(Part 2) Best music recording equipment according to redditors

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We found 14,093 Reddit comments discussing the best music recording equipment. We ranked the 3,053 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.

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Subcategories:

Computer recording equipment
Mixers & Accessories
Music recording headphones
Studio audio monitors
Studio subwoofers
Mastering recorders
Studio multitrack recorders
Recording signal processors
Power conditioners
Recording studio environment equipment
Portable studio recorders
Microphones

Top Reddit comments about Music Recording Equipment:

u/PunkyCrisps · 192 pointsr/Music

Translation:

"Any half decent voiceover mic" with proper equalizer settings (controls how much of the bass, mid, and treble you hear) and compression (controls how dynamic the volume of a sound is, resulting in a louder overall apparent volume (technically, compression doesn't increase the decibel level, which is why TV commercials always sound louder than the shows despite there being laws in place about decibel levels needing to be the same)) will do the job.

He then drops some specific model names, SM7, C414 and C214

And finally, for the tidbits he adds about each model. "Cardioid" and "multi-pattern" refer to the pickup pattern of each mic. The pickup pattern is a description of where sound is best picked up around the mic. Cardioid refers to a roughly heart-shaped (in the '<3' sense) pattern, extending from the face of the mic. This means the mic will best pick up sound directly in front of it, and then extending out, with a wider pickup area further away. There are, of course, other patterns of pickup. The C414 noted above is capable of operating in 9 different patterns, giving you more flexibility for recording. "Brighter" just refers to sound quality, which here means... well, what it sounds like really. It's going to pick up less bass, which leads to the 'brightness'.

u/vossman77 · 67 pointsr/buildapcsales

Be careful condenser mics like the Blue Yeti will pick up a dog farting 4 blocks away.

If you learn how to use a microphone and position it close to your mouth. I would go for a dynamic mic like the Audio-Technica AT2005 USB

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007JX8O0Y

It is cheaper, higher quality, and won’t pick up as much noise.

Edit: I own both, because like most people I bought the Yeti based on the hype. But I did some research and learned about microphones and audio recording. It also depends on your use case. My Yeti (condenser mic) is great for when the kids want to talk to grandma, because they are never going to project their voice to the microphone.

But if you are podcasting or streaming and it is just your voice, dynamic microphones are the best. With my Yeti, I was picking too much background noise. I mean if you have a quiet studio, you could probably get by with a condenser mic, but it would pick up the fan noise from any computer case in the room. Noise suppression and noise gates can help, but you might as well buy a dynamic microphone.

Check out these resources for a good discussion:

u/plazman30 · 36 pointsr/headphones

I've been using Command strips to mount stuff under my desk for a while now.

What we have here is

  1. O2 headphone amp going to my CD Player.
  2. O2+ODAC going to my PC
  3. Rolls MX51S mixer.

    The Rolls MX51S has my laptop, my Amazon Echo, and my CD player all hooked up together and fed to my JBL LS305B MK II studio monitors.

    The Rolls does have a headphone jack on it, but the O2s sound way better than the headphone jack in it.

    And yes, I am planning to buy some black Command Strips at some point and swap them out.

    EDIT: These are the Command strips I am using.
u/Bear_Masta · 26 pointsr/Guitar

For Christmas, my girlfriend got me a Vox AC30 amplug 2 headphone amp, which is a digital modeler of the classic Vox AC30 tube amp. Now she can watch Dancing With the Stars or whatever and I can still be on the couch practicing.

My initial impression is that this thing is bad ass. I really couldn't be much happier. I use a pair of Audio-Technica M50 headphones and the sound quality on this device is crystal clear. It can get loud too! When you crank the volume and gain to 10, it fucking roars in your headphones.

There are three knobs, volume, tone, and gain, which in and of themselves are incredibly versatile, offering a full range of tones from clean to incredibly overdriven.

It also has an effects button that cycles through clean, chorus, delay, and reverb. You can also put the whole device through three different modes by cycling the power button once it's on (mid boost, low and hi gain). Those boosts really give you new timbres and flavors to play with.

It's entirely possible to run this through a bunch of pedals too; it's an amp after all. It also has an aux in for jam tracks, metronome , etc. ALSO, you can definitely run this directly into a digital outboard recording system or your computer and record with it! The audio output is just a headphone jack, so there are a myriad of ways to record or listen to it. Even computer speakers!

Caveat to that: I've read that it the sound quality is directly related to the quality of your headphones/speakers though. Like I said, I have a decent set to play this thing through, but if you try to use some crappy earbuds your experience will much worse. Solid sounding, over the ear headphones are the way to go with this. Or again, speakers are totally an option.

I got the AC30 model, but there are also a classic rock, metal, and bass variants. It might sound like those are the way to go, but believe me, the AC30 can get just as filthy as the metal one. I've played an SSS strat, an epiphone sg tuned to C, and my Ibanez bass guitar through it, and even the bass sounded good through it. I like stoner rock and doom metal, really mid-heavy, low tuned stuff, and this can give me a lot of the sounds I'm looking for, while still retaining the sweetness and versatility required by famous Vox AC30 users like the Beatles, Kurt Cobain and Tom Petty.

And for $40, it's right there in your price range. Look up a couple demos on youtube and I think you'll be impressed. Just be careful not to buy the original model as it's the same price but without the effects and boosts.

If you have any questions let me know!

u/buzzbros2002 · 21 pointsr/audioengineering

Oh my god, my weird sound effects history is actually useful here. I have a Zoom H2 rigged up to small boom pole using a shock absorber with a good number of washers to steady a bolt onto it that will fit onto the bottom of the mic and keep it steady without too much noise when moving it.

I've totally recorded a few animals (yes, including my own cat) this way with success.

EDIT: Pictures of the setup sans boom-pole.. Boom pole in question is from this.

u/professorlamp · 16 pointsr/battlestations

Yes and no. You should put the sub on the ground butttttt, you should decouple it a few inches off the ground so that the vibrations don't travel through surfaces.

Audio engineers use these but you might find that £30 is a bit overkill

http://www.amazon.co.uk/AURALEX-ACOUSTICS-MOPAD-accessories-Speakers/dp/B0002D0B4K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1413655545&sr=8-1&keywords=auralex

Some books will probably do the job, though not as good as those mopads.

By the way, this advice goes for speakers too (not just subs). Don't have them directly on the surface, have them off of it by a few inches

http://www.tmsoundproofing.com/decoupling-explained.html


If you really care, you can read more above.

u/Shrimpy_Grits · 16 pointsr/Guitar

For those of you playing late at night this is what you need.

u/clupean · 16 pointsr/buildapc

Software: easy. Put the hard drives to sleep after X minutes, reduce the case and cpu fans speed.

Hardware: also easy but costs money.

  1. replace the case fans with Noctua fans or equivalent
  2. replace the cpu cooler with a Noctua cpu cooler or equivalent
  3. replace the PSU with one that has a 0rpm or quiet mode
  4. add acoustic foam
  5. hard drive silencers but use an SSD as the main drive
  6. additional anti-vibration kit and an anti-vibration rubber gasket for the PSU if you think it's necessary
  7. external sound card or white noise filter (not the ones made for cars) for the speakers

    I did all of the above in my PC but in 7) I simply bought headphones with an integrated potentiometer.
u/draggingalake · 15 pointsr/giantbomb

Drew uses a lot of stuff I've used or am currently using!

The headphones are the Sony MDR7506, or the Sony MDRV6 and they are ultimately the same thing. I have both, I haven't been able to tell the difference, and from what I've researched, they use the same parts internally, so the only thing different is the cosmetics. I know the Vergecast also uses these headphones in their studio.

While I don't have the Focusrite 2i2 like Drew was using, I do own the Focusrite 18i8 (Gen 1), and the Focusrite 18i20 (Gen 2) and both are phenomenal. They are more expensive than a standard USB Mixer, but the pre-amps make up for some of that cost, plus the ease of use.

I have never used the Shure SM7B, but it's the same microphone that Kinda Funny Games uses. I use the Electro Voice RE20, which is the same Microphone that Giant Bomb West and East uses, as well as, the Vergecast. I would love to hear Drew's opinions on both mics. Both mics are exceptional review-wise and very popular in audio recordings, but having Drew compare the two would have some value.

And just because I have listed all the equipment Drew has used. Here is the Anker 10-Port Hub he was using. Anker is a great brand for USB/Computer accessories. They have an outstanding warranty and customer service department.

Note none of these links are affiliate links, this post was simply to make it easy to find the gear Drew was using.

u/marzipandancer · 13 pointsr/KerbalSpaceProgram

I think I would like a representation of the /r/kerbalspaceprogram auto-mod flair bot to be punched very much.

I'm in Orlando and don't fly home until Saturday, so I'd drop it in the mail then. This adapter appears to be of dubious build quality but is cheap and (when working) works fine.

$30 for this one but Blue makes fairly decent quality and reasonably priced audio components for home recording.

u/duffn · 13 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

The 5" JBL 305P MKII are currently $89.10 on Amazon. Lowest price ever.

JBL 305P MkII 5" 2-Way Powered Studio Monitor (new model) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077N2GQXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-RM9BbEJACK3K

https://camelcamelcamel.com/JBL-2-Way-Powered-Studio-Monitor/product/B077N2GQXC?context=search

u/OzzyWozzie · 12 pointsr/battlestations

Here's everything for equipment, so hopefully this answers any questions:

---

Wall:

u/DrChiz · 12 pointsr/PKA

Kyle's Setup

Microphone (Shure SM7B) - https://www.amazon.com/Shure-SM7B-Dynamic-Microphone-Cardioid/dp/B0002E4Z8M/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=shure+sm7b&qid=1549674292&sr=8-2

That runs into a clean gain booster, Cloudlifter (I didn't know he wasn't running this since he got his Shure in 2014. Once I learned that, I had him get one and he's been running that for about a month and a half now) https://www.amazon.com/Cloud-Microphones-CL-1-Cloudlifter-1-channel/dp/B004MQSV04/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=cloudlifter&qid=1549674274&sr=8-5

Which goes into his mixer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CTKI10A/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Now if someone wanted to run this setup, I would say don't get the Behringer, they have problems but most of the time they're fine. But you want to get a Focusrite Scarlett https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Audio-Interface-Tools/dp/B01E6T50LY/ref=sr_1_12?keywords=cloudlifter&qid=1549674274&sr=8-12 or Mackie Onyx https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-Producer-Interface-Bundle-Polishing/dp/B07GJWQQM3/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=mackie+onyx&qid=1549674443&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1 (I recommend the Onyx but they're both fucking great, used both, currently running the Mackie in my new studio setup)

Taylor's Setup

Same exact setup as Kyle, even though I told them to get him this Blue Micrphone TUBE arm: https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Compass-Premium-Tube-Style-Broadcast/dp/B078MLBGRM/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=blue+microphone+arm&qid=1549674585&sr=8-5

It's a way better arm. Kyle is using the standard Rode arm & either that's what Taylor's got now or he's using a super cheap ass one. But no way that cheap ass one would work with the Shure's weight, so he probably got a rode. But I recommended they both get the Blue tube arm.

Woody's Setup

Microphone (Electro-Voice RE20):

His preamp/mixer is all in his rack that's mounted with his PC which is down by his knee. I forget what he's using cause it's been many, many years since he built that thing.

The microphone arm he is using is the cadillac of microphone studio boom arms the K&M 23860: https://www.amazon.com/23860-Microphone-Desk-Arm-Black/dp/B00AXMM0L2?tag=paidinsi-20

-----------------

The Shure SM7B and Electro-Voice RE20 are the gold standard for radio and podcast production in studios. You can't go wrong. But if you get the SM7B then you need a pre-amp or something that's going to give you an additional 20-40db of clean gain.

If you don't have that Cloudlifter and just use it with that mixer, then you have to crank the fuck out of the gain which greatly increases and raises your noies floor. So you'll be audible and sound good, but you'll still get lots of white noise/background noise.

In my setup it's the Shure SM7B, Mackie Onyx, Cloudlifter, Blue Mic arm and quality XLR cables. When I plan to expand and add more microphones to do several people in studio productions. I'll create a rack unit VERY similar to what Lefty is currently running. With an electricity conditioner and the same preamp he has that I researched on my own and it's perfect for getting the clean gain added that you need so you don't need the cloud.

u/the320x200 · 11 pointsr/oculus

One of these and EDIT: then to one of these and then one of these and it should be good to go :)

I didn't check the gender on any of those connectors. On the plus side, after going through so many adapters you'll have authentic CB-quality audio!

u/jeeringsole · 10 pointsr/tf2

We don't have a rule against it.. and you can totally pull it off (you would still need to be in mumble to hear your teammates) but generally most teams would frown upon it, as you aren't able to quickly give them information.

This mic here is $23.99 and I've been using it for two years. --> http://www.amazon.com/CAD-U1-Dynamic-Recording-Microphone/dp/B000ULQTE0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1412993851&sr=8-2&keywords=usb+mic

Also Christmas is coming :)

u/jimhodgson · 10 pointsr/Porsche

Hey dude. Great video. You might also crosspost to /r/cars. I bet they'd dig it.

My wife and I do a YouTube car show called Crossthreaded. We subscribed and retweeted and facebooked it.

We're by no means experts, but two things you can really easily do:

  1. Grab a lavalier mic. The cheap (~$30), wired ones on Amazon really help get all the "room" out of your audio. We have two of these going into a H4N.

  2. Be a little more dynamic. If you talk to the camera exactly the same way that you'd talk normally to a friend, for some reason it looks wooden.

    More shots of the car would have been good like the other poster said.

    Great work, though.
u/putinworkworkwork · 10 pointsr/Guitar

It sucks to hear but there isn't much you can do. I just got a Marshal DSL40C 100w where I'm having a similar problem.

I found a "quiet enough" spot with the gain super low and the volume even lower. Doesn't sound great but it's good enough for practicing.

Headphones are really your best option unfortunately. I don't like practicing with them either, but sometimes I have no choice. Plus I got something similar to this. New amp I got is heavy and I'm lazy so it's great for when I want to practice somewhere else besides my room.

You could also get an interface to plug your guitar to your PC and then use some sort of digital amp. It's not nearly as good but it's just for practice and at least you can play at whatever volume you want.

Another option would be to get a new practice amp.

I wouldn't get any pedals or anything. You'd be better off somehow cutting the volume after it hits the amp.

u/ShocKuMz · 9 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Unfortunately, there's not much you can do to "soundproof" between floors without ripping drywall from their ceiling and adding insulation. You can try adding some foam panels in your room to help absorb some of the sound and reduce echo.

u/BangsNaughtyBits · 9 pointsr/podcasts

The Audio-Technica ATR2100-USB or the nearly identical AT2005-USB are ~$60-$50 and they also have an XLR port that allows them to be brought forward if you ever upgrade to a mixer or audio interface. The single most significant difference is the 2100 has a lifetime limited warranty and the 2005 has a one year warranty though I personally prefer the looks of the later. These are dynamic microphones which means they are quieter but reject room and off axis noise in non sound controlled rooms better. I have seen them compared to microphones costing several times as much quite favorably though I think a little of that is the reviewer waxing a bit poetic. Regardless, they are very good.

http://www.audio-technica.com/cms/wired_mics/b8dd84773f83092c/

http://www.audio-technica.com/cms/wired_mics/6dc0904d195f995e/

http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATR2100-USB-Cardioid-Dynamic-Microphone/dp/B004QJOZS4/

http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT2005USB-Cardioid-Dynamic-Microphone/dp/B007JX8O0Y/

!

u/sk9592 · 8 pointsr/buildapcsales

The Audio-Technica AT2005USB or Samson Q2U (not Samsung)

https://www.amazon.com/Samson-Handheld-Microphone-Recording-Podcasting/dp/B07FKG8PGZ/

https://www.amazon.com/Technica-AT2005USB-Handheld-Dynamic-Microphone/dp/B007JX8O0Y/

Both of these mic are plug-and-play over USB. But they also have XLR outputs if you ever want to move up to a more professional audio setup.

u/Xioden · 8 pointsr/funny

If you're not looking for a floor one, I picked up one of these. The radial mount included with it works, although I had to use it slightly differently. The elastic band was too short to wrap around either side, and was a bit too loose just going around the sides, so I twisted the elastic bands around the brackets like this. Four extra twists like that was enough to hold it tightly.

It has the adapter to use the normal screw mount on the moment included with it as well. My only complaint with it, is the XLR cable was useless for me, it's a 3 pin, while the Yeti Pro is 5 pin (A lot of people cut them off, I zip tied it as a "Just in case"). I would have loved to see a USB or 5-pin option.

Other than that, I have no complains about it, and can say I don't see any real reason to go with the pricier options like the PSA-1 given they're about three times the price.

u/cmcentire · 8 pointsr/buildapcsales

Note: the mic in the title is a XLR mic and will need some sort of USB interface for use on a computer (with 48v phantom power).

I recently picked up the USB+ version for cheap and this budget scissor arm along with a foam pop filter/windscreen and it works great for discord. The shock mount was a pain in the butt to fit with the AT2020 though.

u/HighCrimesandHistory · 8 pointsr/podcasting

I was just about to! Thought someone could use this in an apartment or spare room.

1.) Get a screen room divider off of Amazon. I used a 6 panel with a paper film on it for $80, but you can pick up 4-panels for $60. I shopped around a bit for it, YMMV. The panels determine the size of your space that it encompasses. I stand and record and found that 6 panels is comfortable enough to enclose the shelf and I and leave plenty of elbow room. W/o the shelf it'd probably fit two people sitting, if a little snug.

2.) Buy some 12 inch acoustic foam squares. Double check the dimensions of each panel to determine size (mine was 15 inch, so I cut some squares into 1/4s to cover the whole panel). I originally started with 24 1x1 squares and eventually picked up another 24 to cover both the wall and the bottom 2/5s of the divider. Most manufacturers come with sticky tabs for mounting.

3.) When you mount, give the tabs an hour on the acoustic panels to set, then another hour set on the divider. Only had two pieces come off the first time and just reapplied spare pads I had laying around.

Overall, came out to be $150 for something I can save space with and take with me if I need to move or record elsewhere.

u/chopandscrew · 8 pointsr/battlestations

These would absolutely help if your apartment is echo-ey. It just depends how nicely you're trying to treat your room. Auralex makes some professional grade panels that will end up costing you a bunch, but you'd really only need those if you were doing some serious recording. If you're just wanting to cheaply treat your room a little then I'd check out something like this. They look cool and they'll help with the reverb in your apartment a little bit, but the change won't be super noticeable. I mainly just don't want people buying these thinking they will be able to watch porn on full blast without their roommates hearing. They definitely won't sound proof anything.

u/HybridCamRev · 8 pointsr/Filmmakers

> I want it to sound professional

/u/JimEld - you will probably be disappointed with the results if you hide a recorder on the table in a noisy bar. The pickup pattern for the built-in mics is omnidirectional, so the ambient noise is likely to overwhelm your dialogue.

If you can't swing a boom between your actors, I recommend a [$168 used Zoom H4n Pro] (https://www.amazon.com/Zoom-H4N-Digital-Multitrack-Recorder/dp/B01DPOXS8I/ref=as_li_ss_tl?m=A2QIWAU5KJ023X&s=merchant-items&ie=UTF8&qid=1524404156&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) to save money - plus a couple of mics on booms outside of the camera frame - one for each actor.

You can get a [couple of Samson C02 XLR mics bundled with booms and cables for $153.99] (https://www.amazon.com/Samson-Pencil-Condenser-Microphone-Bundle/dp/B005EZ04X4/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20).

Getting a mic within a couple of feet of each actor's mouth is how you get "professional" sound.

Hope this is helpful and good luck with your short!

u/MainHaze · 8 pointsr/GameAudio

You can't go wrong with a Zoom H4n

u/Pnume · 8 pointsr/audiophile

This.

Also: I'd put isolation pads under 'em.

u/coreyf · 8 pointsr/nfl

Great video again!

I gotta say though, the one unpolished part of your videos is the quality of your mic. The Shure SM7 is kind of an industry standard for radio and as versatile a mic as you're going to find, but if the price tag is a little steep for you, an SM58 should do the job just fine. Eminem actually recorded album tracks on this mic. I've got a few and they take a beating as well.

I think a small investment in your part can really push your projects to another level.

Or, I'm an idiot because you're already doing a great job. Thanks for your effort.

u/ibizzet · 8 pointsr/podcasting

Ok studio engineer here. when you say you don’t see the point in getting a better mic i’ll counter with this: you get what you pay for. if you want a better microphone spend more money. if you want to stick with your little usb snowball then that will work but sound like crap.

The grail of studio mics (especially for podcasts) would be the Shure SM7B and running around $400

if you’re budget is lower than that, consider the Shure SM58 for $105

and if you’re trying to go EVEN cheaper than that, the Shure SM48 is so cheap at $35 and even that will sound infinitely better than tour blue snowball.

so let me know if you have any questions. if you’re serious about upgrading your mic you might be intimidated because there’s thousands of options.

u/michaelbabbish · 8 pointsr/videography

Honestly, neither.

You are better off with a used H4N like this paired with a shotgun mic such as this one. Many a low-budget documentary have been made with that very combo for many years.

On-camera mics simply will not get you the professional audio you need. They are good for scratch or emergencies, and that's about it. Also, this is gear worth BUYING and not renting. Audio gear doesn't loose value. All links in this post are referral links.

u/proxpi · 7 pointsr/audioengineering

I'm going to assume you're talking about electric guitar, and you want to record on to your computer.

We'll go with the simplest/cheapest way (Note, you won't want to run an electric guitar directly into a computer, it'll generally sound like crap)

First off, you'll need a microphone. The Shure SM57 is an industry standard for recording many things, from guitar cabs to snare drums, and more. It's only $100, too! There's a knockoff of that mic, for half the price, that's supposed to be just as good (some people even prefer the sound), the GLS-57. Both of these mics are "dynamic" mics, and either of these mics will work.

You'll need to get a mic stand to place the mic in the proper position on the amp, which is a separate lesson in and of itself.

Next, you need a way to get the mic signal into your computer. The quickest, cheapest, but least featured way to do so would be something like the Blue Icicle. You would plug it into your computer, plug an XLR cable into it, and plug the mic into that cable.

For software, the most basic, and free software is Audacity. It really is pretty basic, but you can plug your stuff in, hit record, and it'll record. If you want something more powerful, check out Reaper. It's really good, and pretty cheap (and has a more or less unlimited trial period if you're that kind of person). It is somewhat complex though, and it'll take a decent amount of time to get comfortable with. If you have a Mac, Garage Band is just peachy.

inally, the last important part is hearing what you're recording. At the low-end, you're probably better off with headphones. I recommend either the Sennheiser HD280s or the less expensive Sony MDR-V6s (mostly identical to their professional MDR-7506s). If you want to get some actual monitors, check out the Behringer MS16s.

Unsurprisingly, you can spend a hell of a lot more money on any of these things. Feel free to ask any questions!

Bonus advice! If you want to record an acoustic guitar, instead of the SM57, you'd want to get a small diaphragm condenser (SDC) mic, like the MXL 603S.

u/novel__ · 7 pointsr/truetf2

There's no way you can be on a team without a mic.

Price an issue?

  • This Clip On Mic is only 8 dollars and is pretty high quality too.

  • If you can afford to go higher I can recommend a Blue Snowball for $60.

  • Also, maybe a CAD U1 for $30.

    Even a headset will do. Make sure you enable push to talk and are using headphones.

    Are you afraid? Get over it. Sorry for the bluntness, but consider your team to be friends. People you'd play any game with and still have a good time. If they aren't people you can relate to, don't join their team. It's that simple. Find people you can relate to easily. Find people that won't yell at you. Find people that will crack the occasional joke and laugh at stupid/amazing plays. You will create incredible bonds with these people, and have lifelong friends. These people must be more important to you than a random lobby player, so talk to them!

    And to be honest... most teams don't take people who can't/won't talk. Even if you were Clockwork or Ruwin.

    So, get a mic.
u/thegingerlord · 7 pointsr/Filmmakers

Okay.

1 - Take a breath.

You are overwhelmed and rightfully so, shooting is not easy and weddings are not easy either.

If you are doing interviews you need a mic. DO NOT USE ON CAMERA AUDIO! YOu can rent a rode videomic maybe from a local camera store, or buy this it is cheap, if your camera take audio in it will work. Keep in mind it would be Mono so in post you would need to make it stereo by duplicating the audio and sending it to the opposite side by panning it over or using a effect. Audio is very important it will be hard for you not having done this before.

As for video goes always have a camera rolling as a safety net. Sometimes when I do handheld for a concert or live event. I stick a go-pro on top of my camera in wide mode as a safety net incase something happens and I miss something.

I am not going to lie this will be very hard for you to do and you will be stressed out, a lot. Your friends will be better off hiring someone who has experience in this, but if they are content on having you do it I will walk you through.

Get lot of footage, if you don't ind editing a lot, then shoot a lot. Stick a camera up on a tripod during the ceremony frame it nicely hit record. Then go shoot something else with a different camera. That camera on sticks would be your safety net. Zoom in to get shots of the ring and face. Weddings are very emotional so the face, eyes and mouth are key to capture.

You said you don't know how to use the reflector. It has two sides as your know a silver and a gold. This is used to get light on people in the sun (or even from a light if you need to). You bounce the light from the sun into the subject. It is used a lot on sunny days to counter shadows the sun would cause on people's faces. The reflector would be bounce light from the sun onto the subject. You have to hold it or have a friend hold it. Keep in mind the sun moves so you constantly have to adjust your angle of reflection.

  • There are other editing programs that are free. Search around I don't know off the top of my head, but I have heard of some.
  • Gear wise, as I said a mic of some sort, you will need better audio then your cameras can record.
  • the ring exchange depends on the layout of the wedding, if you are the only shooter I would do the wide from your safety camera and get a close up with another camera. Remember to get the smiles, the ring is important, but the emotions are more important.
    *Movie templates are always available, if you want a DVD template or open credits you can find something for free especially for weddings online.
  • Common pitfalls include, shaky footage, out of focus footage, poorly framed footage, forgetting to record, BAD AUDIO.
  • how you prevent it ending up like crap, PRACTICE. Go film things with your set up test audio test zooming, test editing test everything so when you are out and shooting you don't get the "Oh shit" moment. PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE. Watch other wedding videos see what you like what you don't and how you can make a good video with your tools you have.


    TL;DR be prepared, plan, practice.
u/AlanDavison · 7 pointsr/letsplay

$500... lessee...

Mic: Electro-Voice RE320https://www.amazon.com/EV-RE320-Variable-D-Instrument-Microphone/dp/B00KCN83VI


Interface: Steinberg UR22MKIIhttps://www.amazon.com/Steinberg-UR22MKII-2-Channel-USB-Interface/dp/B017MVUAHM


Windscreen: Electro-Voice WS-PL2https://www.amazon.com/Electro-Voice-WS-PL2-Foam-Windscreen/dp/B0043ISZXY


Stand: On Stage MS7701Bhttps://www.amazon.com/Stage-Stands-MS7701B-Tripod-Microphone/dp/B000978D58

Cables: XLR cablehttps://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Male-Female-Microphone-Cable/dp/B01JNLTTKS

Cables: USB cablehttps://www.amazon.com/Hosa-USB-215AB-Type-Speed-Cable/dp/B000VBGD6S

Justification for each:


RE320: It's a hell of a mic. Consider the Rode Procaster instead if you want to save a bit of money.


UR22MKII: Solid interface. Nothing more to say, really, except that it has a full 60dB of available gain, unlike some cheaper interfaces.


WS-PL2: It's a windscreen. Since my intention here would be close-talking into the mic (i.e., lips practically pressed against it), the windscreen is the better choice. It's expensive, but it's a thick-ass microphone.


MS7701B: Since the mic doesn't come with a shock mount, a floor stand is probably going to be preferable so keyboard/mouse noises or desk bumps aren't picked up as much.

XLR cable: It's an XLR cable. You'll need that.

USB A-to-B cable: It's a USB cable. I'm not 100% certain whether the interface comes with one, but... just in case. Obviously, if you intend to buy them, find out for sure whether it does or not, first.

Total as of right now: $487.09

u/Tarqon · 7 pointsr/Twitch

I'm late to the party but I strongly disagree with your microphone suggestions. A condenser microphone is going to pick up mouse/keyboard sounds no matter how directional it is. I originally bought a Blue Yeti and was shocked by how much environmental noise it picks up, this is not a viable option for most people.

Instead what you should do is get a dynamic cardioid or supercardioid microphone. Not a lot of these exist with a USB connection but the ones that do work extremely well. I recommend the Audio Technica ATR2100-USB (alternative version) or the Samson Q1U if you can't find the AT, they're difficult to get in Europe for some reason.

Either of these will serve the purpose of the average steamer much better than the microphones you are recommending.

u/themachu · 7 pointsr/hardwareswap

Just wanted to chime in, but you can get the boom arm and shock mount for around $20 on amazon.

u/AvidyaZen · 7 pointsr/mindcrack

The headset that broke was the G35 headset from Logitech which goes for about $90 these days. It's a great headset but this would be my 3rd set in 4 years. The mic quality is average and often requires fussing with in post but overall it's a great headset.

While rocking this backup setup I've been using ear buds and I quite like it compared to the closed ear noise cancelling headset so I don't think I want to go the headset route again.

I've always wanted to go the XLR/Mixer route. This would allow me to manipulate any volume/noise issues with the mic on the fly and not touch it at all in post. I never settled on a solution that was afforable and always went with what I knew the G35.

This is the goal. It's not much more expensive than the G35 headset but is the correct tool for the job :Þ

  • Audio-Technica AT2020 XLR ^USB ^version ^exists ^too
  • Behringer Q502USB 5-Channel Mixer
  • XLR Microphone Cable
  • Microphone Suspension Boom

    A few notes about these choices. The 5 channel mixer is total overkill but this one functions as a USB audio interface meaning when you plug it in to your PC it shows up like a USB mic would. Behringer makes a 3 port USB mixer but I don't like the way it looks lol.

    Not all mixers have the ability to function as a USB device. On NON USB mixers you would have to run the output of the mixer into the input on your soundcard on your PC.

    I prefer the audio device approach. You plug your XLR mic into the mixer which is acting as the USB audio device. This allows you to control on the mixer what the computer hears on the audio device interface.

    Totally a long and involved answer but some might find it useful if in the market for audio upgrades :Þ
u/bass-lick_instinct · 7 pointsr/Bass

The best way to get some great recordings without breaking the bank is to grab a recording interface like this. There are a ton of options on the market, but this is known to be a good quality interface.

Next you'll need a DAW (Digital Audio Workstation). This is basically a digital recording studio and they range from simple (like Garage Band) to professional quality like Logic Pro X or ProTools. At the core they all basically do the same thing. You record tracks to create a mix and you make adjustments to these tracks so they sound good together. For example, you don't want everything going 'up the middle', some sounds you want panned toward the left, some toward the right, some in the center, etc. You'll also adjust the volume of each track individually so everything sounds cohesive.

Higher-end DAWs allow you much more power and flexibility. They will allow you to do things like compress audio signals, apply complex EQing techniques, perform automation (real-time knob turning, basically), route signals between tracks, apply various effects, many are bundled with a bunch of software instruments, and MUCH more, but don't let it all daunt you right now. Some of my favorite mixes I've done are very simple where I did nothing more than adjust the tracks' volume/panning and did some simple EQing.

Most recording interfaces come with a basic DAW. The interface linked above comes with Ableton Live, but you can use any DAW you want. Reaper is a popular choice for Windows users on a budget. It has a free trial that never cripples the software (you just get the occasional nag screen), but if you like it you should support the devs and pay the $60, it's a very powerful DAW for the price.

*One awesome resource is the recording revolution YouTube channel. I'm not affiliated in any way, I just find this channel to be tremendously helpful. There are a ton of videos for all skill levels.

u/psililisp · 7 pointsr/Guitar

I got this little plug-in amp thingy that my headphones plug directly into when I want to play on my electric on the couch while my wife watches tv. It's nothing special or fancy, yet highly portable and discrete.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00NAUHX1G/

u/TheDevitalizer · 7 pointsr/Android

I like your style. Where there isn't any shortage of tech reviews, I like how you're doing it (fresh).

If you're going to continue (do it!) I'd invest in some of these. They'll absorb some of the echo, making the audio less tinny as well.

u/BVladimirHarkonnen · 7 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

I'd look into the JBL 3XXMkII line.

Powered Monitors, I have the 306P and I love them. Good bit of customization for rooms too on the back.

https://www.amazon.com/JBL-305PMKII-Powered-Studio-Monitor/dp/B077N2GQXC

You can connect to the XLR with something like this: https://www.amazon.com/TISINO-Stereo-Breakout-Double-Cords/dp/B07K58FTR8/

Also can add an budget Dac as an in-between (That's what I use)

Edit: Also a set of foam isolation pads to throw under them, bunch of options on amazon.

u/SecretCabalJamie · 7 pointsr/boardgames
u/SaaiTV · 6 pointsr/Twitch

If you want to cancel everything out then you should definitely go with a dynamic microphone. It's the kind of mic that they use when giving interviews on convention floors and stuff like that.

I recommend either the AT2005 or ATR2100. One of those paired with a scissor arm and a pop filter and you're all set :)

u/atx78701 · 6 pointsr/Austin

you dont need a machine. You can get the karafun app for $6 for 2 days.

then you just need microphones/mixer that you can plug into your stereo.

​

I got this mixer

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BG2S6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

This microphone set. There are lots with a single mic that will be cheaper.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0749L15PF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

For the above you will need the following cables:

You will need a 1/4" audio to headphone jack cable to go between the microphone receiver and mixer

an RCA to headphone jack to go from a computer/ipad running karafun

RCA cable to go from mixer to your audio (directly to TV or to stereo)

HDMI or other cable to go from your ipad/computer to the TV

u/gabmartini · 6 pointsr/argentina

Hola!

Arranqué el proyecto Economista del medio el año pasado como una forma de llevar el laburo de analista de consultoría macroeconómica a un espectro de población más amplio, lo cual implica menos jerga y biribiri financiero. Este año se sumó la periodista de Infobae Jorgelina Do Rosario y empezamos a cambiar el formato del programa: hemos ordenado los temas y sumamos las entrevistas que le dan un valor agregado enorme al oyente. Estamos muy contentos con el resultado hasta ahora, tanto en calidad del material como en escuchas.

De la misma manera que como mejoró el material también mejoró el hardware con el cual grabamos. En su momento empecé con un mixer Behringer Xenyx 1202FX, un micrófono Shure SM58, unos auriculares Audio Technica M40x y una Zoom H4n. Luego de mi viaje a Japón me traje micrófono un Audio Technica 4040 (large diaphragm condenser) y ahí terminó el avance en hardware en 2016. En términos de software editaba (y sigo editando) el archivo crudo con el Logic Pro X de Apple.

Este año invertimos y nos trajimos (via Amazon Europa) un mixer Allen & Heath Zed60 10fx y un segundo micrófono Audio Technica pero el AT875r (un shotgun cortito condenser que es una maravilla). De backup tenemos dos micrófonos Audio Technica 2100 (los que son USB/XLR) que en relación precio/calidad son muy recomendados para los podcasters amateurs. En resumen, nuestro lineup de materiales es de primera calidad y para explotarlo al máximo, estamos intentando mejorar el tratamiento acústico del área donde grabamos para minimizar ruidos indeseados.

Como te decía, estamos muy contentos con las escuchas (en número general y en público en particular, es decir, los quienes). Hemos recibido comentarios de gente que nos sorprendió y eso nos motiva. Todavía no es LA masividad en escuchas pero queremos estar acá invirtiendo en esto para que cuando explote el podcasting en Argentina (porque va a pasar, que no te quepa la menor duda) tener una buena base y experiencia para seguir proyectándonos.

Lo lindo es que se están acercando algunos sponsors interesados en el material asi que significa que hay proyección a futuro. La verdad que al día de hoy estamos muy a gusto y cómodos laburando en el proyecto, que es para nosotros ahora lo más importante.

Por otro lado, una de las cosas más copadas que me pasó es poder grabar con una persona que conozco y confío de hace muchos años. Al principio hacerlo solo era más un desahogo pero laburar con alguien en esto, que aparte sabe y se mueve en el medio, tiene algo muy especial y divertido. Ese es un item que taché de mi lista de pendientes.

En materia de proyección a futuro y ToDos, creo que seguir mejorando y buscando calidad para ofrecer el mejor producto disponible en el mercado. En materia de hardware todavía tengo la espinita clavada por el Shure SM7b con su respectivo Cloudlifter pero por ahora estamos muy contentos con el equipo con el cual grabamos.

Saludos!

u/d_troy · 6 pointsr/audio

Scarlett is known for making pretty good mic pre-amps for a reasonable price. I've used their 2i2 interface before, but the solo would solve your needs as well: http://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Solo-Compact-Interface/dp/B00MTXU2DG

u/8strings_1plectrum · 6 pointsr/classicalmusic

Hardware/software wise it’s pretty simple. If you have a semi decent computer you can find free audio software. You’ll just need to purchase a microphone that connects to you computer via USB and download something like Audacity to get started.

If you want an easier solution you could go with a a multitrack recorder like the Zoom R8 or this zoom portable recorder The ZoomR8 is nice because you can do all your work directly on it, or do as I do and recordson it, pull out the SD card and import what you’ve recorded into your computer for mixing and adding any effects that you may want to do. It’s a great way to learn in my opinion and the one I recommend.

If your computer has a built in microphone, you can probably skip buying a mic and just download the software record like that.

If you try Audacity and don’t like it, just google free recording software there are a few options out there. Also, if you have a Mac if any sort, you can always use GarageBand since it comes with you Mac. You may or may not need a USB microphone for it. I’m not sure, I don’t use it

Oh and go to your local library. They should have some books on getting started with multi track recording at home.

Hope that helps!

Cheers

u/gutie5 · 5 pointsr/musicproduction

This is the one I use and it works really well, would definitely recommend for a first audio interface. BEHRINGER U-PHORIA UMC202HD, 2-Channel ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QHURUBE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_v0wkDbXTEJ1G7

u/Skerivo · 5 pointsr/audiodrama

Amazon is your best bet. I bought mine here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TP7C9YY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PtzwDb9S23MJN
Even though 2 packs don't fully cover my walls, they do fine in my rather spacious make-shift walk-in closet booth. There is no echo unless I'm at the other end of the closet and yelling.

Be warned, foam boards are NOT sound proofing, they ABSORB sound. Most people don't realize this, so before you spend money don't think that this will solve those pesky outside sounds. If you do want sound proofing you need special walls, but that is too pricey for most people.

Anyway,s good luck.

u/A1572A · 5 pointsr/whatisthisthing

Just as I posted this I remember there is sterio microphones that have similar looking mic, I can't find the model your mics are for but I'm fairly sure that's what there for. Here is a example

https://www.amazon.com/Zoom-H4N-Digital-Multitrack-Recorder/dp/B01DPOXS8I

u/PlataBear · 5 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Put this in the case. It'll help dampen by a lot.

u/papyrusinthewild · 5 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

"Build log" (mostly pictures) is in the imgur album.

This started off as a stock WASD V2 with Cherry MX Clear switches. I bought a 55g uniform RealForce not long after, and that has been my daily driver pretty much ever since. I actually thought I might just sell the WASD for whatever I could get for it.

I decided instead to go for the ergo clear mod, which sounds absolutely fantastic on the videos I've seen here, here, and others on YouTube. I also decided that while I had the case all apart I would add dampening foam to it and paint it to go with the SA carbon I just received.

Paint and clear coat for the case were from the local hardware store. I found the dampening foam on Amazon. I also picked up a Hakko tip cleaner and Engineer solder sucker from Amazon. The 62g gold springs and lubes are from Mehkee. They were out of their kits, but the lubes that are in the kit are all sold separately on their site, so no problemo.

The whole thing took about a week, give or take, and it was very tedious, to say the least. But the outcome has been simply spectacular. The ergo clears are so buttery smooth, and they sound awesome with SA doubleshot caps. I think the case color came out great. The WASD is now feeling a whole lot more premium!

Edit: this video was super helpful for the case painting.

Edit: here is the “before” post - https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/76s7rx/is_it_worth_it_to_do_the_ergo_clear_mod_on_a_wasd/?st=JFBLDQYL&sh=a9f5b0f2

u/djriful · 5 pointsr/pcmasterrace

That OP post is over excessive use of those foam and they are not meant for PC.

The proper sound dampening are to reduce noise from the panel which creates from vibration of hardwares. The side panel in fact is one of the component emit the most noise like a speaker.

This is what I use: http://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-21-Inch-Dampening-Acoustic-SF01/dp/B0040JHMH6

Here an example: http://i.ytimg.com/vi/c9U_x8hRwU4/maxresdefault.jpg

u/Distracted_Limb · 5 pointsr/Rockband
u/BeardedAlbatross · 5 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Adding to this, if his source is a PC then pick up This, a pair of TRS cables and you should be fine budget-wise.

u/fasterflame21 · 5 pointsr/FL_Studio

Best thing you can do for a guitar sound is get a guitar. I spent weeks trying to get a good guitar sound while using a keyboard, and the best thing you can do is get the real thing. You don't need anything fancy, but a Lexicon Alpha and a guitar with humbucker pickups will do wonders for you.

That being said, it all depends on your goal. What kind of music are you wanting this guitar sound for?

u/robot_break_dance · 5 pointsr/SexPositive

If it is just you recording I would suggest http://www.amazon.com/CAD-U1-Dynamic-Recording-Microphone/dp/B000ULQTE0 a USB microphone. You get better control of the audio. A pop filter helps too. Context, I think about doing my own videos and did research on what equipment I would use.

u/Coestar · 5 pointsr/coestar

I do use a headset, but not for recording anymore. The headset I use has great audio, it's a Logitech G35. I use a
CAD U1 USB mic when I record episodes. It's not a very good quality mic, but it's cheap.

u/HikariOni · 5 pointsr/Frozen

I got this one. I'll tell you if it's any good, it should be.

u/ctfrommn · 5 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Top options for sound quality under $300 wouldn't be any of those. Go with one of...

Adam T5V

Mackie MR524

JBL 305P


For me, in this order. All will sound world's better than the other options.

u/3wayhandshake · 5 pointsr/audiophile

These are really small and very popular.
http://www.amazon.com/Auralex-Monitor-Isolation-Speakers-Charcoal/dp/B0002D0B4K/ref=pd_cp_MI_2

The ideal/easiest material for this is foam.

u/ItsBigMAK · 5 pointsr/PS4

He'll also need a microphone. This one is decent.

u/dolbydog · 5 pointsr/audioengineering

Amazon hasn't deviated from $349 since 2011. I'd just buy it. http://camelcamelcamel.com/Shure-SM7B-Dynamic-Microphone-Cardioid/product/B0002E4Z8M

u/MMfuryroad · 5 pointsr/hometheater

Respectfully, it's a complete waste of time and money. You're better off using your B speaker setup like I use mine as a way to run a different type of speaker for different content not in an AB configuration. That can create its own issues.

Bi wiring / bi amping

McGurk effect video

Better things to do than bi- wiring and bi-amping speakers to improve your audio experience:

  1. Experiment with your speaker placements i.e. distance from boundaries, angle of speaker, distance from speaker and height of the tweeter lining up with your ear height at the MLP.


  2. Get fully familiar with your receivers room correction type and setup procedures. If there are 6 or 8 different mic positions available at setup use them and rerun the room correction anytime you change what's in the room, your seating position , the speakers themselves or the speakers positions in the room and invest in a boom mic stand and camera mount adapter to keep the audio mic away from reflection points and try to reduce your rooms noise floor as much as possible before running the correction i.e. AC system, ceiling fans , screaming kids or wife.😏

  3. Learn more about passive room treatments. You don't have to go crazy and there are several companies that offer free online modeling programs to determine the type and number of treatments your room might need at affordable prices. GIK Acoustics and ATS Acoustics are 2 good ones that spring to mind.

    ATS Acoustics online acoustic analyzer

    GIK Acoustics analyzer

  4. Use good quality cables and connectors. Again you don't have to go crazy but getting good affordable cabling and connectors usually helps eliminate or reduce many minor troubleshooting issues to something other than the connectors and cables. Again Blue Jeans Cable and Mediabridge comes to mind but there are others.

  5. Download the freeware program REW and just play with it a bit. You'll need a calibrated audio mic with an HDMI cable or stereo RCA connector to fulfill its full potential but there is a built in room modeling program that anyone with a sealed rectangular room can get some good benefits from using without a mic or cable and it gives you time to get more comfortable with what is a fully equipped acoustical software program and did I mention that it's free.?

    Room Equalization Wizard

    There's more. Like learn speaker specifications and what they mean with regards to efficiency and power requirements but these are the major things that came to my mind ahead of bi- anything.
u/nevermind4790 · 4 pointsr/vinyl

Yes, being a linear tracking turntable helps to minimize tracing error from start to finish of the LP. It's P-mount so the VTF is already set at 1.25 grams, which is enough to prevent mistracking.

They get a bad rap, but that's because overtime the rails that the tonearm glide across get gunked up and it stops working. Clean it up, relube it, and it will work fine. Also, there's a tiny belt that attaches to the motor and a wheel that allows the tonearm to move to the left. If it's loose, it won't function properly. If it's not loose and can perform its duty, then you're fine for now BUT you really ought to replace it.

The Audio Technica 6006 cartridge is an older model of the modern AT90/92E/311EP/3482 series of cartridges. They're all P-mount. The 6006 should be closest to the AT311EP since they both have an output of 5.0 mV and a .3 x .7 elliptical stylus. I use an AT3482P on my LT turntable and enjoy it very much. The AT92ECD is also nice, though IMO I prefer the AT3482P because it isn't as bright. You don't have to buy a new cartridge, but in this case it makes sense because 1) it's cheaper and 2) you will get a stylus protector with a new cartridge.

Before you go playing any records (I know, it's tempting), make sure to replace the cartridge/stylus and ensure that the tonearm is functioning properly. Linear tracking P-mount units can be a pain in the ass to get working, but once you do you will have a hassle free turntable.

u/TophatMcMonocle · 4 pointsr/vintageaudio

I'm glad to assist as I'm a fanboy of this type of Technics turntable. I have an old hobby of restoring and collecting Japanese TTs and there's an SL-10 in my collection. I'd love to have an SL-7 too, however I'm falling behind in the "restore" area the last few years.

You will need a phono preamp since the SL-7 does not have one built in, and neither do your Miccas. The sky's the limit on phono preamp prices, however they're a rather simple beast so even the cheapest ones work pretty damned well. To keep things simple for now I'd recommend this one for sixteen bucks.

https://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PP999-Phono-Turntable-Pre-Amp/dp/B00025742A

Assuming the SL-7 is good to go and has a cartridge/stylus with some life left in it, that'll be all you need to make music. Your Miccas have amplification built in, so that's it.

If you do need a new P-mount cartridge, this one is very good for the $27 it costs. It's what I have on my SL-10 because I can't afford high-end carts on everything. Be aware there's a small screw that holds it in place on that little tonearm and it must be completely removed first. It's hard to see, so people have ripped off the entire arm trying to pull the cartridge free.

https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT92ECD-Universal-Replacement-Cartridge/dp/B00006HO3L

Last thing I should mention, there are two plastic ears on the SL-7 that are a failure point, since all examples of this turntable are very old now. They latch the lid to the lower portion, or plinth. Treat them very gently as there are no replacements for them.

u/raistlin65 · 4 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Dayton Audio SUB1000 is a great budget sub for the money. You would use the inline speaker connections to connect it to your receiver.

Probably help to pull your speakers forward an inch or two so that the drivers are not reflecting off the sides of the hutch on your desk. That would also give the rear ports just a little more room to breathe. And if the tweeters are aimed at your chest, a speaker pad that helps to angle them up towards your ears would probably help https://www.amazon.com/Auralex-Acoustics-Monitor-Isolation-MOPAD/dp/B0002D0B4K/

u/hdawg19 · 4 pointsr/battlestations

Check these out! They're really good for speakers sitting straight on the desk

u/Ladybonerthrow86 · 4 pointsr/GWABackstage

So for recording with my Samsung Note 5, I use the voice recorder app already on there. I've never had an issue with it. I use the Stony Edge Lapel Mic, which just plugs into your headphone jack for anything with the phone now. Haven't done a commute ramble with it yet, but I will.

For other recording purposes, I use a Blue Yeti Blackout Edition, and have a Blue Microphones Snowball USB Microphone, Cardioid Mode(Gloss Black) for mobile use (i.e. traveling). I have a generic pop filter I picked up at a music store, and a DR Pro Tripod Mic Stand with Telescoping Boom for streaming and recording at home.

The Yeti is a pretty popular mid-price mic for GWA peeps. Snowball is a GREAT starter mic though. My dream mic is a toss up between the Shure SM7B and the AT2035 (both please?)

For desktop recording/editing, a lot of people use Audacity, which is what I started with. I now use Reaper Pro to record, and Izotope RX6 for editing.

Disclaimer: None of these Amazon links are referral links, and I earn no money from them

u/sexyfail · 4 pointsr/ableton

I had good experiences with my Lexicon Alpha unit.

u/tek_fox212800 · 4 pointsr/FL_Studio

Happy Cake Day duder! Here are my suggestions!

Under 100$

[Lexicon Alpha](http://www.amazon.com/Lexicon-Alpha-Desktop-Recording-Studio/dp/B000HVXMNE/ref=sr_1_1?
ie=UTF8&qid=1412270622&sr=8-1&keywords=lexicon+alpha)

Scarlett Solo

Tascam US-32

Over 100

Scarlett 2i2

M Audio M Track Plus

Steinberg UR22


Personally, I use the UR22, mainly because I need the Midi in/out for my outboard synths, and the d-pre amps are quite nice for basic mics. I work for a music shop, and our best seller is the UR22. However, any of these interfaces would work well with FL Studio, and you would not be displeased with any of them. Let me know which one you get, dude! Cheers!

Ninja Edit - Stay away from Behringer, Gemsound, Pyle, and Pyramid. They are low cost, but have poor quality builds, poor converters, latency issues, and a myriad of other problems. Also, if you need multiple inputs and mixing capabilities down the line, I suggest these;

http://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-MG10XU-10-Input-Stereo-Mixer/dp/B00IBIVL42/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412271070&sr=8-1&keywords=yamaha+mixer

http://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-Audiogram-6-audio-interface/dp/B001F1WNAS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412271058&sr=8-1&keywords=yamaha+interface


u/Toastbiscuit · 4 pointsr/audioengineering

First thing... Never remove a ground from a power adapter. You're removing the ground from the wrong place and it can be dangerous.

Something like this can help / fix the issue completely: https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-HD400-BEHRINGER-MICROHD/dp/B000KUD2G4

It's basically a line level isolator. It sits between your soundcard and monitors and isolates using transformers. It ensures that there is no direct contact between signal lines as it only transfers the signal via the transformer, one for each channel (left and right).

There are a few models of this sort of thing out there but the Behringer is good value and performs well. I've had one in between my computer and monitor and casual A/B tests show that is doesn't affect the sound in any perceptible way.

If you don't trust Behringer, google "transformer isolated line level signal" for more boxes that do this.

Lifting your grounds on your power will get rid of your hums, sure, but it also gets rid of the safety function that grounding pins play, which is in the event of failure of your device, the power flows away safely.

u/Spacktardius · 4 pointsr/wow

This is basically like coil whine. I had this with WoW and KRK's too! Basically just electrical interference from your graphics card being picked up by your KRK's - you'll notice the buzzing changes as your framerate changes. I fixed mine with one of these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Behringer-MICROHD-Hum-Destroyer-HD400/dp/B000KUD2G4/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=passive+hum+destroyer&qid=1562644272&s=gateway&sr=8-3

u/Talha215 · 4 pointsr/techsupport

Yes, and while it’s really really cheap, I find the quality to be surprisingly good when on a stand and the mic is very close to your face.

Here’s the mic I bought.

Here’s the stand I bought

Here’s a link to my voice in a YouTube video I uploaded

Not a great YouTube clip lol but it’s quiet and clear and that all I need for YouTube uploads and discord.

u/justjbc · 4 pointsr/Filmmakers

Buy a cheap lav mic and line it into a Zoom H1 hidden on the subject. Hit record at the beginning of each take, then ask the subject to clap once. Use 1/8" cable extensions for your headphones if you'll be monitoring more than a few feet away.

EDIT: Clap, assuming you don't have a slate. Also you can use cable extensions for the lav instead...however I find this isn't always reliable for some reason.

u/krtr · 4 pointsr/Guitar

It's a bit more but I'm finding my Scarlett Solo does the job.

u/mellovibes75 · 4 pointsr/battlestations

Not OP but I can help you out here. Let's break this down by component:

  1. Speakers - There are two types: active and passive. Active = amplifier built into each speaker (i.e. most dedicated "computer" speakers from the likes of Logitech, Creative, etc.). Passive = 90% of speakers out there, must be connected to an amplifier to work. Typically passive speakers will get you a better speaker for a given price for an active but you have to figure in the cost of an amplifier. For a passive speaker set up, the cheapest system recommended over at /r/audiophile is a SMSL SA-60 amp and Micca MB42X Bookshelf Speakers. If your budget is higher, ask in the daily purchase advice sticky there (read the rules/suggestions thoroughly). I don't mess around with active speakers so I can't recommend any.

  2. Microphone - For simplicity's sake, I will recommend you look into USB connecting condenser microphones as they are affordable and have good sensitivity. Something like the Audio-Technica AT-2020 or Blue Yeti are popular mics for under $100. I have the Yeti and can attest that it is a very good and sensitive multi pattern mic. They can be hooked directly up to your PC or if you want to get really fancy, check out an audio interface like the Focusrite Scarlett Solo or Scarlett 2i2. The nice thing about an interface is it allows you get a nice mic with an XLR connector (generally better than a USB connection) and it will work with your PC.

  3. Headphones - Don't waste your money on "gaming" headphones. A nice 2 channel pair of cans with a standalone mic like I listed above will hands down outperform the likes of Turtle Beach and Razr headsets. /r/headphones has a really good wiki with more info than I can provide here and headphones broken down by price range and characteristics. Plus, then you can use them both for gaming and general music listening and have a good experience, something you don't get with dedicated "gaming" headsets. The amp I listed in the speakers section is fine for headphones but Schiit makes absolutely fantastic headphone amps and DAC (digital to analog converters, check out both /r/audiophile and /r/headphones for more info on them and why they are good for your set up) with very respectable price tags.

    Hope this helps. Higher quality audio equipment can be confusing and daunting, what with all the technical details, wide price ranges, parsing through all the marketing bullshit and the sometimes snobby attitudes of some "audiophiles". I wish you luck and feel free to ask me if you have any questions.
u/pigz · 4 pointsr/Guitar

>don't see a guitar input


There's a 1/4" mono input in the centre of the XLR.


That behringer unit is prettly limited, especially getting the audio back out of the PC to your monitors. Line OR USB, instead of line and USB.


In your price range, better choices would be M-Audio MTrack Plus, or MTrack 2, Focusrite Scarlett or Presonus Audiobox


They all come with some form of 'Lite' DAW software as well.

u/jodonnell89 · 4 pointsr/gatech

Worth the 45 bucks, also sounds pretty damn good for what it is:

Vox AC30 Headphone Amp

Marshall 1 Watt mini stack

Orange Crush mini 3w amp

u/YaBoyNazeem · 4 pointsr/podcasting

One problem is that mixer doesn't have two XLR input channels. Most mixers or interfaces that are used with multiple mics have multiple XLR inputs. That Mixer does have line in inputs though. So I think you would need to either get a new mixer OR try to use something like this.... https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-YMP-434-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B0010D0HO0/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=1%2F4+stereo+to+female+3.5mm&qid=1556022969&s=musical-instruments&sr=1-3

​

I don't know how well that would work because I have never done it but it's worth a try if you're strapped for cash.

​

This can connect your 3.5mm input from your Toner mic in to your Line in 2/3 input on your board.

​

An example of an interface with two XLR inputs is this:

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UMC202HD-BEHRINGER-U-PHORIA-2-Channel/dp/B00QHURUBE/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3OV6SCTD4YARR&keywords=behringer+umc202hd&qid=1556023240&s=gateway&sprefix=behringer+u%2Caps%2C156&sr=8-3

​

A mixer with two interfaces is this:

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Q802USB-BEHRINGER-XENYX/dp/B008O517IC/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=behringer+xynex&qid=1556023157&s=gateway&sr=8-6

u/tehFeetus · 4 pointsr/Twitch

I'm glad to see that you are researching it out and spending some time thinking about it. That's the right first step! I don't have experience with other mics to speak of, but I'm pretty happy with my purchases and what I'm able to do with them. So, some more food for thought:

u/TheSocialSolipsist · 4 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Check out the suggested product list


Personally, I would go for these, which are not on the list and just recently entered the market and include all the cables and whatnot you will need - no additional purchases. THAT SAID, caveat emptor:

  • Mackie usually makes really good equipment, but every company occasionally makes something that goes bad with time. It has excellent reviews now, but that may wane with time.
  • Flat response. Your music will probably sound "Bad" to you at first because these are not calibrated like other speakers
  • Bass is not going to be massive. It will be more than enough for most computer desks, but if you want really loud bass, you are both in the wrong subreddit, and have the wrong budget. That said, coming from your previous speakers, these will be much better.


    If this fiddling and whatnot sounds like something you're not up for, or not the kind of performance you want from your equipment, you probably need to get a set of bookshelf speakers, a sub, and an amp as per the suggested product list, which will likely cost more for a decent set ($200-$400.)
u/zedos · 4 pointsr/battlestations
u/blacklabel8829 · 4 pointsr/podcasts

I love my Zoom H4N Pro portable recorder. If you have the money for it you could go with the H5 or H6.

u/platochronic · 3 pointsr/Songwriters

Do you have a smartphone with a voice recorder? That’s all I use and it’s remarkable how well these sound considering their general availability. I usually put the phone behind the body of my acoustic to balance the sound with my voice.

That’s about as good as you can get with a low budget. Most “budget equipment” out there that’s designed for this purpose is not going to be significantly better that it’s really worth shelling out money, unless you really want a step up, which obviously costs more.

If you want to overlay tracks, there’s apps for that too depending on what kind of phone you got, but usually I’m going for a natural real live sound, so I generally record my voice and guitar together on one take.

If you have a couple hundred dollars to spend, I’d recommend an “h4n pro”. It’s got amazing sound for the price, does multi-track recording, it’s a good room mic for a band practice and it has some onboard effects that are very cool to use if you do it right. I can’t really recommend it enough considering the bang you get for your buck. We’ve broken our a couple times over the years and I always seem to keep coming back to it.

Everyone else has mention audacity, but that’s what I’ve been using for years and still do. Find some cool plug-ins and you can really do a lot with very little or no money down.

u/provideocreator · 3 pointsr/videography

With the Rebel T6, there is no way to connect a microphone, regardless of whether it is wired or wireless. What you can do is use something like an external audio recorder. If you just want to use the audio recorder with its own microphone or with a 3.5mm microphone input, you can get a Zoom H1. If you also require the use of an XLR microphone, you would need a Zoom H4n. Both of these devices can be used with or without an external microphone (they have built in microphones that are better than the camera's). But, you WILL have to sync the audio in POST. The audio will be recorded completely separate from the camera and there is absolutely no way to connect them while recording, but it's easy to do in editing software after.

u/Pyroraptor · 3 pointsr/letsplay

My suggestion would be to get an XLR setup. They are much more customizable, upgradable, and have much better quality than a USB setup. For $167 you should be able to get a Focusrite Solo or a Behringer Q802USB and an ATR2100 or an ATR2500.

u/vanguard_anon · 3 pointsr/PKA

Well, I like your list. I don't know that Rode mic in particular but Lefty had two different Rode mics during PKA and they both sounded great.

I'd personally point you toward the RE20. I love mine and you don't have to be right on top of it to sound great. I also love my Shure SM7B but more than one person has mentioned to me that they can hear me breathe so I'm either going to switch back to the giant foam pop filter or to the RE20.

This package is $500 but it comes with the mic, shock mount, cable, boom, etc. http://www.amazon.com/Electro-Voice-Microphone-Shockmount-Two-Section-Broadcast/dp/B00U1S4YY4/ref=sr_1_2?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1457378551&sr=1-2&keywords=re20

I don't like your audio interface. In particular it's analog and in my experience if you turn up the gain on an analog mixer you get a hiss. It's not a subtle hiss you think you hear either, it's a real problem. (Or maybe the one I had was just extra bad?)

Anything in the scarlet focusrite series will do, this one is $100: http://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Solo-Compact-Interface/dp/B00MTXU2DG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1457378874&sr=8-3&keywords=focusrite

For $150 you can get two inputs: http://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-2i2-USB-Recording-Interface/dp/B005OZE9SA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457378874&sr=8-1&keywords=focusrite

Let me know how to sound wedges do. I typically just count on curtains, shag carpet, oil painting and furniture to break up the sound.

u/Aksen · 3 pointsr/gamingpc

> The Razer Seiren features a versatile multi-pattern USB digital connection capable of four different recording pattern configurations with three custom-tuned 14 mm condenser capsules. This makes the Razer Seiren digital microphone ideal for the needs of professional musicians

Yeah... no. Not without an XLR jack. Microphone preamps are as important (some say more important) than the mic itself.

These USB microphones are fine for streamers, but not at this price. Think about it, this is what you are getting:

    1. Small microphone capsules (3)
    1. Microphone preamp
    1. Analog to digital converter
    1. Microphone preamp

      Between say, $60 and $200, you really wont see "studio quality," for "professional musicians."

      Besides that, condenser mics would not be my first advice for streaming. They excel at picking up transients and room noise (clicky keyboards, anyone?) and will sound horrendous when they clip. If you want to step up your gear, buy a Focusrite Scarlett Solo and a Shure sm57 for a bit more money. Or if you really want a condenser, you can get an MXL 770. If you truly want broadcast quality, get a Shure sm7.

      My friend has a yeti, it's fine, i have heard streamers with the Blue snowball mic, yeah it sounds fine. But don't charge $180 and call it studio grade. It's like HP passing off a $300 prebuilt desktop as a gaming machine.

      EDIT: Or a great option is the Sennheiser broadcast mics. The HMD280 is an HD280 with a mic slapped on it, and this is stepping into the realm of actual broadcast-quality gear. It will sound awesome, will pick nothing up but your voice, will not clip, and hey you get a $100 pair of headphones to boot. You'll still need the preamp though.
u/terriblesounds · 3 pointsr/synthesizers

Definitely understand being new to the game, took me a while to figure out what I needed for live use.

Here's my 2 cents:

u/edocentric · 3 pointsr/recordthis

It really depends on how much you want to spend and what you're planning to do with your setup.

I personally use a Rode NT2-A with a Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 interface (or you could get the Solo and save 50 bucks, but I needed two input ports) and I am pretty satisfied with my setup - I've been using both of them for a whole bunch of paid audiobooks I've done over the years, so they've paid for themselves many times over.

I started out with a Blue Yeti myself, but I decided to change it as soon as I started getting more work. It's not a bad mic, but it's not stellar. When it comes to cheaper USB mics though I'd recommend the Rode NT-USB - my NT2-A broke down over the summer and I was supposed to be recording an audiobook, so I needed a decent replacement until my main mic got repaired. It's slightly more expensive than a Blue Yeti (goes for around $170, while the Yeti is around $100), but I think it's a better quality mic. I still keep my NT-USB at home to use for smaller work that doesn't require going to the studio.

u/antman47 · 3 pointsr/guitars

I bought one of these Vox Amplug AC30 units. It's actually pretty nice, and effective at keeping the noise down.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NAUHX1G/ref=sr_ph?ie=UTF8&qid=1463535705&sr=1&keywords=vox+amplug

u/videoscott · 3 pointsr/telecaster

It seems like the fear of "performing" in public is really going to be a stumbling block for you to do what's most important, and that's to concentrate on feeling the guitar in your hands while playing. As others have said, the difference in pickups will be minimal in your price range, and at your level. So, get a portable headphone amplifier. Vox makes a range of them for about $40 each. Or, you could get a similar knockoff at Monoprice for as little as $8. Or, for that same $40, you could get yourself an iRig2, use your phone as a portable stompbox, and almost certainly get better quality than either of the above, with multiple amp models and effects in software. The advantages are several, as you can now feel comfortable jamming away at full volume (to you), while no one more than 6 feet away has a clue what you're playing. Bring your own short patch cable and picks, and there's no waiting for a salesman to plugin to an amp for you, then hover nearby whilst you noodle, making you nervous. You can now feel confident in saying "I've got a portable rig I'm going to plug into, thanks". Even pro-level musicians might have a phone or tablet rig they use to sketch up ideas, or when traveling. Feel free to look annoyed if you have to remove your headphones/earbuds, and/or ask for time to yourself. Then, go off into your own little world, play the heck out of those girls, and fall in love. You'll know the right one when you meet her. Or feel her up for the first time. Getting creepy now - better stop.

u/collinisballn · 3 pointsr/Guitar

I have the VOX headphone amp that I use with my Traveler Electric. Headphones, amp and tuner fit right into the guitar bag. The setup is great for travel. I can play on trains, in airports, in cars, anywhere. The guitar is loud enough that I can't play in, say, a library or on a plane, but anywhere with a little background noise no one gets bothered.

The headphone amp does its job well. Doesn't sound anything like my home setup, but it delivers some good sustain and even reverb and makes practicing on the go useful.

u/metalsatch · 3 pointsr/Guitar

Well depends how crazy or simple you wanna get. You have a ton of options.

You can do decent practice amp with headphones out

Multi effects pedal with amp and cab sim

Audio interface but then you need software, mess with plug ins, drivers and output. Like you mentioned before PC speakers should be ok for practice.

And if you want super simple, they sell this little adapters that connect to your guitar that have built in effects and are for headphone use.
VOX AP2AC amPlug 2 AC30 Guitar/Bass Headphone Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NAUHX1G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yvH5Cb2SHFAB0

My younger brother got one and it’s not amazing sounding but pretty decent for what it is. They have various models. But this would be more of something extra for quick and easy practice and not really for a main or serious practice. Unless someone has more experience with them. I only played with one briefly.

u/Ayyyo_river · 3 pointsr/Guitar

Vox makes adapters that plug into your guitar, then you can plug headphones into them. My girlfriend uses the Bass version as to not disturb her roommates and loves it. No amp needed .

VOX AP2AC amPlug AC30 G2 Guitar Headphone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NAUHX1G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_F43dBbGRT3KT7

u/blackking023 · 3 pointsr/Reaper

So as another 29yo musician figuring out reaper over the past few weeks. Definitely watch tutorials, how to's, and basic use videos from youtube and stuff posted here. You'll learn way more from doing that faster than you will from poking around. Most of the time i just google something like "Reddit Render Midi track in reaper" and i'll get a link to this sub with a video.

Definitely get an audio interface, i'll help tremendously with overall sound and latency. I think something with two channels will work well for you. You'll most likely only be recording one instrument at a time if you're doing this solo but the option of the second channel will let you record an acoustic performance if you ever want to. I have no brand loyalty so here's a few options, you can do research on them as you see fit or search some out yourself:

UMC202HD , Scarlett 2i2 , AudioBox USB 2x2

Or if you need to be more budget friendly, this guy is a great bang for you buck, however it is only one channel:

Behringer UM2

If you dont have any 1/4" headphones, pick up a 1/4" male to 3.5mm female adapter as well so you can monitor your sound and for playback through the interface. You can find these at bestbuy or somewhere local pretty easily.

You'll want to look at some 3rd party VSTs for effects instead of your phone. I'm currently in the process of trying different free things out, so i don't have too many suggestions unfortunately, but maybe some other people can chime in with their favorites. I'd watch youtube tutorials to learn how to setup and use these. two I could recommend so far are:

MT Power Drumkit 2 - Simple drum VST that allows you to pick from a select of beats in different styles, then once you import them into reaper you can change the beat with the MIDI editor as you see fit. Watch some youtube tutorials on it to get going using it.

AmpliTube Custom Shop - Comes with a few amp, cab, and effect options that should get you going with some guitar sounds. You can also get the demo version of AmpliTube Full and it will run for 30 min, then you have to close and reopen it for it to work again (seems to be a common setup for demo versions of VSTs), but you can get a good bit in 30min if you know what you want going in.

u/randomdoohickey · 3 pointsr/Twitch

The Cloudlifter would be a complete waste of money here and many people use them where they aren't needed.

The bad news here is that Behringer's classic mixers are just plain garbage. End of story. Good for seeing how high it will bounce when being thrown off the roof of a building though.

I would go so far as to say you shouldn't even look at mixers at all unless you're playing an instrument like a guitar in addition to using the mic. You mix where your sources are, so on a gaming PC you need to mix in software on the PC, not in some external box that you need to setup loopback on. The type of software mixer you're looking for is Voicemeeter.

Behringer's "HD" audio interfaces, however, are pretty decent on the cheap. I just wouldn't touch anything less than the $60 UMC202HD though.

At the end of the day, a 2-input/2-output USB audio interface like the Behringer UMC202HD is all you need. I wouldn't bother with an external hardware mixer at all. It's just not needed. If you want to spend a bit more on a nicer interface, Tascam, Roland, and Zoom are worth looking at. Just don't buy Focusrite Scarlett as their Windows 10 drivers are straight-up broken and won't be fixed any time soon.

Get a decent mic arm like the On Stage MBS5000, plug one end of the XLR cable into the SM58, then the other end into your audio interface, e.g. UMC202HD. Plug your speakers and headphone into the interface. Done. That's all you need. You don't even need a foam ball as a vocal dynamic like that SM58 has a built-in pop filter foam behind it's screw-on head. You can stop using your motherboard's onboard audio entirely too. Maybe do an isolation mic clip if you're feeling fancy.

Remember you need a mic arm as putting your mic on the desk is too far away from your mouth and the mic will pick up more keyboard, mouse, and room noise than it will of your voice.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BWM5E8C

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002ZO60I

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QHURUBE

Some adapters you might need, maybe, depending on how your PC speakers are setup:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010D0HO0

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O3S

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O18

u/ilrasso · 3 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

this behringer umc202hd might be just what u need. You can setup how what you want to monitor, so having both the mic recording and the playback in the headphones while recording only the mic audio is no problemo. Consider using the recording software called Reaper. It is cheap/free and very nice.

u/darkworldaudio · 3 pointsr/FL_Studio

Well this interface is really highly rated, exceptional quality for the price and this DI box was standard use back in uni. Hope that helps get you started anyways.

u/SpongeBobNudiePants · 3 pointsr/Twitch

I'm actually more of a fan of the 5 mic idea rather than one condenser, for the reasons that /u/carlmmii outlined below. I'm also going to second the idea that running the mixer via Line In, while it may work, isn't the best way to go about doing it. It will work, but the chances of having unintended audio issues (hum, etc) are increased. Instead, I would recommend pushing the mixer budget a little bit to get one with a dedicated USB audio out, or running the mixer L/R outputs into something like this.

​

As far as good mics in the $50 range, I'd go with Shure PG48s. They're cheap, sound decent, and Shure has a reputation of being incredibly tough. Regardless of which mic you pick, I'd recommend dynamic over condenser to cut down on the amount of vocal bleed (i.e. the voice of Player 1 getting picked up in Player 2's mic) and overall reduction in table noise/dice dropping/etc.

u/spankymustard · 3 pointsr/podcasting

Here's my recommendation for a podcast starter kit:


u/ShiftyAsylum · 3 pointsr/unixporn
u/aloehart · 3 pointsr/pcgaming

You'll want to insulate. Heat isn't really an issue so much as the extreme cold, condensation, and humidity.

Here is something you might try. It's 12 pieces of 1'x1' sound proof foam padding. It's not full insulation but it might do the job and it has the added benefit of making the room quieter.

u/djbrunswick · 3 pointsr/homelab

12 Pack Acoustic Panels Studio Foam Wedges 1" X 12" X 12" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TP7C9YY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_t7zuybZD3PNBA

I'm currently looking at this for sound proofing material for my server area.

u/trantaran · 3 pointsr/taiwan

I don't mind noisy if I can get away from it, I just mind if I can't get away from it. I'm terrified of more tinnitus or hearing damage. Yes I was using earplugs and it was still loud. Firecrackers/guns (120db+) are one of the loudest/dangerous things you can do. I was 4 floors up with windows closed, so I can't even imagine the amount of hearing damage people below and closer would have gotten. I think it's stupid and inconsiderate to babies, kids, and young people who don't know any better, but I've already learned from past experiences that society isn't educated or doesn't care enough to take hearing as seriously as eyesight. I'm a minority.

Can you give me a location of where I can do/buy custom molded ear plugs/window noise blocking material in Taipei?

Where in Taipei is it quieter, as Taipower Building Station area is supposed to be quietest. I was thinking of moving near Tonghua Nightmarket xinyianhe or a place many floors high, does it have firecrackers and parade events too?

I will buy these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TP7C9YY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A22SRM5AZO37HA
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IHUNLT2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1O44Z2C3OZAM9

side question: if I order a bunch of stuff off of USA Amazon, will they call me when the package comes and leave try again if no one picks up the phone? I had a box shipped to me before, and it ended up on top of my neighbor's mailbox without me knowing.

Anyone tried complaining?: http://www.taiwanho.com/talk/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=3198

u/LieutenantSheridan · 3 pointsr/battlestations

That chair tho. I like how sharp looking everything is. Also, if you are planning on recording videos or sounding very clear to your friends, I would suggest getting some echo cancelation sound panels. Like these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00TP7C9YY/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1503332811&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Sound+panels&dpPl=1&dpID=51ozVnyFxRL&ref=plSrch . ALSO... PC MASTER RACE

u/1_man_band · 3 pointsr/vinyl

You could get one of these and upgrade the stylus with one from LP Gear.

The LP Gear upgrade styli can be expensive though, so maybe you'd upgrade the stylus later on. I've put the AT92E on two different turntables and given them to friends, I've been very impressed by their performance.

u/msuts · 3 pointsr/vinyl

Looks like a standard mount cartridge to me. Your current cartridge, if using original stock, is the JVC MD1055 which is a rebranded Audio Technica AT3600. The cheapest replacement stylus for this cartridge is the Pfanstiehl 4211-D6, which costs $7.89. The official Audio Technica replacement stylus, likely higher quality, would cost roughly $14 plus shipping. I personally use a Pfanstiehl stylus on an AT95e cartridge for records that I do not want to play with my nicer AT440MLa, and the sound quality is not bad especially considering it cost $8.

The cheapest full cartridge replacement, and keep in mind this is not optimal but will probably sound the best at this price range, is the Audio Technica AT92ECD.

u/GothamCountySheriff · 3 pointsr/vinyl

It's a P-Mount plug-in type tonearm. It's missing the cart and the sidescrew that holds the cart in. Fortunately carts are relatively inexpensive. The Audio Technica AT-92E is a nice cart/stylus combo and relatively inexpensive at $25. It should also come with the sidescrew.

http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT92ECD-Universal-Replacement-Cartridge/dp/B00006HO3L

This is thing though. Your talking about $40 for the table, $25 for the cart, $10 for a belt. Your now $75 into it and you don't know if it even works. That's also toward the top end of the value of this turntable, if not a little beyond. It's realistically a $25-30 turntable, especially in it's condition. If you were to get this from a shop, I would guess your looking at $65-70 with the new belt and cart installed and that would be with some kind of warranty.

u/jeff8086 · 3 pointsr/vinyl

nevermind4790 is right, the Sony is no go. The Sanyo on the other hand should be a great first or secondary table. I say this because I have a TP256 I found for free that I use as a secondary TT, and from what I can tell from a blurry manual pic off ebay, they look to be about the same. I can only assume the 356 has better specs? if it is the same as the 256, it's a pmount, so you're looking at about a 1.5g tracking force and an abilty to us a decent cart. At first glance the Sony appears to be a similar cheap plastic turntable but the Sanyo is better. Grab a http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT92ECD-Universal-Replacement-Cartridge/dp/B00006HO3L/ref=pd_sim_e_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0312ZAAS5T0Y504F8PHE and this is the belt I used... http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005GM2M9E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 . I know it shows a really bad t-shirt, but I did receive a belt and it worked perfectly.

u/wolfcry0 · 3 pointsr/audio

Yes there is, it's called a mixer and lets you connect multiple sources to one device.

u/HungryhippoSalad · 3 pointsr/headphones

I've been trying to get a similar solution but between two PC's. I'm not a streamer, I just want to listen to a feed both and adjust the volume as needed. I bought a Rolls MiniMixer II which does the job.

​

I use Line out 3.5 to RCA into the a pair of line ins into the MiniMixer - then from the line out into a headphone amp to push the feed into my headphones. I put a ground loop isolator to minimize hiss.

​

I've been happy so far, but I'm wondering if there is a better solution.

u/[deleted] · 3 pointsr/vinyl

Get some isolation pads and you're set.

u/pizzalikeus · 3 pointsr/malelivingspace

The positioning is pretty good. You could put some fairly cheap foam treatment up to the sides and behind them. It does help but not as much as proper treatment (which you can build yourself with house insulation if you wanted). The bass won't collect too badly there I wouldn't think. It'll be the opposite side of the room, particularly the corners.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/AFHS-Pro-Acoustic-Studio-AFBT200/dp/B00I9W4C46/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1494670446&sr=8-4&keywords=acoustic+treatment

This is what I have. It made more of a difference than expected with it just being the foam (experts aren't a fan of it). Bare in mind different brands vary wildly in their effectiveness.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/AURALEX-ACOUSTICS-MOPAD-accessories-Speakers/dp/B0002D0B4K/ref=sr_1_6?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1494670577&sr=1-6&keywords=speaker+isolation+pads

This is the kind of thing I meant for the speakers though. Will stop them vibrating through the stand and affecting the sound. Spikes on the bottom of the stand help too. Apologies if you know all this!

u/padlock1221 · 3 pointsr/vinyl

A nice looking setup!

Your next step should probably be to isolate the speakers so they're not vibrating your table. These have always worked wonders for me in the studio I work at

Also, nice choice of keyboard (I have the 25) AND interface (I have the regular EIE and love it).

u/DonnoDoes · 3 pointsr/audio

These should help a little bit, if you don’t have them already. Also, the less surface area your speakers have to the floor, the better - less surface for low freqs to travel through. Speaker stands on another soft material would help.

Then some bass traps and iso pads too. As mentioned bass is tough to isolate, but the more absorbing material the better.

I saw the comment about having her check it out, if it’s possible to hear it from their space that’d help your perspective too, and possible defense. I’m super sensitive to bass, and can sympathize with her, but have also had to deal with noisy neighbors with no solution. Just gotta deal with it.

u/Spaghetee · 3 pointsr/edmproduction

Remember to put your monitors on stands or on a thick foam (Auralex makes some good stuff for a relatively cheap price) because if you don't, the low frequencies will travel through the surface and hit you faster than the higher ones, which will screw up your mix (frequencies won't be balanced).

As far as the talking bass goes, you can do some pretty nifty stuff with resampling so I hear, but I'm not a huge fan of it. Using a vocoder won't produce a dubstep-esque talking bass, but it'll resemble more of a robot no matter what your carrier signal is, unless you modulate the shit out of it. If you're doing it to make a name drop or some sort of robotic sentence, it should work but if you're trying to formulate a noise for the drop it'll be a little more challenging.

u/mdeckert · 3 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

"Gaaarrrr!! you have to buy top of the line yamaha ones or you're stupid!"

"No I love my cheapie ones they sound so great!"

"You better get some isolation pads."

"I just mix on headphones, it works fine for me."

FWIW I went through a whole long discussion on this and ended up almost spending ~ $200 on these two things, but then I decided I should get something better if I'm going to bother buying monitors (I can't make a whole lot of noise currently so I was chopping for something small):

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MUXJCO/

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002D0B4K/



I'll see it I can't dig up the old thread for you.

u/themrpeanutman · 3 pointsr/edmproduction

Standard setup for bedroom production is something like a Scarlett 2i2 with varying mic choices based on budget. Two sweet spots as far as price/performance ratio for me:

Rode NT1:
New version of the classic NT1a with clear performance representation and a crisp high end. Metal pop filter is also dope. Sensitive to background noise.

https://www.amazon.com/Rode-NT1KIT-Condenser-Microphone-Cardioid/dp/B00GGGQK56

Shure SM7b:
Widely used for a reason. Everyone and their mom has one of these because they sound so good. Bonus for non-studio work is that it isn't going to pick up a fly farting in the room next to you because it's dynamic. You need a cloudlifter tho so keep that in mind.

https://www.amazon.com/Shure-SM7B-Dynamic-Microphone-Cardioid/dp/B0002E4Z8M

u/PuchoDR · 3 pointsr/kindafunny

I think I found the microphone!. I really appreciate your help, it's always nice to come across someone who goes out of their way to help you when they have no reason to do so. Thanks dude.

u/StDoodle · 3 pointsr/letsplay

Why not just use a floor stand?

u/Aappleyard · 3 pointsr/Vive

Why not tape / stick them to the walls. I understand not being able to drill into the walls though. Most microphone stands / lighting stands will work as the pin / connectors are mostly universal. I have a studio which I am setting my VR stuff up in and I do audio production and photography and all the stands we have are compatible.

http://www.amazon.ca/Stage-Stands-MS7701-Tripod-Microphone/dp/B000978D58/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1456929652&sr=8-1&keywords=mic+stand

These are not bad, 3 legs should be more stable. They are boom arms so you can position them more accurately and are cheaper than the ones you linked. They should extend to about 7 foot tall or lower and can be angled which is handy and you usually get cable clamps with them so you can keep your power cables tidy. Also think about getting some weights on the legs just for extra stability because any movement in the lighthouse units will mean re calibration!

u/jacktheBOSS · 3 pointsr/Rockband

For the drummer, you'll want to get a boom mic stand. I got one for $20 at guitar center. Those can bend at the almost 90 degree angle you need to get it in the drummers face, but they work for standing up also!

Edit 2: Doesn't come with mic clip. Buy that one the other guy suggested. The Q & A led me astray.

Edit: This would be perfect for your needs and comes with a clip that I think would fit Rock Band mics: On Stage Stands MS7701B Tripod Boom Microphone Stand https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000978D58/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_awd_YvfEwbDDJ4FM3

u/toxicfreeLoL · 3 pointsr/smashbros

you kind of just need an audio-interface that provides X inputs and X outputs. Check out the stuff from Native Instruments, especially the Audio Kontrol devices, there should be sth that fits your needs.

edit: the NI-stuff is probably an overkill, its more fit for music-recording/production, maybe you can find a cheaper alternative with less features.
maybe sth like this

u/jfb112697 · 3 pointsr/SSBM

What is the correct way to setup caster headsets so they can hear each other and such, audio is definitely not my strong suit. I'm using OBS and have one of these if that helps.

u/jabob513 · 3 pointsr/PCSound

I personally recommend the Klipsch ProMedia as the best sub-$200 option. Sound is really solid and it's definitely got the bass. Plugging your computer in is straightforward and I believe the newest version has bluetooth as well. Best Buy used to have it as a demo with their computer speakers, not sure if they do anymore.

A better option might be studio monitors like the JBL LSR305/LSR30X which are also an insane deal. You'd need to get a bluetooth adapter and you'd need to worry about inputs (many studio monitors take 1/4" or XLR, which would require janky adapters (probably won't sound great out of a headphhone out without something like this) or a dac/audio interface like this or this. The JBL approach will get you a better sound (more accurate to the music, more balanced sound, magical amazing beautiful and perfect imaging) but will probably be a bit above what you'd like to spend. Most of that stuff can also be bought used if you are okay with that.

I would try and stretch or save up a bit for the monitors. They're a pretty solid step up from most all "computer speakers," and the JBLs in particular are one of the best bang-for-buck deals in audio that I've seen.

Best of luck, and feel free to shoot me a PM with more questions or what you decide to do!

u/ajxela · 3 pointsr/Bass

If you have a Mac then you have garage band which has some decent sounding bass amp sims for free. You just need an audio interface, which you could find for probably under $40.

First interface I got is this one, https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000HVXMNE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520916937&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=lexicon+alpha+audio+interface&dpPl=1&dpID=31JIs7zmfCL&ref=plSrch and it’s $48.

Not great but definitely gets that job done.

u/Bakenators · 3 pointsr/letsplay

This is probably what's commonly known as ground loop. This is caused by electricity going in a loop within your setup. Crossing wires such as power wires and speaker wires, coming in and our of your wall socket, computer, and everything plugged in together, will cause this to happen and does not necessarily persist only within your blue yeti, especially because you mute it and it still happens. You may have introduced new wires or devices that brought more electricity into the mix, causing this ground loop. Best thing to do would be to unplug devices individually from your setup until it disappears, and then you'll know the culprit. This can be fixed by using a ground loop isolator (hum/noise isolator), or by painstakingly going through your setup to find the culprit, keeping wires as uncrossed as possible, and with a lot of luck.

I personally solved mine with 3 of these and possibly even this if it applies to you. Good luck

u/Undergallows · 3 pointsr/rocksmith

You've got a ground loop.

Look at your headphone jack, see how there's black rings separating the metal bits? (You'll have 2 or 3 depending on mono or stereo jack). One of those separations is the "ground". When you plug your headphones in the ground goes from your headphones into your jack, through the USB, and out the ground pin on your Xbox power brick. When you plug your amp in you're adding another ground path through your amp's cord, causing a ground loop, which adds the buzz you're hearing.

To solve your buzz, you need to get rid of one of the ground paths. There are many many ways to do this, but here's a few inexpensive ones.

  1. http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-HD400-2-Channel-Hum-Destroyer/dp/B000KUD2G4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1394933322&sr=8-2&keywords=hum+eliminator place this before the input of your amp. This isolates ground that would come from the cord, eliminating the "loop". Your xbox is grounded, and so is your amp, but the unit prevents them from sharing each-other's ground path, eliminating the ground loop and the buzz.

  2. http://www.amazon.com/45086-3-Prong-2-Prong-Electrical-Adapter/dp/B00166TT3G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394933411&sr=8-1&keywords=ground+lift buy one of these and plug your amp into this. The intended use of these is actually to give you ground where you don't have ground (you screw the little metal bit into the metal screw that holds your wall outlet), but we're not using it for that purpose. We're using it to remove the ground path from your amp. So make sure if you use this, don't let the metal loop touch other metal. You lifted ground from the amp, but it's okay because your amp is still grounded via your cable which is grounded through the Xbox.

    Keep in mind if you lift the ground and then unplug the amp from the Xbox you're playing with an ungrounded amp and are potentially in the danger zone.
u/emosoresex · 3 pointsr/rocksmith

Truthfully the in game sound is perfectly fine IMO and up to par with any DAW I've used, the difference is likely in what you're using to output the sound (the two 12" are going to sound a ton better than shitty macbook speakers or not amazing quality headphones).

That being said I'm splitting to the same exact amp for my setup with a behringer headphone amplifier and dehummer.

I've heard other people use tuning pedals or AB/Y pedals which may (probably) are a cheaper and better solution, but I can't personally speak to that.

The downside of this setup is that you're going to still need to keep your volume at 10 and your tone at 10 on your guitar for the best RS note detection.

u/shetkunt · 3 pointsr/FL_Studio
u/AuxiliaryPost · 3 pointsr/audioengineering

Well, unfortunately you'll have to be a little more precise then that if you want any help !

Perhaps an audio snippet ? 10 seconds would be fine. So at least we can help you identify your main problem. Because "shitty" doesn't say a lot.

Is it noisy ? Too much room ambiance ? Distorted ?

If you plan on doing more than one video you might wanna invest in a cheap USB mic. Even a cheap one would be immensely greater than your built-in laptop mic. Something along these lines [http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000ULQTE0/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_2?pf_rd_p=485327511&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B002OO18NS&pf_rd_m=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&pf_rd_r=1M1QN0HND2QM4NVBTNT8](Amazon link)

u/roblesinge · 3 pointsr/audioengineering

What kind of voiceover are you doing (radio, telephony, film)? For that price point, and since you seem to be just starting out, I'd also second a USB mic option. For quick voiceovers at home, I usually use my Blue Yeti. It is a nice quiet mic that comes with a desktop stand. Blue sells a [pop filter] (http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Microphones-The-Universal-Filter/dp/B0002H0H4A/ref=pd_sim_MI_2) for it separately, although you can do a lot to mitigate pops and such with good mic technique. The drawback to a USB mic is that you can't use it with an upgraded audio interface later on down the line. If you go with the MXL V67, you need to figure out how you want to get the audio into a computer. You'll need some kind of interface. They can be simple like a Blue Icicle, or complex with multiple inputs and outputs.

Have you considered where in your home you're going to record? This is far more important than equipment, IMO. A bad recording space will be captured by even the most expensive of microphones.

u/DrHibbard · 3 pointsr/audio

Buy This:

http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Microphones-Icicle-Converter-Preamp/dp/B001EW5YQS

Blue Icicle XLR-USB with phantom power, under $50. The AT2020 actually comes in USB in case you can exchange it, but if not, you'll like the icicle. The 2020 is a great mic for the price and will be good for more than just chatting.

u/alchemy_index · 3 pointsr/audio

> there really isn't a way to get external audio

That's not true. Buy the skeleton housing, USB microphone adapter, and any microphone (wired or wireless) that outputs to a 3.5mm plug (I use this one) and you're good to go. Much better sound quality than the crappy built in mic.

u/ajdellinger · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

It's an Audio-Technica ATR-3350, my Father's Day gift to him because I'm just that awesome of a son.

u/2old2care · 3 pointsr/Filmmakers

Just a few thoughts: If you are a beginner and especially if you are going to be both operating the camera and doing interviews at the same time, don't use a DSLR. You need a regular consumer camcorder, the nicest one you can afford. Be sure it has an external microphone input and a headphone output. So, you will need at least one external microphone, a shotgun and/or a lavalier. The most important thing in your documentary is good sound!

This little Audio Technica lavalier can sound just fine:
http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATR-3350-Omnidirectional-Condenser-Microphone/dp/B002HJ9PTO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1382119845&sr=8-2&keywords=audio+technica+lavalier+mic

This inexpensive shotgun also works well:
http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATR-6550-Condenser-Shotgun-Microphone/dp/B002GYPS3M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1382119920&sr=8-1&keywords=audio+technica+shotgun+mic

A little explanation: A consumer camcorder has pretty good auto focus and usually face recognition, so you won't have to worry about keeping things in focus. Also, you'll have pretty good auto exposure and auto white balance. If you are shooting your first documentary with limited experience and/or a very small crew, you need to think about content and let the camera help you instead of having to think about too many things. It's true a DSLR with a good operator can make your documentary look better, but it won't matter if the story isn't there. If your story is good, the audience will accept a lot of shortcomings, especially in the picture.

When shooting, use the external microphone whenever you can. If you have only one subject, use the lavalier, otherwise use the shotgun. Always monitor the audio in the headphones. I have a friend who accidentally plugged the microphone into the headphone jack and didn't know it until too late!

Good luck!

u/ViaticalTree · 3 pointsr/videography

I second this. You HAVE to invest in some off camera sound capture equipment. Good quality sound is every bit as important as good video quality. Zoom H1 and a cheap lavalier mic are good suggestions. I've used this one and it's pretty good for the price. If money is really tight, you might get away with plugging the mic straight into the camera and forgoing the separate recorder. The audio just won't be quite as clean.

u/veni_vidi_vale · 3 pointsr/headphones

If you are making closed grills yourself, the easiest way would probably to buy a duplicate pair of grills and line them on the inside with dynamat or silverstone [acoustic foam] (http://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-21-Inch-Dampening-Acoustic-SF01/dp/B0040JHMH6) or some similar material. Sure you will reduce sound leakage, and while this is tempting to try out, IMO I think this type of mod will kill the signature HD650 sound.

If you wanted to get more creative, try searching for "HD 650 woodies". The only commercial outlet I know for getting closed wooden hd 650 grills was [headphile] (http://www.headphile.com/page4.html), but I have no idea if they are still in business or not. I can tell you that some of the woody mods looked [ridiculous] (http://cdn-ak.f.st-hatena.com/images/fotolife/w/web123/20090930/20090930235259.jpg).

The bigger question is, why do you want to do this? IMO the open architecture is one of the highlights of the 650. I think that the listening experience is so enriched by the open design that a closed sound would be against everything that the 650 designer so skillfully built into the design, i.e. you will be building an abomination :-)

u/cy384 · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

some sort of electronics sound dampening foam like this should be good.

u/sodiumjoe · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

SilverStone 21-Inch x 15-Inch 4mm Thick 2-Piece Sound Dampening Acoustic EP0M Silent Foam SF01 (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0040JHMH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_iLySKYiAMxu2s

u/Camper1995 · 3 pointsr/Headphoneporn

Mostly I spent a lot of time on experimenting with the drivers and cups, I settled with some kind of home-made "DYI" Lawton mod, like this.


It tightened up the sound of X00 so much, bass and mids are separate things suddenly, every detail stands out much more now, very enjoyable and worth doing imo. Next up was a combination of attenuation rings under the pads and rotation the original foam around the drivers. I've tried many more things than that, but I settled on those since in this case, "less is more" and new wooden cups + foam on the drivers really makes these shine. The rest is just to correct the tonality. If someone wants a darker sound, they can place a thin piece of felt directly over the speakers, tho I prefer it without it :) (felt over the driver also tames the sibilance but makes the sound less airy which I dislike)

EDIT: In case you're wondering, I used this foam for the driver mod. Amazon link here

u/mvrk10256 · 3 pointsr/headphones

Sound Review:

First let me say that the best way to describe them is to say they are nothing like my HD650s. Really if the HD650s are dead north, these are dead south. They have pronounced mids and highs, small bass, but they are exceptionally clear. You hear details that simply did not exist before. They take quite a bit of power to drive (the OTL wouldn't drive them properly). Anyone should be able to build these for less than $200. I would say that at that price point these are a great value. I dont know that these will be my go to headphone, but they are definitely different than anything I have ever used before.

EDIT: Do not use self adhesive felt on the drivers, get non adhesive stiff back from Michael's or similar. This will give you nice strong bass, with excellent extension. These bad boys sound amazing now. Now if I could just get the pads to stay on better...

Information:
Original thread.

Stuff to buy:
Fostex T50RP
Sticky Stiff Felt
Modeling Clay
Shure Replacement Pads
Double Sided Scrapbook Tape
Silverstone Audio Block

u/Ophidios · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Lots of folks do this - no danger so long as you’re using an appropriate material. I’ve written at length on this in the past, but he short answer is that it becomes truly helpful in two conditions:

1 - the material is sufficiently designed to absorb sound.

2 - the material is thick enough to make contact with the PCB, allowing a direct transfer of acoustics.

I have personally always used Dynamat, and it does an amazing job. It’s thick enough to touch your PCB, but thin and compressive enough that it won’t damage any components. Another more cost-effective solution is using SilverStone silencing foam. I haven’t personally used it, but I have personally typed on boards using it, and it’s still pretty good, for half the price.

Lots of people use budget options as well, like shelf liner and things like that. All of them are better than nothing, but if you’re not using the correct material, you’re really not doing a whole lot to truly absorb sound and migrate the issue. I’ve touched plenty of boards that have only gone halfway with silencing, and the difference to me is super apparent.

u/itsZiz · 3 pointsr/Twitch

FYI the atr2005 mic is 100x better (Is USB and XLR, sounds better, smaller and cuts out back ground noise) and its $10 cheaper! https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT2005USB-Cardioid-Dynamic-Microphone/dp/B007JX8O0Y/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1499790415&sr=8-10&keywords=audio+technica+atr2100

PS. there is also the atr2100 which is even cheaper at $69

u/kickedtripod · 3 pointsr/Twitch

Hey!
A bit about me before I go on a rant: I'm a professional podcaster. Spoken audio is how I make my living. I've used and tried just about every popular microphone/preamp (XLR & USB) up to about $500 (and quite a few over $500). So to start, what routes CAN you take (you kind of highlighted your options a bit, but I'd like to expand on them).

  1. A new headset microphone. Simple. Look HyperX Cloud II or a nice Sennheiser set. They've got really good gaming headset microphones (but very few if any headset microphones are going to sound better than a "real" microphone), and you wont need any extra equipment. The downside is your audio quality will only ever be adequate and the quality of your headphones is tied to the audio quality of your microphone.
  2. A USB microphone. This is the compromise most streamers make. With a USB-only microphone, the DAC (Digital-to-Analog Converter) is built into the microphone. DACs typically do two things 1. Convert the signal and 2. Add/reduce/maintain quality. For example, a USB > XLR converter box is $5 on Amazon, but the sound degradation is night and day worse than what you would get from a more serious DAC like a Scarlett Solo or something similar. With a USB microphone, the DAC is built into the microphone itself. Generally speaking, a separate DAC is going to have superior sound quality to an integrated one (in the same way an integrated GPU is almost always worse than a dedicated one) - but there are exceptions, and at the lower price ranges the differences are generally minimal. If you go with a USB microphone, I personally would suggest you skip over the Yeti. The Yeti is a FINE sounding microphone, but it has a LOUD noise floor meaning that computer fans, A/C units, and just about anything else that makes noise will be picked up by that microphone without laying on effects. In the Yeti's favor, it's a REALLY cool looking microphone - but it definitely doesn't punch at or above its weight in sound quality. Again, you can make a Yeti sound good if you have the right room or the technical ability to add a noise gate, EQ, compressor, etc, but it's a lot of extra work. I'll talk about recommendations in a second.
  3. An XLR microphone. This is the "long-term" play. However, MOST XLR microphones are going to have minimal superior sound quality until you get to microphones at about $250+. With an XLR microphone you'll also need a DAC. A decent DAC (that outperforms the built in DAC of a USB microphone) is generally going to run near the $100 range. Meaning that for your microphone, boom stand, pop filter, and shockmount, you're tied to $150 to stay in your price range. The upside is, it's unlikely you'll need to replace your DAC anytime soon unless you grow into really expensive microphones.

     

    Types of Microphones:
  • Condenser: Condenser microphones are generally the most popular on the Twitch streaming community but, in my opinion, they shouldn't be used in most cases. Condenser microphones tend to have loud noise floors and require a room to be treated. They also generally have worse angle rejection (ideally, your microphone isn't catch noise to the side and behind the microphone).
  1. Broadcast microphone. This is my recommendation. You can lose some of the "shiny-ness" of a condenser microphone, but in most cases it's not noticeably relevant. Comparing ~$250 budget microphones aren't going to have incredibly different frequency responses (again, exceptions apply).
    Recommendations:
  2. An XLR/USB hybrid microphone - Broadcast: The Audio-Technica AT2005USB is a microphone that has both XLR and USB. Meaning you can start out with USB, get the right equipment with a boom arm/shock mount/pop filter and down the road get an audio interface (DAC) to add some quality to the microphone. The only downside? The microphone isn't especially cool to look at.
  3. A USB-only microphone. The Audio Technica ATR2100-USB is essentially the same as the 2005, but doesn't have XLR. You save $15. This article is a great source on some dynamic microphones to take a look at.
  4. An XLR-only microphone. This is the long-term play, but not a bad one. If you see yourself wanting to upgrade microphones and change out gear down the road, this may be the most viable option. You picked a good microphone in the AT2035, but a mediocre DAC (for reasons I discussed earlier).
  5. Headset: Sennheiser or HyperX Cloud II. Do some research and watch some reviews.

     

    Sorry for the INCREDIBLY long-winded response. Microphones, for me, make or break streams and just because it's "analog" or "looks cool" doesn't mean that it'll perform well. I also want to add an additional shout out to using a Podfarm or OBS's VST plugins to highlight your voice. Using a microphone "dry" is rarely (if ever) the best way to get the best out of that microphone. Adding simple effects can be the difference maker between making a $50 microphone sound like a $500 one and a $500 one sound like a $50 microphone. Cheers and good luck!
u/kwerbias · 3 pointsr/Twitch

A condenser microphone is going to pick up mouse/keyboard sounds no matter how directional it is. I originally bought a Blue Yeti and was shocked by how much environmental noise it picks up, this is not a viable option for most people.

Instead what you should do is get a dynamic cardioid or supercardioid microphone. Not a lot of these exist with a USB connection but the ones that do work extremely well. I recommend the Audio Technica ATR2100-USB (alternative version) or the Samson Q1U if you can't find the AT, they're difficult to get in Europe for some reason.

Either of these will serve the purpose of the average streamer much better than the microphones you are recommending.

I use the AT2100USB and it works very well.

u/Obscure_Username_ · 3 pointsr/Twitch

If you want to future-proof your setup, go with something XLR based, and later down the road you can upgrade and replace stuff on the cheap.

I personally use an AT2020-XLR on a cheap mic stand that comes with a shock mount and built in cable (gets a bit squeaky after a few months of use, but only when fully retracting it), piped through a phantom power supply and an XLR to USB cable

A really good mic to go with would also be the ATR 2100 as it is both XLR and USB. It's a dynamic mic, so background noise won't be much of an issue. The price point is great, and it would be easy to expand on later. I personally have no experience with the mic, so take that as you will.

u/TCzelusniak · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

It looks a lot like the one I have, so this is my guess

u/the_blue_wizard · 3 pointsr/audio

Look at the size of the bass drivers, and the rated bass response.

The Mackie CR3 have 3" bass drivers with rated bass down to 80hz. I had speakers on my computer that were rated down to 80hz, and they sounded OK. But 3" Speakers are not going to rock the house.

On Amazon, these speaker are $100/pr. Is that the limit of your budget?

The Mackie CD4 at 4" only give you another 10hz, response down to 70hz, and the price is $150/pr -

https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-CR4-Pair-Reference-Multimedia/dp/B00KVEIY4O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468956016&sr=8-1&keywords=Mackie+CR4

The Mackie MR5 MK3 are 5" speakers with response down to 45hz though the price is about $240/pr -

http://mackie.com/products/mrmk3-series

https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-MR5mk3-5-Inch-Powered-Monitors/dp/B00EUISUGE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468955775&sr=8-2&keywords=Mackie+MR5

These are very good speakers.

So, the conclusion is that the Mackie CR3 and CR4 will not have excess bass.

u/DZCreeper · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Get a pair of studio monitors. You can add a dedicated subwoofer later if the bass response is not deep enough for you.

https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-CR4-Pair-Reference-Multimedia/dp/B00KVEIY4O

u/Teewit · 3 pointsr/Beatmatch

My setup is M-Audio bx5s and a $5 thrift store subwoofer w/ a chinese $30 amp.

I hear good things about these though

u/smushkan · 2 pointsr/videography

> Is there a loss of quality when plugging high quality mics into a lower-end camera's jacks?

Generally yes, but not always. It's more a usability thing. If you're shooting abroad with no way of repairs or replacements, an XLR will be a lot more rugged and reliable than a molded jack. Additionally, pro camcorders provide phantom power so you don't need to put batteries in the microphones meaning one less consumable to worry about.

You've linked to a lav microphone - but be aware that the one you've linked to requires a powered preamp, and will not work on standard 'mic ins' on consumer level equipment. Lav mics are great - they don't produce as 'natural' a sound as a shotgun microphone (due to the proximity to the chest giving emphasis to low end frequencies), but they do produce reliably clear, understandable sounds. There are, however, a few reasons why I personally would shy away from using one for your project:

  • They're a bit awkward to use with subjects that are not used to appearing on camera. You need to give at least some mild coaching to make sure they don't move their head around too much, fidget with their clothes, or touch the microphone (which may be difficult if you don't speak the language very well!)
  • They're fragile
  • They only capture good audio for the person they're attached to, meaning that you'll need more than one if you want to do an interview-style conversation, or a conversation between multiple parties (and then you'll require some kind of mixer)

    If you'd like to go that route, then a nice affordable option is the ATR3350. Make sure you pack batteries though!


u/camopdude · 2 pointsr/gaming

That's not much to work with.

Here's a good, low cost wired lav for audio.

This webcam seems to get good reviews.

And then spend the rest on some lighting.

u/TKEOP867 · 2 pointsr/FocusST

Actually pick up some seat covers to start. Been meaning to do that for the past 4 months but they're all so expensive and ugly.

Side note: Bass of the exhaust really picks up in the middle of the video and kinda drowns out your voice. Might be worth picking up a lavalier mic or something to get a little bit better sound and more of your voice. I use this one and it's treated me well so far. And it's only $30

u/ScheisskopfFTW · 2 pointsr/videos

Hey man awesome first video! I would like to give you a few suggestions. I've made a ton of noob mistakes that you can avoid. After a year and a half my channel has had moderate success, and I hope these tips help you out. Feel free to PM me with any questions.

  1. Sound People are far more likely to view your videos if it's easy for them to do it. If there are dark scenes or sketchy audio you will lose the viewers' attention quickly. This microphone is cheap, easy to use, and will make your audio sound great.

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002HJ9PTO/ref=oh_details_o08_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

  2. Lighting Find a light you like and use it in all of your videos. For cooking shows a whiter light gives an added pop to the screen. Yellow light makes things look dull and boring.

  3. Music Your music choice was awesome, but a little loud. Loud music can be distracting. Music is used to cover up an silence that may make your videos awkward. It should be there to comfort the viewer, but not distract them. If you're planning on making money on your videos you'll need to use royalty free music. Here are a few sites that have a good selection for free:

    http://www.royaltyfreemusicroom.com/

    https://musopen.org/

    http://machinimasound.com/index.html

  4. Confidence I get the feeling that you want your channel to have a fun easy going vibe. Your confidence is key to the success of this idea. It's uncomfortable as hell the first few times you get in front of the camera, but it's vital to stay confident.

  5. Animations You seem to have a nice grasp of adding small animations to your videos. I would suggest adding an ingredients list on the side of the video.

  6. Perseverance Your channel will likely not grow big for a while. Even great channels take a long time to take off. Don't let this discourage you. You obviously know what you're doing, and I hope you're having fun. Don't let peoples' opinions change you too much. Take criticism but stay true to yourself.
u/bezerk55 · 2 pointsr/Filmmakers

i think you mean lavalier mic. a lot of budget dslr users use this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002HJ9PTO. it's wired and has a 3.5mm mono jack so you'll have to duplicate the left channel to the right in post. but it's very cheap and works. this could plug straight into the camera line in without an external recorder if you are super budgeted. the h4n is not really an interview mic, although it gives you xlr input recording if you get a more pro lavalier with an xlr connection.

u/SPYDHOOM · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Any combination of these is good, I've also included a deal on amazon USA that has audio technical awesome audiophile headhones 199$ -> 70$;

---------------head phones-----------------

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HVLUQW8/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1503205349&sr=8-8&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=audio+technica&dpPl=1&dpID=41EDeh-wXKL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0001ARCFA/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1503205717&sr=1-2&refinements=p_36%3A1253505011&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=headphones&dpPl=1&dpID=41iu1l-OAvL&ref=plSrch

www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00001WRSJ/ref=mp_s_a_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1503205768&sr=1-16&refinements=p_36%3A1253505011&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=headphones&dpPl=1&dpID=41ADlzRP9hL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ENMK1DW/ref=mp_s_a_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1503205768&sr=1-15&refinements=p_36%3A1253505011&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=headphones&dpPl=1&dpID=41%2BX-iFa0PL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004FEEY9A/ref=mp_s_a_1_21?ie=UTF8&qid=1503205768&sr=1-21&refinements=p_36%3A1253505011&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=headphones&dpPl=1&dpID=41ljcZIdgGL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009S332TQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_20?ie=UTF8&qid=1503205768&sr=1-20&refinements=p_36%3A1253505011&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=headphones&dpPl=1&dpID=41kFstqC55L&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HVLUQW8/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1503205349&sr=8-8&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=audio+technica&dpPl=1&dpID=41EDeh-wXKL&ref=plSrch

---------------------mics---------------------

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002HJ9PTO/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1503205474&sr=8-11&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=lav+mic

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0058MJX4O/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1503205474&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=lav+mic&dpPl=1&dpID=31l%2BOAM-HdL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B015R1U5XS/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1503205429&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=neewer+nw&dpPl=1&dpID=51LxsbISrEL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00XOXRTX6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503205393&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=neewer+nw&dpPl=1&dpID=41yPNjD%2BW6L&ref=plSrch

u/phloating_man · 2 pointsr/videography

In your case, I'd recommend a separate audio recorder with a lav mic or shotgun mic. Here are a few options.

Audio Recorders

  • Tascam DR-05 (~$100 USD)
  • Zoom H1 (~$100 USD)
  • TASCAM DR-40 (~$180 USD, XLR)
  • Zoom H4N (~$270 USD, XLR]

    Lav Mics

  • Azden EX503 (~$20 USD, phantom powered)
  • Audio-Technica ATR-3350 (~$20 USD, battery powered)

    Shotgun

  • Rode Videomic (~$150 USD)
  • Azden SGM-1X (~$170 USD, XLR)
u/_sigint_ · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I bought this, should be here Friday. I'm putting it in my KUL, will update if it resolves the horrendous ping.

u/KafkaPro · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Either Filco or Leopold do this with their stock boards. You cut out a piece of material, like shelf liner/pc case soundproofing/sorbothane, and line the inside of the case with it. It reduces the resonance that metal cases accentuate when bottoming out. Leads to a deeper and more solid sound. Im going to try this, I've never seen anyone use it here so we'll so how it works out.

u/Mad_Economist · 2 pointsr/headphones

Yep, that rear venting - [under the black felt square in this picture] (http://cdn.innerfidelity.com/images/Fostex_T50RPMk3_photo_CompareCapsuleInside.jpg), from an inside perspective - plays a large role in T50RP bass response.

Tape's the easiest, most-reversible way. You might do permanent sealing at some point, but for the moment, temporary and functional is good for experimenting.

You get acoustic foam [by buying it] (http://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-21-Inch-Dampening-Acoustic-SF01/dp/B0040JHMH6), typically, though I'm not one to intrude in another man's affairs :P

No worries, I'm here to help - I remember being new, and I'd like to help new folks along.

u/Sylanthra · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

When I assemble my keyboards I put sound dampening material between the plate and the pcb. This is perfect

u/orlandotoldmeso · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Decided to build a 60% with cherry silent reds, o-rings and some acoustic foam at the bottom because I have the same problem

u/yeticabra · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards
u/seantingwong · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

It's some sort of sound dampening foam I found on Amazon. It also works really well for cases and the back of mounting plates (between the plate and the pcb).

u/pedantic_jackass · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Between the PCB and the bottom of the case some people use SilverStone 4mm Silent Foam SF01 - $17.99

Dynamat - $13.99 is another popular case-dampening material.

A couple less expensive options that also work well:

Neoprene foam rubber with adhesive backing - $1.11 per foot + $2.80 shipping. Sold in 2" wide strips, so 4-5 feet is probably plenty for most keyboards.

Adhesive-backed neoprene rubber pads - $1.99 + $3.95 shipping. Two sets might be necessary for larger keyboards.

u/DrunkPanda · 2 pointsr/airsoft

Uh...I suppose you could... here's what a high cap looks like inside. You'd have to remove sections of the mag but leave that part that clips into the magwell...and leave the bottom exposed so you can wind it (or if you have a flash mag feed a string through I suppose). Basically you're replacing the hard walls the BB hit into with cloth. You could line the edge of the feeding tube so they only hit metal or plastic at the bottom where they feed into the wheel. You could totally massively increase the capacity this way! It'd probably look like a giant ballsack hanging from your gun though. Hmmmm that gives me an idea....

I guess a more practical solution would be line the inside of the mag with cloth or thin sheets of acoustic foam (this is what I use to fill crevices in guns to dampen noise and reduce plasticreak) but I have a feeling that the BBs would have feeding issue and the capacity would reduced.

Honestly, I've completely switched to mid caps - 5x110 BBs is more than enough for 99% of matches. No rattling, consistent feeding, no winding, work in any orientation, and no tell tale WHIIRRRRR when you run out of ammo. Folks at my field listen for that to know when to pop out and open up because they know they are likely to catch someone with their pants down - some folks carry one and pull the spring release to cause a whirr to trick others to pop out lol.

u/MoogleMan3 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

You can have a killer setup for under $500.

Mic: Audio Technica AT2005 - A great mic that a lot of let's players use (draax, zueljin, kingdaddydmac, etc.). It also accepts xlr or usb inputs (more on that at the end). I use the atr2100, which is the same mic, just different color and warranty. The at2005 is cheaper by about $25 right now, so buying today, that's the one I'd get. It's a dynamic mic, so it blocks out sound that's not in front of it. Much better for noisy environments. Condenser mics like the blue yeti will pick up a lot more background noise. Other mics I've used are the V-Moda Boompro, which works with most headphones that have detachable cables (in my case the M100s) and sounds good, but changing the cable for when I didn't want to use the mic became old pretty fast. You can leave it attached, but then the boom mic is there all the time. I've also used the antlion modmic 4.0 and can't recommend it. It has white noise unless you use a usb soundcard, the cable is stiff and it's kind of expensive compared to full fledged mics. $56

Stand: Pyle PMKSH01 Suspension Boom Scissor Microphone Stand - A decent cheap stand. Nothing special, but it comes with an integrated xlr cable. I use this one, but may upgrade to the Rode PSA1 ($100) later on. The shock mount will not fit the at2005 however. $21

Shock Mount: On-Stage MY420 - A great shock mount that fits the at2005/atr2100. Shock mounts reduce noises from bumping your desk or tapping on your keyboard; things that may reverberate to your mic. It might not even be necessary if you're not a heavy handed gamer or if your desk is made of a thick, dense material. $25

Wind Filter: On-Stage Foam Ball Windscreen - Reduces wind/breathing noises as well as minimizing plosives. Not a complete necessity, but extremely cheap and it does help, so why not? $3

Cable management: Velcro One-Wrap Cable Wraps - I use these for keeping the usb cable for the mic attached to the stand. Extremely useful and cheap. $6

Headphones: Very subjective to user preference. I prefer closed vs open for noise isolation. Here's what I've used:

Audio Technica ATH M50: Good (not great) headphones for ~$100. Considered the standard by many, but to me they're just good. $155

V-Moda M100: Excellent sound with very potent bass. They make the M50s sound muddy in comparison. HOWEVER, the M100s have a design flaw where the "wings" (the parts above where you adjust the headphones) will crack over time. It happened to two pairs of my M100s. Unacceptable for the price of these headphones, regardless of how good they sound. $222

Beyerdynamic DT770 Pro 80 Ohm: Amazing. Potent bass like the M100s, but even a bit clearer. Very wide soundstage for closed headphones. I paid $219 for mine and don't regret it a single bit. I might grab another pair at the price they're currently at. $150

All that adds up to around $261 + tax choosing the DT770s, and will be a killer setup for gaming. Far better than any "gaming" headset, and it even opens the option of streaming or let's play videos (the reason I got my setup). There is one more thing I'd add though, given the budget if you're serious about mic quality, and that's the $99 Focusrite Scarlett Solo 2nd Gen. It's a usb audio interface that accepts xlr mics. It gives you a bit more control over the audio coming out of your mic and cleans up the signal so you get less "noise" from the usb interface. Quality is good without it, but with it, it's noticeably better.

Hope this helps some! I spent quite a while researching things when I put my own setup together. :)

u/Jason-Genova · 2 pointsr/Twitch

Your best bet is to save up a little more and buy a stand alone mic that will last years.

This mic you can connect via a usb and xlr. Once you buy this and save more money up you can buy a cheap mixer/preamp to connect this to. It will make your mic sound a lot better.

https://www.amazon.com/Technica-AT2005USB-Handheld-Dynamic-Microphone/dp/B007JX8O0Y/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Audio+Technica+AT2005USB+Handheld+Dynamic+Microphone&qid=1565335068&s=musical-instruments&sr=1-3

Scroll down and buy all 3 of the frequently bought together items for under 90 bucks. The arm, windscreen to put on the mic, and the mic.


When you're able to save up more money you should buy a preamp/mixer and use that xlr cable to plug into it. Here is a cheap one for down the road:

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-502-Premium-5-Input-British/dp/B000J5UEGQ?ref_=Oct_BSellerC_11974871_0&pf_rd_p=86c5a16b-d588-5ae0-b0bf-f9999489ccdd&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-6&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_i=11974871&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=40F5EHBSEKR7GBG77VK3&pf_rd_r=40F5EHBSEKR7GBG77VK3&pf_rd_p=86c5a16b-d588-5ae0-b0bf-f9999489ccdd

u/yakk0 · 2 pointsr/podcasting

there isn't a mixer that takes USB mics, I'm pretty happy with the Behringer X1204USB I got last december. I'd also recommend the AT2005 USB mic. It has both USB and XLR and is usually around $60. It's a dynamic mic that works well and the mixer has the capacity to have 4 of them.

For an arm, I have a cheap Newwer Mic Boom that works well, but I don't think it'd hold up under a lot of stress. It's a good starter though and has a XLR cable built into it.

u/BeguilingOrbit · 2 pointsr/podcasts

I'm assuming you have a decent computer. If so, then an Audio-Technica ATR-2100USB or one of its equivalents -- AT2005 or Samson Q2U -- is the way to go. They're all "basically" the same, so get whatever's cheapest at the time of purchase. the 2100 does have a lifetime warranty while the others don't. They frequently go on sale.

u/sunkast · 2 pointsr/podcasting

Personally I like the Audio Technica AT2005USB. It comes with a little stand and a USB cable. It works extremely well when on the go. It also has a jack for your headphones and you can even plug it into a mixer via XLR, making it a very versatile mic.

If you are looking for something a little less expensive, there is the Audio Technica ATR2100USB. The audio quality is almost as good as the AT2100, but doesn't have as nice of an on/off switch or windscreen inside.

If you need even cheaper than that Knox has an AT2005 knock off. It looks and sounds nearly identical.

All 3 are dynamic cardioid mics which are usually preferable when recording in a less than ideal environment since they should pick up less room noise. I wouldn't worry as much about audio quality differences between your home studio, and anything you use while on vacation. Most listeners understand you can't bring your home studio on the road.


Also full disclosure, the Amazon links are affiliate links for GFQ Network, the podcast network I work for.

u/theZacharyWebb · 2 pointsr/podcasts

The Audio-Technica ATR2100/AT2005/Samson Q2U are very good podcasting microphones, and are versatile by having both USB and XLR connections.

The Zoom H6 is a good recorder. If you want to save money, get a Behringer mixer (1-XLR, 2-XLR, 4-XLR) and a Zoom H1 to record with.

The Audio-Technica ATH-M30x or ATH-M40x are good headphones.

Get any pop filter that fits your price. A Neewer boom arm is OK for podcasting (that's what I use), but the next step up is a Blue Compass, Rode PSA-1, or Heil PL-2T.

The Neewer boom arm comes with a plastic shock mount.

Monoprice.com has pretty good quality cables for cheap, but price almost equals quality for audio cables.

Audacity is a good audio editor.

Check out Better Podcasting, The Audacity to Podcast, School of Podcasting, The Feed, and Podcasters' Roundtable for podcast advice. Pod Squad is a Discord server that I help moderate where you can also get more help from other podcasters.

u/Norther_Winslow · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I have this http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT2005USB-Cardioid-Dynamic-Microphone/dp/B007JX8O0Y
got it not too long ago and I absolutely love it. The sound quality is quite good however not as good as a nice condenser mic. The Blue Snowball and Blue Yeti are very popular mic's in your price range as well. I would suggest checking out some reviews.

I switched to the dynamic mic over my condenser mic because they tend to be less sensitive to background noise, vibration and environmental factors at the expense of a little bit of quality. I was using a very decent condenser mic I had from doing music stuff years ago but I was running it through a Blue Icicle XLR to USB adapter and that thing was less than amazing.

Also, ideally you want to isolate the mic from your desk to reduce keyboard noise, so if you're going to be recording voice over while you play you don't really want to be using the small stands most Podcaster style mics come with. Boom stands and broadcaster arms are what you want to take a look at, as well as shock mounts and you'll want a pop filter or windscreen too, you're probably looking at around $30 bucks for all that stuff at the low end. The essential bit is the pop filter/windscreen but those are very inexpensive (a wire hanger and some panty hoes will make a good pop filter in a pinch).

Will $100 buy a "great" mic? No, not really haha. But it will buy you a very good mic and on top of that you can tweak your recording a bit to bring out an even better sound if you're inclined to do that. Once you're past the $100 mark there's a bit of a diminishing return on the investment in my opinion and there are tons of things you can do to improve your audio before you drop $500 on an amazing pro mic. I wouldn't suggest going beyond your current budget for your first mic, you will learn a ton about your voice and audio recording once you get into it. From there you will be able to make a much more informed decision if you choose to upgrade down the line.

u/peacemonger69 · 2 pointsr/podcasting

You should check out the Audio Technica AT2005USB.
http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT2005USB-Cardioid-Dynamic-Microphone/dp/B007JX8O0Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422575453&sr=8-1&keywords=at2005usb&pebp=1422575470744&peasin=B007JX8O0Y&pebp=1422575470829&peasin=B007JX8O0Y&pebp=1422575470933&peasin=B007JX8O0Y
It's about $60 on Amazon. USB and XLR. The guy over at http://creamyradioaudio.com highly recommends it. He and his co-hosts use them on a live, nationally syndicated radio show. The are some other great tips there also. He says to stay away from the blue yeti.

u/CloudDrone · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

Just a heads up: The seiren bundle is almost like the Beats of microphones. Okay not that bad, but still. It looks good (if you like a big razer logo on your mic). The features don't come close to matching the price though.

50% off makes it a reasonable package, but at stock price its essentially a much more expensive Blue Yeti. The reviews for the essential hardware lead me to believe this one gets a little thin if you compare it to the audio technica USB mic at the $130 pricepoint..

As for the pop filter and shock mount, as I have mentioned elsewhere, Your biggest reduction in unwanted sound will come from getting a boom mic. It reduces vibrations and, more importantly, allows you to place the microphone at a proper distance from your mouth. With the proper placement, the mic signal is hot, so you're not turning up the gain to sound intelligible, which in turn increases the ambient noise. The pop filter can be useful, but the seiren filter is needlessly expensive, for something you can make at home. Shockmounts will be relevant only if you for some reason need to adjust and move the mic stand all the time. A boom stand eliminates the need.

What I'm saying is, although you're technically getting a deal, There are other choices you can find with more bang for your buck, if all you need is a mic to record your voice for gameplay streaming or VOIP for games. If your budget is $150 dollars I would say to get either the audiotechnica (a reputable and affordable audio company) or the Blue Yeti, and buy a heavy duty boom mic stand.

Now don't let me stop you from spending the money the way you want, but I just thought I would throw out my two cents on the matter since I had the time.

[EDIT] Just throwing this out there, I would buy this mic before any of the ones we talked about: http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATR2100-USB-Cardioid-Dynamic-Microphone/dp/B004QJOZS4

or this: http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT2005USB-Cardioid-Dynamic-Microphone/dp/B007JX8O0Y

u/throwawaytrumibadru · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

I haven't used Audacity for anything other than recording, but overall I think it works really well!
Yes, VNC works, I forgot about it, thanks.
I'll look into that script, although my scripting/programming skills are virtually non-existent, so it looks a little confusing to me, haha.

edit: just in case, I'm using this mic AT2005USB and the pi's USB is powerful enough to drive it! (I just have the mic and a mouse plugged in, nothing else).

u/siacn · 2 pointsr/microphones

I recently faced this exact same issue. I game in my basement where it's fairly noisy. So, what I ended up getting is the below list. It works great and does a really good job of not picking up my KUL-87 MX Clear keyboard, the clothes washer/dryer, HVAC, my noisy overclocked computer, and so on.


You can use this with just USB or also go the XLR route into a audio interface where you can use compression, cutoffs, and other features to improve things even better. For a time I did this using my ZOOM H5 but right now I am actually going XLR then directly into my soundcard via a XLR to 3.5mm adapter. My Soundblaster Z has some fun software "enhancements" for mics that I can use this way.


Audio-Technica AT2005USB https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007JX8O0Y

Foam Ball-Type Mic Windscreen https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002GXF8Q

K&M 23200 Table Microphone Stand https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NTZKH6

On Stage MY-420 Studio Microphone Shock Mount https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AUSOAW


u/NoPlayJack · 2 pointsr/Twitch

Completely agree with Egsession. IMO mic quality is just as important as video quality when streaming. I use this fairly inexpensive but high quality mic by Audio-Technica.

​

Edited: fixed link.

u/nksharp · 2 pointsr/Twitch

While looking at getting a new mic it was between the yeti and the at2020 for me. I went with the AT2020 because most people said the yeti was hard to fit into a shockmount, the at2020 was fairly difficult to get into the shockmount I am currently using as well.

The stand I had purchased came with the shockmount :

http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-40037799-Broadcast-Microphone-Suspension/dp/B00AK7SKL4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406177637&sr=8-1&keywords=Microphone+Suspension+Boom+Scissor

No clue if the yeti would fit in the shockmount or not but to get the at2020 in I had to pry the thing open pretty wide, just need to figure out what to do with this XLR cable it came with (either cut it or figure out how to get it out I suppose).

u/TheMetaLink · 2 pointsr/battlestations

I went with the cheapest mic stand that had an integrated xlr cable. After having it for a few months I wouldn't recommend it, but HERE is the link. The RODE PSA1 would be another great option

u/Wh1t · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Happy Zambambo!

And my item would have to be this broadcast studio microphone boom. Unf.

Also, happy birthday and good eats and drinks to you and your fiance!

u/QuipA · 2 pointsr/headphones

> the V-Moda Boompro

can't be used with the K7XX. The Boom Pro requires a non-recessed 3,5mm.

> AntLion ModMic

Good choice for the K7XX for gaming. I used to use one, but the additional 2nd wire got annoying.

> Blue Snowball (ICE)

That's what I'm using now. There are two versions of the Snowball. The more expensive one features 3 pick up patterns and you'll never use two of them. Get the ICE version for regular VoIP and gaming purposes it is excellent. If you have a mechboard people will LOVE you!

If you want to get really crazy with an excellent set up:

u/RaN96 · 2 pointsr/leagueoflegends

If you want the premium arm get the Rode PSA1. It's the one pictured in the album above and it's amazing. I've had it for about 8 months and I love it. You could go for the cheaper options like this one or this one. Personally I went with the PSA1 because if I'm going to be putting a $150 mic on this I need to be sure the arm can sustain the weight. So far it's been great.

u/VG-Rahkwal · 2 pointsr/letsplay

I try to say this everytime I see the Blue Yeti come up. If you want to add peripherals (i.e. mic stand, shock mount, etc), it will be very expensive.

Blue's microphone peripherals are first party only, so the prices on them can get jacked up a lot. A shockmount will run you about $80, which is comparable to the price of the mic. Meanwhile, the average shockmount for another mic, like the AT2020 is often bundled with other accessories, and will run a lot less.

To compare:

Full accessories for AT2020: Link $50

Same accessories for Blue Yeti: Mic Arm, Shockmount. Total: $140

Granted these are Canadian prices, but it translates pretty well to American dollars.

u/Svx_blue · 2 pointsr/podcast

The mxl website lists the 990 @ .5443 kg.

Really Any stand with a boom attachment should work. If you are still worried about the stand tipping over you can put some weight on the stand legs or you can look into a boom that attaches to your desk. Like this one Neewer Broadcast Studio Microphone Suspension Boom. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AK7SKL4/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_0DbSub0H344YE

u/SaxyGeek · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I personally use this one because it's cheap and reaches decently far. I also have a cheap pop filter which was kinda hard to fixate and get to stay in place, but nothing a bit of tape couldn't handle :P

u/Slug0 · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

I have this mic, got this stand for it: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AK7SKL4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Only thing bad about it so far is one of the tightening screws giving out, so twisting it loosens the bit that holds the mic at an angle, but this only happened recently, and I've had the stand since January. But I bought it for $26 :(

If you don't mind some soldering, you could put the USB cable through where the XLR is running, but you probably won't be able to also fit in your headphone cable if you plan to plug into this mic (which is a thing you can do, and have the mic playback your voice in real time to you). Mic also has a volume wheel on it if you plug your headphones into it.

u/illhaveanotherplease · 2 pointsr/hometheater

These would work very well for you. They are powered speakers so all you need to do is connect them to your tv with a cable and enjoy.

https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-CR4-Pair-Reference-Multimedia/dp/B00KVEIY4O/

u/ButterMilk116 · 2 pointsr/Beatmatch

Here's a few solid choices:

Presonus 3.5"

Mackie 3" (I have these and love them, though I kind of wish I got the 4" version)

Mackie 4"

Also keep in mind there is a bluetooth version of each of the Mackie's if that appeals to you. Mackie's customer service was good to me too. My CR3's started going out randomly around the time the 1-year warranty was about to expire and they sent me new ones for free. I've had the new ones for over a year and they're still going strong.

u/jclim00 · 2 pointsr/indieheads

Big fan of the Mackie CR4 desktop monitors. Very affordable, pretty detailed, only complaint is the bass is a bit more quantity over quality but it kicks the ass out of any cheap computer speakers out there. Headphone-wise, currently only own Sennheiser HD 595s for that nice, warm neutral sound and Etymotic HF5s for on the go.

u/ITXorBust · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Here's a menu for you: budget, modest, and fun!

u/homeboi808 · 2 pointsr/hometheater

If you are talking about this Vizio model, then it will be adequate. Vizio also sells it with a wireless subwoofer and two wired surrounds for $230.

If you want true bookshelf speakers (much better quality sound), you can get these Micca's for $120 or these Mackie's for $150. Those are powered monitors, meaning they have an amp inside so you just plug and play (you need speaker wire to connect the two speakers together). It also allows future upgradability to a subwoofer if you use RCA splitters from the tv. These will sound much better than any soundbar in the price range and will give you better stereo seperarion. However, if you want sub-bass (bass you feel), you will need a subwoofer. So, you could always get one down the road.

To summarize:

A. $150 for better than tv speakers.

B. $230 for decent 5.1 .

C. ~$120-$150 for much better than tv speakers. Subwoofer addition also possible.

EDIT: If you normally have people sitting at a large angle from the tv (say 45° and lower, 90° being directly in front), the soundbar option is more suited for that, as it has a center channel speaker (stereo would have dialogue coming from both, obviously, so if you are at an angle, the closer speaker will hit you sooner and louder).

u/adayinalife · 2 pointsr/vinyl

You can also just buy powered speakers as such

u/SoaDMTGguy · 2 pointsr/audiophile

I put some more time into researching a solution for you:

  • Speakers: [Mackie CR4 - $149.99](https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-CR4-* Pair-Reference-Multimedia/dp/B00KVEIY4O)

  • Subwoofer: Polk Audio PSW505 - $179.99

    Explanation:

    There are a wide variety of quality active monitors for $149.99. I don't have experience with the Mackie's myself, but it is a trusted brand, and they are well reviewed.

    Finding a good subwoofer in this price bracket is very challenging. You already have a halfway decent sub with your Logitech system, so I needed to find something that would be worth the upgrade. Many subs in this price range have under powered amplifiers, or use misleading marketing to make them seem better than they are.

    Polk makes quality products, I used to own an entire Polk home theater system. The Polk sub offers a large 12" driver (important for hitting low bass, which is the whole point). It is capable of playing without distortion at lower frequencies than just about everything in it's class, and it has a more powerful amplifier than most other subs in it's class.
u/a1exi · 2 pointsr/vinyl

I've got an sl-6 and I just bought a digitrac 300se cartridge. Sounds fantastic, but it cost me around £90 off ebay. Before that though I had an Audio technica AT92E that sounded great.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Audio-Technica-AT-92ECD-P-MOUNT-CARTRIDGE/dp/B00006HO3L/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1394323487&sr=8-5&keywords=at+92e

u/checkerdamic · 2 pointsr/vinyl

The Audio Technica AT92ECD is very cheap ($20) P mount cartridge.

u/LionsMouth · 2 pointsr/vinyl

Do you have pics of the TT? These things were sold as p-mounts and with a standard headshell as well.

If you want a cheap p-mount cart, buy this:

https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT92ECD-Universal-Replacement-Cartridge/dp/B00006HO3L/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1466801314&sr=8-2&keywords=at+pmount+cartridge

I'd do that before buying a crappy replacement stylus for the cart you already have. It's pretty much the cheapest decent cart on the market right now AFAIK.

u/Antwan1995 · 2 pointsr/vinyl
u/tonyviv · 2 pointsr/vinyl

The cantilever (shaft) is bent so the stylus is ruined. That's a Sony cartridge and isn't very good anyway so just get a whole new cartridge. The Sony headshell should be fine but you can replace it with a Technics if you want for $20 http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003DY5Q4K/. Under $50 budget cartridges that are good for the money:

$20 http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006HO3L/

$35 http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WYROYE0/

$40 http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004NRVUMI/

Lastly, you can get a copy of the owners manual and service manual here if you create an account http://www.vinylengine.com/library/technics/sl-d2.shtml.

u/batpigworld · 2 pointsr/hometheater

This is what you want:

Rolls MX51S Mini Mix 2 Four-Channel Stereo Line Mixer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BG2S6/

u/Anwn · 2 pointsr/ZReviews

You need a mixer and you will need to do all the mixing in analog.

This is the one that was recommended to me:

https://www.amazon.com/Rolls-MX51S-Four-Channel-Stereo-Mixer/dp/B0002BG2S6/

You will need to get an analog signal from all your devices, feed them into the mixer, adjust levels and then send the mixed signal to your amp.

Not sure about cross posting links, but you can find my question in another sub about 11 days ago.

u/StealthSecrecy · 2 pointsr/NoStupidQuestions

Oh that's easy then! You can get splitters like this where you can just flip back and forth between the inputs when you want. Some others may come with a remote.

If you really want to just have both always on I believe you'd need a mixer like this one but they are more expensive than a simple splitter.

u/wordsarepegs · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Thanks. I really appreciate it! Your suggestion seems like a bit overkill for an audio pleb like myself. Would something like this work just as well for my purposes?

u/allannon · 2 pointsr/AskBattlestations

Regarding KVM (keyboard, video, mouse), 3 basic options (in no particular order):

  • KVM switch (switches 1 or more monitors, plus the keyboard and mouse, between computers), or a USB switch to only the keyboard/mouse, and the monitors directly-conencted

  • Synergy (or similar software); this sorta does like the USB switch option, except you don't have to "switch" between, just move the mouse between monitors, but it does require network connectivity between the "server" and "client" systems (probably the PC is the server and the Mac is the client, so the PC works if the Mac's off doing something elsewhere)

  • Just remote into one of the two (probably the Mac from the PC, since the PC's static) and fullscreen the session; latency shouldn't be a concern on a local network, and you could use both monitors for the desktop if the Mac's not currently needed

    Number 3 would probably be my solution. About 90% of my work is remoted into a system somewhere else, and it's fast and easy to Windows or Linux; I don't have experience with remote-access to Macs (they're just not a significant presence in datacenters), but I can't imagine it's all that different.

    For audio (assuming stereo, not 2.1+) get a cheap small mixer (e.g. something like this, which is just the first thing that I searched up in Google), which would (safely) let you play multiple audio streams to the same speakers.

    If you're going to use the MBP with desktop stuff often, might be worth looking into a dock of some sort. That way you only have 1-2 cables, instead of at least 4.
u/cthart · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

That's more like it. In fact, I just came back here to post a link to that and say "something like this": amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BG2S6

u/megamanexent · 2 pointsr/ZReviews

I got this in January: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002BG2S6/

Nothing but good things to say at 55 dollars. You may want more channels but with 3 rca one being a 1/8in combo input plus XLR, it was plenty for me. No noise from it when I plugged it into my Audiosource 100 amp ie: properly grounded. There was noise, very tiny, but noise none the less when plugged into the wall

u/sir5ur · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Sorry I forgot to link :x. This is the one I use in my setup rolls mixer. I have my computer, Nintendo switch, and music all routed through it. I was tired of switching devices or not being able to get them through my speakers or headphones at the same time. What's cool about it is that you can run it to an amp or just plug in headphones and switch between them at will. It's obviously a more expensive solution though.

Edit: and you could then run the audio from the switch's display to the unit as rca and from the computer to the unit as rca and you wouldn't need to mess with the 3.5mm plug all the time. Then you have the option of using one or both devices without any configuration.

Btw sweet rig, hope that helps!

u/mr_libro · 2 pointsr/gadgets

Don't forget the isolation pads if you purchase those.

u/23knives · 2 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

Neumann KH120s! i have those moniters haha they're bomb-ass titties.

get some Auralex isolation pads for that shit though, 40 bucks.

u/ChinosandStanSmiths · 2 pointsr/AVexchange

My thoughts exactly...

With $360 you can get
the updated version of these speakers + isolation pads + wires

Or buy some red speakers lol

u/stewie410 · 2 pointsr/battlestations

I have, and can recommend, Auralex pads, which are available on Amazon and places like Sweetwater

Just make sure you get the right size for your monitors—I got the regular size for my KRK RP5G2s, but you would need the XLs for 8” monitors.

u/one2mny · 2 pointsr/vinyl

Oh no, you don't sound rude at all. I'm new to this. So far no skips, but I haven't cranked the volume to high. Is it just the vibrations that can cause issues? I know that the there are some monitor/speaker stands that can help with this, like these: http://www.amazon.com/Auralex-Monitor-Acoustic-Isolation-Charcoal/dp/B0002D0B4K

What do you think? Should I get free standing stands for them?

u/thecommanman · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

I have tower speakers on hardwood floors and use Auralex MoPads. These pads can take up to 100lbs so it’s should work with many of the towers. I haven’t tried angling the towers.

u/Folthanos · 2 pointsr/audiophile

I'm assuming this is happening because you're currently placing your speakers directly on the table (correct me if I'm wrong). What you can do is either place isolation pads underneath your speakers or put them on stands.

The latter option should eliminate most of the reflected sound you're hearing. The goal behind both of these methods is to angle the speakers towards your ears instead of the tabletop and reduce the amount of reflected soundwaves from the table to a minimum, which should improve stereo imaging and produce a more even frequency response.

u/josecouvi · 2 pointsr/goodmythicalmorning

The mic looks like a Shure SM7B and the headphones are the Sony MDR-7506.

u/panik-at-the-disco · 2 pointsr/NHLHUT
u/dman81 · 2 pointsr/Twitch

This seems to be a popular one. Blue Yeti USB Microphone - Blackout Edition https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N1YPXW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_F3eazb565E53S

This is the one I want to get
Shure SM7B Vocal Dynamic Microphone, Cardioid https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002E4Z8M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_c5eazbXZ73MRP

u/FalseProof · 2 pointsr/letsplay

Off the top of my head:

Dynamics

Shure SM58 (go for the one without on/off switch)

Shure SM57 (ONLY DO THIS IF YOU KNOW MIC PLACEMENT AND HAVE A POP FILTER OR WIND SCREEN; SM58 is better for voice but SM57's are a bit cheaper)

Shure SM7B

Electrovoice RE27

Sennheiser MD421

Sennheiser MD441

Condensers

Audio-Technica AT2020

Audio-Technica AT4050

Audio-Technica AT4040

Everything else is $500+. This is mostly a low-end choice selection to buying XLR microphones.

u/lemlurker · 2 pointsr/apexlegends

youll probably need a standalone mic and pass through an audio input. sdtone mountain 64 does audio changes (for pebble hill and CO roleplay) his website says he uses a Roland VT3 with a Shure SM7B mic. any headset with it built in will have even less of the fine tuning youre after

u/JAWS_OF_FIRE · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

This mic stand is pretty good, but I can't really recommend it for the Yeti. The Yeti is a bit heavy and if you extend the arm on the stand it won't be able to hold the mic up. I've solved this with a very inelegant counterweight.

The monitor stands are really great. They're strong and very versatile. Would recommend.

u/mysticrecluse · 2 pointsr/Rockband

Heh. Well then.

I'm apparently blind. Sorry about that.

Edit: This is what I have: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000978D58/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_AiXGxbB7X7NN3

Don't know why I didn't post it sooner.

Edit: Edit: yeah, I'm just going to shut up now. :P This is the same link the other guy posted. Lol good luck searching for a mic stand though!

u/Mert7 · 2 pointsr/oculus

I suppose you could clip the cable on a Microphone Boom Tripod that should be high enough to be over head so you can spin around a bit with out it getting caught up in your chair.

u/pookin · 2 pointsr/boardgames

A basic checklist

Cameras

Would recommend 2, one for the board and one for the players (Recommend either the Logitech 920 or 930)

Microphone

Need one good mic don't use built in mics (laptops or web cameras). (Recommend a Blue Yeti)

Software

OBS is free to use and will do everything you need.

Lighting

This is not needed but highly recommended as normal lighting tends to create a lot of glare off the board having lights with diffusers helps fix that issue.

Camera Stand

Need some sort of rig to get the over head shot. We use a mic stand with an adaptor
__

A basic set up will probably cost around $200-300. Our setup cost a lot more than that but we have a very complicated set up for our stream.

As for reading chat you can use the laptop if it is in view or sign onto Twitch via your phone to see chat.

Let me know if you have any other question.

u/MaxMonsterGaming · 2 pointsr/Twitch

Hey. I have an AT2020 and have been using it with a desk mount. I was wondering mic stand are you using because I am thinking of purchasing this one?

u/ChelatedMonoxide · 2 pointsr/recording

Yes, there are recorders that can record multiple tracks. Like the Tascam DR-40 has XLR inputs. I'm not necessarily endorsing the Tascam. I have the DR-05 and find it acceptable quality. Something like the Zoom H4N has XLR connectors built in, so you could record a mic into those and use the built in condenser mics to record your guitar.

You left out some relevant information: Budget, can your guitar be plugged in or will you mic it? Do you have a pretty sound free workspace?

I think budget is the most important part here. I interpret 'nothing flashy' as being a cheap as it can get without being poor quality.

I'm gonna link to listings on Amazon because it's easiest, but B&H or if you live near a Guitar Center might be a better place to buy.

A possible setup:

  • ART Dual USB Preamp - $80 - This will allow you to plug in one mic and your guitar and output the track to your computer via USB. Depending on the software, I believe you can have the tracks separate for editing, but they would separate into left and right channels that you'd then combine into a stereo track after editing.


  • Shure SM58 - $100 - A dynamic vocal mic that will play well in a not so perfect recording space. Check out Regina Spektor using one during a concert. This mic is so popular I would make sure to only get it from a reputable dealer i.e. not used on ebay, because there are fakes floating around.

    If you need/want to mic your guitar then consider the SM-57. It is nearly identical to the SM58. Here is a guy demonstrating using one to record his guitar.

  • If $100 is insanely out of your budget, then consider the Behringer XM8500 - $20 - Not as high quality as the SM58, but still a decent sound. Here is a guy comparing the SM57 to the XM8500 and is using just one mic for voice and guitar, without using a preamp, so keep that in mind when comparing the audio (I hear some noise in the audio, probably noise from the line to the camera, which I presume has some sort of automatic gain happening).

    This guy's video makes me wonder if just an SM57 with a decent preamp (i.e. one with clean gain) might be all you'd need... but that isn't ideal. You could go with two XM8500s, one for guitar and one for vocals ($40). Or one SM58 for vocals and one XM8500 for guitar($120). That all comes down to budget and preferences.

  • You'll need a mic stand, or two. The On-Stage MS7701B is a best seller on Amazon. I own one of these and it isn't going to impress anyone. I've never had it tip over or seem unsteady. If you extend the boom arm too far it can sometimes slowly droop over time (I may be guilty of not tightening it enough due to not wanting to strip the threads) It does the job of holding a mic in place. If you go with two mics, you could get two of them. You could also get a desk stand for the mic that is recording your guitar and find a suitable place to set it, but I think the boom arm of the MS7701B will be useful for keeping the stand out of your way.

  • And you will need cables. I recommend the cables from Monoprice, their Pro Audio series. It is not as user friendly to find the exact cables you'll need as a site like B&H, but I have had several of their cables and only had one die on me. All their cables have a lifetime warranty and the prices are shockingly low.

  • And a windscreen or pop filter for the mics is nice. There is a decent windscreen on Amazon for 3 bucks, sometimes 2 bucks.

    Potential Changes & other thoughts -

    A more expensive preamp - ART Tube Dual Mic Preamp With USB - $190- this has some compression and a limiter. It's debatable whether in this range it would be better to get a decent mixer, a preamp for your vocals, and let the preamp on the mixer handle the guitar, or if something like this would be better. Like a Behringer mixer - Q802USB ($80) + ART single channel Preamp for vocals ($40/$50) would be less money than the Dual USB preamp.

    Or maybe just the Q802USB would suffice for your needs. It has preamps already built in. They are not the best preamps in the world. I mean... after all I wrote above, the more I think about it the more I think you should try a Q802USB and see if the sound is what you're wanting.

    Headphones - Add in some headphones to monitor your audio. ATH-M40x ($100) would be my recommendation, but this is where a lot of personal preference comes into the mix, no pun intended.

    Different mics - Rode has some mics that compare the the Shure SM57/58 that might be better. And the options for mic are virtually limitless, when you consider not just the mics can vary, but the audio interfaces and processing options. I really think a dynamic mic will be most user friendly for a one off home recording.

    I hope I haven't confused more than I helped. I think the essentials are this: good mics, clean gain, easy to use. Whether you get the dual channel ART preamp or the Q802USB, either will be easy to use. I would bet the gain on the ART preamp is cleaner, meaning less background hiss at higher levels, than the Q802USB, but perhaps that is just an unreasonable bias. In either case, the mic is going to be important and where your budget plays a big role. The SM58 and SM57 are superb for vocals and recording guitar. A condenser might be better if the acoustics of your recording space allow for it, but I hope you saw from the video I linked of the guy recording his guitar with the SM57 that a great sound can be achieved with a $100 mic. If that is out of your budget, keep in mind the XM8500, but the sound is not as clear as the Shure mics it tries to emulate.
u/RunawayRobotGaming · 2 pointsr/letsplay

I use a really standard "On Stage Stands" floor stand, works perfectly with my Blue Yeti! On Stage Stands MS7701B Tripod Boom Microphone Stand

u/Riposte_This · 2 pointsr/Twitch

at2020 and a Behringer 502 USb mixer.

As for the shock mount and mic stand. The AT2020 XLR comes with a mount that will screw on to any 5/8th mic stand thread. If you really want to go with a shock mount, than I ordered the Neewer shock mount, it was like 8 bucks, thing works great and fits the AT2020 perfectly.

Here are a couple links
http://www.amazon.ca/Technica-AT2020-Cardiod-Condensor-XLRM-type/dp/B0006H92QK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1420340421&sr=8-2&keywords=at2020

http://www.amazon.ca/Behringer-Q502USB-Premium-5-Input-2-Bus/dp/B008O516JW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420340440&sr=8-1&keywords=behringer+502+usb

http://www.amazon.ca/NEEWER%C2%AE-Black-Universal-Microphone-Bearable/dp/B00C86FA0E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420340455&sr=8-1&keywords=neewer+shock

http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000978D58?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00

You will also need an XLR cable, look for one with Neutrik connectors. I'm not sure how many of those ship to Aussie, but that is my setup and I love it.

u/prostudioreviews · 2 pointsr/headphones

> If I'm thinking about this right... if a dual entry headphone is not on the end, wouldn't you have to slide off the other headphones first to get it off?

Oh, ya' got me. Actually, I can slide two off the end with one hand, and then put one back. I'm not looking to be a gunslinger. But I also don't want to have to get super involved just to put on a pair of headphones, and then put them back for safe storage.

But, with what you and /u/Tryhard_TJ commented on, then hanging the dual entry cans near the ends would solve that problem.

Here's a good, solid boom mic stand.

http://www.amazon.com/Stage-Stands-MS7701B-Tripod-Microphone/dp/B000978D58/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451588185&sr=8-1&keywords=on+stage+boom+mic+stand

u/xx2000xx · 2 pointsr/hometheater

Well kind of the same deal, but my point still stands. I meant a boom mic with the adapter which is basically the same damn thing but a longer arm. The thing folds up and I haven't used mine in a while and I always think it's a tripod which it basically is.

I still think I'd win in court because it's logistics and tangible difference is putting it mildly, more like, after reading all the nuances of how to actually run audyssey, and no you don't pick up whatever shitty thing they give you and plop it in 8 different spots and think it'll be fine, you probably made it even worse actually because it's crazy precise and beyond amazing. The Judge would make you eat your hat unless you have a great lawyer.

Denon actually pays them to let them use it and it's the best in the world and you don't know how lucky you are to actually have the top of the line too. Take a pic or let me see your distance levels between the speakers and then just the Audyssey specs on the levels.

Here is what to get:

https://www.amazon.com/Stage-Stands-MS7701B-Tripod-Microphone/dp/B000978D58 - Boom/Tripod

https://www.amazon.com/CM01-Camera-Digital-Recorder-Adapter/dp/B001GWCC4I/ -- mic mount

The adapter that goes in the end and you screw in the mic perfectly and then you are ready to rock and roll to set it at perfect ear level, swivel it in 3 different positions so you don't have to go crazy by making sure all the positions are equal. Plus if you have a couch or recliner or something you can kind of work around it as best you can. So when you read the forums that is what they'll tell you to get too, although they are crazy over on AVS so I bet they will tell you to get some $200 boom mic/Tripod but that is just fine and what we've (people on avs) have been using for years, although I haven't been keeping up with the latest info the past few years. There are a few vids on youtube that I saw a year or two a go using a boom mic, which is how you do it, but I can only imagine the finer points of your setting.

I have a 4k TV that my 7.1 Denon doesn't display a picture at all, but that's not a problem for me because I remember ever single little setting on the receiver by heart so it's not even an issue for me and running it just fine through HDMI from computer to receiver then back to TV while still keeping all the bitstreaming and lossless formats which makes me think I can hold off even though I'm starring at the $500 3400H in my cart right now and it's a hell of a deal but with the new models coming out I'm sure we'll see it again.

u/PaVaSteeler · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

I've seen people use lights like that, but have never used one myself, so I can't comment.

​

This is what I built; it's an LED light stand; I found all the parts on Amazon (US):

Bulb mounts - $10.90

Tripod dolly - $39.99

Tripod Boom Microphone stand - $24.95

Screw Adapter - $3.95

Tripod screw mount adapters - $5.11

Par 38 5000k Daylight LED bulbs - $26.99

u/flyingsonofagun · 2 pointsr/piano

Now get 2x of these: https://www.amazon.com/JBL-Professional-Next-Generation-Powered-305PMKII/dp/B077N2GQXC/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=jbl+305&qid=1571172889&sr=8-2

​

And behold the overtones that you didn't even know existed. You probably have to keep a headphone adapter in the piano to turn off the internal speakers, but thats a tiny price to pay for awesome audio.

u/Zeeall · 2 pointsr/audiophile

I think you can get JBL 305 mk2 for around that.


Edit: Yup, $89 each!
https://www.amazon.com/JBL-Professional-Next-Generation-Powered-305PMKII/dp/B077N2GQXC/

u/polypeptide147 · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

These (you need to order two)

or

these miccas

or

these edifiers which have a pretty good deal going on right now.

u/StargatePioneer · 2 pointsr/podcasts

A Zoom H5 might work better for you as it has the two XLR inputs just like the Zoom H4n but you also have the option of using the onboard XYH-5 capsule, or change it out for two extra XLR inputs using the EXH-6 capsule , or getting close up sound effected using the SGH-6 shotgun microphone capsule. The downside is that it comes in a wee bit more expensive than the Zoom H4n for the base model and the capsules are extra after that aside from the XYH-5 which comes with the H-5.

u/ThatSoundGuyChris · 2 pointsr/leagueoflegends

Okay this is going to be a long post, so here goes.

​

If you really want to get into sound design, youre going to need a few essentials. A DAW (Digital Audio Workstation), an audio interface, a handheld recorder, and a microphone.




DAWs

As far as a DAW goes, there's a few alternatives you can go with. I personally use Avid Pro Tools for near everything I do, but also mess around with Reaper. I've found that most studios will use one of these two. Most DAWs will have a pretty steep learning curve, so be ready for that.

Pro Tools First is the free version of Pro Tools. It has a lot of limitations, but for starting out it should be fine. If you want less limitations it costs big money, but I'm sure you can find a crack or two as long as you don't use it commercially.

Reaper is starting to grow on me lately. You can customize it to your needs, and the full version is only $60. You can also just deal with a popup everytime you open the program for ten seconds and use it for free. I mainly prefer Pro Tools over this because the video engine in Pro Tools is much better. But for batch editing multiple sound files, Reaper is muuuuuch better.

​

Audio Interface

This basically takes over as an intermediary between high quality audio and your computer. You can plug a microphone right into it to record sound straight to your computer. You can do this with a USB microphone as well, but the quality is a million times better with one of these.
I would recommend either the Behringer UMC22 or the more advanced Focusrite Scarlett Solo. Both will do the trick, I just prefer the mic pres on the Focusrite a bit more.


Handheld Recorder
Handheld recorders allow you to record anything you want to without having to deal with any cables. They should be compact but durable.

The Tascam DR-40 is a great intro recorder. It was the first recorder I got 5 years ago, and it still holds up. I've dropped this thing so many times and it still powers through.
Another favorite is the Zoom H4N. This was a favorite among most of my classmates as it was the one my school supplied, but I didn't feel like going through the checkout process all the time so I saved up and got the Tascam. It has a newer version, the Zoom H6, which is pretty slick, but comes at a higher price point. It also comes with some interchangeable microphone capsules so you can get different types of recordings. I'll cover more of this later.
I'll leave off with the recorder I have now, the Sony PCM-M10. This thing is a godsend. It's discontinued due to a newer version coming out, but you can find this guy on eBay for around $300-400. It's smaller than a phone, and the sound quality is amazing. If you have the money to shell out for this guy, definitely go for it. Every sound designer inn the industry I know swears by it.


Microphone

So the first thing you need to know is that there's a load of different microphone types. Its a lot to cover, so I'm just going to link you to this article that will cover the basics of what you need to know. Basically I would recommend different microphones for different things, all depending on what you're trying to capture.
A good all-around microphone is the Shure SM57/Shure SM58. They're essentially both the same microphone. But these things will LAST. Like,people have run over them with trucks and they sound fine. Definitely a good starting point

For vocal recordings, I would recommend the Rode NT1A. This mic is a great starting point for capturing voice, and is durable to boot.

For capturing foley/field recording, I would go with the Rode NTG2. Its a shotgun mic with great quality for the price, and never let me down in all the years Ive been using it. I won its successor, the NTG3, in the Riot Creative Contest a few years back, but still use the NTG2 from time to time when I need to.


Some Extra Stuff


Theres a lot of cool, free plugins out there. I've used both Blue Cat's and Melda's plugins, and they all get the job done with a bit of tweaking.

As far as building up a sound library goes, I would recommend recording literally everything you can around you and playing with those sounds with plugins as a good starting point for building up a library. There's a few resources out there that give out free SFX every once in a while, GDC has had a bundle go up for 2016, 2017, 2018 and 2019. You can also check out the BBC Sound Effects Library. Be careful about getting libraries and bundles though, as they add up quick. I have to go through my sound library soon, and I probably have around 500,00+ files but only really need a few thousand.

For all your sounds, you're going to want a file manager. A great and free one is Mutant. You just add the directory where you downloaded your sounds to, let it load them in, and voila. You can search easily for what you need.


Hopefully, all this was somewhat helpful to you, or to anyone else reading this who's interested in sound design!

u/Cartossin · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Here's a suggestion: 2x JBL LSR305 MK2; and this cable. Then buy a Chromecast Audio which is about $35. (not available on amazon because they hate google). This will give you wifi connected audio you can cast to from spotify or other sources. I have 2 of these setups in my house; these speakers can play very loud.

u/kabbage123 · 2 pointsr/videography

Hi /u/nerdress -

The Rode Videomic Pro is a pretty good mic but the t3i is really, really bad for audio no matter how good the microphone. I'd strongly suggest getting an external recorder like the H4N or, at the very minimum, a H1N. You may want to pair it with a XLR shotgun mic like this if you can find the $$$.

A tripod is something that can last for many years, but the one you linked to is really bottom of the barrel. This is something I'd suggest investing a little more money into, you are going to want a universal fluid head specifically if you plan on doing video work semi-regularly. I'd get a semi-compact Manfrotto tripod like that one, you won't regret it.

Lastly, do you plan on using the kit lens? I'd suggest grabbing the famous nifty fifty. It's a legend for many reasons (super sharp, great lowlight, durable as can be).

Also you are going to want to get this battery grip for the t3i if you don't have one already. I remember when I shot on a t3i I purchased that out of whim, and I'm pretty sure I never took it off for 3+ years. It not only extends your battery, but it makes the camera much more comfortable to hold.

Hope some of this helps, sounds like you'll be in good shape! Remember, audio is just as important as video, so it's smart to invest in that type of gear.

u/teddybandit · 2 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Solo-GENERATION-Interface/dp/B00MTXU2DG


this what i got- good starting point- watch the vid on the side- it's easy/portable.

u/engi96 · 2 pointsr/audiophile

http://www.amazon.co.uk/FOCUSRITE-SCARLETT-SOLO-Audio-interfaces/dp/B00MTXU2DG/ref=sr_1_cc_3?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1414323206&sr=1-3-catcorr&keywords=focusrite

this is an interface that does both digital to analog and analog to digital, but it is half the cost of the D1 and will sound as good. behringer dont make anything worth owning.

u/unicorn_defender · 2 pointsr/audio

First, I'd like to point out that in your situation it would be redundant to run your mic through the mixer and then through another interface (unless your mixer has incredibly awesome pre-amps, which is something I'd argue most Behringer products lack).

If I were you, I'd ditch the $10 mic for a used SM58, and the Behringer usb mixer for a decent cheap interface like the PreSonus Audiobox, or if your budget permits, something from the Focusrite family.

That said, you may be able to increase your sound quality 10 fold just by upgrading the mic and leaving the XENYX. I don't have any experience with either of those products, but they are by brands I would warn any newcomer to steer clear from. Good luck!

u/unforgiven60 · 2 pointsr/Guitar

If you enjoy acoustic style playing, I feel it can be beneficial to developing a better playing style as you branch out to electric. Acoustic guitars require a little more attention to finger placement and fretting technique. Mistakes are more noticeable and you can fix those problems early before they become bad habits. Electric guitars tend to "cover" those mistakes more easily with all the effects and distortion (once playing at a high level they become more noticeable again). Things like hitting extra strings, fretting a note that is dead, etc.

I definitely regret not learning more on an acoustic first. I jumped straight into electric and never really looked back.

As for gear and making the transition to electric, it depends on what you want to do with your guitar playing.

If you are going to just play and practice by yourself at home, I recommend at least researching amp simulator software for use on a PC and getting an affordable audio interface.

I recently bought a brand new Jackson 7-string guitar for $180 (it's actually not bad either was on sale), an audio interface for ~$75 (included free DAW software, was on sale as well), and purchased a large amp/cab/effects bundle on Revalver 4 for $100. I already had headphones and a PC. I also bought studio monitors but that's neither here nor there.

I know that's over your budget but you can try most amp sim software packages for free and you can buy the amps, cabs, and effects a la carte for pretty cheap prices (a few $ each). It unlocks a huge range of sounds and possibilities and you can learn the types of amps and sounds you like. If you ever want to buy a real amp/cab, then you have a direction you would like to go.

Just for comparison, by the time you buy a guitar, some floor pedals (can range from $50-100 each), and a practice amp (which may or may not sound good at this price level), you are probably over your $300 anyway. With the software/interface option, you can have like 15 amps, probably like 25 cabs, lots of microphone sims, and tons of effect pedals inside the software for like $350.

I'm into metal as well and I've found the high gain amps and sounds in Revalver to be pretty good. Different amp sims do certain things better than others.

Good luck on your journey

u/RedMoth11 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

none of them need mic capability.
just plugging the mic in to the mic jack on the computer is fine.
unless you have a nice mic, which you would get a usb interface for.
the audio thru a mic input, is more based on the mic quality rather than the sound card quality.
usb interface: scarlet solo + mic: at2020 or usb mic at2500usb

u/tcookc · 2 pointsr/Twitch

yes! you want an USB audio interface rather than a mixer (a very common mistake people are making here)

affordable mixers have pretty cheap mic preamps in them, resulting a lot of unwanted noise. this is because mixers are used for live sound where it doesn't matter if there is lots of unwanted noise because there will be humming guitar amps and stuff overpowering the noise floor.

If using a mic at home rather than a bar, you want an interface, not a mixer. Let me know if you have more questions. here is a visual summary of the audio path (but you would just need the mic and interface, not that other fancy stuff).

u/lovesongsnhouseflies · 2 pointsr/makinghiphop

I've personally never used that interface, so you'll have to rely on the Amazon reviews (or hopefully someone here has had experience with it). The preamp (what you plug the mic into), and the mic you use, determines the sound you're going to get. Again, you're gonna have to read the reviews. You're just starting off, so I wouldn't stress it too much. You'll get a better sound than just plugging a USB mic into your computer.

If I were in your position, with a small budget, I'd save up a bit more and buy this:

http://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Solo-Compact-Interface/dp/B00MTXU2DG/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1452061607&sr=1-1&keywords=scarlett+solo

The Scarlett series, in my opinion, is the best in terms of budget audio interfaces. Their preamps, and the system, overall, is of great quality.


When you're ready for that mic - put enough together to buy sayyyy this:

http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT2020-Cardioid-Condenser-Microphone/dp/B0006H92QK/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1452061954&sr=1-1&keywords=Audio+Technica+AT2020

...and you got a good little startup.



The mic stand should fit pretty much any mic. It has both the clip, and a part to screw in the mic's shock mount (look up "shock mount").


I always recommend that you get warranty with your equipment, cause, you know...shit happens, so you should check if there're any music stores around that sell whatever you're interested in, and offer the warranty, as well.

u/KleyPlays · 2 pointsr/Guitar

Focusrite Scarlett solo and Reaper has a free trial that is really good.

u/thesnakefoot · 2 pointsr/audiophile
u/guuutbutttt · 2 pointsr/Guitar
u/m1stertim · 2 pointsr/audioengineering

For that mic, or any XLR mic, you will need an external preamp. That's why you can't use your motherboard's sound card and you need a USB sound card - just not like the one you linked. As you noted, the $5 one won't help you here.

They are more commonly called "audio interfaces," and here is a cheap example.

Alternatively, you can get a combination device - a microphone with USB out, which has a preamp built in, like this one.

More information on these basics can be found in the sidebar over there -->

u/RedPillWizard · 2 pointsr/Guitar
u/magicjohnson321990 · 2 pointsr/Guitar

Hey, I`d totally recommend this https://www.amazon.ca/AP2AC-amPlug-AC30-Guitar-Headphone/dp/B00NAUHX1G/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=pocket+amp&qid=1563342201&s=gateway&sr=8-5

​

They make ones that play different styles like metal or hard rock etc. and they have 4 or 5 different effect types you can switch between. I`ve had amps, solid state, tube, even pocket amps and I think the value of this thing is pretty much unparalleled! Good luck in your search my brother

u/myrmagic · 2 pointsr/Guitar

If you want to save for the Yamaha or a Boss Katana then try one of these for headphones. $40 and I love mine. I got the AC30 and it’s just a blast. Then when you’ve got the money for something good, get something good. I have a cheap amp that I can’t stand. It’s just not worth it

https://www.amazon.com/AP2AC-amPlug-Guitar-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00NAUHX1G/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=vox+headphone+amp&qid=1565598503&s=gateway&sprefix=vox+headp&sr=8-1

u/adfrog · 2 pointsr/guitars
u/ALienDope52 · 2 pointsr/Guitar

Why not just buy one of those little amp plug things like this vox one

u/snsv · 2 pointsr/ukulele

You can get a headphone amp for 40 dollars (or less). VOX AP2AC amPlug AC30 G2 Guitar Headphone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NAUHX1G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SuK.ybR9VS9VJ

Also as far as the ukulele. If you can swing it, the risa stick is good. I've got one

u/Dr_Irrelephant · 2 pointsr/Guitar

Vox Amplug - $40

Or go find a Fender Mustang I on Craigslist for $40

Or buy a usb interface and play through your computer

u/Rugrin · 2 pointsr/Guitar

Hello all. I'm new here.

this probably comes up all the time, but here goes:

I want to get a nice practice amp that sounds good on headphones. I currently use a VOX AC30 amplug with headphones and I plug my line in to it so I can play along with tracks on the iPhone. https://www.amazon.ca/AP2AC-amPlug-AC30-Guitar-Headphone/dp/B00NAUHX1G

I also have a Vox AD15VT, which I think is probably too much amp for me and sounds pretty bad on headphones.

What are your suggestions?

u/heavymcd · 2 pointsr/Guitar

You can get a number of headphone amps for guitar for like $30-$40. Vox makes a good one, IMO.

Using your 3.5mm adapter and microphone input on PC with an amp sim will sound like garbage. A proper interface will cost nearly as much as the amp, and free amp sim software is decent but sometimes difficult to get working properly...and leaves you tethered to your PC.

Find either a battery powered amp or headphone amp like the one I linked below. That way you can play on headphones anywhere you like.

Do not just get a regular old headphone amp, those are meant for hifi not guitar. They'll give you flat, lifeless sound. The natural harmonic distortion of even a "clean" amp is part of a guitars sound. The amplifier is part of the instrument, without it you aren't playing electric guitar. So whatever you get, make sure it's actually acting as a guitar amp.


VOX AP2AC amPlug AC30 G2 Guitar Headphone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NAUHX1G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_uHSRzbGQ9P2V9

u/AvgKirch · 2 pointsr/Twitch

$60 USD Samson Q2U: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001R747SG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PYRxDbX6NHYK4

$96 USD Behringer UMC202HD:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QHURUBE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_p3RxDbKEGEK61

Look at the manufacturer website for accurate information about specs. The Amazon listing for the 202 had info about the 404 model.

u/Kristoffer__1 · 2 pointsr/audiophile

I'd not get a dac, what you want is an audio interface.

Like for example something like this. (I've got no idea if that one is actually good or not but it's got separate volume control for headphones and speakers which is incredibly useful if you use both.)

u/seldomstatic · 2 pointsr/AudioPost
u/kyL0h · 2 pointsr/Twitch

personally i'd probably go with a scarlett solo or 202hd amp and a e835 or sm58 mic around that price point; i'm a bit of a dynamic mic fanboy though

u/errorcache · 2 pointsr/indieheads

Generally, cheaper interfaces will have worse preamps and lower bit-depth/sampling rate capabilities (try to shoot for min 48kHz/24-bit).
Behringer's interfaces with midas preamps are quite good for how cheap they are. Something like this would be good enough for pretty much anything except recording drums https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UMC202HD-BEHRINGER-U-PHORIA-2-Channel/dp/B00QHURUBE

u/blackjakals · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

An audio interface with balanced outputs would work best. The have outputs for monitors and headphones.

A DAC/Amp combo would work too, but you may get more noise.

I suggest any of the following for an interface:

https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-Onyx-Artist-1-2-Interface/dp/B07664LMPQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538615994&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=mackie+onyx+artist&dpPl=1&dpID=41g1YyxjwFL&ref=plSrch


https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UMC202HD-BEHRINGER-U-PHORIA/dp/B00QHURUBE/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538616381&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=behringer+u-phoria&dpPl=1&dpID=41LnZHDgziL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Audio-Interface-Tools/dp/B01E6T56EA/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538616639&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=scarlett+2i2&dpPl=1&dpID=41L6SD2-BwL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/Steinberg-UR22MKII-2-Channel-USB-Interface/dp/B017MVUAHM/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538616711&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=steinberg+interface&dpPl=1&dpID=41NuXCXoVGL&ref=plSrch

For a DAC/Amp combo, I suggest the following:

I personally own this and it is great.
https://www.amazon.com/Micca-OriGen-G2-Resolution-Preamplifier/dp/B01N14SY65/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1538616843&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=origen+g2&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/FX-Audio-Optical-Coaxial-Amplifier/dp/B072JJT7SF/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1538616970&sr=8-8&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=dac%2Famp&dpPl=1&dpID=41iOCuvyjdL&ref=plSrch

http://www.schiit.com/products/fulla-1


https://www.massdrop.com/buy/massdrop-o2-sdac-dac-amp

or this:
http://www.schiit.com/products/magni-1
plus this:
http://www.schiit.com/products/modi-1

u/SacredMaskMusic · 2 pointsr/homestudios

You can get a MXL 770 for under $100 and a 2-channel Behringer U-PHORIA for around $100. This will definitely be enough to get you recording. I use this set-up (mostly for recording samples and very limited vocal work, as I do electronic instrumentals for the most part) and it does the job. That leaves you $200 for accessories (you're gonna want a stand for the mic and a pop screen before you even think about acoustics). You can get an acoustic shield for well under $100. Pop screens are as low as $10 on Amazon. You can definitely stay in that budget if you're only looking to record rap vocals.

MXL Mics 770 Cardioid Condenser Microphone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007NQH98/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Hhj2CbR9JD6X1

BEHRINGER U-PHORIA UMC202HD, 2-Channel ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QHURUBE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Rij2Cb226B0WC

(I haven't actually used these two products before, just providing you with quick search results. Definitely shop around first)

LyxPro VRI-30 - Portable & Foldable Sound Absorbing Vocal Recording Panel - Stand Mount https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012OFI98I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Wkj2Cb78J3YWP

NEUMA Professional Microphone Stand with Pop Filter Heavy Duty Microphone Suspension Scissor Arm Stand and Windscreen Mask Shield for Blue Yeti Snowball, Recordings, Broadcasting, Streaming, Singing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JHCL3KS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Coj2Cb8MF5N0G

u/Widget_pls · 2 pointsr/edmproduction

Seconding a big SSD (I like the Samsung ones, and among the types of SSDs, NVMe is usually 4x the speed of SATA if you have an M.2 drive to put one in, but only really new computers will have an M.2 port.)

The SSD won't really make anything faster but really big projects with an "old" spinny hard drive can take like 3 minutes to load.

Basically if you have a true ASIO card (and not a card which is "compatible" with ASIO4ALL since all cards are but it's fake ASIO) anything with an i3 or better (i3, i5, i7, i9, Xeons at 2.4ish GHz or faster, any AMD Ryzen or Threadripper processor) is probably fine.

It's worth pointing out that Intel laptop processors are like half as powerful as desktop ones, and a laptop i5 is usually about as fast as a desktop i3 (so subtract 2 from the "i" number.) For the most part AMD doesn't have good laptop processors yet but they'll be coming soon-ish (also under the Ryzen brand.)

I'm a fan of the Behringer UMC202HD because even though Behringer's history makes their products somewhat suspect, meaning it might break after a couple years, the drivers are "good enough", the audio quality is basically flawless, and it works with condenser mics. (To be fair it's mostly their DJ equipment people hate as far as I know since their DJ stuff doesn't like to take a beating unlike most other companies'.)

Edit: On the Amazon Questions for the specific computer you linked, someone said they were able to install a Samsung Evo 970 NVMe SSD in the M.2 port it has, but it was somewhat difficult to get to (probably because there's a bunch of stuff right next to it and NVMe drives are really small - about 2/3 the size of a stick of RAM.)

u/mstrblueskys · 2 pointsr/TwinCities

I have a buddy who runs a music studio, but if you needed the space, he'd definitely set it up for a podcast interview.

I do tend to agree that you should be able to get pretty close to studio sound on a budget assuming you have a computer already. I understand that sometimes owning stuff is a huge hassle itself, but if it's something you want to do a few times, the cost savings would start to be there.

Since no one has given you any real advice on how to do this, I can give it a shot.

I'd start by installing Audacity on your computer. It's super basic, but what you're doing is super basic. And it's super free. That's a huge plus.

Next, decide how you want to do microphones. First, you'll want stands. If it's an interview/two person thing, you'll need a couple of these (or more if you want more mics). We're at $25 for two now.

Next, decide what quality you want to be at. The Blue Snowball is a pretty great entry level microphone. I've honestly never run two into a computer before, but I imagine it'd be easy enough to record two different microphones on two different tracks in Audacity. That would bring our total to around $150. To upgrade in this way, you would go to something like the Blue Yeti. At over $100/unit, that adds another $100 to your cost.

The other way to do microphones is using a USB Interface for your computer and buying standard microphones. I'm keen on that option because it's a little more flexible if and when you look to upgrade your setup. You can use $15 microphones to get by or if you're locked and loaded, you can upgrade to really nice condensers.

As far as soundproofing goes, you can decide if that's possible wherever you're at. The last voice over project I worked on, I hung blankets in my bedroom and that was perfectly fine. Obviously that's not the most professional look, but there wasn't a pile of ambient noise to deal with and the directional mics do a good job focusing on your voice. You can build sound dampening walls with plywood, insulation, and fabric if you really want. It takes a staple gun, some screws, and about an hour per panel.

Assuming you have the time, an okay computer, and about $300, you could really build yourself a nice studio. If this is a one off kind of thing, it's definitely not worth it. My buddy's place is called, The Petting Zoo and I'd be more than willing to ask him details if you want.

Either way, good luck!

u/iscreamuscreamweall · 2 pointsr/audioengineering

grab a cheap/free DAW like reaper or audacity or even garage band

grab a 2 channel audio interface


plug the stereo line outputs of the tascam tape recorder into line inputs 1 and 2 of the interface.

set the DAW to record at 16 bit 44.1

press record on the DAW and play on the tape machine

???

profit

u/russiandressing · 2 pointsr/VoiceActing

+1 for being in the same boat as you! 31/F/originally from NY. Professional singer of 10+ years; have always been told I have a very unique and soothing voice. I've honestly been stewing on this for over a year and hadn't pulled the trigger until last week. I sat down and figured out what it would ACTUALLY take me (financially and space-wise) to give it a real try.

I have a closet in my current "studio" with all of my guitars and what not; I figured I could commit to turning this space into a booth. I did the math and realized I could treat the space acoustically for $179. eBay had 2" foam panels for way cheaper than anywhere else. Is it the BEST product out there? Probably not - but it will definitely get the job done.

Equipment wise, I figured out that I'd need an updated USB interface and a dedicated VO microphone. I ordered both of those things for $130. Here's what I ordered:

Mic: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007NQH98/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB interface: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QHURUBE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Again, not top-of-the-line products, but I did my research and these both seem to be solid choices for beginners. I've cleared out the closet and I'm currently waiting for the panels to arrive. They get here tomorrow, so hopefully I'll be able to install them on Thursday or Friday morning. They need to "sit" for a bit to uncompress. Haha.

Anyway, I hope my story has helped you! As soon as I get my booth set up, I plan to take webinars and learn, learn, learn. I'll also spent a significant amount of time just recording practice scripts. I learn by doing, so there will be a LOT of doing going on. Haha. I feel as though I could be a tiny bit ahead of the game since I have experience recording and I'm comfortable with recording software and gear. I've also been using my voice as a tool for over 10 years..but in a different way.

Good luck and feel free to hit me up if you need some motivation! I know I've doubted myself multiple times since committing, but I've gotta go for it.

u/WretchedLocket · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Hopefully this link will work for you. You can find the treatments on Amazon for relatively cheap. Might be worth checking out

u/eEPlanet · 2 pointsr/Vive

How about using foam soundproofing to pad our walls to protect us from destroying our controllers and the HMD when getting close to a wall? Foam Acoustic Soundproofing for walls

I'm thinking about buying a bunch of these and or maybe the red and black ones... either going to put it up on the walls themselves, or am going to get some sort of peg board or lightweight wood or cardboard, attach them to that and lean it up against the wall with maybe a command strip or velcro attached at the top for security. If I do the board, I can make it longer and cover up the door handles for my closet door and such...

u/ArtKommander · 2 pointsr/recording

Save yourself some time and just snag up one of these reasonably priced homes!

No, in all seriousness, I'm in the process of a similar, but smaller (one room) project. I started with a couple of packs of these, which were half price a month ago; might be worth checking back.

From the reading I've done, it seems like in a basement, your priority would be soundproofing in the ceiling (I'd think the ground would do the job, otherwise), and sound treatment in your listening/tracking rooms. Getting rid of weird reflections, etc.

All the stuff I've read on proper soundproofing has one thing in common: space between the material and your wall surface. For instance, putting up curtains, or some sort of foam padding a few inches in from the actual walls, then filling that space with insulation, then raising the floor, filling the empty space with sand, then lowering the ceiling, basically building a room within a room.

I haven't personally sought this out, but apparently the Berkeley school of music has some of their class material available online for this sort of thing. (Edit: Sound treatment, in this case.. as mentioned, way different than soundproofing)

Sorry if there's not a ton of usable info in this, just excited for you and wanted to pass on whatever insight I've gained so far.

Good luck!

u/JohnBooty · 2 pointsr/crtgaming

> automotive sound dampening. Not sure if it will help against such a high pitched sound.

Won't do a thing.

It will just reflect those high-frequency sounds. It works in your car (or in speaker boxes, etc) because it helps prevent the car's metal panels from transmitting low frequency rumble.

Good news is, foam panels (which are useless for low-frequency sound) will indeed block those high-frequency noises. Like this kind of thing: https://www.amazon.com/12-Acoustic-Panels-Studio-Wedges/dp/B00TP7C9YY

Won't be 100% effective unless you completely surround the TV somehow, but they will help.

Only problem is, I'm not sure how you'd actually apply these without blocking the TV's ventilation holes...

u/emackn · 2 pointsr/Twitch

You wont be able to sound proof that (proofing and absorption are different things). You could try to hand a bunch of blankets and stuff to dampen the sound, stop it from bouncing all over the place. Amazon also has sound absorption panels you could try.


Also, just talk to your room mates about it, they might be into helping out with the stream or even helping maintain the channel for extended amounts of time, like streamer house or something.


If you are embarrassed because they hear you, you're going to have a rough go at it. Just be you and have fun.

u/Kenworthian · 2 pointsr/synology

I have done a couple of things to minimize the noise coming from my DS916+. First, I have it sitting on the middle shelf of one of these types of racks with another Mini-ITX server on the top shelf, a USFF server next to it, and a UPS on the bottom rack. I had thought it was part of the problem initially causing vibrations that caused increased noise so I endeavored to isolate the vibrations from the machines themselves. But I first started with the Velcro fix I found in another Synology thread here on Reddit. That actually helped quite a bit but I wanted to do more with the other devices so I bought some sound proofing foam on Amazon and cut individually sized portions for each device and placed the device on top of it. Overall I am pretty pleased with the reduction in noise. I can now here the drives themselves working which is a whole other issue but I did mitigate quite a bit of sound overall.

Good luck and hope this helps!

u/mrtoothpick · 2 pointsr/battlestations

I made it using this acoustic foam, this PVC foam board, and this spray adhesive. Used the PCV foam board so I could double-side it with the foam and it was more sturdy than a piece of cardboard.

u/dysenteryiscool · 2 pointsr/oboe

You could purchase some sound-absorbing foam to put on your wall, only like $15

u/sailortitan · 2 pointsr/rpg

these bad boys are miracle workers, or if you need something a little less... "this is less a room than a recording studio" you can hang decorative curtains on the wall.

u/fbisurvalence · 2 pointsr/videography

having a separate audio recorder can make a big difference.
I might suggest something like a Zoom H4n or a Tascam DR60 either of these will allow you to have your audio recorder not tied to a laptop during filming.

u/tommyberre · 2 pointsr/classicalguitar

I've recorded myself a bit with both budget and hi end mikes. I have used a Zoom H4n Pro ($219) portable recorder for a project I have with classical guitar improvisations. All the recordings are done either in living rooms or outdoors. There's no fx on the recordings, only a little bit of eq and compressor. Here's a link to these recordings on Spotify:

https://open.spotify.com/playlist/5XAY5a4uUdTP4EYave3ND3?si=AraITj7DQ8yUnF-Uk0t8wA

I also record original classical guitar compositions using expensive Schoeps mics (Collette stereo set w/Mk5 capsules), here's a solo guitar tune recorded with these mikes in a parallel configuration with added reverb:

https://open.spotify.com/track/4Nju2e1clXsp0SW0nycdM4?si=CtAFUNuFR0y_UpRpFzok-A

I happen to like the sound of the Zoom because it feels more "real" or "natural" to me. Like sitting in the room with the player. The good thing with doing recordings is, you'll have to practise getting less scratching. I get scratching all the time, but recording myself has helped me being aware of this and try to improve it. Same thing with playing, recording can help you improve because you'll probably start hearing what you'll need to practise when listening to your recordings.

Personally I don't like the sound of line/piezo much, but I guess it can sound more controlled and you'll probably get less scratching sounds as well. But budget mikes today can be great, I would do some experimenting with mic placement and maybe recording in different rooms if that's an option. Especially where you place the mic does make a huge difference, so I would advice to start with that. I like the sound of stereo recordings much better than mono also, it sounds more natural to me, and less honky.

Link to Zoom:
https://www.amazon.com/Zoom-H4N-Digital-Multitrack-Recorder/dp/B01DPOXS8I

​

Link to Schoeps:

https://schoeps.de/produkte/stereo/sets/stereo-set.html

u/orthopod · 2 pointsr/Bass

get a Zoom recorder like H5 or H4n
($200) on amazon and bypass his crap, and tell him to his face why you bought it.

We use it on all our sessions/practices - handles high sound pressure great.
https://www.amazon.com/Zoom-H4N-Digital-Multitrack-Recorder/dp/B01DPOXS8I/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1525050448&sr=8-5&keywords=zoom

u/Thestassinator · 2 pointsr/Filmmakers

I've been glued to this subreddit since September soaking up all the information possible as the filming process began.



So we shot this with a Lumix GH5 with a 12mm-35mm lens. We had the camera on a JOBY GorillaPod but we couldn't get any sort of tape (Gaff, Duct etc) to get it to stick to the dashboard. So for the front angle we used the legs of the pod and hung it from the rear view mirror and shot the skit upside down. We put the lens on the widest setting and put it on auto focus.



For audio we used a Zoom H4n Pro. We placed it on a little stand resting on the center console on the 120 setting. All audio was captured on the day, none of it is ADR.



The biggest challenge in the edit bay was the fact that some takes we're done when the car was at a red light while some we're in motion. We had a 6 mile loop which we drove over and over and we just ran through the skit multiple times not really paying attention to whether we were moving or stopped. It was 48 minutes of footage cut down to 2:19 of actual skit.



As far as my involvement went, I co-wrote, acted, captured audio and edited the skit. I'm the guy in the blue shirt riding shotgun (Dane) for reference.




Would love any feedback, thoughts, or advice!

u/JokerEvoker · 2 pointsr/VoiceActing

I'm assuming by "box" you mean audio interface.

If you're looking to be cost-efficient, I personally would suggest starting with an H4N Pro (or the cheaper non-Pro variant) and a mic such as the MXL 770. You'll also need an XLR cable.

The H4N, if you take care of it, will last you a long time and will give you many a good recording. It has built in mics, as well, and they are good quality, but external mics are typically better to have, if possible. However, if you're on a budget, you can easily use just the H4N and its built in mics without any issue, so long as you also get a windscreen. Be sure to have an SD card (I can't remember if it comes with one on its own as I purchased mine as part of a kit that came with a few accessories) as well, to record your files to.

u/avdpro · 2 pointsr/videography

Stepping up the audio can have huge gains in quality, NTG and Deity shotguns are priced well, links above are a great start. Consider a portable recorder Zoom H4n Pro Handy Recorder https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01DPOXS8I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5zLPBb676ZPND so they can record dual system and not have to struggle to send XLR audio to a DSLR. Get a rode boom, and a shock mount too.

Some simple lighting can go a long way , Aputure are the bets bag for your buck right now. If you can spring for the 120D , there will be many more modifier options to control the light worth buying down the road, which will allow them to learn a lot from controlling light (a powerful skill).

When I first started out I scoured local shops for old manual Nikon lenses and picked up cheap adapters SODIAL(R) AF Confirm Lens Adapter For Nikon F AI AIS Lens to Canon EOS EF 5D 7D 600D DC192 https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B074FRFTFY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RHLPBb2YMTQJK to mount them to canon DSLRs. It opened up a lot of control of depth of field kit lenses simply didn’t have with such small apertures. I was able to find cheap Nikon glass for less than $50 on occasion from church sales and small shops and still shoot on then today :).

Have fun!

Edit: spelling

u/dtmhnl · 2 pointsr/gratefuldead

I don't tape but if I was to, I would use this

u/MrProfDrDickweed · 2 pointsr/audioengineering

Sorry Lav microphone is a microphone you wear on your body somewhere, usually hidden under clothes or just on your collar. The Zoom H4N is a portable recorder https://www.amazon.com/Zoom-H4N-Digital-Multitrack-Recorder/dp/B01DPOXS8I/

u/abluecolor · 2 pointsr/themountaingoats

Of course!!

It's a bit of an investment, but the equipment I used was the Zoom H4n Pro. Did some research and the Zoom H4n has been a standard for awhile- phenomenal device, and they recently put out an updated model (the Pro) which is identical save for some upgrades to the guts inside (the preamps and the onboard mics). I plan on using it for many years to come.

I took nigelewan's advice and set the h4n in my shirt pocket- it fits snug and perfectly. I kinda hated how it sticks out a bit- the mics are silver and shiny so I have to imagine JD notices it, but the fact that he's currently binging Grateful Dead tapes makes me feel a bit better. Still, I kinda want to paint them black or something. Not sure if that's possible though. The shininess is definitely gaudy, but oh well.

Try to position yourself as close to a speaker as possible. Your recording will end up being what the room at large hears mixed with the crowd audio from around you and also feintly capture JD if he goes off mic which is awesome.

The h4n has a bunch of quality options- I did some research and opted for 24bit/48khz . Apparently that's a sweet spot of making the bass sound really nice and juicy and being high quality but still allowing for a lot of recording time (depending on how big a card you get. I used this 32g card. I used a fresh pair of batteries for each show since I didn't want to take any risks.

You have to set the mic level- I was pretty freaking close to some speakers and it seemed like between 20-35 was the good spot. 20 for most songs, and I'd try to turn it up a few notches when a quieter one came on (and then I'd often forget to turn it back down for the subsequent songs so they'd be louder haha).

Wish you the best of luck! Let me know if you have any other questions.

u/burtnaked · 2 pointsr/Twitch

i have the same mic and use a 30$ mic stand from amazon

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000978D58/

u/ColonelSandurz42 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I have an old usb audio interface that I use as a separate sound device. I have my speakers plugged into the mobo and my headphones plugged into the interface which allows me to change the playback device.

u/snowtx · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Despite the fact that both speakers seem to be a similar price, the Inclines will considerably cheaper and closer to your budget once you account for cables and a subwoofer (provided you actually need one).

Regardless of what you buy, I suggest first trying the speakers without a subwoofer to hear whether you actually miss the last bit of low frequency sound. Both of my suggestions produce fairly low bass, JBL 305 rated at 43 Hz +/- 3 db and who knows about the Inclines as Def Tech doesn't report frequency response using the standard +/- 3 db (most likely they reach somewhere in the 50s?).

For the 305s, you are less likely to need a sub. Also, connecting a sub to the monitors can be complicated and will depend upon your overall setup. A related issue is whether you will be using an external digital-to-analog converter (DAC) - I recommend you do so for the improved sound quality and that you get one with a volume control. I think the best value approach is buy a pro audio interface - these have a DAC, volume control, and the types of cable connections that would facilitate mating your monitors and sub, plus other features that are used by recording musicians. I have the Steinberg UR22 (paid about $115 shipped new off ebay) but you can do fine with cheaper options: Lexicon Alpha has been recommended https://www.amazon.com/Lexicon-2-Channel-Desktop-Recording-Studio/dp/B000HVXMNE/ref=sr_1_6?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1472738288&sr=1-6&keywords=audio+interface or the Behringer UCA202 https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=sr_1_5?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1472738288&sr=1-5&keywords=audio+interface

I went ahead and got the matching JBL LSR310S, but it is expensive ($400 usually but I got mine new on ebay for $279). It was worth it to me as I work from home and listen to some electronic music. Here are ebay listings now: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=jbl+lsr310s&_sop=15 Monoprice has a studio sub at $220 that would work (http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=115&cp_id=11504&cs_id=1150401&p_id=605999&seq=1&format=2 For cable connections it will depend on what audio interface you get (suggest you buy cables from Monoprice for their support - don't bother with Guitar Center or similar places as their cable prices are very high), however, I think you need the following: for the Behringer you have to use unbalanced connections, qty 4 TRS male x RCA male cables, a) connect the interface to your computer with the supplied USB cable, b) then connect the interface input to the sub input using two (left & right) male TRS x RCA cables, and c) then two more male TRS x RCA (one each, L&R) from the sub output to the 305s input. For the Lexicon Alpha, you would connect in a similar manner but can use balanced connections, total of 4 male TRS x male TRS.

For the Inclines and in considering your initial budget goal, you could go with any of the budget subs. My son has the Dayton SUB-800 http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sub-800-8-80-watt-powered-subwoofer--300-627 ($99 - $5 Labor Day coupon + $6.95 shipping). I'd spend another $20 and get the Dayton SUB-1000 because it supposedly goes down to 30 Hz http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sub-1000-10-100-watt-powered-subwoofer--300-628 You would need a subwoofer cable for the connection, such as https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-ULTRA-Subwoofer-Cable-Feet/dp/B003FVYXY0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1472740255&sr=8-3&keywords=subwoofer+cable

As I mentioned before, one the nice things about the Incline is that it has a built-in DAC; however, the "manual" isn't very helpful - this review does a good job of explaining the source input hierarchy and how to engage the DAC (there isn't an input selection switch so you have to unplug cables to make sure the DAC overrides your computer onboard sound card - in any case, use the USB input or optical for DAC): http://www.audioholics.com/computer-speaker-reviews/definitive-technology-incline-desktop-speakers-review

u/Kimiwadare · 2 pointsr/Guitar

Not lame at all. When I was in high school I was obsessed with The Pillows. Probably because of FLCL. Learned pretty much that whole score. If you're a new player, though, you might want to consider getting something like a $100 usb audio interface that you can plug your guitar into and use your computer to model an amp. Unless you plan on playing with a band - then you'd need a real amp.

Example of Audio Interface for under $100

AmpliTube Free for making your guitar sound awesome through your computer

u/AntarcticanJam · 2 pointsr/audioengineering

Here's a short lists of what you need to start recording:

  • Computer
  • DAW
  • Audio interface
  • Microphone/instrument

    Computer: I'm assuming you already have this, it allows you to do work.

    DAW: stands for Digital Audio Workstation, and this is where you'll be doing most (if not all) of your work. A popular and cheap option is Reaper, but you can also use a less powerful (and free) program like Audacity. I would recommend starting off with a "full featured" one like Reaper (which I believe has a 30 day trial period?) because if you do end up getting really into it you'll be glad that you have a bit of background knowledge. Some might argue that certain DAWs are better than other, but it really boils down to personal preference. All DAWs can allow you to have multiple tracks going on at once, for instance, overlaying lyrics over an instrumental track.

    Audio interface: this is the hardware that sits between your computer and your instrument/microphone. It allows the signal from the microphone to be converted from analog to digital which the computer can interpret. If you're just starting out, go with whatever you can find on eBay or Craigslist, but make sure it has what you need (correct number of input/output, USB or firewire connectivity, phantom power if you're using condenser mics).

    Microphone/instrument: without this, you won't get far. The microphone you linked above I think is generally used for vocals, as most condenser microphones are. A solid recommendation that a lot of people give is the SM57 dynamic microphone for micing cabinets or instruments; some people even use it for vocals (myself included, 'cause honestly, it gets the job done).

    The link that you gave looks like has a microphone and a DAW, but no audio interface. I think this might be because the microphone itself has some kind of hardware on the inside to be a plug-and-play, using your computer's motherboard as an interface. So for now if you wanted to use that package for recording instruments and vocals with that specific mic, you're good.

    My personal recommendation to start writing music without breaking the bank that will leave you a lot of flexibility going forward:

    Interface: some random 2-input audio interface with decent reviews Keep in mind that you would only be able to use dynamic microphones on this, as condenser require 48v phantom power.

    Microphone: simple dynamic mic

    DAW: I highly recommend trying out the 30-day trial of Reaper, but like I said, this is all your preference.


    Bottom line: the Blue Yeti All-In-One can get you started, but it has limitations (no audio interface) if you want to start getting deeper into it.

    Sorry if this is a bit rambly, I'm at work and kept getting distracted while writing this, let me know if you need any more info or clarification.
u/UltraFlyingTurtle · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Get an audio interface for your PC.

Plug it into your USB and you're golden. You'll get way better sound, you'll be able to record at much higher resolution and quality, plus you can plug in multiple devices (on the bigger models). Also you'll get less latency if you use recording software and monitor your recording of apply real-time effects.

Typically they cost from $100 to $200 for budget ones, like the Scarlet series which are often recommended as entry-level audio interfaces, used for home studio setups. If you're semi-serious about recording, those Scarlet interfaces are the way to go (older generation models are fine).

That's what I've been doing to record vocals (and guitar, and other instruments) for years on my Macs and PCs.

However if you really want to go cheaper, Behringer has this $50 model that should get the job done. It can handle up to 48 kHz.

You'll need a cable adapter to convert the 3.5mm microphone to an XLR output, something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Campro-Stereo-3-5mm-Female-Adaptor/dp/B00CODJFIE

Or this (this one says it's mono instead of stereo, if that matters):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IU04QHU?psc=1

While looking, I saw this really low budget USB audio interface. It's only $29. It has 16-bit/48kHz converters. No personal experience with it, but the reviews are positive.
http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/UCA222

It uses normal RCA jacks so you can just get an RCA jack to 3.5mm cable, something like this should work: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ISHC36A?psc=1

Edit: Also saw this Lexicon Audio Interface at $47 bucks. No experience with it either, but it's another option:
https://www.amazon.com/Lexicon-Alpha-Desktop-Recording-Studio/dp/B000HVXMNE

u/Rosenworcel · 2 pointsr/Bass

I use a Lexicon Alpha interface. Its about as basic as it comes, but hell it works just fine. One instrument and one mic input, I usually plug my bass straight in or run it through my amp output since I'm too cheap to get buy a DI or a good mic for bass. It also comes with the program Cubase. Again, its basic and its kinda finicky, but its as functional as any other software once you learn how to use it. There could be better interfaces at this price though, it looks like Behringer also has a pretty competent interface for $50 but I've never used it.

u/wondroushippo · 2 pointsr/headphones

Hmm, interesting!

If you want to stick with your source, you could try a single-ended to balanced converter: https://www.amazon.com/ROLLS-MB15b-Promatch-and-More/dp/B0002IL4B4/

Or you could go straight-up with a balanced DAC. The Lexicon Alpha has balanced outputs: https://www.amazon.com/Lexicon-Alpha-2-Channel-Desktop-Recording/dp/B000HVXMNE/

(if your budget is $400, you could try the Cambridge DacMagic Plus, which has balanced preamp outputs, haven't used it but I'm definitely intrigued myself)

u/MojoMonster · 2 pointsr/Guitar

Unfortunately, with guitar interfaces, you get what you pay for.

And anything under $350 is going to have limitations and make compromises.

Cheap: Focusrite Scarlett 2i2.

Cheaper: Lexicon Alpha Desktop Recording Studio.

ASIO4All if the drivers suck.

If you find you want to record, get Reaper.
Free to try, cheap to own.

u/PinkFloydJoe · 2 pointsr/pinkfloyd

Hey! Thanks, I am currently mic'ing my acoustics, but that's just because my Acoustic-Electric has a broken output jack right now.

Here's my full signal path for my Acoustics:

Ibanez Talman Acoustic (with broken Output Jack lol - Radioshack 33-3004 Dynamic Microphone (with foam Windscreen) - Lexicon Alpha Audio Interface - Cubase 5 (with Compression & EQ as insert effects, and a reverb send effect.)

From there it's all about Mic placement and subtle changes to Compression and EQ. I like to position my mic right where the neck meets the body, to the left of the Soundhole.

All the rhythm guitar after the start of the 2nd verse ("And did they get you to trade") is Double Tracked, and panned 60-40 L and 40-60 R.

Hope this helps!

u/MoDuReddit · 2 pointsr/embedded

You're right, I thought OP wanted to sample, my bad. 24 bit for sound output for humans is dumb and wasteful.

Meanwhile, cheap USB 24 bit 192kHz ADC-DAC

u/Dreyka1 · 2 pointsr/headphones

Try this:

https://www.amazon.com/Lexicon-2-Channel-Desktop-Recording-Studio/dp/B000HVXMNE

It is a DAC with balanced output.

The Wyrd will not fix the issue. Electrical noise is present on all the rails and not just the ground and +5V.

u/thesneakywalrus · 2 pointsr/audiophile

My suggestion? Grab an outboard DAC.

Personally, I like the Lexicon Alpha and two TRS cables.

u/JammySTB · 2 pointsr/audiophile

2 TRS cables, yes, but the Mixer will connect to your PC via USB.

EDIT: Wait, maybe I'm being stupid. Hang on a sec.

EDIT2: I know that some mixers connect via USB, but I had a look at the pictures of that Behringer, and I don't see a USB port.

EDIT3: I would probably get something like this rather than the Behringer. I think this may use TS, rather than TRS, but I'll check now.

EDIT4: Nope, TRS! Seems like a good product, and I'd certainly get it over the Behringer.

u/drtonmeister · 2 pointsr/audioengineering

Well that optical adapter just translates between ethernet on fiber and ethernet on copper CAT cable. I've used them a bunch in a facility that oddly has lots of installed dual-mode fiber on SC connectors, but no installed networking infrastructure...
So your toslink digital audio fiber won't even fit in the fiber port, let alone do anything useful.
But that does remind me that there is a 5th way to get audio into a retina Macbook -- if you have a (multi-thousand-dollar) digital console using DANTE or similar digital snake system, you can add a computer to the CAT5 loop. Useful for multitrack recording of gigs, but the latency is awful.
You seem to be trying to reinvent the wheel, when for less money you could get a [Behringer 302USB USB](), Alesis Multimic, or Lexicon Alpha that just do what you want, and provide zero-latency monitoring of your recording input. Each of these has decent descriptions of how to set them up and do what you want, and each has lots of people here who use them and can offer advice.

u/siphyn87 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I had the same issue with my setup. I'm have two JBL LSR305s running to my onboard sound of my desktop. I would often get a high pitched hum anytime I moved my mouse or whenever I was in the main menu of a game. I ended up buying [this](http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-HD400-BEHRINGER-MICROHD/dp/B000KUD2G4/ref=sr_1_sc_1? ie=UTF8&qid=1418913249&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=Humm+destroyer), which completely eliminated the hum coming from the speakers. If this doesn't fix your issue, I'd recommend running an external DAC like others suggested.

u/SarcasticOptimist · 2 pointsr/audioengineering

Power conditioner, make sure the TS cable is nowhere near power cables (or perpendicular to them). If the noise gate plugin doesn't work, you could try hum destroyers.

u/MegaCamu · 2 pointsr/ZReviews

Had the same problem, horrible noise coming from my JBL 305 when my GPU was under high load. Bought the Behringer HD400 and it eliminated the problem completely. I personally don't notice any loss in quality, it sounds better since there isn't any extra noise in the signal. I have my DAC/preamp going into the HD400 with 1/4"-1/4" jacks, and then 1/4"-XLR cables going to my speakers.

u/DaiserKai · 2 pointsr/ableton

I had the same ground loop issue when I first got my monitors (also using scarlet interface). I stuck this ( https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-HD400-BEHRINGER-MICROHD/dp/B000KUD2G4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526981643&sr=8-1&keywords=behringer+hd400 ) between interface and monitors and problem solved. Passive, two ins, two outs, basically a zero-gain transformer I think. Only around 30 euro too.

u/4foot · 2 pointsr/edmproduction

I had a very similar issue with my hs8 monitors and it turned out to be a ground loop problem. If you Google "ground loop speaker noise" you should find a ton of forums with people dealing with this. Since it only happens in one part of your house that's what makes me think it might be a bad ground somewhere in that circuit you're connecting to. For me what fixed my problems (and this fucking PLAGUED me for like 8 months) was just using this little guy: BEHRINGER MICROHD HD400
It's pretty cheap so might be worth a shot. This little box is the last part of my chain before it hits my monitors. But Google around for ground isolation problems and see what worked for other people as well. And also use a decent power strip for your monitors, not a chippy chappy old ass one you found stashed in your parents closet (we all havem).

u/Josh1billion · 2 pointsr/rocksmith

Received mine today. Pretty sweet looper, but unfortunately I'm still getting some hum. It's definitely not anywhere near as bad as the Y-splitter, so that's a relief, but it's still bad enough that Rocksmith is picking up a "B" note whenever my guitar should be silent.. hmm. This seems like it's messing with note detection a bit, and (as with my Y-splitter) I end up having to unplug a cable during tuning to remove the hum, because otherwise I can't tune some of the high strings. Tried recalibrating, but no luck. I know it's not my guitar, because the hum still exists even when my guitar is unplugged, as long as the Rocksmith cable is plugged into the looper.

I did some googling for "Rocksmith hum" and found some recommendations for this $25 hum remover, so I'm considering that. After reading the other posts, I was thinking there'd be no hum at all even without the hum remover.. oh well.

Other than that, though, it's a great pedal. Lots of nice features, and the ability to transfer your recordings from your pedal to your PC over USB is great. Definitely a worthwhile purchase even in light of the hum issue when used with Rocksmith.

u/Sleeked · 2 pointsr/Twitch

My gaming machine is a 6700K, 1080ti.

My streaming machine is a 2700x with a 1070.

My capture card is Avermedia 4k: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DHSZC4K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My mixer is this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0039PPW60/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have an AT2035 for a mic.

From there it's just an xlr cord, a couple 1/4 to 3.5mm cord to hook to my gaming computer.

I have two https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KUD2G4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 to keep the hum away that might happen.

u/Subbota · 2 pointsr/rocksmith

This little hum destroyer can probably take care of that. I started getting hum like that a while back on a split signal that ended when I added it.

u/HartUndSteil · 2 pointsr/headphones

Die Dinger haben halt nicht den besten Klasse-D-Verstärker, daher gibt es ein hohes Grundrauschen. Ich habe je 2xLSR305 und 2xKS Digital D80 mit dem Teil ausgestattet, jetzt nimmt man das Rauschen nur mehr <30cm wahr: https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B000KUD2G4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Gibt sicher Alternativen, aber da kann ich sagen, dass es funktioniert. Andere steckt man einfach dazwischen, genau.

u/ThePkmnFreak · 2 pointsr/letsplay
u/SirFancyLot · 2 pointsr/letsplay

CAD U1 dynamic usb mic for 28 usd :
https://www.amazon.com/CAD-U1-Dynamic-Recording-Microphone/dp/B000ULQTE0
It is what I started to use yesterday. It can be seen in my The Evil Within gameplay

u/superfusion1 · 2 pointsr/youtube

What about the CAD U1 $24 on Amazon

u/welsknight · 2 pointsr/letsplay

Best bet would probably be something like a CAD U1. Cheap, but actually a solid USB mic for its cost. It will definitely suit the needs of a 10-year-old.

When it comes to budget mics, I swear by CAD. My first non-webcam mic was a CAD U37 (runs about $45 US), and it was the mic I used until I had about 50k subscribers on Youtube. I even still use it from time to time when I'm traveling or something and I can't take my bulky, complicated XLR setup with me.

u/thetonyk123 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Alright, well I found this one for a couple dollars more. I listened to some voice tests on YouTube and it seems much better then the other one.

u/morjax · 2 pointsr/letsplay

I'd highly recommend saving up $20 or so for a CAD U1, used rock band mic, or similar. Audio quality is a major part of what your product is when you make a let's play. Even this first upgrade will likely make an immense difference in your quality.

u/brianf408 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

You definitely want to go for a dynamic microphone. Don't let anyone talk you into a condenser, they are GREAT for recording but will pick up every bit of background noise you have.

If you can spring a few more bucks, you really can't go wrong with the ATR2100.

I've never used this one, but the CAD U1 should definitely be sufficient for your needs.

I would highly recommend a scissor boom mount to get the microphone off the desk. It will help isolate from keystroke and mouse noise, and keep people from hearing a thump if you bump into your desk.

u/leodamascus · 2 pointsr/letsplay

I like the CAD U1. It's the microphone I'm using in this expository video, so you can use that to judge quality.

u/AustinYQM · 2 pointsr/podcasts

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ULQTE0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 is the best microphone I have found for a more then reasonable price point.

The set up we use on my show is 100 percent free. We spawn a free mumbke server using guildbit which lets you record audio (which we us as back up) while working as a way to take to each other remotely. Then we each record a separate audio stream using Audacity (free) and upload that file to drop box (free) where one of us combines and edits the audio.

u/SuperKato1K · 2 pointsr/Twitch

I'm pretty sure that mic needs an XLR cable and some kind of mixer or audio interface that plugs into your computer. I could be wrong but I don't think the XM8500 is usb.

It seems you need to keep $ low so something like this would probably work:

https://www.amazon.com/HDE-Female-Cable-Instruments-Microphones/dp/B0050CEEIW

Though something like this would be much better:

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Microphones-Icicle-Converter-Preamp/dp/B001EW5YQS

u/godsmalak · 2 pointsr/audioengineering

http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Microphones-Icicle-Converter-Preamp/dp/B001EW5YQS
This is a little better option.

http://www.amazon.com/HDE-feet-XLR-Female-Cable/dp/B0050CEEIW
This is really inexpensive, but will work.

Keep in mind, you get what you pay for with most things of this nature.

u/Talks_To_Cats · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

You'd want an XLR to USB in most cases for a PC. 3.5mm has some other complications to deal with.

This is a fantastic one, although it's expensive. Blue also makes the Icicle for much less.

u/MiyamotoKnows · 2 pointsr/headphones

> AT2035


You would not need a DAC for this mic application. Her XLR mic output will need to go into a mic pre-amp or input device with XLR's or a DI box that has RCA outs. The best bet for this level of use would be a USB input device with pre-amp such as this very decent one.
A DAC converts a digital signal into an analog signal. Most amps and speakers output an analog signal but most sources (your PC's sound card, a CD or Bluray player etc) can output a digital signal. By keeping the signal in a digital state for as long up the chain as possible you are insuring a higher purity of sound in most cases as the signal is just a coded string of ones and zero's (as light pulses in the case of optical) is less prone to degradation from external noise. The computer chip in a stand alone DAC is also usually of much higher quality than the one in a digital source device (sound card, CD player etc) and the other audio components in it are probably also of higher quality so you are decoding that digital information with more accuracy. All of this can lead to improved sound. How much better varies among setups and personal taste. For instance I have heard an SMSL DAC and I couldn't discern improvement from the source's low end DAC but I have also heard a Moon DAC and a Musical Fidelity DAC and I was shocked at how amazing they sounded, on that setup, to my ears.

u/djdementia · 2 pointsr/audioengineering

You should have posted a picture, link, article, something. We don't know what this is. It could be a soundcard on a cable like this: http://smile.amazon.com/Blue-Microphones-Icicle-Converter-Preamp/dp/B001EW5YQS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417198181&sr=8-1&keywords=blue+icicle+xlr+to+usb

Otherwise it's probably for lighting controls as others have said, DMX is used to control stage lights:

http://www.amazon.com/KEDSUM%C2%AE-Interface-Converter-Computer-Controller/dp/B009B5II8G

u/kmccoy · 2 pointsr/audio

You generally can't just adapt the XLR from a microphone to 1/8" or 3.5 mm (I'm assuming that's what you mean by "audio jack"). The mic requires a preamp designed to work with it and maybe phantom power. You'll want a USB interface. You can find some relatively inexpensive ones for just one microphone -- they're not super high quality, but unless you're really spending a lot of effort on making your recording setup, it'll be just fine. The Blue Icicle is one, though you can find them cheaper, too. Or you can get fancier, like with a Focusrite Scarlett 2i2.

u/Jaelgoco · 2 pointsr/makinghiphop

If you want something really cheap in which you can control the gain then I recommend the BLUE icicle. You can probably get it for around 31 bucks on amazon.

u/Oneloosetooth · 2 pointsr/microphones

The answer is.... it's compicated.

First off... where are you (country)? And what do you want to use the microphones for? And what is you budget?

  1. "the at2035 will still sound better than an at2020usb mic right?"

    No-one who reviews microphones likes to say that one microphone is better than another (annoying right?). This is because sound and how a human interprets it and "hears" a thing is entirely subjective. So most reviewers will say "They sound different and personally I prefer this one....". It is generally true that a more expensive microphone will have better, more sensitive components, less self noise, better frequency response and will handle sound better. You are unlikely to notice a huge difference, though, if this is a microphone for you to stream games with...

    The frequency response of the AT2020 is 20-16'000Hz, the AT2035 has a frequency response of 20-20'000Hz. The power requirements for the USB mic is 5v and the XLR mic is 11-52v. When looking at the Audio Technica technical specifications for both microphones there is not much more information for the 2020 whereas the 2035 lists Low Freq Roll-off, circut sensitivity, impedence, noise dynamic range, etc. Audio Technica either do not provide that information for the USB mic as an oversight, or because it is not important/nothing to write home about. There is no doubt in my mind that AT2035 is the better microphone and a more worthy investment.

    AT2020 USB - http://www.audio-technica.com/cms/wired_mics/c75c5918ed57a8d0/

    AT2035 - http://www.audio-technica.com/cms/wired_mics/cebb57a269d232ee/

    There are also loads of links on YouTube where people compare microphones. One tip is that if you go and watch these, unless your PC has good monitor speakers try to listen to these videos using a pair of decent headphones (like these - https://www.whathifi.com/akg/k92/review). If you are streaming or producing music you will need a good pair of headphones anyway, good does not have to mean expensive. Just check out reviews, the K92's are fairly cheap and are good.

    YouTube link 1: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4784ITB8WFI

    YouTube link 2: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A8wCHEe3m2E

    You will also find plenty of reviews there of the AT2035.

  2. "I dont understand what I need to buy to make it work, like a mixer or something?"

    So... You will need something that provides phantom power to the microphone and then connects to your computer, usually by a USB. I use a Focusrite 2i4 2nd Gen. (note if you go done the Focusrite route there are plenty of units on Ebay as well as new, but make sure you get 2nd Gen.) Again it depends how much you want to spend and what you plan to use the microphone for... there are cheaper and more lightweight units (that does not mean that they are poor quality) and you can go right the way up to expensive and more complex units.

  1. Blue Icicle XLR-USB Adaptor, a good leightweight solution - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Blue-Microphones-XLR-USB-Microphone-Condenser/dp/B001EW5YQS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502188957&sr=8-1&keywords=USB+XLR+USB+Adaptor

  2. Music Authority Best Audio Interface Buying Guide and Review summary page - https://musicauthority.org/audio/best-audio-interface/

  3. Similar review product summary from musicradar.com - http://www.musicradar.com/news/tech/the-best-budget-usb-audio-interfaces-in-the-world-today-570850

    Good luck.
u/Theta_Zero · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

Yeah good call, I made that mistake as well. XLR is not plug-and-play, although the Blue Yeti Pro actually comes with all the stuff you need. Most other mics do not.

For the AT2020/AT2035/Blue Yeti XLR mics, you also want/need:

  • A form of phantom power to power your microphone

  • An Analog-to-Digital converter

  • An Amplifier

    You can get them all in one piece of equipment, or separately. I'm using the CEnterance MicPort Pro but the much cheaper Blue Icicle is probably good enough for most peoples' uses.
u/fumblesmcdrum · 2 pointsr/VoiceActing

The way Condenser mics work requires them to have 48V "Phantom" power, which is transmitted over the microphone cable. This won't come from your PC, you'll need an audio interface that is capable of supplying phantom power over it's connector.

Here's a cheap one .

That button on the front supplies the 48V you need to operate your condenser mic.

EDIT: Even Cheaper . But I don't know about its quality

u/darthvacuous · 2 pointsr/u_heartdamage

Microphone suggestion:
Depends on if you want to buy a audio interface (XLR-USB) and a mic or a combo. I started out with a audio-technica ATR2100. Its a great mic for the price and you can use it without an usb interface.


Comes with a little stand and and you can hook it up to USB. I would get foam cover for it so you don't pop your pees. (Heck I'll send you mine for free)

Or you can get the humungus Blue yetti mic all the streamers buy.

I have a Heil PR40 I use for my recording and radio stuff.

Bon Appetite: Claire is my waifu dog.

GoT: Should I get back into the madness? I'm a few seasons behind.

Travel Recommendations:
I like hiking and nature so natural parks are my Jam. Colorado/Utah are awesome. I'm actually planning a trip to Cuba myself. Have you considered Hawaii?

u/shtoops · 2 pointsr/CarAV

Pickup a Behringer ECM8000 .. a Blue Icicle Mic XLR -> USB Preamp .. Room EQ Wizard freeware software. A capable DSP.. and have at it. This is a very powerful piece of software.. and im surprised that its free.

u/72skylark · 2 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

That's what I was thinking. I googled it and it looks to be something like this. Not bad at all for $60, seems like it would be great for recording demos on the road.

u/ForRealsies · 2 pointsr/Twitch

Lavalier doesn't have to mean expensive. I recommend checking the customer video review.

u/punkrok97 · 2 pointsr/youtubers

Less than $500 for even a decent camera will be difficult. I'd suggest looking into a used Canon T3i or a new/used T2i. They may be slightly more expensive but they're the best thing you'll find around that price range (in my experience). Also because they both have interchangeable lenses you can upgrade/adapt them as you get more cash to invest.

I know less about mics although I think it may be difficult to find what your describing, especially at that price. Something like this may be what your after but I really can't say that the quality will be great and the cable will probably get in the way if you're moving around.

What I'd really suggest is to abandon the idea of on-body unless it's absolutely necessary for some reason. If you're up for doing that I'd suggest a shotgun mic (something like this would probably do just fine). The absolute best option in terms of quality and lasting value would be to buy an H4n. The disadvantage is that you'll end up having to sync your audio to the video but the advantages are that the audio quality is great, you can add better (XLR) mics in the future and you can move it around depending on where your audio source is.

I know that this isn't exactly what you're looking for but I hope it's some help anyway. If you have questions please feel free to ask :)

u/averynicehat · 2 pointsr/videography

On the mic input jack - I've only ever used the GH4, but assuming the audio hardware is the same/similar, it is much better than the two Canon cameras (t3i and EOS M) I've used.

I can plug one of these cheap button battery powered mics directly into the GH4 and it sounds pretty good. If I used that same mic with a Canon, it would be unusable because of all the hiss. Also my Rhode VideoMic (not the pro which can output even more volume) works fine directly plugged into the GH4 while was terrible on the Canons.

u/SKiring · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

>http://www.overclock.net/products/zalman-zm-mic1-high-sensitivity-headphone-microphone
>http://www.amazon.com/Sony-ECMCS3-Omnidirectional-Stereo-Microphone/dp/B0058MJX4O/ref=pd_cp_MI_2
http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATR-3350-Omnidirectional-Condenser-Microphone/dp/B002HJ9PTO

And as suggested by /u/zifay:
>Get a Samson pro mic. It sounds much better than any headset mic and its $30

All of these are great examples of fine microphones at low prices. ;)

Oh and I'm glad you have no gold to give stranger, I do this because I love making sure people are getting the best piece of equipment. Fake internet points and real money thrown at my comments are a wasted effort. I'd rather see you post pictures of obtaining one of these headphones paired with one of these mics! :)

u/crazykoala · 2 pointsr/Filmmakers

Since your title specifies low cost you can save some money by using a wired lav mic like this Audio Technica or this Olympus lav mic. You simply plug it into the camera's mic input. A 3.5mm extension cable might be needed to reach the camera. Use the lav mic with an inexpensive voice recorder if you need the subject to move around. Smart phones have decent audio recording apps too. Syncing the audio in post can be a hassel so only do this if the shot requires being untethered. If you record audio with a separate recorder it helps to mark it by saying a scene number and making a clap sound so you can find it and sync it with the video editing software.

For lighting you might consider an inexpensive LED light and a second battery. Charge one battery while using the other.

I've used clamps like this and this for quick and simple mount of camera and small lights to a chair, windowsill, cupboard, etc. You can use JB Weld to put a 1/4-20 nut-coupler on the light if it doesn't have it already.

edit: I like Canon equipment and their line of Vixia Camcorders starts at around $300 and has a mic input. The lens and image stabilization gets you a nice picture compared to a camera phone or similar "cheap" camera.

IIRC Premiere has a basic mode that uses a simpler timeline more like Apple's iMovie. You can download 30 day trial versions of the latest Adobe products. Give Premiere Elements a try.

u/alexharris52 · 2 pointsr/videography

I did a shoot for Kea in a van, I rode shotgun with a Canon C100, 24-105mm f4 combo, rode shotgun mic and hand stabilizer. BIG ass setup for a passenger shooter. What I wound up doing was taking a rope, looping it through the handle on my c100 and pulling it tight to a metal suction cup that was on the glass. I only had to use my hand to help the c100 hover, and image stabilizer did the rest. Gave it a nice hand held organic feel even though it was rope held. Came out super good, too lazy to look for screen shot right now I could probably find the commercial quicker, will report back

Anyways as far as noise, I think they were micd up and I got some audio too with the shotgun mic that came out great.

If its a 60D maybe use this?
http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATR-3350-Omnidirectional-Condenser-Microphone/dp/B002HJ9PTO

u/isolepsis · 2 pointsr/Filmmakers

That podcasting kit looks very cool too! Have you got a link to the Reddit post you made about it? (I tried looking for it but I think it might have been some time ago).

I'm trying to put together some podcasting kit myself (low-budget, 2-person interview-style, but must be ultra-lightweight/portable as remote outdoor locations), so I'll ask some offtopic q's here anyway!


  • Do you ever use the H4n without mics? (ie only onboard)
  • No headphones? No mixing-board?
  • Is there much there you could leave out if you were trying to get a just-the-essentials podcast kit? (but still podcast-quality audio)
  • Can you tell me more about your cabling choices? ie you mentioned 3.5mm cabling...
  • How do you like Shoutcast? (Suitable for podcast-noobs like me?!)
  • With what you know now, If you were going to buy for a setup today would you change anything?
  • I'd be interested to see another pic with your current mobile setup?!

    For field recording I was thinking maybe the Zoom H2n with a few simple Audio-Technica ATR-3350 Lavalier mics, and just switching to a better studio-mic if nearer civilization... any thoughts appreciated?!
u/skeletonmage · 2 pointsr/Homebrewing

Don't mind the down votes in the sub. You guys will sound great with stand alone microphones and more experience. If your camera can handle it, you can get a lavaliere and split the channels. So you'll be right, he'll be left, and then combine them in post processing.

u/ilykdp · 2 pointsr/videography

I have two zoom h1's for my videography business (interviews, talking heads, etc.). I pair them with the audio technica ATR 3350 lavalier mic because it requires a separate battery that I feel will lessen the amount of noise that would be present in an otherwise device-powered lav mic. Or maybe it's because the cord is ridiculously long and needs the extra power.

I haven't run tests to confirm, but the results have been great. I also have a rode videomic pro mounted onto my Canon 60D, but the low level noise I was getting was very noticeable. I then switched cameras to a GH3 and the noise is virtually nonexistent compared to the 60D.

So be wary of the Canon's ability to record non noisy audio without a separate system.

u/HyruleK1ng · 1 pointr/letsplay

I recently grabbed this one... http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000978D58/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Not sure if it gets as low as you may want it but it it holds my snowball nicely and easily sits next to my desk or the middle of a room for recording groups.

u/Mumbolian · 1 pointr/letsplay

I use this stand and this pop filter

u/thisisnotarealperson · 1 pointr/acting

Here are links to the stuff I got; you don't have to get exactly these things of course, and I'm pretty sure the mic and recorder were cheaper when I got them.

Mic: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQ79W0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

Recorder: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NACC6M?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

XLR cable to connect the two: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002GML68?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

Mic stand to act as boom: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000978D58?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

The recorder writes to an SD card. I learned the hard way that you want to get one of the fast high-performance cards rather than the standard cheap thing that comes with the device. Otherwise the data comes in faster than the card can record and it just stops halfway through. When you're a one-man crew like me and you can't sit there and watch the recorder to make sure everything's going fine, it really sucks to cut and then see the audio stopped two minutes ago. Same goes for the camera, get a high-performance card.

The main drawback to using the mic stand instead of having someone hold the boom is that you can't really move in the scene. Otherwise you hear the actor's voice get louder as they approach the mic. A lav mic would solve that problem; I've never used them so I have no experience there at all.

Oh, and I have a T3i as well, I've been really happy with it. Here's an episode of my webseries I shot with all this stuff: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=By5LflOE1gI

u/Helix101_Gaming · 1 pointr/letsplay

I don't use that mic, but I do use a floor stand and I absolutely love it from reducing desk noises. Works like a charm. Amazon sells several kinds just make sure it can work with yours. The one I snagged was on sale for 19$ and has enough customization to place it in different angles and heights to match your needs.

http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000978D58?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00

u/thisguythatgame · 1 pointr/deadbydaylight

If you're referring to the mic stand it is this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000978D58/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. Although it is a bit wobbly after nearly 4 years of use.

u/nervez · 1 pointr/hookah

I recommend a mic stand. I use this: http://amzn.com/B000978D58

Should fit most hoses. I use a NuHose with it and it's a little loose, but if you fasten it in with a rubber band or a little bit of tape, it works great.

u/jedinatt · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

This is recommended on noaudiophiles site: https://www.amazon.com/Lexicon-2-Channel-Desktop-Recording-Studio/dp/B000HVXMNE

Honestly though, volume +/- buttons on a keyboard will work in a pinch.

u/Bishoop47 · 1 pointr/microphones

Okay, I just looked up SLX4 and we're not paying anywhere NEAR that price.
You basically need an adapter from the Mic connection (XLR) to USB, I think you can get adapter cables for this seeing as Dynamic Mics don't need something called Phantom power, but what I did was buy something called an Audio Interface.

An Audio Interface is basically the Soundcard you're computer comes with to control sound going in and out, but wired up by USB on the outside, with the XLR port(s) you need, plus mic volume and speaker volume dials (sometimes headphone volume too) and often little tweaks to make sound nicer in general.

Seeing as you don't need Phantom Power you can probably buy the cheap ones and be completely fine with it http://www.amazon.com/Lexicon-2-Channel-Desktop-Recording-Studio/dp/B000HVXMNE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1465059155&sr=8-3&keywords=audio+interface+xlr

u/thoughtprovoka · 1 pointr/makinghiphop

I went the super cheap route and went with a Lexicon Alpha. I use it perfectly with my SP-303 and SP-404. http://www.amazon.com/Lexicon-Alpha-Desktop-Recording-Studio/dp/B000HVXMNE

u/Rick-Ross-Grunt · 1 pointr/edmproduction

Hey thanks a bunch, and would this work for now as opposed to the pre sonus audio box?
but again, thanks so much for the advice there :)
http://www.amazon.com/Lexicon-2-Channel-Desktop-Recording-Studio/dp/B000HVXMNE/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1464111282&sr=8-7&keywords=USB+Audio+Interface

u/dorekk · 1 pointr/headphones

Yeah, run them with a balanced audio interface. You can get one for as cheap as $50: http://www.amazon.com/Lexicon-2-Channel-Desktop-Recording-Studio/dp/B000HVXMNE

u/m00n3r · 1 pointr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

I've been very happy with my Lexicon Alpha for the price.

u/zero_volts · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

Hey, I am also using a set of the MK1 version of the LSR305 with a PC. I think everyone is spot-on about the ground loop isolator. If you are looking for a cheap fix, try that first.


Beyond that, like many have suggested - the on-board audio from a PC can be noisy. An external DAC is also a good suggestion, but also a more complicated one, in terms of what all you will need to buy. If you wish to go this route, I will make a recommendation that I can confirm works very well (noise-free, even at high volume) with the LSR305's:


  1. Lexicon Alpha - Currently $59 (regularly $49, track price on camelcamelcamel.com if you want to wait.) Yes, technically is a DAC, but is considered a USB recording interface. Think of it as a USB sound card. It is designed to be used with powered studio monitors like the LSR305's - and will take advantage of their balanced audio input capability to cancel out noise. Bonus capability - a physical volume knob (no reaching behind the JBL's, or trying to get to PC soft mixer while in a game, etc), and adds an aux input - you could connect your phone and mix phone+PC audio at the same time.


  2. 1/4" TRS balance audio cable - get 2, one for each speaker, in the length you prefer. See the 3 contacts (between the 2 black rings)? Each speaker will get a balanced signal from the Lexicon Alpha - a positive audio signal, negative audio signal, and ground. The negative+positive balanced signal cancels out noise.


    Either way don't stress over it - the LSR305's are a great choice.
u/codemunkeh · 1 pointr/livesound

This is as good a solution as any. Most of the very cheap USB interfaces are probably the same re-branded microchips anyway.

I was going to suggest a Lexicon Alpha ($60), which has a mic plug, a headphone plug, and line outputs that could go to the TV. The mic goes straight in, but would limit you to mono game audio (2 channels: 1 is used for the mic). You can then sell/ditch the mixer entirely, maybe getting back some of the cost.

u/Exozalen · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

Is this the correct item for the Lexicon Alpha? https://www.amazon.com/Lexicon-2-Channel-Desktop-Recording-Studio/dp/B000HVXMNE
This for the cables? https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CPP-202-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O1B

I'll expand my budget to include two new monitors for $283 plus $47 for the Lexicon and approx $7 for the cables. Does this look good?

u/CharlesWiltgen · 1 pointr/podcasting

How many pre-amps? Scarlett makes a $99 "Solo", and there's a $50 Lexicon unit.

I found a few 2 pre-amp interfaces for $100 or less via Amazon as well.

u/leveebreaks · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

I know I'm a bit late to this topic, but I recently faced this exact issue. I was using a Lexicon Alpha as the DAC, but had decided that I wanted to swap for a higher quality DAC and headphone amp when I found a pair of Sennheiser HD700s on sale for an unreasonably low price. After a ton of research and some listening comparisons, I settled on the cliché Schiit Stack (Magni 2U / Modi 2U), using the Magni as a pre-amp for the JBLs when the headphones weren't plugged in.

I originally had the Lexicon run with balanced TRS cables, and didn't experience any hiss, but switching to the Modi 2U DAC introduced a horrible coil whine whenever my graphics cards were under load. I switched which USB bus I was using, tried a USB decrapifier (not the Schiit one, just a cheap Amazon substitute that I don't have anymore), and even tried placement changes. In the end, I swapped from USB to optical input on the Modi and solved the issue that way.

I suppose my point is, a DAC alone may not solve the problem, even a decent quality one. Make sure to buy from a place with a decent return policy and try what works best for your setup.

u/GroovinChip · 1 pointr/Guitar

Yay on the mic, nay on the interface. I suggest the Lexicon Alpha. It includes Cubase LE. It got me started years ago :)

u/zim2411 · 1 pointr/audiophile

>Cheapest ones I know of are $200+.

+/u/BennyKB -- Lexicon Alpha is $50.

u/samuraialien · 1 pointr/Twitch

Lexicon Alpha can do that.

u/fluffy_ninja · 1 pointr/audiophile
u/My_Free_Toes · 1 pointr/Guitar

If you're into sort of low budget for a decent sound, I'd recommend a Lexicon Alpha Audio Interface.. Cheap, easy and gets the job done, because the USB to 1/4's don't really work well. They're very delayed.. This a USB device that takes XLR or 1/4 inch(to mic an amp or plug straight in). I recorded this plugged straight in. It has a few slight cut outs here and there but that's because mine has been banged around a bit.. I use mine for primarily Garageband, but another upside is that you can use it for Skype and other things like that.

u/aldaraia · 1 pointr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

GLS ES57 and a Lexicon Alpha. Just about $100, gets you an extraordinarily cheap mic that sounds just like its Shure counterpart (for serious) and a decent interface to use with it.

u/awesomeisluke · 1 pointr/edmproduction

Behringer UFO202 is only $40 but honestly it's a piece of junk.

302USB for $50 might be a little better. Never used it so I couldn't tell you.

This Lexicon Alpha unit for $60 looks decent for the price. Has balanced TRS outputs as well as a couple of inputs. Again, never used it so not sure how good it is.

Here's the thing, you bought a great pair of studio monitors, but any of these three options will likely output less than the potential quality of those Rokits. I really recommend spending the extra money on something comparable to the Audiobox I mentioned in my first comment to get the most out of your investment. If not, that third link would be my next choice. TRS will provide better quality than an RCA connection, hands down.

To find more options, just look up "audio interface." Add "usb", "firewire" etc to get more specific results based on your setup.

u/fritobugger · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

That is only a DAC. You want something that is both a DAC and a pre-amp with a physical volume knob. Something like this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000HVXMNE/

u/skytbest · 1 pointr/Guitar

So something like this maybe?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000HVXMNE?pc_redir=1409926637&robot_redir=1

Edit: Sorry, missed your recommendation of the scarlett...

u/john1475 · 1 pointr/audiophile

Studio monitor speakers don't usually have selectable inputs because it's assumed a mixing console is in the studio. If your current interface has only one input, you might consider replacing it. Something like this Lexicon Alpha. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000HVXMNE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1488252399&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=lexicon+alpha

u/That_Sudden_Feeling · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

If I were to use [this] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HVXMNE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=AV80KMVI6ZWQL&psc=1) amp, with the JBL's, would that suffice? Also will those speakers put out enough bass to fill the room well, or should I look into a subwoofer?

u/ZeosPantera · 1 pointr/Zeos

Hifi Dacs never come with a mic input. The only things that do are usually pro interfaces and the mic is XLR. I haven't tried hooking something like the boompro up to one of those yet so in the mean time I usually recommend just getting a short microphone extension and using your existing soundcard for the mic and whatever new headphone amp/dac just for the headphones.

u/KeyboardKonan · 1 pointr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

You'll need two things to get going.

  1. A TS-Audio Cable
  2. An audio interface

    (Above links are just examples)

    Now, I do see that your YDP-142 has only Headphone out ports. I can't find a general consensus on whether these also double as Line-Out plugs, but it doesn't hurt to try.

    The worst thing that can happen is that it is too soft. Headphone out can be too low to be well recorded sometimes. At that point, you may need to buy a Headphone Amplifier as well to boost the signal. BUT! The Audio Interface, more than likely, should be able to boost it up to a level that a computer can record.


    For iPad, get Garageband. It's simple and easy to use and does everything you could want for standard piano recordings.

    Hope this helps, if anyone else knows if a headphone -> AI works well, feel free to pitch in.

    EDIT: PS - please note that this solution will produce a Mono output (because of the TS cable). If you'd like a stereo recording, some experimentation will be needed with a TSR cable instead.
u/000ZER0 · 1 pointr/nvidia

I read about the use of balanced cables or something like this https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-HD400-BEHRINGER-MICROHD/dp/B000KUD2G4 which i might try first as they are cheaper. Do you happen to know something about any of those?

u/JoshTheSquid · 1 pointr/Twitch

Have you considered the Behringer Hum Destroyer? It's what I use to get rid of pesky ground loops.

u/Turnip_Lover · 1 pointr/ZReviews

I had a similar issue and used this.

https://www.amazon.ca/Behringer-HD400-2-Channel-Hum-Destroyer/dp/B000KUD2G4

Not a guarantee but it worked for me

u/firmretention · 1 pointr/audiophile

I recently built a new PC and I'm getting a ton of high frequency noise over my studio monitors. My setup is:

Focusrite Sapphire Pro 40 -> Alesis RA-100 -> Alesis Monitor Ones

The sapphire is hooked up to a PCI express firewire card with a TI chipset. There is no wifi adapter hooked up.

I'm certain the noise is coming from the PC because the noise will change as the PC is being used/the mouse is moved in some applications.

I do know that my power amp does not have balanced inputs. Do you think getting a power amp with balanced inputs might solve the issue? I've also considered giving something like this a try:

https://www.amazon.ca/Behringer-HD400-2-Channel-Hum-Destroyer/dp/B000KUD2G4

u/Foambythesea · 1 pointr/synthesizers

This has been suggested as a solution for USB ground loop issues. Search this sub for ground loop and you'll find lots of discussion.

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-HD400-Ultra-Compact-2-Channel-Destroyer/dp/B000KUD2G4

u/loafjunky · 1 pointr/Guitar

I just got a Focusrite Scarlett Solo. When I hook up my guitar directly to it and run it in Ableton Live Lite, I have no issues. When I run my guitar into my Orange Micro Dark then into the Focusrite Scarlett, I have a lot of noise/hum, especially if I'm near the Scarlett. Now, my Scarlett is near my computer and if I'm recording, I'd like to be near the computer so I can control Ableton. Will something like the Behringer HD400 help with this issue, or should I look at another solution? I don't want anything terribly fancy, I just want to be able to record simple guitar tracks with Ableton to track my progress as I learn guitar.

u/airblizzard · 1 pointr/rocksmith

This is what I do too. I did however get some ground effect hum from both the amp and Rocksmith when using a Y splitter though so I had to use a hum eliminator like this one. Which of course added two more cables to the setup for a total of three instrument cables not including the RealTone cable. Worth it though.

u/GrammerNotsie · 1 pointr/audioengineering

$25 on Amazon. I use these for all computers running into my setup. http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-HD400-2-Channel-Hum-Destroyer/dp/B000KUD2G4 They work great.

u/Zaspath · 1 pointr/ZReviews

Hey Guys,

It's only fair I come back to you on this, I was very close to buying the Schiit Wyrd to try and resolve this, luckily I didn't need to, I found a solution.

The TRS cables between my DAC and the LSR 305's were faulty and badly wired (custom cables), so there were essentially running as unbalanced. As soon as I swapped them out for some other cables that were balanced, I broke the ground loop and and the buzzing stopped completely.

You really do have to work through your cables (Thanks Elnrik), if you don't have balanced outs or a digital coax / S/PDIF input to your DAC available, I would take a look at this:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Behringer-MICROHD-Hum-Destroyer-HD400/dp/B000KUD2G4

It's had some great reviews, it's cheap and I've seen it work in person for someone else with the same sound when they didn't have balanced outputs available.

Thanks again.

u/DaddysLootz · 1 pointr/audio

Sound Blaster 3.5mm TRS To 1/4" TS into the 305s.

Have also tried motherboard 3.5mm out.

Same power strip. I have tried different outlets including different places in the house.

I cannot detect it with headphones at all.

Tonight I went crazy and ripped apart every single connection to my PC one by one then I went as far as removing the Sound Blaster, even removed my GTX1080 graphics card. I literally had nothing left connected to my computer not even a monitor. With just ONE LRS305 plugged into the 3.5mm motherboard out and the power cable to the PC power supply I pressed the power button and the Hums and Crackles were still present.

This doesn't happen when I connect the speakers using the same wire to my cell phone. It DOES however happen if I connect the LRS305s to my cell phone and plug my cell phone into my PC USB to charge.

At this point its obviously the PC motherboard or power supply.

My work around has been to put the volume knob on the back of the LRS to about 2.5 out of 10 and then crank up the DB settings on the Sound Blaster to +20 for each speaker. This makes it to where I can do daily tasks no problem and even enjoy some music at a moderate levels but I have noticed that the speakers don't seem to perform the right way when doing this even if the sound is being reproduced at relatively the same volume to my ears. Turning the knob up on the speakers even while lowering the volume in windows to compensate feels like it makes the speakers perform differently.

Also when I move around my mouse cursor on the screen it introduces a sort of electrical whine noise. And when playing a game it amplifies the hum. Again with the volume knob on on low settings I don't notice this.

My initial post was kept short with the intent to avoid having people to read this much but since you asked I figured I'd elaborate.

I'm so frustrated that I'm really considering returning the speakers and just getting the 2.1 Klipsch Pro Media at Best Buy for about 40% the cost. I probably won't enjoy the sound quality as much but at least I won't go insane trying to solve this issue without dumping more money into it.

But back to my original post about the Fiio and Behringer UC202. Do you have any info on this?

I also stumbled across a BEHRINGER MICROHD HD400 https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-HD400-BEHRINGER-MICROHD/dp/B000KUD2G4/ref=pd_sim_267_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=WKE1J7XXB0PJZKX2PDG4. This seems like it might be exactly what I need. Any idea?

One more thing the cable I'm using is a Hosa Stereo Breakout 3.5mm TRS To Dual 1/4" TS. My question is why can't I find a 3.5 TRS to 1/4" TRS just TS? Is my cable still considered balanced? Can this be causing a problem for my setup? Sorry if that's a stupid question but I'm lost when it comes to this stuff.

Thanks!

u/jamied281 · 1 pointr/Twitch

Behringer MICROHD Hum Destroyer HD400 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000KUD2G4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_E1FgzbPJ0HQXF

Try this it worked for me.

Kind Regards

u/guysiah · 1 pointr/guitarpedals

Good point! I guess my question is biased, based on "new-ness", but to clarify I'm not implying that either company is intending to rip-off the other.

And about the noise.. I've diagnosed the issue. Running the H9 in Pre/Post, I'm experiencing a ground loop hum/feedback. And this is without using an amp's FX loop. So I guess power isn't the main issue, it happens with both the Eventide power adapter or by a high quality, isolated PSU.

Now I'm looking at something like this. I wish Eventide's site/support would build or recommend their preferred ground loop isolator, considering how often it is asked about on their forums.

u/throwaw_ayylmao · 1 pointr/audiophile

I just got a pair of jbl lsr305s and Im getting a lot of hiss. If they're powered on but dont have any inputs the hiss barely noticeable but once i connect them to my pc it becomes significantly louder. Im assuming I need a better dac ((current one)[https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0068IPE40/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1]) but before committing to getting a better one (probably an audioengine d1) I wanted to get some input as to whether that was the way to go.

I was also considering (this)[https://www.amazon.co.uk/Behringer-MICROHD-Hum-Destroyer-HD400/dp/B000KUD2G4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491419301&sr=8-1&keywords=hum+eliminator] to put between my current dac and the speakers as an alternative method.

Any ideas on which solution would yield better results?

EDIT: i plugged my dac (USB powered) in to a wall socket instead of powering it by my pc and it got rid of all my hissing. The hiss is barely audible; down to the level I get with just the speaker powered on with no audio inputs. I guess there was some interference or grounding issue.

u/That_Guy_Moy · 1 pointr/rocksmith

You have a ground loop. I have a laptop and mixer setup (both on AC) that did this. They were connected through 1/4" audio plugs and had unbelievable noise for a bit. I used a noise/hum eliminator to separate the grounds between the equipment. This one from Behringer did the trick! http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-HD400-BEHRINGER-MICROHD/dp/B000KUD2G4 Put it in between the splitter and your amp and set the rocksmith mixer to zero.

u/URallABunchOfCucks · 1 pointr/Reaper

specifically, here is one example: https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-HD400-BEHRINGER-MICROHD/dp/B000KUD2G4/ref=sr_1_10?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1520458356&sr=1-10&keywords=hum+eliminator
but there are tons of other options you can look into.
People seem to have good success with these.
I believe they have different versions, and this one isn't one that has the lift/ground switch i spoke of.

u/roundpizza · 1 pointr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

Had the same exact problem - this little guy fixed it. No change to the sound quality.

u/Hammernoob · 1 pointr/audiophile

I have already done some research.


u/Fuzzymuzzy · 1 pointr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

After a bit more investigating I came across this

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KUD2G4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER

For $29. I think I might go ahead and pick one up, I'll let you all know if it works

u/Fliptoe · 1 pointr/headphones

If you want to eliminate it for sure I'd go with a ground loop isolator. I had the same issue with my hd650s and it fixed it completely.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000KUD2G4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 This is the one I used but you'll need to buy cables to fit your setup as the ports on this one are all phono.

If you want to test if this will work try the dac on a laptop that's not plugged in, if the humming goes away then the isolator will fix it.


u/fttw_ · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

On the off chance that anyone has the same issue, buying this completely solved the problem without any noticable loss in audio fidelity. I have it in between my sound card and my speakers. I was very dubious, especially with Behringer's reputation for budget gear, but it's solved everything.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000KUD2G4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/arthlo · 1 pointr/Twitch

You have a similar setup to what I have, and the noise sounds pretty much the same as what I used to have in my setup. What I had to do was add in two hum destroyers (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KUD2G4/), one in-line between each PC and the mixer.

I have a cord from the PC's speaker out, which splits into two RCA males for L/R (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0094A1F3S/), and plugs into the hum destroyer, and then another set of cords from the hum destroyer into the mixer (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I0HPK6O/). Same setup from each PC (streaming and gaming).

After adding those, my sound is crystal clear now. So can't guarantee that will fix your problem, but it fixed mine, which sounded similar.

u/dailydrudge · 1 pointr/Twitch

Looks like you're using a mixer, so I would add in a "hum destroyer" in-line with each source coming from the streaming PC and the gaming PC into the mixer.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KUD2G4/

u/Jaay_B · 1 pointr/buildapc

I've had SOME success at long last. After inspecting the cables that came with the set carefully, i noticed that they were not balanced at all. Just because I was using a balanced connection doesn't mean I was using balanced cables. I assumed they were without checking as they came with the speakers as part of a bundle.

You can check this yourself by the amount of rings on the tip of the cable. If there is one black ring, it is not balanced, if there are two, then it is balanced.

Anyways this reduced the buzz by about 60/70%. The issue is still there but at a much reduced level. I will be trying this Hum Destroyer to see if it will break the ground and remove the problem entirely.

u/Faps_McTickle · 1 pointr/audio

Thank you for the response.

I picked up 2x balanced XRS to 1/4 TS cables to go from my mixer output to the monitors. No change, unfortunately. The same goes with a power conditioner.

I ordered this 'hum destroyer' which I hope I'm understanding correctly is an AGDC2, or ground isolator. I'll place it between my line out to TS and the input to the mixer. Hopefully that will help, as the output from the line out isn't balanced right now.

If that doesn't fix it, I'll probably have to return my 308s as I don't know what else it could be.

u/PacM0n · 1 pointr/headphones

I just went through the same thing with my usb dac. I tried a y cable with separate power source and then a ferrite cable. Nothing worked it was a ground loop. I ended up eliminating the noise with http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KUD2G4/ . There are cheaper and more expensive options but this unit works great.

I am running the e10k to a little dot 1+ and I would get the same noise through the dac or sound card. Read more about it here: http://schiit.com/faq/amp-problems

u/fco2013 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Alright so basically you want to steer clear of any "gaming headsets". 99% of them are mediocre headphones with a mediocre mic strapped on with a premium price-tag.

My advice to anybody looking for a "headset" is to buy a pair of good headphones and a separate mic. For $50 you can get this:

Headphones: Superlux Hd681 EVO

Well liked by budget audiophiles (and some audiophiles in general), and regarded as some of the best budget headphones around by head-fi and similar places.

With

Mic: Zalman Clip On

Admittedly not much better than those found on cheap headsets, but at least the price is appropriate.

This mic will put you over $50 but under $75 and sounds a bit better:

http://www.amazon.com/CAD-U1-Dynamic-Recording-Microphone/dp/B000ULQTE0/

u/Illumniggati · 1 pointr/BlackMetal

Well I was thinking about buying this. Do you think that'll be good enough?

Edit: I also found this one

u/username_redacted · 1 pointr/makinghiphop

A standalone USB mic like this one might be enough for your uses, but it probably doesn't sound great.

u/Kroteux · 1 pointr/letsplay

I'd recommend the CAD U1. Consider getting a floor (won't pick up vibrations from the keyboard, mouse, etc on your desk) or desk stand since you're going to need to be speaking closer to the mic due to it being a dynamic mic which aren't as sensitive to sound as condenser mics.

u/messingaroudwiththec · 1 pointr/podcasts

No prob. It's better to make all of your beginner mistakes when there's no one listening anyways.

Here's a good enough $25 microphone:

http://www.amazon.com/CAD-U1-Dynamic-Recording-Microphone/dp/B000ULQTE0

Then audacity for mixing (free) and any of the many free hosting services talkshoe or soundcloud etc etc.

u/Millillion · 1 pointr/buildapc
u/Weldeon · 1 pointr/microphones

How about the Blue Snowflake? It is a bit small but should sit on a desk fine. Or a CAD U1.

u/WhyRushRacing · 1 pointr/videos

Thanks. I have fun racing and I try to share that with the people I race with. Thought others might enjoy it as well.
I have Mac and I use iMovie to make my videos. Then I use a microphone that I bought (https://www.amazon.com/CAD-U1-Dynamic-Recording-Microphone/dp/B000ULQTE0) to do the voice-over.

u/Openworldgamer47 · 1 pointr/Android

Hello. Recently I've been interested in recording video with my android device to post on YouTube. Since I'm unable to afford an actual video recording setup atm.

I was wondering: Would it be possible to record audio through a microphone, while recording video with my phone, instead of using the integrated mic? And if so would the end video file include the audio from the microphone instead of the phones? I was thinking maybe I can use a USB C to USB A cable to hook up the microphone. Use that simultaneously while recording.

This is the microphone I was interested in.

u/ZTUltima · 1 pointr/letsplay

Roxio Game Cap I've used both the HD and SD versions. They get a little more hate than I say they deserve. They do an admirable job and are usually heavily discounted on Amazon. If he has his own video editor this is perfect. It comes with one but it's not very good.

USB Microphone Fairly cheap but good rated USB Microphone. He can use Audacity, which is a free recording and sound editing program, along with this for his commentary.

That's about $80 but I don't know how much cheaper you could get. If he has a microphone already and computer games he can record there's always OBS, a free computer recording software. As far as a PS3 capture device though with a mic this is about as cheap as I can see. Certain gaming headsets are compatible with the PC if he has some Turtle Beaches or something. I hope this helped!

u/ZeldaNumber17 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Best mic at this price point. I have this mic myself.

CAD U1 USB Dynamic Recording Microphone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ULQTE0/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_n2iOub1CBKP4T

u/ArchangBelle · 1 pointr/Filmmakers

Get a cheap USB microphone, plug into laptop.

http://www.amazon.com/CAD-U1-Dynamic-Recording-Microphone/dp/B000ULQTE0

This was my first mic. It's all right for the price.

u/shindiggety · 1 pointr/microphones

Ok, while I don't have personal experience with the phantom power unit you are using, here's what I think is going on.

Every microphone needs a Preamp because the signal captured by the microphone is too weak to hear. Some microphones (like yours) need power as well. You're supplying the needed POWER for the microphone to work, but you still need a preamp to bring that weak signal up to the appropriate level, just like every microphone needs.

Now, here's my suggestion. since you would still need a preamp for your microphone (most preamps include 48v phantom power as a feature) and considering your needs, I'd say you have two decent options.

  • Option 1: Return your phantom power unit and get an XLR --> USB adapter/converter such as the Blue Icicle which will not only convert your weak signal to a digital signal for easy use with Skype / gaming / etc... but will ALSO provide the necessary 48v of phantom power for your microphone.

  • Option 2: Return both the microphone and phantom power unit for a simple USB microphone. There are many good options with budget friendly price tags. If your goal is computer audio and not pristine voice-over or music recording, then you'd be fine going with something even as simple as the Samson Go Mic or CAD U1

    If you want even better quality (honestly, these options will do you good) let me know and I can help you out with other options.

    --DISCLAIMER--

    I haven't personally used the BM800, but I have read reviews and listened to some demonstrations. It is a pretty 'bottom of the barrel' microphone which will be adding some unwanted hiss and noise to the audio it picks up because of the cheap components used. If you decide to keep it, it will most certainly be the bottleneck in your audio quality. Even those cheap usb microphones will likely be better.
u/cthomlan · 1 pointr/letsplay

It's a CAD U1 USB dynamic mic. My only complaint so far is that it doesn't like esses.

u/icewirewastaken · 1 pointr/letsplay

Thanks for answering! So if I'm in a home-recording environment, would something like this be good?

u/Italipinoy95 · 1 pointr/letsplay

No problem! And about the mic situation, my suggestion would be this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ULQTE0/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1


It's what I use for my LP's.

u/HyprDmg · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Razer Adaro headset with CAD U1 Microphone (Dragonpop pop filter)

u/slaytera · 1 pointr/letsplay

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ULQTE0/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the mic I currently use. I got it on sale on amazon for only 20 dollars so I went with a frugal decision and also because it got decent reviews. Me, I'm very OCD about equalization and overdrive and this mic isn't too bad as long as you keep a decent distance and don't scream into it. I haven't really had any problems with it and it records pretty clearly for a cheap mic. Built in pop filter that works generally well but again cheap. So for a decent job it's not bad and in the current situation I'm in it's alright.

u/quadstick · 1 pointr/gadgets

If you don't want to use a headset, this microphone is really good in noisy environments because it is uni-directional. I have a friend that uses it for voice control of video games and it only hears him even with the game volume turned way up.

Omni-directional mics pick up every sound around them. With a program like Skype, they have to analyze and cancel out any sound the mic picks up from the speakers. With a uni-directional mic that is a lot easier and the sound quality improves.

u/Laika027 · 1 pointr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

I was in a similar position and found a pretty good deal that has served me really well. These microphones come together and sound great; I usually use the skinny one for guitar and the thick one for vocals. One thing is that they require phantom power, so you'll need a preamp that can provide that, which is where things get a little pricier. I went cheap and bought this thing, which works fine but it does mean I can only use one mic at a time.

However, those two things plus a mic stand and XLR cable still came out to under $200, and I've never felt like I needed anything else. At the risk of this coming across as a plug, if you want to hear how my setup sounds even though it's cheap, you can listen here (though obviously the drums and bass are not played live).

u/BadBreath911 · 1 pointr/Twitch
u/lenswipe · 1 pointr/microphones

Putting aside the fact that this mic is a shotgun mic and therefore not really for recording instruments (you would need something like this or maybe this for that). Then I would suggest either a blue icicle or a shure x2u. I have the latter and I love it.

u/Graemetak · 1 pointr/audio

Well empirically if you have it working with the unbalanced cable it should work with a balanced cable. Also just to clarify when I say mixer I don't mean something large it could be a single input mixer even something like a Blue icicle which would solve the need for a preamp and it would cut down the total amount of cables that you would need to deal with.
Also regardless of how loud your mic is for streaming it doesnt have to be the same volume coming out of your speakers so it should be easy to avoid feed back.

u/peewinkle · 1 pointr/microphones
u/aleksandrn · 1 pointr/ApplyingToCollege

Normally I try to do the main part in one go and then record the backing vocals piece by piece after that. If I don't like some takes, I do them over and over again until I have a take that sounds good. If the main part doesn't sound good, I just clip it out and re-record with the backing vocals in place.

I would highly recommend getting a pop filter and a condenser mic if you're going to record vocals. Condenser mics have this weird set-up where you can't plug them directly into a computer, so you have to run them through a "preamp." I used this condenser mic and this preamp and my voice turned out great!

u/HarrisonE · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

You may need something like the blue icicle or focusrite scarlett 2i2 if the mic uses xlr.

u/MistyMountainHop · 1 pointr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

Why don’t you just get a USB interface with XLR in? There are some very cheap ones that’ll work just fine for speech use (like this one).

u/SatansF4TE · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

Focusrite would be a waste of money alongside the Bifrost - you'd only need the XLR inputs. I'd grab this instead if you can find it in your country
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Blue-XLR-USB-Microphone-Condenser-Microphones/dp/B001EW5YQS

u/axlsjolund · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Yeah but the XLR requires phantom power which means an adapter wouldn't work. SO you'd still have to buy some sort of interface like this.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EW5YQS

u/fatcatholic · 1 pointr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

The Blue Icicle is simple and affordable, and I would trust it over anything from Behringer. It has everything you've asked for, and nothing else!

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Icicle-XLR-Converter-Preamp/dp/B001EW5YQS

u/Malachacha · 1 pointr/audiophile

I looked at the cheapest options on Amazon and found the Blue Microphones Icicle XLR-USB adapter on sale for $31 + S&H. This covers all your needs (and more) in one nice package, and doesn't even need drivers.

The only other thing you might need is a XLR cable if you don't want to directly plug the Icicle into the bottom of the mic (it will stick out about 7 inches). A quick search turned up a generic 6' XLR mic extension cable for $3.

u/PlusOn3 · 1 pointr/audioengineering

Thanks for the kind words, they are appreciated.

I am a little bit confused on your response though.

So you recommended the Rode NT2-a which has an XLR output, but you said that I want a usb interface with 4 preamps. I'm not sure if I understand how to get a usb interface with XLR mics.

Something like this?: Blue Icicle XLR to USB Mic Converter/Mic Preamp

And if I use that, then my understanding is that would be 4 mics plugged into the computer via USB, and as far as I know, Audacity is only able to record from one usb source. Am I wrong about the setup or wrong about the capabilities of Audacity? Or is there another program that you would recommend?

And why would you recommend not using a mixer? Isn't it the best way to balance the audio balance between four mics to make sure that no one is too low or too high and using the mixer levels to adjust that?

Also, if we don't use a mixer, is there a way to get all four mics to output into all four headphones so that we can monitor the levels of each mic so that everyone can be heard?

Also, thank you for the mic recommendation! I found this one as well

AT2050

That seems to serve the same purpose. Would you agree? Or is there a difference in the two mics that I am not seeing?

And so what you are saying about the figure 8 pattern to get rid of the controller sound is to turn the mic 90 degrees counter-clockwise (or clockwise) as you are facing it? So the side of the mic is pointing down at the controller and up at the ceiling.

Thanks again for the response.

u/rage_311 · 1 pointr/linuxaudio

IF that is a microphone that outputs a level that's intended to be plugged directly into a computer's "mic in" port... then you'd at least need an XLR to TRRRS adapter for it in order to use it with your laptop. I doubt this is the case.

Is the connection on the microphone itself an XLR (3 male pins -- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/XLR_connector)? My guess is that it's a real microphone that outputs a very low level that needs to be amplified in order to be used like that. In that case, you'll need some kind of mixer or sound card that accepts an XLR input and takes care of the amplification. At the very least, you'll need a device like you mentioned that adapts from USB to XLR and is actually a sound card/amplifier (like this: http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Microphones-Icicle-Converter-Preamp/dp/B001EW5YQS).

This is certainly not a Linux issue. It wouldn't work in Windows or OS X either.

u/UppercaseVII · 1 pointr/makinghiphop

Just looked up this Icicle. That's a perfect fit for me. Small, plug and play, cheap. Awesome, thanks for telling me about this. Headed to Guitar Center right now.

Also, in case anyone else sees this. If Guitar Center will price match, it's on Amazon for $31. I'm heading over there right now, I'll update here if they did price match it.

u/Thranders · 1 pointr/makinghiphop

Ya that sounds good, dope song by the way. I can't really spend 75 bucks but I'm hoping the BLUE icicle will do the job too since it's cheaper. Does it look like it would work? I'm new to all this.

u/Maragil · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

The output of that is XLR, and requires phantom power. You shouldn't need a digital mixer, however; you should be able to use something like
this, which should provide through USB input to your laptop, and provide the 48V phantom power to the microphone to get it to work.

Out of interest, what do you need/want the microphone for; it may be you could use something else.

Source: I do sound design/operation at school (about 4 years now)

Edit: You'll probably need an XLR cable too; 3m should be enough for you.

u/Baserios · 1 pointr/buildapc

What about something like this? Less clutter on the desk

u/sahbone · 1 pointr/podcasts

I'm guessing if all your picking up is static, you'd want to go ahead and give it phantom power. It'll sound a lot nicer anyway.

If you're just using Discord, I'm a big fan of the BLU Icicle. It's a nice preamp that'll give your mic phantom power. Another option that I like if you're looking for a bit more flexibility is the Presonus Audio Box. Honestly though, if you're just doing Discord, the Icicle is the way to go.

u/livefree_andride · 1 pointr/asmr
u/Kody02 · 1 pointr/MLPLounge



Ignore what everyone else is saying; go for something used. You can often find really good stuff used for pretty cheap. A used SM58 easily goes for 60-80 bucks, for instance, all you'd need is an XLR input/USB output device (something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Icicle-XLR-Converter-Preamp/dp/B001EW5YQS).

u/Ataraxiate · 1 pointr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

If the product can generate phantom power, then yes. Example here.

u/hoopera · 1 pointr/letsplay

Currently, I have a Blue Spark microphone (best mic I've ever had, it's fantastic)

Blue actually sells and XLR to USB converter that goes right into the mic. It's called the Icicle. It's small too, so don't worry about the size.

It's sound quality is almost identical to an interface, but the only downside is you don't have a lot of options with the audio. The Icicle has a gain knob on it, but that's about it.

It's about $40 on Amazon. Cheap compared to a complicated setup: http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Microphones-Icicle-Converter-Preamp/dp/B001EW5YQS

u/aderra · 1 pointr/audioengineering

If you want to stick with USB THIS should do the trick.

u/winslowyerxa · 1 pointr/harmonica

You can also get a USB adapter for standard vocal mics, like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Icicle-XLR-Converter-Preamp/dp/B001EW5YQS?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-osx-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B001EW5YQS

There may be a mismatch between your standard vocal mics and your sound card, possibly an impedance difference. Are you plugging them into a mic input or into a guitar/instrument input? The latter are high impedance and most vocals mics are low impedance; you can get an inline matching transformer if that's the case.

https://www.amazon.com/Shure-A85F-Transformer-Female-4-Inch/dp/B0006NMUHW/ref=sr_1_2?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1525360831&sr=1-2&keywords=impedance+matching+transformer&dpID=31UaWFK-RUL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

u/SpoogerMaGoo · 1 pointr/microphones

I myself have the BM-800 and all i had to do was plug it in to the icicle

u/morphite65 · 1 pointr/audiophile

Yes, condensers will need a phantom power supply. A few links to get edjamacated:

From Wikipedia

Phantom Power Explained

Condenser vs Dynamic Mic

Personally, I'm getting this mic and this EHX Vocoder, which provides phantom power itself. From there, you can run the output into the mic/line-in port on your computer.

OR

You can get one of these babies. Makes it easy for cheap home recording.

u/MTeson · 1 pointr/Filmmakers

Overall that gives you better options. Just be aware that the NTG-2 is going to get in the way mounted to your machine. You'll have cables all over the place getting in your way while you're trying to set up a nice shot, it won't be in an ideal position, you won't get the best quality sound.

My suggestion is, if this is like a sit-down interview thing, to get some sort of stand to mount the NTG2 on in the proper boom mike position, and connect that to the 60D, and get something like this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002HJ9PTO/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=FTI8OFGCX48K&coliid=I425Y4KS8J4T7 and put that on your interview subject and hide the cable as it runs to your 60D. Put the boom on Track 1 and the lav on Track 2. Then mix it all the way you want to later.

If this is a run-and-gun shoulder rig fly-on-the-wall thing the 60D and NTG2 are going to be a terrible bother. That's why the VMP is great for when you are just going off the cuff, improvising, fly on the wall type stuff. But the NTG2 is just way cumbersome when attached to camera, especially if you use a shockmount (and you need to because just attaching the mic clip to the cam is going to make for lots of handling noise).

Without knowing your setup and your goals I can't tell you to do one or the other for you, I can merely tell you how each piece functions and you can make the call for yourself. :)

u/KoiLoL · 1 pointr/leagueoflegends

its just a simple microphone, looks to be something similar to this

u/xpurplexamyx · 1 pointr/MotoUK

For lavalier mic, the Audio Technica ATR3350 cannot be beaten for bang/buck.

u/DaNPrS · 1 pointr/photography

I did this for my sister's wedding last summer. I used this, which was surprisingly good. Best of luck.

u/theharperimage · 1 pointr/gadgets

I've used Olympus digital voice recorders in the past for ambient recordings and have nothing but good things to say.

This seems to be the most popular version and comes at a good price. I haven't used this model myself, though.

I'd recommend also buying an external mic just in case you hiding the actual device on your person is a lil too cumbersome. This might do.

Edit: Changed the external mic suggestion. (Links to an Audio Technica product on Amazon, about $7 more)

u/Banana223 · 1 pointr/buildapc

I've never been happy with desktop mics. I'd go with something like a lapel mic, like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Technica-ATR-3350-Omnidirectional-Condenser-Microphone/dp/B002HJ9PTO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1320678495&sr=8-1

The downside being that you'd have to put it on your shirt lapel each time you wanted to use it.

u/RedRevolver · 1 pointr/MTB

Mic'd up with an ATR 3350 which is covered in a Red Head Mini Windscreen (you have to e-mail him about the "mini's" for the ATR 3350). It's plugged into the mic adapter for the GoPro Hero3, I have a "custom" hole in the case made for it haha.

u/RaptorMan333 · 1 pointr/videography

if you have an extra like $60, pick up:

  1. A tiny sony px440 or px333 type recorder (dont buy new, these are like $30 on ebay): http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sony-Digital-Voice-Recorder-ICD-PX333-4GB-/321988872421?hash=item4af80848e5:g:15kAAOSwcBhWWKIJ

  2. Cheap lavalier like this: https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-Omnidirectional-Condenser-Lavalier-Microphone/dp/B002HJ9PTO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473928026&sr=8-1&keywords=audio+technica+lavalier

    the sony recorder is (sort of) auto. so you dont have to worry about levels, just set to low, medium, or high (low if you're recording loud sounds like a bike) and leave it running.

u/rdtmfamily · 1 pointr/Filmmakers

I say, Grab a Zoom H4N and a Lav mic like the ATR-3350 And you're pretty much set for most things! However if you want a decent shotgun microphone that goes into the H4N you might want to consider a RODE NTG2

u/W357Y · 1 pointr/audioengineering

The ATR-3350 fits your description, however it requires a battery, and if it's going to be running 24/7 it might not last long: http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATR-3350-Omnidirectional-Condenser-Microphone/dp/B002HJ9PTO


If you can afford it, I would suggest using an external audio interface giving you more inputs so you can set up multiple microphones throughout the house that do not require batteries to power them. A focusrite 18i8 and 2 of these microphone bundles: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002A3KSZW?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creativeASIN=B002A3KSZW&linkCode=xm2&tag=tecn00-20 would cover 4 rooms.

Keep us posted about the project!

u/SlidePanda · 1 pointr/motorcycles

So I have a GoPro and the model I have can accept a 3.5mm input. So I have a case with a hole drileld in the side to pass through said 3.5mm which is for an external, powered lavaleer mic. This one, for $30 +/-

http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATR-3350-Omnidirectional-Condenser-Microphone/dp/B002HJ9PTO

It's got enough, way more than enough, length that I can run it to any place on the bike. On my super moto, the mic body lives under the seat, and the wire runs under the tail and I just secure it with some duct tape. There it's sheltered from wind blast and picks up the exhaust well.

u/rohitknhs · 1 pointr/youtubers

These

It all really depends on your budget. I would say spend more on audio equipments

u/bondjaybond · 1 pointr/Filmmakers

Audio-Technica ATR-3350's are just tops! I highly recommend this!

u/whatfrog · 1 pointr/podcasting

Thanks again! I had noticed on the back they had a "external mic input (plug in power)", but somehow didn't comprehend what it meant... great to know. Great tip about clip-ons for guests too, just the stuff I need :)

That mic you linked was somewhat pricey though... would something like this $22 ATR-3350 lavalier be OK? (I've heard good things about them for the price (mixed on amazon though!), but unsure if they count as 'powered' as in this application))

I will get the remote control too: had found a good deal for an accessory pack and I was wondering :)

u/Parthill · 1 pointr/headphones

Hey, I need a new headset. To answer the common questions:

Budget: Undetermined / anything. Say, under $500.

Source: PC and iPhone. Mostly PC, with a Soundblaster ZXR soundcard. I also have an external amp I use with speakers, but most likely won't connect my headphones to that.

Isolation: More is better. I used them to block people-noise on busses/airplanes as well as listen to music/gaming. (the 'bus noise'/whitenoise on airplanes doesn't bother me, it's the people noise that I want gone)

Public: Yes

Type: Over ear. Closed back.

Tonal Balance: Unsure. I like how my current headphones sound, but I'm open to better alternatives. I heavily dislike tinny sound.

Past headphones: Currently use Beyer DT770 Pro, but they're dying on me. Bass is going (vibrating?), the earpads are coming off, the foam covering the drivers has disintegrated.

Other concerns: Vastly prefer all metal/little plastic construction for durability.

Looking to improve: I need a mic. Every single mic I've tried so far has been unable to pick up my voice reliably. I'm not sure if that means I should buy something like a modmic or if I should buy a "headset" with the mic built in. For mics I've tried: Desktop boom mics, blue snowball, ZXR "puck" mic, this one: https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATR-3350-Omnidirectional-Condenser-Microphone/dp/B002HJ9PTO/ref=cm_cr_dp_asin_lnk
With all of them I get complaints that I'm too quiet. This is with the gain maxed in the game + sound card + windows. I always have to disable noise canceling because otherwise the mic does not pick up my voice.

Positional audio is important, but the soundcard can fake it or the game can fake it with stereo headphones, so not worth buying based on that.

Primary usage is gaming; I have speakers for listening to music. Secondary usage is listening to music on my iphone / blocking sound from other people while traveling(active canceling is useless because it usually lets voices through).

u/ledd · 1 pointr/videography

How familiar are you with SLRs in general? If you already know what your doing go for it. If not, your better off getting one of the Sony or Canon camcorders.

But since I know your budget I'd reccomend this mic running into this recorder. You can hear and audio sample here.

This is a nice simple/cheap lighting kit.

That will leave around $650 for a camera.

You can change up the lights a bit if you need more money for a camera. You can get this and this to diffuse the third light since the kit only comes with 2 umbrellas.

u/14nicholasse · 1 pointr/Nikon

you could also buy a lav mic like this, plug it into the h1n, put it in the talent's pocket, and then sync the audio using the audio that the camera records.

u/SecretAgentX9 · 1 pointr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

You might be on to something. It's not stereo but it's omni mono. That might have something to do with it.

This is the exact model:

(also, thanks)

http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATR-3350-Omnidirectional-Condenser-Microphone/dp/B002HJ9PTO

u/alpental · 1 pointr/videography

Thanks for the advice! In terms of wired lav mics, do you know what's typically recommended for audio quality? I've seen the ATR-3350 thrown around a lot but that seems to be more of a budget thing primarily used with the H1. I don't think I'd need wireless, just want something to sound good as I think the video will be presented onstage to an audience with large sound systems, etc.

u/Aco2504 · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

If you really want real monitors, pass on the Edifiers and get the classics: JBL 305 Mkii

Two of those, some angled foam stands, and the proper cords/adaptors (3.5mm to 1/4 TRS) to hook them up. You may also consider a volume control module, since otherwise you'll have to do so via digital controls. All of that will get you to $250-300 or so.

Are you doing audio production? Why monitors over speakers?

u/MABdesign · 1 pointr/Bluetooth_Speakers

Could something like this work?
JBL Professional 305P MkII 5" 2-Way Powered Studio Monitor (new model) - 305PMKII https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077N2GQXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_03YXCbJE7PEJG

u/AbrahmLion · 1 pointr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

I can find only fragments of the other thread you're referring to, but the TS-to-RCA cable is legit. It's not an adapter or coupler or anything like that. It certainly won't be the best connection option, but again, it works (it wouldn't damage the audio interface or the speaker), and it would cost far less than a pair of new monitors.

I looked at those speakers you have (or had). They're these? Those are more like bookshelf speakers, not active studio monitors. And $400 for the pair? You can do better than that for less money.

The JBL 305P monitors are another popular choice. They cost $150 each, and taxes/shipping could push the cost of the pair past your $300 budget. But both the Presonus and JBL monitors are fine choices.

u/PriceKnight · 1 pointr/bapcsalescanada

Price History


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u/The_Paul_Alves · 1 pointr/podcasting

I'd go with a mixer. You can get a decent behringer for $200 with 3-4 mic inputs (XLR) and get yourself 3-4 decent xlr mics and cables. That way you dont have to all be huddled around one microphone. You could set up a table and go at it. From that mixer, a cable or two going to a digital audio device like a steinberg C1 into your PC or Mac for recording. Most mixers also have a second output you could plug into a phone or something like a Zoom recorder so you have a backup recording in case the PC or Mac doesnt record for whatever reason.

Or to do it on the cheap, just a portable Zoom recorder like THIS ONE can be setup on a tiny tripod somewhere in the room. I've used a Zoom H1 to record whole panels at comic conventions and the audio actually came out pretty damn good. John Barrowman from Arrow/Doctor Who actually touched my recorder making it priceless so I can't sell it sorry. :)

u/SplatterBox214 · 1 pointr/TheWokeBible

https://www.amazon.com/Zoom-H4N-Digital-Multitrack-Recorder/dp/B01DPOXS8I/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1527699189&sr=8-6&keywords=zoom+mic

Something like this will actually really clean up the audio. It filters background noise and captures the audio really well. Let us know when you start a podcast!

u/239not235 · 1 pointr/Filmmakers

Best and cheapest are two different things. IMHO, you want the best sound possible since audio makes your film look better.

You can get a lot of bang for your buck with a Zoom H4N audio recorder, a RODE mic and a boom pole. If you have a couple of bucks more, look at a pair of RODE wireless lavalier mics as well. These are wireless body mics. You can use those on actors, but also they can be hidden on set in places that are hard for the boom to reach. The key idea about recording audio is to get the mic as close as possible to the person speaking.

You probably also want a slate with a clapper on the top. You don't need a fancy one with timecode. Apps like Davinci Resolve can sync sound automatically, but it's always better to have a clap at the top of the shot in case you need to sync it by hand. Slating your shots laso make it easier to figure things out in the editing room.

u/personinplace56 · 1 pointr/audio

Thank you for the reply.

​

Are you able to tell me a bit more about what the right hardware adapters would be?

​

I am also considering using something like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DPOXS8I/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=wirerealm-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B01DPOXS8I&linkId=9382e0d9bf5a4be789c79856961a39d5 instead of a phone but they seem to use the full mic inputs and not have 2 points of a AUX style lavalier mic input.

u/golftangodelta · 1 pointr/Filmmakers

Look into the Black Magic Pocket Cinema Camera. It's about $1000 without lenses. It shoots ProRes and RAW HD. Get a free copy of Resolve to edit and color grade the footage. It's a great little camera that takes beautiful footage, and Resolve takes it to the next level.

Here are some samples to give you an idea of the quality.

For £4000, you should be able to get a camera, batteries, memory cards, lenses, ND filters and an outboard audio recorder and mic.

I recommend these lenses:

Tokina 11-17mm

Voigtlander 25mm

Sigma 18-35

The Voigtlander is MFT, but the other two I recommend getting in Nikon, and buying an Nikon-to-MFT adapter. Part of the joy of MFT is that you can use nearly any kind of lens with the proper adapter.

I also recommend getting two kinds of adapter: a straight adapter, and a MetaBones Speed Booster, which widens the focal length of the lens and adds about a stop of light. It's like getting twice the number of lenses for the cost of an adapter. (For example, the 11-17mm lens goes to 8mm with the Speed Booster.)

u/oddsnsodds · 1 pointr/audiophile

They probably boosted the price at that link because it gets a lot of hits from here. Try this one:

https://smile.amazon.com/JBL-305PMKII-Powered-Studio-Monitor/dp/B077N2GQXC/

u/bzzking · 1 pointr/audiophile

I purchased a pair of JBL 305P MkII 5" (new model)
, hooked up to my existing FiiO E10K USB DAC and Amplifier line out with Hosa Breakout Cable, Mini Stereo 3.5 mm to Mono 6.3 mm



When the JBL volume is at 3, it sounds fine, at volume of 5 I hear static. This is the volume on the JBL itself, the E10K AMP volume isn't controlling the JBL volume for some reason. How can I get rid of the statis at higher volume?

u/KingJoopIII · 1 pointr/vinyl

r/audiophile recommends the JBL 305 mkII active speakers.

I would try to listen to this and take it from there.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/JBL-Professional-Powered-Studio-Monitor/dp/B077N2GQXC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1543073436&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=jbl+306p&dpPl=1&dpID=41fc1u-32OL&ref=plSrch#&vs=1

If you're looking for passive speakers, mind you will need a decent amp to power them.

I own an Audio Technica lp120 record player with a Denon AVR X1100-W receiver and Bowers & Wilkins 685 s2 speakers.
I am very happy with the speakers. I recommend these if your room isn't too big.

I will be upgrading the cartridge to a Nagaoke MP110 in the future and I will be looking for a decent phono preamp as well. I would like to have more warmth in the sound. Perhaps tubes, but no decision has been made.
Someday I would like to upgrade the amp as well.

u/mathcrunk · 1 pointr/audiophile

Hey, I'm looking to buy the JBL 305s for sale on Amazon today. https://www.amazon.com/JBL-305PMKII-Powered-Studio-Monitor/dp/B077N2GQXC
I want to pair them with a turntable and also have the ability to play music from a phone or computer via a 3.5 mm input without switching cables constantly.

Would something like the Mackie big knob monitor switcher be a good choice to switch inputs and control volume? Or would going with a more traditional receiver and passive speaker setup be a more expensive but better choice?
https://www.musiciansfriend.com/pro-audio/mackie-big-knob-passive-monitor-controller/j49165000000000?cntry=us&source=3WWMWXGP&gclid=Cj0KCQiA597fBRCzARIsAHWby0G-V7o4TGThzlno4Sr-vVLEXdk9NW0ydvlKt3Erlv8BX20Wu0TqFaIaArPmEALw_wcB

I'm also looking for a turntable but this JBL deal is what I want to buy first, and what I need feedback on if active monitors are the right choice for me.

The space is a living room that opens into a dining room and a kitchen behind it.

Thank you!

u/Noiseenthusiast8 · 1 pointr/vinyl

Amazon only has the white ones on sale but you can get black on the KEF site.

KEF Q150 Bookshelf Speakers (Pair, White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0728GJWD9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pEW9Bb23AWPAT

https://www.kefdirect.com/specials/specials/q150-bookshelf-speaker.html

Sorry for the fugly links my phone isn’t working properly today.

There’s also some JBL powered monitors on sale, you’d have to get two of these and some extra kit, but they’re also highly regarded...

JBL 305P MkII 5" 2-Way Powered Studio Monitor (new model) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077N2GQXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_hJW9BbX4SVFJC

u/freewarefreak · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

Got it. Thank you.

Are these the right ones? They don't day LSR

JBL 305P MkII 5" 2-Way Powered Studio Monitor (new model) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077N2GQXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_7VQ9BbVDSW1QG

Edit: these look like a newer model. i'm reasearching now to see if they're still good.

u/insojust · 1 pointr/edmproduction

I've seen some solid subs for less than $200. JBL speakers have been really good in my experience. I've also heard good things about this subwoofer.

u/kuraimusic · 1 pointr/edmproduction

KRK's are good because you can find them used for cheap online due to their popularity. Yamaha HS series is well respected and has a flatter response, will probably translate better on other systems.

But I've been seeing fantastic reviews on the JBL monitors, I'd check these out aswell.
https://www.amazon.com/JBL-305PMKII-Powered-Studio-Monitor/dp/B077N2GQXC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1543356952&sr=8-3&keywords=jbl+monitor

The six inch model also happens to be on sale.

u/MankYo · 1 pointr/audiophile

... So that the designers can match the unique characteristics of the drivers in the enclosure with non-linear responses of a network of caps, varistors/log pots, inductors, etc. in a controlled way, for the user to tune the speaker to the listening space and equipment with better results and less effort.

This $100 "Sonart 10" 300W Powered Active Subwoofer" calls the adjustment "frequency":

https://www.amazon.com/Sonart-Powered-Subwoofer-Front-Firing-Surround/dp/B07KN3MQKZ

This $150 JBL LSR 305 calls the adjustment "Boundary EQ" and "HF Trim"

www.amazon.com/JBL-305PMKII-Powered-Studio-Monitor/dp/B077N2GQXC/

The $1,250 Verus III Grand Tower Speaker has an option called the "treble mod" which is probably a $3 resistor and/or capacitor in a $$-$$$ plastic case:

https://www.aperionaudio.com/products/verus-iii-grand-tower-speaker

The $3,600 Dynaudio Xeo 30 Floorstanding Speakers have adjustable active digital crossovers:

https://www.dynaudio.com/home-audio/xeo/xeo-30

Several of the $$$$-$$$$$ Infinity IRS speakers use an outboard device dedicated to adjusting low-pass and high pass filters, and other related settings:

https://tmraudio.com/product/tmr-1172

There are also plenty of good speakers that don't have on-board adjustable crossovers, into which the user can throw whatever EQed signal is desired.

u/ak474000 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Pretty small for boom arms, but the only other option for a discreet mic is something like Mod Mic or a Lavalier microphone .

Unless you don't mind the desk noise that may happen with it on a surface, many do come with stands you can put on your desk anyway. Blue has a mic called the Snowflake more of on the go laptop usage, but is pretty high quality and is very small.

u/brnrmbo · 1 pointr/diyaudio

What are you going to be recording with; phone, computer, other? I assume you will only be mixing the mic?

If you intend to record to your phone I would recommend either the Rode Video Micro or for a lapel the Audio Technica 3350

If you are looking for a USB dacs I would recommend behringer as it fits your budget. I use the U-Phoria UMC22 at my desk but I also have Behringer mixers in 5,8 and 12 channels - they all sound the same.

For the xlr mic I would normally recommend an SM58 but given your budget I think the Peavey 100 will work just fine and it comes with the XLR cable you would need. Don't forget a mic stand, these are as cheap as 10 dollars for table mount stands.

u/DerBrizon · 1 pointr/audio

I think I'm going to try this one and test it. If the wind noise is still too much, I'll look into the a windjammer.

It's probably pretty cheap, but it has it's own battery power supply - so there's no wondering about whether it'll have power, I think and I like the on/off switch. The person who made the mod tutorial did not end up with very good audio quality at all, just mostly-reduced wind because of his external mic placement, which did not lend to good audio quality as the mic was in the tail of his bike, which is basically the usual storage place for a rattling circuit-breaker box. It almost exclusively picked up muffled engine noise.

If you have any thoughts on that mic selection, I'd appreciate it.

Thanks for your help!

u/SolMarch · 1 pointr/videography

A short on-camera shotgun like the Rode VideoMic Pro works best in an open environment (e.g. outdoors). When used indoors, it is susceptible to echo from audio bouncing around the room.

Bringing the mic closer to the source (i.e. the interviewee) will help in any environment.

You can use a boom pole with a shotgun mic to position the mic closer to the source if you have another person who can handle sound.

A lav mic is another way to position the mic close to the source for optimal quality. The Audio-Technica ATR-3350 lav mic suggested by u/reddit is an affordable option if you're just starting out.

The main issue with recording audio directly to the camera is that the preamps on most DSLRs are not high quality. It can definitely be usable though if you set the camera's audio level as low as possible and feed it a strong audio signal.

A good external recorder will have better preamps, gain control, limiters, etc. which are all useful tools in recording usable audio. The main downside is that you need to manage separate audio files for every clip and sync them up with the video in post. This can often be automated using software like PluralEyes, but it's not 100% bulletproof and it adds another step in your post-production workflow.

u/BatsOnBats · 1 pointr/Filmmakers

Would this work with an iPhone? Also, would you recommend recording with a boom mic simultaneously with the lapel mic?

u/beley · 1 pointr/podcasting

I have the Audio-Technica ATR3350 and it's a great mic for the price, but it's not a XLR connector. You could plug it into the Zoom with a 3.5mm to 1/4" adapter though. I have heard the Rode lavalier mic is awesome, but it's several times the cost of the AT. It also doesn't have an XLR connector, but it has a proprietary connector and there are XLR adapters for it.

u/HybridCameraRevoluti · 1 pointr/videography

The [Audio Technica ATR3350 costs about $28.50] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002HJ9PTO/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B002HJ9PTO&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) and has 50 to 18,000 Hz frequency response and -54dB of sensitivity.

The [Bronstein LM15 costs $19.95] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EZB9XY4/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00EZB9XY4&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) and has 20 to 20,000 Hz frequency response and -47dB +/-2dB sensitivity.

The Bronstein is less expensive, is more sensitive and has better frequency response. I own an Audio Technica lav that came with my Audio Technica wireless set, and I wouldn't buy another one.

Hope that helps.

u/ZeGermanHam · 1 pointr/CarTrackDays

Nothing super fancy. Just a GoPro Hero4 mounted to my roll bar. For audio, I use a lavalier mic from Audio-Technica. I run the mic through the trunk and tape it to the rear bumper. Your Corvette looks like a lot of fun, BTW! :)

u/xdrift0rx · 1 pointr/cars

yup! the gopro 2 uses the standard mini mic plug so it plugs right in, the newer gopros require a USB to mic plug.

Cable: 6 m (20') terminated with 3.5 mm (1/8") dual mono mini-plug

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002HJ9PTO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/jam6618 · 1 pointr/videography

Depending on the work you are doing, you could use one or several of many options.

The first is to use a more directional shotgun mic on top of your camera or mounted on a boom pole above your subject to capture a more focused and cleaner sound.

The second is to use a lavalier/lav/lapel mic clipped to your subject's clothing. Wired (if you are cheaper or are recording to an external recorder) and wireless if you are rich. Wired and wireless both have many options. Wired: option 1, option 2, option 3, option 4, option 5. Wireless: option 1, option 2, option 3. The wired lavs are a bunch of good ones at different price points. The wireless ones are three industry standard sets at different prices.

There are many more options you could do but those would be for more specialized jobs.

u/PeglegMediaFL · 1 pointr/videography

it depends what you do. If you do voice overs get a yeti. Same for gaming. If you want to film interviews and get decent audio you can buy a $25 lav with a cord: http://amzn.to/1QjgXke - this works well for quick interviews or blogs

u/UniqueSteve · 1 pointr/DSLR

I'm not a professional, but I thought this one did a good job especially for $25.

http://amzn.com/B002HJ9PTO

u/Bexbox8 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Silverstone PS07B? Im sure Silverstone has more quiet ITX cases but their naming system is weird so I never remember the. Keep in mind you can always buy your own sound dampening foam and add it.


something like this should do the trick. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0040JHMH6/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687642&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00MAQNAPY&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=GNR74PB5NPXKWC9325TZ

u/jacobsmirror · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Here's what I used.

u/ChicksDigNerds · 1 pointr/headphones

The outer black material is SilverStone Sound Dampening Acoustic Foam and the small inner circle is self-adhesive felt from a craft store like Michael's or Hobby Lobby (specifically Creatology branded).

4" PVC pipe filled with foam (either yellow sponges or foam used to make chair pads), blank CD attached to one end using silicone sealant, two layers of SilverStone foam on the CD, one layer of felt on the SilverStone foam, small slit cut in the middle and push tip of the mic through. I mounted the whole thing in a small box filled with foam and reinforced with duct tape for rigidity, but mainly just used as a stand.

u/TwoCraZyEyes0 · 1 pointr/buildapc

sorry for the late reply, i forgot about it and got busy. my hard drive is sitting at 32C right now. [here is what it looks like] (http://imgur.com/69B9Vex). and i used [this] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0040JHMH6/ref=sr_rp_1?m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&ie=UTF8&qid=1457685124&sr=sr-1&keywords=sound+dampening)

u/ye_itsher · 1 pointr/Dell

Hi, sorry I don't have a picture for you and I'm out of the country at the moment and can't take the laptop apart. But it's very simple - I just took a piece of double sided tape and taped 1 side of the foam to the back plate and closed it back up. I'm sure you can substitute the material as well. What I noticed is that having the 9 cell battery is that the foam will be against the battery, which might get hot, so you might want to keep that in mind if you use another material. However if you have the smaller battery, then I believe it's just an empty space where the HDD would go.

Edit: So this is what the foam stuff is, it makes complete sense https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-21-Inch-Dampening-Acoustic-SF01/dp/B0040JHMH6/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1496798617&sr=8-4-fkmr2&keywords=laptop+noise+dampening+material

u/hinosaki · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

I'm using an old NZXT Source 210 and modded the side panel and rear with some Silverstone Sound Dampening material/foam. You can cut it to the shape you need, and it has an adhesive on the back that stuck pretty well to my case. Overall, it definitely helped dampen the high frequency noise coming from my case. You might be able to find cheaper alternatives though. The foam is a bit thin, about 1/4" or so, but it made a noticeable difference.

I could upload & post some pictures later today if you like.

u/Rabid-Duck-King · 1 pointr/DestinyTheGame

The third point was in reference to this basically.

If you got the money I'd say go for it (Noctura and Scythe make some really solid 20dB or lower CPU coolers) , but if you like the cooler and don't want to install a new heat sink maybe try some acoustic sound dampening foam for your PC to see if that brings the sound to a manageable level.

u/hoon_bair · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Any1 use this Silverstone foam for case noise dampening? If so how is it?

u/jwiebe98 · 1 pointr/AnnePro

It's the Silverstone SF01. It did make a difference, I wouldn't say it's more quiet. Rather it feels more solid to type on and gives the keyboard more density.

u/insertsnideremarks · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I've used this (https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-21-Inch-Dampening-Acoustic-SF01/dp/B0040JHMH6) in my boards, mostly because I already had one lying around the house. I remember some here have used drawer liners as well.

u/TerryMathews · 1 pointr/mechmarket

Yeah I gotchu. On my TKC1800 builds, I used this so I didn't have to mess with it.

u/mu_killnine · 1 pointr/CableManagement

Get some foam on that back panel, that's the only thing that doesn't seem to fit with the bright white...

http://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-21-Inch-Dampening-Acoustic-SF01/dp/B0040JHMH6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1345135728&sr=8-1&keywords=silverstone+foam

Excellent otherwise, A++

u/brianjking · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Thanks. I prefer the BT with the Type-S sliders & rings. I'll definitely be adding a vibration mat to the bottom of it as well, just haven't ordered it yet. I'll probably add some sound dampening foam to the internal case of both HHKBs. I prefer the nice dampened thock sound from a more silenced board and the HHKB BT has a more hefty body than the standard Professional 2 models which is nice as well.

I actually harvested the Type-S sliders & rings from an old Pro 2 Type-S that I have since sold with normal Topre sliders with kbdfans silence-x rings.

I've also owned a stock Pro 2, a HHKB Professional JP with kbdfans silence-x and Hasu BT Controller and probably one or two more off the top of my head.

The MX board is an interesting departure for me as before I discovered Topre I was using Tactile MX switches (started with Cherry Browns, then Gateron Browns, then Zealios 67g). I kept hearing great things from primarily topre users that were finding Cherry MX Silent Blacks or Silent Reds appealing if they were to use MX switches. I decided to give it a try and do not see myself going back to an MX tactile switch, linear is the way to go for MX, for me anyway.

u/NexuGX · 1 pointr/AnnePro

You would have to cut it down a bit and be careful how thick it would be around the battery.

I have never heard of IsolateIt though I would rather go with SilverStone since people use it commonly for sound dampening in keyboards - https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-21-Inch-Dampening-Acoustic-SF01/dp/B0040JHMH6/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1504654931&sr=8-7&keywords=sound+dampening+foam

u/tbSWEGGY · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards
u/Pyro6000 · 1 pointr/livesound

I'm thinking about buying a mic for discord, maybe streaming (emphasis maybe) and am leaning towards a dynamic mic because I've been told that they're better for reducing background noise vs a condenser.

If I get a dynamic mic with XLR out, what would be the okayest way to hook it up to my PC with acceptable input levels? At the moment, I'm considering this headset with the mic connected to the PC via this XLR to USB cable. Will that combination work ok, or should I be looking at something else?

The other thing I'm considering is this USB stand-alone mic and having game sound through my speakers.

I apologise is this isn't the right place to ask.

u/Con17 · 1 pointr/makinghiphop

I ended up going with the one you said and I also got a pop filter. What do you think? Also what do you suggest I do to make a more audio recording friendly environment?
https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT2005USB-Cardioid-Dynamic-Microphone/dp/B007JX8O0Y/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465590510&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=Audio+techna+AT2005+USB+microphone

u/mrselkies · 1 pointr/headphones

I'm currently using this microphone on this boom stand, clamped to the side of my desk. I originally invested in this setup because I was planning on streaming on Twitch and making youtube videos, so I wanted the good quality of the microphone and I liked the aesthetic that the boom arm provided. I was originally looking at the Blue Snowball and other mics and eventually settled on this one because the dynamic microphone was better than condensed ones for my purposes (doesn't pick up nearly as much environment noise).

It's now 2.5 years later and I've disliked this setup for a long time. I'm still using it because I just haven't gotten around to switching to something else (probably going to go with the Antlion ModMic). The microphone (even this cheaply priced, low end one) is completely overkill quality-wise. Sure, everybody on Teamspeak and Skype thinks I sound the best of anyone on there, but it's not like that matters, especially for me - I'm not the one hearing it. If you're going to be streaming or making videos, yeah, the quality is absolutely paramount, but just for general gaming it's very overkill. I've heard the ModMic's quality from multiple sources - youtube reviews, friends on skype/teamspeak, etc - and it sounds just fine. In fact, it's been a very long time since I've heard a modern microphone whose quality is insufficient for gaming and perhaps professional webinars.

Now, the thing that makes me dislike the setup is that the boom arm has become make-you-want-to-flip-your-desk levels of noisy as you move it, and I move it back and forth constantly. It takes up such a ridiculous amount of space that I'm moving it all the time because it's just uncomfortable and inconvenient and in the way when I'm not using it. When I am using it, it's permanently in my peripheral vision and that's just something I've had to get used to, but all for what? There are so many reasons NOT to go with a table mic or other kind of setup that really you should only be doing it if what you're doing requires, really, professional level sound. Other mics, like the Vmoda Boompro mic, the Antlion ModMic, hell even the cheap as dirt Zalman clip-on mic for like $8 will do the job just fine. Dealing with the extra cable that comes from the ModMic or a clip on mic is LEEEEEAGUES ahead of the solutions you'll need to employ to get rid of desk/keyboard sounds going through your table mic (you pretty much need a shock mount). On top of that, with the table mic you need to worry about placement, it takes up space on your desk which is dumb, or you end up with some dumb thing like a boom arm which is the absolute opposite of elegant, especially when it starts creaking and literally sounding like Santa Claus's workshop every time it moves a millimeter. Sorry, this turned into more of a rambling rant because honestly I've just been dealing with this shitty setup every single day for 2.5 years without benefiting at all from the quality of the microphone except for, I guess, just knowing that I sound better than everyone else on Teamspeak. I'm probably going to go on Amazon and order a ModMic or something directly after hitting save on this comment.

I guess the take-away here, my advice would be to drop the mindset that the quality that comes from a table mic like a Blue Snowball, Yeti, Sampson Meteor Mic, etcetcetc is needed and worth the hassle that is a table mic. Move forward with the mindset that other solutions - BETTER solutions - are just as good, especially when quality really isn't something that's make or break for you. Streaming and making youtube videos and such makes microphone quality pretty much the most important part of your setup because no one wants to listen to you unless you sound perfect, but gaming and the occasional webinar is a much different situation.

If you have any questions let me know.

u/farski · 1 pointr/podcasting

http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B007JX8O0Y

Without much else to go on, this is as good a suggestion as any. It's plug and play (like any USB mic), comes with a desk stand, and is a dynamic mic, so it will be better suited for poor room conditions. If you provide more info about how the mic will be used, may be able to give a better suggestion. Also a budget would be good.

u/Mikzeroni · 1 pointr/podcasting

Alternatively, there's the ATR-2100 which fluctuates in price. The Q2u and ATR-2100 are almost the same mic, they just vary in price and shipping mostly. There's also the ATR-2005 . Both are dynamic mics which offer USB and XLR so your setup can grow to XLR later down the line.

u/NovaKitFoX · 1 pointr/letsplay

I jsut made the switch from a Blue Yeti to a Dynamic mic and XLR set up. I'll post what i picked up. May be a little over kill for solo but gives plenty of room for expansion.

First up, the MIC

Audio-Technica AT2005USB Cardioid Dynamic USB/XLR Microphone

This as it states is a DUEL USB and XLR Dynamic Mic. Since I got it i have loved using it for LEt's plays to just Team chat in games and at Lan Parties. It's got what you expect from a USB Mic. Has a Headphone jack and on board volume for the headphones, And an ON/OFF switch. But then it is also XLR compatible. So it's not something you will toss out the door when you move to XLR.

To go with it i got a desk mount Etubby Adjustable Desktop Microphone Suspension Boom Scissor Arm Stand Holder and some better Mounts for the stand. I have it set up so i just push it out of the way when i don't need it.

As for a mix board i have picked up this
Behringer Q1202USB 12-Channel Mixer.

As in the name as well this is a USB mixer. This does have phantom power if needed, has 4 XLR Inputs , and 12 Channels. And it's only 100 bucks or less depending on Amazon's Mood. And if you got any Music stores around you, This is also sold by GUITAR CENTER in the states, So you may be able to find it locally for same or cheeper.

Since i got it, I Had a little bit of a learning curb and the need to turn up the Compression on the mic channels. First recording with it was well a little blown out. I use this even when solo now cause I get more control over the MIC levels. It's easy to use in windows as it is very much plug and play. Shows up as USB AUDIO CODEC in windows. And if you want to, you CAN send you audio back out through it. Though that part i'm still learning on if it's usable in recordings or not.

I'm Not sure how much Cost wise that will Translate into £'s. But this over all Cost me $180 just for the mic and Mixer. The Mic did come with an XLR cable with it, so you do not need to buy one unless you need it to be longer.

Long post, I Know, But hopefully that gives a few useful suggestions for ya.

u/JohannesVerne · 1 pointr/microphones

If you are getting a USB mic, the AT2020USB isn't bad. There are a few others to look at as well though, like the FiFine K670, CAD GXL2400, or the Audio-Technica ATR2500 for condensers, or the Samson Q2U or Audio-Technica AT2005 if you wanted a dynamic. If you can, listen to some tests and decide for yourself which sounds best between those and the AT2020USB.

​

With a USB mic, acoustic treatment is very important. They typically have a slightly harsh sound to the upper frequencies to begin with, and reverb from an untreated room will amplify that. If you can get the room treated it will still sound good, and the treatment can be anything from buying panels to throwing up some thick blankets against the walls. Even a high-end XLR setup will sound bad without a treated space, but USB mics tend to sound extra harsh if you don't have a treated room. So long as you have something to cut the echo, you should be fine.

u/MrMcStabby · 1 pointr/Twitch

The Blue Yeti is wonderful at picking up all sorts of noises you don't want picked up. I got rid on mine and went to an AT20-05. I spent about 2 weeks researching mica and looking at all of the options. The AT20-05 you can run off of a USB connection or XLR.

Right now I am just using the USB directly into my PC and I have had multiple comments on how my voice sounds better and there is less background noise. Eventuality I plan on swapping to the XLR and buying all of the components to go a more professional route, but for now this works great.

Just another option to consider.

Plus it is only $79 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007JX8O0Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_w5vozbS4GAZ8W

u/prairiepenguin2 · 1 pointr/podcasting

Auducity can be wonky but works well. Are y'all in the same room or remote?

Obviously a good mic is important. Can't go wrong with the snowball or yeti. I personally use this

Audio-Technica AT2005USB Cardioid... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007JX8O0Y?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share (non affiliate link) and love it compared to the blue mics. When you can getting a sound board is really nice and really helps with your quality

u/theguycalledtom · 1 pointr/podcasts

Audio Technica have a slightly cheaper USB Dynamic, the ATR2005. For another $5 less there is the Samson Q2u which some say has the exact same innards as the Audio Technicas, but i can't confirm that. Otherwise you may have to keep an eye out for sales. Just make sure you at least get a foam windscreen for each mic so you have some sort of pop-filtering.

Avoid Blue microphones because the chances of all three of you having recording environments where a Condenser microphone works better than a Dynamic are very low.

u/Xyless · 1 pointr/podcasting

So these are what I'm looking at so far.

Audio Interface: M-Audio M-Track Eight 8-Channel USB Audio Interface
Microphones: 7 AT2005USBs (which apparently come with a stand and an XLR cable)

Total would come to be about $800.

u/NovaWork · 1 pointr/letsplay

What Hardware are you using, as in MIC. is it the mic from a Gaming headset or something else? It sounds like to me it's a MIC built into a gaming headset. Most headsets focused on gaming do not have great microphones. So if that is what your using. Will want to look at using a different mic.

If you want to get better audio without tons of extra hardware. i would look at getting the Audio-Technica AT2005USB

It's a good starting mic and can stick with you for a while cause it does support XLR if you decide to get a Mix board or or a simple XLR-USB interface. Other wise even using USB it does a great job in my book. Sure there are better options out there, but will require more hardware than just the MIC it self.

u/Centrobe · 1 pointr/Twitch

I recently got the AT2005usb and I LOVE it. I got it for around $58, but it is back up to 80. Keep an eye on it though, if it's available in your country and the price goes down, I highly recommend. I switched from a snowball. I didn't like it much. Also, the channel Podcastage on YouTube has reviews for a lot of mics, cheap ones included. Maybe watch some of his reviews and see if something tickles your fancy.

EDIT: I've seen the at2005usb go below 50. It's a matter of patients.

u/fitzrhapsody · 1 pointr/podcasts

Don't get a Yeti. Get an Audio Technica AT2005 microphone.

Almost any veteran podcaster here will tell you do NOT get a Yeti or Blue Snowball for your first mic. They somehow are more well-known and do better marketing, but you're much, much better off with an Audio Technica mic.

u/RadarGaming · 1 pointr/podcasts

Im glad you liked the show!

Im using the Audio-Technica ATR2100

The Audio-Technica AT2005 is the same mic just looks different.

u/Agent_X10 · 1 pointr/explainlikeimfive

Get a COMREX bitches! :D

http://www.comrex.com/products/bric-link-ii/

You can get a CHEAP piece of crap mic that will do wonders for responsiveness.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007JX8O0Y/ref=pd_cp_0_4

you can even do a software solution rather than a comrex.

http://feenphone.com

then skype, mumble, all sorts of others.

Even just a smartphone, the mics in those are good enough for fairly high def recording, enough that you can tell the RPM of an engine pretty well up to around 14-16k RPMs.

Really no reason to be smashing things through a shitty uLaw/muLaw filter when you've got digital multiplexing and CPU power to burn. The dialogix codec is older than dinosaur shit, and you can still get ok sound out of crap bandwidth.

I think you could get ok audio, about 5 hours worth transfered over a 28.8k connection in under an hour. Once wavelets got onto the scene you could do even better than that, but there was no point. They were using that tech to do 160x100 pixel video over 28.8k connections, and audio, meh, just use any crap codec, as long as it'll sync with the video steams. Welcome to the hell that was RealPlayer 3

So, I'd say its more a level of lazy, and everyone just got into the inertia of being used to crap audio.

u/DungeonsandDrinks · 1 pointr/letsplay

Condenser mics are good for picking up a lot of people, but they also create a lot of background noise too. I used a condenser for 2 years, we JUST made the switch. Now i use 4 dynamic mics, via an xlr to USB interface. We record in adobe audition. Even if you dont record in it, i recommend learning it and running your audio through it for post editing. ill link all my useful stuff and equipment. These will all be amazon links.

The Mics

Good Mic Stands for cheap

interface

if you go through the trouble of learning audition this is helpful. This is the algorithm the Game Grumps use, i cannot state enough what an amazingly drastic quality difference this makes. it raises the lows, lowers the highs, evens it all out.

Dynamic Audio Processing Chart

​

I should mention that to record multiple mic inputs, you need either an additional sound card, or the ASIO4ALL driver (which hogs your soundcard making it so you cant hear your game, booo.) The alternate solution i went for is recording the audio on another PC.

​

If you're recording with lots of people, to avoid audio spillover (one person being picked up on another's mic) you want to record with each track at the near lowest possible Gain/Volume/Db, and raise it all later. this will make the mics only pick up the voice right in front of them. I usually also angle all the mics in a way that they face only their speaker, but not others. I can elaborate on this further if you like. Then i run it all thru the Dynamic Processing. I think that about covers the gist of it, sorry for how detailed it was lol. If anyone is curious, i can give good tips on creating thumbnails, info about how i make my art and music, how i edit my videos and general technique too, when i have time

u/pr_eliment · 1 pointr/podcasting

oh ok so I am not sure about the one I linked to but I can say for certain that this one does because it's the one I have. It has a brass adapter that you can unscrew from the shockmount. (if you look closely at the pics you can see the brass adapter on the shockmount)

u/Ramzinho · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

here are some mounts with great reviews and used by some casters. comes from as low as 18$ to 100$. depending on your budget.

1

2

3

u/legodawg0088 · 1 pointr/letsplay

Do you have the xlr or usb version? if its xlr any old xlr cable should work, but the usb uses this cable . Personally I use this shockmount and this desk mount which isn't very bad for the price but you can definitely tell its a cheap mount. Most of the accessories are garbage and I ended up cutting out the XLR cable and wiring my usb cable through it, but if you have the xlr version I guess it'll work fine for you. I know for a fact that shock mount you just linked doesn't work, but it does come with the desk mount I linked (for $20 more) so you may as well try it for yourself, the best option would be the Audio Technica shock mount but its pretty pricey. I should also mention the better option for the desk mount would be the Rode desk mount and that the AT2020 on its own is comparable with either desk mount as long as you use the mount that comes with it for the desk stand, just remove the mount itself and screw it to the desk mount. hope my experience could help you out :)

u/bruhsmh · 1 pointr/audioengineering

There is a buzzing sound coming from only only the left channel when I record.

My setup is an AT2020 connected to a Steinberg UR22 via XLR, all connected to my Windows 10 PC. I record in FL Studio. The XLR cable I use is the built in one from this, so the XLR cable isn't the best quality:

https://www.amazon.ca/Neewer-Broadcast-Microphone-Suspension-Scissor/dp/B00AK7SKL4

So here's a recording of it:

https://instaud.io/26LX

Up until 0:10 I am silent and not near the mic and the input is maxed from the interface. Then I start tapping the mic gently. At 0:28, I lower the input level to around half. Silent again, until I tap on it around 0:33.

Is it my Mic, XLR Cable or Interface?

u/ConureDelSol · 1 pointr/Twitch

Not sure what mic you're using but if it has a -10db setting, I'd say change it to that and make sure the mic is close to your mouth. In addition, be sure to use the noise gate.

If you're having trouble positioning your microphone, you might want to consider getting a suspension boom to get it in just the right place without it being in the way of anything.

Example suspension boom for $32: http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Broadcast-Microphone-Suspension-Scissor/dp/B00AK7SKL4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1416686696&sr=8-2&keywords=mic+boom

u/DetroitHustlesHarder · 1 pointr/Twitch

If you don't have a ton of room around your desk, I've found this to be a GREAT solution... I'm using it to hold an AT2020 and it's rock solid. http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Broadcast-Microphone-Suspension-Scissor/dp/B00AK7SKL4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414249617&sr=8-1&keywords=microphone+boom+arm

u/fabier · 1 pointr/Twitch

Yes. This is the exact one I ordered. They have a cheaper one that doesn't have the built in cable, but having the cable is nice since I have an XLR mic :

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AK7SKL4/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_MA4zzbXEG4VBH

Edit: Ha! Just noticed I ordered it exactly two years ago to the day!

u/MumrikDK · 1 pointr/pcgaming

This mount fixed to the right-side edge of my table: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AK7SKL4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Holding this sucker (50 buck sale): http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006H92QK/ref=ox_ya_os_product

With this guy http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002GXF8Q/ref=ox_ya_os_product

It feeds into this guy (for phantom power) who already had been living on my table for years http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UB802-BEHRINGER-EURORACK/dp/B0002JF5CM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417327657&sr=8-2&keywords=eurorack+602

and that goes into my line in.

Yes, it is silly overkill, but it is extremely comfortable to use (just pull in the mike) and I got tired of shitty mikes. Being Cardioid it works perfectly sitting next to my face rather than stuffed into my mouth, so eating and drinking is a non-issue. The stand means it takes pretty much no desk space. The mixer of course does, but that was already there. There's also a USB version of the 2020.

u/GrandStarYoshi · 1 pointr/Twitch

listen to me and tell me using audition to reduce background noise is bullshit. it's not, you just have to know what you're doing. http://www.twitch.tv/grandstaryoshi/v/27950653 (this link is used as an example of audio quality, not advertisement.)

what i do, for those curious/wanting to do the same:

  • in your microphone's preferences, set its levels to 75, + set the default format to 2 channel, 16 bit, 48000Hz. http://prntscr.com/9bagtn

  • using adobe audition, open a multitrack, then go into your audio hardware settings and set the default input device to your microphone, and set the default output device to your default audio device (for me, that would be my headphones.) http://prntscr.com/9bag9u

  • do the same to track 1 of the multitrack (you can delete any other tracks, you only need this one.) http://prntscr.com/9bah80

  • in the effect rack, add a single-band compressor and a parametric equalizer. http://prntscr.com/9bahkh
  • single-band compressor settings: http://prntscr.com/9bahzp + parametric equalizer settings: http://prntscr.com/9bai9z

  • click both the little R and I icons in track 1 of the multitrack. this will make the microphone output to the selected device, in this case, my headphones. http://prntscr.com/9bajgp

    you may see i also have two other effects, dynamics processing and an echo. dynamics processing basically evens out audio levels, bringing quiet sounds up and loud sounds down. i use this for various other things, but not for cutting out background noise. it actually brings that out more. and the echo is just for fun, really. :P

    a couple of things about this setup. one, i run my microphone audio, as well as any other stream audio, through my headphones and only use one channel in OBS, the desktop audio source, and then give that a 5db gain boost within OBS, that way i'm able to know and balance my own audio levels rather than having to constantly ask chat if audio levels are okay. hearing yourself during stream takes a bit of getting used to, but it's super useful in the long run. if you don't want to do this, you can run it through a virtual audio cable and set that as your output device in audition, then set that up as your microphone source in OBS.

    also, i HIGHLY recommend getting a mic arm. the one i use cost me $20 on amazon (http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Suspension-Scissor-Built--Female/dp/B00AK7SKL4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449483500&sr=8-1&keywords=neewer+broadcast+arm), and came with a shock mount. i also don't recommend pop filters unless they're attached to the shock mount out of personal preference, as i've found clamping shock mounts to be super clunky and in the way, especially for streaming. i prefer to use a windscreen (although get one bigger than the one i have. it doesn't cover the entire mic, and more importantly, the actual part you speak into. i just keep it there until i get a bigger one.).

    and the advice about keeping the microphone close to you is very sound. 6 inches, no more than a foot.

    any questions, feel free to ask.
u/k-murder · 1 pointr/podcasting

The NW-700 is a decent mic for the money but you should probably use dynamic mics instead of a condenser mic. You’ll have a lot of issues with sound bleeding with 5 condenser mics in a room.

You could get 2 of these.
3x mic pack

That way you also don’t need phantom power.

Then you can pick up a better mixer with something like this.
mixer

Lastly, you can get 5 Neewer boom arm with XLR cables inside the arm for $18

That puts tour total at about $370 for the setup or about $75 each.

u/ImpoverishedYorick · 1 pointr/buildapc

Scissor arm mic stands can make a huge difference if you have limited desk space. Great for cord-management too. Don't need a mic right now? Just shove the whole thing out of the way.

I'm sure the mic will be fine for most use. Without a digital audio interface, you'll be limited to microphones that are direct USB devices. While they do record sound, you're never really going to get that "radio voice" that you might be seeking. Next step up would be to get an interface and step up to an XLR vocal mic. Shure makes some damn good voiceover mics, but they'll set you back a couple hundred. The difference is night and day, though.

Those headphones are fantastic for listening, but maybe not the best for editing. I'd go for something with a much flatter response that isn't open-ear. I've been using a basic pair of SONY 7506s and I've not had too much of a problem with them. The ears could use a bit more padding, but the sound is good enough to do what I want out of them. Ideally, one should use a decent set of studio monitors for proper editing, but... yeah that's a major investment. For basic voiceover stuff it's not going to be super necessary.

u/Sharpxe · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I actually think it would fit if you unscrewed it from the stand. The scissor mount end is a screw end that can fit a shock mount or a normal mic holder.

I use a Shure SM 57 lo but a lot of people use the Blue Yeti.

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Suspension-Scissor-Built-Mounting/dp/B00AK7SKL4/ref=sr_1_3?srs=2529987011&ie=UTF8&qid=1478956315&sr=8-3&keywords=neewer+mic+arm

u/GinkoWeed · 1 pointr/microphones

Cool, thanks! On the AT2020, do I need any special cords? Part of the reason I wanted the Yeti was because it uses a USB(right?). I'm currently stuck with a laptop, so I don't really want to have to use a bunch of adapters. Also, would something like this work well?

u/jjohnson1979 · 1 pointr/podcasting

I recommend this boom mic stand! Very easy to set up, plus the xlr cable is built into the arm. Love it!

u/clockdaddy · 1 pointr/HeadphoneAdvice

Just finished setting everything up! The only changes I made was I got the Sennheiser HD 599 SEs because they were so cheap on prime day and I got an at2020 and a stand because those were on sale too. One question though, the stand and shock mount combo that I got share the same size thread between the stand and shock mount and I can't screw them into each other. What adapter would I need?

u/Orin965 · 1 pointr/letsplay

Heres the one i have

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00AK7SKL4/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1473355767&sr=8-2&pi=SL75_QL70&keywords=scissor+boom+arm

It works well for me with the AT2020. for $23 Id say its pretty awesome, I dont use the xlr cable, i have that tucked down. This is the Canadian amazon so if your in USA it may be even cheaper for you.

u/Inzane71 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Whatever mount came on this junk stand.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AK7SKL4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

whole thing is super cheap but it accomplishes what I want so I haven't spent the money to get something nicer

u/TiSoBr · 1 pointr/battlestations

Sure buddy: The Neewer nw-35 (using it without the spider)

u/AizuchiKinoko · 1 pointr/audioengineering

It's alright, you're correct it is cheap. It's the connector end of the Neewer desk stand the whole thing was only $25 (Canadian) on amazon.ca. I guess with this particular aspect, is where it truly shows you get what you pay for.

u/RazzlePrince · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

oh sorry I was thinking of the snowball, but it's the ICE version, cheaper and it's just the same mic, but without the different modes, Microphone Link and here are accessories, the boom stand is much better than the tiny stand they give you, and it's better for freedom, and it comes with extra bits for future proofing Suspension Stand Here's some medium quality padding if needed Padding and a nice pop filter to stop the P's and S's slipping through Pop Filter This is all the same stuff I use and it is a wonderful starter kit, I highly recommend this to you!

u/TacticalBacon00 · 1 pointr/Twitch

I have my NEEWER and it's pretty fantastic. It creaks just a little bit when moving it about, but you shouldn't really be doing that while using it. It has that built-in XLR connection, so hooking up my real (non-USB) mic to it is a dream with no wires shooting all over the place.

EDIT: not sure where you're shopping, but amazon has lots of them in stock. 1 2

u/KingNone · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

you can get really nice monitor speakers in that budget. For starters: https://www.amazon.com/Micca-PB42X-Powered-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B00NXAEPDC

https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-CR4-Pair-Reference-Multimedia/dp/B00KVEIY4O

I have the Mackies and think they are awesome but people in similar situations to us prefer the Miccas.

u/OptimusRhymez · 1 pointr/vinyl

What would you guys recommend between these two powered speakers?

Mackie CR4

Micca PB42X

u/Hi__135 · 1 pointr/vinyl

Why would you recommend these specific pair of speakers?
Would you recommend any other?
(I see why they're so good, but I want to know how you came across them and what your thoughts are on them)
> Mackie CR4 Powered Speakers = $150 https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-CR4-Pair-Reference-Multimedia/dp/B00KVEIY4O/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1467666368&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=mackie+cr4

u/acehunter · 1 pointr/battlestations

Im pretty illiterate when it comes so I maybe unclear but how do you attach a sub to powered speakers like the A2's or these Mackie ones I have [1]? Do you need a receiver?

[1] https://www.amazon.ca/Mackie-CR4-Pair-Reference-Multimedia/dp/B00KVEIY4O

u/Bigmitch2 · 1 pointr/vinyl

Nice suggestion! I love the looks of the orbit special but I think I might just go for the plus. If you have personal experience with this turntable, I'm thinking of getting the Orbit Plus with the built in Preamp.

For those with similar requests: U-turn Orbit and Mackie cr4s .

u/Raiken200 · 1 pointr/buildapc

We had these in Uni for the video editing rigs, can't say I was a huge fan. They generally sounded OK but seemed to be super unreliable, in 2 years 6 of 8 pairs broke.

Personally I really like these for compact monitors: http://www.amazon.com/Mackie-CR4-Pair-Reference-Multimedia/dp/B00KVEIY4O/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1458340902&sr=1-1&keywords=mackie+cr4

u/ZGriswold · 1 pointr/audiophile

I am looking at powered speakers. I will be using these mainly for listening to music in my office. Source will be my PC, and hopefully, eventually a vinyl setup. I have max $150 to spend. I am looking at a powered setup for simplicity. I could probably be swayed into an amp/non powered combo, but I think it's a stretch at $150. I need something good for all genres of music, good bass, I understand a 2.0 bookshelf setup won't be like have a separate subwoofer. I have been going back and forth among about 10 pair of speakers and I just can't make a decision.

Here's the list:

Thonet and Vander Kurbis BT Bluetooth Bookshelf Speakers, Hi-Fi Wooden Bluetooth Stereo Speakers with Enhanced Bass, 300 Watt Peak Power, Integrated Amplifier and RCA Input, 1 Pair, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HG1JOVC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_DSHAzb60E38WB

Edifier R1280T Powered Bookshelf Speakers - 2.0 Active Near Field Monitors - Studio Monitor Speaker - Wooden Enclosure - 42 Watts RMS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016P9HJIA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kTHAzb4S1S3GF

PreSonus Eris E4.5 2-Way Powered Studio Monitors (Pair) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GP56OYA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YTHAzbJ09ARQC

Mackie CR4 (Pair) Creative Reference Multimedia Monitor - Set of 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KVEIY4O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_iUHAzbAVD4RB0

Edifier R1010BT - 4" Bluetooth Wireless Creative Reference Multimedia Monitors - Studio Monitor Speaker (Pair) 24 Watts RMS - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071YV97LK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_zUHAzbNHTFE9G

Plugable 4" Subwoofer Bluetooth 2-Channel Powered Bookshelf Studio Monitor Speakers - Optical & RCA Aux Inputs, 55W Output Power https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KGPEW70/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2UHAzb0R24FK0

Presonus Ceres C3.5BT 2-Way Powered Speakers with Bluetooth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N55NS4W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_uVHAzbATXGVCP


Pair Rockville APM5B 5.25" 2-Way 250W Powered USB Studio Monitor Speakers+Pads https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D3Z3FGY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_MVHAzbKMSC2QP


Please help me stop going in circles. I know some of these are more than $150...just hoping to catch a sale.

u/eitsss · 1 pointr/audioengineering

I just purchased a pair of Mackie CR4 4-Inch studio monitors and a pair of Audio-Technica ATH-M50s.

My goals in mind:

  1. Listen to music
  2. be able to play my USB midi keyboard monitors/headphone
  3. play guitar through through the monitors/headphone

    I was wondering what a good DAC setup would be for this?

    Would something like the Desktop Konnekt 6 be a good recommendation as a 2in1 setup ? Because I have no clue where to begin if I were to have to seperate the two.

    Would I just need an external DAC for the monitors and a headphone amp for the headphones? How/Would I need to connect those two together to make them run smoother?

    So this is what I'm considering:

    Desktop Konnect 6

    And these are the two pieces of equipment I am trying to find the DAC setup for.

    Mackie CR4 monitors

    Audio-Technica ATH-M50x

    Thank you so much if anyone here is able to help!

    Would like to keep the budget in the Price range of the DAC I listed above
u/SmokierSword · 1 pointr/buildapc

What's a good (mildly cheap) PC peripheral upgrade? I'm looking to upgrade something in my setup, either the mouse pad, audio setup, or monitor.

I'm thinking of selling my current monitor, as it's a decent 1080p monitor, but has absolutely no adjustment to anything, and is too small of a screen for me (21.5"). I'd probably go with this

I'm also considering upgrading my audio setup, with some better speakers and a DAC.

Maybe I'm just overthinking this. any thoughts?

u/theroundoen · 1 pointr/audiophile

Moving out of my small bedroom suite soon and will have my desktop PC in a separate room from the rest of my home theater system and am looking for some speakers for my desktop. Currently have a set of Focal Chorus 716V tower speakers and Klipsch KW100B subwoofer hooked up with a HK 3490 receiver that I've been using for my desktop PC and gaming consoles.

Was looking into a pair of self powered bookshelves and Have been eyeing a few basic pairs. Just saw the JBL LSR305 in the sticky and have been also looking at the [Mackie CR4] (http://www.amazon.com/Mackie-CR4-Creative-Reference-Multimedia/dp/B00KVEIY4O) mainly because I like the look of the speakers. Does anyone here have any experience with the Mackie ones? What other speakers below $400 CAD would be worth checking out?

u/shiris · 1 pointr/audiophile

Do you guys think the Mackie CR4 worth it?

http://www.amazon.com/Mackie-CR4-Pair-Reference-Multimedia/dp/B00KVEIY4O/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1450191619&sr=1-1&keywords=B00KVEIY4O

I'm thinking of ordering that since that's "around" the max I want to spend. I also like the small footprint as my desk doesn't have any room too.

I don't really know much about speakers and it's going to replace my really old garbage speakers. My only good IEMs is my brainwavz b2, which made me realize how bad the sound is for my old stuff. I really like the neutral sound.

Thanks in advance for any info!

u/boostnma · 1 pointr/hometheater

You can get powered speakers and run an RCA cable (red and white plugs) from the cable box to the speakers. You could also use a speaker that has a 3.5mm jack and use an RCA to 3.5mm converter.

Cheap option $13 http://www.bestbuy.com/site/insignia-portable-wireless-speaker-blue/5496203.p?skuId=5496203

Great sounding speakers $150
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KVEIY4O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_vu3vybQVXKZGZ

RCA to 3.5mm converter
3.5mm Male to 2 RCA Left & Right Audio Female Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003LVDWOQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_9D3vybWVAMH6J

u/rjdiego120 · 1 pointr/audioengineering

Noob with a unique situation. I'm in an efficiency apartment somewhere in the realm of 13'x22'. I'm looking to get my first budget monitors. I had a question in particular about them. I read earlier this week that using larger monitors can cause undesired results. Is there a max monitor size for my room? How badly will the other things in my apartment (kitchen area, bed and dresser) mess with the monitors?

I've been looking at the Presonus Eris 4.5 and the Mackie CR4 sets. Are either one of these sets ok for my situation? Something else entirely? Also taking budget interface suggestions. I'd prefer something with MIDI I/O.

Speaking of MIDI, I have a MIDI guitar that I found while spring cleaning. I was very much into rhythm games back in the day, and I bought the Rock Band 3 Stratocaster Pro Guitar. What can I do with it, recording wise?

Thanks!

u/SativaSammy · 1 pointr/audiophile

I'm looking for some studio monitors for DJing + production and cannot decide between these two:

Mackie CR4

Monoprice 5" Studio Monitors

I'm just looking for bedroom practice and I would greatly appreciate your help. Thank you.

u/AspiringQuadriplegic · 1 pointr/sonos

Sounds like you want Chromecast Audio plugged into some nice powered speakers, like these or these or these or these.
Edit: I'm not commenting on how well it'll work. I don't own a Chromecast. It just seems to work on paper for what you're asking.

u/confucius8rice · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

If you don’t want to have to deal with amps you can try:
Hivi Swan-D1010IV(B)


Mackie CR3

Mackie CR4

Edifier R1280T

Definitely an unpopular opinion, but The Bose Companion II Series III aren’t terrible if you’re really pressed for space and aren’t too picky..I received a pair as a gift and they’ve suited me fine since I don’t use speakers for much anyway.

u/j_s_p_ · 1 pointr/vinyl

You can find a new belt for your SL-BD3 here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Technics-Turntable-Belt-SL-BD1-SL-BD2-SL-BD3-READ-This-Before-Buying-Any-Belt-/280833761033. I've purchased a belt for my Technics SL-BD20D from him before, and he provides a quality product.

As for a new cartridge, since you own a P-mount (T4P) turntable, I would recommend the Audio-Technica AT92E. You get a good bang for your buck with this one: https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT92ECD-Universal-Replacement-Cartridge/dp/B00006HO3L

You will definitely need a phono preamp for your turntable. Or just an amp with the built-in phono preamp.

u/Teknofiliak · 1 pointr/audiophile

I am just starting out and I am looking to dual purpose my home theater as a listening room as well.

I have a pair of the Micca MB42X speakers and a Denon AVR-X1000.

I just picked up a Technics SL-BD22, the Behringer PP400 Pre Amp, and a new cartridge.

Are there any glaring issues with this setup. I don't expect amazing audiophile quality, but would like a solid setup.

u/chippewhattha · 1 pointr/vinyl

Seconding what nevermind said about contacting needledoctor. It's only slightly more to replace the whole cartridge with a modern option, like these, all 1/2" standard carts:

AT95E

Shure M97xE

AT92E

This will help you get it all lined up easily

And a small screwdriver set, needle-nose pliers, and you're good to go. The two screws on the top of the headshell let you remove the cartridge assembly and adjust its position when you put the new cart on.

u/Ernstero · 1 pointr/turntables

Look for a pmount cartridge something like this Audio-Technica AT92ECD Universal Replacement Magnetic Phono Cartridge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006HO3L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_SpieAb27Q8AV0. There are less expensive types as well, in the $15-$25.00 range.

u/AmadeusK482 · 1 pointr/vinyl
u/RealDiels · 1 pointr/vinyl

Hi guys, I'm relatively new to playing records. I've had a turntable setup for a year or so, but don't get to use it that much.

My question is, how do you control static pops and clicks? Even on the records I buy brand new, I still get pops and clicks and my turntable sounds nowhere near as good as playing music from my iPod to my receiver. I have:

  • Infinity Interlude Il60 speakers
  • Harmon Kardon AVR325 Receiver
  • An 80s Kenwood preamp (not the best, I know, but I don't think it should be that weak)
  • A late 80s Technics home turntable, not one of the nicer professional type ones

    I replaced the cartridge with this Audio Technica cartridge, hoping it would help out, but it didn't help much at all. I realize it's a cheap cartridge, but so is my preamp and turntable.

    I have used this record washing contraption and this anti static brush, but niether seem to keep the dust off of my records, and pops and clicks develop way too quickly.

    I love spinning some vinyl, but when the sound quality doesn't compare to digital music, it really turns me off :(

    What do you use to keep your records fresh and clean, and what can I do to control dust and static on my records so I don't ruin them?
u/dr_torque · 1 pointr/audiophile

For a P-mount cartridge, you could consider the AT92E.

As far as upgrading goes, don't your speakers have built-in subwoofers? A new turntable certainly ought to be part of the upgrade - p-mount tonearms are quite basic.

u/Elementalkey · 1 pointr/vinyl

What kind of cartridge and needle can I buy to repalce an old Pickering TL-3 cartridge and a 3 DTL stylus? I found stylus through Amazon but I was thinking of buying a whole new cartridge like this with a needle like this one looking for a something that's [$30]

u/djmikebrady · 1 pointr/vinyl

Here's a good one at $25 - there are a handful of other brands making P-Mount cartridges as well, but AT has the best selection in your price range.

u/obeetwo2 · 1 pointr/vinyl

I will definitely check into that cartridge thank you! However, I don't start my new job until october and would like to limit big spending on luxury items right now, could I potentially just get a replacement needle for now until I'm able to splurge on the actual cartridge?

If I can, how do I know the needle i need? will any 4 pronged input with the needle work? such as these

https://www.amazon.com/Shure-M92E-Moving-Magnet-Cartridge/dp/B000084T91/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1498361312&sr=1-1&keywords=shure%2BM92E%2Bcartridge&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/Technica-AT3600-Standard-Magnetic-Cartridge/dp/B000A3945Y

And this looks like a full cartridge replacement i can get for pretty cheap right now https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT92ECD-Universal-Replacement-Cartridge/dp/B00006HO3L/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464016666&sr=8-1&keywords=at92ecd

u/impulse007 · 1 pointr/vinyl

thanks! Not sure if one was necessarily "better" in terms of audio quality. In terms of p-mount cartridges, I was planning on replacing the cartridge with an audio-technica AT92E. Probably going to get the SL-L1 unless there's something wrong with it.

u/kingfrito_5005 · 1 pointr/vintageaudio

Thank you so much! I am looking at the Audio technica AT92ECD in this link: http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT92ECD-Universal-Replacement-Cartridge/dp/B00006HO3L/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1419799964&sr=8-3&keywords=phono+cartridge I dont suppose there is any way you could tell me how to install it in the head? There dont appear to be any holes to screw it in.

u/Elstir19 · 1 pointr/vinyl

Needing help with new set up for my wife’s Technics SL-BD20

17 years ago my wife and I got married and moved into a new house and my wife’s old Technics SL-BD20 turntable never got unpacked. We had small children at the time and not much room.

Now the kids are older and we still don’t have much room, but she’s always been a big fan of vinyl and as a Christmas present I’d like to get her up and running again!

I considered buying a new turntable (the LP120), but she’s always cherished her SL-BD20 turntable, so I am pretty set on keeping this turntable. If she really gets back into vinyl we can upgrade in a couple years.

And I want to keep the whole process as simple and straightforward as possible since I really have no clue what I am doing!

Today, I plugged in the turntable and everything appears to be functioning as it should.

She has a Sony LBT D108 stereo with direct phono hookup and some large-ish Sony SS-D110 speakers. I want to ditch these and figure out a smaller set up for the time being.

I’d like to keep the footprint as small as possible and as I am a woodworker I may even build her a cabinet and shelf unit to house everything.

So from my research it appears I need a pre amp and some powered speakers. And a new cartridge. And probably a new belt to have on hand.

I was wanting to spend about $50 on the pre amp. From doing a little research this seems to be a good one: ART Pro Audio DJPRE II https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AJR482/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1MCQTNZBUHMQG&coliid=I3A0D31NILP92W

Another $25 on a cartridge: Audio-Technica AT92ECD

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006HO3L/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1MCQTNZBUHMQG&coliid=I3N3SNC9BX4PUV&psc=1

And then perhaps some smallish powered bookshelf speakers for around $100 or perhaps a bit more if it makes sense. I could really use some suggestions on speakers.

I’m looking to maybe spend a couple hundred bucks total to get her back to listening to vinyl.

Sorry, I am a total noob and have zero experience with stereos etc. Will I need any other adaptors or speaker wire or anything else?

u/TommyEria · 1 pointr/vinyl

The AT92e is a really good, and cheap, p-mount cartridge. I'd go for that. Do you have a budget? I also like Grado's, but they sound better at 1.5g, and I don't think you can adjust tracking on that table easily.


https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT92ECD-Universal-Replacement-Cartridge/dp/B00006HO3L/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504999796&sr=8-1&keywords=at92e

u/bootbox · 1 pointr/vinyl

Yeah it's set for sure, although I think I can make out settings for 1.0g, 1.25g, and 1.5g for the tracking weight.

After googling your table's model number it looks like your cartridge is a P-Mount type, they are universal, nothing to worry about.

If you're getting skipping and bad overall tracking performance and you're sure it's not due to damage to the actual record surface, it's time for a new stylus/cartridge. The Audio-Techinca P-Mounts are nice, you can't go wrong really and they're cheap - http://www.amazon.com/Audio-technica-AT-92ECD-Phono-Cartridge/dp/B00006HO3L/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1343098371&sr=8-1&keywords=at92cd

u/itisrocketscience · 1 pointr/vinyl

DIY feet wouldn't be a bad idea. There are some tutorials for sound isolation feet which would also be a bit of an upgrade. This would probably be the best option. Do a quick google search.

If this http://www.vinylengine.com/library/pioneer/pl-518.shtml is your TT, you can replace the cartridge pretty easily since it would be standard 1/2" mount. The 3003 Cartridge has been discontinued but it is the same body style as the AT92ECD so the replacement styli should fit. Just get replacement for it instead of switching out the whole cartridge.

http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT92ECD-Universal-Replacement-Cartridge/dp/B00006HO3L/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1449680295&sr=1-1&keywords=at92


http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATN3472SE-Replacement-Stylus-AT92EC/dp/B000BHRMBC/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1449680347&sr=1-1&keywords=Audio-Technica+ATN-3472SE


u/billcom6 · 1 pointr/vinyl

So it is still worth replacing?
And (noob question) if I bought this that is the cartridge and stylus all in one? Just unplug the old one and plug that in?

u/sunari · 1 pointr/vinyl

Ok so he didn't have a headshell or cartridge, so it's up to me to buy them. Crap.

Do I need a specific kind of headshell and cartridge for my turntable, or can I use any MM cartridge and any headshell? I had my eyes on this cartridge, but wasn't sure if this could only be used with Technica turntables. I was looking at this headshell as well. The main selling point for me on these were their price; I'm trying to find these at cheapest prices possible (while maintaining quality of course). Could I get these, or would they not work with my record player?

u/ellamay77 · 1 pointr/vinyl

Hi all, I am wondering if I could get some cartridge suggestions for my vintage turntable.

I have a JVC QL-F4 I picked up at a thrift store. It powered on and the platter spun, so I took a chance, and it worked out great. With some minimal cleaning and minor repairs the table works really well. The table came with a trashed Grado cartridge (the needle actually fell off when I took the cartridge out of the headshell). Because I didn't know, until I finished cleaning/fixing it, how well it would work, I didn't want to do a major investment into a cartridge. I picked up an [Audio-Technica AT92ECD] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00006HO3L/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and it sounds fine - sometimes I feel the highs are a little harsh. So, if anyone has any suggestions for better cartridges for this turntable in the $50-$100 range, I'd love to hear them.

u/benexhale · 1 pointr/vinyl

I definitely won't claim to be an expert, but i recommend getting a cheap cartridge to start off with if you're new to vinyl. Something like like an Audio Technica AT 92ECD (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00006HO3L/ref=oh_o04_s00_i00_details) it's super cheap, but still a really solid starter cartridge.

u/formlesstree4 · 1 pointr/vinyl

You mean something like this? This is the first thing I bought for it and replaced the original with.

u/naomar33 · 1 pointr/audiophile

The turntable is a Gemini PT-2000 II

Cartridge/needle/stylus is a Stanton Trackmaster II

Looking to replace the entire thing, not just the tip. Would this work?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00006HO3L/ref=pd_aw_sbs_23_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=2V80VR1173992R7GV9EA&dpPl=1&dpID=81vWTpRdg%2BL

u/tempal78 · 1 pointr/vinyl

I'm hoping to find a cartridge replacement (I was told it was damaged, not sure how I'd check if that's the case or not)
I found this but not sure if it would work

u/itsamamaluigi · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

The least resource intensive would be to play it from a different device, like a phone. Then the issue is that you have your PC and your phone playing through different speakers/headphones.

Some speaker sets have dual inputs, so you could actually connect both your phone and your PC to one set and listen to everything at the same time from two separate devices. But if you don't have that, then your options are a bit more limited.

There are devices that allow you to mix multiple sources with a single output. Something like this. You get knobs to individually control the volume for each channel. But it might be a bit overkill for this since you have a perfectly good computer.

I think there's one more solution if you want to play from a separate device. You should be able to connect your phone to the line in audio, and then pass that audio through to your sound output in Windows. Instructions here. That would make your computer play all the audio coming through your phone without any special software.

If you want a music program that won't use many resources (unlike Spotify), maybe give Foobar2000 a shot.

u/ddayli · 1 pointr/diysound

You'll need a mixer to get the two inputs (laptop and xbox) to a single output (headphones). You can try something like this but really any mixer will work. https://www.amazon.com/rolls-MX51S-Mini-Mix-Mixer/dp/B0002BG2S6/ref=pd_sim_267_7?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=E08ZR6TKJGAJQNCW820C

Just realize you'll need some cables to get everything connected. In your case, if you're using the headphone out on your laptop and xbox, you'll need 1/8" stereo to rca cables. For your headphones you'll need a 1/8" female to rca.

If you really wanted to just rig something together, you could always plug in your xbox headphone output to your laptop's mic input. Then using the software mixer, playback your mic input through your headphones. Not recommended!

u/Meghanbyte · 1 pointr/vintageaudio

I'm going to use these items to feed my powered sub:

https://www.amazon.com/rolls-MX51S-Mini-Mix-Mixer/dp/B0002BG2S6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465604364&sr=8-1&keywords=4+channel+mixer+rca

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S66QNA6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

i'm not super worried about distortion from low quality components if i keep the line level low and the subwoofer gain high. noise will be negligible because the sub can't reproduce hiss anyway. i also use acoustic suspension speakers and have fairly flat bass response already, i am mostly interested in this for frequencies below 40hz.

u/son1cs1ght · 1 pointr/headphones

Pretty much what your looking for isnt going to work well. The problem is that mixing multiple audio sources causes attenuation. So essentially if you want to mix 3 signals and play them through headphones you're going to need a powered mixer, which are either very expensive or very shity. Powered mixer circuitry is expensive if you do it right.

To answer your question, yes the 1/4 inputs are stereo but im guessing that setup won't sound very good.

My suggestion is if your going to go with a Mixer get a Rolls brand one. Ideally you should get a analog (non-powered) mixer and run the output to a headphone amp (like a cheap O2). Personally I use this:

http://www.amazon.com/Rolls-MX42-Stereo-Mini-Mixer/dp/B00102ZN40/ref=sr_1_6?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1410043299&sr=1-6

and run it into my Lyr 2, and it works very well. But if you can't afford an amp then I would suggest going with something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Rolls-MX51-Mini-Channel-Mixer/dp/B0002BG2S6/ref=sr_1_5?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1410043299&sr=1-5

I've never personally heard Samsons products but I know Rolls tends to make high quality equipment for the price range.

u/Roming22 · 1 pointr/guitarpedals

Then maybe this one: https://www.amazon.com/Rolls-MX51S-Four-Channel-Stereo-Mixer/dp/B0002BG2S6 ?

I'd be interested to know what you get and what's your feedback. I have a similar need.

u/ChaosInfernal11 · 1 pointr/headphones

This is the mixer that I bought. I'm not entirely sure I would recommend it though lol. Using the PS4's audio through the controller would create a noise floor when the controller was charging, which can get annoying. Other than that, functionally speaking it's perfectly fine and I still use it when I'm playing on the PS4 and wanting to listen to my PC (Teamspeak, Discord, videos, etc)

Really, any such small audio mixer will probably do the job. Do some more research about other solutions if you can find them though. I would be curious to see if there's a better way to do it.

u/Dartmuthia · 1 pointr/audio

You'll have a tough time finding something with two separate USB inputs. Pretty much any small format mixer can do this, but you'll have to just come out of your computers headphone jack or get a standalone DAC. Something like this: Rolls MX51S Mini Mix 2 Four-Channel Stereo Line Mixer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BG2S6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xADzDbER6NR9R

u/bolts-n-bytes · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

Probably not cost effective, but you could get a single input amp and a small rca mixer like this: Rolls MX51S Mini Mix 2 Four-Channel Stereo Line Mixer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BG2S6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-SNEDbFME2ENK

I find it really handy in a variety of applications.

u/The_Kraken_ · 1 pointr/audio

No, that's almost identical to the Rolls one which is a piece of hot garbage. Cheaply made, lots of noise, felt like I was going to break it by using it.

u/rabidfurby · 1 pointr/audio

For that, you want a mixer. This is the one I have, which isn't great but gets the job done: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BG2S6

I don't use the XLR input, but I have my 2 desktops and a laptop all wired in to the 3 RCA inputs. The mixer output goes to the amp, and then to the speakers (Micca Club 3, which are the little brothers of the MB42X I linked to above). It ends up looking like this: http://imgur.com/W7JbmbW

u/Tyranisaur · 1 pointr/splatoon

You want to mix the voice chat from your phone with the audio from the game. Effectively, you need a mixer, not a splitter. That would be something like this https://www.amazon.com/rolls-MX51S-Mini-Mix-Mixer/dp/B0002BG2S6

u/MilkywayMusic · 1 pointr/audio

>So is this a multi-channel Headphone Amp something like this -

Yes. Not this exact model and not from Behringer, but functionally the same (it has both 3.5mm and 1/4" jack IIRC).

Sadly I don't know the brand or model. Edit: I'm pretty sure I found it: http://www.artproaudio.com/product/headamp-4-eight-output-stereo-headphone-amp/

>And why would you not use a Stereo Mixer for this task?
>
>https://www.amazon.com/Rolls-MX51S-Four-Channel-Stereo-Mixer/dp/B0002BG2S6/

I might be missing something here, but this takes 4 stereo inputs and mixes them to 1 stereo output. That's the opposite of what is needed here.

​

>Given the complexity of the Setup, I suspect the Set Up itself rather than the amp are causing the problem

I agree the setup is rather janky, but the headphone amp is and was working flawlessly and the amp received both channels as shown by the signal led indicator that lid up in accordance with the music coming from the pc

u/Nattmarabensin · 1 pointr/headphones

I used to have the same problem. My solution was getting one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Rolls-MX51S-Four-Channel-Stereo-Mixer/dp/B0002BG2S6/
and some cheap HDMI audio extractor (Slim PS4 so no optical out).

There might be better solutions, but that did the trick for me.

u/Beatlejwol · 1 pointr/audio

This looks to be pretty cheap and compact:

> https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-MX400-BEHRINGER-MICROMIX/dp/B000KGYAYQ/
>
> 1/4" jacks

Another option:

> https://www.amazon.com/Rolls-MX51S-Four-Channel-Stereo-Mixer/dp/B0002BG2S6/
>
> RCA jacks (a little more expensive for some reason!)

u/Ghost_Pack · 1 pointr/audio

One of these, and a few RCA to 3.5mm adapters should have you sorted.

u/nyda · 1 pointr/headphones

Right, slightly more expensive then sorry: Rolls MX51

I have the Sennheiser HD 555 and I really like them so I can directly recommend the 558. However, I haven't personally tried the Q701 but comparing their frequency response, they should both sound pretty similar. ( http://graphs.headphone.com/graphCompare.php?graphType=0&graphID[]=2861&graphID[]=2931&scale=30 )

u/hack355 · 1 pointr/headphones

Maybe this ?

rolls MX51S Mini Mix II 2 1/4 & 3 RCA Mixer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BG2S6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_B9XvzbX5K15Z1

u/maxzilla · 1 pointr/audioengineering

Option 1

Option 2

You can buy one or more of either of these and pair them with the appropriate 1/8" extension(s) (e.g., m to m or m to f depending on what cables you already have)

If you'd like to take a more proper approach to this, then here's option 3. An upside to this mixer is that it's passive (requires no power).

Option 4 is another approach that has some professional features (e.g., xlr input).

I hope this helps!

u/PeefHats · 1 pointr/Twitch

Here's what I use:

Behringer C-1

Innogear phantom power

Rolls MinimixII

I also run the minimix into a Korg Kaoss Pad Mini-KP to add effects and just play around with.

Instead of the USB, you can use the analog line-in or mic-in on your mobo, which will probably allow you to achieve a higher sample rate than USB. You'll also need to make sure that you have all the wires you need, and that they are long enough. Also, while most mixers with an XLR input will claim to carry phantom power on-board, you'll want to make sure that it provides the ample voltage for your microphone.

u/ChrisRK · 1 pointr/audio

That makes it easier. You can try the simplest solution first, use an AUX cable from the line out on the second PC into the line in on the primary and enable "Listen to this device" under Windows audio settings.

If you want to use hardware, you can get small stereo mixers in varying prices. There are passive mixers that could lower the volume on the stereo channel and active mixers that can keep the volume but also boost it.

Those are the best results I could weed out on Amazon that has stereo channels but I have no clue about the quality of those mixers as I have never used either of them. You will also need 3 pairs of 3.5mm to RCA cables, two for the computers and one for the headphone.

u/WATCH_DOGS_SUCKS · 1 pointr/HeadphoneAdvice

I'd try using a small audio mixer (something like this, for reference), so you could send multiple inputs to one output (headphones/AMP), along with the ability to tune the volumes for each individual input. You'd have to make sure your mixer model supports the features of your headphones (stereo vs surround sound, frequency range, etc.), but I imagine you could find something decent for >$100.

For connecting to the PC, I'm assuming you'd either be using a dedicated sound card with a cable from it to the mixer, or use a USB adapter cable from it to the mixer. For connecting your PS4 to the mixer, you have a few options; optical cable, GameDac, USB Audio adapter, or HDMI Audio Extractor. It's up to you.

It sounds like a bit of a janky solution, but if you're already using an external AMP and you're only looking for stereo audio, the only extra piece you'd be getting at is the mixer itself. All of the other wires/boxes involved are what it take to connect your devices to your headphones either way.

u/Makegooduseof · 1 pointr/headphones

I asked a similar question a long time ago, and was recommended a mixer.

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BG2S6/

I never got around to buying one, so I can't say whether that model is a good one or not.

u/elricsfate · 1 pointr/synthesizers

https://www.amazon.com/rolls-MX51S-Mini-Mix-Mixer/dp/B0002BG2S6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1502266868&sr=8-4&keywords=stereo+mixer

This looks like another possible option. Is there a very tiny passive mixer I can add inline to use with the headphones?

Sucks that there is no master volume :(

u/somuchflannel · 1 pointr/audio

Update: the radioshack switch didn't work at all. For whatever reason the audio coming in on its RCA video input didn't trigger it to auto-select.

What I did find, though, is an equally good solution that works for my case. Since I only plan on having a single input playing at a time, I can use a mixer to achieve the same goal. All inputs all the time, instead of playing just the one with music on.

Similar incongruous options compared to what I want, but at least options are out there. Most seem targeted at 1/4" and Mono inputs/ouputs. A lot have 1 set of stereo-capable RCA inputs, but I specifically need (at a minimum) 2 sets of stereo RCA inputs. I could also use an adapter to convert to stereo 1/4", but pretty sure all the 1/4" inputs are mono. Here are some examples that might work:

Looked good at first, but complaints that the output is too weak (it's passive apparently)
http://www.amazon.com/Rolls-MX42-Stereo-Mini-Mixer/dp/B00102ZN40

3 stereo RCA inputs & stereo RCA output:
http://www.amazon.com/rolls-MX51S-Mini-Mix-Mixer/dp/B0002BG2S6

Has 2 RCA stereo inputs, but A/C adapter is sold separately and it's radioshack brand...
http://www.amazon.com/RadioShack-Stereo-4-Channel-Microphone-Mixer/dp/B0050ZP1OU

u/Ahnteis · 1 pointr/hometheater

Something like this although I'm not currently using one so no idea how good this one is:
https://smile.amazon.com/Rolls-MX51S-Four-Channel-Stereo-Mixer/dp/B0002BG2S6/
or
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00102VV46/



u/YourFin · 1 pointr/buildapc

This is exactly what mixers are designed to do. Normally where you see mixers is those giant boards at concerts with all the slidey switches on them, and they are designed to take all the microphone inputs from the performers, redistribute their volumes relative to eachother, and then manage the output to all the venue's speakers. You essentially want a tiny version of that with only two "performers" and headphones instead of the speakers (although the the inputs and outputs need to be stereo). The box would have two (or more) inputs, a couple dials to adjust their volumes, and an output. Example: http://www.amazon.com/rolls-MX51S-Mini-Mix-Mixer/dp/B0002BG2S6/ref=sr_1_24?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1453792433&sr=1-24&keywords=audio+mixer

u/veganintendo · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

This thing lets you combine audio sources into one and I love it!: Rolls MX51S Mini Mix 2 Four-Channel Stereo Line Mixer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BG2S6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_NP2NAbASCS9VZ

u/1kir · 1 pointr/audiophile

I'm looking for a stereo mixer to combine inputs (PC + Chromecast audio for now). I prefer it to be compact.

I saw this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BG2S6/ref=psdc_11974881_t1_B00102VV46

According to the reviews it seems to be reliable. Any other recommendations?

Will I need an amplifier? The output will go to Presonus Eris 4.5 and Dayton Audio SUB-800 and they sound pretty loud right now connected to my PC.

u/ffats · 1 pointr/audio

For your situation, I would probably get something like this Stereo Line Mixer.

Rolls MX51S Mini Mix 2 Four-Channel Stereo Line Mixer
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BG2S6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_V7TPCbHAHQSP1

You may need a 1/4” (6.35mm) to XLR adapter or cable (assuming your keyboard is in mono?). If you showed me the output cable or ports for your piano, or even the model number, I could more directly address what you would need.

This will also give you independent volume controls and may be a bit more “pro” in workflow.

u/LittleHelperRobot · 1 pointr/headphones

Non-mobile: This

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

u/ainis112 · 1 pointr/audio
u/seansand · 1 pointr/amazonecho

I was also trying to figure out how to do this for the longest time, and waka324's response is correct, you need either a fader or a mixer, and there's really no other way to do it. For what it's worth, this is the mixer that I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BG2S6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This was one of the cheapest mixers that I could find, and it does the job. My only complaint is that I have to keep my stereo volume on the high side, which sometimes results in some barely-audible popping and crackling coming from my speakers. (Not sure if this is the fault of the speakers or the mixer.)

u/Chouette11 · 1 pointr/audiophile

I've done some googling and I'm still somewhat confused about amps and DACs and mixers. What I'm trying to do is combine all the inputs from my PC, PS4, and turntable into one, so I understand I need a mixer. But, my turntable needs an amp to drive my Sennheiser GAME ONEs.

So my question is, would this powered mixer be able to amplify the signal from my turntable, or do I need to buy a separate amp as well? The turntable has a built-in preamp, if that helps at all.

u/PhlippinPhresh · 1 pointr/edmproduction

I use these but there are similar cheaper options. Any piece of firm foam will work well

u/tastytoast · 1 pointr/hometheater

they dont seem to offer any product that would angle the speakers. after doing a little more research i happened upon these which is more in line of what I was thinking.

u/fuckingguy · 1 pointr/edmproduction

I know it really does mess with your bass. but I did get these auralex pads for sitting under my monitors.

link

u/Mummifiedchili · 1 pointr/hometheater

Yeah I excitedly keep waiting for that tracking number email every time I get a notification on my phone. Also I've been doing a decent bit of research and reading around. Realized my shelves might be somewhat high once the speakers are placed on them.

  • http://www.amazon.com/Auralex-Acoustics-Acoustic-Isolation-Charcoal/dp/B0002D0B4K

    Was eyeing something like this to angle the speakers down to actual ear level.

    Depending on where I put the sub, actual stands may fight for space (front right of seating position, in a corner).

    Also when considering ML bookshelf speakers is there any difference at all except the shape of the enclosure between motion 15's and lx16's?
u/DlCKFAC3 · 1 pointr/battlestations

Those are definitely some of the best value speakers I think you can get for a desktop system.

You definitely don't need to drill any holes for stands. You have a few options.

Auralex MoPads (If you buy the 4pk you'll get some extra inserts that will allow you to either angle them up to point them more towards your ear.)

Iso-Acoustics small desk stands. I'd recommend these even at their price. They work really well to decouple the speaker from your desk and the amount of adjustment you can do will work for any setup you use now and in the future. Read a few reviews and I think you'll justify the costs ...

Good luck.

u/LevitatingSUMO · 1 pointr/Perfectfit

Elevating your monitors is such an awesome thing to do. I just did it a few weeks ago. I'd recommend getting some monitor isolator pads (I have MoPads). they make a huge difference.

u/l-rs2 · 1 pointr/GearPorn

The wooden bases are very simple open IKEA boxes. I looked, but can't find them on their site any longer. They are very generic though and mostly provide additional height. The foam supports are there to minimize vibration from the monitors. They're like these ones by Auralex, only a bit wider. EDIT Not wider, I use two per speaker. ;)

u/wapusvibe · 1 pointr/edmproduction

Auralex Mopads are unreal. Here's an amazon link - http://www.amazon.ca/Auralex-Monitor-Acoustic-Isolation-Charcoal/dp/B0002D0B4K

If you have bigger monitors you should pick up the bigger version, my KRK 6s sit on em quite well.

u/Maddiablo94 · 1 pointr/hometheater

I got this for Xmas, I can’t say there is a huge improvement but I do like it, have my center on both of them angled about 4 deg upwards. Supposed to reduce vibration too which it is on a cheap ikea table. There is also an addition wedge to increase the incline to 8 deg.... (also options for 0 -4 and -8deg declines)

Auralex Acoustics Studio Monitor Isolation Pads (MOPAD

u/rps13drifter · 1 pointr/audioengineering

No, those are for the bottom the the stands. Reducing contact with the floor will reduce vibration transfer. Honestly look at some of these as well. The idea is to reduce vibration coupling. Both will help.

u/warriorbob · 1 pointr/edmproduction

Not an expert and can't handle all of these but I can have a stab a it...

> What do I do about windows volume?

I haven't used much audio stuff under Win 7 (never 8) but I think there's a way to set the relative levels of different applications relative to the system sound, isn't there? I think it's the "Mixer" link under the volume thing in the system tray?

> I have pretty sensitive ears and after an hour or so of producing, my ears feel really weird.

This sounds kind of like ear fatigue. Is there a particular frequency that stands out? Are there other sounds besides just your speakers?

> I really don't have the volume that loud.

You can get an SPL meter from Radio Shack for about $25. I'd recommend it, as "that loud" seems to be awfully relative. I generally hear to aim for 85 dbSPL, I think C-weighted (that's what I use at home)

> The speakers vibrate a fair bit and make the table vibrate lightly too.

Any chance this has something to do with your fatigue?

Speakers will transmit low frequencies into whatever they're standing on. Generally this isn't super-desirable (although it can sound cool) because it's not going to be as precise as the monitors themselves. There exist little foam risers designed to alleviate this problem.

> How far away should I be from them? / How far apart should they be?

For accuracy, you want (roughly) an equilateral triangle between your head and the speakers, and you want them at ear height if possible. This isn't always possible in small setups (and the acoustic space is often unpredictable/bad enough that these small advantages are eliminated anyway, for example, that reflective glass window right in front of you) but you can experiment. The ideal result is the best accuracy and clarity of sound, not necessarily the most pleasing sound.

Take a look at various pictures of studios and you can get an idea where people tend to put them. Read the comments too, as monitor placement is something a lot of people will comment on when it's suboptimal so hopefully between the two you'll get an idea where they "should" be.

> When I put my ear right up to the woofer, I can hear a light hiss/hum. Normal?

Not necessarily. For some speakers, yes, and in some setups some hiss is unavoidable due to line noise. Read reviews, maybe contact the manufacturer. I don't know anything about the hum - does it do that when no audio cable is plugged in?

Enjoy your new setup!

u/LA-shroomer · 1 pointr/audiophile

How you diggin' those 305s? Get 'em up and on some mopads though.

u/Zelvetical · 1 pointr/DJSetups

Gotta raise the monitors bruh. A pair of similarly sized books under each speaker are the usual go to in a pinch, or you can look into something commercially available like http://www.amazon.com/Auralex-Monitor-Acoustic-Isolation-Charcoal/dp/B0002D0B4K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1414943829&sr=8-2&keywords=speaker+riser

u/Datastream · 1 pointr/trees

Where the hell are your speaker isolation mats? Shit will resonate terribly as it is...

http://www.amazon.com/Auralex-Monitor-Acoustic-Isolation-Charcoal/dp/B0002D0B4K

u/gen10 · 1 pointr/battlestations

I currently have the JBL 308's sitting on a pair of Auralex MOPADS Are isoacoustic that much better? I was thinking of getting some corner bass traps potentially.

Apart from that the speakers are mostly aimed as a triangle formation tweeters towards ears and both being about the same distance apart from my head. I also have them further away from the wall so the ports have room to breath and aren't knocking air directly back into the port from against the wall.

u/ledgergc · 1 pointr/audiophile

It's a step in the right direction, but foam such as http://www.amazon.com/Auralex-Monitor-Acoustic-Isolation-Charcoal/dp/B0002D0B4K would be a better option to get or emulate.

u/shadaloo · 1 pointr/battlestations

Speakers are M-Audio BX5a (except these are the 2nd gen) and the stands are Auralex MOPADs

As far as the computer case being a dust magnet, it only attracts dust in the front of the case where the filters for my fans are located. However, there is high airflow within the case which helps with cooling and performance.

u/rchecka · 1 pointr/vinyl

Low budget trick: Cut 2 Racquet Balls in half to create four "feet" for each speaker. Place each half wide side down under each speaker.

Higher Budget: I use these

u/warinthestars · 1 pointr/audio

Acoustic panels are good for "treating" a room, reducing echo & deadening. However, bass is omnidirectional & can't really be "soundproofed." You can try getting isolation pads ) https://www.amazon.com/Auralex-Acoustics-MOPAD-Acoustic-Isolation/dp/B0002D0B4K ) butt that's not going to do what you want.

u/conrthomas · 1 pointr/audiophile

Pull your table back (like way back), and point the monitors at you. Otherwise you're playing just music to people behind you and listening to the bass bounce off the wall in front of you.. You could get some mo-pads and use them to point the monitors up at your ears instead of getting super tall (and unstable, and expensive) stands. That is what I've always done for my home DJ-booth. https://www.amazon.com/Auralex-Acoustics-MOPAD-Acoustic-Isolation/dp/B0002D0B4K/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=mo+pads&qid=1555002325&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spell

u/Skitch_n_Sketch · 1 pointr/audiophile

How tall do you need them?

If they're going on a desk, Iso Acoustics are a popular option if you can swing the $160 price tag.

Cheaper desk option would just be some angled foam. There's some even cheaper options, I just linked the first one I saw.

For anything floor standing, you've got a ton of options. Can't give you any specific recommendations without a budget, but Sanus has some decent stuff for cheap. Look out for the top plate measurements and weight rating.

Your speakers are 10" wide and 12" deep, so expect some overhang. My speakers are somewhat similar in size and a few pounds heavier, and I use two stands with top plates of 8"x9" and 6.5"x8". I'd shoot for something in that ballpark.

u/jelly_battleship · 1 pointr/battlestations

The speakers are Energy RC-10. They've been discontinued for several years now, unfortunately. The foam wedges they are on are Auralex MoPads: http://www.amazon.com/Auralex-MOPAD-Isolation-Charcoal-speakers/dp/B0002D0B4K

There are cheaper alternatives that I've never used and can't comment on, like these: http://www.thefoamfactory.com/acousticfoam/accessories.html

And then there are some much more expensive options out there as well, that I've also never used. I bought the mopads years ago when I had a thinner and crappier desk that would vibrate/rattle at higher volumes. It also helps that they angle the speakers up a little bit.

u/psxpetey · 1 pointr/letsplay

https://www.amazon.ca/Shure-SM7B-Dynamic-Microphone-Cardioid/dp/B0002E4Z8M/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1469576428&sr=1-1&keywords=sm7b+shure this one is a bit expensive but it is an industry standard. You could probably record a nuclear explosion on it. Road podcaster dynnamic could work well also cheaper I believe too

u/StatmanThunderfist · 1 pointr/podcasting

I use this mic. It's crazy cheap and actually sounds amazing, and comes with the scissor arm, pop filter, and shock mount. You might be tempted to avoid it because it's a no-name brand on Amazon, but I can assure you the sound is on par with any other condenser mic you can find. If you want to listen to what I sound like let me know and I'll DM you a link to my latest episode (to avoid the whole self-promotion type stuff).

It should also be noted that I purchased an XLR cable and I have it connected to this interface.

I have seen people blow hundreds of dollars on expensive equipment, only to record about 5 episodes, fizzle out, and never use them again.

As far as the bass in his voice goes, the Aokeo AK-70 (linked above) tends to be a brighter-sounding mic. You can also play with the EQ in your DAW to tune his voice to your liking, which you can really do with any mic. I've heard a podcast that was recorded with a $400 Shure SM7B Dynamic Mic that sounds like hot garbage because of the way they apply EQ and compression (or lack thereof).

u/TheSwagonborn · 1 pointr/audio
u/BelusOfficial · 1 pointr/OnePiece

Since I saw other people wanting to do voice acting and you yourself might be unsure about what gear to buy, here is advice from a musician:

Try to practice with what you have, when you start to feel more secured about your skill, try to buy a better microphone, do NOT buy a condenser microphone, those are too sensitive if you are starting out, buy a dynamic microphone instead!

Recommended microphones, both made by the brand 'Shure':

SM58

SM7B (If you really can afford it)


To be able to use a microphone that is from an XLR cable to maintain quality you need an audio interface, there is a market solution that brings you to a prosumer level very cheaply and it is called a 'focusrite scarlett solo' it is one of the cheapest but also most durable and stable interfaces in the industry that is worth having! You can hook your electric guitar too if you want to.


The interfaces:


Focusrite scarlett Solo

Focusrite scarlett 2i4 (If you really can afford it, options like the Pad button make it amazing for general use outside of recording)


Now you need a DAW if you want to upgrade from audacity, a DAW (Digital audio workstation) is your workfield, it is what provides you what you want in terms of FX or samples (if it delivers them)


Good cheap DAWs:

Reaper by Cockos

Ableton live 10 intro (more expensive but you get more fx to it, it is less userfriendly for beginners from my experience though)


VSTs are what you will be using in your arsenal for FX and voice processing, you got tons of free VSTs that work like a charm and you got tons of paid ones that obviously work better but you can get them for cheap at plugin boutique! or sign in for emails of the sellers! PM me to request the list for free VSTs, if the demand is high, I'll make a list for it here and edit the post!

The plugin boutique website

u/MercenaryOfOZ · 1 pointr/audiophile

I just bought a Shure SM7b and attached it to my RODE PSA1 and im getting a lot of bassy desk noises and sounds that whenever I lean on or hit against my desk even lightly it will carry through to my mic and it's really iterating. I thought the purpose of a boom arm was to reduce this. Will drilling the holder that it came with through my desk and using it that way opposed to the desk clamp make a difference? I'm having a tough time solving this issue.

Edit: If it also helps at all I am using a BEHRINGER XENYX QX1002USB
and Cathedral Pipes Ribbon/Dynamic Mic Buffer Amp

u/sendblink23 · 1 pointr/Twitch

Definitely that Shure SM7B is the best one for the $400 range, but it does require an extra hardware for the proper gain volume but its the best sounding for sure.

You can also go cheap which works really good as well: Audio-Technica ATR2100

It has both XLR and USB connection as in you can connect it with a mixer or go directly with USB to the PC.
Here is a combo for $90 with arm stand clamp, pop filter and the mic(it includes both xlr and usb cables, and a mini tripod mic stand)

u/DogmaticVox · 1 pointr/audioengineering

Depends on your budget. If you're just looking at doing voice work, there's not going to be a ton of difference between the Blue Yeti and the Audio-Technica. If you want a mic that sounds great and has become a standard - go with the Shure SM7B.
You would also want an audio interface to go with it like the PreSonus AudioBox.

u/NickFFS · 1 pointr/audioengineering

Twitch Steaming audio help!

​

I was wondering what people would recommend for a semi-professional audio setup. I don't really have a budget other than under around $800-$900. By no means am I and "audiophile" but I do know the basics and then some. All I want is crisp sounding microphone, a mixer with a good DAC and compressor, and a good pair of headphones. Here is the hardware I am currently looking at, any advice will help a lot! Also the mixer I found is kinda ugly IMO, is there any mixer with good functionality that isn't as ugly? Thanks :D

Microphone: https://www.amazon.com/Shure-SM7B-Dynamic-Microphone-Cardioid/dp/B0002E4Z8M/ref=sr_1_3?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1542937982&sr=1-3&keywords=Shure+Dynamic+Microphone%2C+XLR+%28SM7B%29

Mixer: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JRGHEZ2/ref=psdc_11974871_t1_B00IBIVL42

Headphones: https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-HD-650-Professional-Headphone/dp/B00018MSNI/ref=sr_1_4?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1542938032&sr=1-4&keywords=sennheiser+headphone

Again thank you for the help!

u/Megatf · 1 pointr/Twitch

For a single PC with a Dynamic microphone I'd use a Cloudlifter (to power the Shure SM7B), an XLR microphone interface (Focusrite is highly recommended around here), and Voicemeter banana for controlling all your audio sources.

Voicemeter banna is a software mixer that will give you the functionality of a hardware mixer you just won't have the physical controls on your desk, but with it you'll be able to adjust the EQ, Compression and more to get you the same crisp sound.

https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Interface-Bundle-Polishing/dp/B07CVNRCFB/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=xlr+interface&qid=1557191384&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Cloud-Microphones-CL-1-Cloudlifter-1-channel/dp/B004MQSV04/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=cloudlifter&qid=1557191682&s=gateway&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/Shure-SM7B-Dynamic-Microphone-Cardioid/dp/B0002E4Z8M/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=shure+sm7b&qid=1557191710&s=gateway&sr=8-2

u/100T_Wade · 1 pointr/100thieves
u/SensualSternum · 1 pointr/singing

Easiest thing to do would be to get a cheap USB mic if you're not willing to invest in a proper microphone and USB interface.

The Blue Yeti and Blue Snowball are both fine USB mics, although be forewarned that they are not "studio quality."

If you are willing to get a proper microphone, I'd suggest getting either a Shure SM58 or SM7B, and a cheap but reliable interface would be a Focusrite Scarlett 2i2.

Next, you will want to get either Audacity or a DAW to record and monitor your vocals with. If you have a Mac, I would suggest starting out with GarageBand if you're really strapped for cash, or purchasing Logic Pro X if you can drop a few hundred dollars. Alternatively, you can go all-out and get Pro Tools if you want to be industry standard. I believe Pro Tools is also compatible with Windows.

For monitoring, I would suggest getting some studio monitor headphones, like the Sony MDR 7506, which will provide a pretty accurate sound for you. Alternatively, you can use any old headphones.

You won't want to be hearing yourself on studio monitors, because you will experience feedback. When you are recording vocals, monitor them on headphones.

Hope this helps.

P.S.: After a year of singing, you should be more than ready for an open-mic night, or even a full band.

u/amiriacentani · 1 pointr/ffxiv

It depends on what you want aim for in terms of quality. If you want a cheap but sufficient interface (what you plug instruments and mics into) then go for a line 6 ux1 or ux2.

http://www.amazon.com/Line-6-POD-Studio-UX1/dp/B001EKECAY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449798017&sr=8-1&keywords=line6+ux1

http://www.amazon.com/Line-6-POD-Studio-UX2/dp/B001EKECC2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1449798017&sr=8-2&keywords=line6+ux1

For a microphone, there's a bit more searching involved. I don't have experience with a huge variety of mics but the 2 that I know work really well are the Shure sm7b and the MXL 4000.

http://www.amazon.com/Shure-SM7B-Dynamic-Microphone-Cardioid/dp/B0002E4Z8M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449798231&sr=8-1&keywords=shure+sm7b

http://www.amazon.com/MXL-4000-Multi-Pattern-Condenser-Microphone/dp/B001REGEF8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449798319&sr=8-1&keywords=mxl+4000

The Shure SM57 is also pretty good but is usually used on instruments more so than vocals but that doesn't mean it can't get the job done well

http://www.amazon.com/Shure-SM57-LC-Cardioid-Dynamic-Microphone/dp/B0000AQRST/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449798383&sr=8-1&keywords=sm57.

If you want to hear the interface and the Shure sm7b in action, check out some of the stuff I've recorded before. Used to be into recording my old band a lot. I assure you it doesn't sound like it was recorded in a tin can: https://soundcloud.com/herpyderpypuddingpie/worldacousticmaster (and yes, i already know you love my soundcloud channel name) (oh and ignore the horrible acoustic guitar tone. this was before I figured out that recording them DI wasn't all that great of a solution)

u/MountainManGuy · 1 pointr/ultrawidemasterrace

On the left

Yamaha RX-V377
On top of the Yamaha is a Behringer UMC202HD
The mic is a Shure SM7B

On the right side of the desk is my HP docking station for my work laptop. I work from home a lot so it's nice to have a dock.

In the middle there is an Infinity center channel

I've got 4 of these, front left and right and rear left and right

Using a spdif connection from my motherboard to the receiver.

The subs are two of these.

Keyboard is this

As of tomorrow, mouse will be this

And this huge ass mouse mat

u/gsutoker · 1 pointr/AskReddit

Alright just to make sure...

If I get this: http://shop.avid.com/store/product.do?product=324568068056304

And this: http://www.amazon.com/Shure-SM7B-Dynamic-Vocal-Microphone/dp/B0002E4Z8M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1292432473&sr=8-1

I would be ready to record?
Nothing else needed?

not including (mic stand, headphones, and speakers)

u/zdelusion · 1 pointr/audioengineering

Dynamics mics can be good with that kinda stuff because they don't pick up a lot of the other noise that's going on. The flip side is they're quiet, if you use a mic like the 58 you may find yourself wanting a hotter signal, you can remedy that with something like the Cloudlifter which is used frequently in conjecture with the Shure SM7B (probably the most popular mic for voiceover stuff).

If you're going for a top tier professional setup the Cloudlifter+SM7B is probably where you'll end up anyway so it might be worth it to just go there now. The AT2035 you linked is another Condenser mic and will be pretty much as sensitive as your Yeti, that's kinda their mo.

u/SenorFajitas · 1 pointr/letsplay

The Podcaster is a decent mic. The XLR version, Røde Procaster is better and, along with the EV RE20, and the Shure SM7b, are genereally considered some of the best broadcast mics on the market, so any of those should be a safe bet if you want that round, warm, radio host sound.

The Focusrite 2i2 is a decent interface for the price, it will however need a preamp, as it alone lacks the gain to run these mics. You can save money by buying an inline preamp, like the Triton Fethead or the CL-1 Cloudlifter. They will up your gain something like 20db, giving you more than enough.

This will all be expensive though, so maybe space the purchases out over a few months and just keep using the Podcaster in the meantime?

u/MATTANDO12 · 1 pointr/battlestations

Shure SM7B Cardioid Dynamic Microphone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002E4Z8M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZbKWCbSDR0C11

NEEWER Adjustable Microphone Suspension Boom Scissor Arm Stand, Max Load 1 KG Compact Mic Stand Made of Durable Steel for Radio Broadcasting Studio, Voice-Over Sound Studio, Stages, and TV Stations https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DY1F2CS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JcKWCbB0RKZHF

Bose Companion 20 Multimedia Speaker System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0053T4PHC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ldKWCb2AYAV8X

u/skippy647 · 1 pointr/microphones

Right Now I am stuck between two.

The Shure Beta 87A
or
The Shure SM7B

I've done a little research but I can't really tell a big difference between the two.

u/XiCynx · 1 pointr/microphones

Hey all,

I'm getting ready to go big on a microphone setup, but I want to get a few extra opinions on the hardware that I have selected to make sure it is both sufficient for each other as well as the best price to performance. I'm really looking for some GREAT quality but not needing something for full on production.

-----

Here is a list of the items and below is a screenshot of the cart if people don't want to click on the individual links.

Audient iD14

Shure SM7B

CL-1 Cloudlifter

RODE PSA1

LyxPro Balanced XLR Cable 6 ft

LyxPro Balanced XLR Cable 1.5 ft

-----

https://i.imgur.com/T08p76s.png

u/9string_vodka · 1 pointr/microphones

Great broadcasting mic is the Shure SM7b; will run you approx. $450-500 (Canadian) (expensive but soooo worth it for broadcasting).
Great room conversion kit is the Primeacoustic London 12 room kit; will run you $200-300. If your using a larger room to broadcast then Primeacoustic makes larger kits for more money.

I took a radio/broadcasting trade in high school and now I'm on my way to be a sound engineer in a recording studio (not radio) so i feel confident enough to say despite the extra cost; they will definitely be worth it in achieving the best sound, good luck!

http://www.primacoustic.com/london.htm

http://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B0002E4Z8M/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1449720218&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=SM7b&dpPl=1&dpID=41rWaLTs%2BdL&ref=plSrch

u/distortednet · 1 pointr/Twitch

did a bit of research, this stand according to the Q&A section for it is compatible with the blue yeti. its the same stand I use for my AT2020 and works great. It's very basic (ie: no 360 degree movement) but still has alot of options for movement/placement. been pretty happy with it, and I am not sure you can get any cheaper to be honest :D

u/TheRealJake9041 · 1 pointr/Twitch

I've noticed that just having a cheap microphone stand for your mic does wonders for background noise.

u/Mr_Paquette · 1 pointr/letsplay

i don't use a shock mount at the moment but This! is the mic stand that i use, its simple and light weight and its really really cheap. I am going to upgrade to a better stand and also invest in a shock mount when i get my own place and have more room to expand my setup.

Edit: i should say that this is the second stand that i have had to order, but the first one lasted me a little over a year and it was the same model.

u/frozenfoxy · 1 pointr/letsplay

I agree with /u/bluesmcgroove that the Blue Radius is a good one, but you can certainly go with non-Blue stands as well. I personally use this stand as it works well for me -> http://www.amazon.com/Stage-Stands-MS7701-Tripod-Microphone/dp/B000978D58/

Pretty inexpensive and you can clip whatever filter you use to it easily. Of course, this is if you have a spot to set it next to you to swivel the arm in front of you. There were some other people who recommended one that clamps onto your desk in the past, but I can't say I have experience with those ones.

u/JapanCode · 1 pointr/letsplay

Wait how does it only work with their branded mounts? My friend told me that this stand works with it because, well, he uses it. Or am I misunderstanding what you mean?

And I'm not trying to say the yeti is better or anything, just trying to understand that part. That samson mic is very good too!

u/Redditor965 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace
u/Hantoki · 1 pointr/letsplay

This is the boom arm I use with my Audio-Technica at2020.

http://www.amazon.com/Stage-Stands-MS7701B-Tripod-Microphone/dp/B000978D58/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top?ie=UTF8

I skimmed through the reviews for you and landed on this review that says it works with his Blue Snowball.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/review/RVMCFBIRFG7ZF/ref=cm_cr_pr_rvw_ttl?ASIN=B000978D58

EDIT:
I also wanted to note that while the arm itself is sturdy, the thing is a tripod. So if you have it extended too far and the arm is between 2 legs, the stand will want to tip over. I just put some weights on the legs and it's perfect.

u/JunkFriend2 · 1 pointr/microphones

Im currently using the Podcaster, so this is a pretty bias'd opinion.

If your desk have space for it, a boom arm like the RØDE PSA1 (UK Amazon Link: https://www.amazon.co.uk/RØDE-Swivel-Mount-Studio-Microphone/dp/B001D7UYBO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474200451&sr=8-1&keywords=psa1) compliments the Podcaster really well.

If not, then a simple tripod mount (American Amazon Link: https://www.amazon.com/Stage-Stands-MS7701B-Tripod-Microphone/dp/B000978D58) would prob. also do the trick.

TL;DR A boom arm is really great for the PODCASTER, because, since it is a dynamic mic, you need it to be about a fists length away from your mouth, (at least from my experience.) and a boom arm gives you a lot of flexibility in terms of positioning the mic.

Oh yeah, use this part of the offical RØDE website to check where you can buy their microphones, and microphone stands(If you didn't know already): http://www.rode.com/wheretobuy