Best network i/o port cards according to redditors

We found 2,688 Reddit comments discussing the best network i/o port cards. We ranked the 380 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Subcategories:

Internal USB port cards
Internal firewire port cards
Computer internal SCSI port cards
Parallel port cards
RAID controllers
Serial port cards

Top Reddit comments about Network I/O Port Cards:

u/edgan · 81 pointsr/DataHoarder

Raw storage:

u/charliefrench2oo8 · 64 pointsr/OculusQuest

Hey all, I just wanted to report something.


I've been testing the assortment of cables I had around, and extensions.


Using this cable, this extension, and this PCIe Card I was able to get a 32 foot + 10 foot setup running fine. I tested it without the extension and could not see a difference in latency.
It does require active power.


Your results may vary, but I figured i'd share my test.

u/Romthirty · 63 pointsr/oculus

UPDATE:

So after a few hours of testing, the next issue I started to run into was a lot of "poor tracking" issues when connecting to the Inateck.

I started to remove factor by factor trying different cables, different balances (2 sensors on the intateck, 1 and rift on mobo) and so on... still kept getting "poor tracking" after a few minutes. At one point, it got really bad and every single sensor and rift said poor tracking, I was completely lost.

​

Finally I started to strip my testing even more and started to remove any extension cables (CableMatters 3.0) just to be sure those weren't causing issues. I also started to just run 1 sensor on the Inateck and things started to stabilize a bit. Then I added 2... I would get "poor tracking" but on rare occasions. This is still unacceptable.

​

Ultimately, after swapping cables and everything here and there, I finally stabilized by having 2 sensors on the Inateck as 3.0, The rift on my mobo as 3.0 and the last sensor as 2.0. I really think the Inateck isn't capable of more than 1 solid sensor - 2 sensors and it starts to dip here and there. My thoughts on why Oculus recommends this card AND why they now sell the additional sensors with a 2.0 extension cable is to keep cost down and have you running at least at the minimum specs to get up and running.

​

My thoughts after this testing is that if you want to run VR at it's full potential, we need to spend the extra money and get proper USB 3.0 cards with at least 4 individual usb controllers like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Express-SuperSpeed-Dedicated-Channels/dp/B00HJZEA2S/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549365944&sr=8-3&keywords=startech.com+4+port+pci+express+pcie+superspeed+usb+3.0

​

I think I may have to just return the Inatek and cough up the difference to get this proper card.

​

Will do further testing tomorrow and will update you guys if I render any new results.

UPDATE 2:
So after about a week or so of testing with the inateck, yes what I stated in the original post is true, sensors on 3.0 use less CPU power but that card simply doesn't seem strong enough for even 2 sensors. I would keep getting poor tracking warnings. I did see a huge improvement on stability when a user suggested putting one sensor in port 1 and the other on port 4. For some reason this worked well. Something about them being further apart that it made the USB traffic not as choked up, but none the less, I'd still occasionally get the poor tracking warnings.

Ultimately after troubleshooting some more and more, the only way to get no warnings was to go back to all sensors on 2.0; but this also meant going back to 17-20% CPU usage...

Because of this, I'm now returning the card and getting the 4 bus StarTech. Its $80 and has individual buses for each port. I will report back when I've tested with this.

For those of you looking to get the StarTech, keep in mind Amazon has different versions for different prices that look identical. Make sure you select the 4 bus version ($80). There is a cheaper 2 bus version that some have said is "enough", but at this point, why bother getting just enough. This new USB adapter will be useful on future PC builds too so it's an investment anyway.

u/OculusSupport · 23 pointsr/oculus

I'm really sorry about that. Poor tracking can happen for a few reasons: exceeding bandwidth on your system, incompatible USB ports, of even a non-functional sensor, among other things. Since you seem to have tried the sensors by themselves, I would guess that you are either exceeding the bandwidth, or that your USB 2.0 ports are somehow incompatible. Your best bet is to purchase this add-on card (must be this exact one): https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM I'd also continue to speak with us on the support ticket in case there is some software component that can be resolved, such as updating USB drivers or disabling a conflicting application. Hope that helps.

u/grepnork · 22 pointsr/apple

I wrote this for another thread on the same subject a while back. The main bottleneck/expense is moving from single processor to dual processor. If I had it to do over (and hadn't come across a 2009 model at a bargain price) I'd get the 2010 chassis. The 2009 model uses a very odd lidless processor design which is unique to that year and complicates upgrading. The 2010's also have faster RAM which means you won't have to buy new RAM to upgrade the processor.

Upgrades:-

  • Highpoint Technologies Rocket 640L for SATA 6Gb/ps combined with any SATA SSD.

  • For true speed OWC offer a range of M2 SSD PCIE cards, although these are expensive they will give you current generation SSD speeds. There are plenty of cheap M2 SATA PCIE cards available and the drives themselves are reasonably priced, but many unfortunately can't be used as boot drives in the Mac (NVME issues). MacProSSDOptions offers a list of ones that work.

  • Any recent 9xx and above nVidia card will work with nVidia's web drivers (bloody hard to find, search the Hackintosh sites for current links and ALWAYS upgrade the drivers before you upgrade the OS). I have GTX 970 which drives three monitors happily and offers HDMI out. What you won't get with the non-mac nVidia cards is the grey boot screen, you need a Mac card for that hence the advice I offer about the EFI cards later on. I've run twin 9800 GTX's, an 8800 GT and a GTX 970 in my 2009 model without issues - you just need to make sure the card you buy has 6 pin power connectors on the card itself and you'll need a set of 6 pin PCiE power connectors for the Mac Pro Backplane.

  • If you can find an upgraded processor board and processor for reasonable money a hacked firmware upgrade for the 4,1 to the 5,1 is available, it's a really simple upgrade to perform. This also allows you to use faster 1333 MHz RAM.

  • Inateck Superspeed 4 Ports PCI-E to USB 3.0 Expansion Card for rear facing USB 3.0.

  • An Apple BCM94360CD card and adapter will provide Bluetooth 4 LE, and 802.11 ac connectivity (which provide continuity and handoff).

    Advice:-

  • Always keep a Mac EFI graphics card in the machine or handy, I have one of the old GT120's, inevitably when the OS upgrades you'll forget to upgrade the Nvidia web drivers first and that renders the mac useless without an EFI card available.

  • There is plenty of space in the CD drive enclosure for SSDs and other upgrades - they're much more knowledgeable about third party parts and driver issues than the Mac crowd who generally don't deal with these things too much. I've frequently found information there on PCiE SSDs, video drivers, even sound drivers, that I couldn't get help for elsewhere.

  • The dual core 2009 series is the best one of the 2009 models to own, the processors can be upgraded to the point where it comes near the 2013 Mac Pro Geekbench score. If you don't have a dual processor board from the get go then the upgrade to one is very expensive indeed and the parts are hard to find.

  • The 2.66 Ghz 4,1 uses lidless processors (as do all of the other 2009 models) which are impossible to find upgrades for. You will have to convert the board or do the riskiest upgrade of your life in order to use the better processors. Information on the board conversion is hard to find (I'm looking if anyone out there has it!).

  • Lots of helpful information is available at TonyMacx86 and other Hackintosh forums. In my experience they are more knowledgeable about third party hardware and driver issues than the Mac crowd - I had major sound driver issues with Mavericks and they were the only people with a solution.

  • If you can find a 5,1 (2010 tower) at a price you can afford go for that one as it has standard heat shielded processors rather than the lidless version in the 2.66Ghz 4,1 - always check the serial number before you buy as many 5,1 machines are really 4,1's with the hacked firmware.
u/theplankton · 22 pointsr/Vive

I dont think its a USB3 issue, I think it an incompatible USB chipset issue. I had nothing but problems at first, USB3 wouldnt work at all, USB2 worked better but still major issues. I then installed the USB3 PCIe card recommended by valve and ALL issues were solved. I have no problems now at all.

edit: this is the card i got http://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM

u/glurtz · 21 pointsr/oculus

For the 2 sensors on the wall above the computer I'm using 10ft USB 3.0 extension cables. For the 3rd camera I'm using a 16.4ft USB 2.0 extension cable, as well as a 6ft USB 3.0 extension cable because the 2.0 cable wasn't long enough. I have all 3 cameras plugged into the same USB controller on the motherboard. Since I'm using a 2.0 extension cable, the 3rd camera is running via USB 2.0.

I'm using a 10ft HDMI extension cable and a 10ft USB 3.0 cable for the headset. The extension cables are electrical taped together and secured to my desk using velcro straps. I have the headset USB plugged into a PCI-E USB card I bought because I was running out of USB ports.

It's worth noting that for the first couple of days, I was getting occasional errors where the it said the headset was disconnected and I would have to unplug the USB and plug it back in. Since moving the headset to the USB on the PCI-E card (off the same controller as the sensors) I have not had this issue or any other issues to speak of.

6ft 3.0 Extension
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CFL6ARO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

16.4ft 2.0 Extension
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KY9M51O/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

10ft 3.0 Extension
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB PCI-E Expansion Card
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

10ft HDMI Extension
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004C4SECG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/kami77 · 19 pointsr/oculus

More info here, including a working PCI-E card:

https://www.reddit.com/r/oculus/comments/3zrtgs/psa_your_usb_30_ports_may_not_be_compatible_with/

Basically it looks like Intel and Fresco controllers are good. That throws a lot of motherboards more than a couple years old out of contention.

Amazon links for your convenience:

u/diminutive_lebowski · 19 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Cybereality, from the Oculus support forums, has recommended this card: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPIMJEW

u/wagon153 · 17 pointsr/buildapc

How does this look? Board checks all the requirements, and the CPU comes in at a very low 25w TDP, which is great for a system that will be running 24/7. In addition, the board comes with a PCI-E slot, so if you need more SATA ports than the 4 it comes with, you can buy one of these.



PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD 5350 2.05Ghz Quad-Core Processor | $34.99 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | ASRock AM1B-ITX Mini ITX AM1 Motherboard | $34.99 @ Micro Center
Memory | Crucial 4GB (1 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $12.99 @ SuperBiiz
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $82.97
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-06-28 00:01 EDT-0400 |

u/LiL_BrOwNiE247 · 16 pointsr/buildapc
u/guruguys · 15 pointsr/oculus

While technically correct for the most part, this comment seems to be exaggerating things a bit. You only need three USB ports for Rift out of the box, a fourth port only if you buy a third optional sensor. You don't need a usb2.0 at all, you can run headset and two sensors on usb 3.0 fine and if you buy a forth sensor it will automatically downgrade it to a usb2.0 with the included extension cable it comes with.A $20 pci usb card can be purchased if there are any USB issues at all. Stating HDMI"1.3" as if it would be any different than any HDMI that would ship on a compatible graphics card is also a bit intimidating to those who would think '1.3' is something different. If your newer card happens to only have display-port (rare), or you are already using HDMI for your monitor and you don't have a second HDMI out, you can use an adapter to go displayport to hdmi to either the monitor or Rift.

For most people its only the $160+ graphics card that is the main upgrade needed.

​

​

u/WthLee · 14 pointsr/Vive

fixed this on mine just by reducing the camera bandwith to the second or third lowest notch. the built in usb hub in the headset is trying to push data from 2 controllers, and the video of the camera to the computer, and since a large percentage of usb controllers on motherboards arent really providing the needed overall bandwidth, despite being usb 3, you get tracking issues. also, usb 2 provides better performance, you should switch to that if you are using usb 3. the chipsets with non optimal performance were already ID´d by oculus, they offered a link to amazon to a pci express usb3 controller which works most likely with the full camera bandwidth on the vive.

crappy chipsets:

Texas Instruments USB 3.0 xHCI

Etron USB 3.0 Extensible Host Controller

VIA USB 3.0 eXtensible Host Controller - 1.0 (Microsoft)

ASMedia USB 3.0 eXtensible Host Controller

ASMedia XHCI Controller

Renesas USB 3.0 eXtensible-Hostcontroller

proposed fix:

http://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-E-Expansion/dp/B00FPIMICA

http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00PAFDW3M

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Inateck-Express-Connector-Controller-Internal/dp/B00FPIMJEW

u/RnRpax · 14 pointsr/oculus

Tons of threads like this, so take some time to browse this sub. Also a lot of good info in this sub's wiki In either case here's my quick and dirty off the top of my head in no particular order/level of detail, also some things are just my subjective opinion:

  • Take the time to get the HMD situated comfortably on your head. Shouldn't be pressed against your face so hard that it leaves an impression. Back part should be cupping lower back part of your head.
  • Configure your IPD as best you can.
  • If you start to feel motion sick or have a headache / eye strain DON'T push through it. Stop and take as long a break as necessary to get back to normal. You may have to start your VR journey in smaller doses until you (hopefully) build up a tolerance.
  • Since you've never experienced it, don't be put off by the resolution of the Rift. Things like the screendoor effect and god rays you start to lose awareness of the more you use it (especially if you really get immersed in a game).
  • You'll have 2 sensors with your current bundle. I don't know the size of your room but I would suggest placing them in opposite corners (diagonally) of your playspace. Preferably high up and angled down towards you. Read Oculus blog on the matter
  • Tied to the above, some people do just fine with 2 sensors (what you'll have out of the box) for 360/roomscale tracking. I went this route for some time and felt it was just fine (not perfect though). Try it out and if you feel you need more stable tracking, look into buying a 3rd sensor.
  • Hopefully you have no USB bandwidth issues, but if you do, take the time to read through the Oculus blog 1 and Oculus blog 2 posts on the matter. I am one of the unfortunate folks who had USB bandwidth issues on mutiple motherboards and this was, to me, the shittiest aspect of the Rift experience. Once I worked through it (read, bought this card) I was good.
  • You've got several free games alongside the ones you mentioned. Take the time to experience them all. In addition I recommend Super Hot, Budget Cuts demo (Steam), Rec Room (social/multiplayer).

    Everyone's experience varies. If its smooth sailing for you then awesome. If you run into problems, don't stress and take the time to search on this sub for answers. VR is amazing, hope you enjoy it.
u/nalex66 · 12 pointsr/oculus

Both of those cards have only a single USB controller. If you have no USB3 ports, you need a card with more controllers to handle the bandwidth of the Rift + sensors. This card is a little more expensive, but each USB3 port has its own controller, giving you 4 times the bandwidth.

u/NiBuch · 12 pointsr/DataHoarder

Depends on your use case. If you're just looking to add SATA ports, aren't planning anything crazy, and don't want to shell out extra for something enterprise-grade, they should work fine.

I have a similar one in my NAS, along with a free 2-port card that came bundled with it. They work pretty well, and I haven't had any issues with either.

u/mx0mx · 11 pointsr/pcmasterrace

You could always buy a PCIe card for the headers

u/ruinedxistenz · 11 pointsr/oculus

Rift S is a nice pickup and the natural progression looking to move up from PSVR. Your PC specs are great for VR, and it will be a massive improvement from PSVR in all areas.


You may want to consider a RiftS-dedicated pci-e usb3 card for your PC to ensure optimal bandwidth and power is delivered to the Rift S such as below; this will improve performance and reliability. Most motherboard chipsets are not up to the task in this regard, so it's a great $20 investment many overlook. The one linked is known to be one of the best performers for Rift S. Note if you do get this don't install the inateck drivers, just use the Microsoft ones that auto load after installation: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OVPxDbTW1ZJ2E

u/Zaga932 · 11 pointsr/virtualreality

Rift CV1 > OG Vive in:

Angular resolution - ~20% higher

Optical clarity (Vive only clear when looking straight forward; Rift clear almost edge-to-edge)

Ergonomics (improved with $100 Deluxe Audio Strap; Vive still almost twice as front-heavy)

Audio (fixed by DAS)

Controllers

Software platform (Home, Dash, ASW 2.0 - all more feature rich & polished than SteamVR-equivalents)

Game support (Oculus natively, SteamVR supported, SteamVR games run like native Oculus with OpenComposite; Vive has SteamVR natively, can access Oculus games via ReVive)

Performance (Vive renders at 3024x1680 @ 90Hz; Rift at 2688x1600@90 - 18% heavier GPU load per frame on a Vive)

A Vive is not an upgrade from a CV1. It's the complete opposite. It has a bit larger FOV (110x113 degrees; Rift 94x93) & an easier room scale setup (2 base stations need to be securely mounted to sturdy surface capable of absorbing vibrations, require 2 power outlets; for roomscale Rift needs 3 sensors @ 2x USB 3.0, 1x USB 2.0 + headset's USB 3.0; USB clusterfuck solvable by $23 PCIe USB expansion card (UK, Canada, Germany, France) - it loses in just about everything else.

That $200 Vive + $100 DAS is five times more expensive than the $60 Rift, 2,5x more expensive if you add a $60 sensor (which you can get here). If you already have the CV1, switching would be lunacy.

u/spvcegoat0 · 10 pointsr/oculus

Well, if you have a free PCI-E port on your motherboard an Inateck 3.0 USB card will do the trick.


Here is the one I use: https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM

u/IceBreak · 10 pointsr/PS3

It was facetiousness. You can find an HDMI cable for under $2. I was trying to say that Sony was cutting ridiculous corners. Here is a $2 4-port USB 2.0 card.

u/noorbeast · 10 pointsr/oculus

Both the Rift and Vive have their pros and cons, I have both and here is my cut and paste summary of just some of the comparative factors people may consider, as the topic has already been done to death:

The standard 2 forward facing camera Touch tracking has some FOV and distance related Touch occlusion, so a 3rd camera really is recommended for genuine roomscale.

The official Oculus experimental guide for 2 camera 360 degree tracking is here: https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/t39.2365-6/15397552_232732683816172_4121045365602385920_n.pdf

The recommended Oculus play area for diagonally opposed 360 tracking use is only 1.5M x 1.5M, with the cameras 2M apart.

To put that into some comparative context HTC recommends 2M x 1.5M as the minimum for the Vive 2 base station room-scale setup, with 3.55M x 3.55M being the recommended. People such as myself have tested Lighthouse out to nearly 10M, though that is pushing the envelope given how Lighthouse operates, see here for details: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=75ZytcYANTA

The standard Rift HMD cable length is also a limiting factor for large roomscale use. By comparison my Vive tracked volume is 8Mx4M and the included HMD cable lets you take advantage of that space with a computer located halfway down the long side.

Some are reporting that hardware/cable issues can affect Touch tracking: https://www.reddit.com/r/oculus/comments/5hbxxg/anyone_having_controller_warpingtracking_loss/db06gvm/

It took me a lot of fiddling to work out which USB ports gave the best results with my Rift, and still be able to use all the peripherals that go with my 3DOf compact motion simulator. I have yet to resolve all my Rift USB issues, with some visual jumps and persistent disconnects after a random period of time. A new Inateck card, as recommended by Oculus, is on its way (note some are still reporting issues, even with the recommended card): https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM

Here is a list of additional hardware and cables that may been needed for full Oculus roomscale:

For Sensors:

1x Additional Sensor: https://www3.oculus.com/en-us/rift/
2x Monoprice 15-Feet USB 2.0 Extension: http://a.co/1uRWG3A
2x Security Wall Mount- Adjustable Indoor/Outdoor Mount: http://a.co/5ZQxIal
Inateck Superspeed 7 Ports PCI-E to USB 3.0 Expansion Card: http://a.co/gFqRg0x

For HMD:

Cable Matters High Speed HDMI 10-Feet Extension Cable: http://a.co/9mBQCrU
Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 10-Feet Extension Cable: http://a.co/6Q1kIKd

Touch does a pretty good job at simulating hands in VR. The Vive wands are great as things like guns and swords, both have their place.

I do a lot of public demos and to be honest the rift is far more problematic with cable management, USB related issues and setup time/issues, in comparison I can set up the Vive at schools and NGO offices in 15 minutes or less, including booting the computer and running the calibration setup.

In terms of other factors the world scale of the Rift is slightly larger in things like Longbow, which actually makes hitting things easier.

The Rift has less screen door effect but the god rays are significantly worse.

The Vive sweet spot is not as large or sharp.

The stereo overlap in the Rift is more noticeable.

The Rift has quality built in headphones and microphone, while the Vive has a built in camera but a poorer microphone.

The Vive has cutouts in the foam and accommodates glasses better.

Cost comparisons need to take in applicable shipping and taxes, the possible need for additional tracking cameras, compatible usb hardware, usb and hdmi cable extensions.

Oculus has ATS and ASW, SteamVR has ATW-reprojection but also allows Oculus ATS/ASW via the Oculus SDK: https://steamcommunity.com/app/250820/discussions/0/305510202679681031/

Other extraneous factors to take into account include business practices, your room space and game play preferences, the shape of your head or any eyesight issues.

I have had the odd crash on Steam, but it is pretty rare, I have had far more significant issues with things like processing a refund via Oculus Help, which then bricked Medium and that took a week to sort out. So I think it fair to say both store fronts have their features, limitations and problems.

Personally I have found there is less difference between the HMDs than there is between individual users, based on having done thousands of public demos.

u/Frexxia · 10 pointsr/oculus

Oculus really needs to give some better information here. I cannot find the card they recommend (Amazon) anywhere here in Norway. I don't want to end up in a similar situation to OP where I buy a card and then that one is unsupported as well.

edit: Ordering from Amazon would cost me something like 650 NOK ($73). I could almost buy a new motherboard for that.

u/Retrobuster · 9 pointsr/oculus

I'd recommend buying a USB 3.0 expansion card if your motherboard has a spot for it. This one is suggested by Oculus. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Using a hub serves almost no purpose when it comes to VR because all of the power is still eventually being funneled through one usb port on your computer. That being said, it's possible the Rift and sensors will work with your current set up, but tracking might be a bit spotty using that many 2.0 ports for the sensors.

EDIT: I misread your post a bit. If you're only using 2 sensors and the headset, you should be fine with your set up. I'd recommend plugging the headset into a 2.0 along with one sensor and the other sensor into 3.0. You might need to play around with that part of it, but I think you'll be alright. I'd still recommend the expansion card though.

u/phoenixdigita1 · 9 pointsr/oculus

You made the same mistake I did. The 7 port card is not as good as the 4 port card. Moar ports is not better.

The 7 port card daisy chains through an additional USB hub causing more chance of issues. Not to mention all 7 ports go through the same host controller.

Read this blog
https://www.oculus.com/blog/oculus-roomscale-identifying-host-controllers/

Then from this screenshot of my computer just then.
http://imgur.com/YQ0WmkZ

Note how the 7 port card goes from

Host Controller -> Root Hub -> Hub -> Sensor


Wheras the 4 port card goes from

Host Controller -> Root Hub -> Sensor

I would always recommend the 4 port one over the 7 port one

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-E-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/

I'd like to see a screenshot of the Startech card like mine just to see how they all connect to the PCI bus if you have the time?

Startek will always be the better card but at a cost. Next in terms of quality for a single 4 port Inatek card (two if you really think you need them). I would put the 7 port card at the bottom of the list.

Infact I would not even be recommending it. Great work for putting together the video and it is very informative however you made the same mistake I did and went for moar ports. You should have chosen the 4 port card.

u/RealParity · 9 pointsr/oculus

Oculus recommends only one extension card, this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPIMJEW

u/bywall · 8 pointsr/Fighters

Your motherboard's USB chipset doesn't support the PS3 Round 1 TE. If you have room in your PC to add PCI expansion cards, pick up one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Syba-Port-Card-Components-SD-VIA-5U/dp/B000JFJZGG

Its got the correct chipset and should get your PC to recognize the stick as a generic controller.

u/rcski77 · 8 pointsr/DataHoarder

As a bunch of people have already said, using a RAID card with ZFS is bad news. What you're going to want instead is a LSI 9211-8i flashed in IT mode. This will function as a simple HBA and give FreeNAS raw access to your drives.

There's a nice thread on the FreeNAS forums all about it.
https://forums.freenas.org/index.php?threads/confused-about-that-lsi-card-join-the-crowd.11901/

edit: Here's the card I have in my build https://www.amazon.com/SAS9211-8I-8PORT-Int-Sata-Pcie/dp/B002RL8I7M

u/Atari_Historian · 8 pointsr/oculus

"If this card is not available to you, use another PCI-E USB 3.0 Expansion Card that uses the Fresco Logic FL1100EX chipset." Source: support.oculus.com

I got the 4-port one, I believe because the 5-port was out-of-stock. After plugging in the power connector to the card, no problems, so I can vouch for this one.

u/toastman42 · 8 pointsr/VRGaming

Yeah, it can be a little overwhelming to figure out where to start. Some good answers already in this thread. The good news is it's actually a lot more straight-forward than it appears. The main source of confusion/apparent complexity comes from the fact that right now both the prior gen and new gen models are still on the market, making it appear that there are a ton of headsets. In reality, there are only four that matter:

Oculus Quest: VR for people that don't have or don't want to buy a decent gaming PC. Cordless, entirely self-contained, no PC needed, no external sensors needed, but limited by the mobile hardware specs. MSRP: $399 USD

Oculus Rift S: really the go-to for a first-time VR headset. Great display that solves most of the clarity issues of older headsets, great controllers, uses inside-out tracking like the Quest (i.e. no external sensors to setup), and pretty reasonable PC hardware spec requirements to run it. So quick and easy to setup that once I finished downloading the software installer, I was up and playing VR in only about 10 minutes. The relatively tiny sound is the only real commonplace complaint, but it does have a headphone jack on the headset. $399 USD

The Valve Index: currently the super high-end of VR gaming. Higher resolution display than the Rift S, higher refresh rate, fancy finger-tracking controllers. Also getting some flack for some quality control issues on its thumbsticks. The only one of the new gen VR headsets to still require external sensors and a base station, which are pretty big negatives for VR newbies since that complicates setup and calibration. Due to the higher specs, it also needs a super high-end PC to really get the most out of it. $999 USD for the starter kit, which does include everything you need to get started, although many users recommend purchasing a third lighthouse sensor (the kit comes with two).

The HTC Cosmos: HTC's replacement for the Vive. Not out yet, so exact specs, pricing, and release date are still unknown. However, it has been confirmed that it will use inside-out tracking (so no external sensors to mess with), and cost less than $1000. The latest unofficial rumors are that it is expected to launch this September, and it's expected to have both specs and pricing somewhere between the Rift S and the Index. Worth keeping an eye on.

What not to bother with:
The Vive. Vive was the premium VR headset of its era, so it's not that there is anything wrong with it per se, it's just outdated and obsolete tech. The display and controllers are just inferior to all of the newer kits.

Windows Mixed Reality (WMR): this one is probably responsible for the VR market looking crowded, since this is a standard defined by MS and not a specific headset, and lots of different manufacturers make or have made WMR headsets. So when you see PC VR headsets from Lenovo, HP, Asus, Acer, Dell, Samsung, etc, they are all just competing WMR headsets. The head strap and display vary in quality, but they all use the same controllers, which are generally considered to be inferior to Vive, Oculus, and Index controllers. The main appeal originally of WMR was to make VR cheaper and easier to get into since WMR has the least expensive headset options, and it was the first to use inside-out tracking so no external sensors. However, its inside-out tracking is done with only two forward-facing cameras, so the tracking is significantly inferior to Quest (four onboard cameras) or Rift S (five onboard cameras) inside-out tracking.

As for specs, your graphics card meets the min, but is at the very low-end of the min. You should be able to run older or less demanding VR games just fine, but may have to run newer or visually more sophisticated VR games at low graphics settings to maintain stable framerate. I would expect Beatsaber to run fine.

One last note: VR headsets, the Rift S in particular, can be pretty picky about your USB 3.0 ports. Specifically, ASMedia USB controllers that many motherboards use tend to cause lots of problems with Oculus headsets. This Inatek add-in USB 3.0 controller has solved lots of people's VR headset issues, is officially suggested by Oculus tech support, and is pretty inexpensive at only around $23. If you decide to pick up a VR headset, might be wise to proactively check your USB 3.0 controller and if it's ASMedia just go ahead and order the Intek USB 3.0 controller along with the headset.

u/Reddituser703 · 8 pointsr/oculus

>I've had frequent struggles with USB bandwidth and various cables, and then a sensor flat-out died on me. I'd blamed my USB extenders for so long that I troubleshot the sensor for WEEKS before finally resorting to RMA'ing the sensor, at which point I found the replacement sensor I was sent worked perfectly, and I had just wasted a ton of time troubleshooting a sensor.

Are you plugging all 3 sensors onto your motherboard? You're probably hitting USB bandwidth limits for your USB controller; you probably need a PCIe to USB card. I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM

u/ndboost · 8 pointsr/homelab

IBM M1015 in IT mode -> SFF-8088 to SFF-8087 adapter card -> NetApp DS4243 via QFSP -> SFF-8088 cables.

I didn't have to reformat the disks or anything, just plugged it in and FN detected all 24 disks.

u/atemysix · 7 pointsr/homelab

A HighPoint 4-Port USB 3.0 PCI-Express 2.0 x 4 HBA RocketU 1144D.

It works, but I do have to use the pcie_acs_override kernel command line option (+ patch) to split the individual controllers into separate IOMMU groups for PCI-e passthrough. Works for me without issue, but ymmv -- in general, overriding PCI-e ACS isn't recommended.

I also tried a StarTech 4 Port PCI Express (PCIe) SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Card Adapter w/ 4 Dedicated 5Gbps Channels - UASP - SATA / LP4 Power but had issues. I can't remember what exactly, but I couldn't get it to work as individual controllers.

u/sureguy · 7 pointsr/unRAID

Generally when people are discussing USB passthrough they're passing through the controller, so that it is transparent to the guest OS (guest os is responsible for drivers, etc, and has direct hardware access). For hot plug to work the controller would need to be passed through.

Any HUB/Extender that connects to a USB port that you choose to pass through would be passed through in its entirety to a single guest OS.

There is this card that has a separate controller for each port, which means you could have 4 VMs each with their own host controller:

https://www.amazon.com/Sonnet-Allegro-Pro-PCIe-card/dp/B00XPUHO10?th=1

Then you could add a hub to each of the ports if you want more devices connected.

u/Ayit_Sevi · 7 pointsr/DataHoarder

You can purchase something like this and then buy two of these breakout cables to add 8 HDDs without using any of the sata ports.

u/zerostyle · 7 pointsr/htpc

2 best options:

  1. Buy a PCIe card with USB 3.0 headers - $20ish - something like this or this - both around $16-$20 - you'll get full USB 3.0 speeds

  2. If you just want a cheap option, you can get a USB 2.0 -> USB 3.0 cable. The front ports will only run at USB 2.0 speeds (WAY slow), but if you don't care much it's an OK option
u/Fakename998 · 7 pointsr/oculus
u/cybereality · 7 pointsr/oculus

If your desktop PC doesn't have the USB 3.0 ports, you can buy this add-on card (which is confirmed to work): http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPIMJEW

u/Grey406 · 7 pointsr/oculus

As Oculus Support pointed out, it might be a bandwidth issue trying to run all 3 sensors from your motherboard.

Pick up one of these https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM and you'll be able to plug in 2 sensors + headset into it, then have the third sensor connected to one of the Motherboard USB ports. General rule of thumb is no more than 2 sensors per USB controller as they require a ton of bandwidth.

If you dont mind spending a little more, this card has 4 USB controllers, 1 for each port allowing you to plug in 3x sensors + Headset or 4x sensors https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Port-SuperSpeed-Adapter-Power/dp/B00HJZEA2S

u/Heaney555 · 7 pointsr/Games

No, you need 1x USB 3.0 port for the headset and 3x USB 2.0 or above ports for the 3 sensors.

You can add 4x USB 3.0 ports to your computer for $24 (remember, Rift+Touch+3rdSensor is $142 cheaper than HTC Vive, so even if you need this it's still all $118 cheaper).

u/RandyMagnum007 · 7 pointsr/simracing

I would recommend installing a USB expansion card in an open pci slot if possible. I have this one. Have never had any issues.

Inateck Superspeed 7 Ports PCI-E to USB 3.0 Expansion Card - 5 USB 3.0 Ports and 2 Rear USB 3.0 Ports Express Card Desktop with 15 Pin SATA Power Connector, Including Two Power Cables (KT5002)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FPIMICA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_r8e1BbR81HJFS

u/DUSTDENIED · 6 pointsr/Vive

If you continue to have problems you will need to buy a inateck board.

Inateck on amazon

u/LOLBaltSS · 6 pointsr/hoggit

Since you're looking at an Oculus Rift, see the following knowledge base article: https://support.oculus.com/hc/en-us/articles/214829648-Error-My-computer-does-not-have-the-recommended-USB-ports

A lot of third party USB 3.0 has been flagging as incompatible. However, Oculus has been recommending this Inateck card.

u/mrfixitx · 6 pointsr/DataHoarder

If you just want something inexpensive that will still allow you to saturate gigabit lan you could get this card that uses pci-e x1.

http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AZ9T3OU?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

u/TD-4242 · 6 pointsr/oculus

what would solve issues for me would be a roll back to 1.10 why would a patch make me have to rearrange my USB ports? Currently I have a 4 port 4 controller USB card, so rearranging them isn't really going to do anything anyway.

u/milkybuet · 6 pointsr/CableManagement

Option A: If you just need connectivity, but not bandwidth, get a hub.

Option B: If you need to connect stuff that also want bandwidth, or don't want/need more stuff on your desk, a PCIe add-on card. This is my next purchase.

u/wrtcdevrydy · 6 pointsr/DataHoarder

Okay, here's what you're going to want to learn.

Mini-SAS comes in two versions (internal - 8087 or external - 8088).

If you want to connect drives internally, you get an LSI card with internal (8i, 16i)

If you want to connect drives externally, you get an LSI card with external (8e, 16e)

Say you have two boxes, you need one external LSI card with 8088 and one passthrough 8088-8087 card.

You'll need 8087 cables to SATA (an 8i card will have two ports for 2 cables where each support 4 sata cables)

You'll need 8088 cables to connect the external cards together

Figure out how many SATA hard drives you want to support.

8e - 8 SATA drives per external card.

16e - 16 SATA drives per external card.

Shopping List for 16 External Hard Drives from one computer to another:

External Card ($30): https://www.ebay.com/itm/LSI-6GB-16-Port-SAS-SATA-HBA-Controller-Card-SAS9201-16e-H3-25379-01G-Grade-A/273461892263?hash=item3fab9954a7:g:CSMAAOSwfkFbm-XI:sc:USPSFirstClass!33175!US!-1

Mini-SAS Passthrough (2 x $30): https://www.amazon.com/CableDeconn-SFF-8088-SFF-8087-Adapter-bracket/dp/B00PRXOQFA

8087 to SATA (4 x $8): https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-SFF-8087-female-Internal-Splitter/dp/B013JP7YI8/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_bs_lp_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=AYXPARRHH92MDMM64NJJ

8088 to 8088 (4 x $15): https://www.amazon.com/CableDeconn-SAS26P-SFF-8088-External-Attached/dp/B00S7KTXW6/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1537045400&sr=1-3&keywords=8088+to+8088

Edit: Please don't hesitate to ask questions before spending money, just make us a diagram showing where your disks are and where you want to hook them up.

u/Forbidden76 · 6 pointsr/oculus

You need a usb hub my man. Not enough power on your mobo usb. Look on amazon. Here it is.

Inateck Superspeed 4 Ports PCI-E to USB 3.0 Expansion Card - Interface USB 3.0 4-Port Express Card Desktop with 15 Pin SATA Power Connector, [ Include with A 4pin to 2x15pin Cable + A 15pin to 2x 15pin SATA Y-Cable ] (KT4001) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_t0TPBb3ZBXT13

u/VirusShell · 6 pointsr/oculus

Better link to the 5-port: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FPIMICA/

u/deathmonkeyz · 6 pointsr/oculus

> If i get a USB 3.0 hub, and plug it into USB 2.0 port on my PC will that work with the oclulus set up?

No. You're still limited by USB 2.0 speeds. You can buy a PCIe expansion card. Oculus recommend this http://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-E-Expansion/dp/B00FPIMICA

Any of the Inateck series should work (I have the 5 port one).

u/radioactive_muffin · 6 pointsr/buildapc

More of a minor troubleshooting, no damage story...but maybe just a little reading.

Back in february...Got all my stuff, spent about $2.1k and got everything I pretty much wanted. 1070, 7700k, 165hz 1440p g-sync monitor (the one on sales right now in fact), m.2 ssd, 2x sata ssd, 2tb hdd, some extra random stuff, rog mb and a full size case. So got the cpu in mb, ram in, graphics card, and m.2. Do a post check, all good. Put in the rest of storage stuff, wanted to see how she handled so installed windows...still good. So I proceeded to put in a couple of the less common things. Alright, slap the side on, time to see how she games. Turn it on...won't even post ._. w.t.f. Open it back up, try reseating everything, turn on, posts but crashes...manage to get to bios. So the crash report said failure of usb 3.1 turned on. wtf does that mean? My motherboard has a front panel 3.1 connection, better start there. Find it in bios, turn it off (not using it anyway, case doesn't have one so f it). restart...can't locate windows, loads to bios. Okay, so now what happened. After about 3 hours of searching, retrying things changing multiple configurations, getting even more crashes due to me having no idea what I'm doing, and looking through my mb manual...found the problem! I knew that disabling the 3.1 would disable some sata ports (5 and 6...while I was only using the first 3). Well turns out it also affected the second m.2 slot (the bottom one on the motherboard, used that because it's further from the cpu, and right in front of my side panel fan). So revert all my settings, disable 3.1, swapped the m.2 drive to the #1 slot, ggwp. It's now 2 am, I have work tomorrow (today), and I haven't had a maiden run of a new comp I just assembled...so I did the same thing anybody would do...called in sick.

tldr, had to have usb 3.1 turned off so the bottom pcie x 1 would work and prevent the system from crashing. with usb 3.1 disabled, my second m.2 slot (the only one I was using) became disabled...so had to swap my m.2 drive to the first slot.

Hope all goes well my dude(tte)!

u/friendly_neighbour19 · 5 pointsr/Vive

> it dumps me into a gray room

Do you mean:

  1. It dumps you into a grey room (SteamVR start-area) where you still have tracking

  2. Your screen turns grey and you have (obviously) no tracking.

    Anyways this sounds like USB-bandwidth issues. A good long-term solution is to get a PCI USB 3 card. This one is good.
u/soapinmouth · 5 pointsr/virtualreality

The rift is a very good deal right now, coming in at $200 cheaper for the controller+headset it's hard not to recommend that route until HTC drops their price a bit, but I will give you my observations.

If you have space I recommend the Vive as tracking can get wonky on the Rift in a large space(bigger than 4m diag), and having a large space for VR actually makes VR much more gratifying in my opinion. The Vive is also a bit better for people willing to tinker and upgrade as it is a little more open and available for those sort of things(see tpcast, delux audio strap, aGlass). Initial setup on the Vive is also a bit easier since the two trackers only need power cabled to it, while the rifts cameras require usb cords(no power) running all the way to the computer.

The Rift is definitely more ergonomic, and it breathes better causing less heat and sweating. It's possibly the more cost effective purchase at $200 cheaper, and it has more of that polished just works kind of look and feel to everything. I like to compare it to an Apple vs Android sort of thing, while SteamVR is a little more robust(android), Oculus home feels a bit cleaner and more polished(iOS). Then again, you can always just use SteamVR on the rift natively if you want since it supports both headsets, Oculus home only works with the rift. As far as the just works part, The nice thing with the rift is you just put it on pick up the controllers and you are in, it even has voice commands that work very well to launch the game. There is no on/off button on anything, it all just works and starts automatically when you put it on as long as your computer is on, don't even have to start up oculus home. The Vive has a similar autostart feature, but it is a bit more clunky, requires steam to be running, doesn't always work in my experience, and requires holding a power button on the headset to initialize followed by the power buttons on both controllers.

If you go with the Rift I highly recommend buying a third camera as this will allow tracking basically on par with the Vive outside of large areas and also has the added benefit of having a bit better occlusion resistance than the Vive which is limited to 2. Also be aware of the USB requirements for the rift. You are going to want at least 3 free usb 3.0 ports and one usb 2.0 port. If your pc does not have this, I recommend adding this..

https://smile.amazon.com/Inateck-Express-Connector-Controller-Internal/dp/B00FPIMJEW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1494008967&sr=8-4&keywords=pci+usb+3.0

Honestly, even if it does I still recommend one of these as splitting up the usb 3.0 connections between your motherboard and this card helps prevent strain on bandwidth which can lead to tracking issues, and if your pc is capable running everything through usb 3.0 instead of one on 2.0 helps tracking as well.

u/QuadrangularNipples · 5 pointsr/oculus

If you have a desktop, I would think you would have more luck going with the Inateck PCIE card

u/dualactioncomplete · 5 pointsr/oculus

Eh no, you'll need a Usb 3.0 PCI express card.

Just my opinion based on my experience, that's all.

The reason being that your board probably only has a single USB 3.0 controller on it, and that's not enough bandwidth overall, especially if you want to expand to room scale with additional sensors later.

Save yourself a headache, get either:

https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-KT5001-5-Port-Express-Connector/dp/B00FPIMJEW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1519902478&sr=8-2&keywords=inateck+usb+3.0

OR

https://www.amazon.com/Express-SuperSpeed-Adapter-Dedicated-Channels/dp/B00HJZEA2S/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1519902611&sr=1-3&keywords=startech+usb+3.0+pcie+expansion+card

though price-wise starting out, the Inateck is fine.

u/cpujockey · 5 pointsr/pcmasterrace

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPIMJEW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

should have went with this, more ports, and also has 2 controllers on it. MORE POWER!

u/ElectroPulse · 5 pointsr/oculus

It's this. It was recommended on this page. I wanted to be absolutely certain I got flawless tracking, so opted for a dedicated USB 3.0 controller for each port, so there wasn't any chance of running into a bandwidth limitation. Also wanted all three of the sensors to be running at USB 3.0, whereas they recommend plugging one of the three into USB 2.0 otherwise (again, due to bandwidth limitations under one controller).

I don't doubt you could have a flawless experience without it, but I wanted to make damn well certain that it would be plug-and-play goodness from the start, given my history of building up expectations and ultimately being disappointed.

EDIT: Forgot to answer your last question. It was actually just the "First Contact" demo thing that you start out with the learn the controls. This the realism and accuracy of the controls, and interacting with the environment in such a natural manner was just amazing. I went and played through it again this evening. The other games I've tried (SuperHot and RoboRecall are really, really good as well, it's just that was the first one, and the environmental interaction is really cool).

u/Rashkh · 5 pointsr/photography
  • Pcie USB 3.0 Hub - $20
  • USB 3.0 Reader - $12

    I really doubt you'll find an esata reader for under $35. Plus you get an extra 3 USB 3.0 ports if you ever need external storage.
u/Phastor · 5 pointsr/DataHoarder

This is exactly a situation I had and was doing research on for months before finally pulling the trigger on something.

The answer is hardware passthrough. Get yourself a cheap PCIe SATA controller and pass that sucker through to your linux guest. As long as the guest OS supports it, it will be able to see any drive connected to it as if it were directly connected to it as physical hardware.

Here's what I'm using.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005B0A6ZS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ESXi doesn't see any storage attached to it, nor has drivers for it. But it passed through just fine to my Win2k8 VM. Windows sees the drive connected to it as what it actually is and not a virtual disk.

u/dragontamer5788 · 5 pointsr/hardware
  1. ECC support -- If the memory of your QNAP gets corrupted, then your data is lost in transit. By buying ECC Memory, I virtually guarantee that this will not happen to me. (ECC RAM is very similar in concept to RAID6 or RAID5, except instead of for disks ECC RAM is for RAM). Because the entire computer I built is out of ECC RAM, I have one more layer of assurances that the data is safe.

    I have unconfirmed ECC Support. Error Correction does not work on this motherboard as I hoped.

  2. ZFS Support -- ZFS is an enterprise filesystem designed to store data and store data well. Bitrot can destroy your data EVEN if you are running RAID drives. By using ZFS (which is constantly scrubbing, checksumming, and double-checking the data), my system is immune to bitrot. Your typical NAS is not.

  3. The Motherboard immediately supports 6 hard drives. The QNAP only supports 2-drives. In the future, when I buy more drives, I can easily expand my computer. The QNAP is stuck with 2-bay at the maximum.

  4. I'm comfortable with FreeBSD -- This is a soft advantage, but I work with Linux systems at work (and Windows at home and work). So I'm very comfortable with tools like RSync and the command line in general. In any case, I have a clear backup strategy for the NAS: insert an external hard drive (probably NTFS formatted) and then RSync the data to the hard drive, and then store the hard drive elsewhere.

  5. ZFS Snapshots -- ZFS has a lot of advantages. Another major advantage that I plan to take advantage of is snapshots. The entire disk can be stored as a snapshot that only takes up space when files are modified. With ZFS Snapshots, I can rollback the filesystem very easily.

  6. I have a full PC -- This box is a fully functioning PC. If I decided to splurge, I can buy a SAS Card and then start chunking out LTO6 tapes (Which are only $30 for 2.5TB of storage). Granted, a LTO6 Tape Drive is extremely expensive, but a "full PC" has almost no limit to the customization options available to me. A more realistic option is to just buy a cheap expansion card and support maybe... 4 more hard drives in my case for only a $40 upgrade.

    ----------

    So basically, my points come down to:

  7. Reliability (ECC RAM)
  8. Reliability (ZFS Protection vs Bitrot)
  9. ZFS Snapshots and Cloning.
  10. Expandability (6-SATA drives easy. More with a cheap expansion card)
  11. Expandability
  12. I personally have familiarity with *nix command line and can comfortably do advanced tasks on Nas4Free beyond what is even available on the WebGUI.

    Bitrot is a very simple problem to understand. What happens if instead of failing, a Hard Drive starts returning bad data to you? In traditional RAID, the hard drive has NOT crashed, so parity will not be checked. The file may be corrupted despite RAID protecting you. ZFS adds more checks to protect against this problem, while traditional RAID (which most NAS uses) do not.

    There are additional features that are interesting (Webserver support, Bittorrent support, DLNA server, Headless Virtualbox). But I don't plan to do anything complicated. So I'm mostly focused on reliability.

    Of course, NAS4Free supports the standard NAS features. You can easily add hard drives to zpools which can then be added to datastores. Volumes can be exported with iSCSI. Datastores can be exported using CIFS / Samba for Microsoft support, NFS for Linux Support, AFP support to support Mac OSX... or all three if you got a complicated setup. QNAP, Synology and all the commercial solutions will get you at least this much, which is hugely useful.
u/peterwemm · 5 pointsr/freebsd

Here's what I would do in your situation:

Put the standalone SSD devices on 6Gb+ AHCI motherboard connectors. These will do quite nicely. Motherboard AHCI slots are pretty well connected.

I'd grab a LSI SAS 9207-8i (about $100 on Amazon) and 2 x SFF-8087-SATA fanout cables (about $10 on amazon). It uses the mps driver in the base system. This combination is very, very solid and reliable. I use it myself for a media server.

You can add a second 9207-8i if you need more ports. I've found the AHCI pci cards work well too but watch the PCIe connectivity.

This device: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00AZ9T3OU cost $15.

ahci0: <ASMedia ASM1061 AHCI SATA controller> ...
ahci0: AHCI v1.20 with 2 6Gbps ports, Port Multiplier supported

Keep in mind the PCIe lane bandwidth: 1 x PCIe lane is: PCIe 1.x: 250MByte/sec, 2.x: 500MByte/sec, 3.x 985MByte/sec.

That 2 port AHCI card I linked above is 1 lane PCIe2.0. If you put 2 x SSDs on it that could do 600MB/sec each, the most it can shuffle through the motherboard connection is 500MB/sec. The LSI card is 8 lane PCIe 3.0 so that choke-point isn't there.

I'd add a second 9207-8i if I wanted to do any non-trivial amount of IO on more than 8 ports.

Also, don't set your expectations too high for L2ARC. My personal observations lead me to believe that the overheads of running it don't really pay off until you start having a L2ARC device with a good 5x to 10x performance advantage over the backend devices. YMMV of course, but I've never not been disappointed with L2ARC setups.

Personally, I over-spec system ram in preference to L2ARC.

u/Wheels35 · 5 pointsr/oculus

Unfortunately that isn't the 'Oculus' recommended card, but this is. https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-KT4001-SuperSpeed-Ports-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1522101057&sr=8-6&keywords=inatek

It is very likely that the chipset on that Rosewill isn't 'properly' compatible

u/drrenhoek · 5 pointsr/oculus

Few useful links to get you started.

Oculus Rift Room Scale Setup Guide

List of recommended cable extensions

I'm using 3 Sensor setup in L configurations with CableCreation CD0034 and Inateck Superspeed 4 Ports PCI-E to USB 3.0 Expansion Card. My sensors are mounted about 10 inches and 40 degrees away from the ceiling. Perfect tracking in the play area. Good tracking out of usual play area, when in bed playing seated games in view of only two sensors which are 12 to 15 feet away.

u/Bletotum · 5 pointsr/oculus

No.

Get this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM

It's the Oculus recommended USB expansion. You need dedicated ports, not splicing the bandwidth of 1 into 4 via hub. Cheaper PCI expansions are often not good enough, so get the one I just linked.

Change the link to .co.uk and it'll still show you the right product.

u/NyanBlade · 5 pointsr/oculus

You only need two USB 3.0 ports for the Rift and sensor:

1x 3.0 USB port for the headset

1x 3.0 USB port for the 3D Positional Tracker

1x 3.0 USB port for Oculus Touch (available at a later date)

1x 2.0 USB port for Xbox wireless controller


The other USB port is for an additional sensor for Oculus Touch so you'll be fine for some time.

This is the PCI-E expansion card Oculus suggests: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-E-Expansion/dp/B00FPIMICA/

u/Cothilian · 5 pointsr/oculus

I think I'll actually try to answer your questions (instead of just spamming my fanboy agenda).

  1. What matters in regards to USB ports is the total bandwidth available. Some motherboards aren't able to supply enough bandwidth for the Rift and 3 sensors. I wouldn't worry about this issue unless the Oculus software reports "Poor tracking quality" on your sensors. If that happens you might have to buy a PCI-E USB expansion card ($25).

  2. A third sensor will improve tracking quality for room scale and larger play spaces. You can do smaller room scale with 2 sensors, by placing them in opposing corners of your play area. Mount them as high up as possible, pointed toward each other, and angled downward. Your milage may vary depending on the size of your play space, and if you are able to place the sensors optimally.

    Some further notes:

  3. You should be fine starting out with 2 sensors, and expanding to 3 if you notice tracking issues. Note that a 3rd sensor may in some cases require the previously mentioned PCI-E USB expansion card (Link: Oculus recommended card).

  4. Since it's your first time trying VR: Take it easy in the beginning. All the experiences in the Oculus app has a comfort rating. Start with things that are rated "Comfortable", before moving on to Moderate and Intense levels. If you start experiencing nausea or discomfort, exit VR and take a break. Never try to power through the discomfort. And don't worry if VR sickness happens a lot in the beginning. Your VR legs will get stronger.

  5. If you have a beefy computer congratz! Download the Oculus Tray Tool and experiment with super sampling for a sharper visual experience.
u/keplera · 5 pointsr/pcmasterrace

You could buy something like this and add usb 3 to your pc though

u/doctorkrypto · 5 pointsr/Vive
u/glitchvern · 5 pointsr/oculus

960 is min spec.

970 is recommended spec.

CPU should be ok, I used a fx 8350 from last July until a month or so after Ryzen came out. On a Gigabyte 990FX-UD3 actually, I think. There were a couple of different versions of that board and they did change the usb3 controller at one point.

Everything looks good, the only potential problem is the sensors not liking the USB3 ports (the headset isn't that picky), but the sensors will work on the USB2 ports and you can get one of the known working USB3 cards if you want to give your sensors more omph. I got the Inateck one way back at the beginning, but there are more known working ones now.

In Oculus's roomscale extra equipment blog post they listed a few more controllers:

Here are a few USB cards we’ve used with reasonable success:

Four Controllers (One Per Port. Requires placement in x4 or x16 PCI-E slot)

HighPoint RocketU 1144d

Startech SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Card Adapter

Two Controllers (One Per Two Ports)

Startech SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Card Adapter

One Controller (One Across Four Ports)

Inateck Superspeed USB 3.0 Expansion Card

They did put a footnote at the bottom of the blog post, but I think it was more in reference to the hdmi/usb extension cables, which are notoriously finicky.

Footnote is:

**Non-Oculus equipment/service references are not recommendations, guarantees, or endorsements of products or performance. Your results may vary. These are instead options to vary your own customized experiences. Furthermore, incorrect installation or use of any products or items can damage your computer, space, or otherwise impact performance. If you’re not experienced or qualified to do so yourself, please seek assistance.

u/_rst · 5 pointsr/oculus

I doubt the Rift or trackers will need the full bandwidth of USB3. It's probably for the power requirements (USB3 allows 900mA to be drawn through one port).

If it does turn out to be bandwidth-limited, you could always get a card that has an independent USB3 controller for each port:
http://www.amazon.com/Express-SuperSpeed-Adapter-Dedicated-Channels/dp/B00HJZEA2S

I highly doubt that, though... Oculus wouldn't make a product that almost nobody could use because their PCI bus is being saturated. They'd lower the specs to meet what most gaming setups have.

u/Kerfuffle_ · 5 pointsr/burstcoinmining

If it were me, for a core system I'd be looking at something like this: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/W9mvKB

That CPU supports avx2 which should allow good plotting speed. Also has hyperthreading meaning it can read multiple drives at once decreasing overall read speed.

We're going to use an nvme drive to stage plots using turboplotter because the write speed on those Seagate externals is completely terrible if you try plotting them directly.

Finally, with a built-in GPU, you won't need to purchase a discreet unit allowing you to spend a few extra dollars on 16gigs of fast RAM (ryzen specifically needs fast RAM). Now because we won't be using our pcie slots on unnecessary GPU's, you can add two USB host controller cards like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HJZEA2S/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1519885103&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=startech+usb+pcie as to not overburden the onboard USB controller.

Please note however, the ryzen 5 2400g is a new offering from AMD so please please contact your mobo vendor or ASRock and confirm that you can install this specific apu without requiring a BIOS flash before it'll function (having to do so would mean temporarily installing an older chip).

Hope this helps.

u/lessthan3u2 · 5 pointsr/Vive

If you get it sorted to where you have 5 minutes of tracking, try the Base station FOV visualizer skin.

You might also consider a PCIe USB card, in the event that (as is commonly reported) the problem is with the communication between the Vive and USB ports.

> tried repositioning the base stations as much as I can in my room.

How are the base stations mounted? How large is your play space? What GPU are you running?

u/Robbbbbbbbb · 5 pointsr/oculus

Not available in most stores for same-day pick-up, but beats Amazon's next-week availability.

USB extensions


I also had a bit of confusion when reading through Oculus' guide to room-scaling about what to buy to extend my range, so I though I'd at least share what I bought for three sensors:

u/h00paj00ped · 4 pointsr/oculus

This will most likely be an issue of not enough controllers. I had the same issue when I first got mine. I dropped the dosh on the quad controller PCI Express card and haven't had any issues since, 3 sensors and the headset plugged into this card, and one extra sensor plugged in to a regular usb port on the machine.

u/FuerGrissaOstDrauka · 4 pointsr/oculus

Yeah, I'm using the Startech card with 4 dedicated controllers
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJZEA2S/

u/LeKKeR80 · 4 pointsr/DataHoarder

My most recent DAS build:

Add in a 9201-16e for a DAS. Here's a simple DAS build i recently completed for a total of 12x3.5 HDD slots and 4x2.5 SSD slots:

mATX case [InWin Mana 137]

3x5.25 to 5X3.5 HDD adapter [or this one]

PCIe HDD adapter

power supply

fans

fan controller

• cables [SAS, SAS to SATA forward breakout, SATA power, etc.]

• Optional - PCIe adapter for easier cable connect/disconnects

• Optional - SAS expander

u/7824c5a4 · 4 pointsr/homelab

He mentioned in his last post that it has QSFP ports, and that he would be buying an SFF-8088 to QSFP adapter. No idea how NetApp handles it though.

OP says
> IBM M1015 in IT mode -> SFF-8088 to SFF-8087 adapter card -> NetApp DS4243 via QFSP -> SFF-8087 cables

u/BE_chems · 4 pointsr/unRAID

That USB PCIE card is pretty amazing !
https://www.amazon.com/Sonnet-Allegro-Pro-PCIe-card/dp/B00XPUHO10?th=1

Not cheap but a cool find !

But I can't see myself drop $2000 on a cpu..

u/austinftwxd · 4 pointsr/WindowsMR

Yeah I got it working by using a pcie USB 3.0 add in card. The issue has to do with some early usb 3.0 ports not supplying the appropriate amount of power it is also a known issue on the oculus and Vive, although oddly enough my oculus wasn't affected. The exact card I used is the Rosewill Rc-508 (4 port external usb3.0 pci Express card) this is the Amazon link to the card https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011LZY20G?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

u/Anergos · 4 pointsr/buildapc

Card readers with usb 3.0 use usb3.0 headers. If your board does not have a usb 3.0 header, then you can't use one of them to get usb3.0.

The only way to get usb3.0 on non usb3.0 compatible boards is by using a pcie controller like this.

If you want to use a usb3.0 in the front of the case with no mods, then you'd have to get a pcie usb controller with a usb3.0 header and a 3.5" usb3.0 (be it a card reader or not).

u/ZakkaChan · 4 pointsr/WindowsMR

I bought this one, and seems to work just fine for me.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011LZY20G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Warning it needs power cable, which does not come with one.

I've had my Samsung Odyssey for a few months now.

u/firepixel · 4 pointsr/oculus

I'm running a GIGABYTE GA-Z87X-UD3H 1150 Mobo, i5 4690k CPU, 16 GB of GSKILL memory, 3 solid state hard drives (1TB, 500GB and 240GB), DVD-Burner and a 1070 EVGA SuperClock video card. I have 3-12" case lights and 6 case fans (1-240mm, 5-120mm). I keep my Astro A50 headphones, my xBox 360 controller and my phone plugged in / charging USB when I VR. Everything plugged in is USB 3.0 and I haven't had any power or tracking issues with 3 sensors. I'm running this ancient 500W OCZ power supply from 2008. I didn't upgrade my power supply during my last couple upgrades because because videos cards and CPUs have been becoming so power efficient. I think the power issues people are experiencing have to do with how the main board handles power and how much it supplies to the USB controller and less to do with the power supply. I assume mine is pretty tough since the 6-USB ports on the back are all 3.0. I'd take a good look at your mother board before buying a new PSU. Does anyone know if the PCI-e x1 USB cards would help? It seems they'd get supplied power separate from the on-board USB controller, I'm not sure how that works though. I bought one to free up USB ports but I haven't installed it yet. It will be interesting to see if my 500W can handle that too.

Eek, I just noticed I'm running pretty much the same mobo as OP. I guess I'd try a powered USB hub, it's hard to believe my 500W is kicking so much ass.

u/acekingoffsuit · 4 pointsr/Fighters

Maybe. The most common issue with this is that PS3 MadCatz sticks don't work on PCs with nVidia chipsets. You'd have to get some sort of workaround, like installing a PCI USB card like this.

If your PC doesn't use nVidia or you have a 360 stick, there's something else going on.

u/TheCheapNinja · 4 pointsr/DataHoarder

LSI LOGIC SAS 9207-8i Storage Controller LSI00301


Mini-SAS to 4x SATA Forward Breakout Cable


I picked up one of these cards and the breakout cables and it handles 8TB drives, easy to install. Works great

u/Antrasporus · 4 pointsr/DataHoarder

It depends on how many ports more you need and if you have some pcie slots free. I have two sybia cards with 4 ports each, similiar to this one here - amazon link

u/nickgiz · 4 pointsr/oculus

It seems not all dvi to hdmi adapters will work, the cable matters works for some people at least. There is also the cable matter display port to hdmi adapter https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K0UDYLM

You can also try use a HDMI repeater instead of extension https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GHL72XS/

I personally just use the AmazonBasics hdmi on gtx780ti and usb extension connect to the Inateck Superspeed 4 Ports
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH12O5I

u/bobbyh1ll · 4 pointsr/buildapcsales

m.2 PCI express adapter. IE

u/NewMaxx · 4 pointsr/buildapcsales

You can split a x8 or x16 slot into two or four x4 devices if the motherboard supports it, but you still need an appropriate adapter. Something like this.

u/Riezz · 4 pointsr/oculus

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPIMJEW
ordered it and got it within 10 days (Netherlands)

u/okal414 · 4 pointsr/VFIO

Assuming PCIe, I use Renesa Fresco Logic based card below:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00FPIMJEW

Mouse/keyboard and USB audio get passed through when guest starts and then back when guest closed.
Use cheap USB KVM with this so I can get keyboard/mouse back to host when guest running if I want to.

Internal header also means I can pass 2 of case front ports to Guest, quite handy.

u/Ilikeyoubignose · 4 pointsr/oculus
u/iniquous · 4 pointsr/obs

Not knowing anything about your setup I'm going to guess it's a USB bandwidth issue, not power. Not all motherboards are created equal in that some will include more USB controllers (different than ports) than others. The controller can be "split" with a hub, but based on the number of devices across that controller they must all share bandwidth. My first recommendation is to try switching the devices to different USB ports to see if you can get them all happy at once. Don't try to run them all off the same hub because that guarantees the same controller.

Edit: assuming this is your issue and you're on a desktop with a free pci slot:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Express-SuperSpeed-Dedicated-Channels/dp/B00HJZEA2S/ref=asc_df_B00HJZEA2S/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309776868400&hvpos=1o4&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10427848564261723381&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9058138&hvtargid=pla-441634214285&psc=1

Is going to be your "end all" solution. Each of the 4 ports has its own usb controller so even a device which uses the whole bandwidth will stay happy plugged in there. I've done a lot of fighting with Oculus Rift and Kinect2.0 which are bandwidth-hungry devices (most HD cameras/capcards over usb are) and this card laughs at usb problems.

u/ThatOnePerson · 4 pointsr/hardware

> Instead of getting a USB expansion card then, you could just get an internal connector to an open USB header like this

The problem is separate controllers. Most motherboards only have ~2 maybe 3 controllers for USB, and all the ports, including the internal ones, are connected to those controllers.

That's why there's something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Express-SuperSpeed-Adapter-Dedicated-Channels/dp/B00HJZEA2S which has 4 separate controllers or something.

u/fortheshitters · 4 pointsr/oculus

Please help me compile a list of known issues so we can itemize and isolate them with known successful fixes. If anyone has fixes please pile on and share them.

Known issues

  • random HDMI disconnects

    https://www.reddit.com/r/oculus/comments/5j21cd/a_plea_for_oculus_to_put_together_some_resources/

  • Trouble upgrading to 3rd sensor

  • Trouble upgrading to 4th sensor

  • Floating controller

  • Setup issue

  • Camera hand off issue

  • Controller Jitter

  • guardian wall shifting



    TROUBLESHOOTING

  • DO NOT MOUNT SENSORS UPSIDE DOWN. If you have them ceiling mounted, move those mounts to the walls so that your sensors can be right-side-up. - /u/MattVanAndel

  • Update Windows power plan settings. In your Power Plan's advanced settings, disable "USB selective suspend" - /u/MattVanAndel


  • In Device Manager, edit the properties for each USB hub and Oculus device and disable "Allow Windows to turn this off to save power" - /u/MattVanAndel


    Recommended Equipment

  • Inateck Superspeed 4 Ports PCI-E to USB 3.0 Expansion Card
u/F0UR_TWENTY · 4 pointsr/oculus

If you want to do 10ft extensions on the Rift S you need high quality cables, at least for the usb 3.0. I use Cables Matters usb and displayport cables to do 10ft on my Rift S. Nothing I have seen will allow the Rift S to do longer than 10 feet extensions.

The amazon basics 10ft usb cable would not work for me and I returned it and the cables matter one did. You also need a good usb port, in my case I needed to order an Inateck ktu3fr-4p usb card to have my Rift S work without and black screens or static passthrough problems.

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Extension-Feet/dp/B00L1K1KDE/

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Extension-Black-Feet/dp/B00C7SA21U/

https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/

u/Outsideerr · 4 pointsr/oculus

Have you got a PCI-E slot free? you can get a simple PCI-E to USB 3 card such as this: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-E-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM

u/JBishie · 4 pointsr/oculus

A quote from a similar thread:

>No.

>Get this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM

>It's the Oculus recommended USB expansion. You need dedicated ports, not splicing the bandwidth of 1 into 4 via hub. Cheaper PCI expansions are often not good enough, so get the one I just linked.

>Change the link to .co.uk and it'll still show you the right product.

u/zig11727 · 4 pointsr/oculus

Disable power management on all Generic SuperSpeed USB hubs and USB root hub 3.0 hubs in device manager. Check your Power Plan
https://www.hamoperator.com/Fusion/FusionFiles/K9EQ-Fusion-PDF-0023.pdf and the following link will show you how to disable Power Management on USB hubs in device manager.. https://community.spiceworks.com/topic/2127202-disable-usb-root-hub-power
If the above doesn't work you may need a usb 3.0 expansion board but power management must be disabled on all USB devices
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also if you are extensions test the unit without using the extensions.

u/TelcDunedain · 4 pointsr/Vive

I have those and find them to be flaky garbage for vive, replaced with

http://smile.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00FPIMICA

Which is what Oculus also recommends.

edit- and yes it fixed my issues with the camera etc

u/MiniMaelk04 · 3 pointsr/beatsaber

Did you resolve this? I'm having the exact same poblem. Dual vibration works fine in Superhot.

I'm on Rift CV1. Mobo is MSI B450 Tomahawk Max.

Edit:

I finally solved the problem by installing an internal PCIe USB extension card. I went for the Inateck one that Oculus recommends. Don't forget to plug in the SATA power cable or it won't work. Had me scratching my head for a bit.

u/CyricYourGod · 3 pointsr/oculus

Other devices don't try to max out a USB port. It's unlikely you plugged anything into your motherboard that is as demanding as a VR headset and Oculus is general seems to try to max out the port to the spec limit.

As Phalex said, you likely need to buy a USB expansion card to use your Rift. I have the one he's talking about and it works great. -- https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ -- this card will guarantee that your headset gets the data bandwidth and power it needs to operate.

If that doesn't work then you probably have a defective headset.

u/LostHisDog · 3 pointsr/oculus

From the FAQ:

Frequent sensor disconnection issues or tracking glitches
This is an issue with your motherboard's USB controller not being fully compliant with the USB 3.0 spec.

Try putting 1 of your sensors into a USB 2.0 port instead of having both in USB 3.0.

If that does not solve your issue, you should buy the Inateck KTU3FR-4P PCI-E USB 3.0 card: USA | UK | Canada | Germany | France

NOTE: only this exact model, the 4 port version, is verified to work on all systems. Do not buy an alternative.

https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM

___


It's not actually the recommended card perse anymore, the above was for the old Rift but it is the card most people are using. Sadly, the USB controller with the most issues is the Asmedia like the one you ordered.

u/GearsPoweredFool · 3 pointsr/virtualreality

If you're looking to save as much money and pull it off as "playable" you're probably looking at replacing the fx6300 with an 8350 + hope you have a PCI-E slot for a USB 3.0 card.

If you have the expansion slot you can do this

https://www.amazon.co.uk/AMD-Black-Vishera-Clock-Turbo/dp/B009O7YUF6 - 75 Euros

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ - 20 Euros

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Zotac-NVIDIA-GeForce-GDDR5-Graphics/dp/B01IA9FEOO - 250 Euros.

I'd still recommend getting out of the AM3 CPUs and upgrading, but understand budget constraints suck!

u/addictivepixels · 3 pointsr/oculus

That is close to what I did, and looks to be the same card. I bought two Inateck cards, each card having one controller: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ (non-referral link)

Oculus says you can have up to two sensors per controller. I'm using three sensors (two sensors on one Inatech card, the third on the other Inatech card, headset on motherboard USB 3.0 ports). Two of those sensors are on active USB 3.0 extension cables. No issues as of yet. Tracking has been solid, minimal occlusion, and zero USB issues.

Here is a good post from Oculus regarding USB and their hardware: https://www.oculus.com/blog/oculus-roomscale-balancing-bandwidth-on-usb/

u/subarutim · 3 pointsr/oculus

No, you need an expansion card. This is the one that's recommended. I purchased it and all my USB problems were solved. A hub is just a splitter. The expansion card will give you a whole new USB bus with the bandwidth you'll need.

u/Z1839 · 3 pointsr/macpro

Would something like this suffice Inateck Superspeed 7 Ports PCI-E to USB 3.0 Expansion Card - 5 USB 3.0 Ports and 2 Rear USB 3.0 Ports Express Card Desktop with 15 Pin SATA Power Connector, Including Two Power Cables (KT5002) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FPIMICA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oOMEDb6Q51NRV

u/Kimmern83 · 3 pointsr/oculus

http://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-E-Expansion/dp/B00FPIMICA is the reccomended usb card for those who does not have the required usb slots (Like me). I ordered one myself a few days ago actually.
Its pretty cheap and has 7 usb3 slots!
Its Oculus themselves who has it as reccomended on their support page btw.

u/codepony · 3 pointsr/NZXT

Oops, sorry, posting from my phone at work.

Inateck Superspeed 7 Ports PCI-E to USB 3.0 Expansion Card - Interface USB 3.0 5-Port & 2 Rear USB3.0 Port Express Card Desktop with 15 pin SATA Power https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FPIMICA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_1xZM9AfOjkUAG

u/IAmThe2nd · 3 pointsr/WindowsMR
u/Gooseinberry · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

Alternative option:Amazon has the 1920x (1st gen) for $199.


Motherboards are still pricy, however I picked up an open box x399 ASROCK professional gaming for $177, on eBay.


I always wanted to build a threadripper. FOr the price to performance Im extremely happy.


Just picked up "ASUS Hyper M.2 X16 PCIe 3.0 X4 Expansion Card V2 Supports 4 NVMe M.2 (2242/2260/2280/22110) Up to 128 Gbps for Intel VROC and AMD Ryzen Threadripper NVMe RAID "
Installing (4) SX8100 (1TB) SSD m.2 drives. Im expecting 12 Gps read speeds. I can use 2 of these with all of the PCI lands available on Threadripper. *Over 27GB per second in real world testing. See YouTUbe

u/sprousa · 3 pointsr/DataHoarder

Just get this and make your own for way cheaper.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Asus-Hyper-Expansion-Supports-Threadripper/dp/B07NQBQB6Z

u/StartupTim · 3 pointsr/unRAID

I have three of them, all of them shows me 4 separate NVME drives, and honestly it works exactly as if I had those bare nvme drive slots on the motherboard. I couldn't be more happy. I get max speeds, too, have them filled with Samsung 960 EVOs and works like an absolute champ.

https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-M-2-X16-V2-Threadripper/dp/B07NQBQB6Z

That is the exact one that I have multiple of.

When I build a new system, which will be soon, I'll likely buy two more!

u/edgesrazor · 3 pointsr/MoneroMining

I used these ones and all three worked, although at the moment I only have 3 gpu's on each one.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073W9KCFC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/DJ_Skryblz · 3 pointsr/gpumining

You also have two PCI Express slots, so pick up a PCI E splitter for one or both! You may run into issues if the motherboard doesn't have options like Above 4G Decoding or setting lane speed, but 3 should work fine.

https://www.amazon.com/Extender-Bitcoin-Litecoin-Ubit-Adapter-Ethereum/dp/B073W9KCFC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1517574065&sr=8-3&keywords=pcie+splitter&dpID=51-opCYTp1L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

u/Bcron · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

The lowly and forgotten PCI-E x4 to m.2 adapter.

It's an interesting bit of tech for 20 bucks, because it is precisely what it says - it allows one to run an M.2 drive over 4 lanes of PCI-E.

It isn't really difficult to make these things, since each PCI-E lane needs a trace to the corresponding pin on the M.2. It allows for one to put an NVMe drive into a system that otherwise wouldn't have that functionality. All one needs is a free PCI-E spot that isn't forced to x8 electrically by cutting the front 8 lanes (the front 8 are nearest to the left notch, and some motherboards make bottom-most PCI-E slots dead on those 8 lanes by not putting traces on those lanes, so that a graphics card will be forced to x8 on the back 8 lanes).

I think it's just marvelous and illustrates how well thought-out the PCI-E protocol is - my X79 rig from 2012 now has a boot drive that wasn't even a concept 5 years ago, thanks to PCI-E, a simple BIOS mod, and this adapter.

u/sekazi · 3 pointsr/oculus

I was having problems with just 2 sensors. I already had 10 devices using my USB controllers. I bought this USB Card and have not had any issues since.

u/Talwyn_Wize · 3 pointsr/oculus

I use this one, and it is recommended as well. Works brilliantly for me. :)

u/[deleted] · 3 pointsr/oculus

There is something about USB bus capacity and too many sensors, apparently if you have a certain configuration you can push the range further than others.
This card is recommended on most configuration guides

Each port has its own bus at 5 gbps so each sensor is receiving maximum signal for long wires.

u/Chotus84 · 3 pointsr/oculus

Only certant usb3.0 controllers are supported you may need to invest in the recomended usb3.0 pcie expansion slot prob the one with 4 separate controllers one per slot as it seems none of yours are compatible. I can only remember the inateck one but im sure someone will post the other

I think it may have been this starteck with 4 separate channels

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZEA2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_nG-AzbD2S290K

u/port53 · 3 pointsr/virtualreality

> Depending on your computer, you may have to upgrade your motherboard

That's incredibly unlikely. For a start, if you have a CPU fast enough to handle VR then you have at least PCI-E 2 and almost certainly PCI-E 3. Given that, you only need a spare PCI 1x slot and you can add this card for $46 to give you 4 more USB 3 ports and 500MB/s (4Gb/s) of bandwidth with PCI-E 2, double that with PCI-E 3. More than enough.

If you have a PCI 4x slot free then you can get this monster card which also has 4 USB 3 ports on it, except, they are all on individual USB controllers that don't share bandwidth with each other, and a max 2000MB/s (16Gb/s) (again, double for PCI-E 3) of throughput, so you could connect all 3 cameras to just this card and it would function just fine.

u/maxcovergold · 3 pointsr/oculus

I had endless problems with USB. Problem is it's different for everyone, many are fine with just their Motherboard's.


What I can tell you, if you want to run extension cables, the money no object solution (the only thing that go everything working acceptably for me) is the following:


Startech PEXUSB3S44V

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00HJZEA2S


Also, found many of the recommended cables hit and miss but Ugreen's have been excellent. Always use the shortest you can.


For 2m I have these on one sensor and one on the Rift itself:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00P0ES0YE


I also have 1m and 3m version on my other two sensors.


To go with the 2m extension to the Rift (only if needed obvious) I used (again Ugreen):

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00A30FLE2


Best of luck. Look forward to seeing you in there

u/Crowster · 3 pointsr/oculus

I fixed a majority of my issues by installing one of these into a PCIE x16 slot, and plugging all three of my sensors, as well as the rift itself, into it. It's a bit pricey, but it did the trick beautifully.

Still get the sensor jump when turning around. I haven't noticed any significant change to my guardian location or my height, but those still may decide to plague me.

Previously everything was plugged into my motherboard (all 3.0) and worked, more or less, perfectly until the patch. Don't know why it worked before when, honestly, I should have been taxing my USB controller, or why the patch broke it, but the above card has made things great.

u/jshatxmscl · 3 pointsr/unRAID

Use this $80 Startech card if it isn't outside your budget. Most USB cards have a single controller with multiple ports on a hub. This one has a separate controller/bus for each of the four USB ports. That would allow you to assign them to separate VMs. Also, it great for an Oculus Rift, as the sensors can overwhelm a single USB bus.

u/jfalc0n · 3 pointsr/ValveIndex

Yes, PCI-E USB cards do exist. I have an earlier motherboard with USB 3.0 ports; however, none of them worked for my original Vive's camera. It wasn't until I purchased an Inatek card that I was actually able to use it.

I actually used the card as a dedicated connection for the HMD because it didn't seem to play nice with all the other 'stuff' I had plugged in.

u/Dolby_Bypass · 3 pointsr/oculus
u/JanS19 · 3 pointsr/Vive

This is the one I am using (I intentionally got the chord-free version...so you don't have to connect it with your PSU...PCI-express slot is enough).

I bought it on german Amazon...but it is the exact same card (cordfree version with 2x USB 3.0).

After you installed the Card, first test both ports with a cheap USB-stick (just to be sure they are both healthy, and won't give you a short circuit..).

u/mahkra26 · 3 pointsr/homelab

I bought a 24-bay supermicro 2u case with an old AMD motherboard in it and gutted it into a JBOD array with the help of a few small adapters, like so:

  • There's these (with nothing to remove thankfully) on ebay right now: case
  • Install this in place of a motherboard: JBOD module
  • you'll need is a 8087 to 8088 adapter
  • You might need some 8087-8087 cables

    Topology is: SAS expander backplane top and bottom ports (ignore middle) to the two internal ports of the low profile adapter via two 8087 cables, then a standard e-SAS (8088) cable to the LSI 9207-8e in my server from the external ports.

    This has worked out fabulously for me.

    For added comfort (aka noise and power consumption), I removed the stock dual power supply that the 2u case included and replaced it with the guts of a 230w atx power supply, since I don't have dual sources. That cut the power draw down by ~80w or so. I also replaced the fans with much quieter ones (standard ~50 CFM 80mm units) and then improved airflow by taping over holes with masking tape, and using a thick paperboard to block other areas - the main purpose being to force the airflow through the drive bays.


    Edit:
    If you prefer LFF drives, there are 12-bay 3.5" already assembled with all the necessary parts from ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/222338813833
u/seizedengine · 3 pointsr/homelab

You can also buy adapters if you have trouble finding a card like the 9207-4i4e

SFF-8087 vs SFF-8088 do the same thing, just SFF-8088 (external) are larger and much more durable. So converting between them is easy and safe.

https://www.amazon.com/CableDeconn-SFF-8088-SFF-8087-Adapter-bracket/dp/B00PRXOQFA/ref=pd_cp_147_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00PRXOQFA&pd_rd_r=GE4FNVAZ8Q0AGPSFF88G&pd_rd_w=88BoN&pd_rd_wg=kiVIF&psc=1&refRID=GE4FNVAZ8Q0AGPSFF88G

u/gilesinator · 3 pointsr/AskBattlestations

Are you looking for one for a laptop or desktop? If its a desktop you could just get a PCI USB Expansion, but it would be in the back obviously..

If you want something like the picture, you could try this

u/schmee8 · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

aaand i found a better price for the card on amazon ($16.50)

u/tuxubuntu · 3 pointsr/VFIO

For USB, you should find a device using the Renesas uPD720201 chipset as it is known to work with hot reset properly, unlike most others on the market. I use this one and it's flawless.

Otherwise, you should know about the architectural quirks of Threadripper that result in some limitations on how you can assign its resources, which I discussed here.

u/Jaerin · 3 pointsr/WindowsMR

You have PCI-E slots. Nothing really has PCI slots anymore. This is the one I just ordered for my Odyssey even though my MB does have 3.0 USB ports they don't work with the Odyssey.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011LZY20G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/clupean · 3 pointsr/buildapc

There should be 2 header connectors (2 usb ports for each). If your computer case didn't use them, buy this. If you're willing to give up a pci slot, buy this.

u/ShortThug · 3 pointsr/StreetFighter
u/spider-borg · 3 pointsr/techsupportgore

How do you know how old the machine is? I built a computer a few years ago that still has PS2 ports. But it also had USB.

And if it doesn’t have USB in this day and age then you can surely add a USB expansion card for $10 on Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000JFJZGG/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1524067867&sr=8-2-fkmr1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=pci+usb+-“pci-e

u/dishwasherlove · 3 pointsr/cade

From memory it has something to do with the manufacturer of the USB port.

http://forums.steampowered.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2802679

apparently this works... but you need a PCI slot:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JFJZGG

u/drashna · 3 pointsr/DataHoarder

That's not a bad system, but both the controller and backplane are SAS1. You'd need to upgrade if you plan on using any drive larger than 2TB.

That said, if you're goign to get a replacement controller, just get one of these, it's cheaper and doesn't require any flashing (it's the same card, but not OEM).

And you'd need a replacement backplane. Like this one.

u/cjalas · 3 pointsr/homelab

Cables: 2x of these: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Internal-SFF-8087-Breakout/dp/B012BPLYJC/

SAS/SATA Controller Card: https://www.amazon.com/SAS9211-8I-8PORT-Int-Sata-Pcie/dp/B002RL8I7M/

You might find it on eBay for less. Just posting the Amazon links for clarity.

Plug the card into a free PCI-e slot on your mobo.

Plug the Mini SAS SFF-8087 connectors into the two ports on the HBA card.

Plug the SATA connectors into the back of your 5-drive hotswap bay cage.

Insert the HDDs into the hotswap trays (if it uses trays).

Turn things on. Bob's your uncle.

P.S. if you want PCI-e 3.0 version of the HBA card, you'll need to look for "LSI 93xxx" versions of the card. They're more expensive. Also, some others go for different manufacturer cards. I prefer LSI brand.

If you just want to RAID the whole thing, there are cheaper alternatives, but hardware level RAID HBA cards suck IMHO. With this type of HBA SAS/SATA Controller, you can basically pass-through the drives straight to your computer, and they'll show up as individual drives. Later you can then RAID them via software, or not.

u/Skoden · 3 pointsr/unRAID

>M1015 IBM card

So something more like this: https://www.amazon.com/SAS9211-8I-8PORT-Int-Sata-Pcie/dp/B002RL8I7M

u/puma987 · 3 pointsr/PleX

I've used pcie sata expanders with mixed success, sometimes the hard drives would disappear and reappear on a reboot, you definitely don't want that to happen on a raid setup. An HBA flashed to IT mode with breakout cables works really well, I use it in my server and it is rock solid.

HBA

Cable

u/NewYearNewAccount_ · 3 pointsr/buildapc

LSI 9211-8I 8PORT Int 6GB Sata+sas Pcie 2.0

Get a card like this and you can add plenty of drives. Note: you can find these much cheaper on eBay and often times will include a couple sas-to-4-sata adapter cables Also bare in mind they come in two flavors. One is raid-controller mode and the second is a simple expansion. But you can change that depending on how you plan to use it.

Consider a cheap SSD for your boot drive. Not necessary considering your needs but booting from an HDD gives me a migraine :)

u/jamalstevens · 3 pointsr/DataHoarder

Noise level is acceptable, I mean it's got quite a few fans in it, but you can mod it with noctuas if so desired, which makes it quiet as heck.

I bought this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002RL8I7M, but you can get one (not this same model but the same chipset so they just flash the 9211 firmware to it) pretty darn cheap on ebay pre-flashed to IT mode (here's an example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-H310-6Gbps-SAS-HBA-w-LSI-9211-8i-P20-IT-Mode-for-ZFS-FreeNAS-unRAID/162834659601)

u/completion97 · 3 pointsr/DataHoarder
  • Drivepool and snapraid are usable with an arbitrary amount disks and disk sizes and its very easy to add more drives. Tomorrow I could decide to add a random drive and everything would be setup in under 5 minutes.
  • Also both drivepool and snapraid are usable with drives that have existing data. Just point snapraid at a used drive and it will incorporate it into the parity. With drivepool you add it to the drive, stop the drivepool service, go to the new drive in explorer, show hidden files, there will be a folder called PoolPart*, move the files into that folder, start the service. You can still store files not in the PoolPart folder, they just won't show up in the pooled drive.
  • Drivepool's duplication is uneeded and inferior to snapraid parity. Drivepool just duplicates everything while snapraid creates 1+ parity disks. How many parity disks you create determines how many drives can fail before you lose data. So instead of losing 1/2 of you space with drivepool you can only lose 1/5 if you use one parity disk.
  • Note on snapraid: Its best used on drives storing large files that change rarely. Also its not RAID, which means its not real time redundancy and if you lose a drive you will have down time. I have a task setup to run snapraid everyday to sync any changes I made. So if a drive fails I'll lose at most a days worth of stuff. Also if you aren't a CLI person look into elucidate. Its a GUI for snapraid. snapraid is very intuitive to setup just by editing the config file but I still like the GUI to run the different tasks.
  • I still use drivepool even though I don't use the duplication because it pools my disks. I mounted all my drives to a folder instead of a letter (just so they don't show up in explorer). Then I added them to a pool. Now I can access my all my media drives from one drive letter. Then I pointed snapraid to the individual drive mount points.
  • I bought this HBA (Host Bus Adapter). So far been exactly what I wanted. It has SAS ports on it so you'll need some breakout cables to connect SATA drives. This card allows for 8 SATA drives to be connected which I think is more than your average SATA card. I was able to plug the card in, it did all the drive install stuff automatically, and I was able to use it.

    edit: added more info
u/BWC_semaJ · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Now what is interesting, there are adapters that take a PCI express port and convert it to Sata 3s which I highly recommend looking into.

I'll just link an example. Please do your own research on this though. I might link you one that might not work for your motherboard. http://www.amazon.com/Crest-Port-SATA-PCI-Express-SY-PEX40039/dp/B005B0A6ZS

Also, it might be a bit expensive. There are a lot of these adapters out there so best of luck.

EDIT: Another thing to look into is if you can have the OS on one of these adapters. I personally don't have that much experience with them so I don't know as of now but I'm sure if you do a bit of research you could find the answer.

u/MerlinQ · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

That would be because your motherboard does not support USB 3, or at least only supports it on the I/O panel.

You could use something like this to adapt it to the usb 2.0 9-pin header, if you have one extra (Obviously, the case's ports will only work at usb 2 speeds):
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Female-Motherboard-Adapter-Converter/dp/B009SJCPO8

Or you could get a USB 3.0 PCIe expansion card with an internal header (provided you have a spare PCIe 2.0 or 3.0 slot of any size) like this, and have the advantage of having fully functional USB 3.0 speeds:
https://www.amazon.com/Anker%C2%AE-Uspeed-Express-20-pin-Connector/dp/B007SJGGAE

Note: I have not used either of these products, but they are well rated on amazon, with a good number of reviews, and both are "Fulfilled by Amazon" for easy returns if needed. I am familiar with Anker, from good experiences with many of their other products, so there is that, if you go for an expansion card.

Edit: Do note that the cheaper (by far) 1x PCIe cards will only provide one port's worth of full bandwidth (using all the ports at once will share the bandwidth), though it is rare for most people to use more than that, as it would take an external ssd to saturate, or multiple external disk drives.

u/jerkstore4 · 3 pointsr/buildapc

No, they are probably USB 3.0 connections only. You can buy an adapter so that the USB 3.0 ports will hook up to the 2.0 headers on the mobo. Obviously they'll be USB 2.0 ports in the front if hooked up that way.

If you wanted USB 3.0, you could find a PCI/PCIe add-on card with internal headers. You could then connect your front USB 3.0 ports to that card directly.

u/SkySorcerer · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

No, that's PCIe x4. Try one of these.

u/nealbscott · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Assuming you have PCI express 3 in your computer expansion slots, Get a card like this:

LSI Logic SAS 9207-8i Storage Controller LSI00301 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0085FT2JC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xQ-jDbVZ3R30V

It will feed data connections to 8 sata drives all by itself.

It has 2 sff-8087 ports. Then get the special 'forward breakout' cable. Well two really. One end goes into the sff-8087 port and then it splits out into four sata data cables. Which go into the hard drives of course.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012BPLYJC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2T-jDbHFP0FHC

The card can support hardware raid, but fewer and fewer folks do that. After all, hardware raid usually requires identical drives, and us folks at home often have a motley collection of drives of various sizes, speeds, and geometries. So software raid it is. In linux, folks often use freenas or unraid. In windows 10 you can use something called 'storage spaces'. Using raid will allow you to treat all those drives like one device... And have some tolerance for failure (which happens with so many)

Next question.. does your case have room? Do you have enough power connectors?

u/zirus1701 · 3 pointsr/PleX

You get a PCI-express SAS controller to install. They come in 2 and 4 port varieties, and you get SAS to SATA cables (turns one SAS port to 4 SATA connectors) to plug into it to connect your hard drives. That could be 16 drives per card, a couple of PCI-Express slots and you'll have more SATA connectors than you have room for hard drives.

Edit: I'm in no way recommending this specific one, but here is one example of what I'm talking about:

https://www.amazon.com/LSI-Logic-9207-8i-Controller-LSI00301/dp/B0085FT2JC/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=SAS+controller&qid=1567797015&s=gateway&sr=8-4 (it's a 2 port variety).

and for cables:

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Internal-SFF-8087-Breakout/dp/B012BPLYJC/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=SAS+SATA+cables&qid=1567797027&s=gateway&sr=8-3

u/nerplederple · 3 pointsr/freenas

If it's just a data drive and you're not looking to do anything super fancy with it. These work great.

However, be advised that, because the card is PCI-E x1, if you were to actually plug in 4 hard drives or SSDs, you're gonna run smack against bandwidth limitations if you start trying to hammer I/O on the drives connected to the card all at once.

I have this exact card as well as the 2-port PCI-E x2 slot version in use and they work very well for supplementing on-board headers when you're a few short.

I would not attempt to use these cards to run HDDs/SSDs that were going to be datastores for VMs nor as the HBA for something like FreeNAS. If your goal is along those lines, you'd be much better off looking for an HBA like the 9207-8i. You can get those way, way cheap on ebay, and then you just need the correct cables for 'em.

u/mattbuford · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I've been doing this for many years. I just run a regular Linux distro and do not run a special NAS OS. My router is the same way - just a regular Linux distro.

My general goals are low power and cheap with lots of drives. I don't generally care about size or performance.

Components:

Case: I have a full tower case I've been using for 20-ish years. For you, anything you want with 5.25" bays. Here's my old one, which is huge, but has a ton of 5.25" bays:

https://www.anandtech.com/show/383

SATA hotswap bays: I've been using 3 of these for 10+ years to give me 9 bays:

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Drive-Trayless-Mobile-Backplane/dp/B000NMAZU0

3 of those gives me 9 hotswap bays. However, one thing I don't like about them is the small 40mm fans on the back. Those things seem to last 2-3 years, and with 2*3=6 of them in my case, there' always one dying and making horrible grinding noises (or completely stopped). Even worse, replacing them requires removing the bay from my case, then using a screwdriver to take apart the back of the bay. Other than the fan, the bays work great.

/u/bigdizizzle posted this and and if I were doing it over again, I'd probably give this a try hoping the larger fan dies less often (and half the fans means less failures per year).

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817995111

Motherboard + CPU: I have this:

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157513

I went with this because it is a moderately powerful system (quad core with decent IO), has 3 PCIe slots (all are 2.0 1x, but one is physically 16x), USB3.0 for any external drives I might want to add, it uses normal desktop RAM, and it is very low power. The completed system, with an SSD but no hard drives, pulls 14 watts. There are smalled mITX versions, but those only give you one PCIe slot plus you have to use SODIMMs, so I suggest going with the mATX versions. Best of all, the price was right at $70 for the motherboard+CPU. Oh, and it is fanless. Some options I looked at had 40mm fans on the motherboard/CPU and past experience (my previous NAS build was with Atom330 motherboards) taught me that 40mm fans on the motherboard die or make horrible sounds quickly.

But, that motherboard is now old. Some newer, similar options, which I have not fully researched are:

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157729

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157807

My J1900 and the 2 above CPUs compared:

https://www.cpubenchmark.net/compare/Intel-Celeron-J1900-vs-Intel-Celeron-J3455-vs-Intel-Celeron-J4105/2131vs2875vs3159

Weirdly, the last and best one (J4105) is limited to 8GB RAM, while the lower end J3455 and my old J1900 both handle 16GB. I don't know what's up with that.

Biostar makes a nearly identical J1900 board called the J1900MH2 and I bought one of those too (for $50 open box). It's basically identical, but hotswap does not work on the two internal SATA ports. So, I used that one for my router and the Asrock (with working hotswap) became my NAS. So, beware of Biostar BIOS possibly not supporting hotswap on the internal ports. I'd stick to Asrock.

More SATA ports: The motherboard comes with 2, and then I added 3 of these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AZ9T3OU/

This isn't high performance, but we're talking PCIe 2.0 1x anyway. Hard drives tend to be slow anyway. These plus the internal ports gives me 14 SATA ports. These have proven reliable under Linux.

End result:

I have a NAS with 14 SATA ports, 9 hotswap bays, gigabit Ethernet, an OK (not great, not terrible) CPU, and I pull only 14 watts plus the hard drives. The USB 3.0 lets me connect a bunch of USB hard drives too.

Currently, I have 7 3.5" drives in there. I also have 9 external drives connected by USB 3.0. Those external drives are for backups, and they power on every night, perform a backup, and then power off. Those USB enclosures contain all my old junk hard drives from old computers. There is even a PATA drive still in use there. The backups array is where my old drives go to be run until they die.

My system has enough ram and CPU to run some VMs. I have one VM running a torrentbox that VPNs itself to a VPN provider, and anther VM running as a Bitcoin full node. Then, of course, the NAS is serving SMB to my regular PCs. This also runs as my "server" for various random things like MRTG, Munin, and so on.

Finally, I like that it is power efficient. That helps heat generation too.

Just within the past couple weeks, I got one of these:

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817198068

I haven't installed it yet though. This is the same idea as the 3.5" bays, but for 6 hotswap 2.5" drives (SSDs) into a single 5.25" bay. My boot drive array is 5x1TB drives (RAID6) that are at 84334 hours of runtime (9.6 years) so I'm thinking it's probably about time to replace them - with SSDs. I also have 2x8TB drives in RAID1 used for mass storage (videos, etc).

Just as a suggestion, what I did was put /boot on a USB thumb drive and then my OS right on the main RAID6 array. That way I get great high reliability for my OS drive, but the thumb drive is there to take care of booting and initramfs (required to mdadm + LVM before trying to mount /). I didn't want to put /boot on a hard drive, since they're much more likely to fail than a USB flash drive sitting there almost never getting written to (only on kernel upgrades).

OS + old storage

cat /proc/mdstat

Personalities : [raid0] [raid1] [raid10] [raid6] [raid5] [raid4] <br />
md127 : active raid6 sdb[2] sda[0] sdc[1] sdg[4] sdd[3]<br />
      2930279232 blocks level 6, 64k chunk, algorithm 2 [5/5] [UUUUU]<br />
# df -h /<br />
Filesystem                     Size  Used Avail Use% Mounted on<br />
/dev/mapper/storage1-storage1  2.5T  2.2T  194G  92% /<br />



New mass storage:

btrfs fi show /storage/

Label: 'storage'  uuid: a6864940-727c-4740-a20d-1f37a202006b<br />
        Total devices 2 FS bytes used 4.54TiB<br />
        devid    1 size 7.28TiB used 4.74TiB path /dev/sde<br />
        devid    6 size 7.28TiB used 4.74TiB path /dev/sdf<br />


Backups pile of old drives:

btrfs fi show /backups/

Label: 'backups'  uuid: 81f5c405-9864-4178-b964-ed60149caa82<br />
        Total devices 9 FS bytes used 3.79TiB<br />
        devid    1 size 931.51GiB used 903.00GiB path /dev/sdk<br />
        devid    2 size 931.51GiB used 904.00GiB path /dev/sdl<br />
        devid    4 size 111.76GiB used 86.00GiB path /dev/sdq<br />
        devid    5 size 465.76GiB used 440.00GiB path /dev/sdp<br />
        devid    6 size 465.76GiB used 440.03GiB path /dev/sdm<br />
        devid    7 size 1.82TiB used 1.79TiB path /dev/sdn<br />
        devid    8 size 2.73TiB used 2.70TiB path /dev/sdi<br />
        devid    9 size 465.76GiB used 440.00GiB path /dev/sdj<br />
        devid   10 size 931.51GiB used 22.00GiB path /dev/sdo<br />


My router, as mentioned earlier, uses the Biostar version of the same MB as my NAS, but obviously without the SATA bays or the SATA cards. One of the PCIe slots has a dual port gig Ethernet card. This lets me do dual WAN. Then, boot is a cheap 120 GB SSD. Total power usage is 14 watts.

u/Sl0rk · 3 pointsr/unRAID

This is the one I use and it works fine - https://www.amazon.com/IO-Crest-Controller-Non-Raid-SI-PEX40064/dp/B00AZ9T3OU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1543180924&amp;amp;sr=8-3&amp;amp;keywords=IOCrest+SI-PEX40064

Although it costs a lot more that it should be for some reason. I paid $15 for it on Newegg.

u/waraxx · 3 pointsr/PleX

how hot are they running?

if you lack sata data ports then you can add some more by buying a sata expantion card.

a card such as this one should do the trick.

Sata expantion card

I have two of these running smoothly on ubuntu 16.04 and should be no problem for windows. worked out of the box for me.

u/Duamerthrax · 3 pointsr/hackintosh

Ok, it's been a while since I researched this. I can tell you that all the cards work though. If I remember correctly, this card is the best for 4 internal ports. This one if you only have a 1x slot available. And this one if you also want some eSATA ports

I have all these cards in my Hackintosh I'm typing on right now without any drivers. They all support hot swap as well.

u/p3rfect3nemy · 3 pointsr/oculus

Just a heads up on the listed USB card. Looks to be some form of a NEC Renesas chipset. You may have compatibility issues unless someone has tried this specific card and has let you know it will work. If possible I would consider the one linked below as it has the Fresco usb controller that is supported.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=psdc_229185_t2_B01MQ5R7I1

u/Combatxlemming · 3 pointsr/oculus

Do you mean this one? Inateck Superspeed 4 Ports PCI-E to USB 3.0 Expansion Card - Interface USB 3.0 4-Port Express Card Desktop with 15 pin SATA Power Connector, [ Include with A 4pin to 2x15pin Cable + A 15pin to 2x 15pin SATA Y-Cable ] https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TJ0lDb8B0TC1Z

u/tepattaja · 3 pointsr/oculus

I fixed mine by buing Inateck 4 port USB PCI-E card. Do not buy any USB 3 extension card. Not every driver work. I bought SilverStone USB 3 and it didn't work at all. Then bough the inateck ( ebay ships from german (worldwide) Amazon ships from german (not worldwide) )

The driver name needs to be "Fresco Logic" otherwise the extension doesn't work. The inateck card is oculus' recommended device for rift.

u/NotTheLips · 3 pointsr/oculus

One of these will likely solve the issue for you. Assuming it's not a laptop, of course.

u/Nipz-TF2 · 3 pointsr/oculus

A usb controller card, you might have enough ports on your motherboard but if it's all handled by one controller it can't run 3 sensors + headset.
https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM

u/WormSlayer · 3 pointsr/oculus

Not sure about best, but this is the one Oculus recommend, I have been using it with no issues.

u/good_guy_old_gregg · 3 pointsr/oculus

https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM

Edit: see other comments, some say these cards are flaky or even catch fire in one case. It works for me, but some people prefer the Startech cards, they are just more expensive.

u/ProPuke · 3 pointsr/oculus

Are you sure it's running out of power and not usb bandwidth?

If it's bandwidth you might want to split the devices between usb controllers, and possibly connect some of the cameras to usb 2, instead.

Computers tend to have 2 accessible usb controllers - one on the back and one on the front (which are shared by all of the ports attached to them). Each can only support a maximum amount of bandwidth at once. If the cameras are plugged into usb 2 ports they'll run in low data mode and use significantly less, so you may want to plug one of your cameras into a usb 2 port instead, or perhaps attach the headset or a camera onto a front port to spread the load.

The only other cure for bandwidth issues to buy a usb extender card (Oculus officially recommend this one). Buying a hub won't help, as they're still coming from the same controller on your machine and you still have the same bandwidth limits.

Alternatively, if it is just power, then yeah - you'll need a powered hub.

u/Peazuz · 3 pointsr/oculus
u/A_Nice_Meat_Sauce · 3 pointsr/oculus

I had this same issue -- picked up an X52 Pro a couple weeks ago and it wouldn't play nice with my intel controllers &amp; Windows 7. I'd read that you could use W10's generic drivers but...as we've also read around these parts, Oculus recommends keeping your drivers up to date.

In the end, I bit the bullet and bought one of these. I already had plenty of Oculus certified USB 3 ports but...now I have more! And this card was recommended by them anyway.

I did eventually end up upgrading to W10 anyway last week. It runs quite well and gave me some time to work out any kinks before my Rift arrives. Some people have had a little trouble using the upgrade option instead of a clean install, but mine went fine.

u/killhntin · 3 pointsr/oculus

&gt; Highpoint 1144D

This one? https://www.amazon.com/HighPoint-4-Port-PCI-Express-RocketU-1144D/dp/B015CQ8DCS

Then why do they recommend this cheaper USB cards in their official blog post as well?

$24 vs $109 is quiet a big difference and I feel like there shouldn't really be a need to buy another extra hardware besides the extra camera (and possibly extension cables) to get roomscale. This is making me furious!

u/Skulder · 3 pointsr/computers

You have USB hardware made by VIA, and that's incompatible. You'll need to buy an addon PCI board with USB-3 ports on it.

Something like this - I would suggest the type that has a power plug, so it doesn't draw power for the USB devices through the PCI slot, since not all motherboards live perfectly up to the standards for power requirements.

The board you choose must also have a chipset that is approved by Oculus. Looking at their homepage, it has to use the "Fresco Logic FL1100EX chipset."

Actually, on their support page they link specifically to a card that is approved.

----

One more thing - notice the choice of words. "The Nvidia GTX 960 meets or exceeds our inimum system requirements."

That means that if it was any slower, it couldn't run at all - but it doesn't meet their recommended requirements, and it's nowhere near their optimal requirements.

So it's not going to run optimally, or even like recommended.

u/FantasyFilth · 3 pointsr/oculus

Ah I see. Yeah mine are both using usb 3.0.

"Using USB 2.0 ports degrades tracking reliability between the headset and sensor." According to Oculus support anyway.

But here's the link to the card they recommend

https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM

u/PandahOG · 3 pointsr/oculus

Its an USB issue. I know, you have probably tried different usb ports ranging from 2.0 to 3.0. You would switch it and it would work just fine for a few days then you are back to reseating the hdmi plug.

There are 2 solutions:

  1. Buy this and install it into your machine.

  2. Be cheap and buy this

    Now option 2 should not work but it does. I had the same exact problem as you. I tried everything and it got to the point the only other option was buying a usb 3.0 pci e card. However, I had option 2 laying around and realized I needed more usb 3.0 ports for my other stuff so I figured why not try my rift. Its been 3 months and I havent had to reseat the hdmi cord or try different usb ports.

    Only issues i have now is what looks like white static whenever it is dark in the game or loading something, but it is all gone when the game starts. Also, sound. My rift sound will cut off after 30 minutes of playing so I have to re-enable it via sound manager.

    Hope this helps because I know how frustrating it was.
u/bifurk8 · 3 pointsr/oculus

Not from your motherboard, from the power supply, with the included cables/adapters. There are pictures illustrating how to plug it in on the Amazon product page here.

u/WhiteZero · 3 pointsr/oculus

What you linked to is a USB Hub, which is not recommended. You'll want an actual USB Expansion Card, like this one.

u/Sethos88 · 3 pointsr/oculus

Oculus themselves link to this Amazon page, that has TWO versions. 2 slots and 4 slots; http://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-E-Expansion/dp/B00FPIMICA and even say you just need the Fresco Logic FL1100EX chipset.

EDIT: I'm also perplexed by your argument in this case. If someone has an SLI setup, with no compatible on-board ports, their best option is to buy a new $1000 prebuilt rather than say, upgrade their motherboard for 1/4th - 1/5th the price?

Most / all high-end motherboards today are full PCIe, 3.0 and 2.0. I could fit 3 of these expansion cards into my current SLI setup.

u/kylebisme · 3 pointsr/ValveIndex

Yep, I use this one for exactly that reason. Works great as long as you use the drivers automatically installed by Windows instead of the ones from the manufacture.

u/xamomax · 3 pointsr/Vive

I also have Vive + Skype + Logitech camera (I think the same model as you).

What I found is that it was intermittently causing conflicts. The best fix was to unplug the Logitech when using Vive, and unplug the Vive USB when using the Logitech.

If you don't want to do that, then what I have found to be helpful, but not a perfect fix, is to make sure the two devices are on separate USB host controllers (So if Vive is on your front ports, put the camera on your back ports). This seemed to make things more reliable for me, but I would still have some random issues.

Another item that seemed to make it more reliable to me, though also not a complete fix, was to install an additional USB card to free up USB resources. With USB 3.0, it's easy to run out of USB resources, which will typically result in a momentary message from Windows when a USB device is first plugged in (And you may not see that message in time if you are bent over trying to see your ports). That can cause some USB devices to misbehave. I bought and installed this USB card, and have not had an issue since. (Using a USB hub did NOT fix such issues.)

u/Fribbtastic · 3 pointsr/gaming

&gt; Ok here : My USBS are fucked up

There are PCIxE USB adapters so you don't have to buy a new motherboard just do have new USB ports

&gt; and in the future i want to have a better GPU CPU .. if i have a better motherboard already thatll save a lot of time

That is the Problem, you have an LGA1155 Socket on the board at the moment but newer CPUs have LGA2066 (Intel) or Socket AM4 (AMD Ryzon). If you want to upgrade your motherboard now to another Socket you won't be able to use your old CPU and need to upgrade too.

So you won't save any time at all. You just spend more money because you buy a new motherboard with 2015 "technology" and slap the same CPU on it.

&gt; If motherboards are that irrelevant why do they make "Better" ones then.

Because those are made for different kind of use cases. We are at a time in which even in gaming there is no noticeable performance increase if you switch a normal Motherboard with a gaming motherboard. Some have other ports others have different ports.

&gt; JUST HELP ME FIND ONE

Why tho? if you are so adamant to buy a new Motherboard you probably won't listen to what anyone is saying here. And since you have no clue on what you are doing because all the necessary information are listed in my posts.

Don't do it man .. just don't do it. it isn't worth it.

You upgrade your PC to play games or do stuff your current setup can't handle not because you want to be more up to date ... especially not contradicting the statement to be up to date but then still use an old socket.

u/karlaxxx · 3 pointsr/oculus

The Rift S in a pita regarding the USB port..... On my previous setup (GTX 1070) I had to buy a pcie USB card for the headset to work, it was this one:

[5 ports+ 20pin]Inateck PCI Carte USB 3.0 5 Ports USB 3.0 connecteur à 20 broches avec connecteur 15 broches Sata, un 4 broches 2x15pin câble, une Y-câble prise SATA https://www.amazon.fr/dp/B00FPIMJEW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GJCODbY5RJEW9

Since I upgraded my gpu to a RTX 2080 super, I use the USB-C connector onboard and it's working great indeed....

Hope that helps!

u/SovereignGW · 3 pointsr/oculus

I bought a headset and realized my USB 3.0 ports weren't properly compatible (MSI 970 Gaming mobo). For whatever reasons drivers weren't compatible (Oculus compatibility check tool on their site can tell you if yours is compatible or not). You need 2 USB 3.0 ports for the sensors, I plugged my headset into a 2.0 which is fine.

For your reference this is the card I bought: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Inateck-Express-Connector-Controller-Internal/dp/B00FPIMJEW/

I also bought 8gb of RAM so I would have 16gb... Just in case. Most people already have that though.

u/Rafport · 3 pointsr/Vive

It's a very old issue, there are plenty of those posts in the first months of Vive avaliability (this one for example).

Is not related to 3.0, it depends from some USB controllers than doesn't work as they should with the Vive (an additional USB controller could solve this for a cheap price). Being 3.0 and 2.0 slots connected to different controllers, this explain why moving the Vive could solve the problem, where obviously would be better to use a 3.0 controller without issues.

u/Hotrian · 3 pointsr/HTCVive

If you are having controller pairing issues, there's a good chance your motherboard's USB chipset isn't up to par. You'd be surprised how many people are having USB issues with their brand new top of the line motherboards. Did you try getting the Inateck PCI-Express USB Controller as recommended by Valve? I would first try every USB port on your system to see if you can find one that works. Be sure to close SteamVR, swap ports, wait for drivers to finish installing, then boot up SteamVR again and see if it works. I've found that several of my USB ports work better for the Vive than others, and I assume it is due to the USB bandwidth on that chipset, which varies depending on which other USB devices I have plugged into that same line on different ports.

  • Link to SteamVR Troubleshooting Article where Valve endorses the Inateck 2-Port USB3.0 PCI-Express Card, it's found under Headset &gt; New USB PCI-Express Card.

  • Link to Inateck 2-Port USB3.0 PCI-Express Card on Amazon, it is currently $18.99. Also link to the 5 port version that I picked up and I'm hoping works just as well :).

    One thing to keep in mind is that the Inateck PCI-Express controller does require a SATA power cable from your Power Supply, though the Inateck PCI-Express controller does come with a Molex-To-SATA adapter and a SATA-Y-Splitter so you need either a Molex power cable or a SATA extension cable if you don't have a spare SATA power cable.
u/cvall91 · 3 pointsr/buildapc

I would say so. I bought one as my new motherboard came with a lot less USB but more 3.1 and type c connectors which I don't have. So I bought a 5 port PCI USB and it's been a perfect solution. I tried an external USB hub (non powered) but the problem is some of the externals need more power than the hub provides so they didn't work.

This is the one I have but seems no longer available on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPIMJEW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1

u/Alexis_Evo · 3 pointsr/burstcoinmining

It isn't the hubs fault, it's mostly the USB consortium lying about the real world practical throughput of their technology for marketing purposes. Tom's HW has a good technical writeup on it, it's from 2012 but most of it still applies: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/usb-3-uas-turbo,3215.html

Ultimately you want no more than 3 drives per USB controller. PCI-e cards like this are ideal, as they contain 4 separate buses (allowing 12 total drives at ~120 MB speeds) https://www.amazon.com/Express-SuperSpeed-Adapter-Dedicated-Channels/dp/B00HJZEA2S/ref=sr_1_1

u/kjames7170 · 3 pointsr/burstcoinmining

This one reads 15 8TB drives for me in 36 seconds on Jminer. It has a Molex connection but seems to work pretty well without additional power. 3 powered hubs attached.

4 Port PCI Express (PCIe) SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Card Adapter w/ 4 Dedicated 5Gbps Channels - UASP - SATA / LP4 Power https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZEA2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_u5W5uiQEv2aZ6

u/Schadenfreude_ · 2 pointsr/oculus

&gt; a single PCI-E v2 lane only has enough bandwidth for one USB3 port, and a PCI-E v3 lane only has enough for 2

Right. I can only guess the Oculus devices won't all be equally bandwidth hungry. I'd expect the headset to be the biggest hog, and the 3d Positional Tracker and Oculus Touch somewhere behind (uneducated guess).
I plan on buying the card they recommend since I only have 2 USB3 ports on my mobo, and just to be safe dedicate 2 of the 7 ports for Oculus (PCI-E v3 lane), leaving the other ones unused.

u/oileak · 2 pointsr/oculus

Inateck PCI-E to USB 3.0 5-Port PCI Express Card and 15-Pin Power Connector, Mini PCI-E USB 3.0 Hub Controller Adapter, with Internal USB 3.0 20-PIN C https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FPIMICA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_EWhJf1l5AngGk


That's what I'm using and it's working great

u/linguisticabstractn · 2 pointsr/buildapc

You can get PCIe internal USB cards. Some of them have internal headers as well as external ports. Did a quick search and found this option that might work.

u/neuralzen · 2 pointsr/Vive

Hey, just to let you know, I think this is a problem with the ASUS Z710 series, as I have gone down the same road as you, and someone else mentioned also having the same problems with a Z710 series board. I know it isn't the Vive because it works with no issue on another box in the exact same room and set up. I'm thinking there is something with their USB and talking to the Link Box, and I'm hoping I can find something in the BIOS to tweak. I'd say hold onto it, and if you are really at the end of your rope, buy a different MB. I'll let you know if I figure anything out. EDIT: Also try uninstalling the Asus AI Suite if you have it installed, and Corsair Link...others said this helped, though it did not for me.

EDIT: Looks like a common solution is to get a USB PCIe card which uses a different USB host controller, as the ASMedia USB host controller on the asus Z170 boards is crap, and buggy. This is the recommended one.

u/kidshitstuff · 2 pointsr/WindowsMR

I'm actually using a USB 3.0 PCIe card already, have been since i got my WMR. This is it: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPIMICA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;th=1

During trouble shooting i'll often try using my mobos 3.0 port which doesn't change anything.

I haven't tried reinstalling the usb drivers and I'm honestley confused by it. Not sure what a controller is, am i reinstalling the driver for my USB 3.0 PCIe expansion card? Or for the HMD?

u/apollo_316 · 2 pointsr/oculus

OP and all affected by this: I also ran into this after the latest update. It clearly introduced some bugs. That said, here is everything I did, and I'm finally playing Beat Saber on my Rift with 0 (read again, 0) lag. (That said, there is certainly still a bug where if a box is hit the wrong direction, or with the wrong saber color, sometimes the controller does not vibrate)

I am listing below WHAT WORKED, and leaving out all the things I tried that didn't work..it's an exhausting list..cables, reseating the rift headset jack under the face mask..etc. This did not help me. Rift worked great in every other game.

  • Purchased an external USB 3 card to give the Rift headset (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPIMICA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) I ordered the one with the two internal USB ports too. Note: USB add-in card is not needed if your system already has enough USB channels to give the Rift and each sensor its own channel. Google USB channels for instructions on finding this out. ((If you have your controllers vibrating very lightly and you are using good batteries, THIS. This is why. You need a USB channel with nothing else on it for the Rift Headset. The Rift Sensors should each be on their own channels for best performance too, but can share the USB channel with other devices too.))
  • Turned off Night Light in Windows 10 Display settings. My problems manifested more at night and this, once known, was a very likely culprit
  • Placed each Rift Sensor on its own USB channel. I also unplug the mouse/keyboard and other peripherals during VR, because I have a Steelseries LED mouse/kb and they bugger up the USB channel with all the lighting.
  • Close out any unnecessary apps from the system tray.
  • If you use a USB extension to get a Rift sensor further away, make sure it's an ACTIVE USB extender. Passive, or normal, ones degraded my signal. This, and the Win10 Night Light are the biggest reasons I was getting Beat Saber lag. I have an Active cable on order and went back to no extension/both sensors in front of me for the time being.
  • Installed Oculus Tray Tool (https://www.reddit.com/r/oculus/comments/5okoju/oculus_tray_tool/) and set USB Standby to Disabled, among some other settings I can't recall. All the settings have to do with fine-tuning the VR experience, so poke around and see what works for you.
  • ***Disclaimer***: Editing the registry is NOT FOR THE FAINT OF HEART*** I changed the priority of the GPU for games using this guide. I've had no problems at all, but the registry is risky to mess with and I am unsure what effect this had with Beat Saber. I'm listing it only because Beat Saber runs perfectly now.Skip to the "Make some changes in your registry" section: https://www.windowscentral.com/how-ensure-best-vr-performance-your-pc

    Doing all of this, the noteworthy ones being Windows 10 Night Light being turned off, the USB add-in card/dedicated channel for the Rift headset USB, and the Oculus Tray Tool, my Beat Saber now runs flawlessly!! I moved up from Hard to Expert (and even Expert with Fast Song turned on) overnight purely as a result of this game running like it should now. I can actually hit what I see, and the game registers it.

    &amp;#x200B;

    Computer Setup:

  • Oculus Rift with 2 sensors (3rd sensor with USB active repeater/extension cable in the mail)
  • MSI MoBo with AMD RYZEN 7 1700X 8-Core 3.4 GHz
  • 16gb DDR3 RAM
  • MSI Gaming Z 2070 RTX GPU
  • Samsung 1tb SSD running only Oculus Games
  • SanDisk 128gb SSD for Windows 10 installation
  • Liquid cooler for CPU
  • 850w Power Supply

    My specs are overkill for VR and Rift (see: Robo Recall) worked fine with my MSI Nvidia 970 GPU too, but Beat Saber still lagged (after the latest update) until I made all the changes above. Beat Saber clearly has some bugs/compatibility problems to work out, and it seems the devs have more important things to do than fix these given how long it is between updates being released for PC. We're a forgotten lot. :( Perhaps the modding community will find a way to patch the game to actually fix these bugs.

    &amp;#x200B;

    I do hope that my tips help even one person out there also experiencing this issue. This game is what VR was for! If anybody has more tips please please please share them! Everybody should be able to enjoy this game as it was supposed to be!

    &amp;#x200B;

    edit: Corrected CPU specs in my Computer Setup
u/Handalaan · 2 pointsr/oculus

Pending you have an open PCI-E slot, there are USB 3.0 expansion cards that are compatible with the Rift for cheap. I got this one for ~$30.


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPIMICA

u/therealarod · 2 pointsr/oculus

Was having the same issues as many; tracking going wonky, unable to detect USB during setup, etc. Finally fixed mine!

This is the USB 3.0 card I'm using:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPIMICA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

I plugged the Rift S into the far right port (looking at the back of the PC). I moved my other USB peripherals to other ports.

I don't know if this was pure luck, but I had been fighting this for 2 days straight. I hope this helps someone else.

&amp;#x200B;

*Edit*: I got a few hours of sleep last night to think about this some more. On the Rift CV1, each sensor was a separate USB connection. But on the Rift S, all 5 sensors (the cameras) are going thru a single USB 3.0 connection, and I'm guessing this requires a fair bit more of bandwidth.

u/BlazeSC · 2 pointsr/WindowsMR

I ended up having to buy a usb 3.0 pcie card as the headset wouldn't work at all on the ASMedia 0.96 drivers.

u/pchadrow · 2 pointsr/oculus

I got one and had absolutely no luck with it so I returned it. I will admit that I did love the charging IQ ports. This was a couple months ago though. I think I saw somewhere that they had updated their drivers and work now but I'm not 100%. I went with this though: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPIMICA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1

edit: for sake of a timeline, my return history on Amazon shows I returned my Anker hub July 29

u/-Zextras- · 2 pointsr/oculus

I believe the 4 port card and the 5 port card are the same, just another port?

u/llamacek · 2 pointsr/OSVR

Really nice find! I'm assuming your computer is already bluetooth compatible?

If not, at least for me and others on the PSMoveService Google group, (Great place to ask questions and get help with troubleshooting) you have to have a bluetooth adapter to get the PSMove controllers to pair to your computer.

(I suggest this bluetooth adapter which is used by myself and others for the PSMove controllers)

(Don't forget that first time setup requires a micro USB cable for first time paring)

If so, just be aware that the Playstation Eye takes up a lot of USB bandwidth and you have to plan out where you plug in your devices very carefully for them to all track at the full 60fps.

I'd suggest downloading something like USBTreeView before starting as this will allow you to check your USB root hubs when plugging in your cameras and possibly bluetooth adapter.

Some things to keep in mind when setting this up are:

Try to isolate your cameras away from other high bandwidth devices on the same USB root hub, considering we're using an HMD with an IR camera that also takes up a lot of bandwidth so remember that too.

(This is what my USBTreeView looks like, make sure that your cameras are on USBs with the little H next to them meaning their high-speed.

("USB Composite Device - Camera" is the IR camera)

("ASUS USB-BT400" Is the bluetooth adapter)

"USB Composite Device - Audio, Camera" Is the Playstation Eye)

Most of the time the most cameras you'll be able to get away with are 2 cameras on one motherboard and the front panel USB connections included, unless you buy a PCI/PCI-E USB expansion card for more USBs and root hubs.

(PSMoveService reccomends the Inateck PCI-E to USB 3.0 5-Port

Most likely the controllers you bought were part of the older batches which were manufactured around 5-6 years ago when they first came out, so be sure to check the batteries and you can buy replacements here. (Although you have to open the controller up to access them)

Some of the newer controllers which were released with PSVR have their magnetometers disabled which are used for orientation in PSMoveService so be weary of that if their from the latest batch.

In conclusion, just follow videos like these (This and this) (You can just follow the PSMoveService portion of it) and for troubleshooting either resort to the comments of those videos, the offical Github documentation, post back here and I can try to help, or post in the Google group for help.

Aside from everything else good luck on setting it up and please excuse any grammatical errors you see in this post, it's over 3160 letters long.

u/brophyg4 · 2 pointsr/VFIO

I'm talking about something like this.

Inateck PCI-E to USB 3.0 (5 Ports) PCI Express Card and 15-Pin Power Connector, Red (KT5001) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FPIMJEW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_H9C6CbF4E3KYB

You would need 2, 1 for each guest. You can pass them through to each guest just like your graphics card.

BTW, I'm using the card I linked to above in my build running proxmox as the host and it works beautifully with both Windows and Linux.

u/KorYi · 2 pointsr/unRAID

I use a inateck kt5001 (5xUSB3, https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Express-15-Pin-Connector-KT5001/dp/B00FPIMJEW ), works like a dream (got xbox/steam controller and oculus rift). This is on my main rig running arch, but it shouldn't be any different on unraid.

u/eaterout · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Right?? It's weird, they changed it. The link used to go here. I guess the smaller one is cheaper so that might be why. they're both from the same company.

u/Bobsagetluvr · 2 pointsr/techsupport

This should work for you

Has 2 external USB ports, and a header for Front USB port.


Edit: This one may be better, also cheaper

u/shuddertrix · 2 pointsr/VFIO

This is on BIOS version 1201 (AGESA 1.0.0.3ABBA). Kernel is not patched for ACS. IOMMU group separation could use some work. I've worked around this by adding a Fresco Logic PCI-E USB card to my setup; used it previously for VR and now it's working great as dedicated USB ports for a VM. I have WiFi disabled, not sure where it goes. I've also got an NVMe drive (group 21) and GTX 1080 (group 25) passed through with zero problems.

IOMMU Group 0:
00:01.0 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse PCIe Dummy Host Bridge [1022:1482]
IOMMU Group 1:
00:01.1 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse GPP Bridge [1022:1483]
IOMMU Group 10:
00:14.0 SMBus [0c05]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] FCH SMBus Controller [1022:790b] (rev 61)
00:14.3 ISA bridge [0601]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] FCH LPC Bridge [1022:790e] (rev 51)
IOMMU Group 11:
00:18.0 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Matisse Device 24: Function 0 [1022:1440]
00:18.1 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Matisse Device 24: Function 1 [1022:1441]
00:18.2 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Matisse Device 24: Function 2 [1022:1442]
00:18.3 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Matisse Device 24: Function 3 [1022:1443]
00:18.4 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Matisse Device 24: Function 4 [1022:1444]
00:18.5 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Matisse Device 24: Function 5 [1022:1445]
00:18.6 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Matisse Device 24: Function 6 [1022:1446]
00:18.7 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Matisse Device 24: Function 7 [1022:1447]
IOMMU Group 12:
01:00.0 Non-Volatile memory controller [0108]: Samsung Electronics Co Ltd NVMe SSD Controller SM951/PM951 [144d:a802] (rev 01)
IOMMU Group 13:
02:00.0 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Device [1022:57ad]
IOMMU Group 14:
03:01.0 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Device [1022:57a3]
IOMMU Group 15:
03:02.0 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Device [1022:57a3]
IOMMU Group 16:
03:03.0 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Device [1022:57a3]
IOMMU Group 17:
03:05.0 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Device [1022:57a3]
IOMMU Group 18:
03:08.0 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Device [1022:57a4]
08:00.0 Non-Essential Instrumentation [1300]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse Reserved SPP [1022:1485]
08:00.1 USB controller [0c03]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Matisse USB 3.0 Host Controller [1022:149c]
08:00.3 USB controller [0c03]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Matisse USB 3.0 Host Controller [1022:149c]
IOMMU Group 19:
03:09.0 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Device [1022:57a4]
09:00.0 SATA controller [0106]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] FCH SATA Controller [AHCI mode] [1022:7901] (rev 51)
IOMMU Group 2:
00:01.2 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse GPP Bridge [1022:1483]
IOMMU Group 20:
03:0a.0 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Device [1022:57a4]
0a:00.0 SATA controller [0106]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] FCH SATA Controller [AHCI mode] [1022:7901] (rev 51)
IOMMU Group 21:
04:00.0 Non-Volatile memory controller [0108]: Samsung Electronics Co Ltd NVMe SSD Controller SM981/PM981/PM983 [144d:a808]
IOMMU Group 22:
05:00.0 VGA compatible controller [0300]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD/ATI] Baffin [Radeon RX 460/560D / Pro 450/455/460/555/555X/560/560X] [1002:67ef] (rev cf)
05:00.1 Audio device [0403]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD/ATI] Baffin HDMI/DP Audio [Radeon RX 550 640SP / RX 560/560X] [1002:aae0]
IOMMU Group 23:
06:00.0 USB controller [0c03]: Fresco Logic FL1100 USB 3.0 Host Controller [1b73:1100] (rev 10)
IOMMU Group 24:
07:00.0 Ethernet controller [0200]: Realtek Semiconductor Co., Ltd. RTL8111/8168/8411 PCI Express Gigabit Ethernet Controller [10ec:8168] (rev 26)
IOMMU Group 25:
0b:00.0 VGA compatible controller [0300]: NVIDIA Corporation GP104 [GeForce GTX 1080] [10de:1b80] (rev a1)
0b:00.1 Audio device [0403]: NVIDIA Corporation GP104 High Definition Audio Controller [10de:10f0] (rev a1)
IOMMU Group 3:
00:02.0 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse PCIe Dummy Host Bridge [1022:1482]
IOMMU Group 4:
00:03.0 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse PCIe Dummy Host Bridge [1022:1482]
IOMMU Group 5:
00:03.1 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse GPP Bridge [1022:1483]
IOMMU Group 6:
00:04.0 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse PCIe Dummy Host Bridge [1022:1482]
IOMMU Group 7:
00:05.0 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse PCIe Dummy Host Bridge [1022:1482]
IOMMU Group 8:
00:07.0 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse PCIe Dummy Host Bridge [1022:1482]
00:07.1 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse Internal PCIe GPP Bridge 0 to bus[E:B] [1022:1484]
0c:00.0 Non-Essential Instrumentation [1300]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse PCIe Dummy Function [1022:148a]
IOMMU Group 9:
00:08.0 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse PCIe Dummy Host Bridge [1022:1482]
00:08.1 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse Internal PCIe GPP Bridge 0 to bus[E:B] [1022:1484]
00:08.2 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse Internal PCIe GPP Bridge 0 to bus[E:B] [1022:1484]
00:08.3 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse Internal PCIe GPP Bridge 0 to bus[E:B] [1022:1484]
0d:00.0 Non-Essential Instrumentation [1300]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse Reserved SPP [1022:1485]
0d:00.1 Encryption controller [1080]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse Cryptographic Coprocessor PSPCPP [1022:1486]
0d:00.3 USB controller [0c03]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Matisse USB 3.0 Host Controller [1022:149c]
0d:00.4 Audio device [0403]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Starship/Matisse HD Audio Controller [1022:1487]
0e:00.0 SATA controller [0106]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] FCH SATA Controller [AHCI mode] [1022:7901] (rev 51)
0f:00.0 SATA controller [0106]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] FCH SATA Controller [AHCI mode] [1022:7901] (rev 51)

u/carbonated_turtle · 2 pointsr/WindowsMR
u/hanzo4prez · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Yep! I bought this card. Works just fine.

u/eitherrabbit78 · 2 pointsr/oculus

Are your drivers for your USB Hub Windows 10 default drivers or are the updated drivers for the Hub it self from the manufacturer?

EDIT I had the same issue until I bought and installed https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPIMJEW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1

u/JigglyWiggly_ · 2 pointsr/VFIO

Nope, just run this script from the arch wiki:

!/bin/bash

shopt -s nullglob<br />
for g in /sys/kernel/iommu_groups/*; do<br />
    echo &quot;IOMMU Group ${g##*/}:&quot;<br />
    for d in $g/devices/*; do<br />
        echo -e &quot;\t$(lspci -nns ${d##*/})&quot;<br />
    done;<br />
done;<br />


My output is below. What you are looking out for is mainly to find at least one USB controller that is in its own group. For my VM I pass the amd usb 3.0 controller(group 20). I then could use the onboard asmedia usb 3.1 controller for my host, but instead I just use a pci express card for that. I use this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPIMJEW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 since it is very stable. The asmedia controller isn't the most stable thing in the world.

&amp;#x200B;

IOMMU Group 0:
00:01.0 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-1fh) PCIe Dummy Host Bridge [1022:1452]
IOMMU Group 1:
00:01.1 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) PCIe GPP Bridge [1022:1453]
IOMMU Group 10:
00:08.0 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-1fh) PCIe Dummy Host Bridge [1022:1452]
IOMMU Group 11:
00:08.1 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) Internal PCIe GPP Bridge 0 to Bus B [1022:1454]
IOMMU Group 12:
00:14.0 SMBus [0c05]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] FCH SMBus Controller [1022:790b] (rev 59)
00:14.3 ISA bridge [0601]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] FCH LPC Bridge [1022:790e] (rev 51)
IOMMU Group 13:
00:18.0 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) Data Fabric: Device 18h; Function 0 [1022:1460]
00:18.1 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) Data Fabric: Device 18h; Function 1 [1022:1461]
00:18.2 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) Data Fabric: Device 18h; Function 2 [1022:1462]
00:18.3 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) Data Fabric: Device 18h; Function 3 [1022:1463]
00:18.4 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) Data Fabric: Device 18h; Function 4 [1022:1464]
00:18.5 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) Data Fabric: Device 18h; Function 5 [1022:1465]
00:18.6 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) Data Fabric: Device 18h; Function 6 [1022:1466]
00:18.7 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) Data Fabric: Device 18h; Function 7 [1022:1467]
IOMMU Group 14:
01:00.0 Non-Volatile memory controller [0108]: Phison Electronics Corporation E12 NVMe Controller [1987:5012] (rev 01)
IOMMU Group 15:
03:00.0 USB controller [0c03]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Device [1022:43d0] (rev 01)
03:00.1 SATA controller [0106]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] 400 Series Chipset SATA Controller [1022:43c8] (rev 01)
03:00.2 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] 400 Series Chipset PCIe Bridge [1022:43c6] (rev 01)
16:00.0 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] 400 Series Chipset PCIe Port [1022:43c7] (rev 01)
16:01.0 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] 400 Series Chipset PCIe Port [1022:43c7] (rev 01)
16:02.0 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] 400 Series Chipset PCIe Port [1022:43c7] (rev 01)
16:03.0 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] 400 Series Chipset PCIe Port [1022:43c7] (rev 01)
16:04.0 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] 400 Series Chipset PCIe Port [1022:43c7] (rev 01)
16:08.0 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] 400 Series Chipset PCIe Port [1022:43c7] (rev 01)
1b:00.0 USB controller [0c03]: Fresco Logic FL1100 USB 3.0 Host Controller [1b73:1100] (rev 10)
1c:00.0 USB controller [0c03]: ASMedia Technology Inc. ASM1142 USB 3.1 Host Controller [1b21:1242]
IOMMU Group 16:
1d:00.0 VGA compatible controller [0300]: NVIDIA Corporation GP104 [GeForce GTX 1070] [10de:1b81] (rev a1)
1d:00.1 Audio device [0403]: NVIDIA Corporation GP104 High Definition Audio Controller [10de:10f0] (rev a1)
IOMMU Group 17:
1e:00.0 VGA compatible controller [0300]: NVIDIA Corporation GP106 [GeForce GTX 1060 3GB] [10de:1c02] (rev a1)
1e:00.1 Audio device [0403]: NVIDIA Corporation GP106 High Definition Audio Controller [10de:10f1] (rev a1)
IOMMU Group 18:
1f:00.0 Non-Essential Instrumentation [1300]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Zeppelin/Raven/Raven2 PCIe Dummy Function [1022:145a]
IOMMU Group 19:
1f:00.2 Encryption controller [1080]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) Platform Security Processor [1022:1456]
IOMMU Group 2:
00:01.3 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) PCIe GPP Bridge [1022:1453]
IOMMU Group 20:
1f:00.3 USB controller [0c03]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) USB 3.0 Host Controller [1022:145c]
IOMMU Group 21:
20:00.0 Non-Essential Instrumentation [1300]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Zeppelin/Renoir PCIe Dummy Function [1022:1455]
IOMMU Group 22:
20:00.2 SATA controller [0106]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] FCH SATA Controller [AHCI mode] [1022:7901] (rev 51)
IOMMU Group 23:
20:00.3 Audio device [0403]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) HD Audio Controller [1022:1457]
IOMMU Group 3:
00:02.0 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-1fh) PCIe Dummy Host Bridge [1022:1452]
IOMMU Group 4:
00:03.0 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-1fh) PCIe Dummy Host Bridge [1022:1452]
IOMMU Group 5:
00:03.1 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) PCIe GPP Bridge [1022:1453]
IOMMU Group 6:
00:03.2 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) PCIe GPP Bridge [1022:1453]
IOMMU Group 7:
00:04.0 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-1fh) PCIe Dummy Host Bridge [1022:1452]
IOMMU Group 8:
00:07.0 Host bridge [0600]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-1fh) PCIe Dummy Host Bridge [1022:1452]
IOMMU Group 9:
00:07.1 PCI bridge [0604]: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc. [AMD] Family 17h (Models 00h-0fh) Internal PCIe GPP Bridge 0 to Bus B [1022:1454]

u/DeltaMikeKilo · 2 pointsr/oculus

It's a Fresco Logic FL1100EX. This is the only card Oculus has apparently tested. Though some users are still reporting issues.

u/Tharghor · 2 pointsr/oculus

I did, get the Inateck they recommend. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPIMJEW
replace with .co.uk if in Europe. I've had these problems for a long time and it was part of why I didn't use my rift that much. Be careful and get the newest drivers though.

u/TFWPrimus · 2 pointsr/oculus

Crap, I ordered this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPIMJEW Hopefully it works as well as the one you linked. Looks pretty similar.

u/zeroyon04 · 2 pointsr/oculus

Do you have an open Pcie slot on your mobo? If you don't have a USB 3.0 card already, you will need one. Your X58 Mobo doesn't have USB3.0.

People are saying this one passes the compatability checker:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPIMJEW

Your CPU and motherboard might be good though, yes. It all depends on how much single thread performance is required on the Rift. If you find that your CPU useage is pegging ~100% utilization while using the Rift, then overclock it to 4.2GHz+ using the many guides on the net. If you still can't maintain 90+FPS after that, then you will need an upgrade to a newer architecture like Haswell, Haswell-E, Broadwell, or Skylake.

u/Rylth · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

(Kind of) Could use a different motherboard. The GA-B85M-DS3H only has two USB3's on the back and the Oculus is a greedy little thing when it comes to USB3 ports.

Cheapest motherboard that I'm aware of that has enough USB3's on its own is the ASROCK H97M @ $71 (with shipping)

Alternatively, if you aren't going to need the 1x PCI-e slot for anything else, this PCI-e USB3 express card for $26 has enough USB3's and it's one that I know (should) work for the Oculus (since its also picky about controllers).

u/playdeadstudios · 2 pointsr/oculus

Check the FAQ in the sidebar. Most people are suggesting this one :

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPIMJEW

u/6x9equals42 · 2 pointsr/oculus

It probably won't because those share bandwidth between ports. If you have a spare PCI-E slot this will work: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPIMJEW (the 5 port version)

u/super-6-1 · 2 pointsr/oculus

Well, after looking around i had this same issue but mine would come up and say it was not supported. You have the Asmedia USB 3.0 chipset which isn't supported by Oculus. The FAQ is here https://support.oculus.com/help/oculus/1798990480336565

They have the driver at the bottom but sadly the website isn't working right now for that link. You can use 2.0 and be alright. If you can get a new USB card for your desktop. The one i got because of the same issue you have is this one and i haven't had a issue.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPIMJEW

u/ronfar623 · 2 pointsr/unRAID

I can't help with the errors, but I can recommend this card as it works well with my two Windows 10 VMs under 6.2.4: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPIMJEW/

Can pass the entire card to the VM and just plug USB peripherals normally. 100x easier.

u/VRSmurf · 2 pointsr/oculus
u/spyd3rweb · 2 pointsr/intel

Asus seems to have skimped a bit on old style type-a USB ports, sadly.

The expansion cards are so expensive you might as well just get the Code if you need the ports. Otherwise you can use something like these to get even more ports in the back.

u/ragesaq · 2 pointsr/oculus

I don’t think you have the right one, this one: https://www.amazon.com/Express-SuperSpeed-Adapter-Dedicated-Channels/dp/B00HJZEA2S requires no modifications or third party drivers (use the windows ones!) and is totally rock solid.
4x sensors all on USB3 and perfect room scale tracking.

u/userminjo · 2 pointsr/oculus

Your system is fine. In regards to #2 and #3, just pick up a usb 3.0 pci e card. Either inateck https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1 or Startech https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZEA2S/ref=psdc_229185_t3_B00B6ZCNGM. #4, I would suggest you should if play are is beyond 2m by 2m.

u/plz_sapnupuas · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I ran VR on a 4690K and a 980 ti. Your computer is basically one step above that. You should be fine. Also, 16gb of RAM is still more than enough for most applications.

The only thing I can think of is your USB controller is being pushed past its limits. I had an MSI z97 motherboard and didn't have issues, but I ran out of USB ports so ended up getting a PCI-e USB card. This is the one I got. I got it because it uses a separate channel for each port preventing USB bandwidth issues. Its pricey but worth it if that is your issue. Which I don't actually know if it is, just a possibly.

u/Raunhofer · 2 pointsr/oculus

You need an additional USB-card.

PEXUSB3S44V will fix all your USB-related issues.

You say you haven't seen anyone solving this issue, well this is how they solved it.

You may also want to remove all overclockings you may have (XMP profiles).

u/jsdeprey · 2 pointsr/oculus

I have read on here somewhere people saying this game is really good, and expensive!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZEA2S/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;amp;colid=1CRPZNZDYFYKB&amp;amp;coliid=I2N9RQ39UY4CSS&amp;amp;psc=1

I myself bought two Inateck 4 port cards for 25$ each on Amazon back when they were in stock.

u/Honda_TypeR · 2 pointsr/oculus

So I had this issue with rift on and off for a year

My end game solution, after wasting tons of money on failed solutions, was buying an 4 independent bus usb 3.0 pcie expansion board (plugged into pcie 16x slot)

I tried a cheap 1 usb bus cards with 4 USB ports and it just is too much strain for 1 bus with all these cameras plus everything else on my PC. Even with that extra bus on that expansion card it’s simply not enough.

what finally worked was the 4 independent 3.0 buses on that card.

I have 3 rift cameras and the headset plugged into the card each one with a dedicated usb bus and none of on my mobo

I’m on mobile at the moment but lemme try to find the link.. if I can’t it was from Startech

Here think this is it https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Express-SuperSpeed-Dedicated-Channels/dp/B00HJZEA2S

Make sure you select quad bus or you will be wasting your time.

The last part of this usb disconnect drama for me was a proper usb 3.0 repeater extension cable (on my 3rd and furtherest rear camera). I did a lot of buying and experimenting with these too but this one is the one that finally played nice with rift

https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-Extension-Extender-Repeater-Booster/dp/B0179MXKU8/

After this combo I now finally have flawless no random disconnect usage of my rift

Took a damn year to sort all this out.

I hope it helps

u/likwidtek · 2 pointsr/oculus

Why did you downvote me Heany? The guide you wrote with your amazon link says it's $81 for a total of $200: https://www.amazon.com/Express-SuperSpeed-Adapter-Dedicated-Channels/dp/B00HJZEA2S/

Quit your BS Heany

u/yutani · 2 pointsr/kinect

I did extensive testing couple years ago for Linux. If you use Windows then I don't know. It all depends on the USB extension card chipset.

Probably will work:

  • FrescoLogic FL1100
  • Renesas μPD720201
  • Renesas μPD720202

    Probably do not work:

  • ASMedia ASM1042
  • ASMedia ASM1142
  • ASMedia ASM1142
  • Etron EJ168
  • Etron EJ198H
  • VLI VL805

    Zoom in to the images of the cards and see if they have chips which read "PD720.." to get a Renesas one which I recommend. If card has only one chip it will support only one Kinect 2. There exists a few cards like this one which I have tested to support 4 Kinects.
u/LoneKrafayis · 2 pointsr/buildapcforme

&gt;Compatibility with macOS is a must, since I would like to do a dual macOS and Windows on this machine.

You might want to buy a used Mac. People who use a hackintosh in work are going to have a bad time. It will work fine for years, then need to be completely re-built when you need to work on final projects.

&gt;Hackintosh build

How about a virtual machine hackintosh? Apple won't like this... - Run MacOS on ANY PC

You will need a USB card for the VM, watch the video carefully: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZEA2S/

&gt;want macOS for some general work, and video editing.

A lot of people like the MacOS desktop. It has a lot of good Unix applications. I think you might want to run your video editing on native Windows, unless you are collaborating with MacOS video editors.

&gt;Custom built mechanical keyboard, Logitech G600

Sweet!

PCPartPicker Part List

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i9-9900K 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor | $471.99 @ Amazon
CPU Cooler | Noctua NH-U12A 60.09 CFM CPU Cooler | $99.90 @ Amazon
Motherboard | *ASRock Z390M Pro4 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $114.99 @ Amazon
Memory | *GeIL EVO POTENZA 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $94.99 @ Newegg
Storage | *Sabrent Rocket 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive | $118.98 @ Amazon
Storage | *Western Digital Blue 6 TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive | $139.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | *ASRock Radeon RX 5700 8 GB CHALLENGER D OC Video Card | $339.99 @ Newegg
Case | *Fractal Design Focus G Mini MicroATX Mini Tower Case | $50.01 @ Walmart
Power Supply | *EVGA GD (2019) 500 W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply | $49.99 @ Amazon
Monitor | *Acer XV272U Pbmiiprzx 27.0" 2560x1440 144 Hz Monitor | $369.99 @ Amazon
Keyboard | Velocifire TKL78 Wired Standard Keyboard | Purchased For $0.00
Mouse | Logitech G600 MMO Gaming Mouse Wired Laser Mouse | Purchased For $0.00
Headphones | *Superlux HD681 Headphones | $34.50 @ Amazon
Custom | Fifine Usb Podcast Condenser Microphone K669 | $27.99 @ Amazon
| Total | $1913.31
| | *Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria |

The 32 GB of main memory are so you can run two 12 GB VMs and still have 8 GB for the hardware OS.

The Intel chip was chosen as the integrated graphics can be used for the Apple virtual machine, while a Windows virtual machine uses the RX5700. Or you can switch what OS gets the stronger graphics card. Then add a USB card, this one from StarTech is a favorite with VR people: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZEA2S/

u/FearTheTaswegian · 2 pointsr/oculus

A good point. If I were buying a PCIe USB card I'd probably get the 4 port Startech.

https://www.amazon.de/STARTECH-COM-SuperSpeed-Express-Schnittstellenkarte-Kan%C3%A4len/dp/B00HJZEA2S/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1527086391&amp;amp;sr=8-1-spell&amp;amp;keywords=startec+usb

There are cheaper options but the difference isn't that much in the grand scheme of things and I'd rather have the best solution

Independent channels per port so no bandwidth sharing, and supplemental power.

My mobo has 3 independent USB controllers already so it's non issue for me fortunately

u/QTpopOfficial · 2 pointsr/oculus

Alt USB Card with a dedicated controller per USB port and 20 bucks cheaper.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZEA2S


The cheap inatech or whatever still does work if you get lucky. Mines been "ok" so far but I'll be swapping to the one I linked if I ever need to expand further.

u/DeletedAllMyAccounts · 2 pointsr/oculus

I have a 4-port PCIe card with 4 dedicated 5Gbps channels specifically because I was previously using the recommended Inatek card and it was an utter nightmare.

Everything but the headset itself is plugged into the card, as I've found that's the best possible configuration. It's still finicky, but much, much better than it was. (I was in BSOD hell /w the Inatek card) I'm convinced that there is no truly "perfect and stable" way to set up 3+ sensors, (from the perspective of the Oculus setup tool, that is) though, as I have tried many configurations and they're all a little wacky during setup even though they work well during gameplay.

It doesn't seem to be an issue with USB, it's just that the three cameras have trouble seeing my Touch controller for the entire duration of the trigger-hold simultaneously. It's extremely annoying, but it seems pretty clear that it's just a flaw in the setup process because the whole system works like a dream once I get it configured.

I'm open to suggestions if it means not having to hold my touch controller behind my head like an dumbass 20 times in a row every time I want to adjust my sensor positions though.

u/dogeatdawg · 2 pointsr/buildapc

You can get external hubs or internal PCIe adapters depending on what you need.

If you just need ports for low bandwidth accessories, external ports/hubs will work, or a simple internal expansion (cheap).

If you need more ports AND more channels, you'll need something more expensive. Check this model - it comes in various sizes and various ports/channels.

u/LVNeptune · 2 pointsr/oculus

You using an extension cable? The Inatek card is not really recommended anymore, more reports of issues than solutions.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJZEA2S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1

That is the best card that you can get. Been using it for about 4-5 months now and not a single disconnect or any issue with it at all.

u/RoninOni · 2 pointsr/virtualreality

Yes, quite likely ASMedia is your problem if that's your USB controller.

Did they have you run the compatibility tool and it greenlit everything? Cause I would think you'd get a warning about your USB.

Fix is pretty cheap: https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Express-Controller-Internal-Connector/dp/B00JFR2H64/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=PCIe+USB&amp;qid=1565973679&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-10

$20 and if it doesn't work, it's amazon, so just return it


Have you added any new USB devices to being plugged in? The reason ASMedia has problems is their controller can't actually handle much more than a single full spec USB3 connection. So other devices being active can limit the bandwidth to below what is required.

u/ryanborstelmann · 2 pointsr/homelab

Can confirm this card works like a charm:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JFR2H64/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ZG5oxbQXEQ0EK

I have the two port version with a powered bluray drive and a WD My Passport working wonderfully using PCI power.

u/el_charlie · 2 pointsr/hackintosh

FL1100 has great support in Sierra and El Capitan.

I'm using an Inateck KT4006 and works OOB on my hack.

Here's the one I'm using:
https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Express-Controller-Internal-Connector/dp/B00JFR2H64/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498570527&amp;sr=8-15&amp;keywords=inateck+usb+3.0

u/sk9592 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

In my other comment, I explained why I thought USB 3.0 will not fix your issue.

However, if you still want to upgrade to USB 3.0 for other reasons, I think you are taking the wrong strategy in doing it.

You should buy a USB 3.0 PCIe card like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Cord-free-Inateck-Controller-Internal-Connector/dp/B00JFR2H64/

If you want the ports to be easily accessible from the front, I would buy a cheap USB 3.0 hub or extension cord like these:

https://www.amazon.com/4-Port-Compact-Update-Chipset-Charging/dp/B01FPG5BSE/

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00C7S2FRE/

I think this idea better because this is universally compatible hardware. You can move this and use it on any other computer in the future. It is not a custom piece of hardware that you will be stuck with and can never use on another machine.

u/heavy_metal_flautist · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

That was really the biggest negative for me as well. I'd also like 8 SATA ports, but there are few options there and the Tomahawk has 6 and an NVMe. There are PCIe USB 3.0 expansion cards that are a rather cheap and an easy solution to the lacking USB ports on the back of the board, so spending maybe $20 if I HAD to have them seemed worth it. With the google express deal, and maybe buying a USB expansion card I'm still spending around $100 or less for a solid board; it seemed foolish not to jump on that.

EDIT: Lemons happen, so barring we get one of those I doubt we're going to regret this purchase, and if the need arises later on to upgrade the mobo, this one is a good deal to get by until B550 is available and/or X570 prices drop to a more reasonable price.

u/pitchedblack · 2 pointsr/oculus

I have a board with a 720201 chipset that's now working.

And... it's on sale right now!
https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Expansion-Controller-Additional-Connection/dp/B00JFR2I2C/

u/SirMaple_ · 2 pointsr/homelab

I just put one of these in my Supermicro CSE846 running Proxmox and it works great.

u/drexvil · 2 pointsr/homelab

I asked the same question recently and seems like the Inateck 4 ports card is recommended. Haven't tried it though:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JFR2I2C

https://www.reddit.com/r/homelab/comments/6actac/r710_add_in_usb_30_pcie_card/

u/Rybaka1994 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Just bought this one, hope itll fit. I have 2 970s in my case and I'm not sure if its blocking the PCI port or not.. well see.

u/bobj33 · 2 pointsr/DataHoarder

You can turn internal SAS SFF-8087 ports into external SAS SFF-8088 ports using a bracket like this and some 87 to 87 cables.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PRXOQFA

u/1Bombardier1 · 2 pointsr/burstcoin

I use this pcie card. https://www.amazon.com/Sonnet-Allegro-Pro-PCIe-card/dp/B00XPUHO10/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1519251171&amp;amp;sr=1-1&amp;amp;keywords=allegro+pro

1 controller for each usb. Then in each usb i plug in a 4 port usb hub. so u can use 16 hdds in this pcie card.

u/J4nsen · 2 pointsr/VFIO

Cool!

Can you already share some information? Which hardware are you planning to use? What will the custom case look like?

Regarding the USB card: I just recently found out that these cards exist. There was a discussion about them on the vfio-users mailinglist. This card should also have the right capabilites.

u/Scramblejams · 2 pointsr/VFIO

FWIW this card worked great for me, I was able to pass all four individual controllers through to different (non-Mac) VMs.

https://smile.amazon.com/Sonnet-Allegro-Pro-PCIe-card/dp/B00XPUHO10/

Since the card is aimed at the Mac market, I think your VM should have no trouble using the FL1100 USB controllers on it.

u/CMDR_DrDeath · 2 pointsr/oculus

This here is the expansion card to go for:

https://www.sonnettech.com/product/allegroprousb3pcie.html

https://www.amazon.com/Sonnet-Allegro-4-Port-Windows-Compatible/dp/B00XPUHO10/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1523992582&amp;amp;sr=8-3&amp;amp;keywords=sonnet%2Busb%2B3&amp;amp;th=1

It has 4 ports with 4 individual USB 3 controller chips. That means you can run 4 sensors at full speed with this card without running into bandwidth issues.

u/pskrzyni81 · 2 pointsr/burstcoin

if you are going to add a lot of external drives then you need to add more USB 3.0 cards.
But there is a difference between the $30 4 port and the $100 4 port.
For example the one in the link below has 4 dedicated USB 3 controllers on the card, and it connects to PCI-e x4 so it can make use of a lot of bandwidth. The cheaper cards don't have the ability to support all that bandwidth, but they are useful in particular situations.

So you want 4 or 8 drives to 4 ports the $30 is ok.
If you want 16 with same speed as if you went right to the pc then the one below is want you want.

https://www.amazon.com/Sonnet-Allegro-Pro-PCIe-card/dp/B00XPUHO10/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1522273173&amp;amp;sr=1-1&amp;amp;keywords=Sonnet+Allegro+Pro+USB+3.0+PCIe+card


Its up to you if you can put in 3 or 4 card into your pc then go for the lower cost cards. If you only have 1 or 2 areas to connect the card then go for the $100.

u/Vagrant_Charlatan · 2 pointsr/oculus

Daaaaamn, it's $110: https://www.amazon.com/Sonnet-Allegro-Pro-PCIe-card/dp/B00XPUHO10

Anyone test this or the card you linked? Technically latency could still be an issue that disqualifies it. The VLI controllers on the card you linked are not approved by Oculus, they specifically say not to get the 5 or 7 port Inateck cards because they use the VLI chips for some of the USB slots.

I still think Oculus could have them make a 5 USB slot card with maybe 2 or 3 high quality controllers and custom drivers. I'd be willing to pay $50 or more to get rid of any residual problems.

u/WhatsThatDooDad · 2 pointsr/oculus

How do you have yours mounted? That's a huge play area for the Rift. Try unplugging your HMD USB then plugging it back in when you get the 1 fps controller tracking. Gets rid of it for me every single time.

You're talking about this card from Sonnet, right? I'm tempted, but I don't think it's worth it. I bet a card with 2 Fresco controllers would be good enough as well, maybe a dual ASMedia one.

u/TheWino · 2 pointsr/editors

in our 2010 Macs we use these. We have 5 of them and they do graphics for Broadcast TV all day long. Adobe Suite and Cinema 4D. Im havent looked into upgrading to 1070s yet.

OSX Sierra and 64GB Memory

EVGA GeForce GTX 970

Samsung 500gb SSD

https://www.amazon.com/Apricorn-Velocity-Extreme-Performance-VEL-SOLO-X2/dp/B0090IA3AU/ref=sr_1_9?s=electronics&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1505944526&amp;amp;sr=1-9&amp;amp;keywords=apricorn%2Bsata&amp;amp;th=1

https://www.amazon.com/Sonnet-Allegro-Pro-PCIe-card/dp/B00XPUHO10

u/Bear_mob · 2 pointsr/level1techs

It was my idea so I guess I will go first.

Sonnet Allegro Pro USB 3.0 PCIe card - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XPUHO10

Don't watch too much LTT any more but caught this one on a recent video. It is a USB card with 4 ports on 4 seperate controllers.
Could come in quite useful especially where speed or direct connectablitly is concerned. Though hot plug support is kind of added in recent versions of KVM, it isn't quite ready for seamless or bug free use yet.

u/Kesnei · 2 pointsr/oculus

However, it will be VERY obvious to you when you need the third sensor.You'll find yourself frequently facing the direction without sensors and visual glitches everywhere, trying to turn around and deal with whatever in game objective you were dealing with previously.

If your not experiencing this then wait :)

As a List (That you didn't ask for) for what I bought for Roomscale:4 port /w controller USB 3.0 card (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XPUHO10)Additional Sensor (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0727WDPX6) - Note this includes an 2.0 USB extension cable, 2.0 can stretch farther without signal loss.

**Extra Equipment**10 Ft HDMI extension (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE) - For the Oculus Headset16 Ft USB Active extension (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8) - For the Oculus headset

Hangers for the Oculus cable (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XY5WKXW) - this just gets the cables from under your feet, it is my favorite

u/RSMorin2 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I have the 990 MT with the i7-2600. I would suggest buying the corsair CX550 or CX600 psu for this as it is the EXACT size of the stock PSU you need to install using the case's included mounting bracket. If you don't get the right size the bracket will get in the way of installing the side panel.

This one ----&gt; https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-CX600-Supply-Bronze-Certified/dp/B0092ML0MY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1522928777&amp;amp;sr=8-4&amp;amp;keywords=corsair%2Bcx%2Bseries%2B550%2Bwatt%2B80%2Bplus%2Bbronze%2Bcertified&amp;amp;dpID=51YFU0kvQJL&amp;amp;preST=_SX300_QL70_&amp;amp;dpSrc=srch&amp;amp;th=1

I would go with at least the 500 watt model, but I have the 550 watt, you can find them on sale usually.

When it comes to the GPU, just make sure you are buying one that is less than 8" in length. I have the EVGA SC GTX1060 3gb ---- single fan model that is factory overclocked.

Just make sure you aren't trying to install a GPU that runs off only the PCI-E power as it only supplies a max of 50ish watts or less to the card (Dell says only 35watts, but it will push a little more than that). You want a card that will run off the 6 or 8 pin pci-e power connectors on the new PSU.

Picking up 2 more sticks of DDR3 ram is also recommended. I have 16gb in my system now. Keep in mind this board only supports 4 x 4gb dimms of ram. I picked up a matching 8gb kit of matching ram for my machine for $32 from a reputable seller on ebay. just something to keep in the back of your mind.

I've also installed a 4 port usb 3.0 card on my machine. It will fit just fine in the bottom pci-e 16x slot of the mobo. TRUST me, you will want this as the included 2.0 ports are slow as molasses for 3.0 usb drives. You can pick one up here ---&gt; https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011LZY20G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1

I also decided to go with an ssd for the boot drive and programs. I went with the Samsung Evo 850 250gb. Make sure you place the SATA cable on the furthest right SATA port on the MOBO. This is the only SATA 3.0 port on the motherboard, the next one to the left is a SATA 2.0 port (that I have a 2tb 7200rpm HDD on for storage and games). I wouldn't use the furthest left 2 white sata ports. They are sata 1.0 and the controller is garbage for those two ports and a known issue with these motherboard.

Last thing I would mention is that if you are running this on Windows for gaming, I would stick to the Windows 7 Pro install that came with your machine. Trying to get my GPU and Windows 10 drivers working on my machine was a nightmare and required hours of searching for compatible drivers, also the board in the 990 didn't get the bios update for win 8.1 or win 10. So for the life of this machine --- 2-3 more years, I would stick with win 7 since it is supported till 2020.

GOOD LUCK!!! PM me if you have questions!

u/Vandakeg · 2 pointsr/buildapc

USB PCIe Card, 4 Port USB 3.0 to PCI Express Card Expansion card, PCI-E to USB 3.0 4 Port Hub Controller Adapter, Rosewill RC-508 PCI-E to USB 3.0 Add On card https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011LZY20G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_Bc8CDbXC9G32T

u/a6mzero · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Like this?

u/Prospec7 · 2 pointsr/WindowsMR

I'm using a rosewill rc-508 pci card and it works fine

u/Tee_Money · 2 pointsr/buildapc

PCIe x16 just means there are 16 busses that go to and from the CPU to transfer data faster.

A PCIe USB 3.0 card probably caps out at around x4, if that. So you can put it in a x16 slot, but you won't see any better performance.

Something like this would be fine:

https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Express-Expansion-Connector-Renesas/dp/B011LZY20G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1482549131&amp;amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;amp;keywords=pcie+usb+3.0+card&amp;amp;psc=1

You can also put this in a x1 slot and be fine as well.

x4, x8, x16 are mostly for GPU performance and other high end expansion cards.

u/Mczern · 2 pointsr/oculus

Don't know if it will or not but this is the one I used and it worked great. I'm sure that would work too though. I had static on my most recent build and changing some BIOS settings and playing around with different ports helped reduce it. Try different combinations to see if it helps clear it up if you haven't already.

u/crazy_goat · 2 pointsr/oculus

Cancel your order - searching the reviews for 'Oculus' reveal a lot of disappointment.

The only satisfied Rift users seem to be using it for a single sensor and maybe the HMD.

u/Gadaeus1 · 2 pointsr/oculus

Wait... this matters? I just bought the cheapest 4 usb 3.0 pci I could find. Should I try to cancel that? This really didn't seem like a big deal...

I got this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011LZY20G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1

u/rizon · 2 pointsr/homelab

If the card you use doesn't require power to be connected, you can use it.

I'm using one of these in an R310 with no power connected to it. It works fine for connecting my external HDD's, though all of mine have their own power supply (not powered via USB).

u/Kivvy · 2 pointsr/WindowsMR

get yourself some VR Covers
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0779VGT9W
---
a USB extension cable
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/
---
an HDMI extension cable (you only need one, but you can't beat the deal)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/
---
a pack of velcro ties for the cables
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O9VKVFK/
---
bluetooth 4.0 adapter if you don't have one (or don't have a good one) and plug into a USB 2.0 port if possible. put it on the end of any USB extension cable will help ensure a direct line of sight to you from the adapter.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009ZIILLI/
---
and finally, if your USB ports fail the WMR test, get this card
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011LZY20G/

u/Eagle555557 · 2 pointsr/WindowsMR

I just posted a question here about what card or box I should get and someone recommended me this one

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G86538S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Dne2DbJARPMD4

u/ironfixxxer · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Here ya go. I've got the 2 port version of this which also has a USB 3.0 header for the inside. Works perfectly.

u/GodFlash · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Just go to Amazon or Newegg or where ever you prefer and search for "PCIe to USB".


Example

u/Hornet_F4C · 2 pointsr/oculus

Do you mean PCI-e x1? If so thats very common for most USB 3.0 cards providing several ports on the same controller - which means the ports all share the bandwidth.
People putting these in larger slots than x1 are just wasting the slot as these cards do not even have the pins to support more than one lane.

Only USB 3.0 cards that provide multiple controllers as such can provide full USB 3.0 speed at multiple ports in parallel support multiple PCI-e lanes.

So in general, there is no problem in using a PCI-e x1 slot for an additional USB controller card. It is meant to be this way. If the card fits the slot, you are fine.

https://www.amazon.de/Inateck-KTU3FR-4P-expresskarte-SATA-Stromanschluss-Strom-Y-Kabel/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1493373480&amp;amp;sr=8-6&amp;amp;keywords=inateck+usb+3

u/florianbernard13 · 2 pointsr/virtualreality

I fixed all my Rift tracking issues adding this powered USB PCI card. Works like a charm now.
https://www.amazon.fr/dp/B00B6ZCNGM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

u/VRdoping · 2 pointsr/oculus

By compatible I mean "known working" with the Rift S. During CV1 roomscale, some cards had issues with multiple sensors and even now you have to be careful. Oculus recommended a PCIe card like this for rift, but it does not seem to work with Rift S.
So before you buy anything search the sub, the web and take a look at all reviews for someone confirming compatability with Rift S.
But I must honestly say I cannot guarantee that this eliminates all issues.


Additionally this should be kept in mind:

  1. Don't use the Inateck drivers. The Microsoft Windows 10 drivers are the one to use. Uninstall the card and let it install with the default Microsoft drivers.
  2. The 2-port and 4-port inateck cards with sata power are the ones to buy. The 5+ port Inateck ones have extra VIA controllers you don't want. Models you want are KTU3FR-2O2I or KTU3FR-4P
  3. Plug only the Rift S into the card
  4. If you follow step 1-3 you should have no problems.
u/Gamerhead · 2 pointsr/oculus

I just bought this one, as recommended by some people on the subreddit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cJ6LDbRE4KNKA

I think it solved a lot of my issues

u/Blasterboy47 · 2 pointsr/oculus

I’ve had usb problems before, this USB card was the answer for me and many other people. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_G-BZDb56EDZVH

u/TriggerTactix · 2 pointsr/oculus

The two front ones ABSOLUTELY need to be in 3.0 slots, first I bought a insignia two port USB 3.0 pci-e card and it would only register one of the sensors as 3.0 and the one that was only tracking 2.0 kept freezing the whole headset. Then I purchased an inoteck 4 port USB 3.0 pci-e card and was able to get it work with 0 freezing. The inoteck has to have some power from the PSU and the sata power cable didn't work, I had to use the molex - sata adapater that came with it in order for it to install the drivers properly. Could just be random hiccup though?

Inoteck 4 port - https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-KT4001-SuperSpeed-Ports-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1521219427&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=inateck+usb+3.0+4+port

u/OculusRoss · 2 pointsr/oculus

I had an issue with this too, but others on this Reddit page suggested to me that I could use a PCI-E to USB 3 expansion like this.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-E-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM

I haven't gone ahead and bought it so far though. As I mentioned in an earlier comment, I'm also wary of whether my i-7 860 will be good enough to power VR, so together with having to purchase this USB expansion plus a better graphics card it's left me wondering whether I'd just be better of waiting until later in the year and buying a brand new computer instead.

u/doveenigma13 · 2 pointsr/oculus

Read the wiki. It has suggested hardware.

Edit: here it is

Inateck Superspeed 4 Ports PCI-E to USB 3.0 Expansion Card - Interface USB 3.0 4-Port Express Card Desktop with 15 Pin SATA Power Connector, [ Include with A 4pin to 2x15pin Cable + A 15pin to 2x 15pin SATA Y-Cable ] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bwxGzbK9DWNF3

u/VRising · 2 pointsr/oculus

Your computer probably needs that Inateck USB card. It doesn't sound like your USB cables are getting enough power.
https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-E-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1503243521&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=inateck+usb+3.0

u/SoulBun · 2 pointsr/oculus

The question is a little bit broad, but you plug it into your graphics cards display port and into a USB port, download the Oculus software and steam VR if you want to play steam games and you're set. You'll want a graphics card like a GTX1050ti or higher for the games and at least a modern CPU.

Alternatively in the Rift S case it uses some kind of 3D mapping of your room/ play area to track the headset with it's cameras and then also uses the headsets cameras to track the controllers via IR lights emitted from them that flash at different frequencies.

If you do get a Rift S and your specs are up to par but you find that you loose tracking completely sometimes or get static/ snow looking stuff on your screen this can be fixed by purchasing and installing a USB expansion card in your pc, the recommended ones are basically anything with a Fresco L1100 chipset like this one: https://www.amazon.com.au/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM

u/rtware6088 · 2 pointsr/oculus

Here is the link to the card that is recommended by the subreddit wiki. If you go to rooms scale setup option 2 the card is listed there. Here is the exact card listed in the wiki. link

I'll admit the black/red is not much better than the silver/green but the ones you are looking at are still not the recommended ones.

u/inarashi · 2 pointsr/oculus

The root cause i probably your PC, or more precisely your USB 3.x port doesn't supply enough current.
Try the recommended Inatek PCIe card, as it should provide enough power for the Rift S: https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=inateck+4+port+usb+pcie&amp;amp;qid=1572252471&amp;amp;sr=8-4

u/Smallmammal · 2 pointsr/Vive

&gt; and wireless headset.

I read this can stress the usb port's bandwidth. If your system has two USB controllers I'd put this and the wifi on one controller and the vive on the other. Or unplug them and see if your issues go away.

I also slightly disagree that your CPU is to blame. It might be, but its pretty close to a 2500k, which a lot of people here use. It is 6 cores vs 4, so its per core performance is much lower. That may or may not be something to worry about depending on how well multi-thread the games you play are, but we do know USB issues are usually the main culprit.

&gt; 1 TB SSD

Pop then out of its case and put it into your SATA natively. Why are you using USB here? This can eat up all the USB bandwidth on a controller all on its own and even then you're getting a fraction of the performance you're paying for. I really think you just have too many USB devices here and the vive is notoriously hard on USB. If this must be external, I'd consider moving to an eSATA connector.

You can also just buy a cheap known-good USB card, put it in, and have the Vive use it exclusively.

https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM

$24

u/VIVE_Cap · 2 pointsr/Vive

-Unplug other unused USB devices,
-Disable front facing camera if you have turned it on.
-Reset your controllers and pair them again with your headset.

Maybe this PCI-E USB expansion card can help.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/

u/Rayden666 · 2 pointsr/oculus

I think most people use the Inatek ones:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM
I do, and I don't have any issues with tracking, with a 2-sensor 360° setup.

u/Lord-Talon · 2 pointsr/oculus

What the other guy is saying.

If you don't have enough USB slots just get a PCIe USB Card for $20, should fix all issues.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM?pf_rd_p=2d1ab404-3b11-4c97-b3db-48081e145e35&amp;amp;pf_rd_r=PFPXXSZ8SX3NFV8B1FCR

This one is officially recommended by Oculus.

u/bradleymaustin · 2 pointsr/oculus

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM
there is the one with the Fresco Chipset that Oculus recommends and I Use

u/Ninlilizi · 2 pointsr/vridge

When I looked into this. Due to limitations of the camera resolution, with 4 cameras your looking at a maximum play space of about 12 feet.

The problem with additional cameras is USB bandwidth. Something that a hub can not fix. Instead you'll need to buy a couple of the Inateck USB adapters the Occulus crowd recommend. And put 2 cameras on each controller.

The PSMove Service is single threaded. So the additional cameras won't impact your CPU utilisation. Though you may have to reduce the per camera FPS if you have weak cores. Though my own experience with using all these things is 8 cores only barely enough. And would recommend upgrading to a 16 core CPU if at all possible (I know it's not an option for me, because if I had the money for a 16 core CPU, I'd just go buy a Vive. The price is comparable).

One word of warning, with the USB adapter boards. Don't use Molex to Sata adapters, like the one supplied to power the thing... Those things are infamous within the tech support world for being the number one cause of PC related fires.... The SATA power splitters are fine, so use them if your short of plugs on your PSU

u/quadrplax · 2 pointsr/Pimax

I already have an Innatek USB 3.0 card, specifically this one, that I bought to use with the Vive. I'll still try this later though.

u/Jimessic · 2 pointsr/oculus

I am already mounting all sensors about 8 feet in the air and all have active USB repeaters, two with USB 2.0 and two with USB 3.0. I am also using this Inatek 3.0 PCI card. If there is not a way for me to get decent tracking with that set up, then fuck that, I'll just wait for the knuckles and sell this thing.

u/LovingVirtualReality · 2 pointsr/virtualreality

Make sure you get a fresno logic card for the USB if your motherboard doesn't have it. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

u/jello_aka_aron · 2 pointsr/oculus

The issue isn't a fundamental 3.0 v 2.0 problem. The problem is the total throughput of a given USB controller. They've noticed that most controllers on the market cannot keep up with 3 sensors and the headset and maintain a low enough latency. Thus they recommend putting one of them on 2.0 so it will end up using a different controller and spread the load. You can certainly try the existing 3.0 port if you've got enough, but there's a chance you'll run into issues. If you do you'll need to grab an PCIE USB card (this one is a good one).

u/ccp001 · 2 pointsr/oculus

GIGABYTE AORUS GA-AX370-Gaming K5 AMD Ryzen AM4 X370 RGB FUSION SMART FAN 5 HDMI M.2 USB 3.1 Type-C ATX DDR4 Motherboard

This is the usb card I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1

Unfortunately there is really no way to tell if your pc will be able to handle four sensors without trying.

u/outz · 2 pointsr/Vive

here's a tip i don't see mentioned.

if you're having issues with using the htc vive camera (loss of tracking etc) or being forced to set the camera in 30hz mode for it to even work - i purchased the following card:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1

great card, supported chipset, and it's powered.

before i bought this card i was forced to run the vive camera in 30hz, or else it would make my tracking go all screwy. seems 100% solid at 60hz now

u/FolkSong · 2 pointsr/oculus

I don't know about those sites but this is the card Oculus recommends.

u/iskesss · 2 pointsr/oculus

I FIGURED IT OUT!

It was a USB bandwidth problem after all. I ordered a PCI-E USB 3.0 expansion card on Amazon, plugged it into the PC, and now everything works flawlessly. I guess my motherboard just came stock with a crappy USB controller.

Here's the link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

u/Dante-Alighieri · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Yes and no. You can get a PCIe USB 3.0 hub, which is about as close to swapping them out. If you had the knowledge (and your motherboard has a USB 3.0 header), you could swap out the ports, but if you have to ask if it's possible, you probably don't have the skills to do so.

u/cf18 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Well typical boards usually have enough USB for most people. Typical case gives you two USB3 on the front by connecting to one of the USB3 ports on the motherboard. Many cases also give you two USB2.

If you need more USB, you should use the internal ones on the board first. There are back panel versions, e.g.

http://www.amazon.com/uxcell%C2%AE-Motherboard-Cable-Panel-Bracket/dp/B0087ZAYTC?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;*Version*=1&amp;amp;*entries*=0

or front panel versions for 3.5" or 5.25" bay, e.g.

http://www.amazon.com/Anker%C2%AE-Front-Panel-Connector-Adapter/dp/B00J4EZE4U?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;*Version*=1&amp;amp;*entries*=0

If you still need more than you can add a PCI-E card, e.g. this one is recommend by Oculus:

http://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-E-Expansion/dp/B00FPIMICA

As for number of slots, I am not sure what is the confusion and they are all clearly list in the specification. Let's use a bigger as an example:

https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/Z170-A/specifications/

&gt; 2 x PCIe 3.0/2.0 x16 (x16 or dual x8)
1 x PCIe 3.0/2.0 x16 (max at x4 mode) *1
3 x PCIe 3.0/2.0 x1
1 x PCI

So there are 6 PCI-E slots. A PCI-E x1 card can be used by any slot that is same size or longer, so anyone of them can be used by the USB card. But you don't waste a x16 slot for that. The first x16 slot will be used by the video card, and the next slot will be useless since it is covered by the big video card. So any open x1 slot can be used for the USB card.

Note that PCI (no E) is the old legacy slot. Just ignore it since you cannot fit any PCI-E card on it.

u/whiteyonenh · 2 pointsr/Twitch

Before worrying about all that, I would try a pci-e usb 3.0 expansion card if you're having issues with the USB3 built in hardware on your motherboard. IMHO the FX-8300 would be fine still as long as you're doing your encoding via a capture card, or via something like NVENC. I don't know that I would trust it with software encoding while gaming. Benchmark-wise, multi-core on the FX-8300 is pretty similar to an i5 4570, which is still pretty capable for the most part.

Something like this may work as long as you have an empty pci-e slot. https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00FPIMICA/

Caveats: 1) No real hardware upgrade, which can be both a good and bad thing. 2) System still not technically supported by Elgato.

Other notes: The latest "high-end" AMD CPUs to use DDR3 were the FX series I believe, and I currently use an FX-8300 in my home fileserver, and an i5 4590 in my gaming PC. The latest generation of Intel that used DDR3 was the 5th gen (i3,i5,i7 5xxx), which are fairly rare in desktop form, the latest generation mainstream was the 4th gen, which is really very similar to the 8-core FX series performance-wise, with the i5/i7 of that generation having the slight (in the case of i5) to slightly greater (in the case of i7) edge over the FX 8-cores.

Realistically you're probably looking into new ram/cpu/motherboard if you chose to upgrade to get any reasonable performance boost, everything else would likely be compatible, as expansion cards like graphics cards, other things like power supplies and hard drives and dvd drives, haven't really changed in regards to how they connect to the motherboard.

u/Oneeyedpirate1 · 2 pointsr/oculus

i was having a similar issue but if i were you i would think about just getting this http://www.amazon.co.uk/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-E-Expansion/dp/B00FPIMICA/ reason being at least you know you are sorted day one.. nobody wants to get their rift open it up have problems and have to wait another 6 to 10 days for some other delivery and you could just leave these 4 ports just for your rift and have many more usb ports for future use... besides the price is worth insuring you wont be screwed when the guy delivers your rift some morning.. good luck and happy rifting pal :)

u/Joomonji · 2 pointsr/oculus

It looks like it has an open PCIE slot x1 which would allow this card to be used: http://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-E-Expansion/dp/B00FPIMICA

edit: And a pic of the motherboard

u/martialfarts316 · 2 pointsr/Games

When you say
&gt;Oculus Controller

Do you mean the Oculus Touch controllers? Because if so, they don't need USB at all. The breakdown goes:

  • Audio DAC + IMU(s) tracking data
  • Oculus Sensor 1
  • Oculus Sensor 2 (for the Touch controllers later this year)
  • (USB 2.0): Xbox One Wireless PC Adapter

    At launch, it only needs 2x USB 3.0 ports and 1x USB 2.0 port. Later this year, you would need another USB 3.0 port for the second camera sensor but then you wouldn't need the USB 2.0 port for the xbox controller since you would be using Touch at that point.

    So at most, 3 ports (2x 3.0 &amp; 1x 2.0 / 3x 3.0)

    But yes, at the least you would need 3 ports to play, which some people don't have the luxury of having. In that case, there are options for PCI-E expansions, such as this one that offer you plenty of ports for your needs.
u/Nexdeus · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

You need to get a PCIE card that is small enough for your smaller slots and then just connect the Rift directly to your motherboard.

https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Express-Connector-Controller-Internal/dp/B00FPIMICA/

Use this one for your things like keyboard, mouse etc., and directly connect the rift to the mobo. Your motherboard isn't going to work in this configuration according to your manual.

u/harpuajim25 · 2 pointsr/oculus

Could be. Reinstall your GPU drivers and make sure your USB drivers are up to date.

If you do have USB problems you can add a PCIe USB card but that's assuming that there is nothing wrong with the headset.

u/jaber2 · 2 pointsr/EtherMining

You can try using PCI to PCIe riser or use one of these PCIe Extenders

u/xyz940 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

&gt; ASRock Extreme6

No it won't , there isn't a haswell board that has M.2 3.0 x4 as far as I remember .

You need to get this and plug it into your last PCIE slot or your second PCIe 3.0 x16 slot , this will probably drop the first PCIe into x8 but that doesn't really matter .

It is also not that much of real world difference between PCI SSD 2.0/3.0 .

u/werbyderk · 2 pointsr/EtherMining

If you're looking to expand further, you might want to look into a pcie expander

u/Astealoth · 2 pointsr/pathofexile

Are you using a Z87 or Z97? If you have one of those platforms you can crank your ram up to 2133mhz or so, and if you have a copper heat sink on your CPU you can push a 4690K to around 4300mhz-4400mhz even on boards like B85 and H97 that might be limited to 1.2v of CPU power delivery. And you could get a PCI-E storage device these days really cheap. 256gb Intel 600p is down to $100 on Newegg, even if your board doesn't have m.2 slot support you can get a PCI-E m.2 NVMe riser card for around 20 bucks.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N78XZCH?psc=1

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16820167411

u/relink2013 · 2 pointsr/NiceHash

If it is looking like a problem with the board, I do have an older socket 1155 board, but it inly has 2 pcie slots. Does anyone here have experience with the pcie extender cards? If i could throw one or even two of these on that socket 1155 board, id be back in business.

https://www.amazon.com/Extender-Bitcoin-Litecoin-Ubit-Adapter-Ethereum/dp/B073W9KCFC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1509989784&amp;amp;sr=8-4&amp;amp;keywords=pcie+splitter&amp;amp;dpID=51-opCYTp1L&amp;amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;amp;dpSrc=srch

u/TwoAprilFools · 2 pointsr/homelab

I use a similar card in my Dell T30 and it shows up in bios under PCI as a "mass storage" device. Boots to Proxmox with no issues.

&amp;#x200B;

It appears they are likely the same card with different "names". On second look the revision is different. One is ver03 the other is 04S.

&amp;#x200B;

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N78XZCH

u/dhess · 2 pointsr/haskell

I run NixOS on both a Jetson TK1 (armv7l) and a Jetson TX1 (aarch64). It works great on both of those boards. On the TX1, I use a Mailiya M.2 PCIe to PCIe 3.0 x4 adapter (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N78XZCH/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1) along with a Samsung EVO 960 NVMe board to host the entire NixOS filesystem, and it really flies.

Out of the box, Nixpkgs does not support GHC on any ARM architecture, because -- believe it or not -- the GHC bootstrap process on Nixpkgs starts by downloading the binary distributions for GHC 7.4.2, and there is no binary distribution of 7.4.2 for any ARM. (Even if there were, you would not want to wait for it to bootstrap through 3 or 4 versions of GHC on ARM! Building even a single version of GHC on the TK1 is brutally slow.)

However, I've created a Nixpkgs overlay that downloads the Debian package for 8.0.1 and use that to bootstrap a Nix derivation for 8.0.2. I posted links to a rough version of that overlay in the comments here: https://github.com/NixOS/nixpkgs/issues/31666. I've been using this overlay to build Haskell packages for armv7l on my TK1 for months now with great success. I thought it worked on aarch64 as well, but based on the feedback from a tester in that GitHub issue, it sounds like it doesn't work anymore for that platform. In any case, over the next week or so I'll try to post a working version of the overlay somewhere on GitHub.

Re: the Jetson TX2, I can't get NixOS to boot on it, which is odd given how similar the platform is to the TX1. It can't find the root filesystem from the initrd. I even tried the official linux-tegra kernel, which is maintained by Nvidia devs and has bleeding-edge support for Nvidia's Tegra platforms, but to no avail. I haven't tried the recently-released 4.14 kernel yet, but I will soon.

u/pandorafalters · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

It's a bit more expensive than some, but I recently used this adapter to upgrade my 256 GB boot drive to a 1 TB drive. Seemed to run at full speed until the caches ran out, which is about the best you can really hope for.

It does require a #00 Phillips driver for the M.2 screw, though.

u/CAPTURMOTHER · 2 pointsr/virtualreality

This sounds very similar to an issue I was having, except instead of occurring when I turned my head it happened when I had to move my Touch controllers vigorously to either side of my head... if I couldn't see most/all of what a hand was doing during Beat Saber, for instance, I was guaranteed to lag a couple times a song.

I had just upgraded my GPU and stuff in advance of getting VR so knew it wasn't that. I ended up buying and trying a few different devices so I could swap controllers/cables... ultimately came to find my PC was the issue, and that the (minimum-spec) USB 3.0 ports it had were being overwhelmed.

Based on some advice here I got a PCIe USB 3.0 card to combat the problem. This is the one I had to get because I needed a PCIex1. Take caution if you do this, however... there's an Oculus-approved list (along with some community-endorsed ones) that will work, but largely anything else you buy won't.

Finally, if you haven't be sure you've done the trick where you go into device manager and alter your USB power settings. That didn't negate my problem, but it made it a lot better

edit: unless there's some obscure shit abt your hardware I'm missing absolutely nothing about that build should bottleneck VR performance

u/TheresShitInMyBucket · 2 pointsr/oculus

This will solve your USB issue with the Rift S as well as CV1 in that case
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VOmlDb5GFDWMF

u/iop90 · 2 pointsr/Vive

Honestly, there's really no way to tell if a card will work with the Vive well or not. If it's an aftermarket 3.0 or 3.1 card, chances are good, but I had an Anker USB 3.0 card whose controller was incompatible. If you can, the Inateck is guaranteed by both Oculus and HTC to perform well.

I noticed your link was a UK website. If you need to buy this card in the UK, here is a link on Amazon for my exact card.

u/whave · 2 pointsr/oculus

A simple USB 3.0 hub might or might not do it for roomscale, I was told. Your sensors might start competing for bandwidth and become jittery.

I have no 1st hand experience with this but there were many discussions covering the topic and if you experience jitters with your hub, just go for this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1511527632&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=inateck+pcie

(Canadian price should be about the same I guess)

u/lastrogu3 · 2 pointsr/Vive

Have you banged it against a wall, dropped it, or otherwise collided it with a physical object at all? I've seen other users posting that after banging it together they determined that a ribbon cable in the controller had been broken lose by the impact.

When they removed the casing though HTC said that they voided their warranty. So I wouldn't disassemble it if I were you. Just a potential to consider.

Another thing to try is another USB port (Get the Inateck USB 3.0 PCI card if you have a free PCI card slot).

Here's the link for that:

https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM

ensure that the Lighthouses can accurately see your devices. There is a steam environment or background that shows the exact range of the lighthouses that I use to setup the lighthouses. pretty useful.

Here's the link for that:

http://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=711411281

Without any insight into what you have for hardware though, I would venture to bet it is the USB port you may be using.

u/greeneblitz · 2 pointsr/oculus

Can't believe you haven't had a good answer yet, yes, your setup is a fairly common one and should work, nothing is guaranteed but looks good to me, absolute worse case scenario you would need the inateck usb card for like 20 bucks.

https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1524453764&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=Inateck+usb+card

u/pewter123qwe · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales
u/Madamserious · 2 pointsr/oculus

The card recommended by Oculus is this one. I have it and it works great for me.

More info in the wiki for this subreddit.

u/EldeederSFW · 2 pointsr/oculus

Would this be a better option?

https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM

I have no idea what I'm doing here..

u/Sirlothar · 2 pointsr/oculus

You most likely can plug the sensors into the USB2.0 ports and be ok. Don't use the 3.0 if they are incompatible, it will cause stuttering and your entire world inside the headset can shake or not update fast enough. It also will stop you from running the Oculus setup but you can skip that part and try it if you really want to use the 3.0 ports.

I have mine in my 2.0 ports and its working ok but I also ordered a USB 3.0 card. This is the card Oculus recommends: https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1541429905&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=Inateck+Superspeed+4+Ports+PCI-E&amp;amp;dpID=51ZO%252B9g92HL&amp;amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;amp;dpSrc=srch

u/Bob_Bushman · 2 pointsr/oculus

Sounds a lot like unreliable USB issues which go really wierd if they aren't so bad that the device can partially work.

A Hub isn't going to work here so need a USB 3.0 expansion board.

I have been using this https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=inateck+usb+3.0&amp;amp;qid=1557821083&amp;amp;s=gateway&amp;amp;sprefix=inateck&amp;amp;sr=8-4

For a little over a year for both cameras and HMD.

But first I would try disabling the CPU graphics.
There should be a hundred or five videos on how to do it, it varies with motherboard manufacturer.
There should really be 0 change of bricking anything, that hasn't been true for 15 years or so.

Also, is your PSU up to the task of a new more powerful GPU?

It could even cause issues for USB devices that require a lot o juice, the rift and cameras are much more power hungry than most other USB devices.

u/borekk · 2 pointsr/Vive

Don't know about case (probably just whatever works best for you) but I was having issues with my Vive camera working consistently. Bought one of these to dedicate the USB traffic and haven't had any issues since then.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=psdc_284717_t2_B00FPIMJEW

u/NomaD5 · 2 pointsr/oculus

If you look at the second link and search "oculus" in the reviews you'll find that it's pretty incompatible. I was recommended this one which is still on the cheaper side but seems to work fine for people (I haven't received mine yet). Only con is the color.

u/NX_s · 2 pointsr/Kappa

Hello.

I've had the exact same issue as you did. And I've solved it like this. You will need three things.

  • A USB 2.0 (3.0 will NOT work) card with VIA chipset on it. These first gen madcatz TE sticks will only work on windows if either your main board (extremely unlikely nowadays) supports this chipset OR you get an external card that has it.

    Personally, I'm using this one: amazon link

    However, this one might also work: amazon link

  • Second, since you're on Win10, you need to download and install this. It fixes a Windows 10 uhci issue, where devices that are not supported anymore (e.g. via usb 2.0 devices in this instance) would report to windows that they did startup, but in fact haven't.

  • When you did all of the above, you need to download xbox360ce and your stick will be recognized if you configure it as controller 1.
u/EnsErmac · 2 pointsr/StreetFighter

You have a different problem. You need to install this usb card

u/N0fe · 2 pointsr/SF4

Is it an older TE stick? I only recall older Xbox sticks having issues, the generation 1 sticks. I had a PS3 stick before, and got it to work on PC after a lot of headaches. To make mine work, I had to buy a PCI to USB 2.0 card with a VIA chipset on it. I didn't think Xbox sticks were affected by this problem, but I hope this information helps you. The pci cards themselves are fairly cheap, and you should be able to pick one up online.

Here's one for illustration's sake: notice the VIA branding on the chip.

Best of luck.

u/bigpook · 2 pointsr/headphones

I was having a similar issue with a first generation modi. Worked fine on a gigabyte motherboard with a FX8350 for about a year and half.
I did a new build with an intel i5 on a gigabyte motherboard and the modi was no longer recognized.
I am running linux and am using Ubuntu. Journalctl -f showed nothing when I plugged the modi in. Not seen at all.
I emailed Schiit tech support and they suggested a different cable and/or a powered usb hub. I tried all that and it still didn't work.
I should add that the Modi worked/works fine on my laptop, my FX8350 box and my windows work machine. There is something weird with gigabyte, socket 1151, intel ????

Don't know if there is also some weirdness with the USB implementation on the modi but I also have a audioengine D1 which uses the same DAC as the modi and it works with no issues.

Anyways, its all working great now. I used this:[Amazon]
(http://www.amazon.com/Syba-Port-Card-Components-SD-VIA-5U/dp/B000JFJZGG?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1&amp;amp;redirect=true&amp;amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00)

Thanks to LaiLaiHei for finally getting it to work.

u/TouchOfDoom · 2 pointsr/fightsticks

With the PS3 version, if you're unlucky and the stick doesn't work you need to buy one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JFJZGG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_dSEVAb4ZW0K96

Basically any pci card with usb 2.0 that has the VIA chipset.

And yes! The same stick for x360 works flawlessly on any PC.
You're welcome.

u/DZCreeper · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Board and CPU combo is good, enough single thread performance for the Minecraft server, enough multi thread for transcoding 3-4 1080p streams in Plex. (Rule of thumb is 2K passmark score per 10mb/s of video)

The board is just standard ATX size. It does only have 6 SATA ports, so you will need buy an HBA card to add more ports, or use fewer storage devices.

https://www.amazon.com/SAS9211-8I-8PORT-Int-Sata-Pcie/dp/B002RL8I7M

That card can handle 8 drives total, 4 per cable.

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Internal-SFF-8087-Breakout/dp/B012BPLYJC

PCPartPicker Part List

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU Cooler | ARCTIC Freezer 34 CO CPU Cooler | $31.95 @ Amazon
Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | $64.99 @ Newegg
Video Card | Zotac GeForce GT 1030 2 GB Video Card | $84.99 @ Newegg
Case | Antec Three Hundred Two ATX Mid Tower Case | $94.58 @ Walmart
Power Supply | SeaSonic FOCUS Gold 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply | $79.90 @ Amazon
Case Fan | ARCTIC ACFAN00119A 56.3 CFM 120 mm Fan | $8.52 @ Amazon
Case Fan | ARCTIC ACFAN00119A 56.3 CFM 120 mm Fan | $8.52 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $373.45
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-07-26 08:45 EDT-0400 |

CPU cooler to keep the CPU quiet. Bit of overclocking headroom if you want the extra performance. Compatible RAM. Basic GPU that will be able to handle any 4K 60Hz HEVC video decoding. Case with tons of storage room. Efficient power supply for low noise, and a long warranty. Extra 120mm fans for front intakes, to keep the storage cool.

u/Thaurane · 2 pointsr/windows

Try an LSI raid controller https://www.amazon.com/SAS9211-8I-8PORT-Int-Sata-Pcie/dp/B002RL8I7M/ref=sr_1_2?crid=P5PBSXR61CYV&amp;amp;keywords=lsi+raid+controller&amp;amp;qid=1569558454&amp;amp;sprefix=lsi%2Caps%2C171&amp;amp;sr=8-2

You will also need these https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Internal-SFF-8087-Breakout/dp/B012BPLYJC/ref=pd_bxgy_147_img_2/136-5105212-8833038?_encoding=UTF8&amp;amp;pd_rd_i=B012BPLYJC&amp;amp;pd_rd_r=89475179-7e61-4fe7-915a-198096ed13b8&amp;amp;pd_rd_w=QQkz9&amp;amp;pd_rd_wg=B6Ezg&amp;amp;pf_rd_p=479b6a22-70ae-47a0-9700-731033f96ce8&amp;amp;pf_rd_r=0A6F6Y69MVNJQX5XC257&amp;amp;psc=1&amp;amp;refRID=0A6F6Y69MVNJQX5XC257

Be sure to back up the data on your current raid because they will get formatted. After installing it you will see different boot process from the card when starting up your computer. It should tell you to hit ctrl-h (I think). After that just read carefully, choose your hard drives that you want to combine and choose the raid you want. After that boot your computer normally and install the software I linked below. Be sure to extract it before installing and use the complete installation. It might give you a login screen for the software. It will request your window's login credentials. I was wary of it at first too but its what it wants. My memory is a bit fuzzy. But I believe this is where you finish setting up the raid for windows to be able to format it.

I'm using an LSI Logic SAS9260-4I for raid 6. The only issue I've had with it is while I was installing windows I had to disconnect it. But once that was done once I reconnected it and moved on like normal.

edit: Went to the website for you and searched for the card's software management https://docs.broadcom.com/docs/12354760 that should be it.

edit2: added more information.

u/EvanTrow · 2 pointsr/homelab

Yea, my system is running Unraid with a few VMs then dockers for Plex, and some other utilities.


My issue is that I have very slow read/write speed to my drive array because I am going though the PERC 6/i card. My plan is to switch it out with a HBA card for direct access to the drives instead of going through the RAID card.
https://www.amazon.com/SAS9211-8I-8PORT-Int-Sata-Pcie/dp/B002RL8I7M

u/Berzerker7 · 2 pointsr/DataHoarder

Something like this, but bought on eBay for cheaper and flashed to IT mode to just "passthrough" the drives to the OS and not do any management by itself.

And a couple of these to connect your hard drives. :)

u/tanookiben · 2 pointsr/DataHoarder

I've seen some "LSI" cards/controllers thrown around on this sub, would this one work?

u/spudlyo · 2 pointsr/homelab

So if you look at the R720 Owner's Manual, you'll see that there are two SATA ports on the board. One is labeled J_SATA_CD and one is J_SATA_TBU, numbered 2, and 3 respectively. These are both standard SATA ports, but they're unfortunately SATA II, so only 3Gb/s. There is also a spot on the board listed as J_SAS_PCH (24) which you can plug in a SFF-8087 breakout cable into to give you an additional 4 SATA connections. This port is attached to the built in S110 "RAID" controller. This is sadly also SATA II.

You can buy a SAS9211-8i card for under $100 that will allow you to connect 8 SATA III devices (you'll need a breakout cable), but you'll have to figure out how to power those internal 2.5" SSDs -- I didn't have to. I already had an m.2 SATA SSD, so I bought StarTech PCI card which has two m.2 SATA slots on it. Because this thing is bus powered, I didn't have to worry about how to power it.

u/ast3r3x · 2 pointsr/DataHoarder

Amazon changed the link on me. I just grabbed it from my order history which was LSI Logic at the time. Perhaps they don't have any renewed ones to sell at the moment? Either way, to buy from them it is only $10 more. Looking back, when I purchased it, I only paid $50.

u/BraindeadOne · 2 pointsr/burstcoin

The maximum bandwidth after overhead for usb 3.0 is around 500 Mbyte/second. With 28 drives thats a maximum of 14Mbyte/second per drive.
If you want to get totally serious (and want to invest), you could get one of these: https://www.backblaze.com/blog/open-source-data-storage-server/

Otherwise use smaller hubs and pcie-cards for more usb3-ports, or get some of those: https://www.amazon.com/SAS9211-8I-8PORT-Int-Sata-Pcie/dp/B002RL8I7M

u/AK-Brian · 2 pointsr/Amd

Which Quad M.2 adapter are you intending to use, specifically?

If you're wanting four NVMe M.2 drives, a typical passthrough style adapter (eg, requiring bifurcation) will be using 16 PCI Express lanes (4x4). This means that on an X470 board, the only slot it can occupy is the primary (top) slot, and you will not be able to use the secondary (x8 electrical) slot without disabling half of the NVMe M.2 drives on that adapter card. With a RocketRAID in your x4 slot, this means you'll either be running with no GPU or have it plugged into the second PCI Express x1 slot (as the Quad M.2 card will block the use of the first x1 slot). Not exactly ideal.

If it's a card using the ASMedia 2824 as a PLX switch from 4x4 to x8, it would work in the secondary slot (with GPU at x8 in the primary slot) but raises the question of whether it's worth it. The few cards like this on the market tend to be expensive, and additionally you'll be limited to about 7.5GB/s of total bandwidth at x8, largely defeating the purpose of utilizing four drives unless raw capacity is your goal. Some of these will expose drives to the BIOS, others will present as a device and require card firmware to manage things like RAID creation. Again, depends on the model.

For high capacity flash storage at still quite reasonable speed, it's (annoyingly) tough to beat SATA. Instead of 4x2TB NVMe M.2 drives on an expensive adapter, you could use a $50-75 SAS expansion card such as the LSI 9211-8i (in RAID or IT mode with a reflash) to connect 8x2TB or 8x4TB SATA SSDs.

u/PM_ME_YOUR_PARTYHAT · 2 pointsr/HomeServer

I was torn on it too, but I also liked I could have 8 3.5" drives and 4 2.5" drives if I wanted. All I'd need is a HBA card like the LSI Logic
SAS9211-8I
(amazon.com) to run 8 HDD's plus onboard SATA ports. I also liked I could use the m-ATX and not be limited by the m-ITX as well. Most everything in my case is around 25-30c at any given time.

u/eponerine · 2 pointsr/sysadmin

S2D does not work with RAID-presented drives unless you hack up the registry to allow for any type of device to be allowed in the storage pool (probably the command you're speaking of).

Unless you are dirt-broke, I don't advise going down this path. You're gonna run into all types of storage issues due to the RAID controller doing it's own caching, etc.

I've used these cards in production and sandbox. I believe they're even on the MSFT HCL: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002RL8I7M/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1

How many servers? If only 2, you should get some Mellanox Connectx-3 Pro's and just cross-connect between the servers. 10GbE switches (with or without PFC and all the other RoCE-required stuff) isn't cheap. I've gotten 2x ancient Dell R515 pushing over 250,000 IOPS with just HDD+SSD (no journal NVMe drives).

u/knollexx · 2 pointsr/buildapc

The only thing you can do is buy a PCI card with USB 3.0 connectors, as the internal ones come with the mainboard and cannot be changed.

Something like this.

u/gzunk · 2 pointsr/buildapc

The USB 2.0 ports are provided by the Z68 chipset, the USB 3.0 ports are provided by an ASM1042 controller attached to the PCIE bus.

It could be that the chipset USB controller has died, and if that's the case there's nothing you can do about it. If you're running out of ports you could try an AIC USB card like this or just use a USB hub.

u/Spread_Liberally · 2 pointsr/Portland

Another cheap solution is buying a cheap USB add-in car (like this), and see if you have the same issue. If you have the same troubles with another card, it's a win 10 or driver issue. If not, then BIOS or mobo.

If this problem came across my desk, that's exactly how I'd handle it (after updating the BIOS). Easy and quick, if you already have a known-good test card :)

u/Bad_Toast · 2 pointsr/oculus
  1. You're fine. The motherboard has 2 usb 3.0 and your case has another 2 usb 3.0 for a total of 4. Rift only needs 3 (2 if you skip oculus touch) USB 3.0 and 1 USB 2.0. You've got a total of 4 USB 2.0 and 4 USB 3.0. Adding a usb keyboard and mouse, you've still got 1 USB 3.0 and 1 USB 2.0 free. If you need more usb ports, you can add an expansion card like this (not an endorsement, just the first one I found): http://www.amazon.com/Anker%C2%AE-Express-Connector-Desktops-Chipset/dp/B005ARQV6U

  2. Either spend a little extra money on a motherboard that allows overclocking, or save the money and just get the i5 6600 (K = more money, unlocked for overclocking). I don't think overclocking is worth it (more heat, more expensive cooler, more expensive CPU, more expensive motherboard, more time spent fiddling with system and not gaming, etc.). The bottleneck in video game performance is probably going to be your video card anyway.

  3. I suggest you check out r/buildapcsales. That's pretty expensive for a GTX 970. You can find a decent factory OC'd one for $300 and a reference (slower and louder) one for $270. At $326 for the 970, you're getting very close to the sale price of an AMD 390x (one was available for $340 2 weeks ago), which performs somewhere in between a GTX 970 and a GTX 980. You're (probably) going to be waiting on your Rift anyway, so there's no harm in shopping around for a good deal.

  4. If you can scrounge up the money, I'd definitely recommend you add an SSD. Your games won't be prettier, but you'll spend a lot less time loading and a lot less time booting up.
u/stouty214 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Your back usb ports will be fine/run at 3.0. Your motherboard looks like you have a PCe 2.0 x1 port which this should work , or something similar as long as you have the extra room on you psu http://www.amazon.com/Anker®-Express-Connector-Desktops-Chipset/dp/B005ARQV6U

u/NSDCars5 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005ARQV6U/ref=cm_sw_su_dp

I think OP is talking about something like this.

u/OhNoItsGodzirrah · 2 pointsr/computers

Yeah, something like that card in your edit will work. If you can purchase off Amazon though, this is a much better deal.

All you need to do is plug it into the black slot from your picture, and connect a 4-pin Molex connector to it. You should have at least one extra connector laying around in there.

u/FedExPope · 2 pointsr/buildapc
u/GaryJS3 · 2 pointsr/homelab

I've seen it recognized in Proxmox and Windows 10, but haven't fully tested yet. Bought it back in 2014 but it didn't work for my desktop back then. It has an atx power input but you don't need it for data only or low power devices.

this is it: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ARQV6U/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1

u/SwallowRP · 2 pointsr/oculus

Ahh, thanks for the info!

I just installed this one the other night but had issues getting it to work. Seems like the one you linked might be better; still doesn't have a seperate chip for each interface so using a USB 2.0 device could cause the entire thing to slow down to 2.0 speeds:

http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ARQV6U

Since the above one I bought could be DOA I'll return it and get the one you linked!

Edit: "From what I've read about my card, the card only has enough power for ONE USB slot to be at full 3.0 speed at a time. If you use more than one (mine has four), then it slows down. I imagine that's why it isn't compatible. I wish I would have known that when I got it last week..."

Yup, definitely returning the one I got.

u/Martelol · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Pretty much this.

As for your not-enough-sata-ports issue, you'll need an internal pcie card or a usb-&gt;sata adapter.

Card: http://www.amazon.com/Crest-Port-SATA-PCI-Express-SY-PEX40039/dp/B005B0A6ZS/

Adapter: http://www.amazon.com/Anker%C2%AE-Converter-Adapter-Cable-included/dp/B005B3VO24/

There's really zero reason to go the USB adapter route though, at that point you might as well just get an external dvd drive: http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Portable-External-SE-218CB-RSBS/dp/B00DBV28TG/

u/sivartk · 2 pointsr/PleX

If you have any open PCIe slots you can always add more SATA ports. I'd just be careful about swapping into a non-Dell case. It can be done but it is kind of ugly (you can see the front panel inside and the power button as a periscope 😀) Although I did later clean it up. If figure when I add a few more drives, I'll upgrade everything. Still have about 6TB of free space so that will take a while to fill up.

u/HeavyHDx · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

An SSD on SATA 2 will still be vastly faster than a mechanical hard drive. Plus, you can just continue using it when you finally upgrade the rest of the PC, these things don't really break. But yeah, ideally you'd want SATA 3. If you really wanted to keep the board, you could just get a PCIe SATA 3 card:

http://www.amazon.com/IO-Crest-Port-PCI-Express-SY-PEX40039/dp/B005B0A6ZS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1459233631&amp;amp;sr=8-2&amp;amp;keywords=pcie+sata+3

Or something more fancy like this:

http://www.amazon.com/SEDNA-Express-PCIe-Adapter-included/dp/B00UFPJAS8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1459233631&amp;amp;sr=8-3&amp;amp;keywords=pcie+sata+3

This will give you the full speeds for your SSD, as well as another SATA 3 port. Much cheaper than upgrading your mainboard just for the ports.

u/kcehlers · 2 pointsr/PCBuilds

IIRC SATA (data) cables can’t be split. If you’re talking about just the SATA power cable, I wouldn’t worry about anything. If you’re talking about data, I ran into this same issue a while back. Found a pci-e card with two sata ports on it pretty cheap and it worked right out of the box. I believe this is the one I have.

https://www.amazon.com/IO-Crest-2-port-Controller-SY-PEX40039/dp/B005B0A6ZS

u/silvenga · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

Can't find the exact bug reports - but this report is very similar (http://www.spinics.net/lists/linux-ide/msg50075.html).

I noticed, when I attached a monitor to the server, that the console was filled with hard resetting link and failed command messages from the drives that were connected to the SATA controller. This caused the drives to downgrade to SATA1. Checking the logs, this has been happening for the past year (when I installed the controller). I tried both moving disks around and swapping the cords, but the errors continued to randomly occur.

Looking around, I found a guy's blog post about the same issues with a server RAID card (and his journey through multiple SATA controllers). This lead me to a couple of Debian and RedHat tickets with similar issues (which I can't find). Many Marvell controllers were reported to have this issue. In the end, I was able to correlate errors with whenever smartd ran SMART tests (every night), but only the first time after a reboot.

I went through a couple of controllers myself, but ended with this one, using the Asmedia 1061 controller. I was having issues with many of the 4-port controllers, so I settled with multiple 2 port controllers (I only needed 10 SATA ports). No issues ever since.

u/largepanda · 2 pointsr/linuxquestions

Using this card with Linux seems to be a very mixed bag of results.

If it's still within the return period you might just return it and get one with a different chipset.

u/Lehk · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

you need a reader that connects to a 20 pin header

https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-3-5-Inch-Internal-Reader-CR-UIN3/dp/B01D31V2L8/

if you don't have a free 20 pin header you will also need a PCIE USB card that has one.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007SJGGAE/

u/podboi · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Just means your motherboard doesn't have a USB3 header so you can't plug in the front USB 3 ports, so they won't be functional.

If you want the front USB3 ports to work you need this so you can plug the internal wire to your motherboard.

u/koenistigg · 2 pointsr/buildapc

This is the top rated one on amazon. Don't really have any experience with one so I can only help with my simple googling skills.

u/senorroboto · 2 pointsr/buildapc

You could buy a USB 3.0 PCIe card with an internal front port plug

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Uspeed-Express-20-pin-Connector/dp/B007SJGGAE/

u/Jaybains95 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Build:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor | £173.94 @ Aria PC
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler | £24.97 @ Amazon UK
Motherboard | MSI Z97-G55 SLI ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | £93.82 @ Aria PC
Memory | Crucial Ballistix Sport XT 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | £66.04 @ More Computers
Storage | Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | £79.00 @ Amazon UK
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | £62.95 @ Amazon UK
Video Card | MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card | £280.00 @ Aria PC
Case | Thermaltake Chaser A31 ATX Mid Tower Case | £59.78 @ Amazon UK
Power Supply | XFX 550W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | £46.99 @ Amazon UK
Optical Drive | LG BH16NS40.AUAR10B 16x SATA Internal BD-RW Retail Kit | £90.00 @ Amazon
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) | £0.00
Monitor | Asus VN248H 23.8" Monitor | £192.79 @ Amazon UK
Wireless Network Adapter | TP-Link TL-WN881ND 802.11b/g/n PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter | £12.75 @ Amazon UK
Keyboard | Cherry G80-3850LYBGB-2 Wired Standard Keyboard | £55.24 @ Amazon UK
Mouse | Gigabyte GM-M6900 Wired Optical Mouse | £16.99
Speakers | M-Audio Studiophile AV30 20W 2ch Speakers | £89.00
Other| Dell 1905fp Monitor| £0.00
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | £1344.26
| *Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria |
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-01-16 16:28 GMT+0000 |

Two questions:

  1. I want to add a card reader to my build, and I'm 99% sure that I'll be going with this one. I'm assuming that because because I'm using the USB header for the front of my case, I'll need to get a PCI-e card like this one to get the USB3.0 speeds on the card reader?

  2. Other than my shitty second monitor, what do you think will be the first/next thing that will require upgrading? I want to get an i7 in the future but I'm fine with what I have right now - but I do the occasional video editing and I think it'd help.
u/Gc13psj · 2 pointsr/oculus

Yeap a lot of the pic-e adaptors have the pins you can plug into, but again you'll be limited to bandwidth http://www.amazon.com/Anker%C2%AE-Uspeed-Express-20-pin-Connector/dp/B007SJGGAE/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1450506156&amp;amp;sr=8-7&amp;amp;keywords=usb+3+pci+card

Or you could get a USB 2 pin to USB 3 pin converter.

Also I would highly recommend getting a 5.25" one instead, you're getting way more functionality from them. http://www.amazon.co.uk/5-25%C2%A1%C2%B1-Desktop-Computer-Reader-Built-/dp/B013GDW24E/ref=sr_1_46?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1450506793&amp;amp;sr=8-46&amp;amp;keywords=5.25+sd+card+reader

u/bwat47 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

all else fails you could get something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Anker%C2%AE-Uspeed-Express-20-pin-Connector/dp/B007SJGGAE

Plugs into a PCI-E slot and has a connector for the USB 3 header

u/Ni8sWatch · 2 pointsr/htpc

You can use a pci-e card with front header connections. You can buy a cheap SSD and graphic card which should be good enough for media streaming and stuff.

u/whitefeather14 · 2 pointsr/buildapcforme

For your USB problems this should do the trick, or at least something similar. Plugs into the short pci-e x1 slots on your motherboard. http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B007SJGGAE/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1417369559&amp;amp;sr=8-3&amp;amp;pi=AC_SY200_QL40
It adds a USB 3 header to plug your case into.

u/wrathfulgrapes · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Bbalkenn is correct... either use an adapter and plug it into USB 2.0, or buy an internal usb 3.0 PCI card.

You can get one with or without USB ports on the back of the card.

u/ilike2weldshitogethr · 2 pointsr/vmware

I thought id update you - I finally got it to work (on the latest ESXI)! No need to pass through the entire controller, I can assign USB ports as needed.

Using this card - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007SJGGAE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1

I did have to revery back to the legacy USB drivers:
https://kb.vmware.com/s/article/2147650

u/peareater · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Build complete!

I ultimately decided to buy the ASUS board and replace the CPU cooler while I was at it. A few caveats about the Sabertooth X58:

  1. If you want the X58, consider a case with USB 2.0 ports on the front panel. The Cooler Master HAF 922 only has USB 3.0 ports, which are meant to connect to the motherboard with a 20-pin connector. The X58 lacks a port for this type of connector, so I will have to install something like this Anker Uspeed card if I want to use the front USB ports.

  2. The first two SATA ports on the board are 6 Gb/s, but they are on a separate Marvell controller, which by all accounts is absolute garbage. I am using the 3 Gb/s ports, which are on an Intel controller, and those seem fast enough for me. I disabled the Marvell in the BIOS.

  3. Make sure to switch your storage mode to AHCI if you want to get the most out of your SATA drives. The BIOS defaults to IDE mode. (And the ASUS manual is mostly useless because it doesn't tell you anything you can't already infer from the names of the BIOS settings.)

  4. You need to manually configure the boot order of your hard disks, otherwise it will try the wrong disk and fail to find your OS. I had a moment of panic because I forgot that my boot partition is not on my SSD but rather on the original HDD that came with my Dell.

    Personally, I think these are minor issues as long as you're aware of them. And now that I've told you, you are :)

    The 5800 series does not require Dell-specific drivers. In fact, Windows 7 detected and installed drivers for pretty much all my hardware on boot. It took a couple reboots to get everything installed.

    Final tally:

u/BrutalGoerge · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

http://amzn.com/B007SJGGAE I won't install it til this weekend though.

u/CollateralFortune · 2 pointsr/homelab

If you want brand new, there's this

eBay too

For used, if you want to flash it (super easy), you can pick up an H200. Keep in mind you want ones with internal SAS ports like this, not external.

u/Covecube-Christopher · 2 pointsr/DataHoarder

Cheap? $100-150 is going to be cheap. Anything cheaper, is shitty and you will have issues.

And fuck crossflashing. Get one of these: https://www.amazon.com/LSI-9207-8i-Storage-Controller-LSI00301/dp/B0085FT2JC

u/exodius06 · 2 pointsr/DataHoarder

I think the budget may be what ends up deciding it. I don't want to go with something that is going to be too slow though. I am using the storage area for my Plex media if that matters.

This the LSI HBA I've found so far and from what I see they're both 6Gb/s so I'm not seeing the advantage.

For the motherboard I didn't really notice any difference in my power bill when I starting using this one so I've never thought too much about it. Can you give me an example of a board you're talking about? The only thing that's ever been a little annoying with this box has been how loud it can be.

This is the case I'm using if that helps.

u/tigershadowclaw · 2 pointsr/homelabsales

In order to use the drive at full link speed (SAS3) you would need something like this: https://www.amazon.com/LSI-Broadcom-9300-8i-PCI-Express-Profile/dp/B00DSURZYS and this cable to go with it (for a desktop anyhow): https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-Internal-SFF-8643-SFF-8482-connectors/dp/B01F378UF6

if you don't care about getting the full 12Gb/s from it you can go with the cheaper LSI-9207-8i controller ( https://www.amazon.com/LSI-Logic-9207-8i-Controller-LSI00301/dp/B0085FT2JC ) and this cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013G4FEGG/ which would allow you to get 6Gb/s which is the current max SATA speeds anyhow. (SATA1 is 1.5Gb/s, SATA2 is 3Gb/s, and SATA3 is 6Gb/s while SAS1 is 3Gb/s, SAS2 is 6Gb/s and SAS3 is 12Gb/s

u/logikgear · 2 pointsr/freenas

Here is the HBA I use with FreeNAS.

LSI Logic SAS 9207-8i Storage Controller LSI00301 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0085FT2JC/

You will also need these to connect drives to that card.
Cable Matters Internal Mini SAS to SATA Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012BPLYJC/

u/Dopamin3 · 2 pointsr/DataHoarder

CT16G4WFD8266 edit: also make sure to only run it in pairs of two. Odd numbered ECC does not work well, if at all in Ryzen for whatever reason.

&amp;#x200B;

I'm running 4 of these sticks in an Asrock X370 Taichi and Ryzen 1700 (another user reported they work with the 2700X and another board). First boot, ECC was enabled and automatically set to 2666mhz.

&amp;#x200B;

Generally most Asus/Asrock motherboards have great support for ECC. I wouldn't be too concerned on the number of SATA ports though and would opt for higher quality motherboard like the aforementioned Asrock Rack or the X370 Taichi (12k capacitors, debug LED, stupid strong VRM, 10 SATA ports). With any board though you can always add an HBA like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0085FT2JC/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=A3SCB8M3AWX80L&amp;psc=1

&amp;#x200B;

last edit: Taichi is ATX, you're looking for MicroATX. Definitely if you're not going the Asrock Rack route (IPMI is a nice selling feature) I would opt for the B450M Steel Legend. It has THE highest build quality of any consumer MicroATX board on AM4.

u/meyerjaw · 2 pointsr/PleX

Yeah, it wasn't cheap but I'm hoping this NAS will last for years so I was willing to spend the money. This is the RAID Card that I got along with this SAS Expander

u/jppowers · 2 pointsr/DataHoarder

This is what I bought building my new rig: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0085FT2JC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1

I paid less than the current price listed there. Shop around for the LSI 9207-8i, it's best bang for the buck HBA that's new in box I've found.

u/TimeTravellerSmith · 2 pointsr/buildapc

You can skip the RAID and just get a SATA expansion card if it's the number of ports your worried about.

You'd only want a RAID card if you're going to be doing RAID setups that aren't natively supported by your mobo.

u/Fiberton · 2 pointsr/zfs

https://www.amazon.com/IO-Crest-Controller-Non-Raid-SI-PEX40064/dp/B00AZ9T3OU/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=IO+Crest+4+Port+SATA+III+PCI-e+2.0+x1+Controller+Card+Marvell+Non-Raid+with+Low+Profile+Bracket+SI-PEX40064&amp;qid=1566925845&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-1 shove one of these cheap ones in. Plug some new drives to it. Start replacing the drives. Once 4 of the drives replaced just power down and pull the other drives out if that is what you need to do. Then finish the rest or get two of those cheap cards.

u/095179005 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Nope. Electricity works that way, data doesn't.

https://i.imgur.com/zBSFsfj.png

You will need to plug the 960 EVO into the top most M.2 slot, labelled M.2_3

That will leave you with 7 SATA ports.

You will then need a PCIe to SATA card, to give you the extra 2 ports you need.

https://www.amazon.com/IO-Crest-Controller-Non-Raid-SI-PEX40064/dp/B00AZ9T3OU

You'll plug it into the PCIe_4 slot.

u/ctrlaltd1337 · 2 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

I have a server motherboard with SAS -&gt; SATA ports so I can plug in one of these and get 4x SATA ports from one port. For power, I use these power splitters that allow me to neatly add power to a column of HDDs. I run one of the splitters per power line from the PSU. Before I had a server motherboard, I used this PCIE SATA card.

u/Singular_Brane · 2 pointsr/hackintosh

pci Sata ports

pci extension

Then you can always get a pci ssd adapter.

u/mvillar24 · 2 pointsr/DataHoarder

How many PCIe lanes do you have free? Do you have a PCIe slot with 8 lanes, 4 lanes, or just 1?

If you only got a short 1 lane slot free, just get one of those JBOD 4 port SATA cards:
(http://www.amazon.com/IO-Crest-Controller-Non-Raid-SI-PEX40064/dp/B00AZ9T3OU)

If you got a 4 lane or 8 lane slot slot, there is a version that used 2x lanes.

3Gbps SATA is fast enough for spinning hard drives.

If you need eight SATA ports, start considering used SAS controllers for around $100. Those controllers come in 4x and 8x lane configurations.

As for power consumption, what is the brand/model of your 650W power supply? A good 650W PSU can handle 24+ drives. A bad one is going to give you intermittent problems.

u/Big_Papi_Knows · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

I have one of these that has worked well for me. I think there are better performance devices out there, but for a HDD that's just storing media for me it has worked like a charm.

IO Crest 4 Port SATA III PCI-e 2.0 x1 Controller Card Marvell Non-Raid with Low Profile Bracket SI-PEX40064 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AZ9T3OU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_FUw-BbJYBQTGS

u/daemen · 2 pointsr/freenas

Like the other commenters have said, you don't want a RAID card, but either an HBA or SATA expansion card.

Here's a 4-port on on amazon.es

There's plenty of reviews of the same model on amazon.com saying it works out-of-the-box with FreeNAS.

u/doggxyo · 2 pointsr/HomeNAS

I used this thing. This one only gets you four SATA ports, but there are other models that'll get you more. I chose this one because of the price and I didn't want the card to add any sort of hardware RAID. I wanted to just add more ports and pass the disks to FreeNAS for RAID.

I believe Dell makes two kinds of OptiPlex's. Small form factor and Large form factor. Mine was the LFF. I'm not sure about the differences in motherboards between the two.


If I recall correctly, I put this card into the 1 PCIe 16 slot, leaving (2?) more available PCIe ports.

u/c0deater · 2 pointsr/hackintosh

heres another one at half the price, however it appears to only work with windows... ill keep looking though
edit: forgot link, heres another one alsohttp://www.amazon.com/IO-Crest-Profile-Bracket-SI-PEX40064/dp/B00AZ9T3OU/ref=sr_1_39?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1382827898&amp;sr=1-39&amp;keywords=pcie+to+sata+3



http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16815287028



and another: http://www.amazon.com/IO-Crest-HyperDuo-Brackets-SI-PEX40057/dp/B00AZ9T264/ref=sr_1_47?s=pc&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1382828245&amp;amp;sr=1-47&amp;amp;keywords=pcie+to+sata+3




heres my amazon search for the amazon links: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=sr_pg_3?rh=n%3A172282%2Cn%3A541966%2Cn%3A193870011%2Cn%3A3012291011%2Cn%3A284718%2Ck%3Apcie+to+sata+3&amp;amp;page=3&amp;amp;sort=price&amp;amp;keywords=pcie+to+sata+3&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1382828285

u/AFellowOfLimitedJest · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Just finished my first build, and realised I need more SATA III ports than the 2 on my GA-AB350M-Gaming-3.
In lieu of a motherboard change, I'm looking to add more with a PCI-e card.

Am I right in thinking that this "Syba SI-PEX40064 SATA III 4 Port PCI-e x1 Controller Card" will:

a) fit into a PCI Express x16 slot, running at x4 (PCIEX4) (PCI Express 2.0 standard) on the GA-AB350M-Gaming-3?
b) work just like SATA III ports on the motherboard (same speed, function)?

2 SSDs are already attached to the 2 SATA III ports on the motherboard.
I intend to attach 2 old HDDS (1.5 TB + 500 GB, 5900 rpm Sata III 6 Gb/s) to the card, and another SSD in the future.

u/Jordanl91 · 2 pointsr/PleX

How many PCIE slots do you have open? You can always just get one of these
IO Crest 4-port SATA III PCIe 2.0 x2 Controller Card Green, SI-PEX40064 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AZ9T3OU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3fkRAbD3HN5GJ
Rebuild your case if you don’t have enough space and get hot swappable 3.5 bays. It all just depends on budget and what you want / have.

u/darkslyde27 · 2 pointsr/unRAID

i/o crest works wonders, it's x1, 4 sata III ports that be had at $35. I/O Crest SI-PEX40064 i'm sure you can find them cheaper.

&amp;#x200B;

they are also known as SYBA SI-PEX40064 aka. IOCrest IO-PCE9215-4I
(from unraid HW comp list: 4 port, PCIex1, SATA III, Marvell 88SE9215, bootable, working out of the box, supports drives &gt; 2.2 TB)


I use that on my low power box with four 2TB wd greens and don't have any issues. if you want to go with something better, SAS2008/LSI 9201/9211 HBA card on IT MODE is the clear cut winner for ease and compatibility. cons: they're a little more expensive ($65 + price of cables).

u/GeekMania · 2 pointsr/PleX

With regards to additional sata connections, a SAS backplane to A HBA card is out the question at the moment but to start with would something like this be fine to use:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Network-Interface-Cards/Syba-PCI-e-Controller-Profile-Brackets/B00AZ9T3OU

If so would it be fine to connect the drives that plex use to that or will that cause issues with the plex server? (if im watching something on a hdd connected to the pci card and my partner wants to watch something else on the ipad but that is on a different hdd also connected to the pci card)

u/manifest3r · 2 pointsr/unRAID

I have a 4-port PCI-e expansion card, using it without any issues on 2 1TB drives, and 1 500GB drive. Model number is SI-PEX40064.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AZ9T3OU/

u/shiggitay · 2 pointsr/hackintosh

I've used several SATA PCI-E x1 cards in my hacks. Ppl on TMx86 can tell you what ones work, but here's one I got recently and it works great: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AZ9T3OU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1. There's also an 8 port version but it's like $90... of which wasn't in my budget when I got it.

u/Silent_Gemini · 2 pointsr/burstcoin

IO Crest 8 Port Sata using the Marvell 88SE9705 chipset
Would not recognize all of the drives, further researched pointed to the Windows Driver issues.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ESFEI2E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s03?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1


Ableconn PEX10-SAT 10 Port SATA
This card is a work horse, I have had no issues with it under Windows 10. Chipset ASMedia ASM1062 + 2x JMicron JMB575
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0177GBY0Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1


IO Crest 4-port SATA III PCIe
Chipset Marvell 88SE9215
I am running two of these cards with out issue with Windows 10
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AZ9T3OU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1

u/cakepodharry · 2 pointsr/burstcoin

Nope. The single connector on that cable is a SFF-8087 SAS Connector (NOT a SATA connector which your motherboard will have!).

SAS (Serial Attached SCSI, server grade / enterprise) controllers are backwards-compatible with SATA (Serial ATA, "mainstream" / consumer) Drives, but SATA is not forwards-compatible with SAS. If you have a SAS Controller, yes you can hook up 4 drives to a single SAS port, but if you have SAS Drives (And for this purpose that cable can be thought of as turning your drives into SAS Drives even though technically it really isn't) you can't connect them to a SATA Controller.

SAS Controllers are server-grade gear, and come in at several hundreds of dollars for the "cheap" ones.

Get a cheap HBA (Host Bus Adapter) card to go in a PCIe port, like the ones everyone else is suggesting.

This one is 4 port and (allegedly) has hot swap support (no rebooting when plugging / unplugging drives) which your motherboard probably won't have (Some nice ones do though):
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00AZ9T3OU/
But I'm sure you could find cheaper.

u/snowmiserVR · 2 pointsr/oculus

Really sorry to hear you are having issues, that sucks. Ignoring any possible hardware issues with your USB you could try mounting 2 of your rift cameras in the exact same position as Vive ones would be. You said it was a smaller space so the tracking distance should be fine in that case. It is very important (in my opinion) that you don't have them facing directly at each other like you would do with the Vive. Have them aimed just a tiny bit offset from each other. Think of it as assigning one half of the room to one of the sensors to track but you still want there to be a lot of overlap so just a small offset. Then put your 3rd sensor lower down in one of the 2 remaining corners of the room facing directly to the center of your place space. I did a lot of testing with various sensor setups and this has got me the best tracking and as close to Vive quality as I can get (I have both headsets so I am able to easily compare the two as I try out various Rift setups).

Some other minor things to consider would be to check for any large reflective surfaces in your room (other than your monitor(s)) and try to remove those if there are any. Also If you have any windows in your play space be sure to have the blinds down and closed so no direct sunlight is coming in when playing.

If after trying all this you still have crappy tracking then it's probably a USB hardware issue and in that case I am not sure what to do. Oculus recommends this, but I have never tried it and cannot comment on its quality. Maybe others here have tried it and can chime in. Your final option is to just sell it all and get a Vive. I wouldn't blame you after having such a difficult time with the Rift.

u/zid · 1 pointr/SF4

It isn't specifically 'Intel' chipset that matters, it's UHCI support. Which older Intel chipsets (ICH series) support, along with some via chips, etc.

My friend had no UHCI support so I picked out a plug-in card from amazon for him for a few dollars.

Anything with a VIA VT62xx (VT6202 / VT6212) chip should work. Something like this

u/wutitdopikachu · 1 pointr/killerinstinct

I have an original PS3 TE stick and it works with windows 10. The issue for me was USB. Apparently the original TE stick doesn't work with more modern USB, so I bought a USB card. This is the one I used. I think the VIA chip is key.

It wont work natively with KI, though...you'll have to use some third party software to get it to working (same for SF5 for that matter).

u/urbanchrome · 1 pointr/fightsticks

Try this one out. Ever since I got that, I have had no issues using my MadCatz SFIV TE Stick on my PC. Heads up though, you literally have to unplug &gt; plug the usb cable into the slot every time you open your PC for it to work. I figured it was a small constraint compared to the benefit I'd get moving forward as I have 2 japanese arcade sticks that I got for my PS3.

u/iwantkoohii · 1 pointr/StreetFighter

I bought a used PS3 TE1 on craiglists. Great condition for $90. Owner got SFV on the PC but couldn't get it to work. Still got it anyways and did some research. From what I found out it seems that the ps3 te1 hasn't been working on the pc since the sfiv days for many. It has to do with the UHCI USB 1.1 that many newer motherboards don't have. Only option for many is a hardware workaround which is a usb pci card. I got this one http://www.amazon.com/Syba-Port-Card-Components-SD-VIA-5U/dp/B000JFJZGG?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1&amp;amp;redirect=true&amp;amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00. It's been working fine since with joy2key. Hope that helps.

Edit: If you are going to get any USB pci cards make sure it's of the VIA chipset. Those are the ones that the ps3 te1 will work with.

u/pantherbrujah · 1 pointr/fightsticks

Look at this!!!

&gt; This Syba SD-VIA-5U 4 port USB 2.0 pci 2.0 card adds 4 USB 2.0 ports, One shared internal USB 2.0 A port and 4 external USB 2.0 port, to your PCI-capable PC. The PCI USB 2.0 card is a versatile solution that lets you add USB 2.0 connections without having to upgrade the system motherboard. An all-in-one solution, the PCI USB card supports USB 2.0 device connections for full data transfer speeds of up to 480Mbps, and is backward compatible with USB 1.1 devices (max. transfer rate 12Mbps), allowing you to connect any USB device to the computer without having to worry about compatibility issues.

Oh man this looks great...

&gt;Driver CD (for Windows ME, 98SE, Linux and Mac OS)

oh.

However the amazon listing claims

&gt; Plug and Play Installation for Windows 7, Vista and XP

so maybe take that plunge?
Worst case scenario its $10


u/7x13 · 1 pointr/fightsticks

If it's anything like my SF4 SE stick you'll need a USB card (I use this) with an an old Intel chip(driver or something) and Joy2key.

u/computix · 1 pointr/techsupport

Yes, your board has two legacy PCI slots that you can use for this. You can still get VIA chip based USB 2.0 cards quite easily. Ex.

u/SweetsourNostradamus · 1 pointr/bapcsalescanada

This may provide some insight. If this really is the case, here's a solution to give you PC some USB 2.0 ports that you could potentially try.

u/PriceKnight · 1 pointr/bapcsalescanada

Price History

  • Syba SD-VIA-5U 5-port (4+1) USB 2.0 PCI Card, VIA Chip ^PureLink
    CamelCamelCamelKeepa

    _
    Don't En Passant these deals.
    ^(Developer) ^| ^(Inquiries) ^| ^(Support) ^| **[^(Report Bug)](/message/compose?to=The_White_Light&amp;subject=Bug+Report&amp;message=%2Fr%2Fbapcsalescanada%2Fcomments%2Fbf6ubq%2Fother_logitech_spring_black_fridaypromotion%2Felfr2z1%2F%0D%0A%0D%0A
    %0D%0A%0D%0APlease+explain+here+what+you+expected+to+happen%2Fwhat+went+wrong.)**
u/swoopywoopy · 1 pointr/Windows10

Have you tried [this?] (http://steamcommunity.com/app/310950/discussions/0/405692758720636054/) That's what I've been using since mine wouldn't register at all either. As a side note: I did also need to install a different USB port since some of the old PS3 TE's require specific ports, but I doubt that's your issue since it was working before.

Edit: Here's the port, if you decide to go that route.


u/blehblehblargh · 1 pointr/streetfighterv

Used it to get it to work on PC, basically this. Start button uses heavy kick.

u/MCBowelmovement · 1 pointr/StreetFighter

Picked up this guy.

u/mirado · 1 pointr/cade

&gt; http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JFJZGG

That's what I was going to post. I have it in my mame arcade and it works with MadCatz joysticks. Two of the four usb ports don't work, so I covered them with electrical tape. I really haven't used it since I finished my CP with an iPac. But, if I need a third player with a stick it's there. It's a POS component, but it's cheap and it works.

u/Scheimann · 1 pointr/reasoners

I can't say. For people who have got it working after the same issue, they often bought something like this. Good luck, and God's speed.

u/Golbat · 1 pointr/SF4

Yeah, I bought this PCI card that was supposed to fix the issue, but it didn't.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JFJZGG/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00%5D

u/Unixman32 · 1 pointr/sysadmin

Fack. I've done the DOS method of flashing cards, it's a pain in the dick hole.
Thanks for the help M8.
I'm going to reach out to DDS and see if I can get these cards swapped for these.

https://www.amazon.com/SAS9211-8I-8PORT-Int-Sata-Pcie/dp/B002RL8I7M

u/sudogreg · 1 pointr/DataHoarder
u/MeCJay12 · 1 pointr/homelab

What question do you have with the SSDs again?

Here is a fourm thread about your exact situation. Here is the card I use.

I would love to help. I noticed there wasnt a huge amount of support threads on this situation. Im really surprised that there isn't more info on it.

u/ryaniskira · 1 pointr/PleX

&gt;I was mainly thinking I could use the PCI express slot for another SATA card when the time came for upgrading, but again thats a future issue.

Don't go with a SATA card, use SAS. SATA cards are usually stuck to 1x slots and can only connect 4 drives (and even then the 1x slot can start bottlenecking you). SAS cards can connect SATA drives and they usually have more PCIe lanes so they will not be a bottleneck. All you need is a SAS card and SAS to SATA breakout cables.

u/mydigitalface · 1 pointr/nutanix

I’m sure there are better HBAs but we used these and they work.

SAS9211-8I 8PORT Int 6GB Sata+sas Pcie 2.0 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002RL8I7M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JX48BbCHS736B

u/JamesGibsonESQ · 1 pointr/DataHoarder

Used on ebay go for $20+ ... Herre's an amazon one I found under $100:

&amp;#x200B;

https://www.amazon.com/SAS9211-8I-8PORT-Int-Sata-Pcie/dp/B002RL8I7M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1549300887&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=lsi+8i

&amp;#x200B;

Admittedly, I threw the rocket in there because I'm a fanboy of 40 sata ports :) ... Ahhh, the possibilities...

u/ham2play4me1 · 1 pointr/DataHoarder

If you are looking for a new chassis The Rosewill RSV-L4500 one is a great choice if you have large dreams and small pockets. It will also pair nicely with a pair of 9211-8i

u/slippery_salmons · 1 pointr/PleX

This situation is how I got started with FreeNAS. I started with 3 drives in a standard ATX case. Then had 8 drives in a Full Phanteks tower. Now I have a 15 bay Rosewill case. I built a rack for mine, but it could sit on a shelf somewhere.

I have one of these with these cables to expand on sata ports.

u/IByrdl · 1 pointr/buildapc

Found this one, same price/ports as a lot of externals (which are usually usb 2.0), with good reviews. Only power required is a 4 pin male molex, and a sata to molex is included.

http://www.amazon.com/Anker%C2%AE-Express-Connector-Desktops-Chipset/dp/B005ARQV6U/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1394590014&amp;amp;sr=1-1&amp;amp;keywords=usb+pci-express+card

u/spyingwind · 1 pointr/Vive
u/get1clicked · 1 pointr/hardwareswap
u/SimpleSecurityMatter · 1 pointr/oculus
u/infinity526 · 1 pointr/hardwareswap

If you don't find one used, this is a solid USB 3.0 card and it's only $20 on amazon.

u/agomez470 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace
u/knexfan0011 · 1 pointr/oculus

You can get a pci-e based expansion card like this or you could get something like this that connects to the internal usb3 header, if you case does not have usb3 ports.
EDIT: Are you sure the mobo only has 1 usb3 port? that spec might be referring to the internal header, from the pictures it looks like it has 4 usb3 ports.

u/Silver_Foxxx · 1 pointr/techsupport

Return that card. It shouldn't be that difficult to get a USB3 card working. This is highly rated and about the same price you paid for the Newegg card.

u/rewrqewqr · 1 pointr/gadgets

&gt; I have a network card in my gaming rig

Wireless network card. You also have Gb ethernet integrated, right?

Also - that's two cards.
&gt; usb card is in the front of the case and plugs into the motherboard.

It's not an USB card - it's just a panel with USB sockets - all USB logic is done on the MB and that function used to be performed by a separate component - like this one for USB3 http://www.amazon.com/Anker%C2%AE-Express-Connector-Desktops-Chipset/dp/B005ARQV6U

u/Doc_Chr0nic · 1 pointr/oculus

Correct me if im wrong but I dont think a hub will provide sufficient power. You probably need a pci-e card like this one:

http://www.amazon.com/Anker%C2%AE-Express-Connector-Desktops-Chipset/dp/B005ARQV6U

u/R0AK · 1 pointr/buildapc

Something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005ARQV6U/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_ZvWevb0SY7S6C
Or you could use a USB hub

u/0intel32 · 1 pointr/techsupport

I wonder if the problem would persist if he were using a pci usb card.

Would be a cheap(ish) fix for an annoying problem.

http://www.amazon.com/Anker%C2%AE-Express-Connector-Desktops-Chipset/dp/B005ARQV6U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1427719652&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=usb+pci++card+3.0

u/sconzen · 1 pointr/buildapc

Fair enough. Makes sense that if you have no need for certain features, there's not point in spending extra money on them. :)

PCI x1 4xUSB3.0 card would work. Something along those lines.

u/Oneironaut2 · 1 pointr/oculus

I just installed an Anker card (This One)I bought after running the compatability test on Wednesday and I'm also getting the warning about compatability. I think I'll wait and see how it works with the Rift before going out and buying another one. I've also got a front-facing 3.0 port and I think there's one in back on the motherboard.

u/smokehidesstars · 1 pointr/buildapc

You could always add a cheap SATA3 PCI Express card: https://www.amazon.com/IO-Crest-Port-PCI-Express-SY-PEX40039/dp/B005B0A6ZS

u/johnnyp42 · 1 pointr/computers

Sata DATA cables can't be split, it sounds like that is what you're looking for. If you need more SATA ports than your motherboard provides you can add more with a PCI-E card.

The thing you posted a picture of is supposed to connect to a RAID card or a PCI-e controller - that's why it has that weird connector you don't recognize.

Adding a PCI-E SATA controller is going to be the cheapest and easiest way to add more ports. Something like this.

u/bothunter · 1 pointr/techsupport

You'll need this for the power: https://smile.amazon.com/Molex-15-Power-Serial-Adapter/dp/B003M75D7I/ref=sr_1_10

Any maybe a SATA controller like this if your motherboard doesn't have a SATA port on it already: https://smile.amazon.com/IO-Crest-2-port-Controller-SY-PEX40039/dp/B005B0A6ZS/ref=sr_1_4

If your computer is old enough to not have the PCI express and only has PCI ports, you'll need this instead: https://smile.amazon.com/Syba-Controller-Software-Component-SD-VIA-1A2S/dp/B002EL4RL6/ref=sr_1_36

u/awesome2000 · 1 pointr/buildapc

OP, I'm stupid. You can buy a PCIe to SATA III adapter for about $15.

http://www.amazon.com/Crest-Port-SATA-PCI-Express-SY-PEX40039/dp/B005B0A6ZS

This is only a basic search, but look around and you'll find plenty of them to choose from.

u/Balmung · 1 pointr/techsupport

You sure a cheap pcie sata card wouldn't give better performance? The reviews on http://www.amazon.com/Crest-Port-SATA-PCI-Express-SY-PEX40039/dp/B005B0A6ZS says it does get around 350-400MB/s so it is better, but not the full 500.

u/blaziecat1103 · 1 pointr/buildapc

If your core problem is running out of SATA ports, a cheap expansion card could solve this problem more elegantly than external enclosures.

u/zax9 · 1 pointr/techsupport

This card on Amazon is only $16. This card on NewEgg (sold by a third party) gets you 2x SATA-III and 2x ESATA-III ports for $12. If you don't mind the wait, it looks like the same no-name card on NewEgg can be had direct from Hong Kong via this ebay listing for about $7.

u/Deemo13 · 1 pointr/buildapc

If SATA ports is all you need, you could always just add a SATA card like so:

PCI-E SATA expander thing

This is a non-RAID one though, so if you need RAID, consider getting a RAID one.

u/kevin_ol · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

This plugs into a SAS port, you're probably looking for this

https://www.amazon.com/IO-Crest-Port-PCI-Express-SY-PEX40039/dp/B005B0A6ZS

u/mmartinutk · 1 pointr/buildapc

Edit: Done. I don't know why, but it didn't work until I connected my Optical Drive to the PCI-e adapter and had both hard drives in the standard SATA ports. Did a clean install. Thanks for all who helped.

*****

Just bought this computer and a Samsung 500 GB SSD to put in it. I cannot for the life of me migrate this fucking OS to my SSD.

I've tried cloning using EaseUS and Minitool Partinioner. When I re-boot and go into the BIOS, I'm not even given the option to boot from my SSD. Just from Windows Boot Manager. Windows came pre-installed on the HDD.

It's worth noting my SSD is connected via PCI-E. Not sure if that matters.

I've deleted all my previous partition efforts. Here's what I'm looking at in Disk Management

Just tell me what to do man. Every guide online doesn't help.

Edit: Starting a clean install as suggested by another user. Idk why I've been trying to migrate over install from USB.

u/bandman2016 · 1 pointr/buildapc

There are PCIe to SATA cards out there, naturally there's many variants, so the best thing to do would be to get out and google around, look at reviews, etc

Example of such:

https://www.amazon.com/IO-Crest-Port-PCI-Express-SY-PEX40039/dp/B005B0A6ZS

u/nukee26 · 1 pointr/freenas

I've been using this SATA card for my boot device since March and haven't had any issues. It's a good bit cheaper than what you posted too.

u/Arm-the-homeless · 1 pointr/buildapc

What do they have now? I have the Xeon equivalent of a Q9650 in my office PC (mostly my daughter's computer these days) and it's not slow for web browsing or word processing. Hell it runs Fallout 4 @ 1080p on medium settings.

Getting an SSD does make a huge difference. In fact if your parents PC has a Core 2 Duo or Quad in it already, they probably don't need a new computer. You're better off getting a PCI Expresss SATA3 controller card and a cheap SSD. That plus a fresh install of Windows would probably do wonders.

It probably is their aging hard drive that's causing the slowness, and maybe a lack of memory for having Chrome tabs open. Really, you don't need much processing power to browse the web or use office software. I honestly can't tell the difference between my office PC and my gaming PC for those tasks, and my gaming PC is a i7 4790K w/ 16gb of DDR3 while my office PC is the aforementioned C2Q Q9650 w/ 8gb of DDR2. Web browsers and office suites just don't put enough of a load on a processor for it to matter.

Edit: If I had your budgetary constraints and I had to get my parents a new computer, this is what I would build.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD A10-5800K 3.8GHz Quad-Core Processor | $87.99 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-F2A68HM-DS2H Micro ATX FM2+ Motherboard | $46.99 @ SuperBiiz
Storage | A-Data Premier Pro SP600 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $44.99 @ Newegg
Case | Fractal Design Core 1000 USB 3.0 MicroATX Mid Tower Case | $28.99 @ NCIX US
Power Supply | SeaSonic 300W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | $35.99 @ SuperBiiz
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $244.95
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-12-17 06:16 EST-0500 |

And I would save up the extra 45 dollars to make it happen because they're my parents. Your parents deserve a power supply that isn't a fire hazard, they deserve a motherboard that isn't garbage, they deserve a case with some USB 3.0 ports and it's about to be 2016 so be a good child and get them a quad core while you're at it.

Edit2: And just to drive the point home about buying used, this is a much better computer for cheaper. Stick an SSD in it and your 8gb of RAM and it's good to go

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-Optiplex-980-Intel-Core-i5-3-33GHz-3GB-250GB-Windows-7-Professional-/111814960787?hash=item1a08b0e693:g:cuwAAOSw7hRWOTkw

u/Direwar · 1 pointr/starcitizen

Do you have any spare PCI slots?

u/Jakomako · 1 pointr/buildapc

I'd get a PCIe SATA card and run the SSD off that. http://www.amazon.com/Crest-Port-SATA-PCI-Express-SY-PEX40039/dp/B005B0A6ZS

u/epistaxis64 · 1 pointr/unRAID

Usually people will buy a seperate SATA pci-e card like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005B0A6ZS/

u/Raffy_ruck · 1 pointr/DataHoarder

&gt;The issue was these WD Mybook drives comes as exfat. That prevented the boot of the Windows OS for some reason.

That explains my troubles last night after shucking.

It wasn't able to boot with the My Book plugged into the motherboard, but was able to after plugging it into my PCI-Express Sata card.

u/dailytraffic · 1 pointr/zfs

I've used PCI-e to SATA cards before too; although I guess you could argue these controllers are sort of HBAs. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005B0A6ZS

u/Abyssul · 1 pointr/buildapc

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005B0A6ZS/ref=wms_ohs_product

This is what I used. I even have my before and after benchmarks in the top review (that's me). I'm not sure how the PCI-E x1 bandwidth limit bottlenecks by current speeds, but I'm experiencing typical speeds with it.

u/ERIFNOMI · 1 pointr/buildapc

You can fix the pins as long as you didn't completely fuck them.

Or you can get a cheap USB 3 expansion card which also has a USB 3 header like this one.

u/BiggedyBiggedyBong · 1 pointr/buildapc

An example of an adaptor as mentioned by boomerguy is here: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Neewer-USB3-0-towards-USB2-0-Motherboard/dp/B009SJCPO8

Whilst perhaps obvious, it's worth noting that your case sockets will operate as regular USB2 sockets when connected through an adaptor.

If no USB3 headers are available on your motherboard, you can get PCIe cards which will allow you to add them. For example: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Anker%C2%AE-Uspeed-Express-Connector-another/dp/B007SJGGAE/ref=sr_1_2?s=computers&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1405258976&amp;amp;sr=1-2&amp;amp;keywords=pcie+usb3

u/CarbonDudeoxide · 1 pointr/techsupport

Yes that will work, however I recommend spending just a couple more dollars and purchasing this.


It'll give you a couple more USB 3.0 ports on the back, and an alternative port to plug-in your front connectors.


I can vouch for this unit personally. My motherboard does not have a USB 3.0 connector, whereas my case does. This adapter lets me use those front-panel ports.

u/Zakic · 1 pointr/WindowsMR

well you could add something like this into your system

https://www.amazon.com/Anker%C2%AE-Uspeed-Express-20-pin-Connector/dp/B007SJGGAE/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1518133625&amp;amp;sr=8-6&amp;amp;keywords=pci+usb+3.0+card

you could then plug the front USB cable into this and get the front usb ports working as USB 3 and have 2 in the rear

u/Deliphin · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

No, but you could use either an adapter to run them at USB 2.0 speeds, or a PCIe card for USB 3.0 speeds.

Cheap card. 2x USB 3.0 port, 1x USB 3.0 header.

Expensive card. 5x USB 3.0 port, 1x USB 3.0 header, 1x Satapower port.

If you ever get some custom LEDs, I suggest the second one if you don't have any satapower ports free. (and if the LED takes molex, get a molex to satapower adapter, so you don't have to add a molex cable to your modular PSU, if its modular.) Or if you need more USB ports.

u/T-Shirt_Ninja · 1 pointr/buildapc
u/eegras · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Yep. This, for example.

u/jassalmithu · 1 pointr/sffpc

You can get this

https://www.amazon.com/Anker%C2%AE-Uspeed-Express-20-pin-Connector/dp/B007SJGGAE

and remove the backplate, it should fit or you can try to break off usb ports, it has a 20pin header for front IO

u/Tarkam2 · 1 pointr/buildapc

This one is PCI-e but fairly cheap: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007SJGGAE//ref=cm_sw_su_dp

I am not sure old PCI exists (at least I don't know any).

u/danzo17 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Does this USB card: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B007SJGGAE/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;amp;colid=N3GDRLS0UBGB&amp;amp;coliid=I241KQK38HB9FB contain a via chipset? (Asking because this is apparently necessary to get a usb controller to work).

u/TheAmazingZebraFish · 1 pointr/techsupport

Ahh that does make a difference. I presumed you only had the AMD APU. Since you have a GTX 970 running most VR-applications, shouldn't be a problem.

The cpu itself, is still a slight bit below the minimum requirements when compared to the intel i5-4590 Oculus uses as a reference point, but it might still be powerful enough to run VR-applications. (Don't quote me on this though)

In regards to your getting usb3 on your pc.
As your motherboard does not have any usb3 connectors, the only solution on top of my head would be to get a pci-e adapter like this and install it in a spare pci-e port if you have any.

As to your hdmi issue. I would be very surprised if your graphics card does not have a full sized hdmi output. Can i assume that it is your monitor which is lacking a full sized hdmi input?

u/firewave920 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Ok, yeah if one of the pins fell off that header is as good as dead. All of the USB ports on the back of the computer should still work fine, as they're attached directly to the motherboard. However the front USB 3.0s will be non-functional. Two options I can think of for fixing that problem.

Option 1: That will allow you to plug in those front facing USB 3.0 ports into a 2.0 header on the motherboard, however they'll be limited to running at 2.0 speeds.

Options 2: A card like that should allow you to plug in the front facing USBs into it via the 20 pin header.

u/Manodactyl · 1 pointr/buildapc

that USB pin header is for 2 USB ports. the pin that's broken off is the D+ (data pin) of 1 of the 2 USB ports, so only one of them would be nonfunctional.

If you want to use both of the USB ports on the front of your computer, but don't care if they only run at USB 2.0 speeds you can use one of these adapters.

Another option if you want 2 USB 3.0 ports on the front is to get a USB 3.0 PCIe card like this

u/0x007C3 · 1 pointr/techsupport

You may be out of luck finding an all in one, but what about going with a PCIe USB 3.0 card and using something like this for the 2.0?

u/JonzieK · 1 pointr/buildapc

Sandybridge is old now, I'm surprised there's even any boards for sale, none of the boards for sale on PCPP have the USB 3.0 header, so you either have to accept you can't use them or look for a second hand motherboard on ebay that does.

Another option if it's important you have them and you don't want to mess around looking for second hand boards that are compatible, is you can just buy an expansion card for USB 3.0, something similiar to this which you just slot into the motherboard and then plug the case headers into that.

Edit: Here's a picture showing the 20 pin connector you want

u/Sayakai · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

He's talking about this except with USB2 9pin connectors instead of the USB3 20pin.

u/notaneggspert · 1 pointr/buildapc

Which Ryzen CPU/Mobo to upgrade to after maxing PCIE slots/SATA ports on i7 4790k/Rx480 8gb 1080p 144hz gaming/data hording build?

I'm using all the SATA headers and PCIE expansion slots on my computer, it would be nice to have more SATA based HDDs and the ability to run multiple GPU's. Current build.

My MSI Z97S SLI Krait's USB 3.0 ports were all taken so I added the usb 3.0 express card so I could plug everything in. But having more PCIE lanes would be ideal.

The 4790k is powerful enough for everything I do, it's processing power isn't holding me back just the PCIE lanes.

In no rush what so ever to build so I might wait for Ryzen 2.0 or what ever to upgrade then buy a 1600x (or which ever is best for my use case) used with a new motherboard and the best bang for the buck ram I can find.

u/zry95 · 1 pointr/homelab

Thanks so much. This one would already be in IT mode wouldn't it. Then I could just update the firmware using the normal firmware update process?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0085FT2JC

u/old63 · 1 pointr/zfs

Thanks so much for all this!

I had found the memory and controller card below in the interim.
https://www.amazon.com/Tech-PC3-12800-PowerEdge-A3721494-Snpp9rn2c/dp/B01C7YS08U

https://www.amazon.com/LSI-Logic-9207-8i-Controller-LSI00301/dp/B0085FT2JC

I think these will work. What do you think?

On this build I probably won't try to get a slog for the zil but in the future I may if we test and can hook these up to our vm hosts. Do you have any recommendations for that? I know NFS does sync writes so I think I'll need a slog if I do that.

u/IsimplywalkinMordor · 1 pointr/freenas

For a case maybe a node 804? Or a Silverstone ds380? If you can't find a micro atx or mini itx motherboard with enough sata ports you'll need a controller in IT mode. The mini itx is smaller but you'll be limited on memory ports and sata ports most likely. I suggest building it with pcpartpicker to ensure compatibility. You can also filter for various qualities like number of sata ports or number of 3.5 inch hard drives things like that.

u/lordbob75 · 1 pointr/homelab

I'll toss a plug in for UnRAID here, it would do what you want. I use it and love it. May be the simplest option for you as it is a file server, and can also manage VMs and docker containers. There are dockers for Plex, backup software (crashplan, etc), and many other useful things (unifi ap controller, openvpn server, web server, ftp, etc etc).

I also just picked up two of these for my new server:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0085FT2JC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1

They work with JBOD and can be used with HDDs and SSDs. Not sure what the T30 and R710 have currently, but you may be able to flash them to IT mode for JBOD support.

If the 9207-8i is too pricey, you can get an H310 for around $50-100 and flash it to IT mode yourself. Amazon has them but ebay may be better.

u/gilahacker · 1 pointr/unRAID

I'm using two of these, myself:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0085FT2JC

They work great with my 4 and 10 TB HGST NAS drives, but I did have a problem with my Samsung 850 EVO SSD. There is a firmware update available for them that I haven't tried yet (I just moved the EVO to on-board SATA ports and it's fine).

Edit: You'll need cables like these (it doesn't come with them): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013G4EMH8

u/jdrtechnology · 1 pointr/unRAID

I recently put in an LSI card to attach 8 HDD's into my array (I have 5 SSD's attached making up my cache - not ideal, but I had the parts so... ;-). Worked out of the box. no flashing. No updates. I ordered mine from Amazon.com. Was $75, but I did not want to risk it, as this is my server (worth the $25 to me for simple piece of mind).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0085FT2JC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Combined that with the splitter cables (I used these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CKX6HVV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 ) and I have had 0 issues.

It was by far the most highly recommended card, and I did not want to deal with a bunch of random issues to save $25 dollars.

u/betstick · 1 pointr/DataHoarder

One is on an MSI X99-A(?) motherboard, and the other is on this guy: Link

u/SuperPunnyRedditName · 1 pointr/Proxmox

This is my server case that I use. I use these cables to go from the back plane to these PCIe sata cards. Back when I used to have my server running Windows I had bought a RAID controller. It wasn't until after I switched to proxmox that I found out the controller wasn't compatible. I think this is a much cheaper option, and I already have multiple of these so my server is pretty much already filled. That is a good idea though. I just didn't really find a good authoritative list on what RAID controllers actually work well with proxmox a few years ago, that is why I went this route. Thanks for the idea though

u/nobearclaw · 1 pointr/freenas

I use one of these: IO Crest 4 Port SATA III PCI-e 2.0 x1 Controller Card Marvell Non-Raid with Low Profile Bracket SI-PEX40064 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AZ9T3OU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.8j.zbB9E0901

It works well, but I don't do tons of read/write as I only is mine for backups. I would recommend to get hba if you're going to use it for a lot...going to be better for u in the long run.

u/M3rc_Nate · 1 pointr/buildapc

Wow, thanks! This is exactly the type of response I was looking for.

If I was to go with those options it looks like I would save a LOT of money. Any recommendation on what PCIe SATA card to get if I'm looking to add say 4 ports?.

That's just $130 for the case, mobo and CPU. Do you have a RAM (16GB) recommendation? I assume if my mobo/cpu choice was overkill that the ECC RAM was too. Still if the RAM is $80 still that's $210...then a PSU (again a recommendation?) which is probably $50, the PCIe card is $40... a grand total of like $300 for a DIY NAS. Pretty awesome.

u/dannybuoyuk · 1 pointr/DataHoarder

I got this, looks identical to the one already posted: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00AZ9T3OU/

Also have one on the way that hooks up to the mini-PCI-E card slot on my mobo designed for wifi cards: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272329179239

Bear in mind PCI-E x1 doesn't have enough bandwidth to use all 4 drives at their peak (although copying from drive to drive attached to the same card might be another story).

u/GT_YEAHHWAY · 1 pointr/unRAID

I have this adapter and it doesn't show up in BIOS on my B450M board.

Should I get a riser then switch adapters?

u/tms10000 · 1 pointr/DataHoarder

All HBA are going to be working out of the box with a modern Linux distribution. I use super crappy IOCrest or Syba branded HBA like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/IO-Crest-Controller-Non-Raid-SI-PEX40064/dp/B00AZ9T3OU/

But I learned from this sub that those should be avoided. The ones that tend to be recommended are the one with LSI chipsets. But for those I have little experience (though many recommendations exist on this sub)

u/SeaNap · 1 pointr/PleX

Drivepool doesnt prevent data loss, the SnapRAID parity drive does. Check out their faq for how it all works, pretty cool stuff. But yeah your right, if your drive fails you have two options; fix it under warranty (deleting everything on it, or a new drive), or throwing it out. You buy a new drive to replace it and the parity rebuilds the drive with all the data that was on the failed.

Im powering 16 through a SAS backplane to a HBA card, 6 on the on board SATA, and 4 in a cheap pci sata expander (24 data and 2 ssd os).

u/velogeek · 1 pointr/DataHoarder

The issue is that SAS1 was created during the era of PCIE 1.0. Even at 12Gbps per cable (of 4 channels), you would still saturate an x4 card with a single port. It was necessary to use an x8 and even then, it was possible to saturate that link with a dual connector card.

PCIE 2.0 was released just before SAS2 and this basically put it in the same scenario where you can get 24gbps per connector but with 500Mbps per lane. So, a dual connector card can do a theoretical 48Gbps whereas an x8 PCIe can only do 40Gbps. Again, not a terrible bandwidth issue because workloads are rarely that sequential.

So in reality, there's just never been a business need for an x1 HBA. On the other hand, cards like this one exist in the consumer space for just adding SATA ports to an x1. If OP has a 2.0 slot (possible but not sure how likely since standard PCI was given as an option...) then that card can add a few ports - it just won't be expandable and the jury is out on whether or not it's a true HBA in regards to passing drive data.

u/H1Tzz · 1 pointr/buildapc

man im in pretty much same boat as you, i currently have 4790k also and my mobo is dying, its in worse condition than yours( motherboards vrm are failing which causes random shutdowns) and im saving for ryzen system because in my country there is pretty much zero used good haswell motherboards and getting from ebay or something similar is pretty expensive considering i could just sell my 32gb vengeance ram along with cpu and use those extra 200-400 euros for new system which will have upgradeability, nvme, better performance and so on. Also i have 1070 which im saving it too ofc. I think you have 2 options, first would be to get sata-pcie expansion card such as this I personaly never tried it though. Or as me, sell your current ram and cpu and just upgrade.

u/airmantharp · 1 pointr/zfs

Bumping to say that I'm using this cheaper one, but it's also on Server 2016 that is sharing the drives to FreeNAS through Hyper-V for ZFS pools, which are a combination of ports on this card and on the motherboard, ten drives total. No major complaints; only minor one is that the attached drives showing up as removable, which is scary when removing USB drives in Windows as they show up in that menu.

I've considered an LSI server pull as a replacement- I have more drives!- but haven't gotten around to it yet.

u/til_you_rock · 1 pointr/DataHoarder

For $26.99 add four more ports via PCI-E 1x expansion card.

https://www.amazon.com/IO-Crest-Controller-Non-Raid-SI-PEX40064/dp/B00AZ9T3OU/

u/zakabog · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

You're not likely going to find a new desktop motherboard that supports more than 6 SATA ports without getting a SATA controller. Also, as someone that used to have 12 HDDs, if you have a mix and match of different drives with no RAID then I would highly suggest purchasing one or two much larger drives and moving everything to those. HDDs have a finite lifespan and around the 5 year mark everything starts to break down and files become unreadable.

What I normally do when I'm shopping for an HDD is go to PC Part Picker, filter out ASUS, MSI, and Gigabyte (I had too many bad experiences with cheap motherboards to go with ASRock again), filter out the specs I need (in your case 6 SATA Ports and Z370 or Z390 for the 8700K) then sort by price from lowest to highest. I did all of that here for you.

u/whoisstewiegriffin · 1 pointr/buildapc

Hi folks - I need to buy a new controller card - I currently have this controller. Wondering if there is a newer model that I should consider or another one you might recommend? This is the motherboard. It does need to be low profile.

u/svenge · 1 pointr/buildapc

Hmm, that is problematic. Perhaps something like this PCIe to SATA add-on card would be a solution.

u/Puptentjoe · 1 pointr/DataHoarder

I got these when they were $39
Then I got the top cages when those were on sale for like $50 back in the day. Go with the istarusa, sturdier to me. I had to send one of he Icecage (top ones) back because of a broken connection.

No HBA just a bunch of these IO Crest 4 Port SATA III PCI-e 2.0 x1 Controller Card Marvell Non-Raid with Low Profile Bracket SI-PEX40064 Not the best but it's all I knew at the time that would work. Next build I'll go a better route.

u/kalehulk · 1 pointr/PleX

I use this one in an Unraid box.

I/O Crest 4 Port SATA III PCI-e 2.0 x1 Controller Card Marvell 9215 Non-Raid with Low Profile Bracket SI-PEX40064 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AZ9T3OU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9ZTDCbDQ60DH5

u/godzplague89 · 1 pointr/DataHoarder

Hmm will it still perform if the only other pcie slot on my Mobo that can support x8 size will only run in x2 mode. Wonder if something like this would be better? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AZ9T3OU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ykhWCbKXVWF5G

u/Remo_253 · 1 pointr/techsupport

What make/model is the PC? While I agree with /u/LetsGetBlotto in general many of the less expensive PCs from the likes of Dell, HP, etc. use custom motherboards and it wouldn't surprise me a bit if, to save a few pennies per board, they cut out any extra ports.

If that's the case, do you have an open PCI-E slot? If so you can add an expansion adapter.

Taking a step back though, the main reason for adding an SSD is to speed up the PC, speeding up any reads and writes to disk. That means the best use is as the main C: drive where the OS is installed. You can replace the existing drive with an SSD instead of adding it in addition to the HDD. There's a process called cloning that copies everything from the HDD to the SSD. Although many will recommend a clean Windows install, cloning is simpler, no need to reinstall all your programs.

u/cetteup · 1 pointr/Proxmox

It's honestly way easier to get a cheap SATA PCIe controller, attach the BD drive to it and pass the controller through to the VM. You can get controllers for around 20 bucks (eg. this one from amazon.com). PCI passthrough on Proxmox is experimental, but the setup is well documented.

u/ihoman202 · 1 pointr/homelab

Looking at this for an alternative to going to totally new server since I have an old Pentium III that does server related things. Would this work?

https://www.amazon.com/IO-Crest-SI-PEX40057-HyperDuo-Controller/dp/B00AZ9T3OU/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1502492023&amp;amp;sr=1-4&amp;amp;keywords=8%2Bsata%2Bport%2Bcontroller&amp;amp;th=1

u/DARKZIDE4EVER · 1 pointr/PleX

&gt; SI-PEX40064

Thanks, I initiated a return with refund to Amazon of the Syba I ordered which had RAID option and got the IO Crest of that same model you mentioned. Hope this works.

Here is the link: http://www.amazon.com/IO-Crest-Controller-Non-Raid-SI-PEX40064/dp/B00AZ9T3OU

u/Polaris2246 · 1 pointr/unRAID

My buddy and I each built unraid servers in the past month. He went higher specs with a Xeon e3-1250v3 and a higher end consumer motherboard. Hes going to get an AMD rx480 video card for it so he has a second gaming computer for anyone that comes over. 16 gigs of ecc RAM. I went more power efficient and bought a supermicro board with an Intel Avalon C2750 CPU. It's essentially a server Atom CPU. It uses 20watts and has eight cores and 16 gigs of ecc RAM too. The motherboard has the right features I wanted. ipmi built in, four nics and some other stuff. I was worried the CPU would be under powered by it packs plenty of power for my docker containers. Sonarr for auto TV downloading, couch potato, nextcloud server, web server, MySQL server, modded Minecraft server, crash plan backup server, and others. I barely eat up 30% CPU when everything is running and actually doing something. Idle is below 5%. I don't have Plex on it because my Nvidia shield does that. It's surprised me a lot how much power it has. If you want gaming, it's not for you but it is more than enough as a file server and the applications its running and plenty more.

Motherboard/CPU

16GB RAM

SATA Controller Card (needed more sata ports than motherboard had)

Power Supply

[2x SSD for Cache/Pool set up]
(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FJ4UN76/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1)

5x WD Red 3TB

Better fans for case

Case (LOVE the case)

u/ChaiGong · 1 pointr/freenas

&gt;If it's just a data drive and you're not looking to do anything super fancy with it. These work great.

I had a card with the same chipset and it was utter shite. Seemed to work fine, but I got all kinds of SMART errors (related to data transfer, not the drives themselces), drives would spontaneously be kicked from their vdev array, drive commands would fail, etc.

I recommend never using PCI SATA expanders. You can get an LSI HBA for the same price plus rock solid performance and better speed.

u/Josey9 · 1 pointr/DataHoarder

Thanks for the warning. If I buy this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00AZ9T3OU directly from Amazon, it should be fine, right?

u/nullx · 1 pointr/freenas

Yes, FreeNAS-11.2-U5, was also working on U4.

I literally just plugged it in and plugged a drive in to it and it worked. I also have switched drives between the controller and the motherboard and that works too without breaking my pools. Support for the Marvell 9215 chipset was apparently added in FreeBSD 9.2... Not sure why you would be having trouble, does the card work in a different PC?

Oh fuck my bad, I Just double checked and THIS is the one I got... Slightly different but super close image wise. The one I got has the Marvel 9215, the one OP linked has Marvel 9235.. But based on a quick google it looks like the 9235 was added to be supported in FreeBSD 9 as well...

u/rkd85 · 1 pointr/unRAID

I ended up with this card and got nothing but errors.

&amp;#x200B;

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AZ9T3OU/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

u/IvivAitylin · 1 pointr/Amd

I just grabbed a cheap one off Amazon, this one specifically.

u/zSars · 1 pointr/unRAID

I know for a fact that this one works:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AZ9T3OU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1


and this one does not work

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16816132018

Hope this helps

edit: Pretty sure the Marvell chipset makes the difference

u/12sub · 1 pointr/DataHoarder

this is one of them
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AZ9T3OU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1
Cant remember the other model. Pretty much the same thing though.

u/Something_Funny · 1 pointr/unRAID

I put together almost the exact same build a year or so ago to replace my Drobo. Like your case selection better than mine. The only thing I might suggest is springing for an i5 if you're going to be transcoding multiple streams.

I recently decided to add more HDDs to my build and ran out of SATA ports. Expanded with this. Good luck!

u/teh_fearless_leader · 1 pointr/DataHoarder

As /u/just_insane has mentioned, plex is a good option for streaming. I'm an opponent of freenas, in favor of using something homebrew (zfsonlinux with debian or ubuntu, in my case, gentoo with zfs) to do what you need. I don't like how finicky freenas can be even with server-grade hardware. It's just not my thing.

That said, for someone who's new, it may be a good idea to try out freenas or nas4free. I just finished building a 16TB usable (20.5TB raw) system last week. I'll link my items below.

2x iocrest controllers

1x16GB kingston ECC ram

1xNZXT source 210

5xHGST 4TB deskstar NAS

1xsupermicro mbd-x9scm-f-o - Great board. Loving it so far. dual onboard nic is nice.

2x850 Pro 256GB that I had laying around

1x 550W PSU laying around.

total ran me about $1300 and I'm able to max out a 2x1GB LACP setup writing and reading directly on rust.

EDIT: my recommendation, in most cases, is to at least do raidz1 (RAID5). RAID is no substitute for backups though, so invest in something offsite and make sure it's staying backed up. I use CrashPlan for offsite and local backups and it works like a charm.

u/Mursh · 1 pointr/Vive

Try one of these two pci-e usb cards.

2 Port

4 Port

I can't find the source right now but I read someplace that these cards were recommend by a valve employee for people having usb issues.

Good luck!

u/CognosSquare · 1 pointr/Vive

I bought a ST-lab card

It gets the job done.

Some people liked the Inatech line: link

u/probably_is_fhqwgads · 1 pointr/Vive
u/geeneepeegs · 1 pointr/oculus

I've seen the Inateck card recommended on this subreddit fairly often

u/Rogue_Native · 1 pointr/nvidia

Indeed. Also, any latency issues can be extremely distracting and have a significantly adverse impact on the immersion experience. I'm sure it was a tough call for them, but their design made it necessary.

Here's a relevant Oculus help article: https://support.oculus.com/1798990480336565/

I've seen dozens of people use the card that they recommend without any problems. Any reports of it catching on fire could be due to wiring issues, but that's hard to say... a small percentage of the cards may have a fatal manufacturing flaw.

Unfortunately, they discontinued their Oculus Compatibility Tool. It would report any issues with the USB controllers in your setup, which was nice.

u/Walfies-1 · 1 pointr/virtualreality

Rift s needs certain compatible usb 3.0 ports, if your mb has Etron drivers they wont work (personal experience), you will have to buy a pcie expansion card with a specific chip (its listed on the oculus page)

Fresco FL1100 chips is a compatible chip , this is what is recomended:

Inateck Superspeed 4 Ports PCI-E to USB 3.0 Expansion Card - Interface USB 3.0 4-Port Express Card Desktop with 15 Pin SATA Power Connector, [ Include with A 4pin to 2x15pin Cable + A 15pin to 2x 15pin SATA Y-Cable ] (KT4001) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XlGMDbC1VQ6JQ

u/Bromatoast · 1 pointr/buildapc

so something like this would work well then?

Actually, i just found this, I might [try this instead] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=pd_luc_rh_sim_02_02_t_img_lh?_encoding=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1)

u/Tigdual · 1 pointr/oculus

https://www.amazon.fr/Inateck-Contr%C3%B4leur-Express-15pinY-Cable-compatible/dp/B00B6ZCNGM

This one is slightly cheaper, same controller and works fine with my rift S.

u/darealdsisaac · 1 pointr/oculus

USB Extension

USB card (This is the only one I've seen that is recommended. I need it because I don't have enough ports.)

Wallmlounts

Accessories total: $56
Oculus total:$497
Vive total:$500

u/dojja · 1 pointr/oculus

Try manually installing all usb 3 drivers.
Check this link: http://www.win-raid.com/t834f25-USB-Drivers-original-and-modded.html

&amp;nbsp;

You might have to invest in a usb 3 expansion card.
This is one of the recommended ones:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-E-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM

&amp;nbsp;

Also check the wiki:
https://www.reddit.com/r/oculus/wiki/techsupport

u/LostBob · 1 pointr/oculus

Or .. you could get a $20 one.

Oh nevermind.. I see you picked the crazy overkill on purpose. :)

u/wayward_wanderer · 1 pointr/GameDeals

This is the one that Oculus recommends:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B6ZCNGM

However, all four USB ports share a controller so the bandwidth is shared between the ports. You probably won't want to plug in more than two sensors to it.

There are USB expansion cards that have a dedicated controller for each port. These cards cost much more, but you'll be able to plug in a sensor/headset to each port and not worry about not having enough bandwidth. I believe this is the popular choice for going that route:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZEA2S/

u/Thatariesbloke · 1 pointr/WindowsMR

...you have NO idea how creepy that i had JUST purchased:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM

BEFORE I had a chance to read this...weird

u/Groen28 · 1 pointr/oculus

&gt;Audio and game functionality continues with the black screen

I had similar issue months ago, If audio and game functionality continues with the black screen like you said, it could be a USB bandwidth issue. I fixed it by buying an expansion card. Is your headset and sensors all plugged into your motherboard or are you also using a USB expansion card?

u/Rrdro · 1 pointr/oculus

£19.99 - It was recommend to me for Oculus and has worked great.

Inateck Superspeed 4 Ports PCI-E to USB 3.0 Expansion Card - Interface USB 3.0 4-Port Express Card Desktop with 15 pin SATA Power Connector, [ Include https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B6ZCNGM?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

u/RoyMi6 · 1 pointr/Vive

I do yes.

I've acctually got two of these cards: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-E-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1481614227&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=inateck+usb+3

I had weird stuttering problems when using these cards for the sensors though (I didn't do massive tests with this, just simply plugged them into the motherboard and restarted - it might have just been the restart required) but essentially I have the Oculus hardware plugged into my motherboard USB and everything else into these controllers.

I avoid using an external hub for the VR gear but I've got one hub that handles my VR cockpit/racing gear which includes - Warthog HOTAS, MS FFB2, 2nd keyboard, 2nd mouse, rudder pedals, G25 racing wheel. I've also got a Blue Yeti microphone, usb headset/mic, webcam, gamepad and one of those keyboard gamepad things. Think that's it USB wise :)

I've got the Vive plugged into the HDMI on my 1080 and the Rift plugged into the DVI port with the DVI-&gt;HDMI adapter it came with.

u/luciferin · 1 pointr/oculus
u/megamold · 1 pointr/oculus

Here is a link to the product.

https://www.amazon.fr/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=pe_386181_51767671_TE_dp_1

It's the inateck KTU3FR-4P

u/HashSSLingingSlasher · 1 pointr/buildapc

To answer a couple of your questions:

  • Yes the WAN adapter is necessary for WiFi

  • You can buy a PCI to USB expansion card

  • I would get a better cooling, but liquid cooling is unnecessary unless you are really doing some heavy OC's. Check out /r/overclocking and /r/watercooling
u/KisatoVR · 1 pointr/VRGaming

It should work, this is one that's recommended by Oculus. Though, some users do encounter issues; so I can't assure anything in that regard unfortunately. You do want Windows to automatically install the drivers, however, IIRC; rather than use Inateck's drivers from their website.

u/SpaceNinjaBear · 1 pointr/oculus

Ah, hmmm. It's odd that it was working fine for five days and then suddenly stopped. Just as a general troubleshooting step, do you have any kind of DVI-to-HDMI adapter? You could swap the Rift's HDMI to another port if you haven't tried that already.

Do you hear any sound in Windows when you plug the Rift into a USB port? That may be a clue as to whether or not the headset is being detected by Windows but something is preventing communication between the headset and the software.

I saw where someone else in this thread mentioned having similar issues with the same motherboard. You may need to try a USB expansion card. Oculus recommends the Inateck card if you're having any issues with USB. But again, if you had it working for five days with no issues, I don't know why this would be necessary now. Just adding it in as a possible other troubleshooting step to take should it come to that.

Make sure you've got the right USB controller drivers from ASRock as well. You can find them here or here. Windows Update may install its own generic USB drivers otherwise.

u/loofychan · 1 pointr/oculus

The recommended model by Oculus is the 4 port version. It is apparently better than the 5 port one. It's working great for me! I have my headset and one sensor plugged into it and one sensor plugged into a USB 2 port on my mobo.

https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM

u/Phalex · 1 pointr/oculus

VIA controllers don't deliver enough power/bandwidth.

Just get one of these
https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM $19.99 Or something similar.

u/bushmaster2000 · 1 pointr/oculus

Your USB controller chip set is likely asmedia or VIA which are incompatible.

Your only fix is to get a compatible expansion card with USB3.0 ports.

Something like this for 20 bucks

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_JBj4Db01T2FRR

u/HernandoSantiago · 1 pointr/assettocorsa

https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM

That is the one Oculus recommend, I use it myself with two sensors on the expansion card, and an additional sensor and my headset USB cord by USB 2.0. No issues :)

You sure can mate. Do you have a PCIE 3.0 on your motherboard? You'll need it for that expansion card. That being said, if you're only going to be using the rift for racing it should be possible to run a sensor and the headset on USB 2 anyway. I did to begin with when I first got my rift, but your results may vary depending on your mobo

u/motherbrain111 · 1 pointr/oculus

This is the recommended card... but theres some bad reviews.

Anyone personally used this and was successful?

https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM

u/brastius35 · 1 pointr/oculus

I recommend just popping in a PCI USB card, it will give you a bunch of ports and ANY MOBO will work. Say bye bye to USB shortages. No reason to make a MOBO decision based on 1 or 2 USB number differences.

https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr0_2?keywords=inatek+usb+pci&amp;amp;qid=1554437486&amp;amp;s=gateway&amp;amp;sr=8-2-fkmr0

u/99741 · 1 pointr/ElgatoGaming

It was more of noticing that my 3.0 usb only worked when there was a single 3.0 plugged in. If I had more than one, it only powered the device.
Actually today I had another somewhat related issue but with webcams. For streaming, I wanted to have 2 webcams running however only one would show at a time. The webcams are on an external 2.0 usb hub. If I plugged 1 of the webcams into the PC itself, it worked. So I played with the resolution of the cameras and was able to get both running on the external hub. It’s the same idea, not enough “power” from the one hub. I’ll like you the 3.0 usb I used in my PC.
Inateck Superspeed 4 Ports PCI-E to USB 3.0 Expansion Card - Interface USB 3.0 4-Port Express Card Desktop with 15 Pin SATA Power Connector

TL:DR - trial and error / rule out method.

Hope this helps! Let me know if I can be of further assistance.

u/Atak_Snajpera · 1 pointr/intel

content of that post

The main problem with those newer cheaper mainboards is that Intel decided to use own custom made USB controller instead of ASMedia Controller previously used in Z370 series

https://techreport.com/review/33420/exploring-intel-h370-b360-and-h310-chipsets

&gt;Unlike Z370 before it, the silicon that underpins these new products actually brings a few new tricks to the table. For one, the silicon that underlies H370 is the first Intel PCH to offer native, baked-in USB 3.1 Gen 2 support. That fact means motherboard makers no longer need to rely on third-party USB 3.1 Gen 2 controllers from sources like ASMedia to bring high-speed peripheral connectivity to their boards' back panels. As a refresher, USB 3.1 Gen 2-compatible peripherals can transfer data at up to 10 Gb/s.

In this case you will have to use external USB controller. Something like that

https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Supe...rd_wg=H27xA&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=WNAXCQXQ061NSTVXG4XJ

u/menthol_patient · 1 pointr/oculus

I got one of these. Paid £25 ($30-$35 I guess) and it hasn't failed me once.

u/jasoa · 1 pointr/Vive

I had the same problem and it was related to the usb ports on my motherboard. I bought a separate usb card and all of my problems went away.

PCI-E to USB 3.0 Expansion Card

u/VR20X6 · 1 pointr/Vive

I'm happy to hear that you made good progress figuring things out!

I happen to have the Logitech G29 wheel, which is the PS4 version of the G920. I had similar problems to what you were describing. The issues were solved by also plugging the wheel into the same USB PCIe card I mentioned. Here it is on Amazon, though it appears to be out of stock right now (and possibly no longer available from Amazon). Note that this card is recommended by Oculus, Valve, and HTC for users having USB troubles.

Here's hoping you get some good VR time in and get your wheel working in conjunction. These issues are frustrating, but the experience is absolutely magical and totally worth the similar amount of effort I put in resolving my own issues.

u/smellsocket · 1 pointr/hotas

This one Although I meant to say it has its own psu connection, not unit. I mistyped.

u/v4moose · 1 pointr/oculus

I just purchased direct from Amazon and it shipped to Australia relatively quickly.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM

u/Ar7ific1al · 1 pointr/oculus

Alternatively, you may want to try one of the widely used and recommended Inateck USB expansion cards. When I got my Rift, I had the same issue, except it wasn't every five minutes; it was more like at random intervals between 10 and 15 minutes. lol Still not good.

I got this expansion card and connected my headset to it, two sensors on my motherboard USB3, and my third sensor on my motherboard USB2. Haven't had a single issue since.

u/sinistar3 · 1 pointr/oculus

I think it is. It's the Inateck Superspeed etc, etc.

For reference:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1

u/erndawg101 · 1 pointr/oculus

Thanks for the support folks. Even without the 100 gift card this is a steal, so I'm in. Always been interested, but the price point has been my barrier.

For the techie types, here's was i got in addition to the bundle.

Cooler

Thermal Paste

USB 3.0 Card

u/ShatteredStrife · 1 pointr/oculus

Wow, I've never had something like that happen.

All of my sensors are on extension cables. Two are USB 3, and one is USB 2. All are plugged into the recommended Inatek USB controller card (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B6ZCNGM).

The USB 2 sensor gave me some detected/not detected issues, since the extension cable is pretty long. That cleared up when I plugged it into a powered hub, purely acting as a power booster, like I mention doing for the headset today in the original post. The sensor is just using a much cheaper USB 2 hub, though.

If you're using extensions, and you were careful to buy ones that people have had success with in the past, then I'd highly suspect a power delivery issue.

Good luck, and I'm glad to have given you some ideas. I hope they pan out! Let me know if I can answer any questions.

u/Frontporch321 · 1 pointr/oculus

Agreed...I believe, in general, most people who have 3 sensors have a USB card. It's inexpensive (~$25 online) and very easy to install. If you are not using a USB card then I'd highly recommend you buy one.

Edit: Here is the card I purchased, $23 on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

u/alubaking · 1 pointr/Vive

Buy a separate PCI E USB card.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/

u/UpsilonX · 1 pointr/Vive

I had a hard time setting up my Vive too.. turns out my motherboard (which was a bit old and not the best to begin with) didn't have enough bandwith to transmit what it needed to the Vive causing errors and controller connection problems. So if you're still having those controller issues you can buy a pci-e usb 3.0 board to connect the Vive USB to. Once you get it set up it's so worth it!

u/Madmann86 · 1 pointr/oculus

I believe there is a $25 card that Oculus recommends.

u/Niq22 · 1 pointr/oculus

When it comes to USB extensions and where to plug in the equipment (USB 2.0 vs 3.0, etc), I found the Help section on the Oculus website to be insufficient. They don't take into consideration if you have a PCI-E USB 3.0 controller (Which I had to purchase) in addition to the on board USB 3.0 ports.

I have 4 sensors, all of which are connected to USB extension cables. I found the Oculus setup wizard to be most useful. If you have green check marks for everything, then you're good! If you don't, try plugging stuff into different ports until you get all green check marks. At one point I had to even unplug some other USB devices, plug in my sensors (so they would turn green), then I could plug in my other USB devices. I now have all 4 sensors setup working flawlessly.

For extension cables, I had no issues. Three of my sensors have 10' extenders and I also have a USB extension cable on the headset as well as an HDMI extender. I spent a decent amount of time getting my "Rift Room" setup and I am so happy that I spent the time to set it up right. Makes for such a solid experience and I have a large play area that I can freely move around in.

For reference here is the HDMI/USB cables I bought:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBBSZFE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1 (HDMI Extender)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1 (USB 3.0 Extender)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MT1EQM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1 (USB 2.0 Extender)
(Also, my 2 additional sensors came with 1 10' USB extension cable each...purchased from Newegg)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1 (USB 3.0 Controller)

u/NoWayIn · 1 pointr/oculus

Is it not supported by the Rift or by the motherboard?

Would this work? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A2QGX098CVHYJ7&amp;amp;psc=1


That's from the Oculus website

u/Eckish · 1 pointr/oculus

There's a much cheaper card that I can vouch for: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/

Although, the first card I got worked fine for about a week and then just stop working all of the sudden. I contacted Inateck and they replaced it for free. The second one has had no issues.

u/Geshman · 1 pointr/WindowsMR

I have this and this usb adapter.

I typically use my headset with everything plugged into them save for the headset plugged into one of my mobo 2.0 ports and the headset plugged into a mobo 3.0 port.

Plugging the headset into the first usb adapter I linked seems to work fine (not sure about stability). The second adapter still gives me the 7-15 error. I do not use adapters to power either of them, but it is possible the sata to molex adapter will not work (as my card that does not work uses sata power).

That said, it will definitely not work without any power, do the usb ports work for lower powered things?

Also, not sure if it is relevant, but I no longer get the low power usb error message

u/saawry · 1 pointr/beatsaber

Hey haha thats kinda funny, I just fixxed it about 30 Minutes ago.

https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1 If you buy one of these and install it (dont use the driver cd, let windows detect it) it will work again

just plug the headset in there that fixxed it for me

u/LetoAtreides82 · 1 pointr/oculus

If the cable is fine my best guess is that the USB slot isn't providing enough power. When I replaced my launch Rift S with a newer one (manufactured in August) I noticed that it no longer liked the USB slot I had been using for my launch Rift S.

It'd work fine for a few minutes until something happens that I'm guessing requires more energy and the PC isn't supplying enough and then I lose tracking. For example in Creed VR whenever I got knocked down I'd lose tracking and I'd have to quit the game and restart Oculus Home. That's something that never happened with my launch Rift S.

So to fix that I just bought a USB card and I haven't had issues since:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1

If you do go this route I suggest you make sure to disable USB sleep through device manager, to be safe just disable USB sleep on every USB Root Hub listed. I made the mistake of not disabling the new USB Root Hub that was created when I installed the card and it went to sleep after my first session and it was a nightmare to get it to unsleep, I had to keep uninstalling and reinstalling until the drivers finally worked magically.

Once I got it working again I made sure to disable USB sleep on all the USB root hubs and haven't had any issues since. Do note that Windows Updates sometimes resets your power saving options so after every Windows Update make sure that your USB root hubs are still set to never sleep.

u/VLL3N · 1 pointr/oculus

I'm looking to get some more USB 3.0 slots on my computer that will be compatible with the Oculus. I was hoping to just use a USB adapater. I didn't see any mention of the Adapters being incompatible, but I didn't see anyone recommending them anywhere either. This is the only piece of hardware I saw recommended directly from oculus, but I really didn't want to put it in my computer if I didn't have to. Any advice or information is appreciated.

u/Verlena51 · 1 pointr/oculus

I got my headset used for $299 in like new condition. was used once for a demo
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073X8N1YW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;th=1

3rd Sensor plugged into an USB 2.0 port on computer
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0727WDPX6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1

Rechargeable AA batteries and charger
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JHKSL1O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1

USB Expansion card
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1

Headset and touch wall mount
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0781G75B5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1

Wall Mount used for rear left sensor
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XR8DL7T/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1

Cable management system
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073P7GJNP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1

Mount clip used for front left sensor on shelf
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MG4D3O5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1

HDMI extension for headset, only one used.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ519KC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1

2 pack 6 feet USB 3.0 extension cables, one used for front right sensor and one used for headset
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CFL6ARO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1

Sensor ceiling mount used for front right sensor
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IDCDZY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1

3 foot usb 3.0 extension used for front left senor
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7S1B4W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1

Cleaning Cloths
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NR9S3EQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1

Oculus Rift Facial Interface &amp; Foam Replacement Basic Set
https://vrcover.com/product/oculus-rift-facial-interface-foam-replacement-basic-set/

Photo of final setup
https://ibb.co/exkWXx

I have had no issues at all, this setup working very well for me.

u/Beserkhobo · 1 pointr/oculus

All good mate, i ended up doing some googling around and found some stuff here on the r/oculus wiki page. I ordered on the 14th a 2m usb and hdmi extension for the headset, 5m usb extension for the sensor and 3 wall mounts that i will use velcro 3m stickers with.

Only downside is from amazon and will arrive around 29th Dec.
I also just ordered this USB PCI CARD to make sure that im not putting too many sensors on the main usbs. It might be overkill but i don't want to deal with any tracking issues ever again.

u/elj0n3s · 1 pointr/oculus

how much is your overclock? i'm running 4.2, hope that's enough extra power. this 4 usb 3.0 slot pci card should work fine, it has to have an external power supply:
http://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM?colid=12S2CYL8IQXY3&amp;amp;coliid=I2NEBWOUFXKREX&amp;amp;psc=1&amp;amp;ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl

u/Chippxero · 1 pointr/oculus

I assume so.

personally I ordered a PCI-E card

u/BubblyWubCuddles · 1 pointr/Twitch

You likely don't have the usb bandwidth to handle two. The c930e is meant to have a larger field of view, idk about focus range. Get https://amzn.to/35eXhbU and it should work.

u/samtheredditman · 1 pointr/oculus

The Best Buy vr headset cable didn't work for my rift so I pulled the cables apart and used the 3.0 extension for my second sensor since I was out of the return period. Works perfect for that.

Here's what I got for my headset and the only things I'd recommend for headset extensions:

hdmi cable

hdmi repeater

usb 3 cable

inateck usb 3 card

The usb extender cable wouldn't work with anything besides the usb 3 card for me so I would say just buy it too. Though, I can only plug 2 things into the usb card.

These 4 things solved all my problems though. You can roll the dice on the best buy cord, but there's a decent chance you'll have to buy this stuff after and this way you get 15ft of extension instead of 9.

u/specter437 · 1 pointr/oculus

Did you buy the correct 4 port Inatek that is linked on their page? It needs to be the Fresco FL1100
chipset.

From your post below, you said you have one sensor plugged into 2.0 (so that one will obviously be 2.0), and then one using the xbox extender and two of the cable matters extenders that you use one with the headset and one with the third sensor correct?

If so, your problem may be the Xbox extender. The xbox extender is only a USB 2.0. You can check by looking into the USB slot. USB 2.0 has just the four pads. But USB 3.0 has the four pads and five extra hidden prongs on the inside.

u/will1384 · 1 pointr/OSVR

I have a USB3.0 PCI-E expansion card and my motherboard supports USB 3.0, I found that I can run two PS Move cameras off of the USB3.0 PCI-E expansion card, and two PS Move cameras off of the motherboard, but if I connect all four PS Move cameras to the same thing I have problems.

Right now I have two USB power switchers like this:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TPMEOYM

one is connected to my motherboard the other is connected to this USB3.0 PCI-E expansion card:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM

I also have a DK2 rift tracking camera attached to the USB3.0 PCI-E expansion card, and the bluetooth dongle connected to the motherboard.

BTW I am using the USB power switchers to make sure the cameras and bluetooth turn off.

u/SavageOranges · 1 pointr/oculus

Here's the model I'm talking about. Thanks for the reply. SATA connection is plugged in, there's a green light coming from the card itself and its seated snugly into the PCI slot.

u/BeornCN · 1 pointr/NZXT

One is connected to

https://www.nzxt.com/product-overview/internal-usb-hub

the other (it´s the one that is detected every time) on an internal connector of

https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00FPIMICA/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;amp;colid=2OOTQ491D9UML&amp;amp;coliid=ID3YRC6KYF8UZ

It might take a while until I´m able to connect both to the motherboard, because there are quite some cables running around. And it´s no final solution, because the Grid+, the Kraken X62 and the front cable USB, a WLAN dongle and a XBox Wireless controller dongle want to be connected too and there are only 2 headers on the board...