Best oil filter wrenches according to redditors

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01BS5B3ZQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1509686282&sr=1-18&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&dpPl=1&dpID=51WuWxKkyVL&ref=plSrch

Best I can do. You’ll still burn your hand putting the wrench on.

As I am a subaru tech, these don't scare me anymore. But i'll let you in on the tricks that work for me.

1. Use an oil filter claw. I'm partial to the 2-jaw, like the Lisle 63600. Put that on a 6" extension and then a cheapie 3/8" ratchet. We're only going to use this to crack the filter loose, maybe 1/4 turn.
   
2. Let the filter drain! The oil that's in the filter will stay there obviously, but the oil in the pipework to and from the filter will want to drain back. Let it flow down the filter and into your catch. When it stops dribbling, proceed to 3.
   
3. If it's not so hot, simply place a shop rag over your hand, reach up there, and spin it off. Be careful not to tip the filter over and dump its oil on the exhaust.
   
4. If it really is a scorcher, grab one of those ubiquitous foam coffee cups from the break room or wherever, and shove it onto the bottom of the filter. The bottom of the cup will hang down low enough for you to spin it free without touching the exhaust.
   
5. Verify the oil filter seal didn't stick to the engine before installing new filter, via step 3 method if necessary.
   
   At this point i've just calloused my wrists and the back of my hands though so usually I just barehand it.

Buy this oil filter wrench in both sizes they make https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-63600-Oil-Filter-Tool/dp/B0002SR4Q8 It will remove stuck filters very easy.

I use this one. It works in a similar fashion as yours does. I can't imagine trying to change the oil in my Subaru (or many other vehicles really) without one of these.

> way up high behind the engine

so in a spot where you cant get to with a big ole honken tool like this one? and then get another arm up there to tighten it onto the filter?

id suggest looking at amazon for different oil filter wrenches. there are some really nice ones that, between a couple of them, will make any oil filter a breeze.

the 2 i rely on are this one for filters you can only access the side of:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B004FEPE76/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and (similar to) this on when you can only access the end(paired with a stubby wrench:

https://smile.amazon.com/Lisle-63600-Oil-Filter-Tool/dp/B0002SR4Q8/ref=pd_sim_469_9?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0002SR4Q8&pd_rd_r=ade3720f-6a9b-11e9-aa29-13293a7f6817&pd_rd_w=O6bcd&pd_rd_wg=tO60d&pf_rd_p=90485860-83e9-4fd9-b838-b28a9b7fda30&pf_rd_r=BE5JF7BM1Z6JZ6F9SSN9&psc=1&refRID=BE5JF7BM1Z6JZ6F9SSN9

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-63600-Oil-Filter-Tool/dp/B0002SR4Q8/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1347298267&sr=1-1&keywords=oil+filter+wrench

Better than burns. Having said that this tool completely negates most trouble with too tight filters https://www.amazon.ca/Lisle-63600-Oil-Filter-Tool/dp/B0002SR4Q8. It'll even hold the filter right enough that you can screw it on most of the way.

I agree with pretty much everyone else on this sub to a point. Be wary of the tool truck brands, it is EXTREMELY easy to find yourself in loads of debt real fast. I work as a lube tech at a GMC/Buick dealership. Since you're working on European stuff, save yourself some time and order these oil filter sockets. I don't work on a ton of euro cars, but a set like this will be very helpful (GearWrench 41890 6 Piece Oil Canister Socket Set Service Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007QV2KY0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_t5NvCbACT91ZE)

Now, HF is good to start off of, and I definitely recommend getting one of their roll carts, but i think their torx sockets are pretty meh and i dont think they have anything for triple squares(Not sure if you need them for LOFs), but Amazon will be your friend. Also, their air tools from what ive used are pretty meh. I haven't touched their impact wrenches, but keep that thing very well oiled and plan on replacing it sooner rather than later. I burned through 4 HF die grinders in the span of 5 months. All were oiled before use every time. After the last one, I went on Amazon and ordered an aircat one. Last 1.5 years have been problem free, but I've noticed that it's been shooting black gunk(read: metal shavings) out the exhaust for the past 3 months. There hasnt been a decrease in performance but i'm going to send it in for warranty anyways. They also make a large variety of air tools(it's in the name) and ive heard nothing but good things about them. Same with Astro pneumatic tools. Can acquire both from Amazon. I also shop frequently from another online vendor known as the Jersey Discount Tool Company. Search the app JDTCo on your appstore or find the Snap on/Mac/ Matco buy sell trade page on Facebook. Both are run by a guy named nick. He can beat pretty much anyone on anything gearwrench, milwaukee, dewalt, sunex and various other brands. Dude has saved me a ton of money as well as many others, so shameless plug.

Other than that, if you do want to buy from the truck brands, have a list of things you want, and hunt deals and monthly fliers. If you're a student, get on the student discount train and ride that.

Other than that, good luck!

Edit: I forgot these are the bees knees when working on Euro cars: European M14 x 1.5 Professional Stainless Steel Wheel Hanger Studs (Set of 2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L2WE27G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FoOvCb7B70M93

Always remember to reset the oil life and tpms(if the light is on). I assume you will have a site like mitchells or alldata where you can look up the procedures for these. When mounting tires watch out for tpms its no fun having to replace a sensor because you broke it. If you get free time shadow other techs if they don't mind you doing that, its a good way to pick up different tips/tricks that you may need and it shows you want to move up in the company. And if you are ever in doubt about something call someone over for a quick double check before it goes out the door. Get one of these when you run into some Subarus you'll know why I said to get it. And don't go all hercules on the oil filters it is very annoying when you try and take it off the next time.

32mm ecotec socket is what you need. A swivel and an 8" or so extension and you'll be looking good.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0009OMYAQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487810126&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=32mm+ecotec+socket&dpPl=1&dpID=41gUeDqS3zL&ref=plSrch

Why don't you people use a Filter Ratchet wrench?

An ASSTOY640 oil filter wrench. They are used to remove the caps of cartridge filter housings (an example with the tool to remove it installed on it) which manufacturers from many makes have started using in place of standard spin-on oil filters.

Instead these housings are a reusable plastic or metal container that house a replaceable filter element (this one is an example of a Prius filter) and depending on the vehicle manufacturer some require special tools to remove the cap correctly without damage.

Others though use a nut on top that you can buy a special socket set for although depending on the access available, you can sometimes use a regular 1/2 drive socket instead (Dodge Grand Caravans for example as they take a 24mm socket to remove).

The main reason why this tool failed though is because many Toyota models are known for breaking these tools when people overtighten the housings on reinstall and then when the next guy goes to remove the housing, it's simply on too tight for the tool to be able to withstand the force required to remove it. Heck I've seen one on so tight that an air hammer was required to finally remove it, followed by the last guy who installed it getting an earful about it.

these are a life saver and a good set of extensions.

https://www.amazon.com/Williams-50673-8-Inch-Socket-15-Piece/dp/B005VMVEV6/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?keywords=jh+Williams+set&qid=1565396842&s=gateway&sr=8-7

https://www.amazon.com/Williams-100P-8MD-8-Piece-Premium-Screwdriver/dp/B002NH5F30/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=jh+Williams+set&qid=1565396884&s=gateway&sr=8-2

https://www.amazon.com/Williams-50661-4-Inch-Socket-27-Piece/dp/B002O18PLO/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=jh%2BWilliams%2Bset&qid=1565396884&s=gateway&sr=8-5&th=1&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/KNIPEX-Tools-9K-00-Combination/dp/B00KBCM456/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=knipex+pliers+set&qid=1565396944&s=gateway&sprefix=knipex+plier&sr=8-6

https://www.amazon.com/Sunex-2569-Master-Impact-43Piece/dp/B00MPQ88RY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=sunex+1%2F2+impact+socket+set&qid=1565396983&s=gateway&sprefix=sunex+&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/Ingersoll-231C-Super-Duty-Impact-Wrench/dp/B0002SRM3I/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=ingersoll+rand+1%2F2+impact&qid=1565397014&s=gateway&sprefix=inger&sr=8-6

https://www.strictlytoolboxes.com/tool-vault-56-11-drawer-tool-cabinet.html

https://www.amazon.com/Streamlight-Stinger-Flashlight-Steady-Charger/dp/B0015ZO8VG/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?keywords=streamlight+flashlight&qid=1565397140&s=gateway&sprefix=streamli&sr=8-9

https://www.amazon.com/Sunluway-Filter-Socket-Adjustable-Removal/dp/B07MGR24BP/ref=mp_s_a_1_17?keywords=oil+filter+socket+set&qid=1565397258&s=gateway&sprefix=oil+filter&sr=8-17


https://www.amazon.com/Industrial-CDI-2503MFRPH-Adjustable-Micrometer/dp/B000KL4H80/ref=sxin_3_sxwds-bovbs?keywords=cdi+torque+wrench&pd_rd_i=B000KL4H80&pd_rd_r=cb4b628e-131d-4fcc-b250-1d9ff8c30f7a&pd_rd_w=dmdpJ&pd_rd_wg=pkYb4&pf_rd_p=eba0c0ae-19a3-4eb8-a600-1bc2a745bcd0&pf_rd_r=DDV7A2667PM9STRGS9T6&qid=1565397296&s=gateway&sprefix=cdi



Buy this list and stay away from tool trucks. Good luck

Get one of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SR4Q8

They’re sweet. You’re welcome.

It's an oil filter removal tool, like this. Best kind I've ever used. In the 7 years I've had it, there's only been one time it's not worked and I think that was because it was in a bad spot and I couldn't get straight on it.

I remember taking the factory oil filter off my GFs Ninja 300. Note that I have been changing oil on my bike and cars for a looong time. The filter was so tight I couldn't remove it using anything. Here is what I suggest:

1. Get this tool. The right size for your filter of course. The filter straps usually don't work for shit for truly stuck filters because they just end up slipping. With the wrench cap, you put it on and use a nice breaker bar and there is no way it ain't coming off. It's fun to use even when your filter is not stuck as it can help you get that filter off without removing the fairings with the use of ratchet extensions. You also have these and they auto-adjust to size which is cool (a buddy of mine swears by that tool) and that should technically also work if you start deforming the filter, so a plus for that tool although personally I have the fixed, non adjustable cap.
   
2. Get the bottom fairings/belly pan off if you haven't yet. You can get the filter off through the hole in front but if the filter is stuck, the extra working space will allow you to attack at better angles.
   
3. If you have the tool already, use a big enough pipe wrench. No way it is not coming off with one.
   
4. As a last resort, large screwdriver and hammer. Hammer the screwdriver around the back of the filter (as to not damage the threads on the bike) all the way through both sides, like so. And then just twist. You can then also give the screwdriver light taps to get the filter unstuck. This one is a messy process, expect oil everywhere so prepare in advance.
   
   And when you put on the fresh filter, make sure you lube the o-ring with oil and do not over-tighten!

I bought one of these and it's an absolute joy: http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-63600-Oil-Filter-Tool/dp/B0002SR4Q8

Makes the oil changes on my '06 STI and my wife's '07 Forester a breeze. Granted, you can't use the wrench to put the new filters on but at least you won't burn yourself trying to take them off.

04152-YZZA6
Amazon sells five packs. http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyota-Prius-Filter-04152-YZZA6/dp/B007OW6JEI

Also, if you haven't done it yet, you'll want the ASSTOY 640 too.
http://www.amazon.com/Assenmacher-Specialty-Tools-TOY-640/dp/B0015PK3AG/ref=pd_sim_auto_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=1MXQBK1ZKTZSDZ4407XX

Its not worth an engine to try and duct tape it, sounds like you need a better tool for getting it off.
Most parts stores carry these and they work well. Just make sure you get the right size range for your car.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-63600-Oil-Filter-Tool/dp/B0002SR4Q8

I want one now..

http://www.harborfreight.com/universal-3-jaw-adjustable-oil-filter-wrench-69021.html

or this thing:

http://www.amazon.com/Worlds-Best-Universal-Filter-Wrench/dp/B000UD0CTQ

saves me some bbq'd hands

https://www.amazon.com/SK-Piece-Turbo-Socket-Removal/dp/B0009WRKX4

This works perfect for pulling those stupid wheel locks off. Pound it on with a hammer then crank it loose. If your not comfortable with that your dealership should have a master set that they can remove it with or a tire shop/dealer should have that socket set to force them off

Some type of oil filter wrench (for cars) should do the trick, there are many different types out there.

After looking through your pictues again,

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000UD0CTQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1427821476&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SY200_QL40&keywords=oil+filter+wrench&dpPl=1&dpID=41WDAhTpWiL&ref=plSrch this is probably your best bet.

Also, http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002SR4Q8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1427821476&sr=8-1&keywords=oil+filter+wrench&dpPl=1&dpID=41gd0o9Ph8L&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

$20 for an obscure tool seems like a fair price to me. A name-brand Toyota oil filter cap wrench costs about that and there are millions of cars driving around that need it.

For stuck oil filters I found this

I stick it on a 1/2" breaker bar and it removes the filter no problem. The jaws are so long they grab the entire filter so it doesn't twist.

No dice on something like this? http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002SR4AO/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1397441520&sr=1-2&pi=SX200_QL40

Oooo I love tool shopping. So if I had to start over buying tools here's my list
Wrenches

1/2" sockets

3/8+1/4 sockets

Oil strap wrench

Pry bars with strike cap

1/2" impact

Pick set

Door upholstry remover

Stethoscope

Valve core tool

Electrical tool

Pliers: needle nose, long length needle nose, end nippers, diagonal cutters, tongue and groove, locking of all sizes and shapes

Lockable tool box, I like Husky Husky 2 electric boogaloo and HF cart don't forget to use the coupon!

This is what I use Cap Style Oil Filter Socket Wrench 65mm 14 Flutes, Toyota, Honda ,Lexus https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H8K1BJE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_C6UXzbSJVA8F6

I like these

Maintenance on Toyota vehicles is easy. If you are buying a truck, you'll have to remove skid plates to get to the oil filter and oil drain plug in most cases. Make sure you have 10, 12, 14, 17, 19, and 21 mm tools. You'll need one of these to change the oil filter.

These are pretty awesome too.

Instead of using those filter wrenches, just get a universal filter wrench. One like this: https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-53500-Satndard-Swivel-Filter/dp/B0002SR4AO

You can find one like this at any autoparts store or even Walmart. It is inexpensive and as long as the oil filter is accessible with this kind of tool you'll get it off no problem. When you put the new oil filter on, take a little used oil out of the pan and spread it over the gasket of the new filter, then just hand tighten the filter. Don't go overboard with the hand tightening either, don't make it uncomfortable for yourself, but make sure it is snug. The gasket will expand when the car warms up and create a good seal.

Now if you don't want to go get a new tool, you can take your filter wrench that you have now and try to line it up over the top of the filter then take a rubber mallet, or anything blunt, and tap it until it is snug on the filter.

Do you have a finger-style oil-filter cup wrench?

Preferably this one:

https://smile.amazon.com/Lisle-63600-Oil-Filter-Tool/dp/B0002SR4Q8?sa-no-redirect=1

https://www.amazon.com/Innovative-Products-America-7899-Filter/dp/B000M9OL5O

These filter pliers make short work of filters like that.

SK makes this kit that I've had decent luck with. Honestly I'd just get some replacements and run by any tire store to have them swap them out. They'll already have everything they need and lots of experience getting them off.

So I’ll address the “issues” that I’m familiar with. I have a 16 and a 19 SR5 Tundra.

The mic problem, I’m not so sure about. I’d honestly recommend just replacing the head unit. The factory radios suck and are glitchy. If you’re not comfortable doing it, they’re not that pricy to have professionally installed.

The fluids and 8 quarts of oil checks. It’s almost 100 bucks to do it yourself and I highly recommend getting the oil filter tool from Motivx to save on some frustration. (Motivx Tools Oil Filter Wrench for Toyota, Lexus, and Scion 2.0 To 5.7 Liter Engines with 64mm Cartridge Style Oil Filter System - Perfect for Camry, RAV4, Tacoma, Highlander, Sienna, Tundra, and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XTAGHU0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DseuDb475B820)

The exhaust, yeah they sound incredible with an exhaust. They are true dual from the factory with headers (not manifolds) until the outlet on the factory muffler. I took all of that off and welded in a RacePro muffler by Pypes (dual inlet and dual outlet) and then just threw some 90 degree pre-bent piping and routed it out the side, behind the step and in front of the passenger rear tire. Sounds mean and looks amazing.

The motors are bulletproof to include the 5.7, just keep fresh oil in them. I do every 5k miles with 10k mike oil from mobil1 exclusively and they’ll keep on running.

The brake controller Primus IQ is incredible and super quick and easy to install. I highly recommend that one as I have it in both of mine.

The oil pressure indications you’re describing are 100% normal. When you cold start the truck the oil is “cold” (not that it’s ever cold in Texas) so the oil is more viscous. Therefore when you hit the gas, the pressure increases due to the oil not being able to flow as easily as it can when it’s warmed up. This is normal and to be expected. Once it’s warmed up, the oil can flow easier which will cause less deflection of the pressure gauge, naturally. This is also why they recommend warming the engine up before an oil change so as to allow it to drain easier and you’ll get more oil out of the motor this way.

Hope this helps and welcome to the club!

Oh good lord, you just brought back some terrible memories. Long story short (literally, 18 hours, including a much needed alcohol break), I'll never do another oil change without one of these.

A few things from HF that I own and would recommend. Jack Stands, jack, breaker bar, 1/4'' ratchet, 3/8'' ratchet, 1/2'' ratchet, 3/8'' locking extensions, 1/2'' locking extensions, screwdrivers. Some other things I would recommend, Lisle oil filter wrench, Lisle oil pan. I would look on Ebay for used Craftsman sockets sets and combination wrenches. That should be enough to get you started. You can upgrade and expand from there as you see fit.

And Don't forget the HF coupons ;)

Hmm, even on sale the M1 6x1qt boxes at my costco are often more expensive per qt than the 5qt jugs at my local walmart. Also you'll want a removal tool for the oil filter cap, it's this style. Maybe your IS350 uses the same type?

Very easy, no need for fancy tools but you do need a few basics:

Something like these:
http://www.amazon.com/Blitz-11903-Rhino-Ramp-8000/dp/B000AMMN9O
http://www.amazon.com/Blitz-11838-Oil-Drain-Pan/dp/B000AMGYNA/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1313509663&sr=1-2
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-63250-Range-Filter-Wrench/dp/B0002SR4PY/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1313509691&sr=1-2

Before you start, you ought to take a look under the car to make sure the oil filter is easy to access. A PITA oil filter makes the job a lot harder. Read this on how to safely jack your car and look underneath it: http://autorepair.about.com/od/safetyfirst/qt/jack_safety.htm

Assuming everything is A-OK: http://autorepair.about.com/od/regularmaintenance/ss/oil_change.htm

Save the empty oil jugs and pour the used motor oil from the drain pan into the jugs (I like the gallon sized jugs for that reason). Go to Autozone or a simliar location, they'll offer free oil recycling.

The oil change itself usually only takes about 10 minutes, it's usually right next to effortless, and you'll know that some jiffy-lube place didn't rip you off ;)

Oh, and the first couple times, they're serious about 3/4 of a turn on the filter, and only a medium-effort hand tight: too tight and it's going to be impossible to get off later. I don't pre-fill the filter with oil. After you've filled it up, I usually run the car for a minute or two on the jack stands to make sure I don't have any leaks. If everything looks good, back it off the ramps, turn it off and check the level after a few minutes (to let the oil drain down into the sump). If everything looks A-OK, remember to check under the car for leaks wherever you park it for the next few days. The more often you do it, the less you'll have to worry, but occasionally things do go a little awry: I once didn't realize the old filter gasket didn't come off with the old filter, so I had two filter gaskets on. One of them gave way once the temperature and pressure got high, made quite a mess. Also, had a stone or something put a tiny dent in my oil filter can, that eventually turned into a pinhole, that eventually turned into a steady spray. Luckily it was in a vehicle with an oil pressure gauge and I noticed my pressure slowly dropping and was able to drive somewhere I could work on it.

Good luck!

Well, I'd say everyone has done a fine job at covering the personal type advice. Lot of great advice on how to succeed and advance. I'm more of a hardware guy, so lets talk tools.

I love tools and so do you, whether you know it yet or not. The shop I worked at only had 3 mechanics plus a counter guy. Obviously we didn't have lube techs, tire techs, mechanical techs, etc... we just took whatever came in, in whatever order it came in. So even split between lube and repairs by a huge margin, my most valuable tool was my cart

My bay was always neater, and I was always faster because I had my red cart with all the tools I needed for lube and tire jobs super organized on it. So for oil changes and tire rotations I didn't even go to my toolbox, I just pushed my cart over and got it done. For any other work, I just went one time to my toolbox, got everything I would need for a job, put it on the cart with my lube tools, then take it all in one trip.

As long as you

• Don't set a tool down anywhere other than on your cart!
  
  
• Always put away tools you put on your cart between every job. No exceptions.
  
  you will never lose a tool.
  
  On my cart, I screwed down a magnetic strip on the top shelf, and kept the 3/8" drive sockets for common oil pan plugs on one end, and the impact sockets for common lug nuts on the other. Also on top I had a Philips and flathead screwdriver, a 3/8" ratchet, a few different length extensions, a 1/4" ratchet with a 10mm attached, a flashlight, a tire gauge, my filter wrench, a super-cheap code reader, and one of these. It looks silly, and sounds stupid, and your coworkers will laugh at it, but your hands stay so much cleaner.
  
  On the middle shelf, I had a massive pile of clean grease rags, and a 1/2 gallon pump bottle of hand scrub.
  
  On the bottom shelf was a small cardboard box to throw dirty rags in until I had a chance to dump them in the can, my impact gun, a couple impact extensions, and a tire inflator.
  
  Hanging on the side I had two sets of rubber-coated gloves. One "dirty" and one "clean". One set was for wearing outside the car to keep shit off my hands. The other set was to put on when I needed to touch something inside the car, to keep the shit that did get on my hands, off the upholstery.
  
  Among the thousands of dollars of tools in my 7 foot high tool chest, what I've described above probably accounts for 75% of my daily tool usage, and more like 99% of my oil/tire job tool usage. Set yourself up like that, and don't even worry about a tool bag.

> Keep in mind you need the special 64mm oil filter ratchet head to change the filter.

I use one of these universal type wrenches...
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko®-03421A-Adjustable-Filter-Adapter/dp/B000UD0CTQ

The one I use has 3 slots on both sides. The one you pictures has 3 slots on one side but only one slot on the other side. Mine is a 2010. This is the one I use. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00Y5JWW1W/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_inactive_ship_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

When I worked at a quicklube we used (these)[ http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002SR4Q8/ref=pd_aw_sbs_2?pi=SL500_SY115&simLd=1] to get off even filters from the factory even (first oil change ones, but they torque them on the assembly line) the worst I ever had, I put a rag under the tool, got a long extension to get some space, and then put a wrench on the back of the breaker bar. It crushed the filter completely but came off

Buy one of these and use it with an extension. No more burned forearms.

The Lisle filter Tool--Amazon makes changing Subaru filters a piece of cake.

1. I’m sure there are a few sockets available that fit but I just use a generic spring loaded one like this
   
   
2. I’m not 100% sure but I believe they just have slightly different labels
   
   
3. I’m not aware of any way to add that feature to another vehicle.

Dude just buy this and a 24mm socket for it...

I got one of these things because occasionally my mom takes her car to a shop to have the oil changed instead of letting me do it. I destroyed one of those fiber+plastic filter wrenches trying to get the filter off. I'm convinced those bastards tighten that oil filter within an inch of its life.

You could try one of these

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-60200-Heavy-Filter-Wrench/dp/B007QVB71C?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-fpas-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B007QVB71C

Or grab a big set of channel looks

Old school oil filter wrench?

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-53500-Satndard-Swivel-Filter/dp/B0002SR4AO

Possibly a section of a leather belt and the mother of all channel-lock pliers, a Lead lined pipe wrench.

I'm beginning to think this thing wants to be broken. There are nasty digging chain wrenches. At this point I might recommend some heat both for that gasket seal and behind the prop.

I use a pair of these as my main set of oil filter pliers, and something similar to this if a filter really wants to start some drama. Something like this socket type strap wrench pretty much always works as well, is cheap, and is easier to fit than the strap wrenches with the big plastic handles built in.

Buy one of these. They'll save your life. When the screwdriver trick just cuts the filter in half.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000UD0CTQ?pc_redir=1413366031&robot_redir=1

If you get the right size, something like this never fails.

I bought an oil filter socket on amazon, didn't get the 15/16" socket since my giant crescent wrench fits the nut perfectly to get that filter off. I swear to the gods of car motors that I will never go to a Jiffy Lube ever again. I found out that they didn't replace my filter (I used a permanent marker to write the date and milage on the bottom of the filter where you can see it. I checked later that day and there it was still . I called up the shop and told them what I found. They offered a free oil change, naturally I declined)

I use this one. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XTAGHU0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You'll need a different size for the Corolla. But the brand is solid.

The Fram rubber/grit bottomed ones are great. Also I have one of these that makes a huge difference if I can't get the filter loose by hand.

The first time I did my oil change I took the filter cap off with a pair channel-locks. The next time, I bought the oil filter cap socket and it was much easier. I didn't know the size, I just bought it online, as it was just a light-duty one meant for oil filters. HERE is the one I got, it does show the size.

Good to know regular ramps may not work. I used my DIY ramps, which are real long with a gradual step, but kind of a pain to use.

The cap is just plastic, it shouldn't need to be cranked on hard at all, since it uses an o-ring for the seal.

Out of all the vehicles I've changed oil on, after having the socket, this is one of the easier ones. There are much worse out there.

I agree with the other posts about using penetrating oil. Another you could try is to use an oil filter wrench like this. I use something almost identical with an extension, as the oil filter in my car is fairly buried. I find that it works much better than the wrap around kind. You could also try the generic method of increasing torque which is to use a ratchet with a longer handle.

According to reviews this should fit our filters (15208AA15A): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AKA6LNU/ref=psdc_15708821_t2_B00KMULTDA

I used a similar wrench on my previous vehicle (Jeep) and they really work great. I've got this specific model on order right now and will try to remember to update y'all with results.

You need one of these

Lisle 63600 Oil Filter Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SR4Q8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4lqrDb20FBPSQ

I use one of these (properly sized of course) on my motorcycle, it’s awesome.

Cap Style Oil Filter Socket Wrench 65mm 14 Flutes, Toyota, Honda ,Lexus https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H8K1BJE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_aPq.zbHCB2ZH6

I would recommend a tool called a "crunch cup" which you can find online these things are awesome http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-63250-Range-Filter-Wrench/dp/B0002SR4PY/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1371733976&sr=8-6&keywords=oil+filter+tool

I use this one:

EWK 64mm 14 Flutes Oil Filter Cap Wrench Housing Opener Tool for Toyota Scion Lexus Honda https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H8K1BJE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_tifltec2nW7je

This link is what I used when I first started changing my own oil:

https://paulstravelpictures.com/2012-2016-Toyota-Camry-2AR-FE-I4-Engine-Oil-Change-Guide/

I also highly recommending getting this type of filter wrench rather than a generic one from a parts store. The notches on the side make changing the filter much easier:

https://www.amazon.com/Motivx-Tools-Toyota-Filter-Engines/dp/B00XTAGHU0/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=motivx+oil+filter+wrench&qid=1563385504&s=gateway&sprefix=motive+x+&sr=8-3

It's not the cheapest option but 90% of the time these gator jaw pliers are THE best for tight oil filters, only limited by clearance issues on things like Chevy trucks or Subarus where the filter is right up against oil pan/exhaust or something like that. https://www.amazon.com/Innovative-Products-America-7899-Filter/dp/B000M9OL5O

The filter may be too destroyed to work but I been able to get any filter off with these:

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-63600-Oil-Filter-Tool/dp/B0002SR4Q8

If its the 2.4l, you're going to need either a socket, or an inch and a quarter wrench. You can find the wrench at a hardware store, or find the socket at an autoparts store, but watch out if they try to sell you a tall socket. Check it to see if it fits before you leave. With the oil filter being on top, you want to change the filter before you drain the oil believe it or not. Because its essentially upside down, the oil sits in the filter reservoir until you pull the filter out. The filter doesn't sit under or on the side of the motor like a conventional one. It's a black circular cap you can see on the right side from the top down.

If you just go to your preferred store, they'll help you out with your filter. I usually just go to Napa, since there's one down the street from me, and I use their oil, which is just Valvoline synthetic blend with a Napa sticker on it. You can find the amount of oil you need in the manual.

Remember to use jack stands!!

I have broken 2 of these. I prefer the to use the one without the teeth and then use a claw for anything it doesn't fit on. Just a tip in case you were actually looking to buy one of these

I have used this filter wrench on my 2014 prius:

https://www.amazon.com/Motivx-Tools-Filter-Wrench-Engines/dp/B00Y5JWW1W

with this 27mm socket:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NPPCH8

It has worked pretty well for the 2 oil changes that I have done on my prius. I learned on the first oil change to jack up the front of the car about as high as you can to keep the plastic panel out of the way, and have room for my big socket wrench on the oil filter casing.

You guys need the right tool. A good oil filter wrench makes a world of difference on an aluminum block. I do these filters every day, they tighten gradually with every heat cycle so it's normal for them to be insanely tight 6k miles later. In all my career at Subaru I've never seen anyone use a tool to tighten these filters, they are always done by hand.

Most auto parts stores should have them, most imports use the same size (Honda, Toyota, Nissan) Think I paid like $5 for one
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H8K1BJE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_tRbIzbN4E36YH

This Lisle Oil Filter Tool works well too. They also have a larger size for bigger filters.

I'm thinking you could probably remove them with one of these without too much trouble.

Might not be worth the effort though, depends on the rims.

Filter tool looks like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Motivx-Tools-Toyota-Filter-Engines/dp/B00XTAGHU0

Filter drain is a 3/8 square drive, but really it's optional.

Firstly, I agree with ramps over jacks for anything not requiring wheel removal.
Second, one of these adjustable oil filter tools have been my best friend. 1 tool any filter. They make a 2 finger and a 3 finger model. I have a 2 finger one as shown in the link, reviews show it has more "bite" than the 3 finger one

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SR4Q8?tag=vglnkc3018-20

Because it was on a lanyard, it could be part of a magnetic oil drainpipe removal tool. Possibly one whose original cable had broken off. https://www.amazon.com/Aramox-Magnetic-Removal-Remover-Against/dp/B07T4FYPML/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=magnetic+oil+drain+plug+remover&qid=1572260574&sr=8-7

You needed one of these!