Powerline. I have this exact one. Works like a charm

Powerline Adapters are a blessing. I got the two-port version so I can have my PS4 and PC plugged in at the same time.

Here are all the ingredients, along with sauces to get it.

Raspberry Pi Zero - $5

2 x 8BitDo Zero Controllers - ~$20

USB OTG Hub - ~$1.60

Mini HDMI to HDMI plug - $0.80

32GB MicroSD Memory card $9.99

Almost forgot the Asus Bluetooth Dongle $12.95

You can probably get a cheaper ~$2.00 Bluetooth dongle on eBay if you want to save money. I just happen to have this one from a previous project.

Jaybird Earphone box - $0.00 - I had one in my house. Or buy one and get free earphones :-)

Total cost $50.34 or $39.39 (with cheaper bluetooth dongle)

Threw in Retropie and done.

The one interesting tidbit I discovered along the way is when I plug the micro usb cable into the OTG hub, the Raspberry Pi zero gets powered also. The cheap ass OTG Hub makes its easy to have ports mounted onto the side of the Jaybird box (or whatever box you have lying around, Legos maybe?).

Get something like this. It literally runs internet through the power cables in your house. Plug one next to your router with an ethernet cable, and one near you device with an ethernet cable. Instant internet.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-ethernet-Adapter-TL-PA4010KIT/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1543444947&sr=1-4&keywords=powerline+adapter

Don't use WiFi ever. Random packet loss will happen from simple interference. Its possible the two PS4s are interfering with each other.

Just use an ethernet cable to plug the PS4 into the router. If its not possible to run a cable then buy Powerline Adapters. I honestly don't know why these are not more popular. I had to use them for years until I finally had cables run throughout the house but they pretty much saved my life as I refuse to play any sort of online game with WiFi.

i will forever recommend a powerline adapter over a pcie wireless card or usb wireless adapter

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-Adapter-Starter-TL-PA2010KIT/dp/B00AWRUIY4?ie=UTF8&portal-device-attributes=desktop&qid=1497057976&ref_=sr_1_1&refinements=p_n_intended_use_browse-bin%3A9647497011%2Cp_89%3ATP-Link&s=pc&sr=1-1&th=1

Using a Plugable USB 3.0 Ethernet Adapter (ASIX AX88179 chipset same as the UGREEN), and have had the "Console warm to the touch when connected to ethernet in Sleep Mode" issue since the 5.0 patch. This did not happen prior to that patch. My understanding is that the change in 5.0 that caused this is that the Switch remains connected all the time while in sleep mode, instead of periodically waking for software update checks.

Unplugging the far end ethernet jack and leaving the ethernet adapter connected to the console will correct the issue, and the console will not be warm to the touch in this state. Which seems to suggest the issue is indeed related to the constant connection and update checks, and not the usb adapter itself being powered on while in sleep.

I do not have the other issue OP mentioned, my network switch still shows connected in sleep mode when plugged in, which is why issue #1 is present due to the constant connectivity.
I would like to see the port actually make use of its USB 3.0 hardware capabilities, but this is very minor, and only mildly useful for people with 500Mbps+ internet, and won't help gameplay much if at all, just downloads.

Please note that the official Nintendo Switch LAN uses the ASIX AX88179 chipset, which is basically the best one for the Switch to use and the one you should recommend. I would completely ignore the first LAN adapter you linked to, and primarily suggest the second one you linked to, or this one which is a few cents cheaper.

Jesus christ...

It's a USB wireless adapter people - it's not a modem. Yes, good wireless routers are theoretically capable of high speeds. Adapters not as much. None of this has anything to do with ISP speed. This entire thing reeks of peasantry.

Mother boards with WiFi have external antennas (scroll down a bit), they just screw on the back like any other WiFi radio. Bluetooth receivers tend to be no bigger than USB dongle ones but they don't take up a USB slot.

Wifi motherboards do not cost more than using an external card. WiFi LGA1151. Non-WiFi.. The 3 external adapters you linked cost $37, $85 and $108 respectively. The difference between two motherboards is certainly less than $85 for one with and without Wifi.

Additionally, if you notice most of the WiFi enabled motherboards are mini-ITX where space is at a premium. Using built in Wifi is a space saver. Rather than trying to cram another PCI card in your already limited space.

There are plenty of valid reasons to buy a motherboard with built-in WiFi, don't come at me with your bullshit.

It would be much better to get a powerline adapter. It essentially allows you to use your power outlets as really long ethernet cables.

Here are some examples from Amazon: 1 2 3

I personally use the D-link ones, the speeds are much faster than Wireless.

Ethernet over Power.

It's affordable and avoids running new wires.

Try wifi. I've been using it for a couple years on my desktop with 0 issue. Great speed and no connectivity problems.

You have to figure out what works in your setup. Many people recommend PCI adapters if you go wireless, but USB works fucking great for me. Very happy with this http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN722N-Wireless-Adapter-External/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1418551585&sr=8-3&keywords=tp+link+wireless+adapter

I got one of these from Amazon for $52.99 to extend the range from my crappy Verizon FiOS Actiontec router. The big difference is its not a repeater, but a range extender. At best, a repeater can only boost an already poor signal, meaning a slow connection, though stronger, remains slow. The range extender actually extends the wifi network itself.

With the range extender, one end connects to an ethernet port on the router, and gets plugged into a wall socket. The other end can be plugged into any other wall socket in the house. The two ends communicate via the electrical wiring (which is basically turned into an ethernet network between the two ends. The second end broadcasts a wifi signal with faster speed than the Actiontec wifi since its driven by one of the ethernet ports. Set it up in 5 minutes and works awesome. Gives me full coverage for a 3,000 sq/ft house. Highly recommend.

Wow, literally every comment in here so far is wrong...

Yes, OP, you can use the coax in your house for networking. What you’re looking for are MoCA adapters. I use them for backhaul between my pucks and they’re just as fast as Ethernet.

The only situation where they won’t work is if you have Satellite TV. DVB-T and MoCA don’t get along. If you have cable TV, though, you’ll be fine.

Ayyy I'm here to help.

Your power word is "ASIX AX88772" which is the chipset used in the official adapter.

This one works fine.

I'm using this and it works great. Sends Ethernet through your power sockets.
http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PA4010KIT-Powerline-Adapter-Starter/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=pd_sim_pc_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=13D3TNS9AF1GJJK3RK7K

Powerline Adapters let you use your home's electrical lines like makeshift ethernet cables: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-Adapter-Starter-TL-PA4010KIT/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1519569756&sr=8-2&keywords=tp+link+powerline+adapter

Raspberry Pi 2 Model B

Supports CEC. Comes with 4x USB 2.0 slots, an HDMI, quad core ARM A7 processor, 1 GB RAM, and an ethernet port. Also has GPIO pins but I don't know of any Kodi related uses for them. It is an extremely low power device (uses about $3 worth of electricity per year) and requires nothing to keep it cool (e.g., no fans blaring in the middle of your favorite movie).

Base cost is $35. Requires a microSD card, an HDMI cable, and a microUSB charger, all of which can be purchased for approximately $5 each. An existing microUSB charger, such as from your cell phone or a device like a Kindle or Chromecast can be used, of course. Optional components include a case ($10-$20 or 3D print your own), USB wifi dongle ($10+), and an external hard drive ($50+). A few companies put out bundles that include a Raspberry Pi board and various components such as this basic one and this more complete one. A wireless keyboard ($20+) can also be handy. Product links are provided as examples; there may be better deals or smarter purchases to be had.

You'll then want to use a minimalistic Linux distro such as OpenELEC or OSMC, both of which are designed specifically to run Kodi and have optimized builds for a Raspberry Pi. OpenELEC seems to be more popular and is what I use myself. Installation is easy -- you just download and write to your SD card (oh yeah, you might need an SD card reader, $5). If you'd like you can also install a "real" Linux distro and install Kodi in that as you would on a regular desktop computer. You can either store your media on an external hard drive connected to the Raspberry Pi or on a separate computer or NAS and share your files over your LAN.

Pros:

• Cheap base cost
  
• Low power
  
• Very hands off after initial setup
  
• CEC! Use your TV remote to control Kodi
  
• Hardware decoding for h264
  
• As it is full-fledged computer you can easily add in additional software such as emulators, a web browser, etc.
  
• More of a DIY solution (may be a con)
  
  Cons:
  
  
• A few plugins (typically they are Windows dependent) and more computationally intensive skins may not work
  
• May get pricey if you need to buy all the separate components
  
• Can not handle 10-bit x264 (aka Hi10p; rare outside of anime fansubs) or HEVC (aka h265) files.
  
• No 4K output, max resolution is 1920x1200
  
• More of a DIY solution (may be a pro)
  

You can buy extenders that run through the house's power lines. They're called "powerline adapters". I use them in my house with my roommates where I can't have a giant UTP cable from the switch to my machine.

Here's an example:http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AWRUICG?keywords=powerline%20adapter&psc=1&qid=1457025049&ref_=sr_1_1&s=electronics&sr=1-1-spons

Don't forget a Bluetooth adapter :)

http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Ethernet-Network-Adapter-Chromebook/dp/B00484IEJS

$12, just a generic USB to Ethernet adapter. You do not need the Nintendo adapter.

As someone who owns the white and Dawn Shadow versions of this, I can tell you I used the Asus BT400, and it worked ok, but I was also only ever 2-3 feet away from it. Even then, I still had some small issues with it. I ended up sucking it up and buy the official Microsoft Xbox One Adapter for Windows. I've had zero issues since, and I highly suggest you just got for that, especially since it's only $19 right now, as opposed to it's normal $25.

Get a power line adapter bro. It’s essentially hard wiring your system without the long cable. Instead, it goes through your home’s electrical cables. Super cheap and works great. I have this one I posted. Never have issues and my reception is amazing despite my router being three rooms away.

TP-Link AV1000 Powerline Ethernet Adapter - Gigabit Port, Plug&Play, Power Saving(TL-PA7010 KIT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WP2ZT5N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oCo2CbXG35RGK

If it's short term, whatever is at least as fast as your internet connection. I'll assume you're in the US, so how about https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-N150-Wireless-Adapter-TL-WN722N/dp/B002SZEOLG

Do yourself a HUGE favor and get yourself an Ethernet Powerline Adapter.

It sounds expensive but you can get a decent one for $20 $36 and it works great! My Wi-Fi speeds were 1/10th of what I get with the adapter.

Donor? why not new?

Here's a black one

Here's an orange one from a site that you will want to use a reloadable MasterCard to buy from

while it's open replace the laser (check your model number for exact laser replacement, this is just an example)

Open ps2 loader and all that.. I ended up having to order a swap magic disk to install free mcboot but there are other ways.

This is optional and expensive, but it will also be an upgrade for any internet connected device around your TV:

• Grab 2 suggested dual-band AC routers suggested here and flash one (or both DD-WRT is awesome) with DD-WRT or Tomato. If you already have a dual-band AC router, there's no reason to replace it, just get one dual band AC router and flash it.
  
  
• If you haven't already, replace your old router with one of the new ones (the one you don't have to flash with DD-WRT). Configure it as normal, you just upgraded your WiFi significantly though.
  
  
• Take the other router and follow the instructions to install the latest version of DD-WRT/Tomato, your going to need the additional functionality of these third-party firmwares.
  
  
• configure this router as a wireless bridge device, set it to connect to your other router in the 5Ghz spectrum. Make sure that you set this router's IP address as something other than the default 192.168.1.1 or you will have to start over with a 30-30-30 reset.
  
  
• Plug it in behind your TV and plug in anything that has an ethernet port to it (the PS2 with the hard drive kit obviously, but your Xbox 360/one, PS3/4, set-top boxes, smart TV, HTPC, rasberrypi, etc)
  
  
• If your PC is pugged into the router with a cat6e and has a gigabyte nic, your done. If you have your PC on a wireless network, you need to check to see what revision of WiFi your wifi nic supports. If it supports AC, you don't have to go any further. If it's a G/N card, you will also need to upgrade it as well. Laptop suggestion, Possibly needed accessory if you need a long card, Desktop suggestion
  
  What has all this done? Well, firstly your network is now upgraded to AC and that has given you a ~1Gbps link to your modem and other PCs on the network (assuming that you upgraded them all with new WNICs). have fun transferring your entire install of Fallout 4 from one PC to the other in a matter of moments, this would be a great time to look into faster internet packages because you can handle it.
  
  But the other thing, the thing that made you have to do all this scary firmware flashing on expensive networking equipment? Your devices now have a 1Gbps link to your router as well. That's far far better than the NICs in the consoles/set top boxes and since the PS2 has no wireless NIC, this was completely necessary to have it attached to your TV and be able to stream the ISOs off your PC. The router is working backwards, using WiFi as it's WAN connection and supplying connection to the ports.
  
  This is essentially the setup I have, except I'm using my old Dual-band N router as my wireless bridge. The PS2 can load a game far faster than it could off the disk through the network, but also my 360/PS3 can download content and updates far faster than they can with their internal adapters. Anything pulling network video will be more responsive, and will be able to utilise the full speed of your internet connection for things like Netflix.
  
  Is it a lot to connect your PS2 to the WLAN? oh yeah, but your also upgrading your connection for everything else you use at the same time.

Oh they’re connected to wifi?

I would set up a rouge wifi access point with same SSID and password as the existing one. If you need the password, you can dump it from the computer you have access to. Then you can send a single deauthentication packet to the MAC address for the target computer until it chooses your network (this is not a denial of service as you are forcing his computer to connect through your lab computer, which is still connected to the network)

From there, you can do network captures and control DNS. Do a network capture of port 80 (unecrypted) and DNS requests. He likely has software that automatically checked for software updates over HTTP (VLC does this, among others) every time he starts it.

Alternatively, you can rewrite a DNS request to cause windows to pop up a native windows login window via captive portal (the pop up you see at starbucks wifi)

Documentation here: https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-hardware/drivers/mobilebroadband/captive-portals#cch

All in all, wifi makes things a lot easier. If you have an atheros/other wireless usb handy you can do all of this in ~15min or less.

Here’s the model I use:
TP-Link 150Mbps High Gain Wireless USB Adapter for PC and Laptops (TL-WN722N) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NC40CbD87F441

It’s $15 and even if you don’t succeed, you’ll never have crappy wifi on campus again. I have 3 in my bag right now.

/u/BigOleBallsack - I would get neither. With a $5000 budget, unless you need to take still photos, I recommend an interchangeable lens Super 35 camcorder instead.

By the time you buy ND filters, an XLR audio solution with decent preamps and rigging (e.g., a top handle) to compensate for the GH5's or the A7s II's still camera ergonomics - you might as well buy a real video camera.

In your price range, I recommend a [$2595 Super 35 4K JVC LS300] (https://www.amazon.com/JVC-GY-LS300CHU-Ultra-Camcorder-Handle/dp/B00USBVISE/ref=as_li_ss_tl?m=A17MC6HOH9AVE6&s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1487897950&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) with a [$399 Metabones Canon to micro 4/3 autofocusing adapter] (https://www.amazon.com/Metabones-Smart-Adapter-Thirds-Camera/dp/B014C1BF7O//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) and something like a [$799 Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8 lens] (https://www.amazon.com/Sigma-18-35mm-F1-8-Lens-Canon/dp/B00DBL0NLQ//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20).

The LS300 has these features that still cameras lack:

• built-in ND filters
  
• built-in pro XLR inputs with phantom
  
• top handle
  
• built-in IP encoder for [live streaming] (https://youtu.be/Y3oYNy47yYo) with a [$9 wi-fi dongle] (https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20)
  
• SDI out
  
• power zoom rocker with [prime zoom] (https://youtu.be/0Eq4_hPzQPc), which gives you a 2.5x lossless zoom with prime lenses
  
  I have shot with this camera, it is a solid pro camcorder with the ability to produce high quality 4K video at a reasonable price.
  
  Here are a few examples of the image quality this camera can produce:
  
  Narrative
  
  
• [UrbEx by Filippo Chiesa] (https://vimeo.com/200431612) (4K)
  
  
• [Даниил Хармс стихотворение Страх |Тест камеры JVC GY-LS300 by Александр Носовский] (https://youtu.be/xyO_-T7BhdM) (1080p)
  
  
• [JVC LS300 Test Footage by Hamilton Video & Sound Limited] (https://youtu.be/qQoDt62DNak) (1080p)
  
  Music Video
  
  
• [JVC GY-Ls300 Test 001 by Dario Viola] (https://youtu.be/LRWuOhLSAi8) (1080p)
  
  Corporate/Commercial/Interview
  
  
• [Halloween AM Skit by Robert Grant] (https://youtu.be/knzu5ZLgYMc) (1080p - Local TV promo - LS300 used on some shots)
  
  
• [KW Realty Group Experience, Anniston, Alabama by Barrett House Productions] (https://youtu.be/5fSgXSCEg9M) (1080p - [Azden SGM250 pro XLR microphone] (https://www.amazon.com/Azden-SGM-250-Professional-Powered-Microphone/dp/B00XWG2YBW//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) plugged directly into the camcorder)
  
  
• [Indian Oaks Event Center Community Golf Course by Barrett House Productions] (https://youtu.be/CLBbyXualSs) (1080p)
  
  Live Event
  
  
• [Supersonic Lips - House of Blues - Mas Musica Festival by Juan Flores] (https://vimeo.com/185562492) (1080p)
  
  
• [JVC LS300 Sample low light Footage (The Pocket Band) by Lonzos Studios] (https://youtu.be/VXEWARTJhv8) (2160p)
  
  Wedding
  
  
• [4K Ultra HD Wedding Film - Kassandra & Ralph's Photo Shoot by Jim Merchant] (https://youtu.be/d4pILlMyFEM) (2160p - shot with manual Rokinon cine lenses)
  
  
• [Kristin & Doug's Wedding at Glen Magna Farms 4K Ultra-HD Wedding by Jim Merchant] (https://youtu.be/GdKBKd5_e2Q) (2160p - shot with the LS300 and a Sony AX100 consumer camcorder)
  
  
• [Wedding with a jvc gy-ls300 by NOA NOA] (https://vimeo.com/154440004) (1080p - shot with the LS300 and Panasonic auto lenses)
  
  J-LOG on Vimeo (please watch at 4K and your monitor's highest resolution)
  
  
• [Japanese garden with the JVC gy ls300 by NOA NOA] (https://vimeo.com/162712903)
  
  
• [JVC GY-LS300 4K J-Log Vision] (https://vimeo.com/138523082)
  
  
• [Palm Springs Photo Festival 2016 - JVC LS300 footage by Zachary Andrews] (https://vimeo.com/164723392) (4K J-LOG)
  
  1080p on Vimeo
  
  
• [Breathing in New Life] (http://vimeo.com/120445118)
  
  
• [“Honmonji Temple” in GY-LS300 by moribun] (https://vimeo.com/139214323) (downscaled from UHD to 1080p, downloadable if you're a Vimeo Plus or Pro member [if you're not, you can sign up [here] (http://vimeo.com/pro/new?utm_source=affiliate&utm_medium=prosubscribe-cj-vimeo-bizlander-300x250-20130424&utm_campaign=7696)])
  
  
• [JVC GY-LS300 Camera Test] (http://vimeo.com/122736335)
  
  
• [A Snowy Day in Ann Arbor, Shot with the JVC GY-LS300 by Chase Stanton] (https://vimeo.com/158042771)
  
  J-LOG on YouTube (please watch at 2160p and your monitor's highest resolution)
  
  
• [GY-LS300 4K J-Log1 "KYOTO New Year's Day" by GAIPROMOTION] (https://youtu.be/efJrfawjVw0)
  
  Non-LOG Gammas on YouTube (2160p)
  
  
• [GY-LS300 UHD 4K w/ Canon 70-200 and 85mm lenses by JVCProfessional] (https://youtu.be/QYCdxMrvAoA)
  
  
• [JVC LS300 Clips by Hamilton Video & Sound Limited] (https://youtu.be/OzgGwCUdZV0)
  
  
• [EVS’s test footage for the JVC GY-LS300 4K super 35 Cinema camera] (https://youtu.be/S47dceBcuJI)
  
  
• [TOKYO“I”land KOWA PROMINAR w/JVC KENWOOD GY-LS300 by Satoshi Watanabe] (https://youtu.be/WO8DW5d0isE)
  
  
• [JVC GY-LS300 4K Footage by elton chong] (https://youtu.be/0pYEFhE3xLE)
  
  This camera is not perfect. It has a tiny viewfinder and LCD, so you'll probably need to buy an EVF - and, although it has 4:2:2 chroma subsampling, it is still an 8-bit camera.
  
  But for less than $3000, the LS300 is the most flexible large sensor, interchangeable lens 4K Super 35 camcorder on the market.
  
  Hope this is helpful and good luck with finding the right camera for your needs!

Raspberry Pi 3

Raspberry Pi Clear Case

32GB MicroSD Card

Netatmo Weather Station

Wind Gauge

Rain Gauge

Rain/Wind Gauge mounts

3 Way HDMI Switch

1FT HDMI Cable

Wifi Adapter

Everything is attached to the back of the television with some double sided sticky paper things i had lying around. Anything will probably work.

The USB wall outlet is one that delivers 3.1A at 5V that we bought from our local hardware store.

The server that the software runs on is a poweredge r710 with dual x5670s and 64GB of ram. Of course, this isnt all it does, but it is one of the many things i host on it. :)

If you'd like, i can post the scripts i wrote for it as well.

I used the following guide for my setup.

https://productforums.google.com/forum/#!topic/chromecast/xo_NDh5CZA8;context-place=topicsearchin/chromecast/category$3Achrome-os

The ethernet adapter I got was the Linksys USB3GIG. It is nice that the USB3GIG supports 1000Gb and has USB3.0 to take full advantage of the bandwidth in theory.

My setup cost me $29, but it can be done for $20.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CXAC1ZW

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDLUSE7

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MYT481C

Edit: I changed the amazon links since I didn't realize amazon shorten links are referral links.

Obviously you can use whatever, but these are what I used for this project. I bought the 2 pin power ports off of Ebay. For the NES case, try searching "Broken NES" on ebay and you should be able to find some. Or use an entirely different shell and post it!

• Bluetooth Dongle http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833340012
  
  
• Raspberry Pi Heatsinks http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HPQGTI4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• Wifi Dongle http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-Adapter-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1415036150
  
  
• 8in HDMI Male to Female http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=104&cp_id=10419&cs_id=1041913&p_id=2891&seq=1&format=2
  
  
• 1.5ft USB Male to Female http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=103&cp_id=10303&cs_id=1030304&p_id=5431&seq=1&format=2
  
  
• Shutdown switch https://mausberry-circuits.myshopify.com/products/shutdown-circuit-use-your-own-switch
  
  
• 2 Pin IEC 320 C8 Screw Mount Inlet Plug Socket AC 250V 2.5A
  
  **edit updated bluetooth link

I will list all parts I used to get it in a functioning state along with the price I got them for.

• RPi - $35 + ~$10 shipping
  
  
• Broken portable DVD player (reader was busted, not screen) - Free
  
  
• Composite wire that came with DVD player - Free
  
  
• Cheap USB wifi adapter - $10
  
  
• SD card that came with my camera - Free
  
  
• Wireless keyboard/trackpad combo - $16
  
  
• My phone charger - Free
  
  Overall comes out to about $80 after taxes.
  

do you mind if i link your amazon referrals from youtube?

Raspberry Pi Model B Revision 2.0 (512MB) $42.88

WiFi Dongle $9.99

16 GB SD Card $12.98

also, would it be all right to link to your bitcointalk thread?

good luck with your project!

Beginners Help:

1. Run the VR compatibility check: https://store.steampowered.com/search/?snr=1_4_4__12&term=steam+WMR+performce+test
   
   
2. Upgrade to Windows 10 version 1809:
   https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10
   
   
3. Load Steam VR: https://store.steampowered.com/app/250820/
   
   
4. Load STEAM WMR: https://store.steampowered.com/app/719950/
   
   
5. Bluetooth: For all but Samsung Odyssey HMD+, be sure your computer has a Bluetooth capability to talk to the hand controllers. If capability is not built in, buy a Bluetooth dongle and plug it into a USB 2 port. AND, if possible place this in an USB 2 port that is away from the Headset connection to the computer --- perhaps the front of the computer. Known to work (Plugable Bluetooth 4.0 low energy.): https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Bluetooth-Adapter-Raspberry-Compatible/dp/B009ZIILLI
   
   
6. Pair your controllers:
   https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/mixed-reality/enthusiast-guide/set-up-windows-mixed-reality#set-up-your-motion-controllers
   
   
7. Play Space: be sure you clear plenty of space. If you are 6 foot, you need a nine foot ceiling. You can break controllers, your hands, or TVs etc. if you do not have enough space.
   
   
8. Games: start with free, and check STEAM for the MOST played.
   
   
   Consider:
   
   a. The Lab
   
   b. Rec Room
   
   c. Google Earth
   
   d. You Tube
   
   e. Beat Saber
   
   f. Elven Assassin
   
   g. Arizona Sunshine
   
   h. Gorn
   
   i. Pavlov
   
   
9. Buy rechargeable batteries: highly rated from IKEA
   https://www.amazon.com/Ikea-ladda-Battery-rechargeable-2450/dp/B01MQ0U97A/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1544531944&sr=8-4&keywords=ikea+rechargeable+batteries#customerReviews

Edimax.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Ji9Qub1C3DTAR

I've bought this one a few years ago and it works perfectly: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00484IEJS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I think every ethernet adapter with the same chipset (ASIX AX88772 chipset) will work with Wii U.

edit: formatting

Fresh build or did you install this on a machine that you have been using for awhile? Also what OS? Have you tried the card in another machine? I see that you believe that the drivers are current, have you tried an older driver. Is there more than one driver for this card on the manufacturer's support site? Why did you purchase a $200 network card when one 1\3 the price would have worked fine? Define your WiFi environment, what router, what extenders, what other devices are on the WiFi network? Do you have a remote weather station? Did you have another WiFi card in the machine before this one? If so did you remove the previous cards drivers and all software? When you installed the driver, did the driver package include proprietary Asus software besides the driver, or did you install the driver by itself? What size was the driver package in MB's? What motherboard are you using? Does it have built in WiFi or LAN? Out of curiosity, what software are you using to measure speed? If you don't know all the answers, just answer what you can and we can piece it together fairly easy. I have more questions, but those can wait.



Edit: Did you pay $200 for this card? I don't know the historical prices of this card, you may have bought it a year ago when the price could have been higher, card prices drop pretty quickly as do all PC components over time.

https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Wi-Fi-Express-Adapter-PCE-AC56/dp/B00JNA337K

I've just tried this out.


I have my UGreen USB ethernet adapter plugged into my Anker USB-C hub with PD and my Anker Powercore+ 26800 PD battery powering the whole thing.


Its charging and showing me the squiggly line for wired ethernet on the screen, so I'm pretty sure any dock using compatible components will work in the way you want.

As an aside - obviously the HDMI port doesn't work, unfortunately.

EDIT: the UGreen Ethernet adaptor is plugged into one of the USB A 3.1 ports on the Anker hub.

Having played a lot of Splatoon I would recommend getting an Ethernet adapter. The one I liked below works like a charm.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AQM8586/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Get this one instead. It's USB 3.0, caps out at 100 Mbps, and is on the list of USB 3.0 adapters that work. I have two different ones unfortunately, and this is the one that works.

Edit: I just noticed that this one is currently unavailable. Wait a day or so, and check again. They usually run for $15.

I don't think there is a BIFL cable product that is going to be worth the cost for non-professional use.

However, if you are not an audiophile or do not require the best sound output (are you outputting to high end speakers?), I would recommend looking into wireless audio adapters. You can go with either Bluetooth or RF. What you need is a 3.5mm wireless/bluetooth adapter which you plug into your laptop and then a receiver which you plug your speakers into. Your laptop should actually already have bluetooth, so you might not even need the 3.5mm adapter.

That said, there is no BIFL for wireless audio receivers. I am currently using a logitech one (this one) which has lasted a year and a half so far. Really anything works here, I even had a DX.com one I bought for $6 which lasted 2 years of decent sound output (for bluetooth) before conking out. I only use them for outputting audio from my phone to my bathroom speakers.

The items used:

Raspberry PI Zero <- Bougth mine at local store.

http://amzn.com/B00S82B0VA <- Karaoke Mixer

http://amzn.com/B00SNLIG5O <- 128GB SD Card for storage

http://amzn.com/B001MSS6CS <- USB Audio Card

http://amzn.com/B003MTTJOY <- Wifi Adapter

http://amzn.com/B005HKIDF2 <- Usb Hub

A total of around ~$90



Edit

If a mic is needed that add $20
http://amzn.com/B003GEBGA0 <- Mic

From what I can tell, there's absolutely no difference between this and a regular USB bluetooth dongle, like the one I bought from Amazon. Works perfectly with the DS4, and is cheaper.

Also works with any other bluetooth device I want to connect to my PC, like an Xbone controller, or my phone.

Yes it's a PS4 controller.

All you need is a DS4 controller, Bluetooth USB and DS4Tool

Here's how I do it on Windows 8:

1. You plug the Bluetooth USB then access the Windows 8 Device Settings
   
   
2. Press and hold the Share and PS button until the light quickly flashes.
   
   
3. In the Windows 8 Device Settings you click Add a device then the Wireless Controller will appear, just click on it to pair it.
   
   
4. In the DS4Tool folder go in Virtual Bus Driver folder and install ScpDriver.exe (run as administrator).
   
   
5. Finally go back to the root of DS4Tool folder and run ScpServer. Enjoy!

This is true I actually have a Wi-Fi Powerline Extender and 3 other normal powerline adapters in my house. 2 Birds with 1 stone.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSQAIQU

Sony says that the A2DP Bluetooth latency is too high for a streamlined experience, [this] (https://www.amazon.com/Avantree-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Nintendo-Headphones/dp/B01G3J1I5M/) is your only option.

For me I solved that issue by getting this Avantree Leaf USB Transmitter Adapter for Switch & PS4 for $30 (though it was $29 when I got it)

I mostly play 99.9% of the time in docked mode after work or on my days off. So getting something like a Genki, Gulikit, or Homespot which is at least $10-$11 more expensive (and is more geared towards using it in portable mode) made little sense when those only worked for the Switch. I needed something that worked with the Switch & PS4 ideally so this was perfect for my needs.

But if you only want an adapter for the Switch then one of those 3 works just fine, & some of them come with USB adapters so you can use them in docked mode.

Does it kind of suck you need to buy an accessory to fix the lack of bluetooth support for wireless headphones? Sure, but thankfully 3rd party companies are making products that solve this issue at a mostly reasonable cost depending which one you get.

Try using a powerline ethernet solution! This let's you run your ethernet signal through your home's power system. I use it for my downstairs Dock and it works very well, no disconnects! It's a bit tricky to set up though.

Here's the one I'm using:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AV1000-Powerline-Ethernet-Adapter/dp/B06WP2ZT5N

The big metal thing up top is called Yagi antenna, which is basically just increases signal strength to nearby WiFi access points. Looks like this one

Connected to that is an external USB network adapter, looks like the awesome T-Link Archer or N150 connected to a USB extension.

​

So what OP is doing is extending range and connecting to a different nearby router, probably optimum wifi off campus or something.

​

EDIT: whoops, OP responded while i was typing. Didn't show up until now.

Parts List:

Power Adapter

Raspberry Pi

USB Super Nintendo Controller (This is the best one I have found so far)

HDMI Cable

WiFi Dongle

Other Items you will need:

USB Keyboard

Monitor or TV with HDMI Support




Now you dont have to use these parts exactly, there are plenty of other parts you can use. I am pretty sure that you can play Roms up to Playstation 1.



There is also a new Raspberry Pi 3 that is compatible with the RetroPie software which has WiFi and Bluetooth integrated into the board.

Helpful Video's to tackle technical issues with your RetroPie:

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLtht1mv6ty8xMBwgHX9RCkplqeSRxyHiC




Here is the Case I found on Etsy. There are plenty of other sellers but this guy was great!

There are USB wifi adapters for Raspberry Pi that cost less than half that:

http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY

Make an all purpose travelpi.
Get a PI3, load it up with raspbian or your preferred OS and throw it together with this Screen and case combo. Add some heatsinks to keep it cool, put emulation station on there for all the downtime gaming action you could ask for. Then have some fun playing with accessories. Here's a bluetooth vehicle diagnostics monitor you can use with pyOBD to monitor any 96 and up vehicle to check gas mileage and check error codes. Here's a GPS module for logging miles and checking locations and for the times you just absolutely must get wifi no matter what heres an adapter and antenna that will reach out and touch someone in the next country.

Edit: game pads

These are great, I install them for clients all the time. Rather than extending a crappy wifi signal it runs a network through your outlets. Pop the big one near your Chromecast, little one wires in to your router downstairs.

I already have a set of nice speakers in my living room so I bought this Logitech bluetooth adapter to allow my Echo Dot to connect to those speakers wirelessly. The only downside is that the adapter reconnects automatically no matter how many times I tell Alexa to disconnect bluetooth, so it has to be powered down (unplugged) if I ever want to just use the Echo Dot's internal speaker. To solve this, I plugged the bluetooth adapter into a Wemo switch, which I named "stereo". Now, if I want to play the Echo Dot's audio through the nice stereo, I just say "Alexa, turn on the stereo"...Alexa turns on the wemo, which gives power to the Logitech adapter, which then auto-connects to the Echo and I'm in business. Saying "Alexa, turn off the stereo" powers down the Wemo/Logitech Adapter and the Echo Dot returns to playing through its internal speaker.

> Now if you can help me fix the lag.

Here, I also recommend subscribing to a real ISP, but that varies between regions.

I found This One for $10 that's been working for me just fine.

somthing like this could help depending on your need. All the fun of having ethernet in the wall except for cutting of drywall.

Unlike the other PC gamers in this thread, I'd say that rig for a PS4 is a decent deal - if you do plan on replacing your PC with something a little more powerful, as you say in another thread.

Once you pick up the PS4, what you need first and foremost is a PS+ subscription, which I think is $50 a year. Multiplayer is more or less dependent upon it (except where noted, in certain games). With the service, you also get two free games every month. So far, they've all been smaller indie titles, though the PS3 is seeing some older AAA releases. You can still make a PSN id to buy games and suchlike off the PS store.

Next, you'd probably want a second controller, especially if you're into fighting games like Mortal Kombat or Injustice. Sportsfriends, one of the free PS+ games this month, is also local MP only, and I've really enjoyed it so far.

If your WiFi is not ideal, and you don't have a LAN connection direct to the PS4, you could look into one of these.

Finally, you could look into upgrading the hard drive. 500 GB doesn't last long, since the PS4 installs all games, even ones on discs, to the hard drive. With each title clocking in between 25 and 40 GB, not to mention the two free PS+ games every month, it's gonna run out fast.

Thankfully, it's really easy to replace, as detailed here. I've heard good things on /r/PS4 about a certain 2TB Samsung hard disk, but I cannot find it right now. Or you could go for an SSD, which is faster but more expensive.

That's about all I can think of at the moment. Now for the disclaimer:

If your primary motivation for the PS4 is Destiny, you might want to hold off. I'm enjoying the game, but I would not recommend it to anyone who hasn't already tried it and decided if it's the game for them. I played the open beta for between six and eight hours before deciding to buy it. If you can, play for at least an hour or two on a friend's system before taking the leap.

I know unsolicited advice is often unwelcome, so feel free to skip the following paragraph if you want to:

UNSOLICITED ADVICE FOLLOWS

You could upgrade your GPU and get a PS4 for cheaper than assembling a new rig from scratch. I'm pretty sure you could sell just the GPU for between eighty and a hundred bucks.

UNSOLICITED ADVICE ENDS

Cheers, and welcome to the PS family!

Nope, nothing at all. You are the first person to ever run into the problem of being too far away from your router. There is no technology to solve this problem, and there never will be. Your only solution is to tear down your parents' house and build a smaller one so you'll be closer to the router...

I kid :)

This is a very common problem and it's easy to solve. Here's a few options.

The easiest is probably a WiFi Range Extender. These work decently well at re-generating the wireless signal to increase the coverage area. Put the range extender within the area that still has good coverage, set it up correctly, and it will expand that coverage.

There are a few drawbacks though. Your signal from the range extender will only be as useful as the range extender's signal back to the base station. So if you put the range extender on the fringe of the base's coverage, then you'll see a really strong signal on your device (from the range extender) but the bandwidth will still suck (because the range extender can't make a good connection back to the base).
Also, even when this system is working perfectly, it will reduce your wireless bandwidth by 50% or more. That's because the range extender uses the same frequency to receive and then re-transmit each signal, so each packet takes double the frequency time to send- once to be transmitted, and again to be re-transmitted by the range extender. Note that this may not actually affect your Internet speed- if your WiFi is going at 300mbit/sec, and this halves it to 150mbit/sec, then it's still not a bottleneck if your cable modem is only 30mbit/sec.

A potentially more reliable option is a MoCA Bridge Kit. That takes your local network as Ethernet from your router and re-injects it back into the coax cable. The result is anywhere you have a coax jack, you can just add another MoCA unit and whammo you now have a hardwired Ethernet port. In most houses this works slightly better than WiFi range extenders since you're getting a hardwired connection. To expand your wireless range, buy both this kit and the above range extender, plug one MoCA unit into your router and the coax, the other MoCA unit into the range extender and the coax, and then set the range extender to operate as an access point (not a range extender). Set the network name and security key to be the same as on the base router, but use a different channel. This will give you the fastest and most reliable system overall. Your laptop/phone/etc will connect to whichever device is closest (base router or the range extender working as a second access point).

IMPORTANT NOTE ON MoCA BRIDGES: MoCA only works on houses that use Cable internet and TV. If your house uses Satellite TV, then there's a similar device for DirecTV called DECA. If you have cable internet and satellite TV, that means there's two coax systems in your house (one from the modem, the other from the dish) so whichever bridges you use have to be on the same system.
If you have AT&T U-Verse, none of this shit will work because they use something completely different called HPNA-over-coax that's not compatible with either MoCA or DECA.

Hope that helps! Feel free to ask if you have any questions...

Hands down, yes. They're practically necessary, in my opinion.

https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Ethernet-Network-Adapter-Chromebook/dp/B00484IEJS/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1487086534&sr=8-7&keywords=wii+u+ethernet+adapter
This is the one I use, and it works fine. They're kind of finnicky with the wii u in general, but it works very well for me. Don't buy the ugreen one, that one is shit and doesn't work.

The key points of home networking to keep in mind:

1. There is always exactly one router, and it is always connected directly to the modem. The purpose of a router isn't Wi-Fi, it's to direct traffic between different networks (such as your home network and the internet). A router has no purpose if it's only connected to one network. The term "wireless router" just means "router with built-in access point", the access point is what does Wi-Fi.
   
   
2. If you need to add more Ethernet ports, get a switch and connect it to the router with Ethernet.
   
   
3. If you need more Wi-Fi coverage, get an access point and connect it to the router (or a switch that's connected to the router) with Ethernet. Don't get another router or an extender/repeater.
   
   
4. Only use Wi-Fi for devices that don't stay put, such as phones, tablets, and laptops. Anything that stays put, such as TVs, game consoles, streaming players, desktop PCs and printers should have a wired network connection if at all possible.
   
   Of course, all those points assume you're able to run Ethernet wherever you need it. That's always the best option. If that's not possible, these are your options in order of best to worst:
   
   

• MoCA. This is basically running Ethernet over Coaxial lines, which most houses already have installed. It's just as fast as Ethernet, but it is expensive, a pair of adapters (and you will need a pair unless your router has it built in, as FiOS ones do) will run you over $150.
  
  
• Wi-Fi Bridge. This is the opposite of an access point, instead of connecting wireless devices to a wired network, it connects wired devices to a wireless network.
  
  
• Powerline. This sends data over electrical wires. It's pretty bad, avoid it.
  
  What you should never, ever get are Wi-Fi repeaters/extenders. They halve the speed of anything connected to them, as they can't communicate with the router/AP and devices at the same time. For such a device to run at full speed, it needs either a wired connection to the network (this makes it an access point) or wired connections to devices (this makes it a bridge).
  
  So, what you should do is connect all the devices of your entertainment center to a switch. Make sure it's a gigabit one. Then, connect this switch to your router by the best means possible. Ethernet>MoCA>Wi-Fi Bridge>Powerline. If you need Wi-Fi coverage here as well, get an access point and connect it to the switch as well.

These usually work: https://smile.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-Adapter-Starter-TL-PA4010KIT/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494949588&sr=8-1&keywords=network+electrical+outlet

Just use a powerline ethernet adapter to move between those locations. You won't have full gigabit speed, but they have come a long long way.

This link is for the 500Mb speed, but the 200Mb (which is fine for most stuff) is only $20! http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PA4010KIT-Powerline-Adapter-Starter/dp/B00AWRUICG/

I can't believe that after 173 comments, no one has the explanation as to why this is the case. I guess it's finally my time to shine. Simply put, the PS3 uses a wi-fi standard that's currently in most homes today. The PS4 uses a newer, faster standard. So why is it slower then? Because most people's routers aren't upgraded to this new standard yet. Sony made the PS4's wi-fi module more future-proof, but as of now it's definitely too future-proof. There are two work-arounds to this issue. You either A) buy a router that uses the new wi-fi standard or the better option IMO, B) buy one of these genius little network powerline adapters. Why do I think the powerline adapter is better? It's cheaper than most routers that use the new wi-fi standard and it's a wired connection. You ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS, want a wired connection with your gaming devices. Save the wi-fi for your phones and tablets. Wire connections are faster and more stable than wi-fi. The network powerline adapter allows you to have a wired connection even if you don't have the ethernet wire routed to the room with your PS4.



"But wait u/IVIajesty, how does this marvelous machine pull off such a magical feat???"



It's simple young padawon. You connect the first module into the outlet and into your router. It sends the ethernet connection throughout your homes circuiting. You connect the second module into the outlet by your PS4 and into your PS4 via ethernet cable, and alakazam! The internet signal is transferred over through the rooms. It's like having a wired connection, without having a wired connection! Woo!



Bonus LPT: If you have an electronics store like Best Buy or Fry's by you, you can buy the device from them and make sure it works. If it doesn't, they have 15 day return policies. This device works in pretty much 99% of home circuiting layouts. There are a few cases where the circuiting of the home isn't compatible with this device, but it's rare. If it doesn't work, you can always return it.



Bonus-Bonus LPT: Best Buy and Fry's both price check, so if it's cheaper on Amazon or any other reputable online vender, make sure you take advantage of that to save a couple extra bucks.



Edit: Used some bolding and italics to make my comment sexier.
Edit 2: It seems as though I might've have confused standard with a different word or I might've gotten my info from an unreliable source. Crossed out the wrong info. Guess I'm not a savior after all :'(

Here are some things you can try if you haven't already:

1. Use ethernet the whole way. If you do this, there will be almost no latency or noticable compression. This may not be feasible for the steam link itself, but you can likely pull it off for the PC connection. The less Wifi you use, the better the picture quality is.
   
2. If you can't use ethernet, try using a Powerline adapter. Essentially these things send super small electrical signals through your house's circuit (unnoticable to any of your appliances) to replace ethernet. It's not quite as fast as ethernet, but It's a hell of a lot faster than wifi and should be fine for the Link. You can only use this if your PC and Steam link are on the same circuit.
   
3. If you can't use powerline either, use a 5GHz Wifi connection if you can. It has smaller range but much higher bandwidth so you won't have as much latency / compression
   
4. If you're using Wifi move your modem, PC, and steam link away from large metal objects (think about what's behind your walls!). Note that the material is important here - wifi signals can travel through wood and drywall pretty easily but not aluminum.

I'm using these.

The way they work is quite simple. Plug one into an outlet near your router and insert an ethernet cord into it. Plug the other into an outlet near your ps4 and connect an ethernet cord to it.

Now you have wired internet access. No other settings required.

TP-LINK TL-PA4010KIT AV500 Nano Powerline Adapter Starter Kit, up to 500Mbps https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_zQYFwbA7ZNW41

If you can't get the wifi going, powerline adapters may be a great alternative for you to provide a consistent and reliable network connection to your PS4 as long as you have outlets available near both the router and PS4.

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PA2010KIT-Powerline-Adapter-Starter/dp/B00AWRUIY4/ref=pd_tcs_subst_e_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=021B2W1R5TGXTHZNPQVR

On each end of the coax...
https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Ethernet-Adapter-without-Routers/dp/B008EQ4BQG

>I just need to run one long cable to the other end of the house, attach an ethernet switch, and then hook 3 shorter ethernet cables to the switch and run them to each room?

Pretty much. Any layer 2 switch will do, think of it as an extension to the ports already on your router. No other setup is required. I doubt you will have to worry about signal degradation.


Some other alternatives to throw at you.

If there is existing coax in the rooms Moca adapters can be an option.

Powerline adapters are also a thing for empty electric sockets in the rooms, not the best for data transfer though.

Could also setup an access point near the other side of the house in place of the switch to provide wireless access and switching.

No, you need Wi-Fi of some sort. If you can't add a Wi-Fi router, you might be able to purchase an inexpensive dongle (like this one) and run a Wi-Fi network from your computer. Otherwise, you'll have to rely on public Wi-Fi networks like at a library or restaurant.

study for CompTIA A+.

They teach you stuff that a normal every-day user wouldn't need to concern themselves with, like OSI layers, types or protocols and standards for data transition. I think it also covers some aspects of security like what hashing is, types of encryption, and gets you used to some tech lingo that an average user may not understand.

After that, go for Network+, it dives deeper into...well, computer networks.

Plenty of free resources for both certifications online. And if you do decide to test for the certifications, they look real gucci on your resume if you have no prior IT experience.

After that, if you have some spare dough, pick up a cheap used laptop for probably $150 or so, and probably pick up one of these guys as well. You don't need any fancy specs. Just enough for you to download Ubuntu and learn linux, setup a challenge for yourself to navigate the operating system using the terminal and the terminal only. That includes installing new programs, opening up files, executing scripts, everything. No double clicking allowed, limit yourself from using the GUI of the OS as much as possible. If you want something done, learn to use the terminal to do it first.

And imo it's really important to do it in that order. Don't be like a lot of people, who thinks buying a laptop and a airmon-ng compatible wifi adapter will make them all set to start becoming a 1337 hacker, and lost interest in a month or two and have basically just wasted their money. Hacking really doesn't have a set course, but if you find yourself with enough interest and discipline to grind through two boring (but very informative) certifications, I believe that then you know you are in the right field. Mostly, you pick up pieces of knowledge here and there, no book is gonna be a fit-all solution towards becoming a hacker. It is the sum of those pieces of knowledge, that makes a hacker a hacker.

TP Link is supposed to be good with Linux

This works for certain without any configuration - http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN722N-Wireless-Adapter-External/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1449448506&sr=8-5&keywords=tp-link+wireless+adapter

As long as it's a Gigabit adapter, they're honestly all the same speed. I bought the Plugable because it was recommended by lots of others, has great reviews for Switch use, it's affordable, AND it's USB 3.0 compatible. Works perfectly btw, perfect size for the side plate.

The Hori/Nintendo one is more expensive (more than double the price) and doesn't have 3.0 capabilities. Now that doesn't matter right now, but people believe that the Switch console is also 3.0 capable, they just haven't provided an update to "activate" it. If they ever do, and there's any speed increase to be seen, you won't get it with a 2.0 adapter like the Hori/Nintendo.

With this kinda thing.

Get a powerline. It uses the outlets and runs the signal across the electrical wires. My xbox gets about 5mbs down wifi but about 75 mbs Wired.

TP-LINK TL-PA4010KIT AV500 Nano Powerline Adapter Starter Kit, up to 500Mbps by TP-LINK http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_pJTWtb1PBK8A4

My wireless connection was too poor for the Steam link, and I rent a room so I couldn't run ethernet through the walls. Instead, I found a good solution in using this powerline ethernet adapter.

I would say it is sligthly better than a chromecast. Rather than only being able use a couple streaming services from an appstore. With the steamlink, you can basically stream whatever is on your desktop.

A ethernet connection is highly recommended though. I've use these with some success.

Buy a Tp-Link I bought one a while ago and it fixed all my problems I was having.

I've got one and it was recognized immediately with no issues.

http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-Wireless-Adapter-Wizard/dp/B003MTTJOY

I use Kinivo BTD-400 Bluetooth 4.0 USB adapter which works well using my PS4 controller and Wiimote on Windows 8.1

You can make the PS4 controller act as a Xbox 360 controller for X-input games (that don't support D-input) like Super Meat Boy and others using DS4Windows or DS4 To XInput Wrapper

Found directions on pairing it and using xinput wrapper: http://www.amazon.com/review/R2EBCN3CPRF4MM/ref=cm_cr_dp_cmt?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B007Q45EF4&nodeID=541966&store=pc#wasThisHelpful

https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Bonded-Ethernet-Adapter-ECB6200K02/dp/B013J7O3X0 -- I've found better prices tho. Just plug into coax and then treat it like an ethernet port; you can have multiple adapters on the coax "network."

Yes, you can. You'd use a couple MoCA (Multimedia over Coax Alliance) adapters, with one on each end. This should allow you to push ethernet over your Coax. Having never done this myself, it should work fine in theory, but other factors like cable quality and length will probably come into play.

Here's a link to a pair you can purchase on Amazon: Link

I have MoCA adapters working with Verizon FioS. Its awesome. MoCA 1.1 gives 175 Mbps shared.

I have them next to each TV (3 total). Much better than Wifi. I do not see ocassional drops I used to see with wifi earlier.

I have had ocassional (may be 4 times in 8 years) when I have to reboot the moca adapter as it got out of sync but very rock solid otherwise.

I use Actiontec MoCA 2.0 adapters - no-referral Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013J7O3X0/

I've been using this: https://www.amazon.com/Avantree-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Nintendo-Headphones/dp/B01G3J1I5M

Works effortlessly between my PC, PS4, and Switch.

These blow powerline adapters out of the water.

Actiontec Bonded MoCA 2.0 Ethernet to Coax Adapter, 2 Pack (ECB6200K02) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013J7O3X0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_8bLFAb4AZ4KYJ

I keep hearing good things about these MoCA 2.0 adapters. MoCA has been around quite a while, it works, and the latest generation stuff is actually gigabit fast.

As someone who has used three generations of powerline stuff, definitely stay away from it unless you have no other alternative. On a good day I see 60Mbps from the "1,200Mbps" adapters and they need to be cold reset (unplugged) after most power flickers.

For PC use I highly recommend pairing these or other good bluetooth headphones with the Avantree Leaf USB Bluetooth Transmitter to get AptX audio support on Windows - worth it for the reasonable price.

I have this usb adapter that I use from time to time, and this which I use pretty much all the time and have had for about 2 years. I like being able to move the antenna to get a better signal, right now it's velcro'd to the wall behind my bed.

If you go the usb route I'd probably buy a larger one that I have that has external antennas, like http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN722N-Wireless-Adapter-External/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1421374210&sr=8-8&keywords=usb+wifi. But I'd still go PCI if you use it a lot, probably last longer and have a better quality connection.

Do you have an Android smart phone or tablet?
If so, DL the Wiggle wifi app.

With it running, you can walk around the property and better triangulate various signals.

If you have a macbook, you can do the same thing pretty much with Kismac. I use WiFiFoFum to do it with an iPhone, but it requires jailbreaking.

Subnet Insight is an absolutely amazing app for iPhone for taking keeping track of your local network and keeping it safe. It's $5, and the only non-free software I'm linking.

If you have an external wireless adapter, or are willing to spend $15-$30 on a specialized one, I can walk you through putting it in monitor mode and really getting the the bottom of the issue.

Here's a simple tp-link USB wifi adapter you can use to monitor all transmissions over B/G/N wifi, [for only $11 amazon prime.] (http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN722N-Wireless-Adapter-External/dp/B002SZEOLG). Here's a very high quality (and foolproof) directional antenna you can use to make it much more effective for less than $30.


^Also ^a ^lot ^of ^the ^advice ^you've ^gotten ^so ^far ^is ^pretty ^badummmmm, ^or ^too ^complicated ^w/out ^better ^context.
But don't be discouraged. Network internals & also wifi/radio signals are complex topics, but the basics are accessible enough to pick up quickly in your situation.

Your father is VERY good with computers? You are basically screwed unless you can dramatically up your game.

Basically, a knowledgeable person can upgrade a router with open source firmware, and give himself god-like powers over the network. Your every move could be tracked.

Your father, if sufficiently skilled, could give you access to Internet that is upside down, or only directed to Kittens, or he could make every single image blurry or missing. More subtlety, he could just log every single thing you do on the 'net.

And it isn't even that hard, it just takes knowledge of what is possible, and the use of Google to figure out how to do it.

There are things you can do. Get a cheap USB WIFI adapter first. So you won't show up on your father's router with your current WIFI adapter. Then, tether to your Android phone, or piggyback off of a neighbor's WIFI.

Last, keyloggers are a possibility - they could be hardware or software related. It is possible to install a hardware keylogger inside the case of your laptop if the installer is sufficiently technically talented. A keylogger, or other software or firmware would completely compromise your computer and prevent you from hiding almost anything that you do.

These are $10 and the work right out of the box.

The best solution for using WiFi on your desktop would probably be to get a PCI wireless card, like this one.

If you aren't comfortable adding a PCI card, or don't have any space for one, you can get a USB wireless adapter, such as this one.

Finally, if you want a better solution that's not running a long cable, buy power line adapters. You plug one into a socket near the router and connect it via Ethernet to the router, then you plug another one in beside your PC and run Ethernet from it to your PC. It uses the wiring in the house to carry data, and is often better than WiFi.

Personally, I would go with the power line adapters then the PCI wireless card.

I don’t think OpenBSD supports Broadcom WiFi at all. Your best bet is probably to get a supported USB adapter. I have a couple of these that live in my OpenBSD laptops that have junky onboard WiFi. Mostly old Macs with Broadcom WiFi.

I'm curious for a source too, but it's not at all far fetched. Scanners are tiny nowadays and could easily be put into the feed chute of a shredder. The guts of this would do nicely. Data over power lines certainly isn't a new technology. Hell. You could use a wifi scanner and not even screw with that.

I could cobble this together in my garage over a weekend probably.

Edit to fix link.

if you are living at home and/or have access to your router, consider powerline adapters instead. the jist is they let you run a wired signal over your house's power grid, rather than running a huge cable through your house.

there's a few rules about using them, but for 90% of people they work great.

if you're in a dorm or something and cant actually get to the router, than u just want a cheap pci AC adaper, something like this

Two quick and easy options -

1.) Bluetooth Receivers - these are no that expensive, and will allow you to connect your phone to the Amp WIRELESSLY, and you can play as long as your phone is within 30feet. You can find many of these on Amazon US or UK or anywhere. They are very common and very reasonable priced.

https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Bluetooth-Receiver-NFC-Enabled/dp/B00KXYXXK2

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-980-000910-Bluetooth-Adapter-Streaming/dp/B00IQBSW28

https://www.amazon.com/Avantree-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Receiver-Headphones/dp/B00LAZ6RTW

2.) Headphone Out - Get a simple 3.5mm Stereo cable to two RCA connectors. Plug the 3.5mm into the Headphone Jack of the Phone and the RCA into one of the unused inputs on the amp. Select the Input on the Amp Selector Switch, and adjust the volume until you can hear the sound.

https://www.amazon.com/AIFFECT-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Adapter/dp/B01GZRMO7S

OP either got ripped of, or is making shit up. That card he linked only costs $55 brand new. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JNA337K

no

One network jack is totally appropriate for a little general-purpose hobbyist SBC.

If you want a little, inexpensive computer with lots of Ethernet jacks, just buy one. If you want an Odroid N2 with an extra network jack, add one.

USB! Check out Amazon for inexpensive adapters that will improve your online gaming on the Switch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M77HMU0

These all work. Note that the Switch USB port is capable of USB 3.0 but a software patch is required which Nintendo hasn’t pushed yet, so USB 2.0 is what the Switch is currently pushing. Up to you if you want to pay a few extra bucks for the 3.0 adapter anyways.

UGREEN Ethernet Adapter USB 2.0 to 10/100 Network RJ45 Lan Wired Adapter for Nintendo Switch, Wii, Wii U, Macbook, Chromebook, Windows 10, 8.1, Mac OS, Surface Pro, Linux ASIX AX88772 Chipset (Black)

UGREEN Network Adapter USB 3.0 to Ethernet RJ45 Lan Gigabit Adapter for 10/100/1000 Mbps Ethernet Supports Nintendo Switch Black

Plugable USB 3.0 to Ethernet Gigabit 10/100/1000 LAN Network Adapter (ASIX AX88179 chipset Compatible With Windows 10, 8.1, 8, 7, XP, Linux, OS X/macOS, Switch Game Console, Chrome OS)

you can get a random one on amazon for like 10 bucks. I got one for my wii u and it works on my switch as well.

edit:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MYT481C/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

this is the one I got, so I can guarantee it works on switch.

I have a network card in my gaming rig alongside a gtx 970 graphics card and the usb card is in the front of the case and plugs into the motherboard.

I use a few Moca adapters to connect wired ethernet to several places in my home that do not have Cat-5/6 installed.

I routinely get 200Mbps on them, which, for me, is plenty fast for most things.

I've been using a set of these Moca adapters for a few years now. If you have coax tv cable throughout your house, it will be plug and play up to 270 Mbps.

I have a T440p (High Sierra and Linux Mint dual boot) also and Wi-Fi isn't working, Lenovo has a whitelist for Hardware, so changing the Wi-Fi card is not that easy. I just use a Wi-Fi dongle -> https://www.amazon.es/TP-LINK-TL-WN823N-adaptador-inalámbrico-10-7-10-11/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=sr_1_3?__mk_es_ES=ÅMÅŽÕÑ&keywords=usb%2Bwifi&qid=1564018664&s=computers&sr=1-3&th=1

​

VGA port is also useless.

Thank you! I've just tested a TP-Link TL-WN725N that I use on my SNES Classic, and I was able to go online in RetroArch on the PS Classic!

Here's an Amazon link to the TL-WN725N.

I've also tested a TP-Link Archer T9UH just for the hell of it, which did not work, as I expected.

EDIT: Also for the hell of it, I have just tested a Cable Matters USB 2.0 to Ethernet adapter, that I use on my Raspberry Pi Zero W, and it works on the PS Classic too!

Here's an Amazon link to the USB 2.0 to Ethernet adapter.

The wifi card might have been damaged or disconnected from the antenna cables. You'll need to open the laptop to get to it. Or you could buy a usb wifi adapter. Like this thing for instance

I bought THIS. I use it exclusively with openELEC and when I hooked it up my router was about 40 FT from my box.

THIS is running on my Raspberry pi openElec box that is right now about 15 feet from the router (on a different floor)

I haven't tested the range on either, but both work great.

I suggest doing a virus scan that's completely outside of Windows. That way any malware that might be there will have less chance to execute and interfere with the scan. It's also useful just as a second opinion.

1. Download Xubuntu or Lubuntu and follow their instructions ( Windows USB | Windows DVD | Mac USB | Mac DVD) to put it on a flash drive or DVD. Or you could use your preferred Linux distro, if you have one. Lubuntu is more lightweight, while Xubuntu has a nicer interface. The reason you may want to burn a DVD is that some computers are unable to boot from USB.
   
2. With her computer off, plug the drive in (so that Windows has no chance to modify the drive), and boot her computer from it. Choose the "Try without installing" option.
   
3. If you're not using Ethernet, connect to WiFi (probably the default password on the side or bottom of the router). If her WiFi card doesn't work out the box, use Ethernet (perhaps via Powerline Ethernet adapters) or a well-supported USB WiFi adapter.
   
4. Look in the app menu (similar to Windows start menu) for the package manager / software center / app store / whatever they call it.
   
5. Once there, search for ClamTk. ClamTk is a GUI for an antivirus program called ClamAV. If you prefer, you can use ClamAV from the Terminal, but you'd need to look up the commands yourself.
   
6. Open ClamTk, make sure it downloads the latest virus definitions, and then tell it to do a recursive scan of a directory: the top level of her hard drive.
   
7. Let it run. It may take a while to go through all the files.
   
8. If it finds anything, look through the list to check for false positives.
   
   When finished, click on the app menu (same one as step 3) and tell it to restart. When prompted, remove the flash drive / DVD and then press enter.
   
   These are NOT complete, step-by-step instructions. They're only enough to sort of convey the general idea, so some of these may require a little trial & error or Googling. If this is new to you, try it on your own machine first before doing it on hers. VirtualBox is a free program for using virtual machines, and you could use that for practice.
   
   Keep in mind that no work or settings will be saved while booted from the flash drive. Everything is kept in RAM unless you save to a disk. Linux doesn't get installed to her machine unless you deliberately run the installer program.

I use this and it is plug and play. Just change the settings to wired connection

http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Ethernet-Network-Chromebook-Specific/dp/B00484IEJS/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1420514774&sr=1-4&keywords=USB+to+ethernet

You have a few options. Be careful of the gigabit Ethernet usb adapters. The gigabit ones use a different chipset than the 10/100mb ones. I've heard of compatibility problems with the gigabit ones. With my v20, I use a type-c to USB 3 adapter along with a USB to 10/100 Ethernet NIC.

(Adapter, also includes a useful type c to micro USB so you can use other people's micro USB chargers, I keep these in my wallet )
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01J7KE7SE/

( USB NIC, There's cheaper ones than this, but you really want the indicator lights so you know it's working )
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00484IEJS/

They said no routers. Which I can understand. But what about an unmanaged network switch?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00A128S24/

The Xbox adapter definitely wouldn't work. A generic USB bluetooth dongle would probably be fine.

https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Bluetooth-Adapter-Raspberry-Compatible/dp/B009ZIILLI/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1520616913&sr=1-3&keywords=plugable+bluetooth

https://www.reddit.com/r/pcgamingtechsupport/comments/533gid/connecting_ds3_to_pc_using_scp_and_bluetooth_40/

At a combined 2880 x 1440, the two displays actually have 1.6 times the resolution of the standard Rift and Vive (‎2160 x 1200). It's a huge difference, like a generational advantage, comparable to jumping from an old Oculus Dev Kit to the current model. I should mention that despite the much higher resolution, the screen door effect is still there (which means you can still see a raster of pixels in front of your eyes), however, it is now possible to ignore it after a few minutes of playing. With these headsets, you can make out objects in the distance more easily, texture detail increases, text becomes readable, instruments in virtual cockpits are now actually useful (eliminating the need for immersion-breaking HUDs), there is less flickering. Even if your PC can't handle the higher resolution, an upscaled image will still look better, because the screen door effect is less pronounced. Recently, there have been performance improvements and changes to the reprojection algorithm, which have reduced hardware requirements by quite a significant margin. It's actually possible to use these headsets with integrated graphics for less demanding applications like 3D video, virtual tourism apps that mostly rely on 3D photos and simple games.

With the Samsung model, you get the same display resolution and colors (thanks to OLED) as the expensive Vive Pro (2880 x 1600), but better lenses.

Another advantage that Windows MR headsets like the Lenovo Explorer and Samsung HMD have is that the setup is incredibly simple. There are no external sensors, laser projectors, adapters, breakout boxes, power supplies, etc. There's just a single cable with USB 3.0 and HDMI at the end. Setup time at a new location is at most two minutes for full roomscale, just a few seconds for just standing or seated VR. This means that MR headsets are truly portable and can be set up anywhere. All you need is a well lit room. That's why I bought my Lenovo Explorer.

There is one disadvantage to these headsets: The controllers (which need a compatible bluetooth adapter - Microsoft recommends this one, but others can work as well) and their tracking are not as good as those of the Rift and Vive. Head and positional tracking through the built in cameras and sensors is virtually flawless, you can walk aroud in VR just like with the Vive (which is great), but the controllers have to be in front of you at all times in order to be accurately tracked, since they also rely on the cameras used for positional tracking. This isn't a huge issue however, since the camera's field of view is larger than the user's and since in most games, you will be interacting with things that are in front of you. Fast movement outside of the camera's view is still tracked well enough through sensors built into the controllers (like with the Wii), like grabbing a shield from behind your back or swinging a sword around. What can not be denied however is that ergonomically, both Vive and Rift have far better controller shapes. It's not bad though, it's just that this is the one aspect where it becomes obvious why these headsets are less expensive than Rift and Vive.

One great (and in my eyes essential) aspect about Windows MR headsets is that there is almost full compatibility with HTC Vive and Oculus Rift games, via two free tools: Windows Mixed Reality SteamVR (from Microsoft themselves) and ReVive. With the latest Windows update, rumble support has finally been added, which was the only missing feature. Launch just the first tool in order to play games designed for Vive, run the latter for Oculus Rift titles. The number of games with native MR support is also steadily increasing. Here's a regularly updated list of compatible titles:

/r/WindowsMR/comments/7c97lm/steam_games_status/

There is a small selection of VR games and applications on the Windows Store, but the vast majority can be found elsewhere as well, mostly on Steam. One noteworthy exception is HoloTour from Microsoft, which is a fantastic virtual tourism application, the perfect complement to the astonishing Google Earth VR. Definitely check both out!

I hope this helps. Feel free to ask if you have any more questions.

Make sure you have a good bluetooth dongle in the line of sight of the headset. This was recommended from Microsoft: (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009ZIILLI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Secondly, make sure you have good overhead lighting. Natural lighting doesn't work that well.

Third, if you can, upgrade to the insider version of windows. Things are running much more smoothly on this.

Fourth, see: https://www.windowscentral.com/how-enable-windows-mixed-reality-joysticks-any-steamvr-game

You need a LAN adapter that has the AX88179 chipset, or it won't work. It's not rare or anything, but there are different ones, so check before you buy.

The Plugable one is a popular buy for a good price ($15) and a reliable brand.

Yeah it makes a huge difference. Another one that works which was recommended else where is the Plugable USB 3.0 lan adapter $14.75, works great for me

Dude. Go for the ethernet through power lines adapter first(btw this is more commonly called a powerline adapter).

This one has 500 mbps, which is considerably higher bandwidth than wifi. It will also give you lower latency, and a generally more stable connection. Take it from me, I have had some TERRIBLE experiences with wifi repeaters. Powerline ftw.

Or you could go all out and get the best of both worlds. Buy one of these, another router, and a powerline adapter. Then what you do is you set it up downstairs (where you normally have your router), and have it go, modem -> ethernet switch -> old router. Then plug one end of the powerline adapter into the switch.

Then plug in the powerline adapter into the wall upstairs where you want wifi. Plug in your new router to it. Set the SSID (the wifi name of your router), as the same name as the router you have downstairs. BAM. You now have STRONG wifi anywhere in the house. Devices will automatically connect to the router with the stronger signal. It will only appear as one wifi network on phones, tablets, etc.

Had this same issue - still can't stand Wifi due to dropouts and latency, so bought an Ethernet over Power adapter instead. Uses your AC line to provide a solid connection to your router anywhere in the house.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AV600-Powerline-Ethernet-Adapter/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=ethernet+over+power&qid=1569066338&s=gateway&sr=8-3

if the ping is the same either way, then i guess it doesn’t matter. but you should look into getting one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-ethernet-Adapter-TL-PA4010KIT/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=mp_s_a_1_3/138-4569046-3886957?ie=UTF8&qid=1541919341&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=powerline+ethernet+adapters&dpPl=1&dpID=41SIVgLUmaL&ref=plSrch

i use it to get a wired connection in my room far from the modem

Here's a good one

check out a thing called Powerline Adapter https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-ethernet-Adapter-TL-PA4010KIT/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=sr_1_3?crid=ZS4BI96GD1BJ&keywords=powerline+adapter&qid=1550932169&s=gateway&sprefix=powerline+ad%2Caps%2C339&sr=8-3 its basically a wired connection through your existing powerlines in the walls its convenient because you don't have to stretch a long Ethernet cord all the way to your console https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ywQeJCa3jl8

Well you can use the defective cat5e cable as a fish to pull a new cable run. You need to detach/destaple it, and redo the job. Depending on the run, it might be difficult, but it's the only way to get gigabit.

​

If you have 100mbps internet or less, you won't see a difference as long as you're not copying files across the devices. Use your cable tester on your cat5e cable, if you have at least 4 good pins, rewire those to pins 1,2,3,6 (from left to right on the connector).

If you don't have 4 good wires, well you need to rerun anyway.

There's always powerline adapters, but those are hit or miss. Make sure you have a good return policy (Walmart).

​

​

You can probably try a powerline adapter. This one will run you about $40.

So you're essentially using wifi because the extender is wirelessly connected to your router and that's the most likely culprit here. If you can't pull a direct cable from your PC to your router then the next best thing is powerline ethernet.

TP-Link TL-PA4010KIT AV600 Nano Powerline Adapter Starter Kit, up to 600Mbps https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_sFmWDb503BQ0H

I'm not saying you should do this. I'm saying you might have an option you weren't aware of.

Eh, they're cheap enough just to try it. This is the set I went with. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWRUICG/

Yep!

I got this one

I learned about it when I was planning my PC and looking for ways around having to use wifi. thought it was too good to be true. It isn't.

For anyone finding this thread via Google, the Asus BT-400 works great.

http://www.amazon.com/ASUS-USB-Adapter-Bluetooth-USB-BT400/dp/B00DJ83070

Sounds like a powerline adapter with WiFi would do the job, like one of these.

It'll use your house's powerlines to transmit an ethernet signal from your router to whatever room you like (you get two boxes, one for in one for out) and then broadcast it as it's own WiFi network.

I've used an ethernet-only set for years after getting tired of wifi's latency and general crappiness. So much better!

However, make sure the power sockets being used for the input and output boxes are on the same power circuit- you can test this using your house's circuit breaker. If they both turn off when you flip one of the breaker switches, they're connected and will work.

2 story house? id forget about wifi and get a bunch of powerline adapters like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AWRUICG/

Micro-stuttering and high ping spikes are usually caused by packet loss, which often has to do with shitty WiFi. Some games seem to handle poor connections worse than others. I had a similar experience with Titanfall 2.

I resolved in by plugging in Ethernet. It's not a convenient solution, but since the connection issues are coming from you, there's nothing the devs can really do.

If you don't have an ethernet port in your room, try a Powerline adapter. (Not an affiliate link or anything, just an example of the cheapest one you can get)

You get two adapters. Plug one into a wall outlet near your modem and plug an ethernet cord into it. Then you plug the other one into a wall outlet near your computer/xbox/PS4, and plug an ethernet cable from it into your machine. It basically turns your powerlines into a giant ethernet cable. It's not as fast as direct, but it's a million times better and more reliable than WiFi.

I recommend MOCA 2.0 over those. I have a bunch at home and they work very well. However, You do need coax run to where you are planning to put your stuff - and it works better when you run it detached from the cable tv network.

edit:fixed url

If you're willing to spend $75 on a card then just get this. Assuming your house isn't age old, this will give you much more consistent internet connection and stronger

Why not try powerline network adapters? Something like TP-Link AV1000 1-Port Gigabit Powerline Adapter, Powerline speeds Up to 1000Mbps (TL-PA7010 KIT). These adapters will use the house electrical wiring to extend the Ethernet network from your network box upstairs to the PC downstairs.

You can use it on console. You stick one of these into an outlet near your router, connect them with an ethernet cable, then plug the other one into an outlet near your computer, then connect that to your console with another ethernet cable. These things take advantage of the wiring throughout your house and can send an internet signal through the lines on a different frequency than the power uses.

Here's the link: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-1000Mbps-TL-PA7010-KIT/dp/B06WP2ZT5N/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1523835339&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=ethernet+powerline+adapter&psc=1

Hardwired connection is always an option now. Can I introduce you to PowerLine technology? Use your power outlets for ethernet!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06WP2ZT5N/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494560193&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=PowerLine&psc=1


This would only not be an option if you are in different houses.

Unfortunately most gaming headsets are quite overpriced, a popular option without spending a lot is this mic that clips onto normal headphone wires ($8) maybe get that and save up for a better headset or some good headphones and a modmic.

For the internet if you have to use wireless get the internal card, if you can run an ethernet cable do that and consider a cheap usb adapter for interim.

I think you're mixing issues... Klisch will certainly let you install software or drivers if you need.

And antennas don't need drivers or software, it's the card that needs a driver.

I use an Alfa external card, and Amazon will recommend several antennas if you need more than that.

https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-802-11b-Wireless-Original-9dBi/dp/B001O9X9EU

I've also heard good stuff about TPLink external cards. https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-N150-Wireless-Adapter-TL-WN722N/dp/B002SZEOLG

I would take a Raspberry Pi.
Add an HDMI to VGA Cable.
Mix in a little Wi-fi Adapter.
Season to taste. (Wireless KB/M, USB drive, Chromecast, Wireless controller, Nintendo Emulator, Wireless speakers, etc...)
Mount behind monitor and mount monitor on wall in garage or bathroom and add a dash of power.
And then play games, watch movies, sports, etc....In the bathroom, garage, shed...

^(I have no idea if this would work but now I want to try it).

^^*Fixed ^^spelling

$8

Edimax EW-7811Un 150Mbps 11n Wi-Fi USB Adapter, Nano Size Lets You Plug it and Forget it, Ideal for Raspberry Pi / Pi2, Supports Windows, Mac OS, Linux (Black/Gold) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_e.tNxbKF8WXNB

This adapter works when following these instructions.

What you're looking for is a receiver.

This is a cheap and capable one: http://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/denavr1513/denon-avr-1513-5.1ch-home-theater-receiver-3d-ready/1.html

If you need bluetooth, you could just get an adaptor like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-980-000910-Bluetooth-Audio-Adapter/dp/B00IQBSW28

Your can send music over bluetooth - get one of these to plug into your receiver. If you're too far for bluetooth - Apple's Airport Express receives music via AirPlay. Both can connect via standard 3.5mm stereo jacks.

You can get a Bluetooth receiver and connect it to your receiver. Then you pair your Dot to the Bluetooth receiver when you want and it will play through your audio setup. I'll find an example on Amazon and post back.

Edit - something like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IQBSW28/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1480902563&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=bluetooth+receiver&dpPl=1&dpID=41UR6fEoZTL&ref=plSrch

Not really - they're trying to get the price as low as possible while still generating profit. I'm sure they have stats on how many people use the port, and it didn't make sense to include it when looking at the cost / benefit analysis.

People that want it can pick up an adapter for $15 and go on their way.

Will this work on the switch?

> Can I just use any inexpensive ethernet adaptor, or is it recommended that I use the one specific for the Switch?

The Switch can only use adapters with chips that are, or act like, the ASIX AX88772 chipset.

You don't need a Switch branded one though. I suggest this AmazonBasics one, although you need the USB3 version; even though the Switch doesn't support USB3, the USB2 variant uses a non-compatible chipset.

> Will anything bad happen like the bricking when put into a 3rd party dock, or will there really be no difference?

It just won't work. Nothing bad will happen, but nothing at all will happen.

----
See this post for more information.

you need this ethernet to usb adapter plus this apple usb c adapter.

I don't know if the macbook is compatible with other usb c adapters though. If it is, then you could save a little there, but still, 100$ to connect with an ethernet cable, after purchasing a 1000+$ pc...

I think the problem might be the ethernet adapter. I don't have that adapter, but it looks like the USB 2.0 version doesn't work with the Switch; you want the USB 3.0 version.

EDIT: Yeah, I definitely think it's your adapter. Look at all the reviews that mention the Switch on the USB 2.0 version versus the USB 3.0 version

You can get an adapter for a wired connection, like this: UGREEN LAN Adapter USB 2.0 Netzwerk USB zu RJ45 Ethernet Adapter 10/100Mbps https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00MYT481C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Mm1RBbAZA6Z08

For my Wii U, I just use one of these.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ethernet-Adapter-Macbook-Chromebook-Windows/dp/B00MYT481C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486208769&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=ugreen+ethernet+to+usb&psc=1

Hopefully it works with my Switch.

I designed and built this coop with inspiration from other designs. We have a unused side yard that we turned into a chicken pen with a coop. In about 3 months our chickens should start producing eggs!

Here is the parts list for the Pi camera:

• Raspberry Pi Zero Camera (F) Focal Adjustable Module Night Vision +2 pcs IR Sensor LED Light
  
• Active PoE Splitter with usb out
  
• BME280 Digital Sensor
  
• Ethernet Adapter USB 2.0
  
• Raspberry Pi Zero
  
  

Microsoft suggested this bluetooth adapter for WMR in one of their troubleshooting guides.

This one. It was actually $14. My bad.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009ZIILLI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Just get a USB wifi adapter. Something like this or if you want one thats smaller and less in the way you can get this one. The smaller one probably has less range and lower max speed.

Or if you have extra expansion slots and need faster wifi you can get a PCIe wifi card like this.

NOTE: I haven't done much research on this so the listed products are just examples of the types of solutions available. By no means am I recommending these as the best in their respective classes. I just own TP-link stuff and trust them is all.

I found that using a better bluetooth controller works better. If you know how to use bluetoothctl in the terminal its super useful. Something like this will work well.
The bluetooth works much better for me after as the built in one i got about a metre away before it would have issues now i can get 20m~ with the external one. I have a feeling its a mix between cheap bluetooth designs and the drivers for the chips. For reference I have a C101PA

I'll add to this thread.

If your motherboard has integrated bluetooth, it most likely has the antennae at the back of the computer and probably has wifi combined with it. Both of these are a problem. Get a "dongle" and use a cable to bring it to your desktop or use one of the usb ports on the front of your computer.

As per Microsoft: do NOT use a usb3 port!

Microsoft recommended dongle.

You can buy Bluetooth adapters for under $15 while the Xbox adapter currently costs $32, so this is a good thing.

It'd be cheaper to just get a Bluetooth adapter on Amazon while you're at it. At least then you can use it for other things as well.

One like this. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009ZIILLI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_J4ZPyb23DGPF1

It could be possible but I don't know if it would the phone would pump out that much power.

We already have stuff like http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003MTTJOY/ref=redir_mdp_mobile/190-9632706-9095906 (I use one on my older laptop that has a fried wlan card, this USB wlan works like a charm)


If we can get a USB OTG phone and somehow load the drivers for this USB wifi adapter and then add software that makes the WiFi Hotspot work, then sure.

I think the steam controller dongle is RF. in any case, the kinivo BTD-400 works well or you can get the ASUS USB-BT400. in my experience though, these really only work well if you're withing 3-5 ft.

https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-BTD-400-Bluetooth-4-0-USB/dp/B007Q45EF4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498406729&sr=8-1&keywords=kinivo+bluetooth+usb

Anyone recommend a bluetooth device so I could connect a wiimote to my pc?

Would something like this work?

I use this with Ubuntu GNOME daily. No config or software installation was necessary.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-oU8yb19MESCZ

Edimax EW-7811Un on Amazon

Works right out the box.

^^^pcie*
There are a few options.

1. Use a USB card. They're cheap, universal, and (usually) highly reliable. Just be careful about speed, I once bought an edimax usb card and it was great, but then bought a cheap kootek one and it was actually only capable of around 1mbps
   
2. You can buy a powerline adapter. These let you use your existing power lines as ethernet cables, meaning essentially wherever there's an outlet, you can connect a device to ethernet.
   
3. Just run a really, really, long ethernet cable and staple it to the baseboards. the least likely choice, but i personally don't mind it so i figured i'd throw it in there.
   Keep in mind that you're always gonna get faster speeds with a cable as opposed to wireless.
   Merry Christmas, by the way

I've had no problems with this one from Amazon: Plugable USB 2.0 to 10/100 Fast Ethernet LAN Wired Network Adapter for Macbook, Chromebook, Windows 10, 8.1 and Earlier, Surface Pro, Wii, Wii U, Linu https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00484IEJS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_WNPNa6POX637P

Worked right away, and never disconnects. My only issue with the Mi Box so far is that every few days Google Play movies won't work until I reboot. Not a big deal though.

Good luck!

I've got both. FireTV ran XBMC really well out of the box and it still does. I got the Nexus Player a couple weeks ago and it's currently running version 13.2. It navigates the menus just as well as the FireTV, but playback of media is where I have issues.

I get random crashes to the home screen during playback regardless of file type. My enterprise grade wireless N AP is one foot away from the Nexus Player and higher bit rate 1080p media stuttered constantly. So I bought a usb to ethernet adapter, which now works much better.

I plan on upgrading to the 14.2 beta on both devices when I get the time which some people are saying fix some of the playback issues for the Nexus, but right now, just for XBMC, I'd recommend the FireTV.

This one is very small and says in the title that it works with Mac OS.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY/

Yeah, one of these (supported by urtwn) in one of these. Not ideal, but hopefully temporary.

The NES Pi Cart was my first project too. I enjoyed the process immensely. Before I started I couldn't solder and had no clue what 'sudo' meant. Now I've built three retro systems, also since December, two with LED's, with zero prior Linux knowledge. I can suggest this guide which will give you a completed system in a few hours.

https://howchoo.com/g/mti0oge5nzk/pi-cart-a-raspberry-pi-retro-gaming-rig-in-an-nes-cartridge?utm_source=facebook&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=picart

If you want plug n play then Buy a NES classic. If you wanna learn some new skills keep on the course man. Had to try some different wifi dongles myself. This one works out of the box with retro Pie and Pi Zero. sNES30 controllers never worked for me. Return and try wired maybe. PS4 controller works flawlessly for me.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_ECL4xI3dTpHx7

It sends the signal over the power lines.

You plug them into electrical sockets. Some are better than others. You definitely want to do research before buying.

I use some that work flawlessly, except they disconnect every once in a while, and take a few minutes to reconnect. The signal is great over a pretty long distance, and the speeds are as advertised.

One thing to keep in mind is your speed is going to be only as fast as the slowest point. Since you didn't mention it, I'd recommend physically connecting a computer to the router and seeing what kind of speeds you get you of that. If your ISP just isn't delivering on the high speed, going super fast inside the house won't get you anywhere (unless you do a lot of file transfers inside the house).

I don't know what kind of building materials are used in your house, but the majority of the time wifi will work just fine. For myself, I started with a set of Powerline Adapters, but was relatively unimpressed with them. Your wiring may work better though, try them out and keep your receipt.

I ended up using just regular wifi for my setup, and since I am only paying for 100 down, it is more than fast enough. The adapter I got has big antenna, and going through a few walls isn't an issue at all. Whole lot cheaper (and less effort) than trying to run some wires over to where my office is. Strangely, I get better / more consistant performance out of the regular wifi channels rather than the 5ghz too. Still goes faster than my internet, so I don't care

You would like to get:

1. Access Point
   
2. Adapter
   
   This will give coverage to your whole house. It will run you about ~ $60 dollars.

I use a TP-link poweline adapter. It works great for streaming and gaming. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AWRUICG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1415471292&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40

this

Is the most amazing thing I've bought. I didn't think it'd work well but I'm getting my max upload and download speeds without any connection issues like I do with wifi. (Router is downstairs I'm upstairs) also bought mine at Frys.

I use this on my PS4 and it more than doubled my speed from when I was trying WiFi. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AWRUICG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421532993&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

Very easy to install, then you choose wired connection instead of wireless. Best thing I've done for my PS4. I get the same speeds now as if I was plugged directly into the modem.

It's essentially two adapters. You plug an ethernet cord from your router into one, and then plug that into your wall outlet.

You plug the other into a wall outlet near your PC, and run an ethernet cable from that, to your PC.

Faster than Wifi, and runs on magic or some shit. Amazon has one on sale right now:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AWRUICG/ref=s9_top_hd_bw_g147_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-2&pf_rd_r=01ZZVYCQNKNH6THBBH1Z&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=77b9e727-3844-3e7b-b75e-2a06ec7f4c9a%2F4d0e19de-8b0d-34bb-b36d-0788592b632d&pf_rd_i=1194444

There's no wifi adapters that'll work with Xbox one since there's no drivers for it...

And instead of running a 60 feet wire, why not just get a powerline like this?

It'll just run the signal through the copper power lines in your house and come out as a ethernet connection on the other adapter to plug into your console.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-Adapter-Starter-TL-PA2010KIT/dp/B00AWRUIY4

I use this one and it’s pretty good. I only get 20 mbps up/down with it when I usually get 100 mbps up/down wired directly to my router but ping is pretty consistently good

Unless you get a Slim or Pro, your best option is an Ethernet Wall plug adapter (something like this). It would help you get a wired connection without moving the router or PS4.

This is the exact one I use. It does its job. There are also powerline adapters that are supposedly pretty great. I don't have a set up that would work with them, but I've seen them recommended plenty of times.

Two options:

1. Get a set of Powerline Ethernet Adaptors. These allow you to run ethernet through the existing power lines in your home (without impacting their ability to deliver power), or
   
2. Get an external WiFi ethernet adaptor. This will plug into your PS4s ethernet jack, and will then connect to your WiFi router. A decent such adaptor is likely going to have better WiFi than is built into the PS4 (and you may be able to find one that has a better antenna as well).
   
   HTH!

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-Adapter-Starter-TL-PA4010KIT/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1501130350&sr=8-3&keywords=powerline+adapter

You should consider using one of these. I use one to have Ethernet hard wired to my PC in my home office which is not near the router. Speed is legit.

Use an ethernet cable if you are able.

If you have access to your router, you can try changing the channel settings to minimize interference with other nearby networks. Wifi Analyzer is an app you can use to find the best channel.

If the issue with ethernet is the distance to your router, you could look into something like these: https://smile.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-Adapter-Starter-TL-PA4010KIT/dp/B00AWRUICG

Plug one into your router and then plug in the other one wherever you play in your house and you'll get all the advantages of an ethernet cable.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_Vi6LzbZK41W7J

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-Adapter-Starter-TL-PA2010KIT/dp/B00AWRUIY4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1503496948&sr=8-3&keywords=ethernet+powerline+adapter

I recommend getting this over the Wireless Adapter.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AWRUIY4/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1490119089&sr=1-2&refinements=p_89%3ATP-Link&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&dpPl=1&dpID=41UExpKbEkL&ref=plSrch

This works very well for me

If you think the problem is with your wifi, try picking up a pair of power line adapters. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AWRUIY4/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1418561737&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

For $20, they let you run Ethernet over your power lines. I use several in my old home in the North End and they work great for me.

Your home have coaxial? Go with MOCA

https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Bonded-Ethernet-Adapter-ECB6200K02/dp/B013J7O3X0/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=moca+adapter&qid=1559224045&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Something like this. Basically, it will let you run an ethernet connection via coax.

https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Bonded-Ethernet-Adapter-ECB6200K02/dp/B013J7O3X0

​

I am sure others can chime in regarding the specifics of setting it up with your Comcast service. I haven't had Comcast or run MOCA in years, but it did work very well when I did.

​

MOCA is worth the investment. You just need a cheap router from goowill to blanket the house with WiFi. I use this one

Unless the cabling has been cut or otherwise disconnected inside the walls you most certainly should be able to use MoCa adapters to bridge ethernet through any available coax outlet in your apartment. I use actiontec double bonded moca 2.0 adapters and get ~980mbps across the existing coax in our house.
https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Bonded-Ethernet-Adapter-ECB6200K02/dp/B013J7O3X0

Useful to run ethernet from fiber terminal in the front of the house to a switch in the back that provides ethernet to server, two smartTvs, nas, printer and an AP providing signal to outdoor cams

This thingy on amazon might do it It's a standalone USB audio to Bluetooth transmitter. The PS4 should see it the same way it sees the USB dongle for the PlayStation Wireless Headsets.

id recommend these for a more solid connection and they work great

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-1000Mbps-TL-PA7010-KIT/dp/B06WP2ZT5N/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1525098338&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=powerline+tp&psc=1

Yeah, no problems at all.

My setup is windows 10 64 home and I connect the controller with a kinivo bluetooth adapter. Pairing with windows was easy.

Also, a helpful hint when you're done gaming, a single press of the sync button on the pro controller turns it off.

• you need bluetooth adapter this is the recommended
  
• buy steam games you want now, the steam sale end in 2 hours
  
• buy extension cables for the bluetooth, usb and hdmi cables

>Do I need to purchase a 4.0 or better adapter

Yes, it won't work with 3.0 adapters.

There's the Plugable BT 4.0 adapter that has official Linux support, although I haven't tested it yet on Linux.

EDIT: Can confirm the Plugable adapter works in Linux with the bluetooth Xbox one controlller.

>Modern WiFi is almost always better than powerline so it is not a surprise there.

I bought a cheapo Netgear $20 USB dongle in the meantime, and it's pretty awful. I have a chromecast and smartphone which I use alot and they have NEVER dropped out from my network using WiFi. However, my brand new USB dongle has dropped out about 4 times in 5 hours and the speed is very consistent, very frustrating to use and terrible for streaming video especially.

Is that because USB WiFi is trash in general, or because I just bought a cheap one? Should I look into buying a PCI-e WiFi card like this?

MAC addresses are tied to the physical adapter being used. A "MAC address ban" could be easily circumvented by buying one of these or even more simply, switching from wifi to ethernet or ethernet to wifi (as it would be a different physical adapter hence different MAC address).

AmazonBasics USB 3.0 to 10/100/1000 Gigabit Ethernet Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M77HMU0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_EC3vCbH07JBQR

UGREEN Network Adapter USB 3.0 to Ethernet RJ45 Lan Gigabit Adapter for 10/100/1000 Mbps Ethernet Supports Nintendo Switch Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MYTSN18/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_oC3vCb173PES1

Older Thunderbolt 1 and 2 devices, such as those designed for Apple Mac products, would need an adapter to work with Thunderbolt 3, since Thunderbolt 1 and 2 used Mini DisplayPort (mDP) ports while Thunderbolt 3 switched to USB Type-C.

From slowest to fastest, you have:

• 480 Mbits/s: USB 2.0
  
• 5 Gbits/s: USB 3.0 (aka "USB 3.1 Gen 1", confusingly)
  
• 10 Gbits/s: USB 3.1 Gen 2 (aka true USB 3.1)
  
• 40 Gbits/s: Thunderbolt 3
  
  That's for speed. For the shape of the plug, you can either have USB Type-A (traditional USB shape) or Type-C (the new shape). There's not necessarily any connection between the shape of the plug and speed, though on the XPS 15 9550 the only Type-C port is a Thunderbolt 3 / USB 3.1 Gen 2 port, while the other Type-A ports are USB 3.0. The new MacBook and Chromebook Pixel have USB 3.1 Gen 1 (equivalent to USB 3.0 speed) Type-C ports, while many smartphones coming out with Type-C ports are still working at USB 2.0 speeds.
  
  USB 3.0 or above would be preferable, so that gigabit Ethernet is supported. You can get one that uses the Type-C port if you want, but it will still work at the same speed (USB 3.0) as the normal Type-A version. Adapters that take advantage of USB 3.1, much less Thunderbolt 3, are still rather rare. In any case, using Thunderbolt 3 just for Ethernet would be overkill: better to save the Thunderbolt 3 port for a full-scale dock or an external graphics card.
  
  So, enough background. Some options:
  
  
• AmazonBasics USB 3.0 to 10/100/1000 Gigabit Ethernet Adapter ($16.95)
  
• Anker Unibody Aluminum 3-Port USB 3.0 and Gigabit Ethernet Hub ($26.99)
  
• Anker USB-C to 3-Port USB 3.0 Hub with Ethernet Adapter for USB Type-C Devices ($27.99)
  
  The two Anker devices also include a three port USB 3.0 hub, for connecting other stuff.

Don't buy this one. It's $27 which is way too much for a LAN adapter. This one is less than $12 and works with the Switch just fine as well.

Everyone should grab this: https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Ethernet-Adapter-Nintendo-Chromebook/dp/B00MYT481C/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1527707748&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=ugreen+ethernet+adapter&psc=1

Got this one for $10. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MYT481C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Works perfect

I’m not sure if you want someone to give you a TL;DR or if you’re are saying OP should have put one.

Either way TL;DR: Buy an Ethernet adapter, It’s not that expensive, will give you a much better connection, and will make other people’s online experiences better as well. If you do get one, buy a USB 3-Ethernet adapter with an AX88179 chipset. Like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AQM8586

I went with this model.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AQM8586/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Costs a little more but it's USB 3.0. I figured the inside port supports it and who knows if and when Nintendo will support dedicated servers.

Besides, there are plenty of other devices that support it.

USB 3.0 devices work on USB 2.0 ports no problem. What matters here is what drivers are built in on the system, so if a USB 3.0 LAN adapter has the right chipset, it'll work (but operate at USB 2 speeds). I use this USB 2.0 adapter on my Wii U, and this 3.0 adapter on my Switch. The Switch supports both chipsets to allow compatibility with the older official adapter, but the Wii U doesn't support the newer gigabit adapter's chipset.

Try one of these as you will get a faster and more stable connection

I used to use QoS using Tomato firmware on an ASUS RT N-16. It made things better but it wasn't even close to perfect.

I got myself a pair of Powerline adapters and connected it directly to the router. I highly recommend you do the same. I used this setup after I moved and didn't set up QoS.

I use this: https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Powerline-Adapter-Starter-TL-PA4010KIT/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474796121&sr=8-1&keywords=powerline+adapters

The cheaper one needed to be restarted once/twice a day. This one I never had to.

If you're having issues with ping and bandwidth from wireless, try powerline adapters. They run data through your wiring by slightly altering the frequency the electricity is going through. They're fast, fairly reliable (not perfect, but FAR better than wireless), and resolved all of my ping and bandwidth issues, allowing me to play several rooms away from the ethernet adapter without significant ping difference or internet speed issues.

Also helped my parents resolve the problem of poor wireless reception on the bottom floor of their house (their wireless router is on the third floor).

So I sent my ps4 in and they sent me a new one and the problem still existed, I ended up getting power line adapters(http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PA4010KIT-Powerline-Adapter-Starter/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393865305&sr=8-1&keywords=powerline+adapter) to make my ps4 have a wired connection using my powerlines, and now it's super fast. 18-19 mbps when my connections is 20mbps.

Just get a Bluetooth adapter for your PC. They are very cheap and will work just fine.

It sounds to me like your Bluetooth speaker is in pairing mode based on the flashing led and will not work with the USB in that state. If you can enable the USB then you should be all set but it's possible the USB is just for charging.

An example of a BT adapter - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009ZIILLI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Rcbtyb4G6XCC1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009ZIILLI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Is what I use, works great. I've had to go through a few bluetooth adapters and this has been the best one for keyboards/mice/controllers for me. Works fine with the XB1 controller for me.

A lot of the other ones would drop keyboard input or want you to install some software crap. This is just plug n play.

Plugable
works well with the new Xbox S controller - though I only connect one controller at a time.

I'm not sure if you can get your hands on a Raspberry Pi Zero W, but that has on-board bluetooth and wifi. It really cuts down on the clutter.

If not, I use this one on my Pi2. 0 issues.

I use a DS4 + InputMapper w/ regular bluetooth usb adapter w/ perfect results (this one infact: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009ZIILLI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). Has worked flawlessly for over a year w/ no signal drops/interruption.

I went with this one, but it looks like the price has gone up since. I think any with BT 4.0 support will work though.

Here a 3.0 LAN adapter for $15

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AQM8586/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_UyjIybHHAFP76

Assuming you mean LAN Adapter? I got this one and it works great: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AQM8586

For the cable itself you can get just about any Cat5E/Cat6 cable of the length you need and it should work fine.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AQM8586

This is the one I have.

Ugreen 3.0 or Pluggable are your best bet!

https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Network-Ethernet-Supports-Nintendo/dp/B00MYTSN18/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1542676517&sr=1-5&keywords=ugreen+ethernet+adapter

https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Ethernet-Gigabit-Network-Compatible/dp/B00AQM8586/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542676561&sr=8-3&keywords=pluggable+ethernet

Avoid the Hori one, it's overpriced and it's also USB 2.0

Umm to be honest your probably fine with the one you have. The reason I recommended the one there is because I have the 100MBPS UGREEN one and it works great and have had no issues. Even things as far as having the Ethernet cable stay securely into the adapter on these is nice which I have had one other where that was an issue. But yeah I imagine the Nintendo ones are great so you should be good with that!

EDIT: Nevermind someone mentioned before that there is a specific chipset for Ethernet adapters that is best for the Switch so if you don't have it might be best to upgrade. Here is the one I found for the best price that they recommended: https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Ethernet-Gigabit-Network-Adapter/dp/B00AQM8586

Anything with the ASIX AX88179 chipset should work fine.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M77HMU0/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MYTSN18/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AQM8586/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FFJ0RKE/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LLUEJFU/

All of the above should work with any Android based device. (ie. Shield TV, Mi Box or Fire TV)

I don't think it'll be much better, but the AX88179 chipset (axge driver) is listed on FreeBSD's HCL[1]. Lots of adapters have this chipset, here's one for example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AQM8586

Perhaps pfSense 2.4.4, with the new 11.2 kernel might bring some improvements. Looks like it's being released next week.

[1] https://www.freebsd.org/releases/11.2R/hardware.html

Never seen a Surface like device with an Ethernet port. I doubt one exists. They are mobile devices so an Ethernet port is counter to it's primary function.

>absolute best (reliable & smallest) usb adapter for Ethernet?

Hard to say... reviews are scarce. There's this from 2013:
http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,2817,2415501,00.asp
Still a good choice and there are interesting options...
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Gigabit-Ethernet-Network-Adapter/dp/B0095EFXMC/. 476 reviews 4.5 of 5

This from 2016 ... but 10/100??? Not fastest.
http://www.wirelesshack.org/our-picks-for-best-usb-to-ethernet-adapter.html
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Ethernet-Network-Adapter/dp/B00ET4KHJ2/ 804 reviews 4.3 of 5


Amazon popularity contest and products I have had good luck with
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00BBD7NFU/ 807 reviews 4.2 of 5

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PC0H9IE/ref=psdc_13983791_t3_B0095EFXMC 584 reviews 4.7 of 5

https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Gigabit-Ethernet-Network-Adapter/dp/B00AQM8586/. 767 reviews 4.5 of 5


So maybe the Anker model however... would you want fries ports with that?

The Switch only supports LAN adapters that use a particular chipset. I have an Acer branded one which isn't recognized on the Switch, but one by Trendnet which is. I believe there's a list of supported adapters somewhere but I'm on mobile and lazy.

Edit: Adapters that use either the AX88772 (widely used, but slower than 802.11ac WiFi) or AX88179 (less common, but true gigabit speed) chipsets should work. According to the product page of this Plugable adapter, it should be compatible. Is this the one you bought?

Plugable USB 3.0 to Ethernet... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AQM8586
This one is great. Bought two of them.

I have the exact same LAN Adapter it seems -

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AQM8586/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Least I know that's good, and removes one of the issues. I'll buy a new Ethernet cable and see if that can be the quick fix.

Get a couple of home plugs like these. Be done with crappy wireless connections

https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Powerline-Adapter-Starter-TL-PA4010KIT/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468626937&sr=8-1&keywords=home+plugs

Either a long cable, or a powerline adapter.

A PowerLine device, like the other guy suggested is perfect for avoiding running Ethernet. I use them around the house for running network to my TV, Xbox, and media player. You can even connect a network switch on the receiving end to connect multiple devices.

It basically uses the power lines in your home/apartment as an Ethernet connection. Generally much faster than Wi-Fi, and the greatest advantage is signal stability. You get a solid and consistently low ping, which you can't always get from wireless. Also, all data that is sent between adapters is encrypted, and it takes about 30 seconds to set up.

The previous recommendation is a much older device that is really slow and overpriced.

Get this and you'll be set!

TP-LINK TL-PA4010KIT AV500 Nano Powerline Adapter Starter Kit, up to 500Mbps by TP-LINK:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWRUICG/

Edit: added second paragraph for more details.

Absolutely worth it. I use this one for my rig, which gives me faster speeds than WiFi and was a breeze to setup. I've had it for a couple years now and will probably stick with powerline adapters moving forward.

Don't get that SSD. it has known performance issues.

Here's a 250 GB Evo 840 (also known issues but not as bad as kingston) for $65. Link

Also definently go i5 if you can. Do you need wifi in your motherboard? WIll a powerline adapter work for you?


>Being that this is my first PC I'm still learning about all the connections on the MOBO. What are some gotchas I should be looking out for?

Make sure the PSU has an 8 pin connector - your graphics card will require it. They usually have a 6+2 pin or an 8 pin. Edit!! - looks like it has a 6+2 pin, you're good OP.

Also be advised - that is a non-modular PSU (which is fine) but your case is a mini-ITX. I have had that case in the past. Cable management is challenging but not impossible, especially if you do nothing with the 5.25" bay drive. But if you load it up to capacity, it's gonna be a tight fit.

Are you using WiFi to stream or are you hard wired?

My wife and I had the same issue with ours cutting out and it was because our router was in a different room compared to the TV. I installed one of these and we haven’t had issues with quality or it cutting in and out.

Powerline Adapter!

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PA4010KIT-Powerline-Adapter-Starter/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408836237&sr=8-1&keywords=powerline+adapter

Use power to Ethernet adaptors. They are great (or they won't work at all, it all depends on how your home is wired up).

Something like this

Don't re-wire your phone plugs to be Ethernet unless they are all home-run (meaning each jack goes to the basement, and not daisy-chained together) Also, I would only consider this if they are CAT5e runs (not CAT5 or CAT3, or simply phone wire)

You could use any of these other options...

• EnGenius EAP600 in bridge mode - it connects to your WiFi, then gives you an Ethernet jack out to connect your TV/DVD/XBox, you could even go EAP600 > Small Ethernet switch > multiple devices
  
  
• Ethernet extender over any 2-pair (even crappy phone wiring) http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-VDSL2-Ethernet-Extender-Single/dp/B002CLKFTG
  If you have more than one device on the far end, use a switch: VDSL2Extender > Small Ethernet switch > multiple devices
  
  
• Ethernet over coax: http://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Ethernet-Adapter-without-Routers/dp/B008EQ4BQG (warning, will not work when DirectTV is on the Coax line or some bi-directional cable systems, requires good splitters, better to use with an isolated Coax line not used for antenna or cable system at all)
  
  
• Ethernet over powerline (last resort, could have bad performance based on noisy appliances) http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PA2010KIT-Powerline-Adapter-Starter/dp/B00AWRUIY4
  
  

If you're able to, I'd recommend using a powerline adapter. It's essentially allowing for a wired connection through outlets.
I use it because I'm so far from my router and went from ~10 on wireless to the ~20 I'm paying for.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AWRUIY4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500433377&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=tp+link&dpPl=1&dpID=41UExpKbEkL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-USB-Adapter-Bluetooth-USB-BT400/dp/B00DJ83070

Can't really go wrong with this.

Guys - this seller has a USB plug for 1000 dollars.
http://www.amazon.com/ASUS-USB-Adapter-Bluetooth-USB-BT400/dp/B00DJ83070/ref=aag_m_pw_dp?ie=UTF8&m=A20F6RQJB8XGLY


The store prices make 0.0% sense.

I would avoid Wi-Fi as much as you can but sometimes it's necessary. I have tried the dongle (usb) only to have an unstable connection and for it to crap out after a couple of months. I had a mid range tp-link card and that failed after a year, and it never gave me super stable connections. The card linked below is the one I have and I've been very happy with it.

ASUS PCE-AC68 AC1900 Dual-Band Wireless Pci-E Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F42V83C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-M-kDbAPWQ5NS

The R7000 is capable of 900Mbps+ WAN<>LAN.

• Make sure you're on the latest firmware.
  
• Make sure that CTF / NAT Acceleration is enabled on the R7000.
  
  
• Try a different network cable between the CL modem and R7000.
  
  
  If you want to go wireless, you need a PCI-E AC class adapter for your PC:
  
  http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Archer-T9E-Beamforming-Low-profile/dp/B00TQEX7AQ/
  
  http://www.amazon.com/Dual-Band-Wireless-AC1900-PCI-E-Adapter-PCE-AC68/dp/B00F42V83C/
  
  

This is what I am running at home, and it works flawlessly. I own both the portable and the Shield, and use both with this router without issue.

I am also running a wireless PCE-AC68 card from my PC, instead of wired, but again have zero issues.

If you have the PCIE slot to spare, I highly recommend using that instead. You can get much better performance in both power and speed over the USB option. That being said, here are four recommendations based on your needs:

1. USB, budget - BrosTrend, $26
   
2. USB, performance - ASUS USB-AC68, $76
   
3. PCIE, budget - TP-Link Archer T4E, $35
   
4. PCIE, performance - ASUS PCE-AC68, $87
   
   Personally, I have the PCE-AC68 that I bought for $75 3 years ago and it's still rocking.

http://www.amazon.com/Dual-Band-Wireless-AC1900-PCI-E-Adapter-PCE-AC68/dp/B00F42V83C/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

This one has good reviews

ASUS Dual-Band Wireless-AC1900 PCI-E Adapter

https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Dual-Band-Wireless-AC1900-Adapter-PCE-AC68/dp/B00F42V83C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1521657739&sr=8-2&keywords=asus+pce+ac88

I used this card when I was renting in someone's house, good card for the 6 months or so I used it. Moved somewhere else and went back to a wired connection, but it was the best card I tried.

I have the Asus AC68U Router paired with an Arris 6190 Modem. Blazing speeds ready for Gigabit internet. I'm a network engineer, and this is what i use.

Edit: I also game with this Asus PCIe WiFi Adapter

Perfect. Going with this: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AV600-Powerline-WiFi-Extender/dp/B00HSQAIQU/ref=zg_bs_1194444_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=XK2QTDWSHJJP17MAX7PT

Will your roommates be able to afford their own service if you stop paying nearly half of it ?

Rather than sell the souls of your as yet unborn children to Verizon, have you thought about ethernet over power ? https://www.amazon.com/Extender-Powerline-Starter-300Mbps-Wireless/dp/B00HSQAIQU/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1505064507&sr=1-2&keywords=ethernet+over+power+wifi

What you might want to look into are power line adapters. Something like this. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HSQAIQU/ref=s9_top_hm_b50jE_g147_i2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=mobile-hybrid-11&pf_rd_r=06XWQR8D72M1RDXRX4M2&pf_rd_t=30901&pf_rd_p=3b52e653-8edc-59d8-8d3e-b10a96ef91ed&pf_rd_i=1194444


What these do is allow you to use the existing wiring in your house via wall plugs. You plug one in by the modem/router and plug a cable in. Then plug the second half by your Xbox with a short cable from it to the Xbox.

Sounds about perfect for your situation 😊

If for some reason installing a cable to directly connect your router to your PC via an ethernet cable is not possible (either you have floors in the way, or just esthetically unviable) you should give PLC a shout, Power-line communication.

Summarizing, it is a device that will carry out data through your electric current without adding noticeable delay. You can connect one device into a power plug, connect an ethernet cable from it to your PC. Then do the same in the room your router/box is at.

This is how they look like, and how much they cost

Look into a powerline ethernet setup. Worked wonders for me.https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AV600-Powerline-Ethernet-Adapter/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=sr_1_4?crid=376ZQ5COBBWMQ&keywords=powerline+ethernet+adapter&qid=1572378386&sprefix=powerline%2Caps%2C215&sr=8-4

Have you considered something like a powerline adapter?
https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Powerline-Adapter-Starter-TL-PA4010KIT/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1478127137&sr=1-3&keywords=powerline+adapter

I play using one of these and it works just great. =)

Try this

TP-Link AV600 Nano Powerline ethernet Adapter Starter Kit, Powerline speeds up to 600Mbps (TL-PA4010KIT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_i_UxIbBbJWJ83TK

This might help, I’ve heard it’s better than WiFi although I’ve never tried it. 100mbps is plenty, I don’t think the extra speed will help if you’re still on WiFi.

Pretty sure they don't work on power strips, only if directly plugged into the wall.

Also I only paid like $40 for this then another $25 for this. I don't know if that counts as skimping but it wasn't expensive. I've been very happy with them.

What you need is a PowerLine adapter.

If your wifi sucks, and you can't run an ethernet cable from your router, I'd suggest one of these. It's a powerline adapter. Basically, it just uses the electrical wires in your home to send the signal.

He means like these. Plug the adapters into outlets near the router and xbox and use two short ethernet cables to connect them. Although at that price and for how long before you move it's probably not worth it.

Ethernet cord goes out of PS4, and goes into adapter

Adapter goes into power outlet

Another adapter goes into another outlet

Ethernet cord comes from the adapter

Ethernet cord goes into router

Karma gets put into my little karmawhore hands.

now go forth

I just set these up over the weekend in my apartment. I bought the 500mbps kit, and since I'm not in a house I'm not getting the full bandwidth I should, but it was still a great upgrade. With the monitoring software it comes with I see the speeds range from 70-140mbps - loads better than the 40mbps I would average on WIFI.

In a house with good wiring, oh man, these babies would revolutionize your network.

Oh btw the TP Link set is far more afforable than the D Link ones, and from what I've read the performance is on par.

Edit: I forgot to mention, network latency is what is causing your problems with fast forwarding and rewinding over WIFI. These powerline adapters will drop your ping to a very low number and should alleviate the problems you mention.

A pair of lil boxes with AC prongs on one end and an ethernet in/out on the other. Signal path looks like this:

Modem >> ethernet cable 1 >> powerline adapter 1 >> wall outlet 1 (no extension cords) >> electrical lines >> wall outlet 2 >> powerline adapter 2 >> ethernet cable 2 >> PC

Link to the ones I've been using for a while and have had no issues with.

Or even a powerline adapter

[you should try getting a powerline adapter.] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AWRUICG/ref=s9_acsd_top_hd_bw_b50jE_c_x_1_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&pf_rd_r=PHH3FEQKDJ9VFFTB1BPQ&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=2885e2ab-dcd5-586f-b78f-00f40c823d7f&pf_rd_i=1194444)

I will never go back to playing on wifi.

Wireless is always good, but if you've got a ton of space an walls between you and the modem, maybe you could take a look at powerline adapters?

Just made a post about this myself the other day and I have Comcast as my ISP. Some people recommended me to look into getting a powerline network adapter, and doing some research they've apparently helped a lot of PS4 users with slow internet connection.

This one's going for $30 currently and it seems to be fairly popular with the PS4 crowd, so you may want to check it out: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AWRUICG/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Can't give any feedback myself on it or any other adapter as I haven't purchased one yet, but they seem to be a highly praised method.

I recently helped set this up for someone. It worked well.

We used these:
http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AWRUICG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Honestly, your best bet is Ethernet powerline adapters. They use the power wiring to transmit from your router, super easy.

Powerline Adaptor is a miracle sent from heaven to you.

I don't even see why you would do the latter, do you have more than one ethernet connection? It's built to work from the router though.

If you're not willing to run a cable from your router to the TV you could consider getting those devices that expand your network through the power network. (basically plug one device in a power socket in the room where the router is and the other in a socket close to where you're going to use the Steam Link (random example)

Why don't you use a power line adapter? It uses the electric system to bring the ethernet signal around the house.

I have three of them and my siblings and me play online games at the same time without any problems. Here in Italy we have really bad 20 megabits connections and our ping is around 50ms anyway.

EDIT: I use this model.

I was referring to WiFi channels - but that might not help if your router is a problem or you are not getting enough bars.

If you don't mind spending few bucks - I recommend buying a Powerline Adapter like this one .

Basically you get a pair of adapters with Ethernet port each. You plug one adapter in wall power plug near the router and attach a Ethernet cable between it and the router. The second adapter does the same but in the room where your PC is - it basically transmits upto 200Mbps over your power lines. It is hassle free if your house isn't too old.

something like this you mean?

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PA2010KIT-Powerline-Adapter-Starter/dp/B00AWRUIY4/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1463407217&sr=8-5&keywords=ethernet+powerline+adapter

I've got one of these in my house. For some reason I didn't think they'd work here, but if they do that's a very reasonable alternative. Thanks!

Powerline adapter is what you would want. Its just plug and use, easy as that, won't cost you no more than $50 also. My modem locates on the first floor and my Xbox sits on 2nd story of my house but thanks to the adapter, my Xbox is now wired in. The only thing is you need to plug the adapters straight into a wall socket, not in a surge or extender. This is the one that I use personally.

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PA2010KIT-Powerline-Adapter-Starter/dp/B00AWRUIY4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1408842952&sr=8-2&keywords=powerline+adapter

In terms of speed it is unlikely that you have 600Mbps Internet, so think of that as an advertising number. It makes people think "this one is faster" when it reality you likely don't have Internet speeds that support speeds that fast. I linked a TP-Link 200Mbps powerline adapter below. It is about half the cost compared to the TP-Link adapter you linked. The speed is up to 200Mbps, which most people don't have.

In the US the average Internet speeds are 55Mbps/18Mbps, so I would expect this to work nicely for you.
__
TP-Link 200Mbps ($24.95/$21.21 Used) - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWRUIY4

Agreed. But I got these: TP-LINK TL-PA2010KIT AV200 Nano Powerline Adapter Starter Kit, up to 200Mbps https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWRUIY4/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_PW-Aub1M4D0MW

You don't even need to spend 50. I'll link the one I have below. I love this thing! When I used to work tech support for Square-Enix, I used to recommend powerline adapters all the time. Basically in layman's terms, powerline adapters run your internet signal through the wiring in your house. You plug one side in by the router and plug it in via an Ethernet cord, then you plug the other adapter by your ps4 and hook it up via Ethernet. I jumped from like 15 mbps to 40. It requires zero set up other than that. I even have mine running to another router I have on my desk, so I have great wireless signal in my room. The ps4 unfortunately has the same wireless card as some of the Windows tablets. It was a huge step down from the ps3.

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PA2010KIT-Powerline-Adapter-Starter/dp/B00AWRUIY4/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1416115267&sr=1-2&keywords=powerline+adapter

Your build is amazing, the only issue i see here is from the 'Wireless network adapter'. Think about it, you have this workhorse of a PC that can do anything, play any game, render/compress anything. However we are throttling it by purchasing a cheap $10.00 'WiFi USB Adapter'. If you plan on playing games you need a hard line connection, if you cannot get a hardline connection from your PC to your Router, use this: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-Adapter-Starter-TL-PA2010KIT/dp/B00AWRUIY4/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1500930653&sr=1-3&keywords=powerline
Its called a "PowerLine" its the middle of the road between WiFi and a hard-line connection, its easily your best bet,

Here is a video explaining what a "PowerLine" is: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sue1Zvmh8JA

> My folks doesnt want me punching holes in their newly built house.

If you get AT&T and they have to bring a new line inside the house, they'll have to drill whatever holes they need AND you would need to run an Ethernet cable from the AT&T modem into the attic, and then into the wall into your room and you'd have to cut a hole into the wall and patch the cable in, well if you want ethernet. I had to do something similar for a friend's apartment and put one of these in the wall: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F15CKQQ/

OR you can buy some powerline adapters and see if that works to bring internet to your room. Like this: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-Adapter-Starter-TL-PA2010KIT/dp/B00AWRUIY4/

Running ethernet cables in the attic is much easier in a 1 story house, you just have to watch your footing and only step on the rafters, otherwise you'll fall through the ceiling. If you're in a 2 story house then good luck, not happening.


Powerline adapters are probably your best bet.

You could always try a power line adapter

Here is the one I use

I had the same problem. I bought a Powerline adapter, specifically this one. It's the best thing ever if your router is in a different room.

Get these: http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PA2010KIT-Powerline-Adapter-Starter/dp/B00AWRUIY4/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1422128425&sr=1-2&keywords=powerline+adapter

You hook one up to an outlet by your PS4 and another in an outlet by your router, connect the ethernet cables and then you've got a wired connection without having to run a 100 ft ethernet cable across your house. I couldn't play with my friends on Destiny using wifi a few months ago, but then I got these and they work great.

It's possible to have two different internet services at the same address, but have you thought about powerline networking? It would be a simpler and cheaper solution

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-Adapter-Starter-TL-PA2010KIT/dp/B00AWRUIY4/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1502212572&sr=1-1&keywords=powerline+networking

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power-line_communication

Hi there, sorry for the late answer I was out for the week-end!

It will depends highly on what you expect him to do with it, and also your budget. But for the more standard it will be at least:

• The Pi
  
  
• A power cable: the "Alim" was a bad use of a french word for power cable
  
  
• A case or another (You can also build one with Legos! :D )
  
  
• a microSD card for the OS (no preference I took the first link I saw)
  
  Then there can be:
  
  
• A usb wifi adapter if the can't plug an ethernet cable
  
  
• An hdmi cable if you think he will use it on his TV or standard PC monitor.
  
  
• About the controller, if you think he will build a media center linked to his TV with the HDMI cable, some TVs allow the use of "CEC" controller, and so his TV command will be automatically compatible with the Pi. Else, he can use a classic keyboard and mouse set, or some mobile solution or even a snes usb controller if he wants to build a retrogaming console
  
  
• To finish if you have a large budget for your friend there is a lot of accessories you can find in the related articles of the Pi on Amazon, like a webcam, a motion sensor module
  
  
• You can also buy a complete bundle or a starter kit like this if you think he will have fun with all the electronic parts :)
  
  And I confirm, it can be a pretty cool gift for a friend to build :)

Less than $10

I've used this one for every Pi I've owned, plus a few computers. It works great and doesn't need any drivers, but the signal range is kind of poor.

Easy. You'll need a monitor, ideally something with a USB port so you can use the USB power to power the Pi; otherwise you'll need a phone-charger style USB power supply to plug in. A SD or microSD card, depending on which model Pi you get. For wifi, something like this. For software, pick one the Digital Signage projects. http://elinux.org/RPi_Projects/Digital_Signage

Edimax EW-7811. ~7000 Amazon reviews, so you at least know it's reliable hardware-wise.

The manpage for urtwn(4) explicitly lists support for it. I've used mine in a Raspberry Pi under both FreeBSD and Linux with zero issues.

I had the Powermac G5 back in the day with the optional Apple WiFi card and it was not very good. I would maybe look for a USB WiFi solution like: http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY

I would just be sure to make sure that whatever USB WiFi adapter you get the drivers works on a PowerPC and 10.5.8.

I think the convenience of a bundle and free 2 day shipping will make a lot of people overlook an increase in price.

And buying all these components separate its only looking at like a 6 dollar increase, for your 56 dollars are you buying the same things?

http://www.amazon.com/Raspberry-Pi-Model-Project-Board/dp/B00T2U7R7I/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1449350224&sr=8-3&keywords=raspberry+pi+2b

http://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Case-Heat-Sinks/dp/B01188HGT0/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1449350251&sr=8-5&keywords=raspberry+pi+canakit+case

http://www.amazon.com/Kootek%C2%AE-Supply-Charger-Adapter-Raspberry/dp/B00NL7WK2U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449350270&sr=8-1&keywords=raspberry+pi+ac+adapter

http://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-MicroSDHC-Standard-Packaging-SDSDQUAN-008G-G4A/dp/B00M55C0VU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449350290&sr=8-1&keywords=8gb+micro+sd+card

http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1449350308&sr=1-1&keywords=wifi+dongle

http://www.amazon.com/HDMI-High-Speed-Cable-Supports/dp/B017TEUC66/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1449350332&sr=8-12&keywords=hdmi+cable


Thats 77 dollars. I'm sure you could find it for cheaper, but those are all comparable to whats actually in that kit (or exactly whats in that kit)

Hi, I'm a founder of Parsec. You should use this dongle. It works really well. https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY. Also, it's not about the bandwidth of 2.4 vs 5. It's about the interference. 5ghz is much better for that reason.

Will a cheap wifi adapter like this
https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY
work effectively?

http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-Wireless-Adapter-Wizard/dp/B003MTTJOY

Reccommended by multiple users in the community, I got it and it works perfectly, with no setup.

I use the (TP-LINK TL-WN881ND)[www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0079XWMEI] and the (Edimax EW-7811Un)[www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY]. I never had any problem with them

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003MTTJOY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482978078&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=edimax+ew-7811un&dpPl=1&dpID=31ChKj3dl7L&ref=plSrch

This one works without needing to install drivers to Tails, make sure to get the N150-Nano.

Never figured out how to make my Asus wifi stick work with Tails. Cheap one's far easier.

Aside from the intellectual challenge, have you considered buying a wifi adapter off Amazon for $10-15 that already has support in the raspbian kernel?

16 years ago we recompiled our kernels and we liked it by golly, but if there's no need to then please consider saving yourself the headache!

Edit: $8, prime shipping: This is the one I use with my pi - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MTTJOY - worked first time, no driver issues at all. I would recommend using the wifi setup tools (to connect to your access point) in the graphical windowed environment rather than manually through config file edits. Either way there are lots of tutorials out there.

I have this one. I don't use it that often because it's mainly for my Raspberry Pi, but it works perfectly on both Windows and Linux in my experience with no drivers to install.

I bought this thing: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00484IEJS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_uYrIybKSN8E92

Works well. Just plug it.

Absolutely nothing. DO NOT buy Apple's brand name products. The quality and internet speeds you will be getting are the same.

The likelihood that your bottleneck comes from the adapter is very low. Most likely you won't be receiving max speeds due to the college's internet service, not because your dongle isn't good enough. I recommend this adapter here.

Have you considered something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Ethernet-Network-Chromebook-Specific/dp/B00484IEJS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398037539&sr=8-1&keywords=usb+ethernet

If your Roku TV didn't come with an ethernet port, then you'll have to get some kind of Wifi router to plug into the ethernet and connect the Roku TV to that.

There are mixed reports of using USB-Ethernet adapters, but there's no easy way to know which ones are compatible as even different Roku TV models seem to have different results. I've seen mentions of this adapter working for some, but no guarantees can be made.

This is what i use for my Wii U (and also tried it on my Wii)

http://www.amazon.ca/Plugable-Ethernet-Network-Chromebook-Specific/dp/B00484IEJS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1381096569&sr=8-1&keywords=wii+u+lan+adapter

I have even used the MH3U Packet Relay Tools (which requires a LAN adapter) and it works just fine.

http://www.amazon.ca/Plugable-Ethernet-Network-Chromebook-Specific/dp/B00484IEJS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1420521458&sr=8-2&keywords=ethernet+wii+u

I live in Canada and I just bought this one a week ago for my new Wii U; it works perfectly. I have had no problems with it and it works right out of the box, plug-and-play. Made my connection much better for Smash Bros.

If this is the one you are referring to: http://www.amazon.ca/HDE%C2%AE-Ethernet-Adapter-Nintendo-Port/dp/B003XWD1G2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420521583&sr=8-1&keywords=ethernet+hde+wii+u

As long as it says it is specifically compatible with the Wii U, which it does (and so do the reviews), then you should be fine to get this one too. I can just personally vouch for the Plugable Technologies one.

USB ethernet adapters are hit or miss on the np. I bought one off amazon that didnt work. Then I bought this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00484IEJS/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and it did work.

This is what I have used now for the past two weeks, plugging in this and my keyboard/mouse unifying receiver.

This and this is what I use for console mode. This setup will let you charge and use Ethernet at the same time.

This or this should work fine. I have used the cheaper one for a couple years and has worked fine for my uses (wii remotes, ps3 controllers, file transfers to my phone.)

I use this, and it works great.

I got this one, and works perfectly with my PS4 controller. Cheap too.

http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-BTD-400-Bluetooth-4-0-adapter/dp/B007Q45EF4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415033363&sr=8-1&keywords=bluetooth+adapter

Here's one of the first ones that popped up

There's also one by playstation that you could check out but they're kind of expensive.

Ebay: http://www.ebay.com/sch/TP-Link-Wireless-Wi-Fi-802-11n-USB-Adapter-and-Dongle/45002/bn_351162/i.html

Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN722N-Wireless-Adapter-External/dp/B002SZEOLG

eh that's what happens when I try to do shit with my phone

https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-2-4HGz-RP-SMA-Screw--Antenna/dp/B003ZWPRUI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465983658&sr=8-1&keywords=alfa+panel

AMP makes a very noticeable difference but I don't think it's really putting a full 2W. It's cheap though so worth it IMO. Range depends entirely on location, elevation, weather, and what you are "shooting into". Starbucks into an office building is going to have a lot shittier range than say the top of a parking garrage down into a park.

This is basically my "what a hacker might use" set up. The panel, amp, and a NHA and NHR alfa worked great for long range but had some issues with missing packets in Kali. I found the best collection was using airpap cards in Windows wireshark and running attacks via the alfa set up in a Kali Vm.

Also needless to say the airpcap nx card with the 2 external antennas was king but it's a freaking $700 wifi card so it better be.

https://www.cacetech.com/documents/AirPcap%20Nx%20Datasheet.pdf

If you can get 3-4 airpcap classic cards off ebay for cheap (I found 3 for $200) each one can cover 20 mhz of spectrum and you can link them in aggregate with the airpcap control panel. This makes it highly effective for a leave behind collection device against a router that self adjusts. Price might put it out of the range of a regular hacker and more into the industrial espionage price range. You may be able to find an NX for cheap on ebay it seems like cace is getting out of the market with the whole airpcap line so they are getting kinda rare.

edit

also don't forget the noble cantenna. Looks shady as fuck but it's good if you're on a college student budget. You can usually get them just as good as an alfa panel antenna, they just look like a big sign that says "i am up to no good". Make sure if you are using an alfa with an RP SMA connector to build it out of an RP sma and not a regular SMA. Ie fit the pieces together and make sure they're the right kind before you start doing anything.

http://www.turnpoint.net/wireless/cantennahowto.html

edit edit

also check this little guy out. I found him out after I finished my 802.11 stuff but i like it a little better than the alfa cards. Doesn't come with a super fancy antenna when you buy it but it's a lot cheaper and just as good once you put a panel or cantenna on it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002SZEOLG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Absolutely. They sell wifi usb adapters and such if you don't have a built in wifi on the motherboard. I'm assuming you have wifi provided some where.

An example: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-N150-Wireless-Adapter-TL-WN722N/dp/B002SZEOLG

*Edit: example added.

I have been using this USB Wi-Fi adapter without any problems since the past couple months. Super cheap and easy to set up, works perfectly.

Alfa cards are great for most things you need to do for any kind of wireless hacking. However, not too long ago I ran into a few issues where mine wasn't compatible with some tools I was trying to use. I got this and it worked for me. You just need to do some research and make sure whatever you get is compatible for what you will be doing with it.

Buy a wifi adapter, they're like $15.

You can download the last version of the linux-firmware package from Debian Sid repository and install it. If it doesn't work there is ndispwrapper but it's way more simple to buy a 15$ working USB adapter like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002SZEOLG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494029810&sr=8-1&pi=SL75_QL70&keywords=722n

I like this TP-Link one. It has an external antenna, and is one of few that has free firmware in Linux so it works out-of-the-box.

[Bare-bones wifi adapter] (https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY/)

Low end gaming mouse

I can personally vouch that the following peripherals work, but certainly make no guarantees that they are the best options or prices etc. If you are feeling really ambitious you can browse the list of verified peripherals and shop around.

• Logitech K400 wireless keyboard/mouse combo
  
• Edimax USB wifi dongle
  
• Plugable 7-port USB hub (this does not back-power the Pi as far as I know)
  
• The Pi is cable of providing audio/video out either through the HDMI port, or through the yellow RCA port (video) and the 3.5mm stereo jack (audio). If you're already using an HDMI cable, you do not need to worry about the latter two.
  
• Updating the OS: open a terminal and type:
  
  
  sudo apt-get update
  
  sudo apt-get upgrade
  
  and that should update everything.

These are cheap and come highly recommended for basic network access:

http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-Adapter-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY

get an adpater

$42.93 Raspberry Pi

+ $5.79 HDMI cable

+ $10.77 WiFi Adapter

+ $13.59 Case

+ $5.90 USB Wall Charger

+ $8.95 Memory Card 8 GB

+ $17.94 Wireless Keyboard

======================================
$105.87

... and now you can begin to customize it

They also want to make the device available to developing countries, so it's not that unlikely that ethernet won't be available.

also, you might not want ethernet if you've got one of these lying around

The one alternative that comes to mind would be to buy and use a usb wifi adapter, something like this. Then disable the built in wifi adapter.

Alternatively, depending on the accessibility, remove the internal wifi and install a different one, IF the part is the specific issue(and not say, the connection of the part), hp should be able to tell you more.

for an internal wifi that is reported to work with that pc, as per here (provided your pc is the HP ENVY touchsmart 15), would be to get this part(Intel® Dual Band Wireless-AC 7260). Note there is a revised and non revised version, am not sure which of the two would work, if not both. That I leave to you.

This looks pretty close to what you're asking for: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Universal-Short-20cm-Right-Angle-90-Degree-Micro-B-USB-Data-Charging-Cable-/321245338289

20cm is pretty short, but you'll still have a little bit of slack to deal with. Zip ties?


Although, really, your wifi adapter sounds way too big. Why not replace it? http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-Adapter-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1408500091&sr=8-2-fkmr1&keywords=wifi+adapter+enermax

Aesthetically that will look nicer, and it's not a lot more money than a quality USB cable.

That's usually due to the drivers being proprietary and abandoned. You would be better served spending 10 bucks on a kernel native adapter.

https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY

It will probably be awhile before im done, just something i play with ever now and then. However Google is your friend. NESpi is a pretty common build. Also I'm an amateur when it comes to soldering lol

My final goal is to have it so it you can insert a nes cartridge with a usb in it and it will read games from this. Also working on getting an old laptop fan to run when it reaches certain temps to help cool it down.

I also tore apart a powered usb hub to power the pi and connect controllers. However I would find one better than mine. Get something with high voltage/amperage. I currently have to power the pi separately instead of through the hub.

Some links for you:



Intro:

https://github.com/retropie/retropie-setup/wiki/First-Installation


Switch I use to make so the NES power button works.

https://mausberry-circuits.myshopify.com/collections/frontpage/products/shutdown-circuit-use-your-own-switch


Controllers
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N48L71I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0QcmzbVPP292R

Wi-Fi
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WUcmzbESCH58S

Then just any short usb and HDMI extensions.

Hope this helps!

https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1488320683&sr=8-1&keywords=edimax+wifi+adapter

https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-BTD-300-Bluetooth-Energy-adapter/dp/B005Z5HT2M/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1488320707&sr=8-6&keywords=kinivo+bluetooth

Super expensive.

If you run tiger on it, there's one of those tiny wifi dongles that has drivers that will work. I've used it on this and the G4 server.
Only problem is the slow USB ports.

This is it

You could always use Powerline adapters instead. Overall, though, you don't need fast internet to be competitive, you do need low ping. Wifi might bring up your ping somewhat, but probably not that big of a deal.

Use a powerline Ethernet adapter, then. Those things rock and come in a ton of different varieties. They are on the expensive side(for a really good one), but are way cheaper/easier than running cat 5 through the walls.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LcAJDbAW9PJ7W

Amazon link for a basic 600mbs version.

Like u/TheDavld said, most likely you are playing at 1080p unless you have the ps4 pro. 4k@30 fps or 1080p@60. Best case framrates, I would go for 1080p@60 fps every time. Given that you might not care for having 60fps vs 30fps. There is a solution for better network connectivity and the 4k screen. I have a set of these. Faster and better connection than WiFi but not as good as Ethernet. Good middle ground. I have these as a quick hookup around the house that I do not plan to make permanent/run Cat6 too.

Run a really long cable. At my in laws house they feed ethernet through the air return registers.
Unless we are talking 100 feet or more then you wouldn't see any noticeable signal degradation.

You could also try a powerline adapter. I have one for my rig and haven't had issues though milage can vary with them.

Just because you aren't noticing lag doesn't mean you aren't lagging from your opponents perspective. Getting set up on LAN is really only polite.

Since your router is in another room, something like this will be helpful. Just pair it with a proper LAN Adapter and you're good to go!

Question: Are you using WiFi for your PS4?

I noticed with the PS4 that there are some bizarre DNS checks going on. It's not just Amazon that has the problem - it was basically everything. A friend recommended a powerline adapter and I haven't looked back. I liked it so much I setup every major internet device to these.

If you have access to the router/modem, get some powerline adapters. They're better than wifi.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=psdc_1194444_t1_B017X8BK5A

There are a few things you could do. You could get a wireless bridge to convert the wifi back to an ethernet connection. If your house is relatively new you could attempt powerline networking. This would allow you to send an ethernet signal over your home's power grid to an outlet in your room.

Perhaps there is a way to turn your laptop into a wireless bridge, but I'm not aware of one, especially on Windows. I have heard of people doing such things with a raspberry pi however.

What are you looking to do with an online PS2?

>that’s not an option. my router box is downstairs and my xbox is upstairs. there’s no way i could connect it

heh.
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-ethernet-Adapter-TL-PA4010KIT/dp/B00AWRUICG?keywords=tp+powerline+ada%5Bter&qid=1540088346&sr=8-1-fkmr0&ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1

Try both. Never hurts to find out but we first need to start where all the magic happens and that is where your PS4 is at.

Guaranteed it's your wifi causing your issues not your connection. Give these a shot if you can convince your parents. They are cheap and reliable and offer superior speeds and latency compared to wireless. TP-LINK TL-PA4010KIT AV500 Nano Powerline Adapter Starter Kit, up to 500Mbps https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_yWDoub10VHJNY

Connect one to an outlet (not a power strip) by the router/modem and one to an outlet by the PS4 and the connect the Ethernet cables and you have yourself a wired connection that is only about 5-10ms latency over a standard Ethernet connection. And the bonus is it uses your existing power infrastructure to send the information instead of cables all over the place.

What WIFi Adapter did you buy, and what model phone do you have? If you bought an 802.11b/g/n adapter and your phone and router both have 802.11ac, then you'll notice a huge performance difference.

Also, you might want to look into getting a powerline adapter instead.

You might want to try a powerline adapter. It basically allows you to send network traffic from one normal power plug to another in your house. I've used one in the past, and it seemed pretty reliable... definitely better than the wifi you're using now, and they're not too expensive (about $40).

Example:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-ethernet-Adapter-TL-PA4010KIT/dp/B00AWRUICG/

So you'd connect like this:

Router ->

Powerline #1 (which is plugged directly into the wall near your router) ->

Powerline #2 (which is plugged directly into the wall near your xbox) ->

Xbox

I had the same problem, then I bought some of these and it has worked awesome. http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PA4010KIT-Powerline-Adapter-Starter/dp/B00AWRUICG/

I actually prefer this TP-Link AV600 Nano Powerline ethernet Adapter Starter Kit, Powerline speeds up to 600Mbps (TL-PA4010KIT)

As others have said running standard 5e or 6 will work just fine.

I'd like to throw out a couple other options that I haven't seen covered yet.

I've used something like these PowerLine Ethernet adapters at my parent's house and even with older wiring it still worked out very well: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-Adapter-Starter-TL-PA4010KIT/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1499982359&sr=8-2&keywords=powerline+ethernet

And another option would be to get a wireless system that is built to handle a bit more. Ubiquiti has a great range of wireless access points that are built to handle the load. You would install multiple access points and then turn down the transmission power of the radios. Doing this will help the devices split up and connect to the access point they are closest to. At the same time those devices are rated to handle something like 30 clients.

You may get some more range out of an AC router, so that could be a small bonus.

You might also check on power line ethernet adapters, as they are cheaper than MoCa (This is not a product recommendation, but something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=psdc_1194444_t3_B008C1JC4O).

Before I bought my house, I used a set in an old apartment building. Worked well for me. I was able to get 120mbps down using it. It should be used as a last resort, but I PERSONALLY had great results.

I used this: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-ethernet-Adapter-TL-PA4010KIT/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1537210426&sr=8-3&keywords=tp+link+powerline+adapter&dpID=41SIVgLUmaL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Interesting... Is this sort of like a wifi extender but seems much better? What makes this better/how much better is this compared to the ASUS/TP Link PCIe wifi cards?

Is this what you're talking about? https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-Adapter-Starter-TL-PA4010KIT/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=lp_1194444_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1491234889&sr=1-1

The link works fine, thanks!

Also on Amazon India for 4.4k http://www.amazon.in/TP-Link-TL-PA4010KIT-Powerline-Adapter-Starter/dp/B00AWRUICG/

Powerline networking was made for this type of application. Here's a starter kit on Amazon for cheap. It allows you to use the electrical lines in your walls to transmit data at decent speeds vs having to run cat 5/6 through your walls or having spotty wifi.

Powerline adapters are perfect for what you're looking for. Do not plug them into a surge protector, they get weird. You can get either ones with outlet passthrough or without. I'd also suggest getting these to get that plug off the wall a bit.

Or a Powerline Adapter for considerably less effort. Two minutes to setup feels just like normal Ethernet.

Boosters don't work.

Get a Powerline Adapter

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PA4010KIT-Powerline-Adapter-Starter/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421029082&sr=8-1&keywords=powerline+adapter

Well, one thing you can do is have a second router as a client bridge (Like a cheap WRT54G) and then have a NIC on the WRT54G feeding into the NAS. Or you can use powerline networking to get 100Mbps through electrical, allowing for a Router to NAS link without clogging up your Wifi. I strongly advise that you use Powerline networking if you have multiple devices that use wifi already.

Of course, the best solution is some ethernet, but since you said that's not possible, go for the powerline solution.

Here's a nice powerline networking solution:
http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PA4010KIT-Powerline-Adapter-Starter/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=lp_1194444_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1382895299&sr=1-2


Cheers ! And happy FreeNas-ing !

3 words: Powerline. Ethernet. Networking.

TP-LINK AV500 Nano Powerline Adapter Starter Kit, up to 500Mbps (TL-PA4010KIT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_45uiybWP9AMYD

Also, frequently check out r/buildapcsales for sweet deals

Other than that, the only thing I might change is the 1050 to an Rx 470 as that maxes almost everything at 1080p

Third option https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AV600-Powerline-Ethernet-Adapter/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=sxin_2_ac_m_pm?ac_md=2-0-VW5kZXIgJDEwMA%3D%3D-ac_d_pm&keywords=powerline+ethernet+adapter&pd_rd_i=B00AWRUICG&pd_rd_r=15ecc452-d353-452b-ad79-db8d012dc30d&pd_rd_w=pI7Eu&pd_rd_wg=iA17L&pf_rd_p=808372f4-ce06-4458-88ef-16b605aa053a&pf_rd_r=HWGMJXZF91G1FGDNW6D6&psc=1&qid=1570103016&sprefix=powerline+eth

TP-LINK TL-PA4010KIT - TP-Link TL-PA4010KIT 500Mbps Powerline Homeplug Nano Adapter with 10/100M Ethernet - Twin Pack https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_017HzbABFB3NW

Something like this will work OP. You plug one next to the router with an ethernet and the otherone next to your computer so the internet travels with your house electricity. It worked wonderfull for me

I bought a powerline adapter for my house at college because my roommate watches Netflix nonstop which causes latency issues when gaming. It should be really easy to setup and it fixed my latency. Just plug into the wall next to your router with ethernet cable going in and then plug the other one in next to your computer and connect to the computer with another ethernet cable.

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PA4010KIT-Powerline-Adapter-Starter/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=pd_sim_147_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=31IYBNuPwFL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=001NFQSQXCB5J4XYZ6V1

You should go wired if possible. If running an Ethernet cable from your router to your PC isn't an option consider using a "Powerline Adapter" it will allow you to send your connection through the existing power-lines in your house.

The connection isn't as fast as a normal Ethernet one and can be subject to some interference but it is still much more reliable than WIFI.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-Adapter-Starter-TL-PA4010KIT/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520705471&sr=8-1&keywords=ethernet+through+power+outlet

Power line adapters and a switch. You would not have to run any cables through your house. The power line adapter uses your existing electrical wiring to transfer data. You then use a switch to plug all your devices into.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-Adapter-Starter-TL-PA4010KIT/dp/B00AWRUICG

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000FNFSPY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1482095330&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=tp+link+switch&dpPl=1&dpID=41236oqiHrL&ref=plSrch

Edit spelling

I'm not discrediting your connection, but unless it's literally fibre internet hitting near gigabit speeds, it'll still have an impact with wifi vs ethernet. You can use a powerline adapter, plugged in from the mains AC, to sync your computer and router despite distance. This gives you far less of the minor packet loss you could be experiencing.

If you're interested in a powerline adapter, check this. Though really if you get <10 ping in most games, I'm unsure if you need it.

Amazon begs to differ your price assertion: TP-Link AV500 Nano Powerline Adapter Starter Kit, up to 500Mbps (TL-PA4010KIT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_KTqtyb74AWZCC

If you're only needing this for a single device at a distance, consider Power Line Adapters. They're generally pretty reliable as long as they work at all in your house. They're a two-piece system that uses you in-home power wiring to transmit the signal.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Powerline-Adapter-Starter-TL-PA4010KIT/dp/B00AWRUICG

They're simple to setup, but again do NOT work in every case. This will prevent having to wire anything, you'll just need patch cables on each end. One to the router, one to the computer. No super long wires, no cabling, no complex setup. Plug in, push a button, and go.

3.5 mm to RCA. They run like $5 on amazon. Or if you want to go bluetooth then this. https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Bluetooth-Audio-Adapter-Streaming/dp/B00IQBSW28

I know exactly what you're talking about. I don't think there is an easy way to do this. The problem is that Macs automatically change their built-in output to headphone output when a cable is inserted into the headphone jack. I just double checked Apple's Audio MIDI Setup utility, and you can't create an aggregated output device with both the built in speakers and the headphone jack in that application.

BUT what you can do in Audio MIDI Setup is create an aggregated output device between the built in speakers and a bluetooth receiver, so if you picked up a wireless bluetooth receiver you should be able to setup playing audio simultaneously from your Mac and the Rhythm. A cheap bluetooth receiver like this one from Logitech should work: https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Bluetooth-Audio-Adapter-Streaming/dp/B00IQBSW28/

Another option that's a little easier to setup would be to use a program like Rogue Amoeba's Airfoil and a Chromecast Audio. I used this setup myself with my Rhythm for about the past year. Airfoil is a great little program that lets you sync up audio between your computer, Apple's Airplay, Google's Chromcast Audio, Sonos, Bluetooth, etc. It's like the Swiss Army Knife of playing audio from a lot of different sources.

https://www.rogueamoeba.com/airfoil/

https://store.google.com/product/chromecast_audio

Chromecast Audio is also still $15 at a lot of places at the moment due to on going Black Friday/Cyber Monday sales, so it could actually be cheaper than that bluetooth adapter I posted above (though you'd have to spend $30 on the Airfoil program as well to use it with a Mac).

Feel free to let me know if you have any questions about figuring out your situation. I'm not an expert, but I feel as though I went though enough trial and error before settling on my current setup that I might be able to point you in the right direction.

You could get something like this Logitech bluetooth adapter for $25. They work very well and are very affordable.

I have the older model of this:

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Bluetooth-Audio-Adapter-Streaming/dp/B00IQBSW28/ref=dp_ob_title_ce

Had it for at least 5 years and have no complaints.

A Chromecast Audio is a good solution. It sounds better than my Logitech Bluetooth adapter and the range is as good as your WiFi coverage.

The Chromecast is more expensive but has whole house range and sounds better. The Logitech has about a 20 ft range in my house and sounds thin in comparison to the Chromcast.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IQBSW28/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YSN6Ab3ZGBYRJ

Not sure if something like this would work for output. But if it did. Get a RCA splitter to split from the Wii to the TV/Bluetooth box and not have to worry about moving cables. Then just mute the TV and connect to Bluetooth. Like I said, not sure if something like that does output.

I just picked this up and it works well for bluetooth, pretty decent range. There are cheaper ones out there but I don't know that I trust them and their ranges are all over the place and they aren't that much cheaper. I also have logitech's old version of that one from about 5 years ago and it's still going strong in my garage now.

I have this one - http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IQBSW28/

Works fine, good reviews, good range, and hooks up to your stereo via either RCA jacks or a 3.5 mm line. Any ancient stereo can usually accept an RCA jack. The one thing I don't like is that it automatically connects when you're in range, which is fine for some devices but I use it with my phone and don't always want my phone connecting. Still, others may like the auto connect.

Honestly, I was in the same boat. Great memories with Smash and my college roommates. Got online to hang out with them when we have time. As long as you don't take every hit seriously and enjoy it for the game, its alright. I use to get mad at the input lag and buttons not working, but I changed to basically play with my friends online (also get a Lan Adapter and tell your friends to as well) and you will have a lot of fun. You might even find another game you guys like to play as well, for us it's Mario Kart, don't drink and drive.

Amazon Ethernet adapter I picked one of these up for a more stable connection in Splatoon. It's been working great so far.

One of these bois into the usb port on the switch dock: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M77HMU0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_uFQZBbXNHJ30N

I bought this one and it works for my Mi Box. I don't have the S though so I can't say for sure.

I play the GameCube version of Phantasy Star Online regularly, and the GC PSO community widely recommends this adapter for people who play it on a Wii. If you're curious, the Wii requires a particular chipset (ASIX AX88772 or AX88772A), and the adapter also works with my Switch.

Look into power line adapters paired with Ethernet adapter. I'm in a similar situation and this is my solution and it works perfectly. it's an expensive solution but you can use the power line adapter for PC's and other things in the basement. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01929ESG6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_eG39Bb73F41RT
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MYT481C?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

edit: also note this is not an invasive option since you just plug in the power line adapters, then plug one side into your router and one into the Ethernet adapter

I bought this one back in June. It worked straight out of the box on my Switch.

this one will work according to another user, Im sure 90% of USB 2.0 to ethernet adapters will work. but other users have had less success with USB 3.0 adapters. which wont really make a difference unless your connection is over 50mb/s.

Wrong. I ordered this one and it works like a charm.

The online play is alright, but because of the nature of the Wii U's wifi connection, it's nearly impossible to get good netplay without the use of a LAN adapter.
This is the one I use - it's cheap, and it's always been perfect for me: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MYT481C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If you need a guide on how to get one set up, that exists too: http://www.pokkenarena.com/forums/topic/560-your-handy-guide-to-lan-adapters
Once you're all done with that, come to the Discord to get some friendlies, as you're not guaranteed to fight people with good connections on Ranked: discord.gg/pokken
Hope I could help!

It can be inconsistent. I've found moca adapters over coax to be much better. I got the high end ones that can do a full gigabit but that's probably over kill for only gaming so you can go with the slower ones. A long Ethernet cable is probably going to be your cheapest most reliable option.


These are the ones I have:
[Actiontec Bonded MoCA 2.0 Ethernet to Coax Adapter, 2 Pack] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013J7O3X0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_yXxCybMS7Y46V)

Correct information. The DECA's are 100mb devices, under ideal conditions. 4k video on the DirecTV system pulls about 50mb per second. There's no need for them to be faster.

There are faster ones, but since you need more bandwidth, you can't have a satellite signal on the same line.

https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Bonded-Ethernet-Adapter-ECB6200K02/dp/B013J7O3X0/ref=pd_sim_147_5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=1ZBFVTNC0BKZZ019H7BQ

However, these devices can interfere with your cable modem. It's better to use a straight through piece of coax, rather than one that's tied into your coax splitter.

Based on some DSLReports users giving me some advice - it looks like I may have FiOS run ethernet only to the primary router (it's most important that one receive the gigabit service. And use these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013J7O3X0?ref=emc_b_5_t at the existing coaxial drops for the other routers - those are not as important to get the full gigabit.

I have a house with several buildings and the stucco construction (with chicken wire in the walls) screws up most signals.

Of everything I have (wifi, rf, etc) my 4 Lutron Smart Bridge Pros are the best at connecting to devices over distance. It's really impressive.

I do use plug in dimmer to reach to a Serena shade that was having intermittent disconnection issues. You can have one dimmer as an extender per smart bridge.

Another useful trick is positioning the hub more centrally. I don't have ethernet cable in my walls, but I do have coax to around 10 locations. I use MoCA 2.0 adapters to do coax to ethernet throughout the house. I'm not sure what real world speed they top out at, but I can max my fiber (around 600 up and down) over the coax, so I'm happy. I mainly use them as a wired backhaul for my Velop mesh wifi, but I have one in a location just for a Lutron Smart Bridge.

moca is the answer. I was all EoP but needed to get top speed to a second building ~200ft away and these moca adapters worked awesome with easily 500mbps.


Actiontec Bonded MoCA 2.0... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013J7O3X0?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

should just need these bad boys https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Bonded-Ethernet-Adapter-ECB6200K02/dp/B013J7O3X0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1486440573&sr=8-3&keywords=moca and a coax line

If you have coax cable runs for Cable/Satellite TV, MoCa might be an option. I'm unsure what the max speeds are on it, but it should be much more consistent than powerline. If you have TV via the cable company or an OTA antenna setup you'll need a MoCa entry/POE filter (to prevent the signals from leaving the house), and you'll want to use at least MoCa 2.0 to get near 1Gbps speeds. I haven't personally used the adapters, but if you're willing to try it, and have existing coax runs, buying them from a place that has a good return policy would be what I would try. If you have DirecTV, there's also the DECA adapters (don't use these on a cable TV setup, they'll mess with TV/Internet reception because of the frequency/spectrum changes made to make these work on satellite systems.)

Something like these could work out well IMHO. Reviews seem OK, and Amazon has a decent enough return policy. https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Bonded-Ethernet-Adapter-ECB6200K02/dp/B013J7O3X0/

The first one is a DECA adapter. It only works with cable that is either not active or has satellite service. It does not work with cable that has an active TV and/or Internet signal on it. It is also limited to 100 Mbps.

The 2nd one is an old MoCA 1.0 adapter so also limited to 100 Mbps. You should get a 2.0 adapter, they are much faster.

https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Bonded-Ethernet-Adapter-ECB6200K02/dp/B013J7O3X0/

This will be your best bet. You'll take a ethernet cable out from your router/switch into one of these and then coax out to the wall. From there you'll place another near the device(s) you need better coverage with and take the coax from the wall into the other of this device, and then plug the ethernet from the MoCA adaptor into your other device or switch.

https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Bonded-Ethernet-Adapter-ECB6200K02/dp/B013J7O3X0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482101870&sr=8-1&keywords=actiontec+moca

You can do it yourself.

Assuming none of your existing equipment supports MoCA, you can get a two-pack of adapters like one of these:

Edit: Note that MoCA 2.x is newer and faster than MoCA 1.x, but other than that they work the same, and are compatible with each other.

• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013J7O3X0
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019MDRX5A
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008EQ4BQG
  
  If one of the devices already supports MoCA (TiVO, some Verizon modems, etc), you can just get a single adapter instead of the two-pack.
  
  You'll also need to get MoCA-rated splitters for your basement (or wherever the cable lines in your house run to). Either get one with as many outputs as your existing splitter and replace it completely, or get a smaller one and use it to split the signal from your main splitter into the cable for each room where you want to use MoCA. You want something like these, but there are many options with different port counts:
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00558UJTO
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00556LI1E
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M34OZ2S
  
  Finally, you need a Point-of-Entry filter to prevent your MoCA signal from leaking out to your neighbors through your cable connection. You put it on your cable line before your splitter(s) and it blocks the MoCA signal from passing through:
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DC8IEE6
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M4ODQTS
  
  
  Edit: My setup is cabled as follows:
  
  The cable tv / Internet line enters my home in the basement. I have the Point-of-Entry filter screwed onto the cable, and then into a MoCA splitter. Coax cables run from the splitter to various rooms in my house.
  
  In the room with my modem and router, I have a cable from the wall jack to the "coax in" side of a MoCA adapter. I have a short cable from the "tv/stb" side of the MoCA adapter to my modem. There is an ethernet cable from the modem to the WAN port on my router (this gives my router its Internet connection), and then an ethernet cable from a LAN port on the router to the ethernet port on the MoCA adapter (this gives the MoCA network access to the Internet).
  
  In the room with my TV, I have a cable from the wall jack to the "coax in" side of another MoCA adapter. I have don't actually use cable TV service (just Internet), but if I did, I would have a cable from the "tv/stb" side of the MoCA adapter to my TV. There is an ethernet cable from the MoCA adapter to my Roku to provide it with Internet access through the MoCA network.
  
  I actually use this adapter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CZ6WC3A by my TV rather than one of the smaller ones, because it has four ethernet ports instead of one. I bought it before MoCA 2.0 devices were available. If you only have one ethernet port on your adapter but need to connect multiple devices, you can get a small network switch instead. I was just trying to avoid extra boxes next to my TV.

Err..idk what /u/Ryao is selling you, but MoCA isn't that bad, and it certainly doesn't have a higher latency than WIFI!

As long as your FiOS speed is 100/100 or below, you can expect to get your full speed over even the shittiest of Coax cable, it can even generally do 150/150, but Verizon will default to an Ethernet install because it can vary based on your home's condition.

MoCA 1.1 has a PHY rate of about 275mbit (give or take depending on wire condition, length,etc) and you can expect to do about 175mbit over it no problem.

I believe most if not all ONTs are still on 1.1. This will be limiting if you plan on doing transfers over a local network. (I.E. you have a networked storage or something similar).

Rather than running your whole networking coming from the ONT over Coax, I recommend buying a bonded MoCA adapter pack and creating your own, much faster MoCA network.

These do MoCA 2.0, which is a PHY rate of 1.4Gbit, with real world speeds near 1Gbit.

https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Bonded-Ethernet-Adapter-ECB6200K02/dp/B013J7O3X0

You plug one end into your router, then tap it into the coax network, then the other end wherever you want your network extension to end. You can either run it to a single device, or you could add a switch/or second AP at the end location.

You can buy as many as the adapter as you want and put end points in different locations if you want a wired connection in those locations.

The one I linked can do gbit assuming your coax is in decent condition.

This guy here tested this specific model and was able to full 104-108MB/s over his network with them.

https://www.reddit.com/r/HomeNetworking/comments/3iei9m/my_initial_impressions_of_the_actiontec_ecb6000/

If you have a spare ethernet port on your router or the "splitter" you mention (I'm assuming a switch) then all you need is an ethernet cable from the switch/router to the port in the wall that runs to the bedroom, and a second ethernet cable running from the mini to the ethernet port in the bedroom wall.

If you'd rather use a MoCA connection then you'd need to buy a MoCA adapter like one of these, along with a Coax splitter & some coax pigtails, and run an ethernet connection from your switch/router to the MoCA box, and connect the MoCA box to your existing coax using a splitter.

So ethernet will be much less expensive considering you already have a run between the two rooms that you can use. And you don't gain or lose anything by going with ethernet over MoCA. I've been running ethernet between my Romaio (recently upgraded to a Bolt) and a Mini for a few years now.

I've been using a pair of these to get internet to the second floor from my basement and they work wonders. You should also buy a POE Filter to put in where your coax enters the house.


Then you plug one into your router and attatch the coax. If you have a cable box, it has a built in splitter to let you hook that up too. Then you plug coax into the other one in the place where you want internet, and then the ethernet cable into your device.

You don't need all that.

Order this - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013J7O3X0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

One plugs into the switch near/on/in your router and the other end goes on to your remote room. From there you can plug the 2nd adapter onto a switch or an AP or whatever. Wammo blamo.

No new MoCA router required.

I sidegraded from a $450 HD 650 setup with a schitt stack for these since I am going to be travelling more at my new job. These are perfectly fine for gaming especially since windows 10 has a new windows sonic mode. I'd say the sound signature is very similar to a pair of 598's while being mobile.

To get the most out of these headphones, be sure your device supports APTx which will give you decent CD-like quality. You can buy an adapter like this which can turn most devices into an APTx source. Also you can just plug them in but you lose the convenience of wireless.

i haven't had any issues with ping spikes - definitely a huge improvement over wifi. setup is usually just plugging them into a socket and hooking up an ethernet cable to your router/computer

i use this one, mostly because it's for 2 prong sockets: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WP2ZT5N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6HtPCbAGM8MFH

I had Wyze cameras and had 3D printed outdoor housings but the quality wasn't great at night after our last run in.

Went Ubiquiti. Three G3-FLEX cameras (four tonight) and ran some CAT6 with a powerline adapter for the camera you see above. I'm runing the UniFi Video software on an old Mac mini with a 5TB USB HD but I'm strongly considering one of their CloudKey Gen 2+ to dedicate specific hardware for the cameras/network.

The interface is fantastic, the camera quality is fantastic (they also offer a 4K camera though $$$), and security hardened. I like the idea of them being wired to take that busy constant video traffic off of wifi.

Edit: added links

http://store.steampowered.com/streaming/

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Q45EF4/

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007Q45EF4/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1448955529&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX110_SY165&keywords=bluetooth+dongle+windows+10&dpPl=1&dpID=41cwsdCBTpL&ref=plSrch


I have windows 10 and this adapter works perfectly with it. This adapter really has great range too. So comfy on my couch using my ds4 controller wirelessly playing on pc.

We used powerline in our old house just fine, but circuits and appliances caused issues in our current home. I found that a MoCA adapter worked much better for us than the powerlines ever did. Here's an article on powerline vs MoCA if you're interested.

If you can run an ethernet line alongside the coax, that will be your best bet. If you cannot, look at MoCA adapters. They are a bit more expensive, but generally work a whole lot better than powerline does.

See, powerline uses the electrical wires in your home, and depending if they are any decent (most times they are not), or if you have a lot of stuff going through the same breaker, or just usage on the line, the communication between powerline adapters will be shitty.

You cannot tell before hand if they will work (powerline) and just have to try.

 

Having a coax line already run, if you can use that one, you can just have two devices at each end that translate ethernet into coax and back again. This is what MoCA adapters do.

These should do the trick.

If you have a good store where you can return stuff, the you can always try powerlines and see if they work, else return for MoCA...

There are Ethernet over Coax adapters available. There appears to be a MoCA standard which gives you 270mbit over existing coax: http://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Ethernet-Adapter-without-Routers/dp/B008EQ4BQG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414618153&sr=8-1&keywords=MoCA

I had the same problem. I have COAX running throughout my house already and did not want to drill holes and patch drywall so I bought some MOCA adapters and I have been very impressed! I hooked one up to the router and now I have "ethernet" everywhere there is a coax port. Basically all you do is split the coax going into your modem, run one coax to the modem from the splitter and the other coax goes to the moca box . Then you plug an ethernet cable into the router from the moca box. Then you take the other box and take it to wherever you want ethernet and plug the box in, connect the coax to the wall and the ethernet from the box to the device you want to connect.

https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Ethernet-Adapter-without-Routers/dp/B008EQ4BQG/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1501303854&sr=8-9&keywords=actiontec+moca

I don't live in a FiOS area anymore, so I can't actually give you a step-by-step guide. You're going to have to figure out a lot of this on your own.

Here's a brief primer on FiOS MoCA:

MoCA is a system for transmitting IP over coaxial cable. In most FiOS installs, there's actually MoCA running on two different frequencies: First, the WAN-side connection from ONT to the primary (in 99% of installs, only) Actiontec router, which IIRC runs at 1000 MHz. Second, the LAN-side connection from the router to any cable boxes and other MoCA devices, which runs at 1150 MHz, and is bridged to the router's WiFi and LAN ethernet ports. You're going to want to get your second router to listen to this 1150MHz signal, but not to act as a DHCP server.

If you disable the 1000MHz (again, not sure this is correct, but it's labeled as something like WAN Coax) MoCA connection, your secondary Actiontec won't have any way to connect to the ONT directly, which is what you want.

The first problem that comes to mind with this setup is getting the non-WAN Actiontec to run a DHCP client on the LAN side. The easiest way around this is probably to configure it using a static IP address in the same subnet, but outside of the primary router's DHCP range, which I believe you can do pretty easily.

Good luck!

Do you have coax in the rooms? You can use a MoCa bridge to connect them. Works great for my house.

Powerline networking only works if you're on the same circuit in my experience.

I really like over coax. Amazing speed!

Actiontec Ethernet over Coax Adapter Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008EQ4BQG/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_123dvb1JXADND

Im using the TP Link 150Mbps Wireless N Nano USB Adapter (Model No. TL-WN725N)
Link: http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN725N-Wireless-Adapter-Miniature/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395410816&sr=8-1&keywords=tl+wn725n

But I must say I tried OpenElec and Xbian, and I only managed to get it working on OpenElec because it worked 'Out-of-the-Box' :)

You have a couple of options: Internal wireless card, or USB wireless card.

there's tons of different brands and price-points, but they essentially do the same thing. If you want to find more, on Amazon or ebay or whatever search "PCI Wireless card' for the internal, and "USB Wireless card" for the USB one.

Wireless USB dongle?

Something like this -

TP-Link N150 Wireless Nano USB Adapter (TL-WN725N) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jEf6yb1KGKVK5

Try Wireless USB Adapter. Simply plug the device into laptop's USB port. The price of 498 right now at Amazon is over priced. You could get it at cheaper price at offline computer shop

TP-LINK you will NOT find a better adapter.

Mini


Big Boy

As long as you stay away from no-name Chinese stuff it should be fine. I recently bought this TP-Link for $10.

It worked with my settings as soon as I plugged it in, the speed is great, and though my WAP is sitting on my desk, I can connect and get good speed from the WAP in my wife's office completely on the other side of the house.

Bluetooth is Bluetooth. They should work with anything that supports Bluetooth, be it a phone, tablet, laptop or desktop. I've had a few pairs of BT headphones, and they've always "just worked" with all my devices.

If you're using a desktop without built-in Bluetooth, you'll need something like this USB dongle. I don't know how well this particular model works, but it's the #1 seller on Amazon.

This is the one you want. It’s recommended by Microsoft. It’s cheap and works perfectly.

Plugable USB Bluetooth 4.0 Low Energy Micro Adapter (Windows 10, 8.1, 8, 7, Raspberry Pi, Linux Compatible; Classic Bluetooth, and Stereo Headset Compatible) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009ZIILLI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_ioBHAb46MKERV

The plugable dongle works well for me:
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Bluetooth-Adapter-Raspberry-Compatible/dp/B009ZIILLI

Yessir. This is the one I'm using:

Plugable USB Bluetooth 4.0 Low Energy Micro Adapter (Windows 10, 8.1, 8, 7, Raspberry Pi, Linux Compatible; Classic Bluetooth, and Stereo Headset Compatible) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009ZIILLI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_olu-zb9DH6G8DP

And here's how to disable the onboard Bluetooth:

https://discourse.osmc.tv/t/disable-rpi3-internal-bluetooth-device/15760/2

You're adding this line to your /boot/config.txt

dtoverlay=pi3-disable-bt

This was my fear and still is.

For me it was a painless process. Simply bought a 4.0 dongle from Amazon and plugged it into the USB 3.0 slot of my Win10 machine. I didn't even need to manually install a driver as Win10 did that for me. Clicked on the Bluetooth icon in the app tray and paired to the board. I've tried resetting and shutting down my comp multiple times now to see if it would have trouble pairing again and no issues so far.

The 'fn+f#' keys work great too without having to mess with any settings/drivers. ie play/pause works with Spotify, vol +/-, Win Lock etc...

I'll let you know if I come across anything. Did it not work from the beginning?

https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Bluetooth-Adapter-Raspberry-Compatible/dp/B009ZIILLI

Good reviews/ratings/price/documentation

Buy a USB Bluetooth adapter. That's what I did. Something like this. I would keep searching for something cheaper. Maybe ebay?

https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Bluetooth-Adapter-Raspberry-Compatible/dp/B009ZIILLI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498900432&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=bluetooth+adapter&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Onvian-Bluetooth-Receiver-Transfer-Wireless/dp/B01LH6RPBW/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1498900432&sr=8-5&keywords=bluetooth+adapter

Looks like there's a wifi/bluetooth combo available too.
https://www.amazon.com/Fenvi-Wireless-2-4Ghz-300Mbps-5Ghz-867Mbps-Bluetooth/dp/B00Y2DU8T4/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1498900554&sr=8-6&keywords=bluetooth+card+pc

Again, I just did a quick search, did not compare specs, prices, or compatibility.

I'm having trouble with this bluetooth dongle and this wireless keyboard. I basically have repeating numbers, intermittent disconnects and extreme lag, varying in seriousness based on which ports I plug my bluetooth dongle into

Here's my build below, and I'm using this wireless mouse and this monitor. Any thoughts on trouble shooting? Should I return the dongle and keyboard and get something better quality?

EDIT: I should mention that I reinstalled the dongle drivers already, but I am not sure if the keyboard even has drivers.



PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor | $239.99 @ Newegg
Motherboard | Asus SABERTOOTH Z97 MARK2 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $165.99 @ Newegg
Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $79.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $109.99 @ Micro Center
Storage | Seagate 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $119.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card | $349.99 @ B&H
Case | Fractal Design Define R4 w/Window (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case | $99.99 @ NCIX US
Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $69.99 @ NCIX US
Optical Drive | Lite-On iHAS124-14 DVD/CD Writer | $19.99 @ Newegg
Wireless Network Adapter | TP-Link TL-WDN4800 802.11a/b/g/n PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter | $39.99 @ Amazon
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $1280.90
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-10-16 09:01 EDT-0400 |

Network it via Total Commander & its LAN plugin or directly via Bluetooth, if your PC has it? If not a 4.0 Dongle is super cheap.

I use this one on Windows 10 and haven't had any issues with it.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Q45EF4

Yeah, $40 is cool, but why does Sony always make their USB's in this length?

I have a Kinivo BUS that's perfect.

And then my PS Pulse has Sony's USB and it's an eyesore.

*besides, most prebuilt computers and laptops have Bluetooth. You wouldn't even need the USB.

I got this one and it's great

Have you considered MOCA adapters? I only ask because when I mention them most people don't know what I'm talking about. I swear by them and I have been running them for the past 4 years.

I have the Actiontec. I just upgraded to the first link. However now that I've seen the price of the Yitong (third link) and see if there is a drastic difference. I still need one more....

Actiontec MOCA 2.0 (650+Mbps)

Actiontec MOCA 1.1 (270 Mbps)

[Yitong](
https://www.amazon.com/gp/slredirect/picassoRedirect.html/ref=pa_sp_atf_aps_sr_pg1_2?ie=UTF8&adId=A07613361TZG8Q2JZL9GI&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2FYitong-Technology-Ethernet-Adapter-YTMC-51N1-M2%2Fdp%2FB019MDRX5A%2Fref%3Dsr_1_2%3Fie%3DUTF8%26qid%3D1465364169%26sr%3D8-2-spons%26keywords%3DMOCA%2B2.0%26psc%3D1&qualifier=780315&id=7766687652242706253&widgetName=sp_atf)

https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Ethernet-Adapter-without-Routers/dp/B008EQ4BQG

I don't know why more people haven't heard of these, but I've had great success with moca adapters (power over coax). They offer faster speeds, better reliability, and easier setup than Ethernet over powerline adapters.

Anything wired will be faster and more reliable than wireless, but you might not need that if all you're doing is video streaming. If you're doing gaming stuff, you should strongly consider wired.

The general rule for extending your network is:

Ethernet > MoCA > Powerline > Wireless

If you don't want to drill holes, consider running Cat6 through external raceways.

If you don't want to do that, do you have existing coax cabling for cable TV? If so start with MoCA.

If that doesn't work, try Powerline.

MoCA and Powerline have a 50/50 chance of working. There's no way to tell in advance. You buy stuff, test, and return what doesn't work.

If you have unused coax jacks in each room, MoCA is far superior to powerline.

http://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Ethernet-Adapter-without-Routers/dp/B008EQ4BQG

You might also want to look into MoCA adapters. I use a MoCA adapter and get speeds that are practically the exact same as if I was hardwired into my modem with Ethernet. I think MoCA adapters are more stable and get better speeds (through my personal testing). I have been using this set without a single issue for about a year.

When you're talking about MoCa devices would something like this work for injecting Ethernet into the coax cable and then getting it on the other end?

http://smile.amazon.com/Actiontec-Ethernet-Adapter-without-Routers/dp/B008EQ4BQG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416427950&sr=8-1&keywords=MoCa+Adapter

I've tried previous generations of both, and their performance was consistent and reliable. I think I was only getting 300mbps over the older MOCA adapters, but that was reliable and did not fluctuate. The MOCA adapter are designed to coexist with cable signals, and will not interfere with a cable modem. The other cool thing is that if you get more than 2, they will form a mesh network. I've had 4 all connected to the same coax runs connected by a splitter, and they could all see each other with no problems, and each segment could access the others. I would typically have one of these adapters behind a TV with the cable from the wall to the MOCA adapter, and another cable from the MOCA adapter to the cable box (since it passed the signal through). The MOCA adapter only provides one ethernet port though, so if I had multiple devices (roku, xbox, boxee box, etc.) I put in a small switch to connect all the devices and the MOCA adapter.

This is the MOCA adapter that I used at the time.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008EQ4BQG/

I believe Verizon was also using these at FIOS customer installs, so it was quite easy to find those adapters on ebay for pretty cheap. You should also check out the Amazon reviews for those adapters. There's a lot of good information about how people are using them and their experience.

Do you have coax wired in your house already? I highly recommend Ethernet over Coax rather than powerline or wifi for stability. If you need better throughout you might as well run Ethernet.

https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Ethernet-Adapter-without-Routers/dp/B008EQ4BQG

Something like this work?

https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Ethernet-Adapter-without-Routers/dp/B008EQ4BQG

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Gigabit-Ethernet-Unmanaged-Extender/dp/B00AMCKN80

Yes and yes.

There are various MoCA adapters out there pending on how you want to terminate your connections. Adapters that carry both cable tv and Ethernet are going to be more expensive than just an Ethernet adapter.

Some general information on how MoCA works can be found here:

• http://www.mocalliance.org
  
• http://www.actiontec.com/products/14.php
  
• http://www.netgear.com/service-providers/products/in-home-connectivity/moca-bridges/
  
• http://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Ethernet-Adapter-without-Routers/dp/B008EQ4BQG
  

If you can push Ethernet over electrical wires, why not over coax too?

It's not cheap, but it certainly works. The MoCA standard exists for precisely this sort of issue. Media converters exist for almost anything under the sun.

If you have coax everywhere. MoCA is the way to go

Depends what you mean - there are a number of things CoAx can be used from in conjunction with a (set of) Raspberry Pi(s) with the details being country specific

1. Legally watch Free to Air Broadcast TV - Get a DVB-T/T2 or DVB-S/S2 tuner if you're in Europe or an ATSC tuner if you are in North America. Install TV Headend (comes with OSMC) and connect the tuner to your aerial or satellite dish via the Coax and the tuner to your PI (Only Ireland, the UK, and Germany have full free to air presence via Satellite for there main channels AFAIK - most places you'll need an aerial which can receive digital tv broadcasts) - you can now watch and record (with a suitable external hard disk) broadcast TV on all your RPi's using something like OSMC. You can use one tuner to watch all the channels on one multiplex at the same time - in the UK that might be BBC ONE HD on one Pi, BBC TWO HD on a second one, and ITV-1 HD on a third. In Boston USA that could be WGBH-DT1, WGBH-DT2, WGBH-DT3, and WGBH-DT4 at the same time. You can add more tuners to increase flexibility.
   
   
2. Share the video output of one RPi round the house - If you mean watch the output of one RPi on all the TV's in the house via the TV's built in analogue tuner - then an RF Modulator will allow you to take the composite output of the RPi and modulate it onto an analogue TV frequency. If you were in the UK Something like the TRIAX TRI-LINK Kit coupled with a TVLink at the remote end and an IR receiver at the main PI would allow you to do this. You can also get DVB-T Modulators with built in HDMI inputs for better quality. However the cost of these and the low costs of RPi's means it's just cheaper to get multiple RPi's.
   
   
3. Use the Coax as network cable - In the US MOCA adapters (e.g. https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Ethernet-Adapter-without-Routers/dp/B008EQ4BQG ) allow you to use your existing coax cable as a substitute for running Ethernet cables - however they are expensive, if possible you just want to run some Ethernet cabling.
   
   However when it comes to Value for Money 2 and 3 are pretty much a waste - WiFi and Ethernet are less expensive alternatives which should work just as well or much better. 1, depending what channels you can receive FTA via your aerial/satellite dish may well be a sound investment. Unless you have a large number of rooms where you always want to watch the same programme as on the main set don't bother with 2. either (the only reason I've done that is I already had the RF Modulator from when we used to share Freesat)
   
   RE: Point 1, A few things to note if you're in Europe:-
   

• Germany, which has historically had extensive FTA broadcasts on satellite, the commercial FTA channels are in standard def only (i.e. HD is only for ARD, ZDF, and the third channels) - while over on DVB-T the only FTA services are those from ARD/ZDF/3rds and use x265 which the PIs struggle with - i.e. in Germany you want to choose satellite and you'll be stuck on SD.
  
• Ireland - You won't be able to use a Sky dish for FTA channels from RTÉ - you'll need a dish aimed at KA-SAT which carries Soarsat - if you can get it Soarview is a better choice as it includes UTV Ireland.
  
• UK - Local TV channels (e.g. Notts TV) and Sony Movie Channel are only FTA on terrestrial, but otherwise Freesat is now the better choice and can use an ex-Sky box coax cable/dish

https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Ethernet-Adapter-without-Routers/dp/B008EQ4BQG

Ethernet in, ethernet out. Coax in between.

Use a MoCA adapter. Instead of network over power lines it's network over coax, which is in most all houses for TV hookups.

I started using http://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Ethernet-Adapter-without-Routers/dp/B008EQ4BQG earlier this year and it's great, I get consistent 90Mbps throughput.

It can coexist with your cable TV and if you have FIOS you actually only need one adapter as FIOS modem/router uses MoCA so one adapter can be used to connect to the modem in another room.

Usually no. Either run an ethernet cable, use a pair of MoCA adapters to run ethernet over your cable wiring, or Powerline adapters to run it over your power wiring, or use WiFi..

you could use powerline, or [MocA] (http://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Ethernet-Adapter-without-Routers/dp/B008EQ4BQG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427134920&sr=8-1&keywords=moca) attached to an inexpensive router

I have tried both set ups, and by far the moca/second router combo helped much more, but I am in an older house so it could be a problem with my circuits/ the fact that I'm on a sub panel.

Good to know and thanks for the reply. I actually just found a nice workaround for this problem, should it be something that I actually face. Apparently, I can buy a device like [this] (http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PA4010KIT-Powerline-Adapter-Starter/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1384965413&sr=8-2&keywords=powerline+adapter) or like [this] (http://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Ethernet-Adapter-Service-ECB2500CK01/dp/B008EQ4BQG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1384968257&sr=8-1&keywords=moca+bridge). I've just read all these complaints about how WiFi isn't good on the PS4 because apparently it only uses the 2.4GHz N network, which I guess is overloaded for a lot of people because it's old and everyone in a neighborhood uses it now.

TP-Link | N150 USB wireless WiFi network Adapter for PC with SoftAP Mode - Nano Size, Compatible with Windows XP/7/8/8.1/10 - Mac OS 10.6~10.13 - Linux Kernal 2.6.18~4.4.3 (TL-WN725N) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cdckDbFYAMH4V

Here's the approved Wi-Fi adapter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008IFXQFU And the Inateck OTG hub: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00OCBXIY8

Not the biggest and the baddest, but I always have one or two of these on hand.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-wireless-network-Adapter-SoftAP/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2LZSS68P0B5JA&keywords=usb+wireless+adapter&qid=1565881705&s=gateway&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&sprefix=usb+wireless+%2Caps%2C211&sr=8-3

I changed the parts around a bit. I searched around Newegg a bit more and was able to find a few deals that seemed better. I also should have stated the price has to be lower than $735 before rebates.



Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-4670 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor | $204.99 @ Newegg
Motherboard | MSI H81M-P33 LGA 1150 Intel H81 Motherboard | $48.99 @ Newegg
Memory | ADATA XPG V2 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory | $68.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Hitachi Ultrastar 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $52.00 @ Amazon
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 760 2GB Video Card | $249.99 @ Amazon
Case | Rosewill FB-04 Dual Fans ATX Mid Tower Computer Case | $29.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Corsair CX 500W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $59.99 @ Newegg
Wireless Network Adapter | TP-LINK TL-WN725N Wireless N Nano USB Adapter 150Mbps | $8.88 @ Amazon
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available. | $725.22



I believe this is the build he will go with unless there is a problem present in it. Thanks for the help.

CPU: Great choice.

CPU Cooler: You don't need it unless you OC.

Motherboard: perfect. If you want cheaper option, /u/m0ronsoldier recommended a motherobaord for cheaper price:

>AsRock B350 Pro4 @ Rs.7180 vs. ASUS Rog Strix B350 @ Rs.9900. No major difference other than very slightly less OC'ing capability

RAM: If this model is on QVL. It is fine.

VC: Great choice. 1050 TI is very good budget card. You can play many titles on this little beast. I would sugest to think carefully before buying this card. Since you said you might upgrade, but you are not sure if you will, it is better to buy 1060. think this: you spend 12K for 1050 TI. You sell it for 8K. You buy 1060 6GB for 24K. Total money spent: 12,000 + 24,000 - 8,000 = 28K. If you just buy 1060 6GB for now, you save those extra 4K. Are you getting my point? However, it is also a good decision to buy 1050 TI and see if you will really be needing 1060 or higher-end GC.

SSD: Hmmm...Any particular reason? Besides faster loading times, faster boot, faster installation, responsiveness, there is really no need for an SSD. That said, hard disk are not that bad. I say, drop this SSD because they are costly right now and you can upgrade it anytime later. With win 10 fast startup, your PC will boot up and shut down in seconds even on HDD. If you really need an SSD, go for SATA. M.2 also gets hot faster and needs proper cooling. I would highly recommend you either drop this SSD or go for an 250GB SSD. I am learning blender, a 3D graphics software, and even I don't need a 500GB SSD. I suggest you re-invest this money on 1060 6GB. 1060 is almost 50-60% faster than 1050 Ti. You will really benefit from this VC than an SSD.

UPS: Circle UPS...Hmmm...I know they make crappy PSUs, but UPS? I am not sure. Go for APC or something better. UPS is also something I highly recommend going for.

PSU: Let us come to the main topic. 450W will do the job fine. It is not a wise decision to go for 450W if you will upgrade your components in the future. The bare minimum I recommend is 550W. This lasts longer, and have enough headroom. I say this because a PSU is something you don't really replace in a year or two. PSU is something that should last longer than your CPU and other components. Cheaping out is never a good option. Sometimes they last for longer than 7-10 years. Haha!

Go for TX650M

or

S12G


These two are very good units and better than the CX450M. Now let us again do the basic math. You buy 430W PSU for 3.6K. two years later you find that 430W is not enough for you 1070, you buy a 6.5K unit. Total money spent: 10.1K Now if you had gone for the 6.5K PSU initially, you would have saved yourself 3.5K.

Now I am not saying 430W is not enough for 1060. It is enough. But you are better off with a 550W unit. You can upgrade till 1070 on a 550W model. It will also be more efficient and will stay rather cool and there is also the ease of mind.

Wifi: there is a USB adapter that goes on selling for about 350 or 500. You can check reviews :) Completely your choice.

I've used something like this. It's tiny and I never notice it. The better option is to just connect with an Ethernet cord of course. Faster and less ping.

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN725N-Wireless-Adapter-Miniature/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1397974418&sr=1-2&keywords=usb+wireless+adapter

Is there a real tangible difference between the small usb wifi adapter's such as this:http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN725N-Wireless-Adapter-150Mbps/dp/B008IFXQFU?ie=UTF8&keywords=usb%20wifi%20adapter&qid=1462067747&ref_=sr_1_5&s=pc&sr=1-5 compared to a bigger, full-size one like:http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Archer-T4U-Wireless-Adapter/dp/B00JBJ6VG8?ie=UTF8&keywords=tp%20link%20usb%20wifi&qid=1462067879&ref_=sr_1_5&sr=8-5

The distance between where this PC would be and the router is fairly small, there is only one wall between them.

Is it a desktop? You'll probably need a wireless adapter of some kind, this is probably the easiest way to get wireless.

For audio download [this driver](http://www.realtek.com/downloads/downloadsCheck.aspx?Langid=1&PNid=24&PFid=24&Level=4&Conn=3&DownTypeID=3&GetDown=false#High Definition Audio Codecs) and see if it works.

https://github.com/neurobin/MT7630E

Looks like that's all there is to support that bit of hardware. Which, looks like it's a hack to run the device via firmware stripped out of the windows driver. So surely it can't really be legally distributed... But someone has put the bins on github anyway. That the sort of thing distributions just won't risk, for reasons varying from ethics to just not wanting to be sued into oblivion.

Honestly, I wouldn't put a lot of effort into getting this working. I'd probably put a pin in using linux until I got a different notebook, whenever that would be. Sometimes hardware support is just bad.

Or you could try something like this: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-WN725N-wireless-network-Adapter/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=usb+wifi&qid=1562035848&s=gateway&sr=8-5

Doesn't seem too horribly obtrusive. I'm sure the range will be pretty bad, cause you can't fit much of an antenna in that little dongle. Keep in mind that only the cheapest one, the single band "150Mb" (like you'll ever manage that on it), is compatible.

My first recommendation would be to if possible set up an Ethernet connection. That will most likely be your absolute best bet. However, if that is not possible at this time, getting a USB WiFi adapter (can be purchased locally at most tech stores or you can get something like this on Amazon, depending on your ISP's speeds) should serve you well for now.

Not OP but Is there any difference between using this card and just using say a USB adapter like this

I have this one it does the job very well: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-N150-Wireless-Adapter-TL-WN725N/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495218324&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=tp+linkusb+wi+fi

> You just need a wifi adapter, either internal PCIE, or external USB.

You can't magically make a wired connection wireless, you need to add hardware. A wireless adapter in this case.

Like this - https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-PCI-Express-Adapter-TL-WN881ND/dp/B0079XWMEI

or this - https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-N150-Wireless-Adapter-TL-WN725N/dp/B008IFXQFU

Not an answer but you know that you can get a USB WiFi dongle for your laptop for $10 right? Something to consider

TP-Link TL-WN725N N150 USB wireless WiFi network Adapter for pc with SoftAP Mode - Nano Size, Compatible with Windows XP/7/8/8.1/10 - Mac OS 10.6~10.11 - Linux Kernal 2.6~3.16 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_KduPBbB7295ZK

So buying and using a wifi USB Adapter, like this, will solve the problem?

Do you need a new router? If there's a PC of any kind in your house you should be able to just buy a £5 wireless USB dongle and have it run as a hotspot sharing that PC's connection.

There are several websites out there that deal specifically with Linux hardware like ThinkPenguin but you would probably have luck just searching "Linux Nano Wifi Dongle" in something like Amazon or AliExpress. I have had luck with TP Link Dongles

Eh, this tip, especially for the samba server would have been good.
I was a bit on a budget, but needed wifi (for pi2 location, far from router, on top of a furniture), so I purchased a TP-LINK TL-WN725N Wireless Adapter 150Mbps.
It should reach the effective ~20MB/s.
Thanks for the tip tho, I may buy it when I'll switch the 64GB USB Stick for a proper HDD.

In my experience, TP-Link TL-WN725N 150Mbps Wireless N Nano USB Adapter works out of the box for Linux. I have the same specs:

broadcom bcm43142 chipset and Ubuntu 16.04
Here is the link

Ten bucks. This is all you need. Not necessary to get one that isn’t usb.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-wAWCbGEXKCBB

Or if you still have the other one you tried....what was the problem??

Non-mobile: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008IFXQFU/ref=mp_s_a_1_10?qid=1426709490&sr=8-10&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=tp+link+300+usb

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

One of my favorites

Be right back with amazon link edit: something under $10 for when I don't have internet after my move.

Thanks for the contest <3

Thanks! I'm gonna set it up. The same adapter is on Amazon, too.

Others have stated that TP-Link is a good bet, personnally i have 5 or 6 of these on my various machines at home, works out of the box every time (tested on Debian, Ubuntu, Arch, Raspbian).

Thank you very much for helping me improve my chances!

• Model: Raspberry Pi 3 B+
  
• OS: Raspbian Stretch
  
• VPN Software: TOR
  
• USB Network Interface: TP-Link TL-WN725N
  
• USB Network Interface Firmware: Realtek RTL8188EUS 802.11n Wireless Network Adapter (I think, according to lsusb results)
  
  So do you think I just need to run a command to restart the USB port? Why doesn't it just do that on startup?
  
  ​

The adapters I mention in the video are the ones I personally use. The OTG adapter is not the best choice but it's worked for me so far. The wifi adapter has been used by a few of the members at Hakchi Resources and is verified to work.

OTG Adapter

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LTHBCNM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wifi Adapter

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008IFXQFU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hey frustration can get the best of anyone. I put my lights on a dimmer as I found my tracking works best when I dial the brightness back maybe 20%. And don't get me started on the BT usb dongle, I was ready to throw the pc out the window when trying to show off my Odyssey at a family member's home. Had good results with this BT adapter. Also, switch all wireless devices to 5GHz / turn off 2.4 GHz wireless on your router if you can at all help it. Once I got all these environmental variables dialed in, tracking stopped dropping off, so it's really worth the time getting everything right. Good luck!

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Plugable-Bluetooth-Adapter-Raspberry-Compatible/dp/B009ZIILLI/

I have one of these, works fine on every PC I've used it on (with every DS4+DS3 I've used too) and range and latency have never been an issue.

For any of you Bluetooth pioneers:

I have a pair of B&O H7's that I purchased specifically so that I can use them while moving about my office while having audio/video streaming from my desktop computer. My problem is that they are at a noticeably lower volume while connected via Bluetooth to my computer, than they are when connected to my iPhone. Volume works great when connected via Bluetooth to phone, so I've concluded that it's a transmitter/computer issue. I have tried a simple USB Bluetooth transmitter, a more expensive USB Bluetooth transmitter, as well as an externally powered 3.5MM transmitter connected via an amp, and they all yield the same volume issues. I have also turned the volume all the way up on the headphones using the built-in controls.

Just curious if anyone has experienced similar, or has a recommendation for a transmitter setup that has better volume output? I just find it so weird that the issue doesn't exist when connected to my phone, that I'm positive there is SOME way to get it fixed with my computer.

Thanks!

Absolutely, I watch HD content on the Pi all the time. The only video-related annoyance you might come across is watching MPEG video/DVD rips as the unit doesn't ship with the license MPEG videos (as a cost saving measure, not because the video chip can't handle it). The license costs like $2 and you can get it from the Raspberry Pi foundation (or just use a crack tool to generate a license).

As for bluetooth... the Pi handles bluetooth fine with a bluetooth adapter (I use this one). I've never attempted to set up the bluetooth receiver while running Raspbmc, however, so you might want to look into that first.

For input, after the initial setup, I use some logitech universal remotes paired with this HP IR receiver (it's well built and works well with just about everything).

If you're not running a mini itx system, then I would definitely get a PCIE adapter. I've had no luck with USB adapters. I bought the highest rated one on amazon, but get random moments where the controller isnt responsive and it just takes the last input.

Probably something like this would work, but it's a bit pricey as it's wifi+bt:

https://smile.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GC-WB867D-I-Bluetooth-Adapter-Computer/dp/B00HF8K0O6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1474506324&sr=8-2&keywords=pcie+bluetooth+adapter

On the other hand, DO NOT BUY THESE PRODUCTS:

https://smile.amazon.com/Adapter-Bluetooth-150Mbps-Compatible-Classic/dp/B01F3WJOPG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474506240&sr=8-1&keywords=usb+bluetooth+adapter+aukey

https://smile.amazon.com/Plugable-Bluetooth-Adapter-Raspberry-Compatible/dp/B009ZIILLI/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1474506214&sr=1-4&keywords=usb+bluetooth+adapter

It could be your bluetooth dongle causing issues. Microsoft recommends this one, I use it myself: https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Bluetooth-Adapter-Raspberry-Compatible/dp/B009ZIILLI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1523292852&sr=8-1&keywords=pluggable+usb+bluetooth+4.0

I used this one. It worked pretty well.

I now use a laptop at work that has BT built in so I don’t need it but still have it around just in case.

Same here! No explanation, just working perfectly a couple of months ago.

I wanted to report in that the Bluetooth dongle + USB extension cord finally got everything working! Oh my word. This was such an annoying experience but now I'm kicking myself for not trying this simple solution sooner!

I messed around in the home portal and No Man's Sky for a bit (didn't have enough time to play with it for longer) and I experienced no issues whatsoever. Wow. I forgot how responsive VR used to be!!

So maybe give that a shot. I can't believe it's working again. I'll link the exact models I purchased here in an edit.

USB Extension Cable

Bluetooth Dongle

I should also add, when I did a clean install, I was able to select the option to keep my personal files and it still removed the 15-5 issue.

Yeah, it's probably the mobo BT, I'd advise you getting a bluetooth adapter. According to Microsoft, this one should work. If the issue persists then it's probably something wrong with controllers themselves.

Please note that all I said might be a load of bull, as all of the info above comes from (very) frequent visits to basically any forum and website VR related.

Currently I am looking at this Bluetooth dongle: https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Bluetooth-Adapter-Raspberry-Compatible/dp/B009ZIILLI/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1498333653&sr=8-7&keywords=bluetooth

It specifically said W10 anniversary edition update and above so I got worried.

I remember seeing a sale for Xbox One controller many months ago and some people recommended dongles there. Trying to find that post right now.

Edit: In case someone in the future have same question as I did and came here searching for answer, you can't use bluetooth connection if you are using anything other than W10. This is where I got my info from: https://support.xbox.com/en-US/xbox-on-windows/accessories/connect-and-troubleshoot-xbox-one-bluetooth-issues-windows-10

If you want to use wireless functionality, you have to buy microsoft wireless dongle ($23 on amazon as of today). I actually found bluetooth usb in my room and W8.1 was already giving a problem so I just freshly installed W10.

This is there one I have

refurbished HP

The best of the WMR sets (this one was on sale last week for $299 so keep your eyes out)

MS recommends this Bluetooth dongle

Note the first two are basically the same: they all are, except for the Samsung which has better screens and manual ipd adjustment. The new version I linked to also has built in Bluetooth so you wouldn't need to worry about a dongle. Again in that price point I recommend Rift, though it's a tossup between way better screens and way better controllers, there :)

Edit: also, run the windows mr test -- you can find it in the windows store. If it says you're good, games like beat saber should run fine

I did a research about the Explorer (since I noticed that people love their Explorers and they said good things about it) so I got interested in it as well and I think I can reccommend you to **not use the flip up display thing since it is sensitive and it can break easily** (instead use the Flashlight feature that allows you to see the real world using its cameras without taking off the HMD)

​

As for the BT donle I heard good things about this **Plugable BT dongle** :

https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Bluetooth-Adapter-Raspberry-Compatible/dp/B009ZIILLI/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1538640779&sr=1-4&keywords=bluetooth+4.0+dongle

Also some GPUs require the right display port (in order to get 90 fps at max and not only 60 fps) so I am also going to buy the **Plugable Active DisplayPort to HDMI 2.0 Adapter**

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S0C7QO8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

And I found that the best rechargeable AA batteries are these of Eneloop (I am also going to buy the standard charger they have with it) :

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JHKSMJU/ref=sspa_dk_detail_5?pd_rd_i=B01G3SS04A&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=f52e26da-1287-4616-824b-efc564ff75a4&pf_rd_r=KS01C5W02E586HF605CW&pd_rd_wg=E0zRf&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&pd_rd_w=M28DE&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pd_rd_r=2f98b6c6-cc99-11e8-9fea-e722222b4194&th=1

​

These are the stuff I decided to buy for my yet to be purchased Explorer after doing my research.

I picked up the z390 xi code and I like it for the most part. One problem that I have with it though is that the built in bluetooth is terrible. My computer is about 1-2 feet from me and the built in bluetooth isn't able to detect my devices. On the other hand, my $13 plugable bluetooth adapter works perfectly.

Using this one with my HP HMD. Plugable USB Bluetooth

I am using it on an extender to get it up and away from my computer and other wireless devices and have never had tracking issues.

Drevo Calibur and a BT Dongle.

Controllers:
Uninstall bluesoliel, that's not for windows 10 that's for previous versions of windows, clear that out. Windows 10 has native support for bluetooth adapters. Disconnect WMR headset and that bluetooth adapter. Reboot and update windows. Then plug in the bluetooth adapter.

Plug your bluetooth adapter into a USB 2.0 not 3.0 (if there's a 2.0 spot on the front or top of your case that's better, even better is to use a usb 2.0 extension to move it away from anything causing interference).

Headset:
Is that an MSI tomahawk b350 motherboard? I have the b450 and the only USB port that works with windowsmr is the one labeled VR Ready, its the one next to the one you have plugged in, try that one. If i try to use the other usb ports it wont provide enough power. Scratch that looks like you have it plugged into the VR Ready usb port? Unplug your microphone first and try other USB port,s i cant see the other ports and cant find a pic of the cover to check if its like the b450. I believe the port you should try is a Gen1, Type A (if thats a MSI motherboard, based on my experience with my b450 tomahawk, the Gen2 port does not work with windows mr). If you figure out why motherboard you have i can look it up on MSI's website. It could be a loose connection also as you mentioned the headset gets disconnected? Try jiggling it a little and see if it drops off or stays steady. Better yet take a picture of your back panel ports and ill tell you which usb port to try.

Controllers:
Try those first then report back. If none of those works i'd try getting the Microsoft recommended Bluetooth dongle
Whats your graphics card by the way?

...Also this might be the angle of the picture but it looks like your power supply is stuffed full of dust, blow that thing out!

This should be relatively simple (maybe 2 evenings of your time)

Materials (Amazon):

• RPi 3 (wifi built in but could purchase a tp link USB wifi antenna I have used on multiple projects: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002SZEOLG/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1483740041&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=tp+link+wifi+usb&dpPl=1&dpID=31VPoK%2B%2BuUL&ref=plSrch)
  
• power adapter
  
• micro sd card
  
• stripe reader https://www.amazon.com/MagTek-21040145-SureSwipe-Magnetic-Interface/dp/B00EUMXPC4
  
  Total cost: ~$100
  
  Setup (Between Python and Firebase this should be fast):
  
• install raspbian on sd card from another computer
  
• insert in pi to setup raspbian
  
• setup firebase account
  
• mag reader will act as a keyboard (create some type of parser that makes a firebase insertion after each swipe...probably can find but would be easy to code)
  
• maybe 200 lines of code if that and you're done!

+1 for PCI

I game and have never had problems connecting unless it was ISP side (boo comcast). I also stream Netflix and Amazon without any signal issues.

I use [this PCI-E adapter] (http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN881ND-Wireless-Express-Low-profile/dp/B0079XWMEI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1405104552&sr=8-2&keywords=tp-link+pci+wifi) with good results. They also make regular [PCI] (http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN751ND-Wireless-Adapter-Low-profile/dp/B005FUGPP4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1405104552&sr=8-4&keywords=tp-link+pci+wifi) depending on what you have available. I'm sure the Rosewill one is quite good too.

I also picked up something similar to [this] (http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-ANT2405C-Desktop-Omni-directional-Antenna/dp/B001VEAI74/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1405104686&sr=8-11&keywords=tp-link+antenna) to help with my signal, since my room is quite far from my router. It will give you some flexibility on your antenna placement, and gave me a huge boost in signal.

For your purposes either would probably work but I prefer having the cleaner look of a PCI card and I'm under the assumption that there is better power/bandwith going through PCI. If you do go with USB, I suggest something like [this] (http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN722N-Wireless-Adapter-External/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1405104921&sr=8-14&keywords=usb+wifi) where you can add on an optional antenna if you have signal issues.

Honestly, a range extender is not an ideal wireless solution for online gaming. Your N600 adapter is likely also a part of the problem that you have. If it is possible, your best option is to run a long ethernet cable to your router. If that is not possible, I would try getting a better wifi adapter for your pc. I would strongly recommend a pci adapter for a better connection. If you have to get a USB adapter, then at least get one with an external antenna. I currently have this usb adapter that works well enough for me. Some reviews say that they get connection drops but I had no problems with it so far. I play with ~50ms pings and rarely get ping spikes higher than 100ms. I guess that it wouldn't hurt to try to get a different router from Comcast. But again, a long ethernet cable is your best option.

PCIE version and USB version cuz I was just wondering if generally pcie is faster better than usb one or the other way around.

oldie, but still pretty great

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN722N-Wireless-Adapter-External/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463904971&sr=8-1&keywords=TP-LINK+TL-WN722

pi zero - $5.00

pins - $8.95

wifi adapter* - $13.33

right angle USB ports - $5.64

USB battery - $3.99

micro-mini usb cable - $2.89

Total: $39.80

*I used an Alfa AWUSO36NH but the TP-LINK TL-WN722N should work. More information on compatible network adapters here.

The optional Illuminated LED shutdown switch makes this device easier to use but costs an additional $16.99


About

PirateBox software runs on inexpensive hardware to connect users over an offline wifi network. Join it and your browser redirects to a simple interface where you can share files, chat, and stream video.

Pifm is a small program you can install in a Raspberry Pi PirateBox, aka “pi(rate)box.” It can broadcast on FM radio to inform potential users about the PirateBox wifi network, play uploaded music, and with a USB microphone Pifm lets you talk live to your audience.

Improvements

The first version of this project was well received so I'm back to share design and documentation improvements. Pi(rate)FM Zero is now fully self contained. It turns on and off with a button press and can automatically broadcast information about the wifi network over empty FM stations at user defined intervals.

Why not use a car/smartphone FM trasmitter?

You totally could. It might even be better in some situations if you don't mind a slightly larger, more expensive device with an extra battery to charge. Keep in mind you'd lose the ability to live broadcast with a microphone or play audio directly from the PirateBox.

Going forward

In my next version I'd like to improve the PirateBox interface and make a way for users to rate playlists while having Pifm automatically play the highest ranked tracks. Users could upload music and vote on which tracks gets played. It'd be your own personal short range interactive digital-analog radio station hosted on a private intranet.

Bonus**

Here's a .img file for your convenience. Just install it to an SD card (at least 4 gb) and run it in a Pi Zero to get started. Note: auto broadcast on FM isn't enabled by default so you'll need to add a cronjob as detailed in the guide if you want to activate this feature.

Be aware that using that 60 Hz monitor, you won't benefit from >60 fps which you might get using a 1070 at 1440p (obviously depending on the game).

This is the wireless adapter I use, great:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN722N-Wireless-Adapter-External/dp/B002SZEOLG

Thanks for the guide! I used it to set up Homepass on Windows 10 with the TL-WN722N tonight. I had to disable my MAC filter on my router's 2.4 GHz band before it would work (in retrospect, this is obvious since the MAC address of the wireless adapter is cycling through the entries BASE256.txt).

I'm not sure how current the list in BASE256.txt is; after getting 10-20 streetpasses within an hour, I got only one in three hours.

I ordered a tp link wireless adapter on Amazon that can handle up to 150mb/s you just plug it into your motherboards USB port. [Here's a link.] (TP-Link N150 Wireless High Gain USB Adapter (TL-WN722N), Version 2.0 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002SZEOLG?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf)

The 150mbps, when I bought it it was just under $20 and the other one was around $40 I think. The other one isn't the 300mbps it's the AC600. They both look the same and with an antenna, just one has higher bandwidth and can use 5ghz network, the 150 is only 2.4 ghz compatible.

Now you can get the AC600 for under $20, good deal.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Adapter-TL-WN722N-Version/dp/B002SZEOLG?th=1

Wow, i feel like we are issue twins :D * excuse the humor *

I had exactly similer issue 6 monthes ago wifi was highly capped on my laptob at around 4 - 7 mb/s while my other devices are 40 - 50 mb/s

anyhow for me at least it was internal card issue maybe weaken over time or something,

another reason for you maybe that your intenal card is forced to use 802.1g/b please check next time you in hotel which gives you terrible bandwidth options ( go to task mamanger - > Performance tab - > wifi -> look for connection type ) .

MY SOLUTION :

i bought 2 cheap USB adapters : TP link's Wn722n and Wn823n each 24 $ or something

and Ta da, my speed was up to roof back to normal range of other devices (using the antenna based wn722n right now), i dont really suggest it unless u dont mind the size but overall i had better range with it than with wn823n, please hence both are single band 2.4 .
Links :

wn823n : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0088TKTY2/

wn722n : https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-WN722N-Wireless-network-Adapter/dp/B002SZEOLG

if money aint a big issue i still suggest the Alfa dual long range because its state of art and long term usage friendly and when you get bored of it easy sell used .

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B002SZEOLG/

Another option for you if money is tight, it should be the n150 option. I own this and it works out of the box with kali via live usb and also works in windows10.

Were you able to connect before using macchanger? If not, it's not a Kali or macchanger thing, it's a visualization thing. VMs don't not have direct access to host hardware, the guest OS is separated from the host by a hypervisor.

If you already know this, I'm not trying to sound condescending. It's just a common question on here. I've gotten a bridged adapter to recognize my wifi as a wired connection before, but I can't remember how I did it. Maybe I am remembering incorrectly. Google around if you want, but it's infinitely easier to get a USB adapter or use a wired connection. I use this one:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-N150-Wireless-Adapter-TL-WN722N/dp/B002SZEOLG

There are better ones out there and people on this sub will usually recommend a better one, can't remember which one. Anyway, you'll want one capable of packet injection.

> edimax wifi dongle... Is the performance of this dongle better than the onboard wifi?

It might work better. I wouldn't expect it to be that much better, but try it and see.

Simply, WiFi is slower than hardwired Ethernet.
On top of that, you are using the Pi 3 or the Edimax for WiFi, which have the same problem. They are tiny receivers and transmitters using a tiny antenna. I have had a lot more luck getting decent WiFi speeds out of an access port, or using something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-N150-Wireless-Adapter-TL-WN722N/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=sr_1_23

NOTE: I haven't tried the TP-Link WN722N on a Pi. I don't know if it works.

yikes. I barely touch -80dBm
The link you posted seems kinda expensive for something that may not work in my case.
Will this antenna and this adapter work?

You mean one of these?

The wifi range on that is about 820 ft, less than the depth of the ocean in the area the plane went down. The structure of the black box would probably inhibit that signal somewhat, and the water even more so (yay thermoclines). Even then that doesn't really help us much because if you're within the wifi range in the area where it's most useful (on land) then you can probably already see the crash site pretty easily.

And hey, guess what? They already have multiple black boxes on planes. You can't really guarantee that floating would help them though, because they're just as likely to get trapped under wreckage as anything else that floats. These black boxes also give off a radio signal that can be tracked, although as we saw with the Malaysia Airlines flight this also has its limitations.

I've used the TP-link Wireless Adapter before and it's been pretty reliable and cheap. Lasted me through two different builds before I decided to upgrade. I linked the usb version but they have a PCIe version as well.

If you have a nicer router with features like dual band, AC, etc. then consider saving up for a nicer high end wireless adapter to take advantage of higher speeds. I'm currently using the Asus USB N53 and it's been reliable too.

Sorry for the late response Devinmaking, I looked over that motherboard, and as far as I can tell, it should run Linux without issue. It has an older audio codec (Realtek ALC887), so any recent kernel will support it. It also has an Intel LAN chip, which are known for having excellent support in Linux.

As for Wifi, most any Intel or Atheros based card will work without issue. However some Realtek and Broadcom based Wifi cards can a hassle to set up, or not be supported at all.

AFAIK, both the TP-Link TL-WN722N and Panda 300Mbps Wireless N USB Adapter are supported by most distros.

As for using a spare router as a repeater, I haven't ever done that myself, but I think you'll have to make sure the spare router is as fast as your other equipment, otherwise it will limit the speed by being the weakest link in the chain. So for instance if it's only a Wireless G router, and your other equipment is faster Wireless N stuff, you'll only run at the slower G speeds. If your internet connection is slower than the rated Wireless G speeds anyway, then none of that matters. :)

Anyway, hope that helps. \^_^

i like this one. external antenna capable, supports any mode you could need, dirt cheap and prime'able.

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN722N-Wireless-Adapter-External/dp/B002SZEOLG

Personally using a tp link one (one with an Antena. 600rs.).
It worked with no issues. Having a 50mbps connection. No drops in speeds, coverage and no latency problems either.

TP-Link TL-WN722N 150Mbps Wireless USB Adapter https://www.amazon.in/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-DFODb4AAY6MZ

I've used the TP Link TL-WN722N a lot with good results and have bought a couple of them; however, the price seems to be going up for some reason so I'm not sure if it's as great of a deal.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-N150-Wireless-Adapter-TL-WN722N/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1505216714&sr=8-1&keywords=tp+link+tlwn722n

As someone who had a hell of a time with Wireless Adaptors under linux I can safely say that I finally have one that just works. The TP-Link TL-WN77N works on Ubuntu 13.04 without issue. Plug and play, it also supports Windows 2000+ (Win8 is in beta but works fine).

http://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-Link-TL-WN722N-150Mbps-Wireless-Adapter/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1377603967&sr=8-1&keywords=tp+link+tl+wn722n

Just a suggestion, there are so many other good products out there than C&A. Just make a VM of Kali and get any wireless card that can do monitor/promiscuous mode. It's just

​

Any alfa card should work i think but I use the following.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-WN722N-Wireless-network-Adapter/dp/B002SZEOLG/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=atheros&qid=1554314194&s=gateway&sr=8-5

​

https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-AWUSO36NH-Wireless-Long-Rang-Network/dp/B0035APGP6/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=atheros&qid=1554314194&s=gateway&sr=8-8

​

https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-Long-Range-Dual-Band-Wireless-External/dp/B00VEEBOPG/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=AWUS052NH&qid=1554314402&s=gateway&sr=8-2

I have a sliding door partition to separate the driving area from the rear. I'm able to VHB tape my Outdoor Antenna to my immediate right of my drivers side head rest looking straight out the window. Works great. If you have time warner cable in your area you'll be able to bum a friends or family login information and pickup hotspots all across the city.


I have the outdoor antenna wired from the front running to the rear by attaching a N Male to RP-SMA cable -----> high gain usb wifi adapter N150 works fine ------> using a usb extension cable connect laptop.



Also if you wanted to connect multiple devices you would want to look into hooking up a repeater to your external antenna. I was thinking about building a raspberry pie with a miniature lcd + connected to a router programmed for a repeater. I would be able to connect / program different wifi networks on the fly.....however my setup above works fine for me.

I have had great results with this card:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002SZEOLG

You are correct. In my experience, this is generally not a problem. The hotel is probably giving you a slower uplink anyway. Or, even if you're not getting max speed, you're getting plenty to watch Netflix easily.

I'm not aware of a native two-radio travel router. However, being that I am a network engineer and interested in this kind of thing, I eventually ended up looking for a dual radio solution just to see if I could make it work. If nothing else, at least this gets my LAN traffic off the same frequency as the other nearby hotel guests on my same hotel AP.

I started with a Ravpower Filehub that I already had. I was going to link you to the Amazon page for it, but it appears they have reused the same page to sell a new version of the device that doesn't look like mine and I don't know if it can be used in the same way. The one I have looks like this:

http://www.getdatgadget.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/RAVPower-All-In-One-FileHub-3.jpg

That travel router is nice because it has a built in USB battery bank. That can be nice when you're trying to find the magic spot in the hotel where wifi is strong enough. I find the best positioning without cables, then plug it in.

I installed OpenWRT on it and went looking for a USB wifi radio to add on. OpenWRT has limited support for USB wifi radios, and in fact I couldn't find anything 802.11ac. I eventually found this dual-band N adapter, which is supported:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002SZEOLG

This gives me a true two-radio solution. The USB radio is dual-band and the internal radio is 2.4 only. OpenWRT isn't a super user-friendly solution, but it works for me. For example, it is up to me manually to set the LAN/AP channel to make sure it isn't simply sitting on the same channel as the WAN/client radio.

I have used this in a number of hotels (I travel a lot) and it works well with my Chromecast. This gets me past the captive portals on the Chromecast, and also on devices that are technically captive portal capable but annoying (like the Kindle). One login on any device is all it takes for all of my devices, no matter how many or which ones I bring.

I've even used it in a hotel with 128 kbps Internet that was too slow to stream. I was able to use Plex on my laptop to stream local content across the travel router's LAN to the Chromecast. The slow Internet WAN wasn't enough to stream on, but it was enough for the Chromecast to load apps and consider itself connected to the net.

One caveat: Some hotels limit the max speed of each client. If you log into their network with your phone and laptop as different clients, they each get a share. If you use a travel router, they both have to share a single client's allocation.

Random other advice: You know how streaming sticks often come with a short 3-inch or so HDMI extension cable? Use it. One of the hotel TV HDMI ports destroyed my Chromecast's HDMI connector (it actually pushed one of the pins on the Chromecast's HDMI connector back), and it would have been better if it had just destroyed the HDMI extension cable.

The overhead is not too bad. You can use any normal power supply for a Pi, and then buy a $13 WiFi adapter with monitor mode like this. If you are using Raspberry Pi 3, which have builtin regular WiFi for the communication, then each node costs ~$60. This is less than half the price of the similar dedicated hardware out there.

I think you should ideally have N-1 Pis, where N is the number of rooms you want to learn. With smart placement you can probably get by for less. I haven't tried Pi Zeros, but they should be able to be used as well, since this is not too CPU intensive.

This is what I use. Pretty good range and the chipset jives with Linux.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002SZEOLG/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1

As ePaperWeight mentioned, your shopping list would have a lot to do with what you plan on doing with it.

Keep in mind that the Pi Zero is very cheap partly because it does not have nearly as many ports as a full size Pi. It also has a less capable CPU than a full Pi 3. That being said, it's still impressive that its CPU and RAM are in line with older Pis that were used in all sorts of projects.

The lack of ports means that if you want to connect to USB, HDMI, Ethernet, or Wifi you will need adapters.

For the bare minimum for getting started I would suggest the items included in this kit (not necessarily suggesting the kit itself, these are all standard parts):
https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Zero-Starter-Kit/dp/B01N3XNPAM/ref=sr_1_1

• MicroSD Card (needed to install Raspbian or another OS)
  
• Power Supply (any 5v supply with micro USB aka phone charger)
  
• OTG (On The Go) cable for connecting a full size USB device
  
• Mini HDMI to standard HDMI adapter
  
  This will allow you to get a Zero to boot up and display on a monitor. The single USB port will limit what you can connect, but a wireless keyboard / mouse dongle will at least give you standard input devices.
  
  In order to connect Wifi or Ethernet in addition to a keyboard you will need a USB hub; preferably a powered hub.
  
  To connect a Pi Camera you'll not only need the camera module, but an adapter ribbon cable (the Zero's port is slightly smaller).
  
  The GPIO header does not include pins. This is more configurable, but means that you'll need to solder your own.
  
  As you can see, all this can quickly add up. The Pi Zero really highlights the value of a full Pi. So if you're considering the Zero in order to save money run the numbers. You might not be saving much.
  
  The size and lower power requirements of the Zero make it great for embedded projects. Anything that runs on a battery or needs to fit in a small case would benefit from using a Zero. Even then, the faster speed of a Pi 3 means that it will be a smoother experience to program on the 3 even if you plan to migrate the software to the Zero.
  
  Other links for reference:
  
  
• Pi Camera Module - https://www.amazon.com/Raspberry-Pi-Camera-Module-Megapixel/dp/B01ER2SKFS/ref=sr_1_1
  
• Pi Zero Camera adapter cable - https://www.amazon.com/SainSmart-v1-3-Camera-Cable-Raspberry/dp/B01LGUJTDG/ref=sr_1_4
  
• GPIO Header Pins - https://www.amazon.com/15Pcs-2-54-Single-11MM-Header/dp/B00FR19WQA/ref=sr_1_2
  
• Ethernet Adapter - https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Ethernet-Network-Adapter/dp/B00ET4KHJ2/ref=sr_1_4
  
• USB Hub - https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M/ref=sr_1_14
  
• Wifi Dongle - https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=sr_1_3
  
• Absolute insanity down the rabbit hole - https://www.amazon.com/Adeept-Ultimate-Starter-Learning-Raspberry/dp/B01FLSF4PQ/ref=sr_1_9
  
  TLDR; Pick a project and work backwards to figure out a shopping list. Otherwise you'll spend way too much or your new Zero will probably live in a desk drawer.
  
  
  

I get the "trying to make it work" and all...

But honestly? Just buy another wifi adapter.

You can get them for like $7US, shipped to you in 2 days: https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY

Thanks for the all the interest guys! Wasn't expecting this sort of response.
I'll give you all some details on the build so far.

To confirm this isn't for taking onto a flight! The type of case is called flight case.

The case is a flightcase with a foam inlay. The foam has since been ripped out.
http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/flight-case-with-foam-n70ap

A compact but easy to use wireless keyboard + mouse.
http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/maplin-mini-wireless-deskset-n69jx

The screen is a 10.1 LCD screen with a 12V LCD controller I got off ebay.
http://www.66ino.com/index.php/raspberry-pi-10-1-tft-lcd-display-module-1280x800-hdmi-vga-av-controller-cable.html

The battery is a 12V 5000mAH NiMH battery pack:
http://www.componentshop.co.uk/12v-5000mah-sc-nimh-compact-battery-pack.html

A USB powered 7 port USB hub from the pi hut to power the Rpi
http://thepihut.com/products/7-port-usb-hub-for-the-raspberry-pi

A 5V UBEC (Universal Battery Elimination Circuit) for stepping down the 12V battery to a constant 5V to power the USB powered hub. You can't see the UBEC in the image, its under the LCD Controller.
http://www.hobbywing.com/product_show.asp?id=209

An Edimax EW-7811UN 150Mbps Wireless Nano USB Adapter
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Edimax-EW-7811UN-150Mbps-Wireless-Adapter/dp/B003MTTJOY/

There are some other minor things like a power switch for the battery. A port for plugging in a 12V DC jack to charge the battery or power the system completely without the battery.
There is also an extension for the ethernet port.

My girlfriend is helping with designing a internal frame/case for the components in the bottom and a mount for the LCD screen. This will probably be in perspex plastic, with an inlay for the keyboard to sit in.

So it looks like Dell does not have win 10 drivers for that model. If I had to guess its some type of wireless driver issue. You could buy one of those usb wifi adapters for home use, they are pretty cheap

Maybe get one of those and test at home. Its a head scratcher right now since it works on campus but not at home

> 16gb of ram if it fits in the budget

16GB is very unnecessary if you are only planning to do gaming. 16GB is useful for video editing, video editing, etc. Also, you will have to spend an additional $100 for 16gb because RAM prices are off the roof atm.

 

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor | $193.44 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | ASRock - AB350 Pro4 ATX AM4 Motherboard | $56.98 @ Newegg
Memory | Team - Elite Plus 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $88.99 @ Newegg
Storage | SanDisk - SSD PLUS 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $54.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $41.77 @ OutletPC
Video Card | EVGA - GeForce GTX 1060 3GB 3GB SC GAMING Video Card | $189.99 @ B&H
Case | Phanteks - ECLIPSE P400 TEMPERED GLASS ATX Mid Tower Case | $59.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | EVGA - BQ 500W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $39.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $756.14
| Mail-in rebates | -$30.00
| Total | $726.14
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-11-16 17:39 EST-0500 |

 

This build has a lot of upgradability in the future. I would suggest upgrading the GPU and then the RAM in the future if you want to keep this build.

Edit: forgot your [wifi card] (https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY?psc=1&SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-d-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B003MTTJOY) here you go [:)] (https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY?psc=1&SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-d-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B003MTTJOY)

I personally don't think you can wrong with any choice of adapter. I purchased two and I've had good results with both (first 2):

TP-Link @ $15

Media Link @ $20

Edimax @ $10.. more concealed for a laptop

Again, can't say specifically on which I prefer... they're all great. Check the reviews though, they're insightful!

an alternative to consider may be an actual laptop, maybe a refurb you can find cheaply, from which you physically remove the wireless NIC. if you wanted to connect to a wireless network, you could simply plug in a usb wifi adapter. there are some adapters, like this one, that boast native support for linux boxes. the advantage here is that a cheap refurb would have the horsepower to handle everything you wanted to do, as well as providing 100% certainty that it isn't transmitting any data since the adapter's physical presence in a usb port is required.

just be sure to look for a device with easy access to the nic (ymmv).

just my opinion on this - pay $15 or so and get a USB wifi that works in both Linux and Windows. Less time spent on a frustrating issue - wifi on Linux.

http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY?ie=UTF8&keywords=usb%20wifi%20adapter&qid=1464277887&ref_=sr_1_4&s=pc&sr=1-4

This dongle is less than 10 bucks, 3/4th of this things size is the usb adaptor, and it can pull in 150Mbps

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_1stExbDBVS47F


Don't get my wrong 70Mbps is great, but it's by no means pushing technology or hard to acquire

I have several of these floating around works in everything I've thrown it in.

Edimax EW-7811Un 150Mbps 11n Wi-Fi USB Adapter, Nano Size Lets You Plug it and Forget it, Ideal for Raspberry Pi / Pi2, Supports Windows, Mac OS, Linux (Black/Gold) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kutExb2MV5KDY

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=twister_B01EMS6TVE?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Sorry, I'm not familiar with debugging drivers. Quick google reveals it might involve turning debug mode on with ifconfig, running /etc/netstart and viewing more verbose dmesg resulting from debug mode. See ifconfig (8):

http://man.openbsd.org/OpenBSD-current/man8/ifconfig.8

Two USB adapters I've had success with using OpenBSD 5.9:

USB-ethernet (axe driver):

http://www.apple.com/shop/product/MC704LL/A/apple-usb-ethernet-adapter

USB-wireless (urtwn driver):

https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY

SSDs and HDDs do the exact same thing : store data.

Regular HDDs store data on platters that rotate (think a record player) and can be noisy, hot, and slow. SSDs store data on a chip (think a flash drive), and can be expensive.

They both have pretty important benefits, though : SSDs are really fast, and HDDs can store a lot more data for your dollar.

To put it in perspective, lets say you have $125 to buy a hard drive, you can get an SSD that will hold about 250GB, or a HDD that will hold about 3000GB for the same money.

As far as Wi-fi, most motherboards don't have wi-fi built in, so if you aren't near your router and/or don't want to run a cable from the router, you will need to buy a wi-fi adapter. Even decent wi-fi adapters are pretty cheap - I have this one from amazon and it works great and is nine bucks:

http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-Adapter-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY/

I have not thought of that, but it is certainly interesting.

How would you connect your wifi adapter to said antenna? I typically use this Edimax one, do you open it up to solder a uFL connector on? I like the idea, but I'm not sure how to standardize the connector/ antenna for all the potential wifi adapters people use.

Yep! So used to seeing zero w's on here.

I had a regular zero first, then got a zero w. Here is the wifi module to get:
Edimax EW-7811Un 150Mbps 11n Wi-Fi USB Adapter,
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_djPdzb5P8FP7A

Plug and play. I had initially gotten an edimax with wifi and Bluetooth which was not plug n play. I did eventually get it all set up but it was a pain as it took internet to install an internet device! (Had to download some stuff from github to get it to work)

Short story- I still have that edimax dongle I linked, so I asked my sister in law who lives near a micro center to pick me up a pi zero and a pi zero w. She mailed them today and I'll have them Monday for MSRP!! So that will make 8 pi's so far....... but my last plain zero most likely.

Edit: by plug and play I do mean that you'll still need an micro USB-> regular USB adapter. Those are plentiful out there.

From what I am seeing it uses broadcom, so I would think it would work. I would check drivers and see if you just have to enable 3rd party driver.

Have you tried to run off cd/USB in live mode to see if it works there?

Edit: you could also get this for $8 and it will work. I use on my Raspberry Pi running Raspbian. Just have to plug it in, so should be same with Ubuntu. Only thing is monitor mode not available (if you need)

I would add 2gb more RAM, then upgrade the cpu to this, and finally put in this. For the WiFi receiver I use this for LANs because it's easier than bringing a cable, but it works, not much you can want.

yeah here are some wifi and ethernet adapters that work with tails [according to https://www.reddit.com/r/tailswiki/wiki/index/tails-compatible-devices ]:

USB WiFi adapters

https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Wireless-Adapter-Dongle/dp/B00GFAN498/

https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY/

USB Ethernet adapters

http://plugable.com/products/usb3-e1000

http://plugable.com/products/usb3-hub3me

or you could also just plug in an ethernet cable [instead of using the wlan], which should work too.

I have one very similar to this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY
There are other brands and they range from $6 to $14. You just plug them in a USB and it just works. I have one that I use to pair with a Wii U Pro Controller.

Compared with everything else you buy to build a pc, it's a great inexpensive addon.

Only if you can find someone to test it for you. The connector itself is identical, as you said. The documentation for the laptop might have more information. That said, your wifi slot supports mPCIe, so you can just replace your Wifi card with the eGPU connector. To solve the loss of Wifi connectivity, just use a "nano" Wifi USB stick kept constantly plugged into one of your USB slots: Something like this.

Do you know if this would work? Looks fantastic and cheap.

Not a problem, glad I could help. I use this one. It's super easy to use and works great, just plug and connect. I've had no issues after a year.

Very. You just have to burn Raspbmc or OpenElec (different XBMC distributions for the Pi) to the SD card, plug in a wifi dongle (I use this one), boot the thing up, and everything just works.

$8.68 150MBps USB Nano Adapter

It was one like this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_UYyTybQNW8V5K

ROBO 3D R1+ $799

Raspberry Pi 2 $38

WiFi adapter $10

Color touchscreen + case $50

Power supply $10

32GB SD Card $13

OctoPrint $0

Large build volume, heated glass bed, self leveling, wireless 3D printer $920

Good article here

http://www.howtogeek.com/139433/how-to-turn-a-raspberry-pi-into-a-low-power-network-storage-device/

Also for the wireless bit, if you don't have an edimax adaptor they work great in the pi 2. Last I checked, these were $10 on Amazon.

Edimax EW-7811Un 150Mbps 11n Wi-Fi USB Adapter, Nano Size Lets You Plug it and Forget it, Ideal for Raspberry Pi / Pi2, Supports Windows, Mac OS, Linux (Black/Gold) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_gdC7wbG7BT0JA

I tested 3 different wireless adapters in my 918+:

• Asus USB-N10 (Did not work)
  
• Rosewill RNWD-N1501UB (Did not work)
  
• Edimax EW-7811Un (Works)
  
  ​
  
  Here's the output of "lsusb":
  
  
  
  |__usb1 1d6b:0002:0404 09 2.00 480MBit/s 0mA 1IF (Linux 4.4.59+ xhci-hcd xHCI Host Controller 0000:00:15.0) hub
  
  |__1-1 051d:0003:0106 00 2.00 12MBit/s 2mA 1IF (American Power Conversion Smart-UPS 750 FW:UPS 08.3 / ID=18 AS1237224726 )
  
  |__1-3 7392:7811:0200 00 2.00 480MBit/s 500mA 1IF (Realtek 802.11n WLAN Adapter 00e04c000001)
  
  |__1-4 f400:f400:0100 00 2.00 480MBit/s 200mA 1IF (Synology DiskStation 7F008A5818DA5A76)
  
  |__usb2 1d6b:0003:0404 09 3.00 5000MBit/s 0mA 1IF (Linux 4.4.59+ xhci-hcd xHCI Host Controller 0000:00:15.0) hub
  
  ​
  
  Under the hood it shows up as wlan0 but it doesn't show up in "Network Interfaces" of Control Panel. This may limit some of the DSM-specific overlay UI settings but as far as I see it's another network interfaces at the OS level.

What internet provider do you have?

This happened to me 3 nights in a row recently and I figured it was something wrong with my wifi. I bought this and haven't had any problems since:

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PA4010KIT-Powerline-Adapter-Starter/dp/B00AWRUICG

I use something like [this] (http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PA4010KIT-Powerline-Adapter-Starter/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1452601028&sr=1-2&keywords=tp-link)