(Part 2) Best network adapters according to redditors

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We found 9,198 Reddit comments discussing the best network adapters. We ranked the 1,110 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.

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Subcategories:

Powerline network adapters
Laptop network adapters
Bluetooth network adapters

Top Reddit comments about Computer Network Adapters:

u/[deleted] · 103 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

It actually is. Basic Royal Kludge RK61 with some various keycaps I had from other builds.

$40 for a wireless (Bluetooth) clicky mechanical that feels good to type on - plus one that has a simple backlight with different lighting modes was just the deal for me, as the most duty this bad boy sees is controlling the PC I have running on my living room TV. Probably going to make another one for the Surface Pro I use for DMing DnD campaigns.

EDIT:

Since there's some interest in this, here are the exact pieces I used for this setup and links to buy them:

-Keycap Set 1 - Almost Everything

-Keycap Set 2 - Blank Green Shift Keys

-Base Keyboard Model

-Mouse

-Mousepad

-Bluetooth Adapter for PC


BONUS:

-It's not the one I have, but here's a cool artificial succulent

u/Michelanvalo · 36 pointsr/KotakuInAction

Mother boards with WiFi have external antennas (scroll down a bit), they just screw on the back like any other WiFi radio. Bluetooth receivers tend to be no bigger than USB dongle ones but they don't take up a USB slot.

Wifi motherboards do not cost more than using an external card. WiFi LGA1151. Non-WiFi.. The 3 external adapters you linked cost $37, $85 and $108 respectively. The difference between two motherboards is certainly less than $85 for one with and without Wifi.

Additionally, if you notice most of the WiFi enabled motherboards are mini-ITX where space is at a premium. Using built in Wifi is a space saver. Rather than trying to cram another PCI card in your already limited space.

There are plenty of valid reasons to buy a motherboard with built-in WiFi, don't come at me with your bullshit.

u/kawlundram · 30 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

The licensed LAN adapters are pretty overpriced as they are. Most LAN adapters that are compatible with Switch can be found for far less than the standard Hori

I personally use one of these
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LLUEJFU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_M.Z5Bb6EPC3RV

u/Ender519 · 24 pointsr/homeautomation

I suspect it doesn't get much press because most home setups don't have PoE and the average person has no idea what it is or what it can do. PoE switches are more expensive and you have to deal with power allocation and I think for this reason a lot of home gear doesn't include it because probably a single digits percentage of users would capitalize on it.

Anyway, if you have it there are also several PoE splitters available which takes PoE in and outputs Ethernet plus USB/Lightning or other power tips at 5V or 12V depending on the splitter. So even if your device is not PoE if it is Ethernet and USB power then you're golden. They aren't expensive either.

Examples:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDLUSE7
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CDT7KPO
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D98PGZG

I used these splitters to power cameras and Ring keypads and RPi's and all kinds of crap. Cheaper and easier than PoE injectors so long as you have PoE switch to begin with.

u/SirMaster · 22 pointsr/buildapc

https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-802-11AC-Wireless-AC3100-Adapter-PCE-AC88/dp/B01H9QMOMY

I don't see anyone else recommending a 4x4 AC wave2 wifi adapter, which until 802.11ax is out should be the best. Assuming you have a 4x4 AC wave2 router of course.

u/smithincanton · 22 pointsr/homelab

Same here! They have these POE micro USB splitters that split off 5v and Ethernet for like $10 bucks. I was thinking about integrating the adapter into the sled and have keyhole jacks in the back that the sled connects to. Power and Ethernet in one connection!

Link for PoE adapter:UCTRONICS IEEE 802.3af Micro USB Active PoE Splitter Power Over Ethernet 48V to 5V 2.4A for Tablets, Dropcam or Raspberry Pi (48V to 5V 2.4A) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01MDLUSE7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nD4RCb22AX9KB

u/IphtashuFitz · 18 pointsr/Ubiquiti

I recently upgraded to their 24-port PoE switch and I'm very happy with it. It's powering my now 3 UAP's & cloud key, as well as two raspberry pi's that I run pi-hole on. (I'm using these to provide power to the rasperry pi's). Aside from the cleaner wiring, it's also very handy for getting more insight into your network traffic, etc.

u/terraphantm · 15 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Anything with an AX88179 chipset would work. UGreen and Pluggable seem to be popular brands. I bought this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LLUEJFU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - I figured the extra USB ports might be nice to have if I want to run 2 gamecube adapters

An alternative would be the Bionik ethernet adapter, which fits entirely in the dock so it's a bit cleaner: https://www.amazon.com/DreamGEAR-Soundbar-Home-Speaker-BNK-9018/dp/B07583N38P/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1542675672&sr=8-7&keywords=bionik+switch

u/KingdaToro · 14 pointsr/Fios

FiOS uses a device called an ONT (Optical Network Terminal) that translates the incoming fiber optic signal to internet, cable TV, and phone signals that your devices can understand. It's essentially the modem. This is the "OCN" you're referring to. It has an Ethernet port, a Coaxial cable port, and two phone ports.

The internet signal can be delivered over either the Ethernet or Coaxial cable port, but any speed of 100/100 and up requires Ethernet so we don't need to even talk about using Coax for it. When Ethernet is used for internet, the Coax port only carries the TV channels.

The Ethernet port on the ONT needs to be connected directly to the WAN/Internet port on the router. This doesn't have to be a Verizon router, it will work with any router. Obviously, for gigabit service you'll need a router with gigabit WAN and LAN ports, and that can actually do routing (remember, routing does not mean Wi-Fi) at gigabit speeds. I wasn't able to find any information on the Verizon router's routing throughput.

The best FiOS router is AC1750, which means one 2.4 GHz 450mbps stream and three 5 GHz 433mbps streams. The maximum theoretical speed of a device depends on how many streams it supports: 433mbps for 1 stream, 867mbps for 2 streams, 1300mbps for 3 streams. Very few devices support 3 streams, and in real-world conditions (particularly since 5 GHz is bad at going through walls) you can expect about half of the theoretical maximum speed. So, yes, you need an Ethernet connection to the router to get full gigabit speeds. The best way to make Wi-Fi work better is not to get a better and more expensive router, but to add additional APs so that you're always close to one and can get a good signal. APs, by definition, require an Ethernet connection to the router.

Using a non-Verizon router is dead simple when you only have internet, but with FiOS TV service it becomes more complex. FiOS cable boxes get their guide and VoD data through the internet, and like anything else they have to go through the router to access the internet. They do this with the MoCA protocol, which transmits data over coaxial cables. For this to work, the router must also support MoCA, have a Coaxial cable port, and have a Coaxial cable connection to the cable boxes. Only Verizon routers have this hardware built in. You're not out of luck, though. You can still use a non-Verizon router if you get the MoCA hardware separately. You just need to get a MoCA adapter, connect the coaxial cable that would otherwise be connected to the Verizon router to its Coax In port, and connect its Ethernet port to a LAN port on your router.

u/Fairuse · 12 pointsr/Chromecast

I used the following guide for my setup.

https://productforums.google.com/forum/#!topic/chromecast/xo_NDh5CZA8;context-place=topicsearchin/chromecast/category$3Achrome-os

The ethernet adapter I got was the Linksys USB3GIG. It is nice that the USB3GIG supports 1000Gb and has USB3.0 to take full advantage of the bandwidth in theory.

My setup cost me $29, but it can be done for $20.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CXAC1ZW

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDLUSE7

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MYT481C

Edit: I changed the amazon links since I didn't realize amazon shorten links are referral links.

u/neilenore · 12 pointsr/AndroidTV

Mi Box S is the next and cheaper alternative for Android TV. It has 4K and HDR but no ethernet adaptor, you should be able to add one by getting an ethernet adapter (Ugreen brand works perfectly for Mi Box users):

You should be able to get one on Amazon

Ethernet Only ($13)

Ethernet w/ USB 3.0 ($20)

​

If you will be mostly streaming or watching you should be fine with a Mi Box.

u/iamwhoiamtoday · 11 pointsr/homelab

Yeah! I've been using THESE for my 1st / 2nd / 3rd generation Raspberry Pi's, hopefully the new ones take up less space / are easier to manage cables for. (Note: they work well with my UniFi PoE switches)

u/dayankuo234 · 10 pointsr/WindowsMR

if your pc does not have built-in Bluetooth, you're going to have to get an adaptor. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0775YF36R/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Use rechargeable batteries that have more than 1.5 V. Avoid 1.2 V if you can, controllers will occasionally read them as 'low' and turn off, even though they are fine. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HQ7QV7W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

free games to keep you busy: google earth, vrchat, and rec room.

u/loveinalderaanplaces · 10 pointsr/vintagecomputing

I see yours has a hard drive. That's really really cool--definitely not the usual 5155 fare.

You can do serial connectivity, which is easy and well documented, or you can do the slightly less well documented but way funnier and more future-proof method.

I used this to get my 5150 online.

  1. Obtain an Ethernet controller like the NE2000--something that doesn't care too much about the extra lines on the 16-bit portion of the ISA bus. I have personally had best luck with the 3Com Etherlink series, 3C509C to be specific. If this is not an option, there exists Xircom ethernet adapters that plug into a parallel port and you can use one of those instead, though that isn't as fun as an integrated solution.

  2. Install the packet drivers, set your IRQs and I/O ports accordingly. This may prove difficult if you have no way of getting files to it to start with. If you can't write 360K disks, you can attempt to transmit them over serial, which is another task in itself.

  3. Set up mTCP (http://brutman.com/mTCP/) to use the packet driver.

    You now have a 5155 that can talk over ethernet. If you connect an external wired to wifi ethernet bridge like this one perhaps you can have a luggable computer with wi-fi access!

    Disclosure that I love doing ridiculous things like that--making an Apple II talk to the internet is just as much fun--so please excuse the bias.

    Serial transmission will be easier and more era-appropriate if that's what you're after, but ethernet gives you access to the Internet as well as being able to transmit files to it over HTTP or FTP, which is majorly convenient
u/tquill · 10 pointsr/PleX

I have mine on a powerline adapter and it works fine for me.

I've been using this one.

u/bfodder · 9 pointsr/homeautomation

For powering the Pi. Previously you would have had to use something like this.

u/PixelFelon · 9 pointsr/homelab

I don't think there's any non-Cisco equipment that can do that, but you could buy a passive PoE injector. It only powers one cable, but it is cheaper than buying a whole Cisco PoE switch.

Like this: TL-PoE150S

Or you could just buy a Cisco power brick (keep in mind it needs an IEC C13 cable), which is about the same price: Cisco CP-PWR-CUBE

The Cisco IP phones are very cool, so I hope you get them working.

u/tornadoRadar · 9 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I've done that exact setup.

2 of these.
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-NanoStation-Dedicated-Management-NS-5ACL-US/dp/B078NN1J4K/

1 of these for within the barn
https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-GREENnet-Switching-Protection-TPE-TG82G/dp/B074PXNRFH/

1 of these for inside the house:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PoE150S-Injector-Adapter-compliant/dp/B001PS9E5I/


If you want wifi out there you can do a LR:
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-UniFi-UAP-AC-LR-Single-Version/dp/B01609AF22/

Cameras you can use a variety. but even at 4k resolution with h264 you're at 75 mbps with 4 cameras at 30fps.

one camera option:
https://www.amazon.com/Camera-Outdoor-Security-Surveillance-Waterproof/dp/B0776S8N8X/


edit: i also suggest a battery backup to clean power up in remote buildings. esp if they're old
https://www.amazon.com/APC-Battery-Protector-Charging-BE600M1/dp/B01FWAZEIU/

u/mbbird · 9 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

True, $10

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Ethernet-Network-Adapter/dp/B00ET4KHJ2

I hadn't shopped around because it wasn't my Switch, and Splatoon is gonna be a bit janky anyway because nobody else is using Ethernet, but the Nintendo one is $25 for some reason lmao

u/qupada42 · 7 pointsr/Ubiquiti

No, the 24V ones only work with the older AC-Lite and AC-LR (and the Nanobeam, etc non-UniFi products).

I've used this model TP-Link PoE injector for a 802.3af UniFi AP (AC-Pro) before and it works fine.

u/Bodycount9 · 7 pointsr/AndroidTV

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LLUEJFU/

Ethernet port for the Mi Box solved. It's solid. Been working on both my Mi Box's for over a month with no downtime.

u/LeoPanthera · 7 pointsr/Ubiquiti

You could use Powerline ethernet to connect the AP to the network without any visible wires.

u/aimless_ly · 7 pointsr/linuxadmin

PoE adapter for only 1 cable run to the Pi and consolidated AC/DC conversion in my PoE switch for better efficiency (and UPS runtime). https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDLUSE7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_jDYrwuD1vAMfp

u/smokeybehr · 7 pointsr/amateurradio

You could always get something like this to power it, assuming that the power requirements of the device don't exceed the rating of the adapter.

u/jftuga · 7 pointsr/pihole

Can you find a display that is powered from the RPi itself? If so, then you can power the RPi from this device for $11.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MDLUSE7/

Here are two comments from this Amazon page:

I bought this for a FingBox (5v 2A, micro USB) and it works great! Also hooked it up to a RPi3 with the RPi touch display. Worked just fine, but I must admit I didn't leave it running long, just booted it up. Using this w/ the FingBox saves me from using an AC outlet in my server closet which are in short supply. Must use 48V POE on the switch.

Works perfectly. My switch recognizes it as a class 3 PoE device, and typically consuming 3.1 to 3.5 watts of power. It plugged right into my pi (with a 3.5" display) and so far I have not found any problems.
The only thing I'd mention is there's no clear indication of which network connection faces the switch, and which faces the client device. I took a guess that with the male RJ45 and micro-usb cable being the same length, that was where the pi should go, and I was correct. (I include a picture of the "correct" manner of connecting it.)


Hope this helps.

u/brbATF · 6 pointsr/networking

https://www.amazon.com/UCTRONICS-802-3af-Splitter-Ethernet-Raspberry/dp/B01MDLUSE7/

Has an led on it or add your own via usb power pins

Hope your ubiquiti switches actually provide standards-compliant Poe and not ubiquiti’s proprietary piece of shit “passive Poe”

u/alch3m1stz · 6 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Of course it can! hubs dont need drivers. I use this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LLUEJFU/

you get a usb ethernet and a hub all in one :D

However, there isnt a game that really supports 8 controllers right now. Bomberman really only supports 4 sets of joycons which they translate L and R joycons inputs seperately even though they are paired in sets. so it's really a hack rather than true 8 controller support. you'll probably get at most 4 controllers on a hub.
https://www.konami.com/games/bomberman/r/us/en/page/controller_settings/

u/mywindow · 6 pointsr/nexus6

Sure, It has two modes:

u/dhocariz · 6 pointsr/CODZombies

actually, IMO the best answer is a ethernet powerline adapter. The way this works is that it distributes the internet LAN signal through the electrical power outlets. The way this should be set up is when you purchase it you receive 2 units. 1 unit should be by the router, the other in the location of desired internet (in your case your room). It is extremely easy to set up and I was able to buy a unit for 30 bucks. I pay for 100Mbps service and constintatly have download speeds of 50 on my ps4 using this. If you go this route, which I recommend, I would make sure the unit is connected DIRECTLY to the wall, not to a powerstrip. The powerstrip acts like a "wireless booster" and reduces your speeds. IF you only have one outlet some products do have a jack built in so it doesn't even take up an outlet. Example below:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Powerline-Pass-through-TL-PA8010P-KIT/dp/B00Y3QPG1A/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1474644742&sr=8-3&keywords=ethernet+powerline+adapter

Please note I realize this one is not in the $30 range I just wanted to give you an example.

EDIT: TL;DR Poweline ethernet adapter > 1000 FT ethernet cable. Check out link for example - there are cheaper models that work great.

u/mask_demasque · 6 pointsr/GameDeals

A tip if you're going to use powerline adapters: make sure the adapter is plugged in directly to the wall outlet.

I originally had the powerline adapters plugged into surge protectors since, unfortunately, my powerline adapter blocks both outlets no matter which it's plugged into. It was garbage quality so I was pretty disappointed. Then I realized that maybe there's some extra resistance or electrical hurdles from going through the surge protector. Plugged them into the walls and now I stream games from my bedroom to my living room in my apartment. Never experience any problems, though I've never tried using another intense electrical appliance while streaming. I imagine vacuuming or something like that would bring the streaming quality down.

Here's what I use:

http://smile.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PA8010P-KIT-Pass-through-Powerline/dp/B00Y3QPG1A/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1464903361&sr=1-5&keywords=powerline+adapter

They also have a cheaper model that doesn't block both outlets, but I read (somewhere on the internet...) that that version uses an inferior technology so it might not do it as well. I didn't really wanna take chances so I went for that model because someone else said they got steam link to work using that specific one.

u/Jrech84 · 6 pointsr/Games

Ended up buying this one off amazon.

TP-LINK TL-PA8010P KIT AV1200 Gigabit with Power Outlet Pass-through Powerline Adapter, Up to 1200Mbps https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Y3QPG1A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_AkM4wbJT9KG39

u/Weed_Me_Up · 6 pointsr/xboxone

I've used this set before at a customers house for streaming Appletv and it worked great. I wouldn't get the cheaper one.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00Y3QPG1A/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468775515&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=ethernet+over+power&dpPl=1&dpID=41lTgRCVtIL&ref=plSrch

Just make sure you don't use an extension cord on it and make sure both outlets are on the same circuit breaker (which unless you have a huge house they should be). Was easy to setup.... Plug and play.

u/Diesel4719 · 6 pointsr/computertechs
u/NorthAntrim · 6 pointsr/techsupport

The best solution for using WiFi on your desktop would probably be to get a PCI wireless card, like this one.

If you aren't comfortable adding a PCI card, or don't have any space for one, you can get a USB wireless adapter, such as this one.

Finally, if you want a better solution that's not running a long cable, buy power line adapters. You plug one into a socket near the router and connect it via Ethernet to the router, then you plug another one in beside your PC and run Ethernet from it to your PC. It uses the wiring in the house to carry data, and is often better than WiFi.

Personally, I would go with the power line adapters then the PCI wireless card.

u/TopFlightSecurity_ · 6 pointsr/PlaystationClassic

Thank you! I've just tested a TP-Link TL-WN725N that I use on my SNES Classic, and I was able to go online in RetroArch on the PS Classic!

Here's an Amazon link to the TL-WN725N.

I've also tested a TP-Link Archer T9UH just for the hell of it, which did not work, as I expected.

EDIT: Also for the hell of it, I have just tested a Cable Matters USB 2.0 to Ethernet adapter, that I use on my Raspberry Pi Zero W, and it works on the PS Classic too!

Here's an Amazon link to the USB 2.0 to Ethernet adapter.

u/Jemikwa · 5 pointsr/homeowners

Network cabling everywhere. Even if you aren't in tech, you'll still find tremendous use out of this. Some requirements if I were to get it done custom:

  • At least one ethernet jack per room, maybe two per room on opposite sides if I could splurge. These are called network drops.
  • For each ethernet jack, run TWO ethernet cat5/6 per drop, because if one of them breaks or fails, you don't want to be the one that has to rewire a second one from your network closet to the jack. Also useful for testing if the cable is the culprit or if your networking gear is at fault. You don't have to hook up both cables on both sides, just choose one cable per jack to connect and the other is left dangling until you need it.
  • Addendum to above, if you want to be very fancy, get ceiling mounted wireless access points and have a network drop in the ceiling where the WAP will be mounted. You can get WAPs that are powered over an ethernet cable (called Power over Ethernet, PoE) and you would need a PoE Injector with your switch equipment to supply enough power over the lines (though some network switches PoE inject by default, so look for those if you want convenience), or you can wire another power outlet to where the WAP will go in parallel to the network drop that should be there too. Unless your home layout is convoluted, one, maybe two WAPs per floor is sufficient, usually in the common areas of each floor. Too many will cause interference with each other and you'll have a bad wifi signal. You can go with consumer grade TPLink or Netgear (ceiling mounted, remember, not just any old wireless router), or go with a more enterprise Ubiquity WAP (what we use).
  • Find a good spot for your networking gear, preferably near your home "demarc" AKA where your internet comes into the house at. Or, move the demarc into a closet for easier access. Have a patch panel set up that all of the network drops from the rooms connects to, and then you would connect each jack on the patch panel to a network switch, which then has one uplink (connection) to your home modem/router. Of course, the patch panel and network switch have to have at least as many ports as you have network drops to rooms, so if you have 16 drops, you'll have to get a 16 port patch panel and a 16+1 port switch (+1 because you have to have one connection to your uplink router/modem).
  • Not 100% necessary, but if you like having internet during power outages, or just momentary power in general during an outage, get a UPS or two or four... It will provide battery backup power to whatever is plugged into it for a certain amount of time, depending on the electrical load (how many devices you have plugged in, and how much power each device uses). I personally have 4 UPSs all around the house. One for the bedroom, and our phone chargers are plugged into them so we still have charged phones if a power outage happens overnight; one for our desktop computers (avid gamers :P); one for our networking equipment (power spike usually means you lost your internet and it has to reboot. I haven't had to deal with since getting a UPS unless the outage lasts for longer than 30-45 minutes!); and one for the living room TV setup and consoles. If you could only get one, I'd recommend it for the networking gear so you still have internet during momentary spikes. Useful for cell phones and laptops!

    This turned out longer than I expected, so if anything is confusing or you want more details, let me know!
u/melancholyway · 5 pointsr/Amd

Did you buy him the card already? The RX 470 and RX480 are coming at the end of the month and will both feature better performance in battlefield and GTA and both are cheaper than that $250 380 you have in the cart.

But to answer your questions. No the 860k won't be much of a bottleneck in those games. Especially if you overclock it a bit with a good cooler. That cooler in your list only does a light overclock.

Can I also make a few suggestions?
You're building budget but went with a $200 monitor? Might as well spring for freesync and 1ms response time while you're at it.

Better Cooler - trust me it's worth it

2 Sticks of 4GB Instead for Dual Channel

Wifi Pci card over usb wifi

Why not a nice Micro Atx case to match the motherboard





u/mbazdell · 5 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Something like this. The OP link then is probably the same thing but the person who took the picture had no idea what it is. This is funnier now.

u/NintendoManiac64 · 5 pointsr/buildapc

Few different build variants depending on your cousin's needs.

Note that this motherboard only has 2 PCIe slots, so you might not want to use a wifi adapter that's PCIe (I personally am partial to this IOGEAR ethernet-wifi adapter, but it's only 150mbps and the 300mbps version is more expensive at $44 bucks).

Special mention that the RAM is known to work with the motherboard.

 

4core/8thread CPU + 250GB SSD + 1TB HDD:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1400 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $157.49 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | ASRock - AB350M Pro4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | $77.98 @ Newegg
Memory | GeIL - EVO POTENZA 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $93.99 @ Newegg
Storage | SK hynix - SL308 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $77.89 @ OutletPC
Storage | Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $48.44 @ OutletPC
Video Card | Asus - GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB Phoenix Video Card | $129.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Corsair - CXM 450W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $26.99 @ Newegg
Operating System | Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $89.89 @ OutletPC
Wireless Network Adapter | Asus - PCE-AC55BT PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter | $31.90 @ Amazon
Case Fan | Cooler Master - R4-S8R-20AK-GP 28.9 CFM 80mm Fan | $4.99 @ Newegg
Monitor | Asus - VS228T-P 21.5" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor | $89.99 @ SuperBiiz
Mouse | Redragon - Centrophorus M601 Wired Optical Mouse | $12.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $887.53
| Mail-in rebates | -$45.00
| Total | $842.53
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-06-26 04:04 EDT-0400 |

 

4core/8thread CPU + 120GB SSD + 3TB HDD:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1400 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $157.49 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | ASRock - AB350M Pro4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | $77.98 @ Newegg
Memory | GeIL - EVO POTENZA 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $93.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Kingston - A400 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $51.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Seagate - Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $89.89 @ OutletPC
Video Card | Asus - GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB Phoenix Video Card | $129.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Corsair - CXM 450W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $26.99 @ Newegg
Operating System | Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $89.89 @ OutletPC
Wireless Network Adapter | Asus - PCE-AC55BT PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter | $31.90 @ Amazon
Case Fan | Cooler Master - R4-S8R-20AK-GP 28.9 CFM 80mm Fan | $4.99 @ Newegg
Monitor | Asus - VS228T-P 21.5" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor | $89.99 @ SuperBiiz
Mouse | Redragon - Centrophorus M601 Wired Optical Mouse | $12.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $903.08
| Mail-in rebates | -$45.00
| Total | $858.08
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-06-26 04:12 EDT-0400 |

 

faster 4core/8thread CPU with better cooler + 120GB SSD + 2TB HDD:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1500X 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor | $176.99 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | ASRock - AB350M Pro4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | $77.98 @ Newegg
Memory | GeIL - EVO POTENZA 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $93.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Kingston - A400 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $51.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Seagate - Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $66.89 @ OutletPC
Video Card | Asus - GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB Phoenix Video Card | $129.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Corsair - CXM 450W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $26.99 @ Newegg
Operating System | Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $89.89 @ OutletPC
Wireless Network Adapter | Asus - PCE-AC55BT PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter | $31.90 @ Amazon
Case Fan | Cooler Master - R4-S8R-20AK-GP 28.9 CFM 80mm Fan | $4.99 @ Newegg
Monitor | Asus - VS228T-P 21.5" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor | $89.99 @ SuperBiiz
Mouse | Redragon - Centrophorus M601 Wired Optical Mouse | $12.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $899.58
| Mail-in rebates | -$45.00
| Total | $854.58
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-06-26 04:16 EDT-0400 |

u/LeoAtrox · 5 pointsr/xboxone
u/4g0t · 5 pointsr/HowToHack

So for my battery pack, it's a mycharge.com product. I just got literally the biggest one they have. I use the Broadcom adapter on the device to connect to the local wifi and a panda USB wifi dongle with an upgraded antenna. If you really want I'll troll through my amazon purchases and try to find it but Panda has good drivers and can monitor. The antenna should be on the "customers who bought this also bought this"


Edit:
Panda Wireless PAU06 300Mbps N USB Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JDVRCI0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_rjlCzbCSVWP98

u/chris21914 · 5 pointsr/AndroidTV

UGREEN USB 3.0 Hub Ethernet Adapter 10/100/1000 Gigabit Network Converter with USB 3.0 Hub 3 Ports for Nintendo Switch, Windows Surface Pro, MacBook Air/Retina, iMac Pro, Chromebook, PC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LLUEJFU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vpR4Cb67NFW5G

u/itsdandandan · 5 pointsr/PleX

You can hook it up via ethernet with something like this

http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Micro-B-Ethernet-Raspberry-AX88772A/dp/B00RM3KXAU

u/ItsNotDylan · 5 pointsr/xboxone

I personally own the Netgear Powerline 1200 series of powerline adapters.

It works better than a really bad Wifi connection. I have personally dealt with some packet loss but it's definitely something I've come to deal with. Since powerline adapters rely on the copper in your power outlets, so YMMV.

u/Buelldozer · 5 pointsr/Roku
u/triferatu · 5 pointsr/homelab

I purchased one of these for a project. Seemed to work well with the pi.

UCTRONICS IEEE 802.3af Micro USB... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDLUSE7?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

u/ChurnYourObsidian · 5 pointsr/raspberry_pi

UCTRONICS IEEE 802.3af Micro USB Active PoE Splitter Power Over Ethernet 48V to 5V 2.4A for Tablets, Dropcam or Raspberry Pi (48V to 5V 2.4A) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDLUSE7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_TzBQAbBD26FC3

u/plaidtheimpaler · 4 pointsr/homeowners

Oh sorry, I missed that photo! Yes, that is the hookup for left channel and right channel speakers. When hooking up, red is positive, black is negative. As others have said, you may have to use the “banana plug” hookups, but I can’t quite tell from the photo. Might just need regular speaker wire. It’s possible that there are more of these ports, but also seems likely that all the speakers could just be hooked into this input.

You’ll need an audio receiver to hook into it, as well as some sort of audio source, like a CD player, radio, turntable etc. You could also plug something like this Bluetooth adapter into the audio receiver input and stream audio to it from a mobile device. Would be especially handy if this setup is in an inconvenient spot.

EDIT to include link to Bluetooth adapter.

u/roger_niner_niner · 4 pointsr/diyaudio

The equalization and level on the phono inputs won't give desirable results.

I'd use one of the tape inputs with a Bluetooth adapter like this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016NUTG5K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3RXQDbJKV9ZQ1

If your tape inputs are already in use, add an rca switch like this so you can connect more than one device to the same input.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MRPATRW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gTXQDb4NKG0QT

There may be better versions of these devices out there. I just linked the first search results on Amazon to help provide clarity.

u/anglophoenix216 · 4 pointsr/Stadia

Even 2 gig ones, which is the theoretical limit!

u/sk9592 · 4 pointsr/AndroidTV

This is the popular one used with the Mi Box:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LLUEJFU/

If the USB port does not provide enough power, plug in one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QV5Q5HU/

u/felixmitchell · 4 pointsr/AndroidTV

I can confirm the Bluetooth version (Rii I8+ BT) DID NOT WORK. It would not pair with the Mibox. I'm using the only USB slot for the wifi version of that remote (Rii I8+ Wifi confirmed working). I ordered the item below for a combined ethernet with 3 additional USB ports. Also ordered a Gamesir GS3. Will report if that works.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LLUEJFU/ref=ya_st_dp_summary

u/ultranoobian · 4 pointsr/interestingasfuck
u/cryptospartan · 4 pointsr/homelab

You're right! I have it over ethernet with an adapter. I can find a link when I get home. Something about using Wi-Fi just didn't feel right.

Edit: This is the one that I'm using.

u/Reticent_Fly · 4 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

Apparently they work with normal Bluetooth adapters like this one.

Something to consider if you don't want to shell out for the official Xbox dongle and want wireless.

I bought the dongle + controller package on a heavily discounted sale last year but unfortunately the controller had issues within a couple weeks so I returned it.

This might be the way to go for me as well now. I just wish the controllers could match the durability of the old 360 ones.

u/GreenFox1505 · 4 pointsr/SteamController

Logitech's Dongle

Logitech's low latency gaming dongle

Most modern bluetooth Dongles

Most modern Wifi dongles

I am incredibly disappointed is the sheer size of the Steam Controller's dongle. It's huge compared to most modern counterparts. The best modern dongles are small enough to leave in laptop while on the go, but not the Steam Controller. The best devices are both Dongle and Bluetooth; the built in bluetooth dongle that is part of my computer is unarguably more a "compact form factor".

The Steam Controller's dongle not in any way a "compact form factor".

Edit: I would like to point out that I understand WHY it's large. But that doesn't mean it isn't "large". That's like trying to claim an industrial grade truck isn't huge because it carries so much. It's still huge, but it's huge for a reason and trying to claim it's "compact" would be just lying.

u/HamptonRoader · 4 pointsr/WindowsMR

Make sure your Bluetooth is up to the task. If it's not, the controllers will work, but lose tracking often and just give the impression it doesn't work well. Alot of us had to bite the bullet and buy one of microsoft's recommended bluetooth dongle, especially on older motherboards (e.g. few years old)

here one of many threads that will recommend a specific adapter
https://www.reddit.com/r/WindowsMR/comments/7k9dqp/best_bluetooth_adapter_for_mixed_reality/

here's what i'm successfully using (i overzealously preach how well it works)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VWEK4IG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/michrech · 4 pointsr/Ubiquiti

You don't need a PoE switch -- most of Ubiquiti's APs come with an injector, and if the one you end up with doesn't for some reason, gigabit injectors are readily available (and don't need to be UBNT branded).

​

The UAP-AC-PRO or UAP-nanoHD are probably the two you'll want to consider, especially if you plan on getting 3x3 wireless clients down the road (if you don't have any already). :)

u/fuzzydice_82 · 4 pointsr/de

ich hab die hier bestellt, zusammen mit diesen PoE Injektoren.
Ich find sie ganz gut für den Preis. Können eben das was ich wollte (PoE, Nachtsicht, FullHD, Motionsensor], und bei amazon hätt ich sie auch problemlos umtauschen können wenn ich sie nicht gut gefunden hätte. Du brauchst allerdings entweder ein DVR-System mit dem du die Cams koppeln kannst, oder einen Windowsrechner mit etwas Festplattenplatz auf dem die Software dazu läuft (ich hab nen kleinen Server mit diversen VMs im Keller, der übernimmt das bei mir) wenn du aufzeichnen willst - das Kameramodell hat keine internen Speichermöglichkeiten. Cloudintegration geht wohl auch, hab ich aber nicht aktiv.

Bonus: Obwohl Chinakram funken die Geräte scheinbar nicht nach hause. Mein Wireshark meldet nichts Verdächtiges.

u/ravioliisgood · 4 pointsr/msp

This is the one I used. Currently unavailable from Amazon but Monoprice might have it in their website.

Monoprice USB Extender over CAT5E or CAT6 Connection up to 150ft https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003L14ZTC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1BuPBb72WB7KB

u/LostVector · 4 pointsr/wyzecam

This one is working really well for me.

UCTRONICS IEEE 802.3af Micro USB Active PoE Splitter Power Over Ethernet 48V to 5V 2.4A for Tablets, Dropcam or Raspberry Pi (48V to 5V 2.4A) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDLUSE7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_zu0UAb40HEMQG

u/benegrunt · 4 pointsr/homeassistant

That's been possible for quite a while. Here ya go, 30 bucks for a pack of 4. They're actual 802.3af compliant pass-through splitters, not the ghetto "passive PoE" variety.
https://www.amazon.com/UCTRONICS-802-3af-Splitter-Ethernet-Raspberry/dp/B01MDLUSE7/

Probably even cheaper on Aliexpress, Banggood etc - this one's even a prime item.

u/CoreFour1996 · 4 pointsr/SBU

Why not just get one from Amazon?

You'll be able to pick it up in the library by tomorrow.

u/clupean · 3 pointsr/buildapc

drill tiny holes =! break walls
Ask a pro to do it for you, it's very clean looking.

Alt: if you really can't touch the walls, powerline adapter + KVM ethernet extender.

u/Skigazzi · 3 pointsr/buildapc

I'm a big fan. I bought these to connect two PCs that are right next to each other, but without a good way to run cables. (I built them without wifi since I thought cable run was easy, turns out there was a lot of crap in that wall)


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H74VKZU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


They are the newest and most expensive TP-link model, but I figured I would splurge on this set since this will be the one that 'pumps the juice into the system', so make if as powerful as possible. Future expansions will be cheaper models.


As for performance, it was a simple set up, literally hit a button, run to the other one, hit a button, never needed a reset since.


Ping is around 20 on speedtest and CS:GO matches, so Im having NO ping reduction, and speeds are nearly 100% of ISP.

u/beersykins · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

You might as well just buy a NIC for that price. What head end router do you have anyway?

https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-802-11AC-Wireless-AC3100-Adapter-PCE-AC88/dp/B01H9QMOMY

u/spiffiness · 3 pointsr/wifi

Yeah, I say return that shit, you got taken in by very misleading marketing.

A wireless router can't transmit data any faster than what the client it's talking to is capable of.

Most modern clients are only capable of the 867Mbps or 1300Mbps max 802.11ac PHY rates, which, after typical Wi-Fi overhead, means 500-700 Mbps max throughput, and that's on a clean channel with the client in the same room as the AP, and no other devices taking up any airtime. The max PHY rate you can get drops off dramatically with distance and interference, so if you put a wall or a floor/ceiling between your client and the AP, you'll get far less throughput.

I could go into painful technical detail about how shitty TP-Link's marketing claims are for that router, but unless you're really ready to nerd out about wireless modulation and coding schemes, let me just leave it at this: Your "red beast" isn't going to improve over the "550 wireless, 900 wired" performance of your existing rented router unless you have clients capable of one or more of the following unusual speed-boosting technologies:

  1. Support for 4 spatial streams. One ASUS PCIe WNIC for desktops supports this, but it's not common in laptops or tablets or phones because small devices don't have enough room for 4 separate antennas spaced out enough to be useful. Support for 4 spacial streams also adds power consumption (lessens battery life), increases thermal load (fans would have to run more, or throttle the CPU, GPU, or Wi-Fi more), and adds cost.
  2. Support for using nonstandard 1024-QAM modulation with 802.11ac. 1024-QAM is part of the brand-new, just-barely-started-shipping 802.11ax/"Wi-Fi 6" standard, but some vendors added nonstandard 1024-QAM support to their 802.11ac devices. Your "red beast" doesn't actually support 802.11ax, so this speed boost only works with client devices that support this weird nonstandard mode. As it turns out, that same ASUS PCE-AC88 I linked to above happens to be one of the few WNICs that supports this. It seems Broadcom added nonstandard 1024-QAM support to one or two of their highest-end 802.11ac chipsets a couple years ago, so there are a few Broadcom-based client devices or WNIC cards that support it. I'm not aware of whether any other chipset vendors support it, or whether the support is interoperable between vendors (since it hasn't been standardized by the IEEE and the Wi-Fi Alliance doesn't certify compatibility for it).
u/saibot76 · 3 pointsr/ADSB

This is currently just my mounting mock up. My internals consist of a pi, RTL-SDR, an LNA and a PoE -> Ethernet/Micro USB splitter (something like this: https://www.amazon.com/UCTRONICS-802-3af-Splitter-Ethernet-Raspberry/dp/B01MDLUSE7/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=PoE+splitter+raspberry+pi&qid=1569268346&s=gateway&sr=8-4 ) I'll be running some Outdoor rated/UV Stable/Direct Bury Cat 6 up to the housing for power & data once it's up at the top.

u/Kv603 · 3 pointsr/networking

Make them buy PoE splitters, the cheap kind with USB 5V output and no pass-through capability.

That way they have a "filter" for their devices, and can also charge their cell phones :)

u/nashkara · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

Rather than 3D print something, maybe consider something like this (http://imgur.com/gallery/tBaSB). It's what I'm planning to do. Mix it with a POE adapter (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDLUSE7) for power and it should be great.

u/Sedorox · 3 pointsr/sysadmin

This is going into /r/homelab territory, but I've gotten a few of these guys to power some Pis, gateways, etc, from my switch at home. They can be used to power anything that's USB.

At work, in the theater, there's some iPads mounted on the walls for the sound system (you can remotely control the faders and such). They have a small PoE to USB-A brick inside, which run back to the sound cabinet where a small trendnet PoE switch lives. keeps then charged, but also cycles some battery when you turn the rack off.

Another thing to keep in mind that as the switch is powering more, it's going to take more power, which means you may need a larger UPS.

u/cjalas · 3 pointsr/homelab
u/FairDevil666 · 3 pointsr/Ubiquiti
u/ShittyTech_Support · 3 pointsr/Ubiquiti
u/ParadoxScientist · 3 pointsr/techsupport

Here: https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Receiver-Transfer-Wireless-Keyboard/dp/B0775YF36R

Or just look up "USB Bluetooth adapter" on Amazon/eBay. I actually bought some from eBay (generic Chinese brands tho) for like $1-2 each a few years ago. They actually worked fine.

​

EDIT: There are also adapters that connect to an audio jack, but they require a separate cable for power, which will be a USB cable anyway, so you should just get a USB adapter like I mentioned above.

u/Hothabanero6 · 3 pointsr/Surface

Never seen a Surface like device with an Ethernet port. I doubt one exists. They are mobile devices so an Ethernet port is counter to it's primary function.

>absolute best (reliable & smallest) usb adapter for Ethernet?

Hard to say... reviews are scarce. There's this from 2013:
http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,2817,2415501,00.asp
Still a good choice and there are interesting options...
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Gigabit-Ethernet-Network-Adapter/dp/B0095EFXMC/. 476 reviews 4.5 of 5

This from 2016 ... but 10/100??? Not fastest.
http://www.wirelesshack.org/our-picks-for-best-usb-to-ethernet-adapter.html
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Ethernet-Network-Adapter/dp/B00ET4KHJ2/ 804 reviews 4.3 of 5


Amazon popularity contest and products I have had good luck with
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00BBD7NFU/ 807 reviews 4.2 of 5

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PC0H9IE/ref=psdc_13983791_t3_B0095EFXMC 584 reviews 4.7 of 5

https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Gigabit-Ethernet-Network-Adapter/dp/B00AQM8586/. 767 reviews 4.5 of 5


So maybe the Anker model however... would you want fries ports with that?

u/bachelorpartydude · 3 pointsr/raspberry_pi

I get that you need to be connected; but you're really better off using a wired connection. My pi zero running pi-hole uses this:


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ET4KHJ2/ref=psdcmw_13983791_t2_B00BBD7NFU

u/ProperNorf · 3 pointsr/nexusplayer

Keep it connected to your router much easier to setup and you can share media through different devices.
I store my media on NAS device and managing it through /r/PleX media server. Works extremely well and does all the transcoding.
The NP though is connected through [Ethernet Network Adapter] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ET4KHJ2/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and [4-Port USB 2.0 Hub] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BWF5U0M/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). just make sure its 2.0 usb dont know why but 3.0 wont work.

u/Onescorp · 3 pointsr/linuxhardware

This one works for me with no additional drivers, using Linux Mint Kernel 3.13.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JDVRCI0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/heebiejeebies_ferret · 3 pointsr/debian

This one's cheap and works great, no additional drivers required: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JDVRCI0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I think it might be 2.4 ghz-only, though

u/duepointe · 3 pointsr/AndroidTV

You need to get the usb ethernet adapater with an Asix 88179 chip. This supports wake up from suspend.
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Network-Adapter-Ethernet-1000Mbps/dp/B00LLUEJFU/

u/FlickFreak · 3 pointsr/AndroidTV

Anything with the ASIX AX88179 chipset should work fine.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M77HMU0/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MYTSN18/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AQM8586/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FFJ0RKE/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LLUEJFU/

All of the above should work with any Android based device. (ie. Shield TV, Mi Box or Fire TV)

u/nexus4strife · 3 pointsr/AndroidTV

Lack of updates, no ethernet (had to buy a USB one since the WiFi was pretty unreliable), glitchy video and sound, crashes and freezes randomly, and a few other reasons i can't think of ATM.

u/LightningProd12 · 3 pointsr/pihole

It'd work but that adapter has a lot of bad reviews on Amazon. I'd suggest a more expensive (but properly working) adapter like this if you want extra (powered) USB ports, this if you don't need full-size USB ports, or this if you want a HAT instead.

u/graywolf0026 · 3 pointsr/Warframe

I can solve that problem with this. ... If you're on an android, at least.

u/Denmarkian · 3 pointsr/pihole

As far as I can tell there are no spec differences between the Zero and the Zero W except for the WiFi on the W. The processor, RAM, and other features are the same.

If you're not going to use the wireless then I'd put the extra $5 toward the Ethernet adapter.

I've bought a couple of this OTG Ethernet adapter and I've been happy with them. I use one with a Pi0 as my Pi-Hole.

u/tylerrobb · 3 pointsr/KingOfTheHill

You should try out an ethernet over powerline alternative! https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Powerline-Extra-Outlet-PLP1200-100PAS/dp/B00S6DBGIS/

u/TheFamousDoodleberry · 3 pointsr/gaming

Have you checked out powerline at all?

u/Deemo13 · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Just grab one of those $10 ones on Amazon. I have one of those and it works great!

u/LemFliggity · 3 pointsr/RetroPie

I much prefer the Wii U Pro Controller - best all-around controller there is. I had phantom inputs with it in ES, so I disabled the bt stack and use this dongle instead. Fixed the problem. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VWEK4IG

u/dandu3 · 3 pointsr/buildapc

I'd try out this powerline kit. It's more reliable than Wifi, and better for gaming (and pretty much better overall)

Get the 3 port one if well, you need 3 ports

u/CEngelson · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

You should try powerline adapters. You won't get quite the same speed as a hard wired connection, but it is a whole lot better than wireless. I have a few in my house, and they work great!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Y3QPG1A/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_DtAuxbZT3CKJ4

u/Fire_Storm · 3 pointsr/homelab

good powerline adapters can be a much better option than wifi
https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-TL-PA8010P-Pass-Through-Powerline-1200Mbps/dp/B00Y3QPG1A

u/PathToEternity · 3 pointsr/techsupport

You might look into powerline adapters.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00Y3QPG1A/ref=s9_cdeal_hm_awbw_b50jE_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=mobile-hybrid-11&pf_rd_r=5W3F5WDSNYF2R0DYT3X0&pf_rd_t=30901&pf_rd_p=1429b8ba-e75d-571e-9b71-9f4989516af7&pf_rd_i=1194444

I have a pair of something similar at home. Poke around to see what would fit you best, but me and my roommate are both very happy with them.

u/IceDevilGray-Sama · 3 pointsr/smashbros

Powerline didnt really work for me but what did work was use MoCA adaptors. If you have coaxial in the room with your router and your switch, you can get ethernet to your switch through coax. They are a bit expensive but if powerline doesnt work this definitely should.

Two of these would work fine:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013J7OBUU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_AA8.BbJSV7HM0

u/planet_x69 · 3 pointsr/Fios
u/JrClocker · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Hardwire to an access point will always be better than a mesh system.

I was in a similar predicatment to you...3,500 sqft house on one florr.

Do you have cable TV jacks throughout the house? If you do, check out MoCA devices (I Use These). They have Ethernet on one side, and RF jack on the other side. You may have to change out splitters (I Use These) with ones for increased bandwidth. When you connect MoCA devices, you connect them on the output ports (not the input)...also, you have to make sure that you don't have any RF amplifiers in the data as they will not pass data in both directions.

u/BeenHadThat · 3 pointsr/diysound

Looks like one of the smsl models or something similar. There’s several micro stereo amplifiers out there these days that get pretty solid reviews!

I bought this for my dad to power some small Boston acoustics satellite speakers he found at a goodwill. Added a subwoofer and a Bluetooth receiver and he’s a happy camper.

SMSL A2 40Wx2 Audio Stereo... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D2X3HFT?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Bluetooth Audio Adapter for Music Streaming Sound System, esinkin W29-us Wireless Audio Adapter Works with Smart Phones and Tablets, Wireless Adapter for Speakers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016NUTG5K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_CLGyDbZRQTRYT

u/slimscsi · 3 pointsr/PleX

You can use your phone/tablet as the player and hook up a cheep Bluetooth receiver like this one. https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Adapter-Streaming-Wireless-Speakers/dp/B016NUTG5K

u/homeboi808 · 3 pointsr/hometheater
u/IcyKettle · 3 pointsr/sonos

Okay I'm reading you now. That's helpful. You gotta understand, from the way your post was worded, it sounded like you were wanting to move off of CCA as a whole-house audio solution and wondering if Sonos could fill that void.

It sounds like you simply need a way to get PC audio to the Play:5 Aux port wirelessly. Assuming you can't find a used CCA (honestly, I think you'll be able to find these online for a long time if you look in the right places), you could just use a bluetooth adapter. I probably would've gone that route before using a CCA, anyway, since it's OS and browser-agnostic. It'll route ALL computer audio to the Play:5, not just those sources that the CCA can handle.

Good luck.

u/ylerta · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Look into power line adapters paired with Ethernet adapter. I'm in a similar situation and this is my solution and it works perfectly. it's an expensive solution but you can use the power line adapter for PC's and other things in the basement. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01929ESG6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_eG39Bb73F41RT
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MYT481C?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

edit: also note this is not an invasive option since you just plug in the power line adapters, then plug one side into your router and one into the Ethernet adapter

u/TerrifiedCup · 3 pointsr/PS4

you should go wired for maximum speeds and the best connection, if your router is too far from your console you should check these out

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-PowerLINE-1000-Mbps-Gigabit/dp/B01929ESG6/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1486060443&sr=1-3&keywords=ethernet+plug+powerline

these things are great!

u/folterung · 3 pointsr/gaming

I bought these, they’ve been fantastic. Stable and fast.
I’m in a home, built in the last 12 years so relatively new electrical. Each adapter is plugged into a wall outlet alone.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01929ESG6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/ryao · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Get a Ubiquiti ER-X for routing and a used Zoneflex 7962 with a tplink poe injector for wifi:

https://m.newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=0XK-000W-00080
http://m.ebay.com/itm/Ruckus-ZoneFlex-7962-PoE-Access-Point-300-Mbps-Wi-Fi-/222336422560
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Ethernet-Injector-TL-PoE150S/dp/B001PS9E5I

That is $114.34 in total.

Those will be cheaper and work better than many of the combination units. Be sure to enable the smart queue on the ER-X so that your gaming pings remain low even if you are doing background downloads.

Setting up the ruckus unit will require resetting it before you can log into it. The reset is a bit cumbersome, but once you have done it and have set it up, you will love it. It's radio technology is years ahead of anything that you will encounter on the market (despite that being a 802.11n model). It shines when the radio waves are congested or you try going far from the AP. I have gotten a usable 2.4Ghz wifi signal on my cellphone from a ruckus 7982 at 300ft away with 2 walls obstructing the signal. :)

u/ragingcomputer · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

I'm a really big fan of Hikvision cameras. They feel really solid for the price and image quality is very good. I'm looking pretty hard at an Amcrest for my next cam. They're getting decent reviews for the price too.

If you do get a Hikvision, look closely at whether the seller is an authorized distributor. I've gotten a grey-market camera and it was ok, but for a few $ more you can also get support and english firmware updates.

For myself, I have one of these in my garage
DS-2CD2332-I-2.8MM

I have one of these on my front porch.
DS-2CD2142FWD-IS-2.8MM

I have one of these powering them both NETGEAR ProSAFE FS108PNA

An unfinished basement and vinyl siding makes mounting exterior cams more tolerable. http://imgur.com/a/qufyW

For setup / testing, I keep one of these around TP-LINK Gigabit PoE Injector TL-PoE150S

I've also installed many more cameras for friends and family.

One 16 cam setup used a dedicated Hikvision DVR unit, DS-7716NI-SP/16-2TB. It has the PoE switch built in. Setup was pretty quick and he's still really happy with it. Runtime on a 1500VA UPS is pretty respectable too.

  • 1x DS-2CD2132F-I-4MM
  • 10x DS-2CD2032-I-4MM
  • 1x DS-2CD2232-I5-4MM
  • 4x DS-2CD2112F-I-2.8MM

    I've got a buddy with 8x DS-2CD2032-I-4MM powered by a Passive 10/100 Power over Ethernet PoE Injector. He's having pretty good luck with that setup.

    At work we install mostly Axis cameras, but we're trying 24 Avigilon cameras for one section of student housing. They seem pretty well built too. This is a mostly positive post, the only cameras I HATE are made by Arecont Vision.

    If you haven't decided on software, I've got an opinion on that too.

    I'm running Milestone XProtect Go on a spare PC. It's free for up to 8 cameras, up to 5 days of retention, no charge for the clients. I am familiar since I manage an XProtect Enterprise install at work, but it can be a pain to set up at first.

    I've also played with Blue Iris and ZoneMinder. I think Blue Iris is the way to go for most folk.
u/i_got_jiggy_with_it · 3 pointsr/homedefense

Just for reference, here is an example PoE injector. Not being limited to batter opens up options if you can run the wire: https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PoE150S-Injector-Adapter-compliant/dp/B001PS9E5I

I don’t have any camera recommendations for you. But I did have a really shitty night camera for awhile. I ended up setting up an external IR light to make up for it: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G6K407Q

So that’s something to keep in mind if you are unhappy with whatever you get or want lighting from another source

u/needanacc0unt · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Most likely just the blue/white blue pair will be connected if you only have one phone line(it could be anything, but I think the blue pair is most common). You can replace the wall plates with a keystone plate and punch a cat 5 block onto the existing cable.

On the other end you will need to have something connected to it, but you could get creative if you don't want to have the router/modem in the closet near the existing box.

What I mean is you can plug the router into any of those ports in any room, and then terminate all of those lines in the box with an RJ45 plug and add a switch in the box.

But wait? There's no power in there! Precisely! You can get a TP link PoE injector (router side) and a Netgear switch with a "PD" port which will be powered by the 12v PoE voltage.

u/memebuster · 3 pointsr/amazonecho

This link is just an example. https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Ethernet-Injector-Adapter/dp/B001PS9E5I

For Echo I would consider making my own by cutting the end off of the Amazon power brick and splicing the ends into a network cable, RJ45 male end and RJ45 female end.

Edit: here's someone that made their own somewhat ghetto power injector. Same idea. http://tech.firstpost.com/news-analysis/how-to-make-a-power-over-ethernet-poe-adapter-19818.html

u/ImaginaryCheetah · 3 pointsr/homesecurity

your camera is POE. you cannot power it directly from your PC.

if your regular wifi router is not POE, it will also not power the camera.

you need a POE power injector, such as : https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PoE150S-Injector-Adapter-Compliant/dp/B001PS9E5I/

however, you describe lights coming on, so i'm assuming you've got it powered up....

​

most IP cameras will boot up into their default IP address.

this should be in the documentation included w/the cam.

whatever your cameras default IP is, your computer needs to be in the same domain.

if camera is 192.168.1.10 as default, your computer needs to be 192.168.1.X

you'll set your computer to that IP address, and then connect the network port through your POE injector and connect to the camera. you should see it then.

once you can log into the camera, you can set the IP address to whatever the rest of your network uses.

u/deathviahype · 3 pointsr/hardwareswap

this is $15 on Amazon and has pretty good reviews

u/flaming_m0e · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Use an Ethernet extension. Something like this: Monoprice USB Extender over CAT5E or CAT6 Connection up to 150ft https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003L14ZTC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_gAjgAbH532FEK

u/oblogic7 · 3 pointsr/zwave

Monoprice USB Extender over CAT5E or CAT6 Connection up to 150ft https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003L14ZTC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZxwcBb3X14395


Why do you restart HA so frequently?

u/impreza25sti · 3 pointsr/htpc
u/veritas8911 · 3 pointsr/24hoursupport

Well then it could definitely be your WIFI adapter. If the other desktop has a WIFI adapter you could try it. If not, you might try a different PCIe port for the WIFI. Although a lot of motherboards don't have extra PCIe ports. There are some cheap USB WIFI adapters so you might try one of those. I use this adapter. It's inexpensive and gets the job done.

u/Sertureeeee · 3 pointsr/buildapc

I'm looking at http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00416Q5KI/?tag=pcp0f-20 and http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0035GU3QM/?tag=pcp0f-20 it doesn't really say if it supports Windows 8 or not, it confuses me. It doesn't mention it in either of them but it lists all the other os.

u/schurdl · 3 pointsr/linux

Got me a TP-Link TL-WN822N and it's awesome. Working perfektly under Arch and great connection stability and speed.

u/greensparklers · 3 pointsr/digitalnomad

There are devices that will convert Wifi to an ethernet connection. You could probably get something like this: http://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6

You could also tether a cell phone to a laptop and bridge your connection over the laptop's ethernet port. You may also be able to bridge wifi over the ethernet port as well, this will probably vary from network to network.

u/Remo_253 · 3 pointsr/htpc

You can use a simple ethernet to WiFi adapter like either of these from IoGear:

Ethernet to Wi-Fi N Adapter for Home or Office, GWU627

Ethernet-2-WiFi Universal Wireless Adapter, GWU637

u/jcoffi · 3 pointsr/Hue

Sure! You'll need a wireless bridge. Something like this .

u/buzzkill37 · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Cheapest boards with wifi relevant to you start at around £170 pounds with this https://www.amazon.co.uk/GIGABYTE-Aorus-Socket-S-ATA-Gaming-x/dp/B07CQFKVMK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542729049&sr=8-3&keywords=gaming%2B5%2Bwifi&th=1

Not a massive fan of Gigabyte either. If I wear you, I'd just buy a cheap wifi card like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-LINK-TL-WN881ND-Wireless-Express-Antennas/dp/B006BSPTAQ/ref=sr_1_5?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1542729140&sr=1-5&keywords=pci+wifi

Wifi is treated like a luxury on the boards, you'd be paying for it and the dozens of overkill features on a high end board if you were to purchase one. MSI have a few good to great x370 boards for slightly cheaper than that ASUS one I linked earlier too

u/BSamuelC · 3 pointsr/buildapc

[This one here] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00OT586RQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_zlFpzb75QQPCP) works very well for me. It allows me to get the same speed as wired and no drops in connection.

Loving it so far as I really had no room to use a wire and this fixed all the issues of having my router really far away.

I also have [this] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Computers-Accessories/TP-LINK-WN881ND-300Mbps-Wireless-Express-Adapter/B006BSPTAQ/ref=sr_1_10?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1499445732&sr=1-10&keywords=wireless+adapter) in the family computer which works just as good and I couldn't tell the difference, but the software was annoying and the USB one was extremely simple and convenient because you can use it on any PC.

u/femmefatale007 · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

TP-LINK TL-WN881ND 300Mbps... https://www.amazon.de/dp/B006BSPTAQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


That's what I got for myself, its really easy to install (honestly, my Bf had to videocall me to tell me how to install a hard drive and I managed this alone). I am very happy with it, I have a constant connection and a good speed as well.

u/Eradiere · 3 pointsr/buildapc

You don't need to fill it just for the sake of it.

If you really want to, you could get a wireless PCI WIFI Card.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Computers-Accessories/TP-LINK-WN881ND-300Mbps-Wireless-Express-Adapter/B006BSPTAQ

Just remember to install the drivers

u/Fallen_Outcast · 3 pointsr/saudiarabia

you can use something like this instead. I remember finding it in jarir https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Ethernet-Network-Adapter/dp/B00ET4KHJ2

http://www.jarir.com/catalogsearch/result/?order=priority&dir=asc&q=usb+to+ethernet

Might be cheaper to repair it I have no idea

u/hitideblastoise · 3 pointsr/techsupport

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ET4KHJ2/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_3Rn9tb1XT9ZPK

What about this? It's USB to Ethernet adapter.

u/QaThrower · 3 pointsr/SuggestALaptop

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Ethernet-Network-Adapter/dp/B00ET4KHJ2

This is better than looking for something that doesn't exist

u/mishugashu · 3 pointsr/Steam

http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Ethernet-Network-Adapter/dp/B00ET4KHJ2

I'm a dick because you don't know technology? You are physically able to do pretty much anything. There's a difference between "can't" and "won't".

Dick.

u/rtechie1 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

What kind of router do you have (name and brand)?

Your router probably doesn't support PoE. In that case, you will need to use an PoE injector for the camera. If you need to support multiple PoE devices, get a PoE switch.

u/sivartk · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I think you are a little confused. PoE = Power over Ethernet (which by definition requires an Ethernet cable). Maybe tell us what equipment (Brand / Model) you have and what you are trying to accomplish and then we can help you.

I can try and read between the lines and say that you have a PoE Access Point and want to use it in the garage as a repeater instead of an access point (since you can't get a ethernet cable to it). You could still power it by PoE with an PoE injector in the garage for power only. You will just have to buy an injector that uses the same PoE standard as your device.

u/Ucla_The_Mok · 2 pointsr/techsupportmacgyver

No, you wouldn't.

All you would need is a laptop or desktop with a PoE Ethernet port.

Since that's highly unlikely, you could buy a PoE injector for under $20-

https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PoE150S-Injector-Adapter-compliant/dp/B001PS9E5I

u/rageaccount373733 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I got you. I have a similar setup. So here’s what you need.


Wilson Electronics Wideband Directional Antenna 700-2700 MHz, 50 Ohm (314411) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J14YEHQ/

Buy two of these. Place on a pole as high as you can get it. Mount them 45° and -45°. That’s how LTE is polarized.

Example: https://www.solwise.co.uk/images/images3g/4g-ren6702709-lpda-5.png


Heavy Duty Weather Proof Multi... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4FSKZM

Put the M1 in this on the pole too.

Use this to send power up the Outdoor cat6 cable:


TP-LINK TL-PoE150S PoE Injector Adapter, IEEE 802.3af Compliant, up to 100 Meters (325 Feet) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PS9E5I/

And this to pull the power out of the Cat6


ANVISION Gigabit PoE Splitter,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PW9FJNT

Then convert the mini to USB C:


ARKTEK USB-C Adapter, USB Type C (Male) to Micro USB (Female) Syncing Data Transfer and Charging Converter for Chromebook Galaxy S10 Note 9, Pixel 3 and More (Black/White, Pack of 4) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I0ZAJXO/

Ok.

That’ll get you where you want. Don’t get a booster or anything else. It’ll make your signal slower.

Put the whole thing on the pole because if you leave it inside you’ll get a lot of signal loss along those long cables.

———

Now the M1 is a 4x4 MIMO which claims it can get you gigabit speeds. But once you plug in the external antennas you’ll get 2x2 MIMO. the only way to solve this is a bit hacky.

You’ll need this:

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F183651187710

(This isn’t me but it’s the only guy I’ve seen selling these wires)

Then you’ll need two of these:

weBoost Outdoor Directional Yagi Antenna with N Female Connector 301111 for 700/800/900 MHz Band https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006H4FVM/

These will be you MAIN antennas. While the other covered ones will be your additional.

To explain. LTE towers send out 45° 800mhz, -45° 800mhz, 45° 2700 MHz, and -45° 2700 MHz You need an antenna for each. This will get you the fastest speed and best reliability. But this is hacky. I haven’t done this, YET. I’ve just planned it all out. I’m using a LB1211 with two covered yagis. I’ve gotten up to 70mbps with just that 2x2 setup (in a valley).

I plan on getting an M1 with 4 antennas soon, but right now my pole situation sucks. I need to figure out a better solution first. Then I’ll be comfortable spending that much more money. But just getting those two covered yagis and putting you M1 up until the pole, you’ll get a much better issue

u/r3ddux · 2 pointsr/homeassistant

The camera is connected to this PoE injector. The injector itself is connected to this repeater. It has a ethernet port that can be used to either connect the repeater via cable or to "translate the wifi to ethernet". The repeater is connected to my Unifi ap. Thats it.

I just don't wanted a normal wifi camera for security reasons. Also it wasn't possible for me to run a network cable to the camera itself. That's why I use this "complicated" method.

Edit: here is a really crappy picture I drawed on mobile :D

u/gusgizmo · 2 pointsr/networking

VDSL (aka extended reach ethernet) would be the most robust as you don't have midspan unit. I've had great luck with the startech units, these look like carbon copies of those units for $100 less--

https://www.amazon.com/Tupavco-Ethernet-Extender-Kit-Repeater-VDSL/dp/B01BOD8C9W/

Otherwise, PoE powered switch/repeater midspan sounds like the ticket. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Extender-Gigabit-IEEE802-3af-Security-Splitter/dp/B07FMNHYP8

And an injector:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PoE150S-Injector-Adapter-Compliant/dp/B001PS9E5I

Having something that needs an outlet to plug into halfway just feels half baked. 398 feet I'd roll the dice on forcing 10/100 first to see if it works. I've had gigabit work over longer.

u/binarycow · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking
u/pickled_monkey · 2 pointsr/homelab

Ubiquiti EdgeRouter POE

or any OpenWrt-compatible router and a couple of POE Injectors

u/Flying_Spaghetti_ · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

This is what you want $15 and you are good to go. That is unless you have faster than 150mbps internet.

u/xc0mr4de · 2 pointsr/buildapc

PCIE version and USB version cuz I was just wondering if generally pcie is faster better than usb one or the other way around.

u/astrobyzantium · 2 pointsr/Philippines

Agreeing with buying it all in one go.

The parts used above is very similar to my build, but I bought the parts at EasyPC North Avenue, except for the SSD and wireless network card which I bought at Octagon SM North EDSA, and the monitor which I bought at PC Express Makati Cinema Square. Take note that Dynaquest Philippines doesn't include the 12% VAT amount in the item's display price.

Type | Item | Price at Purchase
---------|----------|----------
CPU | [Intel Pentium G4560 3.5Ghz Kabylake] (https://tipidpc.com/viewitem.php?iid=40997798) | ₱ 2995.00
Motherboard | [MSI B250M Pro VDH] (https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/B250M-PRO-VDH.html#productFeature-section) | ₱ 4400.00
Memory | [Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 8GB 2400 DDR4 1x8GB Red] (https://tipidpc.com/viewitem.php?iid=40996584) | ₱ 3350.00
Storage (SSD) | [WD Green PC SSD 240 GB] (https://www.wdc.com/products/solid-state-drives/wd-green-ssd.html#WDS240G1G0A) | ₱ 4000.00
Storage (HDD) | [Western Digital 1TB Caviar Blue , SATA III] (https://tipidpc.com/viewitem.php?iid=40994388) | ₱ 2400.00
Video Card | [Zotac GTX1050Ti Mini Single Fan 4gb-128bit DDR5] (https://tipidpc.com/viewitem.php?iid=40998316) | ₱ 7150.00
Case | [EasyPC Rakk Phantom X White-Black] (https://tipidpc.com/viewitem.php?iid=40993820) | ₱ 650.00
Power Supply | [Corsair VS450 APFC, 450watts] (https://tipidpc.com/viewitem.php?iid=40997483) | ₱ 1650.00
Monitor | [Philips 227E7QDSB/71 21.5 inches LED IPS] (http://www.philips.com.ph/c-p/227E7QDSB_71/lcd-monitor/specifications) | ₱ 6100.00
Keyboard and Mouse combo | [Rapoo NX1700 Optical Mouse and Spill Resistant Keyboard] (https://tipidpc.com/viewitem.php?iid=40994811) | ₱ 370.00
Wireless Network Card | [TP-Link N150 Wireless PCI-Express Adapter (TL-WN781ND)] (https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-PCI-Express-Adapter-TL-WN781ND/dp/B0036AFAEW/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1496570183&sr=1-1&keywords=WN781ND) | ₱ 650.00
Assembly fee | Assembly fee | ₱ 100.00
| TOTAL: | ₱ 33815.00

You can try out some builds using pcpartpicker.com, however, prices there don't reflect actual prices in the Philippines. My build can be seen here: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/tqhR9W

u/SloppyCandy · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Buy a new wireless card. Here is a cheap one:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-PCI-Express-Adapter-TL-WN781ND/dp/B0036AFAEW/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_lp_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ZG31YN21PDS12QZSKX6M
Here is a nicer one (may be unnecessary):
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Express-Adapter-TL-WDN4800/dp/B007GMPZ0A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1498623987&sr=8-2&keywords=pcie+wireless


New GPU will be the biggest improvement. 1050 Ti is a quick and easy upgrade generally ($150).

SSD for OS wouldn't hurt.

Up to 16G ram if you are feeling like a boss.

u/billyc74 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

yo, you don't need a Z97 chipset motherboard. this H81 chipset will perform exactly the same and is £30 less.

Also, you want an internal PCIe wifi adapter, 1. because it's faster, 2. you're not using up one of your USB ports. this one will do the trick.

u/Simmo1404 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

A card like this would fit in the small white slot to the left (below) the x16 slot, but I don't know what the difference this has on WiFi cards. The amazon card advertises 150Mbit though. This would allow you to have both GPU and WiFi cards simultaneously.

Edit: Though I want to reiterate that the 2500 is far more expensive than the ever-so-slightly worse 2400, and the same price as the better 3450. Get one of these two.

u/tartantangents · 2 pointsr/hackintosh

Chances are, any USB WiFi adapter you get will have a MediaTek (formerly Ralink) or Realtek chipset. Both of these companies publish OS X drivers, which work under Yosemite. Before you buy an adapter, check what chipset it has at [WikiDevi](http://www.wikidevi.com] and cross-reference with the drivers from MediaTek or Realtek's site.

FYI, USB WiFi adapters won't integrate with OS X's network picker, so you'll have to load a utility every time your computer boots in order to connect. Personally, that's enough to push me towards a PCIe card. I use an $15 TP-Link WN881ND that works with just a small modification to IONetworkingFamily. The commonly recommended card is the $36 TP-Link WDN4800, which is plug and play without any modifications.

u/cowboybilocas · 2 pointsr/battlestations

This one. It's pretty much the cheapest thing TP-LINK makes but I really only need internet access for now (no data transfer within home network) and this was enough for by internet speed and cheaper than a long cable/powerline solution.

u/furgar · 2 pointsr/techsupport

This one has a really good rating for a PCI card

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B0055TNERM/ref=aw_1st_sims_1?pi=SY115

This one has a better rating but is PCI Express

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B0036AFAEW/ref=aw_1st_sims_2?pi=SY115

My recommendations are based off of the reviews on amazon and not from personal experience. They are also both not expensive.

u/Kirby6365 · 2 pointsr/homeassistant

Definitely don't try just add random amounts of cat5/6 to your antenna. That won't work.

Here's a monoprice USB extender. Not sure how good it is, but it's pretty cheap:
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Extender-CAT5E-Connection-150ft/dp/B003L14ZTC

Do you actually have a separate Ethernet jack you can use for this? Also, not sure if wyzesense supports multiple instances of the device at once?

u/skylartaylor · 2 pointsr/homeassistant

I've not tried it personally, but a person used ser2net & socat to share a USB device (in their case a z wave hub) over IP to their home assistant instance. They wrote an article about it here:

https://blog.paul-steele.com/tech/2018/12/25/homeassistant-kubernetes-zwave-oh-my.html

Of course, this requires another device which may be more of a pain than a USB extender.

There are also USB over Ethernet adapter which would let you run much further: https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Extender-CAT5E-Connection-150ft/dp/B003L14ZTC

u/dysfunkshun · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Perfectly! Put an RJ45 on each end, then there's a transmitter and receiver. I plug one end into my nvidia shield or vivopc, other end by the TV with wireless dongle and presto! This is the ones I use, I have 2 and haven't had a problem with them at all:

Monoprice USB Extender over CAT5E or CAT6 Connection up to 150ft https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003L14ZTC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_uWKuxbTAWFAYG

u/heroin1994 · 2 pointsr/CableManagement

Im talking about these

Yeah my mistake, its not adapter, its an extender

u/chronop · 2 pointsr/techsupport

The USB standard doesn't support enough cable length to make this work, but Ethernet definitely does. You could run Ethernet drops (Cat6 preferred) between the locations, and then use a set of USB over Ethernet adapters to make the connections, like this

This is probably your best option, you do have others such as using your network to create RTMP streams or using a WiFi bridge with the adapters I mentioned but you will get lower latency and better performance if you can use Ethernet.

u/Arm-the-homeless · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Eh, not really.

This device requires ethernet, right?

http://www.amazon.com/Portta-PET30DP-10-Inch-Extender-Cables/dp/B003LZA95W/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1421190159&sr=8-3&keywords=hdmi+over+cat6&pebp=1421190255020&peasin=B003LZA95W#productDetails

Most modern graphics cards have at least 2 outputs, and there are cheap converters between dvi>hdmi or displayport>hdmi

Oh, for the USB...
http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Extender-CAT5E-Connection-150ft/dp/B003L14ZTC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421190187&sr=8-1&keywords=usb+over+cat6&pebp=1421190545439&peasin=B003L14ZTC

Use a logitech wireless kb/mouse combo with the unified receiver and that takes care of kb/mouse. You could use a cheap hub if you wanted to use a game controller. Signal degradation (or rather ACK timeouts) only really cause problems when you're trying to transmit data like with an external HD, for simple HID you'd be surprised how long of a cable you can use.

If you've got to run ethernet to the TV, it's no more trouble to run 3 wires instead of 1. If you're doing it the right way instead of the halfassed way, it's still going to require cutting a hole in drywall to hide the wires. Cat5e/Cat6 cable is cheap as dirt anyway. No lag from streaming and this is the same price or cheaper.

I guess if you wanted to do this with multiple screens in different rooms it might make sense, but otherwise I don't see much point.

u/LittleHelperRobot · 2 pointsr/htpc

Non-mobile: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003L14ZTC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1426986198&sr=8-1&keywords=usb+ethernet+extender&pi=AC_SX200_QL40

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

u/throwaway_for_keeps · 2 pointsr/techtheatre

Would something like this work in conjunction with a VGA cable?

We already have Ethernet cable and vga cable, and it would seem we'd still have to extend a proper KVM box somehow.

u/LoganRan · 2 pointsr/htpc

I just purchased some of these to do the same thing in my master bedroom and the living room. So going to my tv is 1 long HDMI cable (about 50ft) and a Cat 5e cable. So far they are working well. Also I did buy that exact same USB Hub for the TV end of the connection.

USB can go 15m from what i remember.

https://amzn.com/B003L14ZTC

u/TheNASAguy · 2 pointsr/razer

This should work just fine for you but you could also get This as an alternative.

u/jerkstore4 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Yes, while most every motherboad has wired networking, the majority of motherboards don't have built in wifi.

You can either get a USB wireless network adapter or a PCI/PCIe one. If you stick with the GA-78LMT-USB3 you'll probably want an external one as the PCIe 1x slot will be covered by the video card and the conventional PCI slot will be right up on it.

There are a wide range of USB WiFi adapters from generic ones under $10 to some very expensive ones. Performance doesn't necessarily correlate with price. If you walk into a store like WalMart you can expect to pay $20 for their least expensive ones.

Most USB WiFi adapters are are in the form of small USB thumb drives. Sometimes it's worth it to buy a larger adapter with a more substantial antenna though.


As a side note, the GA-78LMT-USB3 is a good motherboard but if you planned on overclocking your 8 core, you may want to consider some of the higher end boards. It also lacks SATA III so you won't get the top performance out of an SSD if you add one. It's still a solid board and I've used it in a number of builds.

u/jcolts23 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

How fast is your internet? If no more than 150Mb/s, i'll suggest the TL-WN722N. Which i use on my gaming desktop PC. I've never had any problems connecting to my wifi. Also, It's cheaper than the one you have listed, only 13.35USD or 10.52 in your foreign money. But fear not, if your internet speed is indeed faster than 150Mb/s, you could always go with it's bigger brother the TL-WN822N. Which can push out 300Mb/s and costs 18.80USD or 14.66€

u/blurryleg · 2 pointsr/buildapc

This Might work well instead of running wires.

I personally have this that I use and it works great through 4 walls (router is in a closet) and across a rather large sized house.

u/em-bomb · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

pretty good but get a different network adapter and id personally recommended these changes

Network adapter: http://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-Link-TL-WN822N-300MBPS-Wireless-Adapter/dp/B00416Q5KI/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1419014423&sr=1-2&keywords=wifi+adapter

PSU :http://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-Builder-Series-Modular-Certified/dp/B00ALYOTTI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419014385&sr=8-1&keywords=PSU

if you play rome 2 or other strategy sims that proc isnt the greatest, the gpu will outshine the cpu in certain games giving huge fps spikes from like 30 one moment to 60 the next

of course this is only select few games anything else is flawless bf4,skyrim etc

u/tangochicken · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I recently (Like a week ago) purchased this: http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN822N-Wireless-External-Antennas/dp/B00416Q5KI

Has worked fantastically so far getting a full 5 bars instead of the sketchy 2-3 I was getting with my old one.

u/squidboots · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I have tried lots of cards and have never found one I have been happy with. It's either the hardware is weak or the drivers are terrible.

The only wireless solution I've found that has worked well for me is this little guy right here. Drivers are simple and solid, it's high gain so it picks up very weak signal (ours picks up a router that is behind two cinder block walls), and it just works.

u/Diox788 · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

I've used something like this for a while and I love it.

You could also buy powerline ethernet adapters, but your house needs decent wiring for those to work.

u/bilago · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

How far is this machine from the wireless router? If the distance isn't too far you can get away with using a USB wifi adapter.

Here is a good example TP-LINK TL-WN722N

u/misticshadow · 2 pointsr/buildapc

This is the best WiFi dongle you are ever going to have. I have used it in extremely congested WiFi traffic scenarios and this bad boy works amazingly. Only downside, it does not have 5ghz but I have never felt the need to switch because it works so well. Also it's portable unlike a lot of solutions people are posting requiring plugging it into the mother board. And it doesn't hurt that it is very reasonably priced.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00416Q5KI/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1481466990&sr=8-3&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=tp+link+wifi+adapter&dpPl=1&dpID=31bm1O6%2B7GL&ref=plSrch

u/linuxfromsource · 2 pointsr/linuxquestions

It's not a bad investment to have a portable wireless device around that is reliable with Linux for problems like this. It would give you a temporary workaround while you install the needed updates. Plus, they're fairly cheap and you can use them anywhere to install Linux on other problem devices. Something that uses the ath9k driver is almost always a solid bet.

I have one of these, and it is really fast: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00416Q5KI/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I have had that exact wireless card in a netbook I used to own. I have gotten brcmsmac to work before in Gentoo and other distros with it, but it was always unreliable. The wl driver works MUCH BETTER with this particular wireless device.

I found a good description of what might help you in this thread. http://ubuntuforums.org/showthread.php?t=1889170&p=11502676#post11502676

Blacklisting all the conflicting modules should help.

u/zorinlynx · 2 pointsr/Hue

Something like this might do the trick:

https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468418411&sr=8-2&keywords=wi-fi+to+ethernet+adapter

It allows you to connect a device that only has an ethernet port to WiFi. Then you can join your Hue bridge to the campus wifi and your other devices on the campus wifi should be able to access it.

Of course, nothing is guaranteed, but Amazon has a fairly generous return policy so you shouldn't be screwed if it doesn't work.

u/butt_hurt_bernie · 2 pointsr/Hue

Oh man, that's definitely not the best way to go but I do know how to do it. In fact, I can't even guarantee it will because I've technically never tried it this way (although once I did something similar to make Chromecast work in a hotel.) First, you have to realize that just plugging into that adapter isn't going to work because it's configured to be looking for an IP address instead of assigning one. So, the first thing you need to go is Google "Internet connection sharing for Windows 10." Look at the instructions for turning your computer into a hotspot because that's what you're doing. The computer is essentially turning itself into a router. Wifi adapter gets an IP address and acts as a gateway. It's really not that complicated but you do have to configure it properly. You could also take an old router and flash it with DD-WRT and turn it into a wireless bridge. Otherwise, the computer has to be on 24/7 with a connection. I'll be around if you have questions.

*if you aren't networking savvy, you could save a lot of time buying a cheap wireless network bridge instead of making one. It looks like they range for 20 to 100 bucks on Amazon. The bridge connects to Wifi and "bridges" that connection to an Ethernet port. Here's an example -https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-Smart-Dual-Band-Extender-EW-7438AC/dp/B015AMYCMO/ref=sr_1_17?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1494275684&sr=1-17&keywords=Wireless+bridge

Or one of these - https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494277810&sr=8-1&keywords=ethernet+to+wifi+adapter

u/empirebuilder1 · 2 pointsr/talesfromtechsupport
u/phthzzphth · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Oops. I was looking at the wrong manual. Sorry! I still can't find anything on the repeater feature.
Worst case, you can use something like this to connect to your cellular device's wireless network and then plug it into the WAN/Internet port on the D-Link.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UAKCS6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gptwzb55QP4WZ

u/dcoulson · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Should be able to get this thing to join your wifi network from the hotspot and hand off a wired interface to the MoCA gear. Is the bluray player wifi only? Seems like ti would be easier to just connect it with a cable to the other end of the MoCA setup.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UAKCS6

u/oldeastvan · 2 pointsr/OculusQuest

After messing around with bridging and everything I could not make a setup like this work. I wound up using THIS to receive wifi and send to via ethernet to the router WAN port.

u/evillopes · 2 pointsr/linux4noobs

You may have a lot of trouble making that wireless work.

Does this machine have ethernet? If so you could use something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UAKCS6

u/sys-throwaway2020 · 2 pointsr/sysadmin

Could always use an ethernet to wireless adapter like this https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6

​

It's not the prettiest but it won't involve any drilling.

u/doc_willis · 2 pointsr/linux4noobs

No idea on that, never owned a beaglebone. I would think they would work, but there may be some differences.


At least the usb dongles for the pi are decently cheap. And it is always handy to have a known 'linux compatible' dongle - for getting problematic built in wifi drivers working on some laptops.

Since it has an actual network port, you could use one of those Network -> wifi 'dongles' like..

https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6

I have used those in the past for hooking up Non-wifi enabled devices to the wifi.

but that is a little overkill i think.

u/macfound32 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

You can connect an ethernet to wifi adapter to the box for wireless access.

An example:

[IOGEAR Universal Ethernet](https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6)

u/ase1313 · 2 pointsr/4GCommunity

I got the same one from Amazon for $12 cheaper than what the 4GCommunity offers on their website.

u/Rennie07 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I've got a Tplink PCIE card that I've had no real problems with and I only paid about £15 for it. Just make sure you check the specs before you buy, and stick to pci cards. I've heard USB adapters are generally worse.

Edit: I believe this is the one I have. I get about 60mbps on it (150 over cable).

Edit 2: also might be worth checking if the WiFi is dual band. Most cases the 5 channel will be less crowded than 2.4, so getting a more expensive card with dual channel may be worth while for you.

u/OolonCaluphid · 2 pointsr/buildapcforme

Tp link WiFi pcie card for £12 on amazon.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B006BSPTAQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_ePw8BbVAHC6TK

Edit: If you just need to connect to a router/network via cable, your motherbaord already has gigabit ethernet on board. You just need a Cat 5e or Cat 6 cable with RJ45 connectors (completely standard network cable basically) to hook it up.

u/SouthDesigner · 2 pointsr/buildapc

It was a PCIe card - heres a link to the exact one https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B006BSPTAQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 . I've used it heavily for about 2 weeks now, And it's giving me solid performance so far.

u/Scellow · 2 pointsr/hackintosh

I recently bought this one, works out of the box on OSX El Capitain, it's not a motherboard, but it fits fine in my mini-atx motherboard

http://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B006BSPTAQ?keywords=wifi&qid=1450060485&ref_=nav_ya_signin&sr=8-5

u/Vanderdecken · 2 pointsr/buildapc

That doesn't have built-in WiFi but it does have two PCI-E x1 slots (top left, labeled PCIEX1_1 and PCIEX1_2 sideways), which I'm guessing you're not already using as you didn't know what they were. Buy something like this, add it in the slot as instructed, install the drivers, connect to your AirPort network.

u/Bunniescanfly2 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

No it doesnt. You just need to get like this!
Plus the mobos with wi fi in them are usually more expensive. An adapter wont brake the bank!

u/distractionfactory · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

As ePaperWeight mentioned, your shopping list would have a lot to do with what you plan on doing with it.

Keep in mind that the Pi Zero is very cheap partly because it does not have nearly as many ports as a full size Pi. It also has a less capable CPU than a full Pi 3. That being said, it's still impressive that its CPU and RAM are in line with older Pis that were used in all sorts of projects.

The lack of ports means that if you want to connect to USB, HDMI, Ethernet, or Wifi you will need adapters.

For the bare minimum for getting started I would suggest the items included in this kit (not necessarily suggesting the kit itself, these are all standard parts):
https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Zero-Starter-Kit/dp/B01N3XNPAM/ref=sr_1_1

u/techbeast34 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

See if you can bend it back into position, but if you can't, look into getting an ethernet to USB adapter like this one

u/Dr_Octagonapus · 2 pointsr/techsupport

It could be a faulty NIC card. If you have 10$ to spare, you can buy one of these to test it. It's a ethernet to USB converter that runs on a virtual NIC card. If that works, then it's probably your NIC card.

u/dragonfangxl · 2 pointsr/buildapc

So you need an ethernet to usb adapter? Something like this?

Or are you talking about a wifi dongle you can plug into the usb port and connect wirelessly? Maybe something like this?

u/OgdruJahad · 2 pointsr/techsupport

To make sure the network card itself isn't the issue I suggest buying a USB to LAN adapter like this one. Even if it turns your Network card is ok, its a good idea to have one around in case the network card does die.

u/josh-dmww · 2 pointsr/pihole

I have one of these laying around, would it be good?

I have a spare PC, but I don't feel like keeping it on all the time! Space is an issue too, something small like a Raspberry would be nice!

u/Bseagully · 2 pointsr/uiowa

I've got mine working.

Order this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ET4KHJ2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C452XFO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And if you don't have it, any ethernet cable.

Plug in the power cable to the female MicroUSB port on the splitter. Plug the microusb cable part of the splitter into the Chromecast. Plug the Ethernet to USB converter into the USb port on the splitter. Plug in both sides of the ethernet cable. Give it a minute. It should find the connection.

I've got mine working in Burge right now.

u/NeedaTryHarder · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I bought an Asus PCIE for $95~. It was great, but something popped in there and now it's making an annoying noise. I couldn't ignore or tune out the noise so I decided to buy a cheap USB one. I honestly don't see a difference..

u/Rethread · 2 pointsr/linuxmint

It should be noted that Wifi works well on Linux Kernel 5.1.16 following the instruction given on the Killer support site.

"Here's some good news! I updated my XPS 15 7590 to the latest kernel and firmware packages (linux 5.2.2.arch1-1 and linux-firmware 20190717.bf13a71-1), and the Killer AX1650 worked without any modifications! No need to remove firmware files or pull in iwlwifi backports. So, with this kernel and firmware combination, Killer AX1650 should work out of the box on a fresh install of Arch Linux." - 2019-07-24

The bad news is that the Linux Mint default kernel version is currently 4.15.0-58-generic and the above solution is specifically for Arch Linux - which can get extremely technical. Better news is that it will likely be incorporated into Linux Mint fairly soon as WiFi 6 becomes the new standard for hi-speed WiFi.

EDIT: USB WiFi for $15 and be up and running. This is what I would do for now.

u/reverendj1 · 2 pointsr/linuxquestions

I'm not sure why you are getting downvoted. Seriously, for the $8-15 it costs for a WiFi adapter, @swervelord just buy one that's supported. This is not a good road to go down. It will never "just work", it won't perform great in the best scenario (probably a few Mbps), and will always be aggravating. And you'll have to do it all over again every time you reinstall/change distros. As someone who's used Linux for 15+ years, is a professional Linux sysadmin on the server and desktop for 10+ years, just don't waste your time with unsupported wifi cards.

u/oxtoacart · 2 pointsr/headphones

https://imgur.com/gallery/P4cFs

I’m happy with the quality of the aluminum case.

I had to get a high gain wifi adapter because my bedroom is far from my access points. An older adapter is still on there because I haven’t taken time to reconfigure the OS to work without it.

The NX4 gets its data via USB and draws power via a separate USB port. Since it is battery powered, I can actually keep it topped up off the Pi, although it charges quite slowly.

u/blorg · 2 pointsr/digitalnomad

If what you care about is picking up a weak wifi signal you are probably better off with an external USB wifi adapter with actual antennas. From my reading on these, these can make a huge actual difference, and transform a wonky connection to a rock solid one.

Something like this - this is just a cheap one, if you are focused on range, read reviews and get one with the best range. But key is, you want something with a big honking antenna on it.

There are also repeaters, although I think if you just have one device you need range on, you are better off the USB external adapter route.

There are also "pocket routers" like the HooToo TripMate that /u/age_of_bronze mentions, and I have on of these myself- a TP-LINK WR710N which from the look of it is pretty similar to the HooToo. These are great for setting up a private network or to share an internet connection that is limited to one device, and they may indeed provide a modicum of range extension, but if range, specifically, is your goal, you are better off with something with a significant antenna and probably a USB adapter.

u/twothumber · 2 pointsr/linux4noobs

My recent Linux wireless experience:

  1. Bought this card from Amazon for $15.00 Chose it because it's Panda and has reputation for Ubuntu Support.
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JDVRCI0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  2. Powered down computer, unplugged wired ethernet, plugged the USB Ethernet into back of machine
  3. Powered up Computer. Card was instantly recognized and clicked on the correct Wireless, inputted Password.
  4. 3 seconds and I was up and running. Actually seems faster than my built in ethernet.


    By the way Kubuntu recognized every device including my printer that was connected to the system.

    ​

    I realize that you are stuck with the NIC that's built into your system unless you want to add a compatible USB Nic and that's frustrating. Problem is that Linux is only 3% of the market and they can't support everything out of the box.

    Oh and my last computer had a proprietary NIC Windows didn't recognize it and I had to install drivers. Kubuntu picked it up and plugged and played it.

    ​
u/ProFusionYT · 2 pointsr/buildapc
u/th3suffering · 2 pointsr/AndroidTV

When I had a MiBox I bought this one
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Network-Adapter-Ethernet-1000Mbps/dp/B00LLUEJFU

Worked great and is external powered (not required for just Ethernet) so the USB hub will work great too.

u/timrbrady · 2 pointsr/nintendo

Here's a list of adapters with that chipset on Amazon. I've noticed this one a couple times. My main concern is whether or not the cable is long enough to use with the Switch dock without having to leave the back flap open.

u/voneahhh · 2 pointsr/smashbros

UGREEN Ethernet Adapter USB Gigabit Network Adapter 10/100/1000Mbps/1 Gbps with USB 3.0 Hub 3 Ports for Nintendo Switch, Wii, Windows Surface Pro, MacBook Air/Retina, iMac Pro, Chromebook, and More PC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LLUEJFU/

u/coledeb · 2 pointsr/AndroidTV

Not a problem. I will say I haven't pushed it to the very edge of what it claims in terms of support for 4k super ultra mega UHD dolby whatever, so bear in mind I can't really speak for that. But I think you'll do well with the mi box. If you want ethernet, I bought a UGreen USB 3.0 Hub that includes an RJ45 jack, and it works well.

u/TechDoctorUK · 2 pointsr/Addons4Kodi

Sorry, the USB adaptor I purchased is this

That is a a Gigabit adaptor.

I understand the port to the Firestick is only USB 2.0 but that still has a theoretical speed of 480mbs.

I would rather have a hardwired 480mbs connection Vs Wifi.

u/pofcorn · 2 pointsr/AndroidTV

I've had success with the ugreen with both the Mibox and Nintendo Switch : https://www.amazon.ca/UGREEN-Ethernet-1000Mbps-Windows10-Nintendo/dp/B00LLUEJFU

u/GravityDead · 2 pointsr/AndroidTV

You should be able to stream 4K even on 50 mbps speed but if you still want improved speed then you may TRY (i'm not sure it'd work) this UGREEN USB 3.0 Ethernet+USB combo. This works with MiBox as expected so it may also work with your Sony TV.

u/jaxpunk · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LLUEJFU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

17 bux on amazon to never have to worry about wifi in my living room. On the go, well that's another story. But at least playing on the tv there is no longer an issue.

u/gaso · 2 pointsr/pihole

Yep, running a headless server with no GUI autostarting you're looking at around 50MB if pihole is the only thing running on the device and you're using Raspbian Lite, Minibian, or a similar lite distro.

Honestly I'd get both units, use the old Raspberry Pi to play with the GPIO and programming, and the Pi Zero just for pihole.

I used this adapter, works perfectly fine. A little expensive, but I wanted something that Just Worked....the first batch of generic ethernet adapters I bought were really cheap and really crap.

https://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads/raspbian/

Download the lite version, put a SSH file on it:

>The boot partition on a Pi should be accessible from any machine with an SD card reader, on Windows, Mac, or Linux. If you want to enable SSH, all you need to do is to put a file called ssh in the /boot/ directory. The contents of the file don’t matter: it can contain any text you like, or even nothing at all. When the Pi boots, it looks for this file; if it finds it, it enables SSH and then deletes the file.

Plug everything into your network and turn it on, look for the new device in your DHCP leases in your router. Assign it a fixed lease somewhere easy to remember (as my network is 192.168.8.x, and the router/gateway is 192.168.8.1, I like .2-.10 for servers and other fixed address devices for example).

Connect to rPi with ssh on a linux box, or putty on a windows machine. Log in with the default credentials of pi, raspberry.

sudo apt-get update
sudo apt-get upgrade
sudo apt-get dist-upgrade
change credentials is you wish
sudo reboot now (this get the new IP addy from the router, you could restart networking too)

log back in
curl -sSL https://install.pi-hole.net | bash

If everything goes well, set the new IP addy in the router to be served to your LAN.

Nothing to it huh?

u/cjbravo1 · 2 pointsr/pihole

Get an Micro USB to Ethernet Adapter.
Last thing you want is your wireless DNS Server to go down.

https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Ethernet-Compatible-Raspberry-AX88772A/dp/B00RM3KXAU

u/crushendo · 2 pointsr/arduino

Ok, great. So what I'm thinking now is that I would have the Xbee plugged into its grove development board and house those at the top of the tower- that way with the dev board it can be reprogrammed easily, and the dev board can send serial data down the tower without me having to house anything else important up there that might also need maintenance. I would then need to use a micro USB to ethernet adapter, like perhaps this one, to connect ethernet to the board and run it down the tower. From there I could plug ethernet into my Rpi/arduino to read the serial data from the dev board and process/log/send it, or convert back to USB to plug into a laptop for maintenance. Does all of that make sense to do?

My only concern is that the reset/commissioning buttons on the dev board won't be accessible, but then I could always power cycle to reset anyway, so I don't think it will be an issue.

u/suziesamantha · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I don't think you will find what you are looking for. The Cisco console cable has an adapter built into the cable. You cannot just connect the wires from USB directly to an Ethernet cable and have it work. You will have to have an Ethernet adapter. Why not just take something like this and plug an ethernet cable into it and then put heat shrink tubing over the connector. I think that is the closest thing you will find. If you are looking to extend your USB connection over cat5 you will require an adapter for that as well. You could use this and a USB OTG adapter.

If you could give more information on your "specific reasons" that you don't want to use adapters maybe it would help with suggestions that would meet your needs.

u/KLM_SpitFire · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

You know what, that's an excellent point. I'm thinking I might free up my M1 B+ now. Are there any particular adapter brands that you recommend for solid performance? (It seems the one you linked is out of stock currently.)

Edit: Seems like this is the most popular option currently. Any personal experience with it?

u/MiataCory · 2 pointsr/sysadmin

That was my original thought, rPi w/ OLED screen and some batteries (or PoE?)

But I suppose everyone's got a smartphone these days, and $13 is better than $50. (though you may have to root your phone to use it).

u/Smallmammal · 2 pointsr/sysadmin

If you have an android phone that supports USB OTG, you can just use something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Micro-B-Ethernet-Raspberry-AX88772A/dp/B00RM3KXAU

u/Stratty88 · 2 pointsr/rasberrypi

This guide can set up a pi as an access point.

The 13th comment down on this comment post works to setup a VPN.

A microusb to ethernet adapter like this one might be useful.

I've setup a VPN on a pi and have that ethernet adapter, so I can answer questions about those, but have never setup a pi as an access point. There's also this guide if you want to skip all that. Feel free to ask any questions.

u/Hobo_RingMaster · 2 pointsr/pihole

I got a Pi Zero and this micro USB ethernet adapter. It has been working flawlessly for over a year now.

u/meatwad75892 · 2 pointsr/nexus6

I played with my Plugable adapter on Nexus 6 and Nexus 7 before leaving it on my Nexus Player permanently. Worked fine, plug & play with no extra steps, should do exactly the same on custom roms of any sort, barring any rom-specific bugs that could possibly mess it up.


http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00RM3KXAU/ref=mp_s_a_1_sc_1?qid=1451779489&sr=8-1-spell&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=mixro+uab+ethernet

u/headsh0t · 2 pointsr/techsupportgore

I believe this is the one. The one end doesn't seem to negotiate at 1gbps on my Cisco 3550 for some reason but I don't really need it

u/AverageWhiteMale2 · 2 pointsr/xboxone

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S6DBGIS/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_0skdAbER7Z1F4

This is what I bought. You get two adapters, plug one in by your modem and attach it to the modem via ethernet cable. Plug the other one in by your Xbox and attach it to the console via ethernet cable. They talk to each other over your electrical and supposedly are the next best thing to being hardwired into your modem. Also prevents running cables across the house.

u/matt10489 · 2 pointsr/wireless

> AC is faster but less stable

lol wut? Based on what? Its a standardization telling hardware and software how to work. Its just the next wave of 802.11 wifi.

Also, you could lookinto the Ethernet over your electric wiring.

Edit: Like this

u/tmlhalo · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Just skip the wifi all together.

link

u/ArchiMarK · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

How about powerline adapters?

Sure, it's not quite UTP in terms of speed, but it's a very good solution in situations where there are no existing cables and wireless doesn't cut it any more. And it's pretty much plug and forget: one near the router (no problem at all when they come with an extra outlet) and one in your room.

u/wictor1992 · 2 pointsr/RocketLeague

Where are you from? I bought mine on Amazon.

Seems like Devolo is only for EU countries, so in case you are from US or rest of the world, you can try Netgear:

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-PowerLINE-Gigabit-Pass-Through-PLP1200-100PAS/dp/B00S6DBGIS/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1521910171&sr=8-7&keywords=powerline+ethernet+adapter

u/DoctorChang420 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

This is your best bet, m8. NETGEAR PowerLINE 1200 Mbps, 1 Gigabit Port with Pass-Through, Extra Outlet (PLP1200-100PAS) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S6DBGIS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lm9UCbF1WT4XT

u/ascagnel · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I bought these in late 2015 at around $100 each; today, they run for about $80. I got nowhere near 1Gbps speeds.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S6DBGIS/

u/DefensiveHuman · 2 pointsr/bose

If you give until later today I will verify since I am working and it arrived today.
I ordered this one for my Sennheiser's but I own QC35 IIs.

Avantree DG40S USB Bluetooth 4.0 Adapter Dongle for PC Laptop Computer Desktop Stereo Music, Skype Calls, Keyboard, Mouse, Support All Windows 10 8.1 8 7 XP vista [2 Year Warranty] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VWEK4IG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BwYpDbYTDMK48

u/roux93 · 2 pointsr/soccer

You're looking for a bluetooth receiver. You can get one that plugs into your usb or one that plugs into the audio port.

u/kyoumau · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I really don't know. The only obvious difference that I saw in the title was just that the asus has Bluetooth 4.2 and the gigabyte, avaible in canada, has 4.0.
I end up going with a bluetooth usb dongle because I really didn't need the wifi.

u/OhCyrusSigh · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

If you have your switch docked, there are a few Bluetooth receivers on Amazon. The Bluetooth receiver here is the one I've bought

u/socokid · 2 pointsr/buildapc

FWIW, I tried a bit to get my PS4 controller to work properly in a bunch of different games. I could get it to work after some messing around, but...

Once I broke down and picked up an XBox controller, I didn't have to mess with virtually anything. It just works.

WAY worth it, IMO (having gone through it). I've never owned an XBox, but for PC gaming with a controller, I would suggest saving up and getting a "Microsoft" game controller... So much easier.

I picked up a $13 bluetooth adapter for my PC to use it. Works great.

u/ICantDoNames · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Couldn't you just get something like this and then get internet via Ethernet?

u/notthepig · 2 pointsr/gadgets

Im trying to do something which is seemingly simple but it turns out to be giving me quite a hard time.


I want a bluetooth headset for gaming with both audio and a mic.


One of the requirements I have is low latency. I therefore bought this set:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075VLWPXF/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


As a bluetooth transmitter I bought:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UEGDDAY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


But then, I realized this doesnt fully bluetooth my comp, it only allowes me to receive audio, not use it as a mic.


So I purchased the following:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B4W40VC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

After setting this up I realized the 'receiver' part is only for connecting with a phone, and didnt help me use a mic from my headset. regardless, i have to move the switch from either TX or RX. cant do both at once.

The only bluetooth that let me do both was something similiar to this:
https://www.amazon.com/Avantree-Bluetooth-Adapter-Wireless-Keyboard/dp/B00VWEK4IG/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1522075221&sr=1-3&keywords=usb+bluetooth+transmitter


Not only did this come with its own issues (for some reason the mic stopped working when in game) bit it isnt low latency.


What are my options? Why is it so hard to find a Bluetooth adapter that can enable low latency Audio and mic simultaneously. Is it really that hard? What are my other options?

u/thecircusboy · 2 pointsr/speedrun

I use the Wii U Pro Controller with the cheapest generic Bluetooth dongle I could find on Amazon. If your PC has built-in Bluetooth, you can use that instead. Regardless of what adapter you use, all you have to do is install the TOSHIBA Bluetooth Stack and WiinUPro.

Having been a Gamecube controller fanatic since 2003, I think the Pro Controller is the first controller I've used that is actually superior for general-purpose gaming (on Wii U or PC). The main advantage that I've noticed is the placement of the D-pad, which actually makes it feel just as important and easy-to-use as the analog stick; the Gamecube's D-pad was shoved out of the way and required the player to contort their hands if they wanted to use it (which very few Gamecube games did).

I'm surprised that Nintendo doesn't include a Pro Controller in any of its main Wii U bundles; having bought my Wii U about two months ago, the Pro Controller has been one of the highlights of the experience. If I were forced to use the Gamepad for all of the games, I doubt I'd play as often (Splatoon being the prime example of a good game that requires Gamepad use and thus sees little play from me).

tl;dr Get the Pro Controller! It's awesome!

u/mckrackin5324 · 2 pointsr/thedivision

Controller companion is awesome but don't use it to use a PS4 controller for The Division. It emulates a keyboard so there's no aim assist and the speed it moves the camera and stuff is insane. Like a 10,000 DPI mouse. lol


Use DS4Windows IF you play The Division from the couch. It emulates an Xbox controller. Plays just like your PS4 then.

Get a good Bluetooth dongle. I have one that works anywhere in the house and another that struggles at 10 feet with clear line of sight.

This one has a 164 foot range. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VWEK4IG/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00VWEK4IG&linkCode=as2&tag=tcbse-20

u/Whale_Oil · 2 pointsr/WindowsMR

If you find yourself in need of a bluetooth dongle, this is super cheap and hasn't given me a problem in the 7+ months I've had it.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VWEK4IG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/camdanvan · 2 pointsr/HeadphoneAdvice

I have the HD4.40BT and I enjoy them. they've got some nice bass. you will need to buy a Bluetooth dongle to plug into the PC, unless you have a notebook as most of them come with Wifi/Bt card inside them.

the Bt adapter I use is this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VWEK4IG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

it works wonderfully with Windows 10!

u/androidbruce · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I think he means Ethernet over power. Here's a link. TP-LINK AV1200 Powerline Adapter, Gigabit w/ Power Outlet Pass-through, Up to 1200Mbps (TL-PA8010P KIT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Y3QPG1A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WsFzxbJ0HVGBS

u/viperguy212 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

New(er) powerline adapters have passthroughs, this eliminates your "free" plug situation.

Oh and the "ethernet ports" on your power strips are likely phone lines (yes they've been around forever lol).

EDIT: sample here

u/CatPurrMeow · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Have you considered using a pair of Powerline adaptors?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00Y3QPG1A/

u/Rouse94 · 2 pointsr/PS4
u/PA_Dsq · 2 pointsr/PleX

I switched from wireless to the gigabit powerline Ethernet adaptor and it has worked great for me. I no longer get the"server not powerful enough" when direct playing 4k media.

This is the one I have
TP-Link AV2000 2-Ports Gigabit Powerline ethernet Adapter Kit, Power Outlet Pass-through, Powerline speeds up to 2000Mbps (TL-PA9020P KIT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H74VKZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YNrMBbDFG3RTF

u/Ineffective8465 · 2 pointsr/homeowners

I rewired the phone jacks in my house (built 2003). They were all going to a central point in the garage and the builders used Cat 5e, so were easily converted from phone (2 pins) to data (8 pins).

I don't think cat5 was around in the 90's, but not totally sure. If the wiring isn't already there, then yeah it will be a project to wire it, but not impossible if you're comfortable fishing wire and crawling through attics.

Powerline adapters also work great in many homes, depending on the quality of your electrical work and are plug and play. I used to use these as WiFi extenders (before switching to Unifis), and beside rebooting them once a month or so they worked fantastic.

Example of powerline adapter: https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Powerline-Pass-Through-TL-PA9020P-KIT/dp/B01H74VKZU/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=powerline+network+adapter&qid=1571690335&s=electronics&sr=1-3

Edit: WiFi has come a long way in the past few years. Invest in a high quality WiFi setup and you may not care about having wired connections anymore.

u/AfterAtoms · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I don't think anyone's helped you on your internet question, so here's some help:

I was in the same boat and what I ended up doing was after a few hours of research, getting a powerline adapter, this one to be specific, as a powerline adapter doesn't cripple your speeds as much as regular wifi or a repeater/extender does.

Regarding how and why I chose the TP-Link AV2000, it had really good reviews and it's apparently the fastest option if you need a good, reliable connection/speeds. You could cheap out on this but expect the opposite result. As a competitive FPS gamer (csgo, h1z1, pubg, etc), any potential loss of connection can ruin your game, so if you do these things, it will help to get a better powerline adapter.

Keep in mind you'll need two ethernet cables (CAT-4-6 should work, depends on your internet speed (one that connects from one of these units into your modem, and another one from the other unit into your ethernet port on your computer)), two unused wall-plugs (highly recommended not to plug either unit into, eg: a power strip, because then there will be interference which can cause issues), and of course the powerline adapters.

Also be aware that the closer the distance between the two units, the better the connection/speed. So if you're upstairs and the router/modem is downstairs like what it is for me, connect the first unit as close upstairs as possible (of course with the extent of how far your cable is (I had a 30ft one)) and the other one as close to it and to your computer as possible.

AMA if you need any more help regarding the above (or even build help).

u/bdm722 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

So an update if anyone finds themselves here at some point. I bought a power line adapter, the one I linked below, and my ping went from 200 ms over the wireless range extender to 84 ms over the power line adapter. I decided to buy through amazon because of their return policy if it didn't work. Now I haven't pushed the data limits of this thing but I get pretty much all of the data throughput I should get (a whopping 25mb/s... take that fiber lol)

Now, why am I in this situation?
I'm living in an in law suite so I don't have the flexibility to drill holes through floors & walls to get cable from one side of the house to where I am. Also, I considered MoCa but there is literally only one coax cable in the main house living room. None where I live.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H74VKZU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/PGZ4sheezy · 2 pointsr/PS4

So, after a good hour and a half of research, I decided I really liked the ones you linked me for the price, but I gotta go all out on this. Especially since I may be moving out with a friend soon who will also be a heavy Internet user (Destiny, anime, Netflix streaming, etc).

Ended up going with this model and some surprisingly cheap CAT7 Ethernet cables in the hopes that they will be heavy duty and future proof. From what I've read, both the top-of-the-line adapters and the high-grade cables are super overkill for what I actually have as an Internet setup. But after 3 years of being mocked as the lagging guy in raids, I will do anything for an upgrade.

If these work, I thank you from the bottom of my heart. Thank you for opening my eyes to this solution!

u/oj_with_toothpaste · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Im thinking about getting the ASUS AC88 Wifi adapter
(Because I cant run Ethernet to the room and various Powerline adapters have not worked out for few different reasons)

Anyway my question is it safe to assume that if my phone can consistently connect to my 5ghz signal this adapter can too? The only real reason I’m getting this specific adapter is because of the reach because my router is a bit far.

The price is a bit out there but I’m tired of it at this point and just want something that’s gonna work well and deliver the speeds I should be getting. My phone can always hit 120-150 Mbps while my computer jumps around 5-25 through Powerline/cheap USB WiFi adapters.

u/Vicing90 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

There's no built in wireless adapter if that's what you're asking.

Honestly not very read up on the M.2 wireless adapters but if you have a free M.2 slot I don't see why you couldn't get an M.2 adapter (don't take my word for it, not read up very well on them).

Generally though M.2 slots deactivates some SATA ports so I'd probably opt for a PCI-e 4x4 MIMO wifi adapter for future proofing. ex. https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-PCE-AC88-AC3100-802-11AC-Adapter/dp/B01H9QMOMY (note, not a recommendation, just an example)

If you don't have a high speed connection or a good router it's probably a waste of money and most 1x1/2x2 PCI-e adapters would suffice.

As I said though, my knowledge on M.2 wireless adapters is limited but for one it's noteworthy that if you don't have a 3x3 or 4x4 router it'd be wasted resources to get much more than a 2x2 adapter.. Also questioning the performance of mounting it inside the computer compared to external antenna of a PCI-e.

P.S. I'd probably have let someone else comment on it but I've seen a few similar posts lately with no answer so I figured I'd share my opinion on it at least even if it may not be the most helpful.

u/Points_To_You · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I'm a little clueless on what to look for in a wifi adapter nowadays. You used to just pick one with the highest letter at the end of it's name.

I'm sure my router doesn't support it, but I'd prefer if my wifi card can last me the next few years, which a router upgrade is possible during that timeline.

Could you suggest a decent PCI express card to go with?

I'm thinking maybe this one. Seems a bit expensive for a wifi card though.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H9QMOMY/?tag=pcpapi-20&th=1

Actually should I just go with a motherboard with onboard wifi?
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/2Phj4D/asus-strix-z270-e-gaming-atx-lga1151-motherboard-strix-z270-e-gaming

u/TheEthyr · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

A 3x3 AC like that TP-Link should be fine. You should get 300 to 400 Mbps with it from 15-20 feet, which is what I get with a Macbook Pro.

There is also the Asus PCE-AC88, which is a 4x4 AC. It's substantially more expensive. IMO, it's overkill for one computer but to each their own.

u/pmmguy · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

yes, if you would have gone for something like this, you would have got better numbers than A7000 which is limited by USB performance.

​

Internal cards are PCie based which is much higher performance than USB2.0 and even USB3.0.

one example,

https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-802-11AC-Wireless-AC3100-Adapter-PCE-AC88/dp/B01H9QMOMY/

​

I would not recommend any specific solution as everything has some or other problem.

​

other solution is you get a triband extender with ethernet port to get even better numbers. an example is NETGEAR EX8000 and plug in your PC to the LAN port.

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-Tri-Band-Extender-EX8000/dp/B074F3M2W8/

​

**Other big question** you need to answer is whether your ISP router is even capable of gigabit performance on Wireless. I think Zyxcel C3000Z has pretty crappy wireless performance. You are better off with 3rd Party router.

​

​

u/Kronos_Selai · 2 pointsr/buildapc

You don't need a $125 AIO cooler to prevent overheating lol. That cooler would be for if you wanted to OC that bad boy up to 5.0ghz or something.

With a 23in 1080p monitor, you really don't need much. If I were you, I'd upgrade to a 27in 1440p 144hz monitor for the best gaming experience. Key here is to get either a Freesync or Gsync monitor, coupled with the correct GPU. I personally use a BenQ 27in model that's 1440p/144hz with an rx 470 8gb GPU (freesync). I have never had such a good gaming experience as to 144hz and Freesync, honestly, it's that good! edit-it also has incredible color accuracy for being a TN panel, better than my IPS panel next to it.

Don't spend $2300 on something only to look at it through a 23in shitty monitor. That's just ludicrous.

I dunno what your homework entails, or how intensive your art would be, but my guess is the 7700k would do just fine for that. The 1700 really shines when it comes to video encoding, virtualization, multi-tasking, etc etc. It games perfectly well, but with an Nvidia GPU you'll notice better framerates on the 7700k (at the high end). The one key thing about 1700 gaming performance, and this is entirely subjective but often repeated by actual owners...is that the 1700 is
really* smooth. Like...really smooth to game with. No lag, no jittering, it's really immersive that way. It's probably because the CPU has so much overhead to it.

Anyways, give this WiFi card a look if you absolutely demand the best signal. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H9QMOMY/?tag=pcpapi-20

u/It_Was_Jeff · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I was more asking how far the signal has to travel. The big bonus that more expensive cards give you is more range, but if he's only going to be a room away then the range matters a bit less.

If price legitimately doesn't matter and his PC is pretty far away from the router or there are thick walls between the PC and router, this thing gets great reviews:

https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-802-11AC-Wireless-AC3100-Adapter-PCE-AC88/dp/B01H9QMOMY

Never personally used that one, but a lot of people seem to like it. The drivers are a bit wonky though. If that's overkill, I own the card linked below and have never had any issues with it, and for the price I honestly don't know if you can beat it performance-wise. I would recommend it to anyone unless they need some serious range:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Archer-Heatsink-Technology-T6E/dp/B016K0896K

u/Nvidiuh · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Asus makes some excellent PCI-E Wi-Fi cards. I have a PCE-AC56 and it has worked flawlessly for me for over two and a half years. It's well within your price range and it offers excellent performance. If you're looking for something a bit more powerful, the PCE-AC68 is basically the upgrade to the PCE-AC56, and I can only assume it performs slightly better. A final choice is to go balls to the wall overkill with the PCE-AC88, which I find hard recommending unless you need massive range and signal strength, which doesn't seem to be something you require. It's also out of your stated price range, so this one is entirely up to you. Any one of these should handily solve your problem. If you're looking for a good quality Wi-Fi solution that doesn't take advantage of your wallet like a prison bitch, the PCE-AC56 is a great choice.

u/johnestan · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I'm currently in the process of upgrading my home network and have a similar problem. I'm renting and understand not being able to run a cord across the house. I've been using the top end powerline adapter (TP-link AV2000) and getting 60-70Mbps. I've read that this can be much better or worse just depending on your house wiring. I just quickly tried an Ookla speedtest with a MoCa 2.0 adapter and was able to get all of my 200Mbps internet connection. So it's at least that fast. I have a MocA 2.5 adapter coming in the mail today and I'm going to run an iPerf3 test on all three solution to see their full bandwidth. MoCa was the best solution for me. Other possible solutions:

  1. Move the router, NAS, and workstation all into the same room and wire them with ethernet
  2. Put a nice 4x4 AC router in the middle of the house and use 4x4 adapters on the NAS and workstation (or hardwire one of them). This won't be gigabit but can still be pretty fast. There might be fastest Wifi 6 hardware out now, but it's hard for me to keep up. It's still very early days for Wifi 6.
  3. If they insist on a wireless solution and can't get a good connection to their workstation with a single router, the Orbi RBK50 is the fastest mesh solution.

    So I'd rank possible solutions:

    Wired Ethernet > MoCa > 4x4 Single AC Router with a strong signal to workstation > Orbi > Powerline
u/MultiPlexityXBL · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I bought [this one] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H9QMOMY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) . it is a bit expensive but to be honest I am enjoying it because there are no compromises . its very comparable to being hardwired. I went from hardwired to this for different reasons but I haven enjoyed this immensely for the past 5mo.

u/rishicourtflower · 2 pointsr/Chromecast

I think you can do it if you're willing to settle for two separate adapters - first a PoE to separate Ethernet+MicroUSB, and then Ethernet+MicroUSB to OTG.

For instance this Ethernet-OTG adapter - which I know works with a Chromecast - would probably work fine with this adapter this adapter.

u/falconPancho · 2 pointsr/homesecurity

You can use a Canary or Piper plus a POE splitter cable like this one. Both have ethernet ports and a micro usb port. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDLUSE7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_v1JcAb66BJK36 Arlo Q also has a POE model. All are essentially kind of bleh without the reoccuring services. Arlo Q is free* but my suspicion is that is only till they dominate the market and wipe out the little startups. Most people willing to run POE will just do a NVR solution since the total cost of ownership is lowest that way. It does put more responsibility on you the owner to keep up with patches and security. Blink and arlo battery powered are motion triggered so expect to miss a lot of motion or recharge more often.

u/MofoJack · 2 pointsr/homelab

I run one of these on my Pi3 and it works like a champ

u/Aerialbear · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

You can using either the official Raspberry Pi PoE hat or an adapter like this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDLUSE7/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_-VWFDbQP627W6

My home network is also all Unifi and about every Raspi I have on it is running off of PoE. It's a little more challenging making it look pretty with cable management but I'm always happy to save a power outlet where I can.

u/ulmanms · 2 pointsr/Ubiquiti

If you're cheap and not bothered by the aesthetics you can also use something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/UCTRONICS-802-3af-Splitter-Ethernet-Raspberry/dp/B01MDLUSE7/

u/boosteddsm · 2 pointsr/pihole

Shouldn't be a problem, this also allows you to put a ups on the switch and not have to worry about any poe powered devices going down. Also allows you to power cycle a device just by disabling/enabling the port it's on. I use these all over the place, much cheaper than the hats.

u/IceZ23 · 2 pointsr/Ubiquiti

I am running a pi hole and use this to power and connect the zero to the POE switch.. Works remarkable well and I think it was about 8 bux when I bought it.

u/mirlyn · 2 pointsr/RTLSDR

Something like this?.... Interesting idea. Thanks!

u/bpennypacker · 2 pointsr/pihole

Nothing too fancy about my pi-holes running on RPi 3's. I am running a slightly modified version of chronometer2, and since my switch is PoE I'm using that as a power supply for the Pi's. I found this handy PoE splitter that works wonderfully for powering the Pi's from the switch.

u/idunowat23 · 2 pointsr/buildapcforme

That is a mediocre deal for $550. Building it new would cost $600.

I would ask him to lower the price to $500 at least. You're giving up a lot of quality and all the warranties you would get from a new PC.

PCPartPicker Part List

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD Ryzen 7 2700 3.2 GHz 8-Core Processor | $186.43 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | ASRock B450M-HDV R4.0 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | $64.88 @ OutletPC
Memory | *Crucial 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-2666 Memory | $63.99 @ Adorama
Storage | ADATA SU800 128 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | $22.03 @ Amazon
Storage | *Hitachi Ultrastar 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $33.03 @ Amazon
Video Card | Gigabyte Radeon RX 580 4 GB AORUS 4G Video Card | $169.99 @ Amazon
Case | DIYPC MA01 MicroATX Mini Tower Case | $25.97 @ Newegg
Power Supply | EVGA 400 W ATX Power Supply | $34.99 @ ModMyMods
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $601.31
| *Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria |
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-08-05 14:19 EDT-0400 |

u/MisterFerro · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Any bluetooth adapter will work. I use this one
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0775YF36R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0IOJDbSVZW7RG

u/matthewv1998 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

ZEXMTE Bluetooth USB Adapter CSR... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0775YF36R?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share this is what i have. havent had any issues, works well and cheap

u/PinguM3mes · 2 pointsr/buildapcforme

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 2600 3.4GHz 6-Core Processor | $165.99 @ Amazon
CPU Cooler | Noctua - NH-D9L 46.4 CFM CPU Cooler | $51.89 @ Newegg
Motherboard | MSI - B450 TOMAHAWK ATX AM4 Motherboard | $99.99 @ Amazon
Memory | G.Skill - Aegis 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $135.98 @ Newegg
Memory | G.Skill - Aegis 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $135.98 @ Newegg
Storage | Crucial - MX500 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $98.89 @ OutletPC
Storage | Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $43.90 @ OutletPC
Video Card | Gigabyte - Radeon RX 580 8GB AORUS 8G Video Card | $229.99 @ Amazon
Case | Fractal Design - Focus G (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case | $62.98 @ Newegg
Power Supply | EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $69.88 @ OutletPC
Optical Drive | Asus - DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer | $18.39 @ OutletPC
Wireless Network Adapter | TP-Link - TL-WN881ND PCI-Express x1 802.11b/g/n Wi-Fi Adapter | $17.99 @ Newegg Business
Monitor | LG - 29WK600-W 29.0" 2560x1080 60Hz Monitor | $243.90 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1395.75
| Mail-in rebates | -$20.00
| Total | $1375.75
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-09-05 22:45 EDT-0400 |

Webcam: https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-LifeCam-HD-3000-for-Business/dp/B005BZNEKM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1536201556&sr=8-1&keywords=lifecam+hd-3000&dpID=31S7L1sv1cL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Bluetooth: https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Receiver-Transfer-Wireless-Keyboard/dp/B0775YF36R/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1536201601&sr=1-3&keywords=bluetooth+adapter&dpID=41gXomRdk7L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

A case with more than 3 USB ports will cost more than 100$ extra, so if it's not a necessity, I would just deal with the 2. The LG UltraWide is one of the best color reproducing monitor at a resonable price, and not curved. A RX580 is plenty for the games you listed and frees up budget for 32GB RAM, so you can have those 90 chrome tabs open. I would recommend buying Win10 and MS Office from eBay, just make sure the seller is reputable.

u/majoroutage · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

No. Just no. That is to feed audio from Bluetooth into an aux jack, and happens to use USB for power.

You need an actual USB interface adapter.

Like this.

u/Brandon_2149 · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Does anyone know how well these USB Bluetooth adapters work on switch? How is the audio quality/delay? I wanted to use a headphones, so i don't make a lot of noise. We'll still playing on my TV.

https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Receiver-Transfer-Wireless-Keyboard/dp/B0775YF36R/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521057781&sr=8-1&keywords=bluetooth+usb

I wanted to use headphones with my Switch docked, but Nintendo Switch Pro controller doesn't have a Headphone jack. On PS4/XB1 the controller all have one built in which sounds great with no delay. Luckily my headphones have both audio jack and blue tooth.

u/ItsJmao · 2 pointsr/GuitarHero

This is the one that I just got for my Wii guitar and I couldn't be any happier, feels like there's very little delay.

Bluetooth Adapter:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0775YF36R/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Software/Drivers for the Wii Guitar:
https://www.julianloehr.de/educational-work/hid-wiimote/

u/pastarific · 2 pointsr/SteamController

k just did this:

----

  • (Latest SC firmware, steam closed [this doesn't appear to matter.])

  • Removed Steam Controller via Device Manager just to be sure (its using the standard Windows BT LE drivers, fwiw. Nothing special.)

  • Bluetooth & Other Device Settings

  • Removed Steam Controller from BT saved devices

  • (SC is now listed nowhere.)

  • Steam+Y on SC

  • Add Bluetooth ..

  • Click SteamController (has mouse icon)

  • (No prompt for a bluetooth code or anything.)

  • Connects and works.

    ---

    Maybe there is some issue with your BT radio and the SC? If you google both terms you might find if other people are having similar issues.

    Windows identifies mine as "Generic Bluetooth Radio", made by Cambridge Silicon Radio Ltd., ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0775YF36R/ )
u/chug84 · 2 pointsr/8bitdo

Thank you for your reply. I am currently using this one. I just ordered the one you linked me too though so hopefully I'll have luck with it. Thank you for your reply.

u/DZCreeper · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Bonded-Ethernet-Adapter-ECB6200K02/dp/B013J7OBUU

Moca 2 adapters that will do 1gb/s are fairly expensive, you need 2 of them so a total of $140 per link. However, this approach plus a cheap access point will give you better coverage than having a single more expensive access point.

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY

Measure the strength of your wifi and your neighbors at various points around your house. You want to set your access points to channels with the least amount of interference, for the best performance.

If you have an android phone I recommend this app:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer

u/manarius5 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

>Is buying just an Actiontec-WBC6200Q02 a simple solution with my hardware?

No. You need something to be the "source" of the MoCA network, so you would need something like this: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B013J7OBUU/ref=twister_B017XMNV2Q?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 to pair with the WCB6200Q.

Additionally, you may have a hiccup because MoCA and DOCSIS 3.1 (the technology that runs your cable modem) use the same frequency space. You can try to use the modem and MoCA adapters at the same time, but no guarantee that they will work because of the frequency issue. The way you'd get around this is to make sure that the cable you're using for the MoCA is isolated from the rest of the cable network.

u/ShaunRMiller83 · 2 pointsr/cordcutters

Look into using a MoCA device like this

Actiontec Bonded MoCA 2.0 Ethernet to Coax Adapter (ECB6200S02) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013J7OBUU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_CRaQzbDK7Q8JG

You will get far superior performance with MoCA over Powerline

u/The_Funky_Stink · 2 pointsr/Ubiquiti

Just get an actiontec moca adapter. I used those for friends who don't use TiVo. I'm pretty sure the class 2 moca's are out.

Yup:
Actiontec Bonded MoCA 2.0 Ethernet to Coax Adapter (ECB6200S02) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013J7OBUU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7EfVzbF8KSJMP

u/jasonin951 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I bought my 2 story house brand new over 6 years ago and unfortunately did not choose to get it pre-wired with Ethernet so my options are pretty limited. The builder did however include a single Ethernet connection from the outside telecom box to my living room. With this I was able to connect the ONT to my Ubiquiti USG in the living room and get wifi through the house with the connected AC Lite. However I have a lot of ethernet connected gear in my office (computer, Microcell, NAS, etc) which is on the first floor but does not have an adjoining wall to the living room.

I use 2 of these to connect the office and living room and they are extremely reliable and allow my full 500/500 internet connection in my office:

https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Bonded-Ethernet-Adapter-ECB6200S02/dp/B013J7OBUU/ref=pd_sbs_147_t_1/131-2202447-9421808?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B013J7OBUU&pd_rd_r=702cd6af-d71d-4ff1-aa33-57999a4376db&pd_rd_w=ejaV9&pd_rd_wg=4PjmK&pf_rd_p=5cfcfe89-300f-47d2-b1ad-a4e27203a02a&pf_rd_r=VYPQB75ZWD8Z310D9WA7&psc=1&refRID=VYPQB75ZWD8Z310D9WA7

u/PhantomGamers · 2 pointsr/technology

You can use any router with Verizon for internet, however if you also get TV through Verizon you either need to chain your preferred router to your Verizon router (and then you can just disable WIFI on the Verizon router), or you can get a MOCA 2.0 ethernet to coax adapter instead and solely use your custom router.

I should say, your TV will work without that but you won't have access to the guide or on demand options.

Check this thread on the Verizon forums for more information.

u/FuzzyMistborn · 2 pointsr/Ubiquiti

I haven't done it myself, but my understanding is what you would do is set up the ubiquiti router as your main router connected to the Verizon ONT via ethernet. You would need a number of MOCA bridges to connect the ethernet from your ubiquiti router to your coax runs for the TV (here's an example MOCA bridge). I'd suggest having a separate switch to handle the MOCA bridges just to keep it all segregated (and potentially VLAN'd off). That should get you what you're after (but again, I have not personally done this nor have I really looked into it in great detail).

u/FUKtheCARDINALS · 2 pointsr/cincinnati
u/TripJammer · 2 pointsr/vintageaudio

this seems like the kind of goodwill find that allows you to pass the love of vintage on to someone who will fall in love with it and continue the hobby. Buy it, do some cleaning, gift it. Get them some similar grade speakers and one of those bluetooth receivers from Amazon, and you will have done some good in the world.

u/missmongee · 2 pointsr/techsupport

No, your tv has only optical and RCA audio output. You'll have to buy an adapter/transmitter like this one for optical, or this one for RCA. You could probably find a cheaper transmitter.

u/Vitate · 2 pointsr/UCSantaBarbara

Off the top of my head:

  • First aid kit (used it more than I thought I would that year)
  • Extra seating (foldable chair(s) at least)

    Quick tangent: the coolest room on my floor in FT was a double. They bunked their beds and arranged their beds to be bunked together. They then put a futon and chairs in their room and had plenty of space for friends to hang out. You will not regret trying to be like these guys.

  • Desk chair cushion (I recommend this one; stay away from Walmart/Target's shitty ones)
  • Cool lamp or some form of alternative to the flourescent lighting when you're just hanging out
  • a few small knick-knacks to liven up the place
  • WALL DECOR. Get a cool tapestry (urbanoutfitters.com has cool ones), some sort of poster -- anything!
  • A twin XL mattress pad
  • Extra sheets

    Another tangent: I had a darling girl over one fateful night in FT, and I'm really glad I met her. After she left, however, I was even more glad that I had an extra pair of sheets because I noticed that she managed to smear her face makeup all over my sheets and pillowcase.

  • Some sort of speakers with a sub. I can recommend some good speakers, but an even better idea if you have existing ones is to buy an adapter like this, and use bluetooth to connect your speakers to your phone and laptop.
  • Fan(s). If you're in a double, you can get away with 1-2 fans. If you're in a triple, I recommend 2-3 fans. Vornado is a good brand. If you're living on campus and not in FT, I would get a small fan with a clip. You'll want to attach this to your desk shelf (FT doesn't have these shelves).

  • Sleeping bag/blanket(s)/extra pillow(s). These will be useful in case someone crashes at your place and you don't want to cozy up with them in your tiny bed.
  • Shower caddy and shower flip flops
  • Baskets of some sort to organize your stuff

    I know you are trying to reduce costs, but I included some seemingly unnecessary things on this list because your dorm room is your home for the year. Having a little bit of decor and extra seating makes all the difference in terms of your happiness.
    If you have any questions, feel free to ask; good luck!
u/ibluestone3 · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Hi Reddit,

I am not yet an audiophile, but have been doing some research as I'm inheriting a hi-fi system comprised of the following:

-Luxman M-113 stereo amplifier

-Luxman M-120A stereo amplifier

-Counterpoint SA-5000 Preamplifier with power supply

-2 VPMS RM1 speakers (8 Ohms)

-Pro-Ject Audio Debut Carbon turntable

I live in an apartment, so it is completely unrealistic to keep all this gear. I have the option to keep/buy more/sell existing hardware however I see fit in order to achieve the following two goals:

  1. Ability to stream via Bluetooth audio from a record on the turntable to the VPMS RM1 speakers on the other side of the living room. I don't mind minor quality degradation due to bluetooth, but absolutely cannot run wire and the turntable will not be placed near receiver.

  2. As small of a hardware footprint as possible. System does not need to be loud.

    After some research I have found these three products - will they, in combination, allow me to achieve my goals? Maybe I'm on the right track but chose terrible hardware?

  3. A turntable preamp which the Debut Carbon will go directly into - something like https://www.amazon.ca/Pyle-Pro-PP444-Compact-Turntable-Preamp/dp/B004HJ1TTQ/ref=sr_1_2

  4. Bluetooth audio transmitter which the preamp will out to - something like https://www.amazon.ca/Bluetooth-Streaming-Esinkin-Wireless-Receiver/dp/B016NUTG5K/ref=pd_ybh_a_4

  5. Bluetooth compatible audio receiver - something like https://www.amazon.ca/Pyle-Pro-PDA5BU-Bluetooth-Amplifier-Readers/dp/B00LI4L1LO/ref=sr_1_4

    Also if anyone has any idea how much those amps & preamps might be worth used please let me know. I would probably lean towards keeping them in storage though, so I can appreciate them when I have room to actually have them out. The turntable and speakers I can keep as is I probably?
u/egamble · 2 pointsr/audiophile

You can use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016NUTG5K to connect bluetooth.

u/fullhalter · 2 pointsr/audiobooks

You can get a Bluetooth reciever for like $20 that can plug into any existing speakers you already have. The Chromecast Audio is also very good as well, though I don't know how well it works with Audible.

This is the model I have and it works great.

u/LouGossetJr · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

AptX is supposedly the best. i use this one posted below and it works well and don't notice any drop in audio quality.

https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Adapter-Streaming-Wireless-Speakers/dp/B016NUTG5K/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1520619164&sr=8-4&keywords=bluetooth+receiver

u/youraveragejoseph · 2 pointsr/hometheater

If you ever want a cheap solution to stream bluetooth to your 609 and don't want to shell out $50 for the Onkyo dongle get this Esinkin Bluetooth adapter. I did and it works really well. You can stream any audio service from your phone/tablet to it bluetooth. Might make not upgrading a little more worth it to you.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016NUTG5K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/ceresia · 2 pointsr/techsupport

The model I used for a church is discontinued and replaced by newer, but the Ubiquiti PowerBeam series are quite nice. Our buildings were around 150ft apart and we have full speed at the receiving end:

Powerbeam

Connect a WAP at the receiving end of the antenna and you have WiFi 500FT away.

Edit: Yeah $200 plus some cabling and install time isn't "Cheap" to some, but you can repurpose them after the party or attach them if you ever do another party. I don't think powerline would do well at 500ft but you can definitely try PowerLine Adapters - Just make sure you catch the same run of electricity that is shared with the house (If the electric is a separate service than the house then these won't work at all

u/brosephargon · 2 pointsr/xbox

If you want a permanent fix with out a crazy long cable, get this;

NETGEAR PowerLINE 1000 Mbps, 1 Gigabit Port - Essentials Edition (PL1010-100PAS) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01929ESG6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_iVxXBbKD13EZZ

If you want to know what's wrong, it's probably servers and their bandwidth. It's probably getting bogged down from all the people on that server downloading.

That, or your Xbox could be downloading chunks of information and got behind in writing it to the hard drive. So your Xbox might be installing portions, then downloading.

Could also be your WiFi router putting your Xbox at the end of the priority list, or limiting it because of ports. There's a few ways to fix it, but I wouldn't recommend this step as it can be tedious and time consuming fixing it. Especially if you don't know what you're doing.

u/AedandoRL · 2 pointsr/RocketLeague

If you purchased a PowerLine adapter a long time ago, you probably had a PowerLine adapter with the original HomePlug AV1 specification. In short, AV1 sucked hard, and gave PowerLine adapters a bad rap.

The new PowerLine adapters with the HomePlug AV2 specification are more than capable of providing stability to online games. I use a set of 1000Mbps NETGEAR adapters, and I do not have this issue in any other game, just Rocket League, which leads me to believe that the game sends information too frequently at higher framerates. I don't have any packet loss issues when capped at 60FPS, but because I have a 144Hz monitor it looks very choppy without at least 144FPS.

As for your solution, that's what I used to do when I had a larger bedroom closer to our networking gear. Now I do not; because I've been going to higher ed for the past few years, my sister has taken over my old room, which makes perfect sense since I'm not there most of the year. My new room is too far to pass an Ethernet cable to (and too small for a desktop), so I situate my desktop in our living room and use a PowerLine adapter.

Thank you for the suggestion though! I appreciate the politeness, your English is great for someone who isn't a native speaker.

u/kevin82485 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

There's not a noticeable difference between 3200 and 3000. There is a 16 GB kit of 3000 MHz Vulcan memory on sale right now for $100 and a 16 GB kit of 3200 MHz G Skill memory for $115. Upon further thought, if you're just mainly building this to game, then I wouldn't be concerned about memory speed.

Also you mentioned getting a motherboard with WiFi. While it is very convenient to have, might I suggest getting a powerline adapter if it is not possible to pull a Cat 5e or Cat 6 cable through your house and walls? Something like this one would greatly improve download speeds: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-PowerLINE-1200-Gigabit-PL1200-100PAS/dp/B01929ESG6. I use one for my home NAS box that I have stuffed into the corner of my basement...works great. Not something you have to get now obviously, but something to keep in mind if you're not happy with your wireless speeds.

u/toplesstom13 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Understandable. Another option could be a cheap Ethernet over Powerline adapter if your garage is on the same panel as you house.

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-PowerLINE-1000-Mbps-Gigabit/dp/B01929ESG6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494353640&sr=8-1&keywords=ethernet+over+powerline

u/Meatballwarrior · 2 pointsr/buildapcforme

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor | $197.88 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | MSI - B350 TOMAHAWK ATX AM4 Motherboard | $81.98 @ Newegg
Memory | G.Skill - Trident Z 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $134.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Western Digital - Blue 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $149.87 @ OutletPC
Storage | Seagate - Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $59.99 @ Best Buy
Video Card | EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Superclocked Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card | $549.99 @ SuperBiiz
Case | Fractal Design - Focus G (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case | $59.99 @ NCIX US
Power Supply | EVGA - SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $89.99 @ NCIX US
Operating System | Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $92.99 @ B&H
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $1417.67
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-08-15 02:29 EDT-0400 |

Same build but 1080ti

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor | $197.88 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | MSI - B350 TOMAHAWK ATX AM4 Motherboard | $81.98 @ Newegg
Memory | G.Skill - Trident Z 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $134.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Western Digital - Blue 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $149.87 @ OutletPC
Storage | Seagate - Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $59.99 @ Best Buy
Video Card | Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB Gaming OC 11G Video Card | $724.98 @ Newegg
Case | Fractal Design - Focus G (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case | $59.99 @ NCIX US
Power Supply | EVGA - SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $89.99 @ NCIX US
Operating System | Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $92.99 @ B&H
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $1592.66
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-08-15 02:30 EDT-0400 |

Edit if you need a Wifi adapter this one will be good. Wifi is not recommend for online gaming thought. I would go with a powerline adapter if you have a free ethernet port on your router. I have some of these connecting the devices in my house and they work great.

u/iamyashsoni · 2 pointsr/PS4

Yes, but go for Netgear, I have personally had a better experience with Netgear than TP Link or Linksys....

NETGEAR PowerLINE 1000 Mbps, 1 Gigabit Port - Essentials Edition (PL1010-100PAS)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01929ESG6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HdV.Ab8VQZD0F

u/bhramabull · 2 pointsr/IPTV

Yea true again. I'm going to give the NetGear Powerline stuff a try.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B01929ESG6/ref=dp_olp_all_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=all
Seems like a good way to wire stuff scattered around the house!

u/hispanglotexan · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

You should consider Power over Ethernet instead. It lets you create a LAN connection through the electricity in your house by plugging one adapter into your router and the other into your computer. This is the one I'm using and I'll never look back.

EDIT: formatting

u/Torschlusspaniker · 2 pointsr/techsupport

It does not matter, the AV500 will get no where near the speed where it would matter.

Mixing cat5 and cat6 will be fine. I recommend returning the TP-Link AV500 and getting the AV2000. I have both and the AV2000 kicks the crap out of the AV500.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Powerline-Pass-through-TL-PA9020P-KIT/dp/B01H74VKZU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1472698617&sr=8-1&keywords=av2000

There was a coupon last week for $20 (over now) but it may go on sale again. They are planing a wifi enabled version by the end of the year/ early next year.

u/Aquagoat · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

If you've got a PCI slot on your mobo free you can get a wireless card to put in there for sure. Like this.
You could also get an Ethernet Over Power kit like this. You'd plug one into an outlet near your router, and run an ethernet cable from the router to it. Then plug the second one in near your PC, and connect to it with your ethernet cable. Voila. I've never used them, but I have a friend who uses one with great success.

u/Dark_24 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Well lets step out of the can or worms and give you some realistic advice now =)

Power Line adapters are not a bad idea. Just as Wireless is not a bad idea.. It is just not as good as hard run Ethernet..

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-Pass-through-TL-PA9020P-KIT/dp/B01H74VKZU/

That is the best one you can get.. right now..

The trick to power line adapter is that it is hit or miss if they will work.. Some people get good speeds.. Other people crap speeds.. you should expect at best to get about half the rated speed..

So using the 500Mbps older version might give you an acceptable speed, but then again it might not..

The ONLY true way to figure out what will work is to GET them and try them.. If they do not work out make sure you get them from someplace like amazon so you can easily return them if they do not work out..

honestly I would not overly cheap out on the lower ones. They are based on older technology that is not as reliable..

The newer version of these are doing better and better.

Also keep in mind where you are plugging these things in..

So say you have a window AC unit in your room plugged into you wall outlet.. That might cause your speeds to tank due to interference.. same goes for anything else.. Microwaves / fridges / dryers / HAIR dryers lol yea I have had people that said their internet went real slow when the wife was blow drying their hair or using the Iron to iron cloths..

If you imagine how your house is wired.. all the little loops that go to each breaker and what each breaker controls - you will have an idea of what types of things might cause you not to get close to the rated speed of the PA you are using..

With a hard wired Modem/Router I once had an issue with my father that when a halogen desk lamp was turned on at night the internet would completely drop. Yes that was fun to figure out..

The story is a funny one...

So the best thing you can do it TRY it out and see how it works for you..

u/TheGurmagAngler · 2 pointsr/buildapc

As far as internet goes, I ran into a similar problem with my build, and I bought the motherboard that was suggested to you in this thread that has built in Wi-Fi Unfortunately, that device's built in Wi-Fi isn't strong enough to go reach from the basement to the second story of a house. Additionally, I read several Amazon reviews saying that it couldn't get signal even on the same level through several walls.

Can you elaborate on your internet situation? Originally, I bought a wireless USB adapter for my PC, and it was pretty solid, but as far as gaming goes, I kept getting random ping spikes, resulting in characters skipping around. I'd definitely suggest a Powerline Adapter if you're significantly far away from your router. I bought this one, but there are definitely cheaper versions of it out there. I'd highly recommend it. It's as close as you can get to direct wiring to a router that's far away. Gaming has been smooth sailing for me ever since.

u/m_theredhead · 2 pointsr/Ubiquiti

I have a similar need and I tried using the wireless uplink feature and using a second UAP AC, but as noted in the other comments, the performance was not great.

I bought a Western Digital WD bridge from ebay for $35 and it works pretty well.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Western-Digital-WD-My-Net-AC-Bridge-4-Port-Gigabit-WiFi-Bridge-WDBMRD0000NBL/231070268555?epid=151851167&hash=item35ccdc7c8b:g:2AMAAOxyOlhSq59y

The throughput was about double what I was getting compared to a second UAP-AC-PRO and it only cost about $35. It is a little temperamental and needs to be rebooted occasionally.

I really wish there was a UBNT solution (AC bridge ) that didn't require going to their airmax products as the intermediate link.

Also as mentioned, the power line products have gotten much better. I just bought a couple of the AV2 power line adapters with mimo and get really good throughput on those. I had tried the previous generation and found them unusable. Something like:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-Pass-through-TL-PA9020P-KIT/dp/B01H74VKZU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1517531244&sr=8-3&keywords=powerline+mimo


u/9erInLKN · 2 pointsr/dragonballfighterz

I use tp-link power line adapters and they work really well for me but Im not sure how they would work in an apartment building. All you have to do is plug one into an outlet and your router then the other one plugs into the wall and wires to your xbox. They send the signal over the powerlines but the 2 outlets and power lines all have to be on the same circuit for it to connect. In an apartment your outlets may not all be on the same circuit like they would a house. You could definitely get some from walmart or amazon and return them if they dont work. They run about $50 for cheaper ones and 80-90 for better ones

Heres what I have
https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Powerline-Pass-Through-TL-PA9020P-KIT/dp/B01H74VKZU/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=powerline+adapter&qid=1568409038&sprefix=powerline&sr=8-5

u/EdgarAllan_BR0 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I ended up going with this one ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H74VKZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8QZ3Cb03PZJ9J )
I chose this because it had 2 Ethernet ports. Both yours and mine are almost identical when it comes to performance from what I’ve read. I have a similar arrangement to you where my pc is far away from the router so WiFi is not an option. Hoping this solves my problems!

u/shutupanddancewithme · 1 pointr/Fios

Ah I see. The ONT is the box that they installed in my home, right? That's in my basement (I think), so does that mean I would need to hook up an ethernet cable from that to my router? There's an ethernet port on the same coax outlet where the coaxial cable that connects to my current rented verizon cable is. Could that possibly also be connected to the ONT too? I guess only way to find out is to try it right? xD

Also, if you don't mind me asking (sorry for all the questions), assuming I have that the ONT stuff all set, I currently have this TP-LINK router that I was recommended by a friend. Would it be better to get this adpater or would this cheaper one work just as fine?

u/ShallowCuts · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

So I'd use this - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013J7OBUU/ref=twister_B017XMNV2Q?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 and connect that to the coax in. After that connect the filter to the TV out and connect my Ethernet cable to the Ethernet out and all should work in theory?

u/eJPV7jF32 · 1 pointr/cordcutters

There’s an Actiontec set that I have great experience with. https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Bonded-Ethernet-Adapter-ECB6200S02/dp/B013J7OBUU

Make sure to get the 2 pack if you get them. Also, depending on connection speed, you should at least go Cat 5e if not Cat6 to ensure gigabit compatibility.

u/MrUrgod · 1 pointr/verizon

Which MoCA adapter are we talking about? The ones I'm looking at are $82 on Amazon

u/danteafk · 1 pointr/Fios

You mean I could buy this here, plug the coax cable from the wall and then connect the via ethernet cable that thing with my router?

https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Bonded-Ethernet-Adapter-ECB6200S02/dp/B013J7OBUU?ref_=pe_623860_70668670

u/billj457 · 1 pointr/homelab

Just a note, you can use a MoCA to ethernet adapter to replace the need for the FiOS router (and its monthly rental fee). I'm using the older version of this and it's worked perfectly from day 1 without any setup.

https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Bonded-Ethernet-Adapter-ECB6200S02/dp/B013J7OBUU/ref=dp_ob_title_ce

u/pezdedorado · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

I assumed this was the same tech as MoCA and Fios gateways get squirrely with more than one MoCA device from what I've read on this sub. If you have the most modern router from Fios, all you need is a single MoCA box in the basement on the same coax signal from Verizon. I bought the actiontec here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013J7OBUU/ref=sxts_kp_tr_2?pf_rd_p=8778bc68-27e7-403f-8460-de48b6e788fb&pd_rd_wg=XFEyX&pf_rd_r=BPV5BKMY3445024ZM4MJ&pd_rd_i=B013J7OBUU&pd_rd_w=4b9NG&pd_rd_r=0228fe60-7514-4904-bac6-b497fa3f7195&ie=UTF8&qid=1549983003&sr=2for my dad to wire his desktop on another level. You might be able to use this one: https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Dual-Band-Wireless-Extender-Ethernet/dp/B00FKTMWDE/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1549983003&sr=1-4&keywords=actiontec+moca for up to 100Mbps for 1/5 the cost and a bonus wifi repeater.

u/SirFievel33 · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

So if I were to run cat-6 through the ceiling like you suggested to wall plates in each room...and at some point want tv in one of the rooms, would I need to buy 2 of these (Actiontec Bonded MoCA 2.0 Ethernet to Coax Adapter (ECB6200S02) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013J7OBUU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.fbPBbZ7MAQR2) and place at either end of the Ethernet connection if I wanted to place the cable TV box in the room? Or this (Sabrent HDMI Extension cable over Cat5/6 RJ45 Extender adapter (Up to 200-Feet)With power Adapter (HDMI-EXTC) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PT1A7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_VobPBb026NE2Y) and place the cable box near the patch/switch away from the room with the TV and connect the tv directly to the wall plate?

u/DrDroop · 1 pointr/homelab

You have your FiOS router plugged into the WAN1 port? Does you FiOS router have a WAN port of its own? I think technically the Ubiquiti ports can be configured for anything but you might as well use the suggested ports.

On my Ubiquiti switches it shows my modem/router as an uplink port. Does your USG show your FiOS as the same? I would definitely start by making sure DHCP and Firewall are turned off on the FiOS router. You basically want to turn it into a modem-only.

If it's anything like the crap Comcast tried to get me to use I'd suggest scrapping their setup and get yourself a replacement that just does modem duty. I have never used Verizon's FiOS so I am not sure the setup but I am sure a quick Google could link you to several verified alternatives. Maybe even something like this? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013J7OBUU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_GYTLAbHZZ9SVJ

u/mreckhof · 1 pointr/GoogleWiFi

A friend of mine switched over to an ASUS router from the FiOS provided router the other day using a MoCA 2.0 bridge on the Coax side instead of having the ONT switched over to Ethernet. If it worked for ASUS, don't see why it wouldn't work for onhub.

She said she's getting a full 500+ Mbps each way, so I suspect it's either the MoCA 2.0 or MoCA 2.0 bonded adapter.

https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Bonded-Ethernet-Adapter-ECB6200K02/dp/B013J7OBUU?th=1

If I recall, she patched the cable box via the second coax lead you'll see on the adapter.

u/YoICouldBeWrongBut · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

I recently utilized Moca at my parents house where they had DirecTV throughout the house. You can usually look up your modem model. However if you have Spectrum they do not support Moca. You can however use these adapaters wherever you want to utilize connections (one as a pass-through to your modem with the router connected to the Ethernet line) and the other where you want other connection.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013J7OBUU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9JOMDb0X5DAX8

My coax lines were not connected on the back end so I had to trace the cables from where they terminated (attic of all places) using a Coax tracer tool:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004ULX9C6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BNOMDbX347AAX

The COAX line coming from the street into your modem will need one of these MOCA filters to prevent your connection from bleeding out into other Coax lines in your area:


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DC8IEE6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BKOMDbWGSCMFN

You will also need one of these Moca splitters to connect your Modem and your other Coax line where you want the other Moca adapter to connect to:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0113JAN8K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oMOMDbYY9R53C

u/iAmNotAlwaysCorrect · 1 pointr/PFSENSE

I have seen people use this for fios to get rid of the fios router and still have tv support. I wont be much help unfortunately since i don't have tv with fios.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013J7OBUU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nwCVDbQP7BZM9

u/Croktopus · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

i think the coax is just rg6

by "that unit", do you mean the moca? i dont think so

the ethernet stuff is all tested and good (router has 5 or 6 ports, they work)

am i maybe using the wrong sort of moca adapter? would this be the sort of thing that'll actually work: https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Bonded-Ethernet-Adapter-ECB6200S02/dp/B013J7OBUU/ref=dp_ob_title_ce

u/douger1957 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

The fact that the ONT is far from your router leaves out running an ethernet cable from the ONT to your router. If you could do that, calling Frontier and having them switch your connection is a piece of cake.

A MoCA adapter is what you're looking for. It may be cheaper than a coax router.

https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Bonded-Ethernet-Adapter-ECB6200S02/dp/B013J7OBUU/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1521728348&sr=8-5&keywords=moca+adapter

u/icdawg · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

That’s what I went with too. Actiontec Bonded MoCA 2.0 Ethernet to Coax Adapter (ECB6200S02) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013J7OBUU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_h9tcMwjJjHUbh

My setup is

Demarc -> MoCA adapter -> cable modem -> router -> switch.

On the MoCA adapter, coax in comes from the demarc. Coax out goes to the cable modem. And also on the MoCA adapter I have an Ethernet cable going to my switch, which is how the MoCA adapter is receiving the Ethernet signal. The signal then travels out the MoCA adapter back down the coax line to all of the coax running in my home. I then use the 2nd MoCA adapter at the place where I want to extend my Wireless AP and have it hard-wired in.

I also have a MoCA filter at the demarc so that no MoCA signal travels beyond my home.

All purchases from Amazon.

u/captain_dylan_hunt · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

If you could solve this mystery, it could worth MILLIONS of $$$. :) Seems to happen to many people, works for years, then won't work at all. New powerline adapters don't fix problem. Most give up and look for other solutions.

If you have coax cable from your TV/Cable provider , consider using Coax to deliver your ethernet via MoCA.

https://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Bonded-Ethernet-Adapter-ECB6200S02/dp/B013J7OBUU

u/Maverick717x · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

i was thinking of getting this router with this moca adapter and use this ethernet cord. I believe the coax outlets are all connected because i took the router from upstairs and plugged it into my coax and it worked perfect. As far as speeds i mostly want to be able to set up a wired connection to my computer for gaming and be able to connect my ps4 with a wired connection and all my other devices wireless.

u/iainb78 · 1 pointr/Fios

To follow-up I ordered an Actiontec MOCA (ECB6200S02) adapter and an Orbi RBK50 mesh system.

​

My goal was to have the Orbi router in my office so it could cover that half of the house and then I'd put the satellite (with Ethernet backhaul) upstairs on the opposite side of the house to cover that side. My wiring cabinet is in the unfinished basement so putting the router down there is less than ideal.

I have two network drops in my office, let's call them "NA" and "NB". Down in the wiring cabinet I plugged the "NA" wire directly into the ONT's Ethernet port. Up in the office I connected the Orbi router's WAN port into that "NA" drop. Then I connect one of the switch ports on the Orbi router to connect into the "NB" drop, then down in the wiring cabinet put that "NB" wire into a 16-port unmanaged switch. Then all the other network cables for all the other rooms in the wiring cabinet would also go into that switch. This way everything that's wired would be behind the Orbi router.

In theory it makes sense (to me) and it should work but when I tried that the Orbi app said it didn't have a network cable connection.

(And before anyone asks - yes, both "NA" and "NB" drops in my office work. Up to this point I've had my Synology NAS on "NA" and a switch on "NB" for my computer and our network printer.)

​

To get it up and running I ended up just putting the Orbi router in the basement and connecting the WAN port directly into the ONT. The setup detected a network cable connection and completed.

Within 20 minutes of having the Orbi setup and configured the router lost its internet connection twice. Once it fixed on its own after a few minutes and the second time I had to completely reboot the router. So this thing appears to be a piece of junk. From what I read online not all versions of the Orbi firmware support Ethernet backhaul and the latest firmware (v2.2.1.210) is completely broken and has been for months with no updates. So I manually updated the router to v2.1.4.16 (per this thread). That update went fine, then I updated the satellite and it the update never completed. Then the router lost its internet connection. At this point I just pulled it all out and went back to the FiOS router.

I guess I'm going to give the Orbi stuff another shot this weekend but I don't have high hopes.

The MOCA adapter seemed to do it's job just fine. When I had it connected my Guide, DVR and onDemand was all working on my STB. So at least there's that...

Any other recommendations for a mesh system? I have a 3000sqft house (with a 1500sqft unfinished basement) and I just need good WiFi on the main floor and for the upstairs bedrooms. I also really want Ethernet backhaul since I have a network drop in every room.

As much as I'd love to have Ubiquiti I didn't have the foresight to have the builder put network drops in the ceiling everywhere so without running a bunch of cables and cutting a bunch of holes in my brand new house that leaves me with their in-wall units and I'd need one in just about every room so that gets pricey quick...

Google WiFi seems to be decent and the price is right but I've read it drops connections a lot and just isn't that fast overall. It's cheap enough I can always just throw another puck in a room when I need more coverage.

Eero is rather expensive, I'm looking at $500 for their "pro" system.

Suggestions?

u/warinthestars · 1 pointr/audio

Part 1: https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Bluetooth-Receiver-Streambot-Hands-Free/dp/B00MJMV0GU/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1518461699&sr=8-4&keywords=3.5mm+bluetooth+adapter+battery

You plug part 1 into whoever wants to play music. They can control the level coming out of their headphone jack.

Part 2: https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Adapter-Streaming-Wireless-Speakers/dp/B016NUTG5K/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1518461717&sr=8-4&keywords=bluetooth+receiver

You plug part 2 into the aux port of your stereo. You pair part 1 & 2 together. You can control the volume of your stereo and the person with the bluetooth transmitter can control the volume coming from their device. Therefore, both can control the volume. However, of course, there is an upper level. If they turn their phone up all the way, your stereo can still turn it down

u/jkcheng122 · 1 pointr/homeautomation

Have you tried looking?

A bit of Googling found this: Bluetooth Audio Adapter for Music Streaming Sound System, esinkin W29-us Wireless Audio Adapter Works with Smart Phones and Tablets, Wireless Adapter for Speakers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016NUTG5K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0j5pDbM6PA5CK

u/SmittyJonz · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

3.5 mm End is in your phone so it may be the 3.5 mm jack in the phone.? Or the 3.5 mm to rca cable.
Maybe try a Bluetooth adapter on the receiver

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Bluetooth-Audio-Adapter-Streaming/dp/B00IQBSW28

https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Adapter-Streaming-Wireless-Speakers/dp/B016NUTG5K

u/StuffSuch · 1 pointr/VIZIO_Official

Your 3.5mm to Bluetooth should work too.

This device linked below should also work.

https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Adapter-Streaming-Wireless-Speakers/dp/B016NUTG5K

u/eshirley21 · 1 pointr/DIY

I’m all for neat DIY projects, but you really just need a new 5.1 channel receiver. If the budget is a concern, you can find a cheap receiver from a pawn shop, yard sale, Craigslist, etc. and then dedicate one of the inputs to a bluetooth adapter:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016NUTG5K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_08ftDbCAB9VET

Alternatively, nearly all new home theater receivers come with Bluetooth and potentially Wi-Fi streaming capabilities, along with neat HDMI passthrough stuff your old home-theater-in-a-box likely lacked. More expensive, but worth looking into if you still want to keep those particular speakers.

And if you were looking for more of a distributed, whole-home audio set up, all you need is the aforementioned receiver and more speaker wire — cleverly hiding that can be quite the DIY project in itself. (That would likely require a dedicated streaming device or AirPlay-esque WiFi streaming to avoid Bluetooth range issues though.)

u/the_blue_wizard · 1 pointr/audio

As others have said, simply search Amazon for "Bluetooth Receiver" and pick one you like in a price range you can afford. You will find hundreds of them.

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=bluetooth+receiver&ref=nb_sb_noss_1

And then using, most likely, RCA-RCA cable of the appropriate length, connect the Bluetooth Adapter to the CD Input on the Amp, and logically select CD on the front panels source selector of the Amp.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-2-Male-RCA-Audio-Cable/dp/B01D5H8P0G/

Though there are many similar RCA-RCA Cables to choose from -

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=RCA+cable&i=electronics&ref=nb_sb_noss_2

You would prefer to have a Bluetooth Adapter that supports version 4.0 or higher, and that has the APT-X or APT-X HD feature.

The ESINKEN and the LOGITECH look pretty much identical, check the specs, but likely either one will do, both about $22 -

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Bluetooth-Audio-Adapter-Streaming/dp/B00IQBSW28/

https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Adapter-Streaming-Wireless-Speakers/dp/B016NUTG5K/

Range on the above is pretty much standard at 30ft to 50ft line-of-sight.

There are better Bluetooth Devices, but they cost a bit more money -

https://www.amazon.com/Avantree-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Receiver-Certified/dp/B01H6I3YGK/

https://www.amazon.com/Avantree-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Receiver-Simultaneously/dp/B07BQYYDNJ/

Again, how far do you want to take it, because there are Bluetooth Devices that can go well above $100.

u/omgwtfishsticks · 1 pointr/audiophile

Yes, but I think we need to get on the same page here. Your TV has a Toslink digital output - you're wanting to convert that digital to analog with a DAC. That analog signal needs to go somewhere, like powered speakers or a receiver.

In that case TV Digital Out -> DAC -> Stereo or Active Speakers

You also want a USB input for your phone. Is that for charging your phone? Most phones don't integrate via USB, they do wirelessly via Bluetooth or Airplay. If your stereo doesn't support either, you'll need a device that you can connect to via bluetooth, and send that signal to your stereo or active speakers.

In that case Phone's Bluetooth -> Bluetooth Receiver -> Stereo or Active Speakers

u/akjax · 1 pointr/BuyItForLife

Are you just wanting make some old speakers bluetooth compatible? Because there are plenty of existing products that do that job. Example

I am really confused by the article.. it seems like a LOT of work to make your own BT adapter. Why does it need to talk to the cloud to use BT? I feel like there's some additional functionality it adds but as far as I can see in the tutorial it just acts like a normal BT device.. why does it need the cloud for that?!

I guess a Pi is cheaper than most of the adapters on Amazon, but we're talking about a few bucks in the end.

u/Bananas__And__Blow · 1 pointr/vinyl

Definitely a consideration for me. Having my son at the time crawling/walking/grabbing/chewing/slobbering on everything makes you put away anything you don't want broken real quick.

I ended up being so pleased with the little Topping amp and the Dayton speakers though it's what I still prefer over the older Carver stuff.

Haven't tried the a5+ so can't give any feedback there. For bluetooth though I bought [a little bluetooth receiver just like this one:] (https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Streaming-Esinkin-Wireless-Speakers/dp/B016NUTG5K/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1486673883&sr=8-5&keywords=bluetooth+receiver) and it has worked great for me. So whatever you end up with adding bluetooth is super easy.

As you stated correctly, someone with a bigger wallet might not agree or understand. I've always gone by the logic though that a good stereo is one that gets listened to. My everyday life for the foreseeable future (7 year old kid, 3 month old puppy and not a huge house) doesn't really fit into having a dedicated listening room/area with high end components. So until then I want something that makes me want to listen to my music. The setup I have right now does exactly that.

u/Pierre_Bitant · 1 pointr/audiophile

Hi everyone, I'm completely new to this so I hope i'm not sounding too dumb. I inherited an old hifi system. It has several components including a Dual CV 1260 and a pair of these speakers I could not identify. My audio collection mainly consists of CDs and some flacs on a Sony NW-A45.

My question is : Can I use the bluetooth function of the walkman through something like this bluetooth receiver to connect to the amp and play my music, or do i need Jack to RCA cables and use it that way ?

Thanks in advance for answers

u/PunishedConstruct · 1 pointr/OLED

I appreciate your creativity.

https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Adapter-Streaming-Wireless-Speakers/dp/B016NUTG5K/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=bluetooth+audio+adapter&qid=1570689047&sr=8-3

​

So I'll plug my speakers into this via RCA and then connect to it on my TV via bluetooth. But will that let me control the volume level through the TV remote?

u/Hipp013 · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

I would get an Echo Dot. Seeing as you already have an Amazon Echo, you can probably connect the two and get whatever additional functionality that provides. I own an Echo Dot and I use it to control my amp, which directly controls my speakers and sub. Since it takes a minute to power up, I would just have it on and plugged into the wall. Or if you want it to be directly powered by the receiver, there might be a USB port or a AC plug on your receiver.

I got my Echo Dot for $35 on Prime Day, but I think they're like $50 now.

---

Edit: If you don't want to use an Echo Dot, here's what I found on Amazon.

u/illymays · 1 pointr/vinyl

Okay, last question lol. Becuase I'm tight on budget, the A2+ might be my best bet right now. If I go with that and buy a Bluetooth receiver, would any of the following suffice?

u/levicochrane · 1 pointr/vintageaudio

Hey everyone. I think I figured it out. Another thing I failed to mention was that it wasn't consistently doing this crackling sound. To better describe it, it would get quieter than the other speaker and it sounded like it had interference. Anyway, I put the back panels back and set them back up. I have some friends over so I put on a vinyl record. No problems at all. Then I connected my phone via this Bluetooth receiver and it started crackling again. I realised every time I've had this problem it's been when I'm using this receiver. So thanks for your help! I'm just stupid.

u/chdabre · 1 pointr/somethingimade

I use this with my headphones, it would be easily compatible with the speaker. If you want a more polished solution, it would also be possible to install something like this inside the enclosure.

I decided against that because I wanted the whole thing to be as simple as possible.

u/jackbkmp · 1 pointr/headphones

If you have your PC plugged into the USB on the element, buy a Bluetooth Audio Adapter and plug it into your RCA-in as a separate input.

https://www.amazon.ca/Bluetooth-Streaming-Esinkin-Wireless-Receiver/dp/B016NUTG5K/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Bluetooth+Audio+Adapter&qid=1556471751&s=gateway&sr=8-1

u/Yoyodyne_Propulsion_ · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

I have this one, and it works great:

Bluetooth Audio Adapter for Music Streaming Sound System, Esinkin Wireless Audio Adapter Works with Smart Phones and Tablets, Wireless Adapter for Speakers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016NUTG5K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_i_kxG.AbPG36XM4

u/exfrog · 1 pointr/audio

The car amps have rca in, right?
You can try a standalone Bluetooth receiver, usually outputs to 1/8'' mini (3.5 mm). Get a mini to rca and an rca splitter and hit both amps, analog rca in.

This device even has both 1/8 and rca out.
Bluetooth Audio Adapter for Music Streaming Sound System, Esinkin Wireless Audio Adapter Works with Smart Phones and Tablets, Wireless Adapter for Speakers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016NUTG5K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Suj-AbQHHAC4A

u/Magicmarker2 · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

Don’t lock yourself in to Bluetooth on the receiver. There are always add on Bluetooth receivers you can get later like this . The advantage with this method is that as Bluetooth technology changes (which happens every few years) your receiver won’t become out dated

u/clock_watcher · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

I’ve bought a couple. The first one was a no frills BT receiver. This one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B016NUTG5K/ref=sspa_mw_detail_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It worked, but the range was poor. My phone had to be close to, and in line of sight of the receiver, or I’d have connection drop outs.

The other issue was Bluetooth itself. I was sending music from my iPhone, either stored on the phone itself or from Spotify. I could hear the Bluetooth compression added to the music.

So I bought another BT device from eBay, a Chinese knock off of a $200 Audioengine branded device. Same Qualcomm chip inside, so the exact same specs. It features Apt-X and AAC over Bluetooth, so much better quality than the standard BT protocol. I could clearly hear the difference. And the range was massively improved. This is the one:

https://www.blitzwolf.com/Bluetooth-V5.0-aptX-HD-Music-Receiver-Transmitter-p-262.html

u/23jknm · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

I know this is a little old, but do you have this device and if so how do you like it? Was looking at that one or the Esinkin which looks identical. Thanks!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016NUTG5K/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A2DF5PP7S295J7&psc=1

u/Kurosaku · 1 pointr/techsupport

I highly suggest this https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-PowerLINE-1000-Mbps-Gigabit/dp/B01929ESG6/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1485755658&sr=1-1&keywords=netgear+powerline its on sale and I am using the similar one but the 1200 and I have two, Been using for 2 years now as I switch from wifi and I'm getting the best ping and speed. Everything was 5x better.

u/chrisdaley519 · 1 pointr/vridge

I'm shocked! lol That's fantastic.

If there really is no good way to run the wire, you can also try using a powerline adapter instead. A decent 500Mbps adapter set should be pretty decent, especially if the 2 plugs it's connected to are on the same breaker. It will be far superior to the wireless issues you experienced, but may not be able to get you the full 95Mbps. Rent one from a local best buy to see if fixes the issue (30 day no hassle money back guarantee!)

EDIT - Turns out even the gigabit powerline adapters are a decent price now too:
https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-PowerLINE-1000-Mbps-Gigabit/dp/B01929ESG6/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1483846046&sr=1-4&keywords=powerline+adapter

u/shawric · 1 pointr/playark

You can try directly connecting to your wifi router using Ethernet Over Power adaptors. They basically turn the powerlines in your house into Ethernet cables.

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-PowerLINE-1000-Mbps-Gigabit/dp/B01929ESG6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1483625252&sr=8-3&keywords=ethernet+over+power

u/gmundawg · 1 pointr/xboxone

I have experienced this a bunch on WiFi (Xbox One X Scorpio User). It's concerning that you are still having these issues using an Ethernet connection, as that was my hopeful solution to this lingering issue. I was planning on using Ethernet power adapters to avoid having to run a cable through my house (link below for those interested).

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-PowerLINE-1000-Mbps-Gigabit/dp/B01929ESG6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1519053449&sr=1-1&keywords=NETGEAR+Powerline+1000&dpID=41dQv6CrHzL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

u/GCPixel · 1 pointr/techsupport

Definitely a solution. Use one of these. Basically it uses your power lines to send an Ethernet signal across your home. One module is plugged into the room with modem. The other module in your room. Then you sync and connect by ethernet for maximum throughput! Good luck!

u/fireember35 · 1 pointr/googlefiber

I figured so too. Some other redditor made a suggestion for this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01929ESG6#customerReviews

u/StykerB · 1 pointr/CODZombies

Looks like during peak hours your speed gets cut by a factor of 5, if you're in a place where your wifi is the only wifi listed (no neighbor networks) then there's probably nothing you can do about it because a uncluttered wifi space is actually fairly reliable at reasonable ranges.

If there are a bunch or even just 2 or 3 networks that aren't yours then try plugging in your console/PC with an ethernet cable. A cable connection to your router will help minimize lost data packets which are the cause of random bouts of stuttery lag and disconnects.

If you can't reach an ethernet cord to your console/pc then try something like this which allows you to use your electrical wiring in your house as a network. However the quality of connection you get with something like that is highly dependent on the age of the wiring in your house and distance it has to navigate through the house.

u/Declivever · 1 pointr/networking

I think you only really have two options if running cable is out of the question.

Wireless Network Extender

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Wi-Fi-Range-Extender-EX3700/dp/B00R92CL5E/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1V6VFPS74O1AY&keywords=netgear+wifi+extender&qid=1564151119&s=gateway&sprefix=netgear%2Caps%2C149&sr=8-3

This is what is called a wireless range extender, this on has a outgoing ethernet port on the bottom. Basically, what it will do, is connect to your wireless network, and send out the signal as a secondary wireless signal and/or a wired signal. I use these at my house, and they work great for my needs.

One con is that the connection speed will be slower than a direct connection, or somebody connecting to the originating access point.

Powerline Ethernet

Another thing you can try is powerline Ethernet, I have not used it myself, and do not understand the requirements as well as I would like to yet. I have heard good things about them, however. Basically what it does is use the existing power wires in the building to carry a ethernet signal.

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-PowerLINE-1000-Mbps-Gigabit/dp/B01929ESG6/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=netgear+wireless+to+wired&qid=1564151336&s=gateway&sr=8-6

u/Aridn · 1 pointr/buildapc

A powerline adapter is a system that allows you to transmit Ethernet through your homes in-wall power lines. For many, like myself, it is a great way to get ethernet from one end of a house to another to create a hardwired connection or add another wireless access point.

The reason it works better for some, is because it is reliant on the quality of your homes powerlines and potential interference in those lines.

Edit: To use, simply plug one receiver into an outlet near your modem, running a patch cable between the two. Plug the other receiver in a location you want ethernet, and run another patch cable from it according to your needs.

an example, and the one i personally use is
https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-PowerLINE-1000-Mbps-Gigabit/dp/B01929ESG6/ref=lp_1194444_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1494641806&sr=1-2

u/spudsufc · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

That $70 pack does actually come with two adapters. If you're willing to drop down a model you can get a twin pack for $40 https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-PowerLINE-1000-Mbps-Gigabit/dp/B01929ESG6/

It's not as good as LAN, just so much easier and gets rid of most of the jitter WiFi suffers from. Just don't turn on the microwave...!

u/frcShoryuken · 1 pointr/heroesofthestorm
u/peptopro17 · 1 pointr/Ring

I had a similar problem when I had 1 router (a very good one) at the front of the house near the door bell, and tried using it to work with the floodlight (in the back at the alleyway). I could get the floodlight and router to talk, but it would lose connection from time to time. So I bought another router just like it, configured it to be a wireless bridge, and put it in the garage. The router/wirelessbridge connects to the other main router using network over power lines such as these:

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-PowerLINE-1000-Mbps-Gigabit/dp/B01929ESG6

So now, instead of 1 router at the front of the house trying to communicate with the floodlight all the way at the back of the house, the floodlight now has it's own router back there, and the two routers communicate over power lines.

u/sonsofaureus · 1 pointr/DIY_tech

Powerline adapters are not the greatest and you never get the speeds advertised on the box, but it is a cheaper solution and can be used to connect two routers via powerline. You'll also have to play with settings on the upstairs router (whether you choose the EA6100 or the comcast modem/router) to turn it into a wifi access point or not to assign DHCP.
Best long term solution would be to run the CAT6 cable inside walls and make jacks. (Same playing with routers will have to happen, but you'll have done it already for the powerline.) It's not a major remodel and can be done with some simple HomeDepot tools/supplies. It would add to the value of your building.

u/thatgermanperson · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Sadly, I don't know what's good as I always hook my PC up with Ethernet. You could use a Gigabit Power Line Adapter, plug it in at your modem and PC and enjoy an Ethernet connection.

u/snaynay · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I prefer not to recommend, as what may work for someone may not work for you. WiFi is a very situational thing. But I'll give some more information:

First, find out if your router is running (802.11) AC or N or other (G/B?). AC is the most modern, N is still OK. Are you running a 5GHz network or a 2.4GHz network? Is the PC near the router, or a fair bit away? All this makes big differences to your choice of stuff.

If you do not think signal is going to be a problem (eg your phone is full signal in your room), a USB dongle is probably the most optimal starting solution. Preferably one that works fine on default Windows drivers, so you aren't installing unnecessary junk. One with a good cable to reposition as well.

If you think signal will be a bit weak, try the PCIe option. Reason is the antenna's are bigger and better, and if needs be they are replaceable with more suitable ones.

This little guy appears to mix the best of both worlds. However, I think you'd want a USB 3.0 extension wire according to the top comment...

I personally use a bridge. If you don't have reasonable network knowledge, don't go near one. Mine took a few hours over the course of a few weeks to fully stabilise and tweak. However, if you want a little challenge in the future, have a go. It'll be able to overcome most all issues people have with WiFi if you get it right.

Best no hassle solution. A powerline adapter and a pair of suitable length ethernet cables.

u/theotherdanlynch · 1 pointr/buildapc

The nice thing about PowerLine is that it either works really well, or it's complete garbage. As long as you don't have the type of AFCI breakers that mess with them, and if your outlets are on the same phase, they then to be rock solid. Buy them from someplace with a good return policy, plug them in, and see if they work in your environment.

I have two sets of these, so two that have built in wifi and two that are just the ethernet.

  • Non-wifi 1: Connected to my router on the 1st floor
  • Non-wifi 2: Cconnected to my wife's computer on the 2nd floor
  • Wifi 1: In the living room, 2nd floor, ethernet port unused. Roku4 connects to this with wifi.
  • Wifi 2: In detached garage/workshop, ethernet port unused

    The router and both wifi powerline adaptors are set to the same SSID and password, and laptops/phones switch between them as needed.

    You could get the pair I linked above, or you could skip the wifi part and just get this pair.

    I also had a pair of these that worked just fine. The only reason I replaced them was because I wanted to add the wifi capabilities.

    Remember that the default encryption is identical for every device shipped from the factory. That means anybody who owns the same device could access your network by plugging in to an outlet on the outside of your house, or in another apartment in the same building. Leave the encryption alone when you're first setting things up, but make sure that after you've got it all working and you're happy with the performance, you go back and change the encryption so that only your devices will work together.
u/kyle0541 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Here is a Netgear powerline kit that looks good: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Powerline-1000-Essentials-PL1010-100PAS/dp/B01929ESG6/ref=sr_1_10?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1480819075&sr=1-10&keywords=powerline+adapter

I have a friend who bought this and it works great for him. Let me know if you have questions OP

u/GloriousFireball · 1 pointr/buildapc

I think you're talking about powerline adapters? There is a chance that they don't work in your house, they are hit or miss. Like you said I would try plugging into the router directly to see if it's your computer or the adapters.

u/iLoogic · 1 pointr/buildapc
u/Throbbin_Goblin · 1 pointr/techsupport

I used Netgear adapters for an install. Initially I plugged the one into the room it was going to be in and it did not get a connection at all. I changed to the outlet in the hallway and got a full speed connection. I would try switching outlets, you can even use a farther one and pick up a smaller ethernet cable. Here is the link for the adapters I used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01929ESG6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/incineratechicken · 1 pointr/Overwatch

USB Wifi adapters are bad for gaming, as USB 2.0 doesn't really have the throughput to transfer data at an acceptable rate. You'll have these problems no matter what kind of dongle you use.

Instead, I would recommend a powerline adapter such as this. They're much more reliable.

u/kokolordas15 · 1 pointr/CabaloftheBuildsmiths

The old case will not fit the GPU and its generally outdated in terms of cooling and layout.Even if the gpu could fit,the case would run hot.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01929ESG6/ In order for it to perform well it must not be plugged into a power strip and it should be part of the same circuit breaker panel.

Gsync is used along with Vsync and also an fps limiter at 142 fps.This way input lag remains extremely low and screen tearing is eliminated.

If you disable Vsync then you get screen tearing.If you do not use an fps limiter with vsync on then if you reach 144fps Vsync takes over and you get huge input lag.(not that huge but big difference).

In overwatch at least,I cannot notice screen tearing on my 144hz monitor even if I try to.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ADYzuMe17q8 this video indirectly explains how to get the most out of the Gsync technology.Data at 8:20

Lastly by using Gsync you reduce the frametime variance.

I cannot vote against Gsync because I have never experienced it.I cannot vote for it also because i definitely do not need it.The monitor below comes with freesync(amd equivalent).Maybe amd can come up with a decent GPU that will be able to run 1440p144hz in the future.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $339.99 @ Amazon
CPU Cooler | Scythe Kotetsu 79.0 CFM CPU Cooler | $39.17 @ Amazon
Motherboard | MSI Z270 GAMING M3 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $112.98 @ Newegg
Memory | Team Dark 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $99.99 @ Newegg
Storage | SK hynix SL308 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $155.99 @ SuperBiiz
Video Card | Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB Gaming OC 11G Video Card | $684.79 @ SuperBiiz
Case | Corsair 270R ATX Mid Tower Case | $57.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $69.99 @ Newegg
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $89.99 @ My Choice Software
Case Fan | ARCTIC Arctic F12 74.0 CFM 120mm Fan | $6.48 @ SuperBiiz
Case Fan | ARCTIC Arctic F12 74.0 CFM 120mm Fan | $6.48 @ SuperBiiz
Monitor | AOC I2279VWHE 21.5" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor | $99.99 @ Best Buy
Monitor | AOC I2279VWHE 21.5" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor | $99.99 @ Best Buy
Monitor | AOC AG271QX 27.0" 2560x1440 144Hz Monitor | $429.99 @ Best Buy
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $2343.81
| Mail-in rebates | -$50.00
| Total | $2293.81
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-04-28 19:06 EDT-0400 |

u/MadMyk313 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

This.

TP-Link Powerline Adapter AV2000 Mbps - Gigabit Port, Ethernet Over Power, Plug&Play, Power Saving, MU-MIMO, Noise Filtering(TL-PA9020P KIT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H74VKZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_v30vDb5QPB7MQ

Best and easiest way to jump from one side of the house to the other. Was easy to set up and works awesome. Wired speedtest from the modem is almost exactly the same DL speeds as the TP-link. About 120 feet from the modem to the room it is used in.

u/WinHac · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

I would consider trying these adapters they use the power lines jn the house to transfer the data.

TP-Link Powerline Adapter AV2000 Mbps - Gigabit Port, Ethernet Over Power, Plug&Play, Power Saving, MU-MIMO, Noise Filtering(TL-PA9020P KIT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H74VKZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GyprDbD88P9KT

u/ekko20six · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

TP-Link Powerline Adapter AV2000 Mbps - Gigabit Port, Ethernet Over Power, Plug&Play, Power Saving, MU-MIMO, Noise Filtering(TL-PA9020P KIT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H74VKZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_O5AADbP6JH6VF

u/Blais_Of_Glory · 1 pointr/techsupport

It's super easy. I never did it before either, and I'm a female who has zero experience with house repairs. I can build a computer but don't know a damn thing about house repairs like electricity, plumbing, or anything like that. Basically, my dad just used his drill, drilled a small hole and went into the basement and we snaked the ethernet cord up through to my room.

If you want to get a new router, I would recomend getting a Linksys WRT AC1200 Dual-Band and Wi-Fi Wireless Router with Gigabit and USB 3.0 Ports and eSATA. I have the model that's slightly higher, the Linksys WRT1900ACS Dual-Band Smart Wi-Fi Gigabit Router, but I don't think you would need to spend that much unless you wanted to.

Or you could get a powerline adapter or wireless range extender. You could get the TP-LINK AV500 AC750 Wi-Fi Range Extender, Powerline Edition (TL-WPA4530 KIT) which has both and currently has a $10 off coupon. Obviously, ethernet is always better than wireless if possible. Make sure what you get can handle the speed of your modem/router. You can do a speed test with any of these websites (I typically check a few different websites and then average the speed): Ookla Speed Test, CNET Speed Test, Source Forge Speed Test, Bandwith Place Speed Test, SpeedTest.Org, e-Speed Test, SpeedOf.Me Speed Test, Speak Easy Speed Test, Verizon Speed Test, Charter Speed Test.

Remember, if you make any purchase with Amazon, always use Amazon Smile which donates a portion of your purchase to a charity of your choice. So instead of going to http://www.amazon.com, always go to http://smile.amazon.com and help someone out.

u/cardboardbrobot · 1 pointr/Edmonton

http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/lanwan/lanwan-reviews/32857-actiontec-ecb6200-bonded-moca-2-0-network-adapter-reviewed

Moca 2.0 adapters are the closest thing you could get to GB bandwidth without Cat cables.

Alternatively, I would recommend these.
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01H74VKZU/ref=asc_df_B01H74VKZU4509123/?tag=shopbotca-20&creative=395285&creativeASIN=B01H74VKZU&linkCode=df0
the TP-link -PA9020P

Just make sure they're on the same circuit and not going through any power junction boxes like the main junction or anything like that.

u/9gxa05s8fa8sh · 1 pointr/bapcsalescanada

r7800 / xr500 for good wifi in general https://www.amazon.ca/Netgear-Nighthawk-Router-Wireless-Ethernet/dp/B07F8N2VHD

> mainly want something that will be able to stream 4k to my tv

forget wifi and get a powerline ethernet adapter for that

https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-Powerline-Pass-through-TL-PA9020P-KIT/dp/B01H74VKZU

https://www.amazon.ca/Netgear-Powerline-Adapter-Ethernet-Passthrough/dp/B0778Y6K6N

u/ibbenator · 1 pointr/teslamotors

I have a detached garage far from the house and use a TP-link (https://smile.amazon.com/TP-Link-Powerline-Pass-Through-TL-PA9020P-KIT/dp/B01H74VKZU/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?keywords=powerlink+internet&qid=1556865076&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmr0). Plug into outlet. Plug in line from modem. Plug other unit into the garage. Plug wifi into that. As long as it is the same wiring in the garage as the main house, this should work. Works great for me. Much more effective than wifi extenders.

u/mrsolo · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Do not mix match brand and model. Even though hpav2 should be compatible, on paper. The reality is that Broadcom based product such as Tplink av2000 will not work with Qualcomm based on such as Netgear [pl1200]
(https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-PowerLINE-1200-Gigabit-PL1200-100PAS/dp/B00S6DBGJM).

Better be safe than sorry, pick the same model/brand.

u/sleepygeeks · 1 pointr/PS4

The brand does not really matter, I'm using these for my nieces desktop and ps4.

She plays league of legends and overwatch as well as some Korean MMO's, She has no latency/bandwidth problems.

The PS4s wireless is absloute trash, The power line adapters are the way to go if you don't want to run cables.

u/TCR624 · 1 pointr/buildapc

TP-Link Powerline Adapter AV2000 Mbps - Gigabit Port, Ethernet Over Power, Plug&Play, Power Saving, MU-MIMO, Noise Filtering(TL-PA9020P KIT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H74VKZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6TwDCbR0E0ZYJ



There are less expensive models just first one I found to show you what you need. Never use WiFi again my man, these work works and basically turn your power outlets into Ethernet access.

u/Bluezebra2 · 1 pointr/computers

Have you check the router where it is plugged in to? Depending on how you route cords through your house you may have unplugged it from the router. Or you jacked the cord itself up, I doubt you broke the port itself in my experience the little clip on the Ethernet cord breaks before the port does but anything is possible. If you did break the port there are several USB to Ethernet adapters and you can always get a WiFi dongle.

USB to Ethernet:
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Ethernet-Network-Adapter/dp/B00ET4KHJ2

WiFi dongle:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mini-Wifi-Wireless-Adapter-Launch-Receiver-Wifi-Antenna-NEW-300Mbps-Hight-Definition-TV-Wireless-Card-Adapter-Black-USB-2-0/228901434?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=2342&adid=22222222228064834797&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=169233446382&wl4=pla-467415820952&wl5=9017272&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=113515901&wl11=online&wl12=228901434&wl13=&veh=sem

u/Olliegil · 1 pointr/buildapc

I believe I broke the Ethernet port as it does not snap in and connect. I tested the cable on my other computer and it works. I am buying an adaptor so I can still have a wired Ethernet connection. https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Ethernet-Adapter-Supporting/dp/B00ET4KHJ2

u/SuperWackSauce · 1 pointr/smashbros
u/Ecchii · 1 pointr/techsupport

Oh you mean something like this? I already have one, didn't think about that. Wouldn't it affect connection quality though?

Seems like it would affect ping(?)

u/NikoHambone · 1 pointr/techsupport

Using W10 media creation tool, you should in theory have all the updates (or at least all the ones that matter). I would uninstall the netgear/TP Link drivers, go into device manager and disable/uninstall the wna3100 and WN823N. Might as well run a system file check to repair any missing system or registry files during the upgrade then reboot computer and install the drivers again.


And if all else fails, Powerline Adapter + Ethernet USB adapter is a good solution as well, since you don't want to deal with long cables

u/Zorac877 · 1 pointr/smashbros

How do you think this would fare? I have some amazon credit Im wanting to use up.

u/TheChocolateLava · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

Thanks for the advice by the way!

I'm using this one

u/RenegadePM · 1 pointr/techsupport

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ET4KHJ2 This is the type of thing I'm referring to. Most people don't have one, but I figured I'd ask.



See if the Asus website has an update for your Ethernet and/or firmware. As a prior Asus owner, I know they like to release some updates only on their website.


How old is the computer? Has the Ethernet worked previously? When did it stop and did anything else change around that time? Maybe a Windows update?

u/markahoto · 1 pointr/buildapc

The cheapest and best option (which I use over my dedicated pcie card) is this panda wireless adapter. It does get hot, and would sometimes thermal throttle on my front usb ports if all them were in use. But gives me 5 bar connection from my room(weakest connection in my house)

u/immaturducken · 1 pointr/csgo

Hello,

I kinda had a problem like this a while ago, and it took me quite some time to determine what was going on, which, as it turns out, wasn't related to Steam or CSGO. Despite what others have said, for me it was a hardware (or firmware) issue. Anyway, here's what I figured out...

I run a Wifi setup because where I'm located I am not physically close to my router for LAN. My problem was similar to yours in so much that attempting to download updates would either corrupt the game, or end up with saying the download was corrupt. In any case, it turned out to be my primary WLAN card. To fix the situation, I swapped over to my secondary WLAN card and, go figure, update downloads started working just fine again with no corruptions of any kind. Not entirely sure what the issue is, considering the primary card works just fine for every other application, but this is the root of the problem, so changing up your cards is your best bet. If you don't have more than one, or if you use LAN vs WLAN, here's what I'd suggest you do...

For WLAN setup:

  • First off, try using LAN over WLAN if feasible. If not, keep reading...
  • Change to a different wireless card. If you don't have one, buy another cheap one from Amazon. [This] (http://www.amazon.com/Panda-Wireless-PAU06-300Mbps-Adapter/dp/B00JDVRCI0/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1463330990&sr=1-6&keywords=usb+wireless+adapter) USB wireless adapter works just fine. I don't recommend things I haven't used myself.
  • With the two cards installed (once you have two), make sure you are using the new one.
  • Go to Control Panel > Network and Sharing Center > Change Adapter Settings > Right click on the OLD adapter > Disable > Now make sure you can connect with the new adapter > Restart Steam and try downloading updates again

    For LAN setup (physical cable from router to PC):

  • Given that most computer only have one ethernet port, you options are limited.
  • Try wireless like above, recommendation on wireless adapter still stands.
  • Try a USB ethernet adapter. In this case, [this] (http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Ethernet-Network-Adapter-Chromebook/dp/B00484IEJS?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00) one should do just fine. I use it for my Chromebook in areas with only LAN access.
  • With the USB adapter installed, make sure you are using it.
  • Go to Control Panel > Network and Sharing Center > Change Adapter Settings > Right click your built in LAN port > Disable > Now make sure you can connect with the new adapter > Restart Steam and try downloading updates again

    If none of that works, the only other option I'd suggest to you that I didn't see listed here already is changing your download region in Steam.

  • Go to Steam > Settings > Download > Download Region > Change this to any region WELL AWAY from your current one, which is typically the one closest to you.
  • After change, restart Steam and try downloads again.

    The region change did not work for me, but did for many others, so that's the only reason why I mention it. In any case good luck!
u/iCeCoCaCoLa64 · 1 pointr/buildapcforme
  1. I'd recommend not using Wi-Fi on a desktop computer, but if you need to, you'll have to buy a USB Wi-Fi receiver. I recommend this one.

  2. The stock cooler on the i5-6500 is fine in my opinion, but if you want an upgrade, then you can splurge an extra $30 on a Hyper 212 EVO.
u/CurseOfAspiration · 1 pointr/HowToHack

The 722n v2 doesnt support monitor mode. Instead I would recommend a Panda PAU06, it is about the same price and supports kali.

Edit: https://www.amazon.com/Panda-Wireless-PAU06-300Mbps-Adapter/dp/B00JDVRCI0

u/wallet_man · 1 pointr/EtherMining

Did you find a better alternative? http://www.amazon.com/Panda-Wireless-PAU06-300Mbps-Adapter/dp/B00JDVRCI0 Seems to be the most promising under the $20 range.

u/jrallen7 · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

I can't compare it to one without an antenna, but I use the following adapter with my rpis and it works like a charm:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JDVRCI0/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1457638641&sr=1-1&keywords=pau06

u/BoxMasterX · 1 pointr/techsupport

The issue lies in your WiFi adapter on your laptop, usually the default ones are not so great. You will want to get a WiFI adapter that can handle your internet speeds, so if your down speed is 100 Mbps then you want a wifi adapter capable of that speed. One here for $20 that has High gain antenna and capable of up to 300 Mbps =)

u/DramaticPlatypus · 1 pointr/CSULB

yep, got me one of these. thanks for the heads up.

u/UncleBlob · 1 pointr/computers

Are you referring to USB adapters? What is your price point?
The Panda PAU06 has good reviews on Amazon and is cheaper than most dual band adapters of comparable quality. I personally own the Linksys WUSB6300 and the TP-Link Archer T4U, both are good and the Archer works really easily with Linux as well, if that's your thing.

u/RHYTHM_GMZ · 1 pointr/hacking

I just finished an Evil Twin AP project a few days ago using monitor mode and packet injection. This is what I used:
https://www.amazon.com/Panda-Wireless-PAU06-300Mbps-Adapter/dp/B00JDVRCI0/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=panda+pau06&qid=1558221919&s=gateway&sr=8-3

u/I_Got_2_Pickles · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

It's most likely the dongle. I'm not sure but it might be Broadcom and those don't play well with Linux. The Panda PAU06 is plug and play apparently. You could also try asking over at /r/linuxhardware for help choosing.

Edit: You could also try this: https://blog.danielscrivano.com/installing-rtl8812au-on-linux-for-wireless-dual-band-usb-adapters/

u/kingcardboard · 1 pointr/buildapc

If you want a USB adapter that works, for the year or so my buddies and I have had it at least, this one works good for everything I've ever needed. I've used it in two rigs because I can't run a jack to my room and it's never let me down, not to expensive either.

u/therankin · 1 pointr/dataisbeautiful

I've always had a good experience with Panda..
Panda Wireless PAU09 N600 Dual Band (2.4GHz and 5GHz) Wireless N USB Adapter W/ Dual 5dBi Antennas - Windows XP/Vista/7/8/8.1/10, Mint, Ubuntu, openSUSE, Fedora, CentOS, Kali Linux and Raspbian https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LY35HGO/

Or (if you want it more portable but not as strong)...

Panda Wireless PAU06 300Mbps N USB Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JDVRCI0/

u/baaldlam · 1 pointr/computers

Would this work? Panda 300Mbps Wireless N USB Adapter - Windows XP/Vista/7/8/8.1/10, Mint, Ubuntu, Fedora, openSUSE, CentOS, Zorin, Kali Linux and Raspbian Wheezy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JDVRCI0/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_FY.CwbJSFMDWB

u/timmygdizzle · 1 pointr/buildapc

Well you'd be best off with a good wireless card for your computer rather than one of those weird adapters. The less adapters/ devices in the mix the faster it will be. Like this one is a little nicer one but still inexpensive:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JDVRCI0/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_mdKCwbYNYY3EV

u/ghostabdi · 1 pointr/HowToHack

Its probably the chip set, I bet it is an atheros, those tend to play nice, some do others don't, why? Well you are going to need someone more techy than me to find out. My best guess is from a prior experience when I had to put a card into monitor mode, it didn't happen so I suppose its drivers are crap for linux.

Anyway I would also think its probably better to put a few more dollars in to get the external antenna variant, [here.] (http://www.amazon.com/Panda-300Mbps-Wireless-USB-Adapter/dp/B00JDVRCI0/ref=pd_sim_147_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=41aN7RPsG8L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0QPVQV93ZEDN2SRKPXD5)

u/TuffActinTinactin · 1 pointr/linuxmint

Some devices of the same class work better than others. A N300 adapter should be able to max out at around 30MB per second, which is plenty and probably higher than your internet bandwidth. If you transfer large files on a local network an AC wifi adaptor might be better.
I don't know any good Linux compatible ones off hand, but this N300 one might have better range.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JDVRCI0?m=A1K5RDMQ6V4659

Anyways good luck.

u/Ah-a-talking-muffin · 1 pointr/Ubuntu

I bought this one and have tried it out on various Ubuntu flavors on 18.04.3, 19.04, and 19.10 and it has worked flawlessly on all of them.

Edit: it also works very well at distance, at least when there isn’t any interference.

u/skracer · 1 pointr/buildapc

I had that one and returned it after hours of frustration trying to get it to work on Windows 10. Maybe someone got it to work but I'm not going out of my way for a new wifi adapter I paid for.

I currently have this one and it's working fine for me, it's a USB adapter though. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JDVRCI0/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_awdm_x_2z4gybQ51B79Y

u/Shitty_Paint_Artist · 1 pointr/computers

Laptops are nice because everything is wrapped up into one thing, so you don't need to buy everything (monitor, mouse, keyboard, etc). Unfortunately they just don't offer the same performance and reliability as a desktop does.

Do you have a desk to use for this? I think I have a decent computer picked out, but if your budget needs to factor in a desk we're in trouble. The desktop is on Newegg, but the rest is Amazon so you will be able to use your card.

Realistically I would expect this desktop to last 2-3 years until you might want to change something. This is the nice thing about desktops, you can generally add/change parts as you go instead of buying an entirely new computer. I wouldn't say you're expecting too much, but realize this computer is on the lower end but capable. You should be able to do everything you've listed to some degree. Some things (like editing video) may go slow because it does have a budget processor.

Here's the links to the parts so far. We can tweak things as needed.

Computer Adapter Monitor Speakers = ~$435

A note on the speakers, you may be able to get even cheaper ones (if you even need them), though usually cheaper speakers have a "buzzing noise." However, Amazon has these and the reviews seem great.

Another note, you could save $10 on the adapter too, since it seems you won't be needing a great connection. That is up to you though. Here's a cheaper one.

u/AnotherMasterMind · 1 pointr/linuxmint

I recently got this off amazon and it works perfectly.

I have a decent realtek card in the machine and spent days researching how to make it work but it just wouldn't. But this Panda product was just plug in and instantly, wifi.

u/kimk1995 · 1 pointr/buildapc

My thermal signs are fine according to my BIOS page, the lag is mostly caused by frame rates i believe as it looks great in the start up screen but once i try to enter a game, it the whole application slows down a lot, frame rates jump from 60 to 200. For my internet, i use a panda wireless connector and my internet connection speed is not too shabby i think (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JDVRCI0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

u/dbrucesu · 1 pointr/buildapc
u/KiwiFrankencop1 · 1 pointr/buildapc

>with wi-fi from the factory, or one with no wifi + a wifi adaptor?

Depends how much money you stand to save by purchasing a board without WiFi. For 15USD I bought this USB WiFi dongle and it's served me well. Absolutely no issues at all, even in my current situation where I'm 2 floors away from the access point.

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JDVRCI0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/gthrift · 1 pointr/AndroidTV

UGREEN 3 Ports USB 3.0 Hub with 10/100/1000Mbps Gigabit
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LLUEJFU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Q6KCybZT06YGF

Here's the one I got. Works well for me.

u/Shlappz · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

I went through 3 different adapters trying to find one that worked, and here’s what I learned.

The best ways to tell if a LAN adapter works with the Switch is either that it has “for Nintendo Switch” in the name or that it specifically uses the ASIX AX88179 chipset. Usually the chipset will either be in the product specifications, or you can just copy and paste it into your search and many will have the chipset in the title.

The adapter I ended up getting that worked is this one. That however also has three extra USB ports. If you don’t need that, they make a cheaper base model here. If you really want to stay below $15, I would say that’s your best bet.

Hope that helped.

u/Messatsu92 · 1 pointr/AndroidTV
u/IllestRolla · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

They sure do.

I bought: https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Ethernet-1000Mbps-Nintendo-Chromebook/dp/B00LLUEJFU

Which I like over the non hub versions as I like the added ports and use an 8bitdo adapter that I leave plugged in to it.

u/kizersosay28 · 1 pointr/MiBox

Here it is. UGREEN Ethernet Adapter USB Gigabit Network Adapter 10/100/1000Mbps/1 Gbps with USB 3.0 Hub 3 Ports for Nintendo Switch, Windows Surface Pro, MacBook Air/Retina, iMac Pro, Chromebook, and More PC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LLUEJFU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fOIACbW4JBJGW


They have one without the Ethernet adapter for about $12

u/mcslackens · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

I've got this one, and I haven't noticed my Switch running hot at all. The dock is placed behind my tv with plenty of ventilation though.

u/RichA5 · 1 pointr/AndroidTV

I purchased this USB 3.0 hub when I first got the Mibox a few months ago and it is working great.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LLUEJFU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I still have an issue with certain types of videos, I got a free Vudu movie (Tmo Tuesdays last week) I chose the HDX version and even though I was wired, it was pixelating every 5 seconds, tried casting it, same issue. Since I got the HDX version I was able to choose the SD version as , I had to do this via the app on my Android phone and cast it and it worked great. Only issue so far.

u/pzea · 1 pointr/smashbros

This one seems pretty good to me: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LLUEJFU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

I'm not sure if it has been mentioned here but I really like that it also gives you some extra usb slots along with being an ethernet adapter. Something to think about assuming it's fully compatible.

u/LeKisama · 1 pointr/smashbros

I like to use both my front USB ports and a game cube adapter so I bought this on amazon, plug it into the back and you got a LAN adapter plus room for a game cube adapter while leaving the front open for pro controller charging, ect.

u/bobj33 · 1 pointr/DataHoarder

I've got one of these. I think I was getting 90MBytes/s in Linux. No extra drivers required.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LLUEJFU/

u/darknessgp · 1 pointr/AndroidTV

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LLUEJFU

Here's the link, I bought this one too. Works great. Yea, the MiBox is USB 2, so you won't get the full gigabit speed, but I get more than 100Mbit/s. Doing a speedtest via fast.com on my 150 mbps connection, I get what I do via a PC about 160... IMO, it's worth it to get the usb 3 gigabit adapter, you won't get gigabit speed, but you'll get more than 100mbit which is what you'd cap yourself at with a usb 2 adapters.

The reason I got mine was for some reason the mi box was messing up my router's 5 ghz network. If I left the mi box on the 2.5 Ghz network, everything would work fine, but then I'd get speed issues with it buffering more. Switch to 5 Ghz, buffering went away but randomly usually every 2-6 hours, my router's 5 Ghz network would stop working and then suddenly come back after 15 minutes... Switched the mi box to ethernet and disabled wifi and no more problems.

u/alhceljag · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

yeah, you can search on amazon. there are several that are compatible. I bought this one, because it has a usb hub too for charging pro controller. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LLUEJFU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/XeonMartzilla · 1 pointr/firetvstick

CABLED MOUSE AND KEYBOARD WORKS WITH FIRE STICK!!!!!

If anyone ever find this, it seems there is no big problem if you just put in an cabled USB Keyboard/mouse into the stick via OTG Cable and/or a USB HUB.

I just did put an random cabled Keyboard/Mouse(5€) into the hub/OTG and it worked, the mouse did took some minutes, or i had to restart the stick, before it worked.
I have not tested much arround if how good it works in all the apps.
Only Problem so far, there seem to be no Home or Return Key Combination, while im in an app, i have to use The TV Remote, or Stick TV Remote for that so far.

The HUB also worked with mouse/Keyboard and LAN connected at the same time, cause there can be problems if there is not enough power from the FIRE STICK TV Power supply.

I USED THIS CABLE

https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00V9XS4V4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

AND THIS HUB
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00LLUEJFU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/AstariiFilms · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

hmm, i didn't even know they made those kinds of adapters. do you know if this one is good? https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Micro-B-Ethernet-Raspberry-AX88772A/dp/B00RM3KXAU/ref=cm_cr_dp_asin_lnk

u/Prochovask · 1 pointr/Chromecast

You can use a micro USB adapter like [this one] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RM3KXAU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_73XKAb1Z0AJZE)

Although to be honest, part of the beauty of the Chromecast is how unobtrusive it is. If you really want the functionality of the device without adding more wires, I'd consider getting a gen 2 and seeing if that works better.

u/tacojedi · 1 pointr/Moto_Z

Just confirmed the OTG cable/flash drive combo works with my wife's Moto G5 but not my Dell Ethernet adapter.

I tried another brand of type c to micro adapters but still nothing on my Z.

I found this adapter which specifically mentions Android support and the product page has a customer submitted compatibility table where someone used it with a Z Force -- https://plugable.com/products/usb2-otge100/

Amazon link -- https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Micro-B-Ethernet-Adapter-Raspberry/dp/B00RM3KXAU

Good luck

u/ggotnomoney · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

I don't think it's a matter of how close it is but I could be wrong. I used the pluggable usb ethernet adapter for om Amazon.

Plugable USB 2.0 OTG Micro-B to 10/100 Fast Ethernet Adapter Compatible with Windows Tablets & Raspberry Pi Zero (ASIX AX88772A chipset). https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RM3KXAU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_p17kDbTNZ15EB

u/JQuilty · 1 pointr/homelab

Why Jessie? Jessie is almost EOL. Use Buster: https://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads/raspbian/

Once you have Buster installed, you should be able to ssh into it. I don't recall if you needed to run it as root to get it to fully work, but for saftey, when you ssh into it, first log into the root account by using the su command, then run the curl line above. At that point it should just allow you to configure it via the browser.

Also, I would strongly suggest running Pihole via ethernet instead of wireless via an adapter like this: https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Ethernet-Compatible-Raspberry-AX88772A/dp/B00RM3KXAU/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=microsub+to+ethernet&qid=1566014433&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spell

With this, there's never a need to drag the Pi out to a display to configure the wifi, it'll just get an IP from your DHCP server automatically and you can manage it via ssh. Plus, you don't have any latency or interference on using it as a DNS server.

u/tearsofsadness · 1 pointr/theNvidiaShield

I just tested this and it works....

http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Micro-B-Ethernet-Raspberry-AX88772A/dp/B00RM3KXAU

I've been using it with my Nexus Player for a while and no issues.

u/Teddyjo · 1 pointr/google

It should work but just get this since you don't need the plug or anything

Plugable USB 2.0 OTG Micro-B to 10/100 Fast Ethernet Adapter for Windows Tablets & Raspberry Pi Zero (ASIX AX88772A chipset) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RM3KXAU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_P8PCxbBH6WJ62

u/JimboLodisC · 1 pointr/AndroidTV

I used to use a microUSB->RJ45 adapter on my Nexus Player. People do the same thing with the Mi Box. The Shield TV comes with an ethernet port built-in.

u/verse_chorus_curse · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

This: Can't recommend it enough, and the second piece of equipment bought from this company that has worked perfectly (the other being a bluetooth dongle, but I digress): https://www.amazon.co.uk/Plugable-Micro-B-Ethernet-Raspberry-AX88772A/dp/B00RM3KXAU

u/Neoooo94 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Is your phone an android one?
If its android you can share the LTE with this 13$ Micro USB to LAN adaptor:
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Micro-B-Ethernet-Raspberry-AX88772A/dp/B00RM3KXAU

u/foundfootagefan · 1 pointr/nexusplayer
u/scapa_flow- · 1 pointr/pihole

Would a micro-usb to ethernet dongle work? Like this: https://www.amazon.ca/Plugable-Ethernet-Compatible-Raspberry-AX88772A/dp/B00RM3KXAU/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=microusb+to+ethernet&qid=1574044294&sr=8-3

Looks like it would simply based on the description.

u/Chjapa · 1 pointr/AndroidTV

This one as well works great on my Nexus player:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RM3KXAU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Been using that for a year with no issues, even took a lightning hit (ISYN) last Sat. and works great.

u/Spledos · 1 pointr/Calyx

So far I can share that the the UGREEN for FireTV, etc (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N1X28F1) doesn't work. At all.

The same with the Pluggable USB 2.0 OTG Micro-B adapter (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RM3KXAU). Nothing.

The Linksys USB3GIGV1 gets there partway. The kernel identifies and it and loads the RTL8192 driver. There is something else that prevents it from working. I haven't figured that part out yet.

Using these to insert power https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FY9Z9GD.

u/ZeroSaber39 · 1 pointr/grandorder

Welcome, another good thing about it is that it's an unlocked phone so if they don't offer it you can buy it and take it to any carrier you want. As a side note another thing I personally like about it is it's compatible with the plugable usb ethernet adapter

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RM3KXAU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

May not be an issue for you but figured I'd mention it just in case. I don't have an unlimited data plan and even if I did I live in a rural area and don't get signal in my house nor do I have a wifi router but I can use that to plug my phone into my normal wired router and play GO over my wired internet.

Also one last little nitpick that I found a tiny bit annoying but not a big deal is it doesn't support HDMI connection to a TV so you can't hook your phone to a tv and play on it unless you use something like Chrome cast. But considering I use my phones usb port to connect to the internet in when in my house using a wired option to connect to my TV wasn't really an option anyway.

u/WalrusSwarm · 1 pointr/pihole

Off topic:
What Ethernet adapter are you using?
I ordered an adapter last week to set up my Pi-Hole network wide. I returned the one that I ordered because it kept dropping my connection. I couldn't apt-get update, even my SSH tunnel kept collapsing. I returned the defective one and ordered this one instead. https://amzn.com/B00RM3KXAU hopefully it works better.

u/westbury2017 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Try the adapters that use your electrical wires in your house as a Ethernet cable. Put one at your modem and then one where you want your new wifi. Or connect the Ethernet to whatever you need. Just plug it into any outlet on the wall

Edit: NETGEAR Powerline 1200 + Extra Outlet (PLP1200) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00S6DBGIS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rvFlDbTASVV86

u/senormano · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

> i've put up repeaters off of the network, that can then give the MicroCell ... the signal it needs.

What specific devices are you using to do this?

> I'm thinking of taking out the Routers being used as repeaters and running via POE

The references to "routers" and "repeaters" is throwing me here. What devices and settings are your referring to?

My understanding of the AT&T Microcell products is that they require an Ethernet input and emulate a cellular tower to effectively give you VoIP through your mobile phone.


The questions suggest that you don't have Ethernet (cat5/6) cabling going to the rooms were you want to place the Microcells. You have three basic options:

  1. Run network cabling to reach those Microcells.

  2. Use wireless-ethernet bridge that joins your WiFi network to provide connectivity to the Microcell (like [this] (http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-WNCE3001/dp/B005N6XBDO?ie=UTF8&keywords=wifi%20ethernet%20bridge&qid=1465344380&ref_=sr_1_2&sr=8-2) ).

  3. Use a powerline-ethernet system (like [this] (http://www.amazon.com/Netgear-Powerline-Extra-Outlet-PLP1200-100PAS/dp/B00S6DBGIS?ie=UTF8&keywords=powerline%20ethernet&qid=1465344196&ref_=sr_1_4&sr=8-4) ).

    Note that the above are examples, not necessarily recommendations on specific products.
u/Not_dr_phil · 1 pointr/Ice_Poseidon

I recommend this one

I have the same one, and ive never had a more stable connection

u/aquastorm · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Which power line adapter do you have?

I have the Netgear Powerline 1200 and Extra Outlet (PLP1200-100PAS) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S6DBGIS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_X5GnxbT8GARPY

u/SuperGiraffe · 1 pointr/bapcsalescanada

Not strictly PC related, but I had a question about Powerline Adapters. My PC is in my room, about 50ft from the router in the living room, and I was wondering what kind of realistic speeds I'd get with this (Amazon link). Now obviously I wouldn't get 1200 mbps DL for internet, but would it be a worthy investment if I purchased this instead of opting for wifi adapter for my desktop? (unfortunately cat6 is out of the question since the landlord doesn't want cables lying around or nailed against the wall).

u/Kestre333 · 1 pointr/Vive

If you can, consider internet over power line: https://www.amazon.com/Netgear-Powerline-Extra-Outlet-PLP1200-100PAS/dp/B00S6DBGIS/

That will avoid the wifi interruptions due to the Vive hardware.


u/thetrapjesus · 1 pointr/buildapc

Is there any functional difference between these two powerline adapters?

newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833181534&cm_re=ZyXEL_PLA5456KITHomePlug--33-181-534-_-Product

and

amazon.com/dp/B00S6DBGIS/?tag=thewire06-20&linkCode=xm2&ascsubtag=WC30800

u/rinikulous · 1 pointr/PS4

Try this powerline adapter. Works great, not as good as true Ethernet cable, but better than Wi-Fi assuming your outlets are in the same circuit (most homes are, apts vary).

u/Protonion · 1 pointr/buildapc

Huh? That's just a WiFi network extender, takes the WiFi signal and creates it's own stronger network to extend that. Did you mean powerline ethernet adapters, like this? With those you are right, they practically never reach gigabit ethernet speeds, but 500 Mbits/s is entirely realistic. They do that by sending very high frequency signals (high enough that they don't bother other devices that are plugged in) via your existing power wires, and then decode those at the other end.

u/kuppajava · 1 pointr/Steam_Link

This should be more than enough so if it is too expensive, go down one level to the 1000 model instead of the 1200. From what I have read the numbers they are using are "lab numbers" but you will get something close to wired without having to run lines and drill holes, beware however that this will depend on your power wiring and also distance can affect it. My brother has a pair of the 1000 units (they usually come in pairs) and for him this works as good as ethernet for his use. I live in an apartment so I just ran a 50ft Cat5e line to the Steamlink instead, but I would get this if I had it all to do over again instead of drilling the walls.

u/ryios · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

You don't need to run an ethernet cable through the house. You can run ethernet through a standard 120AC outlet using an adapter:

This is how I get wired ethernet from my router to my bedroom without having to put the router in my room or use wifi on my Roku3.

http://www.amazon.com/Netgear-Powerline-Extra-Outlet-PLP1200-100PAS/dp/B00S6DBGIS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1449178354&sr=8-3&keywords=ethernet+through+power+outlet

u/peakmw3 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

> http://www.amazon.com/Netgear-Powerline-Extra-Outlet-PLP1200-100PAS/dp/B00S6DBGIS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1449178354&sr=8-3&keywords=ethernet+through+power+outlet

I tried that, well my friend did. He bought it (similar model) and he couldn't get it working, he told me not to buy it so I did not. Seems like a really cool thing tho, might have to check it out anyway if it goes on sale.

u/youvegotmalegt · 1 pointr/perktv

What you need is Powerline Adapter like this one.

You connect 1 to your main router, and then the other to your spare router.

u/IIDragonPhoeniX · 1 pointr/buildapc

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor | $299.99 @ Amazon
CPU Cooler | NZXT Kraken X52 Liquid CPU Cooler | $149.99
Motherboard | Asus MAXIMUS VIII GENE Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $199.99 @ Amazon
Memory | G.Skill TridentZ Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | $129.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $129.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Hitachi Travelstar 1TB 2.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $57.98 @ Amazon
Video Card | Asus GeForce GTX 1080 8GB STRIX Video Card | $678.99 @ SuperBiiz
Case | Fractal Design Define Mini C with Window MicroATX Mid Tower Case | $79.99 @ NCIX US
Power Supply | SeaSonic 660W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $118.99 @ SuperBiiz
Case Fan | NoiseBlocker NB-eLoop B12-PS 58.1 CFM 120mm Fan | $19.99 @ Amazon
Case Fan | NoiseBlocker NB-eLoop B12-PS 58.1 CFM 120mm Fan | $19.99 @ Amazon
Mouse | Corsair M65 RGB Wired Laser Mouse | $59.99 @ Corsair
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $1945.87
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-11-23 20:41 EST-0500 |

If you can't use an ethernet connection for the system use this NETGEAR Powerline 1200 and Extra Outlet (PLP1200-100PAS) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S6DBGIS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hxKnyb2V6Z8D4

Lower latency faster Ram, extra fans for either better cooling or to replace any loud case fans, my recommendation for the most comfortable mouse for gaming, an excellent power supply. You should be able to run most games on 4K with that card at a stable 60hz, you may have to lower settings on some poorly optimized games.


Here is a much smaller higher quality case the Caselabs BH4 , link to a similar build.
https://pcpartpicker.com/b/4YyfrH#description

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor | $299.99 @ Amazon
CPU Cooler | NZXT Kraken X52 Liquid CPU Cooler | $149.99
Motherboard | Asus MAXIMUS VIII GENE Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $199.99 @ Amazon
Memory | G.Skill TridentZ Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | $126.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $129.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Hitachi Travelstar 1TB 2.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $55.33 @ Amazon
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Superclocked Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card | $629.99 @ Jet
Power Supply | Corsair SF 600W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular SFX Power Supply | $119.99 @ Amazon
Case Fan | NoiseBlocker NB-eLoop B12-PS 58.1 CFM 120mm Fan | $19.99 @ Amazon
Case Fan | NoiseBlocker NB-eLoop B12-PS 58.1 CFM 120mm Fan | $19.99 @ Amazon
Mouse | Corsair M65 RGB Wired Laser Mouse | $59.99 @ Corsair
Other| Caselabs Bullet BH4 mATX TX Case| $189.95
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $2002.18
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-11-23 22:49 EST-0500 |

u/Tacokinesis · 1 pointr/OnwardVR

Seems to be sold out at the moment but there are other brands that make them and they all seem to work. https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Powerline-Extra-Outlet-PLP1200-100PAS/dp/B00S6DBGIS

u/trashbringingslasher · 1 pointr/buildapc

Yeah, but you can go cheaper if you don't really care for the wifi extending. Something like this. These are kind of dependent on the wiring in your house though. If you don't have troubles with your wifi and dropping packets and getting lag spikes in games then maybe just stick to finding a wifi card. From what I've heard these things are generally pretty much better than wifi, unless you live in an older house. If it doesn't work out you can always return it anyway.

u/jkr1414 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Then this is your only option. Still no guarantee you'll get the speeds you want.

u/yonp11 · 1 pointr/GameDeals

I use the adapters you plug into an electrical outlet to create a network connection that way. Works perfectly with my Steam Link, I don't notice any lag when I play.

This is what I got: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S6DBGIS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/LoveCheeze · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

I bought this one and it connected like a charm. You can run it with micro USB cable, but to be completely honest, the input lag that everybody claims that bluetooth introduces is humanly non-noticeable. I play Rocket League, Dustforce, Dirt Rally with bluetooth, and it's perfect.

u/ev3rm0r3 · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

Because if you get a bluetooth dongle for your computer you can just pair up to it. The bluetooth chip on that thing is a receiver only so you wouldn't be connecting to it any other way accept through a spliced 3.5mm output from a computers headphone out . Honestly though I wouldn't. Especially on windows 10. Probably the worst experience you'll ever have with is with bt audio sync/lag/disconnects.
This

u/TheAutumnLeafeon · 1 pointr/gaming

My pleasure! Perhaps you can get a USB Bluetooth adapter.

I'm no expert on USB Bluetooth adapter, so I looked for what seems the best so far:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VWEK4IG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_yF64Ab6T581FW

u/Taezn · 1 pointr/pcgamingtechsupport

I use an xbox one. My friend uses a ps4. They're both great and a honestly a lot more comfortable than their previous gen counter parts. Bluetooth also makes them a snap to just start and play. Also the cost has gone way down on them as time has past. If you dint have bluetooth on your computer I highly recommend getting an adapter for USB. https://www.amazon.com/Avantree-Bluetooth-Computer-Keyboard-Warranty/dp/B00VWEK4IG
This is mine, its 12 bucks, you just plug it in and it works. Good luck hoe this helps

u/konetsu · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

i guess it's that one https://www.amazon.com/Avantree-Bluetooth-Adapter-Headphones-Speakers/dp/B00VWEK4IG not international shipping anyways.

u/zetaridley · 1 pointr/buildapc

You need a bluetooth dongle like this one. Any should work, but take a look at reviews on a few of them before you pull the trigger.

u/wingman626 · 1 pointr/techsupport

assuming you have windows 10 for your OS ;;;

you didn't really need to download that "bluesoleil" program at all for bluetooth drivers.

when you plug in a bluetooth adapter, windows takes care of that for you by installing needed drivers and it shows up as a bluetooth icon on the bottom right of your tray (i bought an insignia bluetooth adapter from best buy a while back and plugged it in without installing anything and it was working in minutes). i still use mine to this day to hook up my ps4 controller)

is "bluesoleil" recommended in the products manual or description? did you plug the product in to your computer first before installing or did you install the program first and then plugged it in?

---------------

Update:: if this is the product you are refering to , i see the product is recommending "bluesoleil". but nevertheless, bluetooth adapters are usually straightforward and dont need extra installed bloatware for them to work.

Update 2:: the questions/answers section and reviews of the product show horrible ratings mainly focused on its driver support or the device itself having bad range or not functioning properly even though the computer recognizes the peripheral. you can try uninstalling the drivers (both the program and the device drivers from device manager) and try replugging the device into the computer to see how your Computer recognizes the device or re-installing the recommended drivers, but other than that, im not sure what else you can do.

u/dtronatx · 1 pointr/heroesofthestorm
u/Sexy-Octopus · 1 pointr/buildapc

If you have enough USB ports I would just get a USB adapter like this one

u/rudynintendo64 · 1 pointr/SoulCalibur

Does anyone know what's the best way to connect the controller?

​

I've been using the cable I use to charge my Samsung S7, but the plastic around it is starting to fall apart and it's probably gonna break soon. I could get another, but whenever I use a different cable, it keeps disconnecting at the slightest shock (moving my controller), I tried two cables and they look brand new... why does my piece of crap cable never disconnect but the new ones keeps disconnecting at me barely moving the controller?

​

is there a way to connect it with Bluetooth ? I didn't built my PC with a bluetooth connection.

I guess I could use this https://www.amazon.ca/Avantree-Bluetooth-Adapter-Computer-Keyboard/dp/B00VWEK4IG/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1539953199&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=bluetooth+pc+adapter&psc=1

​

​

u/wgeist1 · 1 pointr/darksouls

I think you can use it wired if that's not an obstacle for you.

But if you need bluetooth this one claims to be compatible with a one s controller and has 5 stars on amazon.

u/repairs_bobombs · 1 pointr/emulation

this adapter and DS4Windows

Playing Kingdom Hearts on PCSX2. Not sure why it worked once and I couldn't repeat it. May just go wired for this one, I normally use a Nintendo Pro Controller otherwise and haven't had an issue with it.

u/zakabog · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

For VoIP I'd suggest using a bluetooth earpiece and a bluetooth dongle. You don't need stereo audio, so you don't need an expensive gaming headset, but you'd like to be able to hear the person talking to you so a handheld or lavalier microphone wouldn't be ideal.

u/Khelddit · 1 pointr/Windows10

I found on Amazon a dongle with a BlueSoleil license for 12€ (french, sorry) : https://www.amazon.fr/Avantree-Adaptateur-Bluetooth-utilisant-Branchement/dp/B00VWEK4IG/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8.

I think i will go with this one. Do you think it's a good idea ? Thanks again for your help :)

u/MoGraph_That · 1 pointr/buildapc

That's what I read, I think I was just skeptical because why would something that usually costs more, and have to be installed be so much more expensive. It's rare that the lazy thoughtless approach is just as good as the more DIY one.

Here's the dongle I was looking at, only negative review was from a person in an apartment, other reviews are stellar. This should work with multiple controllers at once, right?

http://www.amazon.ca/Avantree-Bluetooth-Adapter-BlueSoliel-Warranty-DG40S/dp/B00VWEK4IG/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top?ie=UTF8

u/Booty_Pope_ · 1 pointr/airpods

I use this cheap one from amazon.

I’ve used it for a little more than a month and it hasn’t failed me. It’s main use is for my airpods and PS4 controller which I’m able to use at the same time.

I understand your post says windows 7 so I’ll just mention I use it on windows 10 but it does say it supports 7.

u/sykoKanesh · 1 pointr/WindowsMR

Just so we have a good list, this is the one I purchased and it works flawlessly so far: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VWEK4IG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/Typomancer · 1 pointr/Games

Here’s the top two on Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VWEK4IG

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Q45EF4

And here’s the Best Buy one:

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/insignia-bluetooth-4-0-usb-adapter-black/5655065.p?id=1219147137699&skuId=5655065

They all seem to be the same thing but just rebranded. No idea how reliable they can be, but they’re cheap. I just plugged mine into a USB port, and I guess Windows 10 found the driver online right away because it worked as soon as I did the steps to pair my controller with the computer. Here’s the guide I followed:

https://www.reddit.com/r/PS4/comments/1p9y0l/pairing_your_ds4_controller_via_bluetooth/

u/AceoStar · 1 pointr/bose
u/dielawn87 · 1 pointr/Steam

I've been having some trouble with my bluetooth controllers in steam. This question may transcend just Steam, but I figured it might be a good starting point. My brother and I have been playing Divnity 2 and trying to do so with controllers. He uses an Xbox One controller and I use a PS4 one.








My setup is that my PC tower is about 12 feet adjacent from my TV. I've run an HDMI cable from it and my couch is right inbetween the two (probably about 7 feet from the PC to the controllers).











The issue is that the controllers sometimes do wonky things. For example, my character will move on it's own or when I am in a menu it will rapidly scroll through options. Occasionally the controllers also disconnect.








This is the receiver that I am using.

u/mmtree · 1 pointr/headphones

This one? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VWEK4IG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have this. :| Maybe there is something else I need to install? I have an avantree bluetooth dongle for a headset I bought a while ago that works perfectly, not sure why this is giving me trouble.

u/SerpentDrago · 1 pointr/ComputerDIY

Your only other option is powerline https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Powerline-Pass-through-TL-PA8010P-KIT/dp/B00Y3QPG1A?ie=UTF8&redirect=true

or a mesh network but I still prefer good old Cat 5 !
Really just suck it up and take the plunge having cords ran is a great thing to have done anyways


http://techreport.com/blog/29108/mixing-power-line-networking-with-wi-fi-proves-intoxicating

u/ZeroPaladn · 1 pointr/buildapc

I'd invest in a powerline adapter or work ethernet into his setup if they have demands that require that kind of bandwidth/reliability. A Gigabit Adapter set is cheaper than that wireless card that was initially chosen and, provided the home is adequately capable of doing so, is more reliable than wireless. My $0.02.

u/Deepinmind · 1 pointr/applehelp

I don't know what you are willing to do, but I had a 3rd gen Time Capsule and decided to upgrade to a 5th gen AirPort Extreme. My modem for time warner is a "Gateway" meaning that it must act as the main router as well as the modem. I'm guessing that's what you have.

Anyway, what I did was connect my AirPort Extreme via ethernet cable to the modem/gateway. Then I reset the AirPort Extreme so that it was like it was brand new. When I go into airport utility to setup the airport, I put it in bridge mode and then set up my wifi. So now my internet has a wifi signal. Then at the middle of my house I put the time capsule. I set that one up to be an "extended network" and then connected it to my AirPort Extreme's 5ghz wifi channel. Once you do this the second modem (time capsule in my case) becomes a signal repeater. It repeats the wifi signal and boosts it so in can reach the other side of my house.

Another option is to buy these and use them to send the Ethernet signal through the power lines in your house to any outlet in your house. Then connect that to another modem and set it up as a "network extension" and do the same thing.

The second way has a more reliable connection than the wifi extender way.

u/notebad · 1 pointr/GameDeals

Sorry for this late reply, but I just wanted to mention anecdotally that my experience with the TP LINK AV1200 powerline adapters has been pretty good with the Steam Link, FWIW. And I live in a house from the 1880s. EIGHTEEN eighties, with questionable wiring upgrades since then, but not designed with powerline network in mind.

I'm happy with it since rewiring the house or running cables all over the place are NOT options I would consider.

Definitely if you're going to try to use wireless or powerline rather than wired you'd probably want to lean more toward the newer faster more expensive equipment to have the best chance of a decent experience.

Just informing that this is the equipment I ended up with and my experience has been ok.

u/enemy1g · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I bought something similar to this, but this would work for you.

A powerline adapter uses your existing wiring within your house (power lines, that is), and uses it to transfer your internet. You use ethernet cords to connect one adapter to your router (and plug it into the wall), then do the same, but with your PC instead of the router.

u/HyperspaceCatnip · 1 pointr/homedefense

Sorry for the late reply, but I thought it might still be helpful.

Something like these for instance.

Basically, it's a wallwart that plugs in, an ethernet port and (optionally) has a passthrough AC output. On the wall/house wiring side it accepts AC but also spits out an RF signal carrying the ethernet data, where another unit of the same model can decode it again, so you can send ethernet data over your existing wiring.

As the signal is going over wiring, it's less susceptible to radio noise and way more reliable than things like wifi.

u/swrdfish · 1 pointr/Ubiquiti

Have you thought about using a Poweline adapter to get the Ethernet to the APs on different floors?

I just did this at a client who lives in a three story condo that is seperated by concerete floors.

We put in TP Link Powerline Adapters to pass the internet signal to two APs around the condo, and it works great.

I used three of these https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-TL-PA8010P-Pass-Through-Powerline-1200Mbps/dp/B00Y3QPG1A
( starter kit and an extra one )

and 2 AP-AC-LRs

u/TheMatster1 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

This is the one that I use. If it doesn’t work for you then from what I’ve experienced Amazon has a good return system.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Y3QPG1A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ZwvWBbX8NSXVJ

u/StressingSinceDay1 · 1 pointr/bapcsalescanada

I got the https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00Y3QPG1A/ref=pe_3034960_233709270_TE_item

I'll see how this works out :) thanks!

u/zoahporre · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

this will solve your issue

Plug one in near your router and plug the other one near your switch. Get one of those USB Ethernet adapters too.

u/ericlathrop · 1 pointr/linux_gaming

Great idea! These ones look pretty awesome.

u/SeveredBox53 · 1 pointr/gaming

In my experience yes. I had a TP Link wifi adapter plug (basically sends Ethernet through outlets... Don't ask me how I don't know) connect one of those to the router and another one to the computer and you can get Ethernet. Well this worked for a while but eventually the internet just crashed. Replaced the TP Link with a router and the Ethernet works just fine again.

Note the TP Link was a few years old at this point so it is also a viable option. A lot better than rewiring your house anyways.

Edit: TP-Link AV1200 Powerline Adapter, Gigabit w/Power Outlet Pass-through, Powerline speeds Up to 1200Mbps (TL-PA8010P KIT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Y3QPG1A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_UAk8Ab7RV8MVD

Similar to the ones I had just newer. Would still research for best product though.

u/Gr3yGhost · 1 pointr/PS4

Just get powerline adapters and you're good to go.

Here's one I recommend, as I have it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00Y3QPG1A/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1467657978&sr=8-3&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=powerline+adapter&dpPl=1&dpID=41lTgRCVtIL&ref=plSrch

Although they make plenty of other that have multiple ethernet ports if you want more than one wired device in a specific room.

I always recommend one with an outlet pass-through so you don't lose an outlet because of these adapters

u/chucklesvr · 1 pointr/RecRoom

Yup, can confirm, wifi (even 5gz) is flaky. Using powerline adapters (I've got the TP-Link AV1200) give much better reliability than a straight-line < 25 foot 5ghz wifi connection to a normally-robust router.

If you have bad lag, though, try hopping into a different game. It doesn't seem like you're necessarily pinned to a nearby colo-- proximity and lag seem to be random luck.

u/MPZahn · 1 pointr/buildapc

you're going to get terrible speeds with that adapter.

I recently upgraded to TP-Link AV 1200 Kit and i'm maxing out my 60Mbps bandwidth from my ISP.

u/Why_Is_This_NSFW · 1 pointr/techsupport

+1 for powerline, they work pretty well. I got a pair of these a while back and it works fine for wifi. Personally I don't get anywhere near gigabit, more in the 80Mb range, but you hook one up to your router then another to an access point where you need it and set it up with the same wifi info so it roams between them and you're good. If you hook it up to an old router functioning as an AP you'll also have (typically) 3 extra ethernet ports you can plug into on the AP also (4 LAN ports, minus one for the connection from AP to powerline adapter). Google "router as access point" or something.

u/cobalt_mcg · 1 pointr/GameDeals

The other reply was spot on.

These are the adapters I have. I have a router connected to my modem, then wired to adapter 1. I used a gigabit splitter connected to adapter 2 so I could wire my computer and an old non-gigabit router.

u/SarcasticOptimist · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

I got the TP Link AV1200 for my parent's home. Pass through, gigabit speeds without issues. Used will fit your budget. New is only 64.

www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00Y3QPG1A/ref=mp_s_a_1_1/182-5208125-7620345?qid=1453182292&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=powerline+gigabit+adapter&dpPl=1&dpID=41lTgRCVtIL&ref=plSrch

u/grizzlywhere · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Was the Steam Link wireless or the controller? If the Link, then I highly recommend this baby. It let's you wire up from anywhere in the house near to a power socket. It is kind of a steep price tag, but it is totally worth it.

u/nattylife · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

yea, the house isnt wired for ethernet and we think the coax is on a different "network" since it cant see the DVR from that area of the house. this is the current powerline we've been using for now. if the coax is hooked together i will go with the MOCA.

u/tadag · 1 pointr/xboxone

I want to say 400 and I picked these up on sale for ~40. Something that I got lucky with if you go this route, try to see pictures of how it covers the outlets. The model I linked lets me plug it into the bottom outlet and still have room to plug in a non ground plug (like the One S cord) in the top outlet.

u/fistful_of_ideals · 1 pointr/techsupport

The "right" way to do it would be to run some CAT6 and throw some jacks in. It's also difficult, and requires a little construction. I wouldn't bother unless you're hooking up multiple devices.

For relatively inexpensive solution for one device, it could be easily accomplished with these badboys, as long as your home's electrical is decent. You also need to purchase a pair of ethernet cables to go with it, and you'd need an open port on the switch.

u/CheeseDogs4Breakfast · 1 pointr/Ubiquiti
u/zackwag · 1 pointr/Fios

So, if I buy a MoCA bridge like this, I could just unhook my MI424WR for two hours to release DHCP and then plug the bridge in and run it into my own router?

u/nykehead · 1 pointr/Fios
u/lojacc · 1 pointr/homedefense

I use this switch:

Linksys 16-Port Business Desktop Gigabit PoE+ Switch (LGS116P) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GECC11O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4avHybKEXXE7S

And have 9 POE cameras. The above switch only has 8 POE ports so either a full 16 port POE switch or adding some of these would work:

TP-Link Gigabit Ethernet PoE Injector Adapter (TL-PoE150S) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PS9E5I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_tcvHybQM8F5XQ

I use those injectors too and they work great.

Don't have a recommendation for a pre-built server bc I built my own to spec. Disk space, Memory, and a good CPU will do for this type of set up.

u/mikeismyhero · 1 pointr/homedefense

I looked at the Hikvision-DS-2CD2032 and it is a great picture and the price doesn't hurt my wallet. When I looked it up at amazon it suggested that I also get these
http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PoE150S-Gigabit-Injector-compliant/dp/B001PS9E5I/ref=pd_bxgy_p_text_y

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-SF1008P-100Mbps-8-Port-802-3af/dp/B003CFATT2/ref=pd_bxgy_p_text_z

since im thinking of getting 3 cameras do I need them?

u/ITmercinary · 1 pointr/cableadvice

Assuming your switches there are not POE capable, you'll either need a power supply for the phone or a POE injector, something like this

u/Sensucht94 · 1 pointr/DOS

Hi, if not a PCI slot, maybe ISA? If you really want to gwt this working you might unplug the sound card (however, being this old, maybe it only comes with an Internal speaker?)

For ISA devices there's:

-NE2000

  • 3COM 3C503

    Once you managed to get an Ethernet Card working, than the Job is done. At this point if you had a raspberry you would use it as Wifi to Ethernet Bridge adapter or simply buy a Bridge Adapter like this. In this way you'd be able to fast-connect to any wfi network with DOS (I do so)

    Otherwise you can Remote-Band connect to your telephone line using a RJ-11 port, through a dial-up modem

    You will need a dial-up ISP account, an analogue phone, a dial-up Modem and a RJ-11 cable...all oh which are not so obvious these days(.....this reminds of my childhood spent hacking with a 28 Kb/s connection)

    If you got everything, then you'll may want to give a look to this page to start understanding how to dial-up connection works in MS-DOS


    If no one of these is viable/bearable, then there's Spider_Gilgamesh' solution, using a USB to Serial adapter and configuring again Rpi to act as modem. I think it's theoretically correct don't see why it shouldn't work, so why do not you ask him whether he's put that solution in practice for real or not? and maybe ask for a walkthrough ;)
u/wolffstarr · 1 pointr/homelab

TP-Link TL-POE150S, which is $18 on Amazon. They list a splitter there for cheaper; That pulls power out of a PoE drop for non-PoE devices like Raspberry Pis, so it won't be useful for you.

That module is running passive 802.3af, which is standard vanilla 15.4w Power over Ethernet. My rather crufty old 3550 PoE switch will power my 3502E APs, which is the same power output, so I don't doubt this will power your 3502I just fine.

u/dfhawk · 1 pointr/homedefense

I would take him up on his offer, not necessarily his advice. Get a used computer and just purchase needed poe injector:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Ethernet-Injector-Adapter/dp/B001PS9E5I/

u/VegasWebDev · 1 pointr/eero

Yeah, I thought this was for eeros, but the comment would be the same for cameras.

Something like this.

u/Porsche4lyfe · 1 pointr/Network

Yes,

If that access point does not use an AC power adapter, then you will need a Power-over-Ethernet Injector which adds DC power to the cable to power the device.
This is because your router does not have PoE from what i briefly skimmed. If it does, disregard that ish.

Said device: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001PS9E5I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_X.o1CbVJEVEEV

Posted from Android.

u/wolfpackunr · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

If you can afford it, go for the Ubiquiti Switch 8. I personally hate having tons wires and plugs filling up power strips.
https://www.ubnt.com/unifi-switching/unifi-switch-8/

Otherwise, if your wanting to keep it really cheap a PoE injector will work. I wouldn't go for that ebay one, instead go for a more reputable company that has a good warranty. TPLink has one for a few bucks more but has a 3 year warranty. https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Gigabit-Ethernet-Injector-TL-PoE150S/dp/B001PS9E5I

u/robocow_net · 1 pointr/lightingdesign
u/Adam2013 · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

OP........... Just no.

A couple of points:

  1. Good idea in theory not in practice.

  2. This proposed splitting would significantly violate ANSI/TIA/EIA 568A and 568B, leading to increased crosstalk and EMI, leading to extremely poor SNR on the cables. TL;DR: The end devices would not be able to communicate with all the noise.

  3. Please just get a 802.3af POE injector? They're cheap, and most of the conform to the proper standards for reliable and efficient data transfer. For example, this model from Amazon.

  4. Another option would be to get a used POE switch. Got my 24 port gigabit model that has plenty of power per port, for $60 used at an auction. It currently runs my six Cisco 7960 VoIP Phones, and the plan is to use it to run my IP cameras once I move from my apartment.
u/hops_on_hops · 1 pointr/DIY

Cat5e should be plenty fast for home use.

Like the other guy said, you really need to get power here and a switch. If you want to do it right, you could terminate all the wiring into a patch panel, then attach those ports to your switch. That gives you a nice setup to centralize network equipment.

Examples:
Patch: https://www.amazon.com/Dshot12-Cat5e-network-Mount-Surface/dp/B00NTWK8VW/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?keywords=patch+panel&qid=1572791966&sprefix=Patch+&sr=8-8

Switch:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-SG1008D-Unmanaged-Gigabit-Network/dp/B001EVGIYG/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=8+port+gigabit+switch&qid=1572792046&sprefix=8+po&sr=8-6



Edit:

Thinking more, if you absolutely can't get power in there you could probably do a PoE (power over ethernet) powered switch here, with a PoE power injector on another line.

Something like this in the closet: https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16833122614

Then the port on there for power would need to lead to something like this in another room: https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PoE150S-Injector-Adapter-Compliant/dp/B001PS9E5I/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=poe+injector&qid=1572793212&sprefix=poe+i&sr=8-3

u/Toasty_A · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Here is a post I found about what you're trying to do. Apparently it shouldn't ruin anything, but it may or may not work.

I'd say your best option would be to pick up something like this. As long as it's 802.3af or 802.3at compliant it will work with the AP.

If the patch panel you have says anything about 802.3af/at then it should be able to be used.

u/Dain42 · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

Just get some actual PoE equipment. You can get a nice Netgear switch that does PoE for only $65. This would be a good choice if you think you might have more PoE devices in the future.

An cheaper solution would be to get a PoE injector.

There are a number of active PoE dongles out there, too that would work with the Pi, as far as powering it.

Another option on the Pi end is a HAT specifically designed for this purpose.

Depending on which way you go, it looks like you could do it as cheaply as $30.

I would recommend against what the other commenter has suggested, though. PoE standards are designed with Cat5/5e/6 cabling in mind and should include some over-current and over-voltage protection to prevent overloading the wires in the cable, which are meant only for low voltage and current. If you were to accidentally short something or have an electrical fault with a homebrew system, you'd run the risk of starting a fire, and given that a homebrew setup that was properly done wouldn't end up being all that much less expensive (after buying adapters and plugs and power adapters and such), it's better to go with a professionally made solution. It's unlikely that you'd have an issue, but better to play it safe than sorry. Besides, the purpose-built equipment is likely to give you fewer headaches over time.

u/Judman13 · 1 pointr/homesecurity

Something like this for the POE Injector should work.

Then something comparable to this would work for the battery backup. The higher the VA the longer the runtime.

u/sknick_ · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Just get a PoE injector & connect that to your router & device needing PoE

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PoE150S-Gigabit-Injector-compliant/dp/B001PS9E5I

Or get a gigabit switch with PoE ports if you need > 1, and link the switch to your router

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-SG1008P-8-Port-Giagbit-802-3af/dp/B00BP0SSAS

u/AndroidDev01 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

I think staying with 6 is fine. Most people will say if you are wiring now to go with 6a because the cost is similar but I find it is thicker and harder to bend. If you really want to future proof then you could go with 6a but right know 10Gbps is a little excessive.


AP wise you call Ubiquity expensive but the newest UAP-AC-PRO is the same price as the Linksys and will be much better, it is hard to find now because of limited supply. Sorry Its actually $20 more



I would spend a little extra for the Edgerouter Lite over the X but they are similar.



Unless I missed it I don't think you mentioned how many wall jacks you will have. So I will assume 24 drops. A good 24 port non POE switch is This normally $160 is on sale for $100
And This for POE only 8 ports though

EDIT

Sorry didn't release the netgear switch wasn't all POE you might be better off with a cheap 8-10 Port switch and POE Injectors


Like /u/topcat5 said you can get UAP-AC-LITE for $90.

u/mcribgaming · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

>Will each line on the network require PoE or just the ones feeding the Aps?

Just the ones feeding the APs. The APs use PoE exclusively.

PoE stands for "Power over Ethernet", which is just like it sounds. Devices need to support PoE for the switch to send power over the Ethernet connection.

You can connect a non-PoE device to a PoE port and that would work fine, no worry you'll "fry" anything by doing that. But PoE devices need PoE ports, unless you want to use the provided injector (more below).

>
>Along those lines, a few of my LAN runs have small switches I used to feed other hard points. Rather than one powered switch for the network can i use individual/ PoEs for each AP?

You can indeed use what's called a "PoE Injector" to power each AP individually .

The ceiling APs (the ones that look like flying saucers - The nanoHD, Pro, and Lite models) come with this Injector free!

However, the In-Walls do not come with a PoE Injector. You'd have to buy one for each separately. The In- Walls use a PoE standard known as "802.3af", and you want to make sure the Injector you buy also supports gigabit speeds (some are only 10/100, make sure you dont buy these).

Here is one that would work:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PoE150S-Injector-Adapter-Compliant/dp/B001PS9E5I/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=poe+injector+af&qid=1574915029&sr=8-3


If you go with all Injectors, you don't need to buy the PoE switch at all

>I'm guessing you need the extra power to amplify the wifi signal. Does it work that way?

No, it's not "extra power to amplifi", it really is just simply powering the APs for regular use. There is no other way to power them; they do not have a "power plug".

Be sure to watch a few YouTube videos on how to set up the Ubiquiti gear you choose before you buy. Make sure you are comfortable with the technical skill you need to administer them. It's a step up from your basic home router setup.

u/farptr · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

There isn't really much to it. You can either use a PoE capable network switch or get a PoE injector. Just have that inside somewhere safe near a mains socket and the Cat5 plugged into the output will run outside and into the enclosure. The PoE splitter I linked above then splits out the power, regulates it to 5V and terminates in a RJ45 plug for Ethernet + micro-USB plug for power. Not all PoE splitters will regulate down to 5V so check before buying it. Just plug both wires into the RPi and you're good to go. The RPi doesn't know or care that it is using PoE because it is all handled before it sees anything. There is a PoE HAT for the RPi but it is far more expensive and you don't gain anything useful apart from it screwing onto the top of the RPi as a HAT.

> Enclosing stuff would be great, assuming you can also dissipate the heat.

I've not had any problems with heat buildup. If it is in direct sunlight and acting like a mini greenhouse then you might need to work out some way of shading it. You want a certain amount of heat anyway to ensure no condensation and so it doesn't get too cold during the winter.

u/ProfessorMutt · 1 pointr/fixit

TP-LinkTL-POE150S POE Injector (Black) https://www.amazon.in/dp/B001PS9E5I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_l84OCbX671W85

Is this the same thing?

u/Sketch3000 · 1 pointr/homedefense

I have a bunch of Amcrest cameras. I honestly have zero familiarity with the protocols/standrds you are referencing.

I have 3 different types of POE Injectors that I use on my network, for various reasons.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MRO4M73/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GECC11O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PS9E5I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They all work with no issues.

u/mathematicool · 1 pointr/buildapc

The CPU cooler is very pricey. Unless you want to be doing some serious overclocking or running really low temps, then you can save quite a bit on a Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus or Evo.

Similarly with the PSU. Are you sure you want a modular PSU (i.e. you only plug in the cables you need.) If not, then something like this is cheaper and offers plenty of overhead for future crossfiring.

You will need to buy a PCI wireless card, you could get a USB one, but they're not as good. They're very cheap though.

P.S. I just bought that video card from dabs.com and although it hasn't arrived yet so I can't comment on the card itself, you can get it for £210 with the code SEPT10 and you also get a couple of free games, which makes it pretty good value for money.

u/Badmadbrad · 1 pointr/buildapc

I did install one and installed drivers, but I hoped it was that so removed it and removed drivers. I may not have removed all the drivers as windows installed one and then I installed one from the website.

I bought this one

here's a screenshot of my device manager did I leave a driver behind?

u/grelphy · 1 pointr/shittybattlestations

Ooh, laptop-as-wifi-bridge! I've done that. It works okay, definitely better than nothing.

If you're expecting to make it permanent, you should probably invest in one of these freakishly useful buggers, which is way more compact than your laptop and also not your laptop. Alternatively, you can get a PCIE wifi card for your desktop, though that's a less flexible solution.

u/jfoodge · 1 pointr/buildapc

I use [TP-LINK] (http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN781ND-Wireless-Express-Low-profile/dp/B0036AFAEW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1404328288&sr=8-3&keywords=tplink+pcie+wireless), they have a couple of different adapters depending on your router. I casually game on it with no problems.

u/hawaiian717 · 1 pointr/chartercable

The router should have one or more Ethernet ports on it. If only one, connect a switch to the router and then run an Ethernet cable to your room. But that's messy. If the router and your computer has wifi, use that. If the router doesn't have wifi, get a wifi access point and connect it to the router with Ethernet. If your computer doesn't have wifi, either add a wifi card if you have a free PCI slot (something like this), or use an Ethernet to Wifi adapter (something like this).

Note the products I'm linking are just examples I found with a quick search, I don't know if there are better/cheaper ones out there and I don't have any personal experience with these particular products.

u/JakeBlo · 1 pointr/buildapc

Talking about wifi card, i've been looking into it.
Some have ugly antennas in the back, Some don't
I currently have a nano wifi key that works perfectly fine.
Any reason i shouldn't pick the antenna-less one ?

u/samwalton9 · 1 pointr/buildapc

I don't know a huge amount about different wireless cards but I have this card and it's worked perfectly for me.

u/BackPlateGuy · 1 pointr/buildmeapc

considering this is for a beginner, this is a pretty 'advanced' build.

IMO they shouldn't be striving for overclocking their CPU, chances are neither of them fully understand it. They could save some money, skip the cpu cooler and thermal compound, and maybe get that 1440p monitor.

here is a tplink wifi adapter for $12 instead of the $30 one you linked. I mean we should verify with OP but I'd be surprised if they needed over 100mb/s...let alone 800+ that the gigabyte adapter you linked supports.

Could also just get the i5-6500 and save some more money there.

That's like $60 in savings that could go towards a bigger SSD than 60gb (which I think is necessary for a beginner who probably isn't too accustomed to changing file paths for literally everything)



u/ProJoh · 1 pointr/buildapc

I would have chosen this one . Compare them and see which one you like.

Also, this card looks pretty good if you don't mind the money. I don't have a first had experience with it like I do with the rosewill.

If you want one that works almost as well but slower consider this one. Once again I'm only suggesting these from reviews/stats. Hope I helped you, and good luck with your build.

u/double_shadow · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Yeah, getting a card is my next step if needed, but I'm hoping not to spend too much.

Here is the USB adapter I'm currently using: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KV9TQXM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If I get a cheap card like this one (https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-PCI-Express-Adapter-TL-WN781ND/dp/B0036AFAEW/ref=sr_1_7?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1480532133&sr=1-7&keywords=wireless+card), will it still get decent results? I don't want to throw down $60 for one of the higher end ones if I can avoid it.

u/ynottry · 1 pointr/buildapc

I posted a question yesterday which didn't get much attention so I will post it here. While I really appreciate the user who did respond, I always appreciate multiple peoples view points.


For a desktop wireless card will the TP-Link 150 mbps do or do I require a card with more antennae. The Desktop will be a few rooms away from the router; the laptop I use works well from this room with its internal wifi card. It is only for use of a 3 mbps DSL internet so I don't think the bandwidth will be a problem.

u/lucadem1313 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace
u/Hey_Papito · 1 pointr/hackintosh

>TL-WN881ND

How do i know if it's not realtek? I bought it from amazon here https://www.amazon.com.au/gp/product/B0036AFAEW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/Giraffe_Dude · 1 pointr/buildapc

Can you tell me if this
would work as well?

u/thorskicoach · 1 pointr/hometheater

https://www.amazon.com/Portta-PET30DP-10-Inch-Extender-Cables/dp/B003LZA95W

then if you can fish a 3rd cable, you can do USB over that... allegedly, with https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Extender-CAT5E-Connection-150ft/dp/B003L14ZTC

be aware with USB as depending on the speed (USB 2.0 480MBit) it may not like being >5m in the USB spec for timing etc. It might speed bumb down to like the 11Mbits, which is fine for a remote which probably connects only at that anyway.

If you want file access for movies, use ethernet for ethernet!

u/Dstanding · 1 pointr/buildapc

One, and two.

I can't speak for latency, though.

u/thisadviceisworthles · 1 pointr/homelab

25 Feet is well within the HDMI spec. That plus an active USB cable leading to a hub. Just run as many HDMI cables as monitors.

But what if it is out of the reach of HDMI, or if you already have Cat6 lines run to where you want to use it.

Solution (For under $200):
HDMI Balun (4)
Amazon

USB over Ethernet
Amazon

u/triplebeamz · 1 pointr/LaserDock

honestly, easiest is just a bluetooth gamepad or keyboard and map all your keys. i did this in a WHL sized hockey arena and was able to control the laser anywher ein the place pretty much.

for true wireless control i have had success using a raspberry pi zero.. running "VirtualUSB" server.

Then on a PC (on the same wifi network) isntall the irtualhere client nd you will be ale to cntrol it as if you are connected.

fr me insewad of connecting both to wifi,, i enabled wifi sharing on my wndows 10 p, and conencted the Pi direct to that AP.. worked much better for me than through using a router..... i would suggest a raspberry pi 3 over raspi zero, it jsut isnt fast enough i think...

i set up a tutorial somewhere in this reddit to tell u how to set it all up
honestly, AVOID WIFI. especially n a professional/semi pro environment like a gig... as the venue fills,, you have to think about all the interference everyone else's phones will have.. adding latency to you our own connections, and severely affecting your scanrate.
in my tests some of the scanrates seemed so low i was actually worried about damage to the servos...

your best bet for long distance from control pc to laser, is nothing more than a usb over cat6 extender.. they are cheap and allow you to connect upt to 150' ethernet cable.
https://www.amazon.ca/Monoprice-Extender-Connection-150-Feet-106042/dp/B003L14ZTC works fine, even cheaper clnes work fine as well (as long as they are not DOA)

u/Enlightenment777 · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

If you have an Arduino with a USB connection, then it's going to be harder to extend the distance, because it's a USB issue, instead of an Arduino issue. There are commercial solutions to extend USB, such as USB to ethernet to USB, or USB to fiber optics to USB, or other concepts. Some solutions are expensive, some cheap.

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Extender-CAT5E-Connection-150ft/dp/B003L14ZTC

If you use another type of Arduino that doesn't have integrated USB, then you could use RS485 / RS422 / RS232 / alternate async transport, then convert back to UART connection to connect to the Arduino.

https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoBoardPro

You could use an RS232 extender, similar to the top concept.

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=3598

u/sgruby · 1 pointr/homeassistant

I moved from a Vera Edge to an Aeotec stick and haven't been happier. I'm running HA on VMWare Fusion. If you go this route, check out this article on how to get the USB stick to always reconnect when your VM restarts. My Vera served me well for 5 years (I had a Vera Lite before the Edge), but I always got nervous with their firmware updates as it was all a black box that sometimes just stopped working and I couldn't figure out why.

​

I find that things are more responsive with the stick directly on HA. As others have mentioned, being able to get under the hood is also a plus for me as I had no idea what Vera was doing sometimes. I'm using just about all Leviton devices and they work fine. The only device I still haven't been able to pair on HA (that worked on Vera) is an old Wayne Dalton Homelink to Z-Wave bridge. The devices that really gave me trouble that I had no problems with Vera are Leviton VRCZ4-M0Z in-wall controllers. However, after a bit of tinkering, I figured it out and wrote a blog entry about it.

​

If you have problems with pairing and need the stick closer to your devices, consider a USB over Cat6 extender. You plug one end into the computer, plug the stick into the other and run Cat6 between them. I used a similar product (not the Monoprice one, but one I've had for 9 years or so) and it worked fine.

​

As for PIN codes, they are easy to handle. With the current version of HA, you don't use the Open Z-Wave control panel, but go into the Z-Wave configuration for HA, select your lock, scroll down and look at the Node user codes. You select a code slot, enter the code (in HEX) and hit Set Usercode. It's pretty straight forward; just make sure you secure add the locks otherwise you won't be able to set the codes.

​

Good luck!

u/Eisenstein · 1 pointr/techsupport

Well, good news is that the idea I tossed out to use CAT6 cable to do it has be done for you, if you want to buy some cheap adapters:

u/fl3abag · 1 pointr/sysadmin

You're getting HDMI over ethernet, why not USB over ethernet?

*I haven't used these types of products yet.

u/w2tpmf · 1 pointr/computers

They make extenders to run both USB and HDMI over a cay5 network cable.

Another option would be to leave your computer where it is and get some tubing to vent your computer's heat out of the room.

u/primeski · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

This was already mentioned but I'm using these currently, it's USB over about 100 feet, but don't go any more than 150 if you can help it. http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Extender-CAT5E-Connection-150ft/dp/B003L14ZTC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451270021&sr=8-1&keywords=usb+over+ethernet+adapters

u/txhackerz · 1 pointr/homeautomation

It's powered by usb right?
Don't see why something like this wouldn't work

Monoprice USB Extender over CAT5E or CAT6 Connection up to 150ft https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003L14ZTC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Ndsgyb5Z57EHY

u/Lurking_Grue · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I suppose you could just add one more cat 5 cable and use one of these for the controller and reduce the lag:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003L14ZTC?keywords=usb%20over%20ethernet%20adapter&qid=1448942599&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

u/okpgreg · 1 pointr/htpc

Thanks for the follow-up. I ended up going with this cat5/6 extender: http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003L14ZTC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 so hopefully it will work out. My turn to post a follow up when I get some results!

u/giants32 · 1 pointr/buildapcforme

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor | $179.99
Motherboard | ASRock Z97 PRO4 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $69.99
Memory | Team Vulcan 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $68.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $50.40 @ Amazon
Video Card | Asus GeForce GTX 770 2GB DirectCU II Video Card | $319.99 @ Amazon
Case | Corsair 300R ATX Mid Tower Case | $59.99 @ NCIX US
Power Supply | Corsair CX 600W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $64.99 @ Amazon
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) | $89.99 @ NCIX US
Keyboard | Logitech G105 Wired Gaming Keyboard | $38.95 @ Amazon
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $943.28
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-07-25 21:05 EDT-0400 |


The price of the CPU and motherboard is from a combo discount you get when you buy them together in-store at microcenter. Prices may change slightly at the start of next month but you can just check the microcenter website for that.

I don't have a wifi adapter included in the build, but this tp-link is the one I have and I haven't had a problem in 6 months of use.

Edit: And actually, because you aren't overclocking, you could get this motherboard instead which is 49.99 with the combo discount.

u/whalespotterhdd · 1 pointr/linuxquestions

I have one of those, works great on my rpi, on newer linux kernels, not so much.

Plus, range is an issue with those nano chips. This one is king on the pc of a few relatives. And the usb cord is long enough it wont be in the way

u/Ue-MistakeNot · 1 pointr/buildapc

If powerline wont work, get a usb (or PCI-e) one that has an antennae, like this one so that you get the most stable connection.

u/Retrosmith · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I can't speak for that one, but I use this one at home and have no issues at all.

u/BucciMane15 · 1 pointr/computers

Depending on your location, one of these could help a lot if you're streaming.

TP-LINK Wireless N300 High Gain USB Adapter, Support Windows/Linux/Mac OS, Plug and play (TL-WN822N) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00416Q5KI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_D8tFxbM1JWSHG

u/eroldru · 1 pointr/buildapc

Mini is just the size, no worries, it still is a normal GTX 1060 6GB in a smaller body. As far as the keyboard is concerned, this year I got a Rapoo V700 mech keyboard, no illumination, but still a great one for just 25€. But still for 25€ is OK, for 50(~60€) I'd expect to get a lot more, not just some chinese illumination. Anyway, that's my opinion. I've used this adapter https://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-LINK-TL-WN822N-Wireless-Adapter-Version/dp/B00416Q5KI/ref=sr_1_33?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1501163112&sr=1-33&keywords=wifi+tplink for a long time and has always worked great, also CSGO ran flawlessly, but as always for very competitive gaming wired is the best option, even if you invest hundreds of $$$ just for wifi.

BTW here are all the keyboards featured in PCPP https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/products/keyboard/#k=1&sort=price&page=1
I'd advise choosing one with Cherry Keys, the other ones are just cheaper chinese clones.

EDIT: Just found this: http://www.corsair.com/en-gb/strafe-mechanical-gaming-keyboard-cherry-mx-brown-ch-9000500-na-refurbished It's a refurb, but comes directly from Corsair and has warranty.

u/rv_princess · 1 pointr/GoRVing

I use a part that boosts the wi-fi signal to my computer. I may have mentioned it in a previous post, but this TP-Link can take me from barely one bar to full bars for signal strength. Extremely helpful. Pretty inexpensive for what it does for me. At one job I was getting nothing until I plugged it in.
http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Wireless-Adapter-Support-TL-WN822N/dp/B00416Q5KI/ref=sr_1_30?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1459316296&sr=1-30&keywords=tp-link

It might help in your travels.

u/MadHiggins · 1 pointr/wow

> I just hope our crappy wifi will at least let my farm

buy a wifi booster, that's what i did for my work's crappy wifi. i bought something like this https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-WN822N-Wireless-network-Adapter/dp/B00416Q5KI/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1536365861&sr=8-9&keywords=wifi+booster+tp+link off of amazon and it helped a lot to keep a steady connection and is pretty cheap at like 20 bucks.

u/logoster · 1 pointr/techsupport

The problem is that you got a nano adapters, they are the worst possible choice to make, something like this is a far better choice (I actually use this one myself, I get the SAME speeds as my directly connected pcs)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00416Q5KI/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_mCrLub1ATZCKM

u/cloudynights · 1 pointr/buildapc

I currently use this and this as a wireless router. I also have a 100Mbp/s downstream connection, so I never really have a problem gaming on wireless, or streaming or torrenting from a computer using wifi. I rent so there's no way I can try to run wire throughout the house, and my houses electrical circuits are messed up as is, so I don't think trying a powerline connection would be the best.

u/n1gz · 1 pointr/GlobalOffensive

Get this. I'm getting 5-15 ms with it. Fiber connection helps but it's still the best wireless adapter you can buy.

u/exclasher1 · 1 pointr/techsupport

I would recommend an external USB adapter to replace it, or work alongside it. I had a TP-Link that worked nicely let me find it quickly.
Edit: Here it is: http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN822N-Wireless-External-Antennas/dp/B00416Q5KI

u/JonotanVII · 1 pointr/buildapc

looks good, the power supply is $50 after rebate btw. And you can get a wifi adapter like this one for $15 so you'll be under your max!

u/urethrasecks · 1 pointr/buildapc

Been watching that same one for my build. Found a cheaper one on Amazon as well.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002WBX9C6/ref=olp_product_details?ie=UTF8&me=&seller=

There's also this one, not sure what the difference is between the two though.

http://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-TL-WN822N-Wireless-Adapter-Antennas/dp/B00416Q5KI/ref=pd_cp_e_0

u/diab64 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Generally, PCI-E is much faster of an interface. However, Wifi speeds don't go nearly as fast as even the maximum speed of USB 2.0. So, speed-wise, it doesn't matter.

The USB one will be good for futureproofing your computer in case you later get a router with AC and 5GHz support. It's also nice in that you'll be able to preposition it to different USB slots for better signal.

For PCI-E, I would recommend this TP-Link one instead of the Rosewill:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-PCI-Express-Adapter-TL-WN881ND/dp/B0079XWMEI/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1483091328&sr=1-1&keywords=wireless+network+card&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_three_browse-bin%3A6011949011%2Cp_36%3A700-2500
It's from (in my opinion) a more reputable company; it seems like it's a current model from their website; and it's a buck cheaper and will probably ship faster. Otherwise pretty much the same as the Rosewill.

There is a third alternative I found:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-N300-Wireless-Adapter-TL-WN822N/dp/B00416Q5KI/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1483092749&sr=1-3&keywords=wireless+network+usb&refinements=p_36%3A1253503011%2Cp_72%3A1248879011%2Cp_89%3ATP-Link
This would be especially great for if you know you get a bad signal between your router and computer. You can connect it via USB and then stick the device up high somewhere for maximum signal. If you have a place to put the device and don't currently have or have plans to get an AC or 5GHz router, this is what I would get.

u/1new_username · 1 pointr/sysadmin

If you have PCI slots, these are great:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0713RRZMB/

Intel 802.11ac chip (at least it was when I purchased), regularly sustain 500+ Mbps connections (using Ruckus APs).

These are really nice USB ones as well:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00416Q5KI/

Ralink driver if I remember right. They are Wireless N, but still generally good. Typically about 120 - 175 Mbps connections

I've also used these before if you have strong APs and don't need super fast speed:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B008IFXQFU/

Expect about 40-60 Mbps connections

u/Klelth · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I use this one

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Adapter-Support-TL-WN822N/dp/B00416Q5KI

I think its pretty good I rarely lag while online and my top download speed I have reached is 15MBs.

u/CHarrisMedia · 1 pointr/techsupport

Firstly, you may have heard of powerline before, this basically uses the powerline of your household to transfer data. You receive 2 adapters, one plugs near your router and the other near your PC and both just simply connect over Ethernet. Providing they're not plugged into sockets with power hungry appliances nearby they work like a charm.

Otherwise, I'd say that your unit could be broken. I'd suggest one of these:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-LINK-TL-WN822N-300MBPS-Wireless-Adapter/dp/B00416Q5KI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1425221627&sr=8-1&keywords=wireless+adapter

or

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Edimax-EW-7811UN-150Mbps-Wireless-Adapter/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1425221627&sr=8-2&keywords=wireless+adapter

u/TydeQuake · 1 pointr/techsupport

How about this one? The price is a lot lower so I assume the quality is too, but it has quite an antenna.

Or maybe a powerline? I don't know a lot about those and especially their price but I've heard they work well.

u/sit_up_straight · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Didn't there use to be a daily build questions thread? I'm looking for a good but fairly cheap monitor and wifi adapter (max budget $240 for now)

Currently looking at these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00416Q5KI/
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=24-009-513

The wifi adapter should be long range since my connection to the router isn't the best and I'd like to try to use it for streaming to my Steam Link.
I don't need speakers on the monitor. I enjoy 60 FPS content but I'm not sure I notice anything over that so 60 or 75 Hz is probably ok.

u/Atlantacus · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Im using this got it a few months ago and its never dropped out or had any problems.

u/arjun959 · 1 pointr/IndianGaming

https://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B00416Q5KI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Have been using this for 1-2 months. catches signal from 10m away, thru 2 walls.

Good signal strength. Looks good and plugs into USB.

u/Zaugr · 1 pointr/buildapc

This was suggested:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00416Q5KI/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1450053914&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX118_SY170&keywords=wireless+dongle&dpPl=1&dpID=3104SMiaGyL&ref=plSrch


And you're right, I just said what was suggested because I really don't understand what the differences/benefits are between the three.


How do I find out how good my house wiring is? Some pointers?


Thanks for the help so far. :) Do you think your suggestion would be good enough for competitive CS:GO or should I look at some way to use an Ethernet cable. (Which would be a lot of hard work, and I'd obviously rather not do)

u/strobot · 1 pointr/htpc

TP-LINK TL-WN822N works very well

u/hlfhi · 1 pointr/xboxone

Yeah I wanted something like that too!
This is the closest solution that doesn't need to be plugged into the wall it's just usb for power Ethernet for data but the Netgear works better for me!
https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6

u/elguapo1991 · 1 pointr/NoStupidQuestions

Yes, they have devices specifically for this. Here's one from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6

If your device has a USB port though, it might be easier to use a usb wifi adapter like another comment said. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DKDAUAS

u/Rannasha · 1 pointr/askscience

USB is extremely common and meant for external peripherals, so it only makes sense that most wifi adapters use a USB port.

There are adapters that use an ethernet port, however. For example: https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6

Alternatively, if size isn't an issue, any WiFi access point set in "client mode" will essentially do the same thing.

Finally, the latest RPi comes with onboard WiFi, completely eliminating the problem.

u/HAL__Over__9000 · 1 pointr/AskTechnology

Thanks. So, my Blu-Ray player doesn't have wifi, now that's not that big of an issue, I usually just unplug the HDMI cable and hook up my laptop. Granted, I could also just get an Ethernet cable, but I don't know if I want to mess with contacting the college to set up a physical connection (it's probably not actually that hard and I could always get something like [this thing from amazon] (https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6), but whatever, I'm getting off topic). Anyway, my main question is about headphones. I would need something like [this] (https://www.amazon.com/Extractor-Cyelee-Optical-Splitter-Converter--Include/dp/B01D1680O2/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1466101106&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=hdmi+audio+extractor&psc=1) as well as an additional HDMI cable to do what I was asking, correct? I just want to be sure, I bought the adapter without really looking into it and I want to be sure before buying anything else. So, to be absolutely clear, I would connect and HDMI cable from my Blu-Ray or computer to the stereo, use my adapter with the RCA output, and use a second HDMI cable to hook up to my TV, which I mute. I'm pretty sure I got it, I just like to make sure, I apologize for being redundant, but I am very thankful for your answer.

u/FreewarePirate · 1 pointr/PS3

You could use something like this or use an old spare router with wifi.

u/Agerak · 1 pointr/Hue

You can use a wireless bridge, I've used them multiple times with standalone wired only devices to great success.

https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6

Hope this helps!

u/ameoba · 1 pointr/NoStupidQuestions

Does your TV have the option of adding a wifi stick of some sort?

If not, you can get one of these things. It connects to the WiFi & lets you hook an ethernet device up to the other side.

u/Jessie_James · 1 pointr/homeowners

It's an EyeDro.

http://eyedro.com/home-electricity-monitors/

Basically, you install it in your load panel and then it gives you an estimate of how much power you use. It's not 100% accurate, maybe 95% or so (?), but it's good enough.

Don't get the wireless version, instead get the basic one and a wireless extender like this which is cheaper (although now you have two devices to plug in).

I now also have an Ecobee3 thermostat which has awesome reports, much better than my old Nest.

u/_kemot · 1 pointr/techsupport

http://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6

This? It takes a LAN Cable and sends the signal as wifi.

u/geoff5093 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

You just need a wireless bridge. It connects to your WiFi network and allows you to connect wired devices.

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6/ref=sr_1_9?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1487095682&sr=1-9&keywords=wireless+bridge

You could look to see if your wireless router has a bridge mode, and if not perhaps you could install third party firmware like DD-WRT or Tomato that would give you that feature.

u/Mongo527 · 1 pointr/SmartThings

You can get one of these adapters. Plug the Ethernet cable to the adapter and ST hub. Join the adapter to your wireless hotspot.

I have one similar to this plugged into my audio receiver and it works perfectly.

u/OnceUponNeverNever · 1 pointr/homesecurity

No this will not work in any way shape or form. The Ethernet jack on the camera is expecting an Ethernet signal your usb wireless adapter will out put a USB signal. You will be putting a USB signal into a device expecting an Ethernet signal. These are options that will get you what you need Wireless Bridge or Power Line Ethernet

u/cwilo · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

There are wifi ethernet adapters out there: https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6

You're going to need to power the wifi/ap in the garage with PoE. So theoretically you can use the power outlet with an injector and run the cable from the adapter through the injector and onto the AP in the garage. Honestly not sure how well this will work, but it theoretically should.

​

u/Emuin · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6

​

We use these at work, they give pretty good signal

u/Tanuki7 · 1 pointr/StudioOne

Is it possible to connect the mixer to the wireless?

If not natively, with something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-Universal-Ethernet-Adapter-GWU627/dp/B004UAKCS6

u/Hotblack_Desiato_ · 1 pointr/buildapc

In principle, a PCIe WiFi card is your best bet, and if you have the money, I highly recommend that.

In practice, you can use a dongle or an ethernet adapter (these are a lot less common than they used to be, since everything including your socks has a usb port on it these days).

However, like many people here, I'm going to suggest that you stick to cables if at all practical.

u/givesomefucks · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

i have no idea if these work well, but it has to be better than usb.

u/Stalkingofashles · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

Advance warning: I don't think this is best solved with a Pi, so this is how I'd suggest addressing the problem, rather than the question.

  1. The last time I needed to add wifi to something that only had ethernet, I simply used an ethernet to wifi adapter
    • The specific one I used was this, but for some reason they're stupid-expensive now, so unless you find a cheap one on eBay, I wouldn't suggest it. (I know it says 'access point', but there's a switch on the back)
    • This appears to be the same principle, but only 34 bucks. I haven't used it myself, but it's worth looking into
  2. If the reason you're using wifi is just to avoid the annoying cable, you might be able to use a 'powerline' adapter
    • They simply run networking over your home's AC wiring
    • e.g. here
    • The catch is that, depending on the brand, and how your home/work is wired, it may or may not work (or at least well). It certainly can work well, and when it does, it's super-simple to set up

      If possible, I'd be inclined to try for #1, but I think either should apply.

      As for how to do it with a Pi, you should be able to put the Pi beside the machine and connect wirelessly, plug the machine into the Pi's ethernet, and then set up a 'bridge' to share the connection. I've never done it with a Pi specifically, but back in the day it was very easy to set up on Ubuntu on a netbook.
u/liquid1ce · 1 pointr/jailbreak

Incase anyone is interested - I got it to work! I started off buying this: https://www.amazon.com/Apple-MK0W2AM-Lightning-Camera-Adapter/dp/B01F7KJDIM/ which allows you to charge the phone and power the USB to Ethernet Adapter. Unfortunately, this only seems to work with newer versions of iOS (it says "Device is not supported" when I plug it into my iOS 9.1 devices).

I had to buy this one: https://www.amazon.com/Lightning-to-USB-Camera-Adapter/dp/B014VGHG0U/

The Apple USB to Ethernet Adapter: https://www.amazon.com/Apple-USB-Ethernet-Adapter-MC704LL/dp/B00W7W9FK0

And also buy a powered USB hub (any one should I work, but this one is powered by microusb so I can plug it into a car charger): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0192LPK5M/

Lastly, I had to buy an Ethernet to Wi-Fi Adapter (I bought this one, again because it is USB powered - any one should work though): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004UAKCS6/

So the extremely complicated solution is to have my iPhone 6S Jailbroken on iOS 9.1 connected over wireless CarPlay (uses Wi-Fi Direct) - so to get Internet data, I have the iPhone Lightning to USB Adapter connected to Anker USB Hub which is plugged into a car charger and the Apple USB Ethernet Adapter, then over Ethernet to the IOGear Wi-Fi Adapter. The IOGear Wi-Fi Adapter is configured to connect to my iPhone 6S Plus's HotSpot.

The bad thing with this is I cannot charge the Jailbroken 6S while I do this (I bought a lightning splitter to see if this will allow me to charge).

If I was on iOS 10.2 Jailbroken, I could use the newer Apple Lightning USB Adapter which can charge the phone too and get rid of the Anker USB hub. Maybe 10.3.2 will get jailbroken soon! :)

If Apple allowed Bluetooth Tethering like they do with iPads and iPod Touches, I could have simply tethered one iPhone to the other, but for whatever reason Apple doesn't allow that and there doesn't seem to be a tweak to fix this that I can find.

u/Fallonite · 1 pointr/techsupport

This setup is in the basement, where network cabling is impossible to get to without drilling through flooring and creating a huge mess. That's where the powerline adapters come in.

However, on my quest to research wireless bridges, I stumbled on this:

IOGEAR Universal Ethernet to Wi-Fi N Adapter for Home or Office, GWU627 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UAKCS6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-DwYzbRWNHWN3

It claims to turn any wired device into a wireless device. Could I plug this into the WAN port on my router and bypass the Powerline completely? The wireless reception down there has never been too bad, currently I use it since the wired connection is so slow and so far it's pretty decent.

u/ceol_ · 1 pointr/ffxiv

Are you running the game over the PS3's WiFi? If so, I would suggest you hook it up directly to your router. If you cannot do that and your router has wireless-N functionality, get an Ethernet to wireless-N adapter. I had really bad lag problems on my PS3 but they went away (for the most part aside from SE's screwups) when I got that adapter.

u/sininspira · 1 pointr/Hue

I assume this is for the Hue bridge since you're posting in the Hue subreddit. Something like this should work: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UAKCS6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kqpbBbTMC0JYK

Or, as others have suggested, get a network extender/wireless bridge with ethernet ports.

u/whitethundar · 1 pointr/4GCommunity

I'm not sure if it can do both. Although, an option you may be interested is you can get an the IOgear universal adapter. This will connect to the hotspot via wifi and allow you to connect via an ethernet port.

u/nnin01 · 1 pointr/italy

Ciao, come hanno già detto gli altri, assemblare il pc da soli è fondamentale per chi ha un budget.
Assemblarlo da soli può essere un problema per chi non ha esperienza, ma è facilmente risolvibile grazie all'aiuto di un amico o documentandosi su internet.
Inizia cercando delle guide su google. Ti linko questa guida che ho trovato su youtube, grazie a questo video ho assemblato il mio primo pc due settimane fa.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HIPUkapmSwA

Per quanto riguarda la lista dei componenti eccoti una lista fatta da me. Ho scelto i pezzi scegliendo quelli che offrono il miglior rapporto qualità prezzo.
Tieni a mente che il prezzo totale può oscillare in base alle perifiche che già possiedi o meno, e che i prezzi dei singoli componenti oscillano di continuo e che i prezzi riportati fanno riferimento al momento in cui ho stilato la lista





CPU AMD-FX-6300 110,28 €

SCHEDA MADRE ASUS M5A78L-M LX3 39 €

RAM Kingston HyperX Fury Memorie DDR-III da 8 GB 32,99€

SCHEDA VIDEO MSI Nvidia GeForce GTX 750Ti 124,21 €

CASE NOX NXPAX 31,78

HARD DISK SEAGATE DA 2 TB 62,99 €

ALIMENTATORE CORSAIR VS550 48,99 €

ADATTATORE WIRELESS TP-Link TL-WDN4800 18,49 €

SISTEMA OPERATIVO WINDOWS 10 PRO 25,99 €

Tot.: 494,77

OPZIONALE:

LETTORE CD /DVD/ BLU RAY ASUS BLU RAY COMBO 65 €


Se ti servono anche perifiche come mouse, tastiera e schermo ti consiglio di non comprare la scheda video. Potrai sempre acquistarla in seguito non appena avrai messo qualche altro euro da parte.

u/CoroBazar · 1 pointr/buildapcforme

Hey, I checked out the build you submited yourself:

> > > > After researching for some time, I finally came up with this build:
> > > > PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
> > > >
> > > > Type|Item|Price
> > > > :----|:----|:----
> > > > CPU | Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | £128.34 @ Aria PC
> > > > Motherboard | MSI Z97 PC MATE ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | £61.08 @ Ebuyer
> > > > Memory | Kingston Fury Red Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory | £61.74 @ Amazon UK
> > > > Storage | Samsung 840 EVO 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | £55.00 @ Aria PC
> > > > Storage | Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | £35.94 @ Aria PC
> > > > Video Card | Gigabyte Radeon R9 280 3GB WINDFORCE Video Card | £163.90 @ Scan.co.uk
> > > > Case | Thermaltake Chaser A31 Snow White ATX Mid Tower Case | £57.67 @ CCL Computers
> > > > Power Supply | Corsair Builder 750W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | £59.98 @ Amazon UK
> > > > Operating System | Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) | £69.38 @ Amazon UK
> > > > Monitor | BenQ GL2450HM 60Hz 24.0" Monitor | £113.99 @ Amazon UK
> > > > Wireless Network Adapter | TP-Link TL-WDN4800 802.11a/b/g/n PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter | £26.90 @ Aria PC
> > > > | | Total
> > > > | Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | £833.92
> > > > | Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-09-26 21:03 BST+0100 |
> > > >
> > > > I keep trying to lower the price, but always end up here as I am worried about not being able to get the best performance at high settings (hopefully 60fps).
> > > >
> > > > If anyone can help me try to bring the cost down as low as possible, while still being able to get good enough performance, I would really appreciate it!


Let's try to reduce the price.

So, you don't need the Z97 as you aren't overclocking.
We can still find a H97 if you don't want any Haswell problem. Check this MOBO.

You can easily find a cheaper wireless adaptater. Have a look at this one.

This SSD is cheaper and has no such problem like hte 840 EVO.

And now, the only thing that is a bit too pricey is the GPU. Well, did you know that cheaper/older GPUs also run games in ultra? Like this one

'hope it helped

*also you certainly don't need that CPU. Check out the lower tier

u/st3tienne · 1 pointr/buildapcforme
u/ManTiZz · 1 pointr/buildapc

Currently my Laptop acts as a Wifi Hotspot. If I build a Wifi Card into my PC, will i be able to setup a hotspot as well? Example for Card

u/Jaybains95 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Is there any reason to go for this instead of buying this and this separately?

u/mcKempt · 1 pointr/buildapc

Oh, you're not US.

Uh, this, maybe? It should fit as long as you have an open PCI-Express slot. Just get the one that fits your budget; the cheaper it is the slower it is.

If that doesn't help it, you probably have super shitty internet service. :(

u/HowDoIMathThough · 1 pointr/buildapc

That monitor is AMD Freesync compatible - to make good use of that, you should get an AMD card like the slightly better performing R9 390

Rather than spending £70 on a cooler, I'd suggest getting the i7-6700k and a cheap cooler like the £15 raijintek aidos - spending £1500 and only getting an i5 seems a bit odd. Start by running at stock speeds and don't overclock yet, overclocking and especially overvolting does wear chips out and increase the voltages needed for the same clocks within a few years.

You can save a tenner by getting this wireless adapter instead - if your PC is a long way fropm your router you might want to spend that tenner on a couple of these extended antennas, as computer cases are very good at blocking wifi signals.

u/Hackronym · 1 pointr/buildapc

If anything, I'd recommend upgrading the wifi card, I had one similar to the one you listed until I upgraded to this one, it's pretty damn good for not much more. Plus it supports packet injection and Access Point mode.

Everything else seems fine, if you're just doing online poker then you don't need too much. If RAM is a concern then maybe opt for dual channel instead of a single stick.

u/JAP_MOD · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I found this card before you commented, which seems fine.

u/georgefrs · 1 pointr/buildapc

TP Link make good stuff.

I'd stick with the PCI-E solution over a USB one as it's neater and not constrained by the power available on the USB bus.

I would however consider getting the 300mbps version as it has MIMO and a few other features that'll help future proof it a bit and it's only £5 extra:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/TL-WN881ND-300Mbps-Wireless-Express-Adapter/dp/B006BSPTAQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1367665634&sr=1-2&keywords=TL-WDN4800

u/IVIOOBS · 1 pointr/buildapc

I tried this and I'm getting 14mbp down when connected to the powerline so it seems that is the problem.

When I built the PC I bought this wireless card but my computer wasn't agreeing with it so I had to return it.

What other options could I look into?

u/Drunkenmeows · 1 pointr/buildapc

PCIe

I wouldn't Don't worry about having problems on gaming wireless, get something 300mbps+ I'm pretty sure you'll have a wireless connection that far outstrips your internet connection.

I personally use [this] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B006BSPTAQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1).

If you want wired, give a look at a powerline adapter. Connection speed is largely dependent on how old your wiring is.

u/Matt1509 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

My PC Is like 25 metres from my router, i don't have a ethernet cable this long, i can get one but i was wondering if that would help at such a distance? Also i'm using http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B006BSPTAQ?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s03 so my mobo doesn't matter

u/rorydolan · 1 pointr/buildapc
u/Karate_Fried_Chicken · 1 pointr/buildapc

Which wifi card should I buy? Any real difference?
Asus PCE-N15
Or TP-LINK TL-WN881ND

u/by_a_pyre_light · 1 pointr/laptops

I don't have any personal experience with them. My XPS 14 has a dedicated RJ45 jack (shame that they got rid of that model and also that the 15 doesn't retain the port). Linus from LTT mentioned needing one in one of his Razer Blade reviews, and if I go to QuakeCon this year, I'll need to pick one up for my Razer Blade as well.

This one should work for you and it has 4+ stars from 700+ ratings, for $10.

u/zachhanson94 · 1 pointr/techsupport

$10 from amazon https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Ethernet-Adapter-Supporting/dp/B00ET4KHJ2

and sorry if I insulted your intelligence. It’s just hard to tell sometimes if people just mistyped or if they genuinely don’t know what they are talking about.

u/A_Very_Brave_Taco · 1 pointr/homelab

It's nothing special. Maybe a Cable Matters USB 2.0 10/100 ? I don't remember. It was only $10, and I don't use it for anything but troubleshooting.

u/SoCo_cpp · 1 pointr/techsupport

This thing isn't going to work. You don't just need and adapter, you need an active converter.

Really, they aren't that expensive, nor do they look very different. You need a "USB Ethernet Adapter".

Here's an example: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Ethernet-Network-Adapter/dp/B00ET4KHJ2

Why is what you have wrong? Because it is a direct conversion from USB to RJ45 (the Ethernet cable connector). It has the same connector, but skips doing the whole Ethernet part. It may be used for odd serial data transfers, like fancy serial com port tricks.