Best musical instruments according to redditors
We found 28,630 Reddit comments discussing the best musical instruments. We ranked the 9,230 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
1. NEEWER Adjustable Microphone Suspension Boom Scissor Arm Stand, Max Load 1 KG Compact Mic Stand Made of Durable Steel for Radio Broadcasting Studio, Voice-Over Sound Studio, Stages, and TV Stations
PLEASE NOTE: Max. Microphone Clip Diameter is 1.26″/32mm and Max. load is approx 1 kilogram; Microphone and Filter Shield NOT Included; The Stand is NOT Suitable for Blue Yeti USB MicrophoneThe adjustable Black Scissor Arm Stand is made of high quality steel frame, plastic Mic Clip (INCLUDED), stu...
2. Behringer U-Control UCA202 Ultra-Low Latency 2 In/2 Out USB Audio Interface with Digital Output
Ultra-flexible audio interface connects your instruments, mixer, etc. with your computer for recording and playback
3. Audio-Technica ATH-M40x Professional Studio Monitor Headphone, Black, With Cutting Edge Engineering, 90 Degree Swiveling Earcups, Pro-grade Earpads/Headband, Detachable Cables Included
Cutting edge engineering and robust construction40 millimeter drivers with rare earth magnets and copper clad aluminum wire voice coilsCircumaural design contours around the ears for excellent sound isolation in loud environments90 degree swiveling earcups for easy, one ear monitoringProfessional-gr...
4. Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 (1st GENERATION) USB Recording Audio Interface
CHECK OUT THE NEW 2ND GENERATION MODEL BELOWExcellent digital performanceRugged metal unibody caseFocusrite Scarlett 2i2 USB audio interface, truly portable interfaceIncludes an authorization code for Ableton Live Lite, Scarlett Plug-in Suite (RTAS/AU/VST), Red 2 & Red 3 Plug-in Suite (AAX/AU/VST), ...
5. Focusrite Scarlett Solo (2nd Gen) USB Audio Interface with Pro Tools | First
One natural-sounding Scarlett mic preamp with plenty of even gain; one instrument input, Stereo line outputs on RCA phono for connecting to home speakers; one headphones output with gain control. You don't need a power supply, either - just connect with a USB cable and start recording.Class-leading ...
6. Audio-Technica ATR2100-USB Cardioid Dynamic USB/XLR Microphone
Handheld dynamic microphone with USB digital output and XLR analog outputUSB output connects to your computer for digital recording, while the XLR output connects with your sound system conventional microphone input for use in live performanceSmooth, extended frequency response ideally suited for po...
7. Blue Snowball USB Microphone (Textured White)
Plug and play design — no software requiredProfessional studio quality performance — record both vocals and instrumentsMac and PC compatibleBlue’s renowned circuit and unique two-capsule designSwitchable mic patterns for a variety of recording applications
8. BEHRINGER Audio Interface, 1x XLR/TRS 1x 1/4" 2X RCA USB, Black, 1-Channel (UM2)
2x2 USB audio interface for recording microphones and instrumentsAudiophile 48 kHz resolution for professional audio quality.Maximum Sampling Rate: 48 kHzCompatible with popular recording software including Avid Pro Tools*, Ableton Live*, Steinberg Cubase*, etc.Streams 2 inputs / 2 outputs with ultr...
9. Behringer Xenyx 502 Premium 5-Input 2-Bus Mixer with XENYX Mic Preamp and British EQ
Premium ultra-low noise, high headroom analog mixerState-of-the-art, phantom powered XENYX Mic Preamp comparable to stand-alone boutique preampsNeo-classic "British" 2-band EQ for warm and musical soundMain mix, stereo CD/tape plus separate headphone outputsCD/tape inputs assignable to headphone out...
10. Blue Snowball iCE USB Mic for Recording and Streaming on PC and Mac, Cardioid Condenser Capsule, Adjustable Stand, Plug and Play – Black
Custom condenser capsule offers crystal clear audio for Skype, Messages and FaceTimeRecord vocals, create podcasts, and add narration to your home moviesAdd crystal clear audio to recordings for YouTube. Frequency Response: 40 –18 kHzEasy plug and play directly to your Mac or PC-no drivers to inst...
11. JBL Professional LSR305 First-Generation 5" 2-Way Powered Studio Monitor (LSR305)
The original first generation of the legendary JBL Professional 3 series Studio MonitorsThe impressive performance of the 3 Series Reference Monitors is the result of JBL's development of its flagship M2 Master Reference MonitorIncreased HF Detail: You'll experience greater depth and ambience in rec...
12. Zoom ZH1 H1 Handy Portable Digital Recorder (Black)
Stereo X/Y mic configuration captures perfect stereo imagesSame frequency and SPL handling as popular Zoom H2Records Broadcast WAV (BWF) at 96kHz/48kHz/44.1kHz at 16-bit or 24-bitRecords MP3 from 48 to 320kbps for maximum recording timeHi-Speed USB 2.0 port
13. Behringer U-Control UCA222 Ultra-Low Latency 2 In/2 Out USB Audio Interface with Digital Output
Ultra-flexible audio interface connects your instruments, mixer, etc. with your computer for recording and playbackCompact music production software included with feature-rich audio/MIDI sequencer that loads almost instantaneously on all computer platformsMassive software bundle includes Audacity au...
14. Behringer Xenyx 302USB Premium 5-Input Mixer with Mic Preamp and USB/Audio Interface,Black
Ultra-compact and ultra-low noise analog mixer with USB/Audio interfacePowered through USB or external power adaptor (included)Built-in stereo USB/Audio interface to connect directly to your computerState-of-the-art, phantom powered XENYX Mic Preamp comparable to stand-alone boutique preampsNeo-clas...
15. Behringer Micromix MX400 Ultra Low-Noise 4-Channel Line Mixer,Black
Ultra-compact 4-channel line mixerHighest sonic quality even at maximum output levelInput Level control for each channelPower adapter includedBehringer Micromix MX400 Ultra Low-Noise 4-Channel Mono Line Mixer; 3-Year Warranty Program*
16. Mackie Studio Monitor, Black w/green trim, 3-inch (CR3)
Studio-quality design, sound and performance ideal for multimedia creation and entertainmentProfessional-grade components for optimized sonic performance.1/8 inches to stereo RCA cable to connect computer output to speakersUltra-wide frequency range perfect for full-range multimedia (80 Hz - 20 kHz)...
17. Audio-Technica AT2020USB+ Cardioid Condenser USB Microphone, Black, With Built-In Headphone Jack & Volume Control
Condenser microphone with USB output for digital recordingHigh quality A/D converter with 16 bit, 44.1/48 kilohertz sampling rate for superb audioHeadphone jack with volume control allows you to monitor the microphone signal with no delayMix control allows you to blend your microphone signal and pre...
18. Behringer Xenyx 802 Premium 8-Input 2-Bus Mixer with Xenyx Mic Preamps and British EQs
Premium ultra-low noise, high headroom analog mixer2 state-of-the-art XENYX Mic Preamps comparable to stand-alone boutique preampsNeo-classic "British" 3-band EQs for warm and musical sound1 post fader FX send per channel for external FX devices1 stereo aux return for FX applications or as separate ...
19. Neewer NW-700 Professional Studio Broadcasting Recording Condenser Microphone & NW-35 Adjustable Recording Microphone Suspension Scissor Arm Stand with Shock Mount and Mounting Clamp Kit
The Set Includes: (1) Condenser Microphone, (1)Adjustable Suspension Scissor Arm Stand, (1)Table Mounting Clamp, (1)Metal Shock Mount, (1)Pop Filter, (1)Ball-type Anti-wind Foam Cap, (1)3.5mm Male to XLR Female Cable. NOTE: Sound Card, 48V Phantom Power, 1/4" to XLR Cable & XLR to XLR Cable are need...
20. BEHRINGER audio interface (UMC22)
2x2 USB audio interface for recording microphones and instrumentsAudiophile 48 kHz resolution for professional audio quality. Drivers-mac, no driver required or coreaudio supported. Windows available as download from behringerCompatible with popular recording software including Avid Pro Tools*, Able...
I have always wanted to have a "smart" radio. My parents have always owned various Pioneer, Kenwood, and Sony radio decks, but they always had their cons to them (clunky OS, different type of touch screens that suck, lack of features, very expensive $800-$2000), useless features, etc.). I wanted something that runs Android 6.0+. I thought about using iPads, but I didn't want to waste a bunch of money for something that is going to be used in my car only. I wanted a budget friendly "smart" radio. That is when I found the perfect tablet, the Nexus 7 2013. Cheap, powerful, Android 6, compact, somewhat thin and small, and best part, it fits in a double-din radio deck.
After finding various projects that people have used, I decided to order a bunch of stuff from Amazon (everything was bought with Prime) and see if I could get this to work. It took about 3 weeks to work out all the bugs, but it runs perfect now. I never found anyone that did this mod in a Nissan Pathfinder, so that was difficult going on my own, reading various wiring diagrams and getting power, sound and steering wheel controls to work. After lots of testing each wire, and lots of trial and errors, everything is working how I want it too.
Questions that people have asked me that I can remember on the top of my head:
Q: How do you turn the tablet on and off if the power button is blocked?
A: Easy, with Timur's Kernel, and the USB car charger hooked up to the accessory power, when I turn my key on/start my car, the tablet detects power from the USB, which wakes the screen/powers on. (ELI5: there are 2 power sources in your radio, a constant 12 volt power, and an accessory key power. So when you turn the key to ACC or ON, it gives power to the tablet, but when you turn the key off, it takes away power from the USB port.)
Q: How does it hold up in the wonderful California heat?
A: Shockingly very well. It hasn't given me any issues in ~95F (+35C) degree weather. There was a day where it was 115F (46C) degrees outside, and that is when the tablet finally said NOPE and started locking up and freezing due to the ridiculous heat. After running my AC for a few minutes, it cooled the tablet down to reasonable temperature and ran normally again. When my car is parked, I have a windshield sun shade that helps a ton with keeping the sun off my black/gray dash, and/or microfiber towels over the screen to keep the sun off. If it's super hot, I just take the tablet/radio/air conditioner part out of my car and bring it inside (not that hard to remove).
Q: How do you control the volume?
A: With the JoyCon EXC, it translates either CAN, IBUS, resistive, or digital steering wheel control signals, to USB keyboard signals that the tablet can see. I have the Joycon setup to have Volume UP/DOWN, Screen ON/OFF, PAUSE/PLAY, and PREVIOUS/NEXT. Click here for more information.
Q: How do you listen to the radio/music?
A: Spotify Premium. While I can spend ~$10 on a radio antenna to USB to listen to over-the-air radio stations, I never listen to the radio. When I had my old stock radio, I never listened to the radio part. I always used my 3.5mm jack to plug in my phone for Spotify. Great perk about being a broke college student is getting 50% off Spotify Premium.
Q: Can you/do you watch TV or movies on it while you drive?
A: I can, but I don't. Pay attention to the freakin' road.
Q: How do you get internet on it since it's a WiFi version?
A: I use my Bluetooth hotspot on my phone to get internet for Waze, Google Maps, etc. I can also use the WiFi hotspot, but that uses more power. I can drive from California to Idaho running Waze the whole way and it uses about ~300MB of data.
Q: Can you make phone calls with it?
A: This has been something I have been trying, but have not had success with yet. I use an app called [TabletTalk] (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.apdroid.tabtalk&amp;hl=en), but it doesn't push the microphone/sound through the tablet. I gave up on this since I have a Samsung Gear 2 Neo smartwatch that has a microphone/speaker on it. Some day I will explore with this more.
Q: How do you power your speakers if you removed the radio?
A: I lucked out big time with this issue because my Nissan Pathfinder has the Bose System built in. That means that there's an amplifier already installed that powers the speakers. So the tablet sends the sound to the Behringer UCA202 DAC, that then converts to a 3.5mm headphone jack that then splits into the Left Front/Rear, Right Front/Rear, and dual subwoofer channels that go to the car wiring harness that then goes to the amp. This saves me hundreds of dollars. For vehicles without a stock amplifier that rely on the radio for power, that is when you will need to buy an amplifier to power the speakers. My 12 inch subwoofer also plugs into the DAC and works perfectly.
Q: I see the reverse camera, how did you get that to work with the tablet? How does the tablet know when you are in reverse?
A: There were 2 ways to get this to work, one way is by video detection, or the other way is by the JoyCon EXC. I chose to do the video detection way because it was simpler and waiting about one second for the app to open was fine with me. I use an app called EasyCap viewer.
Q: Why is there paper over the JoyCon, EasyCap, USB charger etc.?
A: The plastic pieces over the EasyCap and USB charger were bulky/broken. The JoyCon didn't come with a cover. Paper was the easiest/closest thing I had at the moment. If only I had a 3D printer. Someday..
Q: Why is the mic in the vent and not somewhere else? Doesn't the wind from the HVAC cause problems?
A: It was a last-second add-on and just put it in there without having to rewire the harness. I also didn't know where to move it that made it look "stock". I've gotten some great opinions on where to move it! Thanks for those!
I'll add more common questions here when I think of them.
Breakdown of Parts:
Price | Part
$100 | Nexus 7 2013 32GB WiFi (flo) (bought from /r/hardwareswap)
$5 | Nissan Radio Wiring Harness
$6 | AmazonBasics 4-Port USB 2.0 Hub
$20 | Esky EC135-05 Rearview Camera
$95 | JoyCon EXC
$7 | Tendak OTG USB cable
$30 | Behringer UCA202
$7 | VideoSecu Amplified CCTV Microphone
$25 | Timur's Kernel v4.0 for Nexus 7 2013
$10 | Maxboost Car Charger
Free/Other/Already owned | EasyCap USB Video Capture Card, RCA cables, 3.5mm audio cables, USB cables, 12-16 AWG wire, grinder, zipties, paper, hotglue, other random stuff.
TOTAL COST | ~$305
TL;DR: Modified my Android tablet to work as a replacement for my radio. Worth it? YES. Best Radio Ever.
Have Questions? Ask away. Since I had to learn most this crap on my own, I can share my experience with others and give pointers in the right direction.
EDIT #1: Formatting.
EDIT #2: RIP my inbox. I would never have guessed this would get this popular. I'm just speechless. Wow. Thanks everyone! Trying my best to reply to everyone! Also added another question to this.
If it makes you feel better, you can get better-sounding headphones than Bose for less money. The Audio-Technica ATH-M40X should blow anything Bose below $300 out of the water for just under $100, and if your budget is closer to $50 you can often find Sennheiser HD558s for around $50-60. The more you know!
and you will be considered the best Girlfriend ever.......there are a million choices out there on the market today, but, in my experiance there are a very few full on pre-made Gaming headsets that are truly super good, sure some sound ok but very few have the sound quality of a decent studio monitor headphone, and for me, that's important. Good luck, and, you're awesome for soliciting info like this, well done!!
whoops, missed the wireless part, sorry!!!!
logtiech artemis is a nice headset, I loved mine till I moved to the set up I have above, decent sound, lots of extras, good range, good mike:
and, if he already has some logitech gear, it works in conjunction with the software he already has.
If you're looking at something to wear all day, and I mean all day then these are it, so incredibly comfy.
EDIT1: YMMV some below have said they have found others comfier so do some research and maybe buy a few, compare, and keep your favorite pair. Others suggested the AKG K7XX, the HD598, and the SHP9500.
EDIT2: Wire is removeable although long, 10ft/3m I believe, other sizes can be purchased although not universal since it's 2.5mm to 3.5mm. just search 558 or 598 cable
EDIT3: I don't own a mic other than the one built into my webcam. I have read up on the modmic which you can attach the headphones and something stand alone would be a blue [snowball] (https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Snowball-iCE-Condenser-Microphone/dp/B014PYGTUQ/ref=lp_2586045011_1_1?srs=2586045011&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503600799&amp;sr=8-1) or a yeti. There's a 4th option but you will have to mod the headphones sorta using the v-moda boompro, you'll have to google that. Good luck!
EDIT4: These are open headphones, unlike the Audio-Technica ATH-M50x's so that means sound does leak, and they're not isolating unless very loud. Check out reviews there are plenty of comparisons and youtube videos out there.
This mic was probably my favorite purchase. Friends comment that the voice quality is stunning. I would recommend getting the Neewer mount for about 15 dollars if you're on a budget, this mic does pick up a lot of vibrations with the table stand it comes with. Also, purchase a metal 5/8 to 3/8 mic adapter if you do order the Neewer mount, the plastic one that comes with the Neewer mount is a piece of shit whose threads strip like nobody's business.
Edit: provided links
Link to Neewer Scissor Mount $12.50
Link to 5/8 adapter $4.95
Link to Rode PSA1 Mount if you have money to spend $98.79
EDIT 2: u/Mebbwebb stated the Neewer mount might not come with the tightening knob for the Mic. In that case you would have to use a wrench to tighten the mount where the Mic attaches to the arm. The Neewer mount I have has a tightening knob. He has linked an offer that includes a tightening knob plus the mount he linked is cheaper and comes with a free Google Cardboard promotion.
LINK TO THE MOUNT WITH GOOGLE CARDBOARD OFFER
I'm putting this here because I don't want to flood the main sub with what I'm able to find. So here goes:
[ATH-M50x Headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/Audio-Technica-ATH-M50x-Professional-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR86/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499757226&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=headphones) |$150 in cart. $250-$300 everywhere else I check
[Sennhieser HD 598 SR Headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/Sennheiser-HD-598-SR-Open-Back/dp/B06WRMZZ45/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499757356&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=hd+598) |$109 Record low
[Audio-Technica ATH-M40x Headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/Audio-Technica-ATH-M40x-Professional-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR54/ref=sr_1_6?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499758834&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=bose) |$180 - $38 = $141
[August EP650-Bluetooth headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/August-EP650-Bluetooth-Wireless-Headphones-Leather/dp/B00F54Y6GU/ref=sr_1_2?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499759484&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=headphones)| Was $99, now $58
[August EP640 Bluetooth Headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/August-EP640-Rechargeable-built-Smartphones/dp/B00MHOFR78/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499772544) |was $80, now $37
[Prime Day Bluedio T2S Headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/Bluedio-Shooting-Bluetooth-headphones-wireless/dp/B00Q2VIW9M/ref=sr_1_4?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499759635&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=bluetooth) | Was $20, $21 in cart no tax
Prime Day Bluedio V Headphones | was $200, $140 in cart no tax
[AUSDOM ANC 7 Bluetooth noise cancelling] (https://www.amazon.ca/Cancelling-Headphones-AUSDOM-Bluetooth-Comfortable/dp/B01LZ7Q5R1/ref=sr_1_4?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499808109&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=aptx) | was $100, now $50. Well reviewed!
[Sony Extra bass bluetooth headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/Sony-MDRXB950B1-Extra-Headphone-Model/dp/B01N5UVZBP) | was $200, now $99
[Aukey Arcs Bluetooth Sport] (https://www.amazon.ca/AUKEY-Bluetooth-Headphones-Microphone-Sweatproof/dp/B01EWUP4NQ/ref=sr_1_4?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499804815&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=headphones)| was $24, now $14
[1MORE Triple Driver earbuds] (https://www.amazon.ca/1MORE-Headphones-Earphones-Compatible-Microphone/dp/B01KB9K9Z0/ref=lp_17037466011_1_4?srs=17037466011&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499766067&amp;sr=8-4&amp;th=1) | Was $131, $106 in cart
Bluetooth misc| Price
[Anker Premium Stereo Bluetooth 4.0 Speaker ] (https://www.amazon.ca/Anker-Bluetooth-Subwoofers-Portable-Wireless/dp/B0107WH8Q4/ref=sr_1_6?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499800448&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=subwoofer) | was $130, now $60
[Trond bluetooth receiver] (https://www.amazon.ca/TROND-Bluetooth-Receiver-Headphones-Speakers/dp/B01M9I0LSK/) | Was $25, now $20. I have one its awesome
[Altman Bluetooth Transmitter/receiver] (https://www.amazon.ca/ALTMAN-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Receiver-Wireless/dp/B06Y25PGBG/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499803431&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=aptx) |was $43, now $26
CPU Coolers| Price
[CORSAIR Hydro Series H100i v2 Extreme ] (https://www.amazon.ca/CORSAIR-Extreme-Performance-Liquid-CW-9060025-WW/dp/B019EXSSBG/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499757440&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=corsair) |$110. Historic [all time low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/CrDzK8/corsair-cpu-cooler-cw9060025ww)
[Corsair Hydro Series H115i Extreme Performance] (https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-Extreme-Performance-Liquid-CW-9060027-WW/dp/B019955RNQ/ref=sr_1_3?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499756838&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=corsair) |$155 (temporarily out of stock)
[MasterLiquid Pro 240 All-In-One] (https://www.amazon.ca/MasterLiquid-Technology-Chamber-MasterFan-Radiator/dp/B01E5XNP5Y/ref=lp_16927652011_1_24?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499766384&amp;sr=1-24) | was $140, now $95 [Historic low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/sqmxFT/cooler-master-cpu-cooler-mlyd24ma20mbr1)
[Corsair CS650M] (https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-Modular-Efficient-Supply-CS650M/dp/B00GH9NA2I/ref=sr_1_11?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499757999&amp;sr=1-11&amp;keywords=corsair) |$110. Not the lowest but okay
[EVGA SuperNOVA 550 G3] (https://www.amazon.ca/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Warranty-220-G3-0550-Y1/dp/B01LWTS2UL/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499759891&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=evga)| Was $130, now $99 [historic low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/sMM323/evga-supernova-g3-550w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-220-g3-0550)
[Corsair 780T full atx case] (https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-Graphite-780T-Full-Tower/dp/B00LA6POK4) | $189 in cart. Not an [all time low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/sNJwrH/corsair-case-cc9011063ww) but not bad
[Corsair Carbide 400C white] (https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-CC-9011095-WW-Carbide-Compact-Mid-Tower/dp/B01F97W9ZM/ref=sr_1_12?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499813131&amp;sr=1-12&amp;keywords=corsair) |$105 in cart
[Seagate Backup Plus Hub 8TB] (https://www.amazon.ca/Seagate-External-Desktop-Storage-STEL8000100/dp/B01HD6ZLQ6/ref=sr_1_3?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499758359&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=hdd) | $270 - 51 = $219
[Seagate 4TB BarraCuda Pro ] (https://www.amazon.ca/Seagate-BarraCuda-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST4000DM006/dp/B01MSW4MNS/ref=sr_1_4?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499758359&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=hdd)|$245-75 = $170 [Historic low!] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/qRtWGX/seagate-barracuda-pro-4tb-35-7200rpm-internal-hard-drive-st4000dm006)
[Seagate Backup Plus 4TB Portable] (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0196J43TE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&amp;psc=1) | Was $160, now $135 [all time low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/NyQRsY/seagate-backup-plus-4tb-external-hard-drive-stdr4000100)
[Seagate Firecuda 2TB] (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01M1NHCZT/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1)| was $126, now $85 [Historic low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/zk7CmG/seagate-firecuda-2tb-25-5400rpm-internal-hard-drive-st2000lx001)
[Seagate Firecuda 1TB] (https://www.amazon.ca/Seagate-Firecuda-2-5-Inch-Internal-ST1000LX015/dp/B01LWRTRZU/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499767750&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=ssd) | was $83, now $60 [Historic low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/w6x9TW/seagate-firecuda-1tb-25-5400rpm-hybrid-internal-hard-drive-st1000lx015)
Input Devices| Price
[Logitech G13 input pad] (https://www.amazon.ca/Logitech-G13-Programmable-Gameboard-Display/dp/B001NEK2GE/ref=sr_1_21?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499761901&amp;sr=1-21&amp;keywords=board+games) | Was $75, now $55 [Historic Low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/jbvZxr/logitech-keyboard-920000946)
[Corsair Gaming K70 LUX RGB MX Brown] (https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-Gaming-Mechanical-Keyboard-Backlit/dp/B01ER4B7YM/ref=sr_1_6?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499770080&amp;) | was $180, now $160 [Historic low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/34M323/corsair-k70-lux-rgb-wired-gaming-keyboard-ch-9101012-na)
[NETGEAR Nighthawk X8 AC5300 Router] (https://www.amazon.ca/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-Tri-Band-Quad-Stream-R8500-100CNS/dp/B01A85Y9TE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499760240&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=NETGEAR+Nighthawk+X8+AC5300)| was $499, now $290
[TP-Link AC3200 Tri band router] (https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-Tri-Band-Beamforming-Archer-C3200/dp/B00YY3XSSA/ref=sr_1_3?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499760450&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=modem) | Was $249, now $175
[Netgear 16-Port Gigabit Switch] (https://www.amazon.ca/Netgear-16-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Desktop/dp/B01AX8XHRQ/ref=sr_1_6?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499760948&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=ethernet) | Was $106, now $75 in cart
[Logitech C922x Webcam] (https://www.amazon.ca/Logitech-Stream-Webcam-Streaming-960-001176/dp/B01LXCDPPK/ref=sr_1_5?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499760799&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=computer) | was $130, now $89. All time low
[Acer KG251Q 1080p Freesync monitor] (https://www.amazon.ca/Acer-KG251Q-bmiix-FREESYNC-Technology/dp/B06X6HJ1SF/ref=sr_1_6?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499762804&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=monitor) | Was $230, now $170
[M9S PRO android tv box] (https://www.amazon.ca/Leelbox-M9S-Pro-Android-6-0/dp/B01MD0NZPK/ref=sr_1_2?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499767387) | Was $130, $98 in cart
[Cyberpower 600w UPS] (https://www.amazon.ca/CyberPower-CP1000PFCLCD-Sinewave-Compatible-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N192/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499803529&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=ups) | was $224, now $125
I'll try to keep tabs on everything but let me know if there are any errors or price updates. And as a side note, I'm actually getting downvotes for this? I can't see how there could possibly be a sane explanation for that.
EDIT: Updated 7:00pm EST!! Let me know if there's anything you see and I'll put it in here!
EDIT: I've put everything new as of Jan 11, 4:00pm in bold. Also, check this post on RedFlagDeals for a great big list of deal
EDIT: Its all over everyhone. Hope you snagged something cool beyond bitter disappointment this year!**
Looks like a Blue Snowball with a pop filter. $40-60 mic.
I don't have a picture, but I use my Superlux HD668B, a Blue Snowball, Corsair K65 RGB LUX [MX Red], Logitech G Pro, and a Pecham Extended mousepad to cover up my swiss cheese desk.
I definitely suggest the HD668B if you want a new pair of headphones for cheap, best pair of headphones I've ever had. Removable cable, top tier sound, and you can change the earpads if you want to.
Edit: I can provide low quality pictures of my messy ass desk if you want. Here's an album, and yes, those are my three coolers + a box.
Just a small suggestion for /u/RegularCars and /u/RegularRoman:
If these ask Mr. Regular videos are going to be a regular thing, get a small cheap mixer and a second mic (or lapel mics)
The noise from passing the mic back and forth was a bit distracting
^^^^Also ^^^^answer ^^^^my ^^^^question ^^^^next ^^^^time ^^^^:)
A good headphone stand:
A cool glass/metal stand thing to put under your tower or monitor:
A big long mouse+keyboard pad that like a rug, ties your whole desk together:
A cool scissor arm to hold & move your microphone:
For things that are more significant than accessories: Get some active studio monitor speakers, a nice dac/pre-amp/mixer, a mechanical or electrostatic-capacitive keyboard, a REALLY nice office chair, and stuff like that. A good battlestation is about a lot more than a big monitor, cool case, and some good processing power.
It's a blue snowball ICE, only about 50 dollars
regular one is only a bit more
And yeah been saving since last july :D
Fear not, for you can still enjoy the wonders of surround sound with Hi-Fi headphones. Most "gaming" headsets use a built-in DAC (and BS marketing magic) to emulate surround sound over stereo. You can do the same thing using Razer Surround or similar software for free.
You'll have to decide between a closed or open earcup design. If you're not already familiar: a closed-back design will give you better noise isolation and more bass response, while an open-back design will give you a wider soundstage and better positional accuracy. 95% of headphones are closed-back, but there are some nice open-back options in your price range.
The Audio-Technica ATH-M40x ($100) are a decent option. They're durable, portable, closed-back headphones with a lot of bass response.
The Sennheiser HD 558 ($115) are a steal at that price. They're incredibly comfortable, open-back headphones with a very wide soundstage and warm signature. They'll do much better with surround software.
Both of those options have a relatively low impedance, so you shouldn't have to worry about amping (although they'll still benefit from it). If you're looking for a mic, the ModMic 4.0 is on MassDrop right now. It's a bit pricy, but I've heard great things about the sound quality. If you want something a bit cheaper, the Zalman Clip-On is always an easy option.
This might be slightly skewed, because a brick sitting on my head would be more comfortable than the headband on my Q701s.
I teach music production as a side job and from what I have learned, the hardest (in terms of most confusing, not time consuming) yet most important part of getting into music production, is to fully understand the DAW itself.
So don't give up, there are tons of others who have been in your situation.
Personally, I usually approach two things: signal flow and user interface. You'll want to fully understand what gets send where and how to find that place in your software.
You'll want to have a basic understanding of what MIDI data is and what the difference between MIDI, an analog audio signal and a digital audio signal is.
Oversimplifying a little bit MIDI is a data protocol that sends information - usually information like notes being played, at what velocity etc. or controller data (MIDI CC). This data is not to be confused with an audio signal. The Akai keyboard for example uses the MIDI protocol to communicate with Reaper.
Now since MIDI does not contain any audio, but you want to make music, there is something needed to make an audio signal out of the MIDI data you can play on the Akai keyboard. For this, you can use any soft- or hardware synth, sampler etc. These programs/hardware will use the incomming MIDI data to trigger oscillators or play a sample - usually at a certain pitch, depending on the MIDI note's data.
It looks like you already figured some of this out, but didn't quite understand how it worked. Now, the software synthesizers work exactly how you imagined: They are loaded into Reaper as Plugins (usually in VST-format, but can be JS, AU, or other). For this to work, you'll have to tell Reaper where to find them. So I suggest you install them into a common folder and tell Reaper where to find that. (Options->Preferences->Plugins->VST->Add folder via "Open", than "Rescan".)
The octapad can output both, MIDI and audio. Now it really depends on what you want to get from it. Do you want to sounds from the octapad? Or do you just want to use it as a controller to trigger some sampler plugin in Reaper? Depending on that, you'll either need a MIDI to USB interface or a audio to USB interface. There are also interfaces that do both, audio and MIDI. And also interfaces with more fancy features like
Your computer probably even has an audio interface built in without you ever having thought about that. It'll probably not have many features, will not support phantom power, will have not gain adjustment for incoming signals etc, but it could work with your octapad if it has a line-in.
I'm happy to help, but your questions are very vague. Just try to tinker. Experiment, create basic rhythms, work with audio and with MIDI, explore ever feature of Reaper, bit after bit, and you'll soon feel much more comfortable. Getting comfortable is the most important step, since you'll want Reaper to be your laboratory, your tools, an empty canvas. At that point, you'll be able to truly focus on the music. So take your time :)
Bose QuietComfort 25 - $99 (Lightning Deal)
Surface Headphones - $189
AKG Q701 - $159
Audio-Technica ATH-M20x - $34.50 (Today Only) Audio-Technica ATH-M30x - $51.75 (Today Only) Audio-Technica ATHM40x - $74.25 (Today Only) Audio-Technica ATH-M50xBB Limited Edition - $99 (Today Only) Audio-Technica ATH-M50xBT - $129 (Today Only)
Fostex TX1 - $35
AKG K511 - $39 (Today Only) Sennheiser HD599SE (US) - $99 Sennheiser HD4.50SE (US) - $99
Sennheiser Momentum Free Special Edition - $149
HIDIZS Portable Headphone Amplifier USB Type C DAC - $33
Schiit Modi Multibit - $233
Brainwavz Headphone Desk Hanger - $9
So you don't have to go through a YT video
I have had a lot of luck with these: Blu Snowball Mic
We use them at my work for small conference rooms.
Wall of text ahead. Please, read only if you are really interested...
What I usually recommend when someone ask for advice about gaming headsets is: Gaming headset are crap 99% of the time. They provide very poor sound quality, and any good headphone (literally, even 40$ ones) will sound far better than expensive 300$ headsets. The question is not if headphones are better than headset (the answer is “Hell, YEAH”). The question is, are they better for you?
What are you planning to use your headphones for? Just for gaming, or for gaming and music listening?
If the answer is “just for gaming”, then ask yourself if a Hifi headphone is what you need. Usually games don’t really need high quality headphones, since they provide low quality sound, and you will be more concentrated gaming than listening. In that scenario, everything will serve you, and gaming headsets have the advantage of the integrated microphone.
So, if you want something good for gaming, and just for gaming, with integrated microphone, then the only two headsets with good enough quality sound (aka don’t suck) are:
HyperX Cloud (70$)
Sennheiser G4me One (170$)
Both are good choices. Or go with any fancy RGB headset you find (Logitech, Razer, Corsair, Steelseries, etc), you will most probably don’t notice the difference while gaming.
BUT, if you plan to use them for music listening besides gaming, then keep reading.
Hifi headphones for gaming have the disadvantage of having to deal with the micro thing. None of them have microphone incorporated, and you must either use a desk microphone like this, use a modmic like this one. or if your budget is tight, something like this. The first one requires desk space. The second and third one are detachable micro, with an extra cable you’ll have to deal with. Any of them are a nuisance. Any solution is annoying. All of them are an extra expense that must be accounted. If micro is a must and you are not willing to bother with this solutions, please, go back to HyperX Cloud or G4me One.
Ok, so, you really want some damn good headphones, that also can be used for gaming! Keep reading, please (are you bored yet?).
You can choose Closed back headphones (the classic ones you have already used. Closed back models offer good isolation and do not leak sound. This is your choice when there are people around you, or you want isolation from noisy a environment.) or Open Back headphones (Open back models offer next to no isolation and will leak sound -and allow you to hear what happens around you-, but they are the best sounding models). Open headphones achieve the best sound, soundstage (feeling that sound is coming from around you) and imaging (ability to locate the origin of one sound).
If you are here because you want to get a replacement for a gaming headset, I would recommend you Open back, but since they don’t isolate, you must choose. If isolation is required, get closed back, if that’s not a concern, go open.
Some closed back cans:
Audio-Technica ATH-M40x. 100$. Balanced headphones, very good feedback from lots of people. Typical entry level headphones to the rabbit hole.
Sennheiser HD 598Cs. 125$. Balanced, very very detailed, great instrumental separation. Comfortable as hell, Very recommended.
Beyerdynamic DT770. 160$. V-shaped signature (lots of bass and lots of treble). Great for explosions, movies, and rock. Treble can be harsh if you are sensible. Get the 32 ohm version, as the 80 (may) and 250 (do) need an amplifier to work properly.
Those are some examples of entry-mid level of closed cans. There are lots more, depending of your budget!
As for open cans:
Superlux HD668b. 40$. Those are THE CANS. The best quality for low budget you can get. Hands down. Great soundstage, Bass light. They are not too comfortable, but pads can be changed for a deluxe comfort (extra expense). You are not getting anything better at this price. For gaming in a budget, this are the headphones you were looking for,
Philips SHP9500. 80$. Mid-forward signature. Good soundstage, great comfort. Very detailed. Another amazing quality for the budget headphone.
Sennheiser HD 598 SR. 170$. Very similar to the HD 598Cs, but with open back. Wider soundstage, a little less bass. Very balanced headphones. Super-duper comfortable. Great for long gaming sessions.
Philips Fidelio X2. 250$. V-shaped signature. Those are in another league. Build quality is just.. OMG. Extreme soundstage and imaging. More comfortable than the HD 598. Bass is BOOOOOM!!!. A little pricey, and can be somewhat fatiguing to listen if you are treble sensible, due to high treble.
Well, that’s all. I have selected only headphones that don’t need an amplifier. Now is your turn to research, watch some Youtube videos, read some reviews, and give them a try.
All this headphones are GOOD. No trash here, and all them will make you open your eyes when listening your music if you are coming from standard headsets. You will notice sounds, instruments, that you never realized they were there, even if you had listened this song a thousand times before. Try them, and be amazed.
Welcome to the rabbit hole.
Even if you make a fair amount of mistakes, most people will still come up and tell you it was great/tight, so it's quite an unreliable reference unless it comes from another good drummer you can trust to be frank. Frame of mind definitely messes with me too - sometimes you can't quite catch the groove and sometimes you don't realise that you already have. I'd recommend getting something like this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003QKBVYK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1396174652&amp;sr=8-1 and recording gigs occasionally. If you feel like one song was a bit off, listen back to it the next day.
$30 DAC - Link - Please know these aren't game changers, it's only offering better quality sound than your motherboard. If your headphones or speakers aren't that great, it's not doing to do much. Weakest link type of thing. If your headphones suck, these wont help. But if you have a decent set of phones, many people have sworn by these.
$75 DAC - Link - More expensive, better sound output. Again, should be paired with even higher quality sound gear. $100+ speakers/headphones.
$115 DAC - My Dac - Link - I needed a dac with a little power. I use speakers with my setup instead of headphones. This one is 2x25. It's honestly the most anyone should need for a 2.0 system.
$80 Speakers - Link - These are mine. I love them. Best combined $200 I've spent. Instead of a CPU that will need to be replaced in two years, these will out last many builds if I take care of them. The reviews are through the roof compared to the price. And I'd have to agree.
There are a million reviews about the topping DAC + Micca speakers. Things feel more immersive. I think that's the simplest way to put it.
SSD de 240gb a 999
Unos audífonos m40x de Audio-Technica a $1,700
Monitor full HD de 22" a 1,900
I agree with the other comments here, don't worry about spending more to get more. If you haven't heard decent headphones (designed for the sound quality not the looks or marketing) then something cheaper will still be impressive.
Here are some recommendations to get you started:
Open back is a headphone that allows sound to leak out and lets noise around you in. Closed back isolates you from surrounding noises and prevents noise from leaking out. If you will only be using these at home I would recommend open back. They generally sound better for the price.
Personally, I think the MXL V67G is a good mic choice for beginners. It has a warm tone that's pretty forgiving for a lot of voice types, it takes EQ decently, and it's only ~$65. It has a good bass response, which many cheaper mics lack, and the upper frequencies are fairly smooth.
For the interface, pretty much any full interface will work. I normally recommend the Behringer UM2 for the price (~$40), but as long as you avoid stuff like the Neewer phantom power supply (which isn't an actual interface) you'll be fine. If you have extra money, something like the Audient iD4 (or iD14 if you need two inputs/think you will in the future) or Apogee Duet are good choices. They both have a good amount of clean gain (no hiss from the preamps) and they don't color the sound much, if any.
You will also need a mic stand, XLR cable, pop filter, and headphones. To get all that, it's going to cost about the same as a Blue Yeti (minus the headphones, but you'd need to buy those for the Yeti as well) and will sound far better.
If you have the money though, look around and test mics out before you buy. Every mic is going to sound slightly different, and just because one mic is popular or fits one person well doesn't mean it's the best choice for you. There are plenty of mics under $1000 (even under $500) that are phenomenal, you just need to find the one that suits your voice the best. As for mid-price mics that you may be interested in, there is the Lewitt LTC 440 Pure, Aston Origin, Rode NT1, CAD e100s, and Audio-Technica AT4040. This is just a list to get you started looking, and by no means covers all the good mics, so look around for what you think will suit you. Test out what you can, because you don't want to spend that much money without being sure it will sound right for you.
More important than mic selection though, is acoustic treatment. Even the best, most expensive mics are going to sound terrible in an untreated space. You can buy panels or foam squares, but if you're tight on money you can improvise this pretty easily. There are tons of youtube tutorials, so I won't spend too much time on it, but some good materials are blankets (moving blankets, quilts, comforters, basically anything really thick with lots of dead space), cushions, and pillows. If you have a fully stocked walk-in closet, that's even better.
I'm a bit of an audiophile and anyone looking for probably the best solutions for cheap:
KZ ZST https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N0782B3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vri5Cb0QCWCKX
Open back headphones
~$60, $70 right now
Closed back headphones
Audio Technica ATH-M40x https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HVLUR54/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nui5CbDJBP9S7
Personally my favorite is the KZ ZST at just how freakn cheap they are.
the sm58 is a directional mic, and you need audio cables+audio interface for it (like a focusrite scarlett solo https://www.amazon.ca/Focusrite-Scarlett-Solo-Audio-Interface-Tools/dp/B01E6T56CM or a behringer um2 https://www.amazon.ca/Behringer-UM2-Audio-Interface-Preamplifier/dp/B00FFIGYOI/ref=sr_1_18?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1541103504&sr=1-18)
the yeti can do 4 different modes, it's got a built-in preamp and it's powered straight off of the USB cable.
different setups for different purposes. i got a yeti but i want a sm57+audio interface to mic up a guitar amp setup
People here are recommending the Blue Yeti, but it is a terrible recommendation for people who can't control background noise. The Blue Yeti is a Condenser style microphone, which tend to be more prone to picking up background noise compared to Dynamic microphones. I tried making the Yeti work for me for about 4 years before switching to a dynamic mic and the difference was night and day.
I recommend looking up Dynamic Microphones to see if you can find one that works in your budget. I personally use the ATR 2100, which has a good balance of being fairly cheap and decent quality.
As /u/WallpaperOwl recommended, you can get a good deal of information about most microphones out there by checking out the Podcastage Youtube Channel. I highly recommend it as the host tests each microphone fairly thoroughly.
Again, I'd recommend avoiding a condenser mic like the Blue Yeti, unless you are able to invest heavily in reducing background noise. It does have decent sound quality, it's just hard to get that without also picking up the sounds of the rest of your house.
Good luck on your search for the perfect microphone!
Guest or Regular: Guest
User Name/Other Names: samissimas
Age Group: 18-19
Reasons for Wanting to Join: To show how patrician my taste in chinese cartoons is, (Read: Discussion)
Past Discussion/Analysis/Review: I've written a series of reviews that can be read through here
I have school, so scheduling would have to be planned more than a few days ahead, and I might be generally unavailable for the times you'll suggest, but I think I have something to contribute, so I'll put my name as back burner here.
This is my mic in case anyone is worried about audio quality
Edit: I know /u/bobduh doesn't really hang out here as much, but maybe he's interested? Has anyone reached out to him?
So this is a long ramble/guide of sorts largely because the topic is quite relevant to me as of late. I've developed RSI (repetitive stress injury) in my wrists and hands as a result of using a PC far too much with little care for ergonomics. Occupational hazard of not only being a gamer but also being a web/graphic designer.
This isn't anything particularly new, it's been well-discussed (on reddit even) so even cursory Google searches will return more information but I don't think it's ever a bad thing to repeat.
Chairs and desks are some of the most important purchases you can buy as a gamer and the benefits generally go hand in hand. A great chair but a shit desk can ultimately still give you problems later down the line, and vice versa. Having both can prevent back, eye, and wrist problems, of which I experience basically all 3 on a daily basis.
You can find ergonomic keyboards and mice but I've never used any personally. If you only play with a controller well, get fucked, basically. Take routine breaks, you should be anyway.
A good chair should have/be: height adjustable (pretty standard nowadays), have back support that curves with your lower back, with a seat not so hard that it breaks all the bones in your ass.
Arm rests are optional but are a nice resting point for when you're not typing. Ideally that should line up with your desk.
Kneeling chairs are a fantastic ergonomic alternative. Honestly, I would absolutely love a kneeling chair as I found them extremely comfortable for long periods of time. Unfortunately, they're expensive as shit where I live.
In my experience, the main difference between a cheap chair and an expensive one (assuming they both meet the above criteria) is build quality. Comfort is rather subjective but a seat shouldn't feel too hard or too soft, breathable material like mesh may also help if your ass sweats a lot. Hey man, I don't judge.
If brand is important and you have money to burn buy a Herman Miller. Either way, your ass thanks you.
As mentioned, desks and chairs generally go together. If one sucks you may still experience problems.
An ideal desk should be large enough that your monitors are at least 20 inches (50 cm) from your face to prevent extended eye fatigue, low enough that both feet touch the ground and high enough that the angle between your forearm and upper arm is 90 degrees. If you're like me and find yourself too short for basically every desk imaginable you can either buy a foot rest to compensate or, if you've got money to burn, adjustable height desks are an amazing thing.
Headphones and Mic:
Avoid headsets, they're more likely to be cheap trash. The convenience of having access to both audio and a mic generally means a decrease in quality for both.
Buy a decent pair of headphones from a quality brand (Sennheiser, Sony, and Audio Technica all make good products) and a separate mic to go with it. Things like the Blue Yeti are popular but you can find some good Audio Technica mics for cheap, too.
Tek Syndicate has an old guide but still rather relevant.
Keyboards and Mice:
Generally speaking, I'm not a huge fan of crap marketed towards gamers because it often ends up having really crap build quality. Most of the brands are just hit and miss. Some people have no problems with them and others find their products break at the slightest touch.
The most common brands are Logitech, Razer, and SteelSeries.
Logitech used to be my go-to, but I feel they've had a severe drop in build quality over the past decade or so. I still like their products, but I don't consider them the Nokia of gaming accessories anymore, which is a real shame.
Razer and SteelSeries are, in my experience, very hit and miss for people. I see people love one and hate the other for whatever reason. For me, that comes down to preferring SteelSeries for their higher build quality. Razer products come off as more eye-candy to me and just feel really cheap and nasty, which I don't find acceptable given the price where I live (New Zealand, where they either the retailers fuck you or the shipping costs do).
Other companies like Corsair and Mad Catz exist but my experience is limited. I like Corsair for general PC components but when I tried one of their mice the mouse-wheel kept breaking and I got it replaced 3 times before I said fuck it and asked for a refund. Mad Catz, on the other hand, is way too expensive for me to try.
If you like mobile gaming you can pick up decent 20,000 mAh power banks for less than $50 off Amazon which would give your Switch, for example, an extra 4 and a half charges from 0 to full.
Avoid buying cheap, unbranded power banks off eBay. Most of the time the ratings are just fake as shit, other times they can be dangerous.
On closing, I personally don't think there's a ton of super duper rare unknown accessories that an average gamer typically needs. Other than the general ergonomics of a good desk and chair, having a nice headset and mic are about all I recommend.
They're using Omnidirectional Microphones. It's OK to use one of those, but at least the DM should be using a Cardioid pattern, such as this VERY popular microphone.
The problem is that each person will need one of these to work properly. You'll either need a mixer (a cheap Behringer would suffice) or a USB interface. Then you'll need to mix the audio post-recording. Personally, I'm a fan of the Focusrite 18i8 interface. Relatively cheap ($300 is cheap for audio stuff!) and the quality is pretty outstanding.
If you need to save some cash, then the "tin can" audio can be mitigated by hanging carpets or blankets to dampen ambient sound.
These work great for my yeti:
Shock mount: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073Z9NF3Y/
Arm: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DY1F2CS/ (will not fit the yeti without the shock mount)
Crappy pic of it all
Something like this makes a lot more sense, went with a white / black build.
You're not going to need an optical drive to install windows, it can be done very easily via usb.
Same goas for the sound card, you don't need one since the on board sound bard will work fine. If you're looking for better audio, invest in something like a Scarlett Solo.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU | Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor | $229.99 @ Newegg
CPU Cooler | CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler | $34.88 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | MSI Z170A KRAIT GAMING 3X ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $118.48 @ B&H
Memory | Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory | $91.99 @ Jet
Storage | PNY CS1311 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $64.99 @ Jet
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $69.49 @ OutletPC
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB FTW DT GAMING ACX 3.0 Video Card | $409.89 @ OutletPC
Case | NZXT S340 Elite (White) ATX Mid Tower Case | $89.99 @ SuperBiiz
Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA G2 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $74.99 @ NCIX US
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $88.58 @ OutletPC
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1303.27
| Mail-in rebates | -$30.00
| Total | $1273.27
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-12-20 09:50 EST-0500 |
First of, HAPPY BIRTHDAY to your Grandpa!
Second! Go onto Amazon.com and buy:
ZOOM H1 Audio recorder
Go find a list with good questions, work of it or find inspiration for your own:
100 Questions to ask your parent
50 Questions Google Doc
Now hit record and sit down with him, once or a few times, and let him ramble. Use the questions as a guide and prompt to tell his stories.
Upload the original MP3 to google drive!
You now have created great lasting memories for generations to come without much effort. Do the same with a video camera if you feel able, but don't wait too long. Time is of the essence!
Here is one I did a few years ago for friends. Great memories!
The Audio-Technica ATR2100-USB or the nearly identical AT2005-USB are ~$60-$50 and they also have an XLR port that allows them to be brought forward if you ever upgrade to a mixer or audio interface. The single most significant difference is the 2100 has a lifetime limited warranty and the 2005 has a one year warranty though I personally prefer the looks of the later. These are dynamic microphones which means they are quieter but reject room and off axis noise in non sound controlled rooms better. I have seen them compared to microphones costing several times as much quite favorably though I think a little of that is the reviewer waxing a bit poetic. Regardless, they are very good.
I'd suggest looking at the Audio Technica M40X. It's currently going for $99, and is truly an awesome pair of study headphones. They will be more suited than the M50X, because the M50X features more unnecessary bass and treble, and the soundstage is also narrower. Comparatively, the M40X is more neutral and pleasant.
But, if you can splurge upto $145, just look no further than the Beyerdynamic DT770 Pro 250 Ohm Version currently going for $144, and is like miles ahead of what the M40X/50X can offer you.
Pair the DT770 Pro with an amp like the Fiio A1 currently for $28, and you get a long term solution. Basically for just $50 more ($144 + $28), you're getting a solution that's head & shoulders above your all expectations!
The Audio-Technica ATH-M40x are probably your best option at $79.00.
these mackies are at your limit but they're gorgeous, I use the CR4's(same thing slightly larger) Good balance and clarity, and surprisingly good bass, though you won't get the pounding bass a sub will provide. I feel like that is not a big deal, I get plenty off these speakers for enjoyable movie, gaming and music.
One of my favorite features, they're reversible, you can set them up in either orientation both speakers can serve as a left or right speaker via a small switch on the back.
As a DJ I just died a little bit inside. I sure hope they have a shitty sound system because driving even a halfway decent sound system off a phone is asking for serious trouble.
It will sound like shit, it will be distorted and have a serious lack of bass and high end.
Hope you put that phone in airplane mode, nobody wants to hear your txt message or phone ringing.
Please, I implore you not to do this. At the very least you should have a low end laptop running foobar2000 or something with the auto crossfader and a low end music/dj sound card like this one.
Yes, it's called a "mixer" - you can find them for about $50 and up on Amazon, example. You're going to need an assortment of cables/addons:
Note, this assumes that you have regular headphones, not a wireless bluetooth headset paired to the PS3, in which case you're screwed.
Just from a sound person point of view, you wouldn't want the metal piece over the open bit of the mic. Also, this mic has a built in mic stand mount, so I'm curious where that part could have gotten off to, there should be a little hinge right near the USB input, if you're gonna Macgyver somethin, start there, it should be as easy as putting another pivoting stand mount with an interior thread. Also, this thing has a pretty round cardioid pickup pattern, which means it should be placed about a hand width away from your mouth, with the flat end pointed almost at your nose. Meaning, I don't know how the hell you're going to use this thing mounted this way, and actually capture decent sound.
edit: here, if you dont like this mic anyway, [spend less money and get something better] (https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Snowball-iCE-Condenser-Microphone/dp/B014PYGTUQ/)
edit 2: proper words.
Here is the link. It does work with Blue Snowball and yeti. Just check the Q/A below
thanks for the review. Ive a few of these arms in my workbench as well. If it helps anyone save some $$$ using 3-6(for dslr) of these microphone mounts and hacking them together can get the desired effect with extra parts to spare and no more sway because you have doubled the springs. Ive been using that for about 2 years now and theres no noticable lack in strength.
Youll be saving about 80$+ (From 120$ to <40$). I dont have a dslr anymore but there should be some dslr tripod mounts that you can 3d print to also get that camera holder mount.
If not I can build a 3d model and test it out for anyone for a small fee (once I do, ill send it over to you if youre in the US).
edit: downvotes :/
The two ROLI bags belong to the ROLI Seaboard Rise. Awesome, but pricey.
The small item to the left of it is a Teenage Engineering OP-1 Portable Synthesizer.
To the left of it is a audio interface, Scarlett. To me it looks like a 2i2.
Below that is the Arturia BeatStep Pro.
Below the ROLI bags is the Apogee Quartet Audio Interface
And to the left of that is the Yamaha Reface DX
I don't know what the other things are, but I hope that I helped
I've said it before here, and I'll say it again: I think a cheap recording interface and a DAW (Digital Audio Workstation) is one of the most powerful tools for isolating issues, practicing, working through trouble spots, creativity, and more, and you can get started for about $100-$150.
I constantly use my interface and DAW. A very common use for me is to throw down an audio track with a song I'm having problems with, then I'll loop the tough sections and practice them over and over until I nail them. Some DAWs will allow you to adjust your playback speed without affecting the pitch, so if you're trying to tackle a super technical spot in something like YYZ, you can slow playback speed by 50% (or whatever) allowing you to play the song at a slower speed, then as you develop your chops you can increase the speed, ultimately easing yourself into playing the song at full speed.
I also use it for learning songs real fast. I'll start at the beginning of a song and loop the first ~25%, practice until I know it, then loop the next 25% of the song until I know it, etc until I've worked thorugh the whole song and I've found that I internalize songs much faster by doing this. The beauty is that you can lay a track down with virtually anything that can play through your phone (or basically anything with an audio jack). Just lay down a stereo track, hook up your phone to the interface via stereo cable, press record on your DAW and play on your phone.
I have a whole project for the songs I practice, each song has its own track, then below each song's track I have my bass line that I play, which I can then analyze. Recording yourself is like putting a magnifying glass on your playing, you might be surprised. I remember the first time I recorded myself I thought I nailed my part, then when I played it back I was quite humbled, to say the least!
There are tons of ways you can use a recording interface for practicing, but of course you can (and should) also use it for music creation. There are billions of free plugins out there which will work with most DAWs. Just get a cheap $30 MIDI keyboard and you'll have unlimited creative potential that would have cost tens of thousands of dollars to have just a couple decades ago in the analog world.
I personally use a Mackie Onyx Blackjack recording interface, which I would not recommend if you are using Windows (drivers are aging and Mackie doesn't appear to be updating them or supporting newer OSs, which is a shame). For a DAW I use Logic Pro X (only available on OS X), which is the best $200 I've ever spent, but you don't need to spend that (or anything) to get into a DAW. When you buy a recording interface it should come with a basic DAW that will do all the essentials, if you want something real powerful for cheap then try Reaper, which has a trial that doesn't ever cripple the software, and it's only $60 for a license (which you should buy to support the dev if you like it, it's a great piece of software).
For recording interfaces, the Scarlett Focusrite is super popular ($150). You can get decent recording interfaces for a little cheaper, I would just make sure it has at least two channels.
20 cents cheaper on amazon.com via third party seller.
Review by Z Reviews: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X6wBv03B1nk
Might be a tad bit biased, but there is important information here.
I'd say for me, if I were making my own home office and wanted to trick it out:
At minimum a dual monitor setup, but it would be nice to have 3 (I have dual monitors and also the laptop screen running them so it works out to 3.) A nice monitor arm that will hold both (or all 3) monitors to keep the desk clutter free. Something nice that makes both monitors adjustable for you (maybe even a 90 degree rotation so you can code on a vertical screen when you feel like it.)
A nice condenser mic with an arm for it as well. I figure if I were working from home I would probably be doing conference calls more regularly than if I were in the office, so a good condenser mic will make my life easier and make sure I can communicate well. Maybe a blue yeti or blue yeti snowball with a nice boom arm for it like so so I can use it when I want it and then push it away when I don't.
In the same vein, a decent webcam that can clip on to my monitor (or buy one of the above boom arms and attach the camera to it, probably smart for only $15 so you can move it around.)
Definitely a great office chair since you can justify the expense and you're going to be sitting all day.
This one is great regardless of working for home or working from the office, but a nice mouse. I just got a Logitech G502 the other day for gaming as well as work purposes and MAN. I never knew what I was missing out on. I have thumb buttons/extra buttons programmed to copy, paste, delete, winkey + e to open an explorer window, ctrl + t for new tab, and also a key combination to switch my active window to my other monitor so I can quickly move stuff between them without having to click and drag.
Since you're working from home and don't have to worry about bothering other people, I'd definitely buy a nice mechanical keyboard. They're a dream to type on. I used to have an office to myself so I bought one and I miss it dearly now that I'm in a cubicle. In my opinion, well worth the expense.
Again since you're not in an office you could get a nice speaker. Bluetooth to keep the cord clutter down but really anything works. You can go budget or big here.
If you're a whiteboard person, a whiteboard to hang on the wall.
Definitely yes to the dock. I have one here at my office and it's so flipping nice being able to plug in one thunderbolt cable and keep the clutter contained to the back of my desk behind my monitors with the dock.
I'd probably buy a nice standing or desk light that still uses filament bulbs to make it warm/easy on the eyes. Ample lighting. And probably a plant or two just to make it look nice and feel good being there.
That's all I can think of. Can you tell I'm living vicariously through you? I know you said must haves, so if I were going to buy the above in order, it would be monitors > dock > mouse > blue yeti snowball > mic stand > camera > camera stand
this is a real good one
Ask yourself what type of gaming you do. I was playing CS:GO on a pair of ATH-M50x's and while the deep sounds were great, for music even more so, I ended up enjoying all "positional" FPS games much more when i got a pair of Sennheiser HD 598's. Ridiculously priced on amazon right now.. http://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-HD-598-Over-Ear-Headphones/dp/B0042A8CW2
I was considering a Mod Mic but decided on the Audio-Technica ATR2100-USB with a desk clamp and windscreen and do not regret it one bit. I'm surprised with the quality of this mic and i don't have to wear my headphones to use it. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004QJOZS4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Not being a dick or anything just dont want it to fall
You are playing too much Aphex Twin.
What you are actually hearing is a classic case of poorly shielded onboard audio hardware and/or poorly grounded hardware. Since pushing on the connector helps that means it is probably the latter. You have to ground the plugs manually by physically adjusting them or soldiering them. Another option is not using your onboard soundcard and getting something like this behringer dac to replace your soundcard and separate your audio from all the bad inside your PC.
To build a system using the minimum recommendations from this sub, let's start with this diagram: http://i.imgur.com/Z8FMJ.png
DAC is optional, so is a subwoofer but I recommend one.
DAC: Behringer UCA202 $29.99 Link: http://amzn.com/B000KW2YEI
Amplifier: SMSL SA-50 $68.99 Link: http://amzn.com/B00F0H8TOC
Subwoofer: Dayton Audio SUB-800 $99.00 Link: http://amzn.com/B0063NU30K
Bookshelf Speakers: Micca MB42X $89.00 Link: http://amzn.com/B00E7H8GG2
Wire: 16-gauge Speaker Wire $8.00 Link: http://amzn.com/B006LW0WDQ
With DAC, this cable: Stereo Male to 2 RCA Male $5 Link: http://amzn.com/B00I0HPK6O
Without DAC, this cable: Monoprice 105597 3-Feet Premium Stereo Male to 2RCA Male $5 Link: http://amzn.com/B0094A1F3S
This is a great starter system, I would have loved to had something like this starting out.
All of these pieces can be upgraded, do your research. Look for sales etc. Good luck and have fun.
So assuming that all normal PC components are included (PC, display, keyboard, mouse), as well as monitors or headphones, this is what I'd do:
DAW: Cakewalk by Bandlab [FREE]
Interface: BEHRINGER UMC22[$59]
Mic: Audio-Technica AT2020 [$99]
MIDI Controller: Alesis VMini [$49]
I'd try to get by using as many free VSTs, as well as what's included in Cakewalk. Here's a list of decent free stuff that'd get you started:
Guitar amp sims: LePuo free collection [FREE]
Drum sim: MT Power Drum Kit [FREE]
Assuming your PC is relatively recent and has enough horsepower to run a production suite, and you have monitors/headphones that are fine for mixing, this would be a great place to start out. Also, even after buying extras like cables, mic stands, pop filters etc, I'd say you have about $200-250 left for whatever genre specific stuff you'd want - whether it be a used guitar, a second mic (such as the Shure SM57 [$95]) or a second hand hardware synthesizer, for instance.
I just bought the JBL LSR 305's for 99 bucks each.
I saw this on the recommended sidebar and this is the lowest I've seen it on camelcamelcamel. This is a good price right?
So I would suggest the JBL 305's. Same price just a better monitor. $130 is for one monitor. Check amazon as I found my JBL 305's for $123 a piece. There are a few ways to hook these up to your PC. The easiest and most efficient is to hook them up to a Audio Interface. Another way is to get a 3.5mm to TRS cable.
For general listening these are fine, I use my JBL's for music production and youtube watching. My JBL's get pretty loud and these are the smaller monitors so the bigger you go the louder they get.
JBL 305 $135 each
Focusrite Scarlett Solo/2i2 as audio interface. If you are certain that you're only going to record one thing at a time, the Solo will be sufficient.
I've seen many people recommending Reaper which is the WinRar version of free DAWs (I think?)
Focusrite Scarlett 2i2
Go play at open mics. This is great for networking with other musicians/bands.
You could also get a cheap recording setup, record band demos, and email those to venues. My old band recorded on a laptop from an SM57 going into a Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 and we edited/mixed/arranged/exported all the audio through Audacity (free). That's it. Excluding the laptop and mic cables, all this costs around $250 Hell, there's even cheaper alternatives available if you're super strapped for cash.
As for actually finding venues that exist near you, try going to Indie on the move and type in your area and it'll give you all the venues that exist within however big a radius you put.
Hopefully this helps!
This question might be better suited for /r/audioengineering .
Who will ask you what the fuck you're doing starting a label to produce cassettes. Nobody has a cassette player anymore. But at least some of the old-timers will probably have the know-how.
As a side note, the Behringer UCA202 (or 222, choose your color) is a really affordable USB interface with line-level RCA inputs and outputs. I use mine as a DAC outputting line-level audio to my headphone amplifier. It sends a nice clean signal and only costs $30. I assume you would take that line-level signal from the stereo RCA outputs and plug it into the input on whatever cassette recorder you wind up with.
Not sure about metal specifically, but in general I can't recommend the [Audio Technica ATH-M40x's] (https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATH-M40x-Professional-Monitor-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR54/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1502021666&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=audio+technica+ath-m40x) enough. Some of the most commonly praised headphones are the M50x's, and the M40's are very similar. The specs are listed on that Amazon link, but basically the range sounds practically identical to a casual listener so there's no need to worry about a loss of frequency response unless you're looking to do some professional mixing. They're also lighter than the M50's so they're more comfortable to wear.
I listen to a fairly wide variety of music, metal included, and I'll tell you that the M40's are a very good value for only being $100. Do your own research and get plenty of opinions, but the M40's are a very good option for the price.
For my setup (the live mixed one) I use this.
To record my own voice, I have a microphone set up next to me.
To record my teammates, I split the Xbox Live headset with this.
From the splitter to the audio mixer, I have one of these from an old Turtle Beach headset. I have to use this and select "MUTE" on it to prevent my team from hearing an echo.
Finally, they all plug into the mixer, which then outputs to the PVR.
This is a rather complicated setup and means I have several wires going to my controller. I should also mention that doing this means my own voice comes out of my TV when I'm playing. I avoid this by muting my TV and using a Turtle Beach headset. The audio for that comes from the fiber optic connection in the back and is unaffected by my other modifications.
A simpler way to do it with the mixer would be to skip the splitter part and just have your Xbox voice output set to play through speakers. The voice is a bit lower quality, but it works.
Then finally is the third option. No live mixing, but recording your voice with a computer and mixing it in software later.
Btw, nice effort on the è but you want the other one: fiancé
It's easy to remember: é the stripe goes on and so does the sound. è the stripe stops and the sound is short
This is what Sound Mixers are made to do.
Its the ATH M50'S x.
pay attention to the symbol the triangle.
Ok, so you need a mic as well. Alrighty. I'm going to suggest you go a different route than pretty much what everybody else is suggesting. I personally dislike the all in one headsets, especially if they're marketed as "gaming", double especially if they are 5.1 or 7.1 surround sound.
If your priority is actually hearing things in game, and determining direction and such, you are better served with a stereo set that emphasizes the mid range and high end frequencies while de-emphasizing the low end. Low end boosting is an inexpensive way for manufacturers to make a cheap set of cans "sound" expensive, and while it can make movies and some music sound great it's not amazing for gaming.
Here we go with a 100 budget. I'm going to give you a buying list for a standalone set of headphones paired with a separate mic setup:
There you are sir. A flexible solution that can come quite a bit under your budget. You get way better headphones than the gamer marketed ones and a way better and more flexible mic solution as well. Have fun!
I was thinking the exact same thing all along. He probably uses a XLR to 3.5 mm adapter, and thus not providing enough voltage to the mic.
He needs something like a cheap microphone preamp or just a cheap USB audio interface with 48V Phantom power.
EDIT: Just something like this.
No, you likely don't NEED this nice of a boom arm. The $12.50 NEEWER arm will certainly get the job done for much much cheaper. But if you prefer professional/higher quality and don't mind paying a premium for such, then the RODE arm may be for you. This thing very rarely goes on discount as you can see here.
The aux in bypasses the preamp and tone adjustments from the amp so you need to adjust the bass with an equalizer app or bass boost app on your phone. One other option I have used is a mini mixer with stereo inputs using the proper cable from your phone to the inputs (probably RCA type) or 1/4" dual mono inputs on the mixer...I have a couple of these cheap Behringer USB 302 for around $50-60 (they used to be around $40 when I bought mine)...https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-302USB-Premium-5-Input-Interface/dp/B005EHILV4
These will allow you to adjust the bass and treble from your phone. Cheers
The headset that broke was the G35 headset from Logitech which goes for about $90 these days. It's a great headset but this would be my 3rd set in 4 years. The mic quality is average and often requires fussing with in post but overall it's a great headset.
While rocking this backup setup I've been using ear buds and I quite like it compared to the closed ear noise cancelling headset so I don't think I want to go the headset route again.
I've always wanted to go the XLR/Mixer route. This would allow me to manipulate any volume/noise issues with the mic on the fly and not touch it at all in post. I never settled on a solution that was afforable and always went with what I knew the G35.
This is the goal. It's not much more expensive than the G35 headset but is the correct tool for the job :Þ
A few notes about these choices. The 5 channel mixer is total overkill but this one functions as a USB audio interface meaning when you plug it in to your PC it shows up like a USB mic would. Behringer makes a 3 port USB mixer but I don't like the way it looks lol.
Not all mixers have the ability to function as a USB device. On NON USB mixers you would have to run the output of the mixer into the input on your soundcard on your PC.
I prefer the audio device approach. You plug your XLR mic into the mixer which is acting as the USB audio device. This allows you to control on the mixer what the computer hears on the audio device interface.
Totally a long and involved answer but some might find it useful if in the market for audio upgrades :Þ
I'm late to the party but I strongly disagree with your microphone suggestions. A condenser microphone is going to pick up mouse/keyboard sounds no matter how directional it is. I originally bought a Blue Yeti and was shocked by how much environmental noise it picks up, this is not a viable option for most people.
Instead what you should do is get a dynamic cardioid or supercardioid microphone. Not a lot of these exist with a USB connection but the ones that do work extremely well. I recommend the Audio Technica ATR2100-USB (alternative version) or the Samson Q1U if you can't find the AT, they're difficult to get in Europe for some reason.
Either of these will serve the purpose of the average steamer much better than the microphones you are recommending.
I personally recommend the Audio Technica ATR-2100. Same price as the Snowball but sounds nearly as good as the Yeti. There's no pop filter, but with the money you save you could just buy one.
The Audio-Technical ATR2100. Can be connected via USB or XLR. I use these on my multi-host rig and I’m very pleased with their quality.
Audio-Technica ATR2100-USB Cardioid Dynamic USB/XLR Microphone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004QJOZS4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_EKPmDbZ39SBVF
The Behringer UCA-222. It's 30 bucks, acts as a headphone amp as well as a stereo RCA interface with optical out for easy connection to a stereo, mixer, etc. I use mine to plug my laptop into my living room home entertainment system. I never have to worry about a lousy 1/8" to RCA cable breaking or falling out of my computer's headphone jack.
I don't like to be harsh, but when I give feedback, it's always best to be straight.
It looks to me like your trying to be almost exactly like Pewdiepie. You did the whole "realization in 3, 2, 1 WTF" thing that he has done a few times before. You also did the whole dance music thing with the kid, and even had the dad call him a disgrace.
Your mic is....really bad. Maybe you should look into investing in something else? I use a Blue Snowball, and it really gets the job done. Here's a link to amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Microphones-Snowball-Microphone-Textured/dp/B000EOPQ7E
Listen, if people want to watch Pewdiepie, they'll go watch Pewds. You need to be yourself! It's your channel, make it about you!
EDIT: Don't downvote the guy! Everyone has room for improvement :D
I'm assuming you have a physical location to record & some type of computer.
Get ahold of $100-$500. Buy a microphone & either some really nice headphones or some studio monitors (i recommend headphones if you can't do both). My first mic was a Blue Snowball. I love using my Audio Technica headphones. Probably not gonna win you any grammys but it will teach you some things until you can afford a better setup.
OBTAIN... in whichever way you see fit... some software to record on called a DAW. From the free software Audacity to something like Logic Pro X or Studio One. Just get one. There's hundreds of tutorials on youtube on how to use them. You're also going to want to get some Vsts. Google will be your friend for this section lol.
Practice making songs on here in the cypher & collab call threads. There's also a billion beats on youtube that nobody's going to know you used if you just keep it between yourself and some friends.
Do that for however long it takes for you to feel that you're good. There's plenty of forums out there like gearslutz and this one and some others that you can get info on.
When you feel like you're good start buying beats and all that stuff. Until then you're going to have to practice and learn what you sound like and what makes a good song otherwise it'll be a waste of money. It's much cheaper to collab with people though...
For networking if you make a good song and start sharing it with your friends it'll get around since you're still in high school. That's already 2k potential fans & they all have people that they know. Start with them. It's NYC and the world is much smaller than you think...
EDIT: Also never pay to do a show and stay on the lookout for scammers.
You could get yourself a small mixer with a headphone output. http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-502-XENYX502-5-Channel-Mixer/dp/B000J5UEGQ for example. Then you send the monitor signal from your front of house mixer to a channel on that instead of to an amp and speaker, and then connect your click to another channel on the mixer. Plug your earbuds into the headphone out and enjoy playing to a click!
It might be easier to just download Audacity and get an affordable audio interface and mic. Here's what I record with and it sounds great for what I need.
Focusrite Scarlett Solo - $89
Tonor Condensor Mic - $30
XLR Cable - $6
To be honest, It really depends on what your budget is. If you have a $10,000 budget my recommendations are going to change drastically compared to if you have say, a $400 budget.
Assuming you want to keep price pretty low but still want pretty nice quality I recommend the following.
My one tip to anybody beginning is learn to mix and experiment. You can have a shitty mic and a shitty interface, but if you can mix well, You can make 90% of things sound at least decent and that's all that really matters in music. If you make a song that's a banger but it's not mixed that great, people will still listen to it. If you have a shitty song that's mixed by a world class engineer, nobody is going to listen to it. Don't get caught up in making sure everything sounds amazing, Just work and be creative.
Blue Snowball iCE Condenser Microphone, Cardioid - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014PYGTUQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fOAvCbJTQ64C8
Here's a similarly priced mic from a much more reputable company, it's USB over XLR, so you don't need to buy an interface, and it isn't a Chinese knockoff
The Blue Snowball is a decent cheap microphone at $50
[Blue Snowball] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B014PYGTUQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511643949&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=blue+snowball&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=31Ju5HK-6bL&amp;ref=plSrch)
Audacity is a free audio editing software that has a lot of tutorials to make your audio top quality.
[Audacity Download] (http://www.audacityteam.org/download/)
As for a computer, you can do it on any laptop it’s just the speed you want your edits and final products to compile is related to your processing power.
What they are using is an interface, a DAW and possibly an amp simulator on their computer.Basically an interface is a box that you plug your instrument or mic into that goes into your computer. It turns the analog signal of the instrument or mic into digital information that the computer can read. These can be worth a hundred dollars to thousands of dollars depending on your needs.
The bass signal would then have to go into an amp simulator for the direct input signal to be heard like it's played through an amp. These amplify and change your signal just like an amp would do, providing a full sound for your guitar/bass. These are can be worth anything from 0 dollars to a couple hundred and each has its own sound and quality.
DAW stands for Digital Audio Workstation and allows your instrument or mic to be recorded along with other tracks and instruments. These allow you to record songs and covers but also allow you to use tons of effects including compressors and eqs, amp sims and midi instruments.If you simply want to play and/or record your bass through your computer I'd recommend getting a simple 1 input interface like a Steinberg UR12 or a Focusrite Scarlett Solo. The Focusrite would have a higher quality build and sound, but the Steinburg will still get the job done. A great DAW would be REAPER, as it is completely free to use but will request a licensing of $60 that you do not have to pay. And there are tons of great free amp simulators online, but there are some really nice amp sims for a bit of money. I'd suggest checking out This list of free sims and checking out the other paid amp sims including Bias Fx and Amplitube.
ATH-M50x's with brainwavz pads since the stock ones are thin and will fall apart after a year of heavy use. And a ModMic.
https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATH-M50x-Professional-Monitor-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR86/ - $150~
https://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Hybrid-Memory-Foam-Earpad/dp/B00ZGGG3KY - $30~
https://www.amazon.com/Antlion-Audio-ModMic-Attachable-Microphone/dp/B00R98O6R4 - $50~
Of course if you already have a mid the ModMic isn't needed. OR for just twice the price cut the second cord attached to your skull and get an AT2020 and even a Scarlett Solo for the best sound possible.
https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT2020-Cardioid-Condenser-Microphone/dp/B0006H92QK - $100~
https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Audio-Interface-Tools/dp/B01E6T56CM - $100~
What you want is called a mixer. It takes multiple inputs and sends them out one output, with volume controls for each individual audio line. Behringer makes one that is very affordable and I've been one using this for casual stuff for a few years now. You'd take the output from both computers and put them into inputs 1 and 2 on the mixer, then plug your headphones into the output jack on the right side. Voila!
Even though this may be unintuitive, you cannot reliably use splitters to sum signals. Just like a funnel upside down is not the same thing as a shower head. Google "Why Not Wye" for a great technical explanation of this problem and how to build a little summing box.
In layman's terms, the problem is that your phone output ends up fighting the mic receiver, as opposed to just adding to it. A little more technically, the phone is designed to drive headphones so it has low output impedance and allows a relatively large current to flow across the contacts. This output impedance is a property independent of the volume. The mic receiver is not meant to be an amplifier in the way your phone is, so it can only push a tiny amount of current out before the voltage drops. This is fine when plugged into an amplifier input - hardly any current has to flow. But when the phone starts soaking up its output, it doesn't put up much of a fight. This can be very detrimental to both devices, and certainly has the potential to break one or both if you push them. Not a great situation.
What you can consider is small passive mixer like [this](.Behringer MicroMIX MX400 Low-Noise 4-channel Line Mixer, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KGYAYQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LRf7ybWHMG37Q) cheap no frills option. You can also solder up some converters yourself. Finally you could use something like a DI box to isolate the phone from the mix receiver. That would do it if you have some lying around but the reason I didn't recommend it is that a small cheap mixer would be more useful and cost the same.
Yeah. Good enough. Way better mix than my previous 2.1 system. It's this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KVEIY4E/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Seems like what you need. I have no experience with mics though;
Or...I guess I get downvoted because I didn't recommend some expensive pro mic...whatever. Not really the sub for it anyway.
I've used many headphones/headsets for online/competitive shooters: AKG K52, AKG Q701, Audio-Technica ATH-AD700x, Beyerdynamic DT990 (600Ω), HiFiMan HE-400i (the revision), HiFiMan HE-500, HyperX Cloud, Koss Porta Pro, Monoprice Monlith M1060, Philips Fidelio X2, Philips SHP9500, Sennheiser HD598, Sennheiser HD700, Sennheiser HD800, Superlux HD662 EVO, Superlux HD668B, Superlux HD669, Superlux HD681 EVO, Tritton Pro+ and Turtle Beach Ear Force XP Seven, and AD700x is the one I recommend regardless of budget unless people have other preferences. Games top out very early, and around the $100 mark, diminishing returns set in hard.
There are three sonic properties that determine the performance of headphones/headsets for online/competitive shooters: soundstage, imaging and (instrument) separation.
Soundstage is produced by the headphone, not the game. It's perceived space and environment of sound. A small soundstage makes the environment around you sound confined or boxed in. With a large soundstage, the environment sounds much more open, spatial and natural. You probably have to experience it yourself to understand it.
Imaging is inherent to the audio content. It's how accurately the locations of sounds/objects are reproduced.
Soundstage and imaging are generally best achieved with open-back or semi-open-back headphones, which means the headphones have cups with grills/perforations/openings that allow sound to freely pass through, unlike closed-back headphones that have cups with solid shells which isolate sound from passing through to some extent. Soundstage and imaging constitute positional audio. You could say they are the stereo equivalent of virtual surround sound. I don't think stereo, no matter how large it is, sounds fully three-dimensional as virtual surround sound at all times. Dialogues and very loud sounds like tanks, jets, trains, etc. near you tend to sound very intimate and dominate in either ear when you don't face them. Virtual surround sound has its drawbacks too: it compresses and degrades the sound quality. I find it most noticeable with rain, waterfalls and splashing water; they sound akin to white and pink noise. Subtle details become faint or not audible. When headphones already have decent soundstage, imaging and separation, I find that virtual surround sound diffuses the positional audio and the ability to pick up and locate/track audio cues.
Virtual Surround sound varies a lot from processor to processor (CMSS-3D, Dolby Headphone, SBX, etc.) How you perceive it compared to stereo also depends on the soundstage, imaging and separation of the headphone, and how games are mixed. I recommend using a headphone with a large soundstage and great imaging and separation, like AD700x, before deciding on virtual surround sound. If you absolutely want virtual surround sound, then I strongly recommend SBX from Creative, especially over Dolby Headphone.
Separation is how you discern individual sounds from a range of overlapping sounds. This is only important in games that are competitive.
Attach an Antlion ModMic 4 and you have a headset. Alternative mics: Massdrop Minimic, Neewer, Sony ECMCS3, Zalman ZM-Mic1, Blue Snowball, Samson Go
If AD700x costs too much, then I recommend HD668B. Other open-back options that are well-regarded in the audio enthusiast community are Audio-Technica ATH-AD500x, Sennheiser HD558/HD579 and Status Audio OB-1. I strongly advise against HyperX Cloud if you don't need sound isolation. For closed-back, I recommend AKG K52, Superlux HD662 EVO and especially Superlux HD669 over the Cloud. Status Audio CB-1 is another well-regarded option, which is compatible with the V-MODA BoomPro mic.
Ableton is a great DAW and is my preferred software choice for recording/editing.
You can use the TASCAM to capture your performances and transferring those .wav files into Ableton for editing but you'll have a much better experience recording directly into your computer.
You can go a few different routes here. You can pick up an audio interface that accepts an XLR connection for a proper microphone like a Presonus Audiobox and an SM57 which will allow you to capture as good a single channel signal as you can really get outside of a big recording studio.
OR you can go with something cheaper like a Blue Snowball USB microphone. These things actually sound surprisingly good and have multiple settings for directional and omni modes for different situations.
Once you have a way of capturing audio directly into Ableton you can start building up your songs layer by layer. Experiment with things like EQ and compression/delay/etc to make your guitar tracks sound nicer. There are built in patched in Ableton for EQ like "Acoustic Guitar" or "Electric Guitar" and just dragging one of those onto your channel will be a great place to start.
That's a skill in and of itself but you have to start somewhere so start experimenting.
When starting out applying EQ to tracks I'd start this way :
Do that 3 or 4 times on a channel and you'll have something that sounds a bit nicer. If you do too much it'll sound hollow and empty so make subtle adjustments as much as possible. Don't dump that "bad frequency" all the way to the bottom, just bring it down a little bit so it doesn't jump out at you.
You won't be creating drastically new tones this way, just polishing them so they sound nicer.
Having a good pair of headphones or even some inexpensive studio monitors will also be extremely helpful so you can accurately hear what you're producing.
Use the built-in metronome and record with headphones (so the click doesn't get picked up by the microphone) to keep things tight.
Once you've finished your audio and it's how you like it THEN film your video and just play along with the click. Don't use any audio from the video recording and just pair the two back up in editing.
For headphones I use these
For my mic I use this With a scissor boom.
A good microphone is probably the most important thing a streamer can have, other than of course a great personality and good social skills, so buying him a microphone would be a great idea. I read that you're looking at spending a maximum of $200. For $200 you should probably buy a USB microphone, as they don't require any kind of external hardware like a mixer or an audio interface. They're generally slightly worse quality, but that doesn't really matter because the audio quality will be compressed anyway, and only audiophiles would be looking for studio quality audio from a gaming livestream.
The higher quality option is an XLR microphone, but they require an audio interface. This will generally be a more expensive option because audio interfaces are usually just as expensive as microphones, so I wouldn't choose this option if I were you. An XLR microphone, a microphone arm, and an audio interface will cost around $250 if not more.
If you decide to go for a microphone, I would say you should go for an AT2020 USB microphone. It's by far the best option if you want good audio quality for a good price. You could go for the Streaming/Podcasting pack if you want headphones and a microphone arm included, which maxes out your budget. It's actually a bit cheaper than buying the mic and a good microphone stand seperately, plus you get a pair of decent looking headphones to go with it.
I can't really vouch for the microphone arm and the headphones as I haven't tried them personally, but Audio Technica is a really good brand. I would be surprised if it wasn't superb quality.
Let me know if you have any questions :)
I think the JBL LSR305 are the best value. Sometimes you can catch them for $250/pr or less.
They're $276/pr on amazon right now.
Also these 5" Mackies for $220
I have these $99 Mackies. Definitely not a pro-quality studio monitor, but they're cheap, loud, and work great as both my synth & CPU speakers.
Must Have Apps
Very excited to be ~95% complete with the install. A couple things left:
More than happy to try to answer questions for anyone else looking to do the same thing. Very happy with the outcome thus far.
Swan D1010-IV powered bookshelves cannot be best for under $70:
Monoprice's basic 8" powered sub is just $60 right now:
So, at this point you should still have around $60 left to work with. I would recommend spending that on some kind of external DAC; pretty much anything will be an upgrade over the onboard outputs from your motherboard. This unit from Behringer is well-regarded and gets the job done for $30:
Grab two of these RCA splitters from Monoprice; you'll use them to split the one set of left and right outputs from the DAC into two, to route each to both the Swans and there sub:
Grab a couple sets of these RCA cables to run from the splitters, to both the Swans and the sub (they're available in 6, 12, and 25 feet; get whatever you need to reach, probably 6 for the Swans and maybe 12 for the sub):
Let me know if you have any other questions (hooking things up, etc), or would like further recommendations. Enjoy!
I've used a Behringer UCA-202 on Fedora 19, Fedora 20, and Debian Wheezy. It's always been a plug-and-play affair. It has a headphone jack and is reasonably priced.
It sounds good to boot.
Best answer is probably/maybe. Here are some options at different price points:
$76 FiiO E10K
$100 Modi 2
Behringer UCA202 - This is what I use with my laptop.
You really, really need an interface. The built-in soundcard isn't quite up to snuff when it comes to audio input, and as /u/despicable_secret mentioned, condenser mics need 48V of phantom power to function correctly.
The most popular option is the Focusrite Scarlett Solo, but just about any of these will do the trick.
If anyone's curious about getting an XLR setup, I can direct you to some pretty good starting gear! I personally use the Audio Technica AT2020 cardiod condensor microphone and a Focusrite USB audio interface. You'll also want to buy a male to female XLR cable of some kind. A pop filter is also a good investment! And, of course, you'll want a stand of some kind for the microphone. I personally use this but it limits your ability to move the microphone away from a desk.
If you want studio quality, be sure to record in 24-bit 48k, with an uncompressed format like a wav. That's the standard both Hollywood and indie productions have been using for years.
Oh, and if anyone's curious about credentials, I mix and record audio for commercials.
For ear to ear type things you're going to really want 2 separate mics, a normal stereo mic just won't give you really noticeable stereo sound.
Assuming that you're recording on a computer, something like 2 of these would be better in my opinion.
In the future, something like this would be good before stepping up into something more professional.
Most people would recommend a Blue Snowball but I really like the concept of the Modmic. Honestly though, I used a three dollar desktop microphone I got from Microcenter and, while I wore the headphones to get rid of background noise, I was getting compliments on the microphone quality.
Edit: I forgot about the Zalman clip-on but that seems like such a pain.
The microphone you have is a blue snowball non ice version. The Blue yeti is a completely different mic.
Like a mixer?
Actually there are plenty of mic arms under $100 that hold the yeti, it's just the seller will state otherwise. This is what you want: https://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-Microphone-Suspension-Broadcasting-Voice-Over/dp/B00DY1F2CS
I own it and it's great for the price.
Your mic stand snapped? I'm pretty sure you got a defective product. The mic only weighs 1.2 pounds without the stand...
I have the $10 NEEWER stand and it's been great for about the year I've had it.
> Audio Technica
Bought these a few months ago and couldn't be happier spending $100. My mixes have actually improved a tonn using these just because they present the sound as is with no bullshit so it stays consistent and accurate. They come with a really long cord that detaches from both sides and a nice little "leather" baggy to take it on the road. They also have an optional $30 Bluetooth adapter.
You said you got a $200 budget, so maybe go for a higher model although many people on youtube said 50x is not that much better than 40x and isn't worth the price difference.
Not sure if you are interested, but I would actually recommend splitting that 200 on M40Xs and a MPK Mini midi keyboard. Both are 100 and would bring more value for $200 (if you don't already have a midi keyboard.
Arranqué el proyecto Economista del medio el año pasado como una forma de llevar el laburo de analista de consultoría macroeconómica a un espectro de población más amplio, lo cual implica menos jerga y biribiri financiero. Este año se sumó la periodista de Infobae Jorgelina Do Rosario y empezamos a cambiar el formato del programa: hemos ordenado los temas y sumamos las entrevistas que le dan un valor agregado enorme al oyente. Estamos muy contentos con el resultado hasta ahora, tanto en calidad del material como en escuchas.
De la misma manera que como mejoró el material también mejoró el hardware con el cual grabamos. En su momento empecé con un mixer Behringer Xenyx 1202FX, un micrófono Shure SM58, unos auriculares Audio Technica M40x y una Zoom H4n. Luego de mi viaje a Japón me traje micrófono un Audio Technica 4040 (large diaphragm condenser) y ahí terminó el avance en hardware en 2016. En términos de software editaba (y sigo editando) el archivo crudo con el Logic Pro X de Apple.
Este año invertimos y nos trajimos (via Amazon Europa) un mixer Allen & Heath Zed60 10fx y un segundo micrófono Audio Technica pero el AT875r (un shotgun cortito condenser que es una maravilla). De backup tenemos dos micrófonos Audio Technica 2100 (los que son USB/XLR) que en relación precio/calidad son muy recomendados para los podcasters amateurs. En resumen, nuestro lineup de materiales es de primera calidad y para explotarlo al máximo, estamos intentando mejorar el tratamiento acústico del área donde grabamos para minimizar ruidos indeseados.
Como te decía, estamos muy contentos con las escuchas (en número general y en público en particular, es decir, los quienes). Hemos recibido comentarios de gente que nos sorprendió y eso nos motiva. Todavía no es LA masividad en escuchas pero queremos estar acá invirtiendo en esto para que cuando explote el podcasting en Argentina (porque va a pasar, que no te quepa la menor duda) tener una buena base y experiencia para seguir proyectándonos.
Lo lindo es que se están acercando algunos sponsors interesados en el material asi que significa que hay proyección a futuro. La verdad que al día de hoy estamos muy a gusto y cómodos laburando en el proyecto, que es para nosotros ahora lo más importante.
Por otro lado, una de las cosas más copadas que me pasó es poder grabar con una persona que conozco y confío de hace muchos años. Al principio hacerlo solo era más un desahogo pero laburar con alguien en esto, que aparte sabe y se mueve en el medio, tiene algo muy especial y divertido. Ese es un item que taché de mi lista de pendientes.
En materia de proyección a futuro y ToDos, creo que seguir mejorando y buscando calidad para ofrecer el mejor producto disponible en el mercado. En materia de hardware todavía tengo la espinita clavada por el Shure SM7b con su respectivo Cloudlifter pero por ahora estamos muy contentos con el equipo con el cual grabamos.
Bare minimum: you need an audio interface, such as the Behringer UM2, an XLR cable, and a DAW, like Audacity. There are more expensive and higher quality options for all of the above, of course.
Your problem is the lack of an actual preamp. Phantom Power does not do anything to the actual microphone signal level, it merely provides the capacitor circuitry in a condenser microphone with the power necessary to operate. However, the output from that microphone is still going to be extremely low. (Microphones are generally -40 to -60 dBv, which is 100 to 1000 times weaker than the signal powering your speakers, for example.) Microphone inputs on motherboards are notoriously craptastic as well.
Vileem's suggestion to try using the USB output on the UPM-1 is a good one - this is probably going to provide you with a much stronger signal to your computer. If you want to keep things analog until they hit the motherboard, then you need a preamp that also provides phantom power. Something like the ART TubeMP - but this could lead to other problems as you may run into phasing issues or left-channel-only issues when plugging into a computer input. This is why USB preamps are generally preferred.
If you want cheap and effective, my recommendation would be to send the UPM-1 back, and get something like the Behringer UM2 - for $30, it handles phantom power, it has direct monitoring (meaning you can hear the microphone right as you speak, instead of after passing through the motherboard and OS which adds latency), has nice big dials for controlling level on top, and also acts as a secondary sound card (output device) as well - honestly it will likely sound better than your motherboard's sound card.
I would definitely pay more than $11 for your ADC. In fact, the one in your laptop is probably better.
Ideally, you want an audio interface where you can control the gain. Biggest problems I had (aside from lots of noise) in these cheap audio interfaces was the inability to set the input gain or lack of a preamp.
The Behringer's aren't amazing, but something like the UM-2 should be a vast improvement.
You can return that Nady because the UM2 has phantom in it, and you pay about the same price.
You have 2 good choices.
Will you mainly be using it stationary or in one room? (i.e. a film where you set up the shots beforehand) Buy a Zoom H4n
Will you be using it while walking around and want better sound for random shots or documentary style recording? Buy a Zoom H1.
You want the Audio Technica ATR2100 ($50)
With a sound card made for studio usage, lag/latency shouldn't be a major issue. Some basic knowledge is required to set it up, but that same knowledge is required for any sort of computer-based recording, so it's easy to come by these days! There's tons of materials about this online, but I'll write a brief summary (not to be considered a tutorial!).
(I'm assuming Windows usage here. For Macs, the default sound card may be good enough -- it was in my 2006 and 2011 Macbook Pros. Apple's Core Audio API is really good for a OS stock one!)
You need a sound card (or: "audio interface") with good ASIO drivers. In practice, that means one that is designed for studio use. That doesn't have to mean anything very expensive, though. The cheapest ones are about $100-120, but a pretty decent one is probably more like $180.
A few examples:
FocusRite Scarlett 2i2 (a 2nd generation is on the way, so I wouldn't recommend this right now. Also, I returned my Scarlett 2i4 due to having issues.)
Roland Quad Capture (the one I use personally)
Presonus AudioBox 22VSL
The sound card you already have might work well enough with the ASIO4ALL driver, in which case you may be able to use the hardware you already have.
Once you have one of those, you install the drivers and set up the ASIO latency or buffer size (different names, same thing) to some low value. You might have to tweak this -- having too low a value will cause dropouts as the computer doesn't have time to apply effects and so on before it's time to move the sound to the speakers.
With that in place, there are a few ways to go. You need some sort of effects (like amplifiers, cabinets, delays, EQs and so on); the easy way to do this is to use some package. I mostly use Guitar Rig for this, but there are plenty of others, such as AmpliTube and Peavey ReValver. There are fully free options as well, e.g. the LePou plugins.
You can use those in several ways. The simplest would be to use a simple audio editor, like Audacity. Another way would be to use a DAW (Digital Audio Workstation), i.e. an application used for recording music, with tracks and mixers.
I use REAPER for that, as it's about $60 and I still prefer it to ones that cost ten times as much. Other popular choices are Cubase, Logic (Mac), Pro Tools, and so on.
So, yeah, it's a bit of an involved process... but once you're there, the main difference between playing for fun (to a track or by yourself) and recording an album is clicking the record button before you start playing. :)
As for cost, that really varies. If you're lucky and your sound card works well with ASIO4ALL (or you have a Mac and that works well), you can do this for free. If you need to buy a sound card and want to use the software legally, you might have to pay a few hundred bucks for the combo.
I'd consider getting the Sony A6300. You'll be able to do 120fps in FullHD.
I'd then consider recording your audio externally, maybe on something as simple as a Zoom H1. It's going to be difficult to find a high framerate camera that also does clean audio capture within your budget.
If you want to cancel everything out then you should definitely go with a dynamic microphone. It's the kind of mic that they use when giving interviews on convention floors and stuff like that.
I recommend either the AT2005 or ATR2100. One of those paired with a scissor arm and a pop filter and you're all set :)
You can get an entirely decent USB mic for like, $60, but /u/MeaningfulChoices is right. Voice acting is a skill like any other, and if you don't have someone on your team that can swing it, go hit up somewhere like Fiverr. Quality will be a bit of a mixed bag, but it should be good enough. Probably.
Though, be sure you need voice audio. Mediocre voice acting is probably worse than none at all IMO.
If you're on a budget, I'd recommend the following...
Sadly, a $125 microphone mounted on your hot shoe will not give you high quality sound. The mic will still be too far from your subjects and you'll still have the challenge of the T5i's noisy preamps.
Instead, you might want to consider a couple of other options in your budget range (either option will require you to sync your audio and video tracks in the edit):
Option 1: Buy a decent quality [$99.99 external recorder] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003QKBVYK/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B003QKBVYK&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=battleforthew-20) and get it close to your subject (either on their person or on a boom as pictured [here] (https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-9Y6-Dzel6tQ/U4sh36uWaSI/AAAAAAAAIzA/A-sKB4PzWOE/w965-h543-no/P1080826.JPG)) or
Option 2: Buy one or two [$70 Aspen HQ-S Lavaliers for iPhone] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MVK29BK/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B00MVK29BK&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=battleforthew-20), plug them into your subjects' iOS or Android phones and record to the free [Rode Rec LE for iOS] (https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/r-de-rec-le/id590021166?mt=8), [Smart Voice Recorder for Android] (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.andrwq.recorder&amp;hl=en) or [Skyro Voice Recorder for Android] (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.triveous.recorder&amp;hl=en) apps - then sync your sound in post.
Here is how a lav/phone combo works (example is for the Rode SmartLav, but it makes the point for the entire lav/phone category):
Either of these options will give you higher quality sound than plugging a consumer shotgun mic directly into your camera.
Alright, so the first thing you have to understand is that the Snowball is a condenser microphone. Compared to dynamic mics, condenser have a much higher frequency response range. In layman's terms, it means that condenser mics are gonna pick up everything.
The next thing is that you've got to understand how sound works, and more importantly how a microphone picks up sound. Condenser mics generally have a cardioid pattern, which means they only pick up sound from the immediate area in front of them, in kind of a cone-shaped pattern. This means that the optimal range for a a mic such as the snowball to pick up sound nice a clear is about four to eight inches in front of it.
However, sounds from outside that range can still be picked up. If sound waves enter that cardioid pattern, the mic will pick them up. So if you're in a room with lots of flat walls, sound will bounce off of them and back into the mic. This is what creates reverb. Uneven surfaces bounce sound around in lots of different directions, sometimes back into the surface itself, and therefore don't reflect sound back to the mic.
So, knowing all this, the best way to reduce the sounds of button clicking are A.) moving the controller either above or below the mic's pickup range, and B.) putting some kind of uneven, soft surface between the controller and the mic. Basically, toss a towel over your hands when you play. Fold it in half, even, for a thicker layer.
In the future, consider getting a dynamic mic, like the Audio Technica ATR2100. Just keep in mind that because it's a dynamic mic, the sound will generally sound less 'full', on account of the fact that it can't pick up as many frequencies. It'll pick up fewer of the higher frequencies, making the lower ones stand out. Think punchy, like a radio DJ, but not quite as 'rich'. However, that also means the physical range on it is a lot shorter, meaning for it to pick up sound at all, the source has to be a lot closer. You know how when you see a band live, the singer tends to basically swallow the mic? Now you know why.
I'd recommend the ATR-2100, it's very decent and doesn't pick up as much background noise as the Yeti. It's also USD 80.00 and goes on sale pretty often. I use that mic myself and feel no immediate need to upgrade.
ATR-2100/ Samson Q2u
The best portable, closed headphones are the Sennheiser HD 25-1 II which are only $175 right now. They will block out significant amounts of outside noise, and keep your music to yourself. Being professional headphones, they are very durable and can be easily repaired.
What you're asking for in a USB connection is going to require a separate DAC. That is a whole separate issue, and you can easily spend another $100 on that alone. This $24 Behringer unit would probably be the cheapest one worth trying.
Honestly, If I were in your shoes, I'd grab a BEHRINGER UCA 202 along with a Beyer Dyanmic DT 880 Pro 250 ohm, with a Schiit Vali 2
Upgrading from the DT 880 is difficult to do, as it's very neutral. You can compliment it with something like a Senn HD 650, but for less money you can just swap a Mullard Tube into your Schiit Vali 2, and then if and when you want more, you can easily upgrade the Dac, as the DT 880 will scale nicely!
The same company makes an 8" or 10" powered sub that is usually recommended with these speakers. The sub itself is around $80-$90 iirc, so it would be difficult to get something under $100 total.
Also note that these speakers require an amplifier.... which will drive your total cost up a bit.
If you need an amp, you could look at
You could always add in a cheap USB DAC (digital to analog converter) such as
To bypass your sound card (your sound card has a DAC built in, but its probably shit).
As far as needing the sub, it really depends on what kind of sound you want. I would recommend getting the 2.0 (just speakers) first, and adding a sub (bringing you to a 2.1 system) if you feel like the bass is lacking.
I have those two speakers, without a sub, and I am very pleased with them.
These speakers are frequently recommended for people looking for the best sound at a low budget.
Get a Digital Aanalog Converter.
You don't need a full blown mixer.
The easy way around this is to plug everything into a small line mixer like this one. Then everyone can happily plug/unplug their gear without interrupting the music. This is assuming there are no spare line inputs on the mixer you're using for the CDJs.
Also the S2 has RCA and TRS (1/4") outputs. No XLR.
Grab this mixer:
And two of these:
Untouched by anything less than twice the price. You will be legendary!!
tyfogob is correct, no computer needed for most mixers.
The cheapest and easiest mixer I know of is the Behringer Micromix but it only controls volume.
For a little more you can get a mixer with gain, pan, aux in, and other features. I have an Alto mixer that I got used for cheap at a Guitar Center.
My gear is easily affordable (except a few choice pieces being the studio monitors and the PC itself).
I use a Focusrite Saffire Pro 40 - Which is overkill for recording, but I have other projects that involve a lot more inputs. The Focusrite Scarlett is more than adequate for this kind of work.
For my Mic, I use a [Rode NT2A] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/R%C3%98DE-NT2AANNIV-NT2A-STUDIO-PACK/dp/B004L06ZCM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1415053266&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=) for the bulk of the recording, I have a few smaller Clip on mics for some more sensitive recording.
For my electronic audio samples, I use a [Alesis QX61] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/ALESIS-QX61-Master-keyboards-Keys/dp/B006Z6VIZO/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1415053433&amp;sr=8-7&amp;keywords=Alesis+Q) which for this kind of work is not necessary at all.
As for Software, this can get a little expensive but I've built this up over the years, I use Ableton Live 9 and a list of plugins to extensive to name, but 90% of the recorded samples have been edited very little, and if they have, the default suite plugins are more than adequate (EQ, Reverb etc).
I only really have to dig into specialist plugins when looking to create a certain effect - such as space, etc.
Take a look at the AT2020 USB mic. I bought the AT2020 plus deluxe as my first mic, and I'm loving it. Works great with windows 7.
Mic test and review of the AT2020 (not me): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w51K5fAtmhs
Of course, I'm happy to help! As for cheap mouse mats, I have this and love it. It's huge though, so you'll want to measure your desk to make sure it'll fit. If not, just about any mouse pad will do. Don't spend a whole lot of money on it (like getting one that's RGB). As for headsets, Amazon has a bunch that are great, and fairly cheap that you can look at. Personally, however, I would recommend getting a stand alone microphone like this guy and using a pair of headphones or earbuds. It might be a little more pricey overall, but I've found that most headsets are really uncomfortable for long periods of use. I splurged and bought some Bose headphones and have a standalone mic that I use. All personal preference, though. Now, for desks and chairs, I'm not sure about. I would maybe check your local Target for a desk, or IKEA if you have one nearby. I'd say the same for chairs. Don't buy a chair just because it has "gaming" in the name, either. Get a chair that you're comfortable in, who cares what it looks like?
Anyways, that's my two cents!
Being an IT professional sometimes this sub's acronyms confuse the hell out of me. That said, has he looked into a Scarlett solo? It's what I use at home. It's technically an interface, but is powered over USB and is great if you only have 1-2 inputs. It's also pretty small and could easily fit into a backpack or messenger bag (really anything with pockets). May not be exactly what he's looking for, but it sounds like it might fit the bill.
If you're willing to spend a decent chunk of money on a sound card, don't. Get an external DAC- it does the same as a sound card but is further isolated from interference in your computer. Some also have built in volume controls and mute buttons.
I use a Scarlett Solo with audiotechnica M50X headphones.
This is a good small DAC.
FiiO E10K Headphone Amplifier and DAC https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00LP3AMC2/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_Sh8FxbGKRG5TQ
And this is one which I use.
Focusrite Scarlett Solo 2nd Gen 2 in 2 Out USB Audio Interface https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01E6T56CM/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_Xi8Fxb55YAY5D
Edit: It's not worth it unless you have a good quality headphone set. I would recommend the audiotechnica M40 or M50 headphones for very good quality at low prices compared to other brands.
This is one of the best entry-level audio interfaces you can get for the money. It might seem expensive, but trust me if you buy a 30 dollar Behringer U-Phoria you're going to get some nasty static noise because those things are garbage.
With that, if you're already breaking the bank, you can get a relatively cheap microphone that will sound reasonably good compared to the snowball, and then you can upgrade later on.
Also, what do you mean by "sound like I'm in a cave"? Perhaps your issue is something else... like a poorly treated room?
Good audio interfaces (like the Scarlett Solo) have a switch to directly monitor the audio from the mic (aka, it would feed it directly back to the headphones with 0 latency). Other than that, it's 100% your mic's quality.
If you're going microphone shopping, look for condenser mics instead of dynamic ones. Dynamic mics are more suitable for live performances (on stage) since they're vastly more durable than condenser mics but they're nowhere near as accurate as condensers.
The easiest way is to get an entry level pro-audio USB interface like a Focusrite Scarlett Solo (which has a 24bit 192KHz DAC built in).
The Solo only has consumer-grade stereo RCA outputs, so a set of RCA to 1/4" (6.3mm) (TS) adapter cables in whatever length you need is all you need in addition.
Keep in mind, the JBL 305's are pro-audio studio monitors and not consumer speakers, so there isn't much in the way of upgrade-ability unless you're building a home studio with more pro equipment.
This build will be adequate for music production, although just barely. Like others have said, an outboard audio interface that connects by USB is one of the most important components for an audio production PC (definitely cut that asus xonar sound card). this focusrite Scarlett series is an immensely popular choice https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Audio-Interface-Tools/dp/B01E6T56CM/ref=sr_1_2?s=musical-instruments&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1491756709&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=audio+interface I would also recommend the behringer umc hd series as being much better value at the $99 price point (this is what I just replaced my ancient audio interface with) https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UMC404HD-BEHRINGER-U-PHORIA/dp/B00QHURLHM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1491757010&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=umc404hd The audio interface will allow you to 100% bypass the motherboards audio chipset and will provide far higher quality and much more routing options than any onboard audio chipset can claim.
I wouldn't cut anything from this parts list. If you running even a few different VST's in ableton you may come to find the mechanical drive insufficient to allow you to smooth play back of instruments. An 250-500gb SSD would be a likely future upgrade for this build that would tangibly improve performance.
Also, if an audio interface is outside your budget, I would simply wait on buying one. Depending on what your doing in Ableton you might not find it essential right off the bat. Its not like its gonna affect your warping or timestretching ;)
From what I know, good home studio headphones will cost you at least over $200. If you aren't in the music production business then I can see why you'd be going for a nice pair of budget headphones.
Sennheiser and Audio Technica are 2 brands I really enjoy. I have used the Audio Technica m50x's for over 2 years and they still hold up great. They costed me around 175 CAD but I hear great things from m40x's as well which are going for around $80 USD on amazon ( https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATH-M40x-Professional-Monitor-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR54/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=ath+m40x&qid=1554515435&s=gateway&sr=8-3 ). The price on the m40s are practically a steal right now, so they are my top recommendation.
I also know that open-ended headphones are usually best for mixing, which the m40s are not. The only reason I chose closed-ended was to prevent leakage when listening to music in public. Your preference may vary but it's something to take into consideration.
If you want a quality table from Best Buy and are willing to upgrade around it as you go, you can grab the AT LP120 for about $250 and get a set of powered speakers (which would eliminate the immediate need for a receiver). These go on sale periodically, so you could get them for cheaper. To add in the CD player you'll either have to be ok with changing your cabling when you want to switch to the CD player or get a receiver.
Mackie CR3 Studio Monitors $80@ amazon
Mackie Studio Monitor, Black w/Green Trim, 3-inch (CR3)
Mackie CR3 fit your budget
I actually just ordered the Superlux HD668B because my buddy told me they were pretty damn good. He (and some youtube videos I watched) also said it was worth spending the extra 8 dollars to buy some velour earpads and replace the standard ones.
As for a mic, I picked up the Neweer NW-700 Condenser Mic for $36. I'm not into recording my voice for videos or what not, but for the price this thing is lightyears better than the webcam mic I was using in Skype.
I know a lot of podcasters that use this cheap thing.
'Gaming' is just a term companies use to cater to people who play video games (gamers). You don't want to buy from someone like Logitech who makes mice, keyboards, webcams, desktop speakers, 'gaming' headsets, etc.
You want to buy a pair of quality headphones (not headset) from a music company like Audio-Technica (Japan), Sennheiser (Germany), AKG, Grado, Shure, Bower & Wilkins (UK) and so on. These companies (besides maybe Sennheiser) don't really advertise to gamers, so you're kind of stuck in the loop of Logitech, Corsair, HyperX, Creative, etc.
I'm not sure what kind of music you're into, so I can't make any suggestions but I can give you starter things to look into. Check out the suggestion thread over in /r/headphones. Add a standalone mic or a V-Moda Boom Mic.
Audio-Technica ATH-AD900X (also the 700X)
JBL LSR305 $89 each
These compare well with the best powered speakers in the <$500 range. Tons a professional reviews for them if you want to learn more.
> MoBo this is where I can use some help, looking at blue black models left me looking at pretty much MSI but from there the chipset selection I get lost on what would be needed
Here you're paying extra for the Z97 exclusive feature of overclocking, which you don't plan on doing. Stick to the cheaper LGA 1150 chipsets, just pick a motherboard that has the features you need. Though I'm not sure if the 'lesser' chipsets support SLI/CF in PCIe 3.0 x8 x8 configuration for both slots.
U2412M is definitely good, but some people can't live with the very grainy anti-glare coating (if you've seen it next to a normal anti-glare coating, you probably know what I'm talking about). My favorite 1920x1200 alternatives are the NEC EA244WMi and the BenQ BL2411PT. There are tons of other 21-24" alternatives, see this thread for many suggestions with links to reviews
Don't bother with those $45 pieces of trash. You may want to consider instead 'down-grading' to a 280x (not really a downgrade at the chosen gaming resolution) so that you can afford a pair of these JBL 305s (sold each) or, at the very least, M-Audio AV40s. Or you could go with passive/bookshelf speakers and an amp, but for the love of sound don't go with sub $100 garbage on such a budget.
Alright, your TV has RCA outputs and the option of fixed or variable output through there. If you wanted you could just grab two JBL LSR305 and connect them with RCA to TRS cables. Probably $450 total but would sound much better than the miccas. Go into your TV audio settings and select variable audio out. This way you can change volume through your TV remote. Just set the amp on the back of the JBL speakers to 8 or so and never touch them again.
If you want to go the passive speaker route for upgradability then you can grab a stereo receiver like this Yamaha for $200. Just plug your TV in with RCA cables. This allows you to spend an extra $100 on speakers. You'll save even more money if you look through your local listings for a used receiver. If you like the Klipsch sound you can go for these. Otherwise look through your local listing for a good tower speaker that you can afford. I was going to recommend the Pioneer FS52 but a pair of those would go over your budget. You can try pairing them with a cheap SMSL amp, but I would be worried they would distort a tad early.
The best sounding setup out of the box would be the JBL LSR305, but it's also the least upgradeable setup.
Try getting a Boom arm will take that clutter of the mic away from your keyboard.
I can add a budget USB microphone to the list which has a fantastic price-to-performance ratio.
Audio Technica ATR-2100 (comes with desktop mic stand, $34 plus free shipping)
> Once you're set and hit record, leave at least five seconds of silence before and after you speak.
This is excellent advice. The five-second tails are what we call "room tone" and are absolutely necessary for editing, and especially useful for any engineer to do noise reduction. Every environment has some ambient noise, however slight. Some are worse than others, and need to have the background noise tamed. The way it works is that the engineer selects the five dead seconds and uses it as a "noise profile" to get information on the ambient noise that exists in the recording. Armed with this profile, the engineer can apply the proper noise reduction to the rest of the recording.
I'm a singer (both lyrical and pop) and I wanna start recording myself at home. I wanna make demos and write songs (since I don't play instruments and only know the most basic music theory, I have to record). I also have a very, very limited budget (I'll get a freeware DAW). I do have a "mic": this beauty, and I wanna improve my situation, because while I'm not starting a pro studio or anything right now, I do want my voice to sound as good and accurate as possible.
My sister is in the States right now on vacation, so I can tell her what to buy me, but I have to do it soon, and I don't know what's best within my budget.
I'm overwhelmed. I don't know if I should get a USB mic (like a Samson C01, Snowball, ATR2500, Yeti, etc...), a cheap XLR mic with an icicle, or a cheap DAW interface like this with a cheap condenser. I'm not even familiar with the brands or anything, so I don't know which is better, and virtually all reviews I've seen are geared towards podcasting or things like that. What would you recommend me?
Couple things... first, add POWER to your lower register. You got very muffled and flat when you dropped down, a good example is around 0:40. Watch a few videos on budgeting your breath to help sustain you when you drop down.
You have a few pitch issues, especially around 0:30 "everybody look to your right" the everybody was off. There were a few more like that as well. A good exercise for this is arpeggios.... learn them, sing them, love them :) They will help an aspiring singer a ton.
Finally, if you're serious, and since you're putting yourself out here for critique I assume you are, go ahead an invest in a good microphone and an interface so you can record yourself better. You can do it on the cheap with something like an AT2020 and a small Focusrite for around $200'ish. It will really make a difference.
You have some uniqueness to your voice, which is what everyone looks for, and you're already taking steps to improve and learn which means you accept criticism which is crucial if you're going to do anything in music... so good for you and keep working at it!
As far as the volume for recording at, that's a good volume. I record at a level that makes me need to boost my audio by a good 30dB or so before I do any other work with it.
Buuuut... sadly, you're definitely too far away. As far as positioning it more closely, I think your best bet is going to be something like this. It's cheap, and it shows in the quality, but it works.
Neuman TLM 102 Mic --
UAD Apollo Twin Duo --
Macbook Pro --
Henge Dock --
Logic Pro X --
Squier P Bass --
Mexican Telecaster --
Martin DCPA4 --
Fender 3 Guitar Stand
Hit me with any questions.
EDIT: Mic Stand
I use a mic to an interface to my laptop, which is the standard route.
For the mic, I use an sm57 for higher volume stuff (if you ask any musician what mic they would use if they could only have one mic for general recording, 80% will say an sm57). For lower volume stuff, I use a large diaphram condenser mic (requires phantom power)
For my interface, I have an old Tascam 1800 (it has 16 inputs, I used to use it to record percussion and orchestral parts.
For software I use Cubase and Reaper. Cubase is expensive and difficult and I kind of hate it but it works really well once you figure it out. Reaper is free and fairly simple to use.
This is a fantastic less expensive interface for recording guitar
This is the Shure sm57 microphone
Link to Reaper's site
Link to Cubase's site
Best of luck!!!
The go to interface for that price range is the Focusrite Scarlett
You're going to have a few options here.
The first is obviously a headset. This is by far the easiest solution, since it's all-in-one headphones and microphone. The headphones are isolated from the mic, too, which means you don't need to worry about echo or picking up any noise otherwise coming out of your speakers.
Since you say you'd rather not wear a headset, though, that's out of the picture, I guess.
The next best option, I think, is some combination of headphones and mic (it's more of a pain in the ass to set up, since the components are separate, but it might get you a bit more quality, too). If that's not possible, I guess speakers and mic is it.
As for the microphones that you can pair with whichever sound output is your choice (speakers or headphones), you have a few options there, too.
The easiest of these are basically designed as PC peripherals that use either USB or 1/8th inch analog line in ports. Pretty much anything that comes up when you search "desktop mic" on Google will fit into this category. From general consensus, one of the best of these mics is the Blue Snowball mic. It's got very good quality and it's relatively cheap as far as high end desk mics go, and the USB format means it's usually easier to get working than the line in kind. If you want to get really fancy there are some good lapel mics out there, too, but frankly unless you're roleplaying on your tablet while walking around your house you can probably make do with a desk mic.
Beyond this stage is what might be termed "professional mics", at which point you need to become concerned with knowledge of condenser vs. diaphragm, phantom power, and audio interfaces (largely because your PC doesn't have an XLR-in port, which is the cable these microphones almost always use). This is probably somewhat above your price range and needs. If you really want I can explain more about them, though.
So now back to your specifics -
> I'd rather not wear a headset.
Headset's the easiest, but any mic paired with headphones is just as good (albeit more annoying to configure). Mic + speakers will often get you echo and unintentional pickup, but there's not much you can do about that as the end-user since echo cancellation is usually handled by the VOIP software and not your microphone.
> I'd like to be able to just talk normally and have the microphone pick up what I'm saying.
All microphones do this, since if they are turned on they are always transmitting data to your computer - including whatever you happen to say. Not all software does this, but if you configure your software of choice to pick up any noise over a given threshold (including a threshold of 'always on') you will get this effect.
> Ideally something that works in such a way that even 'push-to-talk' becomes redundant.
I'm not sure what this means. If it's important and I haven't covered it yet, please feel free to elaborate.
There's two different versions.
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Snowball-Microphone-Textured-White/dp/B000EOPQ7E - This one matches the deal.
This is the one you are referring to: https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Microphones-Snowball-Condenser-Microphone/dp/B006DIA77E
Absolutely. I have an Adobe Creative Cloud membership at a discounted rate through my college, and I'm using Premiere Pro to do the editing.
I'm using an Elgato capture card and a Blue Snowball mic. Maybe it was a bit crazy to go with this particular setup with no experience, but I really like the quality and the result. Links below!
EDIT: I found my Snowball mic at Best Buy for $49.99 -- about $9 cheaper than Amazon.
I tried using my nexus 5 with a usb-otg cable that allows charging and usb-dac/amp
it's unnecessarily complicated, and a headphone jack is the sane choice, preferably a good one like the lg v10 has.
I still sometimes buy books on cassette - some older books are only available that way. And somehow it seems more fitting to hear and old-time book with old-timey tape hiss and frequency response.
I picked up a couple old cassette decks from a thrift store and use a decent digitizer (https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA222-BEHRINGER-U-CONTROL/dp/B0023BYDHK) to record them to flac/mp3.
In fact, here's a bash script (I'm a Linux user) that I wrote to record sides of tape to flac:
cat << EOF
usage: $0 [Filename Base] [Tape Number] [Tape Side] [optional DURATION (default=60 minutes)]
Record from the ALSA hardare hw:1,0 (USB Audio) to a FLAC file.
$0 War_and_Peace 1 A (record 45 minutes to 01-A_War_and_Peace.flac)
$0 War_and_Peace 1 B 60 (record 60 minutes to 01-B_War_and_Peace.flac)
if [[ -z $1 ]]
get command line arguments
DURATION=$(( 45 60 )) # 45 minutes 60 seconds
if [[ -n $4 ]]
DURATION=$(( $4 * 60 ))
OUTFILE=$(printf %s%s-%s.flac $TAPENUM $TAPESIDE $TITLE)
avconv -f alsa -ac 2 -ar 44100 -i hw:1,0 -t $DURATION -y $OUTFILE
Of course, that's hard-coded to my audio setup (
hw:1,0in the last line).
One example of something I could only get on cassette was Asimov's The Complete Robot.
I use one of these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0023BYDHK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1394292147&amp;sr=8-1
Nothing super special, but it sounds good and gets the job done. Just use it on booth/record out of your mixer.
Low-Tech solution: http://www.amazon.com/Zoom-Handy-Portable-Digital-Recorder/dp/B003QKBVYK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463419912&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=zoom+recorder
Behringer UMC22 is US$48 on Amazon. It will do.
Behringer Uphoria UMC204HD is the best bang for the buck. If you can save some more money you can get it for US$80.
$60, plug and play (no driver fuckery that some people encounter with Scarlett), front 1/4" for headphones and rear L/R 1/4" for use as a preamp with powered speakers.
How do these compare to the audio technica ATH-m40s? Roughly the same price on Amazon.
CPU: Intel Core i5 9600K (OC'd to 4.3GHz)
GPU: GeForce RTX 2060
RAM: G.Skill Aegis 2 x 8GB 3000MHz
MOTHERBOARD: ASRock Z390 Phantom Gaming 4
PSU: Seasonic G Series 550W ATX Semi-Modular Power Supply - 80 PLUS GOLD Certified
CASE: Phantek P300
STORAGE: 480GB SSD + 250GB Samsung EVO SSD + 1TB Barracuda HDD
Links for (almost) everything
MONITORS: $230 for the Asus, $120 for the LG
MONITOR STAND: $50
CORSAIR K63 COMPACT: $45 (got it on sale)
M-AUDIO CODE 49 MIDI: $400
LOGITECH G600 MOUSE: $80
M-AUDIO ATH-M40X HEADPHONES: $140
FOCUSRITE SCARLETT SOLO AMP: $210
M-AUDIO AT2020 MICROPHONE: $140
MIC STAND: $150
IKEA DESK: $40 per stand, $30 for table top, total $110
CHAIR: $90 (crappy Walmart brand. Does the trick but wouldn't recommend)
MOUSE PAD: $20
PHILIPS HUE LIGHT: $85
AUKEY LAMP: $45
PICTURE SHELF: $15
EDIFIER R19U SPEAKERS: $35
No. You should, however, get yourself an audio interface. And even then you don't need to spend a lot of money, but it will sound far better than just connecting it through an XLR to 2.5mm or USB cable. I use this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EK1OTZC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bQLJDb5GAFJCH. It works great with my Sennheiser e835, has gain control and direct monitoring, as well as a switch for phantom power. All you really need in my opinion.
I actually got my mic setup for ~$60 including that, XLR cable, and a little tripod because I found the mic itself sitting around in my house from when my brother used to record himself playing music. Pretty satisfied!
It's your audio interface, or rather, your lack of an audio interface. Crackling in audio like you're experiencing is due to the ASIO drivers and your soundcard not being able to keep up with the bitrate to play back your audio without dropping data packets.
Audio interfaces that will fix your problem and let you play at much lower latency aren't expensive.
If you really want to spend as little as possible then you can get this Berhinger interface at just over $50, but I recommend spending the extra $20 or so and getting this Steingerb UR12. I use the 2-input version (UR22) and it's been great.
I have a $20 behringer xm8500 mic and u can get a behringer $40 usb interface and it sounds pretty good. My vod from yesterday is my first stream with this mic and it sounds the same as a $100 shure sm58
Edit: I originally had an audio technica at2020. It was too sensitive for me so I got a shure sm58 based on reviews. Then people were saying you can get this behringer mic for $80 less and it sounds the same. I did and I am happy with it.
A Samson Q2U is a good option since you mentioned breathing and keyboard noise. It's dynamic as well as both XLR and USB, so you've got both upgrade paths in the future.
If you're set on a condenser mic then the AT2020 is a great choice. I'm using one with a Behringer Q802USB mixer, but you can get a cheaper UMC22 or UM2 which will sound just as good.
edit: If you want to go with XLR and Dynamic, then I highly reccomend the Shure SM57-lc as it sounds absolutely amazing, and there is a ripoff version of it which sounds almost identical called the pdmic78 for $20, but some people say it's not as durable as the sm57 (you can run over that thing with a bus and it still works).
Personally, every time i've tried to make music on an iOS device I've given up in frustration. It might be fun for fooling around, but the interface drives me crazy and makes me want to do just about anything else. This is just my opinion maaaan.
In terms of software, I'd start out with REAPER as a DAW because you can get started right away on your gaming rig for free. It has a 60 day evaluation period, which can be extended until you are overcome by guilt. You're going to have to dig around the net for free VST virtual instruments and sounds, but they're out there. Buy a cheap USB audio interface, and a cheap mic and start working on your own music. You can record acoustic instruments, vocals, and random sounds with one of those mics. I'd find a cheap pair of open back headphones for mixing, and use whatever closed back sound isolating headphones you have lying around for monitoring while you're recording.
I think the best way to learn music production is to force yourself to produce music on the regular. To that end I'd suggest learning about songfight.org, which is an online songwriting and production contest that happens roughly every two weeks. There is nothing like a firm deadline to inspire you to create. You're given a title, and you write, record, and produce a song with that title. People on the Internet vote, and there's a winner. Folks on message boards will often give you feedback on your song so you can improve. Also there is a podcast that reviews the current batch of songs, so at the very least you're gonna get some feedback from those jerks. Disclaimer: I am one of those jerks.
I'd be remiss if I didn't mention Reddit's very own r/Gameofbands which does something similar, and might hook you up with folks to collaborate with.
Yes, you’re almost certainly missing out on a lot of quality.
The analog to digital converter (ADC) in your computer is almost certainly bargain basement hardware, if you have an out of the box PC. If you have a custom built PC with a good sound card or a Mac, this might not be the case. But you’re still going to get more noise, as you’ve already noticed, than with a dedicated piece of hardware.
With that being said, are you recording for fun? If so, who cares if you get some noise? A noise gate plugin will fix that instantly, as far as amateur/hobby grade recording goes. If you’re recording something serious, it’s probably advisable to get a decent interface.
I don’t have much experience mic’ing guitar cabs, but you might run into the issue of your signal being too high, which will cause god awful digital clipping. A dedicated usb audio interface will typically provide you with a gain/volume knob for your input signal. This is an extremely useful feature, in my experience.
If you’re just a beginner, this is a pretty good, straight forward, and very affordable option.
I would personnaly go for the Scarlett right now, because it might be a little money right now, but it's worth it (and you can always sell it used for a good price if you don't damage it). If you really must go down in your price range, simply search ''Solo Sound Card'' on google, amazon, ebay, etc. and you'll be able to find a wide range of stuff, for example
I give this out a lot. I use all of these, and they were recommended by another podcaster who uses them too.
Here is my short list. I personally have used these. I still use everything but the mic (I upgraded) Everything together is less than $125 USD. Good luck!
Mics (You get 3, so you can have others on (they will need their own mixer for this setup) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NJ2TIE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Mic Stand, pop filter https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EBDZHNQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;th=1
Sound paneling https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071VDDVHQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
These things and Audacity (which is free) will help you make a professional sound on a budget.
Here! Mackie CR series
How about some active monitors, like these?
This was the first kit I bought, for sure a good bang for your buck.
If you are using an audio interface or mixer, I would recommend buying an XLR to XLR cable to replace the XLR to AUX cable that this kit comes with.
good mic not necessary but definitely recommended. as an example of a bad mic, all of Figurehead was recorded using headphones pressed up against my face as the microphone. if you didn't know you could do that, now you do. good cans actually produce a pretty damn good recording. good cans will also have a mesh-like cover usually which doubles as a bit of a pop filter.
imo avoid USB mics unless it's all you can do, every one i've used from Blue's offerings (yeti, snowball) to M-Audio mics has had a really fucking weird frequency response and been awful about room noise no matter how much carpeting i have.
currently i use this set: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00XOXRTX6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 which requires phantom power. i have a behringer mixer for that (which i use for a bunch of other stuff as well). it kicks the ever-loving crap out of every other mic i've used, which is bizarre. i have use roland and sennheiser condenser mics and many USB mics and this one comes out right on top, especially for the price.
to reduce room noise, you can throw down a rug or blankets or even put a sock over your mic. you'd be surprised how much it helps.
play with EQing and compressing on your vocal track. a bit of a noise gate before all that can help too. i prefer it over noise reduction at this point, since noise reduction can be pretty artifacty, and if you're going to do pitch correction or other effects, that artifacting can get really noticeable really fast.
as for the best place to start: wherever you want. i just used headphones as a mic for a long time and if Figurehead is anything to go by, it'll work for most people while they get started, and will teach you a lot about EQing your recordings.
About getting an amplifier:
A power amplifier is basically a device that converts a low power signal to one that is directly fed to the drivers of a loudspeaker, otherwise you wouldn't get any sound ('mic level' and 'line level' signals are too low for loudspeakers)!
Since the B112D is a powered loudspeaker, the amplifier is included in the unit. This means you don't have to go out an buy one separately.
About getting a mixer:
A mixer is a device that takes multiple audio inputs, performs some modifications to the signal (e.g. equaliser, compressor), combines the signals, then spits it out.
You don't really need a mixer if you only have one audio source (sounds like you'll only need one since you're planning to use it for music). Even if you're hoping to mix several sources, the unit itself has individually adjustable gain settings for two discrete inputs. If you need any more than two inputs, the Behringer Xenyx 802 should suffice.
If you're hoping to get a mixer to use multiple speakers, you can simply daisy-chain the speakers together (this means you won't get any stereo separation but 1. it's a pool party, who cares and 2. you probably won't get a stereo signal anyway if you use most mixers). Plug the main input into 'Input 1', then connect your second speaker to the first by connecting an XLR cable to 'Mix Out' on the first speaker, to 'Input 1' on the second.
My advice would be to go out and buy a 3.5mm to XLR male cable, and use that to connect your phone/computer to 'Input 1' on the speaker. If you have a second set, follow the instructions for daisy-chaining above. Do that for however many speakers you have. Good luck!
I have the Dot in my study, connected via an audio mixer, into an amplified speaker. You can then use the mixer to set the level of (in this example) 4 inputs. Now, any of those inputs can play at the same time, and you can use the mixer to control the level of each input. This might be better for an amplified speaker than a stereo, but might give you some ideas.
I use one of these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Behringer-MX400-Micromix-Noise-Channel/dp/B000KGYAYQ/ref=lp_3816966031_1_6?srs=3816966031&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1523996945&amp;sr=8-6
You need a mixer to connect your gear to, and then you just connect speakers or headphones to the mixer. I have this mixer for my Volcas and small gear: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000KGYAYQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1408515182&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SY200_QL40
To get a stereo sound from it you need this $3 adapter as well http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003DBTAZ4/ref=pd_aw_sims_2?pi=SL500_SS115&amp;simLd=1
You will then also need at least three 3.5mm stereo male to 3.5mm stereo male cables, as well as 3-5 of this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000068O3T/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1408515974&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=SY200_QL40
I would definitely recommend the Rode Videomicro. If want even better, plug the Videomicro into a Zoom H1 and you'll be set!
Try closing out everything you're not using, your computer may have problems keeping up.
It could be flaky USB connection to microphone. Or flaky bluetooth.
Buy a quality microphone, The ATR2100 is going for about $40:
Go through the archives of the audacity to podcast for ideas:
Pretty sure it's not audacity. Record in the default AUP, do all your post in AUP, then File > Export to mp3 when you're completely done.
Quick and dirty: Best microphone you can afford. Record your segment. Select all of it. Then Effect > Normalize, accept defaults. File > Save Project. File > Export to whatever.mp3. Done. Will sound better than 99% of the podcasts out there already.
Buy quality microphone.
Also, "good mic" means something like the $60 ATR2100. If you already have a cheap hosting provider and can use WordPress + PowerPress, that's really all you need to create the podcast feed and deliver the MP3s (at least until you get more popular). Many podcasters record and edit in GarageBand.
We use 3 of these http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATR2100-USB-Cardioid-Dynamic-Microphone/dp/B004QJOZS4 with all of us in the same room mixed down to a Yamaha MG10-XU. It's great. The cool thing is they are USB and or XLR at the same time and a mic output as well for an amazing price. Only our most recent videos are they mixed down into a single audio input to reduce sync/echo efforts.
Audio-Technica ATR2100-USB Cardioid Dynamic USB/XLR Microphone https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B004QJOZS4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_cnU9BbA8EK7GR
get this and a cheap scissor stand. you won't regret it
If you are recording everyone in the same room, you should definitely be looking and dynamic mics instead of condenser which are going to be much better at reducing ambient noise. I also have the MXL 770, and love it, but I only use that in my studio where it's just me. For "entry level" I would look at something like:
Audio Technica ATR2100
This should be sufficient for your use case
That's almost certainly your GPU causing some interference. A cheap, surefire way to fix that would be to grab an external DAC, like the one in the UCA202.
These Swan M10's are meant to be quite good, you could use the spare cash to buy a cheap DAC.
An even better option that is very upgradeable is this selection of components for just over your budget at ~$170.
Another option is M-Audio Studiophile AV40.
Just a word of warning, try to stay away from any speakers that are marketed as for "gamers". An example of this are Logitech (although the more expensive 5.1 setups are know to be fairly good).
Which combination would you recommend?
I will use the setup at work, hence isolation and comfort are important. Nevertheless I'm not competent enough to decide myself if there's enough power for 80ohm headphones from each DAC/AMP
EMI interference is a pain. It's impossible to test all the combinations of motherboard and GPUs.
One thing you could try is moving the GPU to a different PCIE slot.
Or you could just get an external DAC, these are really good for the price and will beat most any onboard audio: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KW2YEI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I have never used those but I do use Audio-Technica ATH-M40x and they work great for me. They are tuned flat, that is what you want.
It's made to power professional headphones like https://smile.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATH-M40x-Professional-Monitor-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR54/
Mackie CR3, CR4
Or Spend some Coin n get Kanto - Quality, built in DAC, amp, sub out
Not OP but I can help you out here. Let's break this down by component:
Hope this helps. Higher quality audio equipment can be confusing and daunting, what with all the technical details, wide price ranges, parsing through all the marketing bullshit and the sometimes snobby attitudes of some "audiophiles". I wish you luck and feel free to ask me if you have any questions.
Happy Cake Day duder! Here are my suggestions!
M Audio M Track Plus
Personally, I use the UR22, mainly because I need the Midi in/out for my outboard synths, and the d-pre amps are quite nice for basic mics. I work for a music shop, and our best seller is the UR22. However, any of these interfaces would work well with FL Studio, and you would not be displeased with any of them. Let me know which one you get, dude! Cheers!
Ninja Edit - Stay away from Behringer, Gemsound, Pyle, and Pyramid. They are low cost, but have poor quality builds, poor converters, latency issues, and a myriad of other problems. Also, if you need multiple inputs and mixing capabilities down the line, I suggest these;
I commented about this in a thread about the new Razer mic... not really a big deal but here goes.
If you are looking for truly good audio, these USB mics wont cut it. It's not that they sound bad, it just bugs me that they are marketed as "studio grade," when they really are not. It is like buying a "Gaming PC," from HP.
If you plan to use it for any real content creation, you'd do yourself a favor by buying an inexpensive interface and inexpensive mic. Yeah, this option puts you over $200..... but those are two very cheap options considering that they are viable for pro audio. And they specifically are strong in features that people in this thread would use. The Focusrite Scarletts have amazing (for the price) microphone preamps, and the MXL condensers are amazing (for the price) VO mics.
Everyone in this subreddit is familiar with the price/benefit curve of buying video cards etc... this setup is probably 4x better than a USB mic at 2x the price. From here, you'd have to jump to $800 before you saw any real benefit.
If you can scrape together about 125 more Euro, I would suggest this Focusrite USB interface. It's a great little unit for the price, and if you're just getting into things, this should keep you busy for a while until you start needing more options.
I have had a fair bit of experience in the field of audio engineering, and so hopefully I don't talk out my ass when I say this but:
If this build is audio-orientated, why haven't you included a sound card or other audio interface? This kind of equipment is pretty much the most important part of your setup if you are seriously seeking to create high-fidelity recordings.
Unless you already have an external audio interface or a decent sound card that you're planning to recycle from a previous build, I would highly recommend investing in one. A mid-to-high end sound card will reduce hiss/buzz/interference and will allow you to sample audio at much higher bit-depths.
When it comes to the actual gear (as per usual) your budget dictates the hardware you should purchase, but I give some general guidelines. If you are only planning to do simple recordings (guitar + 1 or 2 vocal mics), I would go with an external soundcard like the Focusrite Scarlett 2i2. If you're interested in richer recordings of perhaps larger scale (drum kits, bands, etc), something similar to a Focusrite Clarett 8pre X or other rack gear would probably suit.
At this stage, we're talking about spending more on an interface than your actual PC, and I'm guessing you came to this sub to find computer advice. Nevertheless, I hope what wrote helps in some way. Good luck with your auditore endeavours!
I know that a lot of streamers use the audio technica microphones so here's one. There is also the Blue Yeti. In terms of budget microphones, there is the Blue Snowball and the CAD u37. You also might want to consider an audio interface as well. Here's an excellent combo, cause its awesome.
Hey guys! I know this just looks like a generic RGB battlestation. I recently just bought a house for myself, and was finally able to set up my own gaming room, and I wanted to show it off .I plan to eventually set up my VR stuff in this room somewhere. I know the photo quality sucks, but I don't own a camera, and my iPhone camera sucks.
Case - NZXT Phantom 410
Mobo - ASUS TUF SABERTOOTH Z97
CPU - i7-4790k Devil's Canyon
CPU Cooler - NZXT Kraken X42
RAM - Kingston HyperX
GPU - ASUS ROG GTX 1070
Storage - Samsung 860 PRO 1TB
Keyboard - Ducky Shine 4
Mouse - Corsair Scimitar
Headphones - Sennheiser PC 360
Microphone - Audio-Technica 2020
Audio Interface - Focusrite Scarlett Solo
Monitors - Asus VG248QE x2
If you're going to do voiceover semi-regularly to very often on even your own projects casually, it's worth doing better than the Blue Yeti or Snowball. You can get a much better sound than that if you can manage a little more cash—I'm sure you can get creative.
AT2020 ($83), Behringer B-1 ($89.95), MXL 770 ($74.99) or 990 ($87.67), or the Samson CO1 ($38 used, $62 new).
All XLR condenser microphones, which means that you also need an interface and an XLR cable. The Focusrite Scarlett is the most popular and most affordable.
Let's start from the top.
they're bothMixcraft is Windows-only (Reaper has a Mac version. Thanks for the correction @Cassinpants), and I assume you have a Mac, since you have GB.
My personal setup is:
-Electrovoice Re20 + Heil PR40
-Custom PC (i7 6700k/ Fury X/ 16Gib DDR5 RAM, Hard drives for days)
Hope this helps, for now! See you back, soon, to figure out RSS ;D
Edit: Added multiple links
As everyone else has stated, you should consider some other options what are more worthwhile, such as the M40x's.
Audio-Technica ATH-M40x Professional Monitor Headphones https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HVLUR54/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hvZfAbBEX0HJV
I've got the 50s and they're great, 40s are a step below but still have great ratings.
That's almost retail price. Are you gonna be using them for listening to music or for producing music? If you will be listening, I would suggest these instead: https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATH-M40x-Professional-Monitor-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR54/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1509968134&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=M40x
cheaper, new (not used) and better sound for simply listening to music.
Budget - $125. Really don't want to spend more than $100 unless you can convince me.
Source - Dell laptop
Requirements for Isolation - All the isolation. I don't want to hear around me, and I don't want them to hear me.
Preferred Type of Headphone - Closed. See above. I want solitude and I don't want to bother others with my music.
Preferred tonal balance - Probably can't really tell the difference in mids and highs, but I love bass.
Past headphones - Grado SR80i. Sounded great, but they're open so they didn't block out noise and everyone could hear me even at low volume, which is not what I want. Also the pads pressing against my ears for awhile hurt pretty quickly.
Preferred Music - Alternative Rock, Hip Hop, Ambient/Post Rock, Trip Hop
Misc - I tried my friend's Audio-Technica ATH-M50 and it was incredible. A little big, but I did like the coiled cable. The cable on my SR80 has gotten twisted a lot from storing it in various places. I will use these primarily for studying and occasionally watching TV or movies on my computer. I love the M50, but the price tag may be a bit too high. Should I go for the M40x or the M30x? How much "worse" is the M30x than the M50? Are there alternatives that are better for the price? Also I have Amazon Prime which is why I keep linked to Amazon haha. Saves 10-15 bucks.
B&O H6 (if you're comfortable buying used-like new / very good out of the warehouse)
are the common commuter/office recommendations.
And of course there are always the M40x 's, but many people do not find these comfortable out of the box. A pad upgrade is recommended.
Yes, and while it’s really really cheap, I find the quality to be surprisingly good when on a stand and the mic is very close to your face.
Here’s the mic I bought.
Here’s the stand I bought
Here’s a link to my voice in a YouTube video I uploaded
Not a great YouTube clip lol but it’s quiet and clear and that all I need for YouTube uploads and discord.
I just got this. I got tired of my G930 always disconnecting, so I'm going the good headphone + good microphone route.
I use it with Discord mainly, and I just up'd the threshold where it picks up sound. No push to talk necessary.
I also scooped this up. https://www.amazon.com/NEEWER-Microphone-Suspension-Scissor-Stand/dp/B00DY1F2CS
It says it's not compatible with the blue yeti, but the attachment has a converter that threads with the blue yeti. It's a little tricky to wiggle it out. So far, it's hanging fine.
Hope this helps someone.
I would stick with a USB condenser microphone. They're phenomenal as they have a built in condenser and some have built in noise reduction. That doesn't mean you shouldn't do post editing to the show (like running a condenser and noise reducer over your audio), but it helps shave a lot of post work off.
I run the XLR version of the Audio-Technicia AT2020. What I'm linking is the USB version and you may be able to find it used, or cheaper, elsewhere. It's a phenomenally powerful microphone for little cost.
If you want to go XLR, because you feel like you need to do some on the fly mixing, a Scarlet interface + the XLR version of that microphone is a great combination. You can go more advanced with a Behringer Xenyx Q802USB (what I am running), but if you're just starting out keep it simple.
Also pick up a microphone boom, pop filter, and a shock mount (that particular shock mount has a pop filter with it). Keep it off your desk and about 5-6 inches from your mouth when podcasting. You want to reduce all extra noise including mouse clicks, keyboards, or bumping your desk.
If that's too expensive, a Yeti or a Snowball are great introductory microphones. There is a reason everyone uses them. I cut my teeth on a Samson CO1U, but eventually upgraded to the AT because the sound quality is a bit better. Just...always get some kind of arm or tripod or something and keep the microphone suspended.
At the end of the day, as long as you're using some kind of condenser microphone, it doesn't really matter. Post production can help make the whole podcast sound a lot more enjoyable. Just make sure you're consistent, have decent audio quality, and are excited to podcast. I wrote up some dirty tips and tricks here if you're interested.
Increase your budget just a tad and get this: http://www.amazon.com/JBL-Professional-LSR305-Studio-Monitor/dp/B00DUKP37C
Well worth the price, especially if you're doing music production.
If you can bump up to $260 I think the JBL LSR305's are your best bet.
All you need is one of these. Fairly cheap, and you can hang your camera from it instead of the mic. Looks much better than taping your perler cam to a paper towel roll, which is what I was doing before...
That's still a condenser mic so by design it is very sensitive. You're also probably going to have to turn up the gain with it, which is where the hum comes in.
If you're not opposed to a mic with a stand/boom, then an Audio Technica 2100 is probably the best bet. It's a cardoid pattern, so it minimizes sounds coming from the sides and back of the mic and it's dynamic so it will really only pick up sounds that are a couple inches from the mic.
If you don't want anything on your desk, then an Antlion boom mic . It's uni-directional and has a physical mute switch. It positions itself close to your mouth so you don't have to turn the gain up too high.
I have an Audio Technica ATR2100-USB mic.
It's a good mic with USB and XLR ports as well as a headphone port. The XLR port allows for a mixer if you were looking into adding one into your setup, but if not, the USB port is always there. Also has a switch for if you're paranoid and like to make sure your mic is muted. Lastly, because it isn't an omnidirectional mic, it's WAY more selective with it's hearing. It mainly captures what is in front of it. Very little to nothing at all from the back and just a bit around it from close objects. Definitely doesn't capture my vacuum of a PC.
Of course worth noting that it's a condenser microphone, so not ideal for most people that don't have a proper recording room to use it in; it'll pick up any background noise very easily. The amount of people I see complaining about that after buying an expensive condenser microphone is too damn high, I've no idea why they've become so popular.
For the majority of people, dynamic microphones are far more applicable; something like the Audio-Technica ATR-2100.
Much of the weight involved in XLR is for shielding from EM interference. If you're going for a clean sound, this will work against it. Also, consumer sound cards do not have the kind of preamp that would work with larger microphones, so you would also need to get a preamp. You're better off just getting a low-cost USB audio interface or mixer.
An example would be the Behringer Xenyx 302USB (http://amzn.com/B005EHILV4). It's good enough to be both functional and portable. Granted, $80 is not exactly pocket change, but it's still two-digit.
I think the setup is definitely overkill, and you're missing out on an audio interface, which is IMHO the most important part of a setup like this. I wouldn't get the preamp at all - preamps (and especially preamps under ~$400) won't do too much to affect the sound, at least in a way that'll be noticeable when you use it for streaming. And you probably don't need a compressor either - they can be tricky to learn to use and even trickier to learn to use well. I would skip that too. If you ever need to compress something you've recorded, use Audacity. And compression shouldn't really matter if you're just streaming. And a mixer isn't really necessary for just one microphone.
But then, even if you got all of this nice equipment, everything would be ruined if you just ran it into your computer's mic jack. You should get a USB audio interface to connect your microphone and computer. I would recommend something small, like the Focusrite Scarlett 2i2. And this would remove the need for a preamp and a mixer, so all you should need then is the mic, the one long cable, and the interface. This isn't really overkill for streaming, and this will also allow you to record covers with decent quality as well.
A dac, possibly (depending on your source). An amp, definitely skip. Unless you plan on getting more detailed or power hungry cans in the near future. I'd be more worried about your source files at this point. And if you are curious about an entry level dac, the behringer uca202 is like $20-30. I still use mine to rip vinyl and connect optical to my receiver.
And black friday is just around the corner.
Mixxx's wiki about this subject
USB soundcard for master output
Use your regular headphone out on your laptop for cueing.
I use this mic for any vocals I do and I get pretty decent results for a bedroom. You can find cheaper mics than that, but make sure you get a large diaphragm condenser mic and make sure its XLR, not USB. It doesn't come with a mic stand. I learned that the hard way
You'll need an audio interface as well. That's probably the cheapest interface that's worth getting as well from what I hear.
About $250 or so for a cheaper setup, but it's a one-time purchase and the added quality is worth it I think.
Since I seem to be one of the only PC players here I decided to show what my setup is looking like.
-Intel i5-4670k @ 3.4 GHz
-AMD Radeon 7950 3GB
-8 GB RAM
-120 GB Samsung 840 EVO SSD
-1 TB WD Black
-ASROCK Z87M Pro4 Mobo
-Logitech G430 headset
-Blue Snowball White Microphone
-Asus VS248 24" 2ms
-HP W2072a Black 20" 5ms
-Razer Naga 2012
-CM Storm QuickFire Rapid, Cherry Blue switches
Any voice-oriented, directional mic should be good.. Webcam mics are notoriously bad at picking up random background noise, but some directional mics will pick up one sound really well and block everything else out. Maybe something like a Snowball Mic? I'm not super good with audio stuff. You might have to do some test runs via skype and see what works.
Just ordered mine after using a friends. It is by far one of the best.
This is just the ticket - http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Microphones-Snowball-Microphone-Textured/dp/B000EOPQ7E
I'd also suggest shooting in at least 720p.
Edit: The mic would have to be connected to a laptop, however. It's a great mic for the price.
Snoball, my friend has this one. (super clear btw)
This use to be like 20 bucks. I have this one
/r/headphones can help you out! Make a submission with some information on your preferences and you'll get recommendations you can't go wrong with.
I would recommend against a headset, especially those advertised for gaming. Usually these do not deliver great audio quality. Instead, buy a standalone or attachable mic. If you're a casual user that just needs clear VOIP, get the Zalman attachable mic. If you do recording work (commentaries, livestream, etc.), invest in something like a Blue Snowball or Blue Yeti.
You can't really record directly from the iPad to the Mac. I think you're probably going to want to look into getting a webcam. Nearly any USB webcam will work with the Mac.
This is a nice one on the cheap but not super cheap end.
You may also want to get a microphone. Many webcams like the one I just linked have one built in, but these are usually pretty low quality. You might give it a try first with the built in mic but if you want higher quality audio I recommend a nice USB mic like the Blue Snowball. Optional, but it'll make your videos sound 100% better.
All of these can be used as direct input for iMovie. iMovie is great for basic video editing and can upload your work directly to YouTube. It's great software that comes free with every Mac.
My non-gamer SO got me a Blue Snowball for voice chat. She's a professional editor for a crappy cable TV company, and it's what they use to record scratch track. It sounds fantastic.
I'm with the others in the "headphones + mic perform better than gaming headsets" camp. I've never found a headset that fits my ears as well as a proper set of cans. And you can use them with mp3 players without people giggling at your mic.
The mic I use, and one I've heard recommended a lot for a desk mic is this:
It's pretty powerful, USB, it's a bit large, but has a decent look to it imo. Lots of people use it for podcasts and whatnot. It may do.
As for a 3.5mm mic... you're pretty much looking at stuff like those logitech desk mics for $20 and stuff like that, likely not the best bet. That zalman clip-on is more or less the goto for that style, otherwise you're largely looking at USB solutions. If it's not past your budget and you don't mind the beast sitting on the desk it's your best bet.
Blue Snowball is a good start. You generally want to look at wide diaphragm condenser mics for wind instruments.
I'd recommend trying to find a good quality head set and a stand mic. Its what I am planning on doing and I thinks it's the best option. Many headphones come with a detachable mic or one that retreats into the head set as not to have an obstruction in front of your face. blue snowball this is a decently priced mic. I agree with the hyper x clouds. Seek like a solid head set. But there are multiple out there for under 100$. I'd recommend checking out pcpartpicker.com
If you're looking for a mic to clip onto your headphones, maybe take a look at [ModMic] (https://antlionaudio.com/collections/modmic)
For a separate solution, maybe the [Blue Snowball] (https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Snowball-Microphone-Textured-White/dp/B000EOPQ7E)
Thank you for the help. Also, I appreciate the feedback on the Podcast as well!
We are all on Skype and use Snowball Mics. We used to use MP3 Skype Recorder as it was free but it was buggy. We have since upgraded to Audio Hijack and edit with Audacity. There is some cleanup needed still but it has gotten easier.
Good luck on the Podcast!
I do amateur filmmaking a bit, for traveling around a Blue Snowball mic is really nice. Amazon Link Here
Really portable, quality is not bad, and if it gets fcked up no big deal fairly cheap. Don't know how easy it is for you to bring stuff when you're traveling but could be an option
love your streams regardless keep it up :)
http://www.modmic.com/ if you use headphones. Logan from Tek Syndicate has videos for them and so does LinusTechTips. i own one and love it, if you are looking for a desktop USB mic then I would say:
Blue's Snowball is an excellent mic, records anything, costs well below $100 and plugs straight into your pc. Seems like a perfect solution to me.
I am assuming you don't have anything to plug the microphone into. A SM58 requires an interface, and it's an XLR microphone.
I am guessing you are looking more for a USB microphone, and if that's the case, the Blue Snowball mic is at your price range, and pretty decent quality.
Blue Snowball microphones are phenomenal quality and $60 http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Microphones-Snowball-Microphone-Textured/dp/B000EOPQ7E
If you're gong to be doing it for YouTube or something I'd recommend saving up a bit more and picking up a Blue Snowball.
Blue snowball, one is the best mics for doing any sort is recording on a budget. I bought mine for streaming and ended up using it as a permanent desk mic for everything. If you're willing to sirens a bit more their yeti mic is about 120 bucks and probably one of the most popular microphones around for making podcasts or doing voice overs.
I plug the Chromecast Audio into the aux-in for my PC, then in Windows' Sound -> Recording -> [your sound card's aux-in] -> Properties -> Listen, flag it as "Listen to this Device"
Also confirm your levels and whatnot.
This introduces a small latency (I forget... maybe 400ms) in Windows' mixer for that input, so you may need to tweak your Google Home setup to delay the other Chromecast Audios a little bit (if you have multiple Chromecast Audios). Otherwise if it's just the one, it won't matter one bit!
Though on that note, just being in another room will necessitate a bit of latency tweaking anyway; that's just how sound works over distance.
Edit: I think using two different Sources with a normal splitter will introduce interference/noise. It's fine splitting to two outputs from one source, though. The Chromecast Audio is technically a source since it's outputting streaming audio to your speakers. The right way to combine two sources is using a mixer. Steinberg-Yamaha makes pretty good ones, but generally you can get a couple of channels mixed together at a good quality for $70-200 CAD pretty readily.
Edit 2: Here are some examples in Canada:
A small mixer: https://www.amazon.ca/Premium-5-Input-2-Bus-Preamp-British/dp/B000J5UEGQ
A USB audio device with built-in mixer/amp: https://www.amazon.ca/Steinberg-Advanced-USB-Studio-Interface/dp/B003WI3LNU/ref=sr_1_8?s=musical-instruments&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511565564&amp;sr=1-8&amp;keywords=steinberg (I use one of these for other purposes, but I don't remember it costing this much)
The 70cdr outputs line level split stereo audio on the output. First off it is not meant to drives headphones, the cheaper and less featured g1on is designed to output to headphones and thus has output volume control and a proper stereo headphone / line out combo. Your best bet is to get a cheap mixer like this https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-502-BEHRINGER-XENYX/dp/B000J5UEGQ and run the zoom into it so you get volume control and proper headphone driving capability.
I see in the comments below that you've already returned it, if you are willing to use a mixer the setup I would recommend to start would be:
Behringer Xenyx 502
RCA to 3.5mm
All this is less than $80.
A stand like this would work well, and it is still below $100.
Here is a sound sample I found on YouTube.
Once you have more money to play around with for dynamic microphones look into: Shure SM58, Shure Beta 58, and the EV ND767A. These will run you roughly $100-$150.
Once you have a use case for condenser microphones look into: AT2020, Samson C02 Pair, and MXL 770. All of these will run you roughly $100, however if you went with the Samson C02s you would need more inputs and therefore a different mixer.
What mind of mic are you using? When I first thought of getting into stuff I got a USB condenser mic (Blue Snowball) and they're terrible for lets play if your a PC gamer, especially with a mechanical keyboard. Condenser mics make quiet louder and louder stuff quieter.
If that's your issue then I suggest getting a dynamic mic. Either a USB one or preferably an XLR one and a mixer, and I can recommend several that aren't bad on the budget.
Pyle-Pro PDMIC58 with a Behringer Xenyx is what I switched to after the Snowball and was much happier.
Now I use an Audio-Technica ATR2100 and a much fancier mixer (I've also bought a 2nd of the pyle mics, and now use both of those for recording couch coop stuff with a friend).
Setup? As in equipment right? I’m pretty sure that mixer is this Behringer Xenyx 502 Premium 5-Input 2-Bus Mixer with XENYX Mic Preamp and British EQ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000J5UEGQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_I5BZCb5EM3X5V
The rest idk lol
Probably the easiest way to connect your Mic to the audio interface is with a cheap analog mixer with xlr input (for example the Behringer Xenyx 502). This will give you *way* more control over the sound from your mic, be it the input gain, the panning or the equalizer. If the signal that reaches your audio interface is shitty, no amount of tricks/filters will improve the sound.
Thanks to /r/bass I am using the following:
The latter plugs into my computer. headphones on the mixer. I can listen to click tracks or MP3s from the computer and bass all through my headphones. All in all it is cheap and gets the job done.
I have one of these and it is awesome. great sound and great build quality. it looks great on my desk as well.
Can't go wrong with a Behringer. They're specifically what I use. I originally started with console capture, having both PS3 and 360 so I sprung for the xenyx 802 for the extra channels. This is a list of their small mixers. I know a couple people(larger streamers) Running the 502usb...it seems nice. I'm using a 1622fx atm but that's big. I got it second hand at guitar center, it's fairly safe to check what they might have that's small, you might get something cheaper than online, or something better for the same price, but you ARE taking a chance.
Another option if you're going for a traditional XLR mic(since windows mixer w/ OBS/Xsplit is strong for PC gamers) you can get an audio interface. This basically is a piece of equipment that turns your XLR into a usb device. The Behringer 302usb is just an interface/small mixer that looks like it might be nice to use. There are also things like the babyface that is expensive as shit but absolutely wonderful, or the much more budget focusrite that are both solid devices. These are actually best as you're taking balanced audio directly translated into a digital signal through a device designed to eliminate interference, but they can get expensive.
Good audio costs money, but you can alleviate the cost some. Don't by a snowball...get something you can shockmount and popfilter and boom to eliminate ambient noise...that is if you don't have a good mic yet.
Is the speaker going to be using any kind of amplification in the room? If so, the easiest thing to do might be just to take a split from the live mic into a small USB audio interface. There's tons, something like this: http://www.amazon.ca/Focusrite-2i2-USB-Recording-Interface/dp/B005OZE9SA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1405700687&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=focusrite+scarlett+2i2 would be fine. If there's somebody running sound for the room, they can probably help you with a feed from their board, and maybe setting up a room mic to capture audience sound as well.
If you're all on your own, it might be a little more difficult. Is the focus entirely on one person speaking? If so, one mic close to the speaker is probably going to work best. If there's a lot of involvement from people in the room, it's trickier. You'll need to capture the audience generally to get audience questions, but you'll probably also want a mic on the speaker to put the focus there.
Really, your best bet if they want anything halfway professional is to hire a pro to deal with it.
Every interface I can think of has a 48v phantom power... And you wouldn't need to rely on RCA cables (which are unbalanced) to make it in to your DAW (your Digital Audio Workstation, the software you use to record.. i.e. Ableton, Logic, Cubase, Nuendo, Pro Tools, Reaper, etc.). For $100 you could buy a simple two channel interface with better preamps (marginally, but still better) then the Sampson you purchased that would hook directly to your PC/Mac via USB. For an extra $50 you could get something like the Scarlet 2i2 which will give you 2 solid focusrite pre's and a clean signal path into your computer.
A USB Audio interface is what you need...
Then you can either use a microphone in front of your amp, or the guitar direct into the PC and use software amp modelling (Guitar Rig, Amplitube, TH2 etc...) These all works as plugins for your DAW, Audacity/Reaper/Sonar/Pro Tools etc
A Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 is the way to go. Excellent quality at an insanely low price. Plug your amp straight into it.
Scarlett focusrite https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-2i2-GENERATION-USB-Recording/dp/B005OZE9SA
Well, I like your list. I don't know that Rode mic in particular but Lefty had two different Rode mics during PKA and they both sounded great.
I'd personally point you toward the RE20. I love mine and you don't have to be right on top of it to sound great. I also love my Shure SM7B but more than one person has mentioned to me that they can hear me breathe so I'm either going to switch back to the giant foam pop filter or to the RE20.
This package is $500 but it comes with the mic, shock mount, cable, boom, etc. http://www.amazon.com/Electro-Voice-Microphone-Shockmount-Two-Section-Broadcast/dp/B00U1S4YY4/ref=sr_1_2?s=musical-instruments&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1457378551&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=re20
I don't like your audio interface. In particular it's analog and in my experience if you turn up the gain on an analog mixer you get a hiss. It's not a subtle hiss you think you hear either, it's a real problem. (Or maybe the one I had was just extra bad?)
Anything in the scarlet focusrite series will do, this one is $100: http://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Solo-Compact-Interface/dp/B00MTXU2DG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1457378874&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=focusrite
For $150 you can get two inputs: http://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-2i2-USB-Recording-Interface/dp/B005OZE9SA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1457378874&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=focusrite
Let me know how to sound wedges do. I typically just count on curtains, shag carpet, oil painting and furniture to break up the sound.
I use this:
You'll want to get some kind of USB audio recording interface such as this:
Focusrite Scarlett 2i2
Most of these types of audio interfaces have high impedance instrument inputs built into them, so you can plug a guitar or synth directly into it.
A DI box isn't really necessary unless you are doing long cable runs, plugging into a mic input on a mixer, or have ground loop hum issues.
In regards to lightening the CPU load, this is not the case.
You can shift most of the workload to a sound card or an interface and gain a ton of slack for your CPU. You can make this upgrade *relatively* inexpensive, but you can easily get into more bells and whistles with external interfaces.
Here's a few links for some examples:
Check out this page to get a little more info on how to reduce latency issues while using Ableton for a little more help: https://help.ableton.com/hc/en-us/articles/209072289-How-to-reduce-latency
Yeah I totally agree, excet he's mentioned a new interface in the past and I have that in my shopping cart right now: [Focusrite Scarlett 2i2] (http://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-2i2-USB-Recording-Interface/dp/B005OZE9SA/)
I know he uses Logic and Reason to make his beats and if anything I want to help add something to his pool of equipment that he could capitalize on later.
It really depends on how much you want to spend and what you're planning to do with your setup.
I personally use a Rode NT2-A with a Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 interface (or you could get the Solo and save 50 bucks, but I needed two input ports) and I am pretty satisfied with my setup - I've been using both of them for a whole bunch of paid audiobooks I've done over the years, so they've paid for themselves many times over.
I started out with a Blue Yeti myself, but I decided to change it as soon as I started getting more work. It's not a bad mic, but it's not stellar. When it comes to cheaper USB mics though I'd recommend the Rode NT-USB - my NT2-A broke down over the summer and I was supposed to be recording an audiobook, so I needed a decent replacement until my main mic got repaired. It's slightly more expensive than a Blue Yeti (goes for around $170, while the Yeti is around $100), but I think it's a better quality mic. I still keep my NT-USB at home to use for smaller work that doesn't require going to the studio.
Those JBLs are meant to have a balanced input (commonly used in the pro-audio scene). Your Sonar DGX puts out an unbalanced signal (commonly used in the consumer and home theater/hifi scene). A DAC that outputs a balanced signal would take care of your interference issues. Take a look at the Focusrite Scarlett 2i2.
I recommend a Focusrite Scarlett as the audio interface based on my own experience. I am not a pro or anything.. I just record guitar/singing for my own amusement. I personally use a Scarlett 6i6, Sony MDR7510 studio headphones, and a Shure SM57 mic (which admittedly, is not ideal for recording vocals), though I ordered a Rode NT1 condenser mic just yesterday and am excited, since it should be great.
Foscusrite has a starter bundle that you could get (http://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-2i2-USB-Recording-Interface/dp/B005OZE9SA/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1452070488&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=focusrite), though I personally would not get the bundle since the mic and headphones are not the greatest.
The Scarlet 2i2 interface, some good "budget" studio monitor headphones (sony makes several for around $100), and a good "budget" condenser mic (Rode NT1 or NT1A... ~$225-$275) is what I would buy. You're looking at $400 at least. I know that sounds like a lot of cash, but if she is even remotely serious, go ahead and do it and don't buy the cheap shit, cause you'll just end up buying better stuff later anyway. After you have all that you may want to look at Reaper as the DAW instead of Audacity. It's only $60 and does a LOT... VST plugins, etc... a 60 day trial is free.
I have the same setup and use a Scarlett solo. Never had a problem, very easy to use and good looking too.
Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 (1st GENERATION) USB Recording Audio Interface https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005OZE9SA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hAyUzbGRGF014
It would probably be better than your internal sound card, but if you're really worried about sound quality, you'll need to get a proper recording interface.
I prefer Reaper to Audacity, but that's just personal preference. I find it waaaay easier to edit. It's not free, but it has a pretty much unlimited trial with no restrictions other than a box telling you to buy it when you open the program. Should you get use out of it though, you totally should buy it. It's cheap as hell for a DAW and worth every goddamned penny.
I use an Audio Technica AT2020, which should be a decent step up from your ATR2100. If you want a leap up, the Shure SM7B is one of the best mics you can get, but it requires a shitload of gain so you have to make sure you get a mixer or audio interface that can support it. Since I can't afford to get both a new mixer and a new mic, my next mic will likely be an Electro Voice RE320 dynamic microphone, which seems like a great mic for the price.
Making your audio sound better is not a cheap venture. Once you start your way down this rabbit hole, be prepared to spend a lot of money over the years on it. I'm a voice-over artist, and most of the money I make doing that goes right back into my setup. This room needs audio treatment, I need a better mic, I need better isolation, maybe a full recording booth, but god damn I could build that myself for a fraction of the cost, but will my mediocre craftsmanship be worth the savings? etc etc etc.
If you're just looking for a good setup for a podcast, an XLR AT2020 and a Focusrite Scartlett 2i2 should keep you satisfied for a while. Make sure you also get a pop filter, and good XLR cables.
Please, stop spamming other people's requests!
You cannot use a condenser mic with your motherboard. You need an audio interface with XLR input or a USB mic.
If you want a setup with a XLR Microphone, a popfilter, an audiointerface and a scissor stand $110 will not cut it at all. You need at least $250+ to get a decent setup going.
A blue yeti is actually pretty good. It's just a tad over-priced.
Maybe the Audio-Technica AT2020 Mic, with this stand?? Comes to a bit under half your budget, and ignoring the stand, completely overkill for your uses.
this little guy is pretty popular and works well. if you're plugging in a game boy you are going to absolutely want some EQ to boost the bass. the other option would be a USB audio interface for your laptop, and that is a discussion worth having depending on what your needs are, but the mixer alone will certainly suffice.
The best (and often only) way to improve your sound on no budget is to move your existing microphone closer to the source. There's no cheap way to get good audio from mics that are 10-15 feet away from the audio source.
Can you put the snowball on the boom closer to everybody? You say you're thinking about a shotgun on a stand, so it sounds like everyone is stationary. A usb extender would let you get it closer to everyone.
A shotgun might pick up everyone equally at 10-15 feet, but it isn't going to sound much better than the Snowball. If you can set it up closer, it isn't going to be good for 5 people because it's very directional, so it'll pick up one person fine and the rest will sound wrong. The Snowball Ice is directional, but has a wider pickup than a shotgun so it might work ok.
It sounds like you're doing some kind of talk show? You could get a non-Ice Snowball and set it between everyone, kind of like Rhett and Link do with their much nicer mic (A Moue by Blue).
Here are two other options that might work, but are probably bad ideas.
You could get cheap lavs on Amazon for everyone and run them into everybody's phones, though that's prone to user error.
You could get a bunch of cheap lavs and 1/4 inch adapters and find a cheap mixer like this and run that into your computer.
The best thing I have used is an isolating in ear headphone and a microphone. With this setup you can play all-out while still being at a comfortable ear volume. Not only is there no muffling/distortion like regular earplugs but you can have super sensitive, low volume, hearing depending on your mic placement.
I use a single SM57 on a mic stand over my head. Plug it into a mixer, one like this would allow you to mix in a track to play with. Then I out to a pair of Shure SE215s that have decent sound response but best feature are they isolate well and are less the $100. If you were going for this setup from scratch it would cost about $250. But isolation with input is by far the best sounding ear protection I have ever used.
You're better off getting two of these:
As well as a mixer:
You're going to need a mixer, to take the audio from the microphones and the karaoke backing track and then put out the final version (also some people sing louder than others so you'll need to be able to adjust individual volumes).
This means you'll also need an amplifier, as most TV's don't have an audio in connection.
This means you'll also need speakers.
You could look at getting some decent amplified speakers, you only need one if you're doing this in a home.
Lastly, look into something like Karafun initially as the software. You can take out a 48 hour subscription for about £5 and then you have access to all their songs.Just read about no internet at farm, not even wireless data that you can tether via mobile phone?
So to recap, you need to purchase:
Software, look at Karafun, it's likely to do what you need and has all the songs
Random question, I gather you're UK based, are you anywhere near London?
Hey there dude,
You're going to want a mixer for that. The quality of audio going from audio out on one pc to mic in on the other will sound terrible, and most likely cause some ground noise loop problems.
If you're not looking to spend any money, I would recommend checking out NDI. It's an OBS plugin that would allow you to send your game video and audio over to your streaming PC over a wired network connection. As long as both your PC's are hardwired to your network, you're good.
Here is a permalink to another thread where I explain how NDI works, and how you can learn about it. In this thread i'm talking about VR, but the process would be the same, just capturing normal game play instead of VR.
Alternatively, you could spend as little at $60 on a mixer to make what you need happen, if you decide to go that route. Good luck!
If on a budget:
I like the Behringer q802usb for a mixer $65
2 ATR 2100 Mics $80 a piece
If you want to spend more on a mic that won't pick up as much noise:
Sennheiser E835 Dynamic Cardioid Vocal Microphone $100 a piece - but doesn't come with stand or pop filter...
Audio-Technica ATH-M30x Headphones to monitor sound or edit. $70
If you want your partner to have headphones, you will need a headphone amp $25 and chord $7
If you have any questions I have a Facebook Group for beginners: Podcasting Made Simple
I wish someone would have given me this list when I started. For about $360 the list below gives you everything you need. I highly recommend against recording on your phone. There is also a lot of great free software out there for recording video for both PC and Mac. I use XSplit personally, even if I'm not streaming. You could probably find the light set without the green screen for a little cheaper if you want, but I wouldn't go any cheaper on the microphones, soundboard or webcam. With all this you'll have a semi-professional setup at an affordable budget.
2x Microphones ($70) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XOXRTX6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
2x Microphone XLR Cables ($20) https://www.amazon.com/XLR-Microphone-Cable-Feet-Female/dp/B06XC6435F/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503965340&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=xlr+male+to+female&amp;psc=1
1 USB Mixer ($60) https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-802-Premium-8-Input-Preamps/dp/B000J5XS3C/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503964969&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=xenyx
Light Set ($150) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019GTCNXC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Webcam ($60) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006JH8T3S/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Hola! I set all this up last year so it’s a bit rusty!
This is a shopping list for an Xbox One mixer setup similar to mine and you may need some help filling in a few gaps and the wiring!
So the idea is to build a setup to be able to use an awesome mic to talk to the stream as well as party chat ‘at the same time’ (which I prefer over using a headset) but to also be able to hear game/chat/PC audio though a single pair of headphones and control their volume levels in one place with ease.
I don't need sound going out to my PC as the Cap card is getting that from the Console via HDMI.
Streaming Xbox to PC then the WORLD!
Xbox – hdmi into a cap card in the PC Avermedia live gamer hd
This grabs the game audio and that’s that bit done, stream using OBS and boom!
Here's is my shopping list for party chat:
Headset Buddy (Real name, I didn’t make that up!)
Xbox Chat Thing:
Cable from Buddy to Mixer:
Cable from Mixer to Buddy!
Astro Mixamp (I use)
Earforce DSS (an option!)
Ground Loop things:
Although I have used these ones because I didn’t see the ones above!
Mic wise any XLR mic is fine!
Here is a link to a image i found that kinda helps piece it all together! http://imgur.com/UYaQQUZ
Here is a quick vid of my setup, happy to help if i can! http://www.twitch.tv/drunkiemunkie/v/26306849
Heres is my latest Xbox One vid with party chat but it picks up the Public Lobby if they speak!
A small mixer will do the trick and it also gives you the chance to adjust the volumes of iPad and synth independently.
You could use a basic DJ-mixer (something like this) or a simple studio mixer like this.
I got this one for the same purpose (without realising the speakers I was trying to connect had an auto-sleep function sigh) but the mixer seems great quality and I've kept it around because it might be handy in future.
Apologies for the UK link if you are from elsewhere. You should be able to find the same item on your local store though. As mentioned you'll want to get some 3.5mm-1/4" adapters as well though.
I have a tiny mixer from Behringer. Run the output from the amp and your laptop each into one of the inputs, and then your headphones into the output. You'll need a male-male 1/8 cable and 1/8->1/4 inch adapter to plug in your laptop.
Having said that, the suggestion from /u/ChuckEye is simpler, plus you would also have something in the end that would allow you to record yourself.
If you want multiple sound sources to play at the same time, you'll need some kind of mixer before the SMSL amplifier.
That could be a software mixer on the PC (take the 3.5 mm output from the Dot and connect that to line-in).
That could be a simple hardware mixer.
Or you could install Alexa on your PC and not worry about the gadget.
I used the older version of this for a while, and while it's not the greatest sound quality, it works and isn't too much money. It has the ability to plug into your computer so you can record.
No experience with this one, but it has decent reviews, is cheap, and would work for what you need with a little room to expand but no USB implementation.
And this is the one I'm currently using and really like. A lot of room to expand here. It has built in effects, but I don't think they sound very good. No USB either, but it's pretty cheap for what you're getting.
Take a look at the inputs on whichever one you decide on, as they may required some adapters (1/8" Stereo to 1/4" dual mono, etc...) to work with your setup. Let me know if you have any other questions.
You are on the money - syncing the two instruments means getting them to play in the same tempo. If you're looking for a quick, cheap mixer, I use one of these and it works just fine.
Thank you for the reply.
Do you think these cheap Behringer MX400 and Behringer HA400 will do the job for band practice?
The only problem is that I have a very convenient record function on my drum module that records the mix in and the drums to a wav file on a SD card, by plugging everything to the mixer I lose this function so maybe I should wire like that:
Bass + Guitar -> MX400 -> Drum module -> HA400 -> headphones.
That way I can record easily while jamming, what do you think?
You need a mixer to combine the two signals.
This mixer combined with these adapters should work.
This USB DAC will give you the best bang for your buck until you want to drop big money on stuff. I've been using mine for about 6 months now, and really dig the quality. It's also great for using headphones (if they don't need a dedicated amp), since it's a much higher quality than your typical pc headphone jack. Soundcard's aren't really worth the money, IMO, unless you're gonna try setting up a 7.1 system or something. But with your current setup, the USB DAC -> RCA output -> receiver -> speakers should be solid.
Also, check into building some monitor stands, or stacking some books up to set them on. Getting the tweeters around ear level makes a big difference in the sound at your listening position.
Placement makes a big difference. /u/zeospantera has some nice guides on setup, often referring to this diagram he's drawn up of the suggested placement for a 2.0 system. You can also play around here with different recommendations from around the web with a good visual.
Something like this? https://www.amazon.co.uk/UM2-U-Phoria-USB-Audio-Interface/dp/B00EK1OTZC
That little mixer doesn't have a USB out, so you'd have to go with this little box in stead.
The XM8500 is an alright mic for the $20 price tag, but don't expect too much. To be honest you might be a lot happier with a cheap condenser + pop filter.
I've used both mics when I was starting out. I'd only use the xm8500 in the rehearsal space where the quality doesn't matter. The condenser will sound 'nicer' (i.e. less disappointing when you're trying something for the first time)
I wouldn't call it a 'decent' setup, but should be fun to dick around with for $100.
You need an amplification system of some kind. One very cheap way to go about it is to get a cheap USB interface like this one and to use your computer as an amp sim. On top of that you'll just need a pair of studio headphones (I strongly recommend these) and of course a cable. Total under 50 murrican bucks. Cheap, portable and highly versatile setup. Main downsides are that it can be very difficult to get working for a beginner (especially on Windows) and, well, you need to be wearing headphones unless/until you get decent monitoring speakers.
Of course if you can afford an actual combo amplifier you should get one. Even this is far better than nothing. Same price range. Problem with ultra cheap gear is that you will with 100% certainty want to replace it at some point.
Do not play electric bass unamplified. You will teach yourself to play way too hard in order to be audible, and will miss out on some crucial skills like control over dynamics and tone.
You can buy a decent enough audio interface on Amazon for about $30.
You can afford to cheap out pretty much everywhere.
Get these first:
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UMC202HD-BEHRINGER-U-PHORIA-2-Channel/dp/B00EK1OTZC?th=1 Audio interface for $40
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Ultravoice-Dynamic-Microphone-Cardioid/dp/B0002KZAKS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=behringer+dynamic+mic&amp;qid=1555465176&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3 Microphone for $20
Get the cheapest mic stand and xlr cable you can find to go with them.
Use your phone camera (if your phone is actually serviceable and you want to appear in your vids). If not, a decent enough camera to start are the Logitech 1080p hd webcams which go as low as like $40. You can also get good used interchangeable lens cameras for like $200-300 or a new entry level one for $500, if you want to spend some money.
'Procure' a good video editing program in a '''non ethical''' manner (search for 'Vegas 14')
Download Audacity for editing audio (free)
What kind of computer are you using to record your gameplay with?
For audio, a cheap dynamic mic would be a great way to go. It might not sound great initially, but a lot of those problems can be solved easily with software--Audacity is free and easy to use, and makes our recordings sound much better despite the mic's problems. You'll also need an XLR cable to go with it--preferably XLR male to female, but you can also find an XLR to USB one if you want to connect it directly to your PC. Otherwise, you'll need an audio interface to go with it. As for mic stands, I've honestly never had a problem with this one. It's not as easy to maneuver as the 100 dollar one, but it should serve your needs as a beginer.
If you're recording multiple people, you could get the Blue Yeti--a lot of people swear by it--but it's also a lot more expensive and it picks up everything if you're not careful. A lot of people think that the Yeti is cruise control for great audio, but it really doesn't do much more than a cheap mic can. I would just recommend having an audio interface that connects at least two microphones and then buying another dynamic mic instead.
As for recording your Switch, the standard is the Elgato. I'm currently using the HD60 model, which is nice, but it has some latency issues (meaning you'll need to manually sync your audio with your video). The HD60s has no latency problems, but it's a bit more expensive.
You need a USB audio interface with phantom power to get the most out of it. The total still comes out to less than the Yeti.
Blue make the most overpriced pieces of garbage in audio at the moment. They're designed to look great on webcam and fit the asthetic of your iMac, but really they're filled with the cheapest parts possible.
It's designed to look like a large-diaphragm condenser mic. Great, right? Perfect for VO. Well, what's actually inside are three cheap-ass capsules similar to what you'd get in a gaming headset.
For $150 it's a total rip off. If it cost $30 and wasn't marketed as a 'professional' product, it might be worth picking up; but you can do a lot better for the money.
Here's a complete ~$125 USB recording setup that has a proper large-diaphragm microphone that will eaisly give 10 times the quality that anything Blue offers:
You said that you were using Line In to your computer, right? If so, that's what is causing the latency. Unfortunately, your best solution is getting a USB audio interface like the $30 Behringer UM2.
Hey man, I'm gonna go against the grain here. I just spend $50 on one of these and I love it.
I'm a begginer so I don't really know exactly what I need or want yet. So far that thing has covered all my needs and you'll have an extra $100 to spend on other cool stuff. I do play acoustic mostly, but when I use the electric I just use line in from the amp to the interface. No PC effects required.
Behringer UMC22 + MXL BCD-1 dynamic mic
Hello! I have a noob question for my setup that probably isn't relevant enough to warrant its own post but it might be simple enough that you could answer real quick.
I just bought these studio monitors:
https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-CR-CR3-Reference-Multimedia/dp/B00KVEIY4E and have the top left L and R inputs connected to my Scarlett 2i4 audio interface (https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-2i4-USB-Interface/dp/B009B15N0Q) in the balanced inputs 1 and 2 on the back right with TRS cables, but now I don't know what to do to actually be able to get my computer to "recognize" them and use them in my DAW or otherwise be able to control them through my audio interface. The monitors themselves work fine because I can still use them with the auxiliary cable plugged directly into my laptop, but that is a temporary fix because then I can't use my audio interface to control them. No idea what to do and I feel so dumb!
Any help would be huge. I'm using a PC with Windows 10 and my DAW is Reason 10 if that helps at all. Thanks!
I just bought these from Amazon, but don't have them at my place yet so I can't give a full review, but they are the top seller on Amazon and seem to fit what you're looking for.
It really just has the problem of being way to expensive for quality it outputs. It's pretty much at the price point where a cheap xlr mic + usb mixer is way better, and oh dear fucking lord if you're planning to record while using the keyboard. That shockmount is way to expensive. Your only alternative is the second shock mount for 50$
If you're using it for recording while using the keyboard or voice chat while using the keyboard you want a shock mount. So it really becomes 150-180$ Setup vs
XLR to XLR cable is around 10-15$
that goes to 128$ but you can upgrade the mic later on.
if she will be gaming on a Wii u you will need a capture card or a capture device that plug in via usb.
I recommend a good webcam like a Logitech HD C310 or Logitec HD C920
for a mic I would recommend a good dedicated mic, something like this or if you want your kiddo to feel like a professional streamer without breaking the bank, then [this](https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Professional-Broadcasting-Microphone-Adjustable/dp/B00XOXRTX6/ref=sr_1_8?
Other then that, I would suggest grabbing the open broadcasting software to use to record her videos.
Yeah I don't think that's gonna happen, man. :/
To get a decent mic on a headset for my wife we had to spend $170 for a Sennheiser Game One, and trust me, that was the absolute cheapest for a decent mic for recording when she guests on my videos or does her own.
Good luck but holy hell mate. For forty bucks best you're gonna get in a headset is a tin can and a waxed string.
If you can somehow get your hands on a decent pair of headphones, a Neewer NW-700 bundle (boom arm, USB condenser mic and pop filter) is $34 on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XOXRTX6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_OTcwzbDDAJBNQ
Here's what I got:
That's the best I can do for the electrical hardware without going over too much. I could try to see what I can do to find a desk and a chair, but you'll most likely be hitting $700 and over.
Currently what I have here is $522 with the current sales in place.
I went looking for a $60 headset and couldn't find one (I was converting prices since I'm in the UK and it didn't really work)
Those headphones look really nice for the price, After reading up on them they lack bass which makes them pretty good for gaming. This is because explosions will be less prevalent making it easier to hear footsteps. The downside is they won't be terribly good for music unless you like your music without much bass.
The other thing to take note of is that they are open back. (If you don't know what open back means keep reading) See how In the picture there is only mesh coving the outside of the headphones. This means that they will leak sound like the titanic leaks water. It'll be like you're wearing mini speakers on your head to anyone around you.
The good thing about them being open back is that they will have a nice open soundstage making it easier to pinpoint where sounds are coming from, I don't have to tell you why that's a godsend in R6S (this also applies to music, it's kinda cool really)
More opinions about the headphone that are worth reading.
I was going to suggest getting a mod mic but I'm not really sure they would work with
mini speakersopen back headphones since you would get really bad feedback. You would probably want a desk mic.
I own a Blus snowball. I fucking hate it's but it still regarded on one of the better USB mics you can get
Get a desktop mic instead.
This will give better quality than any headset you can buy below $200.
Headset microphones are atrocious pretty much across the board due to the incredibly limiting dimensions normally required.
With a real mic you and your teammates/friends will have a much better experience. Clearer audio with better leveling and it will probably outlive your PC.
Even a cheap one will be 10x better, and if you ever want to foray into youtube/podcasts/twitch you've got the equipment.
Then, when your headset dies death buy some good headphones without a mic. Before you know it you've better quality equipment at a lower price.
I mean obviously im not the only one thinking this based on the comments or upvotes, a simple $50 [mic] (https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Microphones-Snowball-Black-iCE/dp/B014PYGTUQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467786315&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=blue+snowball+microphones) that isnt by your headset or speakers, or using push-to-talk would be simple fixes for most of those problems, also i appreciate the insults, its really showing me that you're trying to make a better platform that when you get simple criticism that you go there, if you want to get more likes and views, the simple fixes help, otherwise dont talk about lack of support when you attack the audience
I love your voice and your video style. You really need to invest in a better audio setup, though. It sounds like youre 15 feet away from the mic.
Near professional quality audio is very simple and essentially plug and play these days. Well under 100 bucks can get you a decent mic, boom stand and pop filter. A good mic example: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Blue-Microphones-Snowball-iCE-Microphone/dp/B014PYGTUQ/
THIRTY SEVEN DOLLARS ON SALE??
No! Do yourself a favor and get either this
or if you have less room, this instead.
You don't need to get super fancy (especially starting off). If you're audio sounds like a phone call, that's going to be an issue that will deter listeners. But mediocre audio quality will not hinder your growth, bad content will.
A few recommendations:
This works great as a portable mic: https://www.amazon.com/Samson-Mic-Portable-Condenser-Microphone/dp/B001R76D42/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498145879&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=samson+clip
I also used this to clip onto my headphones before: https://www.amazon.com/Zalman-Zm-Mic1-Sensitivity-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B00029MTMQ/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498145910&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=clip+mic
I've heard good things about the Snowball but I've never used it: https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Snowball-iCE-Condenser-Microphone/dp/B014PYGTUQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498146044&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=mic
If you want an actual mic, this is the cheap mic I buy all my cohosts. It sounds perfectly fine. I've been using it for over 2 years now: https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATR2100-USB-Cardioid-Dynamic-Microphone/dp/B004QJOZS4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498146015&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=atr-2100
You don't need a mixer. Instead, I would use zencastr to record the audio. It has a free version but I pay for the unlimited one ($12).
Otherwise, you can just record your own individual audio with Audacity which is free and GREAT!
If you really need good quality audio for that price point, I would suggest you look into something that has a detachable cable. The audio technica ATH_M40x headphones are a great option. Then you can add on a Modmic that attaches to the headphones or even get a Blue snowball standalone microphone.
Audio Technica ATH-M40X - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Audio-Technica-ATH-M40X-Professional-Headphones-Black/dp/B00HVLUR54/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1549866398&sr=8-4&keywords=audio+technica
Antilon Mod Mic - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Antlion-Audio-ModMic-Attachable-Microphone-Uni-Directional-Mute/dp/B00R98JVVU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1549866832&sr=8-2&keywords=modmic
Blue Snowball Mic - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Blue-Microphones-Snowball-iCE-Microphone/dp/B006DIA77E/ref=sr_1_5?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1549866907&sr=1-5&keywords=blue+snowball
The problem with the design of the PSVR is that although you really want a set of closed over-ear headphones like the Audio Technica M40x, they tend to not exactly fit underneath the strap quite perfectly if you have a fat head (like mine) or if you use thick replacement ear cups for better sound quality. Sure things sound amazing and immersive but it's not exactly the most comfortable option.
I've also tried Phillips SHP9500s which sound amazing (especially for their price) but again, you'll run into a situation where it might not fit perfectly tucked under the head band of the PSVR headset. These actually work well for me, but not so much for my son. The only complaint I have with them is that they are open headphones so I hear the outside world extremely easily.
Honestly, unless you're swapping the PSVR around frequently, I would say that a good set of ear-buds are going to be your best bet for isolating and giving you quality sound while not being too uncomfortable. Unless you just hate earbuds.
Found this link through an older slick deals page, seems to be only through this link and is not searchable through the website. Took 4 days to process, but my headphones shipped today.
~~EDIT: Amazon is dropping them panties as well
Look at Audio Technica M40x's.
ATH-M40X or ATH-M50X
Out of the box they are SUPER firm on your head, which makes them extremely uncomfortable after an hour or so, but for shorter demos they'll do an excellent job of blocking out outside sound while also sounding absolutely amazing inside the headphone. The ...'leather' (idk what it actually is, maybe leather?) that the ear muffs are made from would easily be cleaned with alcohol wipes, in case someone is worried about ear germs.
If you plan on giving longer demos, the 'tension' (ear-pressure) mechanism is in the head band. It's just a spring-steel bar. Bend it backwards (GENTLY! Small bends; nudge it till you get it right) will take the bite out of the headphones. They won't clamp as hard, but they'll be more comfortable long term.
Audio Technica AD500x(114$) - Open Back Headphones
Audio Technica AD700x(144$) - Open Back Headphones
Audio Technica M40x(129$) - Closed Back
The difference between open back and close back is that open back headphones have the advantage of having better positional audioBut the disadvantage of typically lower bass quantity(although more accurate) and you can hear people around you(irl). The AD500x and AD700x are probably some of the
best headphones for positional audio at 150$ and below except for the that are a bit more expensive 144$. They also have good higher frequencies meaning that you'll be able to hear footsteps behind you
Where the enemy that shoots at you is located etc.
Closed backs on the other hand typically has a more punchy bass(low end frequencies) but at the sacrifice of positional audio.
I am sure there are others around that has good alternatives here as well, but those are my picks in that price range.
Compare to https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00HVLUR54/ref=pe_3034960_233709270_TE_item ?
A better combo would be a mic and headphones. Here's a good mix.
For gaming he may prefer a closed sound stage.
The ATH-M40X's at $64.99 are a pretty good deal in this price range.
I use the Mackie Studio Montier 3 inch. Perfect compact size with a great range for sound
What about these?
80Hz low freq cut off so probably not awesome, but that fits with the $100 budget.
Not OP, but I think they are the Mackie CR Series CR3 - 3" Creative Reference Multimedia Monitors (Pair) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KVEIY4E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_h.C0xbPGBPA5P.
5" Swans D1010-iv for $139 would be near the top of my list. Nicer fit and finish than the Miccas, more grown up looking than the Mackie's and basically everything Edifier makes is just a Swans clone anyway.
What's your budget? If you've got Amazon, the Amazon Basics speakers will do for a pinch. https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Powered-Computer-Speakers-A100/dp/B00GHY5F3K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480363997&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=amazonbasics+speaker If your budget is a little higher, I'd suggest these. The sound is meant to be true to what you're working with, so what you're putting out in audio is what you'll hear. https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-CR-CR3-Reference-Multimedia/dp/B00KVEIY4E/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480363965&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=studio+monitors
Given your budget and space available I have a suggestion and it isn't surround sound. Reason being is that doing it well is expensive and doing it cheap just makes it inferior to a well setup system with fewer speakers.
Small studio monitors + a dedicated 10" subwoofer. Good amounts of detail, a night and day difference vs what you have now. You will need a 3.5mm output, split into RCA lines. You will then need to split said RCA lines and run one set to the subwoofer and another to the studio monitors.
The other replies here are good suggestions, but everyone is suggesting new lenses. Personally for someone starting out I would suggest crawling craigslist or KEH for some used nikon or super-takumar lenses. You'd have to buy an adaptor ring but even with this you can get two or three solid lenses for the cost of one new one.
There would be no automatic/electronic components meaning you would have to do everything manually, but if you are interested in getting into cinematography this is good as it forces you to learn how lenses work and what looks best.
Audio is best recorded separately, but in a pinch having a mic that attaches to your camera is better than nothing. I would suggest a Rode Videomic as they can be used with a small external recorder or your new camera.
Lighting equipment is expensive, but a DIY set can provide great results on a budget. Some wax paper, PVC, and work lights from Home Depot can look good if used correctly.
Audio is recorded separately.
For voice recording probably the easiest would be to have one of those Sena headsets in your helmet.
When I did motovlogging I had a cheap lecture recorder and taped a lapel mic in to my helmet.
For just exhaust notes you would want something like the Zoom H1 wrapped up in foam and shoved under the seat. Sync audio with your horn or a hand clap.
Well, you don't have to multitrack – there are plenty of devices which record a single mono or stereo signal. You just won't be able to modify the mix after recording – i.e., whatever you hear while you're playing will be what the recorded track sounds like.
One drawback of this single-track approach: since you only have two hands, it would be difficult to perform and mix at the same time. So you would either need to sequence (at least some of) your instruments (to free up your hands for mixing duties), or you would have to forgo complex mixing (i.e., you would need to set the levels and EQ on the mixer before recording, and leave them more-or-less alone for the duration of the track).
There are many portable, non-multitrack digital recorders such as the Zoom H1 or the Tascam DR-05. Many of them have built-in microphones (meant for field recording), so you'd be getting two pieces of gear in one.
If you're really trying to keep costs down, you could buy an old cassette deck at a secondhand shop, and use that. The Behringer 1202 has RCA inputs and outputs, so that would be pretty simple to set up. Cassette is noisy, but some people embrace its retro / lo-fi sound. (But you would still need some kind of audio interface to get the finished recordings into your computer.)
But: full-fledged multitrack recorders don't have to be expensive. This looks like a decent option – and it doesn't cost much more than the single-track recorders linked above.
Also, if you don't mind older and somewhat clunkier tech, secondhand multitrackers can be quite cheap. Here's a Roland VS-880 for US$80 (plus shipping). (Just don't expect it to play well with modern computers, at least not without a fight.)
Really, though – since you already have a computer, I would start by using that for recording. At least until you've gotten comfortable with your mixer.
ETA: you have not asked any stupid questions :)
Lost my comment somehow ... anyway: Zoom H1 might fit your bill:
$100 and pretty low-tech, but high audio quality.
The H1 zoom is the best. You can stick it on a little tripod and leave it wherever. Definitely within your budget too.
Hi /u/saientific - the Zoom H4n has noisy preamplifiers - if you decide to go with a Zoom, you may want to consider the [£229 Zoom H5] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&amp;pub=5575034783&amp;toolid=10001&amp;campid=5337235943&amp;customid=&amp;icep_item=181460355481&amp;ipn=psmain&amp;icep_vectorid=229508&amp;kwid=902099&amp;mtid=824&amp;kw=lg) instead.
If budget is an issue, you may want to consider the less expensive [£69 Zoom H1] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B003QKBVYK/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1634&amp;creative=19450&amp;creativeASIN=B003QKBVYK&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=hybrcamerevo-21). This recorder has a single 3.5mm mic input instead of the more expensive recorders' twin XLR inputs, so you will need a [£22.91 Hosa MIT-156 XLR to 3.5mm transformer/adapter] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00FC4YR58/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1634&amp;creative=19450&amp;creativeASIN=B00FC4YR58&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=hybrcamerevo-21) in order to accept input from professional mics such as the [£148 Rode NTG-2 shotgun mic] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00093ESSI/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1634&amp;creative=19450&amp;creativeASIN=B00093ESSI&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=hybrcamerevo-21).
No matter which recorder you buy, you should also invest in a set of [£69 Sony MDR7506 monitoring headphones] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000AJIF4E/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1634&amp;creative=19450&amp;creativeASIN=B000AJIF4E&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=hybrcamerevo-21) to prevent surprises in the editing suite.
With your recorder, headphones, shotgun, a [£9 shock mount] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00KXQIY86/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1634&amp;creative=19450&amp;creativeASIN=B00KXQIY86&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=hybrcamerevo-21), a [£69 Rode boom pole] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00139PYEY/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1634&amp;creative=19450&amp;creativeASIN=B00139PYEY&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=hybrcamerevo-21) and good technique you will be able to get the microphone to within a meter of your actors/interviewees and record high quality sound.
Hope this is helpful and best of luck with your venture into videography!
With the Rebel T6, there is no way to connect a microphone, regardless of whether it is wired or wireless. What you can do is use something like an external audio recorder. If you just want to use the audio recorder with its own microphone or with a 3.5mm microphone input, you can get a Zoom H1. If you also require the use of an XLR microphone, you would need a Zoom H4n. Both of these devices can be used with or without an external microphone (they have built in microphones that are better than the camera's). But, you WILL have to sync the audio in POST. The audio will be recorded completely separate from the camera and there is absolutely no way to connect them while recording, but it's easy to do in editing software after.
The good 'ol ATR2100 is damn good, and is both USB and XLR. It's also dynamic, so that's great.
I used a Yeti for the first few years of my channel. I loved it and got great results from it, however the background noise was a bit too much so I knew eventually I'd want to switch to a dynamic (or at least a much better condenser).
My suggestion to people is to get an ATR2100 ($64) to start with as a USB microphone. Then, when you've saved up money and decided to go the next step, purchase a USB mixer (I have this one ($80), or you could use this one ($60) which is only one channel and cheaper). There's a noticeable difference between the USB and XLR interfaces of the ATR2100. Some people even like the USB better, I don't, but then again I'm adding EQ and compression through the mixer which for me yields better results than software effects.
My personal reccomendation for a microphone http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATR2100-USB-Cardioid-Dynamic-Microphone/dp/B004QJOZS4 iv used it for a while and its pretty amazing.
Don't use a condenser mic. Use a cardioid dynamic mic.
Edit: here's a link to a USB one Audio-Technica ATR2100-USB Cardioid Dynamic USB/XLR Microphone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004QJOZS4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_UyAAxbEC7CJ45
Audacity works well and is free. Audio Hijack Pro is what I've used in the past if you feel like getting fancy. Pick up a cheap desktop mic or a slightly nicer mic and get to recording.
It's a condenser. Most Dynamics require XLR input and a separate audio interface, but recently there are ones that use USB.
You might want something like this Audiotechnica Dynamic Mic + USB interface built in or this microphone by Samson
If it's just you and your buddy and you aren't doing any Skype call-ins, and you guys can both be in the same room all you'll need is...
ENTRY/BASIC: https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATR2100-USB-Cardioid-Dynamic-Microphone/dp/B004QJOZS4/ - $64.00 American - $128 total.
Intermediate: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/356521-REG/Audio_Technica_AT2020_AT2020_Condenser_Microphone.html - $99.00 American - $200 total.
Two XLR cables: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JNLTTKS/ - $5.99 American - $12.00 total.
One XLR-to-USB setup: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CTKI45M/ - $99.00 American
Two Scissor Arms: https://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-Microphone-Suspension-Broadcasting-Voice-Over/dp/B00DY1F2CS/ - $12.99 American - $26.00 total
Two Pop Filters: https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Studio-Microphone-Filter-Shield/dp/B00ACFAULC/ - $6.95 American each - $14.00 total.
A DAW: Audacity - Free - https://www.audacityteam.org/download/
TOTAL BASIC COST: $280-355 American
If you need to do a Skype call Mix-Minus it will cost an extra $20-50 depending on how you would like to do it.
Audio-Technica ATR2100-USB Cardioid Dynamic USB/XLR Microphone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004QJOZS4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-gWZAbZ477PW5
a cardioid pattern will help your situation, but condenser mics like the Snowball and AT2020 are very sensitive and designed to pick up every little sound. if your primary concern is eliminating background noise, you should be looking for a dynamic mic like the ATR2100. cardioid dynamic mics only pick up sound that's directly in front of them.
I did some testing with multiple USB microphones and was able to setup a virtual audio device in Mac OS and Windows. They were different microphones, but I would assume if they were the same make/model it would have worked as well. The quality was okay, but you've got a lot of room for interference and bandwidth issues on the USB bus doing it this way. What I did and what I recommend you do is move to XLR microphones and a USB audio interface. I have the Scarlett 2i2 but for more than 2 XLR inputs you'd need to upgrade to a 4 or 8 port version. This Behringer 4-port interface is only about $129. Then you'd just need 3 XLR microphones, I have the MXL 770 which goes on sale pretty regularly for about $65. The Audio-Technica AT2020 is also a great choice under $100. The ATR2100 is also a surprisingly good podcasting mic and has both XLR and USB output.
Something like this, this, or this will do better than most for under $100. If you keep searching look for terms "dynamic" (less sensitive), and "cardioid" or "hyper cardioid" (only picks up what's in front of the mic, not to the sides).
But the best solution is to ask your girlfriend to turn down the TV or move to another room. There is only so much you can do. Just remember to point the mic away from the source of interference, because it will pick it up. You'd be surprised how much it will help to angle the mic instead of just talking directly into it, if the interference is directly behind you.
A bit about me before I go on a rant: I'm a professional podcaster. Spoken audio is how I make my living. I've used and tried just about every popular microphone/preamp (XLR & USB) up to about $500 (and quite a few over $500). So to start, what routes CAN you take (you kind of highlighted your options a bit, but I'd like to expand on them).
Types of Microphones:
Sorry for the INCREDIBLY long-winded response. Microphones, for me, make or break streams and just because it's "analog" or "looks cool" doesn't mean that it'll perform well. I also want to add an additional shout out to using a Podfarm or OBS's VST plugins to highlight your voice. Using a microphone "dry" is rarely (if ever) the best way to get the best out of that microphone. Adding simple effects can be the difference maker between making a $50 microphone sound like a $500 one and a $500 one sound like a $50 microphone. Cheers and good luck!
>The mic [$69]: https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATR2100-USB-Cardioid-Dynamic-Microphone/dp/B004QJOZS4
No. If you're going to invest money for something used in room level recording like this, you buy a condenser microphone, preferably with a large diaphragm. Dynamic microphones require entirely too much proximity to the element for this sort of thing, unless you're just faking it and can afford to maintain perfect distance. You also have to drive the gain/preamp/whateverUSBconnectedmicscallit too hard in order to get decent pickup of subtle noises vis-a-vis a condenser mic.
If you're hung up on dynamic, opt for an omnidirectional model, not cardioid, as you'll go off center from the sweet spot far more frequently with the latter. I've used both, and preferred a heavily coloured omni which lower levels simply because of movement.
Also, the response curve on this thing isn't exactly stunning, with roll off starting about 120hz and with a 10db hump from 2K to 10K.
>The foam filter [$2]: https://www.amazon.com/Stage-Foam-Ball-Type-Windscreen-Black/dp/B0002GXF8Q
Also no. Never, even. The sponge these things are made from will rapidly deteriorate leaving particles all over your shiny new element. Windscreen or deadcat, sure, but not a sponge.
>You might also want to look into Samson mics, although I haven't used them personally, so I can't tell you much.
Samson comes from the same factories as Behringer. Behringer has a reputation for making cheap clones of real equipment, plastic in lieu of real metal, cheap SMD components, and poor quality control. YMMV, but for what people do around here I suspect no one will run into any issues.
The Behringer C1u comes in at less from reputable dealers than your dynamic suggestion. The B1 comes in ~50% more. The B1 supposed is natural, where as the C1 has some colouration to it, but I have no hands-on with either.
That doesn't qualify as a recommendation, but I will say you could probably do a lot worse.
Yes, a Zoom mic would be fine. But there are a ton of articles around about beginner podcast equipment:
If you already have a computer, you can do it way cheaper than $200. Just buy the ATR-2100 (recommended in both articles) and plug it into a USB port. Use free software such as Audacity to record and edit your voice.
Here's my recommendation for a podcast starter kit:
The ATR2100 USB is a dynamic mic that sounds good, and has both USB and XLR options.
If you have a bit more money, I'm currently using this setup:
A pre-amp will improve the amount of gain you get from a dynamic mic (like the ATR2100). The biggest complaint about dynamic mics is they don't always produce a lot of volume.
I've written a longer beginner's guide here.
For a first podcast i though it was really good content. Good back and forth between host. Really enjoyed the pod cast.
The first thing I would focus on is audio quality
Proto you have a great mic but you are too close or you pop filter is not working.
Kira(spelling?) she needs a better mic the quality difference is very distracting.
There are few options for pod-casting mics.
Lasting thing with the audio bump up Kira's volume she was a little bit quieter than Proto, not big but noticeable.
In the podcast description please put your social media info in it, don't forget to put guest info in as well.
Time stamps for sections are nice too but I know they are annoying
I might of missed it, but an RSS feed for pod cast apps would be nice.
This well be worlds better
Infinify Primus p153 x2 $150
SMSL SA 50 amp $70
Behringer USB DAC $30
If you can add a sub
Dayton Sub-800 $110
You can also checkout /r/budgetaudiophile and /r/zeos for more recommendations.
Spotify and cellphones are certainly not high quality audio sources. If your having trouble with a particular sound device on linux you might just want to try a different device.
Are you paying for Spotify? The free version audio quality is pretty terrible. With premium if you set the quality to very high its ok.
The sound interface on most phones isn't all that great. It's optimized for speech and not music. Some phones are better than others.
These are slightly better than your typical built in audio interface and work good under linux:
The line in on your soundcard is built for literally pennies. Using it will almost always result in horrible audio, regardless of what software you use. Audacity is fine for recording direct tracks.
The next step up would be to get a usb audio interface, it will sound much better recording through that.
Here is a cheap one:http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1396199199&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=UCA+202
If you can't buy ANYTHING.... well do you have a smartphone? Your smartphone's mic placed 5-10 feet from the amp with a decent volume will sound better than the line in on your sound card. Do a bunch of takes until you find the best placement and amp volume.
Instead of spending $30 on a USB headphone splitter the OP would be much better off in every way buying an actual amp/dac for the same price.
Yes. That's the exact sound it would make. In that case, a USB DAC would probably help, but it doesn't have to be expensive. Even this would probably be an improvement: http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI
I have no idea whether or not it would damage the headphones or if it would even really work, but I'm curious if you have a standalone DAC or DAC/AMP. usually any noise you get from headphones on your computer would be caused by interference in the motherboards on-board audio. If you don't have a dac or dac/amp, consider getting one as it might just eliminate the noise you experience without having to use a device like this. You can get a cheap standalone dac like this or this. Now, idk what version of the DT770 you have, but if it more than the 32 Ohm, you could also consider getting a cheaper DAC/AMP combo from SMSL or FiiO.
for the price, this is an excellent DAC. Not $400 quality, but you probably aren't looking for that. Optical out is a big pro btw. http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1325278076&amp;sr=8-1
You are coming from the stereo output (2 channels) of your mixer. You need an interface with two inputs. You could use the Scalet 2i2, but the Scarlet interfaces are made for microphones, not line-level inputs like your mixer.
All you really need is one of these. Depending on what computer you are using, all you may need is just an RCA to 3.5mm cable like this.
Hope this helps!
Maybe someone can correct me, but according to the manual for that receiver, it has an output impedance of 470ohms. That's a bit high for HD800s (and just high in general, like most AVRs jacks).
You're also possibly double amping it by amplifying the signal out of your MacBook and then again in the receiver. I think people tend to overstate this as a problem though.
Apple usually has a good reputation for DACs, but a cheap external DAC like this one will feed a line level signal to your receiver at least. This DAC just got an update with a new DAC IC that people are excited about.
You'll find tons of amp recommendations for the HD800 here so I won't even bother going into much detail.
Ultimately though, if it's loud enough and it sounds good, I wouldn't bother tinkering unless you really want to.
This is probably the cheapest I'd recommend. https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI
Hey /r/audiophile! Three questions for you today.
I have seen the Behringer UCA202 recommended on here a few times for a DAC, but I am considering the UFO202 instead because I want to also be able to record vinyl to my computer. Is this the right choice? Will I still be able to use the UFO202 as a DAC for playback?
Also, if I plug a 3.5mm to RCA cable from the headphone jack of my computer to the AUX input of a receiver (Yamaha CR-450), will I get any additional benefit from adding a DAC, or does the receiver serve as a DAC?
3rd question: If I were to use that same 3.5mm to RCA cable to go from the headphone jack of the UCA/UFO202 to the receiver, would that be just as good as getting an RCA-RCA cable, or would that throw away some or all of the benefit of the DAC in the first place?
For the DAC, I'd suggest the excellent behringer UCA202, but the speakers are by far the most important part of the system. Getting the best speakers might mean going without an external DAC for a while.
First double check that your PC doesn't have a combo jack (3.5mm analog and 3.5mm optical in the same port). a lot of modern PCs (especially macs) have this and if that's the case this is your best bet for audio. This is what you'd want.
If you're using HDMI output (especially if you're using a receiver or multiple HDMI inputs), something like this is a good choice.
If not, your next best bet is a internal soundcard with optical output (like this one) if it's a desktop, or an external USB soundcard with an optical output if it's a laptop (like this one).
If neither of these work, and/or you're on a device that only has a 3.5mm analog output and nothing else, you can use one of these with one of these adapters. It's known as an analog to digital converter (ADC) and will take in analog (RCA/3.5mm) and convert it to a digital format like optical. This isn't super recommended, as it add extra conversion steps to the process and will reduce the sound quality of your soundbar somewhat unless you pay out extra money for a high quality professional ADC.
You're looking at the wrong stuff here. All of these are going to sound terrible.
USB DAC. That way you can plug into the computer via USB.
From there, go into a Lepai amp and Dayton speakers. This setup will sound so much better than the ones you were looking at.
It also doesnt do USB, making it useless for many.
Here is a decent USB DAC:
https://www.amazon.com/BEHRINGER-U-Control-Low-Latency-Interface-Digital/dp/B000KW2YEI?crid=1RLE08EIBRMC&keywords=behringer+audio+interface&qid=1537566551&sprefix=behringer%2Caps%2C162&sr=8-10&ref=sr_1_10Get one of these then use the controller output into the usb souncard rca inputs the pc will pick it up as an USB input so will B.U.T.T i actually own one and it works great .
Connect your laptop to this DAC with USB, then connect that with a pair of red and white phono leads to an amp like this or this which will power your speakers. There are loads of little amps like that on eBay that can be had for very little money if you're willing to wait for delivery from China vs getting one from a UK 3rd party, (my SA-50 was £33 and took about 3 weeks to arrive.)
So you have a couple of different options.
You can get a PCIe sound card with an optical output on the back:
Or a USB audio interface:
I personally prefer USB based options. They are easier to swap between computers if you need to do that.
Go for a used pair of active KRK, Roland, or Yamaha studio monitors. If you're patient I bet you could find a steal for ($100-$150) on craigslist. Hook em up with a behringer usb audio interface (used as well) and toslink digital cable. You could get a MUCH better setup for around $150.
Yes. /u/I_eat_mangoes is pointing you in a good direction. Definitely need an amp. I also recommend looking into the O2 or the O2+ODAC Combo. I've heard really good things about both. The Schiit Stack - Magni and Modi - are a little less expensive. The nice thing about them is you can just get the amp at first and add on the DAC later if needed.
I have a UCA202 floating around somewhere, and the sound is surprisingly good for the money. It certainly might be all the DAC you need.
If you can only afford one thing, I would get whatever amp you can afford and add a DAC later.
I know you said under $100, but I've never known anyone to regret spending that little bit extra on a set of cans (except people who bought Beats™). Assuming you're going to be using them for mixing work as well as leisurely listening, I can highly recommend [Sennheiser's HD 380s] (http://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-380-Pro-Collapsible-Professional/dp/B001UE6I0G). There are very few other products in your price range that compare.
When you have a little extra scrilla on hand, I also recommend picking up one of these so you can boost the output level to the 380s. The power, clarity, and control offered by this combination is an amazing value.
Like /u/ulgreswo, I used a different card; the Xonar DG. In my case, it did work under linux alright, but I'd always have to tamper with a setting under alsamixer in the terminal to get it to output sound on any fresh install of linux. Not sure if the DGX would be any different in that regard.
Also the audio-quality wasn't really all that spectacular, as I would still get buzzing and beeps due to interference from the LAN port.
In the end, I sold it and instead replaced it with this external USB DAC (Digital to Analog Converter), which was very affordable, and put out excellent sound. This particular DAC interested me due to the well written review on the Amazon page from Jayteck, where he describes replacing the capacitors on the board for even better sound quality. I followed the instructions contained in the comments, and found that it does indeed sound quite superb when these modifications are done (though it sounded better than the Xonar DG even without the mod).
Alternatively, I've also read great things on various audio enthusiast forums about this Behringer DAC, which is also quite affordable.
Due to using USB, both of those DAC's are plug-n-play with Linux, and require absolutely no configuration to get working. The only potential downside is that they do not have microphone inputs, and only output stereo audio.
Just buy the Behringer UCA202 and be done with it.
It's only $30. It has great quality for the price. It has a headphone jack (and volume potentiometer) as well as RCA line-outs for going to a line-input (NOT pre-outs - use in conjunction with a preamp/receiver). It also has optical out for direct digital passthrough, should you decide to get a better DAC in the future.
ok, your desktop PC should have a blue plug at the back:
plug the console into this port with the adapter.
now, connect the speakers to the green as usual.
go into your sound properties on your computer:
for windows 7 it would be control panel -> sounds -> manage audio devices
click on recording and you should see the line in option. turn on listen to this device. now, when you do that, you can see it pop up in the volume control. open volume control in the bottom right near the clock and click mixer. you can control how loud the console is in comparison to the PC sounds.
if you dont want to do all of this PC fiddling, you need to get a mixer:
which does the same thing, but has more inputs and does not rely on the PC.
if you want more inputs for your pc, you need to get something like this:
which will add one more stereo input.
An interface goes between an audio source and a computer. It converts an analog signal to digital, and sends it to your PC via USB, FireWire, thunderbolt.
In your situation, iPad->interface->computer.
An interface is the correct solution. Using your line input on your computer is an option and may work, though.
Ninja edit: you would plug in what you call an aux cable to your iPad and something like this
Double edit: even cheaper
zed is on point with what hes saying. I would add that the 8050 seems to be pretty similar to the 8255 in terms of the quality of sound reproduction. ie same THD. The 8050 does have more power and the bells and whistles that zed mentions.
You need to check out your computer first. What kinda of sound card you have and if you need a better DAC. If not do you have digital out for sound. As far as I know most laptops dont have a digital out so you would still "need" a USB DAC. (You might find that the integrated sound card does the job and you can use the headphone out on the computer.
Personally I look for barebones stuff for an amp/reciever and I would prolly go for the 8255 and save the $100 difference. Then you could see if the headphone out works out well enough and if not grab a DAC.
Sounds like your line level is a bit low - maybe a poor output from your soundcard?
I recommend dropping like 30$ and getting this http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI to see if that doesn't help your problem.
I'm guessing the dynamic range on the output for your sound card isn't great and music tends to be on the louder side so the issue isn't as apparent there.
Also could be poor noise floor on your amp - solve this by putting an inline pre-amp (to raise your signal level for quiet material) or unless you have a real high power amplifier (explaining the poor noise floor) I'd just grab a T-Amp or a cheap stereo amp like this http://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-DTA-1-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B001PNOH2I/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1346872929&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=t+amp (lower power higher fidelity). I say this because you will have to remember to turn the pre-amp down for louder material to avoid breaking your amp (it may not care, but more than likely you will damage it if your signal input gets too high)
or this http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PCA1-30-Watt-Stereo-Amplifier/dp/B0012KZNP4/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1346873001&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=2+channel+amplifier (little more power, probably not as good SQ but it is well enough reviewed, and I'm sure there is probably minimal audible noise at listening levels)
Also could be noise from your soundcard output - if you unplug the signal cable from the amp is the hiss still present? if not just grab that behringer dac I linked to above and it will sort you out
I could recommend a 7.1 card, and if you must have a 7.1 sourround headset, this is a fairly swell soundcard it: Asus Xonar DS
Having done as you ask, let me ask something. Do you really need a gimmicky 7.1 Headset? Because that's what it is: a gimmick. The individual drivers in the headset will not only be smaller (and thus lose any quality in bass, and be incredibly tinny in higher trebles), but the incredibly limited space for driver placement (opposed to how with a home theater, you have the entire room to place the speakers for surround) in the headphones, meaning that you'll find it incredibly difficult to actually discern the direction of a given sound in the 3d environment of a game, making the feature ever so slightly pointless.
Infact, in my experience (I've owned both a Turtlebeach 5.1 headset, and a 7.1 Razer Megalodon), even software virtualization techniques (for example, Dolby's Pro Logic software) beat a given 7.1 equipped headset in ability to make clear the direction of a given sound.
As many no doubt will recommend you do in this thread, I must recommend you pick up a quality set of headphones, and this is a good place to start looking for one. Along with that, I'd recommend you get a quality DAC (Digital-to-Analog converter, they function kind of like soundcard, but offer alot of benefits over a sound card, at the price of being outside the computer) such as this.
Of course, it's all subjective, and there's no way for me to convince you of the lovemaking-sounds a high quality set of headphones (with a DAC) can provide, without your experiencing it yourself. Whatever you decide to do, best of luck to you.
Saved you $200.01 American dollars and you get a better product for a low price of $28.99.
First of all, thank you so much for such a helpful and detailed answer! I wasn't expecting this kind of awesome comments from everyone!
About the virtual instruments, I was thinking that I would really get inspired if I bought the expensive ones, but you are absolutely right. I'm just starting and probably should try learning everything with the free tools that are available (which don't sound that bad actually). I'll check out everything you recommended, including the audio interface. I just have one question about that. I'm about to buy a new digital piano (This is one of the reasons I started to take interest in the computer compatibility), and since (as you said) those have MIDI ports, should I avoid this interface and buy this one instead, since the first one doesn't appear to be compatible with MIDI? Sorry if this is a very obvious question. I'm a real newbie to this fascinating world and I would really want to make the right decisions, especially since I'm about to spend on a piano already and have limited money for this project (at least for now).
Okay, I'm going to pick up the [Scarlett Solo] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Computer-Audio-Interfaces/Focusrite-Scarlett-Solo-Audio-Interface-Tools-First/B01E6T56CM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485701751&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=scarlett+2i2), thanks for the info :)
The SM57 is a pretty good mic... The problem is most likely the adapter. And the fact that you have less control over the gain of the mic. Dynamic mics shouldn't need phantom power, but I've only used adapters like that when running one into a real mixer. And if you're considering an adapter like that, something like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E6T56CM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_36RzybA61JRPK would be a much better option. I'm using a larger version of the same thing to run my audio when streaming.
I realize it's a long shot but if you're in the San Francisco bay area, I've got a few extra USB audio interfaces I don't need
You could go for the Røde NT1 kit which includes a microphone, a shock mount, and a metal pop-filter, and connect it to a Scarlett Focusrite Solo (2. gen). This way you get 24 bit, 48 kHz recordings, which ought to be enough for most of your clients :)
How well does it sound? Well, here's a comparison with the Neumann U47 ($4000 mic).
How come, that such a price difference is so hard hear? The room is treated very well. You can do something like what I did.
I would not recommend a box - it can sound "boxy", but it might work...
Look you may need a small amp between your guitar and the interface but I doubt it.
Focusrite Scarlett Solo (2nd Gen) USB Audio Interface with Pro Tools | First https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E6T56CM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_g3qXKNij2Nsgu
Currently my interface for simply recording voice, no instruments. Cheap and really reliable. Let me know if I can be more help.
I'm good on connectors, my main 3 screens are taking up all my display ports, I gotta move my t.v. off the HDMI and use a DVI adapter for that to make room for my Rift.
As far as the stand goes, I'm kind of hoping that bezel and gap between center and side monitor will be enough, other wise I'll get scissor stand, I can wait for prime shipping and just lay camera down when not in use in the mean time.
By keeping face plates clean I think you mean the face gasket?
Some people have been using face masks, especially people prone to sweating like my self. A face mask looks easier to clean than a face gasket, though I may get one too for comfort reasons.
The hard part of prep for me is finding a way to mount my hotas either to my chair or desk properly so they don't move when I'm in the Rift. Aside from that I think I'll just need some double sided foam tape for my Leap Motion and a usb extension cord, then I'm set.
Well... I can honestly say that's a new one for mic preference. Bravo?
As far as a mount, that mic is light enough that you can pretty much use anything. There's a bunch of identical entry-level scissor mounts, all with the same design/clamp, like this one (hell, there's even one for a couple bucks more that comes with a pop filter). I use this for my own desk setup with an NTG-2, works alright, just know that it has its quirks and can't support anything over maybe a pound without overloading the friction plate.
inb4 PSA1 recommendations for a Disney mic.
Get headphones and a mic that can be on an arm. I made a budget combo ($100) that would blow any headset out of the water.
Pop Filter: https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Microphone-Stabilizing-Recordings-Broadcasting/dp/B01N21H9WY
Yeah, o-rings don't do much to any switch from my experience. And if you've got Razer Greens, which are pretty close to Blues, there is no muting that click sound. Especially with a Yeti, that even picks up my board that's as silenced as I can get it. This mic stand made a huge difference in vibrations/sound quality honestly though.
But you need a non-clicky keyboard mainly, with either tactile or linear switches.They're a lot quieter already than clickies.
You can also get silenced versions of both with rubber dampers inside, like Cherry Silents, or Aliaz, Zilents, but the latter silent tactiles are not available in pre-builts - only on hotswap boards like the Glorious Modular, Massdrop CTRL, or with some soldering. And parts for larger boards are rare, if you want TKL or larger, buy one of the previously mentioned boards.
I think it all depends on your current setup concerning desk real estate and how you use your mic. I picked up a very cheap boom arm (~$20 CAD on amazon) just to clear up some space for my mouse/keyboard. That being said, it did help filter out some vibration sounds and the convenience of being able to easily move my mic to and from is really nice.
I'd happily recommend a boom. If not for the removal of vibration sound, than definitely for the convenience of mobility and added desk space. Note: I also use a Blue Yeti.
I use THIS boom arm. There's a small black piece that unscrews from the mic holder part that can screw into the bottom of the Meteor. For the price, this thing has worked amazingly well. I'm able to keep the gain low (as to not pick up ambient noise) and can position in it in between myself and my keyboard, yet not covering my face.
Shockmount helps a lot but also the suspension boom.
NEEWER Microphone Suspension Boom Scissor Arm Stand https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DY1F2CS/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_MEcuybDNT6ET5
My boom is... cheaper than his. Mine clamps to the desk, so depending on your situation it might or might not work.
I'm using this arm for the snowball:
NEEWER Adjustable Microphone Suspension Boom Scissor Arm Stand, Compact Mic Stand Made of Durable Steel for Radio Broadcasting Studio, Voice-Over Sound Studio, Stages, and TV Stations https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DY1F2CS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ts9WzbYMBPSQE
Shock mount: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Koolertron-Universal-Microphone-48MM-54MM-Microphones/dp/B00H40WUQG/ref=pd_sim_0_13?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00H40WUQG&pd_rd_r=6a9a2ae2-54ab-11e9-b66c-2357e9d6a74b&pd_rd_w=ksuLw&pd_rd_wg=eIXOC&pf_rd_p=1b8636ae-4f21-4403-a813-e8849dd46de4&pf_rd_r=P0A9YARVG8JTSJ3HRQXS&psc=1&refRID=P0A9YARVG8JTSJ3HRQXS
Boom Arm: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00DY1F2CS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Ive been using this Neewer arm for over a year now and it works great.
The only thing I had to do with tighten down the joints on it because of the Yeti's weight, but it works flawlessly for me. You can screw the yeti onto it right at the end by taking off the mic holder. I have my arm attached to a mic stand so I have more options on where I want to move it.
Cheap, but has lasted 1 year now no issues with noise or anything else..
Also this is probably the best quality USB mic you will find, rivals the Yeti. Remember to always run USB mics on a POWERED USB hub for zero feedback noise...
I bought this for it, Really like it for streaming and recording gameplay stuff.
Amazon link here, some reviewers specifically mention using it with a Blue Yeti, so you should be good.
If you're in need of a mic stand to go with it, this seems to be a popular one
Edit: So I've set it up and tested it and the mic sounds great. It doesn't pick up any of my key presses or mouse clicks although you just have to mess with the thresholds and gain a little to suit your room and whatnot. The Neewer stand is nice also; easy mount and easy to move around
OP PLEASE disregard all these comments and buy this mic arm for $13: LINK
This mic stand isn't supposed to fit a Blue Yeti but it can; there's a bit of a trick to it. Basically you have to unscrew the male part of the fitted bolt on the stand and put the male end into the bottom the the Blue Yeti, then screw it onto the stand. Here's a video encase I wasn't clear:
Here's what my setup looks like: http://imgur.com/a/ZF9z2
I pinned it to the back of my desk and have the stand and mic hanging over my monitor. I've haven't had any issues with this thing at all since I bought it a year ago.
The stand given with the AT2020 is complete shit. Maybe look for a desk one and mount it on a wall or something.
like this http://amzn.com/B00DY1F2CS
My current one - http://i.imgur.com/QVPq8Ch.jpg
That's what I do with a old flat panel mount. I have tried different locations and it seems that it sounds better rather away then up close with the right settings.
bLeaguer said they have noise but I have never had any with it for recording or streaming but I do use a noisegate for the fact is i make stupid noises and type hard.
Also make sure it is plugged in to the back of your PC in a USB and not a front USB port. This might be what cause the noise bLeaguer has mentioned.
Shock mount is nice to have but I find it isn't really needed, same as a "POP" filter.
as the above guys said the usb audio interface you gonna have couple advantages, basically if you ever planing to upgrade into studio speakers or so, you already gonna be having audio interface, and for studio speakers audio interface its must have thing otherwise you losing more than half of the speakers quality , same goes for microphones, if you ever consider buying some microphone and it has XLR connection, or even 3.5mm jack, you can buy adapter to get XLR or so , and even for some £20 microphone you gonna have pretty clear and more than enough quality for skype talks or so , and it would be many times better than directly plugging into your motherboard or front 3.5m socket. / and the last one its what you need the Headphones quality, usally if you buy headphones for few hundread bucks or so, and you using 3.5mm jack to plug into your motherboard, you losing more than 50% of your audio quality , So with some certain interface you can get the full of your headphones/speakers/mics etc. So for audio interfaces you can go for https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-U-PHORIA-UM2-BEHRINGER/dp/B00EK1OTZC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484581921&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=usb+audio+interface that would be the most basic and it would do the job more than enough. The 2 more choices is either M audio or Scarlete , m audio : https://www.amazon.com/M-Audio-M-Track-2X2-Interface-24-bit/dp/B01FFH5XMC/ref=sr_1_21?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484581921&amp;sr=8-21&amp;keywords=usb+audio+interface thats also one of their newest audio interfaces , and it has pretty good design doesnt it ? :P The other one https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Audio-Interface-Tools/dp/B01E6T56CM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484581921&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=usb+audio+interface , its literally up to you which one you prefer, you can go for more basic option if you not planing to get some expensive pair of speakers or so , if you thinking that you might get some KRK studio monitors or so you can pick one of them 2 £100 worth audio interfaces , the quality between m audio and focusrite wont be noticeable . But to mention again if you literally need it only for those headphones and you not planing to get anything in future just go for the 50 usd audio interface and you will be more than happy :) ( sorry for not fluent english hopefully you can understand )
The AT2020 is a great condenser mic. You'll need an audio interface though. AT2020 Microphone: https://smile.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT2020-Cardioid-Condenser-Microphone/dp/B0006H92QK/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=at2020&amp;qid=1564418857&amp;s=musical-instruments&amp;sr=1-3
USB Audio Interface: https://smile.amazon.com/BEHRINGER-Audio-Interface-1-Channel-UM2/dp/B00EK1OTZC/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=usb+audio+interface&amp;qid=1564418882&amp;s=musical-instruments&amp;sr=1-3
So as another 29yo musician figuring out reaper over the past few weeks. Definitely watch tutorials, how to's, and basic use videos from youtube and stuff posted here. You'll learn way more from doing that faster than you will from poking around. Most of the time i just google something like "Reddit Render Midi track in reaper" and i'll get a link to this sub with a video.
Definitely get an audio interface, i'll help tremendously with overall sound and latency. I think something with two channels will work well for you. You'll most likely only be recording one instrument at a time if you're doing this solo but the option of the second channel will let you record an acoustic performance if you ever want to. I have no brand loyalty so here's a few options, you can do research on them as you see fit or search some out yourself:
UMC202HD , Scarlett 2i2 , AudioBox USB 2x2
Or if you need to be more budget friendly, this guy is a great bang for you buck, however it is only one channel:
If you dont have any 1/4" headphones, pick up a 1/4" male to 3.5mm female adapter as well so you can monitor your sound and for playback through the interface. You can find these at bestbuy or somewhere local pretty easily.
You'll want to look at some 3rd party VSTs for effects instead of your phone. I'm currently in the process of trying different free things out, so i don't have too many suggestions unfortunately, but maybe some other people can chime in with their favorites. I'd watch youtube tutorials to learn how to setup and use these. two I could recommend so far are:
MT Power Drumkit 2 - Simple drum VST that allows you to pick from a select of beats in different styles, then once you import them into reaper you can change the beat with the MIDI editor as you see fit. Watch some youtube tutorials on it to get going using it.
AmpliTube Custom Shop - Comes with a few amp, cab, and effect options that should get you going with some guitar sounds. You can also get the demo version of AmpliTube Full and it will run for 30 min, then you have to close and reopen it for it to work again (seems to be a common setup for demo versions of VSTs), but you can get a good bit in 30min if you know what you want going in.
If you're new, let's introduce you to the different types of microphone.
First, there are traditional microphones, and USB microphones.
USB microphones (like the Blue Snowball) don't need additional power or cables apart from the USB cable. The USB cable alone will power the microphone and carry the audio signal fine.
Traditional microphones use XLR cables and require a preamp. If the microphone is a condenser mic, it will ALSO require power which we call phantom power or 48V power.
If you go with a USB microphone, you just need to buy the microphone and that will work fine by itself plugged into your computer. If you decide you want a traditional microphone, you would also need a preamp, and possible phantom power. This is the purpose of an Audio Interface. An Audio Interface such as a Focusrite Scarlett Solo, a Presonus AudioBox iOne, or a Behringer UM2 include the preamp your mic needs, plus phantom power if you are using a condenser mic.
So with a traditional mic, you would need to buy both a microphone and an interface to convert that analog signal to digital, amplify the signal, and provide power to your mic.
I know this is a lot, but I hope it helps you figure some of this out.
If by daily communication, you mean for gaming and skype/chat, I would go for a simple USB mic. There are cheaper options than the Snowball that are also very good. Look at CAD or Samson. Both have good options.
If you have other questions, feel free to send me a pm.
Check if you can trouble shoot the camera and the built-in mic first if you haven't. I have a very finicky old camera with built-in mic in my desktop that i have to unplug and replug the camera every time i turn off my computer. Sometimes I have to play with the skype settings to make it work.
I understand the headphones built-in mic since my SO has gone through a million and one pair and its not the comfiest for him. I use an in-ear earphones and its better for me and its my go to. I'm using these earphones for all around because they are cheap and they sound great for the price and pretty durable.
If you want a separate one and to invest, buy a nice quality mic that has a lot of reviews. I suggest going to amazon and reading the reviews there. I have heard a lot of good things with Blue Snowball mics and you can even use it for gaming or recording audios.
I hope it helps and you find something that works! Best wishes to both of you!!
Blue Snowball, $50 Reliable, decent sounding budget option
AT2020 USB, $170 Nicer, will last pretty much your whole podcasting career.
Don't even bother : http://fakespot.com/product/floureon-bm-800-condenser-sound-studio-recording-broadcasting-microphone-shock-mount-holder-blue
Do yourself and everyone you talk to a favor and get a mic that doesn't suck like this https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Snowball-iCE-Condenser-Microphone/dp/B014PYGTUQ
On-ear is also an option. Koss Porta Pro is cheap and has a lifelong guarantee, and then you could just stick an AntLion ModMic on it. Both run you just about under 100$.
Btw, a Blue Yeti is decent and also usually doesn't cost 100$.
I also wear glasses, and decent headphones aren't going to be uncomfortable, they just cost more. It's an investment, but if you want something cheaper and portable I think the Koss are very decent.
Koss Porta Pro: https://www.amazon.com/Koss-Porta-Pro-Headphones-Silver/dp/B00001P4ZH/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1525683534&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=koss+portapro
Some other recommendations:
SoundMagic E10: https://www.amazon.com/SoundMAGIC-Noise-Isolating-Earphones-Gunmetal/dp/B005HP3OB0/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1525683563&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=SoundMagic+E10
These will actually sound amazing depending on the hardware you run them on. The better the source, the better they sound. They can sound as good, if not better, than In-Ears that cost double as much! They're rather neutral.
Yeti Blue Snowball: https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Snowball-Condenser-Microphone-Cardioid/dp/B014PYGTUQ/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1525683616&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=Yeti+Snowball
(Actually only 50$ right now)
Why the fuck isn't he using his brand new "selfie stick" for his cooking videos...
Do you guys think he'd be able to figure this out?
by Blue Microphones
IF you arent trying to spend too much money on it, I'd recommend just heading to a local studio and renting some time to record what you need. That is, unless you are trying to make this a regular thing.
I'll go ahead and throw some links up on what I list as good, low-budget options to get you going.
I'd recommend getting a cardioid condenser mic (AKG AT2020 ~$100), an audio interface with at least one mic preamp and phantom power (Scarlett Solo ~$100), and a pop filter (Audio 2000s AWS4071 ~$10). You'd also need a DAW to edit the tracks, such as cutting out long pauses and words you didn't intend to make into the final cut, and adding a bit of compression and EQ changes. Most likely the audio interface will come with an intro DAW that'll do just enough for what you want to do. For better results you can also pick up an acoustic shield (Monoprice 602650 ~$65) to help isolate the sound, which doesn't seem important just getting into it but once you hear the difference you'll see why its important. Oh, and you'll need to get an XLR cable (~$8) to plug the mic in, but you may or may not want one that's a bit longer than the one I linked.
Something I want to throw in there as well is you'll also probably want to learn how to get on de-essing. In a vocal take, often times an "s" sound will come out very harshly if left unedited. A method to avoid this is to not talk directly into the mic, but slightly off center. Alternatively, you can buy a VST or program that can do it automatically for you. Also, a good thing to do is to reduce noise either through careful automated eq cuts or by using a program such as reafir which can be downloaded for free from the developers here.
If you do get involved with all this craziness, and I know its all pretty intimidating, I'd be happy to help you get on your way to making some great recordings. Just send me a message any time.
You need an audio interface. You don't need that phantom power supply. I don't know why they even sell that shit as a bundle. It just confuses people.
GET THIS. It's what everyone here recommends for beginners. It connects to your computer via USB. It has a built in preamp, phantom power, and a headphone jack as well as RCA outputs on the back if you want to hook up speakers. Just plug you mic directly into the mic input on the front, turn on phantom power, adjust the gain with the gain knob and you're good to go.
If you want two mic inputs GET THIS. It's also got balanced outputs on the back if you ever decide to get studio monitors.
Don't get a USB-Condenser Microphone. Yeah they are easy to handle, but you will need a XLR-Interface if you get any Type of "better" Mic in the Future.
A USB-XLR Interface is not really expensive, and is a one-time buy. If you know you'll only do Vocals, just get something like the Scarlett Solo or similar.
For Mics: the Rode NT1-A is an absolute classic for Voice/Vocals, because it offers a lot of Value for the Money and you can Record basically everything with it. Also, it's cheap. If it's not cheap enough, the AKG P120 is even cheaper, but imho the NT1a is worth the money.
And: don't forget a stand and a pop-filter (you can build one yourself, just google diy-popfilter)
First of all, the feature that the other commenter is referring to is probably Discord's attenuation feature, which lets you turn down the volume of other applications on the system while you are speaking. That may work for you, but it's not the same as monitoring.
Second, as you noted, Windows' builtin monitoring feature has enough latency that it's essentially useless. If you don't already own a headset that supports monitoring, then the only way to do this properly is with an audio interface (for example; there are probably cheaper ones that would work, I just don't know a good one off the top of my head). They can do monitoring without latency because they send the sound directly back to your headphones, without doing a round trip through the computer.
No prob! Those work if you have a DAC or audio interface that outputs RCA.
Otherwise, if you're only using your computer, get this
If you think you'll want to record, I would recommend this. You can use any pair of 1/4 inch cables with this.
How are cheap are you talking about? What are you trying to do? Do you want to record with a PC/Mac, or something like an iPad?
I have a cheap Behringer audio interface that I keep in my travel bag. Since its USB audio is class compliant, I use it with my iPad. The iPad powers it and I can send two channels of audio in to record stuff. Cheap, lightweight, easy to use, and it sounds fine to me.
Here's something I recently recorded with it. I'm no audio engineer, but I think it sounds good:
Here it is:
So when recording vocals and guitar at the same time, like you'd like to do, the debate on what to do is really about how much control you want over editing in the end process.
- If you don't care about control on the individual levels of guitar and vocals AND want to record in one take with both instruments, all you need is one mic, XLR, Mic stand, headphones, and an interface to get the signal into your computer.
In this situation, you need A. and Interface that is cheap but not a POS because it really affects the sound of your recording. Behringer makes a cheap interface for 1 Input (microphone) and actually has a decent Preamp in it. B, you need a microphone and cable (XLR, Balanced) to capture the sound and send it to the interface. This area people could talk forever about, but for just getting the job done and a decent sound, AT2020 Condenser (Currently On Sale) is a great option for capturing both your voice and guitar. any XLR will do $10 or something like that.
- If you wanted to track the guitar and vocals separately, one at a time, the only change I would make is the microphone. Shure SM57 would do great for vocals and guitar individually. There have been many singles and albums in the rock, acoustic, and folk category recorded on these mics alone with fantastic results.
- If recording the guitar and the vocals at the SAME TIME is the route you want, it's definitely possible. 2 Input interface, Two mics, Two XLR's, Two Mic stands, headphones.
- a change in interface is needed from the first behringer to this one because they have the same sound only difference is the amount of inputs for ~$50 more. Next would be buying two microphones, both options listed above are probably going to be the cheapest you'll find with a decent sound. You can find packages like this on guitar center and other audio retailers, but the mics come with a lot of bad frequencies in my opinion, but hard to argue $99 for two microphones. get the cables, plug everything up and record enable two live tracks in you preferred DAW.
As far as the computer goes, Ableton hands out free versions of its "lite" program, and I believe you can record in that version. That would be the best route in my opinion for DAW, Reaper is a good option, I'd stay away from fruity loops if you are mainly just going to be recording audio.
Most of these solutions will put you under or around $250 so I hope this helps, if you have more questions let me know.
get an audio interface and monitor speakers. the audio interface will allow you to record any instrument/mic that uses an instrument cable or an XLR cable. make sure you get one with the right amount of inputs u want. if you JUST wanna record vocals, you can get a pretty cheap single-input interface on amazon for like $40. here's a pretty good cheap one that you can also hook monitor speakers up to with the Left and Right outputs in the back.
(https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UMC22-BEHRINGER-U-PHORIA/dp/B00FFIGZF6/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1519988949&amp;sr=8-8&amp;keywords=behringer+interface). For monitor speakers, I've only ever used KRK rokits. I have the 8" and the 5" ones. Obviously I like the 8" better but the 5" ones are still very accurate and impressive. you can go to a guitar center or whatever and listen to a bunch of different brands though if you wanna hear for yourself before you buy. and if you have any leftover money, save it for after you find out what your ideal production workflow is. i personally use maschine and it does everything i could ever want and more, but it might not work out for you. i'd say the interface and speakers will elevate your game instantly and will lead to producing better quality music.
This is what I use and it works wonderfully https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UMC22-BEHRINGER-U-PHORIA/dp/B00FFIGZF6/ref=sr_1_92?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504745924&amp;sr=8-92&amp;keywords=xlr+to+usb
Audio technica m40x + boom mic is a solid combo. Will run you $97 + tax on amazon prime. Boom mic lists m50x but the connectors for the m40x and m50x are identical.
Audio Technica M40x: https://www.amazon.ca/Audio-Technica-ATH-M40x-Professional-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR54/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484163326&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=audio+technica+m40x
Not especially cheap right now though.
La mia conoscenza si basa sui due modelli che ho a casa: le Audio Technica M40x e un paio di cuffie AKG che avuto insieme al mio S9. E devo dire che quest'ultime sono fantastiche. La mia prima volta che le ho provate, mi si sono alzate le sopracciglia. Non mi aspettavo una qualità simile da un paio di cuffie fornito insieme a un cellulare. Per carità le M40x sono suonano meglio, però la comodità delle in-ear è un qualcos'altro.
Io ti consiglierei le Galaxy Buds, se riesci a trovarle in negozio. Sono la versione migliorata Bluetooth di queste AKG di cui parlavo.
$95 Audio technica: https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATH-M40x-Professional-Monitor-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR54/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467256596&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=audio+technica
$98 Sennheiser: https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-HD-558-Headphones/dp/B004FEEY9A/ref=sr_1_5?s=aht&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467256628&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=sennheiser
First will feel like the sound is coming from inside your head, second will feel like you're at a concert, both are amazing for their price.
I got really close to your budget, but both companies have alternatives above and below your budget.
Audio Technica ATH M40x or ATH M50x are both stellar and can hang with headphones that cost hundreds more.
If you're on a budget get these. If you're willing to spend a bit more, get these. They're a bit more expensive, but the bass is soooo good. I've never experienced such good headphones. Worth the extra money in my opinion. Also never buy beats again. you can get much better for the same price, or the same quality for much less;)
I mean Imma be real with you, I think you should invest in good headphones. These ATH M40x headphones are great, and they're only 100 bucks. I know 100 bucks may sound like a big investment, but these headphones are actually on the cheaper side, and provide great value for your money. I personally have the ATH M50x headphones, which are maybe like 30 bucks more expensive, but those M40X's are actually even better for mixing, since they have a nice balanced audio response.
Edit: You should also get an external audio interface I recommend this. I have one and it isn't very expensive and works great, very simple to use too.
/r/edmproduction is a great place to start and to learn, but can be opinionated at times.
/r/AdvancedProduction is good for the complex, nitty-gritty stuff of production.
/r/whitelabels and /r/electronicmusic are good places to get your music heard, once you've had some experience.
A few personal words of advice:
Invest in some quality headphones. Audio Technica ATH-M40xs are inexpensive, durable, provide good sound, and have a 2-year warranty.
Don't spam your music, ever. If people aren't interested, you'll only come off as obnoxious.
Don't be afraid to use samples, loops, and bits of other's work, ESPECIALLY when studying another artist's style and experimenting.
Finally: backup, backup, backup. There's little more frustrating than losing your entire 150GB project folder because of a faulty surge protector or a spilled drink.
The UCA202 is pretty well recommended, it's a good DAC and has RCA and Optical outputs
You can get a USB audio interface. The better the turntable and interface the better the end product. But for a turntable the level of your LP60, this Behringer unit should do the job fine:
It'd be better to get a USB audio adapter* and just a normal dj turntable like a Technics SL-1200 (assuming you want to queue up certain parts).
Some things to know:
*rca jacks would be the best, and if you have a desktop you could get a sound card installed that has them too. Other wise you could use the line-in plug which might require and adaptor.
RCA line-level input, higher quality than onboard audio, relatively inexpensive.
I've used a Behringer UCA222 with a Pi 1 and a Pi 3. It isn't audiophile quality, but it does sound pretty good. (I think I paid $22.)
$30 and it works with phone, tablet, and PC. Just need a cable or adapter to convert stereo 3.5mm to RCA.
Your mic is a good one, your mixer is probably fine... it probably is the sound input on the laptop. Laptop integrated audio is usually pretty shitty to begin with, as it is crammed in close with a bunch of EM-producing circuits, not to mention general cost cutting and the fact that most inputs on laptops aren't meant for anything but a crappy headset-type mic in the first place.
What you need is an external sound card, or, more accurately when talking about music production, an audio interface.
The simplest route to go would be to get something like a Behringer UCA222. It's cheap, but pretty bare-bones. You would simply plug in the RCA output of the mixer into the RCA input, and you should be able to record via that.
For the next level up, there's some better options. One would be the ART USB Dual Pre, which would let you use TWO microphones. Seeing as you don't have two, and it's fairly limited otherwise (it would ignore your mixer completely), I would rather recommend something else...
..such as the Tascan US-100. This is a more complete audio interface, with mic/instrument and stereo in. You could run your SM57 directly into it, to the computer and have the lowest noise possible (any analog connections introduce some level of noise into the signal). You could also connect the RCA output of your mixer to it. The only drawback is that it does not have phantom power, but your mixer can supply that if you ever end up getting a condenser microphone.
All of these options should sound QUITE a bit better than running your mixer directly into your computer.
You didn't mention what software you use, but almost anything should work with any of these.
Hope that helped a bit!
I'm a semi-professional voice actor - lot of low level experience in a bunch of different projects, and some paid projects for youtube videos or video games. Here's what I can say that can get you started rather than stumbling your way around:
Get a mic geared more towards voice recording (such as the H1 Zoom) - having your own equipment is a much more accessible way to get started.
Sound editing/engineering skills - can't hurt to be fluent in, or at least familiar with programs like Audacity, which will give you a better handle on the output of your work.
Personal projects - find something to practice doing a narration of. Do an audiobook, write something and narrate it, or do a chapter of a classic. Compare your copy to a professional one, show it to audio producers, redo and edit your own audio until you can emulate or develop a style of narration.
Community projects - I got into doing voice over stuff through mod projects; The Freespace Open project has a forum for their voice acting projects. Whilst it's not that active anymore, you can look around if there are any certain games you're interested in.
Learn from the pro's - This documentary is a great place to start; professionals like John DiMaggio and Tommy Kenny give a good insight into the difficulties of building up a career and skills for voice acting.
zoom h1 amazon
and don't be fooled - these are quality recorders, stereo spread, balanced and unbalanced...etc.
if you really wanna splurge - go for the zoom h4n, which can take xlr inputs and more - but in your price range - get the h1 you won't be dissapoint
*edit - come to think of it if you are doing highly dynamic concert band type of recordings - save up an extra hundo and get the h4n.
If you want the audio all on one track as you record, you're going to need a mixer of some kind (a device that takes several inputs and feeds it into a single output). This might get expensive, clunky, and difficult to set up.
My suggestion is that you buy stand-alone audio recorders for as many people as you want to have miced, with lav attachments. I have a Zoom H1 with a cheap lav attachment from RadioShack, and it works great for what I do.
In order to make it work, you'll have to start recording on each recorder manually, and hide it in the subjects pocket or something (you can test if the lav is working using headphones). It would be smart, once the camera is rolling, to get one of your subjects to clap loudly on screen (like they do with a slate on movie shoots), because you'll need to sync the different audio tracks in post-production. You'll have to remember when shooting that every time you stop and re-start recording, you'll need to re-sync in post, which can get extremely tedious, especially with multiple different tracks.
Now, the benefits to doing it this way are: it's less bulky than using a field mixer for multiple inputs, and your camera will not be tied down to the input; it frees up your subjects to move around; it's much cheaper than what you'd need to buy for wired and/or wireless mic/mixer setup; and reduced chance of wireless interference, without wired loss of freedom.
Downsides: having to sync in post can be a bitch; less freedom to stop/start recording whenever you want if you don't want to have to re-sync 50 times; no way to tell if it sounds good until you're done shooting (but checking with headphones before a take, and making sure batteries are full will solve 90% of this problem)...
Anyway I hope that helps.
It's odd because I find the modmic4 to be a bit bass heavy for my voice.
AT2020 is very popular as is ATR-2500. This seems like a good starter pack though I haven't heard that mic personally. Pick up a mic boom and pop filter as well. Room acoustics can play a bit to it too, if you want to improve the sound from there look into a mic shield, though I'd go the DIY route, from there the sky is the limit with room treatment and an empty wallet.
Hit youtube and search best USB microphone and go from there. There's tons of videos.
When it comes to mechanical keyboards, condenser mics will pick up those clicks and possibly annoy those you're playing with...
You can go two routes with this:
The great thing about this route is the interface also serves as a DAC, a headphone amp, speaker volume knob, and you can also record your voice or instruments if you need to!
Remember, when it comes to this stuff, don't always go with the cheapest option. Remember the saying "If you buy cheap, you buy twice." Think about what you want going into the future (i.e. do I want nice speakers, to record anything in the future, etc.). Let me know if you need anymore information!
Personally, I use the ATH-M50x Audio Technica Headphones, they are really good quality. And for my mic, I use the AT2020 Cardioid Condenser Mic. And those have treated me very nicely.
Audio Technica AT2020USB+
It's on sale on Amazon atm for $120, so you could throw in something extra like a pop filter for example and still be in your budget.
My setup right now is a pair of HD598s and an AT2020 USB+, and while I'm certainly not a hardcore enthusiast, from what I do know, it's one of the better/best combos you can go for without worrying about getting an amp, dac, or any of that. They both have different and/or newer versions available, but any jump up in tier will probably see a huge price hike (the hd600 would've been as much as the 598 and mic together, idk if you could justify that).
Both of them sound incredible compared to anything I've used in the past, and as a daily driver to bring with you places I couldn't recommend the 598's more (provided you buy a shorter cable; they're basically studio headphones and come with only a 3m one that's a huge hassle), and you can't do that with a headset!
Alternatively you can get a yeti, it's in a similar price range to the at2020 and I've seen a lot of good reviews. Personally I needed a mic that worked well with my super-deep voice, and I had read of some issues with the yeti that I haven't experienced with the at2020. I could be totally off base there though, I don't think it really matters too much! And if you do want to look into a DAC or and amp later on, the non-usb vesion of the at2020 is a good choice too
Tl;Dr for about $300 on sale you can get a great separate headphone and mic situation instead of dropping the same on a headset that might be lacking on one or the other.
Edit: autocorrect hates short words smh
One final thing - Have you looked at the JBL 305s? If you have the desk space these are way better powered monitors than the 2+ they are $134 each and well worth it
JBL LSR305s on Amazon are 99ea. https://www.amazon.com/JBL-LSR305-Powered-Studio-Monitor/dp/B00DUKP37C/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511400753&amp;sr=1-1-catcorr&amp;keywords=lsr305
Guys, get some powered monitors like these instead, you'll be a lot better off.
https://www.amazon.ca/JBL-LSR305-Studio-Monitor/dp/B00DUKP37C $219 each (80 watts)
https://www.amazon.ca/Micca-PB42x-Powered-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B00NXAEPDC $179 (pair) (75 watts)
JBL Active Monitor - $150 Amazon Price
Read up on how powerful these budget speakers are. It's insane the quality that these suckers perform at! That said, you'd have to look into getting a subwoofer down the line but they can perform without one. A nice budget subwoofer is Polk Audio PSW10 10-Inch - $101 Amazon which is a steal at that price point. Polk's have built a solid reputation in the audiophila world and are quite the reliable little beasts.
You should check these out...http://www.amazon.com/JBL-Professional-LSR305-Studio-Monitor/dp/B00DUKP37C/ref=pd_rhf_se_p_img_1?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=1V2NY5Y4RCGEEPS2W7SX ...$99 each is a steal
Instead of getting Klipsch, go with either JBL LSR305s or Micca MB42X. As for headphones, are you looking for wired or wireless? I've had great experiences with Sennheiser headphones and you can get them almost anywhere.
Great bass for 220 USD isnt going to be easy. If you can stretch your budget a little, these used would be by far your best bet.
same price on amazon
It does get to that price occasionally on Amazon.
It's way too damn heavy to the point where some products go out of their way to mention that you shouldn't even attempt to use them with it.
Has its own very specific shock mount, which is absolute shit, and will fall apart before you can tighten it to where it will actually stay where you want it for any real amount of time.
You can get a better, more complicated, but at the same time easier to swap things out, setup for cheaper.
Basically, to me, the Blue Yeti is the gaming headset of microphones.
https://imgur.com/a/qVR8F My mic setup.
It's this. I bought it as a pack though with a shock mount and pop filter.
If you have a lot of background noise! I recommend using ATH2100 dynamic mic (http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATR2100-USB-Cardioid-Dynamic-Microphone/dp/B004QJOZS4) And it's also a mic under $60!! Check out the videos of people reviewing them and compare the sounds vs others! It has incredible clarity, that your viewers will enjoy!
I just got 2 ATR2100 USB Mics. They are $63.00 each and have great recording quality. Just recorded my first episode with them and the audio quality is clean and crisp. Make sure you get a pop filter!
By far, this one
80$ will get you a good setup(i have the same mic just different arm and foam ball) https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATR2100-USB-Cardioid-Dynamic-Microphone/dp/B004QJOZS4 Look at the "frequently bought" section underneath to see arm etc. This mic is great for area where there are other people around. It wont pick up any background noise. Prefer it over the Yeti for the setup i was using.
A condenser microphone is going to pick up mouse/keyboard sounds no matter how directional it is. I originally bought a Blue Yeti and was shocked by how much environmental noise it picks up, this is not a viable option for most people.
Instead what you should do is get a dynamic cardioid or supercardioid microphone. Not a lot of these exist with a USB connection but the ones that do work extremely well. I recommend the Audio Technica ATR2100-USB (alternative version) or the Samson Q1U if you can't find the AT, they're difficult to get in Europe for some reason.
Either of these will serve the purpose of the average streamer much better than the microphones you are recommending.
I use the AT2100USB and it works very well.
Thanks! I'm currently torn between two (after hours of research lol)
This is the one I'm leaning toward: (Samson C01U Pro USB Studio Condenser Microphone)
And this is the other possibility (Audio-Technica ATR2100-USB Cardioid Dynamic USB/XLR Microphone):
My primary concern is obviously audio quality, but I'm also very concerned with background noise. I've got 4 kids, and keeping them quiet is...challenging. I think the majority of my recording will be done after they're in bed, but on weekends and stuff they tend to stay up late...so, a mix of me telling them to chill out and a mic that can filter out background noise is probably my best bet. I've already started selling my wife on me turning the guest bedroom into my office lol
edit: I'd like to officially open this up to anybody who has mic advice based on what I just said!
Oh I just picked up this right here the other day: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004QJOZS4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
It is around the price of the Blue snowball mics (maybe ten bucks more) but it sounds so much better in my opinion. check out some reviews, nice deep rich satin tone. I love it!
OBS. I (the GM) am using a Blue Yeti. For the players we got https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004QJOZS4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 . We are hosting the chat on skype and I'm using my computer's audio out for the stream.
Don't buy a Yeti!! Blue mics are generally overpriced and offer the same quality that a cheaper alternative will get you. Get an AT2020 XLR and a phantom powered mixer. It'll be much much better than a Yeti and you can fine tune your audio settings with the mixer. If you don't want to deal with a mixer there is a USB version of the AT2020 that should save you $30.
There's also this bundle for $180 that comes with a Windtech Windscreen (Which is awesome, I use it on my AT2035) a pair of headphones and the AT2020 USB+.
I think that piece of kit is just a mixer and won't work as an interface to for recording.
Luckily, Behringer makes an even less expensive mixer/interface that will do exactly what you're looking for: http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-302USB-Premium-5-Input-Interface/dp/B005EHILV4/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1407273279&amp;sr=8-9&amp;keywords=behringer
If you get a mixer you can plug any old headphones into it and get really good quality sound out of them.
But if you're looking for a headset I doubt you'd find a good quality one for $80. Definitely don't buy Logitech headsets. They break really easily due to how the ears swivel where they connect.
If you had the money and didn't wreck your headsets I would especially recommend the Sennheiser PC363D. Sennheiser make some awesome headphones.
You will likely want an actual audio interface.
Behringer has a number of cheap USB mixers. That will give you a simple EQ, gain, and simple mixing with physical knobs. This might be better to learn on?
Edit: for a little more, this one would give you a few more features to play with and learn on, and give you more capacity down the road if you get into it a little more.
Maybe this? Behringer Xenyx 302USB Mixer
If you want to play several audio sources at once then you need a mixer to combine the inputs. A simple Y-splitter cable won't work for this and most DAC/Amps only play from one source at a time. There are affordable USB mixers that act as USB audio interfaces (both playback and recording in PC), like this one BEHRINGER XENYX 302USB. It combines analog audio inputs and you can listen to the output via the headphone out on the mixer itself, the line out from the mixer to a separate headphone amp, or using the PC's audio playback if you treat the interface as a recording device and enable listening on it.
As for the optical, as long as it's just a PCM signal and not DTS or Dolby Digital (those require decoding), then you can convert that to analog using a simple digital to analog converter ($5-10) and run that analog output (RCA, 3.5mm, 6.5mm, etc) as another input on the mixer.
> this Blue Yeti set
Lots of people start with that but soon upgrade. You can get better quality mic in a same price range (like Blue XLR models). You still need some kind DAC but those are cheap while giving better sound quality for playback than onboard audio (handy for reviewing audio quality of a game).
Well here's where it depends on what you want to do with the recordings after the initial recording. If you aren't looking to mix and edit the individual instrument tracks afterwards, you could use the 8 mic inputs on your mixer, and output the audio to your pc via a usb interface like the Focusrite 2i2:
Now miking exerything up: You've got Bass and keys which could easily be lined directly into the mixer. For vocals, you're looking for a straightforward dynamic micropohone, a common workhorse is the SM-58 or SM-57, now at around $100 this might be more than you are looking to spend, but then again, you can never go with a 58 or 57. If you wand a good budget clone, I'd look at the $35 GLS ES-57 https://www.amazon.com/GLS-Audio-Instrument-Microphone-ES-57/product-reviews/B001W99HE8/ref=cm_cr_dp_see_all_btm?ie=UTF8&amp;showViewpoints=1&amp;sortBy=recent
For guitar, again the industy workhorse is the SM-57, so again you could grab another ES-57, and move on to the Drums.
You've got 4 channels left, so You're probably going to want Kick, Snare, and 2 overheads.
Kick drum you probably want to go with something with a larger element, and while nothing extraordinary, Cad makes a couple kick mics for around 40 bucks https://www.amazon.com/CAD-Audio-KBM412-Microphone-Cardioid/dp/B0002D0Q7W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1474769856&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Kick+drum+microphone
Snare, grab another ES-57, as an SM-57 would be the go to.
Overheads, If your mixer can supply phantom power, there's a plethora of small diameter condenser microphones to choose from. For $100 you can get a set of Monoprice condensers and while you're not going to blown away by the sound, for $100, they'll be more than enough in this situation. https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=600700
Add in 6 15' mic cables at 10 bucks a piece via monoprice https://www.monoprice.com/category?c_id=115&amp;cp_id=11509&amp;cs_id=1150902 - 4 1/4 cables for the bass, keys and to go from your mixer output to the audio interface and thats about it.
1 - Focusrite 2i2 - $125
3 - GMS ES-57 - $120
1 - Cad kick drum mic - $40
1 - Stereo Pair Monoprice condensers - $100
6 - Xlr microphone cables - $60
4 - 1/4 Cables - $30
Grand total $475.
With this, whatever comes into the mixer is what you're gonna get, so you'll need to make sure you have all your panning, eq, and levels set the way you want them, because aside from some post production eqing, that's pretty much what you're going to get. If you're looking for individual tracks for individual instruments, thats going to take an audio interface with at least 8 inputs, and probably set you back 400-500 on the low end.
I assume you play guitar. I would recommend either Cubase, Reaper, or Ableton for your DAW (digital audio workstation/recording software).
For drums I would recommend either Superior Drummer 2 with the Metal Foundry expansion or Addictive Drums 2
For guitar amp simulation I would recommend either Guitar Rig Peavy Revalver or Podfarm
And finally I would highly recommend a recording interface. The Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 is awesome and you can't go wrong with it.
Assuming you mean acoustic guitar, the cheapest setup I would recommend is these three items:
GLS Audio ES-57 which is $40 and very similar to the legendary SM57.
AT2020 condenser microphone for $50.
Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 recording interface for $150.
You'll then need cables and stands, which will run you $40 at the cheapest, but you might want to get some better cables which can be around $10 each.
I recommend cables with rubber connectors like this, the ones with smooth metallic ends generally have really terrible soldering and are very breakable.
(Ones like this are okay).
This is a lot better than just getting a microphone that already has USB, and the AT2020 for $50 is a steal.
Buy a Scarlett 2i2 USB interface
Download Reaper (a free Digital Audio Workstation)
Buy an Audiotechnica AT2020, a great all-purpose mic
Take songwriting classes and production classes, or try and find lessons on Youtube or something. Learn music theory and how chord progressions and good melodies are written. It doesn't matter how good your hardware/software is if you don't first spend a lot of time learning how to create a well-structured song.
If you don't understand how chords and melodies fit together, and how to make a well-structured lyric (at least subconsciously) at a music theory level, it will be very difficult for you to progress if you are trying to make catchy music - Find a professional and invest in classes!
I would recommend this mic. http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATR2100-USB-Cardioid-Dynamic-Microphone/dp/B004QJOZS4
It's pretty cheap, and it gives great quality sound for what it costs.
My room is very large and open, I use this one - https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATR2100-USB-Cardioid-Dynamic-Microphone/dp/B004QJOZS4.
Recently switched from a snowball to an AT2100 and I’m very happy with the quality. It’s a dynamic mic and my recording area isn’t the most quiet in the world. It made a big difference from the snowball in my case because of that.
We used to record on a Blue Snowball mic and then upped our game, and we did it without using a mixer based on some tips we got from this subreddit.
We have 4 people recording, and chose to use a Zoom H6. It can record up to six tracks (but the most we've used is 4). Our microphones are Samson Q2Us, which is the same as an Audio-Technica ATR-2100 mic. (We chose the Samson Q2Us instead because they came with headphones and cheap stands and cost less.)
We decided to get boom arms with shock mounts and pop filters in order to reduce noise. To be honest, the Zoom H6 alone, using the capsule mic, produces better sound than our Blue Snowball. I also like the H6 because I can take it on the road and record mobile interviews clearly, even in noisier environments.
Here's one of our latest podcasts recorded with this setup, and here's an old one with the Blue Snowball for comparison. (Jump around the episodes a bit and you'll see the difference.)
Good luck with whatever you choose!
Start by grabbing one of these puppies: http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATR2100-USB-Cardioid-Dynamic-Microphone/dp/B004QJOZS4
While it's not the top of the line, it's a great starter mic. You can record via USB straight into Audacity.
Then you want to figure out what the theme of your show is. Far too many people just say, "Oh I'm going to start a podcast" and then give up two episodes in or get disappointed when no one downloads it because it's a few dudes sitting in a basement talking about nothing. Having an overarching theme is crucial.
Try to be different. There's a podcast for every topic out there but frame it in a way that others aren't. I met these guys who started a show called "Good Morning You Drunks" and they were awesome. There's tons of great concepts out there just waiting to be grabbed up. Heck I wish I could find someone who could do like an Uber Car Confessional and interview people that he/she Ubers around.
The only other thing you'll really need is a podcast hosting service - this is where the files get stored so that iTunes can see them. I use Podbean. A lot of people use Libsyn or Spreaker or some others.
I got my start following John Lee Dumas' free podcasting course on EOFire.com
The mic with the red windscreen is an Audio-Technia ATR2100. It's a pretty cheap mic for how crisp and clear it sounds.
The black windscreen is a Audio-Technia P615
The ATR2100 is definitely the better mic, but in my experience with us using both at the same time, I hear no meaningful difference in sound quality. The build quality of the ATR is also nicer.
Both mics feed into a Zoom H4n sitting next to the couch.
Every condenser microphone picks up a lot of unwanted noise, because condenser capsule is very sensitive and designed for work in studios, closed recording room with acoustic foam everywhere.
If you are really concerned about extraneous noise, look for good dynamic microphone. Most of them would require some audio interface with it, but there is a good exception like Audio-Technica ATR2100-USB. https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATR2100-USB-Cardioid-Dynamic-Microphone/dp/B004QJOZS4
Just keep in mind you MUST keep it close to your mouth for effectiveness. Why? Well, that goes because of your issue - you want lower sensitivity (because of babies), so you should provide mic with stronger signal from your voice. (There is a nice bundle on Amazon with boom arm and pop-filter included https://www.amazon.com/Technica-ATR2100-USB-Microphone-Desktop-Filter/dp/B01MSQFIRE/ref=pd_cp_267_4?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B01MSQFIRE&amp;pd_rd_r=5895S5TMA83ENRWN0BQM&amp;pd_rd_w=dJXdO&amp;pd_rd_wg=m0AAH&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=5895S5TMA83ENRWN0BQM )
I just got this to start my podcast with and so far, I love it. Really affordable, obviously, and the ability to plug headphones directly into the mic to monitor has been really nice.
Depends on if you want to buy a audio interface (XLR-USB) and a mic or a combo. I started out with a audio-technica ATR2100. Its a great mic for the price and you can use it without an usb interface.
Comes with a little stand and and you can hook it up to USB. I would get foam cover for it so you don't pop your pees. (Heck I'll send you mine for free)
Or you can get the humungus Blue yetti mic all the streamers buy.
I have a Heil PR40 I use for my recording and radio stuff.
Bon Appetite: Claire is my waifu dog.
GoT: Should I get back into the madness? I'm a few seasons behind.
I like hiking and nature so natural parks are my Jam. Colorado/Utah are awesome. I'm actually planning a trip to Cuba myself. Have you considered Hawaii?
I used to have a snowball and I found that if it was on any position other than 1 (for speech, not instruments) it picked up way too much background noise. Even on 1 it seemed like the gain was really high. Then position 1 broke all together. I switched to an Audio-Technica ATR2100 and it made a big difference.
60 is low. Really low if you have nothing from before to build on.
I would consider the Audio-Technica ATR2100 it supports both usb for direct use with the computer, and xlr for later upgrade when you might consider getting a mixer.
Here is a nice rundown off a few mics. Youtube
If you choose to go the mobile route you might want to get one of these.
We used them for a couple of episodes of our podcast until upgrading to these.
If you want to see the difference compare the oldest and newest episode of our [EXPLICIT] podcast here: https://soundcloud.com/UncrediblePs
EDIT: The second option clearly isn't for mobile use. It works with USB and XLR. The first option just plugs into your 3.5mm headphone port on your phone. Not trying to confuse anyone =)
Here is the mobile version of your link
I got the Audio Technica ATR-2100 last year when it was on sale for 50 USD, and I'm convinced that I won't find a better mic at that price range. And, good news, it's on sale again! https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004QJOZS4/ref=ya_aw_od_pi
If you have money at your disposal, use This. You can put it on top of your desk and simply switch jacks when needed. It sounds tedious, but it's better than to crawl under your desk. Also, you can have multiple audio sources and can configure bass levels.
Use either an analog mic into a mixer or a usb mic with built in monitoring, then use headphones to hear the mix during your recording session. You can find a cheap usb audio most for about $50, I use the Behringer xenyx 302usb, for example. You'll find that these tend to give better audio recording quality than a standard mic in port as well, since they are usually shielded better and build to a higher quality standard.
Okay then what I would do is buy a guitar headphone amp they are cheap like less then $20 USD, and plug it into the out for the fx loop, and your headphones into that. This only utilizes the preamp portion of you amp but it is probably the most cost effective. If you do this and the guitar headphone amp has a gain option turn that all the way down. A similar option to this would be to plug your fx out into a DAW or some kind of audio mixer this would also give you the option to record yourself on a computer without being effected by room acoustics. If you want to you can use the other output but that will damage your headphones unless you buy a line level converter. Then the analog from the converter to a headphone amp, and from there to your headphones. This would require you to do some simple wireing, but hey if your up for it why not try.
I also want you to make sure you know the people on this thread including me are NOT professionals and you should do you own research and only do what you feel comfortable doing with your money and equipment.
If you would like to do more research here is a good place to start.
Also here are links to example of the things I mentioned
Guitar headphone amp - Monoprice 611500 Mini Headphone Amplifier for Guitar, Clean https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AJHE5E6/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_95ZExbPNDRWFP
Electro-Harmonix Headphone Amp Portable Practice Amp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003UIBQEI/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_E6ZExb9S9N2V7
DAW - Focusrite Scarlett Solo (2nd Gen) USB Audio Interface with Pro Tools | First https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E6T56CM/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_N7ZExbDTYTZC7
Mixer - Behringer Xenyx 302USB Mixer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005EHILV4/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_58ZExb4RMVW9V
Line level converter - PAC SNI-35 Variable LOC Line Out Converter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EAWS3W/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_O9ZExbPEZPHXN
Hope I helped in some way and hope you find your solution!
Awesome thank you! I'm on a MAC so I think the audio interface would be better than software. What about these other ones from amazon? I'm a cheapskate what can I say. Would they be just as good, or would the one you recommended be better because it works with Traktor?
I use a Lexicon Alpha interface. Its about as basic as it comes, but hell it works just fine. One instrument and one mic input, I usually plug my bass straight in or run it through my amp output since I'm too cheap to get buy a DI or a good mic for bass. It also comes with the program Cubase. Again, its basic and its kinda finicky, but its as functional as any other software once you learn how to use it. There could be better interfaces at this price though, it looks like Behringer also has a pretty competent interface for $50 but I've never used it.
I'm partial to Behringer tech so I'd recommend [this] (https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UM2-BEHRINGER-U-PHORIA/dp/B00EK1OTZC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1524521333&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=xlr+interface) or [this] (https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-302USB-BEHRINGER-XENYX/dp/B005EHILV4/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1524521333&amp;sr=8-10&amp;keywords=xlr+interface) if you're planning to record alone. If you're going to have guests, I used the [XENYX Q1202] (https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-1202-BEHRINGER-XENYX/dp/B000J5Y282/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1524521461&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=Behringer+XENYX+Q1202) for a long time and it served me well.
Social media and promotion is hard, but necessary if you want to build a listenership. I'd recommend tweeting about more than JUST links to your show. I don' think anyone wants to follow an account that's all about self promotion. My shows are all comedy podcasts so I lucked out in that I can just throw out dumb jokes/observations all day and people enjoy them. For a more serious show, it's a bit harder.
To get started, follow a bunch of people that follow shows similar to yours, wait a week, unfollow anyone who hasn't followed you back, then follow a bunch more. If people post things you like, interact with them. Retweet, respond, whatever. It's basically about building a community. I've built up 1,200 followers doing all that, which is puny next to my podcast listenership, but it's nice to have a place to let people know what I'm up to.
Also to build a podcast audience, guest on a bunch of shows that are similar to yours. Guest on science podcasts, have them on yours, promote it on Twitter, etc. I've had different guests on all the time over the last few years and it's really helped me build a big international audience in Australia and the UK, reaching people who never would have heard my show otherwise.
Yes, a mixer is required if you want both. I presumed you wanted to just hear audio from whichever device without re plugging the headphones, which is a common request.
There are tiny mixers that would be suitable to your application.
I'd go for something like this:
This lets you take line in from your PC via USB, which will be marginally better than using its line out, and you would plug in your PS4 using a cable that ends in 2x RCA. It also allows you to use your headset with 1/8" cables directly (including the mic!), provided you get a TRRS to dual TRS adaptor.
I was originally going to recommend the Behringer micromix discussed elsewhere in this thread, but it's a 4 to 1 mono mixer, so not what you want.
Behringer UCA-222 https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA222-BEHRINGER-U-CONTROL/dp/B0023BYDHK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1486995664&amp;sr=8-1
BEHRINGER XENYX 302USB https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-302USB-BEHRINGER-XENYX/dp/B005EHILV4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1486995664&amp;sr=8-3
Focusrite Scarlett Solo (2nd Gen) USB https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Audio-Interface-Tools/dp/B01E6T56CM/ref=sr_1_17?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1486995773&amp;sr=1-17
XLR mics with phantom power for the win! If you're going for professional quality sound, save your money and invest in a good XLR mic.
The problem with USB mics like Blue Yeti is the fact that they use the integrated sound on your computer's motherboard. If your motherboard's sound system is older (2 years or older), the voice from the USB mic could sound robotic or it might not capture your entire voice range. This is especially a problem for folks with deeper voices. On older computers, you might sound far away or your voice could break up. If you have a brand new computer, feel free to use a USB mic until you can afford an XLR microphone.
XLR microphones require phantom power. Scarlet Focusrite (https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Audio-Interface-Tools/dp/B01E6T56CM) is a good product for phantom power, but there are affordable, good quality sound mixers that provide phantom power as well. Alot of streamers have used Berhinger Xenyx 302 ( https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-302USB-BEHRINGER-XENYX/dp/B005EHILV4) or Berhinger Xenyx 502 (https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-502-BEHRINGER-XENYX/dp/B000J5UEGQ). I personally use Roland VT-3 (https://www.amazon.com/Roland-AIRA-VT-3-Voice-Transformer/dp/B00IGDXK9Q) because it's a voice changer, sound mixer, noise gate, and phantom power all mixed into one machine.
For mics, I admit I'm using a cheap Pyle PDMIC58 . (Hey, I got this XLR mic for free with my Best Buy points. I didn't have enough points for a good mic). My problem with the mic is that it's too bright for my voice, and I have a low voice for a woman. I need something that captures my full voice range alot better. I'm planning to upgrade to a RODE NT-1 mic (Not the Rode NT-1A) before the end of the year.
Like others have stated, take your time and do research. Don't rush! Find the mic that fits your voice best. Good luck!
Here's the mixer I'm using with the cables unplugged, this (I think) is it on Amazon. For power I have it plugged into my computer via USB, although when I first started using the mixer with Rock Band, I just had it plugged in via a power outlet.
These are the two cables I use for plugging in the kit and PS4 controller. Here's the mixer with the cables plugged in. The middle white and red RCA cables are plugged into the AV receiver, which is a Sony STR-DG820 (my dad purchased it years ago and just had it laying around somewhere).
Under the Quick Menu > Sound/Devices on the PS4, this setting has to be put on All Audio so that way when you plug in the controller, it'll route all game audio to the mixer.
Here's a video of how it sounds with me playing through bits of In Waves, Snow (Hey Oh), and Sulfur. Before playing Snow, I swapped the aux cords so the ReTrak cable is connected to controller and the other to the kit since for some reason the audio for the guitar riff that plays throughout most of the song can't be heard when I have them the way I mentioned above. Besides that, it all comes together pretty well. Hope this all helps.
Edit: fixed swap mentioned at bottom.
Assuming you already have a camera, you need everything from the camera output until it hits the interwebz.
Magewell HDMI or SDI USB capture device. It shows up as a UVC device (like a webcam, no drivers necessary) on Macs and Windows.
You also need a way to get audio into the computer. Cheapest way: Behringer 302USB. No drivers for this either. One mic input, one RCA stereo input.
For the computer, you need something relatively powerful. A modern mid-spec notebook will work. Make sure it has USB3. For software, OBS. It's free.
You need internet also (duh.) Wired when possible, best to bring a long CAT5 cable with you. If there's no internet in the venue, I've had success with cell hotspots.
I'm just using a dynamic XLR mic and an audio interface that I had sitting around since I do some studio work. Also a boomstand behind the table.
Mic: Shure SM48
Generally speaking, the more software you use, the more things can mess up when trying to link them into OBS. I personally never recommend software mixers just as they have a nasty habit of screwing up when live.
One thing I can't stress enough when it comes to audio, don't go too cheap! Fundamentally, you do have to spend a little bit to get a setup that works. An entry level audio setup will still set you back around $100.
For entry setups I'd recommend looking at the Neewer kits on Amazon. They do need a phantom power source too, yet they're still better than using a basic headset mic. From there, with them being all XLR based, you can use essentially any usb mixer you want. Behringer have a huge range of these with USB output to hook them into PC, starting around $40 too.
Unplug from PS4 and plug into PC.
If you want everything plugged into one central location, then you're going to have to look at buying a mixer and experiment with the wiring yourself.
If you're on a budget
This mixer with this mic and this stand
The mic is a dynamic as opposed to a condenser (and on amazon comes with a free cable) So it won't pick up background noise nearly as bad as a condenser (especially the yeti) would, and the stand comes with a pop filter. When you decide to upgrade the mic, you can buy an inline phantom power box for like 20 bucks (the unit only has 15v, which isn't enough for most condensers) if you decide to go the condenser route down the road.
This is what I use so my speakers work with both my PC and my turntable at the same time
I have my PC set to to a DAC and this mixers allows for inputs from both the turntable and the DAC. This all then goes to the output (speakers)
I think it's decent enough, but if you can afford it pick up a mixer
This is what I have
Have you thought about micing your amp? I much prefer this method over using "line outputs". You can pick up an SM57 and an audio interface for a decent price off Amazon. This way you can setup your computer to play audio through the interface (and into headphones) when recording.
As far as the delay in Audacity, you can set up "Latency correction" in "Edit -> Preferences -> Audio I/O".
Here you go!
Note that acoustic treatment is typically much less important for dynamic mics than for condenser mics :) It's a little trickier for multiple person commentary (as you sort of need a dynamic mic per person, which means probably XLR over USB, but you'll be saving on sound treatment, so there's that). Something like a Focusrite scarlett 2i2 interface with two ATR2100 mics or two Shure SM58 mics (SM58s are tanks, and are usually in great quality when gotten used).
Joint commentary is tricky. You can either do a shutgun mic, or condenser and try to manage unwanted noises, or you can go the multiple dynamics route, which should give a very good signal-to-noise ratio.
http://www.amazon.com/M-Audio-Track-Mobile-Interface-Preamps/dp/B000BD31ZW/ref=sr_1_30?s=musical-instruments&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1406221909&amp;sr=1-30&amp;keywords=m-audio - This one is okay-ish, i have it, it does the job but not more, dont recommend if you intend to record, the pre-ams are noisy as hell.
I have Reason 7 and a Mac Book (13 inch, non retina, 2012). Everything is just fine and projects from Reason 3 can be used with no problem.
When I was buying a Mac Book the retina was like $600 more than the base model so I went with that, and I'm glad I did. You don't need a retina display to make music.
Also I use an external display, so I never even open the Mac (actually I could probably have just bought a mac mini and it would be the same).
So, you're an engineer...be careful - just get a limited rig and then start making music. Do NOT start reading about everything that's available, your engineering brain will take over and you'll never get around to making music - instead you'll just fall into gear acquisition syndrome.
I would also advise getting the following:
A bluetooth Mac keyboard, a blue tooth mouse, and 4 or 8 rechargeable AA batteries (the batteries are key), and an external display.
For monitors a pair of Jbl LSR305. These seem to be the best "bang for your buck" monitors and in online reviews people will not shut up about how good they sound for $150. Avoid Rokits.
As for midi, I'd say get a good midi keyboard and a good set of drum pads. If you want cheap and easy I'd go for a nanoPad2
If you want something a bit more involved (and actually this is what you should get) go for the padKontrol
You'll need keys. Since you say you're a composer you'll need at least 49 keys (61 and 88 are obviously better, and best). When I was buying stuff the MPK49 was pretty much the best thing you could get (except for the pads). The MPK249 is coming out soon and supposedly has better pads, but we'll see.
And finally an audio interface. I have an Echo Audiofire4 which isn't made anymore (btw it's fucking awesome so if you can find one used, do it). It seems the focusrite 2i2 is the most popular choice among newbies...personally I'd go for something with more inputs. RME and MOTU seem to the best but you'll pay a lot more (though in the long run it's worth it).
I would also say, go slow. There are a ton of cheap midi controllers (like $50-$100) so just get one, see what you like and move on from there. DO NOT cheap out on your audio interface. Your audio interface is the most important part of the whole chain.
So, Reason 7 on a Mac and an external display/mouse/keyboard, some keys and pads, an audio interface, and a good pair of monitors and you're set.
Hope this helps.
Plenty of people will encourage you to get a focusrite scarlett 2i2. At 150, it's a great purchase, and will be far cleaner (in terms of sound quality) than running a USB mic, especially if you're using a laptop (even with an SD, laptops introduce a fair amount of noise). This is what we'll call your AI, or Audio Interface.
Next, you need a mic. Starting out, I'd recommend you look around on craigslist for some used mics, read up on them, then snap up something simple. That said, plenty of people use SM58s. They're reliable studio workhorses. At 100 (far less if used) new, they're fantastic. Next you'll need an XLR cable for the mic (~10$), and a 1/4" TRS for the guitar (she probably already has one for an amp). The scarlett supports 2 ins (both can be 1/4" TRS or XLR), so she can record herself playing guitar and singing simultaneously. So you're currently out 260. You might also consider getting a decent pair of closed ear headphones for monitoring (cheaper than actual monitors), but many people will argue on this point. Decent closed ear headphones are very expensive (~270 and up), but this may be going beyond your present needs. Let me know if this helps.
You're welcome. I've read the whole thread and this is what you're looking for.
Currently using the AT2020, running through the Focusrite Scarlett 2i2
This is actually the same audio interface I installed in a radio production studio, and is essentially the same setup minus the in-my-case-unnecessary sound board, just without the electrovoice RE20
If just want to play into you computer, the quarter to eighth inch jack will certainly work. However, if you want improved audio quality you can purchase, as mentioned by the guy above me, and audio converter that plugs in via USB to you computer. The two leading units are probably the scarlet 2i2 or the audiobox usb. They both pretty much do the same thing.
I have a zoom h1 and it records pretty nicely. I'm not recording instruments with it or anything, but It works well for enviornmental sounds and random weird things that I tend to record. The price is definitely right on this one.
I've had this one for about a year and like it a lot. I got the wind screen attachment also, but I've never needed to use it even though I do interviews in cars, outside, etc. YMMV. I've had good luck with this recorder even in settings like restaurants where I might be interviewing one or two people over a lot of background noise.
At that budget, I'd recommend a portable recorder, like the Zoom H1: It'll get the job done, and will work just fine for this purpose.
I googled its price, out of curiosity, Amazon is selling one for 109 dollars.
Of course, if quality is really not an issue, then yes, you can always just use your phone; Just don't expect professional-level quality.
I really like these:
Zoom ZH1 H1 Handy Portable Digital Recorder (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003QKBVYK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_X8j3CbJG81417
But I’ll take a laptop and mics sometimes too - or just use my phone!
Im new to the game as well, but so far these are the things I have picked up for my G6:
first, i bought a G6 kit that came with some handy stuff
I have also purchased
A slightly better tripod
A flood light
Battery pack for said light
Variable ND Fader for filming out doors
Rode shotgun Mic
Lav mic to go with the H1
Headphones to listen for levels
Triple Mount Hot Shoe
Backpack to hold everything
This is just a fun lens, and its cheap the 50mm means its a 100mm equivelent, so its for really tight portraits, but the low aperture is good for low/light and for a very shallow field depth. When I am able to use it, this lens produces the most popular results when i post them online.
new strap cause the one that comes with the G6 sucks!
What i want to get:
A bigger zoom lens I am mostly interested in videography(weddings etc), and this would be good for back of the house shots)
The M 3/4's "nifty fifty"
If you're just needing Natural Sound, then the Rode VideoMic Go will do you fine. It also picks up decently well in interviews.
However, even if you have that Shotgun for interviews, to make them just that much better, use a Giant Squid Lav Mic connected to a Zoom H1. It's a phenomenal entry level Lav setup that is decently affordable.
In this range I'd probably try my luck with the Zoom H1. No experience with the H1, but I use an H4N and the stereo mics work pretty well by themselves on that.
Zoom H1 handy recorder
Don't be a cunt
I highly recommend the Zoom H1. It's got built in stereo mics and can record at 96k 24bit. It's super portable, so it works great for recording practice sessions or performances. It also comes with Wavelab which is a reasonably useful DAW.
Rode Shotgun (if its in your price range, there are cheaper) http://amzn.to/2cqqWVA ($200+)
Takstar mic - http://amzn.to/2cqqA10 ($24) got really good reviews and claimed that it's the same manufacturer as the rode?
Recorder: H1 - http://amzn.to/2c6zbJS ($90)
Lav: Rode Smartlav - http://amzn.to/2cqofTU ($80)
Cheaper Lav - http://amzn.to/2c0jWh6 ($18) works just as well
Trrs - Trs adaptor - http://amzn.to/2c6zbJS ($15)
Hope this helps, check out my gear list if you have any questions!
Not all. Just the ones in our area. I know other people who are recording shows as well. Definitely not all but we will have a few.
Not that this idea is bad (it isn't,) but I'll at least point out that buying that puts you at half the cost of the Zoom H1, which would get cleaner audio than the internal pre-amps anyway.
Don't mind at all. Save for 2 of our interviews on Friday morning, we're going to be talking to developers and exhibitors on the show floor. For a few years now, whenever we do interviews without the luxury of being able to do our full mixer and mic set up, we've been using a Zoom H1 (I've also been using it to record the commentary on my let's plays). I upgraded to the H4n recently and I'll be trying that out this year.
If you want to get an idea of how stuff came out while we recording, this is our interview with tinyBuild from last year: http://www.podcastgarden.com/episode/tinybuild-games-pax-east-2014_15536 Skip ahead to about 2 minutes in. This is after post-processing with some noise removal to get the general din of the crowd out.
It works really well and can even double as a USB mic. Here's the listing on Amazon: http://amzn.com/B003QKBVYK
Audio-Technica ATR2100-USB Cardioid Dynamic USB/XLR Microphone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004QJOZS4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_n5JIAbXFW5EF4
I recommend this mic. I use it for both let's plays and podcasting and I love it. It has both USB and xlr inputs so you can plug and play right away plus if you wanna upgrade to using a sound mixer eventually you won't need a new mic cause this will work great with that too. I got a pop guard for it recently and am blown away by how clear it is for the price.
Audio-Technica ATR2100-USB Cardioid Dynamic USB/XLR Microphone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004QJOZS4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_w3fqDb0M7W6H5
I have this microphone and it works great. It's dynamic so it doesn't pick up as much background noise. It's USB and XLR so if your budget increases down the line you can get an audio interface, but for now you can use the USB. I've seen it get down to $45 before. If you're willing to wait you can set a deal alert on Slickdeals or stealengine
Each mic has their pros and cons, dynamic mics make the guess work much easier and require very little audio engineering but at the risk of sounding like a live sports commentator on the field or have nasal issues but exterior noises are not a problem.
A condenser mic requires a power source from most likely an interface or if it's USB that should be solved, a little more knowledge on audio editing and would sound better with sound treatment foam to control the room's acoustics since it will pick up a lot of room echo as well as noisy environments like lawn mowing, washing machines/dryers, traffic, someone coughing up a lung in an adjacent room and ventilation kicking on and blowing (treatment foam won't block out a lot of these exterior noises). Condenser mics sound much better in clarity since it can capture a wider range of frequencies but with that increased range it'll pick up weird noises.
The Shure MV5 that you're looking at might have to be reconsidered unless you're willing to learn how to work around a condenser mic's weaknesses in post or invest in some sound treatment or if you have a very quiet recording space. If this sounds unappealing then you may want to look into a dynamic mic like a Shure SM 58 or the Audio Technica ATR2100.I'm not proficient in knowing the easiest and cheapest way of connecting a dynamic mic to a PC other than an interface, there are XLR to USB converters but I don't know how well they work and idk how it will sound if you were to convert the connections to 3mm and plug it right in to the PC but I'd imagine it'll sound terrible.
Don't just leave us hanging!! What may be changing?
OP, the Yeti is not a bad mic for the price, just as /u/abowlofcereal said, it has a limited upgrade path. I usually recommend the ATR2100 which can often times be found around $50 and a mixer or audio interface for similar price point. The 2100 is good as it can be used as a usb mic, but also has an xlr input for higher end equipment which offers an upgrade path. Solid starter mic.
I found a very helpful post on an audio reddit, that said dynamic mic's are really great for removing background noise. I see a lot of recommendations for the ATR2100 but the Blue Spark looks nice too but it doesn't display that it's a dynamic mic. I think if I get the ATR2100 I'd use it for a USB at first, but possibly switch to the XLR hookup.
I'm personally planning on buying the ATR2100. It's a rather cheap microphone that works both with USB and XLR. I've heard really good things about it and the demos I've listened to sound great.
I suggest you don't fall into the trap of getting a Blue Yeti. A lot of people who don't know squat about microphones tend to go for it because it looks cool, but it's quite overpriced and generally isn't considered to be very good. There are definitely much better options out there for a better price.
Any USB mic plugged into a computer will get you started. Audacity is a free editing program and will do the job. You can record over Skype or Discord with an assist from one of the numerous recording programs out there.
There are people suggesting this that are getting downvoted. I don't know why. It's a legit way to get started.
Yes, your quality will not be great if you use a cheap USB mic. But if you're just starting out in podcasting, there is no reason to dump a bunch of money into it until you are absolutely certain it is something you enjoy doing.
Podcasting is a commitment, and everyone involved needs to be committed to making episodes on a schedule. There is no reason to spend hundreds of dollars on equipment on the chance that you or your crew get burned out after doing three episodes.
If this turns into something you love doing, then spend the money - one upgrade at a time.
All that said, if you really feel like you want to dive in and get some gear, I love my Audio Technica ATR2100-USB. It's on sale for $68 right now, and does both USB and XLR, which gives you some flexibility depending on your recording circumstances. It's a good launching point and won't break the bank.
This is pretty much the basic starter set that will really serve you well.
ATR2100 or Samson q2u for mics. Very similar mics that can just be plugged into your PC via USB. They both also have an XLR connection which future proof them if you buy other equipment. Both do a great job of rejecting background noise and they sound excellent.
Basic Foam cover for the mic.
Neewer scissor Mic stand (or some stand to get the mic closer to your face). The stand that comes with these mics isn't what you need.
I'm assuming you have a decent computer. If so, then an Audio-Technica ATR-2100USB or one of its equivalents -- AT2005 or Samson Q2U -- is the way to go. They're all "basically" the same, so get whatever's cheapest at the time of purchase. the 2100 does have a lifetime warranty while the others don't. They frequently go on sale.
Personally I like the Audio Technica AT2005USB. It comes with a little stand and a USB cable. It works extremely well when on the go. It also has a jack for your headphones and you can even plug it into a mixer via XLR, making it a very versatile mic.
If you are looking for something a little less expensive, there is the Audio Technica ATR2100USB. The audio quality is almost as good as the AT2100, but doesn't have as nice of an on/off switch or windscreen inside.
If you need even cheaper than that Knox has an AT2005 knock off. It looks and sounds nearly identical.
All 3 are dynamic cardioid mics which are usually preferable when recording in a less than ideal environment since they should pick up less room noise. I wouldn't worry as much about audio quality differences between your home studio, and anything you use while on vacation. Most listeners understand you can't bring your home studio on the road.
Also full disclosure, the Amazon links are affiliate links for GFQ Network, the podcast network I work for.
The Audio-Technica ATR2100/AT2005/Samson Q2U are very good podcasting microphones, and are versatile by having both USB and XLR connections.
The Zoom H6 is a good recorder. If you want to save money, get a Behringer mixer (1-XLR, 2-XLR, 4-XLR) and a Zoom H1 to record with.
The Audio-Technica ATH-M30x or ATH-M40x are good headphones.
Get any pop filter that fits your price. A Neewer boom arm is OK for podcasting (that's what I use), but the next step up is a Blue Compass, Rode PSA-1, or Heil PL-2T.
The Neewer boom arm comes with a plastic shock mount.
Monoprice.com has pretty good quality cables for cheap, but price almost equals quality for audio cables.
Audacity is a good audio editor.
Check out Better Podcasting, The Audacity to Podcast, School of Podcasting, The Feed, and Podcasters' Roundtable for podcast advice. Pod Squad is a Discord server that I help moderate where you can also get more help from other podcasters.
What do you need with your $100 budget? Is it just you? I'd recommend this mic with a stand or boom arm if it is just you and you don't need headphones. Start with audacity for editing at the start, but look into the trails for better software like Reaper or Hindenburg.
I bought my Audio-Technica Mic for 20% off.
Purse.io is awesome, i have a lot of stuff i don't NEED. I just through it on a amazon wishlist and ask the highest % off and keep it there for months(or until i decide i do NEED it)
I just uploaded my first podcast, so I may be a good person to answer?
I decided to go with the Audio-technica ATR2100 since it had the option to be a USB mic and an XLR mic. Hoping it will give me flexibility in the future if I decide to get a mixer or something. It also includes a headphone jack in the microphone so I can hear myself. I got a mic stand an a pop filter, too, since they weren't very expensive. It ended up being around $100 for the equipment, which I used credit card points for.
For recording software I went with Audacity. It's free and pretty simple to use. I can see how it might be limiting or unapproachable, but if you know the basics of sound editing you should be good.
For hosting I went with the free trial of podiant. I liked that they offered unlimited bandwidth and help with posting to Apple Podcasts, Stitcher, etc. It was very easy to upload the podcast and add the needed information. The hardest part was making a logo, which I did on my own in Photoshop but I might ask someone to make one for me later.
Trying to keep it simple for now and see how it goes.
I scaled up audio inputs with microphones that have USB and XLR outputs. I recorded for a while with a 2 XLR mics going into a two input interface and 2 ATR2100s by aggregating devices on my hackintosh (or using ASIO4ALL when twitching on windows, which is what the kids say). After a while I upgraded my interface to one with more inputs, but I was able to keep using the ATR2100s through their XLR connections. Low initial cost to expand inputs, and future proofing for when you do get that nice Saffire interface with loopback capability for recording remote hosts super easily!
Best of luck!
You definitely want to go for a dynamic microphone. Don't let anyone talk you into a condenser, they are GREAT for recording but will pick up every bit of background noise you have.
If you can spring a few more bucks, you really can't go wrong with the ATR2100.
I've never used this one, but the CAD U1 should definitely be sufficient for your needs.
I would highly recommend a scissor boom mount to get the microphone off the desk. It will help isolate from keystroke and mouse noise, and keep people from hearing a thump if you bump into your desk.
It depends on your recording environment. If you are just starting out and are recording in a bedroom or office I recommend a cardiod dynamic. Cardiod refers to the pattern around the mic that it picks up. Cardiod mics are most sensitive right in front of them in contrast to omidirectional mics which are sensitive to sound from any direction. A dynamic mic isn't as sensitive as a condensor mic and doesn't pick up a lot of background noise.
If you are just starting out I recommend one of the following:
One Person w/ USB mic:
Audio Technica ATR2100 -- ($69)
Neewar Boom Arm -- ($14)
On Stage Foam Wind Screen -- ($3)
(Total - $86)
One Person - w/ XLR interface:
BEHRINGER UMC22 Interface -- ($60)
Behringer Ultravoice Xm8500 -- ($20)
Audio-Technica ATH-M20, Can use any headphones -- ($50)
Knox Boom Arm -- ($50)
On Stage Foam Wind Screen -- ($3)
(Total - $189)
The first group is "as cheap as you can get" and still get decent quality. The second group is definitely a better setup.
Ethan cohost of the Shieldwall Podcast https://shieldwallpodcast.podbean.com
EDIT: The second group is definitely a better setup in that it allows you to upgrade down the road with better gear. If you have the money an Audio Technica ATR2100 or AT2005 would sound a good bit better in the second list than the XM8500. But do these sound 4 times better considering them being 3-4x the price? Hard to say.
With a $500 to $700 budget I might suggest the following. Steer clear of the "packaged podcast stuff". And others will have their own opinions and thoughts but here are mine.
Recorder: Zoom H4nPro $230. Portable, flexible, will accept up to 4 inputs. Records on a SD Card.
Software: Audacity. It is free and allows you to manipulate and put together a cohesive product.
Mics: 2 of the ATR 2100 USB $150. Again, flexible and a decent beginner mic.
Accessories needed. 2 wind screen/pop filters for mics ($20), 2 mic stands ($20), 2 XLR cables for mics ($25)
Headphones: Sony MDR7560 $80 2 might be nice, but 1 required.
That is about $550 to $600 at this point.
If you wanted a studio mic, a decent starter mic is the MXL 990 at $100/ea. But beware that this is a condenser mic and it will pick up a ton of ambient sound especially in a non-treated room.
You may want to add a mixer into the mix at some point. I have a Behringer Xenyx 1204USB $139, but wish I had known more when I bought it and I would have bought the Behringer UFX1204 with the difference being that the one I have sends out a single stereo track to the recorder, but the latter has the ability to send separate tracks. Woudl be very handy if your guest is VERY soft spoken, there is a lot of talk over one another, etc.
Just a heads up: The seiren bundle is almost like the Beats of microphones. Okay not that bad, but still. It looks good (if you like a big razer logo on your mic). The features don't come close to matching the price though.
50% off makes it a reasonable package, but at stock price its essentially a much more expensive Blue Yeti. The reviews for the essential hardware lead me to believe this one gets a little thin if you compare it to the audio technica USB mic at the $130 pricepoint..
As for the pop filter and shock mount, as I have mentioned elsewhere, Your biggest reduction in unwanted sound will come from getting a boom mic. It reduces vibrations and, more importantly, allows you to place the microphone at a proper distance from your mouth. With the proper placement, the mic signal is hot, so you're not turning up the gain to sound intelligible, which in turn increases the ambient noise. The pop filter can be useful, but the seiren filter is needlessly expensive, for something you can make at home. Shockmounts will be relevant only if you for some reason need to adjust and move the mic stand all the time. A boom stand eliminates the need.
What I'm saying is, although you're technically getting a deal, There are other choices you can find with more bang for your buck, if all you need is a mic to record your voice for gameplay streaming or VOIP for games. If your budget is $150 dollars I would say to get either the audiotechnica (a reputable and affordable audio company) or the Blue Yeti, and buy a heavy duty boom mic stand.
Now don't let me stop you from spending the money the way you want, but I just thought I would throw out my two cents on the matter since I had the time.
[EDIT] Just throwing this out there, I would buy this mic before any of the ones we talked about: http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATR2100-USB-Cardioid-Dynamic-Microphone/dp/B004QJOZS4
or this: http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT2005USB-Cardioid-Dynamic-Microphone/dp/B007JX8O0Y
I've been researching this topic recently, and pretty much settled on this product:
Your choice may be different depending on how noisy your environment is, and your budget. Many people will swear by XLR interface, but then you need need to count A/D converter into the cost.
On the other hand, you can probably get some benefit for as low as $20 by ordering condenser mic from aliexpress.
First, what are you planning to connect from your Focusrite Forte to your speakers?
Main issue with using separate inputs to the monitors is that you won't be able to control the volume independantly. I would suggest getting a mixer to put in between the speakers and everything else in the setup you are trying to achieve. Input form tt>preamp> mixer and computer>mixer to output directly to the speakers. This will also allow you to control the volume of everything independently. Especially since the volume control for the ROKITs is on the rear of the unit.
This is a general answer to your question. I have not looked into your budget and what you can get for it, I am assuming this budget includes TT? If so, off hand, I can suggest an atlp120 (~$250), use the built in preamp, and getting a small mixer (~$40 -$100) 5 channel 8 channel.
This was a surprise to me, too, when I got my first Volca after collecting a few Pocket Operators. They still play nicely together, but not in the same way. If you plan on getting more Volcas, a Volca Mix <https://www.korg.com/us/products/dj/volca_mix/\> may not be a bad idea (it can power three additional ones), though it is more expensive than other solutions.
Otherwise, there are a number of affordable mono mixers out there. I've seen people mention the Behringer Micromix before <https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Micromix-MX400-Low-Noise-4-Channel/dp/B000KGYAYQ\>, but you'll need some adapters for 3.5mm to 6.35mm jacks. This will strictly be mono, however, so if you plan to add some stereo devices to the mix (pun intended), you'll hit a wall pretty quickly. Behringer has a range of other mixers, and you may want to check something out in the Xenyx range <https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-502-Premium-5-Input-British/dp/B000J5UEGQ/ref=sr_1_9?crid=120WM7ZC873VD&keywords=behringer+xenyx&qid=1555091076&s=gateway&sprefix=behringer+z%2Caps%2C160&sr=8-9\>, where even the lowest-end one (linked) will give you plenty of room to expand.
Personally, I just bought a Roland GO: Mixer <https://www.amazon.com/Roland-GO-Mixer-Smartphones-GOMIXER/dp/B01MYC4DVP/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=roland+go+mixer&qid=1555091001&s=gateway&sr=8-1\> to use between a Volca, a few PO's, and a microphone for straight-to-phone video/audio recording purposes, and I've enjoyed it. If you don't plan on recording things and just need something to mix, this will be super overkill for you.
For a few more bucks get a real mixer like this: https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-502-Premium-5-Input-British/dp/B000J5UEGQ. It takes stereo input from your drums and has pan controls.
As a professional Audio Engineer, I would go with the second choice. That being said, with audio gear you ALWAYS get what you pay for (if its cheap it will probably sound/feel like it). Also you could go for something that has Phantom Power already on it rather than buy another piece of gear, like THIS
The Behringer 802 is going for $65 at Amazon
That can do two mics on xlr and two more on 1/4" plug, all mixed and going to your computer via USB cable.
I was going to recommend the ATR2100 mic but I noticed they jumped from $35 to $60. I must have got mine on special.
Audacity is free and available for mac.
would this do well:
I use this Behringer headphone amp all the time. It has 1 xlr in/out and 1 1/4 in. And you can mix those to your headphone out.
As for the drum machine, I’d go out from that into the front of house board. Use a di box if needed. And then send that signal to the mix that you’re getting in your monitor from there.
I suppose if needed, you could run 2 of the behringer amps. Use the first for the drum machine (xlr) and your metronome(1/4). Send the xlr through to FOH and the headphone out into the 1/4 in on the second box. And use the second xlr in for your main monitor mix. And then headphone out from there to your ears. And that gives you control over all 3. But also at that point, I’d probably opt for an extra $10 and buy this 8 channel mixer
I have a pedal board (Muff, Klon Klone, Delay, Compressor) that runs into the effects loop of my Laney Cub 12R amp. I really can't crank this thing even 1/4 of the volume without my neighbor going crazy. I'd like to be able to:
A) Play this thing through headphones so that I can crank it up
B) Play along with a backing track that comes from my phone. Bluetooth would be a bonus if possible.
I was thinking that buying a small mixer like this could be a solution but I was wondering if there is any other similar gadget ($100usd or less) that would work. I know the sound won't be quite the same as I will use the external speaker out of the amp and into whatever I get. Any help?
For anyone interested on the rest of the items in this photo:
Looks a lot like this mixer. Seems to be a popular choice for gamers. I’m assuming mic is plugged in to the preamp and has his yamaha monitors plugged into the outputs. Not sure if what other things he has routed through it.
Behringer Xenyx 802 Premium 8-Input 2-Bus Mixer with Xenyx Mic Preamps and British EQs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000J5XS3C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Dgl1Bb88G4QEZ
Yeah, that list contains a set of quality sound cards, but you should ask your friend more specifically what he needs recording-wise. If he needs to record something like 4 devices at once, he might just need a hardware mixer instead. Something like this.
You have the potential for noise. I've used it in a pinch, but long term, not so much.
Have you thought about getting a small mixer to handle the signal and the levels? Using a mixer would let you control the level of your sub separately. Depending on your budget, you can easily make something work.
Cables for mixer to JBL: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-STX-110M-XLR3M-Balanced-Interconnect/dp/B000068NYY/ref=sr_1_3?s=musical-instruments&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1502931800&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=trs+to+xlr
"FX" output to sub: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-TRS-202-inch-Insert-Cable/dp/B000068O1K/ref=sr_1_3?s=musical-instruments&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1502931836&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=trs+to+rca
Your two questions have a common answer: a mixer will make your life easier.
Here's an unexpensive one with some room for growth.
If you are doing three lavs, you need some way to mix them, so you can pan them where you want in the mix - position them in the audio mix, like you see them. Here is a mixer ($65) that will do what you need: http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-802-Premium-8-Input-Preamps/dp/B000J5XS3C/ref=pd_cp_MI_0
No, I don't think that's redundant. If you don't need one with a phono stage integrated, all you need is two separate stereo outputs in order to be able to control your gear to get maximum advantage. Now you're splitting up the stereo signal, which will definitely reflect badly on the playback of the music.
If you hook it all up to a mixer, you'll be able to send the signal wherever you'd want to, in stereo. I really think this might be an elegant solution to get the most out of your current setup. It doesn't have to cost that much. Looking to it in hurry, I'd say this Behringer could be up for the job. It seems to be having two lines out. You should decide on the best mixer according to your own gear and the inputs/outputs it has, but just to give you an example that it doesn't have to cost you an arm and a leg.
I guess a mixer maybe.
But honestly you should really just use a DAW and a sound interface to record the guitar. It sounds like you're trying to use your OP-1 like its a DAW and thats simply not how it should be used for. Its a synthesizer and sampler. You'd be better off recording into a cheap standalone recorder then to use the OP-1 as a recording tools. Its better at taking samples.
But the mixer would at least allow you to plug both your mic and your guitar into the OP-1 and manage the levels of each. But be careful I've heard that ghost power can blow out the Op-1. I'm not sure if thats input or output that does it.
You would want a mixer similar to this: https://smile.amazon.co.uk/Behringer-802-Input-Bus-Mixer/dp/B000J5XS3C/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1525617928&sr=8-6&keywords=audio+mixer&dpID=61W&#37;252B4lk8wqL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
Using lines 3/4 for PC audio and 5/6 for the turntable. Then main out to your speakers. Unless your wireless headphones have any kind of line in jack on the transmitter then I would assume that it is not capable of being used with a mixer.
I was thinking possibly 50/50. I bought a Blue icicle and the PX22 amp. I have a question though, is this interface a good interface? It seems to have 48v phantom power and I would assume that it is much more reliable than the icicle
Wish I had seen this before I bought a Behringer Xenyx 802 and an Audia-Technica AT2035. I just can't get rid of all of the background noise from my wife in the living room with me watching tv (an office would be dope but not right now).
While I personally have not used one. Google 3.5mm 2 in 1 out mixer
here is one I found on amazon that should get the job done. Look around for one you like in your price range.
Edit: looks like the reviews say that one sucks but just use it as an example for what you need.
Here’s a super simple mixer that will mix up to four inputs down to one. You’ll lose the stereo this way, but it’s a really cheap and easy way to mix your volcas. You’ll also still need an audio interface if you want to record to your computer. But you could get away with a single channel interface. Again, this would mean losing your stereo image.
For non-simultaneous playback:
Here's what you could do:
Buy one 3.5mm Stereo Male to Two RCA Male Splitter Cable, and one 2 x RCA Male, 1 x 3.5mm Stereo Female, Y-Cable 6-Inch. Also get a 3-Way Audio Video AV RCA Switch Selector Box Splitter. That all together is $9.82 US.
Connect the xbox to your TV as normal. Use the RCA cable included with the splitter to connect your TV's audio output to the Splitter's Input 1. You don't need to connect the yellow video connection on that cable. Then use a male 3.5mm Stereo to RCA cord to connect your laptop/iphone's headphone jack to the Splitter's Input 2. Plug the 2 x RCA Male, 1 x 3.5mm Stereo Female, Y-Cable 6-Inch cable into the Splitter's Output, and connect your headphones to the 3.5mm female end. You should then easily be able to switch between ipod/laptop and xbox/tv sound feeding to your headphones by adjusting the splitter's output switch. This is a very basic setup, but should achieve what you're going for as long as you didn't want the two inputs playing simultaneously.
For simultaneous playback:
Here's what you could do (I admit this is probably a bit of a wrap around way of doing it, but it was fun to come up with):
Two Behringer MICROMIX MX400 4-Channel Mixer, one 3.5mm Stereo Male To 2 RCA Male Cable, one Male RCA to male RCA cable, one male RCA to female 3.5mm cable, six 3.5mm to 2RCA female adapter, and six 1/4 inch to 1/8 inch stereo jack adapters. This setup without shipping and handling costs $75.55 US.
This thing only outputs in mono though, so it doesn't benefit your headphones greatly (only one side will play sound). This is why we're gonna get two of them though, and this is the fun part. Check out this picture: http://i.imgur.com/UPMX5j2.png. It has the steps included with a crude illustration. The benefit of this setup is that you can have the ipod/laptop coming in at a different volume than the tv/xbox. Also has space for two more inputs if your ever have more you want to plug in (or to allow a laptop and ipod to be plugged in at the same time).
I... I think that setup would work.
A cheap sound mixer, maybe? Something like this would do the job.
tl;dr maybe try separate outputs for each pickup
If you want to go for something unique and versatile without spending much cash, you can go for a two-output configuration. On the Fender Jazz, this would involve putting a second output jack where the tone knob currently is. You can decide how to wire up the remaining knobs... maybe you don't need volume control for one pickup, but you do want tone control for it, or maybe you don't need tone control at all.
The idea is to have one pickup going to one output, and the other pickup going to the other. That way, you can put the effects on the sound of only one pickup.
I do this on my main bass. It has a fat mudbucker at the neck position, and it has a P-style pickup at the mid position, and the P-pickup is wired to a 0.0047 μF capacitor to kill the low end, so that it doesn't interfere with the mudbucker. The mudbucker runs clean to provide a huge low end, and the P-style pickup runs through an overdrive pedal to boost the treble and add some crunch, and also a phaser when I want something a little different. This way, all the effects only act on the attack and the fret buzz sound, while the low end can just be what it is.
Maybe you want something different, like putting thick fuzz on the neck pickup while the bridge pickup provides a clean, treble-rich attack with a little bit of chorus. Maybe you set up one pickup with a reverse tone knob... if you wire it up like it's a volume knob, and then bridge the terminals with something like a 0.0047 μF capacitor, you'll have a knob that turns down the low end while leaving the high end. There's a lot you can do, and this is a fairly easy mod that's fairly easy to undo if you don't like it. But if you like to use a lot of effects, having two signal chains with different frequency profiles can provide a lot of versatility.
If you have two amplifiers, great, but to combine the signals for one amplifier, you'll need something like this, which runs about $25: https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-MicroMIX-MX400-Low-Noise-4-channel/dp/B000KGYAYQ
Here's the thread where I describe the two-output mod I made to my bass: https://www.reddit.com/r/Bass/comments/5mn5my/gave_my_cheap_ibanez_a_new_paint_job_a_second/
When buying a new bass, the biggest thing to look for is how it feels. You can always change pickups and electronics and such, but finding a bass that's just fun and comfortable to play is the challenge. If you're interested in a Rickenbacker, it already has dual-output capability, so go to the music store with your pedals, and try a bunch of configurations with the effects, and you'll see what's possible.
I bought this for the same reason: https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-MX400-BEHRINGER-MICROMIX/dp/B000KGYAYQ/ref=sr_1_20?ie=UTF8&qid=1536029059&sr=8-20&keywords=audio+mixer+4+input
Try one of these instead.
I don't know about availability in Finland but in the US HART Mini Mixers, BEHRINGER MICROMIX MX400, or Rolls MX42 Stereo Mini Mixer.
You need a basic mixer.
So far I have 0 pedals, but I'm wanting to do a Royal Blood setup, maybe playing just "rhythm guitar" for worship services. I was thinking that my best bet would be
ABY switch->Darkglass preamp for the bass side
ABY switch->micropog->pitchfork->Darkglass preamp for a guitar side
Run both lines into a mini mixer
and then a 10 band EQ and maybe a looper, and then out to an amp, DI, whatever.
Since then however, I've been considering the Helix or HX Stomp, and using Ableton Live/FL studio for the rest.
That would save me a little money and work but I'm not sure how functional it would be. Having no hands-on experience with any of this equipment means it's all theoretical for me so far. Help.
Seems like you might need two small mixers to add. Something like this (https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-MX400-BEHRINGER-MICROMIX/dp/B000KGYAYQ/ref=sr_1_14/147-2558779-3051412?ie=UTF8&qid=1541178058&sr=8-14&keywords=2+Channel+Audio+Mixer) You and your friend would each need one, but using that mixer as an example; run from the USB mixer monitor outs to input 1, your game PC to input 2, and even the stream PC audio to input 3 so you could hear notification alerts, etc.
get a cheap 3s lipo battery for an R/C car/pane to run this:
for a few bucks more this one runs off a 9v battery and has more channels
in the frequently bought together section you'll find the stereo splitter 1/8" stereo to 1/4" mono.
You're not going to find S/PDIF since that requires a lot of expensive electronics (relatively) to make it work. Here are your options for ~20 quid
Not with the O2+ODAC. You'd need to buy a mixer. Something like this would work: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KGYAYQ/
Try a line level mixer ?
NVM about this particular model; it has a mono output. But this is the general idea- something to mix several line level signals down to one.
Honestly, the Splatoon headset audio mixer is your best bet.
There are PLENTY of other options for combining mic and system audio while retaining the microphone function, but none of them are un-powered AND this cheap.
Astro makes a line of 3.5mm mix amps which do work, but start at $130 and require a power source (USB would work)
You can get a semi-professional device for $65. But again, requires a power source.
There are devices that are equally cheap, but they do require a power source; and this one specifically also requires 3.5mm to 1/4" plug adapters.
So, an audio mixer, basically?
I don't know of any headphone sets that would have a mixer built in, especially given mixers generally want some sort of power source (and people as a general rule don't want to have to charge their headphones).
An aux input would be ideal for your needs, but if your amp doesn't have that then you need to mix the signals.
A cable like u/TheShakerDuster described exists, but it's more like two male 1/4" on one side and stereo aux on the other. Reason being that it is actually a two channels in, two channels out arrangement, with one 1/4" connected to each side of the stereo. Two inputs will not work with one output because it will allow the electronics at either side to interact in an unpredictable manner. It would connect your guitar directly to the headphone jack on your phone and vice versa.
If you want both your guitar and phone signals going into the instrument input of your amp then you're going to need a mixer. Here is an example although for your purposes you might be able to find one with a 3.5 stereo input, a 1/4" mono input, and 1/4" mono output.
You could use a small mixer and a headphone amp, especially if you have no intention of recording.
You'll want enough inputs for all of your instruments. If you have 4 instruments playing in your band then you'll need 4 input channels.
The cheapest way would be:
4 input mixer (all on TRS jacks - you would have to convert XLR to jack and you wouldn't be able to send phantom power to condenser microphones).
4 channel headphone amp.
Cable to connect the two boxes. The cable must be TRS otherwise you'll only get the left side or right side only - guitar cable wouldn't be great.
You would hear sound, it's cheap and compact. If you're willing to spend more money then you could get more expensive equipment. It wouldn't be pretty but it would do for starting out along with a sub £50 investment.
If you're looking for a simple 3.5mm audio splitter, they make those. I've heard you shouldn't have them funnel in from two line input sources because you could damage your speakers if more than one audio source was trying to push your speakers. Just don't use both your PC and CC Audio at the same time at a loud volume and you won't blow your speakers.
EDIT: To do it right, you need a mixer. Amazon has a couple options for $21 and $25.
^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?
That will probably not work that well - you'll have the output buffers on the two channels in the 720 fighting each other which could possibly (probably won't but tough to say for sure) damage the pedal
running it into a small mixer this or this are both options - there are plenty more out there
is probably what you want to do
Just connecting the wires together won't give you favorable results, you don't really have a choice when it comes to getting a mixer (they exist for a reason), it'll allow you to mix signals together and control volumes too. You can get something like this and it'll give you everything you need. You just need to get a couple of 3.5mm to RCA adapters and you're in business.
A Digital to Analogue convertor, it turns the binary data stored on your PC into an analogue electrical signal, every digital device that can output audio has to have one.
The ones built into old motherboard tend to be atrocious with an awful SNR (signal to noise ratio).
Picking up an external DAC or headphone amplifier will fix your issue, as the noise is induced at this conversion stage.
This DAC is widely regarded as an amazing bargain, and it has a dedicated hardware control for your headphone volume, which is always really handy.
Click for Behringer UCA202
A review of the Behringer
i use a behringer uca202. its a usb audio interface that you can usually find on used sites for like 25 $. you could use it as a headphone amp too and itd be better than yr computers soundcard..
A simple audio interface: https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-U-Control-Low-Latency-Interface-Digital/dp/B000KW2YEI
with an RCA to mono 1/4" cable. The main output will be in the range you want. Configure as mono on the attached computer.
Don't use a headphone amplifier.
I've heard of their 3020, but supposedly the Concept 20 is the same driver in a different cabinet? The What HiFi review makes it sound like the cabinet alone is worth the price difference. That could be true, but I am not going to rely on their word for it. I think it would be best if you could arrange for an audition or, better still, buy them with a good return policy so you can send them back if you are not satisfied with them. This is the most reliable way you could test out 2 speakers because you know best what is important for you. As for bass, it is also part of the music and I feel a faithful reproduction is essential to the experience. I do not own a subwoofer myself because I am satisfied with my MB Quart 490 and their 7.5" woofer. The bass is present but not overpowering at all and it makes all the difference when listening to Pink Floyd or The Coup.
Anyway, what I meant was the audio files will be converted from digital to analog at one point. In your case, it would be the PC's onboard solution. Now, depending on your PC, your onboard solution could be great or it could suck (distortion/constant hum etc.) ! To get around this some people use the digital output on their PC (USB/HDMI/Optical) and the conversion is performed using another device. Since usually stereo amplifiers do not have any way of accepting digital input, the go-to choice is a separate DAC like Fiio D03K / Behringer UCA202. Some people also a get a headphone DAC like Fiio E10K because they need a portable amp for their headphone in addition to a DAC. Others may need more than just a DAC - for example there could be a need to take the HDMI input and send the video to a TV and the audio to speakers. This is where a receiver comes in. A receiver is basically an amp + many more options for inputs, but it could be overkill if you only need a DAC. Used receivers could be cheap, though, and they are quite popular because of the input options you get. Goes without saying that you may not need a separate DAC at all, but just something to consider.
Phew! Hope that helps! :)
This might be helpful
Despite the fact that both speakers seem to be a similar price, the Inclines will considerably cheaper and closer to your budget once you account for cables and a subwoofer (provided you actually need one).
Regardless of what you buy, I suggest first trying the speakers without a subwoofer to hear whether you actually miss the last bit of low frequency sound. Both of my suggestions produce fairly low bass, JBL 305 rated at 43 Hz +/- 3 db and who knows about the Inclines as Def Tech doesn't report frequency response using the standard +/- 3 db (most likely they reach somewhere in the 50s?).
For the 305s, you are less likely to need a sub. Also, connecting a sub to the monitors can be complicated and will depend upon your overall setup. A related issue is whether you will be using an external digital-to-analog converter (DAC) - I recommend you do so for the improved sound quality and that you get one with a volume control. I think the best value approach is buy a pro audio interface - these have a DAC, volume control, and the types of cable connections that would facilitate mating your monitors and sub, plus other features that are used by recording musicians. I have the Steinberg UR22 (paid about $115 shipped new off ebay) but you can do fine with cheaper options: Lexicon Alpha has been recommended https://www.amazon.com/Lexicon-2-Channel-Desktop-Recording-Studio/dp/B000HVXMNE/ref=sr_1_6?s=musical-instruments&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1472738288&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=audio+interface or the Behringer UCA202 https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=sr_1_5?s=musical-instruments&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1472738288&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=audio+interface
I went ahead and got the matching JBL LSR310S, but it is expensive ($400 usually but I got mine new on ebay for $279). It was worth it to me as I work from home and listen to some electronic music. Here are ebay listings now: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&amp;_sacat=0&amp;_nkw=jbl+lsr310s&amp;_sop=15 Monoprice has a studio sub at $220 that would work (http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=115&amp;cp_id=11504&amp;cs_id=1150401&amp;p_id=605999&amp;seq=1&amp;format=2 For cable connections it will depend on what audio interface you get (suggest you buy cables from Monoprice for their support - don't bother with Guitar Center or similar places as their cable prices are very high), however, I think you need the following: for the Behringer you have to use unbalanced connections, qty 4 TRS male x RCA male cables, a) connect the interface to your computer with the supplied USB cable, b) then connect the interface input to the sub input using two (left & right) male TRS x RCA cables, and c) then two more male TRS x RCA (one each, L&R) from the sub output to the 305s input. For the Lexicon Alpha, you would connect in a similar manner but can use balanced connections, total of 4 male TRS x male TRS.
For the Inclines and in considering your initial budget goal, you could go with any of the budget subs. My son has the Dayton SUB-800 http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sub-800-8-80-watt-powered-subwoofer--300-627 ($99 - $5 Labor Day coupon + $6.95 shipping). I'd spend another $20 and get the Dayton SUB-1000 because it supposedly goes down to 30 Hz http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sub-1000-10-100-watt-powered-subwoofer--300-628 You would need a subwoofer cable for the connection, such as https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-ULTRA-Subwoofer-Cable-Feet/dp/B003FVYXY0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1472740255&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=subwoofer+cable
As I mentioned before, one the nice things about the Incline is that it has a built-in DAC; however, the "manual" isn't very helpful - this review does a good job of explaining the source input hierarchy and how to engage the DAC (there isn't an input selection switch so you have to unplug cables to make sure the DAC overrides your computer onboard sound card - in any case, use the USB input or optical for DAC): http://www.audioholics.com/computer-speaker-reviews/definitive-technology-incline-desktop-speakers-review
Assuming you are recording with a computer, do you have an audio interface and/or a mixer with phantom power? If not, you'll have to confine yourself to USB mics. The one I usually recommend is the Blue Snowball, which is about $70 and works quite well for voice/narration. I have perhaps 20 mics and a decent home recording system but still use the Snowball for podcasts and quick projects sometimes because it's reliable, easy to setup, and sounds good for the price.
There's also a cheaper version (called the Snowball iCE) that is a simpler design with fewer features for about $25 less. I haven't used those but it might be worth a shot, especially if you're just doing a single voice in a quiet room.
I'd suggest a pair of headphones and separate mic like most people suggested. Sennheiser has a bunch of great headphones.
For a microphone, I don't really know any good ones that connect via 1/8"|3.5mm jacks, but I do know a good USB mic for around $70, the Blue Snowball.
I see a few people saying to get a clip-on mic, but if you are going to do that, I feel you might as well just go with a full headset.
Edit: It seems Amazon has a bundled deal where you can get the Blue Snowball microphone, Sennheiser HD 202 II headphones, and a pop filter for the microphone for just under $140. The headphones can be connected via 1/8"|3.5mm jack. Store page
Nothing for 50 bucks is worth your money.
If you just want decent/better than average USB mic, get the Blue Snowball
I bought this $150 desk (Dimensions
36" H x 56" W x 23.7" D<< The website is wrong on D, I remeasured). It holds Three monitors( two 23"'s and one 15.5"),mouse, keyboard(14.5"), 7" Tablet, Snowball Mic, and a pair of Fluance SX6's with room to put down a large book and piece of paper. I did removed the shelf that is on top, which left one little hole(1/3 of an inch) in the corner of the desk but other than that. It is a great desk.
My boyfriend went through security with this kind of ball-shaped microphone in his suitcase, complete with various wires (power/USB,etc) in a box. Basically showed on xray as what everyone pictures as a cliché-looking bomb.
Always nice to see fellow $30 planners. I'm also a big user of Google Voice plus Groove IP. Here is my current setup:
Personally, I recommend either the Blue Yeti or the Blue Snowball
I own and use the Blue Yeti, and my work places uses them too. They are wonderful mics, but are a bit pricey. I haven't used the Snowball, but it is still a great sounding mic. A good handful of pod-casters swear by the Snowball, and Day9, the Starcraft caster, also uses it for his daily videos.
I recommend the Blue Snowball for a budget recording mic, I love mine and know a lot of guys who don't record often enough to get a more expensive mic that use this one.
The Zalman Zm-Mic1 clips onto the wire of your headphones and is pretty good quality for under $10.
The Blue Snowball is a great desktop mic to start out with. It's great quality for the price as well. Many people use this when they are starting out and I think it is personally worth the investment. I have loved my since I bought it.
While thee AntLion ModMic are nice and allow you to use great headphones while gaming, I'd recommend looking into an alternative like the Blue Snowball Desktop Mic.
The reason why I say this is because the Mic cord on the AntLion will get tangled on your headphone cord unless you mod the two cables together. I personally prefer the Blue much more than my ModMic when paired with my DT990s.
Since you say you will be recording into your computer,without any other gear, then you would need a USB mic. The Blue Snowball is the mic I've been using for quite some time, and for the price, I love it. Bear in mind that there is no pop-filter on it. If I'm allowed to shamelessly self promote, this was recorded with a Snowball mic, and it sound fairly decent, though the mix needs some work.
Did some research. Found you three options.
Hope this helped!
You can probably find these for lower prices than in the links, but I'm just providing some main ones:
Headphones: Audio Technica ATH M50x: http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATH-M50x-Professional-Monitor-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR86
Mic: Modmic 4.0 (microphone that attaches to your headset): http://www.modmic.com/collections/frontpage/products/modmic-4-0
OR (you can mix-and match too. Like if you want the Modmic with the M50 or the Snowball with the M50x, go for it)
Headphones: Audio Technica ATH M50 (older version of the M50x I linked. Lower price and just as good. Only problem is that I can only find them in white, but you could probably find black versions on eBay): http://www.buydig.com/mobile/product.aspx?sku=ATHM50WH
Mic Blue Snowball USB Mic (awesome quality mic with 3 different recording signatures you can switch to. This is actually the mic I have and I use it for gaming as well as recording myself/my band playing guitar): http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Microphones-Snowball-Microphone-Textured/dp/B000EOPQ7E
Extra: Pop filter (you really should get one of these with a real microphone. They reduce the "popping" sound caused by the fast-moving air against the metal and pieces inside the mic that you'll get when yelling into the mic): http://www.amazon.com/Dragonpad%C2%AE-Studio-Microphone-Flexible-Gooseneck/dp/B008AOH1O6/ref=pd_bxgy_MI_img_y
Here's a video that kills 2 birds with 1 stone. It shows both what a pop filter does as well as shows you the Blue Snowball: www.youtube.com/watch?v=KREN_ojEnKo
If you decide to go with the Snowball (my personal recommendation. Even better if you play instruments and feel like recording) you pretty much need to get the pop filter. I'll answer any other questions too.
I wouldn't say they are worth it I use a blue snowball mic and a pair of brainwavz deltas and they work just as good as my gold PlayStation headset
I've had so many problems with Realtek drivers not registering headphone mics - sometimes it would work great, sometimes wouldn't work at all - that instead of trying to kill myself to use it, I just bought an actual microphone.
Blue makes a great USB mic that you've probably heard used before and didn't even know it
This is my setup, Headphones and Microphone The headphones may have been a little expensive, got them as a gift. Was interested in Aurvana 1 but it wasn't available anymore.
Like free standing? I use a BLue Snowball simple but works. IDK about recording.
Blue Snowball Amazon Link
Blue Yeti Amazon Price
I definitely think you should invest in a better microphone. If you can save up some money and get your hands on a Blue Nessie or a Snowball, it would be the best idea. They are relatively cheap, and you can plug them directly into your computer without the need of an audio interface (meaning they are USB microphones, not XLR). You also might want to invest in a better camera for yourself. I can see that there is some frame bleeding, and I can assume that you're using a webcam. Got an iPhone? Those work better than most personal digital cameras.
Are you capturing your game footage, video footage, and audio with the same program? (Programs like Game Capture HD can do this) If so, you have more control over your content if you record everything separately, then sync them up on editing software.
But overall, you have some great content! People will definitely enjoy your content more as you evolve as a Let's Player, and you'll definitely be able to grow your fanbase. Just keep yourself consistent and try to be as entertaining as possible.
For camgirling, you're going to want an external webcam and mic, regardless of what computer you choose
For webcam, start here http://webcam-review.toptenreviews.com/ , and this http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Microphones-Snowball-Microphone-Textured/dp/B000EOPQ7E is probably the way to go for a mic
For under 50? Most likely a blue snowball or a CAD U37
I could give you plenty of links to XLR ones but they'll cost you more than 50. These are your best bets for quality!
I know someone who has and likes this: http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Microphones-Snowball-Microphone-Textured/dp/B000EOPQ7E
I admittedly know very little about such things, but I'm guessing you need a USB mic since you probably don't have a dedicated interface, so I think this is a good option for you.
Blue Snowball is $53 new on amazon currently
The blue snowball is a very good microphone for the price...
>I can hear Ana farting two floors above me, 30 degrees to my south with these headphones, i can feel the rumble of the cheeks
> Mic Quality is excellent, check your polar pattern and you're good
> Don't break shit, these will last a hell of a long time unless you are smashing shit with a bat
> Get Velour pads for the headset and it's like clouds kissing your earholes, stock pads are shite.
> Refer to Ana farting on Sound quality.
>You don't need wireless, you don't wanna go anywhere, just sit and play vidya.
If you're recording youtube videos, it's worth it to spend a little more to get quality sound:
The Blue Yeti mics have great reviews and that one's on sale right now.
lurk /r/buildapcsales for more sales if you're not sold on that mic.
Another option might be to use your iPhone as a PC mic (never tried this on iOS, but I have done this on Android when I forgot my microphone at a friend's house).
No, I use a Blue Snowball mic.
Blue Snowball USB Microphone (Textured White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EOPQ7E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jnhSAb7M04MBN I recommend this great sound quality
the blue snowball gets a lot of recommendations.
Go for a Blue Snowball. It's an inexpensive USB condenser microphone with a -10dB pad mode that's great for loud room recordings. My buddies and I were in the same situation a few years ago, and we've used it to record pretty much everything we've done as a unit. Our workflow was basically position the mic, record into Audacity, and export as wav when finished. Here's one of many recordings we've captured with it.
The Blue Snowball is one of the most recommended mics here.
If you have any interest in a USB mic this one is pretty good for a cheapo http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Microphones-Snowball-Microphone-Textured/dp/B000EOPQ7E Blue makes the only cheap mics that are of any use.
C920. Buy once, cry once - the resolution is only part of the equation of good pictures across more than 3ft of distance. Do you have an area microphone for the table? If not, a Blue Yeti or Snowball will do nicely without breaking the bank (relatively speaking, in any case). You can use the microphone on the webcam, but all of them suck in my experience. Try it first, but be aware that you may desire more.
The go to usb mic upgrade right now is the Blue snowball.
I've gotten some pretty good results with this in the past if you can swing the cost.
I'm just starting out so I may not be the best help but here it goes...
We've done videos so far with either 3 or 4 people. We use the Blue Snowball Microphone and it's been pretty fantastic thus far. It's works great in groups.
We have that mic plugged into a MacbookPro (Which is hooked up to the TV) which is running the capture program Screenflick. Screenflick is pretty phenomenal and quite simple to use. The one issue is that it records both game audio and mic audio into one track so any kind of ducking or advanced editing isn't going to work.
That was our initial set up and it worked pretty well, however we ran into the issue of the mic picking up TV sound which made the videos sound... subpar. So I picked up a Belkin 5 Way Audio Splitter which has been working flawlessly so far.
I have a relatively simple set up but it's been pretty powerful so far. Let me know if you have any questions! :)
If you want to switch between the two you could use a small mixer. Use the headphone out for your headphones and the main mix for your speakers.
If you want a good and priceworthy mixer I can recommend
Your best bet is to save up a little more and buy a stand alone mic that will last years.
This mic you can connect via a usb and xlr. Once you buy this and save more money up you can buy a cheap mixer/preamp to connect this to. It will make your mic sound a lot better.
Scroll down and buy all 3 of the frequently bought together items for under 90 bucks. The arm, windscreen to put on the mic, and the mic.
When you're able to save up more money you should buy a preamp/mixer and use that xlr cable to plug into it. Here is a cheap one for down the road:
> without the studio guitar track
In that case you don't want any audio from the game, since the studio guitar will always be in that mix.
You have 2 real options, line out from pc to an aux in on your amp (if it has an ipod input for eg) then headphones plugged into the amp. In practise this can frequently have weird noise issues however, becuase the PC is grounded and so is the amp - it may not always sound right.
The "correct" way to do it is with a 2 channel mixer. Feed amps headphone out into one channel and the games audio out into another (stereo) channel. You would then use the mixer to adjust the levels of what you want to hear from each source. A quick hunt on Amazon brings this up - its along the lines of what you'd want for this task.
Update: I got that mixer. That thing is really awesome. You can tell just by the packaging and the weight of it - it's made really well. Fully worth what I paid, I can't even believe it was that cheap. It feels like more solid construction than the S4. It wasn't a $5 or so Y-cable or adapter from Monoprice, but it wasn't what I'd call expensive. If you need something to "combine" two analog audio signals, this is absolutely the way to do it.
That might work out better than what you have, but if you really want quality audio, you need to invest a little more into it. Getting a proper condensor mic like the Audio Technical AT2020 here would be a great place to start. You would then probably need an audio interface to connect it to like this or a mixer like this. Do your research and a lot of it. There are a lot of good options out there to improve your audio quality, but all options involve investing a descent amount of money as hard as that is to hear. Research, find what you really want no matter the price, and save, save, save until you have it.
Sounds like you only want to play sound from both places into one pair of headphones. One way like someone else suggested is to use an audio recording software to do that. Another would be to get a cheap mixer and input the output of the computer and the drums into it and mix it into your headphones. Something like this should suffice BEHRINGER XENYX 502 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000J5UEGQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_tJiZBb4ZEABBE
You might need a couple of these to go from 3.5 cables to stereo 1/4” for the board Hosa YMP-434 3.5 mm TRSF to Dual 1/4 inch TS Stereo Breakout Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010D0HO0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bXiZBb8B904E4
Strongly urge you not to use a condenser mic live, particularly with cheap sound equipment. You're likely to get huge problems with feedback, and with your budget you could easily pick up a different mic and still come out ahead.
Secondly, condensers are fragile. You need to be babying the shit out of that thing when you move it around.
Here's my suggestion:
Get an SM58 in your life. With this you can go straight into your amp with the right conversion cable (bypassing the need for a more expensive mic interface).
If you can't run dual inputs to your amp, you can get a cheap mixer like so and run both through it into the amp.
What you're asking for requires a mixer that has two inputs (1 for phone, 1 for second device) and panning controls for at least 1 input. On that mixer, your phone will be stereo panned but your other device will we panned to the right so it's only coming out of the right input. You'd be able to adjust the levels relative to each other however you'd like. You'd also need cables/adapters to match the inputs of the mixer.
The devices that perform these functions, such as the one below, are typically not under $30 or portable. I think you're asking for something that doesn't exist.
Honestly I don't know of any simple solution that doesn't involve a mixer, which are a little expensive. You can get one of these and then buy some of these. Then plug your switch into one input, your phone into another, and plug your headphones into the output. Then I'm not sure about the microphone, but at least you can hear both sources
In order to do that, you'll probably need something like this
Assuming i'm understanding you correctly, you would use the 3.5mm out from the TV to go into one of the in ports of the mixer, and then have another PC out (aux if it's there) to another port of the mixer. Then the headphones go into the main out of the mixer (or the headphone port) and the Mic can go directly into the computer (assuming you don't need it for the PS3).
edit: made a diagram
If you want a cheap hardware solution, you could always go with a cheap mixer that has a Right/Left pan such as the xenyx 502
That’s a phono preamp and totally not the right type of gear to use and will likely damage your speakers if you run a line level signal through it.
It’s designed specifically to amplify a signal from a turntable and also applies a layer of eqing to the signal in order to make records sound proper.
Get something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-502-BEHRINGER-XENYX/dp/B000J5UEGQ
I have this set and its absolutely great, crystal clear audio in games. Picked it up to try and get into podcasting. I've also upgraded to a pair of Sennheiser HD 598s and they are wonderful, sound great through the Focusrite interface.
If you just need a cheap budget mixer for a few mics and game input I would look at this.
I love them, I use to use them for my DJ setup downstairs and recording. I use this http://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-2i2-USB-Recording-Interface/dp/B005OZE9SA They sound great though. If you were going to go with studio monitors, these are a great cheap option. I still prefer yamaha monitors though, thats why I have those downstairs for my DJ equipment =)
Nope, it would absolutely be perfect. Get a Scarlett 2i2 to start you off with a really nice, but basic set-up.
You can gradually move on from there.
Even just buying a second microphone, like a dynamic mic for other applications (plug for a SM57 clone) would make your versitility unbeatable on a budget.
You will learn a ton, and achieve pretty great sound if you work hard.
How about a recording interface? I'm asking for this.
I can only imagine that the PAD would shut them up. If your that concerned about picking up background noise in an open mic setting the only way I see to go about it is to have an audio interface (I have the modestly priced scarlett2i2 http://www.amazon.ca/Focusrite-2i2-USB-Recording-Interface/dp/B005OZE9SA which has wonderfully warm sounding preamps) and then a mic that hooks up via 1/4 inch or XLR. In which case you cant go wrong with a blue spark (http://www.amazon.ca/Microphones-Spark-Condenser-Microphone-Cardioid/dp/B004BR20OM) Which I love or even something cheaper. Ive had a couple apex mics around the 100 dollar mark that actually sounded quite nice as well.
EDIT-I can't spell
Unfortunately, with guitar interfaces, you get what you pay for.
And anything under $350 is going to have limitations and make compromises.
Cheap: Focusrite Scarlett 2i2.
Cheaper: Lexicon Alpha Desktop Recording Studio.
ASIO4All if the drivers suck.
If you find you want to record, get Reaper.
Free to try, cheap to own.
Let's start by breaking down some terms and what gear you need.
Assuming you're using a computer as a source, we start with a DAC. Your computer will have one built in, but external ones may be more transparent or perhaps just have more features you need. The DAC takes the 1's and 0's from you computer and turn it into a weak analog signal.
All speakers require an amplifier (amp) which amplifies the signal from your DAC. These are what will be powering your speakers. Active / Studio speakers generally have the amplifier built into the speaker, while passive speakers require an external amplifier.
There's a couple of difference ways to add headphones into the mix, but a Audio Interface is likely the easiest way to switch between the two. If your headphones require an amp as well, something like a Schitt Fulla 2 acts as a DAC, Headphone amp, and has line out to control the volume of your speakers.
Shit, so I just gotta get this here thingamabob? I'm down, absolutely.
ELI5: If I get this doodlygadget, (plus a audio cable, right?) then I will have the capability to: hear the sounds that I can hear right now on the monologue, directly on Logic Pro X. And to do that, I would need to: plug in the MIDI cable that I already have, AND plug in the audio cable, THROUGH the doodlygizmo, and then plug THAT into the computer. Am I correct? So do I actually need two more cords, to send audio through the interface and then into the computer?
Man I am in over my head
But I have so many ideas for cool music I gotta do this
Not sure how you're able to speak while monitoring with latency, it's incredibly distracting. In fact, this is how speech jamming works.
Like /u/JeamBim pointed out, you need an interface which has direct monitoring of audio before it goes to your computer (such as the Scarlett 2i2)
The cheapest option would be to not use headphones at all but if you need to hear audio from your computer, you'll need to get something to monitor.
Hey, I'm kinda in the same boat, I'm going to buy some Monitors, and I need something for the PC to make it worth it. I'm sure your PC already has some kind of sound card, but I'm guessing it's just got a 3.5 mm stereo jack.
You could get a splitter e.g.:
Then you need to convert the RCA to TRS (that's the only input, right?), you could use something like this:
So - this MIGHT work ok, but it might not as well. Two reasons:
So you might find you aren't happy with the setup. The next step is to get some kind of Audio Interface (fancy name for sound card) that's designed for this kind of thing.
Just getting a dedicated audio interface will improve the sound a lot. You could get one with unbalanced outputs - just RCA out. Since your monitors are so close it probably won't matter.
Here's the cheapest I could find that does have balanced outs, but there's probably others:
The plus side is these things usually have a separate headphone output and volume control, which is super useful if you just want to listen through headphones for a bit and not use the speakers.
Hope that's useful.
For $400, you could either go with bookshelf speakers + an amplifier though someone else would have to fill in the suggestions on that route for me. You can also go with powered monitors (meaning that they're already amped) such as the JBL LSR305s. Keep in mind that you'd need to make sure wherever you purchase these from that they'll come in a pair as studio monitors are sometimes not sold in pairs. As for a cheap interface to connect it, the Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 is a solid purchase. This example specifically is about $260 for the speakers, and $150 for the interface so just at about $410. Keep in mind there are many cheaper interfaces you can use or even just a DAC such as this one which would be cheaper by a decent amount.
Either way, both options would be far, far better than the Audio Engine A5+, imo.
I've been looking to get a pair of JBL 305s myself. I agree with others here that the hissing is likely due to using your on-board sound card versus an external USB DAC. Although you are likely using these studio monitors for listening rather than recording, a lot of people seem to use a USB audio interface with monitors like the Scarlett 2i2 that acts as a DAC with instrument recording capability. It has balanced 1/4" TSR outputs for monitors and if you ever decide to get an XLR condenser mic it has the input for that too.
It might be overkill for just a listening setup, but it's cheaper than an Audioengine D1 DAC. I can't speak to the quality difference since I own neither, but it seems you'd get a lot more for your money with the 2i2. Some comments I see is that the 2i2 doesn't have a very robust headphone amp built in for higher impedance headphones, though the same is likely true of the D1 DAC since it is also USB powered.
Love my 2i2.
Apparently there's now a rev2 available, not sure what's different from the rev1 I have.
There's also a single-preamp version for under $100. Guitar/line-in like what OP is using don't need a preamp so this might do the job well for him. If it was available at the time I purchased I probably would have gone this route.
M-Audio Firewire 410 . It's the audio interface that runs the Rokit 8s
It's pretty old and no longer supported by its maker. I've replaced it with an Scarlett 2i2 USB audio interface.
Spend a bit more and get this guy.
I just ordered this. It seems to have really good reviews
I'd go with this:
1.) Yamaha HS80Ms ~$500
2.) Shure SM57 ~$100
3.) Gauge ECM87 ~$150
4.) Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 ~$150
5.) ART Tube MP ~$40
Then I'd probably use the remainder to get odds and ends like stands and cables, etc. But with that, you should be able to make some killer stuff. Industry standard dynamic mic, high-value U87 clone condenser, really nice entry level interface, decent tube pre, and the crowning jewel being those HS80s. You'll be able to record your guitars and bass and mix all your tracks easily with this set up.
This guy here is awesome!
Sure, you can find cheaper M-Audio and knockoff ones, but the preamps in focusrite interfaces are worth every single penny! I used an M-audio Mobile pre for three years and it got the job done, but I didn't know what I was missing till I upgraded to Focusrite, I wish I did it right from the get go.
The advantage of this type of interface is not only can you record Bass and Guitar, you can also record at Mic level, so you can plug in a microphone with an XLR to record, even a condenser that requires phantom power. As well as line level, which would be like keyboards or an already DI'ed signal.
If you plan on recording your own stuff, even if it is just for demos/ personal use, an interface like this will make a world of difference and will help you realize your potential as a musician.
As everyone else is saying there are a ton of choices. If you are sure all you want is two channels for recording I would go with a 2 Channel USB interface such as the Focusrite Scarlet which is only $150. For a live multitrack like you describe that's what I would choose.
However, whenever someone asks me about what interface they should get I always say, "Plan for the future." Sure you only want 2 channels now, but in the future are you going to want more? Are you going to need MIDI or Digital Ins? A 2nd monitoring path for two people recording? Like kim_otcj said, If you buy for the future you'll save money in the long run.
Why are there still fake-real knobs and such? Because.....
There was a long time where analog was it. It's all there was. 4, 8, 12, 16 track analog recorders. Behemoths of recording consoles. If GWA existed somehow in that day, we would all own little 2-track recorders, a small mic pre-amp unit, and a microphone. And you'd maybe have an analog EQ and compressor, big physical units that looked like this.
So when everything went digital, a decision was made. To preserve brand identity and user familiarity, they copied the physical unit into a digital VST application. Compare This real world Shadow Hills Compressor unit with The Shadow Hills Compressor Plug-in.
There isn't any reason beyond that. There is reasons to choose analog or digital, but not to have a UI reminiscent of analog units.
As far as heaphones go, I'll take you through what I own, and what I use most.
Sennheiser HD 650
Sennheiser HD6 MIX
These were gifts through a brief endorsement deal I had, and I run these through this headphone amplifier
For higer-end earbuds, I use Sennheiser IE 60's and Sennheiser IE 80's. These I primarily use for simple editing on the go, giving to performers to use on stage or using myself on stage, or for women tracking vocals or instruments who don't want to mess up their hair with big over-the-head headphones.
But, my most used setup, what has become my dream setup, and the one that I will always reach for first, is far from the priciest.
Sennheiser HD 280 Pro, run out of the computer through a Focusrite Scarlett 2i2.
This is my favorite setup. The 280 Pro's are $100, the Scarlett is around $150. The headphones are crystal clear, have tight response all through the spectrum, are rugged enough to get chucked the fuck around, are comfy, and come with a great quality screw-on adapter so they able to be used into a 1/4" connection or a standard 1/8" headphone jack. Their impedance means they don't need an amp and can be used as normal headphones. They sound JUST as good as pairs ten times their price, and they have a certain special something to their super-low end and high-mids that I haven't found. Go get these today. Trust me.
The Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 isn't used as an amplifier in this case, since the 280's don't need it. It serves as a USB feed out, with a nice little volume knob. USB out will always trump 1/8" headphone jack out audio. Plus, the 2 inputs are nice to have. I own two of these units, and one always travels with my laptop for an easy, portable solution for HQ audio monitoring, easy L-R in recording from a sound board, or easy audio out from my laptop.
Together, these things have a certain magic, and I don't have to break my bank or handle them like china dolls. They're both rugged and sound AMAZING.
EDIT: I forgot my in-ear molded earphones. I own a pair of Alclair Reference IEM's. They are a great price, sound incredible for stage or studio, and I got mine with wood backs and DAMN are they sexy.
Well, I decided to provide you with a cheaper suggestion compared to /u/Du6e great suggestion.
I did include a external
I changed a few parts to reduce noise.
I will also provide you with a couple of great guides to help you build the PC.
As for the Focusrite audio recorder.
Here is a great video explaining and showing you why you want this.
Here is a review of the one that I am suggesting. A slight amount cheaper compared to the one used in the video above.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU | Intel Xeon E3-1231 V3 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor | £217.76 @ Dabs
CPU Cooler | CRYORIG M9i 48.4 CFM CPU Cooler | £16.49 @ Ebuyer
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-H97-D3H ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | £85.98 @ Ebuyer
Memory | Kingston HyperX Fury White 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory | £60.99 @ Amazon UK
Storage | Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | £117.00 @ Amazon UK
Storage | Western Digital Blue 2TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive | £53.94 @ Aria PC
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Superclocked ACX 2.0+ Video Card | £528.53 @ More Computers
Case | Fractal Design Define S ATX Mid Tower Case | £58.96 @ Aria PC
Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | £74.99 @ Amazon UK
Monitor | Dell U2515H 60Hz 25.0" Monitor | £265.86 @ Aria PC
Monitor | Dell U2515H 60Hz 25.0" Monitor | £265.86 @ Aria PC
Sound recording| Focusrite Scarlett 2i2| £99.00 @ Amazon UK
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | £1845.36
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-01-22 09:11 GMT+0000 |
Now before you have a look at all these guides. The best guide in most cases will always be your MANUAL. Some manuals are garbage, but most of them are more than good enough to be able to help figure out most problems.
There are a lot of different build guides on the internet, but I really like this one. It's easy to follow.
It's only recommended to buy when you either have very bad temperatures or when you want to overclock to the extreme. The temperature difference between the best and the "worst" thermal compound is a couple degrees Celsius.
Be careful though! More is not better! It needs to have enough, but too much will dramatically increase the temperatures of the CPU. Thermal compound helps with the contact of the cooler + the CPU. The CPU + heatsink both have microscopically small gaps, which the thermal compound fills up to let the heat get too the heatsink.
Hope you like it and If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask.
This is the best option I've seen although, I'd go for a cheaper MOBO and i5 4460. Audio production is definitely not CPU intensive nor do you need fast memory (or a lot) but I can't speak on photoshop. As for Audio Production a DAC and Soundcard is not needed. Balanced headphones (ATH-M50x) definitely are but you also need a Audio Interface, the Scarlet 2i2 is very popular (You can probably get it cheaper else where)
Does your amp have a DI out? A Scarlet 2i2 + Reaper would run you $210 and allow you to do everything you need. I honestly highly recommend Reaper over most other software. Once you've used a proper DAW you won't want to go back.
If you don't have a DI out on your amp it becomes much trickier. While you're fine mic'ing a guitar cab with an SM57 you may find it lacks low end with bass and something like a Beta 52A tends to be a lot more expensive. If you don't have a DI on your amp, your best bet would probably be to buy one, and a decent DI is going to eat your entire budget at least.
For vocals i'd recommend getting a Rhode NT1a. Pretty standard microphone and really versatile - http://www.amazon.co.uk/RODE-NT1-A-Condenser-Microphone-Bundle/dp/B0002PSCQM
You may be able to get a way with a Shure SM57 (for vocals) which is the industry standard microphone used for drums and guitars, etc... This will be your best option for guitar. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Shure-Sm57-Unidirectional-Dynamic-Microphone/dp/B000CZ0R3S/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1452608377&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=sm57
As for recording music into your computer, you'll need an audio interface. The majority of beginners on this thread are using Scarlett Focusrites. I'd recommend a Focusrite 2i2
If you want something a bit more 'all-in-one' then get yourself a Line 6 UX2 which comes with PodFarm 2.0 this will let you plug in your guitar and choose from a wide array of amplification emulation as well as pedals, modulations, effects, etc...
You'll also need a Digital Audio Workstation or DAW to record all of this into. I'd recommend [Reaper.] (http://www.gak.co.uk/en/line6-pod-studio-ux2/18736?gclid=Cj0KEQiA5dK0BRCr49qDzILe74UBEiQA_6gA-gBCk9lx0GnveFDFGFZYNA_DnIs7sX9ozCRg7TgEon0aAi1J8P8HAQ)
There's some great YouTube videos out there that will help you with all of this stuff. I'd recommend this guy: https://www.youtube.com/user/recordingrevolution
Your instinct would be correct (at least in my opinion). Make sure you buy a pop filter and a mic stand as well. An entry-level interface would be something like a Presonus AudioBox USB or the Focusrite Scarlett 2i2. I highly recommend the former (I have two musician friends who both have it and love it), also this bundle comes with the cables you need, some decent tracking headphones, and Presonus' StudioOne Artist DAW. So that's essentially everything you need right out of the box. I hope that helps.
I use a Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 USB interface which you can get for about $115 if you shop around. For a mic I have a Sennheiser e609 ($109) and a AKG P120 ($79) but the sennheiser is way better than that particular AKG. I use Reaper for recording.
Someone mentioned the little handheld digital units like a Tascam Dr-07. Those work pretty good but you have to then copy the file into your computer if you want to edit it.
Guitar --> 1/4" cable --> input on audio interface (scarlett 2i2) --> audio track in daw
I recently just bought an Imac and had a similar issue. I ended up getting a Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 and it's worked out really well for me so far. It has phantom power, two xlr/1/4 inch jacks, and plugs into your mac via usb.(it also comes with cubase and a it's own suite of reverbs)
I was in a rush so I got it at Guitar Center for around $150, but that seems around the price you were looking for.(I'll post the amazon link for you to check out)
I've also used garageband for years and just made the jump to Loxic Pro X. There is a bit of a learning curve to the new DAW, but not as bad as I thought and I'm really loving it so far.
Best of Luck!
Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 is the best budget interface. You can find them under $100 used.
Have you looked at the Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 2 In/2 Out USB Recording Audio Interface My manager who does music as a hobby loves this thing.
plug something like this into this and then run it via USB to your computer. any mic and interface will do, but those 2 happen to be pretty basic and easy to handle. as for software, i recommend Reaper as you can use it for free for awhile and pay once you've decided it's worth it (which it will be, so make sure at some point you throw 'em the cost).
point mic at amp speaker, select track on Reaper and press record. rock out like the glorious rock god you are, and then press stop. File menu>render (i think, can't remember right now)>pick format and save.
very, very rough walkthrough!
Beaky is right, at that price you can find an interface with built in pre's. Way better.
120 shipped with prime refurb:
Model up new shipped with prime for 138
These act as offboard sound cards, headphone amps, dacs and can drive 2 xlr mics in stereo. Way better deal/upgrade overall. You could probably find em even cheaper, I just searched 'focusrite' on amazon. The focusrite scarlet series is fantastic for the price.
I just got a new mic yesterday, the Audio-Technica AT2035 and a new interface, Focusrite Scarlett 2i2. I was super hyped leading up to it and it's one of the best purchases I've made in my opinion, and I'm still fine tuning things.
A device that turns the microphone XLR signal into the computer USB plugin. Here's one, but there are cheaper options https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005OZE9SA/ref=mh_s9_acsd_simh_boEu3_c_x_1_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_s=mobile-hybrid-3&amp;pf_rd_r=2CPG8HCA6JDFF2NFJ3JZ&amp;pf_rd_t=30901&amp;pf_rd_p=ee07def2-2960-57dd-bab4-05e4ca602ed0&amp;pf_rd_i=11973691
This isn't firewire, this is USB.
4.5 Stars on 129 reviews
Was virtually plug-n-play on my Windows 8 Computer, super easy to use.
I dealt with shitty drivers/support with my Mboxes and got this and have never looked back.
The thing about astroturfing is that you can never be sure which side is speaking truthfully and anecdotally, and which side is being misleading. I should have made that statement clearer, as it's not an attack on the Scarletts. I have never used one myself, and from what I've read, as soon as you start looking at the interfaces that are above $200-$300 all of the reviews seem to be from professionals that love them. Here are the 1-star reviews on Amazon, and here are the 5-star reviews. There are 250 5-star reviews to 25 1-star. Seems like a lot of the issues people have are superficial, poorly worded, and could be chalked up to user errors. Lots of amateur recording artists that don't know how to set up their I/O properly, rush to buy the best of the cheapest models and are upset that it doesn't make their mixes sparkle.
Astroturfing goes both ways. Sorry if that wasn't clear. I don't mean to shit on a product I have never used.
Here's the parts list. Every fan in the case (and CPU cooler) were replaced with 120/140mm Noctua Industrial fans. These things are awesome, hyper efficient, and can move a lot of air. They typically run under 1500RPM. The videocards are overclocked with MSI AB, +100 core and +400 mem, +120/90 on power and temp. The CPU is overclocked to just 4.375GHz.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU | Intel Core i7-6850K 3.6GHz 6-Core Processor | $599.99
CPU Cooler | Corsair H115i 104.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | $124.89 @ OutletPC
Thermal Compound | Gelid Solutions GC-Extreme 3.5g Thermal Paste | $12.99
Motherboard | Asus X99-DELUXE II ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard | $399.99 @ SuperBiiz
Memory | Corsair Dominator Platinum 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $262.69
Storage | Samsung 950 PRO 256GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | $186.99 @ SuperBiiz
Storage | OCZ Vector 180 480GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $178.21 @ Amazon
Storage | Intel 540s 480GB 2.5" Solid State Drive In Raid | $138.01 @ Newegg
Storage | Intel 540s 480GB 2.5" Solid State Drive In Raid | $138.01 @ Newegg
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 8GB FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card (2-Way SLI) | $679.99 @ B&H
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 8GB FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card (2-Way SLI) | $679.99 @ B&H
Case | Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX Glass ATX Mid Tower Case | $189.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | SeaSonic 1050W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $209.99
Case Fan | Noctua NF-A14 industrialPPC-3000 PWM 158.5 CFM 140mm Fan | $34.29 @ OutletPC
Case Fan | Noctua NF-A14 industrialPPC-3000 PWM 158.5 CFM 140mm Fan | $34.29 @ OutletPC
Case Fan | Noctua NF-A14 industrialPPC-3000 PWM 158.5 CFM 140mm Fan | $34.29 @ OutletPC
Case Fan | Noctua NF-F12 industrialPPC-3000 PWM 109.9 CFM 120mm Fan | $23.91
Case Fan | Noctua NF-F12 industrialPPC-3000 PWM 109.9 CFM 120mm Fan | $23.91
Case Fan | Noctua NF-F12 industrialPPC-3000 PWM 109.9 CFM 120mm Fan | $23.91
Monitor | Asus PG279Q ROG Swift 27.0" 165Hz Monitor | $799.00 @ B&H
Keyboard | Corsair STRAFE RGB Wired Gaming Keyboard | $129.99 @ Best Buy
Mouse | Corsair M65 PRO RGB FPS Wired Optical Mouse | $49.99 @ NCIX US
Mic | AT2020+USB with Auray pop filter
Webcam | Logitec C925e
Sli Bridge (coming soon!) | EVGA PRO SLI BRIDGE HB (1 Slot Spacing) Model 100-2W-0026-LR
The Elgato software has a MAC version, so you should just be able to buy an Elgato capture card, a mic, and have it work just fine.
As for a good quality mic, something like an AudioTechnica USB mic will be great quality, however it is a bit pricey.
if you want a cheaper but still decent quality mic, the Samson GO is actually really good for the money, and is what i use. if you want a sound demo of it i can make one, or i can link you part of one of my videos where i am using it to do commentary type stuff
Audio-Technica AT2020USB PLUS Cardioid Condenser USB Microphone is something I preferred over the Blue Yeti
At that price range there isn't much that is usually recommended. I'd personnaly go Audio Technica M40x or Sennheiser 518/558 if you can find some at <£100.
I have a pair of Audio-Technica ATH-M35.
I would rebuy them without any hesitation.
Looks like they're not available any more, but you can get the ATH-M30x for $55 on amazon. The ATH-M40x for $90 and the ATH-M50x for $120.
I'm really impressed with the M35, and the 30x is supposedly the newer version of it. If you want you can spend more money and get he 40 or 50, but I think you would have to take a hard look at the specs and understand the differences to justify it.
I've had mine for 4 years, used every workday. Continually solid.
I also have some Sennheiser HD205II, and a Logitech G930 with the 7.1 surround, mic, and wireless.
The Sennheiser are just not in the same ballpark, and are a very tight fit, leading to me not wanting to wear them for extended periods. The ATH I can and do wear all day. The logitech are mostly just for gaming and for taking advantage of the wireless (and for conferencing with work when I WFH).
Audio Technica ATH-M40x
takstar pro82 has that bass adjustment
However, I would strongly suggest you go to a store and listen to different headphones.
Should I get these or these while they're on sale? Mostly used for gaming.
Audio Technica's ATH-m40x. They're closed headphones that I've heard are great for the price. I don't have them but I do have the m50x's, which are the next step up in the series. I think the shp9500s are better than the m50x's in almost every way other than like the cables they come with.
I personally use [Audio-Technica ATH-M40x] (https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATH-M40x-Professional-Monitor-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR54/ref=pd_sbs_23_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B00HVLUR54&amp;pd_rd_r=ACMXT7QQSE8VYQABZRM2&amp;pd_rd_w=7Cem2&amp;pd_rd_wg=JoDlh&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=ACMXT7QQSE8VYQABZRM2). It has a strong build quality and the listening experience is amazing.
For your need, I think Audio Technica ATH-m40x with Brainwavz hm5 hybrid angled.
Total cost for both of this are around $130 but they are worth it.
The m40x are faily nuetral with a little bump on the bass. The imaging are good. The soundstage are quite narrow before changing the pads but after chaing tha pads thay are great for a closed back. Isolation are great enough to be used at noisy place like in a train. Comfort are quite back due to the clamping force but it will be fix after changing tha pads.
I've never tried the ws770 and anc27x so I can't really say anything about them.
Ok, i would recommend these http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATH-M40x-Professional-Monitor-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR54/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1418636015&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=audio+technica+ath-m40x
I'd say with EDM in general, go for headphones with high detail/a slight treble boost and pronounced bass. A good 80-90 dollar headphone for this might be the ATH-M40x's, cheap, reliable, and a good sound.
Bass presence is important, but the magic of Trance is in its ambiance and synthesis, things that really come to light (in my opinion) with high quality upper-frequency recreation.
I hope this helped :D
These will give you a phenomenal soundstage (instruments will appear to be separated spatially, giving the feeling of listening to a live performance from nearby).
These should have good bass.
This Sennheiser will give you god-level sound, but you'll need to use the equalizer if you want very strong bass.
I'm a big fan of these. If you can shell out the extra 50 or so for the m50x, I would recommend you do that.
I have this plugged into speakers, but plugging it into speakers doesn't matter. Windows volume is at 100%, Apex Legends is at 15% master 30% SFX. Another thing that doesn't matter is that Apex Legends goes into Voicemeter Banana before it goes into the headphones, but that doesn't change the audio at all.
So basically I have $100 headphones with Windows volume 100% in-game volume about 5%. But it's really loud for me, I think as long as you have headphones it should be fine.
I love my mouse. The only thing is that it is kinda heavier compared to other mouses. For headset, I would suggest getting something like an M40x and a modmic. This way, you'll get better sound and a better microphone. Unless you want a headset then I would say the Cloud II.
Check out the Shure SRH440.
EDIT: The Audio Technica M40X is built better and costs a bit less.
Forewarning: I'm only a hobbyist. If you want more info, definitely go to the subreddits I linked as well as the resources in their sidebars.
Video of SM57 and SM58 sound test starts at 3:30
With either of these mics you'll need an XLR cable
and a device to deliver phantom power to the mic. They're the same price but I linked to the SM58 amazon listing because that's the more popular one for vocals. These two mics are industry standards so you can't really go wrong with them.
Shure MVi Digital Audio Interface
When getting your DAW, I recommend getting some sort of microphone amplifier / hardware interface. I'm not too familiar with the budget options of these but if you have any questions about DAW hardware and software, head over to /r/audioengineering and post in the appropriate stickies.
I linked to this shure interface because it does both XLR (microphone cables) and 1/4" TRS (Guitar/instrument cables). I highly recommend reading reviews and opinions about it to see if it's the right one for you because, again, I'm not too familiar with the budget options in this category.
Which leaves $170 left in your budget for your choice of headphones and other gear:
Mic stands, mounts, cables, and pop filters can be pretty cheap, get your preference for your work space. Get a floating mount if you're having problems with translation through the stand. (I.e. desk bumps, people walking in adjacent areas, etc.) If you get a wire mesh pop filter, make sure it has a bevel around it (I've cut myself on mine too many times).
My recommendation for headphones would be some type of closed monitors. Audio Technica M-series headphones are popular entry level cans. If you have any questions about them or how they compare to other cans, head over to /r/headphones and post in the sticky.
As for the DAW itself, any decent computer will work fine for single-channel recording, these days. If your computer can run minecraft then it's more than enough.
What's important is that your software and hardware can use ASIO drivers. ASIO drivers will help reduce any latency on the computer's side, which is really helpful for live recording and playback. Definitely read up on how to use ASIO devices for live recordings. Depending on what you get and what version driver you're running, you may have to mess with the driver settings manually from time to time.
Audio-Technica-ATH-M40x are $115 on Amazon right now. I didn't want to make a thread because they're usually like $130 but now they're $115.
For under $100, I'd recommend this. Kind of a beginner level audiophile pair. Compact and durable, and you can expect borderline professional sound quality.
You'll probably get better answers on /r/headphones but in your price range, I would look at a good set of headphones and a separate mic which would still requires you to use a slitter.
Given a bit more budget, you might look at Blue (desktop) or ModMic (attachable) mics in the $40 price range.
Just fyi, the ATH-M40x is currently on sale on amazon. I think they've gone lower once(?) but this is a pretty good sale.
Easy solution for the future: Buy these and listen to music at a comfortable level, you won't really hear much from the other side of the wall anymore.
Get a decent DJ style headphone that folds up like the ATH-M40x and get a separate case for it. $95 total.
Just grab a pair of [Audio Technica ATH M40X's] (https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATH-M40x-Professional-Monitor-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR54) and an [Antlion ModMic 4] (http://www.modmic.com/products/modmic-4-0).
Better quality all around.
CamelCamelCamel │ Keepa
Price of a Pawn, value of a Queen.
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Okay, so it looks like I'm getting a pair of M40x!
My last question about them is: where should I buy them?
They're on amazon for $99, just the headphones, cords and bag
[Then there's this $99 bundle with a $30 amp (I plan to sell it, I know that an amp won't do much with these headphones)]
[Finally, there's this $109 bundle with a $40 amp]
Is there a better deal somewhere else? I plan to sell the bundled amp for about $25, so hopefully I'll get the headphones for about $75.
Also, I'm looking to add suggestions and bring attention to my poll on massdrop for entry level headphones that are less than $100! Any suggestions that you have are welcome!
if you want a seperated set : Mic , Headphones
I have Audio-Technica ATH-M40x Headphones for my USB Interface.
They work great, but I do not know how they compare to the other suggestions here.
I recommend them.
Just letting you know, at your price point you can get a refurbished pair off Amazon. GLWB.
M40X https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/offer-listing/B00HVLUR54/ref=dp_olp_used?ie=UTF8&amp;condition=used Go for a warehouse deal and it will fit your budget almost
I hate earbuds and wanted something nicer quality so I picked up these, Audio-Technica ATH-M40x and also got the shorter cable, it's perfect.
If you want to save a little bit of money I bought the Audio Technica ATH-M40'S
and they get the job done perfectly. They are not better than the ATH- m50s but they are still great amp headphones.
Audio Technica M40X. (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HVLUR54/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1)
Then, while still staying under your budget, treat yourself to some much better pads https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01J53KM32/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Mackie CR3's work well, had a roommate with them (and he was a professional musician). $120 for a pair.
Here's a few solid choices:
Mackie 3" (I have these and love them, though I kind of wish I got the 4" version)
Also keep in mind there is a bluetooth version of each of the Mackie's if that appeals to you. Mackie's customer service was good to me too. My CR3's started going out randomly around the time the 1-year warranty was about to expire and they sent me new ones for free. I've had the new ones for over a year and they're still going strong.
I would like to add music production hardware to this list. Since OP is gonna use it for making music, good speakers and a sound card are a must.
I recommend the UR22 sound card. It connects via USB to your computer has 2 ins and 2 outs and comes with pre-amps, which is perfect for the home studio (unless you're recording several tracks at once for drums). The UR22 comes with the Cubase 6 software, which is what I personally use. The Pro Tools Sound card is really expensive and harder to find. If you already have software you can still use the UR22. My only complaint is that the preamps are a little on the low side, but they get the job done on a budget, not really a big deal.
As for audio monitors, I really like the Mackie CR3s. You can get a pair of these for 99, which is great on a budget and still produce high quality sound. Monitors can get really pricey and take up a lot of space, if you want something of a higher quality you'd have to buy each on separately. Also get 2 1/4" cables to go out from the sound card to the audio monitors.
If you're dead set on just a single speaker, you could find some sort of iPod dock or Bluetooth speaker (like Bud said) with an auxiliary input to plug in the Chromecast. They're fairly common, and many are under $100. I did the same with my girlfriend's old iPod dock and it works great.
However, if you're open to 2.0, these Mackies are powered (no need for an external amplifier) and sound wonderful. Probably better than a lot of bluetooth speakers or iPod docks that are under or around $100.
Looks to be these.
For reference, most people around here just wouldn't consider $129 expensive. Most people around here probably aren't going to have very much experience with small plastic speakers in this price range.
However, there are lots of people here who listen to a lot of music at their computer and there are lots of solutions for that ranging from $100 to $10,000. If you're looking for an inexpensive speaker solution for a computer, these are a pretty good option. Cheaper than the T40 and will likely sound better.
You're going to need active monitors like these http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KVEIY4E/ which start at $100/pair
I have an lp60 (wanted to start small) and I bought Mackie CR4's from Amazon. They have been everything and then some.
Got my dad the same setup for christmas but with CR3's, watching the old man rock out to zeppelin IV was the coolest thing. The mackies sound good for the price.
Well your motherboard has a built in audio controller which is generally considered pretty good (unless you plan on doing high end audio work, e.g. audio production/mixing). These are quite good studio monitors in my experience for $100. They’re an active/passive pair so you plug your inputs into the back of the active speaker which will act as an amp and send signal over to the passive one. Basically this means you won’t have to buy an external DAC/amp to use these. I plan to buy myself a set in the near future as the cheap Logitech pc speakers I’m currently using are pretty not awesome.
Speakers (4" silver): https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-CR-CR3-Reference-Multimedia/dp/B00KVEIY4E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1488319509&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=mackie+cr3
Desk top: http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/60275223/
Desk legs: http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/80150095/
Im looking for a 100 dollars or less speakers for my pc!
Should I get Mackie CR Series CR3 - 3"
or one of these
Cyber Acoustics 30 Watt Powered Speakers
Logitech Speaker System Z313
please help :) any other suggestion is welcomed
Is that the specific audio interface you would recommend? What exactly should I look for in an audio interface?
I do have good over the ear headphones, also.
Would this be good?
Depends on your price range. I started with a Behringer UCA222 then upgraded via a Steinberg UR-22 which broke after a while. Now I'm using a Behringer UMC404HD which has lasted well so far. You could go for the smaller version, which is surprisingly cheap, if you don't plan on recording many instruments at the same time.
People say good things about the Focusrite Scarlett series as well. I've never used one but they are a little bit more pricey than the Behringers so I always end up with one of them instead.
The established brands like Ditto, Boss, etc are going to be $100+. You might take a chance on something like this, but I've never heard of them before.
You might also consider getting a cheap audio interface like this. Though, again, you may actually get better value by spending a little more money. Many interfaces come bundled with DAW (Ableton Live, ProTools, etc) software licenses, like this Focusrite.
It's not as easy as plugging a loop pedal into your chain, but you'll be able to do a lot more with your investment if you climb the DAW learning curve. There's plenty of free VST plugins for pedal and amp emulations out there. Even some free open source DAW, but I haven't researched what's available in some time. Ardour appears to be the top google result at the moment, though I'm not sure how suitable it is to playing live (vs. only recording for playback).
I would recommend getting a cheap audio interface and some versatile mic like a sm57. I have a 4 channel version of this interface and it's definitely good enough for my needs. The one channel version is only $30 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EK1OTZC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ll9YBbZ62BZ8E
BEHRINGER U-PHORIA UM2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EK1OTZC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_R7krzbMNWP0MW
The link probably won't help a lot, as I don't imagine you live in the US, but at least you can see the product! But Behringer has a good reputation for entry-level recording gear. You would still need a microphone and headphones if you don't already have them.
What do you want to use it for? Gaming? Singing? I'm no expert, but I might be able to point you at least in the right direction for microphones and headphones.
Save a little money for adapters, though. Most mixers and interfaces will want 1/4" or XLR inputs. Most consumer-level microphones will have a 3.5mm plug. Likewise, the output will likely need to be converted from 1/4" or RCA to 3.5mm
Edit: I added links to Amazon products that are pretty nice and fit into your budget, if none of these work or you wanted advice on finding similar ones on slightly cheaper budgets just let me know and I'd love to help out!
I realize some people like them, and I mean no disrespect to u/MNLegoBoy but please do not get him a steam controller. I own one and me and everyone I've ever known who used one absolutely hated it.
If he only has one monitor in his setup I would highly suggest getting him a decent second monitor to have discord, youtube, or whatever else he wants up while he plays. It can be really helpful and never hurts to have.
If that doesn't work, you know about his setup...
and he uses a headset with a built-in mic I would suggest getting him this microphone and this interface. Even though they're cheap they're more than good enough and make people feel more legit because they're more like a streamer setup.
and he really likes his headphones/has really nice headphones but doesn't have a headphone stand or mount for him to keep his headphones on and keep his desk organized.
and he's into fighting games or older arcade games you could get him a fighting stick (be careful on this one, if he doesn't have room or likes using his KBM I wouldn't suggest it. It might also help to get one on a higher budget.)
You'll need an interface. Something that has phantom power.
Something like this
Sacado del faq del server de discord de /r/microphones
How much money should I spend on a microphone
Usualmente recomiendan el Behringer c-1
Y necesitarías una interfaz con phantom power, la más económica que no es una basura es la Behringer u-phoria um2
Te recomiendo si sabes inglés le des una vuelta a su server de discord, sí ayudan y tienen un canal de "preguntas noob"
Best best is an audio interface. This one is $40 with a $32 used option, I've never personally used it.
This one is $40 with a $35 used option. I use it as a discord audio interface so I can use my nice mic on calls.
You're only spending slightly more than the adapter you're looking for.
Hey people of r/audioengineering, I'm new to all this, but I've ended up with a Sterling Audio ST51 Condenser Microphone. I was thinking I would do some streaming with it, and possibly getting into amateur voice acting as well.
The only problem is, I'm a little confused on how to connect it to my PC. I know a more expensive proper set up would have both a pre-amp and audio interface, but I'm not looking to spend a whole lot of money here. I was wondering what should I buy to connect the mic to my computer fairly cheaply? I've looked into some mixers like the behringer Q802, and I found this which looks okay, but I'm not very confident about it. Thanks for any and all help with this.