Best networking antennas according to redditors

setup a wi-gig link using Ubiquity's wireless dish products. Pay your buddy a little money each month. It's very fast, we use one for sharing a comcast connection a 3/4 mile away. We have the dish version tho.

https://smile.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Nanostation-Bridge-Complete-Pre-Configured/dp/B01ETXEKCC/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1500412830&sr=8-11&keywords=Ubiquiti+bridge

EDIT: Here is a better model that many have recommended. (you'll need 2 + POE Injectors) It's not pre-configured like the other one, but you can buy all the stuff pretty easily and Ubiquiti will be glad to answer any questions you have. You can set one of systems up in a couple of hours.

19 dbi large:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JFQV6GC/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1500444353&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=ubiquiti+bridge+outdoor&dpPl=1&dpID=212NLJA7zQL&ref=plSrch

Or the smaller and cheaper option:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00K8OCW1S/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500444429&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=ubiquiti+bridge+outdoor&dpPl=1&dpID=31LK-pY3M5L&ref=plSrch

I personally use a pair of these with some trendnet POE's.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004MYZ8U2/ref=mp_s_a_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1500444862&sr=8-10&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=ubiquiti+bridge+outdoor#nav-search-keywords

POE power supply:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007Q87KP2/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1500444977&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=poe+injector&dpPl=1&dpID=41n5l7J7NmL&ref=plSrch



Second edit: this appears to be a popular lifehack, 'Tis the tip of the iceberg I have many more!

HIJAKCING TO SAY I DID THIS

1. start with this or this (bonus: with the latter one you can replace the puny antennas with badboys like this)
   
2. then get this or this and install it on #1
   
3. relocate your linksys or other modems devices behind this firewall or remove it entirely in favor of a mesh wifi solution
   
4. be happy you have control over your network devices
   
5. donate money to the pfsense or m0m0wall project so they can fund the creation of slick android apps to control your new firewall
   
6. don't forget to keep your firewall software up to date
   
   EDIT: MONOWALL IS DEFUNCT, USE OPNSENSE INSTEAD
   
   EDIT 2: Well this post has blown. Be aware that you can replace #1 with an old computer you have in your house. But /u/kingbrasky advises against it because it could be power inefficient and riddled with spyware and other popups so he (or she) still recommends following #1

u/Rubik842 is right, even if he is being a little vague. It probably won't help much, if at all. RF at WiFi frequencies is very vulnerable to the skin effect. The wire you are using is probably causing a lot of loss, or at the very least, low SNR. Even though your speeds are significantly higher, your latency is probably off the charts due to all the packets it would be dropping. The only time you wouldn't be dropping packets is if you are incredibly lucky, as even the slightest defect in that cable will cause multipath distortion and at least a little bit of noise.

All of this is completely disregarding the problem with your reflector. There is a very low chance that it is efficient at 0.12491352416m (for 2.4GHz, around 12.49cm) or 0.0599584916m (for 5GHz, around 5.99cm) If I were you, I would go buy a pre-built directional antenna, as they are designed with all this in mind. They are pretty cheap if you know what you are looking for.

It is still pretty intuitive for a temporary solution, though.

This one will work well with 5GHz: https://www.amazon.com/ALFA-APA-M25-directional-connector-WL-ANT-157/dp/B00R1PA9EO

This one will work well with 2.4GHz: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Outdoor-Directional-connector-TL-ANT2414A/dp/B003CFATNS?th=1

Beware of no-name omnidirectional antennae, as they aren't well made. Most of them make things worse.

Info for those who don't work with radio: Those numbers above represent the ideal length for your antenna. They are pretty easy to calculate. The formula is λ = C/f, which means wavelength = speed of light / frequency in Hz.

To get wavelength from GHz:

299792458 / (GHz * 1000000000)

For MHz:

299792458 / (MHz * 1000000)

For KHz:

299792458 / (KHz * 1000)

For Hz:

299792458 / Hz

​

The result will be in meters for all of the above.

​

Your antenna can be full-wave, which means its length matches the wavelength.

You can also get a half-wave antenna, which has a very small degradation in performance. Its length is half of the wavelength that you are using.

Quarter-wave antennas are also available, but they carry a more significant performance decrease. You can probably guess how long it needs to be based on the pattern so far.

Anything smaller probably isn't worth it, as a full-wave antenna for 2.4GHz is just under 5 inches long in the first place. A quarter wave antenna is just over an inch. Full-wave 5GHz antennas are already tiny. They are around 2.4 inches long, with quarter-wave being barely longer than half an inch.

​

To be totally honest u/dusty_whale, if you are happy with it's functionality, I wouldn't bother buying one. There is a chance, albeit a rather small one, that your DIY reflector fulfilled all of those requirements I listed above. Nice job, it looks really cool regardless.

Edit: Easier to read number formatting for the wavelengths.

An Alfa AWUSO36NH USB wifi card, an [Alfa R36 802.11 b/g/N Repeater and Range Extender for AWUS036H](https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-R36-Repeater-Extender-AWUS036H/dp/B004ZF0I3U/], a TP-Link 2.4GHz 24dBi Directional Grid Parabolic Antenna, and depending on how far away it is, a TP-Link 2.4GHz 24dBi Directional Grid Parabolic Antenna, and a TRENDnet Low Loss Reverse SMA Female to N-Type Male Weatherproof Connector Cable. You'll also need a tripod mount, and a meter long pole. This setup is very directional, but if you have a clear line of site, it's perfectly doable.

Build Pics

Setup details:Monitor: Acer KG271USpeakers: Logitech z506KB: Tecware Phantom w 3rd party keycapsMouse: Razer Mamba Elite & Razer scarab mousepadCase: SM550

Build Details:
MB: Asus ROG Strix B450-i gaming
CPU: R7 3700x
CPU cooler: Cryorig C7G + NF-A9x14
Ram: Corsair Vengeance RGB 3200Mhz CL16
PSU: Corsair SF750 Plat
GPU: EVGA RTX 2080 Gaming XC
Additional Case Fans: 2x Be Quiet! Silent Wings 3 Pwm

Notes:

1. Inserting MB before fans is easier in the SM550 (contrary to the manual)
   
2. 2x Silent Wings 3 were from previous build but they are waaay louder than the small NF-A9x14
   
3. The motherboard forces fans to go to 100% at 75 degrees, anyway to circumvent this?
   
4. Wifi/ BT antenna on the asus b450-i is kinda ugly, need suggestions for replacements
   
5. 3700x idles at ~50 and ramp up to 70-80 in games. Voltage jumps around 0.9-1.4 in idle but stays above 1.4 while gaming. Before disabling iCUE, Razer Chroma SDK, Razer Synapse and ASUS Aura sync, voltages were contantly 1.4v and up in idle
   
6. Sliger gives an option for:- internal 20pin- USB A and USB C- internal 20pin to USB A and internal type L to USB CGo for the former with an AMD mobo cos they dont have the internal type L socket for the individual type C port like on Intel mobos. Mine got shiped with the latter so I cant use my front type c port :( Need the new silverstone CP14 connected for the USB C port on the front panel or the new front panel IO for it to be useful
   
7. Didn’t add the GPU and supp mobo cables into pslate customs order! Have to wait till he takes orders again
   
   Questions:
   
   
8. Any suggestions on Wifi/BT replacements for this mobo?
   
   1. Currently looking at this antenna from huacam and this unbranded antenna
      
9. Any way to raise the thermal cap of the mobo to more than 75 degrees to stop fans ramping up so often?
   
   1. Stop gap measure is to set case fans to motherboard temperature, but under gaming loads CPU goes up to 80 degrees yikes gonna play more with fan curve
      
   2. Using noctua silent fan adapter works to cap max volume but ramping up is still an issue
      
   3. Noctua fan controller looks abit too big to fit into the case and cablemanagement would be quite messy
      
   4. Tried installing AI suite III and it crashed my com =/ don't really want to pay for software like argus monitor either
      
10. Are the temps and voltages for the CPU normal? Been getting conflicting/ confusing answers on the r/AMD threads
    
    1. TLDR they are normal
       
    2. Tried reducing PPT but temps and voltages are still similar, will look more into it
       
11. Will Sliger cases sell their internal 20pin to USB A and USB C header separately? (SOLVED)
    
    1. They do but will prioritize sending out current case orders first
       
       Overall pretty happy with the build quality and how the theme turned out. Black/gray with orange highlights :) Eagerly waiting the NF-A12x25 and NF-A9x14 chromax fans!!! (If we DO get them lol)
       
       (edit: added more info)(edit 2: added responses and findings)

There is some wrong info in previous replies to this thread. The RTL-SDR can RX plenty of satellites, it just requires a proper antenna + and possibly a LNA or hardware filter. There are several satellites in 137 MHz (weather satellites, NOAA, M2). There is also Inmarsat, Iridium and other satellites in L-band (1.5-1.6ghz) that can be found.

To start with, NOAA APT is a good option. The rtl-sdr.com link posted is a great resource.

You can build a QFH, DCA or Turnstile antenna that will work well for them. There is also the V-dipole that has been posted here before that shows good results. Another option which is cheap and easy to build is a "2m tape measure yagi". The only downside of the Yagi is you need to get outside and point it, since it is directional (think like a flash light focusing light in one direction). The other antennas listed above are omni (think of like a light bulb with no cover, emitting light in all directions).

After APT, LRPT from Meteor M2 is a good one to chase. Higher quality pictures and you can use the same antenna from APT.

Next, there are a bunch of Amateur radio satellites that operate in the 2m (~145 MHz) and 70cm (440 MHz) bands. You'll find various telemetry to decode and some have voice or APRS repeaters on them. A QFH, DCA, or Turnstile will work for these, but not as well as a purpose build antenna for 70cm. Checkout the Arrow-II split boom antenna (about $100 bucks). It is like a 2m tape measure yagi, except it also has a set of elements for 70cm. If you get a ham license ($15 bucks and a test), you can talk to people bouncing your signals off these satellites.

Next, moving up to L-band. (1.5ghz - 1.6ghz) you will find Inmarsat and Iridium and GOES satellites (1.7ghz). These require different antennas, LNAs and filters. Outernet has made a patch antenna that works for Inmarsat, and a custom filter/lna board (on amazon). I wouldn't recommend the Outernet patch unless you dont have a lot of space. A good option is a TP-Link 24dbi dish (about $50 on amazon/ebay). These work very well. Or a L-Com 1.9 Ghz antenna.

Here is a pair of the TP-link dishes I have that I use to monitor inmarsat. http://i.imgur.com/2PCk2rC.jpg

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CFATOW/
http://www.l-com.com/wireless-antenna-hyperlink-brand-19-ghz-22-dbi-parabolic-grid-antenna

The RTL-SDR can have issues getting up near the higher frequency range it supports (1.5ghz-1.7ghz), so it may be problematic. Generally the v3 from rtl-sdr.com fixes this as it has a cooling pad that helps keep the PLL locked.

Beyond frequency locking and maximum supported frequency(24mhz - 1.7ghz for the RTL) issues, the other issue you run into when working on higher frequency satellites, is the limited bandwidth of the RTL-SDR. Inmarsat this is not an issue as most signals are narrow and fit within the 2.4 MS/s sampling rate of the RTLSDR. The max freq issue can be solved with a downconverter, but if the signal is wider than 2.4 MS/s, it wont work and you'll need a better SDR (Airspy, BladeRF, USRP). The higher bit ADCs on the higher end SDRs help as well.

Just for some eye candy, here is a 40 MHz swath of Inmarsat 98W from my 1.2m dish with a USRP - http://i.imgur.com/sic1rgQ.png

Now getting to GOES. There has been folks who have tested the L-com dish linked above with another TP-link slightly extending it with success. I have a 1.2m dish setup for GOES and you can see the write up here about it: http://www.rtl-sdr.com/receiving-goes-lrit-full-disk-images-of-the-earth/

Lucas Teske has a great set of blog posts about his adventure of setting up a GOES station on his blog. He also has created the OSP (Open Satellite Project) software package that will decode the images.

http://www.teske.net.br/lucas/2016/10/goes-satellite-hunt-part-1-antenna-system/

You can also pickup Iridium satellites with a simple modified GPS antenna, LNA, filter. You can find details and many talks on this at the links below:


Iridium Pager Hacking 31c3

Iridium Hacking ... please don't sue us cccamp15

Iridium Update 32c3

Iridium Satellite Hacking - HOPE XI 2016

https://github.com/muccc/iridium-toolkit

https://github.com/muccc/gr-iridium

Next... remember the NOAA APT satellites? They also have a service that is broadcasted, HRPT that operates at 1.7 GHz, and has much higher resolution. There is also many other satellites that broadcast HRPT, will be well supported for many years to come. It's also a wider signal, and a better than rtl-sdr SDR is required (Airspy, BladeRF, USRP). Also needed is a 1-1.2m satellite dish on a tracking AZ/EL mount. I've built a complete from scratch tracking mount for another 1.2m dish I have, and the build log can be found here - http://imgur.com/a/6Lo8M Here is what the signal looks like - http://i.imgur.com/Ub4XYwh.png and here is what the images look like http://i.imgur.com/Cfw9lpH.jpg

There is also TACSATs that operate near 240-300 MHz. You need a crossed yagi antenna (search Trivec on ebay) or a "x-wing" antenna (x-wing can be built with some tape measure materials rather easily, search "diy uhf satcom antenna" ). You will hear Brazilian pirates on these satellites all the time. Here is my Trivec I use to monitor them:

http://i.imgur.com/uklQ8zH.jpg

You could try Netgear 6000450 MIMO Antenna - https://www.amazon.com/Netgear-6000450-MIMO-Antenna-Connectors/dp/B00DN3J03O but it is meh, you need to position it towards tower and preferably outside home or at window for peak performance (walls degrade cellular signal, if you use it inside/mount it inside home behind walls, you will notice little to no gain. Also, look at Amazon reviews some people actually get lower performance if they face the antenna not directly towards tower)

If you have enough money and own your home, you can try looking at /u/brobot_ setup

https://www.reddit.com/r/ATT/comments/86bch4/nighthawk_users_using_external_antennas/

https://imgur.com/gallery/4IbXE

EDIT: I removed battery and left it plugged to USB wall adapter 24/7, with battery it heats up a lot and used to show overheating/stopped charging notification a lot for me.

This sounds like a super fun project. I think there's a few questions I still have before I expect the most quality answer:

1. What's your upgrade budget?
   
   
2. What's the topography and vegetation like? Is maintaining line of sight an issue?
   
   
3. Is there any preprocessing that can be done on the drone to downsize the data throughput requirements? Compression? Etc. You aren't running every pixel of a 4k image into a classification NN are you?
   
   
4. Can you estimate the actual bits per second required for upload/download? I don't know howbig a 4k image is off the top of my head.
   
   
   So here's my 2 cents as a HAM and general nerd:
   
   

• You'll get better range with 2.5 GHz over 5GHz, but less throughput. If your bandwidth requirements allow for it, 2.5 would be my choice.
  
• A shitty antenna that's high up or has clear line of sight is likely going to be better than a nicer antenna on the ground. Consider upgrades consisting of ways to get your antenna higher up.
  
• Repeaters can be cheap with something like little zigbee units to form a little mesh network. Keep in mind you can use directional antennas between nodes to get better network reliability with fewer nodes. A 2.5GHz yagi with 15dBi gain is like $25.

The ECS board has a mini-PCIe slot for onboard wifi (this is the same as motherboards that "come with" wifi -- they just include a slot on the board and pack a wifi card into the box). You just have to pick up your own card ($13) and antennas ($13).

If you're gaming on wifi, I always recommend going with a card rather than a usb stick. Much more reliable.

Rocket M5 with the rocket dish kit x2 for the 20km link.

http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-ROCKETM5-5GHz-Power-BaseStation/dp/B004EHUTNI

http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-RocketDish-5G-30-AirMax-Antenna/dp/B003H2HGOQ

Nanobridge M5-25 x2 for the 2km link.

http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Nanobridge-NB-5G25-Outdoor-25DBI/dp/B004MYZ8U2

Suggest using the RF armor kits for the rocket at the relay point to attenuate interference from the nanobridge.

http://www.rfarmor.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=1&zenid=fp8h1clb9nh9sdt3hhsmihm7a6

Have you calculated your fresnel zone clearance and done an elevation plot yet? Use 5.4ghz for your center frequency.

http://www.wirelessconnections.net/calcs/FresnelZone.asp

Google earth is good for elevation plots, draw a path between the two points, then right click on the line and select elevation profile. Screenshot and share on imgur if you don't mind.

Thanks for the info! We ordered and tested these two cables (briefly) -- both seem to work! Signal strength seems good and the headset seems to work fine so far

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AUQF8VY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (1m)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071Y7FXWW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (2m)

​

​

I would be surprised if that device worked.

What you need is a directional antenna. Ideally, something you can put in your roof or outside your window. Something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-ANT2409A-Directional-Antenna-connector/dp/B003CFATNS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1407434530&sr=8-2

A larger antenna with a bunch of gain will work really well, if you can find a place to mount it:
http://www.amazon.com/TL-ANT2424B-Directional-Parabolic-connector-resistant/dp/B003CFATOW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1407434530&sr=8-3

I actually had two antennas similar to those set up at Tenside, and I got GT WiFi for about 2 years. Never had to pay for my own internet. (This wasn't stealing, I was paying my technology fees...)

Anyways, you can hook that antenna up to USB adapter (like the Alfa one linked below), or into another wifi access point and rebroadcast your own network.

Easy!

Go buy an old used android phone off ebay for $20-30 shipped. (This one is nice!) You just need something with a camera, wifi, working charge port and working touch screen. Read the description carefully.

Download "IP Webcam" off the android store (free) and load it on your new phone.

Hook your phone up to your home's wifi. If you need more Wifi range, replace your routers antenna with this and put it on your wall outside your house facing in the direction of the camera. Mine boosts the signal to a good 1-2 acres.

If you don't have an outlet to plug the phone in, just put a fully charged car/boat/tractor/lawn mower battery out there with an adapter and car charger attached to it and run it into the phone. That will last weeks. You can also get this style and a longer USB cable if you need it to reach more.

Buy one of these for a mount. I just drilled two holes in the suction part and screwed it to a wall with wood screws.

You can view the camera simply through a browser or download some free camera software to record it.

If you want to record directly to the phone and not hook up to your computer there are apps for that as well.

You can use the light on the phone (flashlight app) to help give some light to see at night or put some kind of portable light (lantern, flashlight) out there.

This is going to be your cheapest option, but requires some prep work. $30 for the non-wifi extending option, $50 with it.

Source: I have this setup. It works well until about 0 degrees F, then the phones sometimes shut off. I may rig up a small heater using resistor wire for them for this winter.

Do you have an Android smart phone or tablet?
If so, DL the Wiggle wifi app.

With it running, you can walk around the property and better triangulate various signals.

If you have a macbook, you can do the same thing pretty much with Kismac. I use WiFiFoFum to do it with an iPhone, but it requires jailbreaking.

Subnet Insight is an absolutely amazing app for iPhone for taking keeping track of your local network and keeping it safe. It's $5, and the only non-free software I'm linking.

If you have an external wireless adapter, or are willing to spend $15-$30 on a specialized one, I can walk you through putting it in monitor mode and really getting the the bottom of the issue.

Here's a simple tp-link USB wifi adapter you can use to monitor all transmissions over B/G/N wifi, [for only $11 amazon prime.] (http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WN722N-Wireless-Adapter-External/dp/B002SZEOLG). Here's a very high quality (and foolproof) directional antenna you can use to make it much more effective for less than $30.


^Also ^a ^lot ^of ^the ^advice ^you've ^gotten ^so ^far ^is ^pretty ^badummmmm, ^or ^too ^complicated ^w/out ^better ^context.
But don't be discouraged. Network internals & also wifi/radio signals are complex topics, but the basics are accessible enough to pick up quickly in your situation.

A hackrf one can do 2.4 GHz and directional antennas are easily found online. You would also need an adaptor like this one

Then you could use a laptop running GQRX or SDR Sharp to show you the signal strength of 2.4 GHz signals in the direction of the antenna. Turn off your phone WiFi and laptop WiFi.

See if you can find any ham radio operators in your area, they often know how to find a transmitting beacon (it’s called a fox hunt).

I use this:
https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Modem-Gigabit-Ethernet-Ports/dp/B01N5ASNTE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1536690667&sr=8-1&keywords=netgear%2Blte%2Bmodem&th=1

with this:
https://www.amazon.com/Netgear-6000450-MIMO-Antenna-Connectors/dp/B00DN3J03O/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1536690667&sr=8-4&keywords=netgear+lte+modem

It's pretty cheap, I live in Oregon, outside of Portland, we rarely have bad storms and almost never have service disruptions that aren't an ISP making a mistake, but it's nice to have just in case :)

Can anyone help me with my rural internet plan? Not super FIRE related, but I know a lot of folks here have probably encountered the same obstacle.

I'm in an area that can only get HughesNet, with their lovely 24-month contract only plans and low caps. I'm trying to daisy chain an alternative and could use some help!

At the location I can get decent LTE coverage from Verizon. They also offer an "unlimited' plan that drops your speed 4.8Mbps after 15Gigs. Not ideal, but still tolerable.

What'd I'd like to do is this:

• Verizon JetPack 7730L + An Antenna
  
  
• Verizon Single-Device Beyond Unlimited Service ($85/month)
  
  
• Pair The Jetpack to a Mesh Router, as my "single" device for full-home coverage
  
  
• Enjoy the 21st Century
  
  In theory it sounds straight-forward, but with only a USB out, how do I properly link the JetPack to the base router of the mesh system?
  
  
  

https://www.amazon.com/Antenna-World-G2424-Directional-Parabolic/dp/B00NQGVMSE

Long range WiFi antenna I hope you can get out

https://www.myus.com/?siteID=TnL5HPStwNw-hA4KV_VmHO6prhYI_9cWGg

Company that will ship your Amazon to Yemen

"Likely Overkill" and homelab go together like a point to a point! https://www.amazon.com/Antenna-World-G2424-Directional-Parabolic/dp/B00NQGVMSE/ two of these and your chromecast issues will be gone. Larry Buttler knows what's up...
>First Class antenna. Nicely powder coated and heavy duty for so cheap. Dipole is in a plastic radome with aluminum secondary reflector. Measured right at 23dbi on my range in the field. Side lobes and rear radiation nearly immesurable.
VERY directional requres patient pointing with stable mounting pole. 10-15 degrees off 1W AP at 50 yards is simply gone! This is the antenna if you have poor service from multipath and other traffic. Rejection of interference 10 degrees either side of forward beam is excellent, all the way out to the radio horizon. 23dbi above 1W is 200W ERP!
If you've got room for a BIG BOY antenna, DIS B IT!

Ideally, there would be a strong directional antenna at your parent's home, aimed at your window. These are not expensive. If their router has external antennas using a standard antenna mount, you can exchange one of them for a directional antenna like this one. Even through walls, it should improve the signal considerably, but you have to carefully aim it, since it'll only deliver a very narrow signal. The example I linked to is for 2.5 and 5GHz WiFi - if you only have a 2.5GHz router, you can get a cheaper model.

At your end, you may want to place a repeater with a high-gain antenna, at a window that looks at your parent's house, which would be the spot you'd aim at with the high gain antenna. Just pick a model with good reviews. You can also get a directional antenna for this device as well in order to further improve the signal, if necessary. Most repeaters have the same standard antenna mount as routers.

In any case, this will require a lot of fiddling, running back and forth (or getting one of your relatives on a phone and coordinating them to aim an antenna for you). Expect a good afternoon of tweaking until it works. I can not make any promises regarding bandwidth, since this is highly dependent on local conditions. The method listed above is the easiest option, just a few simple antennas and a repeater.

Alternatively, you could also get more specialized, stronger directional antennas, mounted outside on the walls of their house and where you are living, but that's a bigger effort. It's not that these are expensive though, even the cheapest model has a potential range measured in miles. Installing two of them wouldn't cost much more than getting a repeater and two directional antennas, but the results would be significantly better.

I think you are going to need to go here:

​

https://www.reddit.com/r/Ubiquiti/

​

With two radios, you will get an air link close to wired speed. The wireless speed will probably be faster than the landlord's ISP speed.

​

There is also Mikrotik

​

https://mikrotik.com/

​

But I think Ubiquiti will probably be better.

​

Two of these?

​

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-LBE-5AC-GEN2-US-LiteBeam-Wireless-Bridge/dp/B06Y2JH7PV/ref=sr_1_26/142-3056758-6156042?ie=UTF8&qid=1543483688&sr=8-26&keywords=ubiquiti

​

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ANIQCE6/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stppvp_2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=d45777d6-4c64-4117-8332-1659db52e64f&pd_rd_wg=3veJj&pf_rd_r=DDX6ZEH96YW7NTX0SJHP&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-bottom-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B01ANIQCE6&pd_rd_w=1H1Ta&pf_rd_i=ubiquiti&pd_rd_r=802f79eb-f693-4e02-b426-24ab592ee851&ie=UTF8&qid=1543483738&sr=2

​

Maybe this:

​

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-UAP-AC-M-US-Wide-Area-Dual-Band/dp/B076B4ZVF2/ref=sr_1_56?ie=UTF8&qid=1543483803&sr=8-56&keywords=ubiquiti

​

Note: there will be someone in the Ubiquiti forum here who has done what you want to do and will have advice.

​

Good luck!

That cradle point is a module that goes into their modem. That’llbe an expensive touch. I haven’t used the other modems you listed.

Check out the netgear lb1120 + netgear omni antenna

https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-LTE-Modem-Broadband-Connection/dp/B01N5ASNTE

https://www.amazon.com/Netgear-6000450-MIMO-Antenna-Connectors/dp/B00DN3J03O/ref=pd_aw_fbt_147_img_2/133-6043539-3895657?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=RFEFWZ75ZJDM4SJSJ5SR

The connector is called SMA. Here's an Amazon link which should be suitable for what you want to do (there's a review with a picture of the antenna connected to the motherboard rear IO) https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06WD7FZV4/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1523695608&sr=8-9&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=sma+antenna&dpPl=1&dpID=41bdDak2-1L&ref=plSrch

In all things tech, there are 3 qualities

• Build Quality
  
• Cheap
  
• Effective
  
  As is usual - pick two. You can not have all 3 at the same time.
  
  That said - the absolute best (gain wise) are the 'grid" type parabolic reflectors. Next in line are the Wifi yagis and finally, the co-linear verticals. The last having the added advantage of not being horizontally directional (at the cost of vertical gain).

I use a fairly reliable antenna from the router and an adapter to switch from SMA to TNC. It works wonders and it's relatively cheap.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008Z4DNFC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2XK1LYKSDHPGL

I'm not too familiar with the dev side of things so do you think just allowing niantic alone would cut it or do they have different login server domains, etc?

Look at a high gain directional WiFi antenna with battery operated WiFi cams. These antennas really work. You can get a WiFi signal kilometres away.

SimpleWiFi Ultra Long Range WiFi Extender G2424 Directional Parabolic Grid (High-Speed Signal Booster) Outdoor Antenna https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NQGVMSE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_04xHDb55CDRFE

These are what I use:

https://smile.amazon.com/HUACAM-5-8GHz-Dual-Band-Wireless-Network-Antenna/dp/B06WD7FZV4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511662517&sr=8-1&keywords=huacam+8dbi

The connector is standardized, so any WiFi antenna will fit.

Or you buy a couple of these http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Nanobridge-NB-5G25-Outdoor-25DBI/dp/B004MYZ8U2/

travel routers! you can mod these little devices to add obscenely big antennas if you like. they also can create a private lan, so your devices can communicate with each other faster and securely. for example, there's this router which could be modded with this antenna with this adapter. they offer lots of functionality that you would want.

You can re transmit an WiFi signal using extenders or a bridge, but it is likely against your school's acceptable use policy. They may be able to detect your rouge device, contain it and effectively shut you down. Additionally you may maybe risking the passcode you use to connect to the wifi network and finally it is probably a crime to alter your schools network without their permission.

With all that said, throughput and latency often seem to degrade quite badly when you extend the signal. Also the problem is in both directions. Not only do you need to receive a usable signal, but you need to transmit a strong enough signal back to the campus or their receiving antenna will not hear you.

Without a proper site survey it's difficult to say if it's possible it get it working. This is the way I would approach the problem.



Walk the boundary of your property using [inSIDDER] (http://www.inssider.com/) There's free version somewhere, the playstore also has a free version if you're an android user. Then determine where the best signal is and where you can place a directional antenna.

A -70 dBm is going to be the minimum signal strength for a stable connection. So if you're at -80 dBm with your current setup you can improve your reception by upgrading your antenna.

The fewer obstacles the signal has to pass through the better, so check outside and up high. Think in terms of "line of sight". Try to figure out where the closest campus access point is physically located in relation to your location, and point your antenna directly at it. Insidder can help you with this step.

You can build your own [cantenna] (http://www.turnpoint.net/wireless/cantennahowto.html) if you're so inclined or [spend 30$ on something like this] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008Z4DNFC?psc=1) and be done with it. Make sure you get the right connectors for your wifi card, and enough cable. If you're mounting the antenna outside, grounding it is important. You may be able to mount it in a attic or just set it in a window.

I bought these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DMJI9TA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005UBNJ48/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have the second one propped on top since my N66U is hanging on the wall. The longer ones are in the middle and bottom. I used the third antenna in the first set linked above for a wireless nic card on the back of a computer that is two rooms away.

Move up to Verizon's unlimited plan for 15gigs. Get a hotspot device with dual antenna ports so that you connect a MIMO antenna. Verizon's 8800l device is an example. I find that their hotspots are getting pretty good at finding a 4G signal and half the time now I turn off my WeBoost because it's not really needed anymore. This is the antenna I use, you just stick it to window, and it often works better than the WeBoost... https://www.amazon.com/Netgear-6000450-MIMO-Antenna-Connectors/dp/B00DN3J03O/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=4g+mimo+antenna&qid=1568051973&s=gateway&sprefix=4g+mimo&sr=8-4

The higher the gain with omni-directional antennas the flatter the signal is, imagine it as a donut getting squished. So you may want a lower gain, say 3-7dBi. Because they operate in circular area you also pickup more noise this way, so if have a lot of nearby 2.4 or 5GHz devices then avoid these.

Uni-directional is best for a stationary system, you just point it at the wireless access point. In this case you want as high gain as you can afford. 8-10dBi is normal, but you can go up to 15dBi (indoor models) if you are willing to spend more.

https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-APA-M25-directional-connector-WL-ANT-157/dp/B00R1PA9EO - If your wireless adapter has multiple antennas you will need multiple of these.

https://www.amazon.com/30cm-Female-RP-SMA-Extension-Cable/dp/B00EPG4A3I - Get one of these for your antenna, being able to position properly is critical for signal strength.

Yes, it does have a slot for a WiFi card and holes in the IO shield for antennas. However, unlike the ASRock boards you'll need to buy the card and antennas. The ASRock boards also have another M.2 slot for a second SSD, but it's not as fast as the primary one.

I originally wanted the ASRock X370 Taichi (includes wifi, faster BIOS releases, and is cheaper), but after two months of waiting for it to be back in stock anywhere, I gave up and went with the Crosshair VI Hero. It's still not in stock.

Update: The Taichi is back in stock at NewEgg! (dammit!)

Just something to note about your antenna choices. You showed 2 really high gain antennas for people to buy, but despite common belief, high gain is not necessarily better than low gain. Yes, High gain can transmit farther, but they also have a much narrower focal area.

See this exaggerated illustration here.

As you can see, the high gain antenna's transmit farther, but are very directional. This is fine if you only have 1 or 2 devices on your wifi, you could point the antennas at them and get the signal right where it needs to go. But most people have lots of devices all over the place connected to wifi and a medium gain (5-7 dBi) omnidirectional antenna would server them much better than what you linked. Something like this, which are the ones I use at home

If you are using those antennas that you linked, I'm guessing that you've got a bunch of weird dead spots around your house where the signal drops dramatically.

> Is the Notcua NH-L9i necessary?

No. Save your money and build it with the stock cooler. If you decide later that you want to install a different cooler, it's not difficult to do.

> Is my current MOBO selection good?

Used it twice. No problems. DO NOT install the garbage software from the Gigabyte web site. It all sucks. If it happens to not crash, it will slow down your PC.

> is the Ryzen 5 1600 a good choice for the price at the moment?

Yep.

> what are good cost effective alternatives as of right now? How are Radeon card alternatives?

Here is one comparison chart. There are others on the web in various places that are slightly different, but similar.
https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gpu-hierarchy,4388.html

• Corsair Vengeance LPX is the only RAM that's ever failed on me due to old age and 2 of 4 sticks have failed. Plus it's expensive for no reason.
  
• You're going to hate yourself if you try to build in a mini ITX case with a non-modular PSU.
  
• Spend the extra $15 on a better SSD and get M.2 form factor so it mounts directly to the motherboard. No need to run power/SATA to a drive inside an already tight case.
  
• I would build it first with the stock cooler, but if you're going to buy the Noctua, you want the NH-L9a rather than the L9i. Different mounting brackets: A for AMD, I for Intel.
  
• If you get tired of the the wifi-on-a-string antenna that comes with that motherboard. These work very well with that motherboard. Just throw away the little cables that come with them and screw them on to the existing antenna ports.
  
  
  PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
  
  Type|Item|Price
  :----|:----|:----
  CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor | $175.89 @ OutletPC
  CPU Cooler | Noctua - NH-L9a-AM4 33.8 CFM CPU Cooler | $39.90 @ Amazon
  Motherboard | Gigabyte - GA-AB350N-Gaming WIFI (rev. 1.0) Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard | $109.89 @ SuperBiiz
  Memory | G.Skill - Sniper X 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $177.98 @ Newegg
  Storage | Samsung - 860 Evo 250GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | $84.90 @ Amazon
  Video Card | Asus - GeForce GTX 1080 8GB TURBO Video Card | $545.88 @ B&H
  Case | Silverstone - Sugo SG13B-Q Mini ITX Tower Case | $48.99 @ Newegg Marketplace
  Power Supply | Cooler Master - MasterWatt 550W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $31.65 @ Newegg
  | Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
  | Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1255.08
  | Mail-in rebates | -$40.00
  | Total | $1215.08
  | Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-05-15 08:28 EDT-0400 |

I got these for my Asus z390-i: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06WD7FZV4

people have reported these work, it is in fact a little longer but not hugely so.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B071Y7FXWW

It's an RP-SMA. Also, assuming you're looking to extend I can vouch for this cable working: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071Y7FXWW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you buy another cable be sure it's RP-SMA. RP stands for reverse polarity (inner and outer signal is swapped compared to SMA), so a standard SMA will not work even though they will screw into one another.

This extension cable worked fine for me! Zero issues.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B071Y7FXWW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought this Dual WiFi RP-SMA Antenna kit and an Intel 9260 for $15 each. The connection is almost perfect two floors away from the router, the default antennas were constantly losing signal because they were blocked by the steel case. The default WiFi card is an Intel 3168NGW unless they updated it (comparison).

I'm not sure how much of a difference the WiFi card made, I got the biggest improvement from moving the antennas to the opposite side of my desk. Although the card is definitely much better.

If you replace the WiFi card, you'll probably have to take the motherboard out of the case. Then unscrew the two screws below the metal M.2 enclosure, pull it out of the motherboard, unscrew the screw on the side of the enclosure (it's small, don't lose it), stretch the sides apart to take the metal cover off the hinges, gently remove the WiFi card connectors, and loosen the screw before removing the WiFi card.

If you have the original VRM heatsink with thick insulation, this is a good time to replace it as well and not after you put everything back together. Easily identifiable by the large standoffs on the side. It's arguable if this step is necessary if you have the slightest bit of airflow over the VRMs, but ASRock will probably ship you a replacement if you ask for one. Take one or two pictures of the heatsink and note the motherboard serial number (printed on the motherboard or findable in command prompt as "wmic baseboard get serialnumber").

Oh sorry, missed that part.

As mentioned by DrunkRufie, powerline is an option, although from what I understand it's really hit or miss, and largely depends on your house wiring. Hard to predict the outcome, but maybe worth a shot.

Another option would be to get a decent directional antenna for your computer or the router; if you can swap out the antenna on either one (or both if you're super serious :P) with a decent patch antenna. That'll boost the signal in a big way.

Sure, there's not too much to it. I started with a quality USB WiFi adapter that had a detachable antenna (RP-SMA connector): https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0035APGP6/ and replaced the stock omni antenna with a directional panel antenna: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003CFATNS/ Now the Alfa adapter I linked can output up to 2000mw of power, which is outrageous, especially with a 9dbi antenna, so I always dial it back to something more reasonable like 100-200mw. You don't want to overpower the radio in the access point you're trying to connect to. This can be set via software and the steps vary depending on the operating system you're using. (on Linux you'd set it with 'iwconfig wlan0 txpower 20' for 100mw or 23 for 200mw)

Thanks for the detailed explanation!

>We used electric heat at first but running on 15amps instead of a 30 or 50 amp power source from campground

I'm building mine for shore power, but that's a really good point. Getting 120V is easy; getting more than 18A, not so much. (If only we had 220V...)

\> We're using 12v for everything we can

I'm leaning towards this as well - even on shore power. Gutting an RV or camper is by far the cheapest option for fixtures, and efficient 120-\>12V power supplies for server use are a dime a dozen.

\> I'm going to see if I can get a USB wifi card with awesome range and see if I can hop on that.

You want a [BIG damn 2.4 ghz antenna.](https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Directional-Parabolic-Connector-TL-ANT2424B/dp/B003CFATOW) In addition to boosting the signal in *both* directions (improving your card is worthwhile, but only for transmission!) it reduces noise - it can't "see" anything it's not pointing directly at. You can also build one with a soup can and a satellite dish.

If you're on a tight budget, the best solution is to run a cable.

If you want a simple set up, since you're not an advanced user, a cable is your best option.

If you want security, a cable is your best option.

You can try a directional wifi antenna. But I cannot guarantee you the same performance as a cable, not even close. Also bare in mind any obstructions, suck as trees, and walls.

This would be the other alternative, but my guess is, it's out of your budget.

What I'd do, is run some conduit from one place to the other. Get some Cat6a, run that and place a switch and/or a router on the other end. More work, better security, better connection, cheaper.

I would go for something like this: Dual Band antennas are pretty shitty https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Directional-Parabolic-Connector-TL-ANT2424B/dp/B003CFATOW

That's actually no problem! You don't need to actually boost the transmission, you just need a better antennae for your receiver. You can buy wifi antennae which can pick up a wifi signal from very long distances, up to about 2 miles with some tech! Here's one of them.

http://www.amazon.com/TL-ANT2424B-Directional-Parabolic-connector-resistant/dp/B003CFATOW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1454199864&sr=8-2&keywords=directional+wifi+antenna

If you also buy another wifi hotspot and hook it into the home network, and a second antenna, and hook the second antenna into the wifi hotspot's transmitter, and then aline both antennas dishes, you can get very very fast wifi through this method. That will also work better on days with say, rain or other atmospheric conditions that occlude signals. But it will work with just the one as well.

The process is basically easy as "Mount antenne to wall, attach antenne to USB wifi recever. Stick into usbport."

How's the signal from this when compared to a parabolic one like this?

Maybe this Asus Q501LA-BBI5T03:

• 15.6 inch, 1080p IPS touchscreen
  
• Intel i5-4200U + 6 GB of RAM
  
• 750 GB HDD
  
• under one inch
  
• Price: $749.99
  
  > Something else I would like but not entirely sure exists is something that will increase the range of receiving a wifi signal? A building down from where I work has a wifi signal we can use but since its kind of far we lose the signal at random times.
  
  If your boss allows it you could hook up an external antenna to the access point and point it on your house. Something like this Directional Grid Parabolic Antenna from TP-Link.

For about $100 you can buy equipment that will let you connect to the internet from several miles away with clear line of sight.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CFATOW

You still need your own power source though. Generators don't cost too much either.

This has been discussed a bit here: http://www.reddit.com/r/TinyHouses/comments/2i72er/tiny_houses_for_techie_people/

I'm currently building a tiny hacker house outside of Houston in a somewhat rural area. I work remotely as a software engineer and plan to be on the road quite a bit, so having good Internet is an important part of my design.

The way I'm solving this problem is two-fold:

1. Use a directional Wi-Fi antenna like this one. They're cheap and can pick up a reliable coffeeshop Wi-Fi signal miles away if used with a good adapter. Even better if you can find another home or business willing to bridge their connection to you. Microwave is another option for bridging... it can provide extremely low-latency, high-bandwidth connections for just a few hundred dollars of equipment.
   
   
2. If Wi-Fi isn't available, use a hotspot device. I've built a custom hotspot device with LTE and GPS antenna connectors using parts from here. It's pricey, but you can pick up LTE miles away with a connected Yagi antenna. With T-mobiles hotspot plans, you get LTE speeds until the quota limit, and then you're throttled to 2G speeds (but unlimited data) after that.
   
   -- or --
   
   I'm not advocating this since it's a bit shady, but, if your phone can get a decent T-Mobile LTE signal, you can sign up for their unlimited plan on a jailbroken iPhone and use a couple different apps to masquerade your computer's connections through the phone's usual APN. Supposedly this bypasses your tethering quota but theoretically they could suspect something through HTTP headers if unencrypted. If connected through VPN, however, it'd be very difficult to prove the connections aren't coming from the phone itself.
   
   Hope this helps!

Get two of these and point them at each other. More info.

You might not get 100Mbps without line-of-sight, but as long as the trees aren't too bad, you'll get at least 20Mbps.

Edit: these are cheaper and might be able to push signal farther for a PtP link. Sometimes I think there is redundancy in the Ubnt product lineup.

I see what you mean. Given that, there are only a few low-cost options that I've had actual time working with, and these were my favorite for your application. I have to agree with the Ubiquiti fans; they make a great product. I can't remember the ping on these thing, so I guess someone else here can comment regarding latency, but they'll pump 150-200 Mbps if you get 'em aligned with a straight shot, so that might cut it for you if you want to hook up COD or something. Good luck, man! I hope you don't run afoul of the local authorities in your quest for bandwidth!

Ubiquiti Nanobridge NB-5G25 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004MYZ8U2/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_MS8Yub0YS8NTZ

And Meraki MR18's for the APs.

I have done this multiple times before, but with pcie wireless cards. In my experience switching antennas has not made any difference at all so long as you have proper wifi coverage thought your house. If you are having issues with the wireless router being too far and only getting one or two bars of signal, then yes, switching antennas will make a difference depending on what you get.

Personally I would not replace the antenna that your motherboard comes with. You can just roll up all the wire and leave the antenna behind your desktop or maybe even hide it under your desk. But if you still insist then I believe something as basic as this should work.

Edit: if you do decide to buy antennas for it, make sure you buy the appropriate male or female connector. IDK what your mobo needs so just check for it. The one I link is a female connector.

Are you talking about just the little antenna? Like these?

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-ANT2408CL-Omni-directional-Antenna-connector/dp/B004UBUE2O/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1452649800&sr=1-4&keywords=wifi+antenna

I think it's a universal size.

The high gain antennas I used on my last router were almost 15"

TP-Link 2.4GHz 8dBi Indoor Omni-directional Antenna, 802.11n/b/g, RP-SMA Female connector (TL-ANT2408CL) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UBUE2O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_dHTPCbCV23MCQ


There are taller / higher gain than those.

So, you're on WiFi as well? What happens if you plug into your router and run via ethernet?

I'm thinking the range extender is interfering with your Wifi. (channel overlap).

It also might be worth getting rid of the extender and trying bigger antenna on the router.

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-ANT2408CL-Omni-directional-Antenna-connector/dp/B004UBUE2O

http://www.amazon.com/Super-Power-Supply%C2%AE-WZR-HP-G450H-TL-WR1043ND/dp/B00DMJI9TA

You might also benefit from upgrading to something with 3x3 MIMO rather than just 2x2. The router you have now is pretty old.

I'm a fan of the Asus units right now.

I've got two of these:

http://www.amazon.com/RT-N16-Wireless-N-Maximum-Performance-single/dp/B00387G6R8

With extended antennas on them. Range is awesome.

All correct, just adding info. Only the center pin and one ground NEED to be connected, but I do recommend doing at least one ground on each side if possible for more strength. Alternatively, get a few of these, whichever type you need, cut off the pci micro side and solder it on to have a wired port if that would benefit the build at all.

yeah it's totally missing, you only need one though, https://www.amazon.com/U-FL-RP-SMA-Pigtail-Antenna-Cable/dp/B005UWD0EG

connect it to the side that says Main on the chip
and also get a wifi antenna

https://www.amazon.com/TECHTOO%C2%AE-Antenna-Connector-Wireless-Extender/dp/B00NVG5YZG/ref=sr_1_6?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1506421079&sr=1-6&keywords=wifi+antenna

I posted the Amazon links to give you a general idea of the parts that are missing.

I mean you can seek out and try adapters like this one, I just searched for MMCX RP-SMA adapter on Amazon.

The other option, if you are a little more brave, is to swap out the connectors. The wireless card on that board is an Intel 8265, connects to your motherboard by an M.2 connector. On the card are 2 mini connectors called IPX or U.FL. The metal box should just be screwed into your motherboard from the bottom, and if you were to remove that, you should be able to remove the MMCX to IPX cables (called pigtails generally), possibly with a nut on the inside of that box. You could then swap it out for a different pigtail like this.

Up to you. Sorry you have to deal with annoying connectors.

Might I suggest a yagi like this one (https://www.amazon.com/Yagi-WiFi-Antenna-2-4GHz-15dBi/dp/B008Z4DNFC).

Have you already tried just using highly directional 2.4GHz antennas such as this https://www.amazon.com/Yagi-WiFi-Antenna-2-4GHz-15dBi/dp/B008Z4DNFC/ ? That'd probably be the easiest solution so long as the building inbetween isn't killing the signal too much. If it is, setting up a repeater on a side/corner/roof of the building preferably where you've got line of sight to both ends of your connection would work.

700MHz does require an FCC license, which would've been relatively easy to get when the card was new, but now cellphone carriers are often using that band for their LTE service.

Can't see any USB to mini PCIe adapters available, there are some for mini PCIe, which is only possible since mPCIe uses both a PCIe and a USB interface on the card.

I've set up some 5 and 6 ghz beams that went over a mile, and they look weird. Like, looks like a TV antenna but with 20 elements. Super narrow beam path. Like this but on steroids.

Actually this one might be worth a try, and at $30 you're not putting a hole in your pocket.

I know nothing on the subject, so noob questions below:

Is it this? https://www.amazon.com/Yagi-WiFi-Antenna-2-4GHz-15dBi/dp/B008Z4DNFC

What's the difference between that and https://www.amazon.com/USB-Yagi-directional-Antenna-802-11n-2200mW/dp/B003LLS5JI?

What booster do I need? What is a booster? How do I convert whatever jack is there to USB?

This is a good solution. I haven't heard the change polarization thing though. Lots of towers stack antennas front and back top and bottom. Different frequencies in that case, often separate bands. That getting said in this case there is no transmit. The worst case here and it's time delayed multipath I think it would be fine.

Tupavco TP512 Yagi Wi-Fi Antenna 2.4GHz 15dBi H:30° V:25° Outdoor Directional Wireless N-female https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008Z4DNFC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AAk7AbQGG4BRK

That's what I'd try first. Back to back them on a guyed mast.

Here is the mobile version of your link

router:dd-wrt plus yagi antenna. solar: 400w of panel wired in series MPPT charge controller, 8 deep cycle batteries 4 series pairs in parallel, and a couple inverters a 2kw for the lights/ other big stuff(crock pot, rice cooker, electric grill, small heater for the tent in the winter) and a cheap 500 watter from walmart for everything else and of course a coleman electric cooler as a fridge.
edit: i also have a cheap single burner propane stove hooked to a 5lb tank ... i'm on month 13 since i filled it, and at the very least i make coffee on it twice a day.

Getting replacement antennae is not terribly expensive. I bought an Asus Z270i and am planning on replacing the wireless card with an Intel 8265 and adding something like this, as I am not terribly fond of the flimsy antenna deal it comes with.

They're standardized. These are good.

If you're getting a low signal, your best bet would be to buy a directional antenna and properly position it to have as few obstructions and the most direct connection to your WiFi Router/Access Point. [Here] (https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-APA-M25-directional-connector-WL-ANT-157/dp/B00R1PA9EO/ref=sr_1_1?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1479957653&sr=8-1&keywords=WL-ANT-157) and [Here] (https://www.amazon.com/Super-Power-RT-AC66U-WZR-HP-G450H-Nighthawk/dp/B00DMJI9TA/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479957417&sr=8-1-fkmr2&keywords=7db+antenna+wifi+dual+band) are examples of some directional antennas. Another consideration is to connect some sort of base with an extension to the antennas so you can place the antennas on the table and level with your WiFi Router/Access Point. Also, make sure that if you have a WiFi Router/AP with external antennas that the antennas are perfectly vertical and that the antennas on your computer are exactly vertical too.

Most of the mobile hotspots have TS9 RF ports. At that point it is all about finding what fits and your specific use case.

This is a good place to start https://www.amazon.com/Netgear-6000450-MIMO-Antenna-Connectors/dp/B00DN3J03O and if you are a little more serious, a tripod, along with a TS9 male to N male adapter, and this antenna https://www.amazon.com/Electronics-Wideband-Directional-700-2700-314411/dp/B00J14YEHQ/ can pull in signals that normally are unusable.

While I haven't used it myself, Netgear does offer their own antenna that I've heard good things about. It's for sale on Amazon and isn't too pricy:

https://www.amazon.com/Netgear-6000450-MIMO-Antenna-Connectors/dp/B00DN3J03O/ref=sr_1_1?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1486605194&sr=1-1&keywords=netgear+4g+antenna

1 of Netgear 6000450 MIMO Antenna with 2 TS-9 Connectors

Also have 2 directional antenna setups using dual Wilson Electronics Wideband Directional Antenna 700-2700 MHz, 50 Ohm (314411)

I only got the netgear from amazon; but those should still be the same models.

I used [this one] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NQGVMSE/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_RJTrDb8VPDSPP). I haven't tried the cheaper ones because amazon wouldn't ship them to where I live.

Bought the dish made by a local ham. One person is successfully using
https://www.amazon.com/Antenna-World-G2424-Directional-Parabolic/dp/B00NQGVMSE/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1523554123&sr=1-1&keywords=wifi+grid+dish

Just get a wifi antenna. Some are pretty decent.

https://www.amazon.com/Antenna-World-G2424-Directional-Parabolic/dp/B00NQGVMSE

8miles if you feel crazy.

They're likely talking about something like this. A directional wifi antenna can pick up a wireless signal from a fairly far off point. You could also build a cantenna.

I would get a USB wireless dongle, USB extension, and a directional antenna. To make this work, the dongle must have a removable antenna. If shipping is not an expense, I would buy step-by-step, starting with the dongle, then extension, finally the antenna (and antenna mounting solution).

I have no personal experience with this equipment. It was chosen because of features (like replaceable antennas) and Amazon reviews.

Alfa AWUS036AC Long-Range Dual-Band AC1200 Wireless USB Adapter With 2x Dual-Band (2.4GHz / 5GHz) external antenna for Extreme Distance Connection - Up to 300 Mbps - USB 3.0 - AC1200 Wireless chip - USB desktop Dock Included

CableCreation Gold (Long 16FT) Super Speed USB 3.0 Active Extension Cable, USB 3.0 Extender USB A-Male to A-Female Cable, 5Meter/16ft, Black

Alfa APA-M25 dual band 2.4GHz/5GHz 10dBi high gain directional indoor panel antenna with RP-SMA connector (compare to Asus WL-ANT-157)

All together, this is 95 CAD, but I expect the first item will solve the problem. If you do get the high-gain antenna, try it as a replacement of each of the side antennas on the USB dongle. This is because one antenna might be more important to the device then the other.

You aren't going to find anything that'll work well in that price range.

for $100ish you might be able to

What you're likely looking for is called a point to point wifi bridge.

Without having done much research something like this is about as affordable as it gets and you'd want a pair. All in all, considering the cost of extra ethernet cords and misc things you're looking at $150 on the low end of things.
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-5GHz-LiteBeam-23DBI-LBE-5AC-23-US/dp/B01ANIQCE6/

Do you know if Bluetooth will work with only that antenna and Intel card? I know a lot of PCI-E WiFi & Bluetooth adapters that require an internal USB connection to work with Bluetooth so not sure if the same would apply here (and if so I don't know how one could add it).

And by the way, the antenna you linked is for mini PCI-E cards, not M.2. For M.2 you will need an antenna like this.

And these.

AX200NGW NGFF WiFi card. It's got 802.11ax Wi-fi and Bluetooth 5.0. https://www.newegg.com/p/0XM-00HX-00047?Item=9SIA4RE99K7038

For the antenna it's a pain because this card has tiny ports. So I used these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E29566W

I ended up using pliers to get the antenna connections on. I think I overdid it, though. They can come undone pretty easy now. I hope you have good eyes if you get the same form factor.

On your decision to avoid the Kraken X62 because of its software, it's not a bad way to go. The software is super intuitive and the lighting effects look awesome, if you can get it to detect your AIO, that is. I would say CAM detects my X62 every 1 in 3 fresh boots, and the other 2 times it just doesn't acknowledge my cooler and I can't change the lighting or fan curves. I don't know know how good Corsair Link is, otherwise I could recommend you to check out the H100i/H115i since it has similar lighting features.

With regards to the motherboard, if built-in wifi is a necessity, you can do what I did and get the cheaper Hero board and just add your own wifi card. The Hero actually has an empty slot beneath the I/O shroud for an M.2 wifi/bluetooth card. This is the card I got, you'll also need antennas that connect to the card via tiny snap-on clips. The Hero's I/O shield has holes for the antenna that you have to punch out, and then you install the shield like normal and just screw on the antennas afterwards. Apparently the built-in wifi for the Code/Formula isn't too great, so this might be your best option.

Lastly, the Hero doesn't have too many internal USB headers, so if you go with that board then you'll need an internal USB hub which adds more slots. The convenient thing about this newer version is that the base is magnetic, so you can stick it wherever you want for ideal cable management.

The guys over at r/Stratux use a custom built antenna from DMurray14. Properly installed with ground plane, this antenna has given us the best coverage (more than is actually needed for flight safety, ie. do i really need to know about an airplane 200 miles away??). But for PlaneTracking, it could be very useful.

https://www.amazon.com/ADS-B-High-Gain-Antenna-FULL/dp/B01EJUM83S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468594731&sr=8-1&keywords=dmurray14+antennas

Help me spend this $25 Amazon gift card ? I have a NooElec NESDR SMArt (25MHz - 1750MHz) and this RP SMA mag mount and I'm looking for suggestions for wide band/general purpose antennas. The only frequency I currently have in mind is 433MHz, otherwise I'm just looking for some wide band/general purpose suggestions.

They came with the mobo. They are standard 2.4ghz/5Ghz antennas you can find on Amazon.

Just check it your wifi connectors are RP-SMA or SMA.

If the Asus one has a proprietary connector, i doubt theres enough demand of people that have used up all their PCI-E slots and want to change the built in card. Why not just get 2 sets of these and just mod your case a bit? No, it wont be as pretty as the built in solution but it will give you what you need in your specific circumstances

Got the same motherboard. Bought these last week and they’ve been great. Actually getting 5mbps more on average vs. the ugly shark fin.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WD7FZV4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I can confirm that the 2m version of that does not work reliably.

TRENDnet Low Loss RP-SMA Male to RP-SMA Female Antenna Cable, 2 m (6.5 ft.), 1.45 dB Max Signal Loss, TEW-L102

Can confirm that https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B071Y7FXWW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 worked for me. No issues whatsoever. Worked as well as running without an extension cord.

So the ethernet over power idea will only work if there is a direct power line spanning the two buildings. I have a pair and they work but they're finicky about where they are placed. You might have a better bet using directional wifi extenders. You can attach one of these to the router sitting inside the main house and point it at your apartment preferably from a window. The product's page has different models from which you can choose what sort of range you would like.

What you are looking for is called an Amped Wireless Range Extender. If your router has a RP-SMA Male connector, you can use a Directional or Yagi Antenna.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CFATNS

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NQGVMSE

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JGUGKYU

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004NBL9WK

Normal omnidirectional antennas like you have receive equally in all directions. Which means they don't get a strong signal in any particular direction either. This is useful for laptops and cellphones for example, but not so much for stationary things like desktops.

What you want is a directional gain antenna. Something like this could work... But it would only work on normal 802.11n mode with no fancy beamforming or anything like that.

But if this weak signal is in your house, it might be better to just get a wifi repeater.

On the fairly cheap side of your options, you could try a directional antenna with maybe 6-9db of gain or so and point it to the tv. The signal may be strong enough with just that addition.

Something like this

edit: I just realized this is the triple antenna deal, same router as I have. It might be able to handle using one of the antennas with gain, not sure, that I would ask D-link.

I had a similar issue, the only broadband provider that serviced my area except satellite was a line of site provider. Problem was my house was not in line of sight of their tower. My solution was to get a pair of these. http://www.amazon.com/TL-ANT2424B-Directional-Parabolic-connector-resistant/dp/B003CFATOW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404936652&sr=8-1&keywords=wifi+parabolic+antenna and hook them to relevant Wi-Fi devices (in my case a wrt54G and a desktop configured as a bridge). I set a power pole I had laying around up on top of the hill and ran power to it(had some old outdoor romex laying around). System has been working for 9 years with one replacement of the router

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Directional-Parabolic-Connector-TL-ANT2424B/dp/B003CFATOW 24db gain! This would be my personal choice but for almost $300 I'd look for buildable designs, like you. If you built a long multi-element yagi and you did a good job, might might get close to that number - maybe.

You may be able to find one of these dishes on ebay. I have one I snagged from a tv station throwaway pile.

Height above ground isn't as important as line-of-sight. Wifi frequencies are affected by obstructions between antennas, so in a perfect world, standing at your antenna you should be able to see (with your eyes) their antenna. If there are obstructions, you may need to tweak your antenna location.

Best of luck!

Yagi antennas might work. I also have one of these parabolic dish antennas: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CFATOW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_QZSjzb2ZD4R2R which can be coupled to this usb wifi adapter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0035GWTKK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_64SjzbXEZ1WX8 the dish antennas are very directional though.

This should give you a couple more bars. https://www.amazon.com/Network-Wireless-802-11g-Adapter-AWUS036H/dp/B000WXSO76/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1498670299&sr=8-2&keywords=alpha+networks+awus036h It will allow you to hook up one laptop. If you want wifi for several devices hook up the above with this device https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-R36-Repeater-Extender-AWUS036H/dp/B004ZF0I3U/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1498670299&sr=8-4&keywords=alpha+networks+awus036h
With the combination you are taking your neighbors wifi boosting their signal strength and then creating your own wifi network for everyone in your house to use. I have had this set up at my lake house for several years. I us a high gain antenna like this https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Directional-Parabolic-Connector-TL-ANT2424B/dp/B003CFATOW/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1498670676&sr=8-12&keywords=high+gain+wifi+antenna
pointed across the lake (1500 feet est) at my friends house and use the above devices to create my own wifi for my house. It works for internet browsing but its not enough speed for streaming video. You may just want to start with the alpha hooked to one pc and see how that goes and what king of increase in signal and speed you get. The nice thing about all of this is since it is from Amazon any/all can be returned. All the pieces add up in price but if it gives you free internet you can justify it and the return on investment is really good considering how expensive internet would be especially for occasional use.

LOL... OK, I confess to only briefly glancing at the link when I was in a location with crap coverage. Point being that the title "How to BUILD a long distance antenna" made me think someone was actually building an antenna rather than simply parting together a system (which is what it appears is actually in the link).

That said, this is the antenna I used. The other half of my system was a garden variety 1/2 wavelength dipole POS antenna like those that come with any 2.4 GHz system. As stated previously, I was running 0.1 watt and getting 1.5 miles reliably without even really trying. I suspect I could have done 2 miles if I'd actually put some effort into aiming the antenna but I only needed about 0.75 miles for my final application so I never bothered to really push the system.

It's not fake at all. I install long range Wifi solutions. Last thing I did was a stable 20 mbit connection from the basement of a apartment building to the top floor. Two of these point to point.

Plus a booster on both. On each end a DIR-835 router with OpenWRT in WDS mode.. You just need to align them good enough and find a path with the least amount of interference. Yeah that's 20 mbit of internet through like 5 or 6 concrete floors.

If I would take that system and put it outside and high enough and then use lasers to get them to align with each other perfectly I could easily do 20 mbit over 40 or 50 KM. As long as the signal is line of sight. And I would probably not even need the boosters.

This type of antenna is called a yagi antenna. They are directional antennas so the signal is not spread out equally in all directions but focused in to a tight beam. You need one on each end to create a long distance wifi link. Over a longer distance the signal needs to be line of sight. With expensive enough equipment I could do 9 km with some trees in between the signal and still get 5 or 10 mbit of internet.

Your only hope is to put the router in the cinderblock wall house, in a window that you can see the other house from. If you can't get a signal in the other house still, you will have to either run CAT5 cable to the other house, or get one of these and point it at the house: http://www.amazon.com/TL-ANT2424B-Directional-Parabolic-connector-resistant/dp/B003CFATOW

With the antenna you may still need to buy another repeater to put in the 2nd house, depending on the size of the 2nd house.

You will definitely need a parabolic antenna:
http://www.amazon.com/TL-ANT2424B-Directional-Parabolic-connector-resistant/dp/B003CFATOW

This will probably get the HOA on your ass but this is the biggest cheapest 2.4Ghz antenna I know about. Free shipping with Prime, too.

This is the antenna I'm looking at. My range needs are on the higher side of moderate. Also, due to the nature of the public connection and the monitoring being done on it, I am unable to access the admin settings on the public router or even locate the physical box itself. So far everything I have found is either a range extender for a single laptop, or a setup requiring access to the router either physically or as an admin.

As I type this I realize my circumstances sound sketch, but I am on a military base and trying to get a wifi signal from the morale center to our lodging area.

Umm.. im not quite sure what you mean by "radio". It is this product ( https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Directional-Parabolic-Connector-TL-ANT2424B/dp/B003CFATOW) installed in the roof. It has an outlet of ethernet cable on its back. The ethernet cable connects to an adapter thingy (inside home) in a LAN port labelled PPPOE. Then the another lan cable connects that adapter to my router (which is my current internet source). I don't know how much of it made sense.. But thanks for trying to help out!

Pretty cool. I do think that this many antennas doesn't really do much though in the stock configuration. 8 omnidirectionals is a waste.

It would be a neat device to play with if you hooked a bunch of directional antennas to it in the middle of nowhere. I played with one of these a few years ago and it was pretty crazy how far it would detect other access points. The dish is about the size of a coffee table.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003CFATOW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1509992671&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=24+dbi+parabolic+antenna&dpPl=1&dpID=41hVS%2BXN3ML&ref=plSrch

Ideally you’d want something like this but you probably wouldn’t be able to get away mounting it outside if your apartment.

Something like this might do this trick though if you’ve got good line of sight.

If you have a friend or relative nearby in one of their service areas, line of sight, and somewhere to mount 2 small antennas, you could easily do a wireless shot from one location to the other for probably less than $500.

Depends on how important fast internet access is for you, but there's almost always a way. With today's consumer grade wireless equipment, with a high enough point and line of sight, you can easily do 20+ miles.

Look into Ubiquiti gear if you're interested. A pair of these should easily do 5+ miles, properly aligned.

http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Nanobridge-NB-5G25-Outdoor-25DBI/dp/B004MYZ8U2/

It's like $100 for the dish, then all you need is a way of pointing it at center camp and a wifi router. blackrockwifi.net is helpful, in case you weren't aware.

TP Link sells their own antenna on Amazon and it seems to have better reviews than the one you linked.

Aside from that, how did you come up with the 40 Ohm figure? I can't find any reference to impedance on that product page.

I have a few of this brand, they're all great. Atheros chipsets work like a charm.

Bonus, this one has a replaceable standard antenna, so you can hook up a antenna like this so no need to worry about range

Would two of these be better antennas? And I am pretty sure the motherboard has a slot to hold the antennas...

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-ANT2408CL-Omni-directional-Antenna-connector/dp/B004UBUE2O/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1458374500&sr=1-1&keywords=rp-sma

Thanks again

For wifi?

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Omni-directional-Antenna-connector-TL-ANT2408CL/dp/B004UBUE2O/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1493537995&sr=1-4&keywords=wifi+antenna

Is this what I'm looking for?

Would this be as effective as a separate PCI card?

depends really on what kind of setup you are planing.

if you have a laptop you could go with something like this.

i used to have a small pc that had a sma antenna outlet. so i just got the right wifi sma extension cable and a bigger antenna and fixed it to the roof.

to reach wifi ninja skills, read the book at http://wndw.net/

> Wireless Networking in the Developing World is a free book about designing, implementing, and maintaining low-cost wireless networks.

I have several suggestions for that. On the USB side, go with a TP-Link TL-WN722N: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002SZEOLG (install only the drivers, use the website's version, not the disc)

In addition to that, pick up one of these no matter which of the options I show you, you'll thank yourself over and over: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UBUE2O

Next, on the PCI front, you'll want to use a NETIS WF-2118 300Mbps Wireless N PCI Adapter: https://www.newegg.com//p/N82E16833389021

Unless, by PCI you mean PCI-E, then in that case, get a FebSmart Wireless AC 1200Mbps Dual Band PCI Express (PCIe) Wi-Fi Adapter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DBPLXWK

And again, no matter which you choose, pick up the high gain antenna(s) to go along with it, be sure to report back too, wanna see what you gained, and good luck. My daughter had the same trouble at college with her laptop, the high gain antenna fixed her right up. This might just be your only problem, hard to say.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005UWD0EG/

Under $5 for 2, with Amazon Prime.

You'll need two U.FL to RP-SMA cables, and RP-SMA wireless antennae. You can get them in a kit. You still need to find a way to mount the antennae.

Sounds messed up. You could try a couple of these(https://www.amazon.com/U-FL-RP-SMA-Pigtail-Antenna-Cable/dp/B005UWD0EG), so you can use 'normal' WiFi antennas.

​

Good Luck!

Thanks but no, i just edited my comment to specify the exact part, but it’s this one...but these connectors were too big for the card:


U.FL Mini PCI to Reverse Polarity SMA Pigtail Antenna WiFi Cable Pack of 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005UWD0EG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_26FWDb0NHZNQX

You probably want something like this for the antennae: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005UWD0EG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_6R3WDb3RAMYK1

https://www.amazon.com/U-FL-RP-SMA-Pigtail-Antenna-Cable/dp/B005UWD0EG

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Tupavco-TP512-Wi-Fi-Antenna-2-4GHz/dp/B008Z4DNFC

​

You will need some other tech to connect it to your local access point. Something like a N-Type Male Connector to RP-SMA Female Antenna. They come as cables of different length. You'll want to mount the Yagi antenna on a pole so it has nice line of sight to its target. As has been mentioned, they are quite directional, so you will need to dial that in. The above antenna might not be the ideal one for your situation, but something *like* that should do the trick.

The Yagi antenna connects to an access point, which then broadcasts regular 802.11n/g wifi for your computer to pick up, or has ethernet hookups.

​

Best of luck.

100 W WiFi antenna

You might need a directional antenna, to be honest. And if you're looking to capture a Wi-Fi signal from a distance, something like this should do the trick: https://www.amazon.com/Tupavco-TP513-Antenna-2-4GHz-17dBi/dp/B008Z4I7WQ/

Oh man. I doubt a PowerLine adapter would work.

Option 1. Run a cat5 cable. Find someway of doing it. But I can't tell if there's a good way of doing it perminantly. You could always just do a temp one everytime there's an update.

Option 2. Buy more Google WiFi. Ask to put one in that neighbor's house. While you're at it might as well ask if he wants to ditch his internet and just share a connection. If you've got like 50mbps that's more than enough for 2 houses...

Option 3. Buy two directional antenna.

Tupavco TP513 Yagi WiFi Antenna 2.4GHz 17dBi Angle H:25° V:24 Outdoor Directional Wireless https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008Z4I7WQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0RkZCbVVPEWRK

And point them at each other. I don't know what to use as a bridge/repeater. All these fucking new routers have 50 antennas and all unremovable! God we've gone backwards.

Couple of options:

• To mooch wifi from free hotspots / friends, you can do that with a regular laptop / phone. To boost your range, you'll most likely want a wifi booster of some kind. Traditional wifi boosters would look like: Big wifi antenna -> black box -> smaller wifi antenna inside the van -> your laptop/phone
  
• A cheaper version of a booster is to "make" one. Get a Yagi wifi antenna + a wifi adapter then connect the adapter to your laptop via USB. It's a bit more involved to do this for your phone. Just remember you have to point the antenna to the wifi source to get the best signal
  
• Get a 3G/4G/Mifi box which will connect to a cellular network and output a wifi hotspot you can connect to. If the signal is sparse, you can try getting a 3G Yagi antenna and plugging it into the 3g box though I'm less sure about that and am currently looking into it myself since those boxes typically have two antennas (one for receiving and one for transmitting I believe)
  
• Tether your phone to your laptop and get 3G/4G internet that way

Either this or this should work well (If you go with the 1st link, you would need an N to SMA adapter).

At each building, you would need to mount the antennas and have them pointing at eachother, with the antenna cable running inside to some sort of 'WiFi bridge/router).

A router/extender like this would probably work. For the 'WiFi repeating (bridging)' mode, you would just have to figure out which antenna would be dedicated for receiving.

Well this would be my guess... M.2 is not the same as a PCIE-Mini.

https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Wireless-AC-8260NGW-867Mbps-Microsoft/dp/B016D7YB94

https://www.amazon.com/Wi-fi-Antenna-RP-SMA-Antennas-Cables/dp/B00A4I3AGE/

but by the time you get the card and an antenna your are already out another $35. Why not just get a motherboard that comes with the wifi already installed. http://pcpartpicker.com/product/QrVBD3/gigabyte-motherboard-gah170nwifi

edit: linked the wrong motherboard.

It depends on which model you get. For PCIe it's pretty straightforward and are usually included - see this for an example.

If you need mini-PCIe, then you need four U.FL to RP-SMA adapters and four antennas (like this 2-pack)

https://www.amazon.com/Wi-fi-Antenna-RP-SMA-Antennas-Cables/dp/B00A4I3AGE

Amazon has them for 10, you can probably find some even cheaper. From the reviews, it should work with this mobo

Dual Wi-fi Antenna Kit 5Dbi RP-SMA Antennas and 20cm/8" U.fl/IPEX to RP-SMA Cables https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A4I3AGE/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_5qOOwbAKC3G4C
This is what I used in mine.

Not to sure what you mean.
Here is the first-
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KBU61S8/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=dre-youtube-20&linkId=5d1f0fdbbe822d7847f33f3c3467a1a9
Here is the second antenna I have used
with better rssi.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A4I3AGE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Now here is an odd thing, when I use different antennas of the same kind, I get different swr ratings. I also purchased a 2dbi that has an swr value of 48 swr.

For future reference for others that may have these questions and come across this:

I just went ahead and ordered some "standard" antennas that screw directly onto the SMA connectors (specifically this). NOTE: luckily the "polarity" of the SMA connectors I ordered is correct, there is normal and reverse (I had ordered reverse). I guess typically reverse polarity connectors are used on wifi equipment. The 'male' pin is on the motherboard.

Using one single antenna on my motherboard works just fine, with nothing connected in the other SMA connector. The connection measures about 50% faster speed to a wired device on the network (from about 20 megabit previously to 30 megabit now) than the antenna that was included with the motherboard.

My wife's computer (the one that actually has the antenna issue, but we have identical computers, so I opted to discard the apparently flaky stock antenna on mine too) needed both antennas to get a good signal, but she has her computer in a small nook that probably is bad for radio signal. So, it appears like multiple antennas can improve signal quality. I haven't tried using multiple on my desktop that isn't cluttered though to compare. If I do I will report back here with results.

We're using 802.11n in my house, the motherboards are capable of ac, but the router is not (verizon router). It's hardly an ideal wireless setup though - the router basically has one spot it can be located in in one corner of the house, and both of our computers are in the other corner of the house, mine up a floor as well. I much prefer wired, but I haven't had the time or energy to tear up the number of walls I would need to to get it all run nicely.

one more question... when it just says RP-SMA for a router is that an RF connector? or would this work for me

Some do. It takes some digging but you may be able to find out about the transmitter's power and the gain of the antennas if you find the spec sheet.

If you are having problems you can also do things like buy even better antennas and put them on your router to get more signal

3 x 9 dBi 2.4 GHz RP-SMA Antennas

It will work just fine for 5ghz. Here's some that say 5Ghz.. Notice how they look exactly identical?

You don't have to get that one. You just need any antenna with a RP-SMA connector. That one's just by TP-LINK and it's cheap.

I only got two through five right in time, so here I go.

Broom - Witches and wizards use brooms to fly. Mary Poppins used an umbrella to fly. An umbrella is useful for school because sometimes it rains, and I don't know any anti-rain spells.

Hat - Witches are magic. Cats are magic. Vampires are also magic. The girl in moonphase is a vampire. These adorable cat ears are inspired by moonphase. They go on your head, and so do cats. I need these for school so people know right away that I am silly, and other silly people can flock to me and tell me how much they like my ears. We will then become friends.

Book - You read books, and they give you knowledge. I also read and gain knowledge from the internet. These would help boost my internet signal, which would give me better access to school, and to knowledge.

Trunk - I have junk in the trunk. These silk boxers would make my trunk comfy. I think they'd feel super comfy under my school robes, and comfort is very important for wizardry. It's hard to remember your spells and to focus on broom riding when you have underpants issues. They could also be used as modest, but comfy, sleepwear, which is considerate to have when you have a roommate. Are these NSFW, btw? I feel like they're not, but can never be too sure.

Cape - I could use these to knit or crochet a cape. I could use them for school because it's important to have a hobby to practice in your downtime. Life can't be all about magic, all the time. Plus, I could use them to make clothes in case I decide to free some house elves.

Thanks for the contest!

What about these?

I have this exact setup with 10.12.3 and get screaming fast connections using 80mhz wide AC protocol (my neighbors hate me for using that much bandwidth) - But occasionally it does drop down - not to any limit below my ISP download speeds, so no big.


There are MANY things you can do before you go out and buy new hardware -

• CMD+Click on the wifi icon in your menu bar to bring up the current connection stats. It will show you the channel you're connected to, the noise floor, the signal strength, the speed, your router IP, etc...
  
  
• Is your Wifi transmitter 2.4ghz only? Whats the protocol? AC? N? G? ...B??? If your wifi router is capable of both 2.4ghz and 5ghz, you should have both SSIDs and passwords set the same, that way your client can auto negotiate the best frequency at the moment. It should appear as one SSID to connect to.
  
  
• Download wi-fi analyzer on your phone and see how crowded your area is. Change the channel manually in your router if needed. Channels 1, 6 11 are the best to use in the US, but look at the channel chart and find a less crowded one and manually set the router to that if you have a lot of neighbors... do this for both the 2.4 and the 5 ghz bands (if available).
  
  
  
• Do you have your network / wifi system preferences setup as DCHP? Do you have a DNS entry in there? Do you have the correct router address?
  
  
• Delete the entire wifi entry and set it up again.
  
  
• Pull out the card, check that the antenna leads are securely pushed and seated into each of the 3 PCI-e adapter card's sockets (one of the 4 is for the bluetooth antenna)
  
  
• Check that the antennas are screwed into the back properly
  
  
• Move the PCI-e adapter card to a different slot.
  
  
• Move the router to a better area, put all the antennas pointing up. Move the router away from objects, especially TVs.
  
  
• Move your computer away from the wall or desk, arrange the antennas better.
  
  
• Do you have a USB 3 device such as a NAS plugged into your router? Remove it and test speeds. USB3 cables can interfere with wifi.
  
  
• Finally, you could just buy larger WiFi antennas, or even antenna extenders with a desktop mount - wifi antennas are a universal fit (SMA or RP-SMA).
  
  
  

There is one other way to boost the signal on routers that have removable external antennas.

Buy some of these:

Omni-directional antennas

You want to type in your router model and external antennas to make sure you get the correct ones.

I was wired for everything except mobile devices, I live in a very urban area full of wifi networks. If you open up a wifi signal list at my apartment there is a choice of 60+ networks.

After I put the antennas on my speeds increased greatly and I could go farther away from the router (in old buildings the walls are especially good at blocking signals). Finally the stronger signal was also able to knock out about 40% of the networks around me. I'm sorry neighbors!

You'll need one that is dual band and has the SMA screw connector on it. From there price and amplification level is really the only differences.

If you have Amazon Prime...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00UOKG6XQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1450475932&sr=8-3&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=dual+band+antenna+sma+5ghz&dpPl=1&dpID=41VkN4KIYvL&ref=plSrch

Or for better range but more money...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DMJI9TA/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1450475932&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=dual+band+antenna+sma+5ghz&dpPl=1&dpID=41AVPgZSeHL&ref=plSrch

I've been having the exact same experience with my Nighthawk M1. Was seeing 40-60Mbps, now I'm seeing about 4-6Mbps. It's been falling for the last 3-5 weeks maybe. I'll look into my signal stats this evening, but it's very interesting to hear someone else with the Nighthawk M1 is having a similar experience. I'll also try pulling my antenna to go from strong 2x2 MIMO to a weaker 4x4 MIMO.

I'm using a Netgear Aircard antenna and a UniFi gateway/switch/access point. Adding the access point roughly doubled my speeds (30-40 up from 15-20) and the antenna gave another 50% for the 40-60Mbps speeds. The gateway and switch have no impact on speed, they just allowing me to connect a Hue hub, put my Roku on a wire, add a PiHole for whole network ad blocking, that kind of thing. The PiHole is a nice speed boost on LTE internet btw.

I ordered this. Like I said, mixed reviews, but all the antennas had that. I think sometimes it just won't change your signal. If your signal is too weak it won't help, but also if you already have a good signal, it obviously isn't going to make it much better...

Hey bud, it's been a while. I was just looking over all of your suggestions. Long story short, I finally switched most of my lines to the FebUDP since we'll only be paying around $35/line after I get all 10 lines fired up. I kept one of my GUDP lines and put it on the loyalty plan with Verizon to use as a home wifi solution. I actually came across a guy and he sold me 4 6620L's and 3 5510's for $20! 2 of them still have working sim cards with 2gb/month lol.

I set up the 6620L but unfortunately my signal is not so hot. I manage to get 3 bars, and speeds up to 10mb download. Usually it is around 5 mb, which isn't too great. I heard good things about the AC791L and I started watching out for them on ebay. Do you have any input on how I can get a better, stronger signal before I go ahead and do some of the router stuff? I came across a few other things that might work as router solutions. Any experience?

https://www.netgear.com/service-providers/products/mobile/mobile-hotspots/DC113A.aspx#tab-compatibility

https://www.amazon.com/Netgear-6000450-MIMO-Antenna-Connectors/dp/B00DN3J03O

Especially this one if it works...:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NETGEAR-AirCard-Smart-Cradle-DC112A-for-Telstra-790S-782S-785S-810s/263302007925?hash=item3d4e05cc75:g:i1sAAOSwo4pYRu14

Thanks a lot in advance!

If you can't afford a booster you can give an antenna shot. Netgear makes this antenna that should work:

https://smile.amazon.com/Netgear-6000450-MIMO-Antenna-Connectors/dp/B00DN3J03O/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=MR1100+antenna&qid=1568585074&s=wireless&sr=1-3

You can also try this: https://www.amazon.com/Netgear-6000450-MIMO-Antenna-Connectors/dp/B00DN3J03O

I don't have much experience with the external antennas as I don't need them. However, my kid who lives in mountainous California says this antenna helped him. Just use the signal strength meter on the Nighthawk's diagnostic page to find the best placement.

-

Also remember that LTE shows as a lower signal than we are use to, so 2 bars would be at least 3 bars for 3g/4g.

https://www.amazon.com/Netgear-6000450-MIMO-Antenna-Connectors/dp/B00DN3J03O

Thank you! I seriously cannot say that enough. I've been calling the only ISP in my county for almost ten years now, begging them to extend their service to my house and they refuse, presumably because they wouldn't make enough money off of me to cover the costs of extending their coverage to include me. It is bullshit. If I lived one mile away, in any direction, I'd have internet.

Anyway, an issue:

The Netgear 6000450 MIMO Antenna you said you have, and which I should get, is 'Currently Unavailable' on Amazon. I assume I could substitute that antenna for something else, but is there anything in particular I need to look for when deciding on which antenna to purchase?

Also, did you mean to say there shouldN'T be a contract since I already have all the necessary equipment? Honestly, at this point I don't really care, I just want internet and if I have to sign a contract I will.

Another question regarding the part where you said:

Make sure you get the right sim size for it I did this over the phone. They won't be able to locate the IMEI immediately because it isn't a at&t device and had to escalate me to a supervisor to get permission activate it.

You told me at the beginning of your reply to write the LB1120's IMEI down when I get it, but then you say AT&T employees wont be able to find the IMEI at first because it isn't an AT&T device. Are you talking about a different IMEI or device than the one I will already have written down?

Also, did you mean routers are unlimited UNlike phones, eg. phone hotspot tethering?

As for the actual setting everything up after activation part, I feel like I can handle that pretty easily. I've had less-than-stellar experiences with AT&T in the past when dealing with super simple issues, so I'm not really looking forward to dealing with them on a complicated issue TBH, but I'm sure I can get it figured out.

Again, thanks times ten million for answering my questions. I now have hope for my digital future thanks to you!

I have used this:
https://www.amazon.com/Netgear-6000450-MIMO-Antenna-Connectors/dp/B00DN3J03O/ref=pd_bxgy_img_3/145-5035802-2440838

I found it to make almost no difference in RSSI (and speed, as one would expect given that fact). Someone else can comment, but I think you may lose 4x CA when you use an external antenna, as it disables the internal antennae when connected.

This was in a remote location with HSPA+ on Band 2.

(On a related note, if anyone with any power/knowledge happens to read this, can you please tell the folks at Northeast Wireless to chug a fatty. And maybe drop a quick explanation here of why they exist at all? AT&T just forgot to buy spectrum in northern new england and they're holding you hostage, or, wtf... Since it's not really AT&T does that mean no FirstNet?)

this one?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DN3J03O/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1518830861&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=netgear+mimo+antenna&dpPl=1&dpID=418JWOpGRBL&ref=plSrch

Netgear MIMO antenna

I've bought several different USB modems with terrible results. Recently I discovered an LTE device that goes to Ethernet instead of USB making it even more universal as a backup Internet connection for dual-wan routers and was super happy when I tested it out (with a T-Mobile SIM): Netgear 4G LTE Modem

My signal strength was okay but attaching an antenna added a few more megabits to my download speed as well.

I don't know if that helps or not but I'm definitely not messing with USB modems anymore after discovering how well this device worked for me, and my clients whether they're using SonicWall or ZyXEL or anything else with an RJ-45 port.

I've heard good things about antennas like this which can plug into the ts9 antenna ports on some portable modems ( like the ZTE Warp Connect )

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DN3J03O/

But if you are interested in a better modem and more serious antennas that can actually do 100mbps or more, check out www.ltefix.com and the LTE hacks group on facebook

Sorry for the slow update I was out out town. Anyways I purchased this antenna on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DN3J03O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

And now for some reason it's doing the Carrier Aggregation with the two bands I have setup in Putty. I thought this was very strange if I remove this antenna I loose the CA. My RSRP went from -105 to around -100 and my Quality from around 40 to around 45-50dbm. See the picture above to see the CA between bands B12 and B2. if you guys have any questions on commands and how to set it up please let me know or post here I'm getting more familiar with it the time I've used it. If someone can explain why it's CA now with the new antenna and not the internal that would be awesome!

Pretty bare-bones answer, but otherwise sounds like decent advice.

https://www.alfa.com.tw/products_show.php?pc=137&ps=225

"Alfa with a 9db gain antenna" would be something like these two products combined:

https://www.amazon.com/Alfa-Long-Range-Dual-Band-Wireless-External/dp/B00VEEBOPG

https://www.amazon.com/Antenna-World-Wireless-Adapters-Routers/dp/B00NQGVSM4

The quality of the wireless access point / router also factors in. If you have some cheap crap there, that can also be improved on.

Beyond just larger antennas, you can also go with directional antennas to "shoot" wifi at a specific point. There are various options all the way to some pretty "extreme" directional ones that give 24 dB amplification but in a very narrow "pencil beam" you have to aim very carefully indeed that's probably overkill here, but including the example anyway; there are less extreme directional panel antennas and the like also:

https://www.amazon.com/24dBi-Directional-Booster-Parabolic-Antenna/dp/B00NQGVMSE/

But mounting something like the above on the outside wall of the home office building and pointing at the house and aiming where the wireless router is would get the job done if nothing else will.

I would be looking at something like this: http://www.amazon.com/24dBi-Directional-Booster-Parabolic-Antenna/dp/B00NQGVMSE

Put one at each end and it should reach the distance. Not sure about that specific model, but the concept is there.

Thinking outside the box- what if you got a cell connection antenna to connect to the device at the end of the driveway? And then run your signal over the internet?

https://www.amazon.com/Antenna-World-G2424-Directional-Parabolic/dp/B00NQGVMSE
and a nice little DAC with quality usb cable. My home system uses Polk monitor 5 late version. If I had a sub I would be all set. The pro amp is for the fans which are quiet I have an x3000 and the headroom. You get less distortion with an over powered amp. Snag some used monitors of your choice. Look at speaker wattage ratings. When you see 75 wonder if that is enough(it's not for me).

RCmodelreviews has lots of really good videos on this, go through his channel and take a look.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bx7gMUw1MGw

You are going to be limited by the transmitters power, usually measured in mW or milli-watts. You wont get much distance gain from a whip antenna off of an internet router because it has a low dB gain. More gain means more transmitting power, but a much more narrow transmission band.

To increase the range you could try a patch antenna, which could potentially double your range, the trade off is that you would need to be pointing the antenna at your quad-copter at all times.

Buy a directional 2.4/5.8 GHz antenna and point it where you want better signal. Can also do that on the receiving side. These will cost around $20. Check radiation pattern of antenna type and orient accordingly.

Also I can't imagine a repeater (like a relay) being more than $50 either but I've never actually checked. Last option is a cheap Chinese booster (more output power, not as efficient as higher gain antenna) but it really isn't legal.

I don't know where to buy quality dual band antennas (TrueRC for my RC gear) but this would do the trick. Just make sure your router is RP-SMA.

https://www.amazon.ca/Alfa-APA-M25-directional-connector-WL-ANT-157/dp/B00R1PA9EO/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=dual+band+panel&qid=1555738579&s=gateway&sr=8-6

Hi there! If you're looking for the cheapest/ most effective option I'd recommend getting a used home router that does 802.11ac and swapping the antennas for something that is directional (after trying without first). I'd lean towards putting it in your apartment to amplify the transmission of downloads instead of hers to amplify the reception of those downloads since most internet traffic is download to the home, not upload. Also, having her connect to your current wifi may actually slow down your connection back at the house since everybody else has to wait on her slow connection and re-transmits.

If just the additional router fixes things you're good to go. But if her signal is still week, switching it to directional antennas pointing in her direction will increase her signal strength and also be better at hearing her computer from that direction.

So here is the detailed run down:

• Disclaimer: Please never use the Wifi to control a personal relationship, but sure as heck take it down if the relationship ends/ sharing Wifi becomes a problem for your family.
  
  
• Get a used but good older 802.11ac router since the higher possible data rates will allow for better data rates at lower signal strength as well. Something like this. I am biased towards Asus, but if you really like a different brand stick with the one you love.
  
  
• Plug your PC directly into the router to configure it to not hand out DHCP, and set a static IP address on the router that is in the range of what you're already using in your apartment, but not an address that your current home router is likely to give out. You can probably pick 192.168.x.254 since DHCP servers very often start low and go up. That x should, of course, be swapped with whatever number your home router uses there.
  
  
• Create a wifi network just for your girlfriend with a passphrase that she knows WPA2-PSK is what you are looking for for security. If you see the option you might set it to use a different wifi channel on 2.4 and 5GHz than the one you already have in your apartment, but it will probably pick one for you that is fine (1, 6, 11 only for 2.4Ghz to be a good RF neighbor)
  
  
• Use an ethernet cable to plug one of the LAN ports from your existing router into the LAN port of your new router (Don't use WAN because double routing and NATing creates problems you don't want to deal with here). Hopefully, you can put it in the part of your apartment that is closest to her's.
  
  
• See if everything is great.
  
  
  • If not you are looking for directional antennas buy at least two of something like this. Be sure you are getting something that supports both 2.4 and 5GHz, you are looking for something like 5dbi at 2.4GHz and 7 to 10 dbi at 5GHz. That is going to be a more directional antenna. Swap them for the omnidirectional antennas that come with the router and point the antenna towards her apartment to create a shaped signal (Think flashlight instead of a bare lightbulb). You don't want to just swap these on your own home router though since that shaped signal would probably reduce your own wifi coverage.
    
    Hope this helped some. Good luck!
    

What I use is an ALFA Network AWUS051NH v2 (Amazon UK) but I replace the antenna with a 10 dBi directional (Amazon UK). It gives me lots of range and flexibility.

There are other solutions, but this is mine.

So if you have a wired connection I don't have any solutions for you. If you are wireless I do.

First is to see if you have a 5g network and an adapter that can actually connect to that. I do and I wasn't because my adapter couldn't. The issue is if you have a lot of walls between you and the router that the 5g is actually worse for that so that part didn't help.

Second is to make sure your router isn't in an area surrounded with a lot of things that can block it. This includes physically.

Third (and between this and the second part it solved my lag issue in dungeons and raids) but a directional antenna for your adapter. It has a much better connection than a regular antenna which is enough for most people. Here is the link to the one I found.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R1PA9EO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Now a good way I was using to compare my success outside of just playing was to run this link (http://portableapps.com/apps/utilities/winmtr_portable) and ping one of the wow servers closest to me found on (https://us.battle.net/support/en/article/7648) Then let it run for about 60-90 seconds and see how bad my worst ping is. If it shoots up really high then you probably need to keep adjusting the aim on your directional antenna/ buy a better adapter/ move the location of your router/ buy a better router.

Depends on what hardware they use, and how well the line of sight is.

But look at this, for example: https://www.ubnt.com/airmax/litebeam-ac/

And then look here to see what awesome stuff like this costs these days: https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-5GHz-LiteBeam-23DBI-LBE-5AC-23-US/dp/B01ANIQCE6

https://smile.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-5GHz-LiteBeam-23DBI-LBE-5AC-23-US/dp/B01ANIQCE6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493540727&sr=8-1&keywords=litebeam

Your looking for something like this, the one you listed are not point to point.

After I put the chip in, how am I supposed to connect an antenna like this?

https://www.amazon.com/CHAOHANG-RP-SMA-Antenna-Soldering-Wireless/dp/B01E29566W/ref=pd_bxgy_147_img_2/146-7206220-6146607?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01E29566W&pd_rd_r=a580a731-6bcf-427c-97a8-955ec2ca308f&pd_rd_w=UefhK&pd_rd_wg=Al6CL&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=61AC6A3GV8PXFW8M3ZA0&psc=1&refRID=61AC6A3GV8PXFW8M3ZA0

You caught me at the store, so just to come back and cover it.

This is very viable as a wifi dongle and easily removed when not traveling. It has speeds that are faster than most isp's will provide, however like all non-wired connections (including the one already on this mobo), it does increase latency slightly. Also, This + This is also viable. I've never screwed around with an M.2 adapter though so no data on that, I think it's just plug and play, but youtube is your friend. What I was trying to avoid is putting this below the 1070 card on the mobo, and not have a dongle hanging out of it. If you're primarily wired though, plenty of options on other micro atx mobo's.

And I usually give an upgrade/downgrade option so...Personally if you wanted to upgrade and stay in budget, i'd go for a larger ssd and drop the hdd. Mind you, the monitor is cheaper than listed ($420 on dell.com and 399 on sale), so you would have ~$130 to add worth of ssd drive and still be at or below $2k. And to downgrade without losing much performance i'd go for an i5-6600k processor + micro atx mobo to match, which could save you ~$70-100 depending on setup.

Hope this helps, bud.

Don't buy one without an antenna, it really helps. Something like this

You'd need the wireless chip and a set of antennas.

The motherboard doesn't come with antennas so unless the Wi-Fi card does you'll need to find some. Both antennas serve both Wi-Fi and bluetooth.

This one on amazon seems to have the correct MHF4 connector for the 8260NGW and would mount in the holes on the backplate.

Oh, I see what you're wanting to do. You can get antennae like these and modify the rear IO shield of the motherboard to mount them, if there's space on the shield and the cable length reaches.

I bought this a while ago for the pigtail cables and ended up using the antennas too, rather than the ones that came with my Deskmini 110w but I can't remember exactly why. They perform.

Hey all, I've been scratching my head with this gigabyte motherboard.

So it has the smaller MMCX coaxil port which just snaps in. I need bigger antennas so I've been trying to go from this port to > SP-SMA.

However, this port also has threads on the plugs, so is this an MCX port? (I looked everywhere and MCX doesn't have threads??).

So basically I want to go from this port > SP-SMA and make sure it's snug and is screwed in tightly because I want to screw these kinds of antennas on it via an adapter:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E29566W/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A2GSGZU6CHJ9X3&psc=1

ok so "NGFF" interface is for M2_WIFI? so I need to buy and attach any antenna that's for NGFF and not for MINI PCI-e, right?

Edit: I'm so fucking confused right now. On the wikipedia page of NGFF it says that NGFF and M.2 is the exact same thing. So I need to stuff for that interface. The antennas you linked tell me that they work for that specific interface. But on the M.2 Wifi card that I bought, here's the manual, it says that the connector is M.2: PCIe, while in the product description for the antennas it says not to use with MINI PCIe, what the fuck is MINI PCIe is it the same? cause it fucking looks exactly the same as my card when I looked at the screenshots, except it's supposed to be NGFF (M.2) according to the specs. What even is anything?

I can't figure out if this wifi card came with antennas, like this. Have you attached any antennas to the card?

This setup contains the following:

• Raspberry Pi 3: http://www.amazon.com/Raspberry-Pi-RASP-PI-3-Model-Motherboard/dp/B01CD5VC92
  
• 2x Nooelec Nano2+: http://www.amazon.com/NooElec-NESDR-Nano-Ultra-Low-Compatible/dp/B01B4L48QU
  
• Stratux Acrylic Case w/ Fan: http://www.amazon.com/Stratux-Case-Fan-Tinted-Acrylic/dp/B01ERQCJF6
  
  Note that the stock Nano2+ antenna dongles are too long for the box. I have ordered DMURRY14's antennas from Amazon which have the right-angle cables that shouldn't have this problem: http://www.amazon.com/ADS-B-High-Gain-Antenna-FULL/dp/B01EJUM83S
  
  Just wanted to share for anyone using this Acrylic box.

Pretty much. I use ships power with mine.

Radio's

Antennas

Get a nice case 3D printed

Try these ------- ADS-B High Gain Antenna FULL Kit - Stratux Compatible - Genuine DMURRAY14 Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EJUM83S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_cUZ4xbH360XEB

they have cheaper ones of the same... but bluetooth doesnt need an antenna. and wifi only needs two if you want both 2.4ghz and 5ghz.

you can get two base and use your existing antenna. https://smile.amazon.com/HUACAM-HCM35N-Magnetic-Connector-Extension/dp/B01FJHLVOM/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1536001697&sr=8-6&keywords=wifi+antenna+base

You might not have to move the AVR. There are antenna extension cables that would let you move the antennae to a better location:

https://smile.amazon.com/HUACAM-HCM35N-Magnetic-Connector-Extension/dp/B01FJHLVOM/

Asus WiFi Go is their software. The actual thing you need is called an M.2/NGFF (Next Gen. Form Factor) wifi/wireless card. As well as some antenna such as this: https://www.amazon.com/Highfine-Wireless-Extension-Bulkhead-Repeater/dp/B01GMBUS8O/ref=sr_1_15?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1494648174&sr=1-15&keywords=ngff+wifi

just contact our customer support and say it didnt come with it or something. Otherwise they are pretty generic, most wifi antennas use the same connector called RP-SMA

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they look like this

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https://www.amazon.com/Highfine-Wireless-Extension-Bulkhead-Repeater/dp/B01GMBUS8O/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=wifi+antenna&qid=1559264416&s=gateway&sr=8-4

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(you don't need the wire bits, just the antennas, but they all seem to come bundled)

I have this gigabyte mobo and it came with one of those magnetic antenna for the wifi card. Unfortunately the Ncase is not magnetic because aluminium. I don't know anything about the right kind of antenna to replace it. But i wanted the kind that screws directly into the connectors in the back. Would this work? https://www.amazon.com/Highfine-Wireless-Extension-Bulkhead-Repeater/dp/B01GMBUS8O/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1499105383&sr=1-3&keywords=wifi+antenna

https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GC-WB867D-I-Bluetooth-Frequency-Expansion/dp/B00HF8K0O6

https://www.amazon.com/Highfine-Wireless-Extension-Bulkhead-Repeater/dp/B01GMBUS8O/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1522359327&sr=8-3&keywords=5ghz+antenna

Will those antenna work with that wifi card? I am not a big fan of the movable wired antenna, and I'd likely test the connection of both, see whichever is better. Just want to know if the antenna will work with the card.

Thanks.

You do NOT need to buy an additional addapter to get wifi internet, the Motherboard has the network interface controler (NIC) integrated into the motherboard. On the motherboard IO there are two external threaded connectors for external antenna.

It is weird because typically the motherboard includes an antenna or two that you can screw into this but i cannot find any images or mention of an antenna on the "features" list.

If it really does not come with an antenna then they are easy to purchase on amazon and the connectors are standard so whatever you buy should work.

edit: Links

• Picture of the motherboard's IO: https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71-W1zjr2AL._SL1500_.jpg
  
  
• picture of other motherboard enabled motherboards with their antennas: https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/81mJPAZWaWL._SL1500_.jpg
  
  
• other antenna options if the MB doesn't include antenna:
  
  https://www.amazon.com/Eightwood-Antenna-Connector-Magnetic-Wireless/dp/B07JVDNDCR/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=wifi+antenna&qid=1572341872&s=electronics&sr=1-5
  
  https://www.amazon.com/Highfine-Wireless-Extension-Bulkhead-Repeater/dp/B01GMBUS8O/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=wifi+antenna&qid=1572341872&s=electronics&sr=1-8
  
  
  Edit2: It appears from another site to show an Aorus style antenna....again this doesn't guarentee that it is included but it highly suggests it. https://www.novatech.co.uk/products/gigabyte-x570-i-aorus-pro-wifi-amd-am4-x570-chipset-mini-itx-motherboard/x570iaorusprowifi.html

Smh im a dumbass

Card- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07SH6GV5S?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Cables- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01GMBUS8O?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

So you're sure that it doesn't exist? In that case, thanks for telling me that. As for the wifi thing, would the things I linked in the post (this and this) work for my purposes? It appears that my motherboard has a dedicated "Mini-PCIE slot for wifi card" near the IO that would necessitate something like this solution (a card like the one I linked with leads to the back, where there are holes for the antennas) if I wanted antennas on the back, which I would. I've got a cheap USB one and I don't like it. Thank you for your help.

DIY`ed my own this winter, have not really given it a full test yet. At home seems to work.

I used a Netgear Extender, the ac750: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R92CL5E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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Took it apart, pretty easy, replaced the antenna connector with these pig tails: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GMBUS8O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Used these cables to extend the antennas to my fridge vent, where they are mounted to the big plastic frigde vent cover.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0085X3PRE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Should work, but like i said, only tested at home.

Yeah its a great little machine! I got mine on ebay as well. For your info here is the antenna I used. It fit good enough after popping out the cover on the hole. However, I don't have a Broadcom Wifi chip so I can only use it for Windows boot.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GMBUS8O/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

$55 for 2 dBi omnidirectional gain? Hard pass.

I also wouldn't trust putting so much weight on them.

I'm using these right now: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WD7FZV4/

Using these on my b450i strix and reach 130Mbps down. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WD7FZV4/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This extension has worked great for me.

TRENDnet Low Loss RP-SMA Male to RP-SMA Female Antenna Cable, 2 m (6.5 ft.), 1.45 dB Max Signal Loss, TEW-L102 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071Y7FXWW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Ybn0BbVPMFFWX

Sounds like the same, tended to fail around 1 or 2 hours.
TRENDnet Low Loss RP-SMA Male to... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071Y7FXWW

I've been using this 1m since late Oct. No issues.
Uxcell a15113000ux2549 Male to... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AUQF8VY

Yea that’s a lie. I think you could do it. I have this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071Y7FXWW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_kkkTDbNW4A0MF extending the receiver and it works fine

It was the 2m TRENDnet cable linked above, verified working for others.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071Y7FXWW/

What's most odd for me is the 4116 error code. I understand the tech is still pretty new but I cannot find any references to that error code anywhere. 4128 sure, seen that one reported by several people, but 4116 is new and I cannot decipher what it means..

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071Y7FXWW

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071Y7FXWW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used this to extend my setup. Several others here in reddit have used this as well from what I seen. Worked perfectly for me.

Ive decided to just buy a new one but will this be compatible with my motherboard? https://www.amazon.com/Eightwood-Antenna-Connector-Magnetic-Wireless/dp/B07JVDNDCR/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?keywords=5+ghz+wifi+attena&qid=1565735245&s=gateway&sr=8-9-spell

That motherboard has Wifi 6 and it has antenna connectors on the back of the motherboard EDIT: And it comes with an external antenna already!!!So what you want to do is get a good dual WiFi antenna to connect to the mobo like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Eightwood-Antenna-Connector-Magnetic-Wireless/dp/B07JVDNDCR/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=wifi+antenna&qid=1568229763&s=gateway&sr=8-3

That will give you a really strong, high speed signal to your router.

Oh and you could try an aftermarket antenna with a longer wire that you can put in a better spot, this one might be the right connectors? https://www.amazon.com/Eightwood-Antenna-Connector-Magnetic-Wireless/dp/B07JVDNDCR/

Well, if I were in your shoes, the first thing I'd try is moving the (likely detachable) antenna away from the back of the PC, as the metal that makes up the PC's case could be a problem. There are a ton of third party antenna (like this one) that can be purchased even more cheaply than the powerline adapters, and could improve your situation. Also make sure you have the latest firmware/drivers installed, as connection stability might have been improved in a newer driver.

If that didn't help, I'd connect a decent AP (something like the TP-Link EAP-225/245 or pretty much anything from Ubiquiti) to your router, then disable its built in WiFi (as lower-end routers, which quite frequently describes modem/router combo boxes, often have bottom-of-the-barrel WiFi radios in them). Just make sure to buy the AP from a retailer with a good return policy if it turned out not to help. A good quality AP will cost a bit more than the powerline adapters, but so long as there isn't another environmental reason why WiFi isn't stable in your home, will provide a far superior experience to powerline adapters.

If you have coax TV cable run throughout your home, and the WiFi situation around you is such that the available frequencies are just too crowded, MoCA adapters would a much better choice compared to powerline adapters. MoCA 2.x adapters can reach nearly gigabit speeds, and since the data doesn't go over power lines, doesn't have to deal with all the 'garbage' that powerline adapters do. Unfortunately, not every home is wired with coax (mine isn't, and it was built in '62!), but thankfully it was nearly painless for me to run the few ethernet lines I needed. :)

Thanks for this. I had a similar challenge with range with a BCM94360CD on the same card a while back, and ended up having to turn off 2.4 GHz WiFi, changing the channel on the house 2.4 GHz WiFi, and getting some goofy antenna setup stuck to the front of my desk. That solved the immediate problem but it's good to know it could be even better. Do you have to run any different kexts / settings to run this card?

On edit: the reason I'd want to upgrade the card, even though everything pretty well works, is because AirDrop works but doesn't work WELL all the time.

It could be really slow, in both throughput and latency. And you may be breaking your providers TOS by using FoxFi. So if 4G is your only source of Internet connectivity, it might be a bad idea to risk loosing it.

Consider finding someone that you can connect to via wireless on 2.4 GHz that does have access to a high speed Internet connection. (reviews for this claim a distance of over 5 miles sometimes)

No, you need "nano" SDRs.

The case you've ordered is the same one that was on display at the Maker Faire by /u/LithuanianAmerican.


Here's a nano SDR kit. You can get them overnight also (Prime). There are no pictures yet since I haven't gotten around to taking pics.

http://amzn.com/B01ENU1DQC

They're pre-programmed to match up with the antennas. With the enclosure, you'll also want some antennas:

http://amzn.com/B01EJUM83S

You can achieve the same thing using air fiber by ubiquity.



Ubiquiti 5GHz LiteBeam AC 23DBI (LBE-5AC-23-US) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ANIQCE6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_grALBb62CH1SA


Ubiquiti 5GHz LiteBeam AC 23DBI (LBE-5AC-23-US) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ANIQCE6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_grALBb62CH1SA


Ubiquiti Networks Antenna AF-5G23-S45 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013QOI0JY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wsALBbFYVF53N