Best oil system tools according to redditors
We found 258 Reddit comments discussing the best oil system tools. We ranked the 97 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 258 Reddit comments discussing the best oil system tools. We ranked the 97 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01BS5B3ZQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1509686282&sr=1-18&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&dpPl=1&dpID=51WuWxKkyVL&ref=plSrch
Best I can do. You’ll still burn your hand putting the wrench on.
As I am a subaru tech, these don't scare me anymore. But i'll let you in on the tricks that work for me.
At this point i've just calloused my wrists and the back of my hands though so usually I just barehand it.
Specifically for my truck I have:
a flexing spark plug socket like this one and spark plug pullers
An OBD II Scanner
Auto jack(s)
An oil pan and an oil filter wrench or other tool that makes the filter easier to remove
And, of course, jumper cables, a poncho or two, some spare water bottles and all that good stuff that stays in the truck too.
Edit: Honestly, this is a great place to start--Stanley 65-Piece Homeowner's Tool Kit
Buy this oil filter wrench in both sizes they make https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-63600-Oil-Filter-Tool/dp/B0002SR4Q8 It will remove stuck filters very easy.
I use this one. It works in a similar fashion as yours does. I can't imagine trying to change the oil in my Subaru (or many other vehicles really) without one of these.
Better than burns. Having said that this tool completely negates most trouble with too tight filters https://www.amazon.ca/Lisle-63600-Oil-Filter-Tool/dp/B0002SR4Q8. It'll even hold the filter right enough that you can screw it on most of the way.
> Jesus Christ I spill all the time
Amazon
O'Reillys
Ayy a set of 4
This looks fancy
Id start with something line this starter set, a 3/8 breaker bar, 1/2 breaker bar, a Decent torque wrench, a plier set, vice grips, channel locks, adjustable wrench, screw driver set, a multimeter, decent scan tool, a jack, a funnell some drain pans from walmart, pb blaster, jack stands and make some wheel chocks. I'm sure I'm missing something pertinent, but remember you can rent some tools at your local parts store for free with a deposit so check to see what they rent before you buy. Also buy the remainder of the tools as you need them, its tough buying a lot of tools at once especially once you develop an affinity for some quality tools. A lot of the youtube guys have videos on what they use they most, but what I've listed should cover most maintenance tasks for your car.
> way up high behind the engine
so in a spot where you cant get to with a big ole honken tool like this one? and then get another arm up there to tighten it onto the filter?
id suggest looking at amazon for different oil filter wrenches. there are some really nice ones that, between a couple of them, will make any oil filter a breeze.
the 2 i rely on are this one for filters you can only access the side of:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B004FEPE76/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and (similar to) this on when you can only access the end(paired with a stubby wrench:
https://smile.amazon.com/Lisle-63600-Oil-Filter-Tool/dp/B0002SR4Q8/ref=pd_sim_469_9?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0002SR4Q8&pd_rd_r=ade3720f-6a9b-11e9-aa29-13293a7f6817&pd_rd_w=O6bcd&pd_rd_wg=tO60d&pf_rd_p=90485860-83e9-4fd9-b838-b28a9b7fda30&pf_rd_r=BE5JF7BM1Z6JZ6F9SSN9&psc=1&refRID=BE5JF7BM1Z6JZ6F9SSN9
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-63600-Oil-Filter-Tool/dp/B0002SR4Q8/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1347298267&sr=1-1&keywords=oil+filter+wrench
bleed the system properly.
I can almost guarantee you have air in the system. if you're not noticing the level dropping.
to bleed the car properly watch this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zUpXgAJ1gjU
you can get that funnel off amazon Lisle spill free funnel
you can certainly do it without that funnel but you'll be in for a messy/sticky job and you'll let fluid spill all over the damn place.
Always remember to reset the oil life and tpms(if the light is on). I assume you will have a site like mitchells or alldata where you can look up the procedures for these. When mounting tires watch out for tpms its no fun having to replace a sensor because you broke it. If you get free time shadow other techs if they don't mind you doing that, its a good way to pick up different tips/tricks that you may need and it shows you want to move up in the company. And if you are ever in doubt about something call someone over for a quick double check before it goes out the door. Get one of these when you run into some Subarus you'll know why I said to get it. And don't go all hercules on the oil filters it is very annoying when you try and take it off the next time.
Here is the filter you need (just search for the model number on Amazon and you can buy it there. Your model number is KN-138). For oil, I run Rotella Synthetic, but any 5W-40 or 10W-40 will work (the 5 and 10 just designate the temperature at which it will still run well, ie 5 C or 10 C. I live in the north east so I go for 5 for peace of mind). Regardless of which you choose, you'll need about 2.9 quarts for a full (ie with filter) change.
Get some nitrile gloves (especially for spreading oil on the filter when you install it), shop towels for clean up, and you may want to look into getting a new crush washer for the drain bolt (not sure if/when yours has ever been replaced. They can last a while, but it's not a bad idea to replace it if you aren't sure). An oil filter clamp isn't a bad idea to help with getting them off, but I doubt you'll have issue with it. Don’t forget a good oil drain pan (I recommend this one with a screw in, top spout – this is what the oil would drain into – the oil filter holder on the top so it can drain over 24 hours, as well as a front spout), as well as a funnel to help you get the oil in.
Let me know if you need help with anything else. I've found these instructions helpful for those new to it and they are the exact same for you, too. What do you need to change the rectifier for?
these are a life saver and a good set of extensions.
An ASSTOY640 oil filter wrench. They are used to remove the caps of cartridge filter housings (an example with the tool to remove it installed on it) which manufacturers from many makes have started using in place of standard spin-on oil filters.
Instead these housings are a reusable plastic or metal container that house a replaceable filter element (this one is an example of a Prius filter) and depending on the vehicle manufacturer some require special tools to remove the cap correctly without damage.
Others though use a nut on top that you can buy a special socket set for although depending on the access available, you can sometimes use a regular 1/2 drive socket instead (Dodge Grand Caravans for example as they take a 24mm socket to remove).
The main reason why this tool failed though is because many Toyota models are known for breaking these tools when people overtighten the housings on reinstall and then when the next guy goes to remove the housing, it's simply on too tight for the tool to be able to withstand the force required to remove it. Heck I've seen one on so tight that an air hammer was required to finally remove it, followed by the last guy who installed it getting an earful about it.
Someone needs to get one of these things to fill/bleed coolant. Pretty standard stuff.
32mm ecotec socket is what you need. A swivel and an 8" or so extension and you'll be looking good.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0009OMYAQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487810126&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=32mm+ecotec+socket&dpPl=1&dpID=41gUeDqS3zL&ref=plSrch
MOst used tool I see is the spill free funnel for radiators: http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24610-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B001A4EAV0
They were Walmart ventless 5Gallon. The spouts are the new EPA ones and they suck! I would suggest getting a long 12" oil funnel and not using the spouts. But the ventless made it great to stash in the cab when leaving the truck unattended. The linked ones also are heavy plastic.
funnel: https://www.amazon.com/Plews-75-068-Super-Funnel-Capacity/dp/B000G7AJUS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1539629148&sr=8-2&keywords=oil+funnel+long
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gas cans: https://express.google.com/u/0/product/14075393257875197736_15875286630903633256_8175035?utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=tu_cu&utm_content=eid-lsjeuxoeqt,eid-4160052&gtim=CNzB0dKo-Zec-gEQmePz5_GUp616GIDaxAkiA1VTRCiQ2aTeBTC7-_ID&utm_campaign=8175035&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI1_-A8I2J3gIVkIxpCh3f8QInEAQYAiABEgKSHPD_BwE
Get one of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SR4Q8
They’re sweet. You’re welcome.
It's an oil filter removal tool, like this. Best kind I've ever used. In the 7 years I've had it, there's only been one time it's not worked and I think that was because it was in a bad spot and I couldn't get straight on it.
From what I've heard, you don't actually need to take your wheels off to dip. If you don't know what tools you'll need to do it, then you probably should go this route.
However if you still want to get some good tools to learn how to work on your car, here's what you'll need:
Floor jack this is the Harbor Freight one. It can be found in stores for as low as $70 depending on coupons. It's actually a pretty decent jack. Its very low and it lifts well. It's pretty good quality too, just very heavy. If you're not in the states/near a HF, do some research on a decent one as you don't want to drop your car on anyone/anything.
Jack stands you'll need four if you want to take all your wheels off at once. I don't have these stands and I don't know anything about them so do your research on some good ones (they don't have to be very expensive) and make sure to get some that will support your vehicles weight. Remember, be safe.
Breaker bar this will help you get the leverage you need to break your lug nuts loose. It's a very smart idea to properly torque your lug nuts back down when you put your wheels back on so they don't fall off or you don't snap a stud. Here's a combo kit with a torque wrench and that same breaker bar I have a few Tekton brand tools and I'm very pleased with them. They are a fantastic budget option that isn't junk. I would definitely buy from them again (and I'm a bit of a tool snob)
Lug nut sockets this is a generic kit that I have no experience with. You'll need a socket to fit on your breaker bar and torque wrench. This is a set with multiple sizes, you only need one size for your car so if you want to save some money, figure out what size your lug nuts are and just get one socket. The ones in this kit and some you'll find elsewhere are coated in a plastic sleeve to prevent scratching on your wheels.
Gloves Gloves aren't necessary but some people like them to keep from getting their hands super dirty. You can get as cheap or as expensive as you like with gloves. These seem to be popular. If you do go to HF to buy a floor jack, I like their heavy duty black nitrile gloves. They're disposable and very strong.
This should be all you need to get started with changing tires and whatnot. I'm on mobile so sorry for the inevitable typo. Good luck with your wheels and don't forget to post pictures on the finished product. I'll link some more tools below this if you'd like to build of a kit to do basic maintenance like changing your oil, etc...
Socket set This is a very good place to start with sockets. I linked a 1/4 drive and 3/8 combo set. The smaller 1/4 inch drive sockets are great for small places and will be fine for a lot of your car. The 3/8 inch drive set is good for larger fasteners or things that are a bit tighter. If you were only going to get one, I'd get the 3/8 drive. Alternatively if you want something a little bit better, GearWrench makes very good sockets and ratchets for a good price as well (more than Tekton but way less than "professional" tool truck brands)
Oil drain pan Doing an oil change is a great way to do maintenance on your car and get started before you do bigger things. You'll need to drain the old oil somewhere so a pan like this is perfect. You don't need anything too fancy. I think I got mine from my local auto parts store for ~$10.
Screwdrivers There's a million different options for these. My personal favorites are the Wera Kraftform screwdrivers they are super comfortable and they have a special non slip tip that is amazing. I don't want to use any other screwdriver ever after this. (They're on sale now too!! They're usually about ~$10 more than this. I almost want to get an other set just because)
Pliers These are great pliers at a good price. Keep them clean and they should last a long time. I'm very happy with mine.
I can't think of much more right now. You'll know when you need something else. This also depends on what kind of car you have. Jeeps for example, use a lot of torx fasteners so you'd need torx sockets for a lot of stuff. Just make sure you watch a lot of videos on how to do things and make sure you're comfortable doing whatever it is you're doing. The last thing you want to do is damage you or your car.
I remember taking the factory oil filter off my GFs Ninja 300. Note that I have been changing oil on my bike and cars for a looong time. The filter was so tight I couldn't remove it using anything. Here is what I suggest:
And when you put on the fresh filter, make sure you lube the o-ring with oil and do not over-tighten!
saves me some bbq'd hands
If you are in the states then absolutely not, just because it has a nice front end doesn't add $3k worth of value, a car with engine problems assume you'll have to replace the engine and if you don't then woo! But knowing ka's the overheating issue is going to be air in the system and I say that with like 85% certainty, jack up the front of the car and blast the heater as you shake it and squeeze hoses to get all of the air bubbles out, this might even be a good idea if you are going to own a 240 and do your own work. If really helps when bleeding coolant, I use one often at the shop I work at.
Lisle 24680 Spill-Free Funnel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A6AS6LY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_OBLLxbQ4KG5RJ
The easiest way is to just break down and pay for a Lisle funnel. They make the whole process incredibly easy and they're worth every penny. I spent a day or two dicking around with bubbles and squeezing and revving and all that and THEN bought the damn funnel. Or ask if a friend has one. It took 20 minutes to do and the system has been great for a few months now.
https://www.amazon.com/SK-Piece-Turbo-Socket-Removal/dp/B0009WRKX4
This works perfect for pulling those stupid wheel locks off. Pound it on with a hammer then crank it loose. If your not comfortable with that your dealership should have a master set that they can remove it with or a tire shop/dealer should have that socket set to force them off
this is another one of those inexpensive useful gadgets that gets used a lot in a shop:
https://www.matcotools.com/catalog/product/LSC4487/universal-lift-support-clamp/
So is this:
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-41250-Push-Pin-Pliers/dp/B00EARCXXG/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1494551818&sr=1-2&keywords=body+clip+pliers
And this:
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24610-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B001A4EAV0
Yeah. I did a top-fill using a nifty tool from Amazon. I drained using the exterior metal plug and let it stop. Then removed the inner plastic tube and let it drain all the way out. While that was goin I removed the battery and intake box, removed the filter and cleaned the inner threads as well as the filter housing. Applied clean fluid around the new seal and replaced in the channel it sits in. I then replaced the inner tube drain plug and stuck my funnel and tube tool directly into the hole where the filter rests and filled 1L at a time. Then replaced the exterior drain plug hand-tight and let the transmission get up to temperature. Car was fairly hot from driving earlier in the day still so it was pretty quick to drain and get back up to temp. Let it run and then removed the metal plug to drain excess and then torqued it back in with the fresh washer. Easy peasy!
The tool: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EH4V0Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xVzKBbGV45VK5
I dunno, I'm a big funnel fan. Makes life so much easier! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EH4V0Y/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_ILMKub0822GJN
04152-YZZA6
Amazon sells five packs. http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyota-Prius-Filter-04152-YZZA6/dp/B007OW6JEI
Also, if you haven't done it yet, you'll want the ASSTOY 640 too.
http://www.amazon.com/Assenmacher-Specialty-Tools-TOY-640/dp/B0015PK3AG/ref=pd_sim_auto_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=1MXQBK1ZKTZSDZ4407XX
You have an air bubble in the head, so the temp sensor is largely reading the temperature of the much cooler air.
It's tricky to bleed a miata cooling loop fully, if the car is relatively level water pressure won't ever push air out and you'll have an air pocket that never moves. Raising the front end as much as possible helps, otherwise you can get a fill bucket like this.
https://www.amazon.com/EPAuto-Radiator-Coolant-Filling-Funnel/dp/B01I40ZQWE
You should also run the car with the cap off till the thermostat opens, then top it off and cap it off. If you just fill it up and cap it off it is certainly half full of air and might not even have enough coolant to actuate the thermostat.
This video is also super useful if you have a ton of air in the system. For example, after a radiator or hose replacement. I use a spill-free funnel when using this method to avoid the mess that comes from pulling the funnel off the radiator when finished. https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24610-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B001A4EAV0
Its not worth an engine to try and duct tape it, sounds like you need a better tool for getting it off.
Most parts stores carry these and they work well. Just make sure you get the right size range for your car.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-63600-Oil-Filter-Tool/dp/B0002SR4Q8
Honda, in the 80s and 90s, had a reputation for making strange automatic transmissions.
They are heavily based on their manual gearboxes, but they are mated to a torque converter instead of a clutch, and an automatic shifting assembly which can up and downshift fairly quickly. The result made for an efficient, lightweight and small gearbox. The drawback was that it needed to be maintained differently.
This gearbox has special clutches inside of it which requires a type of fluid the only Honda makes, as cars aged their owners would either a) not know how to maintain the car properly or b) do the fluid changes at the right intervals, using a "universal" aftermarket fluid (Valvoline, Mobil 1, STP, Castrol).
Trouble with this is, using the wrong fluid at the right intervals was worse for the gearbox than not changing the fluid at all.
Honda's suggested service interval was 60K for the first one, then every 30K subsequently after that, and they only require a simple 3 quart drain and refill, so the service was fairly cheap ~$50.
The reason for the frequent fluid changes was due to the transmission having no filter, this saved materials costs to the consumer and labor for that matter, but it meant the fluid needed to be changed twice as frequently.
When I acquired my 2005 Honda civic, with its very similar 4 speed automatic to yours, it too was shifting hard up and down, it wasn't terrible but it wasn't right, the hotter the gearbox got the worse the shifts would be.
Heres what I did, and what you should do;
If you do this process, and the shifting situation stays the stay, or gets worse, than the gearbox needs a rebuild due to failing clutches.
a Throttle position sensor or any other sensor for the ECU to figure out how hard you are pushing the engine would throw a check engine light, is the check engine light on? If it isn't I would start with the fluid service, I am going to hazard a guess you have never done it in the past.
I want one now..
http://www.harborfreight.com/universal-3-jaw-adjustable-oil-filter-wrench-69021.html
or this thing:
http://www.amazon.com/Worlds-Best-Universal-Filter-Wrench/dp/B000UD0CTQ
Ok, I didn't force the thermostat, it just fit nicely. If I squeeze the bottom hose I can see the fluid rise in the radiator (when the cap it off), so I don't think there's any obstructions.
I will invest in the funnel, That'll be my next step. http://www.amazon.ca/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY without checking my local shop.
The radiator was bad, it was leaking tons (smoke coming from the engine). It overheated but not horribly the gauge didn't get too high.
I'll try the funnel and if that doesn't work then we'll see.
I really appreciate the help! If you live in Winnipeg i'll buy you a beer!
Top off the coolant and idle the car with the radiator cap off until you don't see any bubbles floating up. You can rev the car to 3000rpm for about a minute to push any stubborn bubbles out. Also squeeze the radiator hose, sometimes there can be bubbles trapped there.
If you maintain more than a couple of cars, it's nice to have this funnel: https://smile.amazon.com/Lisle-24610-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B001A4EAV0
I bought one of these and it's an absolute joy: http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-63600-Oil-Filter-Tool/dp/B0002SR4Q8
Makes the oil changes on my '06 STI and my wife's '07 Forester a breeze. Granted, you can't use the wrench to put the new filters on but at least you won't burn yourself trying to take them off.
You said that you've replaced the radiator at least one year ago...then the thermostat and a few components. Did you do the work yourself, help, or mechanic? The reason I ask is because anytime the cooling system has ANY kind of work done, you will need to fetch your 8mm hex or allen wrench to bleed the system (since probably someone forgot to do it) like in this picture.
Find some youtube videos on how to bleed your cooling system first (youtube search jeep liberty coolant bleeding or something), then come back and let us know. Most people that bleed their system generally just open BUT leave their radiator cap on (so water doesn't spill all over as much) and let it air out as much as possible (preferable once the thermostat is open). You can also buy one of these funnels to attach and add coolant as you're bleeding the system. I would also check the radiator cap to make sure it's within specifications and not worn out (drawing in air due to a leaky radiator cap or any kind of air in the cooling system can and will cause overheating). If you don't know how to do this type of work (which shouldn't take too long or much, find someone that can help).
I wouldn't replace the Jeep just yet. Don't just start replacing expensive parts in the cooling system (just start from smallest and gradually work your way on to the other things).
Every mechanic I know uses one of these or something similar for hard to get at fill ports.
Secondly, I think cross contamination would be a huge issue.
BUT, for $10, i'd try it. Seems awfully cheap for a diaphragm pump. Not even Harbor Freight can sell one that cheap.
> Keep in mind you need the special 64mm oil filter ratchet head to change the filter.
I use one of these universal type wrenches...
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko®-03421A-Adjustable-Filter-Adapter/dp/B000UD0CTQ
A few things from HF that I own and would recommend. Jack Stands, jack, breaker bar, 1/4'' ratchet, 3/8'' ratchet, 1/2'' ratchet, 3/8'' locking extensions, 1/2'' locking extensions, screwdrivers. Some other things I would recommend, Lisle oil filter wrench, Lisle oil pan. I would look on Ebay for used Craftsman sockets sets and combination wrenches. That should be enough to get you started. You can upgrade and expand from there as you see fit.
And Don't forget the HF coupons ;)
SK makes this kit that I've had decent luck with. Honestly I'd just get some replacements and run by any tire store to have them swap them out. They'll already have everything they need and lots of experience getting them off.
If you have to work on it later, these are a life saver if you don't have one already. Make sure to make the fill point is the highest point while you do it. Ramps are all you usually need to do that.
So I’ll address the “issues” that I’m familiar with. I have a 16 and a 19 SR5 Tundra.
The mic problem, I’m not so sure about. I’d honestly recommend just replacing the head unit. The factory radios suck and are glitchy. If you’re not comfortable doing it, they’re not that pricy to have professionally installed.
The fluids and 8 quarts of oil checks. It’s almost 100 bucks to do it yourself and I highly recommend getting the oil filter tool from Motivx to save on some frustration. (Motivx Tools Oil Filter Wrench for Toyota, Lexus, and Scion 2.0 To 5.7 Liter Engines with 64mm Cartridge Style Oil Filter System - Perfect for Camry, RAV4, Tacoma, Highlander, Sienna, Tundra, and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XTAGHU0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DseuDb475B820)
The exhaust, yeah they sound incredible with an exhaust. They are true dual from the factory with headers (not manifolds) until the outlet on the factory muffler. I took all of that off and welded in a RacePro muffler by Pypes (dual inlet and dual outlet) and then just threw some 90 degree pre-bent piping and routed it out the side, behind the step and in front of the passenger rear tire. Sounds mean and looks amazing.
The motors are bulletproof to include the 5.7, just keep fresh oil in them. I do every 5k miles with 10k mike oil from mobil1 exclusively and they’ll keep on running.
The brake controller Primus IQ is incredible and super quick and easy to install. I highly recommend that one as I have it in both of mine.
The oil pressure indications you’re describing are 100% normal. When you cold start the truck the oil is “cold” (not that it’s ever cold in Texas) so the oil is more viscous. Therefore when you hit the gas, the pressure increases due to the oil not being able to flow as easily as it can when it’s warmed up. This is normal and to be expected. Once it’s warmed up, the oil can flow easier which will cause less deflection of the pressure gauge, naturally. This is also why they recommend warming the engine up before an oil change so as to allow it to drain easier and you’ll get more oil out of the motor this way.
Hope this helps and welcome to the club!
Get one of these.
Also, if I find out that you used a filter wrench to tighten the filter, I will find you and I will beat you with a tire iron.
Oh good lord, you just brought back some terrible memories. Long story short (literally, 18 hours, including a much needed alcohol break), I'll never do another oil change without one of these.
Very easy, no need for fancy tools but you do need a few basics:
Something like these:
http://www.amazon.com/Blitz-11903-Rhino-Ramp-8000/dp/B000AMMN9O
http://www.amazon.com/Blitz-11838-Oil-Drain-Pan/dp/B000AMGYNA/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1313509663&sr=1-2
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-63250-Range-Filter-Wrench/dp/B0002SR4PY/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1313509691&sr=1-2
Before you start, you ought to take a look under the car to make sure the oil filter is easy to access. A PITA oil filter makes the job a lot harder. Read this on how to safely jack your car and look underneath it: http://autorepair.about.com/od/safetyfirst/qt/jack_safety.htm
Assuming everything is A-OK: http://autorepair.about.com/od/regularmaintenance/ss/oil_change.htm
Save the empty oil jugs and pour the used motor oil from the drain pan into the jugs (I like the gallon sized jugs for that reason). Go to Autozone or a simliar location, they'll offer free oil recycling.
The oil change itself usually only takes about 10 minutes, it's usually right next to effortless, and you'll know that some jiffy-lube place didn't rip you off ;)
Oh, and the first couple times, they're serious about 3/4 of a turn on the filter, and only a medium-effort hand tight: too tight and it's going to be impossible to get off later. I don't pre-fill the filter with oil. After you've filled it up, I usually run the car for a minute or two on the jack stands to make sure I don't have any leaks. If everything looks good, back it off the ramps, turn it off and check the level after a few minutes (to let the oil drain down into the sump). If everything looks A-OK, remember to check under the car for leaks wherever you park it for the next few days. The more often you do it, the less you'll have to worry, but occasionally things do go a little awry: I once didn't realize the old filter gasket didn't come off with the old filter, so I had two filter gaskets on. One of them gave way once the temperature and pressure got high, made quite a mess. Also, had a stone or something put a tiny dent in my oil filter can, that eventually turned into a pinhole, that eventually turned into a steady spray. Luckily it was in a vehicle with an oil pressure gauge and I noticed my pressure slowly dropping and was able to drive somewhere I could work on it.
Good luck!
It’s only $20 and it’s needed. Either your local auto parts store will have it or you can buy it here.
https://www.amazon.com/EPAuto-Radiator-Coolant-Filling-Funnel/dp/B01I40ZQWE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?adgrpid=58764058049&gclid=CjwKCAjwkenqBRBgEiwA-bZVtoEqNRMEjUMWBL3GbW3-C_nYD-uuJ0ZfgihAUCwsOXsoV5PrcRgX8hoCOrYQAvD_BwE&hvadid=274667037306&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9027658&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=2507075615956579707&hvtargid=aud-647006051489%3Akwd-310149416043&hydadcr=25614_9900508&keywords=burp+funnel&qid=1566234999&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzMEVTS0dXSFRLT0FXJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzA4OTIzMUFTSDUwNVJaSFY1NyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNTAxMzU4WlgzTEZZMFEwVDFCJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfcGhvbmVfc2VhcmNoX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
Even if your car comes with a bleeder valve I highly recommend using the method in the video with a burp funnel.
Well, I'd say everyone has done a fine job at covering the personal type advice. Lot of great advice on how to succeed and advance. I'm more of a hardware guy, so lets talk tools.
I love tools and so do you, whether you know it yet or not. The shop I worked at only had 3 mechanics plus a counter guy. Obviously we didn't have lube techs, tire techs, mechanical techs, etc... we just took whatever came in, in whatever order it came in. So even split between lube and repairs by a huge margin, my most valuable tool was my cart
My bay was always neater, and I was always faster because I had my red cart with all the tools I needed for lube and tire jobs super organized on it. So for oil changes and tire rotations I didn't even go to my toolbox, I just pushed my cart over and got it done. For any other work, I just went one time to my toolbox, got everything I would need for a job, put it on the cart with my lube tools, then take it all in one trip.
As long as you
you will never lose a tool.
On my cart, I screwed down a magnetic strip on the top shelf, and kept the 3/8" drive sockets for common oil pan plugs on one end, and the impact sockets for common lug nuts on the other. Also on top I had a Philips and flathead screwdriver, a 3/8" ratchet, a few different length extensions, a 1/4" ratchet with a 10mm attached, a flashlight, a tire gauge, my filter wrench, a super-cheap code reader, and one of these. It looks silly, and sounds stupid, and your coworkers will laugh at it, but your hands stay so much cleaner.
On the middle shelf, I had a massive pile of clean grease rags, and a 1/2 gallon pump bottle of hand scrub.
On the bottom shelf was a small cardboard box to throw dirty rags in until I had a chance to dump them in the can, my impact gun, a couple impact extensions, and a tire inflator.
Hanging on the side I had two sets of rubber-coated gloves. One "dirty" and one "clean". One set was for wearing outside the car to keep shit off my hands. The other set was to put on when I needed to touch something inside the car, to keep the shit that did get on my hands, off the upholstery.
Among the thousands of dollars of tools in my 7 foot high tool chest, what I've described above probably accounts for 75% of my daily tool usage, and more like 99% of my oil/tire job tool usage. Set yourself up like that, and don't even worry about a tool bag.
This will help you out. I put a new radiator in my Pilot about a month ago and this thing made burping the system much easier. This was my first time doing radiator work and burping a coolant system; based on advice here and other sources online I decided to buy the lisle funnel.
https://www.amazon.com/Innovative-Products-America-7899-Filter/dp/B000M9OL5O
These filter pliers make short work of filters like that.
These are extremely helpful, and work great
Also for flushing and bleeding the coolant you can use one of those funnel kits to expedite the bleeding process. Just use it combination with the two bleeder valves up front.
Make sure to fill up the reservoir tank before the engine is at operating temp, this will prevent air from getting sucked back into the system as the coolant cools and contracts. The coolant cap in your picture is hooked up right.
I would also recommend taking the res tank out and cleaning it out, the debris in the bottom gets sucked back into the engine as it cools. It's pretty easy to take out, lift the bottom outwards and it should pull up.
Definitely bleed the coolant then. I use one of these to help the bleeding process:
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY
That lets you overfill the reservoir and get coolant higher than the bleed port so you can bleed the system without having the engine running. You have to suck excess coolant out of the reservoir with a turkey baster after you finish bleeding it, but it's so much better than trying to bleed the system the old way.
Also, remember to have the heater on full when bleeding coolant or you won't get bubbles out of the heater core.
Grab one of These and burp the radiator.
The Lisle filter Tool--Amazon makes changing Subaru filters a piece of cake.
If you can justify having a $30 funnel, this thing can be a real time saver. It lets the air bubble out as you fill the radiator, so there's no need to burp afterwards.
These work well for exact measurements. What burgerrking said is easier though.
This is what I bought
Plews 75-068 Super Funnel - 2 Quart Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000G7AJUS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_r76oBMvDeqgp5
I just have to be careful going in around limbs and branches but it is 100% easier now.
Other option could be cutting a trap door style hole in the side.
I'm pretty sure battery water is distilled. Most super markets have distilled water.
Also most parts stores have pre mixed coolant that has distilled water.
You want coolant in your reservoir, that way when your coolant expands as it heats it will go in there, and when it cools down it will syphon back in. It's also kind of back up coolant, if you get a leak it get topped off by the stuff if the reservoir.
The way I do a coolant flush at work if it really needs it:
I drain the coolant, I remove both heater hoses, I hook a hose the the heater core and flush it one way, then the other, reinstall the heater hoses, I fill it back up with regular water and coolant flush, I run it until it gets hot, drain it, and fill it back up with coolant.
I use one of these when bleeding the cooling system:
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY
If you want to get really fancy you can vacuum fill, but that's more of a professional tool, really only worth buying if you work on cars a lot. Here's the one I have: https://www.amazon.com/UView-550000-Airlift-Cooling-Checker/dp/B0002SRH5G
You hook compressed air to the system and it sucks all the air out, then you close the valve and hook it to a hose that goes to a container full of coolant and it sucks it back in, gets rid of all the air pockets and checks for leaks at the same time, so it's really handy if you're in a hurry trying to make money.
For brake fluid, use this tool
For coolant and trans, you can drain it into a drain pan.
To refill the coolant, you can use this tool
​
Maintenance on Toyota vehicles is easy. If you are buying a truck, you'll have to remove skid plates to get to the oil filter and oil drain plug in most cases. Make sure you have 10, 12, 14, 17, 19, and 21 mm tools. You'll need one of these to change the oil filter.
did you only bypass the core? so shouldn't turning the heater on still switch open the piping that would normally lead to the heater core?
at any rate I recommend a radiator fill kit like this: https://www.amazon.com/EPAuto-Radiator-Coolant-Filling-Funnel/dp/B01I40ZQWE then you just set it up and run the engine until it warms up (heater switch at least turned on a bit to open it) and this allows your coolant to be higher than the rest of the system which forces air out.
Pull it from the top. Pretty straightforward. Plenty of youtube vids to give you some pointers. Make sure to get all the air out of the system when refilling. If you're planning on keeping this or any other Jeep do yourself a favor and get one of these to make the refill process foolproof. Cheap online or can be had for a couple bucks more at Wally World or any parts store.
$20 for an obscure tool seems like a fair price to me. A name-brand Toyota oil filter cap wrench costs about that and there are millions of cars driving around that need it.
I'm going to save you a HUGE headache with that engine and bleeding the air out of the system.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY
Those engines are a huge pain in the ass to bleed the air out because of that damn bypass pipe. The one thats leaking in the video. The bypass bleeder is going to be your biggest issue.
This funnel will let you keep the highest point above the engine, It will also let the coolant flow up and down without spilling anything. it just makes the job much much easier.
Instead of using those filter wrenches, just get a universal filter wrench. One like this: https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-53500-Satndard-Swivel-Filter/dp/B0002SR4AO
You can find one like this at any autoparts store or even Walmart. It is inexpensive and as long as the oil filter is accessible with this kind of tool you'll get it off no problem. When you put the new oil filter on, take a little used oil out of the pan and spread it over the gasket of the new filter, then just hand tighten the filter. Don't go overboard with the hand tightening either, don't make it uncomfortable for yourself, but make sure it is snug. The gasket will expand when the car warms up and create a good seal.
Now if you don't want to go get a new tool, you can take your filter wrench that you have now and try to line it up over the top of the filter then take a rubber mallet, or anything blunt, and tap it until it is snug on the filter.
A couple of tips from someone who likes to change their own oil and has made some mistakes along the way:
just don't put the cap on. I only run it for a couple minutes and flush it several times until it runs clear.
I also use one of these. Once the radiator is full, fill it halfway and leave it running for 20-30 squeezing the hoses periodically, then shut it off and let it suck more coolant in as it cools down.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY
No, I just used the regular housing gasket.
Oh yeah, I had a tough time bleeding my car for some reason. I ended up using this tool to bleed it. If you have access to an air compressor, this or this cheaper one would work better. With the funnel, there's no BMW adapter, so I had to make one out of an old cap by drilling a hole with step bit.
That will work, but the trick I've found is to fill it from the upper tank with the cap on the radiator removed. Once the radiator is full, throw that cap back on and continue as you recommended. Also, a no-spill funnel can make life a lot easier.
This is the way to do it if you don't have one of the Spill-Free Funnels.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY
If you do decide to go through the painstaking punishment of being patient and get one your life will be substantially easier bleeding the system. You don't even have to open the bleeder screw.However, jacking up the front end also makes this method substantially more efficient. Also, squeezing the lower radiator hose can also help.
https://www.amazon.com/Plews-75-068-Super-Funnel-Capacity/dp/B000G7AJUS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1502670194&sr=8-2&keywords=transmission+funnel
This is what I use Cap Style Oil Filter Socket Wrench 65mm 14 Flutes, Toyota, Honda ,Lexus https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H8K1BJE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_C6UXzbSJVA8F6
Notes: while you're doing the funnel method, the fluid may start to boil and and quickly rise causing it to over flow. Always keep an eye on this. Immediately turn off your car and wait about 30 mins and continue.
Also, your bleeder valve is just a plastic screw that can easily get stripped with all of the opening and closing. Make sure your screw driver is an exact fit. Also, it helps to support it from the bottom when pushing down to open or close it. Wear gloves.
If you can, raise the front end of the car on ramps or something. It helps the air move.
Burp it better. Borrow a bleed kit, lots of mechanics seem to skip over using them because they seem to think they are unnecessary, but I hear lots of stories about comebacks due to trapped air.
Better to know it's really bled out rather than screw up a new head job on the first hill you run into.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24610-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B001A4EAV0 something like that
You probably need to jack up the front end too.
Do you have a finger-style oil-filter cup wrench?
Preferably this one:
https://smile.amazon.com/Lisle-63600-Oil-Filter-Tool/dp/B0002SR4Q8?sa-no-redirect=1
I like these
No dice on something like this? http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002SR4AO/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1397441520&sr=1-2&pi=SX200_QL40
Dude just buy this and a 24mm socket for it...
When I worked at a quicklube we used (these)[ http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002SR4Q8/ref=pd_aw_sbs_2?pi=SL500_SY115&simLd=1] to get off even filters from the factory even (first oil change ones, but they torque them on the assembly line) the worst I ever had, I put a rag under the tool, got a long extension to get some space, and then put a wrench on the back of the breaker bar. It crushed the filter completely but came off
The one I use has 3 slots on both sides. The one you pictures has 3 slots on one side but only one slot on the other side. Mine is a 2010. This is the one I use. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00Y5JWW1W/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_inactive_ship_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hmm, even on sale the M1 6x1qt boxes at my costco are often more expensive per qt than the 5qt jugs at my local walmart. Also you'll want a removal tool for the oil filter cap, it's this style. Maybe your IS350 uses the same type?
Do it yourself it's very easy. And will only cost you a few bucks in tools. The dealer used the method "bottom fill" with vag com and using the plastic fill plug to gauge the temperature and amount put in. Obviously vag com and the dealer tool are expensive. So I offer the "top fill" approach. You buy this funnel
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000EH4V0Y/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Then buy this service kit.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006CN9FNM/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Leave car overnight so new dsg oil is same temp as old oil in the dsg.
Drain it. Then measure how much came out. Will help drain speed if you remove filter and second drain plug.
Put in drain plugs. Then use funnel to hookup to filter hole and put the same amount of what came out back in.
Put new filter on. As well as battery and air intake as those should be removed as well. Battery doesn't have to come out but makes it much easier.
Turn car on. And with brake on go through all the gears about 5 times. Just moving the lever down then back up 3 times. You will have all kinds of lights on ur dash this is normal. Just drive about 20 ft they'll go away. Relearn pinch protection on Windows.
Explained here.
https://youtu.be/Ink6ZpYqPQk
Note they doing bottom fill method.
Here is a video on top fill but he does use vag com and drain plug method which shouldn't be done without vag com.
https://youtu.be/nhE19GCXlvA
Edit: Wanted to mention it might take up to 4 hours your first time but after that it takes about a couple hours and most of it is just waiting for the oil to go down the funnel.
Edit 2: my stealer quoted me $508. An honest indie should be able to do it for around $350.
Some type of oil filter wrench (for cars) should do the trick, there are many different types out there.
After looking through your pictues again,
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000UD0CTQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1427821476&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SY200_QL40&keywords=oil+filter+wrench&dpPl=1&dpID=41WDAhTpWiL&ref=plSrch this is probably your best bet.
Also, http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002SR4Q8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1427821476&sr=8-1&keywords=oil+filter+wrench&dpPl=1&dpID=41gd0o9Ph8L&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SY200_QL40
You can get red coolant from rock auto Aisin brand. It’s about $17/gal once you factor in shipping.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,2000,land+cruiser,4.7l+v8,1364688,cooling+system,coolant+/+antifreeze,11393
Get a radiator funnel too: https://www.amazon.com/EPAuto-Radiator-Coolant-Filling-Funnel/dp/B01I40ZQWE/ref=sr_1_2?crid=O3EOMER7NC1J&keywords=radiator+funnel+fill+kit&qid=1562897989&s=gateway&sprefix=radiator+fu%2Caps%2C164&sr=8-2
Be 100% sure there are no bubbles. I also worked on my car in the garage. Flushed twice, filled, overheated, bought burping kit and haven't overheated since.
Lisle 24610 Spill-Free Funnel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001A4EAV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HGbYxb7B0MGKA
A lot of brands don't have a clear section. I have one of these: Amazon, Measure Funnel
You need one of these
Lisle 63600 Oil Filter Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SR4Q8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4lqrDb20FBPSQ
That funnel that he's talking about is a game changer. https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1510067876&sr=8-4&keywords=coolant+funnel
When I burped the coolant in my XJ after replacing my radiator and t-stat all I did was fill it up til the radiator was full + some in the funnel itself (it won't spill if you have the correct adapter and cap on the neck), then I started it and watched it semi close for a couple minutes to make sure it didn't suck all the coolant out of the funnel, then I just let it run for like 30 minutes while I cleaned up all the tools and mess from changing the radiator. I would just glance at the funnel once every few minutes or so to make sure it hadn't sucked the funnel dry.
I've bled cooling systems with varying degrees of success without the spill proof funnel, but there almost always ends up being a huge puddle of coolant below the car and/or I never quite get all the air out of the system. That funnel makes it pretty much foolproof.
I use one of these (properly sized of course) on my motorcycle, it’s awesome.
Cap Style Oil Filter Socket Wrench 65mm 14 Flutes, Toyota, Honda ,Lexus https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H8K1BJE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_aPq.zbHCB2ZH6
If you need to bleed the system for some reason (when the car is cold) you can open the top coolant tank near the turbo, then start the engine and fill from there while the car is running with the heater on full, and it will self purge all the air out of the system. When no more bubbles are coming out you can cap it off then shut it down.
I use one of these http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24610-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B001A4EAV0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397505519&sr=8-1&keywords=no+spill+funnel and run a full heat cycle (all the way up to temp and then back to cold), but I change or am pulling the radiator frequently for various reasons.
Standard cautions apply: coolant gets very hot and if you don't know what you are doing you can seriously burn yourself. Just trying to add some helpful tips as a starting point if you need them in the future.
Have you bleed the cooling system? Try a Lisle coolant bleeder funnel.
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24610-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B001A4EAV0
If your heater doesn't work you have air in the system. Did you loosen the bleeder screw above the water pump in the heater hose to let all the air out? If it doesn't have that screw take the elbow hose loose above the pump(at it's highest point) and fill till coolant comes out. Then run engine letting the thermostat cycle a few times keeping it near full each time. I've found an engine burp funnel to be very handy on that engine. Running the engine low like that can blow a headgasket or crack a head, takes a while but...
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24610-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B001A4EAV0
I use this one:
EWK 64mm 14 Flutes Oil Filter Cap Wrench Housing Opener Tool for Toyota Scion Lexus Honda https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H8K1BJE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_tifltec2nW7je
This link is what I used when I first started changing my own oil:
https://paulstravelpictures.com/2012-2016-Toyota-Camry-2AR-FE-I4-Engine-Oil-Change-Guide/
I also highly recommending getting this type of filter wrench rather than a generic one from a parts store. The notches on the side make changing the filter much easier:
https://www.amazon.com/Motivx-Tools-Toyota-Filter-Engines/dp/B00XTAGHU0/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=motivx+oil+filter+wrench&qid=1563385504&s=gateway&sprefix=motive+x+&sr=8-3
If you want to add more frying to your cooking, you definitely need a strategy for reusing the oil a few times. I am all for adding homemade fried foods to a varied diet, because of the satiety produced.
I generally use about 2 quarts of oil for deep frying, given the number I am feeding and given that 2 quart containers of oil are standard. Use the oil, retaining the bottle. Get an automotive funnel ( mine is a larger, but I have had it for years and don't remember what it was for originally) line it with a coffee filter and let the cool oil strain back into the original container. Put a rubber band on the oil container each time you re-use that oil, so you can "at a glance" tell whether it is likely to be ideal for the next frying project. For beignets, you may want a fresh bottle. For onions rings, a 4 rubber band bottle may be a perfect way to end that oil's cupboard space. you discard the oil in the bottle when the time comes. You should always smell your oil - and maybe even preheat a little in a pan if you are unsure - to make sure it is still of the quality you want, but the visual hint helps me make my grocery list.
From someone who also does his changes living in an apartment: buy yourself an oil drain like this, it'll save you a lot of hassle and avoid a mess that your neighbours might not like.
Other than that, changing the oil literally consists of warming the car up a little, removing a single bolt from the oil pan underneath your car, and waiting for it to drain. Then you'll ideally replace the gasket that goes on that bolt for a new one, and replace the filter.
For your car(and most cars really), the oil filter will be a thing like these, usually accessible by hand in the engine bay. Don't know about the US, but here in Brazil you can buy oil and filters in any gas station. After you've drained all the oil, reach for the old filter and unscrew it out. Take the new filter and, before you screw it in, rub a bit of new oil on the rubber gasket of the new one. That'll both ensure a better seal, and that you'll be able to remove this filter by hand on the next change. Then screw the new filter on, finger tight is enough. No need to make it too tight, or like I said it'll be hell on the next change. If pulling your old filter out is hard, you'll know the person who did the job before either skipped oiling the gasket, or put it on too tight, or both.
After putting the new filter on, just fill it up to level with new oil of the correct specification. Your owner's manual will have the oil specs, as well as the ammount you'll need. You use the oil dipstick to check the level. Never over or underfill, and don't use a different spec oil, and your car will run without any problems.
Oh, then take that drain filled with old oil to the nearest gas station the next time you go for a gas fill, so they can dispose of the oil properly there.
It's not the cheapest option but 90% of the time these gator jaw pliers are THE best for tight oil filters, only limited by clearance issues on things like Chevy trucks or Subarus where the filter is right up against oil pan/exhaust or something like that. https://www.amazon.com/Innovative-Products-America-7899-Filter/dp/B000M9OL5O
My 2004 WJ I6 4.0L doesn't have a bleeder screw so I couldn't use one to bleed the system. I changed the water pump and I used one of those no-spill funnels to fill with coolant:
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487347580&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=no-spill+coolant+funnel
Made it a snap. I squeezed the upper coolant hose to burp out any air as I was running the car and didn't have any issues.
Also procedure - open drain plug at bottom of radiator, use pan to catch coolant, drain, close drain plug. The hoses are held on by little clamps that you usually squeeze with pliers then slide up the hose. Pull them off. Transfer hose clamps to new hoses, install, squeeze hose clamps and slide them to the ends.
Open radiator cap and poor coolant in until it's full. Use this procedure to bleed the system. A "burp kit" like this is what you'd want to be able to get all of the air out of the cooling system, otherwise your car WILL overheat and it can cause all sorts of terrible problems.
Post if you run into any problems.
The filter may be too destroyed to work but I been able to get any filter off with these:
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-63600-Oil-Filter-Tool/dp/B0002SR4Q8
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY
buy that.
fill rad and overflow tank with coolant until it shoots out of the bleeder valve. fill funnel with coolant. bring and hold throttle until rpm is around 2000. wait until the funnel gulps down all of the coolant. release the throttle, it'll burp some bubbles out of the funnel, and then use the plug to plug the funnel and empty it into the overflow. put caps back on. pat yourself on the back.
what gasket could air in the system blow? just curious as to what the reasoning behind that thought is.
If its the 2.4l, you're going to need either a socket, or an inch and a quarter wrench. You can find the wrench at a hardware store, or find the socket at an autoparts store, but watch out if they try to sell you a tall socket. Check it to see if it fits before you leave. With the oil filter being on top, you want to change the filter before you drain the oil believe it or not. Because its essentially upside down, the oil sits in the filter reservoir until you pull the filter out. The filter doesn't sit under or on the side of the motor like a conventional one. It's a black circular cap you can see on the right side from the top down.
If you just go to your preferred store, they'll help you out with your filter. I usually just go to Napa, since there's one down the street from me, and I use their oil, which is just Valvoline synthetic blend with a Napa sticker on it. You can find the amount of oil you need in the manual.
Remember to use jack stands!!
I agree with the other posts about using penetrating oil. Another you could try is to use an oil filter wrench like this. I use something almost identical with an extension, as the oil filter in my car is fairly buried. I find that it works much better than the wrap around kind. You could also try the generic method of increasing torque which is to use a ratchet with a longer handle.
If you're watering you're leaves too much, maybe try something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EH4V0Y/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_qiQKub1QYV9M3
I have broken 2 of these. I prefer the to use the one without the teeth and then use a claw for anything it doesn't fit on. Just a tip in case you were actually looking to buy one of these
Old school oil filter wrench?
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-53500-Satndard-Swivel-Filter/dp/B0002SR4AO
Possibly a section of a leather belt and the mother of all channel-lock pliers, a Lead lined pipe wrench.
I'm beginning to think this thing wants to be broken. There are nasty digging chain wrenches. At this point I might recommend some heat both for that gasket seal and behind the prop.
I have used this filter wrench on my 2014 prius:
https://www.amazon.com/Motivx-Tools-Filter-Wrench-Engines/dp/B00Y5JWW1W
with this 27mm socket:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NPPCH8
It has worked pretty well for the 2 oil changes that I have done on my prius. I learned on the first oil change to jack up the front of the car about as high as you can to keep the plastic panel out of the way, and have room for my big socket wrench on the oil filter casing.
I like this product or similar bleed funnel
You guys need the right tool. A good oil filter wrench makes a world of difference on an aluminum block. I do these filters every day, they tighten gradually with every heat cycle so it's normal for them to be insanely tight 6k miles later. In all my career at Subaru I've never seen anyone use a tool to tighten these filters, they are always done by hand.
Most auto parts stores should have them, most imports use the same size (Honda, Toyota, Nissan) Think I paid like $5 for one
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H8K1BJE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_tRbIzbN4E36YH
This Lisle Oil Filter Tool works well too. They also have a larger size for bigger filters.
For a casual user instead of Lisle can I save $10 by going with cheaper:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I40ZQWE/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0
I know its a little late but when I replaced my radiator everything I read recommending purchasing a Lisle funnel for burping the system. It worked like a charm - especially nice since it was the last step in a long afternoon. Also for the radiator: buy a pack of the black plastic clips for the plastic guards under the car (also on Amazon), no doubt you'll break a few and the Honda dealerships charge like $2 a piece.
Like someone else said below, buy a 1/2" breaker bar. You can ruin your ratchets putting too much torque on them. A 3/8" breaker is often really useful, too. I buy craftsman for a lot of this stuff - its pretty cheap but they will literally just hand you a new tool off the shelf if you come in with a broken one. Also, 4" and 6" extensions are really convenient.
Its not what you were asking but: find a Harbor Freight in your area. They are definitely cheap tools but you're not a pro - sometimes you just need to get the job done. I have an electric impact drill that has saved my ass a few times. I think I bought it for like $20. Plus a set of universal joints for 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" inch. Super cheap and very useful. Don't buy anything from there without a 20% off coupon (you can bring them up on your phone).
The 3400 should have brass air bleed screws at the waterpump and where the upper rad hose meets the engine. Be gentile as the heads will easily snap off. Also run the heat full blast the whole time and make sure the temp stay around half the gauge as these normally run a hair under half. Also they sell what is called a spill free funnel that replaces the rad cap. They are handy and worth the $30 or so they cost.
Edit: this...
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY
I'm thinking you could probably remove them with one of these without too much trouble.
Might not be worth the effort though, depends on the rims.
The thermostat location probably won't move much between model years especially if it's the same engine type. Either way, just watching a couple videos on replacing thermostats on ANY car will teach you enough to find yours - it's probably right at the end of the lower radiator hose.
Did I say "filter" ? Sorry, I meant "funnel". And no, you don't have to have one. You can effectively burp the car without it, the funnel just makes it much easier. . You definitely need to burp it well though, if you don't get all the air out you'll have cooling issues. Sure you can reuse the existing coolant, just be careful to trap it all in clean containers and keep it clean while you work.
But now, let's talk about your car for a bit as your Dad may be jumping to conclusions a bit. First of all, can you really carefully describe what the issues with your inside heat is ? Does air come out, but not the right temp? Or does no air come out ? Does the car take a really long time to warm up ? Or does it overheat ?
FYI the thermostat's job isn't to control a temperature of something like a house thermostat. It's basically an off/off valve that prevents coolant from circulating until the car has warmed up. Once the car has warmed up to operating temperature, the coolant hits a certain temperature, this prompts the thermostat to open up and let the coolant circulate which keeps the car at that temperature. It's not a thermostat like "set the inside air to warm".
Filter tool looks like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Motivx-Tools-Toyota-Filter-Engines/dp/B00XTAGHU0
Filter drain is a 3/8 square drive, but really it's optional.
There's not one right on the thermostat housing? Like I said the ones on the T/B are higher anyways so you'll get more of a complete bleed. But just slowly pull the one line off. It'll spray all over! It'll take like 3 seconds once the air is all at the top. Also a spill free funnel on the radiator will help tremendously. Lisle sells them pretty cheap. Lisle spill free funnel
Firstly, I agree with ramps over jacks for anything not requiring wheel removal.
Second, one of these adjustable oil filter tools have been my best friend. 1 tool any filter. They make a 2 finger and a 3 finger model. I have a 2 finger one as shown in the link, reviews show it has more "bite" than the 3 finger one
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SR4Q8?tag=vglnkc3018-20
Are you buying it pre-mixed? If not, be sure to get a gallon or two of distilled water from the grocery store to mix with the antifreeze. Otherwise, calcium and other minerals in tap water can (over time) increase wear on the engine and seals.
You can then reuse that water jug to store and transport some of the coolant. If you have an old milk jug or maybe some half gallon liquor bottles, that should be enough to hold it all. You could even buy a couple other water jugs and just pour them out. They're only like 88 cents each.
Also, don't forget to burp the air out of the coolant once you've refilled it. I know its extra money but one of the funnels makes the job a lot cleaner and easier. I'd consider buying one if I were you.
I got one of these things because occasionally my mom takes her car to a shop to have the oil changed instead of letting me do it. I destroyed one of those fiber+plastic filter wrenches trying to get the filter off. I'm convinced those bastards tighten that oil filter within an inch of its life.
If you get the right size, something like this never fails.
They make a funnel just for bleeding the coolant systems on vehicles. Ive always just filled it up, and turned it on till coolant starts flowing and cap the rad. Though it takes a warm up or two to get it back to normal. When i did it this last time with the funnel. It was burped in minutes, and working great. It also makes filling the coolant so much faster o.0
Link to funnel.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY
Replace the water pump and metal tube that comes off it. It's cheap and if the coolant is brown then the bearings have almost certainly been damaged.
Also, get one of these. It makes filling and burping so much easier.
replace the radiator cap.
use one of these to bleed your coolant next time.
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY
Also, these are fucking awesome.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00A6AS6LY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518280301&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=coolant+funnel&dpPl=1&dpID=41Ir3XgVIjL&ref=plSrch
Replace the .ca with you local countries code.
I use this one. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XTAGHU0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You'll need a different size for the Corolla. But the brand is solid.
DIY should be pretty easy, there are videos online. The kit is available on Rockauto.com for cheap ($86 shipped for me), too. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7668792&cc=1505266&jsn=390
You'll also want a Hopkins 10704 FloTool if you are doing the top fill method.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EH4V0Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I'm getting ready to do my MK7 at 35k miles.
So much easier just to use this tool https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01I40ZQWE/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1494689437&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=coolant+bleeder&dpPl=1&dpID=41IHCadLjXL&ref=plSrch
I used to jack the front of the car up to try to raise the radiator, but I bought a kit for filling cooling systems. Actually works pretty good
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01I40ZQWE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491394577&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=spill+proof+funnel&psc=1
The first time I did my oil change I took the filter cap off with a pair channel-locks. The next time, I bought the oil filter cap socket and it was much easier. I didn't know the size, I just bought it online, as it was just a light-duty one meant for oil filters. HERE is the one I got, it does show the size.
Good to know regular ramps may not work. I used my DIY ramps, which are real long with a gradual step, but kind of a pain to use.
The cap is just plastic, it shouldn't need to be cranked on hard at all, since it uses an o-ring for the seal.
Out of all the vehicles I've changed oil on, after having the socket, this is one of the easier ones. There are much worse out there.
Sorry, here's the link: http://www.amazon.com/Lumax-LX-1602-Black-Plastic-Funnel/product-reviews/B000MCZKIS/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_viewopt_srt?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1&sortBy=helpful&pageNumber=1
The plastic tank reservoir design on Honda's radiators are notorious for cracking, I had mine go out a few weeks ago on my RSX and I used this funnel to bleeding the cooling system, by far the fastest &easiest/safest way of doing it
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00A6AS6LY?cache=f8cbdecf2227ea49f0ef98ab3196eb68&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1414328386&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1
Video link on how to use:http://youtu.be/zUpXgAJ1gjU
You could also rent a pressure tester for ~$200 from autozone if you think you might have a leak somewhere
Buy one of these. They'll save your life. When the screwdriver trick just cuts the filter in half.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000UD0CTQ?pc_redir=1413366031&robot_redir=1
Top the cooling system off with a funnel in the radiator, make sure your heat is on the highest hot setting it'll go to and the blower motor off. Start the car and wait for the thermostat to open, if you have electric fans the fans should start as well. You can tell if the thermostat is open when the upper radiator hose gets hot. Wait for all of the bubbles to work their way out then turn the car off and replace whatever coolant was displaced or lost. Install the radiator cap. A spill free funnel makes this really easy. Here's a link: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00A6AS6LY/ref=redir_mdp_mobile/188-5456271-4723420
I bought an oil filter socket on amazon, didn't get the 15/16" socket since my giant crescent wrench fits the nut perfectly to get that filter off. I swear to the gods of car motors that I will never go to a Jiffy Lube ever again. I found out that they didn't replace my filter (I used a permanent marker to write the date and milage on the bottom of the filter where you can see it. I checked later that day and there it was still . I called up the shop and told them what I found. They offered a free oil change, naturally I declined)
To bleed the system just leave the cap off of the radiator and let the bubbles burp out at the engine is running. Make sure the heat is on and the blower motor is on high. They make a special funnel that you can use (Spill Free Funnel). It may be worth it to buy it or it may not. If you don't use it then put a big catch pan underneath the radiator opening.
Once you start to get good heat then you know most of the air is out of the system. Take it for a drive as long as all the gauges look good then let it sit and cool off. Check the coolant afterwards and away you go!
Its possible you may need to rev the engine up to get the bubbles out (like 2k or just quickly put it to wide open throttle and let it come back down).
If you don't see any bubbles coming out and you don't see any leaks on the ground, but you don't have heat you could try just driving it. Driving it may help push some more bubbles out.
You needed one of these!