Best o-rings according to redditors

We found 255 Reddit comments discussing the best o-rings. We ranked the 76 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top Reddit comments about O-Rings:

u/Acknown3 · 19 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Actually, you're absurdly wrong. About 1000% wrong (with prime).

u/The-Confused · 10 pointsr/buildapcsales

I got this keyboard for $50 after rebate, I really enjoy it (my first mechanical). Whenever I go to my college library, I always contemplate bringing the keyboard in to type on the computers because their rubber domed keys feel like I'm trying to type on a keyboard made of Play-Doh. Unresponsive, slow, and generally unpleasant to use.



A word of advice for someone who is thinking about getting a mechanical keyboard, even if the switches don't make much sound, the keys bottoming out / rebounding tend to be quite loud. This is why I invested in some rubber o-rings which limited the sound the keyboard makes when bottoming out. The ones from amazon are similar to the ones that WASDkeyboards sells for $18 (I assume its comparable to the 50A-R). They do influence the feel of the keyboard, but I think the noise reduction is worth it.



Overall, if you've been looking for a good keyboard to get for a new gaming computer, or if you're planning on upgrading to a mechanical keyboard, I would definitely suggest this (even though it is $10 more than what I paid for it).

Edit: If you are new to mechanical keyboards, keep in mind that they are generally taller than dome keyboards (base is roughly 3/4 inch tall). Also, this keyboard isn't fully back-lit if you were looking for a keyboard which is, I advise you look elsewhere.

u/bcphotog · 8 pointsr/guns

> Any other tips you can give to a new Osprey owner?

Tip #1

Get this wire pulling gel, it's a large bottle, so i break it down into some small-medium squeezable condiment bottles, and i just take 1 with me to the range in my range bag. Just make sure to get some with screw-on caps, you don't want to have one leak in a range bag haha.

Tip 2:

Eventually you'll need to replace the o-ring inside the Indexing Ring/Spring Retainer (for the booster), don't get the Booster O-Ring Pack (2 pieces) from SiCo for $9. Get a bag of 100 from Amazon Prime for $12.29, bag of 50 is $13.57, so just get the 100 pack.

Specs for the booster o-ring are: 018 Viton O-Ring, 75A Durometer, Black, 3/4" ID, 7/8" OD, 1/16" Width (Pack of 100). The size is the bolded number, size 018. You'll see in the reviews with other suppressors owners buying the same thing and saying they'll fit Octanes, Osprey's, and Omega 9K's booster o-ring.

Tip #3

Get a case of Speer Lawman 147gr 9mm from SGAmmo. Awesome sub ammo.

Tip #4

I don't know if you have something similar already, but i use a GoRuck Echo Field Pocket to hold suppressor parts/tools.

Edit: words, links.

u/arontx · 7 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Story time... I've had this Filco with blues for awhile and never done anything to it. A few months ago I picked up a CODE with clears and my poor Filco sat abandoned and unloved. Recently, Massdrop did a group buy for Ducky PBT caps and I decided it was time to breathe some new life back into my Filco. I wanted to bring it back to work so I also took the opportunity to install some o-ring dampeners (Amazon, non-referral).

I love the keycaps, they feel great -- I'm a big fan of the texture. The o-rings make a big difference for me because I always bottom out. The one's I ordered from Amazon are a hybrid of the two offered by WASD because I wanted a harder ring with less travel reduction. If you're wishing your blues were a little quieter these are great o-rings.

u/Furority · 6 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Alternatively, you can get a pack of 125 for $8.25 on Amazon.

u/ilessthanthreemath · 6 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I have o-rings on my Poker II with blues. I'd estimate that the sound has been cut by 50%. The "thunk" noise when you bottom out is greatly decreased but the "click" sound from the switch itself is audible.

I use these from Amazon since they're half the price of what WASD charges.

If you want a real carrying case, there was a group buy over on GeekHack for a 60% soft case. The organizer of the group buy owns TechKeys.us (where I got my Poker II) and said that he should have a few spare cases after the group buy is over.

u/ithrow6s · 5 pointsr/fountainpens

If you plan on converting more than 3 pens, it's more economical to buy your own stuff.

100 o-rings, $2: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FN0V6A?redirect=true&ref_=ya_st_dp_summary

Silicone grease, 1/2 oz, $3.49: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000DZFUNY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_2&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

For reference, Goulet pens sells 4 o-rings for $1 and 1/8 oz silicone grease for $2.95 http://www.gouletpens.com/goulet-silicone-grease/p/GPC-SiliconeGrease?pageNumber=7

u/mike_the_pirate · 5 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Get the O-rings from Amazon http://amzn.com/B0051XWXCE

Much cheaper then WASD.

u/badenglishihave · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Get these, $2.08 for a pack of 100. They work great on my wife's DS4:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FMWLR8

u/SternLecture · 4 pointsr/Miata

could be a bit low on oil. you can isloate the sound by using a stethescope it doesnt always work brilliant but it will at least tell you in the general area to elliminate a crank or rod bearing but i think a crank or rod knock would be much much louder.

Also replace the CAS o ring. http://rallyways.com/specialty/cas-o-ring-miata-oil-leak/
I bought these but if you are willing to drive around places to find a viton 222 o ring you might save a bit of money. I had some other gaskets and junk I was waiting on so figured might as well order at the same time.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FN0YG2/ref=biss_dp_t_asn
if you dont get viton make sure you get buna n or some other rubber which is oil resistant and withstand the heat of the motor.

u/perkited · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

$8.25 at Amazon.

u/deaconblue42 · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I've used JSpacers in some retooled Cherry Blues since Nov. 2017 having just pulled them out to try Clears and True springs in the retooled housings (awesome if you like Jailhouse BTW if a little heavy). I had no change in feel or obvious degradation in that time. At first with a very hard press (WASD mostly) they would get pinched and start to drag or click but that stopped happening.

I also have been using 002 buna nitrile o-rings in Gateron stems since March 2017 and after a few broke and were replaced I've had no issues.

u/DasGnome · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

You can also use these o-rings by putting them on each leg instead of the stem. Feels pretty much the same.

u/coffeeslick · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

For $2, I used these on my browns. Probably took about 20 minutes to put them on. Definitely takes the edge off the noises from bottoming out.

u/EMCoupling · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

Some that I ordered off Amazon.

There are many more too. No way you should ever have to pay $25 for fucking o-rings.

u/dyril · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

MX reds, blues, browns use the same spring. The reds should feel slightly lighter because of no literal tactile bump on the stems.

Oh, the o-rings I've tried are the cheap 70 durometer ones off amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FMWLR8/
I believe using softer ones would make the reds feel even mushier.

TBH I prefer browns so much that I
haven't given the o-ring'd reds a proper try. I might try them later with 55g springs from originative.

u/CaptainAmerricka · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

Maybe get yourself some o-rings in the mean time. I put these on not to long after I got a blue switch keyboard. You might notice the reduced key travel at first, but you forget soon. I used these cause cheap: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FMWLR8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/uraveragerestorer · 3 pointsr/foreskin_restoration

Most commonly in plumbing & faucets. Try searching for or asking for "silicone faucet o rings". Look into getting several sizes like 16mm, 19mm, and 22mm rings.

​

www.amazon.com/016-Silicone-Ring-Durometer-Width/dp/B000FMWOAW/ I found these on amazon through a Saudi VPn so they should be available to you.

u/allensoko · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

106 Buna-N O-Ring, 70A Durometer, Black, 3/16" ID, 3/8" OD, 3/32" Width (Pack of 100) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FMYR48/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_1jW7wbE84R639

These were the ones recommended from the wiki

u/xzer · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

if you live in the U.S you can get them for $8
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0051XWXCE/

Otherwise I would guess they range around $20. ^^^^iwishiwasintheus

u/Derangedcorgi · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Without changing the feeling of the key stroke? You would probably need something with a low shore rating. Maybe somewhere in the 20A range. I suggest that you just use something with a relatively higher rating and is readily available like this one I listed below, you'll get used to it pretty quickly. You can also find some in the 40A range but they tend to be more expensive for some reason.

http://www.amazon.com/008-Buna-N-O-Ring-Durometer-Round/dp/B0051XWXCE/ref=pd_sim_pc_5?t=slickdeals&tag=slickdeals&ascsubtag=BTRsovXOEeK0Lc5lAEKLqQje75_6CQe3_0_0_0

u/[deleted] · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

It's because of how soft they are. The reds specifically are extremely spongy. I would recommend getting WASD's Sample and testing them out. I tried them and they were way to soft. I ended up getting these ones from Amazon. They are much more dense, so they don't mask sounds as well, but they are hard enough to not have any mushy feeling if you bottom out.

u/iRideBMX · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Here is the link

u/Grazfather · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I have these because I think paying $20 for orings is retarded. Typing is fine, maybe just less enjoyable, but still a lot nicer than my old keyboards. It really prevented the ping I used to get from bottoming out, but I feel they are a lot less useful now that I type properly and don't slam the keys.

u/rambunctious · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I use these http://amazon.com/gp/product/B0051XWXCE though I know that you can get the nice coloured ones from WASD.

u/nibblebot · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I put these on my QFR blues. Now, they don't bottom out and just do the clicky sound. Much more consistent sounding since every keypress sounds the same.
I assume you'll get similar results with the wasd ones. I also bought the sampler pack from wasd but couldn't decide on which ones I wanted, so I ended up with the amazon ones.

u/oh_hai_dan · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I got a set of 125 from Amazon for less than $9 shipped: 50A Durometer, Round, Black, 3/16" ID, 5/16" OD, 1/16" Width. Had no trouble with it on my KBT Pure.

Linky

u/streakybacon · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

These are from Amazon but as long as they are the correct size any o-ring will work (your preference on hardness may vary); dental bands also work.

Here's an infographic for Cherry MX caps:O-Ring Informational.

u/Captain_McShootyFace · 3 pointsr/paintball

You'll find them in here

u/atatsu · 3 pointsr/foreskin_restoration

O-rings: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G7W33H2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For a keeper I used the end of a Dr. Brown's baby bottle nipple and filled it with hot glue so it would hold its shape. Saw a post the other day by someone who had fashioned their own keeper but used micropore tape on it.

Took the hot glue mold out of the nipple and wrapped it in tape and it holds *much* better. With the silicone nipple I could have my rings on all day and be fine. But with the tape it holds so firmly that I have to remove my rings midway through the day as the tension (after pulling the inner skin out as much as possible around the keeper) is so high that it gets uncomfortable.

u/Gilianz · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards
u/Route66_LANparty · 2 pointsr/buildmeapc

> I also don't have any thermal paste yet

  • The Phanteks CPU cooler will come with some that should be more than good enough. If you want separate I recently switched to the Arctic MX-4 non-conductive from my ol' reliable Arctic Silver 5.
  • http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835186038

    > Oh, it also looks like I need a keyboard! Any suggestions

  • If you want a high end keyboard that will last ages, you'll want a mechanical keyboard. You'll spend $80-$150 on a nice keyboard though. Some generic/re-branded mechanical keyboards can be found for about $60.

  • Mechanical keyboards come a few different flavors. Different switch types have different feels to them.

  • Blues are great for heavy typing and MMOs. They have a click you can both feel and hear.
  • Red (and Black) are smooth with no click or tactile feedback. Preferred by competitive gamers.
  • Browns are a nice blend of the two. You get a slight tactile bump to signal switch activation without the audible click. They are well rounded to both typing and gaming.

  • For someone new to mechanical keyboards I'd suggest Reds or Blues. They will have the most noticeable improvement in feel to the cheapo keyboards.

  • There's currently a solid little deal on these Red Switch, Red LED Backlight keyboards to match your color theme:

  • http://www.outletpc.com/rm3622-cm-storm-quickfire-tk-red-mechanical-keyboard.html

  • http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HGIBY04/


  • Personally, I'm using a blue switch keyboard, modified with oring sound dampeners. Gives me great typing for reddit and emails, with a shorter switch throw that works well for me with gaming. It doesn't have fancy backlighting, but gets the job done. I've used Reds, Blacks, Browns, and Blues. While I prefer Reds and Blacks slightly for FPS gaming. I do so much typing I adore the clicky Blues.

  • http://pcpartpicker.com/part/cooler-master-keyboard-sgk4000gkcl1us
  • http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FMWLR8

  • If you want to browse some more... Newegg is having a nice Mechanical keyboard sale:

  • http://www.newegg.com/Peripherals/EventSaleStore/ID-46?srchInDesc=mechanical%20keyboard


    Edit: For some more exotic mechanical keyboards keep an eye on MassDrop.com - Often have cool ones like this: https://www.massdrop.com/buy/leopold-fc660m
u/Drizu · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales
u/Prizeless · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Hey yeah they slightly reduce the travel distance and they keep them from bottoming out.

I used these o-rings: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FMWLR8/

u/Asmotron · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

No problem!

If you want to give it a shot for relatively cheap you can try out the ones I picked up

u/OMGIMASIAN · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

I have a blues keyboard. I ended up getting these o-rings to place underneath the keys which ended up cutting the sound of the audio in like half. The loudest part of blues is when you bottom out and the key hits the bottom of the keyboard. O-rings pretty much dampen that, which makes it much quieter. You can also put O-rings on browns etc.

u/awhiled · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Some are reporting that these o-rings (15 x 1 x 17mm) fit the kayfun body:

http://www.fasttech.com/p/1208503

I bought the 008 Buna-N Orings for my Russian 91% chimney top, it seems to work ok...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FMWLR8/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/bakageta · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Going to second giving o-rings a shot, I've got mx browns and some 70A o-rings from Amazon and they definitely quiet it down a lot. They were all of $2, so it's a pretty cheap thing to try. I actually like the stiffer o-rings compared to 50A, I find the softer o-rings leave the keys feeling a bit mushy when bottoming out while gaming.

u/watsaname · 2 pointsr/keyboards

If you want to try out some "cheap" o-rings check out this. They are a harder then the stuff that you can snag from WASD, but I actually prefer them over the ones from the Sampler Kit my brother got from them.

u/scubar · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards
  • WASD CODE TKL
  • Originative Carbon Black PBT Keycaps
  • 70A Durometer o-rings
  • Cherry MX Clear

    O-Rings
u/clonex10100 · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

If you type forcefully then most of the noise is from the former, You can get o-rings for your blackwidow, without needing a new keyboard! If you aren't set on getting a new keyboard try it first, razer even sells a (Overpriced) o ring kit. Or you could get this If you get the secound you will also need a keycap puller, which the razer kit includes. It will still be cheaper, esp if you have amazon prime.


The only reason you would need a new keyboard is if the click it makes before it hits the bottom is too loud, or you want something nicer then a razer.

u/LindtChocolate · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

you can get o-rings for like $2 man they're just rubber.
For example, I use these on my Ducky Gold http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FMWLR8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/greath · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

The problem seems to be that the ones that really reduce travel distance also seem to be the mushiest. Seems like most people who are installing o-rings are doing it for sound not how far your keys depress :(

I've only found one real "review" on o-rings in general and the guy was using blues not reds so not sure how much it will tell me. At $20 a pop for a set it's kind of a sucky "guess and check" situation I feel like.

--------------------

Edit: I think I found my answer: 70A... the number is a measure of hardness not size! Now I just have to find the right thickness in them...

Edit 2: Found them! 70A O-rings on amazon. Code 008 for the 1/16" and code 106 for the 3/32". At $2 a pop I can actually guess and check with these.

I don't know why my google-foo was sucking so much last night. I must have been tired.

u/Reygle · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Most of these folks are right- blues are pretty noisy even with O-rings, but I will say that O-rings WILL quiet it down a bit. The bottoming out sound of the keycap is quite a bit louder than the actual switch actuating. A user here referred me to some cheap o-rings here that I quite like and would recommend, but it looks like they're not available at the moment. :/

u/PopNLochNessMonsta · 2 pointsr/Homebrewing

Found these in my amazon purchase history, they fit my gas and liquid posts (pin lock, but I think ball lock is the same).

I think these work for the lids, but I don't think these are the exact ones I bought.

u/Flubberducky5 · 2 pointsr/GasBlowBack
u/Ruschnav · 2 pointsr/airsoft

Sounds like a missing fill valve o-ring.

Get these

u/gwhunter280 · 2 pointsr/NFA

It says viton and buna n in the title, so which one is it? They aren't the same thing. Here are the ones I got.

u/cawpin · 2 pointsr/NFA
u/yeticabra · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

>Do you have the Amazon link to the o-rings you used?

Amazon link.


>How would you compare the JH blues to Zealios/MX Clears?

Hmmm it's a bit different, travel distance is cut down a tad, and the bump is up top/immediate.

u/maddenman2000 · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Those o-rings would work. There are different o-rings, I personally have little experience using them. /u/lpwl made a comment in a post a while ago:


>- A thicker O-ring will reduce key travel more than a thinner one.

  • A softer O-ring will make a switch quiet more effectively than a harder one.
  • The more material the O-ring has, the more it can dampen shocks and noise.

    >In other words :

    >- If you want to quiet down the keyboard and soften the landing, get soft o-rings, ie in 40A or 50A durometer.
  • If you want to quiet down the keyboard but keep a hard landing, get hard ones (70 - 90A durometer)... however their noise dampening won't be as good as the soft ones.

    Here's a good post on his website that goes more into depth about o-rings. And here's a post on Geekhack.

    If you want to skip reading all that then from what I've read the 40A-L Red O-Rings ($15) from WASD Keyboards is the most popular choice and Buna-N O-Ring 50A ($7). If you don't mind waiting a long time you can get o-rings on Ebay for $1.08, the measurements of this is very close to the red o-rings from WASD.
u/Eliryum · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

Also my first mech (haven't arrived yet though). I heard people like blues for typing and RTS (I plan to play SC2 on it) but perhaps not for FPS as the clicking might get annoying. The bottoming out probably produces the most noise though, so o-rings are good for that. The nice clicking will remain even with the o-rings. I just got these which are about 1/2 price of "keyboard-specific" o-rings.

u/Topre · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

WASD Keyboards the blue ones will dampen sound the most.

Max Keyboard

Amazon. Both WASD Keyboards and Max Keyboard also has O-rings on Amazon. Free shipping on Max Keyboard's O-rings and Amazon Prime on WASD Keyboards' red O-rings (blues are out of stock).

I honestly wouldn't bother with eBay unless if you want the buyer protection.

u/TeeheeS · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I believe these are ones most people buy. Note that o-rings will make the bottoming out a bit more like rubber domes, kind of squishy, but you will have less key travel distance, and it will be easier to actuate the switch a second time (i.e. you don't have to lift your fingers as high to get the switch to register again).

u/Stevo32792 · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Get these. It doesn't completely silence the keyboard, but it keeps the keys from bottoming out and making the louder 'clank' noise. It also reduces travel distance of the keys, making it slightly easier to type.

u/Choco617 · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Looking for a full-size with MX Browns for general use plus gaming (USA), and the following are all pluses: Mac layout, white LED, detachable cord, simple aesthetics, and "floating keys" like Varmilo (definitely not all hard requirements except full size and Browns).

Current plan is WASD Code (has everything except floating keys, for 150 on Amazon or less if I can wait for MassDrop) with these O-rings (look equivalent to regular red ones), plus Vortex doubleshot PBT+POM backlit white keycaps thick OEM height ones that apparently look great on specifically the Code (plus they match my white Corsair 600T hackintosh case).

Any ideas? Decent cheaper alternatives I hadn't considered? Concerns I should be aware of with this setup? This Ducky One looks like a decent cheaper board at 120 with Browns and white LED, but the availability is listed only as preorder, which sounds to me like “unavailable for who knows how long”.

Apologies for my noobiness, and happy holidays!

u/fizgigtiznalkie · 2 pointsr/Homebrewing

I bought 8 kegs once years back and 2 were missing parts, it was quite the research project to get them up to snuff. 2 liquid posts, poppets, 2 lids, gas dip tube. I replaced all gaskets. I had to replace half a dozen poppets and 3 pressure release valves. All up is was another $100 or so.

Make sure you note the make/model when you buy your posts, the lids are pretty much all the same unless they're racetrack (yours are not), universal poppets from rightbrew work great. Lids, relief valves and posts I found on Adventures in Homebrewing, the posts will depend on gas or liquid (they are different!) and your keg model.

You can get bulk o-rings on amazon for dirt cheap instead of paying a few dollars per keg and swap them out often. Posts, diptubes, and lids have these 3 sizes.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FMYR9S/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051XYDYU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FMYRBG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Get yourself some spark plug/deep sockets, you need a 7/8 and an 11/16 most likely, get the star shaped ones, you will need them on some of yours (usually the gas post, gas post has notches in the base). Fiddling with a crescent wrench is a nightmare.

u/trnelson · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Buna O-Ring, 50A Durometer, Round, Black by Small Parts http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0052AU0HQ/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_TIjxtb0EZTBM2
Model 008 (3/16 ID - Inner Diameter)
$8.25 currently
Just put these on my Brown switches and really like them. Hopefully that helps!

u/ericbojo · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Either get them from amazon or WASD. WASD has options for softer o-rings which are quieter. The ones from amazon are hard, but give a crisp feel IMO ( i have the amazon ones). here: the dash-size is 008

http://www.amazon.com/008-Buna-N-O-Ring-Durometer-Round/dp/B0052AU0HQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1368113366&sr=1-1&keywords=o-ring+mechanical+keyboard

or WASD:

http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/cherry-mx-rubber-switch-dampeners.html

u/TwoWheeledTraveler · 2 pointsr/NFA

If you don't take out the booster assembly on a regular basis, a drop or two of rocksett on those threads will keep it from backing out on you. Also, when you tighten the can on to the host, be aware that on a LH threaded barrel like your SIG, you want to make sure you "snap" the can tight and then leave it, because if you sit there and bear down on the thing to tighten it more you're then applying torque that will loosen the threads between the booster assembly and the tube.

Since you're using a SIG factory barrel, the piston will index on the muzzle face, and not on the thread shoulder. You can run a small viton O-ring at the rear of the threads which will hold the can in place and keep it from un-threading. The thread spec on those barrels is designed for this purpose. IIRC an M1x12 will fit properly, like these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005RUP2Q0/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/Flatric · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

I just bought some O rings (https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B008ASXS76/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and put them under and over the FC(http://i.imgur.com/80icq5W.jpg) If you got not enough space it might be enough to put them just under it

u/punkonjunk · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I use these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015O31JFM

Because they are cheap and have a great hardness, producing a very tactile switch. I slide them over the "arms" on either side of the MX stem on the bottom, then slide the click jacket back on, which now halts at the base of the two "arms"

I tried one pad with J-spacers, which are cool, but they feel less consistent to me. these come out super consistent and they have a very clean, sharp tactile bump, very low noise (depending on plate, etc) and in general are what I like the most out of everything I have tried.

u/justmanner · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

http://www.amazon.com/008-Buna-N-O-Ring-Durometer-Black/dp/B000FMWLR8/ref=pd_sim_sbs_indust_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1QT0BXXR3WW3FT9HNMF9

^^ Cheap o-rings. O-rings are essentially all the same (quality-wise, they're just little rubber rings lol). But like puppies said, there are varying sizes/thicknesses that you can choose. The above link is for 70A, browse the related products, as the thicknesses can range from like 50A upwards, look for what you like.

u/ovrdrv3 · 1 pointr/ProgrammerHumor

Corsair K70 RGB (MX Reds) here,

Totally agree with this guy, the O rings make a nice difference, there is less travel but you get used to it. I was surprised to find that there wasn't a difference in the light output when the O-Rings go on. Just search amazon for "keyboard o rings". I ended up buying these.

u/MandrewDavis · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I tried a sample of the o-rings from WASD and found the 40a rubber was too soft for my liking. If I bottomed out, they felt mushy. Check these out, slightly harder and only $2, compared to $15.

u/Mr_F4ll0ut · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

You can get those same WASD ones direct from Amazon in either Red .2mm or Blue .4mm which at least saves you on shipping if you have Prime.

You can also get more generic, plain o-rings on Amazon in slightly different hardness. Both of these should work just as well for a considerably lower price. I found them via mech related links from Massdrop and here, but have tried neither myself.

u/TheWheeledOne · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I used these:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FMWLR8/ref=pe_385040_121528360_TE_dp_p4

Nice and cheap, did the job just as well as the .4mm ones from Max Keyboard I'd previously tried. There might be a minor difference in travel limitations for the key -- but we're talking a tenth of a mm at most, and if you aren't bottoming out every key press you won't even notice that. The difference being that these are ever so slightly smaller than the .4mm's.

u/leonardodag · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

You can get harder o-rings (eg. 70A ones) for a harder bottom out while keeping the noise reduction. They sell these on Amazon for 2 dollars (only ships to the US, though): http://www.amazon.com/008-Buna-N-O-Ring-Durometer-Black/dp/B000FMWLR8

u/exaltare · 1 pointr/buildapc

O-Rings. 1, 2.

u/mookerific · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I use these from Amazon. 2$, higher durometer rating to avoid the mushiness, and not price-gouging like WASD's stuff.

u/RocketmanZero · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I had no idea O-rings were basically just industry specific rubber rings you don't have to buy at $18 from a keyboard shop.(makes sense when you think about it)
Mind blown, bought 200 of these for $4.
Thanks!

u/zaqwedc · 1 pointr/mechmarket

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FMWLR8/
I got these for my keyboard, they fit great!

u/shadowdude777 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Yeah, I use a keyboard with MX Browns at work and installed o-rings under the switches and it's pretty quiet. I bottom out when I type and even then, I'm pretty sure nobody around me is bothered by it.

For anyone wondering, these are the exact o-rings I bought. Under $2 and shipped with Prime, and they fit perfectly.

It's a 100-pack so I think you might have to buy 2 if you want to cover every key on a full-size keyboard (I used one set of 100 on 2 keyboards, just covering the letter+number+modifier+spacebar/return/backspace keys). But still, buying 2 sets of these is under $4.

u/acer589 · 1 pointr/mechmarket

I ordered like.... a hundred for 11 bucks off amazon.

EDIT: Sorry, correction, it's like a dollar fifty for a hundred

Link

u/meganekko_panda · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace
u/Strottinglemon · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I use mine (Gateron Reds) as a travel board. These should arrive today so people don't get annoyed by the clack. My logic is that it's worth trying out for $2.

u/LeChat42 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Switches: If you're leaning towards Cherry MX switches but are still unsure of which ones you prefer, you can get a switch tester that includes red, black, brown, clear, blue, and green switches, as well as O-rings.

No matter which of switch you choose, it will still produce some noise, due to the key caps bottoming out. If you prefer a long-term keyboard with switches that produce tactile feedback, such as browns, blues, greens, etc., but are worried about the noise, you can get O-rings like these.

Which switch? I also code for lengthy periods of time and would prefer typing with something that produces tactile feedback, like either browns or blues. But since you have roommates, maybe browns would be better... unless they don't mind the click-clack noise, then get the blues since they're more satisfactory to type with. Heavy typer? Maybe you'll prefer greens since they require more force.

Keyboards: Of the keyboards you've narrowed down to, the Das or K70 are good. There're also the non-RGB K70s with single color LEDs that are cheaper than the ones with RGBs and come in red and brown switches.

I've owned the K70s with red LEDs and red switches and currently own the Ducky Minis with green switches. The LEDs on my K70 lasted throughout the time I've used it (< 2 years), but a friend's K70 had some that stopped working several months after use :/ I eventually sold the K70 and prefer green switches and a 60% mechKB since it's more portable.

u/josyd · 1 pointr/hardwareswap

Hurr Go

I can't tell a difference between these and the 60A that cost $20/100.

u/assofthefist · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

While the Cherry MX Dampeners are probably pretty nice, I couldn't justify throwing an extra $20 on my keyboard so I used these instead:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FMWLR8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They fit the stems very well and offer a good amount of dampening without making the keys feel mushy (at least to me). I like it so much that I even put them on my brown-switch k70.

Be aware: your blue switches will still be very clicky, you just won't get the "clack" when you bottom out and the bottoming out distance will be shallower (a plus for me, but that's personal).

u/12ebral · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I use these and they're pretty cheap.

Though they're on the stiffer side, they worked well on every switch I've used them on: clears, greens, blues, and reds.

EDIT: Accidentally switched the link and link title. hurrdurr

u/Iceman1925 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards
u/Nupcake · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Cheap o-rings in Europe / Germany?

All prices I found through google are around 14-17 € or need some kind of mass buy.

I wouldn't mind the price but I don't even know if I even like them or the exact size I want.

I know of the cheap US ones but I can't really order from US Amazon and may have to pay shipping and Zoll anyway

I have a qpad mk 80 with reds by the way.

u/SilentChiller · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

It's a good board, nothing fancy but it works well, I don't really like flashy, showy things anyways.

Both of mine have MX Clear switches and the original has o-rings and PBT blacked out caps.

u/spyder256 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I'm curious as well. I recently got these for my Nighthawk X7 : http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FMWLR8/

Only lasted a few hours before I was like "fuck this" and took them out.

u/mnml_inclination · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

There are some available on Amazon for very cheap. From what I've read they're slightly stiffer than their WASD cousins. I'm unfamiliar with Amazon's shipping policies, but I imagine their logistics infrastructure is faster than someone like WASD.

Also, the color of the o-ring won't have any effect on backlighting. The two colors that are primarily available (red and blue from WASD) are of differing thicknesses.

u/_Draven_ · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I'd say it's such a minute difference between them, I opted to buy some small rubber rings instead of branded "o-rings". You can check them out here! They work fine for me!

u/miyari · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I just put o-rings on my alphanumerics on MX Clears and I'm enjoying it. It does actually make what I already feel is a quiet keyboard quieter, which was some of my goal. I also feel like it somehow made my typing a little more accurate, but that's likely just in my head. It definitely changed the way the keys feel a little bit, they have a bit of a "tighter" feel for lack of a better word (I'm sure there's someone more fluent in keyboard that can better attest to o-rings on Clears). Personally, I like the change a lot as I almost feel like it makes the keys heavier and the presses more defined. I might change my mind and go without; I've only been using them for 2 days so far.

For anyone considering, honestly, pick some up for $2 with Prime shipping and just try it out for a bit. Worst case scenario you're out of $2 and then you have a vehement negative opinion that you can later share in threads like this, woo!

u/freakingwilly · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

These rings severely reduce the clack from bottoming out and they are quite a bit denser than most other rings, so they are not squishy. Highly recommended. Don't buy into the clear rings, they don't affect the backlight to justify the cost.

Source: Own three mechanical keyboards and I like them so much, I put rings on all of them.

u/Dungeon_Of_Dank_Meme · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Two quick questions, both since parts of the wiki seem messed up or old.

- [Is this still the best deal on O rings?](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FMWLR8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) I took my shitty old ones off my pok3r and I hate how it feels now.

- Is there anywhere to cop a Leopold FC750R in that snow white style with cmx reds where you won't pay up the ass for it? I need to tell people I want something that isn't $400 for christmas, lol.

u/CBNathanael · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I went brown to not completely drive my family crazy. Unfortunately, I've been toting it between home and work, and now I want to buy another for the office. THAT one will have blues :D

If you're looking to add o-rings, someone tipped me off to these $2 beauties on amazon and they're working wonderfully.

u/Soltan_Gris · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

So what I bought were:
https://www.amazon.com/111-Silicone-Ring-Durometer-Width/dp/B000FMWNZS/
and
https://www.amazon.com/109-Silicone-Ring-Durometer-Width/dp/B000FMWNS0/

I think I just bought the lid rings from the homebrew shop. These silicone ones last a lot longer than the typical black ones. The usual rings would always get gnarly and make it hard to remove the quick disconnects.

Hope that helps.

u/Picker-Rick · 1 pointr/foreskin_restoration

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FMWOAW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These work pretty well. And I got a lifetime supply for $4

They have the 1/8" thick ones for 10 dollars but I don't think it makes much difference.

u/LittleHelperRobot · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Non-mobile: These are probably the hardest and thickest

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

u/NorteastDesigns · 1 pointr/Nerf

For the main plunger and pusher seal I use 217 sized Silicone O rings. You can get them right here off amazon.


The O ring seat I use is currently just a flat surface. I've experimented with floating seals and a sloped seat but really noticed no difference. The actual diameter of the O ring seat is highly variable, because of the high variation in the old Poly tube I had to individually tune each blaster's seat. The usual range of diameters was between 1.22" and 1.24".


For the prototype Alloy tube (Which actually has a slightly larger ID of 1.509") I've currently worked the O ring seat to a diameter of 1.232", and even at that I believe I can go a few thou smaller while maintaining a perfect seal. I'm hoping that once the alloy PT becomes production ready, because of it's greater consistency individual seal tuning for each blaster will be a thing of the past.

u/huntz0r · 1 pointr/Miata

Have you replaced your CAS O-ring recently/ever? If not, this may be the root cause -- a slow oil leak from the CAS (at rear of exhaust cam) onto the heater hose, which over time degrades the hose. Feel around back there and see if the hose is covered in dirty oil.

If you do need to do that job, you can get a 5-pack of Viton O-rings in the correct size from Amazon. It's an extremely simple job as long as you don't try to do it without taking off the valve cover.

u/HumidNut · 1 pointr/NFA

Can confirm with my Octane45. 018 are the correct size

u/OfTheWild · 1 pointr/mechmarket

I do wired 'jailhouse' blues... I would try to convince anyone wanting them to go with J-Spacers or o-rings instead though. Heres the o-rings you would want https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MNBOGY/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I1WA1Y4CVDESN8&colid=35MLPSS5DRXFI

u/Natemiester · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I used these. They worked fine (I ended up removing them because I didn't like them that much).

u/BRlLLO · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

These work for mechanical keyboards and are a little cheaper alternative (not exactly what you're looking for but at least something to look into). http://www.amazon.com/008-Buna-N-O-Ring-Durometer-Round/dp/B0051XWXCE/ref=pd_sim_pc_43?ie=UTF8&refRID=03FZ1HQD6G9QPY8Q69KS

That being said, they're 50A not 40A. Otherwise, maybe someone has 4 extra they wouldn't mind shipping you?

u/my_elo_is_potato · 1 pointr/LOLDyrus
u/Kevinflo · 1 pointr/keyboards

First off try doing the o-ring modification with these. I found that it cut down on the sound of my mech keyboard and made the keyboard a bit nicer to type on.

If you really want to bail on mechanical though I use this for coding at work and I really like it for that. Otherwise I actually really like apple's usb keyboard with the numpad.

u/Tananar · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

These. I don't know if they're hard or soft, but iirc they have a 2mm travel reduction.

u/manirelli · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Slime? I assume you mean slim...

For anyone interested, this is the actual one I was looking at and one of the reviewers said it would work. Measurements seem to match closely to the ones on wasd.


http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0051XWXCE/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

u/SoySauceRoosterBrand · 1 pointr/mechmarket
u/t0w3r · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I used these, but felt they made bottoming out too mushy.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0051XWXCE/ref=pe_175190_21431760_M2T1_SC_dp_1

u/KungFuHamster · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Ok I guess I paid more than $3, these show as $8 right now: http://www.amazon.com/008-Buna-N-O-Ring-Durometer-Round/dp/B0051XWXCE/ref=pd_sim_pc_1

But if you search for "o-ring" on Amazon there are quite a few results that are cheaper, in varying sizes.

u/diablolico · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I bought these for my QuickFire Rapid (black), removes the "mushy" feeling as some describe it. Feels really good and solid. Not sure about shipping to Canada, but these o-rings are very common and there are tons of reviews of users installing them on heir MechKBs.

u/PacoBedejo · 1 pointr/starcitizen

If the reds are softer than the blacks, i don't know how you'll rest your fingers on the keys w/out depressing them. I find the blacks to be ideal for gaming and more than acceptable for typing. If I did more typing than mousing, I'd definitely want browns or blues.

Be sure to get yourself some O-rings though, otherwise you'll need some earplugs.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051XWXCE/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/imadeofwaxdanny · 1 pointr/NCSU

If you're interested, these are the ones I used on my keyboard. I think the Razer blue switches are a little different than the standard ones, but I don't see any reason they wouldn't work with how similar the two are.

u/wickedCircuits · 1 pointr/pcgaming

I just got this keyboard to, if you don't like the loud clacking from bottoming out, you can get o-rings to use as spacers under the keys, quieted mine down, so all I hear is the blues clicking.

Link to the o-rings on amazon.

u/RumpleForeSkin72 · 1 pointr/pcgaming

I have the red LED version of the K70 and the MX reds are pretty quiet. I put some O-rings on each key to limit their throw (the Reds actuate at the beginning of the depression rather than at the end like some other keys). The O-Rings made a HUGE difference in noise.

I find this keyboard to be just a smidge louder than my old logitech 510 but with the added benefits of being able to type without any sort of hand pain.

u/slip84 · 1 pointr/mechmarket
u/BzBz-CrispyLips · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Here are the O-Rings that I bought along side the WASD keyboard ones.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051XWXCE/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The WASD Keyboard brand ones are defiantly a lot softer and dampen a little better than the generic brands. :)

u/akelis · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

How about $8 from Amazon? These are harder (50A) than the blue/red sets, and should have a travel reduction of about 0.2mm

u/RoloisRight · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

Put an order in for the brown version yesterday along with some o-rings. Since the browns looked like they were going fast, I didn't have enough time to get in-depth on my search for o-rings and grabbed these to throw on the same order.

008 Buna-N O-Ring, 50A Durometer, Round, Black, 3/16" ID, 5/16" OD, 1/16" Width (Pack of 125)

u/lappalappa · 1 pointr/Twitch

Thanks man, and merry christmas! I found these (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051XWXCE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER) but they dont ship to Norway, so im honestly not sure where to buy these things, damn.

u/mister_wizard · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I have the BWU as well and used these. They worked fine and slightly mute the sound of them hitting the board when you push a key in. It wont make then silent, but it helps and is a cheap purchase.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051XWXCE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/mrknister · 1 pointr/mechmarket

I bought these for 20$ including shipping to germany, which should be a lot less for domestic shipping.

u/voxelnoose · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

These are the ones I have, dont know the size in metric and Im to lazy to look it up

u/Jwkicklighter · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Not sure if these are technically meant for a keyboard, and you won't be able to tell someone the exact size rating (in terms of the Cherry MX o-ring thicknesses from the pic I linked) but they're pretty cheap, there are more than enough for a full size keyboard, and they're what I used on my BW Ultimate: Amazon Link.

You need a keycap puller (or a way to get keycaps off) if you don't have one, but those are pretty cheap and easy to find.

u/billz12oz · 1 pointr/osugame

I mean that's a totally fine train of thought. I just recommended them because I felt my browns were way too loud. Once I got my o rings, the sound got dampened significantly, so I thought the 8 dollars I spent on the O rings was justified.

http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051XWXCE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/TheFrogOfWar · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

These are the ones I use on my QFR with browns. They make a big difference in noise level since I can't seem to learn not to bottom out.

008 Buna O-Ring, 50A Durometer, Round, Black by Small Parts

u/nolotusnotes · 1 pointr/Skookum
u/ModuleNerd · 1 pointr/Multicopter

Hmm, ok, I might try some of these because I am not sure if I have enough room in my setup because of the spacers my frame adds already to then bottom make the rest of the build on top quite tight.

u/CatfishChronic · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Alternative

Similar material and same dimensions, still ~$13

u/drainedout4life · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards
u/cyborgbear · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Technically not keyboard/switches/keys, but does anyone know if there's an actual difference in feeling between Jailhousing with Jspacers or just using these O-rings that get linked? Don't know if anyone has actually tried both

u/victorvito · 0 pointsr/buildapcsales

Add some of these and thank me later! Just be sure to get a keycap puller. I am currently typing from the exact setup and it is a dream.