Best network & cable testers according to redditors
We found 362 Reddit comments discussing the best network & cable testers. We ranked the 82 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 362 Reddit comments discussing the best network & cable testers. We ranked the 82 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Read through the links before you add anything to your cart, the tools at the top are what I personally use and can vouch for, the tools at the bottom are in kits and case save you some money if you only do this once in a while but I can't vouch for the quality. I'm also assuming you own a wire stripper.
Crimping tool(17$):
TRENDnet 8P/RJ-45 and 6P/RJ-12, RJ-11 Crimp, Cut, and Strip Tool, TC-CT68 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AZK4G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_piZVAbZZVWPM7
Has a built in perfect cut wire strippers
Connectors(9$):
Cybertech Cat6, Cat5e RJ-45 8P8C Ethernet Modular Crimp Connectors Plugs Pack of 100 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LG6DQUI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YiZVAb72959BY
Cat5e Cable(25$) (200ft, pre-made but you can clip and make your own out of it)
200FT Feet CAT5 Cat5e Ethernet Patch Cable - RJ45 Computer Networking Wire Cord (White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071XBHM6Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_RkZVAbZ8D2F00
The cable is actually not that good of a deal because you can get 1000ft for 50$ without any ends, but I was aiming for sub 50$.
Total cost: 51$
Additional extras I'd recommend:
Cable tester(8$) tests if the cables and connections you made are good. A great investment for beginners and pros)
Zoostliss Network Cable Tester RJ45 RJ11 RJ12 UTP LAN Cable Tester Networking Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XZYXN63/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_tnZVAb616Y59H
Cable boots(6$) protect your cable ends from having the tips broken and looks cleaner IMO
uxcell 100 Pcs Soft Plastic Ethernet RJ45 Cable Connector Boots Cover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K82RNX2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qoZVAb54MHXCJ
They also have combo kits like this that exist, I can't speak to their quality but the tools are simple tools so this may save you some scratch
>UbiGear Cable Tester +Crimp Crimper +100 RJ45 CAT5 CAT5e Connector Plug Network Tool Kits (Crimper315) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008UY5WL0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hqZVAb8RM9GVK
Has the tester and everything, includes a wire stripper which is nice
>Maxmoral 7 in 1 Cable Tester + Crimp Crimper + Wire Stripper + 50 RJ45 CAT5 CAT5e Connector Plug + 100 Cable Ties + 100 Cable Cord Holder Clips + 2 Ethernet Connector Network Tool Kits https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J7S5X6Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_VrZVAb10QP91E
Same deal, has boots though.
You probably want something like this, which is a toner and inductive amplifier, aka fox and hound. You plug one end of the cable (or use the alligator clips) into the tone generator, and use the probe on the other unit to locate the signal. Or you could punch down/terminate both ends and move the tester until you found the right pair.
This may be better suited to /r/networking but I'll give it a shot:
We're a quickly growing small business that relies heavily on our network infrastructure. As we grow we are continually moving people around and adding/repurposing lines. Our office is composed of three major sections, New Office, Old Office, and Warehouse.
When we did our most recent expansion (The New Office) we relocated our server room and had all the wire in the new space ripped out and replaced as well as certified with a Fluke DTX. That side of the office is fine and has well documented patch panels and port maps. The old side of the office has what I kindly refer to as a "Rasta-Bundle". Whoever installed the wiring (it pre-dates our tenancy in the building) used every conceivable color (though mostly red, yellow, and green) and length of Cat 5 (some is 5E). Wires go into the ceiling in every direction and in some cases are spliced in the ceiling.
Ideally as we grow we're going to want to be able to identify bad wires and could use a general idea of the condition of the wires that are in the wall (and if necessary pay to have them replaced). Would we be better off buying something like a Fluke Link Runner to have on hand (or is there something better?) in the future or is renting a Fluke DTX for ~400$ for a week to gauge how bad it is now a better plan?
From the looks of the spaghetti on the floor there, it looks to be 14 gauge.
There appears to be a mix of one 14x4 and two 14x2 wires.
This only looks like where the previous owner spliced and extended the wiring. 14 guage should be enough unless its a really long run.
You need to find where both ends terminate. One end should terminate where the speakers are located and the other terminate where the reciever or amp terminates.
You can use an app or a battery to test, but the easiest way to see where each goes is to use a tone generator.
I used a tone generator to find the wires I put in after my idiot contractor drywalled over all of them and it worked like a charm finding where they ran under the drywall.
Somthing like this would do the trick
https://www.amazon.com/Extech-TG20-Wire-Tracer-Generator/dp/B00APD16D2/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=tone+generator&qid=1564597096&s=gateway&sprefix=Tone+gene&sr=8-4
https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-MS2-100-Cable-Tester/dp/B000QJ3G42?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_2
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Anything from Fluke will work for ages
I use a decent ($100) one of these every day for work.
Before, I used a cheap-ass ($20) one every now and again for work.
I have NEVER seen a cable tester/tone generator fry a network appliance. I've had network appliances fry a cable tester (those cheap ones really dislike passive PoE).
Your patch panel is fucky, but that's easy to fix. Get a punchdown tool and re-terminate. There should be color coding on the back of the panel to tell you what wires should go where. If not, Google is your friend. It seems like this panel likely used to run cables for telephony, or something else aside from networking. No biggie to fix, just takes a little time and diligence.
Your router, and anything else on the other end of these runs, should be totally fine.
Edited to add links.
I think what you want is a Toner & Probe.
Basically you plug one side in the jack you want to locate, then use the probe to sweep across the patch panels to locate which one it is.
As for labeling, I've come to like the <IDFroom><Patchpanel><Number>. Like 101A23 (IDF Room 101, Patch panel A, port 23).
Edit :
Good ones are expensive. Cheap ones kinda work but are very frustrating. You'll waste more money in labour than you save buying a $30 one.
I have this fluke cable tracer and it works quite well. It's not super expensive, and it will trace wires fairly well, though if there are a lot of wires in a tight bundle it can still be difficult to pick out exactly which one the signal is coming from.
What it doesn't do that more expensive ones can is test the signal quality on the cables and determine how far away breaks are. It only does basic toning to make sure all the pairs are connected and in the right order.
Fluke Intellitone Pro 200.
Can also trace individual cables burried in a bundle and other challenging trace environments.
Patch cables being 568B and in-wall jacks being 568A are absolutely not a problem. BUT, if half your house is 568A in-wall and the other half 568B, my spider senses would definitely be tingling that you've just plain got some miswired jacks. I'd recommend grabbing an inexpensive cable tester (example) and making certain all runs are okay.
Chances are one of the wires isn't connected. All 4 wire pairs are needed for Gigabit.
Get a cheap network tester. It doesn't have to be this exact one but they should all be similar.
I have tested several tools for my job and now i am using this from Fluke : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000QJ6S06?ref=emc_b_5_i
Believe it or not there were several times that i couldn't be sure if the cable was the right one and i was using this $5 buzzer to be 100% sure!
Did you test the cable with a tester? If you mess up even one wire you will be stuck with a 100Mb/s link. I'm assuming the 11.4MB/s is transfer speed to/from the NAS, which checks out because the most the cable would allow is 12.5MB/s and that is before factoring in overhead. I would invest in a basic cable tester if you haven't already, and cut your current connectors and try again.
edit: Sorry, I didn't notice this part of the post at first:
>I'm assuming I did wire everything correctly as otherwise I wouldn't be able to ping my router/transfer data at all, correct?
You would think, but actually 100Base-T (100Mb/s Fast Ethernet) only requires 2 out of the 4 pairs to be connected. 1000Base-T (1000Mb/s Gigabit Ethernet) requires all 4 pairs, and obviously is what you want. So it's possible to mess up but still get an okay connection. Sometimes even if the wire is in the right spot it isn't inserted enough to engage the clips in the connector when you crimp it.
This is the cheapest one I’d recommend
Docooler 4-in-1 Remote RJ11 RJ45 USB BNC LAN Network Phone Cable Tester Meter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQH4XPW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0.zPCb5YJRBKF
Just have to keep good batteries in it otherwise it’ll show everything as fail.
If you have a few bucks more, this is what I’d recommend on the sub $75
Noyafa D3IN0004 NF-308 Network Telephone Audio Cable Length Tester Remote Identifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F5W9GLW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jfAPCb7MMSJ7F
Past that, then Klein tools are a better deal as they’re are reliable as fuck.
Klein Tools VDV526-052 RJ45 Tester, Continuity Tester, Data Cable Tester, LAN Scout Jr. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004CI9NRM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RgAPCb5P1B8X6
It looks like you have male RJ-45 ends on them. One option would just be to buy a switch and plug them all in that way. Plug your router/modem into the switch as well and they should all become active.
If you want a cleaner look, you could get a patch panel and terminate those cables to that and run patch cables to a switch.
If you want to find out what cables go where, I would suggest something like this toner to trace out the cables.
Get a tone tracer http://www.amazon.com/Extech-TG20-Wire-Tracer-Generator/dp/B00APD16D2
Normally used for telephone work. Cross connect wiring in a phone central office is usually all the same blue and white wire... Thousands of them from rack to rack. Tone generator sends out a signal. Receiver picks it up, gets louder as you get closer.
Multimeter and tone generator are going to be a must here.
Something cheap like this https://www.amazon.com/Extech-TG20-Wire-Tracer-Generator/dp/B00APD16D2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1525382409&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=tone+generator+and+probe&amp;dpID=41weL%252BldgUL&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch would do the trick nicely.
What you do is put the aligator clips on the panel end of a wire and then take the probe out to the different devices and listen for the tone. If you put the tone generator on a wire and you can't get a tone, switch it to the continuity setting. If the wire is showing continuity, then you'll want to open doors and windows one at a time until you see the continuity go away. You've just identified that wire.
Once you've identified where each wire goes, you'll need to identify where they're supposed to be tied into the DSC system. You'll need to look in the programming for that.
http://cms.dsc.com/download2.php?t=1&amp;id=13598 is a direct link to the manual for your panel in PDF.
I've never used this specific product, but it looks like what you need, and seems to have good reviews @ Amazon.
This is the kind of tool every IT shop should possess, so your boss should buy this for you.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HCQSHNG
It's the wire mapping & continuity tool that you need.
The probe stuff you don't need today, but might need some other day in the future.
That will let you test each cable (both your patch cords, and the in-wall cables that they installed) to ensure the wire map is correct and all 8 wires show good connectivity.
This is a primitive test. This is not highly scientific. This will not "certify" that those cables are good. But this is a good, cheap first test.
Kinda like popping the hood of your car to try to look and see what the noise is or where the small is coming from - even if you're not a mechanic - having a look is just the intelligent thing to do.
The wire map & continuity test is the same thing. Taking a quick look at things.
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The short cables you provided, those are patch cords, or patch cables.
Where do you buy them? What does it say on the cable jacket?
Do you remember about what you paid for each of them?
example
I'm most concerned to hear if you find the letters or the term "CCA" on the cable jacket.
CCA indicates Copper Clad Aluminum which are the worst and most evil kind of ethernet cabling on the planet.
CCA is actually kind of rare since it is so low a quality only shady businesses even sell the product.
What does the cable jacket say on the cables they installed for you?
Can you take a picture at the patch panel side and link it to this thread?
This is the image I want to see.
Not This I don't need to see the front of the equipment.
you didn't really ask a question, so I have to infer that you're asking why you're only getting 100mbps on some, and Gigabit on others?
100mbps networking, or 100BaseTX, only requires connectivity on two pairs: pins 1,2 and pins 3,6. where pairs on pins 4/5 and 7/8 are unused. This gives 100mbps in each direction (full duplex).
Alternatively, 1000BaseT, the most common copper Gigabit standard, uses all 4 pairs in the wire to handle the 1000mbps throughput. Duplexing is not an option, since there isn't half-duplex operation built into the 1000baseT standard. so it always requires all four pairs to be correctly connected to work.
additionally, older and especially more budget PCs will provide only "FE" or "Fast Ethernet" network interfaces, which are only capable of 10/100mbps operation (10BaseT and 100BaseTX). Regardless of what's on the other end.
So a few things could be happening: you could have a wire with only two pairs connected - it's uncommon but I've seen it with patch cables; cheap wires only connected pairs 1/2 and 3/6. and that exists somewhere in the link, either in the patch at one end or the other, or the cabling inbetween; OR, Some of the extra wires necessary for 1000BaseT are damaged, and therefore inoperable; OR, the device on one end or the other doesn't support Gigabit operation.
In my experience one or more of those things will be true in your situation. If you want to validate your cables, you can buy a cheap cable tester ( something like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Zoostliss-Network-Cable-Tester-Networking/dp/B06XZYXN63 ), and it will show you whether or not all pairs are correctly connected.
Good Luck.
These are helpful little things Zoostliss Network Cable Tester RJ45 RJ11 RJ12 UTP LAN Cable Tester Networking Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XZYXN63/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oGpvCbWQEFE94 to make sure the wiring is all correct if the issue persists I would then try requiring TIA568B.
Does anybody know what kind of scissors those are? They look like my fluke scissors but only one side has the cutting leverage handle thingy lol. Don't know the technical name. If anybody else wants to recommend what scissors they use. I've been using these since they are very sharp and awesome.
https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-D-Snip-Cable-Scissors/dp/B000E5VAXM
Get a Patch Panel, a Punch Down tool, a ethernet crimper, some ethernet ends (i prefer the EZ, but they are pricy), and a network tester. All that for $70 and you can terminate and troubleshoot all the cables you desire!
My personal kit is a little more expensive, but really the only thing I wouldn't trade for a cheaper tool is the tester. Crimper, Punchdown, Tester.
Crimpers: I've had Monoprice's 3-way Modular crimper for over a year now, crimped 200+ ends, and still love it. You'll probably want a jacket stripper to go with it.
Tester: If this is for home-use, and not to "learn" about advanced testers / certifiers, then a simple, cheap, well-rated unit is fine. I've got one of those brandless jobs as a dirt-cheap "backup" (not that I've needed it for that) to the ByteBrothers Real World Certifier (which is a great unit that's significantly cheaper than others that share its feature set). For something in between those two, one of Klein's low-to-mid range models like the LAN Scout Junior might be ok.
Cable: Where are you installing it? Are these just short patch cables, or are we talking long runs through the walls/ceiling? Monoprice has an excellent selection of Cat 6. Short answer: if you want it to flex (short runs, patch cables, frequently moved), buy STRANDED core. For longer runs, in walls / ceiling, that won't move, buy SOLID core. And make sure you get Cat 6 rated modular connectors (the RJ-45 "ends") that match the type of wire core you're using.
I use boots on patch cables; it takes some of the stress off the connector. Not everyone does it though, and it's not absolutely critical if you've got a good solid crimp on your connectors. If you use them, you'll forget to put a boot on at least one. Probably more like every 10th end you crimp, at first.
First of all, great to see that all the cables are terminating in one spot.
Are you planning on making all the jacks for your network, or are you planning on leaving a couple jacks for your telephone?
What you need to do is attach those network cables to a patch panel. Since you already have the OnQ telephone distribution module, probably the easiest replacement would be the OnQ Network Interface Module:
http://www.amazon.com/On-Q-Legrand-363486-01-Network-Interface/dp/B0002M5NKI
A cheaper option is the Leviton panel: http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-001-47603-0C5-Category-Voice-Expansion/dp/B00022742I/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1414892331&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=leviton+network
You could buy 3 of those patch panels to provide a jack for each cable in your house.
Now, what if you want to leave some jacks as telephone jacks? one of the issues is that since I don't see any labelling, you don't know quick cable goes to where.
You could buy a toner (http://www.amazon.com/VicTsing-Network-Ethernet-Telephone-Tracking/dp/B008G8KE90/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1414891492&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=network+toner) but the telephone distribution module will redistribute the toner signal to all the other cables (making locating difficult).
A "Plan of Attack" would be:
Note: Since the house was prewired for telephone, the jacks in each room may only be RJ-11 (4P4C) and/or only have one pair punched down. You might want to see if they are RJ-45 Jacks (8P8C) and have all 4 pairs punched down.
Edit: Since it seems you only have a cordless phone in the house (and if you are willing to make all jacks network jacks), you can ignore steps 3 & 5.
What about something like this?
http://www.amazon.com/Extech-TG20-Wire-Tracer-Generator/dp/B00APD16D2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1413756891&amp;sr=8-2
Agreed. But go with the intellitoner if you can afford it.
I was able to easily find lines in a boat I couldn't trace with an analog toner due to noise.
https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-MT-8200-60-KIT-IntelliTone-Toner/dp/B00N2S6RPY
You probably should punch down those ends on a "better" patch panel like this:
https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Unshielded-Wallmount-Rackmount-TC-P24C5E/dp/B00008AWL3/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1466713111&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=patch+panel
It doesn't have to be the exact one, it's just for reference. Keep in mind to keep interference down that can mess with your transfer rates that you will want to keep the amount of wiring that is untwisted to a minimum. Once you are punched down you can get a ton and probe kit, relatively cheap to check that you punched down the wire correctly and that it is terminated correctly on the other end as well, presumably in a keystone jack for a wall. This will also allow you to find which wires go where in your house. Also, you will have to determine which standard for wiring was used, T568A or T568B. You can check this before punching anything down by taking a wall plate out and investigating how the cat5e was terminate at the wall plates.
You can get a cheap line tester like this that will do the job fine.
https://www.amazon.com/Tonor-RJ45-Network-Cable-Tester/dp/B00OUFX38W/ref=sr_1_18?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1466713437&amp;sr=1-18&amp;keywords=tone+and+probe
I've actually used this exact one at home when I've left my commercial fluke equipment at work. It feels cheap, but it does the job. Good luck, once it's done and done correctly it's very nice to have a wired home with the ability to add wireless access points throughout your home.
You can go cheap on the opening tools without being penalized.
Laptops and the like aren't cars - they don't require tons of force but you DO need the right bits and/or shims to get them open without stripping heads or damaging plastics.
Something similar to this which has a bunch of bits, magnetized pickup, and "guitar" style plastic pry tools should do fine.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073ZWY386/ref=twister_B07FMWPBKN
A portable multimeter is always useful, I like the ones that fold in on themselves so you can throw them in a bag.
https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Multimeter-Ranging-Pocket-Tester/dp/B06Y4RZY45
Get some Cat5e clips, put them in a ziploc, and throw them in your bag along with a crimping tool, needle nose pliers, and wire stripper. You will be surprised how often you need to re-crimp a cable or make a new one on-site.
Note - if you don't know how to make a cable, definitely practice that first!
Get an ethernet/phone continuity tester. You don't need a Fluke CableIQ (they're nice though!) but a basic continuity tester will let you (laboriously) trace any ethernet jacks that need tracing. And you can test those cables you just made or just fixed.
I have one basically identical to this and I've used it for over 10 years now I think. Money well spent.
https://www.amazon.com/Tonor-RJ45-Network-Cable-Tester/dp/B00OUFX38W
As mentioned before, something to read a drive(s).
Any multi sd-card reader will do but instead of a dock you may want something like this since it is more portable. Yet another thing I've had for over 5 years and used countless times.
https://www.amazon.com/AGPtek-Drive-Adapter-Converter-External/dp/B00BIE996S
None of the below links are affilliate.
If you're getting into more network layer stuff, you'll want a cable toner, RJ-45 Ends, Cat 5 or 6 Cable, RJ-45 Crimper as well.
Could try a network cable tester like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XZYXN63
You use something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Tracker-Network-Ethernet-Collation-Telephone/dp/B06Y5K1W2B
Hook the tone generator to one end of the wire and the tone will play at the probe when you touch the other end. It won't let you trace the path through the walls, but will let you match the connected cable ends.
I can not speak highly enough about Fluke's intellitone equipment. It's not cheap, but it is well worth the price. The basic kit starts at about $160
(Amazon Link)
One of the reasons I really like the Intellitone is it is digital instead of analog. This means it won't pick up interference from near by florescent lights or network chatter from other cables. With the Cisco equipment, you can also tone "live" cables plugged into a switch, which is HUGELY useful when the guy before you didn't leave any documentation.
If you have the money (or an employer to pay for it), the Microscanner is a nice entry level tester which will also work with the intellitone wand. It is a little pricey starting at about $400 (Amazon Link)
Whatever tester you get, make sure it can do TDR. Knowing the length of a cable in the wall is incredibly useful for tracking down the other end.
The only rule I have for crimper's is make sure they are ratcheting. After crimping 20-30 ends in a row, your hands will get tired and you won't always make proper crimps unless you have the ratchet to make sure. A padded handle also helps. The Ratchet Telemaster (Amazon Link) has served me well for many years. Also, if you turn them upside down and look at the red plastic guard, it looks like a face chomping the cable when you trim the ends, which to this day still cracks me up.
Reading your post I'm not 100% sure if you need something that'll test network connectivity, but I have this for my personal kit and it is a great tool: https://smile.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-MS2-100-Cable-Tester/dp/B000QJ3G42
I'd start with the cheaper $500 option and like you said if you are asked to certify the cable rent one or buy the Pocket Ethernet (sure it isn't rugged, but even a $10k tester you'll be taking good care of) and isn't going to break the bank to buy a new one if it gets broken.
I don't generally see bad cables creating 'occasional network problems' either it works or it doesn't. I've dealt with bad patch panels that caused degraded connectivity where 1Gb devices would only connect at 10/100Mb. A decent tester can check cable distances and pair connectivity - buy one and use it. The cabling may not be officially certified, but you'll be able to find issues, fix them, and verify your cabling. After that you have the equipment to continue to support cabling issues/additions.
Seems like budget is an issue, so you could use said tester to check the handmade patch cables instead of buying a bunch of new ones. The gift that keeps giving.
https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-MS2-100-Cable-Tester/dp/B000QJ3G42
Flukes are the gold standard- he just linked you to an ancient model. A simple model like this one is what you want. I not only tests the cable (including 10/100/1000 speeds), it also comes with a toner to trace a cable in your infrastructure as well as the ability to handle PoE and POTS (Plain Old Telephone Service). There are definitely fancier models, but this one is adequate for what you listed.
The fiber testers are much more expensive, though they are fantastic. At the very least, you could afford a visual fault indicator which uses an incredibly bright laser that you can easily see with the naked eye at the termination in the cable (even over long distances- we routinely use them at 2000+ feet for our infrastructure testing).
For bigger shops with more runs, like ours, a visual inspection kit like this one is indispensable for checking your terminations and troubleshooting.
Your budget is too low for it, but this guy is what we normally use in conjunction with the visual inspection kit. There are cheaper fiber testers out there, but they tend to cost a lot more than the copper one I linked. If you absolutely need a full range fiber and copper tester, one like this should work. I'm not sure if that model comes with a remote end unit, but that would be worth getting as well.
All of the higher end testers can output your results as a report via the Fluke software on workstations.
The way I would do it is to terminate all the cables with appropriate RJ-45 plugs. Terminate the other ends of the cables at jacks, starting with the one that you want, but go ahead and do the rest. Use either two laptops or a laptop and a router to test the cables one by one and label them once you get ones that establish a link (watch the little blinky lights on the ports). You may need a couple of RJ-45 inline couplers and a couple of patch cables, depending on how much cable is sticking out of the walls. Once you have the cables id'd, you can cut the ones with plugs to jacks, depending on your need. (plugs are cheaper than jacks and I have lots of them laying around, that's why I'd do that)
There are other ways. You can get a network toning tool which has the advantage of getting to buy more tools, which is a plus in my book. :-) The way I described is how I would do it because I have the tools and materials on hand (cables, plugs, jacks, crimper).
Use one of these to find and label each end.
http://www.amazon.com/Extech-TG20-Wire-Tracer-Generator/dp/B00APD16D2/ref=pd_sxp_grid_pt_0_1
I've had to diagnose a few mystery circuits in my house, too. Turn off the power, check with your non-contact tester to make sure it's not hot, then you can use a wire tracer like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Extech-TG20-Wire-Tracer-Generator/dp/B00APD16D2/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495645071&amp;sr=8-10&amp;keywords=continuity+tester
Take pictures of the wiring of every switch you take apart, so you can return things to the way it was before, if need be.
this should do most all your talking about.
http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-MT-8200-60-KIT-IntelliTone-Generator/dp/B00N2S6RPY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1452881493&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=fluke+tester+and+tone
For value you can't beat something like this. I have used a similar one from L-com for years and have not had any issues for the ~100 home runs I have done.
Anything that will qualify the cable as cat6 is probably $1,000+.
> Any ideas on what I could be missing?
There is something inside the wall or somewhere it's connected to that you are missing. The best thing to do would be buy a cheap cable tester like THIS and after you wired to B standards then test it, it will tell you what is broken or even if there is connectivity at all.
I've got something similar to this, but in orange:
https://www.amazon.com/ELEGIANT-Multifunction-Collation-Telephone-Continuity/dp/B01HCQSHNG/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=cable+tester&qid=1558715360&s=gateway&sr=8-5
Figure out how it works with a spare patch cable, but basically you plug it in and it should count down from 1-8 in sequence. if either end skips, your cable is probably wired bad.
better test gear will show the distance to a cable fault... But that's going to cost a bit more.
This tool Will be very helpfull https://www.amazon.com/Tracker-Network-Ethernet-Collation-Telephone/dp/B06Y5K1W2B
If you don't want to lug around a laptop to each port you could get a cheap toner off of Amazon. I used one like this to trace runs in a rental house while converting their phone wallplates into ethernet.
https://www.amazon.com/Meterk-Multifunction-Instrument-Maintenance-Continuity/dp/B071K8L32H/ref=zg_bs_7701919011_6?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=B8F57T2ZW2YE349KB196
I always used to just terminate the cable then plug it into a machine to see whether it was working. Then I had to do my whole house all at once. I may be inept but it seemed like I was botching a lot of cable termination and wasting a lot of time walking around with my laptop and shuffling cables. So I bought a simple cable tester, like this one. All it really does is ensure that the termination is correct but I find it saves me a lot of hassle/time and I walk away from every cable now knowing that it is right.
You can test anytime, but if you don't have problems it probably isn't worth the expense since you're on a tight budget. It sounds like you do have occasional problems, but you have little visibility into what's going on without a proper managed switch. Getting someone to come in with a certifier is probably a bit too expensive, but it is certainly true that you won't really know for sure if the cable is the problem without certifying the lines. A certifier will test the wire map but also the electrical characteristics and whether they meet specifications for the cabling standard (Cat5e, Cat6, etc.) they are supposed to. If you intend to test with something that isn't a certifier, just be aware of the things it tests for and the things it doesn't. Cheaper testers are useful -- the Linkrunner and Linksprinter are great! -- but they are not the same as a certifier.
What is DEFINITELY a problem is that the horizontal runs just run straight into end user equipment. Structured cabling is not meant to be disturbed, and it WILL break over time. Those need to get terminated on to jacks, put into wall plates, and put into wall boxes. Frankly, it does not sound like you will have a lot of backing from management on this, but they will break down the road and it kind of sounds like your management will blame you for it.
I don't have a good recommendation for a toner that's < $100. This one is kind of the gold standard but it's about twice that much (Fluke Intellitone Pro 200): https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-IntelliTone-Toner-MT-8200-60-KIT/dp/B0749RXGB4
> Each one has one wire with red, green, black and white leads coming out of it.
That is called a 4 conductor speaker wire... so the red and black is one pair, and the green and white is the second pair. Both pairs are ran in a single shielding which is nice for installers as you're not pulling two individual pairs of wires.
&#x200B;
Why that ran it to individual speaker locations? Not sure why they did that.
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> Why are there two wires coming from the basement ceiling when there is only one in the hole for the speaker?
Only the previous home owner or whoever ran this can tell you that. Sometimes when you have inexperienced people doing this stuff you end up with crazy wiring all over the place. There is no rhyme or reason why they did what they did so its anyone's guess.
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> Is it possible that some of the wires that are bundles with the speaker wires in the basement are there to power something else in the house?
Absolutely, when I built my house 5 years ago, I ran all the wires myself (speaker wire, Ethernet, Coax, ect..). I ran speaker wire to every room, including bathrooms, loft, garage, ect.. I then installed two in-ceiling speakers in every room and created a whole home audio system. This could have been the previous home owners plan.
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> There is wiring for alarm panels by the garage door and in the master bedroom but all the wires bundled together in the basement look the same and have the same markings
Alarm wire will be completely different than speaker wire. Alarm wiring is a single, solid copper wire inside of the sheiliding, where speaker wired is built up of multiple strands of copper wire inside of the shielding. You will easily be able to tell the difference there.
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> Short of actually hooking up speakers and a receiver is there a way to tell which wires in the basement correspond with the ones in the ceiling?
Invest in a tone generator. This will help you figure out which wires are which. Also get a good large piece of paper and a label machine. That way you can then map out all the wires, and well as label them. Going to take some time but is really the only way.
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> My question is, where are the junction boxes normally located for a setup like I have?
Depends on where you are and how new your house is.
I know that where I live ( Saskatchewan, Canada ) junction boxes are no longer allowed by code and all wiring must be done in the switch box themselves.
> Can I expect to find them in the attic?
Unlikely, but possible.
> Or will they be between the beams of the wall itself?
this is more likely.
> The rub here is I need to find the exact junction box that comes from the light switch so that I can turn the ceiling fan on with the same switch.
If you can afford it, get a tone generator http://www.amazon.com/Extech-40180-Generator-Amplifier-Circuit/dp/B00023RVNO.
> otherwise I will have to run another switch which means a lot more work.
I don't know the exact configuration of your wiring or your house, but it may APPEAR that it's easier to just tie on your new ceiling fan to existing circuits but it probably will end up being less work to just install a circuit for the fan just as u/Midnight06 has said.
This is ESPECIALLY true if your house is wired the way I described above. It will be quite irritating to add a switch leg and extra wire to the existing circuits and probably you will end up crowding the receptacles/boxes making your job much more difficult than just running a new wire to the breaker box.
I've done quite a bit of low voltage work with the contractor I'm working for and the Fluke scissors they bought me have been great for stripping any wire or cable that's not your typical (#8,10,12,14).
heres a link
I use a pair of fluke scissors at work (cable installer/technician) and the entire scissors are metal with the handle being coated in an orange grip.
I've dropped them countless times, cut through cable, metal wires, fiber glass string, etc and the blades are still great (aside from the usual hairline scratches)
I could post a picture of the condition to show you how well they've held up so far.
tl;dr fluke > fiskar
Disclaimer: I learned this from a YouTube video or am eHow I can no longer find + experience.
Sure!
You just strip the jacket off like normal, then you take the jacket (hard insulation wrapper), and you stick the open end on the end of each pair to split the pairs from the other pairs. Then for each pair you slip the jacket over one of the wires and swivel it down to the end and pull it over. Then to flatten just line up the pairs the way you need them and wiggle them back and forth with your fingertips until they straighten out. To save your fingers here, I found that the soft, rubber coated gorilla gloves from the hardware store give you the most dexterity and protection. I find the wire cutting scissors to be the most helpful once you have your flat rainbow to make a clean cut.
If you mean for the forgetting the boot problem, I don't have a solution other than cutting it off and starting over or just running with no boot. I would love if someone here has a trick.
Gloves:
Gorilla Grip 25053-26 Non-Slip Work Gloves (Large) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007Z35Y56/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AwxQDb6046HJQ
Something like this for the cutters:
Fluke Networks D-Snip Cable Scissors https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E5VAXM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BDxQDbG5JPNNK
For basics, you'll need a cat5/6 UTP stripper
http://www.amazon.com/Ideal-45-165-UTP-Cable-Stripper/dp/B000IBPRCM/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1377532523&amp;sr=8-18&amp;keywords=cat+5+UTP+stripper
A decent Punchdown tool, theres a few different brands, i use a Fluke personally.
A good set of snips is worth its weight in gold, not only for cutting cable, but for cutting larger wires, tie wraps, and fingers
http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-44300000-D-Snip-Scissors/dp/B000E5VAXM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1377532588&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=fluke+scissors
You'll need a cable tester, you can find a basic cheap one that tests for open and swapped pairs. Unless you need documented certifications, thats all you need.
And then a small flathead, medium phillips screwdriver, and a small hook for pulling out those pesky swapped wire pairs from jacks.
I will write up some more specific feedback because I am interested in seeing the Pockethernet get better, and thanks for telling me about long-pressing the measure button.
To be clear though, I wasn't comparing the Pockethernet to the AT 2000. I was comparing it to the Fluke MicroScanner 2 for $440 which I own, and the T3 Net Prowler for $730, which I might have purchased instead of the Pockethernet.
Hardware criticisms:
Make sure all internal connectors are fully seated. My battery came unplugged. Make sure that the plexiglass protection film is removed. And at least in my case, the plastic on the wiremap/loopback tester is so loose that I had to take it off to use the tester.
App Bugs (iPhone):
I experience frequent crashes. Usually it seems when I leave and return to the app, or when I save results to Dropbox using the "Send" feature. This has persisted from an iPhone 6s Plus, to a brand new installation on a brand new iPhone X.
There is also a bug where the bottom half of the app disappears, or becomes covered in a white rectangle, and I am no longer able to scroll. This might be from the app trying to hide itself where the keybaord appears. Only way to fix is to quit and relaunch the app. Very frustrating.
App Workflow:
App flow should probably be like this: First HOME screen is a grid of icons for PRESET TESTS and an icon for a CUSTOM TEST. PRESET TESTS should be user-defined groups of frequently run tests. They should be icons, because that way more fit on the screen. Clicking on a PRESET TEST should take you to the RESULTS screen.
The RESULTS screen should only show the test results of the tests you just ran. It should have some persistent icons at the bottom of the page, that include a couple of selectable PRESET tests, as well as RETEST, CUSTOM, and HOME. This will make it easy to always quickly run a test.
The RESULTS screen should have the option to save results to a DATABASE. Often I will run additional tests for an outlet in the future, and I want the ability to EXPORT all of the tests from one outlet together, not have a separate PDF for each group of tests I ran on each outlet. The PDF export should only show the results of tests that were run.
If you instead clicked CUSTOM TEST on the HOME screen, you should be taken to a grid of icons with all possible tests. Check your desired test icons, click TEST, and be taken to the same RESULTS page as before.
There should be an interface for viewing the test results in the database, and deleting of specific tests for specific outlets.
This would make the Pockethernet interface much closer to Fluke's, Ideal's, and T3's interfaces, and much more useful.
Thanks!
plenty of people have already brought up CDP and LLDP, which are ways that certain networking devices can advertise themselves to their neighbors, and can be really helpful...
Another helpful command is "sh mac-address table". That'll give you a list of all the mac addresses that switch has seen "recently" (I forget the actual timeout), and on what port. More than one mac address showing up on a port means exactly that. Several devices connected by a switch or hub are accessible via that port.
If you need to track down a particular cable and you don't have access to a toner or other helpful tool, then:
on a windows PC:
ipconfig /all
note the MAC (physical address)
on the switch
sh mac-address table | inc XXYY
XXYY being the last 4 digits of the physical address.
Why couldn't you say 100% that your cable was working? Get one of these if you don't have one or equivalent.
http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-MS2-100-MicroScanner2-Verifier/dp/B000QJ3G42
The cheapest way would be connect a device to the other end that you can monitor remotely and unplug them one at a time until the device goes offline. Like a computer, router or pretty much anything that puts out a signal while connected to internet.
I’m sure they make tools like a coax explorer for Ethernet that you could do the same with but they’d cost quite a bit more than free.
If you really want the tool for the job tho.
Fluke Networks MS2-KIT Network Cable Tester Kit with Probe https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000QJ6S06/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_od1MAb8VDFZ9X
If you're already here asking the right questions I'm confident you can get through it.
I was expecting to have to spend a couple of hours getting the AP working the way I wanted, but the whole thing literally took five minutes. It was literally, make a user account and password, assign a vlan, click next a couple of times and that was it. There would be a little more to it if you're setting up a firewall and a switch as well, but it's pretty much as easy as it can be.
You will need something to run the Ubiquiti web interface on. They sell something called a cloud key for this, but you could also use a Raspberry Pi3, since they're cheaper and do the same thing. You could also run the Ubiquiti controller software on any Linux system that you have laying around.
As for the wiring itself, what I did was get a small wall-mounted rack, like this one. Then I ran the cables to a Cat 6 patch panel, like this. From the patch panel, I ran connections to my rackmount router and switches. I've basically only ever followed the bundle of snakes cabling model in the past, so it's satisfying to have everything nice and professional looking.
I used Cable Matters stuff for wall plates and keystone jacks, etc. You'll also need a spool of CAT6 Ethernet cable, and a punchdown tool. I have a 4-way wall plate near my workstation and another 2-way near my printers.
If you do run your own connections you will want to get a cable tester. I did create one bad punchdown and this tester found it no problem. There are lots of other testers out there and I'm sure nearly all would do the job.
Good luck!
http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-LRAT-1000-LinkRunner-Ethernet/dp/B007B60F6A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1457439907&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=linkrunner+at+1000
This thing is great to figure out where wall jacks and patches connect to switches lets you know the vlan switch port ect. We got it last summer and I don't know how we lived with out. I know it is not software but this combined with a spread sheets has treated us really well.
If you're trying to figure out where those cables go, a cheap cable toner is always a huge help.
Just realized you may need to get yourself a cheap toner if you don't know which rooms are wired to where; http://www.amazon.com/VicTsing-Network-Ethernet-Telephone-Tracking/dp/B008G8KE90
IDK what that 410 thing is, tried googling it but no luck. Sounds like a switch but might be a patch panel. Anyway, what you need is to verify all cables in your home.
Go out and get yourself a Cable Toner. Plug it to your outlet in the bedroom, go downstairs and check which cable it is. Label it.
Do this for every ethernet outlet.
It's possible that these cables are wired for phone, to check this take out one of the outlets and verify if all wires are being used. Better yet take a picture and post it.
Once you have all the wires labeled, make sure the runs downstairs are properly crimped.
You now need to plug all of these runs into a switch. A regular/non smart switch is your best bet. TrendNet has some really great options.
Finally plug one cable from the router to the switch.
Final set up should look like ISP Modem > Router > Switch > all the outlets.
Get a decent crimping tool and a cheap tester to make sure your pairs are matching up on both sides. I do this for work and home and will never go back to buying Ethernet cables at specific lengths.
https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-RJ-45-RJ-12-RJ-11-TC-CT68/dp/B0000AZK4G/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=0DZ16D14CWPHKTYK159J
https://www.amazon.com/HDE-Network-Cable-Tester-Phone/dp/B009ZXYI1U/ref=lp_7701919011_1_7?s=industrial&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1524075376&amp;sr=1-7
Also, if you plan on running multiple cables, I suggest using different color boots so your cable can all be the same color (since you're buying it in bulk) but the boots are different colors to help note which cable goes where.
https://www.amazon.com/Accessbuy-Ethernet-Network-Strain-Connector/dp/B01LYLGWSY/ref=pd_bxgy_469_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B01LYLGWSY&amp;pd_rd_r=MMCFM6WPJ3Y2Y3H7M3WA&amp;pd_rd_w=3qix5&amp;pd_rd_wg=S3Y6R&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=MMCFM6WPJ3Y2Y3H7M3WA
https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-RJ-45-RJ-12-RJ-11-TC-CT68/dp/B0000AZK4G/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=0DZ16D14CWPHKTYK159J
recrimp it, you likely fucked up an end. do you have a cheap cable tester, like this? That would tell you what pair isn't working. You can usually find something similar to that at a local hardware store for around the same price as amazon.
For a single cable it does not matter what spec they used (A or B) since it is a closed cable. It would only be a problem if you wired one end as A and the other as B. Anyone suggesting that it is an A or B problem for a pre-made cable did not read your question.
You could see 100 Mbps if there was damage to some of the cable pairs in the wire. You can get a tester to see if any of the pairs are damaged. The wires can snap inside the line or get pulled out of the connector.
How long is the cable? Also buy monoprice (they sell on amazon) for great prices and pre tested cables that are not shitty Copper clad aluminum (CCA). CCA cables are not to spec and should never be purchased.
https://www.amazon.com/HDE-Network-Cable-Tester-Phone/dp/B009ZXYI1U/ref=zg_bs_7701919011_4?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=5TEW1V61S5Q1WK1RCRBJ
Cat6 cables are better but should not be necessary for what you have described so far. If you were buying new I would say go cat6 just because they don't cost that much more.
Crimper $15
Connectors $7
Snagless Boots $6
Outdoor CAT5e $50
Cable Tester $8
Charging all your neighbors to wire up their Ethernet for $50 bucks a pop: Priceless.
Bruh https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009ZXYI1U/ref=zg_bs_7701919011_4?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=QVHFZ3SJRQ3N04MBFMVQ
9 dollars
I bought a $90 Monoprice ethernet tester for personal use.
It's worth the price for the time-domain reflectometer pair-length measurement feature alone. Never again will you terminate both ends of a cable and wonder which end is bad.
This one is half the price and claims the same features, but it just seems a little too good to be true. Monoprice has never yet screwed me over, so they got my money.
Looks to me like that edge cover should come off allowing you to remove screws or clips to bring down the speaker. You could then see what wires are connected to them and use one of these to trace them back to the termination point.
maybe try getting a tone generator and then sniff out where all the lines lead and label them.
basically get one with the aligator clip and attach it to the cable in question, then go around to all of the outlets in your house with the sniffer and it will make a noise telling you where the signal is coming out.
you'll want to take the splitters off so it doesn't split the tone on to multiple lines.
http://www.amazon.com/Extech-TG20-Wire-Tracer-Generator/dp/B00APD16D2/ref=pd_sbs_indust_7?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=0XQB5G5BZ1A4G36TP4W3
at least once you have everything labelled you'll know where its all going.
Can you get your hands on a wire tracer? https://www.amazon.com/Extech-TG20-Wire-Tracer-Generator/dp/B00APD16D2?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_5
You'll need to verify the circuit dead then just attach it and follow the wand. If you want to go totally fool proof just open your main disconnect.
No that's not a tone generator, that's just a voltage detector. It's good for confirming a circuit is dead before touching bare wires and for making sure there's not a wire in a wall when you are about to drill a hole.
This is a tone generator:
http://www.amazon.com/Extech-TG20-Wire-Tracer-Generator/dp/B00APD16D2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464230762&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=tone+generator
The problem is almost certainly not behind a wall, unless someone put a junction under drywall which is not supposed to be done, or someone put a nail through one of your cables and severed a wire. But that stuff is rare compared to other kinds of problems that don't require ripping out walls.
For the breaker that does nothing, check to see if there's even a wire in it. I would leave it turned off if it was off when you found it, otherwise. You never know if someone left a live wire hanging somewhere stupid.
Also keep in mid that in most cases, when an apartment complex is set up with the ONTs in a common location, like yours, there is typically a Cat5e cable run from each apartment to the ONT room for landline phone purposes. This is very easy to repurpose for Ethernet. Just identify it (you may need a tone and probe kit for this), attach a punch-down Cat5e keystone jack to the end in your apartment, crimp an RJ45 plug onto the ONT end, plug it into the ONT, and call Verizon to have the ONT switched to Ethernet. I did just this for my brother's previous apartment.
No problem!
If you ever need help, feel free to PM if you'd like. I like fixing electrical problems :) Sometimes you need a toner tracer to find where a wire goes. These work by clipping the toner box to the bare wire, which injects a signal into the wire, and the tracer will beep like a metal detector over the wire it's clipped to. Not saying it's a necessary tool, but can be very handy.
Yeah should do if it's something like this:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Extech-TG20-Wire-Tracer-Generator/dp/B00APD16D2
You might have to be literally touching the drywall though.
I would think that a thorough search of all lights and outlets in the vicinity would solve the mystery. check that the switch is off, find outlets that are off, flip the switch to see if they come on. Seems like you're done that but not exhaustively?
I've got a box similar to this - I could pull the switch out, clip on the generator and literally follow the wire through the wall to its destination. Make sure the switch is off so you aren't tracing supply. And, still sometimes the wire goes right up the wall into the attic and you end up wandering from device to device hunting for a signal.
>I have a home built in 1959 and I believe it must have had a doorbell at some point
Based on what info? Not all houses had doorbells, some had knockers in lieu of doorbells.
>I see some small gauge wiring that looks like doorbell wire going roughly toward the door in the since-finished basement ceiling, but I've not been able to find out where it terminates at either end.
Low voltage wiring could be doorbell, alarm, speaker, irrigation, thermostat......just because you see small gauge wire doesn't mean it was a doorbell wire.
If you're sure that wire isn't used for anything else, I would get a wire tracer, cut the wire in the middle and see if you can find one or both ends. Be prepared to splice it in a junction box if you determine it's being used for something else.
https://www.amazon.com/Extech-TG20-Wire-Tracer-Generator/dp/B00APD16D2/
This is wonderful. I was able to trace a wire through a wall to find a buried junction box in an unexpected location. It's also only $20.
They may even just be hanging behind drywall somewhere. Installers do that sometimes.
You should pick up a wire tracer if you can't find the ends. http://www.amazon.com/Extech-TG20-Wire-Tracer-Generator/dp/B00APD16D2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1414521740&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=wire+tracer
I would look harder for a sort of junction box for the cables for the rest of your house. Get a tool like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Extech-TG20-Wire-Tracer-Generator/dp/B00APD16D2/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1488242973&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=tone+generator+probe So you can trace where (2 of) the wires are actually going.
If you're having trouble finding them, connect the black lead to a ground wire and you'll start broadcasting the signal, and make it easier to find your tone.
Pickup one of these to trace out the wires. They likely drywalled over them.
Get a wire toner: Extech TG20 Wire Tracer and Tone Generator https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00APD16D2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Qf4MDbP9GV1ME
(This was the cheapest one, never used it, but I used the cheapest one at harbor freight)
Clip it to the wires at the doorbell button location and turn the sending unit to tone and take the receiver and turn it on and volume up and follow the wire through the walls by following the sound received from the wire
Something such as this, you clip it to a pair of the wires in the room, in the central location use the probe to touch the wires and it will make noise the strongest when you are on the correct wire. Label both ends and then move on the the next drop.
Extech TG20 Wire Tracer and Tone Generator https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00APD16D2/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_-73YDb7XV6KCC
This is a cheap set, but if all you are doing it this one thing, it should work fine.
The blue cables terminate into what is called a 66 block. They are most commonly intended and most appropriate for voice connections. You would be better off to cut those out and re-terminate them into a normal punch down patch panel if you wanted to use them for Ethernet.
The white cables are likely data cables, but you will need to verify.
Start by toning/testing continuity on the white cables if they are not properly documented anywhere. You can grab a cheap continuity tester to verify which cables go where.
You could also unscrew one of the data ports on the wall and check what color the cable is. Looks like there are 5 blues and 3 whites. But you still need to know which cable is which.
https://www.amazon.com/Telephone-Remotes-Klein-Tools-VDV501-823/dp/B00M2DDO0Q
If the white cables are the data lines like i suspect then ignore the blues. Terminate the whites into a new punch down patch panel. Then place the home router wherever you want . All you need to do at that point is patch in the lines you want to use to the home router. Any home router will do and should come with atleast 4 lan ports by default.
Or you could even skip the patch panel and terminate the whites with new RJ45s and call it a day. The patch panel only helps you keep things tidy and is ideal if there is going to be a lot of cable changes. You can also avoid buying a RJ45 crimper and testing your own cables if you go with a punch down patch panel. New patch cables are dirty cheap on amazon or monoprice. Its not really worth it to build your own for short runs. A punch down tool should be pretty cheap and is really straight forward to use. Crimping ethernet cables takes some practice and if you dont plan to do any more cabling, might be a waste of your time.
Fluke is the lifetime brand in this dept. Below is the basic tester I buy for my structured cabling technicians. The cheaper ones will get the job done, but they sometimes fail and have inferior warranties. This is a digital toner / tracer, which also will run wiremaps, continuity, and inject tones.
https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-IntelliTone-Toner-MT-8200-60-KIT/dp/B00N2S6RPY/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1518912207&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=Fluke+tracer&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-MT-8200-60-KIT-IntelliTone-Toner/dp/B00N2S6RPY
It's like $200 bucks. You don't need each tech having their own. Get two or three, tops.
Disclosure - I have been doing cabling and telecom for 10+ years. I am recommending the same tools that I carry in my own bag.
First, that tool is garbage. I had that same kit once upon a time and the teeth in those crimps actually bent.
Since price is no option, get yourself a nice pair of crimps.
http://www.allentelproducts.com/catalog/model_AT680.htm?sid=5053870E92469B0FBDE26B823299C951&amp;pid=2010
Also, since price is no option - Get a nice toner that includes a cable mapper to make sure crimps/punchdowns are okay.
https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-MT-8200-60-KIT-IntelliTone-Toner/dp/B00N2S6RPY
You will also need a punch down tool.
https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-10055501-EverSharp-Starter/dp/B000FJCRBG/ref=sr_1_3?s=office-products&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1475089176&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=fluke+punchdown+tool
Last, do not crimp RJ-45 ends on solid copper cable. Solid copper is for terminating on jacks and patch panels. When you terminate an end on solid copper, the blade is actually not cutting through the wire as intended. Instead its either bending or cutting to side of the wire. This can lead to poor connection and oxidation of the wire over time. You will start having connection problems with no idea why. If you are set on simply using crimps, purchase your cable with stranded copper. With stranded, the blade inside of the RJ-45 end will actually cut through the middle of the wire coating and settle in between the copper strands.
Also, I would skip the Cat-7 and go with shielded CAT-6.
Well I'll be the first one to give you generic information that you could have found with the search function.
You just do the needful.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/032194318X/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=3IXCECMPTZ0C5&amp;coliid=IJFXHOHENJ2FH
https://www.amazon.com/dp/0321492668/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=3IXCECMPTZ0C5&amp;coliid=I3J2AR8V86JZMD
https://www.amazon.com/dp/0596007833/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=3IXCECMPTZ0C5&amp;coliid=I2OPTI4J0S4UG2
Good screwdriver set.
https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/64-Bit-Driver-Kit/IF145-299
A network tone tester in case you need to map out your network and document everything. Also functions as a basic cable tester.
https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-MT-8200-60-KIT-IntelliTone-Toner/dp/B00N2S6RPY/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1473701817&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=fluke+networks+tester
A punch down tool.
https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Punch-Krone-Blade-TC-PDT/dp/B0000AZK4D/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1473702091&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=punchdown
An ethernet crimper.
https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-RJ-45-RJ-12-RJ-11-TC-CT68/dp/B0000AZK4G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1473702137&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ethernet+crimper
A quick cable stripper.
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Stripper-Cutter-Cables-107051/dp/B0069LRBU6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1473702190&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=ethernet+stripper
A usb hard drive dock.
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Duplicator-Function-EC-HDD2/dp/B00IKC14OG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1473702021&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=usb+hard+drive+dock
A notebook.
https://www.amazon.com/Rhodia-Meeting-Book-Made-France/dp/B001DCDSW6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1473702220&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=rhodia+meeting+book
Your necessities may vary, this applies to more of a one-man shop, and there's plenty of other things you'll want to get that I don't have listed here depending on your job.
I dunno how much you should get paid.
For 80% of hardware work you just need a good, solid multi-tipped magnetic screwdriver and a pez dispenser full of excedrin.
Toss in a power supply tester like a Dr. Power II and you have nearly all hardware tools you need.
Just be aware that many software tools on Hirens are only licensed for personal use, using them for professional use would be a violation of license agreement.
If you're going to be checking networks, you're going to want a good fluke toner, and a fluke voltage tester so you don't kill yourself
You're also going to want a cat5 crimper that won't break
If you're troubleshooting big networks then pick up a fluke microscanner II, but only if it will save you several thousand bucks in effort.
A Toner & Probe kit would definitely help out identifying cables. There are less expensive ones, but if work's paying for it, I recommend Fluke.
You get what you pay for. I use this kit at work and it's an invaluable tool to me. Oh, oops, forgot we were in /r/homelab :D
You might want to get one of these then: https://www.amazon.com/Tonor-RJ45-Network-Cable-Tester/dp/B00OUFX38W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1474654003&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ethernet+tester
It's cheap and it will tell you if the pins are still connected. Hopefully if it's broken, it's at one of the terminations and not somewhere in the wall.
Get a cable tester, and find out where the issue is. I have this one
It is either the switch, the line to the patch panel (if you have one), the line in the wall between the switch or patch panel to the office outlet, the line from the outlet to the PC, or the PC itself. Rule them out one by one. Once you find where the issue is, you can try to figure out what the the issue is (bad cable, loose connections, improper termination etc.)
Yeah, I can see what you are trying to do now a bit better. That would work and the connector you found will do the trick. I think it is a great idea. As long as you know that the cables are put together with that junction box and when it comes time to do anything that might disturb them be careful, there's nothing wrong with using them. I might even try to find a place in the attic to screw them down, keep it up out of the insulation and out of the way of storage. When running the cable to the office, give yourself about 5 to 10 ft of slack so you can move the junctions if you need to in the future.
The only concern I would have is the cable the contractor is running, is it spliced anywhere? If it is intended for phones, is it terminated and daisy chained (no problem for phones but bad for data but would probably still work just cause problems every now and again) anywhere?
There are some very cheap cable testers on the internet ($5) , I would get one and see what I was working with. Those testers will let you know if there is a break in any of the 8 wires inside a ethernet cable. Plus you can rule out the cable if something isn't working.
Edit: cheap cable tester
If you aren't even getting Blinkenlights on multiple devices, the cable is either unplugged at the router end, or dead. If you want to be 100% sure, you can grab a cheap RJ45 Cable tester off amazon for $10. Ethernet cables, especially long runs that are getting moved around and aren't properly sent through the walls, do go bad from time to time.
It's possible not all 8 of the wires are making proper contact.
Networks try and be resilient: if there's a blockade, try and route around it, if there's a network cable problem, try and use what you do have left.
Cat 5e has 8 wires. To get full 1000mbit/s speeds, you need all 8 of those intact and working to spec. If you're missing one or several, the speed will fall down to 100mbit/s or slower.
A simple cable tester like this only costs a few bucks and is absolutely vital when running your own network cable.
More than once, I've dealt with contractors (I'm a sysadmin) who check to make sure that a network drop is working simply by plugging a laptop into one end and a switch (which is usually already present) on the other, and see if it connects. More than once, I've given them a simple cable tester like that, after showing them that the local network only supported 100mbit/s (instead of 1000mbit/s) because e.g. only 7 of the 8 wires were making proper contact.
Alternatively, it's possible that the "bridged router" (whatever the fuck that is) has issues. Why not just get a simple gigabit switch (like this) if you want to connect the cables?
By the way, if you're worried about the cable being too long (100m is the absolute hard limit, according to the spec), just put a simple switch halfway, that'll reset that limit, in this case giving you e.g. a 40m cable and a 60m cable, either of which are fine.
If there are no problems with your cables, you should have zero packet loss. If you're staying within spec (no cables longer than 100m) and your cable isn't broken anyway and the plugs are connected properly, you should have zero packet loss. Especially when staying on your own network (e.g. pinging the router or another (wired) computer in the same house.
I've been using this one for months with no issues. It's cheap and easy to use.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but you have your modem in another room, where you get 110 Mbps, and then you have a wired connection to your room where you only get 42Mbps?
Well, to answer your question in the edit, no degradation is supposed to happen over 100 ft of cable. Maybe it's wired wrong, I would get a cheap cable tester to make sure there aren't any crossed wires.
If you are running CAT cable around the house, you will probably want to run all the cable to a common point where they can connect to your patch panel, switch(es), servers/NAS and routers. Most people locate this place out of the way in a basement, to hide the clutter.
If you are running CAT cable you should really use CAT6A which is certified for 10G speed. CAT6 is not a standard. CAT6A is. I used shielded CAT6A. You should buy a spool of solid CAT6A wire that you can cut to specific lengths.One end gets wired to a keystone jack that is usually mounted in the wall of where you need to connect something. The other end is wired to the patch panel. The patch panel has normal jacks that you would use with regular premade patch cables to connect to switches which then connect to the server/NAS/router, etc.
Examples and tools needed:
CAT6A structure cable: https://www.firefold.com/064-series-cat6a-shielded-cable
Patch Panel: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AQL46TY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Small Rack to hold patch panel and switches (servers would need bigger rack):https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VDPBXM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
keystone jacks: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CLVAJCK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s03?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Wall plate mounting bracket: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003JQL0S8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Keytone wall plate cover: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0072JVUPG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s02?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Tools:
Punch down tool:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AZK4D/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s02?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
LAN Cable tester: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OUFX38W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s02?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I used to bring my own tools because i liked working with non-shit-tier equipment.
Then the CEO found out that i was bringing my own tools.
So the CEO ordered they buy a good set so i would stop doing that, and told me not to buy things for work on my own dime.
One thing i did decide to keep on-site of my own though was my network cable tester. It's so much better than what got bought for the department. It's a Fluke Networks CIQ-100 Cable Tester, and no i did not pay anywhere close to the insane prices they run now.
If there is a next time a toner like this one (amazon) is very useful. This one is sold elsewhere, I picked one up at a Home Depot some time ago.
Note that I linked an inexpensive one, however it works and is fine for the once every few years use of a home installer. If you want quality get a fluke brand one, but it's 3x the cost.
Technically this is /r/homenetworking like others have pointed out.
However, /r/homenetworking isn't really suitable for asking questions about anything involving toning out a drop and finding it on a patch panel. If you do a search for it there's basically no useful information for you there. Home networking or not, you're not just asking about "Why is my LANKSIS router so sloooooww".
Don't waste your money on a decent toner and cable tester, if it's just going to be used for a couple of drops around your house the cheapest of the cheap will do just fine. Grab one of these, plug it into the port in the room, and you can tone the cable out through the wall and easily find it on the patch panel. Once you find the port, hook up the cable mapper part of it at the patch panel and set the generator to test and you should get it sequentially going through each wire. If it tests fine on the cable map then you need to look closely at the termination itself and follow one of the many guides on YouTube to re terminate it.
https://www.ebay.com/p/Rj45-Telephone-Phone-Wire-Tracker-Tracer-Ethernet-LAN-Network-Cable-Tester-Toner/1061532813?iid=152635976413
If you need it faster, you can grab that same toner from Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/ELEGIANT-Telephone-Tracker-Ethernet-Upgraded/dp/B015EFE3XA/
That being said, you really want to check behind the wall plate first just to confirm that it's actually hooked up to something and make sure that they didn't wire up those two ports for a phone and ethernet over the same cable. I've seen plenty of wallplates for coax and ethernet that aren't actually terminated behind the wall plate.
This is the tone-generator/probe I bought:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015EFE3XA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
And yes, I connect it to one side of the wires, and can only trace it through the wall for a foot or two. It gets quieter and quieter and is eventually much too weak to hear, even with headphones. I was wondering if I could, with some modification, plug this thing into a wall to be powered instead of using a 9-volt? And actually, now that I think about it, I probably want to strengthen the probe, the tone generator is probably strong enough.
Also, is there a better sub in which I should ask about this?
A network tester like this one doesn't cost much and might help you diagnose the issue. It can test if a link is working if you plug it in at each end, and you can also use them to send a signal through the link which the other piece can detect from nearby. Pretty useful if you ever need to suss out the location of a cable through a wall or something.
Imo the most likely case is that the connection at one or more of the ends has become broken. You should be able to fix that rather easily yourself. Google "RJ45 wall jack installation" for more info on that. You would need a punch down tool for that.
Not sure how much money you want to through into it but a signal tester Is helpful ensuring all the pinouts are correct and making good contact end to end.
Especially if this is your first time crimping there might be couple times you need to cut off what you messed up and try again.
This is a selection of what I keep in my tech go-bag. You'll build your kit as you learn and build experience, or realize you could have helped a customer out of a jam quicker if you had that tool with you.
Various extra parts I've accumulated over the years like screws, ATX Molex Power to SATA Power Adapters, ATX Molex Y splitters, SATA cables etc..
Good luck and some tools overlap like multi tools and pliers so if budget is low, go with the tool that covers the most jobs.
Edit: I noticed your bag is kind of expensive compared to something like a Dewalt tool bag. I use a plain Dewalt bag which is not as cool as the one in the link, but it's just as tough. This might be a good and less expensive consideration for you if you don't require the look of a briefcase for your tool bag.
Edit 2: You may want to mark your tools with a wrap of some crazy bright color electrical tape to be able to recognize them when they walk away.
It sounds like what you're looking for is a cable tester? You'd basically connect a toner on the wall jack side that sends out a continous tone adn then you would search in the server room side for the tone to identify the drop that the signal is coming from to your patch. Then you can identify the patch going to the switch.
&#x200B;
Cheap one from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/ELEGIANT-Multifunction-Collation-Telephone-Continuity/dp/B01HCQSHNG/ref=sr_1_4?crid=170G8HQ7MQQDT&keywords=cable+tester+toner&qid=1572455475&sprefix=cable+tester+ton%2Caps%2C183&sr=8-4
I'm not 100% clear on what your problem is? You have a 16 port switch at the patch, and you're trying to use an 8 port at the other end of a run?
I don't see where you used a cable/continuity tester to confirm the drops / terminations are good. You can spend hundreds on one, but get a reasonably cheap tester. This will confirm that no pairs are broken or swapped.
----
> ... seems to be capped at 100mb/s (I cannot confirm this though, running SpeedTest on the device shows around 95mb/s,...
There are all sorts of reasons why you can't "trust" the numbers you get from some app. Always check with your hardware about what link speed it was able to negotiate. Software will help you confirm the negotiation was correct, as well as find other bottlenecks in the full connection. It's a good measurement to have, but not the important one here.
> I suspect they may have used a 100mb/s Cat5 cable for this run...if that's the case, is 100mb/s Cat5 not able to provide PoE?
cat5 is old. The unit you have was probably wired with cat5e cable; cat5 was "common" in construction during the late 90's, but should have been switched to cat5e in the early 2000's (somewhere around 2001 is when cat5e standard was "finalized")
the "cat" rating of a cable is only it's "certified" specs; as in, this cable will work at least up to $some-value. cat5e is certified for gigabit, but i have used it in applications that specified cat6a. 10/100 eithernet requires two pairs of cables, gigabit requires all four. This is why i suspect you're not getting the full gigabit speeds. You have a continuity issue on this drop; either a broken pair or a bad termination.
I don't remember which pins are used for which PoE standard, but you can push some PoE types over 10/100 connections.
Start with a simple termination/cable tester. you have an incorrectly wired termination somewhere, i think.
The last few sets I've bought in the last decade have a switch for "automatic" which show you which pair on the LEDs on the head unit which are active.
The latest one I bought was similar to this- https://www.amazon.com/Tracker-Network-Ethernet-Collation-Telephone/dp/B06Y5K1W2B/ - but not quite. I'll try to dig it out, but I haven't found it since i moved.
Find the jack that represents it in the basement, then plug that into your switch/router.
One of these will help
Do you have a friend that does LAN cabling?
&#x200B;
LAN pinger.... is the easiest way to trace any wire.
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.com/Meterk-Multifunction-Instrument-Maintenance-Continuity/dp/B071K8L32H/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=RJ11+RJ45+Telephone+Wire+Network+Tracker+Tracer&qid=1550765722&s=gateway&sr=8-4
&#x200B;
Hook up the tone one the end of the wire you can see, then probe around looking for the tone on the other end.
This is the toner/probe that I carry on the daily. Highly recommended, durable, easy to use, and can be used for rj-45/11, coax, and bare wire. Also checks cables for correct wiring.
That being said, they still cannot account for length, or for intermittent opens/shorts that are sometimes found when there are wiring issues. Though, for the last 4 years that I've used it, it's done everything that I've needed it to do.
What he said!
Extech 40180 Tone Generator and Amplifier Probe Circuit Finder Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00023RVNO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_s77kDbSBPKNRE
There are cheaper options, but you'd want to unplug the wire at the speaker, connect the tone generator to the conductors, then determine if the wires go up or down using the 'wand' by following the sound generated in the cable and vocalized by said 'wand'. Go to the basement or attic accordingly.
People who run their own cables are amazingly clever in their application, but usually you are looking at one of 3 scenarios:
Bear in mind, low voltage cabling is often done without licensing and inspection, and therefore will likely need to be ripped out upon presale inspection. People leave boxes in walls because it's easier than ripping them out, mudding them, and painting what is likely to be an entire room. Have you verified the cabling is in place? You should be able to see cables exit walls above outlet areas either in an attic, basement, or crawlspace.
If you have verified there is existing cable, it is a simple matter of determining where the cable goes in your home from the wall above a speaker - follow it until it gows down in to a different wall, identify that wall in your home, and look on both sides on every floor of that wall to find a place the cable could reasonably exit. This is where your fox and hound will come in. Sweep the wall the cable enters from either top to bottom of bottom to top, using the intensity of the sound of the sensor to tell you how close or far away the majority of the cable is. Understand wall studs are often placed 12-16 inches apart, and that there are horizontal bars blocking progress between floors- this means it's most likely that only one cavity within your wall is used for cables to go back and forth.
This can be frustrating to decipher. There are silver linings. If this home was once cabled, and it no longer is, the path is still there. Most of the time people will cut ends off instead of pull cable entirely out- that means if you can locate it, there's a good chance you can use the cut cable to pull your new cable through. The rewards of a house successfully wired for A/V are worth the headache.
I hope this helps. Good luck!
Since many ceiling fans come with remote controls, I have seen wiring that bypasses a lightswitch and gives the fixture constant power.
You need a circuit tone kit: http://www.amazon.com/Extech-40180-Generator-Amplifier-Circuit/dp/B00023RVNO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1345294031&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=circuit+tone+tester
Essentially you run an audible tone down a line and test whether the tone is still present where you expect it to be. My guess is that you'll find that the hot line is not connected, or bypasses, the light switch in some manner.
You're going to need/want something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00023RVNO/ref=psdc_5011660011_t2_B000FTADX0
Just FYI: Ignore step 2. Cut it open liberally (more length than the connector needs) and untwist the wires, straighten them out with a rounded surface, put the colors in order, cut the wires to size.
Example of a scissors that allows you to straighten wires: http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-44300000-D-Snip-Scissors/dp/B000E5VAXM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1369254361&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=fluke+scissors
source: did mass data center cabling for 2 years.
The MicroScanner^2 (like its predecessor) is an excellent tool. However, I recommend just buying the tool itself (w/carrying case), not the entire kit.
The kit you linked includes an inductive amplifier (tone probe), numbered terminators (for identifying multiple drops simultaneously), and some miscellaneous cables. These are nice to have but definitely not worth an extra $300. The only critical component is the inductive amp, and you can find a very decent one at a much more reasonable price.
Leatherman - Charge TTI
Fluke Networks MS2-KIT
JackRapid Punchdown Tool
Fluke Networks 11293000 Pro-Tool Kit IS60 with Punch Down Tool or similiar
a set of crimpers (can't find a good set at the moment)
network ends, cable, wall plates etc.
I've been eying this.. Still so much out of my price range. However I'm hoping to make some side money and sell some old computers, etc to make enough to buy it.
And here are the best two testers I could find:
http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-MS2-KIT-MicroScanner2-Professional/dp/B000QJ6S06/ref=pd_rhf_dp_s_cp_5
http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-MT-8200-60A-IntelliTone-Pro/dp/B0001FSCVI/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_z
I have that one and the MS2-100 and they are great. They are so reliable and better than analog toners.
Just invest the money...it will last forever.
Glad to be of help, let me know how it works out once you get it installed?
> This may be optimistic thinking, but I am hoping that the Ubiquiti AP will offer strong enough coverage so that I can turn off the WiFi on the Xfinity gateway like you said. The Xfinity gateway is located near their office, which they probably would continue to want WiFi. This was the 'bridge mode' question that I had. If the signal isn't quite strong enough coming from the AP in the warehouse, I may leave the Xfinity gateway running WiFi, or I will simply have them purchase a second AP for the office area.
Personally I would recommend doing a matching Ubiquiti AP for the office area, and disable the Xfinity Wi-Fi. You don't need to enable bridge mode for that; the gateway has options to disable the 2.4 and 5GHz radios. You can either log into it yourself or call Comcast and have them do it from their end. This will ensure handoff between your Ubiquiti AP's works as intended, without having a different access point (the comcast gateway) in the mix.
>From what I've been reading on Amazon, users have installed the Ubiquiti software controller on a Raspberry Pi
I have also heard of people doing this, but I do not have experience doing this myself. I've always done local computer installs, usually on a server, in the cases where I did not have a Ubiquiti cloud key or gateway appliance.
>As stated before, the Ethernet cables are already run throughout from the previous tenants,
Apologies, I must have read over that part. In that case, I would invest in some ethernet cable testers (something like this, those are the ones I have but Amazon has cheaper options available), that way you can test the lines once they are punched down, since they were previously installed lines you never know what kind of problems could come up. Typically that's not the case with ethernet lines but you never know... and it could save you from chasing yourself in circles in the future. These testers will tell you if there is a short/open connection, or a miswire. Very handy. Even though I have punched hundreds of cat5 cable ends down manually, I always check the line with a tester before I plug it into anything.
For Tone gen, Fluke makes the gold standard. They also have a cheaper version.
You didn't mention a probe, so maybe you are looking for a cable certifier?. That's super expensive though. if you just have to test that there is continuity and not certify the cables, you can use this, or this if you want to look like a pro.
As for Screwdrivers, Wiha makes the best screw drivers, hands down. I have this set for working on electronics & laptop repair. Magnetic tool-kits are fine. This isn't the 80's anymore. There aren't too many magnetically sensitive items inside a computer anymore. especially with the advent of SSD drives.
As for a toolbox, depending the work, I prefer a tool bag or pouch.
Good luck, hope that helps. What helped for me when I started was to go to harbor freight and just get an assortment of tools. As I worked I slowly replaced the stuff I used all the time with quality gear, and didn't have to burn myself buying expensive tools and gear that I would never use.
Take a look through the action pictures:
http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-LRAT-1000-LinkRunner-Auto-Tester/dp/B007B60F6A/ref=pd_sim_sbs_indust_5?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=00PERHE0YFAAZN6JBX89
-_-
hmmm....
Then all I can recommend to you is...
It isn't made in large enough numbers to "arrive" and be stocked anywhere here, you just order from them and they ship overseas.
It's about 75% of the power of a LinkRunner AT 1000 tester (retail ~$1k - this used to be a Fluke product before they sold this sub-division off to Netscout) for about 20% of the price. 168 Euro plus 22 Euro to ship to the US, which puts it around $217-220 depending on the exchange rate.
I use one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007B60F6A?th=1&amp;psc=1
Absolutely fantastic! Couldn't live without it.
Unless you have a "toner" that will let you trace which wire is which, like this - yes, you're stuck "trying them".
Learned from my last job: Toner
http://www.amazon.com/VicTsing-Network-Ethernet-Telephone-Tracking/dp/B008G8KE90
Never hand trace a cable again.
I think that this is the right answer.
So, if you want to switch these over to network jacks rather than phone jacks:
One of these cables either goes to your telephone demarcation point or to another jack where it is daisy chained, one step closer to the demarcation point.
The other two cables are going to other phone jacks in your house. So, if you wanted to place your DSL modem and router in this room, while making the these other two cables real network jacks, it would be a quick job.
My recommendation to trace the cable is to buy one of these: http://www.amazon.com/VicTsing-Network-Ethernet-Telephone-Tracking/dp/B008G8KE90/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1393815640&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=trace+cable
doubt it. phones can plug into cat5 jacks. they're backwards compatible so to speak. you can't run internet on them, but you can run voice. it's rapidly becoming the standard to simply use cat5 jacks everywhere. can you unscrew one and take a picture? i would be willing to bet all of your wires are punched down to those 2splitters and bridged together. You could easily replace them with a couple of these and use some of these to connect to one of these and rewire the jacks in using RJ 45 T568-b standard or follow this video a quick toolkit will cost about 20-35 and since you've already got the wiring and parts should be pretty cheap. make sure that if you're no longer using the landline to pull the wire from the box to the Network interface for the phones. (unless it's DSL). may want to add a shelf underneath the media panel, although i've seen some creative people tuck a shitload of stuff into those media panels and it look quite nice. Hope this helps. Let me know if you have more questions.
Edit: you can use one of these to quickly and easily trace out if all of those wires end in that cabinet or if some of them ARE going somewhere else. If they are I would check attic areas and other panels around the house. POSSIBLY they terminate outside, but doubt it since your Network interface box is in the basement.
Absolute cheapest? Grab a buddy and some cell phones or 2-way radios. One of you monitors the activity lights on the switch, the other unplugs things one-by-one. Switch side looks to see what light went dead, and labels it. Label other end as well. Repeat until done.
Best? Get a Fluke network testing device.
Good compromise? This.
Something like this is pretty helpful in figuring this out. Unplug from the uplink, plug into the toner and wave the magic wand around until you find the cable.
http://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-VicTsing%C2%AE-Ethernet-Telephone-Tracking/dp/B008G8KE90/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1427681337&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=cable+toner
So I looked a little closer and I'm convinced it has to be the cable. I noticed the port is not lighting up on the first switch for that cable either, so no signal from switch to switch. I'm going to buy a cable tester to confirm. I found this tester on amazon. Is this all I need? https://www.amazon.com/HDE-Network-Cable-Tester-Phone/dp/B009ZXYI1U/ref=sr_1_20?keywords=ethernet+cable+tester&qid=1563130965&s=gateway&sr=8-20
So something like this?
Sounds like the tool. I have one of these ...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009ZXYI1U/ref=cm_sw_r_em_api_i_1UHvDbCG8D4EN
... and have tested 100ft with no problems using a make shift RJ45 to alligator clip pigtail.
You can try a cheap Cable tester. When I was wiring my house I was doing them directly in the wall and used these. Turns out one of the wires wasn't fully making connection when it looks like it was in there pretty tight. The tester tells you that pretty quickly.
Something like this and a couple patch cables would work fine.
Buy pass through connectors like these. - EDIT: Good up to Cat5e.
Edit
Here is a youtube video about the same type of connector. Your existing crimper should work, but you will have the extra wire to cut off. Just get a cheap pair of edge cutters.
/Edit
Use a cable tester.
You Tube videos will also help.
This is a PITA exercise. You will get better at it.
Oh, get a cable tester. $9.
Did I mention a tester?
Did I mention do not use a cable tester if the cable is hooked up to anything? Only use a tester to test Both ends of the cable at the same time.
use a cable tester
You could use a simple cable tester to see if they work, connect it to both ends of the cable and presto. You will see the lights flash on numbers 1 to 8, which means it is sending a signal through each of the cable-strands. If all lights blink, it works.
https://www.amazon.com/HDE-Network-Cable-Tester-Phone/dp/B009ZXYI1U/
For seeing what type of cable it is you have, pull it out of the wall/cable-mount/wherever or find an exposed piece of cable. The classification should be stamped on there, cat5e=< is recommended. If it has no markings on them it might be very cheap cables.
Edit: link in post above even more pro solution including cable tracking.
This is what you need to test which pair messed up. Its possible it just needs repunched at the jack or the end recrimped if there is no patch panel.
https://www.amazon.com/HDE-Network-Cable-Tester-Phone/dp/B009ZXYI1U/ref=zg_bs_7701919011_5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=9SBCR8ARD2PH8NYVSWH1
&#x200B;
This is a handy tool once its connected to make sure the connection back to the network is working. A little pricier but it has come in handy quite a few times for me.
https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-LinkSprinter-Network-Tester/dp/B00I5CKF3M/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1550147004&sr=8-2&keywords=linksprinter
I have one of these, should be able to test for the type of damage you'd be looking for https://www.amazon.com/HDE-Network-Cable-Tester-Phone/dp/B009ZXYI1U/
(This only works if you're putting new ends on the cables)
I am running some cables at my new place and am just using regular 9mm label tape and some cheap clear heat shrink tubing of appropriate size.
I put on a couple cm (about an inch) of tubing, then the boot, then the termination, push the boot into place, apply label, slide tubing into place, shrink it.
if you're running it through walls, use a tester to make sure you know which cable is which.
....This is of course for home use, I might not do this at a larger business. (I'm also subbed to /r/homelab)
I use something similar. I would switch to this if I hadn't spent money on my solution already. Bluetooth console is a must have.
https://www.get-console.com/shop/en/27-airconsole
SecureCRT offers so many features it would be impossible to list them all. Key ones being it saves your sessions into easy to manage shortcuts and can keep a log of what you do on a device. Very critical to know where you went wrong or did.
https://www.vandyke.com/products/securecrt/
Even the most basic cable tester can save you hours of headache. The more expensive ones will tell where the break is and will be more sensitive to the break. I find this is good for testing new cables that I've made. Odds are there isn't a break in the middle of the cable just a poor crimp.
https://www.amazon.com/HDE-Network-Cable-Tester-Phone/dp/B009ZXYI1U/
This book may be a little dated, but it was instrumental in my early carrier. I highly recommend a read through.
https://www.amazon.com/Network-Warrior-Everything-Need-Wasnt/dp/1449387861/
Another noob question, when CLink installed my fiber, they placed the modem/router near my box panel in the walk-in-closet. How do I go on transferring it if I wanted it in my DEN? Fiber box is located in the garage. Also the builder labeled all the CAT6 in the panel but
I really can't figure out 2 cables which says DN1ARC or DR1ARC, it's also the same cable CLink used on the LAN/WAN slot in their modem router for the internet.
Thank you so much!
It would if they are using the settings like static IP but most router use DHCP(BTW check if you're using DHCP since it may be a conflict with the IPs), but probably the matter is between your PC and the cable: Check your config, reinstall your drivers, use a tester on the cable and try with another PC in the same cable.
To be honest I was doing this as a hobby and wouldnt want to spend $50 on a tool I might only get a few uses out of. I found one on Amazon for $10. Would it be worth it for my needs?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009ZXYI1U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Upg.AbF5HRKGB
In a perfect world, all the jacks are labeled. That not being the case, most likely all the cables terminate in the same location, idea being you'd place your network switch there and plug all the cables into it.
Failing either of above, you can always buy a CAT5/LAN cable tester - there are some very cheap basic testers on Amazon now. It'll come, usually, with a main handheld unit and a little probe. Plug probe into one jack, the main handheld into suspected other end, and handheld will tell you if probe is on the other end or not. A decent tester will also give you a cable health report, telling you if there are breaks in the cable, if it's mis-terminated etc.
Here's an example of a budget tester you could use:
http://www.amazon.com/SC8108-Network-Length-Cable-Tester/dp/B00A20KO18?ie=UTF8&amp;keywords=CAT5%20tester&amp;qid=1465411262&amp;ref_=sr_1_4&amp;sr=8-4
Im not sure about the HDMI over cat5/5e/6, but I just was redoing my cat5e wiring layout to upgrade to gigabyte ethernet last week...Im well rehearsed in that. Id consider a different signal tester...I liked this one since it gave me length information too. I actually just reviewed one pretty thoughly tonight and included troubleshooting pictures:
5E 6E SC8108 CAT5 RJ45 Network LAN Length Cable Tester Meter GRAY D... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A20KO18/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_vFQhzbW6QQ5YA
Something like this ?
https://www.amazon.com/SC8108-Network-Length-Cable-Tester/dp/B00A20KO18
Even cheaper, I used one of these 'made in China' deals https://www.amazon.com/DBPOWER-TD0091-Sc-8108-Network-Multifunction/dp/B00A20KO18/ . There's probably a ton of knock offs. Used it for about a year and it seems accurate enough.
buy one of these
http://www.amazon.com/Extech-TG20-Wire-Tracer-Generator/dp/B00APD16D2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463422577&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=tone+generator+and+probe+kit
It's how they made the lightsaber sound, and is best bzzzzz
I bought a tone generator and learned how to use it by watching youtube videos. worth very penny.
Extech TG20 Wire Tracer and Tone Generator https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00APD16D2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_tswiDbBG6KJZY
>A continuity tester or tone generator with alligator clips will allow you to clip the leads on the bare cable and then take the wand and touch it to the cable, it will start screaming when the wand is touching the right cable.
Like this?
Here's a cheap one :
amazon
So the "data" portion of the MDX88300 is probably because of the satellite and probably phones. I am guessing you can tie it in with a security system? But it will be a no-go for internet.
Those Cat5 cables, however, should still work fine. You would just have to cap the ends with a standard RJ45 connector cap, and make sure it is wired correctly at the jack in the room. Then you can just plug it directly to your router at this point, IF you're going to place your router in that closet/room.
Or you can get a real patch panel and wire them directly into that, but you will need a punch tool for that. I only recommend that if you need to wire like 10+ computers to a network.
As far as the tone tester goes, I use this one for work. It's probably Chinese made and might break in a year, but it was cheap and I tested it....it works. You plug the little transmitter into the Ethernet port in the room, flip the switch to "Tone". Then go to your server closest, turn the wand on, and touch each cable until you hear a beep from the wand. That indicates which cable runs to that room. Then you cap it with the RJ45 connector, Mark it (with tape and sharpie), and move on to the next room.
You can get a "pinout" tester, that will just tell you if all 4 pairs are in the right order, and are able to send a signal all the way down the cable (https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-RJ-11-Modular-Tester-108138/dp/B009GUNIX6)
or you can get something a little more serious, that measures....well...everything (https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-LRAT-2000-LinkRunner-Ethernet/dp/B007B60FGU)
https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-VDV501-823-Scout-Tester/dp/B00M2DDO0Q
Quality punch, crimper, jack heads, label maker, heavy duty scissors for misc (incl stripping cables)
Variety of screwdrivers, metal cheap nail file (i was sans tools and actually works better for reseating wires in keystone jacks)
https://www.amazon.com/Telephone-Remotes-Klein-Tools-VDV501-823/dp/B00M2DDO0Q
Ive worked for 20yrs without needing one, but there were a few instances having one would be nice and they have dropped in price. However like most things you never need it until the one time you dont bring it ;)
And i have a cheap toner - which after close to 20yrs never having one ive got quick and easy methods to do what i need to do without one, but after lots of hostile takeovers at body shops having one did come in handy once or twice. Battery is always dead in the toner when you need it and never a 9v handy at 3am. Lol!!
I would get a decent tester. Every tech should have one in their bag. I stumbled across this and it should be decent for the price. The only thing is you would need a toner wand to pick up the tone signals. If you are capable of doing it yourself, do it. Schedule down time, put a patch panel in, do it right. If you are not comfortable, get a contractor in and have them do it. Check their references and hope for the best!
That's a toner & probe. Yes, fluke has that for 8X more new.
https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-IntelliTone-Toner-MT-8200-60-KIT/dp/B00N2S6RPY/
That isn't fluke's main deal though. They test signal integrity and where that drops off via their DSX network analyzer($15,000). The toner and probe is fairly basic.
The tool you picked should be fine for doing home cable routing. Don't need high end for that.
I use this - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N2S6RPY/ref=twister_B0732VPHMG?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Fluke's Intellitone
It's expensive, but you'll only buy it once.
The advantage of using Ubiquiti stuff is the amount of info available: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=ubiquiti+nanostation+ptp
PtP means Point-to-point, which is the kind of link you want to do. You will need some outdoor ethernet cable and a crimp tool + connectors. A simple cable tester would be useful too to make sure the cable is OK.
Also, Ubiquiti uses passive PoE. Plug your injector correctly or it will fry your computer's network card!
Don't hesitate to contact me if you have any more questions!
get yourself a cheap cable tester, something like this.
http://www.amazon.com/Tonor-RJ45-Network-Cable-Tester/dp/B00OUFX38W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1462121743&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=cat5+cable+tester
Check that all 8 wires are connected correctly.
Could always pick up a cheap line tester from amazon.
The tester also shows if a signal is weak. Every LED light up brightly.
The tester is this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Tonor-RJ45-Network-Cable-Tester/dp/B00OUFX38W
If the lines are terminated you can use one of these.
Use a toner/cable-tester to see how the wires are connected from the room to the patch panel. Something really cheap like this will work.
I'm pretty sure that's how VOIP works.
Okay but seriously, you can technically daisy chain phone lines, so one of those lines is providing service to another phone jack. It sounds like your guess is probably correct. If you don't need service in the basement then disconnect it. Im not sure if it's worth it to you, but one of these would be useful: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00OUFX38W/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1469014796&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=cable+tester&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51Bu0GxKXML&amp;ref=plSrch
Check your wiring with something like... http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00OUFX38W/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1462143785&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=cat+5+cable+tester
Using one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OUFX38W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
RJ45 tester
wall plate mounting bracket
keystone wall plate
keystone f/f jack
CAT6 ends
The setup from your diagram should work.
Edit: the wall plate has various options for the number of jacks.
What he's saying is that even after you make the cable, you have no way of knowing if it meets the Cat6 spec without an expensive cable qualifier. That's how the IT guys make and verify Cat6 cable.
If you need the cable to be Cat6, either buy pre-terminated cable or buy a cable qualification tester.
you can, but you're going to need a much better toner than that. Something more like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-CIQ-KIT-CableIQ-Generator/dp/B00Q6Y0LIA/ref=sr_1_7?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1526909090&amp;sr=1-7&amp;keywords=fluke+network+tester
Ended up researching into a bag and eventually found one I think will work well.
I will link to everything I've found on amazon. I have found others on our distributors website. Hopefully this will help others put together something as well!
Bag
SATA Adapter
Toolkit
Toner/Fox and Hound
Small LED Flashlight
Velcro Wire Ties - Zip ties are awful
Network Kit
External HDD
Analog Phone - For testing Fax Lines mainly
There's more, such as cables and things, but everyone should be OK with figuring that out for yourselves. Total the kit (with cables and stuff included) is only about $370.91 per technician.
Hope this helps someone!
A cable tester would work...a toner might be better though, and certainly cheaper.
Cable tester, ELEGIANT XQ-350 Wire Tester Telephone Phone RJ45 RJ11 Wire Tracker Ethernet LAN Line Finder [Upgraded Version] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015EFE3XA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_jgHFzb2Y1PF6N
I had a similar situation in the house we moved into several years ago. Original owners had wiring for whole-home audio done before drywall was on. They never got around to installing anything else.
Only clue was - in each room pre-wired for speakers - there was a blank wall plate. The speaker wires ran behind it. This is where the wall volume controls were intended to go.
I was able to locate the wires behind the drywall using a "Tone and Probe kit" similar to this one on Amazon:
Tone and Probe Kit
Basically, you hook up a small battery powered device to the exposed wires and it send a signal down that line. Then you sweep the receiver along the wall/ceiling until it detects the signal.
Can be a bit frustrating if you have no idea where to look, as you need to be very close to the wire for the receiver to hear anything.
I use this cheapo. It has the loudest tone generator I have come across. As long as there is a good connection to the toner it can read through double layer sheetrock.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015EFE3XA/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apap_MXVIaESDsmVIE
You can get a decent cable tester for under $20. Here's what I have in my tool bag: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015EFE3XA
Or you can plug a laptop into one end and the router on the other and see what works if you want to do it for free.
Yes, I did all the terminations myself. I am 100% completely certain they are all A-style terminations.
I used this to test.
Worst case scenario, those are the ONLY cables that exist (low voltage wise). If you’d like, you can use this cable toner to confirm if that Ethernet cable is the other end of that wall plate jack.
If you’re unable to find any proof of previous cabling elsewhere, I’d recommend to just do it right and run the cables yourself. I’d choose a central place other than the attic.
RJ-45 Cable Tester:
https://www.amazon.com/ELEGIANT-Multifunction-Collation-Telephone-Continuity/dp/B01HCQSHNG/
It would much faster to troubleshoot bad ports than installing new cable runs...
With no controller, you're flat out not going to be able to get them to light up an SSID. As I see it, you've got two basic ways to find the little buggers.
The first is to bring up a controller. The 2332 was a rebranded Trapeze AP, which was then bought up by Juniper. One of their last acts before letting the product line die was to release a virtual controller which, if I recall correctly, had a built in license for 4 APs. You can find the software by going to support.juniper.net and searching for "JunosV Wireless LAN Controller". Once you bring it up, you'll have an SSID up you can go hunt down.
The alternative way, if you don't feel like resurrecting all that infrastructure, is to go analog. More specifically, get yourself a toner, like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/ELEGIANT-Multifunction-Collation-Telephone-Continuity/dp/B01HCQSHNG
You'll need to unplug the cable from the switch port and plug it into the signal generator unit. From there, it will greatly facilitate physically tracing the cable through bundles, letting you check that you still have the right one at intermediate points without having to eyeball it or rely on someone tugging at the other end.
Neither way ends up being trivial, but if you don't have any good maps to fall back on, they're your best bets.
This Will help you trace it. It sends a tone over the line and you can use the probe to follow it. Works well for tracing power lines as well.(Turn em off!)
>what is the best way to determine what wiring protocol was used at the wall plates?
Pop them out and take a look. Usually, they are labelled which standard the wiring diagram is for. It may just say "A" and/or "B."
>For the cable input, is there a way to tell which end is live or is it trial and error?
Yes, but for a project this small trial and error is probably easiest. In larger instances, you can use a toner: https://smile.amazon.com/ELEGIANT-Multifunction-Collation-Telephone-Continuity/dp/B01HCQSHNG/
>Any other suggestions? I am new to this
At least buy a cheap cable tester! I have this one, works fine: https://smile.amazon.com/Zoostliss-Network-Cable-Tester-Networking/dp/B06XZYXN63/ You can waste SOOOO much time checking things just to realize you had a bad crimp or punch or miswired something. That device will let you know of any continuity/wiring issues.
I mean, it's certainly possible that whoever ran those was using network cable to run audio. Each RJ11 (phone connector) has a pair of wires, and theoretically each pair could be +/- in an audio cable. You'd need a breakout at each end to wire it up to your receiver.
I'm racking my brain trying to remember if there were any integrated systems that used RJ11 modular connectors for the speaker / receiver interface, and I swear that I've seen it before, but my google-fu is failing me and I can't find it.
Personally, I wouldn't do it this way for amplified signals, too much possibility for cross-talk and too small a wire gauge. But maybe it would work for speakers that have their own internal amps?
Do you have a tone generator? If so, hook it up and see if the tone comes out of the speakers. Then you're guaranteed that they connect to the overheads and are there to carry an amplified signal...
If you don't know what I'm talking about, this is a good example, you'd plug in each jack to the emitter box, start a tone going, and you'll hear it through the speaker if they're connected and passive.
Edit - adding an afterthought:
Ultimately, you're mixing tech here. Best method might be to use those network cables as the fish lines to pull proper speaker cables. You could hack something together to convert the phone lines to patch into a normal amp (provided the surrounds are passive), either with an RJ11 patch panel or just cutting off the connectors and using the colored line as + and the white as - per speaker.
If you could pull a surround out of the ceiling and take a picture of how it's wired up and the brand or model of the speaker, I could tell you more about how it might have once been.
Why worry about labels for a home install? They always go missing during construction. This from Amazon is cheap and a great back up when lables fail.
You can buy a network testing kit like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HCQSHNG and track down where it's coming from/where it's going to.
Test the cable.
https://www.amazon.com/Zoostliss-Network-Cable-Tester-Networking/dp/B06XZYXN63/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=cable+tester&amp;qid=1564446411&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-9
Also might be a good idea to replace that router in the middle with an unmanaged switch.
https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Splitter-Optimization-Unmanaged-TL-SG105/dp/B00A128S24/ref=sr_1_4?crid=27LCEVX1D3MKD&amp;keywords=unmanaged+switch&amp;qid=1564446575&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=unmanaged+s%2Caps%2C148&amp;sr=8-4
Modem -> Unmanaged Switch
Unmanaged switch -> Router A
Unmanaged switch -> Router B
Should be no issue with each of your routers pulling their own public IP. Two separate networks.
I'm guessing that line either has a bad punchdown, or the wire is damaged. When you say you did a wire test I'm not sure what you mean by that. You might want to pick up something like this
Zoostliss Network Cable Tester RJ45 RJ11 RJ12 UTP LAN Cable Tester Networking Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XZYXN63/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_lfFxDb0WRMX94
It will tell you which part of the cable is bad.
Granted it's more expense than you expected, but something like this is pretty cheap: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XZYXN63/ Or probably even cheaper on ebay. They're all basically the same. The circuitry is so simple that it's hard for it to go wrong.
Alternatively, if you're that way inclined, you could Macgyver something, all you're doing is checking each wire for continuity at the RJ45 connectors.
I’d honestly invest in a wire tester. you can get them at local bit box retailers. you attach it to the jack and then one to the opposite end of the line and itll tell you which twisted pair is as fault.
Zoostliss Network Cable Tester RJ45 RJ11 RJ12 UTP LAN Cable Tester Networking Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XZYXN63/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_skE6BbN7QDDT3
You could use a punchdown tool to push in each of the wires at the connections to make sure they all have good contact. Then use a tester like, this or this, to make sure all wires test out. I like the latter one, as it is nicer and it also can test coax cables.
It is hard to tell if that is Ethernet or phone from the photo, if it has 8 wires going into the back then it's Ethernet.
I would suggest one of these to figure out what goes where.
heres the chinese-version of the tool a pro would use:
https://www.amazon.com/Tracker-Network-Ethernet-Collation-Telephone/dp/B06Y5K1W2B/
If you have ports around your house, I would start by buying a cable tracer and tester kit like this.
You appear to have an OnQ 1x12 telecom system in place in that cabinet which is for phones only and an OnQ network interface panel. So the OnQ 1x12 part isn't useful for you, but you could use the OnQ network interface part and a switch to make this work. You will need a 110 punch down tool will have to do some rewiring though.
Edit: changed comment after noticing it was an OnQ system.
I picked this one up -- should work okay yea?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071K8L32H/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1
You need a cable toner. This one is quite cheap but seems to have good reviews. If you make a habit of pulling cable, I'd invest in a better one.
A tester is also a good tool, but you have to pay quite a bit to get something better than a continuity tester--and a continuity tester doesn't tell you all that much.
if you have a rental made since 1999, you probably have cat5 running in the walls. check your phone jacks, if it's a beige/pink color with two pair (4 leads) it's standard phone line, if it's 8 untwisted leads, it's cat3, if it's 4 pairs, 8 leads twisted, it's network grade. Find where they terminate in the house.
protip: if you have a jack near your modem, you can bridge the two at the mpoe using telecom buttons or coupling them using a cat5/6 coupler and rj45 ends.
they should be labelled, if not, then you'll need a toner to tone out the cables.
https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-IntelliTone-Toner-MT-8200-60-KIT/dp/B0749RXGB4
or
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=15962
or
https://www.pimfg.com/product-detail/PITS-TP-1
https://www.pimfg.com/product-detail/PI-CP-C5E-2
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=5384
or
https://www.pimfg.com/product-detail/KYE-6-RT-WHITE
https://www.pimfg.com/product-detail/P-KS-1-WHITE
or
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=6725
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-Punch-down-Multi-Bit-Screwdriver-VDV001-081/203275492 (I prefer these as I get more accurate results when punching down)
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-Electrician-s-Scissors-with-Stripping-Notches-21007/100038995 (superior to any cabling strippers in any kits)
Cable toner and probe. Don't go cheap, a good Fluke tester is ~200US and they work great.
https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-Intellitone/dp/B00N2S6RPY?th=1
The cheap ones may work on the shorter runs, but the Fluke always works and the one I linked has a built in patch cable tester.
Yeah it sounds like there is a wiring problem. I would recommend getting an inexpensive cable tester. You can then verify that all connectors are terminated correctly.
I bought this one a while ago when I did wire tech work professionally. It works really well and also allows you to tone out the cable. You plug in the block side and at it to either tone out test depending on your need. Than use the wand to listen for the sound or plug in the cable and test.
Wire Tracker, ELEGIANT RJ11 RJ45 Cable Tester Line Finder Multifunction Wire Tracker Toner Ethernet LAN Network Cable Tester for Network Cable Collation, Telephone Line Tester, Continuity Checking https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HCQSHNG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XzQyDb4Q69CQN
On an unmanaged switch it usually doesn't matter but make sure the switch support auto crossover. Usually if it is going to matter one port on the switch will be labelled 'uplink'.
To summarize: you can keep your router where it is if it's able to get link through that coax port. Make sure that Ethernet jack terminates to an uplinked switchport in your closet (TP Link is one of many decent and inexpensive gig switch brands. POE might be a useful feature to consider in a switch if you plan on adding wifi APs or IP phones later.
Also, if the Jack's are not well numbered or indicated, one of these ~$10 devices can prove to be very useful:
<https://www.amazon.com/Zoostliss-Network-Cable-Tester-Networking/dp/B06XZYXN63/&gt;
Hope that helps
these are best in the biz.
you do not need anything near this good. But if you wanna geek out....
https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-IntelliTone-Toner-MT-8200-60-KIT/dp/B0749RXGB4/ref=sr_1_1?s=office-products&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1509865082&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=fluke+digital+toner
https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-26000900-Pro3000-Generator/dp/B000FTADX0/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1509865114&amp;sr=1-1-catcorr&amp;keywords=fluke+toner
$9 and it works.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OUFX38W/ref=psdc_7701919011_t1_B0000AZK08