper has a Mac version. Thanks for the correction @Cassinpants), and I assume you have a Mac, since you have GB.
    ____
    My personal setup is:

    -Focusrite 18i20

    -Electrovoice Re20 + Heil PR40

    -Custom PC (i7 6700k/ Fury X/ 16Gib DDR5 RAM, Hard drives for days)

    -Mixcraft 8

    -various plugins

    -Libsyn

    Hope this helps, for now! See you back, soon, to figure out RSS ;D




    Edit: Added multiple links
u/explosivo563 · 4 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

A dac, possibly (depending on your source). An amp, definitely skip. Unless you plan on getting more detailed or power hungry cans in the near future. I'd be more worried about your source files at this point. And if you are curious about an entry level dac, the behringer uca202 is like $20-30. I still use mine to rip vinyl and connect optical to my receiver.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000KW2YEI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1505704590&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;amp;keywords=Uca202&amp;amp;dpPl=1&amp;amp;dpID=41IUcFvupvL&amp;amp;ref=plSrch

And black friday is just around the corner.

u/nistco92 · 4 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

Mixxx's wiki about this subject

X-Session Controller

USB soundcard for master output

Use your regular headphone out on your laptop for cueing.

u/Aksen · 4 pointsr/buildapcsales

I commented about this in a thread about the new Razer mic... not really a big deal but here goes.

If you are looking for truly good audio, these USB mics wont cut it. It's not that they sound bad, it just bugs me that they are marketed as "studio grade," when they really are not. It is like buying a "Gaming PC," from HP.

If you plan to use it for any real content creation, you'd do yourself a favor by buying an inexpensive interface and inexpensive mic. Yeah, this option puts you over $200..... but those are two very cheap options considering that they are viable for pro audio. And they specifically are strong in features that people in this thread would use. The Focusrite Scarletts have amazing (for the price) microphone preamps, and the MXL condensers are amazing (for the price) VO mics.

Everyone in this subreddit is familiar with the price/benefit curve of buying video cards etc... this setup is probably 4x better than a USB mic at 2x the price. From here, you'd have to jump to $800 before you saw any real benefit.

u/tek_fox212800 · 4 pointsr/FL_Studio

Happy Cake Day duder! Here are my suggestions!

Under 100$

[Lexicon Alpha](http://www.amazon.com/Lexicon-Alpha-Desktop-Recording-Studio/dp/B000HVXMNE/ref=sr_1_1?
ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1412270622&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=lexicon+alpha)

Scarlett Solo

Tascam US-32

Over 100

Scarlett 2i2

M Audio M Track Plus

Steinberg UR22


Personally, I use the UR22, mainly because I need the Midi in/out for my outboard synths, and the d-pre amps are quite nice for basic mics. I work for a music shop, and our best seller is the UR22. However, any of these interfaces would work well with FL Studio, and you would not be displeased with any of them. Let me know which one you get, dude! Cheers!

Ninja Edit - Stay away from Behringer, Gemsound, Pyle, and Pyramid. They are low cost, but have poor quality builds, poor converters, latency issues, and a myriad of other problems. Also, if you need multiple inputs and mixing capabilities down the line, I suggest these;

http://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-MG10XU-10-Input-Stereo-Mixer/dp/B00IBIVL42/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1412271070&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=yamaha+mixer

http://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-Audiogram-6-audio-interface/dp/B001F1WNAS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1412271058&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=yamaha+interface


u/AnomalyNexus · 4 pointsr/southafrica

No. Kinda why I bring it up...cause I know it's something not immediately obvious to others. ;)

You need 32ohm - something like this:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/beyerdynamic-770-PRO-Studio-Headphones/dp/B008POFOHM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1541872185&amp;amp;sr=8-3&amp;amp;keywords=dt770

32ohm you can use with consumer grade gear directly. The audiophiles will disapprove &amp; argue that 250ohm gives superior sound, but I'd argue the cost &amp; convenience wins out here.

u/Terry_Pratchett_ · 4 pointsr/headphones

My brother tried my 80 Ohm with his S3 and the sound was absolutely loud enough. But there are also 32 Ohm which are made for mobile devices.

Edit: http://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B008POFOHM (German Amazon)

Keep in mind that they also have different earpads (not velour, although you can change them if you want to).

u/DieselWang · 4 pointsr/audiophile

Increase your budget just a tad and get this: http://www.amazon.com/JBL-Professional-LSR305-Studio-Monitor/dp/B00DUKP37C

Well worth the price, especially if you're doing music production.

u/triple_platinum · 4 pointsr/audio

Not sure what perspectives you are looking for but here are my thoughts. :)

I am more on the Pro Audio/recording side of things but you can run the music from anything that plays YouTube and get a mic/interface that can be plugged into any pro system. (Your living room setup can become a karaoke machine)

The standard mic for live is a Shure SM58 which is not too expensive. Then you can get a used audio interface to run the sound from your computer. For example the PreSonus AudioBox USB. Granted, you would need speakers but could plug into your current home Audio system or buy a bundled system with a mic, interface, and speakers, etc.

The advantage of using the computer is you can easily record her singing! Just another route to consider, although I suppose the appeal to a machine is simplicity and having it all in one box.

u/General_Annoyance · 4 pointsr/buildapc

I'm /u/whitefeather14's friend. If it's solely for headphones and you're not looking to spend a lot, then I would strongly recommend something by Fiio. I have an older one, the FiiO E7. They don't sell this one anymore, but they have a newer one called the FiiO E70k. I haven't personally used it, but I can only assume it's like mine but better.

If it's a little more than you want to spend, then I'd look at the Q1. I've heard good things about these as well.

These are nice, because they double as a USB dac and a portable headphone amplifier. Which means if you're traveling or something you can plug your phone into it and still get the amplifier out of it, no need for a USB source.

If that doesn't interest you, then there's the FiiO K1, which is just a USB DAC, and does not have an analog 3.5mm input, only the micro USB.

Now, understand that any of these aren't going to be the greatest DAC ever. Sub $100 is pretty cheap for a DAC, and I'm pretty sure these are all 24-bit, with 32-bit being more or less the best you can get (There's some debate on whether or not you can hear a difference, but that's entirely a different conversation.)

If you do want something a little more pricey and nice, the Schiit Modi DAC and Magni amp are really quite nice. They also have a Amp/DAC combination for $80 which I haven't heard anything about, but Schiit is pretty good.

The one /u/whitefeather14 said is a PreSonus AudioBox USB. You probably don't want this, as it is primarily an audio interface for recording instruments and microphones, and isn't a dedicated DAC, though the DAC is pretty nice, and as a bonus has a 1/4in headphone out as well as two 1/4in outs for L/R powered speakers, such as studio monitors, if that's of any benefit for you.

As for the SMSL one you posted, I have also heard good things about that one, though it's a desktop unit and does not have an analog 3.5mm input.

Let me know if you have any questions, I'm happy to help.

u/pigz · 4 pointsr/Guitar

&gt;don't see a guitar input


There's a 1/4" mono input in the centre of the XLR.


That behringer unit is prettly limited, especially getting the audio back out of the PC to your monitors. Line OR USB, instead of line and USB.


In your price range, better choices would be M-Audio MTrack Plus, or MTrack 2, Focusrite Scarlett or Presonus Audiobox


They all come with some form of 'Lite' DAW software as well.

u/ShreddyZ · 4 pointsr/buildapc

I was referring to something like the Akai. While you can record a midi keyboard using just a usb cable, you'll need some sort of interface to record signals from your microphone. I suggested a pci device because you're building a pretty badass rig, and pci devices are much faster/have better latency/have more inputs and outputs than usb or firewire devices. However, they're also usually quite expensive. Plus, if you're only going to be recording with one microphone, you really don't need all that nonsense. For this reason, I highly recommend getting a usb device. What's your budget going to be like? There are a wide variety of very high-quality interfaces to be had for under $200. Off the top of my head, two that I can recomend are the PreSonus Audiobox and the Line6 UX2 (which I use).

u/Talha215 · 4 pointsr/techsupport

Yes, and while it’s really really cheap, I find the quality to be surprisingly good when on a stand and the mic is very close to your face.

Here’s the mic I bought.

Here’s the stand I bought

Here’s a link to my voice in a YouTube video I uploaded

Not a great YouTube clip lol but it’s quiet and clear and that all I need for YouTube uploads and discord.

u/skeletonmage · 4 pointsr/ColoradoSprings

I would stick with a USB condenser microphone. They're phenomenal as they have a built in condenser and some have built in noise reduction. That doesn't mean you shouldn't do post editing to the show (like running a condenser and noise reducer over your audio), but it helps shave a lot of post work off.

I run the XLR version of the Audio-Technicia AT2020. What I'm linking is the USB version and you may be able to find it used, or cheaper, elsewhere. It's a phenomenally powerful microphone for little cost.

If you want to go XLR, because you feel like you need to do some on the fly mixing, a Scarlet interface + the XLR version of that microphone is a great combination. You can go more advanced with a Behringer Xenyx Q802USB (what I am running), but if you're just starting out keep it simple.

Also pick up a microphone boom, pop filter, and a shock mount (that particular shock mount has a pop filter with it). Keep it off your desk and about 5-6 inches from your mouth when podcasting. You want to reduce all extra noise including mouse clicks, keyboards, or bumping your desk.

If that's too expensive, a Yeti or a Snowball are great introductory microphones. There is a reason everyone uses them. I cut my teeth on a Samson CO1U, but eventually upgraded to the AT because the sound quality is a bit better. Just...always get some kind of arm or tripod or something and keep the microphone suspended.

At the end of the day, as long as you're using some kind of condenser microphone, it doesn't really matter. Post production can help make the whole podcast sound a lot more enjoyable. Just make sure you're consistent, have decent audio quality, and are excited to podcast. I wrote up some dirty tips and tricks here if you're interested.

Good luck!

u/spudlyo · 4 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

Personally, every time i've tried to make music on an iOS device I've given up in frustration. It might be fun for fooling around, but the interface drives me crazy and makes me want to do just about anything else. This is just my opinion maaaan.

In terms of software, I'd start out with REAPER as a DAW because you can get started right away on your gaming rig for free. It has a 60 day evaluation period, which can be extended until you are overcome by guilt. You're going to have to dig around the net for free VST virtual instruments and sounds, but they're out there. Buy a cheap USB audio interface, and a cheap mic and start working on your own music. You can record acoustic instruments, vocals, and random sounds with one of those mics. I'd find a cheap pair of open back headphones for mixing, and use whatever closed back sound isolating headphones you have lying around for monitoring while you're recording.

I think the best way to learn music production is to force yourself to produce music on the regular. To that end I'd suggest learning about songfight.org, which is an online songwriting and production contest that happens roughly every two weeks. There is nothing like a firm deadline to inspire you to create. You're given a title, and you write, record, and produce a song with that title. People on the Internet vote, and there's a winner. Folks on message boards will often give you feedback on your song so you can improve. Also there is a podcast that reviews the current batch of songs, so at the very least you're gonna get some feedback from those jerks. Disclaimer: I am one of those jerks.

I'd be remiss if I didn't mention Reddit's very own r/Gameofbands which does something similar, and might hook you up with folks to collaborate with.

u/Aezalius · 4 pointsr/Twitch

A Samson Q2U is a good option since you mentioned breathing and keyboard noise. It's dynamic as well as both XLR and USB, so you've got both upgrade paths in the future.

If you're set on a condenser mic then the AT2020 is a great choice. I'm using one with a Behringer Q802USB mixer, but you can get a cheaper UMC22 or UM2 which will sound just as good.

edit: If you want to go with XLR and Dynamic, then I highly reccomend the Shure SM57-lc as it sounds absolutely amazing, and there is a ripoff version of it which sounds almost identical called the pdmic78 for $20, but some people say it's not as durable as the sm57 (you can run over that thing with a bus and it still works).

u/MinuteImpossible · 4 pointsr/podcasting

I give this out a lot. I use all of these, and they were recommended by another podcaster who uses them too.

Here is my short list. I personally have used these. I still use everything but the mic (I upgraded) Everything together is less than $125 USD. Good luck!


Mixer https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EK1OTZC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1

Mics (You get 3, so you can have others on (they will need their own mixer for this setup) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NJ2TIE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1

Mic Stand, pop filter https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EBDZHNQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;th=1

Sound paneling https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071VDDVHQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1

These things and Audacity (which is free) will help you make a professional sound on a budget.

u/ThomasdeChevigny · 4 pointsr/Guitar

I would personnaly go for the Scarlett right now, because it might be a little money right now, but it's worth it (and you can always sell it used for a good price if you don't damage it). If you really must go down in your price range, simply search ''Solo Sound Card'' on google, amazon, ebay, etc. and you'll be able to find a wide range of stuff, for example

u/vanguard_anon · 3 pointsr/PKA

Well, I like your list. I don't know that Rode mic in particular but Lefty had two different Rode mics during PKA and they both sounded great.

I'd personally point you toward the RE20. I love mine and you don't have to be right on top of it to sound great. I also love my Shure SM7B but more than one person has mentioned to me that they can hear me breathe so I'm either going to switch back to the giant foam pop filter or to the RE20.

This package is $500 but it comes with the mic, shock mount, cable, boom, etc. http://www.amazon.com/Electro-Voice-Microphone-Shockmount-Two-Section-Broadcast/dp/B00U1S4YY4/ref=sr_1_2?s=musical-instruments&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1457378551&amp;amp;sr=1-2&amp;amp;keywords=re20

I don't like your audio interface. In particular it's analog and in my experience if you turn up the gain on an analog mixer you get a hiss. It's not a subtle hiss you think you hear either, it's a real problem. (Or maybe the one I had was just extra bad?)

Anything in the scarlet focusrite series will do, this one is $100: http://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Solo-Compact-Interface/dp/B00MTXU2DG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1457378874&amp;amp;sr=8-3&amp;amp;keywords=focusrite

For $150 you can get two inputs: http://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-2i2-USB-Recording-Interface/dp/B005OZE9SA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1457378874&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=focusrite

Let me know how to sound wedges do. I typically just count on curtains, shag carpet, oil painting and furniture to break up the sound.

u/laydros · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Samson makes some desktop monitors that feature bluetooth input. I haven't really seen any reviews for them yet. The MediaOne

Take a look at reviews for those and get at least the 4" ones. I can't expect the 3" ones would have much bass response.

Everything else listed lacks bluetooth, but you could add a standalone bluetooth reciever to any of them.

The M-Audio AV-40s get good reviews, and the Wirecutter calls them the best computer speakers.

Those are active monitors. They will be good for near field, and the amp inside them is designed with the speakers.

If you go passive plus amp you can upgrade components down the road. Maybe get the Micca MB42X and a Topping TP20, or find a good reciever (70s Kenwood, Pioneer, Marantz, Teac, Technics, etc. are great) for super cheap (0-$20) at a yard sale or thrift store or craigslist and get the Panasonic SP-BS22

u/lalcaraz · 3 pointsr/podcasting

Xm8500 from Behringer. I love it because has built in pop filter and it’s very quiet. Required a little bit more gain than other mics so better have a good preamp.

One time an editor told me my mic was “too quiet to sound believable that was recorded in a restaurant”. Recorded used at that time, Zoom H4N Pro.

Behringer Ultravoice Xm8500 Dynamic Vocal Microphone, Cardioid https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KZAKS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fqNmDbC48M728

u/Shake_Oh · 3 pointsr/microphones

I see in the comments below that you've already returned it, if you are willing to use a mixer the setup I would recommend to start would be:


Behringer Xm8500


Windscreen


XLR Cable


Behringer Xenyx 502


RCA to 3.5mm


All this is less than $80.

A stand like this would work well, and it is still below $100.

Here is a sound sample I found on YouTube.


Once you have more money to play around with for dynamic microphones look into: Shure SM58, Shure Beta 58, and the EV ND767A. These will run you roughly $100-$150.


Once you have a use case for condenser microphones look into: AT2020, Samson C02 Pair, and MXL 770. All of these will run you roughly $100, however if you went with the Samson C02s you would need more inputs and therefore a different mixer.

u/ruinevil · 3 pointsr/audiophile
u/QuipA · 3 pointsr/headphones

I'd highly suggest you get one decent pair of headphones, instead two headphones which either sacrifice build or sound quality.
The Audio Technica M40X are your best bet. They have a neutral sound and have great comfort for a good price.

u/Hackdaddy101 · 3 pointsr/Music

If you're willing to extend your budget about $20, or if you're willing to wait until the right time, I recommend Beyerdynamic DT770 Pros, 32 ohms. Over the ear, extremely comfortable, extremely durable (if you break anything on them you can get replacement parts instead of having to buy a new one). Perfect for when I'm listening on my phone/iPod or on the computer. They are German, so the price fluctuates with currency exchange, so I've seen them priced on Amazon everywhere from $230 to $160. I bought mine at $170, and sprang for extra comfy velour earpads for $20.

Edit: Right now they're $250, so you'll have to wait. But they're well worth the wait, their sound is orgasmic.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008POFOHM?cache=58b9c80c4073d6688fa166f21682dee6&amp;amp;pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&amp;amp;qid=1409590132&amp;amp;sr=8-6#ref=mp_s_a_1_6

u/Limro · 3 pointsr/VoiceActing

You could go for the Røde NT1 kit which includes a microphone, a shock mount, and a metal pop-filter, and connect it to a Scarlett Focusrite Solo (2. gen). This way you get 24 bit, 48 kHz recordings, which ought to be enough for most of your clients :)

How well does it sound? Well, here's a comparison with the Neumann U47 ($4000 mic).

How come, that such a price difference is so hard hear? The room is treated very well. You can do something like what I did.
I would not recommend a box - it can sound "boxy", but it might work...

u/BadEmpanada · 3 pointsr/thebakery

You can afford to cheap out pretty much everywhere.

Get these first:

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UMC202HD-BEHRINGER-U-PHORIA-2-Channel/dp/B00EK1OTZC?th=1 Audio interface for $40

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Ultravoice-Dynamic-Microphone-Cardioid/dp/B0002KZAKS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=behringer+dynamic+mic&amp;amp;qid=1555465176&amp;amp;s=gateway&amp;amp;sr=8-3 Microphone for $20

Get the cheapest mic stand and xlr cable you can find to go with them.

Use your phone camera (if your phone is actually serviceable and you want to appear in your vids). If not, a decent enough camera to start are the Logitech 1080p hd webcams which go as low as like $40. You can also get good used interchangeable lens cameras for like $200-300 or a new entry level one for $500, if you want to spend some money.

'Procure' a good video editing program in a '''non ethical''' manner (search for 'Vegas 14')

Download Audacity for editing audio (free)

u/11235813213455away · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

You need a USB audio interface with phantom power to get the most out of it. The total still comes out to less than the Yeti.

u/Egsession · 3 pointsr/letsplay

What kind of computer are you using to record your gameplay with?

For audio, a cheap dynamic mic would be a great way to go. It might not sound great initially, but a lot of those problems can be solved easily with software--Audacity is free and easy to use, and makes our recordings sound much better despite the mic's problems. You'll also need an XLR cable to go with it--preferably XLR male to female, but you can also find an XLR to USB one if you want to connect it directly to your PC. Otherwise, you'll need an audio interface to go with it. As for mic stands, I've honestly never had a problem with this one. It's not as easy to maneuver as the 100 dollar one, but it should serve your needs as a beginer.

If you're recording multiple people, you could get the Blue Yeti--a lot of people swear by it--but it's also a lot more expensive and it picks up everything if you're not careful. A lot of people think that the Yeti is cruise control for great audio, but it really doesn't do much more than a cheap mic can. I would just recommend having an audio interface that connects at least two microphones and then buying another dynamic mic instead.

As for recording your Switch, the standard is the Elgato. I'm currently using the HD60 model, which is nice, but it has some latency issues (meaning you'll need to manually sync your audio with your video). The HD60s has no latency problems, but it's a bit more expensive.

u/Durkbeef · 3 pointsr/Guitar

Hey man, I'm gonna go against the grain here. I just spend $50 on one of these and I love it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EK1OTZC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1

I'm a begginer so I don't really know exactly what I need or want yet. So far that thing has covered all my needs and you'll have an extra $100 to spend on other cool stuff. I do play acoustic mostly, but when I use the electric I just use line in from the amp to the interface. No PC effects required.

u/euphoricherron · 3 pointsr/buildapc
u/Alstroph · 3 pointsr/IWantToLearn

I assume you play guitar. I would recommend either Cubase, Reaper, or Ableton for your DAW (digital audio workstation/recording software).

For drums I would recommend either Superior Drummer 2 with the Metal Foundry expansion or Addictive Drums 2

For guitar amp simulation I would recommend either Guitar Rig Peavy Revalver or Podfarm

And finally I would highly recommend a recording interface. The Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 is awesome and you can't go wrong with it.

u/demonic_intent · 3 pointsr/audioengineering

IF you arent trying to spend too much money on it, I'd recommend just heading to a local studio and renting some time to record what you need. That is, unless you are trying to make this a regular thing.

I'll go ahead and throw some links up on what I list as good, low-budget options to get you going.

I'd recommend getting a cardioid condenser mic (AKG AT2020 ~$100), an audio interface with at least one mic preamp and phantom power (Scarlett Solo ~$100), and a pop filter (Audio 2000s AWS4071 ~$10). You'd also need a DAW to edit the tracks, such as cutting out long pauses and words you didn't intend to make into the final cut, and adding a bit of compression and EQ changes. Most likely the audio interface will come with an intro DAW that'll do just enough for what you want to do. For better results you can also pick up an acoustic shield (Monoprice 602650 ~$65) to help isolate the sound, which doesn't seem important just getting into it but once you hear the difference you'll see why its important. Oh, and you'll need to get an XLR cable (~$8) to plug the mic in, but you may or may not want one that's a bit longer than the one I linked.

Something I want to throw in there as well is you'll also probably want to learn how to get on de-essing. In a vocal take, often times an "s" sound will come out very harshly if left unedited. A method to avoid this is to not talk directly into the mic, but slightly off center. Alternatively, you can buy a VST or program that can do it automatically for you. Also, a good thing to do is to reduce noise either through careful automated eq cuts or by using a program such as reafir which can be downloaded for free from the developers here.

If you do get involved with all this craziness, and I know its all pretty intimidating, I'd be happy to help you get on your way to making some great recordings. Just send me a message any time.

u/TheUncleShow · 3 pointsr/VoiceActing

20$ Behringer Ultravoice Xm8500 Dynamic [dont be bothered by the price, listen to YT video reviews and how it sounds], its cheap because its just the mic no accessories.

48$ Shure SM48-LC Vocal Dynamic Microphone [This only better option if you going to actually sing, otherwise for voice the first one sound better, again compare and listen on YT, there are people that do 2-3 mic reviews a week and have hundreds in their review list over the years]

60$ Samson Q2U, the best all-in-one, has both USB and XLR, with this one you dont need to buy anything extra, highly recommend in tens of YT reviews by professionals.

u/Stranger-Sun · 3 pointsr/synthesizers

How are cheap are you talking about? What are you trying to do? Do you want to record with a PC/Mac, or something like an iPad?

&amp;#x200B;

I have a cheap Behringer audio interface that I keep in my travel bag. Since its USB audio is class compliant, I use it with my iPad. The iPad powers it and I can send two channels of audio in to record stuff. Cheap, lightweight, easy to use, and it sounds fine to me.

&amp;#x200B;

Here's something I recently recorded with it. I'm no audio engineer, but I think it sounds good:

https://soundcloud.com/strangersun/comet-head#t=1:33

&amp;#x200B;

Here it is:

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UMC22-BEHRINGER-U-PHORIA/dp/B00FFIGZF6/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=behringer+umc22&amp;qid=1559237676&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3

u/Doomdiver · 3 pointsr/amazonecho

I got this one for the same purpose (without realising the speakers I was trying to connect had an auto-sleep function sigh) but the mixer seems great quality and I've kept it around because it might be handy in future.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Behringer-MX400-Micromix-Noise-Channel/dp/B000KGYAYQ

Apologies for the UK link if you are from elsewhere. You should be able to find the same item on your local store though. As mentioned you'll want to get some 3.5mm-1/4" adapters as well though.

u/ProgHog231 · 3 pointsr/Bass

I have a tiny mixer from Behringer. Run the output from the amp and your laptop each into one of the inputs, and then your headphones into the output. You'll need a male-male 1/8 cable and 1/8-&gt;1/4 inch adapter to plug in your laptop.

Having said that, the suggestion from /u/ChuckEye is simpler, plus you would also have something in the end that would allow you to record yourself.

u/dialpixel · 3 pointsr/youtubegaming

If you really need good quality audio for that price point, I would suggest you look into something that has a detachable cable. The audio technica ATH_M40x headphones are a great option. Then you can add on a Modmic that attaches to the headphones or even get a Blue snowball standalone microphone.

&amp;#x200B;

Audio Technica ATH-M40X - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Audio-Technica-ATH-M40X-Professional-Headphones-Black/dp/B00HVLUR54/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1549866398&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=audio+technica

&amp;#x200B;

Antilon Mod Mic - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Antlion-Audio-ModMic-Attachable-Microphone-Uni-Directional-Mute/dp/B00R98JVVU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1549866832&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=modmic

&amp;#x200B;

Blue Snowball Mic - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Blue-Microphones-Snowball-iCE-Microphone/dp/B006DIA77E/ref=sr_1_5?s=musical-instruments&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1549866907&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=blue+snowball

&amp;#x200B;

&amp;#x200B;

u/yotsuya94 · 3 pointsr/italy

La mia conoscenza si basa sui due modelli che ho a casa: le Audio Technica M40x e un paio di cuffie AKG che avuto insieme al mio S9. E devo dire che quest'ultime sono fantastiche. La mia prima volta che le ho provate, mi si sono alzate le sopracciglia. Non mi aspettavo una qualità simile da un paio di cuffie fornito insieme a un cellulare. Per carità le M40x sono suonano meglio, però la comodità delle in-ear è un qualcos'altro.

Io ti consiglierei le Galaxy Buds, se riesci a trovarle in negozio. Sono la versione migliorata Bluetooth di queste AKG di cui parlavo.

u/ztherion · 3 pointsr/audiophile

The AV40s just dropped in price on Amazon

Another option would be Dayton B652s with an amplifier.

u/EpisodeOneWasGreat · 3 pointsr/audiophile

If you want multiple sound sources to play at the same time, you'll need some kind of mixer before the SMSL amplifier.

That could be a software mixer on the PC (take the 3.5 mm output from the Dot and connect that to line-in).

That could be a simple hardware mixer.

Or you could install Alexa on your PC and not worry about the gadget.

u/smushkan · 3 pointsr/videography

PZMs are pretty decent if you're just using it for 'archival quality' recording, though you may find that children sitting at the front of the room are physically obscuring children behind them from the desktop-mounted microphone which may make kids at the back hard to hear.

You'll get passable results from a PZM, but what I'd use to record this sort of thing is something like a Zoom H1 mounted somewhere high up so it can 'see' all the students. Preferably a Mic stand, but realistically you could just secure it to something tall with tape if budget is an option.

The wide-angle stereo microphones will allow you to capture the entire room, and you'll be able to pick out audio at the back of the room as well as your mom at the front giving the lesson.

Don't be afraid of syncing in post - It's really easy. Just clap once where the camera can see and the microphone can hear, and then it's just a matter of dropping it in to a time line and matching up the waveforms of the recorded audio and the camera's built in microphone audio.

u/Unbiased_Bob · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

$95 Audio technica: https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATH-M40x-Professional-Monitor-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR54/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1467256596&amp;amp;sr=8-5&amp;amp;keywords=audio+technica

$98 Sennheiser: https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-HD-558-Headphones/dp/B004FEEY9A/ref=sr_1_5?s=aht&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1467256628&amp;amp;sr=1-5&amp;amp;keywords=sennheiser

First will feel like the sound is coming from inside your head, second will feel like you're at a concert, both are amazing for their price.

I got really close to your budget, but both companies have alternatives above and below your budget.

u/3agl · 3 pointsr/AdvancedProduction

I recently got a umc 404hd from behringer and it is sick. It runs great on mac and pc and you can take stereo inputs from it in fl studio, ableton, basically any daw. I highly recommend it, and it also has midi in and out as well as xlr out for 1/2, and trs and rca out for 1/2 and 3/4. I managed to snag mine for about $99 and it was a hell of a steal. I have my analog synth in as well as 2 mics and a guitar as my inputs. I highly suggest you look into it if you want to control and capture all the sound coming into your pc. Also, there is the added benefit of having your headphones able to listen to an alternate track that is not your master track. This helps for live performance.

Link BEHRINGER U-PHORIA UMC404HD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QHURLHM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_FZDmybKJS4DWX

It is currently 105$, with prime shipping available. I seriously suggest you get this interface rather than that steinberg one.

u/NickDaNasty · 3 pointsr/Beatmatch

https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-Studio-Monitor-3-inch-CR3/dp/B00KVEIY4E

I use the Mackie Studio Montier 3 inch. Perfect compact size with a great range for sound

u/CrazyLights · 3 pointsr/videography

The H1 zoom is the best. You can stick it on a little tripod and leave it wherever. Definitely within your budget too.

u/WOOKIExCOOKIES · 3 pointsr/synthesizers

I used the older version of this for a while, and while it's not the greatest sound quality, it works and isn't too much money. It has the ability to plug into your computer so you can record.

No experience with this one, but it has decent reviews, is cheap, and would work for what you need with a little room to expand but no USB implementation.

And this is the one I'm currently using and really like. A lot of room to expand here. It has built in effects, but I don't think they sound very good. No USB either, but it's pretty cheap for what you're getting.

Take a look at the inputs on whichever one you decide on, as they may required some adapters (1/8" Stereo to 1/4" dual mono, etc...) to work with your setup. Let me know if you have any other questions.

u/Inappropriate_Comma · 3 pointsr/audioengineering

Every interface I can think of has a 48v phantom power... And you wouldn't need to rely on RCA cables (which are unbalanced) to make it in to your DAW (your Digital Audio Workstation, the software you use to record.. i.e. Ableton, Logic, Cubase, Nuendo, Pro Tools, Reaper, etc.). For $100 you could buy a simple two channel interface with better preamps (marginally, but still better) then the Sampson you purchased that would hook directly to your PC/Mac via USB. For an extra $50 you could get something like the Scarlet 2i2 which will give you 2 solid focusrite pre's and a clean signal path into your computer.

u/WatermelonMannequin · 3 pointsr/synthesizers

You are on the money - syncing the two instruments means getting them to play in the same tempo. If you're looking for a quick, cheap mixer, I use one of these and it works just fine.

u/edocentric · 3 pointsr/recordthis

It really depends on how much you want to spend and what you're planning to do with your setup.

I personally use a Rode NT2-A with a Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 interface (or you could get the Solo and save 50 bucks, but I needed two input ports) and I am pretty satisfied with my setup - I've been using both of them for a whole bunch of paid audiobooks I've done over the years, so they've paid for themselves many times over.

I started out with a Blue Yeti myself, but I decided to change it as soon as I started getting more work. It's not a bad mic, but it's not stellar. When it comes to cheaper USB mics though I'd recommend the Rode NT-USB - my NT2-A broke down over the summer and I was supposed to be recording an audiobook, so I needed a decent replacement until my main mic got repaired. It's slightly more expensive than a Blue Yeti (goes for around $170, while the Yeti is around $100), but I think it's a better quality mic. I still keep my NT-USB at home to use for smaller work that doesn't require going to the studio.

u/NewOrchata · 3 pointsr/edmproduction

In regards to lightening the CPU load, this is not the case.

You can shift most of the workload to a sound card or an interface and gain a ton of slack for your CPU. You can make this upgrade *relatively* inexpensive, but you can easily get into more bells and whistles with external interfaces.

&amp;#x200B;

Here's a few links for some examples:

https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Blaster-Audigy-Performance-Headphone/dp/B00EO6X4XG/

https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-2i2-GENERATION-USB-Recording/dp/B005OZE9SA/

https://www.amazon.com/Steinberg-UR12-USB-Audio-Interface/dp/B00QY4RLRQ/

https://www.amazon.com/PreSonus-AudioBox-USB-96-Interface/dp/B06ZZCR6P4/

Check out this page to get a little more info on how to reduce latency issues while using Ableton for a little more help: https://help.ableton.com/hc/en-us/articles/209072289-How-to-reduce-latency

u/isidor3 · 3 pointsr/audio

It would probably be better than your internal sound card, but if you're really worried about sound quality, you'll need to get a proper recording interface.

u/razzie-dazzie · 3 pointsr/makinghiphop

Yeah I totally agree, excet he's mentioned a new interface in the past and I have that in my shopping cart right now: [Focusrite Scarlett 2i2] (http://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-2i2-USB-Recording-Interface/dp/B005OZE9SA/)
I know he uses Logic and Reason to make his beats and if anything I want to help add something to his pool of equipment that he could capitalize on later.

u/shockroach1985 · 3 pointsr/volcas
u/Yoav420 · 3 pointsr/audioengineering

Thank you for the reply.

Do you think these cheap Behringer MX400 and Behringer HA400 will do the job for band practice?

The only problem is that I have a very convenient record function on my drum module that records the mix in and the drums to a wav file on a SD card, by plugging everything to the mixer I lose this function so maybe I should wire like that:
Bass + Guitar -&gt; MX400 -&gt; Drum module -&gt; HA400 -&gt; headphones.
That way I can record easily while jamming, what do you think?

u/prowler57 · 3 pointsr/livesound

Is the speaker going to be using any kind of amplification in the room? If so, the easiest thing to do might be just to take a split from the live mic into a small USB audio interface. There's tons, something like this: http://www.amazon.ca/Focusrite-2i2-USB-Recording-Interface/dp/B005OZE9SA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1405700687&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=focusrite+scarlett+2i2 would be fine. If there's somebody running sound for the room, they can probably help you with a feed from their board, and maybe setting up a room mic to capture audience sound as well.

If you're all on your own, it might be a little more difficult. Is the focus entirely on one person speaking? If so, one mic close to the speaker is probably going to work best. If there's a lot of involvement from people in the room, it's trickier. You'll need to capture the audience generally to get audience questions, but you'll probably also want a mic on the speaker to put the focus there.

Really, your best bet if they want anything halfway professional is to hire a pro to deal with it.

u/carlmmii · 3 pointsr/Twitch

Well... I can honestly say that's a new one for mic preference. Bravo?

As far as a mount, that mic is light enough that you can pretty much use anything. There's a bunch of identical entry-level scissor mounts, all with the same design/clamp, like this one (hell, there's even one for a couple bucks more that comes with a pop filter). I use this for my own desk setup with an NTG-2, works alright, just know that it has its quirks and can't support anything over maybe a pound without overloading the friction plate.


inb4 PSA1 recommendations for a Disney mic.

u/n4404 · 3 pointsr/hometheater

You need a mixer to combine the two signals.


This mixer combined with these adapters should work.

u/TimeRocker · 3 pointsr/Twitch

Ive been using this Neewer arm for over a year now and it works great.

The only thing I had to do with tighten down the joints on it because of the Yeti's weight, but it works flawlessly for me. You can screw the yeti onto it right at the end by taking off the mic holder. I have my arm attached to a mic stand so I have more options on where I want to move it.

u/ZKSteffel · 3 pointsr/audiophile

http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI

This USB DAC will give you the best bang for your buck until you want to drop big money on stuff. I've been using mine for about 6 months now, and really dig the quality. It's also great for using headphones (if they don't need a dedicated amp), since it's a much higher quality than your typical pc headphone jack. Soundcard's aren't really worth the money, IMO, unless you're gonna try setting up a 7.1 system or something. But with your current setup, the USB DAC -&gt; RCA output -&gt; receiver -&gt; speakers should be solid.

Also, check into building some monitor stands, or stacking some books up to set them on. Getting the tweeters around ear level makes a big difference in the sound at your listening position.

Placement makes a big difference. /u/zeospantera has some nice guides on setup, often referring to this diagram he's drawn up of the suggested placement for a 2.0 system. You can also play around here with different recommendations from around the web with a good visual.

u/Krainial · 3 pointsr/battlestations

I'm using this arm for the snowball:

NEEWER Adjustable Microphone Suspension Boom Scissor Arm Stand, Compact Mic Stand Made of Durable Steel for Radio Broadcasting Studio, Voice-Over Sound Studio, Stages, and TV Stations https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DY1F2CS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ts9WzbYMBPSQE

u/Blais_Of_Glory · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Instead of getting Klipsch, go with either JBL LSR305s or Micca MB42X. As for headphones, are you looking for wired or wireless? I've had great experiences with Sennheiser headphones and you can get them almost anywhere.

u/madbobmcjim · 3 pointsr/linux_gaming
u/IWannaCuddleUrButt · 3 pointsr/audioengineering

That little mixer doesn't have a USB out, so you'd have to go with this little box in stead.

The XM8500 is an alright mic for the $20 price tag, but don't expect too much. To be honest you might be a lot happier with a cheap condenser + pop filter.

I've used both mics when I was starting out. I'd only use the xm8500 in the rehearsal space where the quality doesn't matter. The condenser will sound 'nicer' (i.e. less disappointing when you're trying something for the first time)

I wouldn't call it a 'decent' setup, but should be fun to dick around with for $100.

u/BrunoBrutalos · 3 pointsr/headphones

Im pretty much a newbie. So i wanna buy headphones which i can use on mobile devices and desktop too. They should have a good sound overall and also be fine on desktop for example working with fl studio(im just doing some basic stuff). Price segment is around 150$. So they should be below 50 Ohms so i dont need an amp. My favourites right now are the beyerdynamic DT 770 Pro(32 Ohms) and the Audio-Technica ATH-M50X. I slightly prefer the beyerdynamics. So what do you think?
Here are the links:

beyerdynamics DT 770 PRO(32 Ohm):
https://www.amazon.com/Beyerdynamic-DT-770-PRO-32-Monitoring-Applications-32/dp/B008POFOHM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1485698908&amp;amp;sr=8-3&amp;amp;keywords=beyerdynamic+dt770

Audio-Technica ATH-M50x
https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATH-M50x-Professional-Monitor-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR86/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1485699370&amp;amp;sr=8-3&amp;amp;keywords=audio+technica+ath-m50x

u/disintegore · 3 pointsr/Bass

You need an amplification system of some kind. One very cheap way to go about it is to get a cheap USB interface like this one and to use your computer as an amp sim. On top of that you'll just need a pair of studio headphones (I strongly recommend these) and of course a cable. Total under 50 murrican bucks. Cheap, portable and highly versatile setup. Main downsides are that it can be very difficult to get working for a beginner (especially on Windows) and, well, you need to be wearing headphones unless/until you get decent monitoring speakers.

Of course if you can afford an actual combo amplifier you should get one. Even this is far better than nothing. Same price range. Problem with ultra cheap gear is that you will with 100% certainty want to replace it at some point.

Do not play electric bass unamplified. You will teach yourself to play way too hard in order to be audible, and will miss out on some crucial skills like control over dynamics and tone.

u/blackking023 · 3 pointsr/Reaper

So as another 29yo musician figuring out reaper over the past few weeks. Definitely watch tutorials, how to's, and basic use videos from youtube and stuff posted here. You'll learn way more from doing that faster than you will from poking around. Most of the time i just google something like "Reddit Render Midi track in reaper" and i'll get a link to this sub with a video.

Definitely get an audio interface, i'll help tremendously with overall sound and latency. I think something with two channels will work well for you. You'll most likely only be recording one instrument at a time if you're doing this solo but the option of the second channel will let you record an acoustic performance if you ever want to. I have no brand loyalty so here's a few options, you can do research on them as you see fit or search some out yourself:

UMC202HD , Scarlett 2i2 , AudioBox USB 2x2

Or if you need to be more budget friendly, this guy is a great bang for you buck, however it is only one channel:

Behringer UM2

If you dont have any 1/4" headphones, pick up a 1/4" male to 3.5mm female adapter as well so you can monitor your sound and for playback through the interface. You can find these at bestbuy or somewhere local pretty easily.

You'll want to look at some 3rd party VSTs for effects instead of your phone. I'm currently in the process of trying different free things out, so i don't have too many suggestions unfortunately, but maybe some other people can chime in with their favorites. I'd watch youtube tutorials to learn how to setup and use these. two I could recommend so far are:

MT Power Drumkit 2 - Simple drum VST that allows you to pick from a select of beats in different styles, then once you import them into reaper you can change the beat with the MIDI editor as you see fit. Watch some youtube tutorials on it to get going using it.

AmpliTube Custom Shop - Comes with a few amp, cab, and effect options that should get you going with some guitar sounds. You can also get the demo version of AmpliTube Full and it will run for 30 min, then you have to close and reopen it for it to work again (seems to be a common setup for demo versions of VSTs), but you can get a good bit in 30min if you know what you want going in.

u/MistahJuicyBoy · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales
u/LordGarak · 3 pointsr/linuxquestions

Spotify and cellphones are certainly not high quality audio sources. If your having trouble with a particular sound device on linux you might just want to try a different device.

Are you paying for Spotify? The free version audio quality is pretty terrible. With premium if you set the quality to very high its ok.

The sound interface on most phones isn't all that great. It's optimized for speech and not music. Some phones are better than others.

These are slightly better than your typical built in audio interface and work good under linux:

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-U-Control-UCA202-Ultra-Low-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=behringer+usb+audio&amp;amp;qid=1565255621&amp;amp;s=gateway&amp;amp;sr=8-5

u/mourningyou · 3 pointsr/Guitar

The line in on your soundcard is built for literally pennies. Using it will almost always result in horrible audio, regardless of what software you use. Audacity is fine for recording direct tracks.

The next step up would be to get a usb audio interface, it will sound much better recording through that.

Here is a cheap one:http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1396199199&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=UCA+202

If you can't buy ANYTHING.... well do you have a smartphone? Your smartphone's mic placed 5-10 feet from the amp with a decent volume will sound better than the line in on your sound card. Do a bunch of takes until you find the best placement and amp volume.

u/keanex · 3 pointsr/headphones

Instead of spending $30 on a USB headphone splitter the OP would be much better off in every way buying an actual amp/dac for the same price.

u/orbitaudio · 3 pointsr/audio

What about these?
https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-CR3-Creative-Reference-Multimedia/dp/B00KVEIY4E

80Hz low freq cut off so probably not awesome, but that fits with the $100 budget.

u/aiklfelw · 3 pointsr/audiophile

Yes. That's the exact sound it would make. In that case, a USB DAC would probably help, but it doesn't have to be expensive. Even this would probably be an improvement: http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI

u/BLUElightCory · 3 pointsr/audioengineering

Audio Technica ATH M40x or ATH M50x are both stellar and can hang with headphones that cost hundreds more.

u/Xiode · 3 pointsr/findareddit

/r/edmproduction is a great place to start and to learn, but can be opinionated at times.

/r/AdvancedProduction is good for the complex, nitty-gritty stuff of production.

/r/whitelabels and /r/electronicmusic are good places to get your music heard, once you've had some experience.

 


A few personal words of advice:

Invest in some quality headphones. Audio Technica ATH-M40xs are inexpensive, durable, provide good sound, and have a 2-year warranty.

Don't spam your music, ever. If people aren't interested, you'll only come off as obnoxious.

Don't be afraid to use samples, loops, and bits of other's work, ESPECIALLY when studying another artist's style and experimenting.

Finally: backup, backup, backup. There's little more frustrating than losing your entire 150GB project folder because of a faulty surge protector or a spilled drink.

Good luck.

u/plasticslug · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

Found this link through an older slick deals page, seems to be only through this link and is not searchable through the website. Took 4 days to process, but my headphones shipped today.


~~EDIT: Amazon is dropping them panties as well
http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATH-M40x-Professional-Monitor-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR54/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1449637163&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=m40x~~

u/wordfountain · 3 pointsr/Vive

ATH-M40X or ATH-M50X

Out of the box they are SUPER firm on your head, which makes them extremely uncomfortable after an hour or so, but for shorter demos they'll do an excellent job of blocking out outside sound while also sounding absolutely amazing inside the headphone. The ...'leather' (idk what it actually is, maybe leather?) that the ear muffs are made from would easily be cleaned with alcohol wipes, in case someone is worried about ear germs.

If you plan on giving longer demos, the 'tension' (ear-pressure) mechanism is in the head band. It's just a spring-steel bar. Bend it backwards (GENTLY! Small bends; nudge it till you get it right) will take the bite out of the headphones. They won't clamp as hard, but they'll be more comfortable long term.

u/cjandstuff · 3 pointsr/editors

What's your budget? If you've got Amazon, the Amazon Basics speakers will do for a pinch. https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Powered-Computer-Speakers-A100/dp/B00GHY5F3K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1480363997&amp;amp;sr=8-2&amp;amp;keywords=amazonbasics+speaker If your budget is a little higher, I'd suggest these. The sound is meant to be true to what you're working with, so what you're putting out in audio is what you'll hear. https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-CR-CR3-Reference-Multimedia/dp/B00KVEIY4E/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1480363965&amp;amp;sr=8-3&amp;amp;keywords=studio+monitors

u/drakthorian0294 · 3 pointsr/HeadphoneAdvice

Audio Technica AD500x(114$) - Open Back Headphones

https://www.amazon.com.au/Audio-Technca-Ath-Ad500x-Audiophile-Open-Back/dp/B009S333U4/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_1?keywords=audio+technica+ad500x&amp;qid=1556534148&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-1-fkmrnull

Audio Technica AD700x(144$) - Open Back Headphones

https://www.amazon.com.au/Technica-ATH-AD700X-Audiophile-Open-Back-Headphones/dp/B009S332TQ/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_1?keywords=audio+technica+ad700x&amp;qid=1556534388&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-1-fkmrnull

&amp;#x200B;

Audio Technica M40x(129$) - Closed Back

https://www.amazon.com.au/Audio-Technica-ATH-M40x-Professional-Monitor-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR54/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_2?keywords=akg+m40x&amp;qid=1556533775&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-2-fkmr1

&amp;#x200B;

The difference between open back and close back is that open back headphones have the advantage of having better positional audioBut the disadvantage of typically lower bass quantity(although more accurate) and you can hear people around you(irl). The AD500x and AD700x are probably some of the

best headphones for positional audio at 150$ and below except for the that are a bit more expensive 144$. They also have good higher frequencies meaning that you'll be able to hear footsteps behind you

Where the enemy that shoots at you is located etc.

Closed backs on the other hand typically has a more punchy bass(low end frequencies) but at the sacrifice of positional audio.

&amp;#x200B;

I am sure there are others around that has good alternatives here as well, but those are my picks in that price range.

u/MrGulio · 3 pointsr/buildapc

For gaming he may prefer a closed sound stage.

The ATH-M40X's at $64.99 are a pretty good deal in this price range.

u/_Apex_ · 3 pointsr/makinghiphop

Check out my home studio. Gotta' keep the list building!

List:

u/asdf4455 · 3 pointsr/headphones

I have no idea whether or not it would damage the headphones or if it would even really work, but I'm curious if you have a standalone DAC or DAC/AMP. usually any noise you get from headphones on your computer would be caused by interference in the motherboards on-board audio. If you don't have a dac or dac/amp, consider getting one as it might just eliminate the noise you experience without having to use a device like this. You can get a cheap standalone dac like this or this. Now, idk what version of the DT770 you have, but if it more than the 32 Ohm, you could also consider getting a cheaper DAC/AMP combo from SMSL or FiiO.

u/Antiquary100 · 3 pointsr/Cd_collectors

Not OP, but I think they are the Mackie CR Series CR3 - 3" Creative Reference Multimedia Monitors (Pair) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KVEIY4E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_h.C0xbPGBPA5P.

u/shindiggety · 3 pointsr/microphones

If you're new, let's introduce you to the different types of microphone.

First, there are traditional microphones, and USB microphones.

USB microphones (like the Blue Snowball) don't need additional power or cables apart from the USB cable. The USB cable alone will power the microphone and carry the audio signal fine.

Traditional microphones use XLR cables and require a preamp. If the microphone is a condenser mic, it will ALSO require power which we call phantom power or 48V power.

If you go with a USB microphone, you just need to buy the microphone and that will work fine by itself plugged into your computer. If you decide you want a traditional microphone, you would also need a preamp, and possible phantom power. This is the purpose of an Audio Interface. An Audio Interface such as a Focusrite Scarlett Solo, a Presonus AudioBox iOne, or a Behringer UM2 include the preamp your mic needs, plus phantom power if you are using a condenser mic.

So with a traditional mic, you would need to buy both a microphone and an interface to convert that analog signal to digital, amplify the signal, and provide power to your mic.


I know this is a lot, but I hope it helps you figure some of this out.


If by daily communication, you mean for gaming and skype/chat, I would go for a simple USB mic. There are cheaper options than the Snowball that are also very good. Look at CAD or Samson. Both have good options.

If you have other questions, feel free to send me a pm.

u/ollee · 3 pointsr/Twitch

Can't go wrong with a Behringer. They're specifically what I use. I originally started with console capture, having both PS3 and 360 so I sprung for the xenyx 802 for the extra channels. This is a list of their small mixers. I know a couple people(larger streamers) Running the 502usb...it seems nice. I'm using a 1622fx atm but that's big. I got it second hand at guitar center, it's fairly safe to check what they might have that's small, you might get something cheaper than online, or something better for the same price, but you ARE taking a chance.

Another option if you're going for a traditional XLR mic(since windows mixer w/ OBS/Xsplit is strong for PC gamers) you can get an audio interface. This basically is a piece of equipment that turns your XLR into a usb device. The Behringer 302usb is just an interface/small mixer that looks like it might be nice to use. There are also things like the babyface that is expensive as shit but absolutely wonderful, or the much more budget focusrite that are both solid devices. These are actually best as you're taking balanced audio directly translated into a digital signal through a device designed to eliminate interference, but they can get expensive.

Good audio costs money, but you can alleviate the cost some. Don't by a snowball...get something you can shockmount and popfilter and boom to eliminate ambient noise...that is if you don't have a good mic yet.

^_^

u/2ndRatePianoPlayer · 3 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

Hello! I have a noob question for my setup that probably isn't relevant enough to warrant its own post but it might be simple enough that you could answer real quick.

I just bought these studio monitors:
https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-CR-CR3-Reference-Multimedia/dp/B00KVEIY4E and have the top left L and R inputs connected to my Scarlett 2i4 audio interface (https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-2i4-USB-Interface/dp/B009B15N0Q) in the balanced inputs 1 and 2 on the back right with TRS cables, but now I don't know what to do to actually be able to get my computer to "recognize" them and use them in my DAW or otherwise be able to control them through my audio interface. The monitors themselves work fine because I can still use them with the auxiliary cable plugged directly into my laptop, but that is a temporary fix because then I can't use my audio interface to control them. No idea what to do and I feel so dumb!

Any help would be huge. I'm using a PC with Windows 10 and my DAW is Reason 10 if that helps at all. Thanks!

u/ChuckEye · 3 pointsr/Guitar
u/shamusl · 3 pointsr/audiophile

for the price, this is an excellent DAC. Not $400 quality, but you probably aren't looking for that. Optical out is a big pro btw. http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1325278076&amp;amp;sr=8-1

u/captainvideoblaster · 3 pointsr/giantbomb

&gt; this Blue Yeti set

Lots of people start with that but soon upgrade. You can get better quality mic in a same price range (like Blue XLR models). You still need some kind DAC but those are cheap while giving better sound quality for playback than onboard audio (handy for reviewing audio quality of a game).

u/2old2care · 3 pointsr/audioengineering

You are coming from the stereo output (2 channels) of your mixer. You need an interface with two inputs. You could use the Scalet 2i2, but the Scarlet interfaces are made for microphones, not line-level inputs like your mixer.

All you really need is one of these. Depending on what computer you are using, all you may need is just an RCA to 3.5mm cable like this.

Hope this helps!

u/vkgfx · 3 pointsr/headphones

Maybe someone can correct me, but according to the manual for that receiver, it has an output impedance of 470ohms. That's a bit high for HD800s (and just high in general, like most AVRs jacks).

You're also possibly double amping it by amplifying the signal out of your MacBook and then again in the receiver. I think people tend to overstate this as a problem though.

Apple usually has a good reputation for DACs, but a cheap external DAC like this one will feed a line level signal to your receiver at least. This DAC just got an update with a new DAC IC that people are excited about.

You'll find tons of amp recommendations for the HD800 here so I won't even bother going into much detail.

Ultimately though, if it's loud enough and it sounds good, I wouldn't bother tinkering unless you really want to.

u/MetalVolnutt · 3 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

First of all, thank you so much for such a helpful and detailed answer! I wasn't expecting this kind of awesome comments from everyone!

About the virtual instruments, I was thinking that I would really get inspired if I bought the expensive ones, but you are absolutely right. I'm just starting and probably should try learning everything with the free tools that are available (which don't sound that bad actually). I'll check out everything you recommended, including the audio interface. I just have one question about that. I'm about to buy a new digital piano (This is one of the reasons I started to take interest in the computer compatibility), and since (as you said) those have MIDI ports, should I avoid this interface and buy this one instead, since the first one doesn't appear to be compatible with MIDI? Sorry if this is a very obvious question. I'm a real newbie to this fascinating world and I would really want to make the right decisions, especially since I'm about to spend on a piano already and have limited money for this project (at least for now).

u/Nine_Cats · 3 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

&gt; I will be recording voice, guitar, mandolin, banjo, and some hand percussion, so I am looking to get a mic for vocals, and a mic for the instruments.

You want a condenser and dynamic mic, then. You'll hear people talking about the SM57, which is almost exactly the same as the SM58.

I'm going to recommend this bundle.
There are tons of comparison videos on youtube. The Blue encore 100 is almost exactly the same as the SM58, in fact some people like it more.
The Bluebird is a really great and versatile starter mic. Much better than the Sterling mics... Not even comparable, really.

Okay, so that's $320. Spend the rest of your money on a Focusrite 2i2 recording interface, which has the best preamps of the budget audio interfaces available, and some cables and stands.

You can of course save some money buying used:
Bluebird for $200,
used SM57s go for around $70,
2i2 is closer to $100.


u/Huubidi · 3 pointsr/edmproduction

I mean Imma be real with you, I think you should invest in good headphones. These ATH M40x headphones are great, and they're only 100 bucks. I know 100 bucks may sound like a big investment, but these headphones are actually on the cheaper side, and provide great value for your money. I personally have the ATH M50x headphones, which are maybe like 30 bucks more expensive, but those M40X's are actually even better for mixing, since they have a nice balanced audio response.

Edit: You should also get an external audio interface I recommend this. I have one and it isn't very expensive and works great, very simple to use too.

u/doougle · 3 pointsr/audioengineering
u/priorityliving · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile
u/slash178 · 3 pointsr/Guitar

A Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 is the way to go. Excellent quality at an insanely low price. Plug your amp straight into it.

u/youreoutofthemovie · 3 pointsr/audiophile

Hey /r/audiophile! Three questions for you today.

I have seen the Behringer UCA202 recommended on here a few times for a DAC, but I am considering the UFO202 instead because I want to also be able to record vinyl to my computer. Is this the right choice? Will I still be able to use the UFO202 as a DAC for playback?

Also, if I plug a 3.5mm to RCA cable from the headphone jack of my computer to the AUX input of a receiver (Yamaha CR-450), will I get any additional benefit from adding a DAC, or does the receiver serve as a DAC?

3rd question: If I were to use that same 3.5mm to RCA cable to go from the headphone jack of the UCA/UFO202 to the receiver, would that be just as good as getting an RCA-RCA cable, or would that throw away some or all of the benefit of the DAC in the first place?

Thanks!

u/phys1cs · 3 pointsr/audiophile

For the DAC, I'd suggest the excellent behringer UCA202, but the speakers are by far the most important part of the system. Getting the best speakers might mean going without an external DAC for a while.

u/Pyroraptor · 3 pointsr/letsplay

The Rode podcaster is a REALLY great mic. However, it is also a dynamic mic which has a low sensitivity. It is meant to be used a few inches from your mouth and probably would not be very well suited for picking up multiple people.

The best way to mic multiple people on a single recording is to get several XLR dynamic mics and feed them into a mixing board or preamp. The Akai EIE is great for this because you can have multiple audio streams output to your computer. However, a Behringer Xenyx 1202USB or a Tascam 1200 would work well too. Pair that with a few

If you want to do mic multiple people with one mic then you're looking at a condenser mic. For the price of your podcaster($230) I have a few suggestions. I would still look at getting an XLR setup, because they are much better IMO.

u/mrgeologyguy · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales
u/Brocktar · 3 pointsr/headphones
  1. You are going to need at least the Magni 2 uber to connect the powered monitors (preamp out) this will more than power the HD600's and the powered monitors (Audioengine 2+) have there amp internal so that is covered.
  2. the Magni 2 uber switches to your headphones when you plug them in. just remember to turn the volume down when ever you plug or unplug the headphones as the volume on one may be way different than the other.

    One final thing - Have you looked at the JBL 305s? If you have the desk space these are way better powered monitors than the 2+ they are $134 each and well worth it
    https://www.amazon.com/JBL-LSR305-Studio-Monitor/dp/B00DUKP37C
u/Ghost_Pack · 3 pointsr/audio

First double check that your PC doesn't have a combo jack (3.5mm analog and 3.5mm optical in the same port). a lot of modern PCs (especially macs) have this and if that's the case this is your best bet for audio. This is what you'd want.

&amp;#x200B;

If you're using HDMI output (especially if you're using a receiver or multiple HDMI inputs), something like this is a good choice.

&amp;#x200B;

If not, your next best bet is a internal soundcard with optical output (like this one) if it's a desktop, or an external USB soundcard with an optical output if it's a laptop (like this one).

&amp;#x200B;

If neither of these work, and/or you're on a device that only has a 3.5mm analog output and nothing else, you can use one of these with one of these adapters. It's known as an analog to digital converter (ADC) and will take in analog (RCA/3.5mm) and convert it to a digital format like optical. This isn't super recommended, as it add extra conversion steps to the process and will reduce the sound quality of your soundbar somewhat unless you pay out extra money for a high quality professional ADC.

u/grey_sky · 3 pointsr/Music

JBL Active Monitor - $150 Amazon Price

Read up on how powerful these budget speakers are. It's insane the quality that these suckers perform at! That said, you'd have to look into getting a subwoofer down the line but they can perform without one. A nice budget subwoofer is Polk Audio PSW10 10-Inch - $101 Amazon which is a steal at that price point. Polk's have built a solid reputation in the audiophila world and are quite the reliable little beasts.

u/polypeptide147 · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

You're looking at the wrong stuff here. All of these are going to sound terrible.

USB DAC. That way you can plug into the computer via USB.

From there, go into a Lepai amp and Dayton speakers. This setup will sound so much better than the ones you were looking at.

u/Zeeall · 3 pointsr/audiophile

It also doesnt do USB, making it useless for many.

&amp;#x200B;

Here is a decent USB DAC:

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-U-Control-UCA202-Ultra-Low-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/

u/SHiZNiLTi_OG · 3 pointsr/headphones

Cheap, but has lasted 1 year now no issues with noise or anything else..

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C86FA0E/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DY1F2CS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Also this is probably the best quality USB mic you will find, rivals the Yeti. Remember to always run USB mics on a POWERED USB hub for zero feedback noise...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GHOM67W/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

u/bp_jkm79 · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

same price on amazon

u/ctfrommn · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Great bass for 220 USD isnt going to be easy. If you can stretch your budget a little, these used would be by far your best bet.

https://www.amazon.de/gp/offer-listing/B00DUKP37C/ref=sr_1_1_olp?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1493673270&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=jbl+lsr305+studio+monitor

u/djkoolstorm · 3 pointsr/cuemusic

https://www.amazon.com/BEHRINGER-U-Control-Low-Latency-Interface-Digital/dp/B000KW2YEI?crid=1RLE08EIBRMC&amp;keywords=behringer+audio+interface&amp;qid=1537566551&amp;sprefix=behringer%2Caps%2C162&amp;sr=8-10&amp;ref=sr_1_10Get one of these then use the controller output into the usb souncard rca inputs the pc will pick it up as an USB input so will B.U.T.T i actually own one and it works great .

u/HarryTheCaveman · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Connect your laptop to this DAC with USB, then connect that with a pair of red and white phono leads to an amp like this or this which will power your speakers. There are loads of little amps like that on eBay that can be had for very little money if you're willing to wait for delivery from China vs getting one from a UK 3rd party, (my SA-50 was £33 and took about 3 weeks to arrive.)

u/sk9592 · 3 pointsr/buildapc

So you have a couple of different options.

You can get a PCIe sound card with an optical output on the back:

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/zRckcf/asus-sound-card-xonardgx

Or a USB audio interface:

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-BEHRINGER-U-CONTROL/dp/B000KW2YEI/

I personally prefer USB based options. They are easier to swap between computers if you need to do that.

u/Xn007 · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Yeah, o-rings don't do much to any switch from my experience. And if you've got Razer Greens, which are pretty close to Blues, there is no muting that click sound. Especially with a Yeti, that even picks up my board that's as silenced as I can get it. This mic stand made a huge difference in vibrations/sound quality honestly though.

But you need a non-clicky keyboard mainly, with either tactile or linear switches.They're a lot quieter already than clickies.

You can also get silenced versions of both with rubber dampers inside, like Cherry Silents, or Aliaz, Zilents, but the latter silent tactiles are not available in pre-builts - only on hotswap boards like the Glorious Modular, Massdrop CTRL, or with some soldering. And parts for larger boards are rare, if you want TKL or larger, buy one of the previously mentioned boards.

u/AndrewLucksNeckBeard · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Go for a used pair of active KRK, Roland, or Yamaha studio monitors. If you're patient I bet you could find a steal for ($100-$150) on craigslist. Hook em up with a behringer usb audio interface (used as well) and toslink digital cable. You could get a MUCH better setup for around $150.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/KRK-Rokit-5-G3-RP5G3-5-Active-Powered-Studio-Monitor-Speaker-White-/181573222913?pt=US_Pro_Audio_Speakers_Monitors&amp;amp;hash=item2a469b8201

http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI

u/R39 · 3 pointsr/headphones

Yes. /u/I_eat_mangoes is pointing you in a good direction. Definitely need an amp. I also recommend looking into the O2 or the O2+ODAC Combo. I've heard really good things about both. The Schiit Stack - Magni and Modi - are a little less expensive. The nice thing about them is you can just get the amp at first and add on the DAC later if needed.

I have a UCA202 floating around somewhere, and the sound is surprisingly good for the money. It certainly might be all the DAC you need.

If you can only afford one thing, I would get whatever amp you can afford and add a DAC later.

u/PaperCutRugBurn · 3 pointsr/Twitch

I use THIS boom arm. There's a small black piece that unscrews from the mic holder part that can screw into the bottom of the Meteor. For the price, this thing has worked amazingly well. I'm able to keep the gain low (as to not pick up ambient noise) and can position in it in between myself and my keyboard, yet not covering my face.

u/LD5ifty · 3 pointsr/makinghiphop

I know you said under $100, but I've never known anyone to regret spending that little bit extra on a set of cans (except people who bought Beats™). Assuming you're going to be using them for mixing work as well as leisurely listening, I can highly recommend [Sennheiser's HD 380s] (http://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-380-Pro-Collapsible-Professional/dp/B001UE6I0G). There are very few other products in your price range that compare.

When you have a little extra scrilla on hand, I also recommend picking up one of these so you can boost the output level to the 380s. The power, clarity, and control offered by this combination is an amazing value.

u/RatherNott · 3 pointsr/linuxhardware

Like /u/ulgreswo, I used a different card; the Xonar DG. In my case, it did work under linux alright, but I'd always have to tamper with a setting under alsamixer in the terminal to get it to output sound on any fresh install of linux. Not sure if the DGX would be any different in that regard.

Also the audio-quality wasn't really all that spectacular, as I would still get buzzing and beeps due to interference from the LAN port.

In the end, I sold it and instead replaced it with this external USB DAC (Digital to Analog Converter), which was very affordable, and put out excellent sound. This particular DAC interested me due to the well written review on the Amazon page from Jayteck, where he describes replacing the capacitors on the board for even better sound quality. I followed the instructions contained in the comments, and found that it does indeed sound quite superb when these modifications are done (though it sounded better than the Xonar DG even without the mod).

Alternatively, I've also read great things on various audio enthusiast forums about this Behringer DAC, which is also quite affordable.

Due to using USB, both of those DAC's are plug-n-play with Linux, and require absolutely no configuration to get working. The only potential downside is that they do not have microphone inputs, and only output stereo audio.

u/humbled · 3 pointsr/audiophile

Just buy the Behringer UCA202 and be done with it.

It's only $30. It has great quality for the price. It has a headphone jack (and volume potentiometer) as well as RCA line-outs for going to a line-input (NOT pre-outs - use in conjunction with a preamp/receiver). It also has optical out for direct digital passthrough, should you decide to get a better DAC in the future.

u/e60deluxe · 3 pointsr/hometheater

ok, your desktop PC should have a blue plug at the back:

http://i.imgur.com/sXF0D.png

plug the console into this port with the adapter.

now, connect the speakers to the green as usual.

go into your sound properties on your computer:

for windows 7 it would be control panel -&gt; sounds -&gt; manage audio devices

click on recording and you should see the line in option. turn on listen to this device. now, when you do that, you can see it pop up in the volume control. open volume control in the bottom right near the clock and click mixer. you can control how loud the console is in comparison to the PC sounds.

http://i.imgur.com/sS7Tr.png

if you dont want to do all of this PC fiddling, you need to get a mixer:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009XH4HU/

which does the same thing, but has more inputs and does not rely on the PC.
if you want more inputs for your pc, you need to get something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KW2YEI/

which will add one more stereo input.

u/Novux · 3 pointsr/macsetups

Amazon link here, some reviewers specifically mention using it with a Blue Yeti, so you should be good.

u/jackemrys · 3 pointsr/audio

An interface goes between an audio source and a computer. It converts an analog signal to digital, and sends it to your PC via USB, FireWire, thunderbolt.

In your situation, iPad-&gt;interface-&gt;computer.


An interface is the correct solution. Using your line input on your computer is an option and may work, though.

Ninja edit: you would plug in what you call an aux cable to your iPad and something like this

Double edit: even cheaper

u/Zero_Heart · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

I bought this for it, Really like it for streaming and recording gameplay stuff.

u/GinkoWeed · 3 pointsr/microphones
u/brunerww · 3 pointsr/videography

Hi /u/saientific - the Zoom H4n has noisy preamplifiers - if you decide to go with a Zoom, you may want to consider the [£229 Zoom H5] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&amp;amp;pub=5575034783&amp;amp;toolid=10001&amp;amp;campid=5337235943&amp;amp;customid=&amp;amp;icep_item=181460355481&amp;amp;ipn=psmain&amp;amp;icep_vectorid=229508&amp;amp;kwid=902099&amp;amp;mtid=824&amp;amp;kw=lg) instead.

If budget is an issue, you may want to consider the less expensive [£69 Zoom H1] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B003QKBVYK/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;camp=1634&amp;amp;creative=19450&amp;amp;creativeASIN=B003QKBVYK&amp;amp;linkCode=as2&amp;amp;tag=hybrcamerevo-21). This recorder has a single 3.5mm mic input instead of the more expensive recorders' twin XLR inputs, so you will need a [£22.91 Hosa MIT-156 XLR to 3.5mm transformer/adapter] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00FC4YR58/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;camp=1634&amp;amp;creative=19450&amp;amp;creativeASIN=B00FC4YR58&amp;amp;linkCode=as2&amp;amp;tag=hybrcamerevo-21) in order to accept input from professional mics such as the [£148 Rode NTG-2 shotgun mic] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00093ESSI/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;camp=1634&amp;amp;creative=19450&amp;amp;creativeASIN=B00093ESSI&amp;amp;linkCode=as2&amp;amp;tag=hybrcamerevo-21).

No matter which recorder you buy, you should also invest in a set of [£69 Sony MDR7506 monitoring headphones] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000AJIF4E/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;camp=1634&amp;amp;creative=19450&amp;amp;creativeASIN=B000AJIF4E&amp;amp;linkCode=as2&amp;amp;tag=hybrcamerevo-21) to prevent surprises in the editing suite.

With your recorder, headphones, shotgun, a [£9 shock mount] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00KXQIY86/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;camp=1634&amp;amp;creative=19450&amp;amp;creativeASIN=B00KXQIY86&amp;amp;linkCode=as2&amp;amp;tag=hybrcamerevo-21), a [£69 Rode boom pole] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00139PYEY/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;camp=1634&amp;amp;creative=19450&amp;amp;creativeASIN=B00139PYEY&amp;amp;linkCode=as2&amp;amp;tag=hybrcamerevo-21) and good technique you will be able to get the microphone to within a meter of your actors/interviewees and record high quality sound.

Hope this is helpful and best of luck with your venture into videography!

Bill

u/dozens_of_us · 3 pointsr/audiophile

zed is on point with what hes saying. I would add that the 8050 seems to be pretty similar to the 8255 in terms of the quality of sound reproduction. ie same THD. The 8050 does have more power and the bells and whistles that zed mentions.

You need to check out your computer first. What kinda of sound card you have and if you need a better DAC. If not do you have digital out for sound. As far as I know most laptops dont have a digital out so you would still "need" a USB DAC. (You might find that the integrated sound card does the job and you can use the headphone out on the computer.

Personally I look for barebones stuff for an amp/reciever and I would prolly go for the 8255 and save the $100 difference. Then you could see if the headphone out works out well enough and if not grab a DAC.

u/H1Javelin · 3 pointsr/headphones

Audio technica m40x + boom mic is a solid combo. Will run you $97 + tax on amazon prime. Boom mic lists m50x but the connectors for the m40x and m50x are identical.

m40x

Boom Mic

u/sh3rog · 3 pointsr/audiophile

Sounds like your line level is a bit low - maybe a poor output from your soundcard?

I recommend dropping like 30$ and getting this http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI to see if that doesn't help your problem.

I'm guessing the dynamic range on the output for your sound card isn't great and music tends to be on the louder side so the issue isn't as apparent there.

Also could be poor noise floor on your amp - solve this by putting an inline pre-amp (to raise your signal level for quiet material) or unless you have a real high power amplifier (explaining the poor noise floor) I'd just grab a T-Amp or a cheap stereo amp like this http://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-DTA-1-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B001PNOH2I/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1346872929&amp;amp;sr=1-2&amp;amp;keywords=t+amp (lower power higher fidelity). I say this because you will have to remember to turn the pre-amp down for louder material to avoid breaking your amp (it may not care, but more than likely you will damage it if your signal input gets too high)

or this http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PCA1-30-Watt-Stereo-Amplifier/dp/B0012KZNP4/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1346873001&amp;amp;sr=1-2&amp;amp;keywords=2+channel+amplifier (little more power, probably not as good SQ but it is well enough reviewed, and I'm sure there is probably minimal audible noise at listening levels)

Also could be noise from your soundcard output - if you unplug the signal cable from the amp is the hiss still present? if not just grab that behringer dac I linked to above and it will sort you out

u/Amidaryu · 3 pointsr/hardware

I could recommend a 7.1 card, and if you must have a 7.1 sourround headset, this is a fairly swell soundcard it: Asus Xonar DS

Having done as you ask, let me ask something. Do you really need a gimmicky 7.1 Headset? Because that's what it is: a gimmick. The individual drivers in the headset will not only be smaller (and thus lose any quality in bass, and be incredibly tinny in higher trebles), but the incredibly limited space for driver placement (opposed to how with a home theater, you have the entire room to place the speakers for surround) in the headphones, meaning that you'll find it incredibly difficult to actually discern the direction of a given sound in the 3d environment of a game, making the feature ever so slightly pointless.

Infact, in my experience (I've owned both a Turtlebeach 5.1 headset, and a 7.1 Razer Megalodon), even software virtualization techniques (for example, Dolby's Pro Logic software) beat a given 7.1 equipped headset in ability to make clear the direction of a given sound.

As many no doubt will recommend you do in this thread, I must recommend you pick up a quality set of headphones, and this is a good place to start looking for one. Along with that, I'd recommend you get a quality DAC (Digital-to-Analog converter, they function kind of like soundcard, but offer alot of benefits over a sound card, at the price of being outside the computer) such as this.

Of course, it's all subjective, and there's no way for me to convince you of the lovemaking-sounds a high quality set of headphones (with a DAC) can provide, without your experiencing it yourself. Whatever you decide to do, best of luck to you.

u/RememberMeWelll · 3 pointsr/Monstercat

If you're on a budget get these. If you're willing to spend a bit more, get these. They're a bit more expensive, but the bass is soooo good. I've never experienced such good headphones. Worth the extra money in my opinion. Also never buy beats again. you can get much better for the same price, or the same quality for much less;)

u/dualactioncomplete · 3 pointsr/FL_Studio

2 things:

  • Do you use an Audio Interface? If you aren't, you may have issues as most laptop/desktop headphone A/D converters and preamps are terrible.

  • You stated your budget was £100, I can think of two workhorses that are budget staples of the industry.

    Sony MDR-7506

    Audio-Technica ATH-M40X
u/pocketmnky · 3 pointsr/PSVR

The problem with the design of the PSVR is that although you really want a set of closed over-ear headphones like the Audio Technica M40x, they tend to not exactly fit underneath the strap quite perfectly if you have a fat head (like mine) or if you use thick replacement ear cups for better sound quality. Sure things sound amazing and immersive but it's not exactly the most comfortable option.

I've also tried Phillips SHP9500s which sound amazing (especially for their price) but again, you'll run into a situation where it might not fit perfectly tucked under the head band of the PSVR headset. These actually work well for me, but not so much for my son. The only complaint I have with them is that they are open headphones so I hear the outside world extremely easily.

Honestly, unless you're swapping the PSVR around frequently, I would say that a good set of ear-buds are going to be your best bet for isolating and giving you quality sound while not being too uncomfortable. Unless you just hate earbuds.

u/_elote · 3 pointsr/Amd

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KW2YEI

Saved you ‭$200.01‬ American dollars and you get a better product for a low price of $28.99.

u/provideocreator · 3 pointsr/videography

With the Rebel T6, there is no way to connect a microphone, regardless of whether it is wired or wireless. What you can do is use something like an external audio recorder. If you just want to use the audio recorder with its own microphone or with a 3.5mm microphone input, you can get a Zoom H1. If you also require the use of an XLR microphone, you would need a Zoom H4n. Both of these devices can be used with or without an external microphone (they have built in microphones that are better than the camera's). But, you WILL have to sync the audio in POST. The audio will be recorded completely separate from the camera and there is absolutely no way to connect them while recording, but it's easy to do in editing software after.

u/ReginaldGrey · 3 pointsr/makinghiphop

get an audio interface and monitor speakers. the audio interface will allow you to record any instrument/mic that uses an instrument cable or an XLR cable. make sure you get one with the right amount of inputs u want. if you JUST wanna record vocals, you can get a pretty cheap single-input interface on amazon for like $40. here's a pretty good cheap one that you can also hook monitor speakers up to with the Left and Right outputs in the back.
(https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UMC22-BEHRINGER-U-PHORIA/dp/B00FFIGZF6/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1519988949&amp;amp;sr=8-8&amp;amp;keywords=behringer+interface). For monitor speakers, I've only ever used KRK rokits. I have the 8" and the 5" ones. Obviously I like the 8" better but the 5" ones are still very accurate and impressive. you can go to a guitar center or whatever and listen to a bunch of different brands though if you wanna hear for yourself before you buy. and if you have any leftover money, save it for after you find out what your ideal production workflow is. i personally use maschine and it does everything i could ever want and more, but it might not work out for you. i'd say the interface and speakers will elevate your game instantly and will lead to producing better quality music.

u/rabidfurby · 3 pointsr/audio

Basically, there's two components to think about. An amplifier takes power and audio input (as stereo RCA plugs or a 1/8th inch jack) and outputs amplified audio (almost always as binding posts or clamps for speaker wire). Speakers take amplified audio as input (again, as binding posts/clamps for speaker wire) and make noise.

Active or powered speakers just means that you're buying the amp and the speakers integrated as one unit. M-Audio AV40s are a good example of this. Scroll down and you can see a picture of the back of one speaker. Power cord, RCA inputs, and speaker wire output to the other speaker.

Passive/unpowered speakers mean you're just buying the speakers, and you need to buy an amp separately. A good example of this is the Micca MB42x and Lepai LP-2020. Again, look at the back of each one to get an idea of how they're connected.

If you want simplicity, go for a pair of powered studio monitors. However, what you trade off with that is upgradeability - because monitors are integrated all-in-one, you can't easily add to them later on.

If you want to go the component route, I'd recommend a 2.1 amp (meaning it has outputs for 2 speakers plus a subwoofer) such as the Lepai 168HA. Add in some unpowered bookshelf speakers like those Micca MB42x, and you've got a great system for less than half your budget. Depending on how much room you have on the floor near your desk, you can also add a subwoofer, either now or at some point down the road. The Dayton Audio SUB-800 for example is small enough to fit under a desk pretty easily, and would still be within your budget.

u/nicolass1101 · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

A better combo would be a mic and headphones. Here's a good mix.

Mic

Headphones

u/FirstAidKoolAid · 3 pointsr/bapcsalescanada
u/iansteele · 3 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

So when recording vocals and guitar at the same time, like you'd like to do, the debate on what to do is really about how much control you want over editing in the end process.

- If you don't care about control on the individual levels of guitar and vocals AND want to record in one take with both instruments, all you need is one mic, XLR, Mic stand, headphones, and an interface to get the signal into your computer.

In this situation, you need A. and Interface that is cheap but not a POS because it really affects the sound of your recording. Behringer makes a cheap interface for 1 Input (microphone) and actually has a decent Preamp in it. B, you need a microphone and cable (XLR, Balanced) to capture the sound and send it to the interface. This area people could talk forever about, but for just getting the job done and a decent sound, AT2020 Condenser (Currently On Sale) is a great option for capturing both your voice and guitar. any XLR will do $10 or something like that.

- If you wanted to track the guitar and vocals separately, one at a time, the only change I would make is the microphone. Shure SM57 would do great for vocals and guitar individually. There have been many singles and albums in the rock, acoustic, and folk category recorded on these mics alone with fantastic results.

&amp;#x200B;

- If recording the guitar and the vocals at the SAME TIME is the route you want, it's definitely possible. 2 Input interface, Two mics, Two XLR's, Two Mic stands, headphones.

- a change in interface is needed from the first behringer to this one because they have the same sound only difference is the amount of inputs for ~$50 more. Next would be buying two microphones, both options listed above are probably going to be the cheapest you'll find with a decent sound. You can find packages like this on guitar center and other audio retailers, but the mics come with a lot of bad frequencies in my opinion, but hard to argue $99 for two microphones. get the cables, plug everything up and record enable two live tracks in you preferred DAW.

&amp;#x200B;

As far as the computer goes, Ableton hands out free versions of its "lite" program, and I believe you can record in that version. That would be the best route in my opinion for DAW, Reaper is a good option, I'd stay away from fruity loops if you are mainly just going to be recording audio.

Most of these solutions will put you under or around $250 so I hope this helps, if you have more questions let me know.

u/zeagan · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

5" Swans D1010-iv for $139 would be near the top of my list. Nicer fit and finish than the Miccas, more grown up looking than the Mackie's and basically everything Edifier makes is just a Swans clone anyway.

u/DZCreeper · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Given your budget and space available I have a suggestion and it isn't surround sound. Reason being is that doing it well is expensive and doing it cheap just makes it inferior to a well setup system with fewer speakers.

https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-CR-CR3-Reference-Multimedia/dp/B00KVEIY4E

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0063NU3AA

Small studio monitors + a dedicated 10" subwoofer. Good amounts of detail, a night and day difference vs what you have now. You will need a 3.5mm output, split into RCA lines. You will then need to split said RCA lines and run one set to the subwoofer and another to the studio monitors.

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMR-206-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B000068O33

https://www.amazon.com/CableWholesales-Audio-Piggyback-Cable-Female/dp/B000I98ZE6

u/beley · 3 pointsr/podcasting

I did some testing with multiple USB microphones and was able to setup a virtual audio device in Mac OS and Windows. They were different microphones, but I would assume if they were the same make/model it would have worked as well. The quality was okay, but you've got a lot of room for interference and bandwidth issues on the USB bus doing it this way. What I did and what I recommend you do is move to XLR microphones and a USB audio interface. I have the Scarlett 2i2 but for more than 2 XLR inputs you'd need to upgrade to a 4 or 8 port version. This Behringer 4-port interface is only about $129. Then you'd just need 3 XLR microphones, I have the MXL 770 which goes on sale pretty regularly for about $65. The Audio-Technica AT2020 is also a great choice under $100. The ATR2100 is also a surprisingly good podcasting mic and has both XLR and USB output.

u/MiEsAmericano · 3 pointsr/vinyl

My setup is literally two pieces of equipment. It seems expensive, but if you sell some textbooks to amazon, you can easily knock about a hundred fifty bucks off the total cost. This isn't audiophile equipment, but it's solid, it's a good place to get started, it's relatively cheap, and it'll sound a million times better than whatever you'd get at best buy or urban outfitters for the same price.

Speakers: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0051WAM64/

Turntable: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002S1CJ2Q/

Of course, if you can, go vintage.

u/carllimbacher · 3 pointsr/Bass

I think that piece of kit is just a mixer and won't work as an interface to for recording.

Luckily, Behringer makes an even less expensive mixer/interface that will do exactly what you're looking for: http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-302USB-Premium-5-Input-Interface/dp/B005EHILV4/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1407273279&amp;amp;sr=8-9&amp;amp;keywords=behringer

u/sammisaran · 3 pointsr/malelivingspace

I just bought these from Amazon, but don't have them at my place yet so I can't give a full review, but they are the top seller on Amazon and seem to fit what you're looking for.

http://amzn.com/B00KVEIY4E

u/jparkerwillis · 3 pointsr/AskGames

If you get a mixer you can plug any old headphones into it and get really good quality sound out of them.
But if you're looking for a headset I doubt you'd find a good quality one for $80. Definitely don't buy Logitech headsets. They break really easily due to how the ears swivel where they connect.
If you had the money and didn't wreck your headsets I would especially recommend the Sennheiser PC363D. Sennheiser make some awesome headphones.

u/RaN96 · 3 pointsr/ImSavingUpForThis

Don't buy a Yeti!! Blue mics are generally overpriced and offer the same quality that a cheaper alternative will get you. Get an AT2020 XLR and a phantom powered mixer. It'll be much much better than a Yeti and you can fine tune your audio settings with the mixer. If you don't want to deal with a mixer there is a USB version of the AT2020 that should save you $30.

There's also this bundle for $180 that comes with a Windtech Windscreen (Which is awesome, I use it on my AT2035) a pair of headphones and the AT2020 USB+.

u/erniuss · 3 pointsr/buildapc

as the above guys said the usb audio interface you gonna have couple advantages, basically if you ever planing to upgrade into studio speakers or so, you already gonna be having audio interface, and for studio speakers audio interface its must have thing otherwise you losing more than half of the speakers quality , same goes for microphones, if you ever consider buying some microphone and it has XLR connection, or even 3.5mm jack, you can buy adapter to get XLR or so , and even for some £20 microphone you gonna have pretty clear and more than enough quality for skype talks or so , and it would be many times better than directly plugging into your motherboard or front 3.5m socket. / and the last one its what you need the Headphones quality, usally if you buy headphones for few hundread bucks or so, and you using 3.5mm jack to plug into your motherboard, you losing more than 50% of your audio quality , So with some certain interface you can get the full of your headphones/speakers/mics etc. So for audio interfaces you can go for https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-U-PHORIA-UM2-BEHRINGER/dp/B00EK1OTZC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1484581921&amp;amp;sr=8-2&amp;amp;keywords=usb+audio+interface that would be the most basic and it would do the job more than enough. The 2 more choices is either M audio or Scarlete , m audio : https://www.amazon.com/M-Audio-M-Track-2X2-Interface-24-bit/dp/B01FFH5XMC/ref=sr_1_21?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1484581921&amp;amp;sr=8-21&amp;amp;keywords=usb+audio+interface thats also one of their newest audio interfaces , and it has pretty good design doesnt it ? :P The other one https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Audio-Interface-Tools/dp/B01E6T56CM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1484581921&amp;amp;sr=8-3&amp;amp;keywords=usb+audio+interface , its literally up to you which one you prefer, you can go for more basic option if you not planing to get some expensive pair of speakers or so , if you thinking that you might get some KRK studio monitors or so you can pick one of them 2 £100 worth audio interfaces , the quality between m audio and focusrite wont be noticeable . But to mention again if you literally need it only for those headphones and you not planing to get anything in future just go for the 50 usd audio interface and you will be more than happy :) ( sorry for not fluent english hopefully you can understand )

u/MisterJellybean · 3 pointsr/audio

You will likely want an actual audio interface.

Behringer has a number of cheap USB mixers. That will give you a simple EQ, gain, and simple mixing with physical knobs. This might be better to learn on?

Edit: for a little more, this one would give you a few more features to play with and learn on, and give you more capacity down the road if you get into it a little more.

u/battering_ram · 3 pointsr/audioengineering

You need an audio interface. You don't need that phantom power supply. I don't know why they even sell that shit as a bundle. It just confuses people.

GET THIS. It's what everyone here recommends for beginners. It connects to your computer via USB. It has a built in preamp, phantom power, and a headphone jack as well as RCA outputs on the back if you want to hook up speakers. Just plug you mic directly into the mic input on the front, turn on phantom power, adjust the gain with the gain knob and you're good to go.

If you want two mic inputs GET THIS. It's also got balanced outputs on the back if you ever decide to get studio monitors.

u/BL4CK_CAT · 3 pointsr/singing

Don't get a USB-Condenser Microphone. Yeah they are easy to handle, but you will need a XLR-Interface if you get any Type of "better" Mic in the Future.
A USB-XLR Interface is not really expensive, and is a one-time buy. If you know you'll only do Vocals, just get something like the Scarlett Solo or similar.

For Mics: the Rode NT1-A is an absolute classic for Voice/Vocals, because it offers a lot of Value for the Money and you can Record basically everything with it. Also, it's cheap. If it's not cheap enough, the AKG P120 is even cheaper, but imho the NT1a is worth the money.

And: don't forget a stand and a pop-filter (you can build one yourself, just google diy-popfilter)

u/belak51 · 3 pointsr/buildapc

The SM57 is a pretty good mic... The problem is most likely the adapter. And the fact that you have less control over the gain of the mic. Dynamic mics shouldn't need phantom power, but I've only used adapters like that when running one into a real mixer. And if you're considering an adapter like that, something like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E6T56CM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_36RzybA61JRPK would be a much better option. I'm using a larger version of the same thing to run my audio when streaming.

I realize it's a long shot but if you're in the San Francisco bay area, I've got a few extra USB audio interfaces I don't need

u/Turbosack · 3 pointsr/SiegeAcademy

First of all, the feature that the other commenter is referring to is probably Discord's attenuation feature, which lets you turn down the volume of other applications on the system while you are speaking. That may work for you, but it's not the same as monitoring.

Second, as you noted, Windows' builtin monitoring feature has enough latency that it's essentially useless. If you don't already own a headset that supports monitoring, then the only way to do this properly is with an audio interface (for example; there are probably cheaper ones that would work, I just don't know a good one off the top of my head). They can do monitoring without latency because they send the sound directly back to your headphones, without doing a round trip through the computer.

u/ProtectYaShek · 3 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

Well here's where it depends on what you want to do with the recordings after the initial recording. If you aren't looking to mix and edit the individual instrument tracks afterwards, you could use the 8 mic inputs on your mixer, and output the audio to your pc via a usb interface like the Focusrite 2i2:
https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-2i2-GENERATION-USB-Recording/dp/B005OZE9SA

Now miking exerything up: You've got Bass and keys which could easily be lined directly into the mixer. For vocals, you're looking for a straightforward dynamic micropohone, a common workhorse is the SM-58 or SM-57, now at around $100 this might be more than you are looking to spend, but then again, you can never go with a 58 or 57. If you wand a good budget clone, I'd look at the $35 GLS ES-57 https://www.amazon.com/GLS-Audio-Instrument-Microphone-ES-57/product-reviews/B001W99HE8/ref=cm_cr_dp_see_all_btm?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;showViewpoints=1&amp;amp;sortBy=recent
For guitar, again the industy workhorse is the SM-57, so again you could grab another ES-57, and move on to the Drums.
You've got 4 channels left, so You're probably going to want Kick, Snare, and 2 overheads.
Kick drum you probably want to go with something with a larger element, and while nothing extraordinary, Cad makes a couple kick mics for around 40 bucks https://www.amazon.com/CAD-Audio-KBM412-Microphone-Cardioid/dp/B0002D0Q7W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1474769856&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=Kick+drum+microphone
Snare, grab another ES-57, as an SM-57 would be the go to.
Overheads, If your mixer can supply phantom power, there's a plethora of small diameter condenser microphones to choose from. For $100 you can get a set of Monoprice condensers and while you're not going to blown away by the sound, for $100, they'll be more than enough in this situation. https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=600700

Add in 6 15' mic cables at 10 bucks a piece via monoprice https://www.monoprice.com/category?c_id=115&amp;amp;cp_id=11509&amp;amp;cs_id=1150902 - 4 1/4 cables for the bass, keys and to go from your mixer output to the audio interface and thats about it.

1 - Focusrite 2i2 - $125

3 - GMS ES-57 - $120

1 - Cad kick drum mic - $40

1 - Stereo Pair Monoprice condensers - $100

6 - Xlr microphone cables - $60

4 - 1/4 Cables - $30


Grand total $475.


With this, whatever comes into the mixer is what you're gonna get, so you'll need to make sure you have all your panning, eq, and levels set the way you want them, because aside from some post production eqing, that's pretty much what you're going to get. If you're looking for individual tracks for individual instruments, thats going to take an audio interface with at least 8 inputs, and probably set you back 400-500 on the low end.

u/sittingbox · 3 pointsr/tifu

Look you may need a small amp between your guitar and the interface but I doubt it.

Focusrite Scarlett Solo (2nd Gen) USB Audio Interface with Pro Tools | First https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E6T56CM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_g3qXKNij2Nsgu

Currently my interface for simply recording voice, no instruments. Cheap and really reliable. Let me know if I can be more help.

u/SirSparrow · 3 pointsr/Songwriting

Buy a Scarlett 2i2 USB interface

Download Reaper (a free Digital Audio Workstation)


Buy an Audiotechnica AT2020, a great all-purpose mic


Take songwriting classes and production classes, or try and find lessons on Youtube or something. Learn music theory and how chord progressions and good melodies are written. It doesn't matter how good your hardware/software is if you don't first spend a lot of time learning how to create a well-structured song.

If you don't understand how chords and melodies fit together, and how to make a well-structured lyric (at least subconsciously) at a music theory level, it will be very difficult for you to progress if you are trying to make catchy music - Find a professional and invest in classes!

u/lightrefracted · 3 pointsr/ZReviews

If you want to play several audio sources at once then you need a mixer to combine the inputs. A simple Y-splitter cable won't work for this and most DAC/Amps only play from one source at a time. There are affordable USB mixers that act as USB audio interfaces (both playback and recording in PC), like this one BEHRINGER XENYX 302USB. It combines analog audio inputs and you can listen to the output via the headphone out on the mixer itself, the line out from the mixer to a separate headphone amp, or using the PC's audio playback if you treat the interface as a recording device and enable listening on it.

As for the optical, as long as it's just a PCM signal and not DTS or Dolby Digital (those require decoding), then you can convert that to analog using a simple digital to analog converter ($5-10) and run that analog output (RCA, 3.5mm, 6.5mm, etc) as another input on the mixer.

u/karnac · 3 pointsr/ableton

http://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-2i2-USB-Recording-Interface/dp/B005OZE9SA
I have one of these and it is awesome. great sound and great build quality. it looks great on my desk as well.

u/wolfcry0 · 3 pointsr/audio

The UCA202 is pretty well recommended, it's a good DAC and has RCA and Optical outputs

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KW2YEI

u/sjv7883 · 3 pointsr/audiophile

Those JBLs are meant to have a balanced input (commonly used in the pro-audio scene). Your Sonar DGX puts out an unbalanced signal (commonly used in the consumer and home theater/hifi scene). A DAC that outputs a balanced signal would take care of your interference issues. Take a look at the Focusrite Scarlett 2i2.

u/MrSparkle666 · 3 pointsr/guitarpedals

You'll want to get some kind of USB audio recording interface such as this:

Focusrite Scarlett 2i2

Most of these types of audio interfaces have high impedance instrument inputs built into them, so you can plug a guitar or synth directly into it.

A DI box isn't really necessary unless you are doing long cable runs, plugging into a mic input on a mixer, or have ground loop hum issues.

u/Condawg · 3 pointsr/Harmontown

I prefer Reaper to Audacity, but that's just personal preference. I find it waaaay easier to edit. It's not free, but it has a pretty much unlimited trial with no restrictions other than a box telling you to buy it when you open the program. Should you get use out of it though, you totally should buy it. It's cheap as hell for a DAW and worth every goddamned penny.

I use an Audio Technica AT2020, which should be a decent step up from your ATR2100. If you want a leap up, the Shure SM7B is one of the best mics you can get, but it requires a shitload of gain so you have to make sure you get a mixer or audio interface that can support it. Since I can't afford to get both a new mixer and a new mic, my next mic will likely be an Electro Voice RE320 dynamic microphone, which seems like a great mic for the price.

Making your audio sound better is not a cheap venture. Once you start your way down this rabbit hole, be prepared to spend a lot of money over the years on it. I'm a voice-over artist, and most of the money I make doing that goes right back into my setup. This room needs audio treatment, I need a better mic, I need better isolation, maybe a full recording booth, but god damn I could build that myself for a fraction of the cost, but will my mediocre craftsmanship be worth the savings? etc etc etc.

If you're just looking for a good setup for a podcast, an XLR AT2020 and a Focusrite Scartlett 2i2 should keep you satisfied for a while. Make sure you also get a pop filter, and good XLR cables.

u/Fu-Schnickens · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

I have the same setup and use a Scarlett solo. Never had a problem, very easy to use and good looking too.
Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 (1st GENERATION) USB Recording Audio Interface https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005OZE9SA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hAyUzbGRGF014

u/LooneyNoons · 3 pointsr/hometheater

Sure, I am also doing this. What you need is an Audio Mixer. I use this for my system:
http://www.amazon.com/Rolls-MX42-Stereo-Mini-Mixer/dp/B00102ZN40?tag=viglink20850-20

You can hook up to 4 audio sources (I have my TV, my PC and an AUX cable for my smartphone hooked up as sources) and 1 set of speakers (Output). I don't know if you are using chinch or normal 3.5mm AUX cables, so you probably have to buy some 3.5mm to chinch adapters, but they cost only 2 bucks ore so.

Greetings from Germany

u/picmandan · 3 pointsr/audiorepair

You need a mixer, like this, or maybe this would do.

u/FG730 · 3 pointsr/singing

I recommend a Focusrite Scarlett as the audio interface based on my own experience. I am not a pro or anything.. I just record guitar/singing for my own amusement. I personally use a Scarlett 6i6, Sony MDR7510 studio headphones, and a Shure SM57 mic (which admittedly, is not ideal for recording vocals), though I ordered a Rode NT1 condenser mic just yesterday and am excited, since it should be great.
Foscusrite has a starter bundle that you could get (http://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-2i2-USB-Recording-Interface/dp/B005OZE9SA/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1452070488&amp;amp;sr=1-1&amp;amp;keywords=focusrite), though I personally would not get the bundle since the mic and headphones are not the greatest.

The Scarlet 2i2 interface, some good "budget" studio monitor headphones (sony makes several for around $100), and a good "budget" condenser mic (Rode NT1 or NT1A... ~$225-$275) is what I would buy. You're looking at $400 at least. I know that sounds like a lot of cash, but if she is even remotely serious, go ahead and do it and don't buy the cheap shit, cause you'll just end up buying better stuff later anyway. After you have all that you may want to look at Reaper as the DAW instead of Audacity. It's only $60 and does a LOT... VST plugins, etc... a 60 day trial is free.

u/achillesLS · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

I did a lot of research on this a while back for my desk setup. Ended up passing, but I found both of these came pretty highly reviewed:

u/greenie2600 · 3 pointsr/synthesizers

Well, you don't have to multitrack – there are plenty of devices which record a single mono or stereo signal. You just won't be able to modify the mix after recording – i.e., whatever you hear while you're playing will be what the recorded track sounds like.

One drawback of this single-track approach: since you only have two hands, it would be difficult to perform and mix at the same time. So you would either need to sequence (at least some of) your instruments (to free up your hands for mixing duties), or you would have to forgo complex mixing (i.e., you would need to set the levels and EQ on the mixer before recording, and leave them more-or-less alone for the duration of the track).

There are many portable, non-multitrack digital recorders such as the Zoom H1 or the Tascam DR-05. Many of them have built-in microphones (meant for field recording), so you'd be getting two pieces of gear in one.

If you're really trying to keep costs down, you could buy an old cassette deck at a secondhand shop, and use that. The Behringer 1202 has RCA inputs and outputs, so that would be pretty simple to set up. Cassette is noisy, but some people embrace its retro / lo-fi sound. (But you would still need some kind of audio interface to get the finished recordings into your computer.)

But: full-fledged multitrack recorders don't have to be expensive. This looks like a decent option – and it doesn't cost much more than the single-track recorders linked above.

Also, if you don't mind older and somewhat clunkier tech, secondhand multitrackers can be quite cheap. Here's a Roland VS-880 for US$80 (plus shipping). (Just don't expect it to play well with modern computers, at least not without a fight.)

Really, though – since you already have a computer, I would start by using that for recording. At least until you've gotten comfortable with your mixer.

ETA: you have not asked any stupid questions :)

u/importflip · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

ATH M50x: Nice starter headphones.

Beyerdynamic DT770: These are closed so they are good at bass. I linked the PRO-32s because I doubt you have a soundcard, or want to get one that can push the ohms.

Beyerdynamic DT 990: These are like the 770s, but they are open, so less bass, and better positioning (sound staging).

All three should be good for music and gaming, with the first 2 being better for bassy music and the last being better for more instrumental music.

Later on you should look at getting a DAC.

You can get good stuff at the price point you are looking for, but if you end up loving the sound quality, 150+ should be your starting point. Also check out head-fi forums for other suggestions.

Edit: Changed link for the 32 Ohm version of the DT990s

u/Catman_6 · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

This is the one I have

It lowers the volume some but it's awesome when I want to watch TV and catch a youtube clip. There are more expensive active mixers that probably keep the volume up or amplify it, but they're much more expensive

u/josh6499 · 3 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

Guys, get some powered monitors like these instead, you'll be a lot better off.

https://www.amazon.ca/JBL-LSR305-Studio-Monitor/dp/B00DUKP37C $219 each (80 watts)

or these

https://www.amazon.ca/Micca-PB42x-Powered-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B00NXAEPDC $179 (pair) (75 watts)


/r/audiophile

u/NamaztakTheUndying · 3 pointsr/headphones

It's way too damn heavy to the point where some products go out of their way to mention that you shouldn't even attempt to use them with it.

Has its own very specific shock mount, which is absolute shit, and will fall apart before you can tighten it to where it will actually stay where you want it for any real amount of time.

You can get a better, more complicated, but at the same time easier to swap things out, setup for cheaper.

Basically, to me, the Blue Yeti is the gaming headset of microphones.

u/heatseekah · 3 pointsr/audiophile

not sure how much you thinking of spending, but a USB audio interface would be nice for those studio monitors. Presonus Audiobox is a popular choice

u/CricketPinata · 3 pointsr/podcasts

If it's just you and your buddy and you aren't doing any Skype call-ins, and you guys can both be in the same room all you'll need is...

Two mics:
ENTRY/BASIC: https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATR2100-USB-Cardioid-Dynamic-Microphone/dp/B004QJOZS4/ - $64.00 American - $128 total.

Intermediate: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/356521-REG/Audio_Technica_AT2020_AT2020_Condenser_Microphone.html - $99.00 American - $200 total.

Two XLR cables: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JNLTTKS/ - $5.99 American - $12.00 total.

One XLR-to-USB setup: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CTKI45M/ - $99.00 American

Two Scissor Arms: https://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-Microphone-Suspension-Broadcasting-Voice-Over/dp/B00DY1F2CS/ - $12.99 American - $26.00 total

Two Pop Filters: https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Studio-Microphone-Filter-Shield/dp/B00ACFAULC/ - $6.95 American each - $14.00 total.

A DAW: Audacity - Free - https://www.audacityteam.org/download/

TOTAL BASIC COST: $280-355 American

If you need to do a Skype call Mix-Minus it will cost an extra $20-50 depending on how you would like to do it.

u/cinepro · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Does he have a phono preamp that he's happy with? If so, you just need a "USB Recording Interface". There are tons to choose from, and since you're just doing stereo, almost any will do.

24bit - 48kHz resolution should be good unless he wants to go nuts (maybe do an AB comparison of higher bitrates or frequencies to make sure it's worth it).

Something like this:

Presonus Audiobox 2x2

If it's just this one recording project, then you can buy used and then sell it after you're done. I don't know what the market is like there in Germany (I tend to have a good selection for that kind of stuff here in Los Angeles.)

If you need a good phono preamp too, that gets a little more expensive and complicated.

u/Mert7 · 3 pointsr/oculus

I'm good on connectors, my main 3 screens are taking up all my display ports, I gotta move my t.v. off the HDMI and use a DVI adapter for that to make room for my Rift.

As far as the stand goes, I'm kind of hoping that bezel and gap between center and side monitor will be enough, other wise I'll get scissor stand, I can wait for prime shipping and just lay camera down when not in use in the mean time.

By keeping face plates clean I think you mean the face gasket?
Some people have been using face masks, especially people prone to sweating like my self. A face mask looks easier to clean than a face gasket, though I may get one too for comfort reasons.

The hard part of prep for me is finding a way to mount my hotas either to my chair or desk properly so they don't move when I'm in the Rift. Aside from that I think I'll just need some double sided foam tape for my Leap Motion and a usb extension cord, then I'm set.

u/GothamCountySheriff · 3 pointsr/vinyl

You can get a USB audio interface. The better the turntable and interface the better the end product. But for a turntable the level of your LP60, this Behringer unit should do the job fine:

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA222-BEHRINGER-U-CONTROL/dp/B0023BYDHK

u/Flag5ive · 3 pointsr/Twitch

I think it all depends on your current setup concerning desk real estate and how you use your mic. I picked up a very cheap boom arm (~$20 CAD on amazon) just to clear up some space for my mouse/keyboard. That being said, it did help filter out some vibration sounds and the convenience of being able to easily move my mic to and from is really nice.

I'd happily recommend a boom. If not for the removal of vibration sound, than definitely for the convenience of mobility and added desk space. Note: I also use a Blue Yeti.

u/dloburns · 3 pointsr/vinyl

It'd be better to get a USB audio adapter* and just a normal dj turntable like a Technics SL-1200 (assuming you want to queue up certain parts).

Some things to know:

  • Direct drive vs. belt drive
  • Using Audacity to record
  • You might need a preamp (you could stack them to distort the sound too)
  • An adjustable counter-weight and replicable needle are probably the two most important parts that separate a cheap TT from a Quality TT

    *rca jacks would be the best, and if you have a desktop you could get a sound card installed that has them too. Other wise you could use the line-in plug which might require and adaptor.
u/zachsilvey · 3 pointsr/audiophile
u/ATM223 · 3 pointsr/LivestreamFail

Shockmount helps a lot but also the suspension boom.

u/neuromonkey · 3 pointsr/raspberry_pi

I've used a Behringer UCA222 with a Pi 1 and a Pi 3. It isn't audiophile quality, but it does sound pretty good. (I think I paid $22.)

http://wiki.linuxaudio.org/wiki/raspberrypi#supported_usb_devices

u/Miotch92 · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

NEEWER Microphone Suspension Boom Scissor Arm Stand https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DY1F2CS/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_MEcuybDNT6ET5

My boom is... cheaper than his. Mine clamps to the desk, so depending on your situation it might or might not work.

u/ELite_Predator28 · 3 pointsr/letsplay

OP PLEASE disregard all these comments and buy this mic arm for $13: LINK

This mic stand isn't supposed to fit a Blue Yeti but it can; there's a bit of a trick to it. Basically you have to unscrew the male part of the fitted bolt on the stand and put the male end into the bottom the the Blue Yeti, then screw it onto the stand. Here's a video encase I wasn't clear:

VIDEO

Here's what my setup looks like: http://imgur.com/a/ZF9z2
I pinned it to the back of my desk and have the stand and mic hanging over my monitor. I've haven't had any issues with this thing at all since I bought it a year ago.

u/Anberlin_ · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

If you're in need of a mic stand to go with it, this seems to be a popular one

Edit: So I've set it up and tested it and the mic sounds great. It doesn't pick up any of my key presses or mouse clicks although you just have to mess with the thresholds and gain a little to suit your room and whatnot. The Neewer stand is nice also; easy mount and easy to move around

u/VaughnWhiskey · 3 pointsr/Twitch

The stand given with the AT2020 is complete shit. Maybe look for a desk one and mount it on a wall or something.

like this http://amzn.com/B00DY1F2CS
My current one - http://i.imgur.com/QVPq8Ch.jpg

That's what I do with a old flat panel mount. I have tried different locations and it seems that it sounds better rather away then up close with the right settings.

bLeaguer said they have noise but I have never had any with it for recording or streaming but I do use a noisegate for the fact is i make stupid noises and type hard.

Also make sure it is plugged in to the back of your PC in a USB and not a front USB port. This might be what cause the noise bLeaguer has mentioned.

Shock mount is nice to have but I find it isn't really needed, same as a "POP" filter.

u/ramses0 · 3 pointsr/Guitar

Lost my comment somehow ... anyway: Zoom H1 might fit your bill:

http://www.amazon.com/Zoom-H1-Portable-Digital-Recorder/dp/B003QKBVYK

$100 and pretty low-tech, but high audio quality.

u/Kerb3r0s · 3 pointsr/pocketoperators

$30 and it works with phone, tablet, and PC. Just need a cable or adapter to convert stereo 3.5mm to RCA.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0023BYDHK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kUrTCbYY19BCS

u/proxpi · 3 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

Your mic is a good one, your mixer is probably fine... it probably is the sound input on the laptop. Laptop integrated audio is usually pretty shitty to begin with, as it is crammed in close with a bunch of EM-producing circuits, not to mention general cost cutting and the fact that most inputs on laptops aren't meant for anything but a crappy headset-type mic in the first place.

What you need is an external sound card, or, more accurately when talking about music production, an audio interface.

The simplest route to go would be to get something like a Behringer UCA222. It's cheap, but pretty bare-bones. You would simply plug in the RCA output of the mixer into the RCA input, and you should be able to record via that.

For the next level up, there's some better options. One would be the ART USB Dual Pre, which would let you use TWO microphones. Seeing as you don't have two, and it's fairly limited otherwise (it would ignore your mixer completely), I would rather recommend something else...

..such as the Tascan US-100. This is a more complete audio interface, with mic/instrument and stereo in. You could run your SM57 directly into it, to the computer and have the lowest noise possible (any analog connections introduce some level of noise into the signal). You could also connect the RCA output of your mixer to it. The only drawback is that it does not have phantom power, but your mixer can supply that if you ever end up getting a condenser microphone.

All of these options should sound QUITE a bit better than running your mixer directly into your computer.

You didn't mention what software you use, but almost anything should work with any of these.

Hope that helped a bit!

u/graffitiofthenorth · 3 pointsr/IWantToLearn

I'm a semi-professional voice actor - lot of low level experience in a bunch of different projects, and some paid projects for youtube videos or video games. Here's what I can say that can get you started rather than stumbling your way around:

Get a mic geared more towards voice recording (such as the H1 Zoom) - having your own equipment is a much more accessible way to get started.

Sound editing/engineering skills - can't hurt to be fluent in, or at least familiar with programs like Audacity, which will give you a better handle on the output of your work.

Personal projects - find something to practice doing a narration of. Do an audiobook, write something and narrate it, or do a chapter of a classic. Compare your copy to a professional one, show it to audio producers, redo and edit your own audio until you can emulate or develop a style of narration.

Community projects - I got into doing voice over stuff through mod projects; The Freespace Open project has a forum for their voice acting projects. Whilst it's not that active anymore, you can look around if there are any certain games you're interested in.

Learn from the pro's - This documentary is a great place to start; professionals like John DiMaggio and Tommy Kenny give a good insight into the difficulties of building up a career and skills for voice acting.

u/trehug · 3 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

zoom h1 amazon

$98

and don't be fooled - these are quality recorders, stereo spread, balanced and unbalanced...etc.

if you really wanna splurge - go for the zoom h4n, which can take xlr inputs and more - but in your price range - get the h1 you won't be dissapoint

*edit - come to think of it if you are doing highly dynamic concert band type of recordings - save up an extra hundo and get the h4n.

u/jsnef6171985 · 3 pointsr/Filmmakers

If you want the audio all on one track as you record, you're going to need a mixer of some kind (a device that takes several inputs and feeds it into a single output). This might get expensive, clunky, and difficult to set up.

My suggestion is that you buy stand-alone audio recorders for as many people as you want to have miced, with lav attachments. I have a Zoom H1 with a cheap lav attachment from RadioShack, and it works great for what I do.

In order to make it work, you'll have to start recording on each recorder manually, and hide it in the subjects pocket or something (you can test if the lav is working using headphones). It would be smart, once the camera is rolling, to get one of your subjects to clap loudly on screen (like they do with a slate on movie shoots), because you'll need to sync the different audio tracks in post-production. You'll have to remember when shooting that every time you stop and re-start recording, you'll need to re-sync in post, which can get extremely tedious, especially with multiple different tracks.

Now, the benefits to doing it this way are: it's less bulky than using a field mixer for multiple inputs, and your camera will not be tied down to the input; it frees up your subjects to move around; it's much cheaper than what you'd need to buy for wired and/or wireless mic/mixer setup; and reduced chance of wireless interference, without wired loss of freedom.

Downsides: having to sync in post can be a bitch; less freedom to stop/start recording whenever you want if you don't want to have to re-sync 50 times; no way to tell if it sounds good until you're done shooting (but checking with headphones before a take, and making sure batteries are full will solve 90% of this problem)...

Anyway I hope that helps.

u/episgscustom · 3 pointsr/poppunkers

You said that you were using Line In to your computer, right? If so, that's what is causing the latency. Unfortunately, your best solution is getting a USB audio interface like the $30 Behringer UM2.

u/SpicyThunder335 · 3 pointsr/Twitch
u/5oss8oss · 3 pointsr/Filmmakers

The other replies here are good suggestions, but everyone is suggesting new lenses. Personally for someone starting out I would suggest crawling craigslist or KEH for some used nikon or super-takumar lenses. You'd have to buy an adaptor ring but even with this you can get two or three solid lenses for the cost of one new one.

There would be no automatic/electronic components meaning you would have to do everything manually, but if you are interested in getting into cinematography this is good as it forces you to learn how lenses work and what looks best.

Audio is best recorded separately, but in a pinch having a mic that attaches to your camera is better than nothing. I would suggest a Rode Videomic as they can be used with a small external recorder or your new camera.

Lighting equipment is expensive, but a DIY set can provide great results on a budget. Some wax paper, PVC, and work lights from Home Depot can look good if used correctly.

u/peopledontlikemypost · 3 pointsr/india
u/kevlarorc · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

Audio is recorded separately.
For voice recording probably the easiest would be to have one of those Sena headsets in your helmet.
When I did motovlogging I had a cheap lecture recorder and taped a lapel mic in to my helmet.
For just exhaust notes you would want something like the Zoom H1 wrapped up in foam and shoved under the seat. Sync audio with your horn or a hand clap.

u/desdelgadillo · 2 pointsr/podcasts

Everyone here hit the nail on the head. Condenser mics like the one you have are death in these situations. I've been using the Behringer XM8500. Great mic, always getting compared to the Shure SM85, and only $20.

u/-Argih · 2 pointsr/mexico

Sacado del faq del server de discord de /r/microphones

---------------------
How much money should I spend on a microphone

  • Under $100. $50-100 offers a lot of great options. Then, spend the rest on acoustic treatment.

  • $200-1000 mics may offer more options for your taste but aren't necessarily meaningfully better

  • Expensive microphone will still result in bad recordings if money isn't spent on improving the recording environment

    ------------------------

    Usualmente recomiendan el Behringer c-1

    Y necesitarías una interfaz con phantom power, la más económica que no es una basura es la Behringer u-phoria um2

    Te recomiendo si sabes inglés le des una vuelta a su server de discord, sí ayudan y tienen un canal de "preguntas noob"

    https://discord.gg/0q6sMljeIfbmYL6T
u/kadavy · 2 pointsr/podcasts

For the love of god, do not buy a Blue mic. I don't know how they got a reputation for making good mics. I think they are terrible.

The best cheap mic I've heard is the BEHRINGER ULTRAVOICE XM1800S (affiliate link). But, it comes in a pack of three for $40. Could work if you can find friends to split with. Still all three are cheaper than the ATR2100 (which is in fact an amazing mic).

There was a booth at Podcast Movement in which I was able to test about a dozen different mics. If you want to listen, it's up on my Dropbox here. The Behringer is the first mic on this test. You can even listen to how much background noise the Blue Yeti picks up. Awful, awful mic in my opinion.

EDIT: Just noticed there's also a Behringer Ultravoice Xm8500 (affiliate link), that goes for $20 for one. I would suspect (and the Amazon ratings suggest) it's as good as the three-for-$40 model.

EDIT EDIT: Also just realized the ones I listed above are XLR. You'd need an XLR to USB cable, about $10.

u/badoomtch · 2 pointsr/microphones

Here is the Rode stand. It's quite pricey, but it's high quality.
Here is a cheaper version.

u/ChelatedMonoxide · 2 pointsr/recording

Yes, there are recorders that can record multiple tracks. Like the Tascam DR-40 has XLR inputs. I'm not necessarily endorsing the Tascam. I have the DR-05 and find it acceptable quality. Something like the Zoom H4N has XLR connectors built in, so you could record a mic into those and use the built in condenser mics to record your guitar.

You left out some relevant information: Budget, can your guitar be plugged in or will you mic it? Do you have a pretty sound free workspace?

I think budget is the most important part here. I interpret 'nothing flashy' as being a cheap as it can get without being poor quality.

I'm gonna link to listings on Amazon because it's easiest, but B&amp;H or if you live near a Guitar Center might be a better place to buy.

A possible setup:

  • ART Dual USB Preamp - $80 - This will allow you to plug in one mic and your guitar and output the track to your computer via USB. Depending on the software, I believe you can have the tracks separate for editing, but they would separate into left and right channels that you'd then combine into a stereo track after editing.


  • Shure SM58 - $100 - A dynamic vocal mic that will play well in a not so perfect recording space. Check out Regina Spektor using one during a concert. This mic is so popular I would make sure to only get it from a reputable dealer i.e. not used on ebay, because there are fakes floating around.

    If you need/want to mic your guitar then consider the SM-57. It is nearly identical to the SM58. Here is a guy demonstrating using one to record his guitar.

  • If $100 is insanely out of your budget, then consider the Behringer XM8500 - $20 - Not as high quality as the SM58, but still a decent sound. Here is a guy comparing the SM57 to the XM8500 and is using just one mic for voice and guitar, without using a preamp, so keep that in mind when comparing the audio (I hear some noise in the audio, probably noise from the line to the camera, which I presume has some sort of automatic gain happening).

    This guy's video makes me wonder if just an SM57 with a decent preamp (i.e. one with clean gain) might be all you'd need... but that isn't ideal. You could go with two XM8500s, one for guitar and one for vocals ($40). Or one SM58 for vocals and one XM8500 for guitar($120). That all comes down to budget and preferences.

  • You'll need a mic stand, or two. The On-Stage MS7701B is a best seller on Amazon. I own one of these and it isn't going to impress anyone. I've never had it tip over or seem unsteady. If you extend the boom arm too far it can sometimes slowly droop over time (I may be guilty of not tightening it enough due to not wanting to strip the threads) It does the job of holding a mic in place. If you go with two mics, you could get two of them. You could also get a desk stand for the mic that is recording your guitar and find a suitable place to set it, but I think the boom arm of the MS7701B will be useful for keeping the stand out of your way.

  • And you will need cables. I recommend the cables from Monoprice, their Pro Audio series. It is not as user friendly to find the exact cables you'll need as a site like B&amp;H, but I have had several of their cables and only had one die on me. All their cables have a lifetime warranty and the prices are shockingly low.

  • And a windscreen or pop filter for the mics is nice. There is a decent windscreen on Amazon for 3 bucks, sometimes 2 bucks.

    Potential Changes &amp; other thoughts -

    A more expensive preamp - ART Tube Dual Mic Preamp With USB - $190- this has some compression and a limiter. It's debatable whether in this range it would be better to get a decent mixer, a preamp for your vocals, and let the preamp on the mixer handle the guitar, or if something like this would be better. Like a Behringer mixer - Q802USB ($80) + ART single channel Preamp for vocals ($40/$50) would be less money than the Dual USB preamp.

    Or maybe just the Q802USB would suffice for your needs. It has preamps already built in. They are not the best preamps in the world. I mean... after all I wrote above, the more I think about it the more I think you should try a Q802USB and see if the sound is what you're wanting.

    Headphones - Add in some headphones to monitor your audio. ATH-M40x ($100) would be my recommendation, but this is where a lot of personal preference comes into the mix, no pun intended.

    Different mics - Rode has some mics that compare the the Shure SM57/58 that might be better. And the options for mic are virtually limitless, when you consider not just the mics can vary, but the audio interfaces and processing options. I really think a dynamic mic will be most user friendly for a one off home recording.

    I hope I haven't confused more than I helped. I think the essentials are this: good mics, clean gain, easy to use. Whether you get the dual channel ART preamp or the Q802USB, either will be easy to use. I would bet the gain on the ART preamp is cleaner, meaning less background hiss at higher levels, than the Q802USB, but perhaps that is just an unreasonable bias. In either case, the mic is going to be important and where your budget plays a big role. The SM58 and SM57 are superb for vocals and recording guitar. A condenser might be better if the acoustics of your recording space allow for it, but I hope you saw from the video I linked of the guy recording his guitar with the SM57 that a great sound can be achieved with a $100 mic. If that is out of your budget, keep in mind the XM8500, but the sound is not as clear as the Shure mics it tries to emulate.
u/brianf408 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Currently using this Neewer stand with my Samson Q2U microphone. I run mine through a mixing board and the quality is really good for the money.

u/dovakeening · 2 pointsr/podcasting

Sure thing!

It's this one.

u/shadowrabbit · 2 pointsr/podcasts

Your budget was right around what we spent, although we didn't use a mixer cause we do everything through skype and record locally. So that said all the stuff below if for a non-mixer set-up, maybe it works with a mixer, idk.

The Blue Yeti is a good mic for the price. It is not a professional mic by any stretch, but for $100 it's about as good as you are going to get, imo. Blue also has a snowball, for $50 which I actual have one of but have not yet tested in terms of recording quality.

The stand you can get for cheap. This one is the one I use, it screws right into the bottom of the Yeti.

Headphones I would actually recommend not going cheap on. We had this issue in one of our early podcasts where I broke out a $15 pair of cheap sony headphones and you could hear the audio I heard through the mic. I use these now, they're amazing, very comfortable.

u/Mr_Stonebender · 2 pointsr/podcasting

That X/Y mic is great for recording in stereo, but that would make for a weird listening experience I think. If it was all you had, then you'd make it work, maybe combine the L/R tracks into one Mono track so as to avoid being distracting, but since you're not intending to try that, I'll shut up about it.

You've got the right idea wanting ISO tracks of each speaker. Makes editing MUCH more effective. It's also SOP these days for stuff like this. (In the old days of analog recording up through even a few years ago, you wouldn't have the data-writing speeds or bandwidth to record 5 high-quality digital audio tracks to the same hard disk at the same time, so you'd have a dedicated mix engineer whose main job would be to constantly 'ride the faders' on the five people speaking so that the output was clean, clear, and easy to listen to. MAYBE you'd edit, but if you did, you did it with a razorblade and scotch tape. Post-processing was minimal compared to what a lot of folks do today as well. Especially for radio.)

ANYWAY. Forgive the wordsalad.

WAIT! More wordsalad: I should offer up a bit of a correction to my last message, too, because I was using cardioid/omni reasoning that would apply more to standard mics, not lavs. So I changed my mind. Go with omni :-). Reason: Because of how microphones get built, and how lavs are used, the 'dead zone' on the cardioid version would just...point at the floor. So. Not much in the way of rejection in any case. Plus, the more directional the mic, the more careful the speaker has to be not to move their head while they're talking, which is harder to remember than it sounds. With that in mind...

Movo LV4-C: Get these, I think. Maybe just buy one, test it to make sure it's not utter crap, and then buy the rest. There's a favorable comparison to MXL in the comments, and they have some of the best budget-mics I've used. They're never going to replace a lectrosonic or sennheiser or electrovoice or shure or or or...but they'll get you there if you don't have $2000 to spend on mics alone. And by the looks of it, the LV4-C mic may well be a copy of the MXL mic referenced, if not the exact same hardware with different branding. So, even better. Not a pro mic by many measures, but it'll do the job and be an improvement over nothing.

As for the rest:

Shure CVL: The adapter you'd need to run these costs a minimum of 20 bucks apiece. Doesn't justify the cost, plus: adapter. More stuff to forget, more stuff to break.

Behringer XM1800: These are probably ::choke:: fine? But You'd need stands and cables and also they probably don't sound any better than your laptop mic. So...they could work, and 80 bucks for six mics is just a ridiculous price. Couldn't hurt to try, I suppose. Still, with the lavs, as long as you affix them correctly, you'll have the least amount of stuff to worry about while you're recording.

Goliton Cardioid Lav: NO. No. Please just...not these ::Cries::. These would be WORSE than just screaming really loud and hoping your neighbors can hear and enjoy your show.

-----

If you do get the lavs, check out this pic of a 'Broadcast Loop' for an example of a good way to minimize cable noise and strain on the cable. (Although with a cheaper mic, I'd use a bigger loop than you see in the pic to avoid breaking the cable. You're not doing this on video are you?)

And for that 5th mic, the inline preamp /u/matgoebel doesn't actually supply phantom power, so it wouldn't work for your setup. Keeping it cheap, something like this might do the trick, but it's one more piece of kit.

So here's a question(s) to consider, in no particular order of importance:

  • Will all five of you be recording all the time, every single session?

  • Why did you decide on lavalier mics to begin with?

  • Is finding a phantom power workaround really worth your time?

    If it is, then it is. But if it's not, you could always go the dynamic mic route, which means you wouldn't need phantom power on ANY channel, hell—even handheld would be fine if you don't want to mess with stands, just be careful to have some slack in the cable coming off the mic—don't let the mic support the weight of the cable. Those Behringer mics are worth a shot, although after listening around I think if you go that route you might want to check out these Behringer 8500s instead. They're a little meatier sounding, not quite as harsh, which I think you'd end up preferring in the long run. (Until you can afford THE VOICE OF GOD)

    EDIT: fixed my own stupid markup mistake.
u/TranscodedMusic · 2 pointsr/edmproduction

I was set on the Equator D5s, but for as good as they are my understanding is that a lot of people are disappointed in the sub bass.

I ended up being swayed toward the JBL LSR305. They appear to be one of the bargains of the moment and from everything I've heard people have been very pleasantly surprised by the accuracy and bass response.

u/posidonking · 2 pointsr/audiodrama

Hi, I'm the co-editor for podcast production and I think I may be able to help with your questions.

Mics: Depending on your current recording space you have 2 options, Condenser or Dynamic Microphones. Condenser mics are very good at picking up detailed sound but they are most of the time to sensitive to be used without some sort of sound proofing or acoustic treatment to the room as they are really good at picking up even the quietest of sounds. but if you have a treated room or a acoustic shield then that might be an option to look into. Dynamic mics however are really good at capturing loud sounds and because of that, they are mostly used for singing and instruments. however they are also often used for narration because you don't have to go all out with the sound proofing as they are less sensitive. now since my talents are in post production, I don't need an expensive microphone to get a good sounding recording, so I just use a $20 Dynamic microphone from amazon, they're great in fact I bought 4 of them for a podcast I was doing, I can give samples if you would like. As for price, Condenser are on average going to cost more because of everything that goes into it. Dynamic mics are older tech, so they aren't as expensive. my friend who does the vocal recordings has the Rode NT1a, a rather expensive condenser microphone $229, and I record using the Behringer Xm8500 Dynamic mic $20 on amazon. so it's really up to your budget and editing know how.

Rode NT1a

Xm8500

You will also need a audio interface if you're going to be using XLR mics, which I highly recommend you do. Here's the one I use, although you may not need that many channels

&amp;#x200B;

Software: I use Adobe Audition around $20 a month subscription. However I have in the past used Audacity and if you know how to use it, you can get some really good results. If you are looking to get into industry standard software I would recommend Pro Tools also I think $20 a month.

&amp;#x200B;

Yes, people who don't use a studio generally record to their preferred Audio editor and mix/edit then upload to a hosting website for their podcast, the production I work for uses Blogtalk which I think has a free option. However there are many options for hosting websites (E.g. Acast, Podbean, Libsyn, Ect.) I recommend reading this website for hosting options.

&amp;#x200B;

People typically find voice actors through Casting Calls which they themselves set up or by going through a casting call website, and yes voice actors are typically paid although some may offer volunteer if they're just getting out there or for charity. For the sake of professionalism always assume you are paying for their services, that way if they decline payment then that's their choice as an actor.

&amp;#x200B;

If your podcast gains enough listeners then yes, you can definaty make money through podcasting, but you should never go only for making money. because one, it takes a while ti gain listeners and two it's just no fun if your only in it for the money.

&amp;#x200B;

I remember being exactly where you are now asking these questions, so If you need any help don't hesitate to ask. I hope this helps :)

&amp;#x200B;

&amp;#x200B;

TL,DR

Mics: I use a $20 Dynamic mic which gives me great recordings, although there are more expensive and higher quality options out there.

Software: I use Adobe Audition to edit everything but there are a myriad of other audio editing options out there including the free software Audacity.

Yes it can be as simple as Record/Edit/Post depending on what your doing and the type of podcast your going for.

You find actors through casting calls, and typically you always pay actors for their services. Always expect to pay.

Yes you can make money through podcasting depending on your listenership and Ads and things like that.

u/TheReveller · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Hey, I'm kinda in the same boat, I'm going to buy some Monitors, and I need something for the PC to make it worth it. I'm sure your PC already has some kind of sound card, but I'm guessing it's just got a 3.5 mm stereo jack.

You could get a splitter e.g.:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA8N23HS1217&amp;amp;cm_re=3.5mm_rca-_-9SIA8N23HS1217-_-Product

Then you need to convert the RCA to TRS (that's the only input, right?), you could use something like this:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2E11AU1608&amp;amp;cm_re=RCA_TS-_-9SIA2E11AU1608-_-Product

  • Or you could use some other combination of cabling to get your sound into the right jack format.

    So - this MIGHT work ok, but it might not as well. Two reasons:

  1. If you have a basic PC sound card the sound quality is likely to be shit, and you might get white noise coming through the speakers all the time
  2. Using unbalanced connectors in a balanced input might also give noise and won't sound as good.

    So you might find you aren't happy with the setup. The next step is to get some kind of Audio Interface (fancy name for sound card) that's designed for this kind of thing.

    Just getting a dedicated audio interface will improve the sound a lot. You could get one with unbalanced outputs - just RCA out. Since your monitors are so close it probably won't matter.

    Here's the cheapest I could find that does have balanced outs, but there's probably others:

    http://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-2i2-USB-Recording-Interface/dp/B005OZE9SA/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1457608397&amp;amp;sr=1-1&amp;amp;keywords=focusrite+2i2

    The plus side is these things usually have a separate headphone output and volume control, which is super useful if you just want to listen through headphones for a bit and not use the speakers.

    Hope that's useful.







u/YaBoyNazeem · 2 pointsr/podcasting

It depends on your recording environment. If you are just starting out and are recording in a bedroom or office I recommend a cardiod dynamic. Cardiod refers to the pattern around the mic that it picks up. Cardiod mics are most sensitive right in front of them in contrast to omidirectional mics which are sensitive to sound from any direction. A dynamic mic isn't as sensitive as a condensor mic and doesn't pick up a lot of background noise.



If you are just starting out I recommend one of the following:



One Person w/ USB mic:

Audio Technica ATR2100 -- ($69)
https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATR2100-USB-Cardioid-Dynamic-Microphone/dp/B004QJOZS4/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3VSBIQQ3JBF11&amp;amp;keywords=audio+technica+atr2100&amp;amp;qid=1551358784&amp;amp;s=gateway&amp;amp;sprefix=audio+technica+atr2100%2Caps%2C156&amp;amp;sr=8-5



Neewar Boom Arm -- ($14)
https://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-Microphone-Suspension-Broadcasting-Voice-Over/dp/B00DY1F2CS/ref=pd_bxgy_267_3/130-3630075-7767759?_encoding=UTF8&amp;amp;pd_rd_i=B00DY1F2CS&amp;amp;pd_rd_r=bbd378dc-3b58-11e9-bd63-17b75475049f&amp;amp;pd_rd_w=hAX4Y&amp;amp;pd_rd_wg=0cwDw&amp;amp;pf_rd_p=6725dbd6-9917-451d-beba-16af7874e407&amp;amp;pf_rd_r=THVQ9RCXBFP8QTKXH408&amp;amp;psc=1&amp;amp;refRID=THVQ9RCXBFP8QTKXH408



On Stage Foam Wind Screen -- ($3)
https://www.amazon.com/Stage-Foam-Ball-Type-Windscreen-Black/dp/B0002GXF8Q/ref=pd_bxgy_267_2/130-3630075-7767759?_encoding=UTF8&amp;amp;pd_rd_i=B0002GXF8Q&amp;amp;pd_rd_r=bbd378dc-3b58-11e9-bd63-17b75475049f&amp;amp;pd_rd_w=hAX4Y&amp;amp;pd_rd_wg=0cwDw&amp;amp;pf_rd_p=6725dbd6-9917-451d-beba-16af7874e407&amp;amp;pf_rd_r=THVQ9RCXBFP8QTKXH408&amp;amp;psc=1&amp;amp;refRID=THVQ9RCXBFP8QTKXH408


(Total - $86)



_____

One Person - w/ XLR interface:

BEHRINGER UMC22 Interface -- ($60)
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UMC22-BEHRINGER-U-PHORIA/dp/B00FFIGZF6/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=umc22&amp;amp;qid=1551358965&amp;amp;s=musical-instruments&amp;amp;sr=1-1



Behringer Ultravoice Xm8500 -- ($20)
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Ultravoice-Dynamic-Microphone-Cardioid/dp/B0002KZAKS/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2DW4EVX2PF5KX&amp;amp;keywords=xm8500&amp;amp;qid=1551358987&amp;amp;s=musical-instruments&amp;amp;sprefix=xm%2Cmi%2C192&amp;amp;sr=1-1


Audio-Technica ATH-M20, Can use any headphones -- ($50)
https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATH-M20x-Professional-Monitor-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR18/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2B8B1B60ZJQ7U&amp;amp;keywords=ath-20x&amp;amp;qid=1551359014&amp;amp;s=musical-instruments&amp;amp;sprefix=ath-20%2Cmi%2C195&amp;amp;sr=1-1-catcorr


Knox Boom Arm -- ($50)
https://www.amazon.com/Knox-Professional-Microphone-Snowball-Microphones/dp/B07D7JTR5M/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=knox+boom+arm&amp;amp;qid=1551359032&amp;amp;s=musical-instruments&amp;amp;sr=1-1-spons&amp;amp;psc=1


On Stage Foam Wind Screen -- ($3)
https://www.amazon.com/Stage-Foam-Ball-Type-Windscreen-Black/dp/B0002GXF8Q/ref=pd_bxgy_267_2/130-3630075-7767759?_encoding=UTF8&amp;amp;pd_rd_i=B0002GXF8Q&amp;amp;pd_rd_r=bbd378dc-3b58-11e9-bd63-17b75475049f&amp;amp;pd_rd_w=hAX4Y&amp;amp;pd_rd_wg=0cwDw&amp;amp;pf_rd_p=6725dbd6-9917-451d-beba-16af7874e407&amp;amp;pf_rd_r=THVQ9RCXBFP8QTKXH408&amp;amp;psc=1&amp;amp;refRID=THVQ9RCXBFP8QTKXH408


(Total - $189)



The first group is "as cheap as you can get" and still get decent quality. The second group is definitely a better setup.

Ethan cohost of the Shieldwall Podcast https://shieldwallpodcast.podbean.com



EDIT: The second group is definitely a better setup in that it allows you to upgrade down the road with better gear. If you have the money an Audio Technica ATR2100 or AT2005 would sound a good bit better in the second list than the XM8500. But do these sound 4 times better considering them being 3-4x the price? Hard to say.

u/PixelPupz · 2 pointsr/Twitch

Either use

This Rode: Mic Arm Pro: No springs to vibrate Con: Expensive

or

This Neewer: Neewer Arm Pros: Cheaper than Chilis Cons: Springs can vibrate and sound awful when bumped

u/jopasm · 2 pointsr/videography

Handheld may be better. Tripod would be useful too. I don't know, offhand, if there are any decent handheld mics with a 3.5mm cable built in - we already had XLR mics so I went with the adapter cable. You can also get just an adapter that a 3.5mm cable plugs in to, or you can get an adapter cable that 15' or so long. There are pros and cons either way.

Remember to turn off one audio channel (I usually turn off the right channel) when you pull the video in to edit it - you can get weird phasing issues if you don't when you use the adapters.
I've seen good reviews on the Behringer xm8500 if you're on a super limited budget and can't drop another $100 on a mic. It runs for $20-30.

u/cococatlord · 2 pointsr/Twitch

Desk arm mic stands are pretty dope and cheap. I have this one and it has worked well enough for how cheap it is.https://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-Microphone-Suspension-Broadcasting-Voice-Over/dp/B00DY1F2CS/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=desk+mic+arm&amp;qid=1564619752&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-7

Extra xlr cables are always nice to have around. A pop filter is also nice, though you probably need one with that dynamic mic you'll be using. Headphone extension cables can be nice depending on how things are set up on your desk, and how long your headphone cable is. The Focusrite Solo also only has a quarter inch headphone jack, so if you don't have an adapter you could pick up one of those

https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-6-35mm-Female-Stereo-Adapter/dp/B01D82XXGO/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_267_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=SQ828YGS55DGEP084TVVOverall you should be good though!


Edit: Also any kind of adapter to hook up the RCA outputs on the back of the Solo to your pc speakers if you have some too!

u/zndrus · 2 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

Simply put: Amplifiers add amplitude. Mixers/interfaces cut back, if needed, on the amplitude, to preserve/achieve ideal dynamic range. If your signal isn't loud enough when it hits your mixing board/audio interface, you need to amplify it first, that's not the mixers/interfaces job. So Your amplifiers/other equipment should be fine tuned for ideal signal first (as best as can reasonably be done), and THEN mixers second, to achieve this dynamic range. The closer your signal(s) are to ideal before they hit the mixing board, the better when it comes to recording quality. Naturally, this is rarely the case (especially if you're playing with multiple people at the same time/for an audience), and why Mixing/Mastering/Recording is such a complicated field that requires experts, engineers, experience, and talent.

So, if your signal is not loud enough before it hits your mixer/audio interface, then yes, you need an amplifier. Period.

&gt; so if there's a way to just run my guitar into my computer

You need an interface of some sort (this can just be the sound card mic-in input on your pc, but it's far from ideal)

&gt; (using something to boost the signal)

That something would be an amp.

You could always get a small combo practice amp and run the headphone out to your computers mic-in port, and then have your computer "listen" to that mic-in (thus playing what it "hears" through it's speakers). Assuming there isn't appreciable play-back delay this is probably your best bang/buck solution.

I'd try that, and if that fails, get a Behringer U-Phoria UMC22, a Behringer XM8500, an XLR cable of appropriate length, and a mic clip/stand to position the mic in front of your amp speaker. That gets you a practice amp, a decent recording interface, and a very good budget mic for about $120. It'll be far far better quality than what you've got now form the sound of things, not to mention getting you some versatile equipment that you can use in future ventures.

There is other non-behringer alternatives as well of course, but I've got many XM8500's and they frankly are damn near the same quality as the $100 near-infamous Shure XM58's for 1/5 the price, and I've got two of the U-Phoria 400HD's and can't recommend them enough for people looking for quality multi-channel computer audio interfaces on a budget, so having used everything I've mentioned here extensively, I feel comfortable recommending them, as I know they work.




u/TheGrimGayDaddy · 2 pointsr/podcasting

Hummm this is my shopping list for the cheapest usable equipment I could find, the interface is for 8 people so don’t get that lol and the prices are for 4 people but this is about the best I can think of (they’re might be cheaper stands and getting a shorter xlr cable might be a good idea but this is kinda a baseline)

4 Microphones $80https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Ultravoice-Dynamic-Microphone-Cardioid/dp/B0002KZAKS/ref=pd_aw_sim_267_1/134-4918017-9581726?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B0002KZAKS&amp;pd_rd_r=67247d59-873d-11e9-b9fc-e96a8f51671e&amp;pd_rd_w=rl713&amp;pd_rd_wg=YUNRU&amp;pf_rd_p=469620d9-3e90-496d-9dc8-b19f900ba5fe&amp;pf_rd_r=43C56ST8VNKF3SY65G3P&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=43C56ST8VNKF3SY65G3P

4 Pop filters $40https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Microphone-Stabilizing-Recordings-Broadcasting/dp/B01N21H9WY/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=pop%2Bfilter&amp;qid=1559702707&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-4&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1

4 XLR cables $40 https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003JJQMD8/ref=psdcmw_11973421_t2_B00018CXV0

5 Microphone stands $60
https://www.amazon.com/InnoGear-Upgraded-Adjustable-Microphone-Snowball/dp/B07F82BPLV/ref=mp_s_a_1_20?keywords=microphone+stand&amp;amp;qid=1559703326&amp;amp;s=gateway&amp;amp;sprefix=microphone+st&amp;amp;sr=8-20

Audio interface $150
Amazon.com: BEHRINGER Audio Interface, 4-Channel (UMC404HD): Gateway

Total: $370

u/kaXcalibur · 2 pointsr/podcasts

I just bought a mixer, 3 XLR cables and 3 XLR mics for $300.

I would look into the Mackie ProFX12V2, it's $250. Then look at the Behringer XM8500. And you can put together a good setup at a decent price. You're probably looking at $400-ish, for what you're wanting.

You could go for an omnidirectional condenser mic, but you're going to have to be careful about background noise, as it's probably going to pick everything up. Also, you'll have to be more mindful of everyone's speaking volume and nervous ticks (tapping feet, clicking pens, for example). You'll want to treat your room where you're recording, using blankets and rugs to deaden the sound.

We used to record with Four Hosts using the Blue Yeti and Audacity. It works fine, but the sound isn't as ideal as you could get from a well treated studio or using a mixer and dynamic mics.

I don't think headphones are a super necessity, but if you're using an omnidirectional mic, it'll help you be more mindful of who needs to speak louder.

u/AMightyYeti · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

There's also the scissor arms that attach to your desk. They're not very durable, but fine once you get the microphone set up. Just don't expect to be moving the mic all over the place.

u/Jakecore · 2 pointsr/battlestations

I can only imagine that the PAD would shut them up. If your that concerned about picking up background noise in an open mic setting the only way I see to go about it is to have an audio interface (I have the modestly priced scarlett2i2 http://www.amazon.ca/Focusrite-2i2-USB-Recording-Interface/dp/B005OZE9SA which has wonderfully warm sounding preamps) and then a mic that hooks up via 1/4 inch or XLR. In which case you cant go wrong with a blue spark (http://www.amazon.ca/Microphones-Spark-Condenser-Microphone-Cardioid/dp/B004BR20OM) Which I love or even something cheaper. Ive had a couple apex mics around the 100 dollar mark that actually sounded quite nice as well.

EDIT-I can't spell

u/MantisToboganMD · 2 pointsr/audio

Beaky is right, at that price you can find an interface with built in pre's. Way better.

120 shipped with prime refurb:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B005OZE9SA/ref=dp_olp_refurbished?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;condition=refurbished

Model up new shipped with prime for 138
http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B009B15N0Q/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;condition=new


These act as offboard sound cards, headphone amps, dacs and can drive 2 xlr mics in stereo. Way better deal/upgrade overall. You could probably find em even cheaper, I just searched 'focusrite' on amazon. The focusrite scarlet series is fantastic for the price.

u/theroarer · 2 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

Nope, it would absolutely be perfect. Get a Scarlett 2i2 to start you off with a really nice, but basic set-up.

You can gradually move on from there.

Even just buying a second microphone, like a dynamic mic for other applications (plug for a SM57 clone) would make your versitility unbeatable on a budget.

You will learn a ton, and achieve pretty great sound if you work hard.

u/WavyCrusade · 2 pointsr/headphones

Budget - 100-200 Euro price range

Source - Google Pixel and Desktop Computer

Isolation - Just don't want them to leak to much sound

Preferred type of headphone - Overear. Wired

Past headphone - I've never had headphones before. I don

Preferred music - HipHop, Rnb, and 60s-early80s rock.

Improve - I am looking for something that has low impeadence so I hopefully won't have to use an external amp with but I have heard the pixel's sound output is bad.
If I need to get an external amp/DAC or something to make something 60 or 32 ohms work for the pixel i'll get one.

Country - Ireland


These have been the ones I've been looking at


beyerdynamic DT 770 PRO Studio Headphones - 32 Ohm https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B008POFOHM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_08OdAbJXGWDCF

Audio-Technica ATH-M50X Studio Monitor Professional Headphones - Black https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00HVLUR86/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_TaPdAbWBX3N1X

DT 880 Edition 32 ohm HiFi headphones https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0024NK358/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4bPdAbVDDA4AA

AKG K702 Reference Open-Back Over-Ear Studio Headphones https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001RCD2DW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_BdPdAbM690AXM


Sennheiser HD 569 Around-Ear Closed Back Headphones - Black https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01L1IIF1A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_bkPdAbMVHAJ7A


Thanks

u/jejetteaway · 2 pointsr/reasoners

I have Reason 7 and a Mac Book (13 inch, non retina, 2012). Everything is just fine and projects from Reason 3 can be used with no problem.

When I was buying a Mac Book the retina was like $600 more than the base model so I went with that, and I'm glad I did. You don't need a retina display to make music.

Also I use an external display, so I never even open the Mac (actually I could probably have just bought a mac mini and it would be the same).

So, you're an engineer...be careful - just get a limited rig and then start making music. Do NOT start reading about everything that's available, your engineering brain will take over and you'll never get around to making music - instead you'll just fall into gear acquisition syndrome.

I would also advise getting the following:

A bluetooth Mac keyboard, a blue tooth mouse, and 4 or 8 rechargeable AA batteries (the batteries are key), and an external display.

For monitors a pair of Jbl LSR305. These seem to be the best "bang for your buck" monitors and in online reviews people will not shut up about how good they sound for $150. Avoid Rokits.

As for midi, I'd say get a good midi keyboard and a good set of drum pads. If you want cheap and easy I'd go for a nanoPad2
If you want something a bit more involved (and actually this is what you should get) go for the padKontrol

You'll need keys. Since you say you're a composer you'll need at least 49 keys (61 and 88 are obviously better, and best). When I was buying stuff the MPK49 was pretty much the best thing you could get (except for the pads). The MPK249 is coming out soon and supposedly has better pads, but we'll see.

And finally an audio interface. I have an Echo Audiofire4 which isn't made anymore (btw it's fucking awesome so if you can find one used, do it). It seems the focusrite 2i2 is the most popular choice among newbies...personally I'd go for something with more inputs. RME and MOTU seem to the best but you'll pay a lot more (though in the long run it's worth it).

I would also say, go slow. There are a ton of cheap midi controllers (like $50-$100) so just get one, see what you like and move on from there. DO NOT cheap out on your audio interface. Your audio interface is the most important part of the whole chain.

So, Reason 7 on a Mac and an external display/mouse/keyboard, some keys and pads, an audio interface, and a good pair of monitors and you're set.

Hope this helps.

u/rugyg · 2 pointsr/diysound

While I personally have not used one. Google 3.5mm 2 in 1 out mixer

here is one I found on amazon that should get the job done. Look around for one you like in your price range.

Edit: looks like the reviews say that one sucks but just use it as an example for what you need.

u/Pedro747 · 2 pointsr/headphones

What about DT 770? The 32 ohm version should be fine with you sources.

u/justanotherdickweed · 2 pointsr/audiophile
u/monsieurpeanutman · 2 pointsr/BuyItForLife

I actually offer some advice. I can't comment on bifl-ness but for the price you'll likely not find anything with this sort of quality and oomph. And because they are studio monitors they have built in drivers/amps making them a good choice if you're not trying to take up a ton of space. Don't be fooled by the size they are actually very loud. Be warned though that because they are studio monitors they will give a very accurate sound (I.e. These are not beats-by-dre gotta have the bass at 11 kinda speakers). I have the 305's which I've linked and have loved them so far. The 308's have 8 inch subs rather than 5. Be sure to keep in mind that you will need 2 of them as they are sold as single speaker.

http://www.amazon.com/JBL-Professional-LSR305-Studio-Monitor/dp/B00DUKP37C

u/Mikzeroni · 2 pointsr/podcasting

My recommendation go to is always the ATR-2100. For ~$70 each you can't go wrong. If that's too expensive you can grab the Samson Q2u which I've been using now for years and love.

You definitely want a dynamic mic if you'll be recording with 3 hosts and you can even pick up a little scissor stand for $12.

So, 3 Q2u = $180 + 3 arms ($36) = $216 which isn't bad for a whole podcast setup as long as you have an audio recorder of some kind. Best of luck and let me know if you have questions!

u/thatguyol · 2 pointsr/battlestations

This is he arm you’re looking for

Currently £9.50 on prime, absolute steal. I got 5 so I don’t have to look again if one wears out.

Neewer® Microphone Suspension Boom Scissor Arm Stand (Mic Stand Only, No Microphone or Pop Screen Included) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00DY1F2CS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_d8KYAbQ3RWH6Y

u/aerofly0610 · 2 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

I LOOOOVEEEEEE these!! I can hear everything and they hit decent on the lows. With the extra budget, maybe go with 8" version but it's double the price.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DUKP37C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1

Edit: This is what i have for interface. The free software is worth more than the interface. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E6T50LY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1

u/seth51315 · 2 pointsr/AverageBattlestations
u/RockyValderas · 2 pointsr/volcas

Here’s a super simple mixer that will mix up to four inputs down to one. You’ll lose the stereo this way, but it’s a really cheap and easy way to mix your volcas. You’ll also still need an audio interface if you want to record to your computer. But you could get away with a single channel interface. Again, this would mean losing your stereo image.

Amazon Link

u/smoitie · 2 pointsr/audiophile

1. What is your budget?

My ideal spend is listed below. I can probably go to £450 / ~$560

2. What are you looking for?

I'm looking for a beginner-ish set up for use with my PC. This is what I've come up with so far and just wanted some input, see what I can change etc.



Component | Price
---|---
Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 | £124.00 / $154.99
Audio-Technica ATH-M50X | £128.00 / $159.93
Audio-Technica AT2020 | £89.99 / $112.48
Boom arm and pop shield | £17.98 / $22.49
Edifier R1000TCN 2.0 Bookshelf Speakers | £45.95 / $57.48
Total | £405.92 / $507.71



I'm looking for middle of the road but excellent quality gear. This list was compiled by research and reviews on the best bang for your buck components.


3. How will you typically be using the gear?

Speakers will be next to my monitor so ~arms length away.


4. What gear do you own?

Unfortunately I own a "gaming" headset. It was cheap at the time I purchased it and I never gave it a second thought but now I think is the time to upgrade to a proper set up.

5. What do you intend on using for a source?

The source will be my PC.

6. What material will you be using your gear for?

This will be typically used for every day gaming, streaming, and listening to music through streaming services. I usually wear headphones for very long periods so comfort and lightness are extremely necessary. The bookshelf speakers listed above are only cheap ones for this reason, as I listen through headphones the majority of the time. The music I listen to varies quite a bit depending on the mood, from djent and tech metal, to lounge and soft house.

edit: clarity

u/einmalistkeinmal · 2 pointsr/audiophile

For non-simultaneous playback:

Here's what you could do:
Buy one 3.5mm Stereo Male to Two RCA Male Splitter Cable, and one 2 x RCA Male, 1 x 3.5mm Stereo Female, Y-Cable 6-Inch. Also get a 3-Way Audio Video AV RCA Switch Selector Box Splitter. That all together is $9.82 US.

Connect the xbox to your TV as normal. Use the RCA cable included with the splitter to connect your TV's audio output to the Splitter's Input 1. You don't need to connect the yellow video connection on that cable. Then use a male 3.5mm Stereo to RCA cord to connect your laptop/iphone's headphone jack to the Splitter's Input 2. Plug the 2 x RCA Male, 1 x 3.5mm Stereo Female, Y-Cable 6-Inch cable into the Splitter's Output, and connect your headphones to the 3.5mm female end. You should then easily be able to switch between ipod/laptop and xbox/tv sound feeding to your headphones by adjusting the splitter's output switch. This is a very basic setup, but should achieve what you're going for as long as you didn't want the two inputs playing simultaneously.

For simultaneous playback:

Here's what you could do (I admit this is probably a bit of a wrap around way of doing it, but it was fun to come up with):

Buy:
Two Behringer MICROMIX MX400 4-Channel Mixer, one 3.5mm Stereo Male To 2 RCA Male Cable, one Male RCA to male RCA cable, one male RCA to female 3.5mm cable, six 3.5mm to 2RCA female adapter, and six 1/4 inch to 1/8 inch stereo jack adapters. This setup without shipping and handling costs $75.55 US.

This thing only outputs in mono though, so it doesn't benefit your headphones greatly (only one side will play sound). This is why we're gonna get two of them though, and this is the fun part. Check out this picture: http://i.imgur.com/UPMX5j2.png. It has the steps included with a crude illustration. The benefit of this setup is that you can have the ipod/laptop coming in at a different volume than the tv/xbox. Also has space for two more inputs if your ever have more you want to plug in (or to allow a laptop and ipod to be plugged in at the same time).

I... I think that setup would work.




u/SourCrisps · 2 pointsr/Twitch

nah man, thats a great webcam, most people have webcams on 720p anyway, plus it has the added feature to crop you out of the background as well if you cant afford to get a real greenscreen set up. as for mics, most people roll with the blue yeti as the best recommendation as the gain can pick up your voice at any distance as well as have a mute button. downsides being that its a usb mic and "pro" streamers usually go xlr, but for us where streaming is a hobby it works just fine. Also, you need to buy a boom arm (https://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-Microphone-Suspension-Broadcasting-Voice-Over/dp/B00DY1F2CS this is what I use) with a decent shock mount because the mount it comes with is garbage picking up all the taps or any shaking. Cheers and good luck streaming! hope this helps.

u/fsv · 2 pointsr/buildapc

A cheap sound mixer, maybe? Something like this would do the job.

u/Justinicus · 2 pointsr/headphones

BEHRINGER U-PHORIA UM2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EK1OTZC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_R7krzbMNWP0MW

The link probably won't help a lot, as I don't imagine you live in the US, but at least you can see the product! But Behringer has a good reputation for entry-level recording gear. You would still need a microphone and headphones if you don't already have them.

What do you want to use it for? Gaming? Singing? I'm no expert, but I might be able to point you at least in the right direction for microphones and headphones.

Save a little money for adapters, though. Most mixers and interfaces will want 1/4" or XLR inputs. Most consumer-level microphones will have a 3.5mm plug. Likewise, the output will likely need to be converted from 1/4" or RCA to 3.5mm

u/honkimon · 2 pointsr/synthesizers

I will do my best. I am only a month in to this madness. And when I started I wanted to emulate a workflow similar to how stuff was done in the early to mid 90s. Sort of faux hardware sequencing. The reason being every time I sit in front a DAW for a creative project I feel devoid of inspiration. So here's the current setup:

Hardware:

iPad Pro 1st gen connected to a USB hub via Lightning to USB 3 Camera Adapter.

LYFNLOVE USB Hub 3.0 Splitter,7 Port USB Data Hub with Power Adapter and Charging Port

KORG nanoKontrol2 connected to USB hub

Behringer UM2 connected to the USB hub and hi/low out of Model D

Behringer Model D connected to USB hub for midi control and UM2 to pass audio to iPad

So how does all this work together? Well the center of my workflow sits AUM AUM is my mixer, playhead, midi routing, and effects insert hub. It's the glue that ties all the widgets together with a unified clock.

For synthesis I am currently using the following apps: MOOG Model 15, MOOG Animoog, Audiokit Synth One, Audiokit FM Player, Menace, and Blamsoft Viking Synth which I can run many instances of. And now of course The Model D.

For Sequencing the Synths I am using the Rozeta suite.

And for percussion/drum machine I am using Patterning 2 which I absolutely love to death. With my quest to eventually go all hardware and possibly just a eurorack it's going to be hard for me to let go of this because I like it so much.

For effects/DSP I use all of the apps produced by Audio Damage, Inc., Kosmonaut, &amp; RE-1 Tape Machine

For misc I use an app called Sector which is a nice sample slicer with a cool interface for introducing randomization to a sequence + effects to slices.

As previously mentioned. I am new to this and still learning. The apps I've mentioned merely are the tip of the iceberg as far as what /r/ipadmusic is capable of. I'm trying not to go too deep down that rabbit hole because I intend to go full hardware eventually. But it has been a great starting point to learn a lot of the basics and intermediate inner workings of how to use midi and some modular virtual patching.

I would be happy to answer any more questions. So far this (link to soundcloud, not just the one track RES is trying to make play)is most of what I've created with the newest to oldest representing the evolution of my learning curve. I have not recorded anything with the model d yet but plan to very soon.

u/fatmattdrums · 2 pointsr/Bass

tl;dr maybe try separate outputs for each pickup

If you want to go for something unique and versatile without spending much cash, you can go for a two-output configuration. On the Fender Jazz, this would involve putting a second output jack where the tone knob currently is. You can decide how to wire up the remaining knobs... maybe you don't need volume control for one pickup, but you do want tone control for it, or maybe you don't need tone control at all.

The idea is to have one pickup going to one output, and the other pickup going to the other. That way, you can put the effects on the sound of only one pickup.

I do this on my main bass. It has a fat mudbucker at the neck position, and it has a P-style pickup at the mid position, and the P-pickup is wired to a 0.0047 μF capacitor to kill the low end, so that it doesn't interfere with the mudbucker. The mudbucker runs clean to provide a huge low end, and the P-style pickup runs through an overdrive pedal to boost the treble and add some crunch, and also a phaser when I want something a little different. This way, all the effects only act on the attack and the fret buzz sound, while the low end can just be what it is.

Maybe you want something different, like putting thick fuzz on the neck pickup while the bridge pickup provides a clean, treble-rich attack with a little bit of chorus. Maybe you set up one pickup with a reverse tone knob... if you wire it up like it's a volume knob, and then bridge the terminals with something like a 0.0047 μF capacitor, you'll have a knob that turns down the low end while leaving the high end. There's a lot you can do, and this is a fairly easy mod that's fairly easy to undo if you don't like it. But if you like to use a lot of effects, having two signal chains with different frequency profiles can provide a lot of versatility.

If you have two amplifiers, great, but to combine the signals for one amplifier, you'll need something like this, which runs about $25: https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-MicroMIX-MX400-Low-Noise-4-channel/dp/B000KGYAYQ

Here's the thread where I describe the two-output mod I made to my bass: https://www.reddit.com/r/Bass/comments/5mn5my/gave_my_cheap_ibanez_a_new_paint_job_a_second/

When buying a new bass, the biggest thing to look for is how it feels. You can always change pickups and electronics and such, but finding a bass that's just fun and comfortable to play is the challenge. If you're interested in a Rickenbacker, it already has dual-output capability, so go to the music store with your pedals, and try a bunch of configurations with the effects, and you'll see what's possible.

u/abronia · 2 pointsr/Guitar

Ok, my original suggestion still stands. Here's what's the used market looks like on Reverb. Most are under budget, and you can buy an inexpensive interface and play through your computer for the time being. If you have a Mac, GarageBand is free and has a few amp models and even effects. If not, AmpliTube is another popular option, plus there are many more. I would think you would get much more enjoyment playing a better guitar, than by buying a cheap guitar and cheap amp.

If you'd rather not go the used route, here's some other suggestions, in addition to the Jazzmaster (obviously shop around for prices:)

Squier Vintage Modified Telecaster

Squier Classic Vibe Telecaster

Squier Vintage Modified Jaguar

Squier Standard Telecaster

G&amp;L Legacy

G&amp;L Tribute ASAT (My pick of the bunch.)

Basically, I would spend most of your budget on the guitar, and play through an interface. It'll be far less frustrating learning on a subjectively better quality guitar, then buying one that's half as much.

Hope that helps! (For what it's worth, I play similar music, and I have a Telecaster and a Strat style guitar.)

u/Crymoricus · 2 pointsr/audiodrama

This - $58.99

This - $99.00

This - the one with the stand ($48.00)

and This - $12.50

Total: $218.49

The "soundproof shield" on the mic stand isn't enough. The only reason I say you should get it is because it will allow you to hang a blanket over your mic. You want something heavy with a cotton-like, or very dense surface. You can hang the blanket there and "duck in" to do your voice work. You can take a phone in with your lines on it so you don't have to duck in and out so much. The point is that there is no such thing as a good mic that doesn't need soundproofing, period.

With this condenser mic, good soundproofing (blanket), and the heavy pop filter, you will be surprised at the quality. The Behringer audio interface is basically an amp, you know, and it's totally fine for voice work. And remember, this is NOT a USB mic! It NEEDS an audio interface.

I realize it's more than the option already presented, but it's just so worth it. It really is so much about that blanket. The fact is if you want to sound pro without spending pro money, you need to stick your head in there and just put up with that. The results are 100% worth it.

One other thing: if you find that pop filter isn't enough, and you're still hearing "mouth clicks" (this setup, without filter, will pick up every little sound the inside of your mouth makes -- and the inside of your mouth actually makes a LOT of unintended noise, if you didn't know it), start layering on thin nylon fabric (panty hose will work) until it's gone to your satisfaction.

Here's me using this exact setup (I have tried other inexpensive setups!)

https://soundcloud.com/dan-williams-214914755/credits-1/s-881qi?in=dan-williams-214914755/sets/a-house-in-wayward-canyon/s-cfvoq

u/KaosC57 · 2 pointsr/headphones

Personally, I wouldn't bother with a Modmic 5. My recommendation is going with a Neewer NW-700 Kit with an Arm and Filter, an XLR to XLR cable, and a Behringer Uphoria UM-2 Audio Interface. Plug the Neewer Mic in through XLR to the UM-2, and plug your 598's in with the large jack (1/4" IIRC) and plug the UM-2 in through USB. You get a knob to adjust gain on the Mic and the Headphones, and it's all managed through USB!

Links to things:

Microphone Kit

Behringer Interface

XLR to XLR Cable

u/NastyMcBurgers · 2 pointsr/battlestations

I see you have a snoball, I would suggest you add these good little guys to it. It makes it so much better.

http://amzn.com/B00DY1F2CS

http://amzn.com/B008AOH1O6

u/sharkamino · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

I don't know about availability in Finland but in the US HART Mini Mixers, BEHRINGER MICROMIX MX400, or Rolls MX42 Stereo Mini Mixer.

u/TemptedTemplar · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Honestly, the Splatoon headset audio mixer is your best bet.

There are PLENTY of other options for combining mic and system audio while retaining the microphone function, but none of them are un-powered AND this cheap.

Astro makes a line of 3.5mm mix amps which do work, but start at $130 and require a power source (USB would work)

You can get a semi-professional device for $65. But again, requires a power source.

There are devices that are equally cheap, but they do require a power source; and this one specifically also requires 3.5mm to 1/4" plug adapters.

u/Data_Error · 2 pointsr/geektogeekcast

So, an audio mixer, basically?

I don't know of any headphone sets that would have a mixer built in, especially given mixers generally want some sort of power source (and people as a general rule don't want to have to charge their headphones).

u/dad_farts · 2 pointsr/Bass

An aux input would be ideal for your needs, but if your amp doesn't have that then you need to mix the signals.

A cable like u/TheShakerDuster described exists, but it's more like two male 1/4" on one side and stereo aux on the other. Reason being that it is actually a two channels in, two channels out arrangement, with one 1/4" connected to each side of the stereo. Two inputs will not work with one output because it will allow the electronics at either side to interact in an unpredictable manner. It would connect your guitar directly to the headphone jack on your phone and vice versa.

If you want both your guitar and phone signals going into the instrument input of your amp then you're going to need a mixer. Here is an example although for your purposes you might be able to find one with a 3.5 stereo input, a 1/4" mono input, and 1/4" mono output.

u/harroldo25 · 2 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

You could use a small mixer and a headphone amp, especially if you have no intention of recording.

You'll want enough inputs for all of your instruments. If you have 4 instruments playing in your band then you'll need 4 input channels.

The cheapest way would be:

4 input mixer (all on TRS jacks - you would have to convert XLR to jack and you wouldn't be able to send phantom power to condenser microphones).
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Micromix-MX400-Low-Noise-4-Channel/dp/B000KGYAYQ

4 channel headphone amp.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Headphone-Amps/Behringer-HA400-Microamp-Headphone-Amplifier/B000KIPT30

Cable to connect the two boxes. The cable must be TRS otherwise you'll only get the left side or right side only - guitar cable wouldn't be great.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Stagg-SAC3PS-DL-Deluxe-Instrument/dp/B0030LVCDK/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?crid=377W0ZHNLRN5W&amp;amp;keywords=trs+cable&amp;amp;qid=1555711034&amp;amp;s=gateway&amp;amp;sprefix=trs+&amp;amp;sr=8-5

You would hear sound, it's cheap and compact. If you're willing to spend more money then you could get more expensive equipment. It wouldn't be pretty but it would do for starting out along with a sub £50 investment.

u/OilsFan · 2 pointsr/Guitar

I use a Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 USB interface which you can get for about $115 if you shop around. For a mic I have a Sennheiser e609 ($109) and a AKG P120 ($79) but the sennheiser is way better than that particular AKG. I use Reaper for recording.

Someone mentioned the little handheld digital units like a Tascam Dr-07. Those work pretty good but you have to then copy the file into your computer if you want to edit it.

u/Tman5293 · 2 pointsr/headphones

For your friend:

I recommend that she picks up a pair of Beyerdynamic Custom One Pros. You can get them here: http://www.amazon.com/Beyerdynamic-Custom-One-Pro-Black/dp/B008XEYT48/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1369159044&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=beyerdynamic+custom+one+pro

They are great headphones and only have a 16Ω impedance so powering them is not going to be a problem.

Another headphone I would recommend would be the Beyerdynamic DT770 Pro 32Ω edition. Similar to the Custom One Pros but with a little better bass response. You can get them here: http://www.amazon.com/Beyerdynamic-DT-770-Pro-Studio-Headphones-Limited/dp/B008POFOHM/ref=sr_1_5?s=aht&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1369159022&amp;amp;sr=1-5

For you:

Coming in right at $400 is the HiFiMAN HE-400. I haven't listened to these myself but I hear that they are the best headphones you can buy for $400. You can get them here: http://www.amazon.com/HiFiMAN-HE-400-Planar-Efficiency-Headphones/dp/B007ZG32I4/ref=sr_1_3?s=aht&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1369159720&amp;amp;sr=1-3

However, if you really want to step up I suggest you stretch your budget to the $500 mark and pick up the Sennheiser HD650. These are some of the best headphones out there and would be a considerable upgrade from what you currently have. Check them out here: http://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-HD-650-Headphones/dp/B00018MSNI/ref=sr_1_1?s=aht&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1369159720&amp;amp;sr=1-1

I honestly think that if you have the money for it then that is the way to go. I think the HD650s are more suited to the kind of music you like than the HE-400s anyway.

u/JimboLodisC · 2 pointsr/Chromecast

If you're looking for a simple 3.5mm audio splitter, they make those. I've heard you shouldn't have them funnel in from two line input sources because you could damage your speakers if more than one audio source was trying to push your speakers. Just don't use both your PC and CC Audio at the same time at a loud volume and you won't blow your speakers.

EDIT: To do it right, you need a mixer. Amazon has a couple options for $21 and $25.

u/galylag · 2 pointsr/volcas

This was a surprise to me, too, when I got my first Volca after collecting a few Pocket Operators. They still play nicely together, but not in the same way. If you plan on getting more Volcas, a Volca Mix &lt;https://www.korg.com/us/products/dj/volca_mix/\&gt; may not be a bad idea (it can power three additional ones), though it is more expensive than other solutions.

Otherwise, there are a number of affordable mono mixers out there. I've seen people mention the Behringer Micromix before &lt;https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Micromix-MX400-Low-Noise-4-Channel/dp/B000KGYAYQ\&gt;, but you'll need some adapters for 3.5mm to 6.35mm jacks. This will strictly be mono, however, so if you plan to add some stereo devices to the mix (pun intended), you'll hit a wall pretty quickly. Behringer has a range of other mixers, and you may want to check something out in the Xenyx range &lt;https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-502-Premium-5-Input-British/dp/B000J5UEGQ/ref=sr_1_9?crid=120WM7ZC873VD&amp;keywords=behringer+xenyx&amp;qid=1555091076&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=behringer+z%2Caps%2C160&amp;sr=8-9\&gt;, where even the lowest-end one (linked) will give you plenty of room to expand.

Personally, I just bought a Roland GO: Mixer &lt;https://www.amazon.com/Roland-GO-Mixer-Smartphones-GOMIXER/dp/B01MYC4DVP/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=roland+go+mixer&amp;qid=1555091001&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-1\&gt; to use between a Volca, a few PO's, and a microphone for straight-to-phone video/audio recording purposes, and I've enjoyed it. If you don't plan on recording things and just need something to mix, this will be super overkill for you.

u/byrel · 2 pointsr/guitarpedals

That will probably not work that well - you'll have the output buffers on the two channels in the 720 fighting each other which could possibly (probably won't but tough to say for sure) damage the pedal

running it into a small mixer this or this are both options - there are plenty more out there
is probably what you want to do

u/kkantouth · 2 pointsr/AudioPost

I just bought these guys. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DUKP37C/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1&amp;amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

From what I've read they're beautiful. Anyone have anything negative about them they've experienced?

u/vedo1117 · 2 pointsr/audio

Just connecting the wires together won't give you favorable results, you don't really have a choice when it comes to getting a mixer (they exist for a reason), it'll allow you to mix signals together and control volumes too. You can get something like this and it'll give you everything you need. You just need to get a couple of 3.5mm to RCA adapters and you're in business.

u/falanor · 2 pointsr/dauntless

You can get an adjustable mic arm.

u/zascar · 2 pointsr/Beatmatch

I'm also in the same situation and the JBL 305's seem the best value
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DUKP37C/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;amp;psc=1

u/mstrblueskys · 2 pointsr/TwinCities

I have a buddy who runs a music studio, but if you needed the space, he'd definitely set it up for a podcast interview.

I do tend to agree that you should be able to get pretty close to studio sound on a budget assuming you have a computer already. I understand that sometimes owning stuff is a huge hassle itself, but if it's something you want to do a few times, the cost savings would start to be there.

Since no one has given you any real advice on how to do this, I can give it a shot.

I'd start by installing Audacity on your computer. It's super basic, but what you're doing is super basic. And it's super free. That's a huge plus.

Next, decide how you want to do microphones. First, you'll want stands. If it's an interview/two person thing, you'll need a couple of these (or more if you want more mics). We're at $25 for two now.

Next, decide what quality you want to be at. The Blue Snowball is a pretty great entry level microphone. I've honestly never run two into a computer before, but I imagine it'd be easy enough to record two different microphones on two different tracks in Audacity. That would bring our total to around $150. To upgrade in this way, you would go to something like the Blue Yeti. At over $100/unit, that adds another $100 to your cost.

The other way to do microphones is using a USB Interface for your computer and buying standard microphones. I'm keen on that option because it's a little more flexible if and when you look to upgrade your setup. You can use $15 microphones to get by or if you're locked and loaded, you can upgrade to really nice condensers.

As far as soundproofing goes, you can decide if that's possible wherever you're at. The last voice over project I worked on, I hung blankets in my bedroom and that was perfectly fine. Obviously that's not the most professional look, but there wasn't a pile of ambient noise to deal with and the directional mics do a good job focusing on your voice. You can build sound dampening walls with plywood, insulation, and fabric if you really want. It takes a staple gun, some screws, and about an hour per panel.

Assuming you have the time, an okay computer, and about $300, you could really build yourself a nice studio. If this is a one off kind of thing, it's definitely not worth it. My buddy's place is called, The Petting Zoo and I'd be more than willing to ask him details if you want.

Either way, good luck!

u/Aelpa · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

A Digital to Analogue convertor, it turns the binary data stored on your PC into an analogue electrical signal, every digital device that can output audio has to have one.

The ones built into old motherboard tend to be atrocious with an awful SNR (signal to noise ratio).

Picking up an external DAC or headphone amplifier will fix your issue, as the noise is induced at this conversion stage.

This DAC is widely regarded as an amazing bargain, and it has a dedicated hardware control for your headphone volume, which is always really handy.

Click for Behringer UCA202

A review of the Behringer

u/ultramoustache3 · 2 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

i use a behringer uca202. its a usb audio interface that you can usually find on used sites for like 25 $. you could use it as a headphone amp too and itd be better than yr computers soundcard..
https://www.amazon.ca/Ultra-Low-Latency-Interface-Digital-Output/dp/B000KW2YEI

u/Kaligraphic · 2 pointsr/audio

A simple audio interface: https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-U-Control-Low-Latency-Interface-Digital/dp/B000KW2YEI
with an RCA to mono 1/4" cable. The main output will be in the range you want. Configure as mono on the attached computer.

Don't use a headphone amplifier.

u/y0y0ma · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

I've heard of their 3020, but supposedly the Concept 20 is the same driver in a different cabinet? The What HiFi review makes it sound like the cabinet alone is worth the price difference. That could be true, but I am not going to rely on their word for it. I think it would be best if you could arrange for an audition or, better still, buy them with a good return policy so you can send them back if you are not satisfied with them. This is the most reliable way you could test out 2 speakers because you know best what is important for you. As for bass, it is also part of the music and I feel a faithful reproduction is essential to the experience. I do not own a subwoofer myself because I am satisfied with my MB Quart 490 and their 7.5" woofer. The bass is present but not overpowering at all and it makes all the difference when listening to Pink Floyd or The Coup.

Anyway, what I meant was the audio files will be converted from digital to analog at one point. In your case, it would be the PC's onboard solution. Now, depending on your PC, your onboard solution could be great or it could suck (distortion/constant hum etc.) ! To get around this some people use the digital output on their PC (USB/HDMI/Optical) and the conversion is performed using another device. Since usually stereo amplifiers do not have any way of accepting digital input, the go-to choice is a separate DAC like Fiio D03K / Behringer UCA202. Some people also a get a headphone DAC like Fiio E10K because they need a portable amp for their headphone in addition to a DAC. Others may need more than just a DAC - for example there could be a need to take the HDMI input and send the video to a TV and the audio to speakers. This is where a receiver comes in. A receiver is basically an amp + many more options for inputs, but it could be overkill if you only need a DAC. Used receivers could be cheap, though, and they are quite popular because of the input options you get. Goes without saying that you may not need a separate DAC at all, but just something to consider.

Phew! Hope that helps! :)

u/shinnagins · 2 pointsr/battlestations

It's the NEEWER stand, which i linked below. I like it pretty well but I had to get an adapter to get the yeti to fit correctly which I linked below. All in it does exactly what I wanted for a good price.

Stand:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DY1F2CS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1
Adapter:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001H5OSCI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1

u/snowtx · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Despite the fact that both speakers seem to be a similar price, the Inclines will considerably cheaper and closer to your budget once you account for cables and a subwoofer (provided you actually need one).

Regardless of what you buy, I suggest first trying the speakers without a subwoofer to hear whether you actually miss the last bit of low frequency sound. Both of my suggestions produce fairly low bass, JBL 305 rated at 43 Hz +/- 3 db and who knows about the Inclines as Def Tech doesn't report frequency response using the standard +/- 3 db (most likely they reach somewhere in the 50s?).

For the 305s, you are less likely to need a sub. Also, connecting a sub to the monitors can be complicated and will depend upon your overall setup. A related issue is whether you will be using an external digital-to-analog converter (DAC) - I recommend you do so for the improved sound quality and that you get one with a volume control. I think the best value approach is buy a pro audio interface - these have a DAC, volume control, and the types of cable connections that would facilitate mating your monitors and sub, plus other features that are used by recording musicians. I have the Steinberg UR22 (paid about $115 shipped new off ebay) but you can do fine with cheaper options: Lexicon Alpha has been recommended https://www.amazon.com/Lexicon-2-Channel-Desktop-Recording-Studio/dp/B000HVXMNE/ref=sr_1_6?s=musical-instruments&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1472738288&amp;amp;sr=1-6&amp;amp;keywords=audio+interface or the Behringer UCA202 https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=sr_1_5?s=musical-instruments&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1472738288&amp;amp;sr=1-5&amp;amp;keywords=audio+interface

I went ahead and got the matching JBL LSR310S, but it is expensive ($400 usually but I got mine new on ebay for $279). It was worth it to me as I work from home and listen to some electronic music. Here are ebay listings now: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&amp;amp;_sacat=0&amp;amp;_nkw=jbl+lsr310s&amp;amp;_sop=15 Monoprice has a studio sub at $220 that would work (http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=115&amp;amp;cp_id=11504&amp;amp;cs_id=1150401&amp;amp;p_id=605999&amp;amp;seq=1&amp;amp;format=2 For cable connections it will depend on what audio interface you get (suggest you buy cables from Monoprice for their support - don't bother with Guitar Center or similar places as their cable prices are very high), however, I think you need the following: for the Behringer you have to use unbalanced connections, qty 4 TRS male x RCA male cables, a) connect the interface to your computer with the supplied USB cable, b) then connect the interface input to the sub input using two (left &amp; right) male TRS x RCA cables, and c) then two more male TRS x RCA (one each, L&amp;R) from the sub output to the 305s input. For the Lexicon Alpha, you would connect in a similar manner but can use balanced connections, total of 4 male TRS x male TRS.

For the Inclines and in considering your initial budget goal, you could go with any of the budget subs. My son has the Dayton SUB-800 http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sub-800-8-80-watt-powered-subwoofer--300-627 ($99 - $5 Labor Day coupon + $6.95 shipping). I'd spend another $20 and get the Dayton SUB-1000 because it supposedly goes down to 30 Hz http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sub-1000-10-100-watt-powered-subwoofer--300-628 You would need a subwoofer cable for the connection, such as https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-ULTRA-Subwoofer-Cable-Feet/dp/B003FVYXY0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1472740255&amp;amp;sr=8-3&amp;amp;keywords=subwoofer+cable

As I mentioned before, one the nice things about the Incline is that it has a built-in DAC; however, the "manual" isn't very helpful - this review does a good job of explaining the source input hierarchy and how to engage the DAC (there isn't an input selection switch so you have to unplug cables to make sure the DAC overrides your computer onboard sound card - in any case, use the USB input or optical for DAC): http://www.audioholics.com/computer-speaker-reviews/definitive-technology-incline-desktop-speakers-review

u/LEntless · 2 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

Is there a newer one that you can link that is a different design?

Unless if you're talking about Neewer brand that I bought in q3 2017.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00DY1F2CS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1


It broke in the exact same way - where the arm assembly joins the base (the ~4" hollow metal rod). Cheap metal that warps, weakens, then finally snaps. Lasted around 7 months. Wouldn't recommend.

Was thinking of buying a rode psa1 once a good deal lands....maybe black friday. However, looking at pictures, it appears to be a similar design.



u/HowManySmall · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

Barely one at all. It's basically the same mic with a different form factor. It's heavier and harder to position, so that alone will factor into the sound quality.

This plus this is a real upgrade. Or if you wanna get a cheaper mic, this is still better.

EDIT: Probably should mention that you're gonna want a boom arm, pop filter, and the XLR to 3.5mm cable too.

u/chrizzle420 · 2 pointsr/indieheads

I would recommend getting a cheap audio interface and some versatile mic like a sm57. I have a 4 channel version of this interface and it's definitely good enough for my needs. The one channel version is only $30 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EK1OTZC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ll9YBbZ62BZ8E

u/egamble · 2 pointsr/audiophile

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EK1OTZC and get a 3.5mm to 1/4 adapter

u/Vee_It_Nam · 2 pointsr/Guitar

The Behringer UM2s will do the same job, although they are quite a bit cheaper and feel cheaper.

I wouldn't suggest things like the Guitar Link though. The UM2 would be the lowest I'd go for something like that

u/MPGlenn1202 · 2 pointsr/audioengineering

What about something like this?

I’m not dropping $500+ on something that might work out

u/asdf767 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

this is the cheapest usb dac that i would use. Or an fiio e3 if you have optical or coax output on your pc.


For about $80 i would get a fiio e10k

u/Guardian-Of-Nothing · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

That Emotiva amp has been around for a few years in various trim. Sherbourn marketed it as a small integrated amp too. I've owned the Sherbourn and the A-100 and they are both good. The A-100 is great for headphones too.

As for the DAC, what is the source? CD or a PC? A decent CD should have a built in DAC, and for a PC Behringer makes a great sounding DAC for $30, model UCA202. DACs do not need to bust the bank account.

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-U-Control-UCA202-Ultra-Low-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=behringer+dac&amp;qid=1566878565&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3

u/thorltd · 2 pointsr/headphones
u/zaqttack · 2 pointsr/battlestations

makes sense! Though if you want to get that mic off your desk I'd highly recommend this mic stand. I've had it for about 2 years now with no problems, especially for the price.

u/minja · 2 pointsr/audio
u/mxmr47 · 2 pointsr/audiophile

buy this PC-UCA 202- (rca output to receiver) and headphone ouput to logitech speakers. If you have headphones connect them to the receiver's hp output. edit; i just realized i didn't answer your question (control the volume with the receiver), but that product i linked will help your sound quality.

u/MoogleMan3 · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

It's in the title, but yeah, needs an audio interface.

Here's a decent interface for $42.71.

u/Lucidiously · 2 pointsr/microphones

Hello, I'm looking for a cheap(preferably under €50) desk mic for voice recording/streaming and discord. I'm not looking for the highest quality, just something that will do the job well enough and is a good value. But I'm completely new to this and not really sure where to start and what to look for.

I might be able to get a used Blue Snowball including arm, shockmount and filter for €45.(new without any extras they are €60 here)

Other than that I've been looking at this Neewer NW-700. Reading up on stuff it seems to me that my onboard audio wouldn't be enough to give a decent sound quality and I would need a preamp, am I right in thinking that? If so would it be a good idea to pair it with a Behringer umc22, which would cost me about €65 total.

So my questions are these, what would be the best out of these two, do I need a preamp with an XLR mic and are there other options that would be better for around €50?

Thanks!

u/Edolas_Meh · 2 pointsr/audioengineering

Hello everyone,
I've spent around $70 to create a starter microphone kit
https://www.amazon.com/BEHRINGER-Audio-Interface-1-Channel-UM2/dp/B00EK1OTZC/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=behringer&amp;amp;qid=1556586996&amp;amp;s=gateway&amp;amp;sr=8-5
and
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Professional-Broadcasting-Microphone-Adjustable/dp/B00XOXRTX6/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=nw+700&amp;amp;qid=1556587015&amp;amp;s=gateway&amp;amp;sr=8-1
Although obviously it isn't top quality, I feel that it is fine for what I will do (streaming, podcasts).
I've set everything up but I have ran into a couple problems. When I download drivers for the Behringer audio interface, although I have everything plugged in I keep getting "Timeout 0x0005 error". I switch to Asio4All and I download it but I cannot access the hub as it doesn't access. Any help?

u/MisterKpak · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Currently using the AT2020, running through the Focusrite Scarlett 2i2

This is actually the same audio interface I installed in a radio production studio, and is essentially the same setup minus the in-my-case-unnecessary sound board, just without the electrovoice RE20

u/tmccoy00 · 2 pointsr/Beatmatch

Plugging the Line Level output of the mixer to the amplified microphone input of your laptop is probably resulting in excessive clipping - hence the distorted output.

An Audio Interface with at least one stereo input is probably what you are after. There are a number of options like the Scarlet FocusRite series are worth looking into.

Maybe even something like this?

http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1409908950&amp;amp;sr=8-3&amp;amp;keywords=audio+interface

u/cdargis · 2 pointsr/Guitar

Have you thought about micing your amp? I much prefer this method over using "line outputs". You can pick up an SM57 and an audio interface for a decent price off Amazon. This way you can setup your computer to play audio through the interface (and into headphones) when recording.


As far as the delay in Audacity, you can set up "Latency correction" in "Edit -&gt; Preferences -&gt; Audio I/O".

u/Smarble53 · 2 pointsr/Twitch

This is the way i've found out i could do this (at least on my computer). I can tell skype to go to whatever output you want, say the front headphone jack. Then have the game audio coming out of the speakers. Run both of those inputs to the mixer and you're done.

If you don't have an extra output, you could always get something like this, or maybe 2 if you want the 1/4 inch jacks to go into your mixer. Just set one as the skype out and the other as the system's main output

http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/

u/SaneBRZ · 2 pointsr/SuggestALaptop

&gt; ... so what specs should I be looking for in that regard?

With your budget you could get something with an Intel i5 and a 1080p display.

If you can wait with your pruchase, then get a Acer Aspire V5 473P-5602, which has a 1080p IPS touchscreen. It's currently out of stock and I don't know when it's going to be back, so ...

If you don't mind something refurbished, then I would recommend the Asus Q501LA which has also an 1080p IPS display. But check the warranty and the return policy. Not everyone is okay with that.

If you want to buy now, a Lenovo Z40 wouldn't be a bad choice. It even has a dedicated GPU.

&gt; Great audio: Yes

Behringer UCA202 Audio Interface. Get this. Laptops with a "decent soundcard" aren't a thing.

u/MrJackBurton · 2 pointsr/audiophile

I've been looking to get a pair of JBL 305s myself. I agree with others here that the hissing is likely due to using your on-board sound card versus an external USB DAC. Although you are likely using these studio monitors for listening rather than recording, a lot of people seem to use a USB audio interface with monitors like the Scarlett 2i2 that acts as a DAC with instrument recording capability. It has balanced 1/4" TSR outputs for monitors and if you ever decide to get an XLR condenser mic it has the input for that too.

It might be overkill for just a listening setup, but it's cheaper than an Audioengine D1 DAC. I can't speak to the quality difference since I own neither, but it seems you'd get a lot more for your money with the 2i2. Some comments I see is that the 2i2 doesn't have a very robust headphone amp built in for higher impedance headphones, though the same is likely true of the D1 DAC since it is also USB powered.

u/FinalRed · 2 pointsr/podcasts

Not sure how you're able to speak while monitoring with latency, it's incredibly distracting. In fact, this is how speech jamming works.

Like /u/JeamBim pointed out, you need an interface which has direct monitoring of audio before it goes to your computer (such as the Scarlett 2i2)

The cheapest option would be to not use headphones at all but if you need to hear audio from your computer, you'll need to get something to monitor.

u/indifference_engine · 2 pointsr/synthesizers

iPad, 'camera connection kit' &amp; behringer UCA202 works for me

u/alexburnsredd · 2 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

For vocals i'd recommend getting a Rhode NT1a. Pretty standard microphone and really versatile - http://www.amazon.co.uk/RODE-NT1-A-Condenser-Microphone-Bundle/dp/B0002PSCQM

You may be able to get a way with a Shure SM57 (for vocals) which is the industry standard microphone used for drums and guitars, etc... This will be your best option for guitar. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Shure-Sm57-Unidirectional-Dynamic-Microphone/dp/B000CZ0R3S/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1452608377&amp;amp;sr=1-1&amp;amp;keywords=sm57

As for recording music into your computer, you'll need an audio interface. The majority of beginners on this thread are using Scarlett Focusrites. I'd recommend a Focusrite 2i2

If you want something a bit more 'all-in-one' then get yourself a Line 6 UX2 which comes with PodFarm 2.0 this will let you plug in your guitar and choose from a wide array of amplification emulation as well as pedals, modulations, effects, etc...

You'll also need a Digital Audio Workstation or DAW to record all of this into. I'd recommend [Reaper.] (http://www.gak.co.uk/en/line6-pod-studio-ux2/18736?gclid=Cj0KEQiA5dK0BRCr49qDzILe74UBEiQA_6gA-gBCk9lx0GnveFDFGFZYNA_DnIs7sX9ozCRg7TgEon0aAi1J8P8HAQ)

There's some great YouTube videos out there that will help you with all of this stuff. I'd recommend this guy: https://www.youtube.com/user/recordingrevolution

u/mnLIED · 2 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

The thing about astroturfing is that you can never be sure which side is speaking truthfully and anecdotally, and which side is being misleading. I should have made that statement clearer, as it's not an attack on the Scarletts. I have never used one myself, and from what I've read, as soon as you start looking at the interfaces that are above $200-$300 all of the reviews seem to be from professionals that love them. Here are the 1-star reviews on Amazon, and here are the 5-star reviews. There are 250 5-star reviews to 25 1-star. Seems like a lot of the issues people have are superficial, poorly worded, and could be chalked up to user errors. Lots of amateur recording artists that don't know how to set up their I/O properly, rush to buy the best of the cheapest models and are upset that it doesn't make their mixes sparkle.

Astroturfing goes both ways. Sorry if that wasn't clear. I don't mean to shit on a product I have never used.

u/qMorick · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Get a good cheap pair of bookshelf speakers (or smth more expensive) connect them to an amp and either use a splitter cable to plug it directly into mobo's integrated sound or use a usb dac (with rca cables). You will also have to spend some money on speaker wire to connect speakers to amp.

EDIT: another option is to skip amp part and get a pair of powered studio monitors.

u/eVo_Xile · 2 pointsr/makinghiphop

I just got a new mic yesterday, the Audio-Technica AT2035 and a new interface, Focusrite Scarlett 2i2. I was super hyped leading up to it and it's one of the best purchases I've made in my opinion, and I'm still fine tuning things.

u/wryan12 · 2 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

I recently just bought an Imac and had a similar issue. I ended up getting a Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 and it's worked out really well for me so far. It has phantom power, two xlr/1/4 inch jacks, and plugs into your mac via usb.(it also comes with cubase and a it's own suite of reverbs)

I was in a rush so I got it at Guitar Center for around $150, but that seems around the price you were looking for.(I'll post the amazon link for you to check out)

http://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-2i2-USB-Recording-Interface/dp/B005OZE9SA

I've also used garageband for years and just made the jump to Loxic Pro X. There is a bit of a learning curve to the new DAW, but not as bad as I thought and I'm really loving it so far.

Best of Luck!

u/username303 · 2 pointsr/edmproduction

the audio 2 DJ interface, what does it do?

I'm completely out of my range here. is it for splitting the audio output into 4 channels? if so, would this do?:http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-%0AInterface/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&amp;amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;amp;qid=1322396456&amp;amp;amp;sr=1-1

u/pdxtone · 2 pointsr/Guitar

That's what I did, except I run it to a $30 USB soundcard. It took a lot of tweaking but I'm not even using a preamp and it doesn't sound bad at all. Spend more money if you can though.

u/modano_star · 2 pointsr/headphones

I think this is the right place to post this.

I am relatively new to headphones, but am looking to take the step of purchasing some dt770s , but am unsure of the differences between the 80ohm and the 250ohm. But then there is the limited edition. I would like to use them with my ipod at times, and am trying to avoid spending more money for an amp, because I really don't want to go above £120-130. So would the limited edition be the best for me because of their lower impedance (I think the Limited Editions are 32ohm?) Are there other factors to take into account?

Thanks

u/NationalPhenomenon · 2 pointsr/brandnew

The second pair of hi-fi headphones I bought were the Beyerdynamic DT-770-PRO-32. Got them last November after several years of rocking AKG K271s.
My only complaint with them is the cord, which can be too short depending on your needs. It's also hardwired in, so you can't replace or switch it out. They sound great and give you plenty of bass without it being overpowering, which is something my AKGs were lacking. I also use them without an amp.

u/TheXecuter · 2 pointsr/headphones

I would recommend the ath m50 too. But I wouldn't bother with the m50x, the x is just a prettier much more expensive version of the same thing.

But because you specifically said you don't want massively overwhelming bass I would recommend the dt770 32ohm over the m50.

u/MyUsernameIsJudge · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Those are usually around that price. I like polk but the T15's are not really anything special. You will also need an amp for those so if you don't wan to buy an amp then you can look at powered speakers.

These are a great value right now

https://www.amazon.com/Edifier-R1010BT-Bluetooth-Reference-Multimedia/dp/B071YV97LK/

For $50 powered speakers it'll be hard to beat that. They're being phased out but the Dayton MK402BT's would be another option on sale:

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-mk402bt-powered-bluetooth-2-way-bookshelf-speaker-pair-with-35mm-aux-in--300-458

They're upgrading to a newer model so they might run out soon, I bought one of the last pairs off Amazon recently.

https://www.amazon.com/JBL-305PMKII-Powered-Studio-Monitor/dp/B00DUKP37C/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=jbl%2Blsr305&amp;amp;qid=1563313580&amp;amp;s=gateway&amp;amp;sr=8-3&amp;amp;th=1

JBL LSR305's are on a big discount for $180 for the pair, it's hard to avoid recommending them with a $200 budget. Some of the most well known studio monitors out there.

u/-romainl- · 2 pointsr/coding

FWIW, the Beyerdynamics DT770 Pro 32 Ohm is every bit worth the price tag. Highly recommended.

u/roogoff · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/Halo6819 · 2 pointsr/videography

Im new to the game as well, but so far these are the things I have picked up for my G6:

first, i bought a G6 kit that came with some handy stuff

I have also purchased

A slightly better tripod

A flood light

Battery pack for said light

Variable ND Fader for filming out doors

Rode shotgun Mic

Zoom H1

Lav mic to go with the H1

Headphones to listen for levels

Triple Mount Hot Shoe

Backpack to hold everything

This is just a fun lens, and its cheap the 50mm means its a 100mm equivelent, so its for really tight portraits, but the low aperture is good for low/light and for a very shallow field depth. When I am able to use it, this lens produces the most popular results when i post them online.

new strap cause the one that comes with the G6 sucks!

What i want to get:

A bigger zoom lens I am mostly interested in videography(weddings etc), and this would be good for back of the house shots)

The M 3/4's "nifty fifty"

u/anderslistoe · 2 pointsr/headphones

Budget - $300

Source - Samsung Galaxy S4

Requirements for Isolation - It'd be best if nothing escaped or got in

Preferred Type of Headphone - Over-ear, closed

Preferred tonal balance - Balanced

Past headphones:
-M50s and Klipsch S4/R6i

Preferred Music - EDM/rap/rock

It's also important that I can wear them at the gym as that's my whole purpose in buying new headphones. I was looking at the DT770 Pro 32ohm but wasn't sure if the one at this amazon link would come with the 10 foot cable (not what I want).

u/Vliger2002 · 2 pointsr/headphones

Absolutely! I'm assuming you'll be using your phone for music?
A great set of headphones with great bass and clarity are the Beyerdynamic DT770. If you're intending to go simple and use the headphones with a portable device such as your phone or an iPod, you'd be wise to get the 32 Ohms version.

This "32 Ohms" is the measure of the headphone's impedance/resistance. This means that the headphone provides less resistance to the power being supplied by an amplifier. This means that with a lower impedance, your audio source's amplifier (phone, iPod, etc.) will be able to easily power to your headphones, and the headphones will have more volume and clarity.

The 250 Ohm version would need a decent amplifier—not found on phones. If you plugged a pair of headphones with an impedance of 250 Ohms into your phone, the headphones would resist a lot of the power coming from the phone's weak onboard amplifier—resulting in very low volume and clarity on the headphones.

I hope that I made sense with that description! Let me know if you have questions!

u/jj69rr · 2 pointsr/vinyl

You can get a Behringer UCA202 for $30 which will take care of it.

u/Runninback405 · 2 pointsr/Beatmatch

Wow you are so helpful, thank you.

So I think I've found a way that will work that involves less pieces. I cross posted this question in r/iphone here. The comments led me to this potential set up:

From my XDJ-RX's dual 1/4 TRS output, I'm going to have this male TS to male RCA cable going into the RCA input ports on the Behringer UCA202 (or UCA222), and then I will have that plug into the Apple Camera Connection Kit via USB, and then that goes into my phone. And THAT should get me a stereo signal.

Does that sound right to you? I'm like 95% sure that plugging two TS plugs into two TRS jacks (on the XDJ-RX) will only reduce the connection to unbalanced, but keep it stereo.

But it's good to know that if this setup doesn't work, the one that you suggested will. Finally this is all starting to make sense!

u/simon425 · 2 pointsr/CarAV

I've got a nearly identical install to his, but mine is not a fixed install so I can take the tablet with me.

The DAC is pretty crucial, and compared to the rest of a car AV set-up, is pretty cheap. The Behringer UCA-202 is another great one for low cost.

u/jallsopp · 2 pointsr/PCSound

Behringer UCA202 is a decent budget DAC and should work perfectly for what you want.

u/seanfisher5 · 2 pointsr/audio

JBL LSR305 here

I have heard nothing but good things about them. Although I don't know active monitors as well as passive speakers, these are constantly recommended and I trust JBL equipment after using them for countless theater shows.

u/MojoMonster · 2 pointsr/Guitar

Unfortunately, with guitar interfaces, you get what you pay for.

And anything under $350 is going to have limitations and make compromises.

Cheap: Focusrite Scarlett 2i2.

Cheaper: Lexicon Alpha Desktop Recording Studio.

ASIO4All if the drivers suck.

If you find you want to record, get Reaper.
Free to try, cheap to own.

u/hpham033 · 2 pointsr/DJs

Hey! Hopefully I can give you some insight. I am not sure if you can use the USB out if the RX2 into a computer to get an audio signal (someone let me know if I'm wrong). Something you could do is purchase an audio interface. I use this one that is relatively inexpensive for my streaming purposes and it works great! I use it with a Mac and if I remember correctly, it was plug and play. The system would recognize the interface from the streaming software and you get a good quality feed from the mixer. It worked out for me and isn't too overly complicated. Hope you get everything worked out!

u/ReticulateMySplines · 2 pointsr/audiophile

If you don't mind waiting around awhile, you can get them for $89 on Amazon. Just setup a camelcamelcamel alert. http://camelcamelcamel.com/JBL-LSR305-Studio-Monitor/product/B00DUKP37C

u/kcramez123 · 2 pointsr/headphones

I use a blue snowball and I got a cheap boom to get it closer to me and a pop filter now it sounds great and you can't hear my keyboard at all. My switches are cherry mx browns though so they aren't super loud.

u/rawrss · 2 pointsr/bapcsalescanada
u/NtX_DC · 2 pointsr/letsplay

I dont know honestly. I have an extendable arm for my mic that clamps down to my desk. I clamp my filter to the arm. I dont know how well it will work with that little tripod.

This is what my mic is attached to: NEEWER Adjustable Microphone Suspension Boom Scissor Arm Stand, Compact Mic Stand Made of Durable Steel for Radio Broadcasting Studio, Voice-Over Sound Studio, Stages, and TV Stations https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DY1F2CS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_HVBbAbV0ZYWXV

u/Ronin1791 · 2 pointsr/OfficialDLive

Unfortunately, the mic I use is not as good as yours so I can't recommend anything. That being said, the mic I have was better than my HyperX Cloud Alpha's mic by a mile so I'd imagine your snowball is even better. You can add a noise suppression filter for your mic in obs or slobs, whichever one you use, to remove background noise from your mic. That's what I did. The mic stand I use is a cheap one from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-Microphone-Suspension-Broadcasting-Voice-Over/dp/B00DY1F2CS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=neewer+microphone+stand&amp;qid=1562338696&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3 The mic stand is great because when you're done, you can move it to the side so it's not in the way. As for Restream.io, it merges your DLive chat and Twitch into one chatbox, that way you can interact with followers from both platforms at the same time without having to switch between the 2

u/dramahitler · 2 pointsr/buildapc

You'll need an external (or internal) soundcard or DAC with digital optical toslink S/PDIF ports as there is no way to directly convert to this via most digital and analog connectors. This one is decent for the price:

https://smile.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-BEHRINGER-U-CONTROL/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1500070400&amp;amp;sr=1-8&amp;amp;keywords=external+sound+card

u/LalaCalamari · 2 pointsr/podcasting

This is pretty much the basic starter set that will really serve you well.


ATR2100 or Samson q2u for mics. Very similar mics that can just be plugged into your PC via USB. They both also have an XLR connection which future proof them if you buy other equipment. Both do a great job of rejecting background noise and they sound excellent.



Basic Foam cover for the mic.



Neewer scissor Mic stand (or some stand to get the mic closer to your face). The stand that comes with these mics isn't what you need.

u/PCPrincipal2016 · 2 pointsr/razer

I use this for my blue snowball and its been great!
http://www.amazon.com/NEEWER-Microphone-Suspension-Scissor-Stand/dp/B00DY1F2CS

u/xkevinxpwndu · 2 pointsr/battlestations

NEEWER Adjustable Microphone Suspension Boom Scissor Arm Stand, Max Load 1 KG Compact Mic Stand Made of Durable Steel for Radio Broadcasting Studio, Voice-Over Sound Studio, Stages, and TV Stations https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DY1F2CS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rcFCCbQFNR3A8

u/WaffleBoi014 · 2 pointsr/AverageBattlestations

Yo bro I didn't see your comment earlier, it's this one:

Dragonpad USA Pop filter Studio Microphone Mic Wind Screen Pop Filter Swivel Mount 360 Flexible Gooseneck Holder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008AOH1O6?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

EDIT: so I read your reply wrong lol, it's this one

NEEWER Adjustable Microphone Suspension Boom Scissor Arm Stand, Compact Mic Stand Made of Durable Steel for Radio Broadcasting Studio, Voice-Over Sound Studio, Stages, and TV Stations https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DY1F2CS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_iFtEAb8BH2RPF

u/DiscipleTD · 2 pointsr/Twitch

Try this (Blue Yeti Mic) and this mic stand

&amp;#x200B;

These might look a little like his buddies. But the mic is very recommended from streamers and such, I personally us it and it is great. If he likes his headphones then a new mic would be another step to improve his audio.

&amp;#x200B;

I would say that I am not sure this is ideal for him, just trying to help as much as I can based on the original post!

&amp;#x200B;

EDIT: This is a cheaper mic made by the same company that is also a great option. Best of luck!

u/Cool-Beaner · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

I recommend the Behringer UCA202. It is a USB DAC with an Optical output. It also has a headphone jack and a ADC audio input.

u/Mahzu · 2 pointsr/battlestations

Very nice build! I appreciate the effort you've put into acquiring such an interesting speaker setup.

Have you used the HS5's before? I'm trying to come up with a simple near field speaker setup for mixing and sound design and was wondering how they compare to something like the JBL LSR305's.

u/MXIIA · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

I think he just wants speakers for his computer and doesn't realize you can use bookshelf speakers to do so with an amp.

My current setup, and one I recommend to him, is as follows

Computer --usb--&gt; Behringer UCA202 DAC --rca--&gt; Lepai LP 2020A+ Amp --speaker wire--&gt; Micca MB42X Bookshelf Speakers

That'll give him the dial he wants - on the amp - as well as amazing sound quality by bypassing the computer's built in DAC.

u/minty901 · 2 pointsr/postrock

OK, so my recommendation:

Zoom G1on ($50): http://www.amazon.com/Zoom-G1on-Guitar-Effects-Pedal/dp/B00IOSJ68C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1421777443&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=zoom+g1on

This will give you SO much great stuff. Loads of amp+speaker simulators for recording direct (vox, fender, marshall etc.), as well as loads of distortion, chorus, reverb, echo synth, wah, filter etc. effects that can be linked together in a chain. I have a lot of experience with guitar effects, and this unit is by far the best way to spend your money.

You still need a better way to input from that pedal into your computer. If you want to be able to use stereo effects (recommended), meaning the reverbs will be wider and more spacious, then you will need to go for a 2-channel USB interface. Something like this might work for you:

http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1421777678&amp;amp;sr=8-7&amp;amp;keywords=2+in+audio+interface

...however I have no experience with that so I can't vouch for it. You could try to find one a little pricier that might work better, I don't know. Look around for reviews etc., but if that works fine then you should have pretty much all you need to record a good quality sound in Audacity.

For drum sounds and others such as piano and strings, check out this software:

http://www.ikmultimedia.com/products/sampletank3free/

I use it myself. It should work as a plug-in with Audacity but I haven't tried that myself. Either way it's free and has some good sounds in it.

u/psychul · 2 pointsr/DJs

I've recently gotten myself a fancy new setup to record. Along with using a Novation Twitch and an Akai MPK25 to control Serato DJ, I have a lighting rig, which I use while mixing to make it more dynamic. I use a chauvet Obey 40, with two Chauvet Mini Kintas and two generic LED spotlights, to create an atmosphere. AAANNDDDD along side that, my most recent addition is two video cameras on tripods to catch the whole mix from different angles, which I then take into Sony Vegas 13 to edit it all down and make it look cool. (Oh, and I've got my mix recorded in Serato while I play, which I sync up with the video via a few clap samples that I play from my speakers). Here's the final product ( don't mind my kinda boring mixing, I just wanted to test out my whole setup to see if it worked) http://youtu.be/MkKARNRvfU8

And to help you out with the recording situation, Behringer sells rather good quality input/output sound cards for about $30 (Behringer UCA202 Audio Interface https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_5zRVub1GCHXDR), and you just plug in the output from the mixer into it, and use audacity (or your favorite recording program) to record it all.

u/applevinegar · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Just buy a 3,5mm to RCA cable and you'll be all set. You can also get a DAC for a slight improvement (http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/) but it's not necessary.

u/CrucialMove · 2 pointsr/battlestations

I have a Blue Yeti Blackout on a microphone arm (cheapy $20 version like this one (https://www.amazon.com/NEEWER-Microphone-Suspension-Scissor-Stand/dp/B00DY1F2CS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1491413327&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=blue+yeti+mic+stand) but without the black adapter at the end of it, and it has worked beautifully for the last three years, I can even invert my microphone to where it's hanging upside-down over my monitors and it's still steady as a rock. The arm can extend for about two and a half to three feet in every direction and is very easily adjustable.

I would definitely recommend checking to make sure whatever arm you buy is compatible with the microphone though, as some aren't. There's plenty of cheap versions on Amazon that can clip to your desk and easily support the weight of the microphone.

It's cleared up a lot of my desk space, made it easier to cable manage and use my microphone, and you don't get any of the infamous desk vibrations coming through your mic that the Blue Yeti is so well-known for.

TL:DR; A cheap Blue-yeti compatible mic stand can be found on Amazon, and it's a much better recording experience on a mic stand than on the desk stand that comes with the Blue Yeti.

u/yatogamii · 2 pointsr/hardwareswap

I won't ship it because It's $13 on amazon (exact model) and would be a pain to try and make it fit in the box.

u/ElementSC2 · 2 pointsr/battlestations
u/hagrid100 · 2 pointsr/audio

If you're going to get a cheap USB audio card, spring the extra few dollars and get one of these if you can. It'll be a lot higher quality.

u/torokunai · 2 pointsr/hackintosh

Sound output is set to my USB-attached stereo system.

http://imgur.com/a/byXHX

you can also get a $30 adapter

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-BEHRINGER-U-CONTROL/dp/B000KW2YEI

to connect the mac to speakers

u/BaiIeyRS · 2 pointsr/battlestations

If that one is out of your price range, I have this one and it is a lot cheaper. I know there is a saying you get what you pay for but I don't think the $90 premium for the Rode stand is worth it. The only thing I dislike about this mic stand is that there is one nut that comes loose that you will have to tighten every so often.

u/rpheneryiii · 2 pointsr/podcasting

I got these Neewer suspension arms to use for our podcast. You might need to get different ends to fit your microphone, but they're only around $13, so even if you had to spring for different attachments, it won't kill your budget.

https://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-Microphone-Suspension-Broadcasting-Voice-Over/dp/B00DY1F2CS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=neewer+mic+arm&amp;amp;qid=1555530680&amp;amp;s=gateway&amp;amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;amp;psc=1

u/drfine2 · 2 pointsr/cassetteculture

Get one of these, it is inexpensive. I use it with Audacity. My difference is that I record out of a home tape deck, not a box like yours. I think I can help you up to a point. The Behringer has a ton of reviews and very high ratings. I have the one in Red also, it came free with another device, a guitar effects pod.


https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-BEHRINGER-U-CONTROL/dp/B000KW2YEI/



I've read your manual, although they combined it with ES23 model. Cycle through the Sound settings to EQ Off when dubbing. Turn off or Cancel the sound virtualizer effect. On this Panasonic you have an advantage in that you can control the volume digitally. Start at 6. Level 7 might be better. You will be able to figure out which is best, but adjust it depending on the volume of the entire tape when you move on to another tape. Simon and Garfunkel would be a different setting output SLIGHTLY than Metallica, etc.


On your computer, reboot. Don't have the jack plugged into the computer. Do have the playback Panasonic prepared. You want to test one song. You want to monitor at the end of the chain, so you want to use your computer speakers, or connect via bluetooth to speakers or headphones, somehow.


My laptops now only have one port for sound In and Out. When I plug into the jack it opens a box with a question of how I want to use it. I'll go see the options on mine after I post this, but you don't want Microphone in, you want recording in or something else if you have a choice. If the Audio Device selection doesn't pop up, google it, there is help "How to get a popup when device is plugged into audio jack" - Or if you know your computer pretty well, open the sound panel options for the input/output to see what options are there.

You want LINE IN.

&gt;Here are the options in the sound panel on my Acer with one jack:

&gt;The current connected device is:

&gt;Which device did you plug in?

&gt;Line In [this is the one you want to use]

&gt;Mic In

&gt;Headphone

&gt;Speaker Out

&gt;Headset


This is where the Behringer USB device will come in handy. Audacity will find it, and you can simply monitor via the interface or on your computer.


Audacity, if you are new to it, it defaults at fresh install to 48khz sampling rate in my experience. You want to set that to 44.1 khz, the CD Audio standard. You can google that. I personally record to WAV file on a clean partition, but recording to high rate MP3 or something else might be what you want to do.


Your cables need to be good, and you need to notice if there is dust affecting the signal in the headphone port or the port on your computer. When you are monitoring at the business end DURING A SILENT PAUSE MODE, you can rotate the plug that is in the jack, you will hear if there is a crappy connection. You can clean the mini headphone jack ports just google it.


I hope you have got a way to monitor what is coming in to your computer after you do all this, it is really the only way to go. Like I said, considering the disadvantage of recording from a boombox headphone output, your advantage is that digital level control on the output, so you might turn out a fairly good recording.

u/mlsof21 · 2 pointsr/letsplay

If you want a cheaper option, I've had good luck with the Neewer Microphone Suspension Boom Scissor Arm Stand. It says it'll take up to three weeks to receive it, but I received the two I've ordered within a week.

u/MagnaFarce · 2 pointsr/Music

Generally you can get a better standalone turntable and an RCA to USB converter (I use this Behringer one) for the same price.

u/wuzzywezzer · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I used this since last year and still rocking it.

u/Nestledrink · 2 pointsr/nvidia
u/kschaffner · 2 pointsr/battlestations

Damn, I just looked it up $100 :( I have this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DY1F2CS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1 and while it works fine, the blue one looks so clean. Just wish it wasn't so expensive for a mic arm.

u/DGPantherX · 2 pointsr/battlestations

The utterly shitty, NEEWER Adjustable Microphone Suspension Boom Scissor Arm Stand, it's due for a replacement after the tightening... stick/tool on the bottom decided to snap off. Another thing to consider is how loose everything gets as time goes on. If you have an adjustable wrench or two or a hex nut key wrench, it's not nearly as bad to deal with, but eventually I plan to replace it.

u/Edman70 · 2 pointsr/audioengineering

Reaper is no different than any other DAW (Digital Audio Workstation). You need to have some way of getting the music into the computer. This is usually done with a USB interface, and this is about the cheapest decent interface I could find in a quick search:

http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UM2-Audio-Interface/dp/B00EK1OTZC/ref=sr_1_22?s=musical-instruments&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1405959840&amp;amp;sr=1-22

M-Audio and Focusrite make better stuff, but those are typically $100 to $200 US or more. This would be a really good start.

u/helez_ · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Behringer has a few cheap audio interfaces that will do it well for $30
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-U-Control-Low-Latency-Interface-Digital/dp/B000KW2YEI

u/notoknight · 2 pointsr/letsplay

That company you indicated has cheaper ones: http://amzn.com/B00DY1F2CS , if you would like the same design. Though, I wouldn't trust how long it lasts (either the springs bust or threads flatten).

u/DestroyerOfIphone · 2 pointsr/Twitch

Don't waste your money on the PSA Just buy these two items

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DY1F2CS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001H5KP0M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1

I have 0 feetback to my mic from the desk, and the stand works GREAT

u/nawitus · 2 pointsr/audiophile
u/TMobotron · 2 pointsr/synthesizers

I'm pretty sure you can get a crappy little USB device with a 1/8" mic input and use that. The sound isn't going to be great but it might hold you over in the meantime. Something like this or this (along with cable adapter(s)) i think would work.

Otherwise, I'd probably be spending all my time learning the blofeld and making patches for it. That synth is basically limitless with its possibilities. Try to make some patches that sound like the gear you want (e piano, etc.).

And get some VSTs! There are plenty of solid-sounding free ones - you can compose your ass off with just free software.

u/monado_man · 2 pointsr/audioengineering

Hey people of r/audioengineering, I'm new to all this, but I've ended up with a Sterling Audio ST51 Condenser Microphone. I was thinking I would do some streaming with it, and possibly getting into amateur voice acting as well.

The only problem is, I'm a little confused on how to connect it to my PC. I know a more expensive proper set up would have both a pre-amp and audio interface, but I'm not looking to spend a whole lot of money here. I was wondering what should I buy to connect the mic to my computer fairly cheaply? I've looked into some mixers like the behringer Q802, and I found this which looks okay, but I'm not very confident about it. Thanks for any and all help with this.

u/RuchW · 2 pointsr/audiophile

I would personally go for this. When I was looking to build my system, it came highly recommended on this subreddit. Plug it into the USB and bypass your soundcard altogether.

u/cannedleech · 2 pointsr/edmproduction

what is an interface? and do you have a suggestion for which one? noob here :)

Edit: would this one work?

http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

u/TheLegendOfZero · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

I use a USB DAC so that it appears as another audio source in the OS. This way I can use keyboard shortcuts to switch between headphones and speakers, rather than using a physical switch.

u/letsloosemoretime · 2 pointsr/podcasting

Hi I'm checking it out more in detail, how exactly does the output via USB work? Isn't the USB for power in, not for audio out? At least in the pictures here I don't see any audio out via USB:
https://www.amazon.de/Behringer-UM2-U-Phoria-Audio-Interface/dp/B00EK1OTZC/ref=sr_1_8?s=musical-instruments&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1550183315&amp;amp;sr=1-8&amp;amp;keywords=audio+interface

u/jankenpwn · 2 pointsr/audiophile

On what budget? Beringer UCA202 if you just want something cheap.

u/Some_Chords · 2 pointsr/headphones

No, that's just electrical interference from your computer being a computer. To fix it, you'd have to get a cheap DAC like the Behringer UCA202 or FiiO D3 , other than that, just deal with the static.

u/Focusetc · 2 pointsr/ableton

This behringer interface ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EK1OTZC/ref=pd_aw_sbs_5?pi=SS115&amp;amp;simLd=1 ) seems like it'd do the trick. 50 bucks and a 4.5/5 rating on amazon. You'll need an adapter for the headphones but those are like a dollar each.

u/manirelli · 2 pointsr/hardware

Here you go. Works like a charm and will eliminate any noise from interference in the case.


Behringer UCA202

u/therealvodius · 2 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

I can't speak personally for this DAW but some people like it well enough. Well timed Humble Bundle https://www.humblebundle.com/software/the-beat-goes-on-software?hmb_source=navbar&amp;amp;hmb_medium=product_tile&amp;amp;hmb_campaign=tile_index_5

Behringer has this audio interface that will get you what you need for guitar/bass/mic for less than a new video game https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UMC22-BEHRINGER-audio-interface/dp/B00FFIGZF6/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=audio+interface&amp;amp;qid=1565824932&amp;amp;s=gateway&amp;amp;sr=8-5

Have you tried asking people at your school what they're doing? Maybe someone wants to be a producer and is looking for someone to collab with?

u/rswalker · 2 pointsr/podcasting

To use that with a computer, you’ll need something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KW2YEI/

u/women_are_pretty · 2 pointsr/audiophile

It seems unlikely that a wire degrades over time. If rebooting works, it's more likely related to the computer.

You could buy a cheap DAC, you could try the headphone jack at about 60% volume and see how that works.

u/certifiedrotten · 2 pointsr/podcasting

You could make your life a lot easier with a USB interface like this one. BEHRINGER audio interface UMC22 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FFIGZF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ye-yCbZ96YS9K

u/12stringPlayer · 2 pointsr/OSMC

On-board audio interfaces suck on almost all computers.

I use the JustBoom DAC on the RPi 3B+ CD Player I built for my GF. It sounds great!

Another alternative is to use a USB audio interface like the Behringer UCA202. I had one laying around from when I used an old laptop as a media controller, and it works fine on my OSMC RPi.

u/Velimas · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Right. If you're not American, tell me and I'll re-evaluate. So as for speakers I recommend the Klipsch RB-51 II's at $420. Pair this with a Yamaha A-S300 amplifier for $330, and the Klipsch RW12D subwoofer for $350 dollars. Lastly, you're going to want a DAC, which are much cheaper than soundcards. Take the Behringer UCA202 at $30 Very hefty prices, but for a subtotal of $1110, you'll have an absolutely amazing setup. If you're a bit taken aback by the price, I can cook up something cheaper with not much of an issue, so tell me what you think!

u/0perator00 · 2 pointsr/DIY

You want a Behringer UCA202 Audio Interface. I purchased one specifically for use with these speakers. It's just a USB Digital Audio Converter (plug it in via USB, and it detects as a sound card, and has RCA outputs.) You could probably get away with using your onboard soundcard with a 1/8 jack to RCA as well, but, onboard soundcards are notoriously bad.

Also, get a good cable as well.

After getting a headset I moved onto a asus xonar essence stx so that I had something decent to power my headset and my Behringer UCA202 has been retired.

u/WildDoktor · 2 pointsr/VoiceActing

Awesome; then /r/JohannesVerne 's suggestions would be great...and you could upgrade to the umc22 (less self-noise, I'm told).

Also, you'll need better headphones. Your Logitech are probably fine for gaming and pleasure listening, but not mixing VO work. I'm learning that most gaming headphones really boost the bass, and you need headphones with a super flat response for mixing your VO work. Look up a video where they compare a raw VO track with a processed one and listen with your Logitech cans...you probably won't hear much of a difference. Then buy a pair of Sony MDR7506's and listen again. Wow...what a difference! You won't use the Sony's for "pleasure" listening, so keep your Logitech set for that.

A better mic could possibly give you *worse* sound quality, because it'll pick up *everything*. So you'll also need to tighten up your performance and your room if you want a better mic to help you sound better. "With more mic comes more responsibility", or something like that! :-)

All that said, I think it's awesome that you have a budget and a passion, and I say "go for it"!

u/1369ic · 2 pointsr/audio

If you want to get the most out of your new gear, you should buy a DAC. On-board sound cards are not high quality and you'll be better off getting your DAC chip out of the electrical shit storm going on inside your computer. You can spend anything from $30 or so up to the price of a new house on a DAC. The Behringer UCA202 is popular at the $30 range. If you want a nicer one, I'd recommend the Schiit Modi. And it goes up from there.

As for an amp, opinions vary. Most audiophiles will tell you an integrated amp is better than a receiver, and separates (a power amp and a preamp) are better, and dual mono all the way through is even better (separate amps for the left and right channels).

You could get a craigslist or eBay special and be perfectly fine. If you want a popular and solid integrated, the Emotiva Mini-X a100 is on sale for $170. Emotiva is the kind of the go-to for a lot of budget-minded audiophiles.

Lastly, while those speakers are going to sound very nice, "absolute best" is not only a relative term, it costs a lot more to achieve. Check out /r/zeos/ for a lot of good information.

u/Kizamus · 2 pointsr/Twitch

I'm not too sure on what else you could do TBH. If you're already using noise gate. The blue yeti is a pretty sensitive mic and not one that I would recommend. You could always try selling the yeti and going for a different mic. Maybe an XLR Shotgun. You can get one under 100 including the phantom PS. I may add some links to this reply

Edit:
Audio Interface:
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UMC22-BEHRINGER-U-PHORIA/dp/B00FFIGZF6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1517463363&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=Behringer+UMC22

Microphone:
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-centimeters-Uni-Directional-Microphone-Camcorder/dp/B018DYTFUU/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1517463442&amp;amp;sr=8-4&amp;amp;keywords=neewer+shotgun+XLR

Those are under 70 USD. I've used the Audio interface in the past and it's actually really good for its price.
You may need to look for a different stand, or maybe figure out a way to keep it pointed towards you while you play your games ect.

Hope this helps

u/_donkeyqong_ · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

spend 10 more dollars

spdif out, headphone out, and rca out.

u/PlasmaSheep · 2 pointsr/audiophile

How much money are you willing to spend?

If you're only looking for a headphone amp, a solid (and probably one of the cheapest) options is an O2. If you have the tools and know-how, it's easy (and cheaper) to DIY.

If you're also willing to buy a DAC, the UCA-202 is a popular recommendation, and it's pretty cheap. If you're willing to spend a bit more money (or in the future) you can upgrade to the ODAC, which does measure better. I do not think you'd need a DAC that measures better than the ODAC, at least not with your current setup.

u/imightbearobot · 2 pointsr/24hoursupport

Audio out of the PC is easy:

The Cheap Way using internal sound card

Or using an external DAC

For the 360 it will output audio and HDMI at the same time, there is just a plastic shield over the hdmi port when the component cable is plugged in. Options are:

you can break it off the plastic tab so both the component cable and hdmi cable can be plugged in at the same time or

Get an xbox vga cable

I didn't think the wii had hdmi out so I have no idea what you are doing there.

u/ThatVRGuy_ · 2 pointsr/piano

Here's everything I bought for mine:

  • Bench - $30

  • Stand - $60

  • [Garritan CFX VST] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KLFF91O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1) - $170

  • Audio Interface - $100 Comes with ableton which can be used to record the midi and also comes with a free addictive keys piano. Pretty nice for the price. There's about 7 ms of latency when I use this setup on my laptop which is completely unnoticeable.

  • [VPC 1] (https://www.musicstore.de/en_US/EUR/Kawai-VPC1-Masterkeyboard/art-SYN0004258-000) - About $1400 dollars after shipping and a duty tax of $76 will be charged if you live in the U.S. Still cheaper than I was able to find it elsewhere

    You'll also need a nice pair of speakers or headphones. I use the Audio-Technica ATH-AD700x's which are open back and they sound pretty good. I actually got a set of Sterling MX5 studio monitors in addition to my headphones to set on top of the piano and they sound amazing. If you ever think you will be playing for anyone or performing I recommend getting a pair of the MX5's. It's about $200 and then $10 for a cable. They will hook right up to the audio interface.
u/ZeroKarizma · 2 pointsr/podcasts

I also vouch for the Behringer XENYX 1202. It's relatively inexpensive and reasonably powerful. You'll also need one of these for USB interface:

Behringer UCA202 Audio Interface

u/mrklever · 2 pointsr/battlestations

That's the amp! The speakers are Pioneer SP-BS41-LR and the stands are Sanus NF36B. There's also a Behringer DAC that I've hidden on the left side of the cable rack.

u/andonato · 2 pointsr/Guitar

How about a recording interface? I'm asking for this.

u/o0turdburglar0o · 2 pointsr/Ubuntu

Love my 2i2.

Apparently there's now a rev2 available, not sure what's different from the rev1 I have.

There's also a single-preamp version for under $100. Guitar/line-in like what OP is using don't need a preamp so this might do the job well for him. If it was available at the time I purchased I probably would have gone this route.

u/mailor · 2 pointsr/audiophile

your boses will probably not benefit from the amplifier but that won't hurt either.

also have a look at things like this one, they're pretty popular around here.

u/evilmnky204 · 2 pointsr/audiophile

For $400, you could either go with bookshelf speakers + an amplifier though someone else would have to fill in the suggestions on that route for me. You can also go with powered monitors (meaning that they're already amped) such as the JBL LSR305s. Keep in mind that you'd need to make sure wherever you purchase these from that they'll come in a pair as studio monitors are sometimes not sold in pairs. As for a cheap interface to connect it, the Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 is a solid purchase. This example specifically is about $260 for the speakers, and $150 for the interface so just at about $410. Keep in mind there are many cheaper interfaces you can use or even just a DAC such as this one which would be cheaper by a decent amount.

Either way, both options would be far, far better than the Audio Engine A5+, imo.

u/munkomanko · 2 pointsr/synthesizers

Shit, so I just gotta get this here thingamabob? I'm down, absolutely.

ELI5: If I get this doodlygadget, (plus a audio cable, right?) then I will have the capability to: hear the sounds that I can hear right now on the monologue, directly on Logic Pro X. And to do that, I would need to: plug in the MIDI cable that I already have, AND plug in the audio cable, THROUGH the doodlygizmo, and then plug THAT into the computer. Am I correct? So do I actually need two more cords, to send audio through the interface and then into the computer?

Man I am in over my head

But I have so many ideas for cool music I gotta do this

u/paracog · 2 pointsr/reasoners

Hi; if you have powered speakers, a simple device like this one, which I've used for years with no problem, should suffice:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KW2YEI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1

u/jensyfrenzy · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

I used an analog USB sound card (specifically, this one).

u/pouchkiller · 2 pointsr/ultrawidemasterrace

M-Audio Firewire 410 . It's the audio interface that runs the Rokit 8s

It's pretty old and no longer supported by its maker. I've replaced it with an Scarlett 2i2 USB audio interface.

u/Skitch_n_Sketch · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Let's start by breaking down some terms and what gear you need.

Assuming you're using a computer as a source, we start with a DAC. Your computer will have one built in, but external ones may be more transparent or perhaps just have more features you need. The DAC takes the 1's and 0's from you computer and turn it into a weak analog signal.

All speakers require an amplifier (amp) which amplifies the signal from your DAC. These are what will be powering your speakers. Active / Studio speakers generally have the amplifier built into the speaker, while passive speakers require an external amplifier.

There's a couple of difference ways to add headphones into the mix, but a Audio Interface is likely the easiest way to switch between the two. If your headphones require an amp as well, something like a Schitt Fulla 2 acts as a DAC, Headphone amp, and has line out to control the volume of your speakers.

u/Proper_Refrigerator · 2 pointsr/pocketoperators

Well I record my PO-20 using this interface and this wire. It's all worked perfectly well for me.

u/ThreeKon · 2 pointsr/battlestations

I love them, I use to use them for my DJ setup downstairs and recording. I use this http://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-2i2-USB-Recording-Interface/dp/B005OZE9SA They sound great though. If you were going to go with studio monitors, these are a great cheap option. I still prefer yamaha monitors though, thats why I have those downstairs for my DJ equipment =)

u/140dB · 2 pointsr/audioengineering

As everyone else is saying there are a ton of choices. If you are sure all you want is two channels for recording I would go with a 2 Channel USB interface such as the Focusrite Scarlet which is only $150. For a live multitrack like you describe that's what I would choose.

However, whenever someone asks me about what interface they should get I always say, "Plan for the future." Sure you only want 2 channels now, but in the future are you going to want more? Are you going to need MIDI or Digital Ins? A 2nd monitoring path for two people recording? Like kim_otcj said, If you buy for the future you'll save money in the long run.

u/techwiz2017 · 2 pointsr/amazonecho

So one question, if you plug your echo directly into the input (skipping the record player) does the sound work properly ?

I was trying to do a similar split for my grandma, she had a set of computer speakers as her home theater and it only had 1 3.5mm input. I bought the same splitter as you did thinking I could run her TV output and echo into that splitter and the speaker would play whatever is being piped through.

But I ran into a similar issue as you where the TV volume was incredibly muted. I think the issue had something to do with the echo constantly outputting a very small sound output or low frequently or something , that was overriding the TV signal. I determined this since I had previously run a DVD player into the second input, and as long as it was off, there was no issue of the splitter fighting between 2 sources.

So i think because the echo is outputting some time of “phantom” power, an analog splitter can’t handle that.

I haven’t come up with a solution to the same issue. But I think it would either be:

1: get an A/B switch that someone else here mentioned
2. Get a Bluetooth adapter that powers off when not in use
3. Get a 2 channel (or more ) audio mixer. Did a search on amazon and this came up , and would probably work:

Rolls MX42 Stereo Mini Mixer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00102ZN40/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zaoJAbXD4NHQV

Or look for a mixer with 3.5mm audio inputs, Just make sure they are stereo. I’m also not sure if your turntable is stereo, you might need a mono to stereo adapter to get it playing on all speakers.

I hope that helps!

u/Clayman0809 · 2 pointsr/Bass

This guy here is awesome!

http://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-2i2-USB-Recording-Interface/dp/B005OZE9SA

Sure, you can find cheaper M-Audio and knockoff ones, but the preamps in focusrite interfaces are worth every single penny! I used an M-audio Mobile pre for three years and it got the job done, but I didn't know what I was missing till I upgraded to Focusrite, I wish I did it right from the get go.

The advantage of this type of interface is not only can you record Bass and Guitar, you can also record at Mic level, so you can plug in a microphone with an XLR to record, even a condenser that requires phantom power. As well as line level, which would be like keyboards or an already DI'ed signal.

If you plan on recording your own stuff, even if it is just for demos/ personal use, an interface like this will make a world of difference and will help you realize your potential as a musician.

u/toastyj247 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

This is the best option I've seen although, I'd go for a cheaper MOBO and i5 4460. Audio production is definitely not CPU intensive nor do you need fast memory (or a lot) but I can't speak on photoshop. As for Audio Production a DAC and Soundcard is not needed. Balanced headphones (ATH-M50x) definitely are but you also need a Audio Interface, the Scarlet 2i2 is very popular (You can probably get it cheaper else where)

u/djbeefburger · 2 pointsr/audio

Not quite. That will only do one pair of L&amp;R - you need two pairs.

It seems like it's a little tough to find a minimal mixer with XLR outputs, but you can also use something with RCA or 1/4" outputs to connect the mixer to the KRKs instead... e.g. https://www.amazon.com/Rolls-MX42-Stereo-Mini-Mixer/dp/B00102ZN40

u/tcookc · 2 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

sorry hommie, I'm afraid you'll need an interface rather than a mixer.

u/kiwiandapple · 2 pointsr/buildapcforme

Well, I decided to provide you with a cheaper suggestion compared to /u/Du6e great suggestion.
I did include a external

I changed a few parts to reduce noise.

  • CPU: Went with a locked CPU. This means less heat, which reduces in less fan speed required to cool the CPU.
  • CPU cooler: The NH-D15 is absolutely amazing for the price, but this little cooler is also in the category of amazing. Very easy to install, more than silent enough and keeps the CPU cool enough.
  • Motherboard: Because I went with a locked CPU, we don't have to pay the small premium for a Z97 board. This motherboard got everything you will want and will work absolutely fine.
  • Storage: Changed the SSD to a slightly faster one. I personally have the exact same one and I love it. Here is a benchmark of the performance.
  • Video card: The difference is mainly the cooler. Here is a comparision between the EVGA, MSI, Asus, Gigabyte &amp; Stock GTX980Ti. Under load (so during games) the Gigabyte card is the loudest one of the cards tested. MSI beats the EVGA/Asus versions by a small judge.

    I will also provide you with a couple of great guides to help you build the PC.


    ---

    As for the Focusrite audio recorder.
    Here is a great video explaining and showing you why you want this.
    Here is a review of the one that I am suggesting. A slight amount cheaper compared to the one used in the video above.

    PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

    Type|Item|Price
    :----|:----|:----
    CPU | Intel Xeon E3-1231 V3 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor | £217.76 @ Dabs
    CPU Cooler | CRYORIG M9i 48.4 CFM CPU Cooler | £16.49 @ Ebuyer
    Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-H97-D3H ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | £85.98 @ Ebuyer
    Memory | Kingston HyperX Fury White 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory | £60.99 @ Amazon UK
    Storage | Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | £117.00 @ Amazon UK
    Storage | Western Digital Blue 2TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive | £53.94 @ Aria PC
    Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Superclocked ACX 2.0+ Video Card | £528.53 @ More Computers
    Case | Fractal Design Define S ATX Mid Tower Case | £58.96 @ Aria PC
    Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | £74.99 @ Amazon UK
    Monitor | Dell U2515H 60Hz 25.0" Monitor | £265.86 @ Aria PC
    Monitor | Dell U2515H 60Hz 25.0" Monitor | £265.86 @ Aria PC
    Sound recording| Focusrite Scarlett 2i2| £99.00 @ Amazon UK
    | Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
    | Total | £1845.36
    | Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-01-22 09:11 GMT+0000 |

    ---

    Guides


    ---

    Now before you have a look at all these guides. The best guide in most cases will always be your MANUAL. Some manuals are garbage, but most of them are more than good enough to be able to help figure out most problems.

  • How to build an Intel 115x socket PC? This is my personal favorite because it goes in depth, but still keeps the video relatively short. It also got great camera work so you are able to follow all the steps very well. I decided to skip the start of the video. The reason being that the video is posted on 17th of May 2013, he gives the rationale of his selected parts at the start. This is a very long time ago, so the parts are very old, so no need to hear this out. But building a PC is still pretty much the same. No drastic changes.
    There are a lot of different build guides on the internet, but I really like this one. It's easy to follow.

  • How to install a 115x CPU? Very simple and easy to follow guide again.
  • How to install thermal compound? Now, to be clear! Every single heatsink will come with its own thermal compound. Even the intel/AMD stock heatsinks. So there is no need to buy this.
    It's only recommended to buy when you either have very bad temperatures or when you want to overclock to the extreme. The temperature difference between the best and the "worst" thermal compound is a couple degrees Celsius.
    Be careful though! More is not better! It needs to have enough, but too much will dramatically increase the temperatures of the CPU. Thermal compound helps with the contact of the cooler + the CPU. The CPU + heatsink both have microscopically small gaps, which the thermal compound fills up to let the heat get too the heatsink.
  • How to install RAM? It's very simple these days. For DDR4 it's pretty much the same.
  • How to install Windows 8(.1) or 10 from an USB drive? You have to download "media creation tool" which is located at the bottom of the page (blue button). Run that program with a 4GB+ USB flash drive plugged into a PC. Then follow the simple steps and the program will make the USB drive bootable. After that all you have to do is build the PC and boot from that USB drive to install Windows.
  • How to set up your SSD &amp; HDD? This video is another older video, but it works pretty much the same in Win 8/10. He does talk about a few things that aren't very important, but it's good to know.
  • How to use Ninite? This video explains it very well, as well as their recommendations. For security I advise to only get Avira (if you don't mind to get an add every day; if you do mind - just use Microsoft Defender) &amp; Malwarebytes. If you want to pay for an anti-virus; Webroot! Light weight; very high detection rate.


    Hope you like it and If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask.

u/Catechin · 2 pointsr/Bass

Does your amp have a DI out? A Scarlet 2i2 + Reaper would run you $210 and allow you to do everything you need. I honestly highly recommend Reaper over most other software. Once you've used a proper DAW you won't want to go back.

If you don't have a DI out on your amp it becomes much trickier. While you're fine mic'ing a guitar cab with an SM57 you may find it lacks low end with bass and something like a Beta 52A tends to be a lot more expensive. If you don't have a DI on your amp, your best bet would probably be to buy one, and a decent DI is going to eat your entire budget at least.

u/MrEditor · 2 pointsr/GWABackstage

Why are there still fake-real knobs and such? Because.....

There was a long time where analog was it. It's all there was. 4, 8, 12, 16 track analog recorders. Behemoths of recording consoles. If GWA existed somehow in that day, we would all own little 2-track recorders, a small mic pre-amp unit, and a microphone. And you'd maybe have an analog EQ and compressor, big physical units that looked like this.

So when everything went digital, a decision was made. To preserve brand identity and user familiarity, they copied the physical unit into a digital VST application. Compare This real world Shadow Hills Compressor unit with The Shadow Hills Compressor Plug-in.

There isn't any reason beyond that. There is reasons to choose analog or digital, but not to have a UI reminiscent of analog units.


As far as heaphones go, I'll take you through what I own, and what I use most.

Sennheiser HD 650

Sennheiser HD6 MIX

These were gifts through a brief endorsement deal I had, and I run these through this headphone amplifier

For higer-end earbuds, I use Sennheiser IE 60's and Sennheiser IE 80's. These I primarily use for simple editing on the go, giving to performers to use on stage or using myself on stage, or for women tracking vocals or instruments who don't want to mess up their hair with big over-the-head headphones.

But, my most used setup, what has become my dream setup, and the one that I will always reach for first, is far from the priciest.

Sennheiser HD 280 Pro, run out of the computer through a Focusrite Scarlett 2i2.

This is my favorite setup. The 280 Pro's are $100, the Scarlett is around $150. The headphones are crystal clear, have tight response all through the spectrum, are rugged enough to get chucked the fuck around, are comfy, and come with a great quality screw-on adapter so they able to be used into a 1/4" connection or a standard 1/8" headphone jack. Their impedance means they don't need an amp and can be used as normal headphones. They sound JUST as good as pairs ten times their price, and they have a certain special something to their super-low end and high-mids that I haven't found. Go get these today. Trust me.

The Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 isn't used as an amplifier in this case, since the 280's don't need it. It serves as a USB feed out, with a nice little volume knob. USB out will always trump 1/8" headphone jack out audio. Plus, the 2 inputs are nice to have. I own two of these units, and one always travels with my laptop for an easy, portable solution for HQ audio monitoring, easy L-R in recording from a sound board, or easy audio out from my laptop.

Together, these things have a certain magic, and I don't have to break my bank or handle them like china dolls. They're both rugged and sound AMAZING.

EDIT: I forgot my in-ear molded earphones. I own a pair of Alclair Reference IEM's. They are a great price, sound incredible for stage or studio, and I got mine with wood backs and DAMN are they sexy.

u/bluehat9 · 2 pointsr/edmproduction

Guitar --&gt; 1/4" cable --&gt; input on audio interface (scarlett 2i2) --&gt; audio track in daw

u/IAmTriumph · 2 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

Your instinct would be correct (at least in my opinion). Make sure you buy a pop filter and a mic stand as well. An entry-level interface would be something like a Presonus AudioBox USB or the Focusrite Scarlett 2i2. I highly recommend the former (I have two musician friends who both have it and love it), also this bundle comes with the cables you need, some decent tracking headphones, and Presonus' StudioOne Artist DAW. So that's essentially everything you need right out of the box. I hope that helps.

u/Baronzemo2 · 2 pointsr/podcasts

Have you looked at the Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 2 In/2 Out USB Recording Audio Interface My manager who does music as a hobby loves this thing.

u/TrianglesRhombuses · 2 pointsr/Guitar

Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 is the best budget interface. You can find them under $100 used.

http://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-2i2-USB-Recording-Interface/dp/B005OZE9SA

u/TombCam · 2 pointsr/videography

If you're just needing Natural Sound, then the Rode VideoMic Go will do you fine. It also picks up decently well in interviews.

However, even if you have that Shotgun for interviews, to make them just that much better, use a Giant Squid Lav Mic connected to a Zoom H1. It's a phenomenal entry level Lav setup that is decently affordable.

u/spewtoon · 2 pointsr/Guitar

plug something like this into this and then run it via USB to your computer. any mic and interface will do, but those 2 happen to be pretty basic and easy to handle. as for software, i recommend Reaper as you can use it for free for awhile and pay once you've decided it's worth it (which it will be, so make sure at some point you throw 'em the cost).

point mic at amp speaker, select track on Reaper and press record. rock out like the glorious rock god you are, and then press stop. File menu&gt;render (i think, can't remember right now)&gt;pick format and save.

very, very rough walkthrough!

u/crystalcastles · 2 pointsr/Bass

This isn't firewire, this is USB.

4.5 Stars on 129 reviews

Was virtually plug-n-play on my Windows 8 Computer, super easy to use.

I dealt with shitty drivers/support with my Mboxes and got this and have never looked back.

u/oddsnsodds · 2 pointsr/audiophile

This. You want a switch or a mixer. With a straight circuit cable like the ones you linked, the outputs will try to drive each other and that can damage them.

Here's a mixer.

u/IShotTheSky · 2 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

I'd go with this:

1.) Yamaha HS80Ms ~$500

2.) Shure SM57 ~$100

3.) Gauge ECM87 ~$150

4.) Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 ~$150

5.) ART Tube MP ~$40

Then I'd probably use the remainder to get odds and ends like stands and cables, etc. But with that, you should be able to make some killer stuff. Industry standard dynamic mic, high-value U87 clone condenser, really nice entry level interface, decent tube pre, and the crowning jewel being those HS80s. You'll be able to record your guitars and bass and mix all your tracks easily with this set up.

u/evilpirateguy · 2 pointsr/Guitar

If just want to play into you computer, the quarter to eighth inch jack will certainly work. However, if you want improved audio quality you can purchase, as mentioned by the guy above me, and audio converter that plugs in via USB to you computer. The two leading units are probably the scarlet 2i2 or the audiobox usb. They both pretty much do the same thing.

u/sushiricebox · 2 pointsr/discordapp

What you might want to be looking for is a stereo mini mixer i think. https://www.amazon.com/Rolls-MX42-Stereo-Mini-Mixer/dp/B00102ZN40

u/certnneed · 2 pointsr/audio

You're going to need an audio mixer of some type.

(note: for the Bluetooth receiver, you'll need a Y cable to feed the mono signal to both channels.)

u/Ruskie_and_Kraut · 2 pointsr/headphones
u/Wingman4l7 · 2 pointsr/EDC

Using the Beats Solo HD as an example, they cost at least $140, and have an estimated parts cost of ~$20. They also use metal weights (mounted to plastic, so they don't add any durability to the hinges) to make up a third of the headphone's weight -- a cheap and deceptive way to convey "quality". I see no reason to believe that their manufacturing / business practice with their earbuds is any different.

For $140, you could get a pair of Audio Technica ATH-M50 or for a little more, a pair of Beyerdynamic DT-770 with much more respectable specs. FFS, they have a rapper's name as their brand. What do you think you're paying for?

$130-$200 for a pair of Powerbeats2 -- for that price you could get JaybirdX2 bluetooth earbuds and maybe even have money left over. Longer playback, smaller size, better tips, probably better sound quality, etc. Based on the design/size/price, the Powerbeats look to be more comparable to well-rated $50 pairs like the Photive PH-BTE70.

u/s7robe · 2 pointsr/deadmau5

Unsurprisingly, everyone is recommending m50xs... you should checkout the headphones subreddit, the people over there know their shit. The Sony's and msr7s you were asking about are on different sides of the sound signature spectrum. The msr7s are pretty punchy and bright, while the Mdr-1s are more warm and laid back sounding. I would say go for something like the beyerdynamic Dt770 they really are awesome for electronic music, and they're pretty affordable as well. Also if you want to spend a little more the focal spirit pro is a great choice.

Link to the dt770: https://www.amazon.com/Beyerdynamic-770-PRO-250-ohms/dp/B008POFOHM?th=1&amp;amp;amp;psc=1

Link to the spirit pro: https://www.amazon.com/Focal-Spirit-Professional-Studio-Headphones/dp/B00EXO8Y3Y

u/Kerry56 · 2 pointsr/headphones

The 250 ohm version is not recommended, no. Not with a phone as input.

DT 770 also comes in a 32 ohm version meant for portable devices.

Or you could get the ATH-M50x.

u/Gatowag · 2 pointsr/DiamondClub

If he's looking to get serious with headphones, I will always recommend the Beyerdynamic DT 770s (cans of choice for Robert Krekel and Brandt Hughes!)

Admittedly, they're on the pricey side, but without a doubt the most comfortable headphones I've ever worn. They're built to last and have good sound reproduction. I'm no audiophile so I won't be able to tell you about the fidelity of frequencies, but it sure as hell gets the job done.

Also I'm convinced there's some headphone Illuminati and buying these makes you a member, I feel like these pop up all over the place after I bought them.

u/sik-sik-siks · 2 pointsr/audio

That loopmixer is all mono so you will lose all the stereo from all your sources if you got that. It's the right idea though. You want something that is a stereo mixer, or even cheaper would be just a simple switch like this. Super cheap, passive so it requires no power, and does the job. Unless you need to actually mix your inputs, this will do just fine.

If you want to be able to mix sound from, say the PS4 and an iPod, then you will need an active stereo mixer maybe like this. Also passive, cheap, and keeps things stereo. There are lots and lots of more expensive options in this area too, just watch out that they are stereo on the input side. Many professional mixers will be called "stereo" because they output stereo, but really they offer pan control of a bunch of mono inputs.

u/elerah · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Have you thought of JBL's LS-305s ($129 each on amazon and have seen them on massdrop for $119 I believe).

I've produced tracks at a friends house with the KRK Rokit 5s G3 a few times and they felt mids heavy and the highs soft. I personally wouldn't recommend those. I have a pair of HS-8s and LS-308s at my home studio. I had the HS-8s for some time and love them a lot, but I recently got the JBLs and I personally feel that they are better. The image control waveguide is insane. I thought that the hype around them was going to disappoint me but boy was I wrong. You can't go wrong with either HS-5s or the LS-305, but I would recommend the LS-305s.

I'm also a DJ, if you have any mixes, I'd love to hear them. PM me or just comment with a link.

u/hack_tc · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

I would snag 2 - JBL LSR305 Monitors and this RCA-TS cable. If that is too expensive, buy one JBL LSR305 and this cable. Then save up and buy the other one :) Assuming you just want to connect this to your turntable (which is a nice turntable, btw).

u/bagheera74 · 2 pointsr/vinyl
u/lushpuppie · 2 pointsr/synthesizers

There are also passive mixers.

https://www.amazon.com/Rolls-MX42-Stereo-Mini-Mixer/dp/B00102ZN40


EDIT: Technically, you can use one of these, as well, but I'm not sure what that would mean for the output... If it would still be stereo from each unit, or not. I think it would also mess with the volumes.

https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Speaker-and-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00009WQSR/ref=pd_sim_23_8?_encoding=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1&amp;amp;refRID=VSXKK16GPHXJMY3HG5MK

Or combine 5 into one:

https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-RockStar-5-Jack-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B00904WS2K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1503136561&amp;amp;sr=8-2&amp;amp;keywords=belkin+rockstar

u/Blze001 · 2 pointsr/headphones

You need a stereo mixer, something like this
http://www.amazon.com/Rolls-MX42-Stereo-Mini-Mixer/dp/B00102ZN40/ref=sr_1_2?s=musical-instruments&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1450707438&amp;amp;sr=1-2&amp;amp;keywords=stereo+mixer

They also make one with 1/4" inputs and outputs, but the best solution would be to plug your source and guitar amp into this box, then the output goes to your Marantz for the final amping before going to your headphones, otherwise you have to play with volume knobs in three different places to get it to sound right.

u/reddsbywillie · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Have you considered a mini mixer? I haven't personally used one, but it seems like a perfect solution for your needs.
Here's an example, but I'm sure there are a range of options out there: https://www.amazon.com/Rolls-MX42-Stereo-Mini-Mixer/dp/B00102ZN40/ref=pd_sbs_267_3?_encoding=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1&amp;amp;refRID=63FCJJNHJFDNA7FTFNKQ

Each source (computer) gets a 3.5mm to RCA cable. Then you run the mini mix out to your existing amp in any of the aux inputs. Allows you to balance each source to the volume you want, run all 3 at the same time, and send the sound as a single source to your receiver/amp. Gives you room to add another if you need it, gives you volume on each, it's physically small. The only box it doesn't check is that it's still a moderate amount of wires, but if you set it up cleanly, that shouldn't be a huge factor with some ties.

u/squirrelpotpie · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

Here's one that I've been using for the last three years for a similar purpose, but it doesn't come with a power adapter so you need to also buy a universal power adapter to go with it.

It also has a few slight downsides that might bug you. First, you get independent volume knobs for each channel, so you have two volumes to change to adjust one stereo source, not one. Second, it uses 1/4" jacks, so you need adapters to plug in your electronics. Third, at least on mine the internal jacks didn't meet up perfectly with the 1/4" plugs when they were plugged all the way in. The weight of the wire would pull the tip of the plug away from the contact in the socket. I fixed that by putting the plug through a washer or piece of cardboard that stopped the plug from going in all the way. Has worked great ever since.

If I had a link to another similar mixer at similar price on hand I would recommend that instead. On the plus side, the Nady is built to be user-serviceable. There are probably better options that might be cheaper once you factor in the cost of power adapter. I spent a bunch of time shopping last time I needed one and found it surprisingly hard to get a simple, cheap, stereo, line-level mixer. Everything's either DJ equipment, made for microphones and not line level, or a huge crazy $400 mixer board with tons of channels like you would use for recording a band.

I'll look around a little bit longer, but here's what you're looking for in a mixer case I come up dry:

  1. Has actual gain knobs, not just volume or level knobs. Note the bad Amazon reviews on this one, that it cuts the output volume too much. That's because the volume knobs only from zero to slightly-less-than-100%. Gain knobs go above 100%.
  2. Is not a DJ-style "crossfade" mixer like this one. Note the slider on the panel... That means it's set up to crossfade between two different things, so when it's in the middle both things will be at half volume.
  3. Is built for line level (keyboards, CD players etc.), not microphones or guitars. If it's 1/4" jacks or RCA jacks it's probably fine. If it has XLR jacks you probably won't be able to use those inputs. (But you can just turn them to zero volume and ignore them.)
  4. (EDIT) Doesn't collapse channels to mono, like this asshole device does. (I thought it was a good alternative to the NADY, until I read the fine print.)
u/EightOhms · 2 pointsr/audio

By definition what you need is a mixer. You'll just have to find a small one.

&amp;#x200B;

Perhaps this Rolls RCA mixer is small enough.

u/Babbage78 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

The difference between a pair of powered/active speakers compared to passive ones is that the powered speakers have a built in amplifier while passive speakers require an amplifier to work.

In your case, I would recommend the JBL LSR305's. They are powered speakers and are very highly regarded. Plus since they are studio monitors, you can choose which cable to use and how long you want it to be. Here is the amazon link for them:

http://www.amazon.com/JBL-Professional-LSR305-Studio-Monitor/dp/B00DUKP37C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1457712736&amp;amp;sr=8-2&amp;amp;keywords=jbl+305

I personally own the M-Audio AV40's (which i love) but have read several reviews that place the JBL LSR305's above them.

u/itsthevoiceman · 2 pointsr/AskMen

We've got kind of an array of equipment, as our studio isn't funded too well. Fortunately, we got an upgrade a few years ago, and we've got some nice stuff to work with:

u/zfa · 2 pointsr/audio

I'd move away from the type of thing you've looked at already and go for either:

  • Powered monitors (these are like 'old' computer speakers inasmuch as you just plug them in to your PC and the mains and they work, as the amplifier is built in). I suggest JBL LSR305 (note that you need to buy two as they're priced individually).
  • A small amp such as either an SMSL SA-50 or SMSL A2 and some bookshelf speakers like the Wharfedale 9/10 (plenty of choice here depending on what you want to pay, but if you keep to one of these you will have enough money left over to also buy a subwoofer for extra bass).

    If you want to add bluetooth just buy a little bluetooth receiver to go with the above.
u/scnickel · 2 pointsr/Guitar

You can probably get a used Presonus Audiobox USB within your budget:

http://www.amazon.com/PreSonus-AudioBox-USB-Audio-Interface/dp/B00154KSA2

I have one and it's been solid. The most budget friendly option would be that or something similar and headphones. The computer will not handle the amplification. If you try to output through your pc sound card, there will be a slight delay. If you plug pc multimedia speakers into the interface, it's not going to sound good. You'll either need studio monitors or headphones.

u/Aging_Shower · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

if you can ship them cheaply to Canada... JBL LSR 305. They're on sale on amazon for $200 for the pair.

u/Styrant · 2 pointsr/edmproduction

https://www.amazon.com/PreSonus-AudioBox-USB-Audio-Interface/dp/B00154KSA2 - Cheapest external soundcard (US Link).
edited parts list
http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/yYm9WX

  • added a gpu (750 ti)
  • 1x 256gb ssd (instead of 2x 128gb ssds; 1 256gb ssd was cheaper)

  • Changed processor to non-k for price and motherboard
  • removed cpu fan, processor comes with stock fan
  • got cheaper memory 16gb (your motherboard couldn't support 3200 memory)

    total is about the same as before.
u/DavidLean · 2 pointsr/makinghiphop

You can do this in FL, but if you're starting out, I think FL is about the most confusing DAW to record audio tracks into. Audacity is free and will work fine. If you want something more polished, Reaper is easy to use, free to try for 2 months, and $60 for a full license—worth trying out.

&amp;nbsp;

But, like /u/BartonPatrick says, you're going to want an audio interface between your mic and your computer. If you buy a new audio interface, a lot of them will come with a basic DAW—so look into that first.

u/fistful_of_dollars · 2 pointsr/vinyl

I have a pair of JBL LSR305s in my living room -- the more I listen to them, the more I love them.

The problem with most studio monitors is that they're designed for mixing, so they reveal all the inaccuracies of a bad mix in a very obvious way. But when an album is beautifully mixed, they shine. Hi-Fi speakers typically smooth out and cover up those inaccuracies. Most studio monitors also have a very flat, cold, accurate sound, which makes it difficult to listen to them for long periods of time, you start to feel fatigue.

The LSR305s have a slightly warmer sound than your typical studio monitors, so you can listen to them for hours on end, and they sound outstanding -- to my ears they outperformed monitors that cost more than double.

If anyone's looking for a sub-$500 setup, you should check them out (they're $140 each: http://amzn.to/1lRrvsg); you can also add a JBL subwoofer for the low-end.

u/AliceWolff · 2 pointsr/buildapcforme

Would this device work for amplifying three headphones? I remember it worked pretty well in Music Production class in high school with this interface. I need it to be able to connect to that (I have an RCA to 1/4" jack adapter) for near-zero latency listening to playback from live instruments.

u/psychoticdream · 2 pointsr/audiophile
u/emptythecache · 2 pointsr/somethingimade

Pretty tedious way to save $4

u/MasterVamp · 2 pointsr/pcgaming

First, sorry for bad english.

I think you misunderstood the noise canceling feature, your headsets cancel noise from getting into your ears, not your microphone.

I live in a very busy avenue in my country, and i have a similar problem. Mic was picking up cars and stuff from the street. Your best chance to avoid this noise is getting the mic closer to your mouth, reduce the volume (or sensitivity from your mic) and speak louder. thats why i prefer headsets instead of regular desktop (or tripode) mics.

if reducing the volume and getting the mic closer doesnt work, you probably need a better mic.

After searching for a long time i find the best price-value "noise cancelling" mic is the audio Technica BPHS1. But it isnt usb (it is xlr) and you need a audio USB interface to use it in your pc. This headset is designed to use in sport breadcast, in very loud enviroments.

Link to the headset:
http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-Broadcast-Stereo-Headset-Dynamic/dp/B003D87JI2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1412137022&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=bphs1

Description:
Created especially for on-air news and sports broadcasting, announcing &amp; interviews, this rugged stereo headset offers natural, highly intelligible and focused vocal reproduction, closed-back circumaural (around-the-ear) ear cups to seal out background noise, and a high-output dynamic microphone mounted on a flexible gooseneck boom. The headset's microphone has a cardioid polar pattern tailored for pickup of speech with maximum voice intelligibility over a wide range of frequencies. It is more sensitive to sound originating directly in front of the element, making it useful in reducing pickup of unwanted sounds. The flexible gooseneck boom swivels for easy positioning on either the right or left side.

Link to the audio interface I use:
http://www.amazon.com/PreSonus-AudioBox-USB-Recording-Interface/dp/B00154KSA2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1412137064&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=audio+box+usb

After switching to this headset i cant hear almost any unwanted noise. I even apologise for a loud truck of something but people cant hear anything :).

But be carefoul, the speakers arent that good as others gaming headsets, but i think it is the best solution for your problem.

Hope it helps! Sorry again for bad english, im still learning a lot of stuff and my keyboard doesnt helps :c.

u/XPINKIE_P1Ex · 2 pointsr/Twitch

I highly recommend a similar setup to mine, you might spend a little more but it's well worth it!

here are the links

Microphone: MXL 990

Mixer: Behringer Q802usb

Boom arm Neewer Boom Stand

Pop Filter: This one

u/unicorn_defender · 2 pointsr/audio

First, I'd like to point out that in your situation it would be redundant to run your mic through the mixer and then through another interface (unless your mixer has incredibly awesome pre-amps, which is something I'd argue most Behringer products lack).

If I were you, I'd ditch the $10 mic for a used SM58, and the Behringer usb mixer for a decent cheap interface like the PreSonus Audiobox, or if your budget permits, something from the Focusrite family.

That said, you may be able to increase your sound quality 10 fold just by upgrading the mic and leaving the XENYX. I don't have any experience with either of those products, but they are by brands I would warn any newcomer to steer clear from. Good luck!

u/mintorment · 2 pointsr/PS4

Quality seems great, I use it with an AT2020 mic and from what I can tell it sounds really nice.

My Audiobox looks almost exactly like that, but doesn't say '96' and has a few other very slight differences (I'm guessing that one supports up to 96kHz sample rate while mine only supports 44.1k or 48k). See here for the one I've got. I would imagine the 96 would work too, but I can't say for certain.

u/audiotecnicality · 2 pointsr/audio

Buy a USB audio interface like the Presonus Audiobox.

u/Foxum · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/Onotaro · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Keep in mind that if you want to upgrade to a higher-quality microphone or bigger setup, you may have trouble integrating USB gear into that setup, and a better USB microphone will cost much more than an equivalent analog microphone. So, if you see yourself upgrading to a better microphone in the future, or getting a more "professional" sound system, you may want to stray away from USB. If you go for an analog microphone and an audio interface, you will usually have better sound quality at the same price points as well.

With that said, I would go with the MXL 770 and a Focusrite iTrack Solo. I use a Focusrite product myself. These are very capable and well-regarded budget home recording devices.

Now how do we get this in budget? In audio, it's not a bad idea to go used or open box. For example, you can grab a Focusrite iTrack Solo from eBay right now for for $70 or less. Buy the MXL 770 from Amazon, a Neewer boom stand, and a XLR cable, and you've got yourself a very capable and easily upgradable kit for $165. Then, if you want to upgrade in the future, you can jump up to a more pro-level microphone and still support it on the iTrack, or if you need to plug in more microphones or instruments, you can get another interface and still use the MXL 770.

TL;DR I would highly recommend going for a non-usb microphone like the MXL 770 and a budget audio interface. With an extra $25 and some smart shopping, you can get some equipment that sounds better AND will save you money with future upgrades.

Feel free to ask me any questions you have.

Source: Amateur radio producer, person who spent too much and thought too little on his initial audio purchases.

u/SoaDMTGguy · 2 pointsr/Metallica

Alright, here's what I've put together for you:

  1. Turntable: Rega P1 ~$450

  2. Speakers: JBL LSR308 - $500

  3. Phono Preamp: Pyle-Pro PP444 - $10.49

  4. Passive Preamp (volume control): Schiit Sys - $49

  5. RCA-to-XLR cable (to connect speakers) 10' - $9.50

    Total: $1,018.99


    Logic:


    Turntable:

    Rega turntables are some of the best in the world, and their quality extends all the way down the line. I have the step-up mode, the P3, and love it. $400 is roughly the entry point for a "good" turntable, which I think is a solid investment given your budget.

    Speakers

    The JBL LSR series is very well regarded on r/audiophile. They are generally considered to be the best powered monitors on the market. Being powered means you don't have to buy a separate amplifier, saving money. If you want to save some money, you can drop down to the LSR305, which has a smaller woofer. It will not have as much bass power as the 308, but it costs $200 less for the pair (NOTE: The Amazon link is for a single speaker, not a pair)

    Phono Preamp

    You'll need one of these, because the signal coming out of the tone arm on the turntable is very low voltage. The phono preamp brings it up to a level that is powerful enough to be amplified further by the speakers. You can spend more, but you don't need more than the Pyle (I have one at home that I'd honestly mail to you, but Amazon Prime is probably cheaper than the cost of shipping for me :P)

    Passive Preamp

    This is a volume knob and a input switch. That's all. Volume knob because the speakers have the volume knob on the back, and have separate knobs per speaker. Didn't think you'd want to mess with that. Two inputs so you can hook up your turntable and your computer, or your phone, etc.

    RCA-to-XLR cable

    Because the JBL monitors are targeted at pro recording studios, they use "balanced" XLR cables instead of traditional RCA. The reasons for doing so are irrelevant, but you will need an adapter cable.

    If that's too much money

    As I said earlier, you could drop down to the JBL LSR305 (again, link is a single speaker, not a pair). That would bring the total down to $818.99. If you wanted to save money, this is where I would do it.

    Another option is to switch turntables to the U-Turn Orbit. It starts at $179, but I'd definitely add the cue lever for $40. I wouldn't spend more on other options though, not worth the money. If you go this route, treat this turntable as your starter, then replace it later.

    If you tell me your local craigslist, I can look around and see if there are any good deals, but the above is going to be pretty hard to beat.

    By all means, feel free to ask me any and all questions. I love doing this kind of research for people, so it's no skin off my back. I want to make sure you enjoy Ride the Lightning in all it's rifftastic glory :D
u/MisterPenguino · 2 pointsr/letsplay

I skipped around a bit in the video, and I honestly didn't notice anything. It wasn't the best, but definitely not awful. That might have something to do with my phone speaker though, I feel like this thing misses some bass, and voice overs with too much bass are pretty bad.

If you want to try moving your mic closer to your mouth before getting an whitely new mic you could try getting a scissor arm for pretty cheap and putting the mic right up in your face. I typically don't have my mic any farther than 3-4 inches from my mouth when recording. Closer than that would be better, but then the face an looks cluttered, and nobody wants that either.

In terms of the low buzz you hear after turning up the levels, have you tried processing the audio in anything like Audacity? Most programs have some sort of Noise Removal tool, though some do it better than others (personally sound like a tin can when I do it in Audacity but had no problems using noise removal in Audition).

u/Wontons · 2 pointsr/battlestations
u/Nautical_operator · 2 pointsr/Guitar

Of course, although I don't claim to be any expert in microphones or anything. I just have an [AT3035] condenser mic with a Presonus firestudio project as an interface plugged into my iMac via Firewire. I like to have lots of inputs, which is why I got one with 8, but you'd probably only need one. I'd check out the presonus audiobox as its cheap and simple, and uses USB.

u/SedateApe · 2 pointsr/ffxiv

First off, make sure you have a decent soundcard. My laptop's soundcard is balls so I use an external audio interface -the difference is huge. If your soundcard isn't up to snuff, look at grabbing something like this. You can get them used (or other versions) for cheaper, and they're a good utility to have around. You can also look for simple USB DAC (Digital to Analog Converter).

For speakers, if you want really good sound, look for powered speakers, they have built in amps to drive them so that you don't need to worry about an external amp hanging out on your desk. I use reference monitors, these have an excellent frequency range and soundstage that's hard to produce with a two-way desktop speaker otherwise. These are what I use currently, and you'd be hard pressed to find something cheaper that can produce the same sound. Also of note are the Rockit 5's at about the same price point. These are pretty future proof, if that's your thing. The next step up from a setup like this would be a sizable chunk of money more.

Of course, this is just my opinion, so take it with a grain of salt and all that. This focuses largely on clarity of sound, frequency range, and small footprint at this specific price range. There are certainly other setups that use subwoofers, forgo DACs, etc.

This setup will, at the very least, blow the Klipsch speakers you have listed out of the proverbial water, but the extra cost is there. If you have the money, I'd buy better speakers now, rather than upgrade in the future when you decide yours aren't doing it for you anymore.

u/goingTofu · 2 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

I got the Presonus AudioBox a couple months ago and I'm very pleased with it. Definitely would recommend it. I don't do dance music, but if you want an idea of how the preamps sound, here is example of something I did. (SM57 on a guitar amp straight to the Audiobox)

u/tycoonking1 · 2 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

Cheapest option would probably be to get a cheap Audio Interface like this, find a free DAW (I use ableton, they have a free version that would work for your needs but any should work), then learn enough about the DAW to add backing tracks and stuff.

u/xeonoex · 2 pointsr/audio

The AudioBox is in my price range, but the only advantage seems to be the MIDI in and outs. Is there an upside to running a keyboard through the USB interface rather than straight to the PC via a MIDI to USB cable? I will be doing almost everything on the PC anyways right?

I was looking at Reaper actually. I've used various software like Sonar, Audacity, Reason, some Cakewalk products, and Project 5, but I haven't really done recording. I think this will be the first software I try.

u/yankinhammer · 2 pointsr/battlestations

Here's the mount

I used this tutorial to mod it a bit so it fits. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WZCxtaqzvgA&amp;amp;t=189s

u/-SPENCER- · 2 pointsr/battlestations

Pretty sure it is the Neewer arm. Pretty cheap on amazon.

u/mgg1967 · 2 pointsr/Darts

Here is an Amazon link to the model I got. I got mine off of eBay. I actually found a listing for four of these for $6.99. It is a Neewer Adjustable Microphone Suspension Boom Scissor Arm.

https://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-Microphone-Suspension-Broadcasting-Voice-Over/dp/B00DY1F2CS

u/barbequeninja · 2 pointsr/Music

I've bought all this and your estimated are way high.

My setup:
Audiobox USB: $149 http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00154KSA2

Behringer condenser: $94 http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/245575-REG/Behringer_B_1_B_1_Condenser_Microphone.html

Behringer stereo mics: $58 http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/373764-REG/Behringer_C_2_C_2_Stereo_Matched_Studio.html

2x XLR, 2x 1/4" cables: $20 or so monoprice

Stand: $35 (local shop)
Midi keyboard: $50 used off eBay

Headphones: $50 closed ear


Well under $500 for a good setup that lets me record electric, vocals, accoustic, and my piano.

u/polymonic · 2 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

I did this with a Tascam 424 by getting 2 Behringer U-Control UCA-222's ($60 for a pair) and creating an Aggregate Audio Device on my Mac.

This way each of the 4 outputs was sent to their own dedicated track in Logic Pro X and I could mix it as I'd like in Logic.

u/pls_mercy · 2 pointsr/battlestations
u/findingejk · 2 pointsr/Beatmatch

Also consider:

Behringer U-Control UCA222 Ultra-Low Latency 2 In/2 Out USB Audio Interface with Digital Output
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0023BYDHK/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_AJrkDbQRRQ7VX

As an option. I have it and it works great to give an rca interface to the PC, you can then "listen to" this USB input on any of your connected output devices whether that be 5.1 aux cables or USB headset or literally any of your output devices.

u/mahhfew · 2 pointsr/podcasts

My partner and I are huge podcast listeners and are looking to start up one in the near future.

I've been doing a ton of research recently on the essentials needed to run a podcast with 2 hosts. Budget-wise, I'm looking for something that won't break the bank but delivers a great sound overall. Here's the list I've gathered so far.

  • Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 audio interface
  • ATR2100-USB Cardioid Dynamic USB/XLR Microphone x 2
  • Samson PS01 Pop Filter x 2
  • Microphone boom arm x 2 (optional)

    Do you have any recommendations on the above setup? Is there anything here you would swap out?

    I haven't done much audio post-production but I am familiar with the process from my video editing days. We don't have any desire to be mobile at the moment, so we're looking for a fixed setup.

    Thanks in advance!
u/louizzle · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

anyone know if you can mount this on something like a NEEWER Scizzor Arm Stand?

u/GnormPlays · 2 pointsr/letsplay

I know this might not be the exact answer you're looking for, buuuut, for the price it's worth a shot, you said you already have stands, so give This a try

u/bornrevolution · 2 pointsr/DJs

well, i figured this out, i think, if you're curious to know.

it seems OBS will recognize any audio device that your computer can, however it will only listen to channels 1 and 2 of whatever mixer you're using. you can sort of hardware-hack around this, by routing an rca-to-rca cable from the record out to the channel 1's in, thus making your audio heard within OBS, however you lose out on an entire channel just for this purpose.

i decided to get an extremely cheap usb/rca device, which will do the trick a lot more efficiently and will save me the channel i need.

this was the only video that actually shed some light on my situation.

u/bassist_human · 2 pointsr/Bass

I'm not familiar with Massive, but I can help with getting your bass signal to your pc.

As a first option, there are 1/4" guitar USB devices sold expressly for this purpose. Behringer makes the cheapest one I know of: Behringer UCG-102. Ran across it while looking for a general purpose USB audio interface, but I didn't buy it because of the reviews complaining about the drivers. There's a $30 Mac cable I've seen used, too, but I don't know if anyone has PC or linux drivers for it. There are a lot of others, most of which start around $100 that I've seen. The Native Instruments one runs several hundred $$, I think.

I have a cheap jerry-rigged method that suits my needs, though. If you have a desktop pc, a DI pedal, or a better soundcard than usual, you might be able to do something like this more easily, but this is what I threw together one day after picking up the ground-isolator and USB audio interface for other purposes:

1/4"-to-3.5mm adapter into the headphone-out of amp, then a 3.5mm-to-RCA converter on top of that. Ground-loop-isolator (mine has RCA inputs and outputs, hence the converters) from that into the USB audio interface. I'm using the Behringer UCA-222. The interface connects to the PC via USB, or course.

Two things worth noting: 1) you'll probably want to install "ASIO4ALL" drivers to decrease latency times on this or similar USB audio interfaces and 2) you may not need a ground loop isolator, depending on your hardware. I'm using a laptop in this setup, and if it's plugged in then there's some interference. Easy way to check: while the pc's plugged in, if you can output your pc's audio to the Line In on your amp without hearing static, you probably don't need a ground loop isolator.

Hope that helps.

u/Crashboy96 · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

If you don't have a lot of desk space just get an arm microphone mount.

Just attaches to the very edge of your desk, you can stop putting the condenser mic away, and it's easily movable.

Going to need a better stand than that one I linked for the real heavy mics however.

u/YouShouldBeProud · 2 pointsr/headphones

My motherboard has ALC892 and upgrading to a DAC has a significant improvement in my system, even the cheapest DACs sound better. But depending on your mobo implementation of that chip, and your PSU etc, YMMV. Sound card is still in your case so any EMI you may hear with your mobo sound will likely still be there, better to buy a external DAC like this one:

www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA222-BEHRINGER-U-CONTROL/dp/B0023BYDHK

u/OmoideAeternum · 2 pointsr/headphones

I recently came into a situation like this when switching from my HyperX Cloud IIs to audiophile-level headphones.

I solved my problem by buying a cheap condenser microphone + boom stand + usb audio adapter and then plugging my headphones in separately.

Not only did I end up with better sound quality, I ended up with better microphone quality than both a gaming headset and the ModMic / BoomPro.

u/_shadow_banned_ · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

So what's the application? Is this at home? How do you want to control it? You can get a Raspberry Pi and install PiCore There are DAC that rival anything available. You can get the HiFiBerry DAC/AMP and plug in a USB drive. Play all your music off that. Control it with your phone.

The Audiosource is a nice amp, and the ELAC are great. I am not a huge fan of the Fiio, it's nice, but it's not very robust. I have had better luck with those cheap Behringer UCA 222

u/podheadrod · 2 pointsr/podcasts

I use that mixer for my podcast. Bought it off Craigslist for 40 bucks about four years ago and it's still going strong. It gets the job done and I really have no need to upgrade. But like others have said:

  • Don't record with an onboard soundcard. You'll pick up a ton of static (I learned the hard way).

  • If you can save up for a USB mixer it's probably a better choice.

    But like I said, that's the mixer I use, granted I didn't pay $90 for it. The way I'm able to record to my PC is with this Behringer USB audio interface. Sure it's a lot more cables, but it was a much cheaper alternative back when I was starting up and didn't have the funds for a USB mixer. I would check your local craigslist or eBay for some used Behringer or Mackie mixers, both are built to last and there are some great deals to be had. Spend the extra money you save on better mics and you'll be on your way. If you're the paranoid type you can always invest in a digital recorder for back up, since someone else mentioned there's always a risk the program or PC will crash. Hasn't happened to me yet, but you never know. Be sure to let us know when your first episode is up!
u/i_dont_know · 2 pointsr/computertechs

You're asking this question in the wrong sub, but what you want is a low-latency audio interface. The Behringer UCA222 is an inexpensive USB option. I haven't used that interface (I use an Apogee Duet), but the specifications look good for the price and the reviews are mostly positive.

That $30 audio interface should work much better than an old sound card.

u/mindlessASSHOLE · 2 pointsr/hookah

I was looking into microphone holders like this. Assuming your hose is long enough. I ended up using an old clamp I had lying around.

u/SureIllrecordthat · 2 pointsr/microphones

The Shure SM58 might be the most durable Mic on the planet.

If you were to get an SM58, a Blue Icicle, an XLR cable and a scissor boom mount, you'd still have $35 bucks left over for headphones.

u/spinal2k · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

I use this to avoid using the 3.5mm jack on the switch.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Behringer-UCA222-U-Control-Ultra-Low-Interface/dp/B0023BYDHK/ref=sr_1_8?crid=2FPMNL3YYLOI4&amp;amp;keywords=beringer+usb+audio&amp;amp;qid=1569309803&amp;amp;s=gateway&amp;amp;sprefix=beringher+usb%2Caps%2C157&amp;amp;sr=8-8

I have absolutely no problems with the "sleep mode" hiss that you mention (no need to disconnect) and it's better sound quality IMO.

My setup isn't that different from yours, I have a mixer and a focusrite saffire 6 USB. You combine everything at the focusrite level, I do it at the mixer level (in my case, there's a reason for this that is unrelated to the switch). Some sound sources I don't want them to go through the DAC, so they go straight to the mixer.

u/evilmonk99 · 2 pointsr/Reaper

Depends on your price range. I started with a Behringer UCA222 then upgraded via a Steinberg UR-22 which broke after a while. Now I'm using a Behringer UMC404HD which has lasted well so far. You could go for the smaller version, which is surprisingly cheap, if you don't plan on recording many instruments at the same time.

People say good things about the Focusrite Scarlett series as well. I've never used one but they are a little bit more pricey than the Behringers so I always end up with one of them instead.

u/txby432 · 2 pointsr/Beatmatch

Depends in the controller. I got the Numark Mixtrack Pro as my first controller. It has a mix input and I use it with virtual DJ, which has a built in recording option. If you don't have that option, Behringer has a great external sound card that will give you RCA inputs in your computer to use a free program like audacity to record. Won't be studio, but will work.

u/FallenTF · 2 pointsr/letsplay

This Neewer one is the one usually recommended (I've had this one for a year now, works great)

https://www.amazon.com/NEEWER-Microphone-Suspension-Scissor-Stand/dp/B00DY1F2CS/

This other Neewer one looks to be about the same model but also comes with a pop filter

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Microphone-Suspension-Mounting-Windscreen/dp/B01GRMF5ZE/

&gt;What's the pros towards a mic arm over a tripod.

Placement really is the main benefit.

u/marssaxman · 2 pointsr/Beatmatch

I played on a Mixtrack Pro for years - bought it as a cheap experiment, figuring I'd upgrade when it wore out, and then it just... didn't wear out. I ended up playing quite a lot of gigs with it. It was really nice to have a cheap indestructible controller I could throw in a bag and take out to a warehouse or some forest or whatever.

Only thing the non-Pro Mixtrack is missing is a sound card, which would let you have a separate headphone cue output from the master output. But for $40, what have you got to lose? Try it out. You'll probably have a good time. If you like it, buy a sound card, or buy a better controller. I think it's a good plan.

u/pizzalover101 · 2 pointsr/Twitch

I have the C01U Pro and it does the same. Here's my setup:

Spider Mount: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LQLDM2

Pop filter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008AOH1O6

Arm: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DY1F2CS

Keeping the mic away from the keyboard helped a little bit. The other thing that helps is noise gating on OBS and Discord. However, the mic stand is really cheap. It works, but it isn't great. I plan to upgrade to this eventually.

https://www.amazon.com/RODE-Swivel-Mount-Studio-Microphone/dp/B001D7UYBO

Hope this helped.

u/Travisxe · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

I'm using this one for my snowball and it works great

https://www.amazon.com/NEEWER-Microphone-Suspension-Scissor-Stand/dp/B00DY1F2CS

u/KVYNgaming · 2 pointsr/Twitch

Ok well I won't explain everything in mine because it's a little over the top, but that's because I recorded music before I got into Twitch so I already had all my equipment. But what it essentially is a dynamic mic w/ XLR cable -&gt; audio interface w/ USB cable -&gt; computer. Here's the cheapest possible setup I could find on Amazon:

Shure PGA48 w/ 15' XLR cable: $40

Behringer Xenyx Q502USB: $60

Neewer Suspension Boom Stand: $14

total: $114

Do keep in mind that this mixer only has one pre-amp, meaning you'd only be able to plug one mic into it. If you wanted to plug in more than one mic (for instance if you have a friend coming over or something), you'd need a different mixer with more preamps. But yea my setup is essentially the above, just with more expensive stuff haha

If you wanna hear what my setup sounds like (getting a setup like the one above would get you a similar sound), here's a short highlight to see what it looks and sounds like (I chose this one to highlight the fact that you can move the mic around): https://www.twitch.tv/kvyngaming/v/106103644

Note how even when I grab the mic and move it, you barely hear anything. That'd never happen with a condenser mic.

u/TehSecretHunter · 2 pointsr/Workspaces
u/pink__sky · 2 pointsr/pocketoperators
u/Chuckles6969 · 2 pointsr/battlestations

I was struggling with this yeti for awhile, its just so big. I originally tried to get it on a NEEWER suspension boom that I connected the Yeti Shockmount, but I guess any kind of shock mount would work. I ended up not using any part of the actual scissor boom because it wouldn't support the weight of this mic at an angle that was useful to me, but instead used the part that mounts to the desk to hold the shockmount directly using the included threaded metal bar thing on the other end of the boom. here are some better pictures but it's still kind of janky. That's one hell of a mic you've got there. I hope you can figure something similar out

u/emackn · 2 pointsr/Twitch

I want that one. I got the cheaper NEEWER one and hate it. Doesn't move around very well and I always have to adjust it continually. It works for now.

u/djpernicus · 2 pointsr/audiophile

I am looking to get a better audio setup and am a little confused as to whether I should buy a mixer or USB Interface. I've seen that a USB interface sounds better and is obviously more simple. Although, I am not sure if it is truly the better option. Anyone care to weigh in? I am only going to have my one microphone and basically live stream/podcast.

Here is what I'm considering(for aesthetics as well):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IARJWAS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1&amp;amp;smid=A20H555M9MROEP
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DYK3MLG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1&amp;amp;smid=A1VMQDY5N961JZ
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DY1F2CS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1&amp;amp;smid=AAWX4OXQA15SW
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H4P32U8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1&amp;amp;smid=A2LCLHNZI16QFA

u/the_cody · 2 pointsr/synthesizers

To be able to hear it on your computer, you will need an audio interface, or, an audio input on your built-in sound. If your computer is a desktop and you have external speakers that are driven by audio out (and not usb) and are powered (aren't passive), you could just get a Stereo to Left+Right cable to plug the Microkorg into. If the speakers are passive (don't plug into power), you will need and amp to boost the signal from line level out to speaker level (or it will be very quiet).

To be able to control FL Studio / have FL Studio control the Microkorg, you will need a midi interface.

Something like the PreSonus Audiobox USB is a great 2 In x 2 Out Audio and 1 In x 1 Out Midi interface ($100 at Sweetwater. You can get cheaper midi and audio interfaces, but I wouldn't trust them all that much ... personal opinion ... though for starting out, it might not be a bad idea to test the waters as it were.

u/PoopyButt_Childish · 2 pointsr/Beatmatch

I used THIS usb audio interface for recording and it worked well enough for what you want to do. You record into Audacity by setting the input to USB. A separate mic input is not needed. I used it on an older MacBook Pro.

u/CraZee__ · 2 pointsr/battlestations

Thanks! Not a fan of the overly green setups, I like using it as a accent colour more than anything.

The mic stand I got a few years ago, and think they changed the design slightly now, but it was this Neewer that seems to be the current version of my stand they are selling. Its definitely nicer than having a tripod, keeps it off the desk. For the snowball though you have to change it slightly and take this part of the tripod stand off to use it but its simple enough to do.

u/tulesto · 2 pointsr/battlestations

Its this one here, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DY1F2CS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1 it comes with a piece that is needed to use the snowball on

u/Bronocularz · 2 pointsr/battlestations

here is the boom. nothing too fancy but get's the job done. yes little accessories are fun adds!

u/sboles66 · 2 pointsr/Guitar

Is that the specific audio interface you would recommend? What exactly should I look for in an audio interface?

I do have good over the ear headphones, also.

Would this be good?

https://smile.amazon.com/Behringer-UM2-BEHRINGER-U-PHORIA/dp/B00EK1OTZC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1517540542&amp;amp;sr=8-3&amp;amp;keywords=usb+audio+interface

u/moonlightmelody · 2 pointsr/audioengineering

holy shit, thank you so much for the explanation and the link - that helped me out a TON in even understanding what i'm getting into.... so basically, i have everything from 5-7 (i got beyerdynamics dt 770 pros a while ago), what i need is the others and an audio interface ... question: is it problematic to buy a cheap audio interface for my purposes (like, say, https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-U-Control-Ultra-Low-Interface-Software/dp/B0023BYDHK ) ?

and, since i can get a new beyerdynamics m99 for 300€ (im from europe), would you say thats an alternative of the same quality to the shure sm7b (which would cost 80 euroes more)? i'm trying to get the entire package for 500 euroes. my current setup is an usb microphone, so i'll need to get all the gear.

u/JesseW625 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

The older version of this one

u/UltraFlyingTurtle · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Get an audio interface for your PC.

Plug it into your USB and you're golden. You'll get way better sound, you'll be able to record at much higher resolution and quality, plus you can plug in multiple devices (on the bigger models). Also you'll get less latency if you use recording software and monitor your recording of apply real-time effects.

Typically they cost from $100 to $200 for budget ones, like the Scarlet series which are often recommended as entry-level audio interfaces, used for home studio setups. If you're semi-serious about recording, those Scarlet interfaces are the way to go (older generation models are fine).

That's what I've been doing to record vocals (and guitar, and other instruments) for years on my Macs and PCs.

However if you really want to go cheaper, Behringer has this $50 model that should get the job done. It can handle up to 48 kHz.

You'll need a cable adapter to convert the 3.5mm microphone to an XLR output, something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Campro-Stereo-3-5mm-Female-Adaptor/dp/B00CODJFIE

Or this (this one says it's mono instead of stereo, if that matters):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IU04QHU?psc=1

While looking, I saw this really low budget USB audio interface. It's only $29. It has 16-bit/48kHz converters. No personal experience with it, but the reviews are positive.
http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/UCA222

It uses normal RCA jacks so you can just get an RCA jack to 3.5mm cable, something like this should work: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ISHC36A?psc=1

Edit: Also saw this Lexicon Audio Interface at $47 bucks. No experience with it either, but it's another option:
https://www.amazon.com/Lexicon-Alpha-Desktop-Recording-Studio/dp/B000HVXMNE

u/troll_is_obvious · 2 pointsr/Guitar

The established brands like Ditto, Boss, etc are going to be $100+. You might take a chance on something like this, but I've never heard of them before.

You might also consider getting a cheap audio interface like this. Though, again, you may actually get better value by spending a little more money. Many interfaces come bundled with DAW (Ableton Live, ProTools, etc) software licenses, like this Focusrite.

It's not as easy as plugging a loop pedal into your chain, but you'll be able to do a lot more with your investment if you climb the DAW learning curve. There's plenty of free VST plugins for pedal and amp emulations out there. Even some free open source DAW, but I haven't researched what's available in some time. Ardour appears to be the top google result at the moment, though I'm not sure how suitable it is to playing live (vs. only recording for playback).

u/seezed · 2 pointsr/GlobalOffensive

Unless you need the extra ports and utility, higher price doesn't increase audio quality only functionality.

My best purchase in recent time was a BEHRINGER U-CONTROL UCA222.

u/ten_vrah · 2 pointsr/Gifts

Edit: I added links to Amazon products that are pretty nice and fit into your budget, if none of these work or you wanted advice on finding similar ones on slightly cheaper budgets just let me know and I'd love to help out!

&amp;#x200B;

I realize some people like them, and I mean no disrespect to u/MNLegoBoy but please do not get him a steam controller. I own one and me and everyone I've ever known who used one absolutely hated it.

&amp;#x200B;

If he only has one monitor in his setup I would highly suggest getting him a decent second monitor to have discord, youtube, or whatever else he wants up while he plays. It can be really helpful and never hurts to have.

&amp;#x200B;

If that doesn't work, you know about his setup...

and he uses a headset with a built-in mic I would suggest getting him this microphone and this interface. Even though they're cheap they're more than good enough and make people feel more legit because they're more like a streamer setup.

&amp;#x200B;

and he really likes his headphones/has really nice headphones but doesn't have a headphone stand or mount for him to keep his headphones on and keep his desk organized.

&amp;#x200B;

and he's into fighting games or older arcade games you could get him a fighting stick (be careful on this one, if he doesn't have room or likes using his KBM I wouldn't suggest it. It might also help to get one on a higher budget.)

u/greenysmac · 2 pointsr/VideoEditing

You'll need an interface. Something that has phantom power.

Something like this

u/m46uec5vibt7nyuhfaw4 · 2 pointsr/audioengineering

Best best is an audio interface. This one is $40 with a $32 used option, I've never personally used it.

https://www.amazon.com/Pyle-2-Channel-Audio-Mixer-Professional/dp/B003CY6OHY/ref=mp_s_a_1_32?keywords=Audio+interface&amp;amp;qid=1556760667&amp;amp;s=gateway&amp;amp;sr=8-32

This one is $40 with a $35 used option. I use it as a discord audio interface so I can use my nice mic on calls.

https://www.amazon.com/BEHRINGER-Audio-Interface-1-Channel-UM2/dp/B00EK1OTZC/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=Audio+interface&amp;amp;qid=1556760614&amp;amp;s=gateway&amp;amp;sr=8-4

You're only spending slightly more than the adapter you're looking for.

u/MHMoose · 2 pointsr/piano

Here is how I can hear both my computer sound and Yamaha P71 sound through my headphones.

  1. I bought this device on Amazon.

  2. I bought this cable on Amazon.

  3. For the cable, the stereo end goes into your keyboard, the two RCA plugs go into the device above.

  4. The device above connects to your computer to a USB port.

  5. Your headphones plug into the device. You can then hear your keyboard and computer at the same time, like if you wanted to play along to a backing track on YouTube or something.

    Hopefully that is helpful. Took me a while to figure out but it works really well.
u/bscotchcummerbunds · 2 pointsr/applehelp

Keep in mind not every Mac supports audio line in through the headphone port. They used to, but they stopped a couple years ago.

You can find your marketing model name by clicking the apple in top left corner and click About This Mac.

According to Mactracker - MBP 13" mid 2012 (still being sold), and MBP Retina's (both 13 and 15) since 2012 ditched that line in feature.

See the section titled "Audio" about halfway down page

If you have one of those and still want to record guitar, or any line level or xlr based source, you can get a usb audio interface pretty cheap these days that'll be a selectable interface in Garageband and the quality should be pretty good. In addition you could record from a microphone with one of those (or have a buddy play along) since they usually have two or more inputs.

Hope that helps!

u/sfish · 2 pointsr/VaporwaveMiniDiscs

Yes, there are at least three options (maybe more I am not familiar with). If you purchase an external audio interface with a USB -&gt; Toslink digital path (like the Behringer U-Control UCA222), and an appropriate cable, you can transfer all the digital audio content you want in real time from your computer to your MZ-N505. Then you'd need to place your own track marks and name the tracks manually. With NetMD software running on a PC, you can transfer WAV files directly to an MD at LP quality and naming files is much easier. There is more modern software for Windows, Mac, and Linux that can afford SP transfers and which also automates file naming, but you'll need to be comfortable with a command line interface. Setting up any of this is a little outside my ability to support directly, but there are many tutorials online to be found if you look/ask around.

u/Quetzal-Labs · 2 pointsr/gamedev

Can't recommend the Zoom series enough. They have absolutely fantastic audio quality. You can even pick up the discontinued ZoomH1 for under a hundred bucks second hand - although the battery latch does jiggle so you need to tape or tack it down when doing field-recordings, but the quality is just as good as the H1n and H4n which are far more expensive.

I used the H1 for years before upgrading, and only did so cos I had spare cash and felt the non-jiggling battery latch was worth a couple hundred bucks. But if you're on a budget, and have some tape, its a non-issue. I took that thing all over - Indonesia, New Zealand, Kuala Lumpur, Tokyo, Sydney, etc - and it stood the scorching heat, unrelenting humidity, ferocious snow, and more, pumping out quality in all scenarios.

Throw a deadcat on there and you're set for almost any amount of wind as well. I don't use the H1 for field recording anymore, but its now attached to a boom-arm on my desk and I use it for voice work. Probably the most value I have ever gotten out of $180.

u/yorunero · 2 pointsr/edmproduction

I have a Zoom H1. It's pretty good for what it is, is cheap but still has nice quality for the price. It does feel a bit flimsy but if you're careful with it it'll last you for a long time. It also happens to be on sale at Amazon.com right now.
http://www.amazon.com/Zoom-Handy-Portable-Digital-Recorder/dp/B003QKBVYK

u/adgewastaken · 2 pointsr/dndui

Easiest way to do it is a field X/Y mic (We used a Zoom H1, H4 is even better) at the head of the table, going into Audacity, or Garageband if you happen to have a Mac.
With some noise removal, you can get a decent recording, essentially what we had in season 5.

Nowadays we each have our own mic going through a mixer into Audio Hijack.
WHICH I CANNOT RECOMMEND ENOUGH! It's so cool. It can record anything happening on your computer and manipulate and store it any way you want.

u/BluePowerade · 2 pointsr/videography

Would you be able to place an external audio recorder (http://www.amazon.com/Zoom-Handy-Portable-Digital-Recorder/dp/B003QKBVYK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1408388355&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=zoom+h1) closer to the action? This would greatly improve your sound.

u/tani_P · 2 pointsr/jazzguitar

Audacity is a free, open-source recording program that's pretty great. It's possible to plug directly in to the mic input, but I'd suggest getting a USB mic and using your amp. The Samson Go Mic is good and the Zoom H1 (and other H series recorders) can also function as USB mics.

u/DarkOneCOC · 2 pointsr/Bass
u/assesasinassassin · 2 pointsr/videography

Get one of these http://www.giant-squid-audio-lab.com/gs/gs-mono.html

Plug it into one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Zoom-ZH1-Portable-Digital-Recorder/dp/B003QKBVYK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1371510911&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=zoom+h1


You can get away with crappy video and proper audio, but not the other way around. This is the best, most cost effective option and is not something you will have to buy again for lack of quality being on the cheap.

u/peshgel · 2 pointsr/photography

I've had really good luck with the Zoom H1: http://www.amazon.com/Zoom-H1-Portable-Digital-Recorder/dp/B003QKBVYK

Stereo, can record in 24bit/94khz wavs, really affordable ($100 or less). The device itself doesnt feel as robust as the more expensive ones, but its been knocked around quite a bit and still works perfectly. The audio quality is pretty damn amazing for that price. It has an output so you can have it record right to the camera's mic-in, or just save to micro-SD.

u/nudeyoshi · 2 pointsr/filmmaking

Consider this + this?

http://www.giant-squid-audio-lab.com/

http://www.amazon.com/Zoom-H1-Portable-Digital-Recorder/dp/B003QKBVYK/

I haven't used either, however I've been researching these for work and they both sound like winners. If this project gets the go-ahead, I'll be getting this setup.

u/derpotologist · 2 pointsr/audioengineering

Yeah this one is weirdly difficult to find. I actually pulled it back up on my phone cause it didn't show up right away on my computer. Anyway here you go

u/jordanblock · 2 pointsr/audio

Zoom h1 is a solid, simple recorder. Record to WAV then edit as needed with Audacity or Reaper

u/NoFuneralGaming · 2 pointsr/BassGuitar

I don't know what you're recording, or what equipment you already have, but these work great and they're USB plug and play.
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UM2-BEHRINGER-U-PHORIA/dp/B00EK1OTZC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1525338941&amp;amp;sr=8-4&amp;amp;keywords=behringer+usb

u/franksvalli · 2 pointsr/hardware

Dang, I was going to recommend this, but it's out of your price range ($95 / £77). Linking it here for others though:

http://www.amazon.com/Zoom-H1-Portable-Digital-Recorder/dp/B003QKBVYK/

Amazon UK link:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Zoom-H1-with-2GB-card/dp/B003Y6S2WU/

u/GoonyKnightMan · 2 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

Thank you so much! I was looking at a similar bundle on amazon that retails for only $99, but includes the mini version of the keyboard and the Ableton Bundle.

I would also need to pick up an audio hub for the mic and headphones, and I have no clue how much those go for. A quick search brought up this device, would that do the trick?

u/babygotbackpain · 2 pointsr/makinghiphop

I'm going to be a little bit different from these other comments. I think there are some pros and cons to this bundle. I clicked on your thread out of curiosity but ended up realizing this was the bundle me and my friend bought during college when we first started rapping. While this bundle is a good starter kit, we had a lot of issues with monitoring. Monitoring is the ability to hear yourself while recording. Its not super necessary but I prefer to hear myself within the headphones while I am recording. There is something called latency, which is the time you speak to the time you hear yourself in the headphones. With this bundle sometimes we couldn't monitor ourselves at all, and other times we could but the latency was so large that it sounded like we were rapping over our own echoes.

&amp;#x200B;

I would recommend purchasing audio technica M50 as headphones. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HVLUR86?aaxitk=cVQsljyy61ps.jPMCOqbVQ&amp;pd_rd_i=B00HVLUR86&amp;pf_rd_p=44fc3e0f-4b9e-4ed8-b33b-363a7257163d&amp;hsa_cr_id=9643844680501&amp;sb-ci-n=asinImage&amp;sb-ci-v=https%3A%2F%2Fm.media-amazon.com%2Fimages%2FI%2F81Hajq6vPiL.jpg&amp;sb-ci-a=B00HVLUR86

&amp;#x200B;

AKG perception microphone. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00160PRBU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

&amp;#x200B;

and this behringer audio interface. https://www.amazon.com/BEHRINGER-Audio-Interface-1-Channel-UM2/dp/B00EK1OTZC/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=audio+interface&amp;qid=1571236325&amp;refinements=p_72%3A1248939011&amp;rnid=1248937011&amp;s=musical-instruments&amp;sr=1-5

&amp;#x200B;

It comes out to the same price kind of. I have the M-audio M - track audio interface. I dont think they make it anymore but I really like it so if you find it on ebay or something it might be worth it.

If you are looking at a DAW to start recording. I suggest reaper. Its literally free and insanely robust software considering its free. Theres a 60 day limit on the software but you can really use the software past that date. I used it for like 1000 days before i ended up paying like the 60 bucks for it.

u/j3434 · 2 pointsr/audioengineering

Creative ! I think the zoom h1 makes real nice recordings . But you just need a way to create a hand held mount that will eliminate the hand friction . Or use an external mic. The recorder is affordable.

u/epo916 · 2 pointsr/Bass

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EK1OTZC/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?qid=1421354052&amp;amp;sr=8-7&amp;amp;pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70
It's only $50 and comes with basic recording software.

Also to improve, try joining a band or just playing more. I found rocksmith was a fun way to get better also. You'll be less dependent on focusing on what you're doing and bass will become more subconscious.

u/daemano · 2 pointsr/gadgets

Video
&gt;12X optical point and shoot with amazing low-light performance.

That pretty much disqualifies zooming on every P &amp; S camera. Typically zoom lenses have a max aperture of f5.6 or greater at the longest end. This problem is made worse by the tiny sensor built into p&amp;s cameras.

Also...

Audio
&gt;the mic was crap and you couldn't hear anything over the amazing bass (I heard a paper tape over the mic can help in these cases!).

Sound pressure at concerts is way too high for clear audio on the built in mic of any p&amp;s or even a DSLR camera. To record clear audio during a show you'd could try getting an external digital recorder (like a Zoom H1 audio recorder), record the audio and video separately, then re-sync them in your video editing software. See what I'm talking about &gt;HERE&lt;

I figure you want a p&amp;s to keep your setup small, discreet, and allowable at a concert venue, so all DSLRs are out in this reccomendation.

So, what you'll need to do is this:

  • Get p&amp;s camera with a fast lens (f2.0 - f2.8) Try the Canon 500 HS for $200 or the Canon S95-s100 for $400ish
  • Get digital audio recorder (Zoom H1 for $86)
  • Get good seats
  • Forget about zooming so you can get a decent image
  • Record video and audio seperately
  • Combine video and audio in your video editing software
  • Be happy?

    Note* - If you must zoom, you need to stabilize the camera (preferably a tripod or monopod). If you cant use either cause of the venue, then tuck your arms against your body tight, and hold the camera with two hands. In any case, your video is still gonna look like crap if it's zoomed, grainy (cause the camera will raise the ISO to try get a decent exposure), and jerky (cause your holding the camera with one arm above the crowd).

u/Canoo · 2 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

This is one as an example that I'm looking at.
http://www.amazon.com/Zoom-H1-Portable-Digital-Recorder/dp/B003QKBVYK/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

It records WAVs at 96kHz/48kHz/44.1kHz at 16-bit or 24-bit

u/No_Hands_55 · 2 pointsr/audioengineering

im looking for an interface that will

  • allow me to output audio from pc to my speakers (powered micca) and control the volume on the interface
  • allow me to plug in headphones that will take priority from the speakers
  • input for a mic with monitoring

    &amp;nbsp;

    i am looking at this Behringer to work with this mic and had a few questions i couldnt seem to figure out.

  • does it output the mic audio through the usb to the pc, or does it have go through the LR outputs to the mic input on a motherboard? or are the LR outputs for speakers?

  • if the mic is plugged into the interface will it always be live?

  • will the phantom 48v screw with my headphones or speakers if connected, or is that just for inputs?

    TLDR:

    Basically i want an interface to control my speakers, allow me to switch to headphones, work with a mic, without having to mess with windows or speaker volume controls. Is there anytime i am missing or am not understanding? any suggestions or tips?

    Thanks!!
u/BroPhail · 2 pointsr/Bass

I use this little guy and I've been nothing but happy with it

u/Zimmerel · 2 pointsr/edmproduction

I have a zoom h1 and it records pretty nicely. I'm not recording instruments with it or anything, but It works well for enviornmental sounds and random weird things that I tend to record. The price is definitely right on this one.

http://www.amazon.com/Zoom-Handy-Portable-Digital-Recorder/dp/B003QKBVYK/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1415834311&amp;amp;sr=1-1&amp;amp;keywords=zoom+h1

u/trees90 · 2 pointsr/GradSchool

I've had this one for about a year and like it a lot. I got the wind screen attachment also, but I've never needed to use it even though I do interviews in cars, outside, etc. YMMV. I've had good luck with this recorder even in settings like restaurants where I might be interviewing one or two people over a lot of background noise.

u/SHOWTIME316 · 2 pointsr/audioengineering

Probably a silly question but I figured I might as well ask. On the [UMC22] (https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UMC22-BEHRINGER-U-PHORIA/dp/B00FFIGZF6), using the direct monitor headphone output, can you hear whatever audio your computer is outputting as well? Since my main use for this interface will be gaming, for example, would I be able to monitor my own comms while also hearing my game and Spotify in the same headphones? I'm trying to see if I should bother replacing my lost 1/4th adapter that came with my AT M30xs.

u/Yrusul · 2 pointsr/recording

At that budget, I'd recommend a portable recorder, like the Zoom H1: It'll get the job done, and will work just fine for this purpose.

I googled its price, out of curiosity, Amazon is selling one for 109 dollars.

Of course, if quality is really not an issue, then yes, you can always just use your phone; Just don't expect professional-level quality.

u/jamesseventwenty · 2 pointsr/AskNYC

I really like these:

Zoom ZH1 H1 Handy Portable Digital Recorder (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003QKBVYK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_X8j3CbJG81417

But I’ll take a laptop and mics sometimes too - or just use my phone!

u/cecilkorik · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Well, first of all, it requires 48V phantom power and additional cables or it will not work. As the description on Amazon states:

&gt;PLEASE NOTE: Sound Card, 48V Phantom Power, 1/4" to XLR Cable &amp; XLR to XLR Cable are needed to purchase additionally.

Neewer has their own 48V power supply, I would recommend you get that. You may also need an additional XLR cable.

Assuming you've got all that figured out, you may be able to use your built-in sound card, as the description suggests that it comes with a 3.5mm to XLR cable. If the quality is not satisfactory, they also sell a USB sound card, or there are many others to choose from, from cheap one trick ponies like this up to and including professional audio boxes that connect directly to your PC. For a professional mic like that, those may be the best option. But they are not cheap.

Edit: links.