Best oils & fluids according to redditors

We found 2,243 Reddit comments discussing the best oils & fluids. We ranked the 753 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Subcategories:

Oil & fluid additives
Body repair & restoration chemicals
Brake fluids
Flushes
Greases & Lubricants
Oils
Power steering fluids
Radiator conditioners & protectants
Refrigerators
Fluid sealers
Windshield washer fluids
Winter products

Top Reddit comments about Oils & Fluids:

u/MorningFrog · 99 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

I too had this issue, and completely fixed it with some electrical contact cleaner. Compressed air didn't work, I had to use this stuff. You lift up the rubber base of the sticks and spray this stuff in there on all the sides, wiggle around your sticks a bit to get it all around in there, let it dry for a an hour and then they'll be back to normal. I have to repeat this process every few months depending on how often depending on how much I'm using my switch, but it's super easy and takes very little time. I still have the same can of cleaner, and it seems like it has plenty left in it.

u/BillDino · 33 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

This has fixed mine https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BXOGNI

Found it from a switch mod bot post

u/IamaBlackKorean · 20 pointsr/AutoDetailing

I've gotten to using this: https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Honda-08798-9013-Silicone-Grease/dp/B00GD49GTS

Apply with terry cloth rag and wait a few, and wipe off. I have yet to replace any seals, including on a 2 decade old VW that's been parked outside in California sun.

u/thecyberbob · 18 pointsr/canada

Sort of. But you can also buy fuel stabilizer commonly used in the marine industry since when you haul your boat out for winter most people don't empty their tanks.

https://www.amazon.com/STA-BIL-22214-Fuel-Stabilizer-oz/dp/B000B68V6I For the curious.

u/Kariko83 · 17 pointsr/3Dprinting

If you enjoy tinkering then the Folger Tech i3 2020 is a pretty good printer and you can read my review of it here.

Get some Super Lube or other appropriate grease to pack the bearings with so that they don't fail on you like mine eventually did.

You will want to get a good set of metric hex keys as the vast majority of the screws are metric hex heads.

A soldering iron, 16g or better primary wire, and some solder are also a must as you will have to solder the leads to the heated bed so it can be connected to the RAMPS board.

Personally if I was to go back and build mine again I would toss the Mk2 heater PCB and use a Mk3 aluminum heated bed with a sheet of PEI on top from the start. It would have saved me both money and time troubleshooting both adhesion issues and the majorly warped heater PCB.

If you have any other questions don't hesitate to ask.

u/buggzzee · 15 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

CRC Brakleen is the best instant killer of Black Widow spiders money can buy

u/cjchris66 · 14 pointsr/Tools

You don't know what brakekleen is?
Edit: it's the best stuff in the world
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LDR9HI/ref=psdc_15718981_t1_B0002FU44K
You have to get the chlorinated stuff though, if it says non chlorinated don't waste your money.

u/2old2care · 14 pointsr/audiophile

It looks beautiful, obviously stored in good conditions. I'm not sure how it works, but my bet is it will take very little to get it going. The tubes are likely OK because these amplifiers are used very few hours compared to commercial equipment. The main thing to check is the filter capacitors. The other capacitors and resistors are likely OK if it's been stored in an air conditioned area. Also, changes in values of these will not cause damage when the unit is powered up. It will likely be necessary to clean all the controls and switches, too.

Having restored a lot of older equipment, here's what I would do before turning it on:

  1. With the unit out of the cabinet and disconnected from power, use an ohmmeter to be sure you don't have a short from the "hot" terminals of the four main electrolytic filter capacitors (the ones mounted on top of the chassis with the tubes) and chassis ground. With an analog ohmmeter, you should be able to reverse the test leads and see a "kick" when you first touch the terminal. Reverse again, kick again. This shows the capacitors are not "open". After a few seconds, the resistance should be above about 50K ohms. Also carefully inspect the unit for anything that may look burned or discolored. (If you don't have a high resistance or get the kick, you'll need to ohmmeter-test the capacitors individually. This means they will each have to be disconnected, and things get more complicated.)

  2. Carefully remove the tubes and plug them back in, one at a time. Be sure they are always in the same socket they came out of! It's a good idea to remove and replace each tube several times to remove oxidation. The sockets for these tubes are self-wiping so this action tends to clean the tube pins and restore solid connections. It's not a bad idea to wash the tubes carefully with dishwashing liquid, rinse them fully and let them completely dry. You could also wash the removable tube shields while you're at it. This will remove dust and help keep the tubes cool and potentially remove leakage paths that can cause electrical noise.

  3. If above seems OK, remove the rectifier tube (I think a 5U4 or 5R4--but it's the largest tube and the only one that starts with a 5). Be sure the fuse is OK (check with an ohmmeter), then plug it in and turn it on. You should see all the tube filaments and pilot light come on. This will confirm that the tubes and power transformer are likely OK. Be aware that from now on, there are LETHAL voltages in this amplifier! Treat it with respect! Don't touch anything inside when the power is on, and be wary that the filter capacitors can hold high voltages for a considerable length of time after the unit is turned off and unplugged.

  4. From here on, the question is, "How brave are you?" Before you power it on, connect a speaker to each of the output terminals - 4, 8, or 16 ohms as applicable. If in doubt, connect the speakers to the 8-ohm terminals. This is important because tube amplifiers always need a load, and because you can hear any hum or noise that may be present.

  5. If the previous tests passed, I'd be inclined to give it a full power-on check, but being ready to pull the plug quickly if needed. At this stage, the mostly likely thing to happen is a dramatic failure of a filter capacitor, usually in the form of some hissing noises and bad-smelling smoke. This will happen about 5 seconds after you plug in the power. If you pull the plug at the slightest hint of a problem, there won't be a lot of damage other than the capacitors that are already bad. If it's a really serious problem, the fuse on the back will probably blow at this point.

  6. If you don't want to do the smoke test as described, you can try bringing up the voltage to the amplifier gradually using a variac, starting at about 30-40 volts, gradually bringing it up to a normal 120 volts if there is no smoke or noise. This makes the smoke test slower and more controllable. A cheaper test is to wire a 60-watt light bulb in series with the AC power cord. When you switch on the power, the lamp should come up to near full brightness in a few of seconds, then get dimmer, then after about 15-30 seconds come up to to maybe half brightness. If that seems OK, set the input to PHONO and turn the volume all the way up. You should be able to hear at least some noise in the speakers. A quiet hiss is good, a low hum is ok. A loud hum is not OK. If you get a 120 Hz. hum, that's caused by bad filter capacitors and you'll need to replace them. If it's a 60-Hz hum, it may be something else and may go away with a proper input connected.

  7. If it passes the smoke test and doesn't blow the fuse, you're probably good to go with testing it with real audio sources. You should count on cleaning all the switches and controls with a good contact cleaner. It's also effective to pull outward on volume and tone controls as you rotate them from end to end a few times to clear away oxidation.

  8. It may or may not be worthwhile to "recap" the amp (replace all the capacitors). While this may help performance, it's equally possible that a working all-original unit that has not been modified in any way will have higher resale value. In my experience, it's best to replace as few parts as possible. In high quality equipment like this, component failures are actually pretty rare and the resistors and capacitors used were surprisingly stable.

    I recently refurbished a 14-tube receiver from 1964 and all it required was a good cleaning. Absolutely no tubes or capacitors were bad.

    Good luck with the project!!
u/DelphFox · 12 pointsr/LifeProTips

Amazon is what we're gonna do.

u/neuromonkey · 12 pointsr/photography

Thanks, useful to know specifically where the failure happened.

Anyone using gear like this: Use LockTite Threadlocker or something similar on all threaded parts meant to stay put!

u/Godly1n · 11 pointsr/Miata
u/NSA_Chatbot · 11 pointsr/tifu

Okay, it might still be fixable. Go get some "contact cleaner". This is the electronics stuff, not the stuff for your eyes. A local electronics store, or digikey in a pinch. Huh, amazon carries it, so there you go. This should do: http://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Electrical-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00CMT9TFY

Clean the board with the contact cleaner and a toothbrush (you'll throw it out later; a cheap one works awesome, flat style, not the ridgy ones with rubber). You'll have to get in and scrub the board a little, making sure you get all the goop out, especially around the chips.

Use common sense. You're getting rid of gummy residue, it won't require scrubbing until the bristles fall out.

Believe it or not, static with this cleaning method is usually not a problem; the wetness of the cleaner keeps your board protected.

Let dry, put back together, hope for the best.

If all else fails, pick up another one at a pawn shop. (I found my PS2 on the side of the road. Gave it to a GF who's now my ex, womp womp.)

Source for cleaning instructions: I'm an electrical engineer.

u/nuovo_donna · 10 pointsr/Autos
u/Arbelisk · 10 pointsr/consolerepair

Take the battery out. Get a toothbrush. Some of this stuff. https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05103-Electronic-Cleaner-11/dp/B000BXOGNI/ref=sr_1_2?crid=T9K663XMBYF5&dchild=1&keywords=crc+electronic+cleaner&qid=1575079801&sprefix=crc+ele%2Caps%2C128&sr=8-2

Scrub off the board and rinse with highest concentration of alcohol you can get. I use 91%. Repeat until it looks good. Replace the battery, because I'm sure that one is a gonner.

u/Szalkow · 10 pointsr/handguns

Howdy, new /r/HappyBuckmarkOwners member!

Some Buckmark pointers:

  • It cannot be field-stripped without Allen wrenches (3/32 for sight base, 7/64 for barrel). If you want to clean without disassembling, strongly consider getting a boresnake to clean. If you only have a cleaning rod, you can clean from the muzzle but must be very careful not to ding or scrape the crown around the muzzle, or you can just disassemble the thing.

  • Don't dryfire an empty Buckmark. The firing pin will carve a notch on the breech face.

  • #4 yellow drywall anchors make perfect snap caps for practice and dryfire. You can also use spent 22LR casings.

  • A drop of blue Loctite on your sight base screws will keep them from coming loose after reassembly.

    If you're feeling adventurous:

  • Consider removing the mag disconnect. Being unable to pull the trigger without a magazine is a worthless feature, and removing one simple spring fixes this and improves the feel of the trigger pull.

  • Consider performing the Heggis flip to reduce the weight of your trigger pull.

  • Be careful when removing the grips - they hold tension on a lot of small parts.
u/Virisenox_ · 10 pointsr/flashlight

My recommendation: Super Lube. It's cheap, and it will work on anything. With vaseline, the petroleum will damage certain types of o-rings. Astro-glide is just not designed for this type of application either.

Lots of people also really love Nyogel. Here's a good CPF thread about greases and lubes.

u/Clegko · 9 pointsr/projectcar

I actually meant purple. I use it for really small stuff, like RC cars and such. https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-555339-Purple-Strength-6-milliliter/dp/B0002KKTT0

u/AmateurSparky · 9 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Screw is probably close to stripped. Throw some Loctite on the threads and tighten it back up. The blue loctite is semi-permanent, meaning you can remove it in the future if you choose.

u/dmethvin · 9 pointsr/Miata

Ford XT-M5-QS Full Synthetic Manual Transmission Fluid
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NUES82/

Don't believe me? Read the reviews there.

u/deathsupafire · 9 pointsr/gifs

I've made these before. Use Heet. The stuff for cars. You can get it at any corner store. http://www.amazon.com/28201-Gas-Line-Antifreeze-Water-Remover/dp/B0016GXNC4.

Edit: Warning! Do NOT use Iso-Heet. Use the yellow bottle only

u/SchmidtOutaLuck · 9 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Spray this stuff under the flap and it fixed the drift: WD40 Company 300554 Specialist Contact Cleaner Spray - 11 oz. with Smart Straw https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AF0OFVU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_g27JDbR7VP0TY

u/umopapisdnwei · 8 pointsr/canada

Amazon.ca used to have it for $4.99... Maybe their supplier jacked up the prices.

Even at Canadian Tire, it's significantly higher than the US$2.65 price on Amazon.com.

u/Seabass18 · 8 pointsr/guns

I am a recent convert with a 9" SBR and 762 SDN6, I'll throw my hat in for super versatile esp if you are going to get a can like you said you are planning to.

Suppressed subsonic is much lighter recoiling than 223, you're talking about muzzle energy equivalent to 45 acp and the suppressor acts a as super quiet, very efficient muzzle break. My only complaint would be gas in the face via charging handle however I just spent 6$ on Black Silicone RTVand made a homemade gasbuster charging handle. I've yet to take it the range since but it should cut back on or eliminate gas blowback to the face.

300 Blk can be hard to come by locally but is readily available on the internet and once you have brass is easily reloadable.

u/vzwire · 8 pointsr/Miata

www.amazon.com/dp/B00GD49GTS/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_qLwRCbBF096K4

I played that game everyday for a year, until I discovered this on the interwebs.

u/nevermind4790 · 7 pointsr/vinyl

Sounds like you just need to Deoxit the volume pots in the KA-400 to get rid of the scratchy sound. I did the same thing in two of my vintage Harman Kardon receivers, and to pitch controls in two of my turntables. Deoxit is like audio magic, I kid you not!

u/Shrimptacular · 7 pointsr/SwitchHacks

The one I've seen mentioned the most is CRC.

You're going to have to go to r/NintendoSwitch or YouTube if you want more info because I haven't used it, but I did get a free official fix which I'll write about in this thread.

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05103-Electronic-Cleaner-11/dp/B000BXOGNI

https://www.walmart.com/ip/CRC-5103-Quick-Dry-Electronic-Cleaner-11-Wt-Oz/16817418

u/efpe3s · 7 pointsr/techsupportgore

If compressed air and a toothbrush don't work, you can hit it with a plastic safe solvent.

u/kenabi · 7 pointsr/hardware

white lithium grease.

ps; most gun oils are just normal machine oils with a couple of additives. alright for what they sell them as, but in this case you want something that will stick to the bits. WLG is the stuff they use on the moving bits of flight sticks from the factory, as well as stuff like the moving parts in any optical drive, some childrens toys where the lubrication will never be exposed to the light of day, etc.

something like this used sparingly, but with full coverage of the contact surfaces, will sort things out nicely.

cheers.

u/OhioJeeper · 7 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

CRC Brakleen Brake Parts Cleaner - Non-Flammable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LDR9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GlHrzbCJQDQZZ

Order it yourself, unless you live in CA or NJ, in which case this might be more useful.

u/britishwonder · 7 pointsr/Miata

I just did this in my NB for the second time and i think its the right advice.

The differntial i used Royal Purple 75W90 (i think, double check me on the weight here)
https://www.amazon.com/Royal-Purple-Performance-Synthetic-Automotive/dp/B0007QGT34

For the transmission i finally bit the bullet and put in Ford Motorcraft XT-M5-QS. This shit is made from unicorn tears as far as i know.
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Ford-XT-M5-QS-Synthetic-Transmission/dp/B000NUES82/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484008625&sr=8-1&keywords=ford+motorcraft+xt-m5-qs


Do 1 quart of royal purple for the diff, and 2 quarts of ford motorcraft for the tranny.
This stuff is really expensive. You'll spend about $75 for all of it. But i can honestly say this is the smoothest my car has been since i bought it. It's like shifting in a stick of butter.

Also if your tranny oil is super shitty i've heard it can be good to run some cheaper stuff through it first, drive around on it for a month or two, then drain it and put in the good stuff. I've never done a side by side comparison though so i can't say for sure if it's required or not.

u/MadaMadaDesu · 7 pointsr/flashlight

Superlube

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000XBH9HI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484767208&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=super+lube+synthetic+grease&dpPl=1&dpID=31-xhQ8JfAL&ref=plSrch

$5 a tube. Safe for incidental food contact. Should last you for years, unless you have like 500 lights or something.

Wipe off gunk on thread with microfiber cloth.
Apply a tiny dab.
Work it in by tightening and loosening a few times.
Wipe off excess.

u/jwheeler726 · 7 pointsr/synthesizers

Take knobs off fader

Get WD-40 electrical contact cleaner, spray it on a qtip and scrape the gunk out. You can use a bunch of this stuff and even directly blast it in the fader channel. It evaporates very quickly.

Then, get silicone grease on another qtip and use the tiniest amount to lube the fader. A little of this goes a long way. Too much and you’ll end up with more debris.


https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Electrical-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00AF0OFVU/


https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-92003-Lubricating-Translucent/dp/B0081JE0OO/

u/Desmocratic · 7 pointsr/cars

Good call on the seal grease, I use the Honda stuff on my BMW Z3 seals, you can buy it on Amazon:
[Honda Grease](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GD49GTS/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_reGiDb5BKM8D3 via @amazon)

u/GothamCountySheriff · 6 pointsr/vinyl

I don't have experience with your specific turntable, but on many turntables with a manual pitch control, the potentiometer(s) (aka "pots") will become dirty over time, which will lead to inconsistent voltage being pushed through them. You can clean the pots out by using an electronics cleaner (see below), followed by a lubricant. There may also be some small rheostats that are used to set the pitch range that have succumbed to the same problem. For both issues you will probably need to get at the underside of the turntable to effectively clean them. (Be sure to remove the platter and secure the tonearm before turning the turntable over to access the internals).

Should that not work, it may be that some of the capacitors have drifted from their values, or have failed completely.

Audiokarma.org cleaning guide (for receivers/amplifiers, but generally applies to all pot cleaning):
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=207005

I recommend Deoxit electronics cleaner followed by Deoxit fader lube. If you can't get that, then CRC QD Contact Cleaner (BLUE can NOT red can) and their lube work well. For reference:

http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-Deoxit-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU

http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-F5S-H6-CAIG-DeoxIT-Faderlube/dp/B00006LVF1

http://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-QD-11-oz-Contact-Cleaner-02130-6/202262505

http://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-2-26-5-oz-Multi-Purpose-Lubricant-02004/100398344

Oddly, for such a basic maintenance necessity, there aren't that many good cleaning videos, but this one for a guitar amp has good shots of where you need to get at the pots when cleaning them. You shouldn't need to use that much fluid when cleaning though.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0QvOepREO4k

u/mesaone · 6 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

better use a contact cleaner instead of lighter fluid. Costs about the same. Deoxit is a cleaner you can spray into the pot, twist the pot repeatedly, and then (optional) blow out with canned air. Works like a charm, it's made specifically for this purpose.

http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S-6-Deoxit-Contact-Cleaner/dp/tags-on-product/B00006LVEU

u/MattyDoodles · 6 pointsr/watercooling

I would suggest against red if OP ever wants to be able to open it up for any reason later.

Purple, low strength is all you need.

Loctite 555339 222 Purple Low Strength Thread Locker Tube, 6-milliliter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KKTT0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kthJBbJMXE9NM

u/OmniaMors · 6 pointsr/Firearms

time to trouble shoot!

did the metal bend? use a stiffer metal like steel if you used aluminum.

did the screws come loose? threads are naturally loose to allow for them to be screwed in, use a thread filler

did the screws actually bend? your shear stress is too high, increase the area the force is distributed over by using more screws.

Did any metal get scraped off at any point? Same idea as above, look to increase the surface area between any surfaces where material was used.

we can rebuilt it! WE HAVE THE TECHNOLOGY.

u/SticklessControllers · 6 pointsr/fightsticks

I’d also suggest getting some blue threadlocker . This stuff is great and really stops things from coming undone unless intentionally unscrewed. Make sure to avoid red threadlocker, as it’s way too good. The red stuff pretty much ensures that once it’s screwed on it will never come off. The blue is less permanent. Just apply a little bit to the threading and you’re good to go!

u/CSBreak · 6 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

try electronic cleaner worked for me and i just used the tiniest spray of it i could i think someone wrote a guide on here at some point

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05103-Electronic-Cleaner-11/dp/B000BXOGNI

u/mstevenson10009 · 6 pointsr/Multicopter
u/scirocco · 6 pointsr/legaladvice

edit: Not A Lawyer


 


 




This is absolutely the answer.



I suggest a Fernco seal rather than a wax ring. It is more secure and a tighter/better seal than oldschool wax rings.



A wax ring only gives you one shot to get a good seal. Once mushed it won't seal well. If the toilet moves, it may leak.



The Fernco has a powerful adhesive that sticks to the bottom of the toilet and the funnel extends a little bit into the pipe.




There are two sizes, 3" and 4".



To do an extra good job, use brake cleaner or Goof Off (not goo-gone or citrus) to strip all the wax residue from the toilet.



Make sure the toilet is well bolted down, doesn't rock.


 



Links: (no affiliate/interest)



https://www.amazon.com/Fernco-Inc-FTS-4-4-Inch-Toilet/dp/B000BVMZUG/


https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05089-BRAKLEEN-Brake-Cleaner/dp/B000LDR9HI/



https://www.amazon.com/Goof-Off-FG653-Professional-Strength/dp/B002MPPYYS/


https://www.amazon.com/LASCO-04-3645-6-Inch-4-Inch-Washers/dp/B000FH6GI8/





u/nexusheli · 6 pointsr/rccars

Standard WD-40 is not a lubricant. WD-40 displaces water and acts as a degreaser. It will work as a lubricant for a short period, but once it evaporates you'll have no lubrication.

The stuff you linked is a silicone lube that's simply under the WD-40 brand, it is not WD-40 in the traditional sense. As it's a spray, it's not the sort of lube you really want in a bearing; what you want is a really light silicone or lithium grease:

http://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-Synthetic-Syncolon-Lubricant/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421952488&sr=8-1&keywords=light+grease that stays inside the bearing.

u/Gh0stRAT · 6 pointsr/lockpicking

Don't use WD40 on locks. Powdered graphite should be available at your local hardware store.

Not sure whether or not it would help, just thought I should add what you should use instead of WD40 because CrankyTank did't elaborate.

u/Catgutt · 6 pointsr/airsoft

Here are a pair of WE Lugers, the left one havint stock externals aside from the painted grips which I detailed in an earlier post, and the right one showing the results of the method detailed in this post. As with many airsoft guns, the satin black finish on the left gun looks nothing like the real thing, and lets down what is otherwise a very convincing replica.

So, here's my method for fixing that cheap paintwork, without having to strip or repaint the entire gun, and without applying bluing chemicals to Chinese mystery metal (with unpredictable results). This technique also works equally well on plastic, and can make plastic guns look much more realistic.

You'll need the following:

-Powdered graphite. You can grind up a pencil in a pinch, but it's much easier to just get powdered graphite lubricant off the Internet or your local hardware store (check by the padlocks).

-A gentle cloth for buffing, and another for applying the graphite. I use rags made from a cut-up cotton T-shirt.

-Matte varnish. I use Testor's Dullcote, but anything matte will do. You can use satin or gloss varnish for a shinier look, but you will not be able to apply additional layers of graphite after sealing.

First, squirt some graphite into a bottlecap, dip your first cloth into it, and use it to rub the graphite into the surface of the gun. If you're working on a large, flat area, you can squirt the graphite directly onto the gun and use the cloth to spread it around. Work the graphite into the surface until it has a uniform tone. Avoid handling the parts with graphite, or it'll come off on your fingers.

Once the gun is fully coated in graphite, you need to seal it to prevent the graphite from rubbing off on your hands or running off with water. Give it a few quick passes with the matte varnish, enough for a solid coat without any patchy areas. You'll notice that this will tone down the shiny metallic effect to a dull grey, this is normal.

Now, you can either call it good, or add another layer of graphite to strengthen the color and shine. The more layers you add, the greyer the gun will get. For this Artillery Luger, I did a second layer of graphite, and then sealed again with varnish.

When you're satisfied with the color and have sealed it for the last time, take your second cloth and rub down all the surfaces you applied the graphite too. Give it a little bit of force and really polish it up. This buffs the matte finish up to a mild satin, giving it that shine that real bluing has and making it look closer to how it did before sealant. If you want it to really shine, you can do a quick shot of satin or gloss varnish too and polish that in. For the Artillery Luger, I just buffed it thoroughly with the rag.

That's all it takes- it's dead simple, with no real room for error, and produces a dramatic improvement in appearance.

Bonus: A Well Webley and AGM MG42, also refinished with this method.

u/[deleted] · 6 pointsr/cars

You should be able to buy a spray can of fabric/upholstery adhesive, spray it down and put it back in place. I've done that with the material on my Evo, holding up well 8 months later.

For the edge, use a credit card to tuck the material into the crevice.

u/aicss · 6 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

There was a post about this a couple of weeks back. People recommended this cleaner because it is safe for the plastic. Also if you look at the joycon carefully you will see a little plastic flap that can be lifted, you need to lift that flap and spray the cleaner under it. So far since using the spray linked above I haven't had an issue, however I really haven't been playing my switch enough since to properly test (sekiro is taking all my time).

u/tbritoamorim · 6 pointsr/NintendoSwitch
u/bongklute · 5 pointsr/vintageaudio

Deoxit is the first step.

Access the backsides of the volume knobs and switches, and clean them with the Deoxit. I can guarantee that this will improve the situation.

u/Stone-Bear · 5 pointsr/3Dprinting

Hey guys,

You may have seen this post on /r/overwatch yesterday. I 3D printed this mask on my Monoprice Maker Select.

Used PLA, and basic settings in Cura (200/50 temp).

This is my recommended guide to finishing a 3D printed Prop for any one curious:

Rustoleum Filler Primer - Do 2 or 3 layers of this. Maybe more, you'll know if you need a layer or more. Do some sanding between layers.

I hate regular bondo, so I use Bondo Spot putty, this is what I used to fix everything else. Round out edges, add detail, and to smooth out. Lots and lots of sanding. I used several layers of Bondo spot putty, the trick is to lay it on thin, and do many layers. Don't get impatient and slather it on.

mask after one layer of primer & getting ready for paint

before visor & side view

u/Amoney8612 · 5 pointsr/phoenix

A couple dabs of RTV Silicone Sealant should work. Should be able to remove most of the residue with an exacto knife/box cutter blade when you when you want to take it off..just don't try to yank the bobblehead off, or dig into the dash with the blade. Keep it flat, work it back and forth. Nail polish remover may help with the residue. Or I'm sure there's some type of caulk removal product out there.

u/AnTi90d · 5 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

You might try some quick dry electronics cleaner.

Remove the batteries, liberally spray that stuff up in there and let it dry.

Make absolutely certain that it's 100% dry before you try to insert the batteries back into it.

If you can't find quick dry electronics cleaner, locally, Amazon carries a few brands.

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-5103-Quick-Electronic-Cleaner/dp/B000BXOGNI

u/_thirdeyeopener_ · 5 pointsr/projectcar

Couple things to check that I can think of. Check all of your fuses. Disconnect the battery, then go ahead and just replace them all, they're probably all ancient anyway. Make sure to replace with correct amperage fuses. Check for corrosion on the contacts while you're at it. Clean with contact cleaner and wire brush/emery cloth.

The brake light switch on my '62 was a pressure switch mounted on the brake Master Cylinder, '61s are the same. It's ten bucks from rockauto and wouldn't hurt to replace it, since it's 56 years old.

But the main thing I would look at is the bulkhead connector that goes from the fuse block under the driverside of the dash through the firewall into the engine compartment. My car had some weird electrical gremlins that were intermittent and super annoying. That bulkhead connector is hiding under the Master Cylinder and is held in place with a single bolt. Disconnect the battery to be safe, disconnect that bulkhead connector and inspect the contacts. Mine were corroded bad enough to cause my issues. If yours are corroded, spend some time cleaning both ends of the connector with contact cleaner and a wire brush/emery cloth. When you bolt it back together and it still seems loose (like mine did), pull the bolt out and put a small washer or two on it to help keep the connector tight.

If none of this helps, you might have a bad ground somewhere which will be more a bitch to fix since you'll have to start chasing down grounds to make sure they're all still connected and not corroded. And as has already been mentioned, check and replace all the bulbs. Relatively cheap and probably should be replaced anyway.

All that being said, invest in a Shop Manual for your car. They are worth every penny! Those old books are like the Big Bible o' Buick and will show you how to diagnose, repair and replace almost every part of your car. I highly recommend that anyone with an old car find the one they need and buy it immediately, you'll be glad you did. It will also include highly detailed wiring diagrams ;)

Lastly, sign up on www.v8buick.com, the single best and most comprehensive Buick messageboard on the interwebs. It's always active, the folks are nice and helpful, tons of info and a large classified section. I highly recommend it.

u/troubleondemand · 5 pointsr/audio
u/BackroadTwistarama · 5 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Hijacking your comment for visibility, although I'm a bit late to discussion here.

I had the same problem many in here have experienced, and this stuff below is specifically made to evaporate dirt that cause unwanted inputs in electronic devices.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BXOGNI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have two joycons that drifted. One was terrible, and nothing I did helped. The tester thing would be full-blown stuck to the right, but after a couple of sprays of this stuff it was good as new. It came back a bit once or twice, but I think there was some residual dirt in there and it's been perfect for the past few months after being completely unusable. After I did this another joycon started to drift a little and one spray has completely fixed it.

Just make sure the joycon is not on when you use it. The spray is liquid for about 10-15 seconds so you don't want anything to be running in there or it could cause damage.

u/CoolGuyZ71 · 5 pointsr/AutoDetailing
u/mrflarp · 5 pointsr/knifeclub

The 0801 was discontinued as of June 1, so they should be starting to hit clearance prices. Kershawguy has it for $139 w/ free shipping and no sales tax. It is a great design. I've actually ended up with multiple of the different variants of this, but haven't had one of the "plain" ones. Maybe now is an opportune time to pick one up. ;)

As for the pivot coming loose, a bottle of threadlocker runs about $5 online or at your local hardware store. If you plan to be tinkering with your knives at some point, it's definitely worth picking one of these up. A single bottle will last you quite a long time.

u/34k · 5 pointsr/cade

Nintendo joystick shafts go through a captured ball in the base which probably needs a thorough cleaning.
I would start by completely disassembling it and cleaning the entire base, especially the area around the ball. I use Brakleen to de-gunk them. Then after it dries, I use a silicone lubricant on all the metal mating surfaces.

u/Nariek · 5 pointsr/AutoDetailing

I mean brake-parts cleaner. it melts that shit right off. I just had to do it with my car.

u/Ratus_ · 5 pointsr/flashlight

Links are fine.

Nyogel is good or you could just use this, it works just fine too.

I have a tube from 2003-ish that I'm still using, its basically a lifetime supply.

u/Rbnarc · 5 pointsr/Trucking

This absolutely works. Adding a bottle of HEET to your washer fluid will take of the freezing rain.

https://www.amazon.com/28201-Gas-Line-Antifreeze-Water-Remover/dp/B0016GXNC4

u/christopherira · 5 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Don’t spray canned air into it. Make sure it’s contact cleaner for electronics. This is the one I used and it has fixed 2 of my joycons: https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Electrical-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00AF0OFVU/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=wd40+electrical+contact+cleaner&qid=1557692939&s=gateway&sprefix=wd40+&sr=8-2

The rubber flap can be propped up with a little object like a toothpick or safety pin (just be careful), and spray the contact cleaner into it, rotate the stick a few times, and let it dry.

u/Bumpy_Waterslide · 5 pointsr/NintendoSwitch
u/pigferret · 5 pointsr/DJs

I wouldn't call it a fix as such, but have you tried spraying some electrical contact cleaner eg. into the pots and faders?

I've got a beat up A&H Xone:32 and an occasional spray has kept it ticking along nicely.

u/HoboStink · 4 pointsr/vinyl

I'd hit it with some Deoxit and see if it helps the problem. http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-Deoxit-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU

u/MojoMonster · 4 pointsr/Guitar

Are you sure it's a coil split and not series/parallel or OOP?

Because those require the middle position.

For the other thing, your pots need cleaning. Some DeOxit will clear that up.

u/pjor1 · 4 pointsr/Cartalk

https://smile.amazon.com/Permatex-24200-Medium-Strength-Threadlocker/dp/B0002UEMZ2?sa-no-redirect=1

It says medium strength, "for when disassembly is common"

So I was doin it right then

u/testingapril · 4 pointsr/Homebrewing

This stuff works great: http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00063X38M/

recommended by homebrewfinds, I've done several kegs with it and had no problems. Just follow the package directions, and it's set in probably 15-30 mins I think.

u/reddmoney · 4 pointsr/preppers

Fuel stabilizer: https://www.amazon.com/STA-BIL-22214-Fuel-Stabilizer-oz/dp/B000B68V6I

I've saved gasoline 2-3 years without STABIL, I'd be hard pressed to tell you whether or not this stuff is really required. But it is not real expensive so to me it is worth it.

What you really have to do to save gas is have a set of cans and rotate through them so you always use the oldest gas first.

u/ieatfishes · 4 pointsr/hardware

They make cleaner specifically for electronics: http://www.amazon.com/CRC-05103-Quick-Electronic-Cleaner/dp/B000BXOGNI

u/Naail · 4 pointsr/xboxone

I used to have one of electronic cleaners to fix my old sega dreamcast gamepads :D, if it persists or anything worse happens ,I'll probably use them again.

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-5103-Quick-Electronic-Cleaner/dp/B000BXOGNI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487592743&sr=8-1&keywords=contact+cleaner

u/looseseels · 4 pointsr/guitarpedals

Any dielectric grease or white grease should do the trick. Plus you can find it in almost any home improvement or auto parts store.

u/thiosk · 4 pointsr/HomeImprovement

oh my! Thank you for the detailed info and for providing technical information. For the lags, i'm still coming familiar with the vocabulary here- would that be a product like the SDW EWP-Ply Screw?

Some of that is higher level than im potentially capable of this summer I think, so I'll start with the spirals.

​

For the locktite, I presume we'd want to use a product like this

​

Thank you again for the suggestions!

u/itsamodelthreeeee · 4 pointsr/TeslaLounge

Thank you!! Absolutely, here's the video that we watched and followed very closely: https://youtu.be/H9xn066qfKo

Some notes:

  1. Must clean the calipers of all the dirt and grime from the road with this:

    CRC 05089 BRAKLEEN Brake Parts Cleaner - Non-Flammable -19 Wt Oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LDR9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fbdvDbZNSKSJG

  2. Then, take a gritty sandpaper and polish the caliper so it's a smooth surface. Don't overdo it but just enough so the paint has an even surface to adhere to.

    120 Grit Dry Wet Sandpaper Sheets by LotFancy, 9 x 3.6", Silicon Carbide, Pack of 45 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075WV8PN9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NfdvDbPYQJ1VG

  3. The paint is awesome but do thin layers and let it dry before doing the next coat. Took about 3-4 coats for full opacity. The paint gets thick and a little goopy (which is a good thing) sobog recommendation is to practice on another car's caliper first if possible or practice painting a can so you have a feel for how the paint moves and settles.


  4. I used 3 brushes: a large flexible soft paint brush, grabbed two eye shadow brushes to get into the nook and crannies. If you or wife/partner is into makeup, there should be an unused brush stash you could use. If not, grab these at Target, they are exactly $1.

    A. Good for the holes in the caliper and very tight spots (I painted almost all the way to the back of the caliper to make sure it looked red at every possible angle).

    Check out this item at Target https://www.target.com/p/e-l-f-blending-eye-brush/-/A-14653397

    B. A stiffer brush for the verrrrry tight spots where the caliper meets the brake pad and you do NOT want to have Shakey hands and get anything near those pads.

    Check out this item at Target https://www.target.com/p/e-l-f-concealer-brush/-/A-13958833

    C. For extra measure when you are doing touch up in those tight spots (this one is $3):

    Check out this item at Target https://www.target.com/p/e-l-f-angled-eyeliner-brush/-/A-13586153

  5. We did this project in one day, it took a good 7 hours counting in the time it took to get each one of Lord Commander's tires off one by one, carefully painting, carefully getting the tires back on then slooowly driving him back into the garage.

  6. Do not drive for a good 24 painful hours to make sure the paint is dry.

  7. Get these heat resistant stickers to apply after the paint it dry (so you'll have to take the tires off all over again unless you have a place to suspend your baby car for 2 days). You'll have some leftover and you can Teslafy anything you want. We did a quick wipe down off the already painted calipers to make sure the stickers went on clean.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/TESLA-HI-TEMP-PREMIUM-BRAKE-CALIPER-DECALS-STICKERS-CAST-VINYL-/362070373338

  8. Labor of love is an understatement but it gets easier with each caliper. You'll have a ton of paint leftover for future touchups but we've had no problems since doing this 3 months ago with both paint and logo. Take breaks because it's borderline back breaking!

  9. You can spray paint also as seen here
    https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/want-painted-calipers-dont-want-to-spend-600-on-them.140873/#post-3346753

    My husband didn't want to do this method because prep looked much more intense and he'd figure I wouldn't mind a painting project on a cloudy Saturday afternoon.

    If you are in my state, I'd be happy to help. I'm new to reddit so not sure how to do the direct messages but let me know! Hope this helps! Please don't hesitate to ask questions when you start this. 150% worth the effort. It's beautiful and the Tesla service man honestly thought our SR+ was a P3. Even after pulling up the computer to look at the specs, he kept saying,"You're so lucky to have a performance!". I didn't have the heart to tell him it wasn't. Best of luck!!!
u/Lion42 · 4 pointsr/flashlight

SuperLube

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_HJlwDbSZTXJPN

NyoGel is great but expensive. SuperLube is great but cheap...

u/ctyt · 4 pointsr/flashlight

Is it terrible that I use this stuff to lubricate my lights? Granted, my most expensive is a Convoy S2+.

u/nubbinator · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

It's a thinner oil lubricant that's non-reactive with the plastic and often mixed with Krytox GPL 205, a grease lubricant. It's the "ultimate lube" for MX switch contact points (aside from clicky switch stems) according to some people at Geekhack, Deskthority, and some Korean sites. I recently got some as a gift and will try them out with my pseudo Ergo Clears in which I'll be using 67g Korean springs.

Of course, some people don't really see a difference between it and a cheap tube of Superlube. Some actually prefer Superlube and others think the Krytox is a little better, but not worth the premium.

u/QuirkySpiceBush · 4 pointsr/madisonwi

Mississippian here. The winter was a shock when I first moved here three years ago, but here are a few things that helped me adjust:

  1. the right equipment - Winter isn't nearly so bad when you're equipped for it. Buy a good winter coat, hat, and gloves. You'll need an ice scraper for your vehicle, and HEET is a fuel additive that makes it start more easily.
  2. the right attitude - Winters are cold here, but the surprise for me is how dark they are. Lots of gray days in a row can be depressing. You'll want to make the effort to stay active and connected, and avoid cocooning yourself. You're in luck, though. There are tons of events, Meetup groups, and outdoor sports to participate in.
u/drinkduff77 · 4 pointsr/DIY

Heet works really well and burns clean. It's mostly methanol.

u/pepsihatman · 4 pointsr/fffffffuuuuuuuuuuuu

Powdered graphite lock lubricant. Could be the key is a bit off and the pins in the lock can probably use some lubricant. (Do not use WD-40 or other liquid lubricants, only powdered graphite). Amazon link, but you can get it much cheaper at Walmart or local hardware store

u/mlvisby · 4 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

I never had the drift but I do use my pro controller more. I heard spraying this stuff into the joystick part fixes a lot of drift problems.

u/ClassicDomtastic · 4 pointsr/HollowKnightMemes

For people who have problems with their JoyCons drifting, I highly recommend trying this. This is not a permanent fix by any stretch of the imagination; however, after attempting numerous different fixes this has easily shown the best and longest lasting fix for JoyCon drift.

u/LovingShmups · 4 pointsr/consolerepair

Best move here is to use special electrical contacts oil.
I'm living in Europe, so I'm using a European brand (actually French...)
: http://www.kfsolution.fr/kf/KFproductdetail.csp?division=&product=F%202%20SPECIAL%20CONTACTS&ilang=fr&plang=fr

You have different brands in USA, like this one :

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00AF0OFVU/ref=olp_twister_child?ie=UTF8&mv_size_name=0

Most of the time, it will cost you 15 USD / EUR (without transport).
You could find those special electrical contacts oils in a good electronic component shop, if you live a big city.
I have one bottle for now 8 years so you can use a bottle for many years !!
Believe me : it changed a lot of things for me :
N64 cartridge working again, unrecognised joypad on PSX... recognized, boring USB key.. working again, etc.
On your picture, your cartridge isn't clean !
Take a q tip, put some special oil on it and.... clean. do this with 2 Q tips for a good measure.

Spray some oil on your 62Pins Slot, inside the SNES , and you are good to go.
Except for the battery, cartridges can last practically forever....

u/Zandar007 · 4 pointsr/gpumining

Sorry man, that is a bad day.
you have to specifically add Computers to most policies or they are not covered. if you don't end up making a claim, i would consider upgrading the policy to add computers. Its not much to do (you may already have).

I just made those calls today pricing out a policy for my next mini data center.

I agree with Duck - As long as they didn't short circuit they may recover just fine. Key is:

  1. remove power source (remove battery on laptop / phone)
  2. Dry throughly
  3. place in bag of dry rice
  4. Time -
    The key is to let the cards dry completely before you power them again as others stated. The PSU should have shut off right away at first sign of overload or tripped a fuse.

    once you get rid of obvious water - WD40 can be used to displace water and prevent corrosion.

    https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Electrical-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00CMT9TFY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1499524042&sr=8-2
u/slaab9k · 3 pointsr/n64

Go over your connections (including where the cartridge plugs in) with this:

Hosa D5S-6 CAIG DeoxIT 5% Spray Contact Cleaner, 5 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006LVEU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7R3jDbDW9HXR4

You’ll need it again and again in the future if you are in the process of learning electronics repair. Cleaning electrical connections with isopropyl alcohol is misguided and can accelerate problems recurring.

u/ThickAsABrickJT · 3 pointsr/audiorepair

Either the selector itself is dirty/broken (in which case, the Deoxit treatment should do the trick) or there is a problem with one channel of the phono stage's circuitry.

Try the contact cleaner first. If you can get ahold of an oscilloscope--or hell, a piezo earpiece and a quiet room--you can measure the output of the phono stage to track down where the signal from the bad channel is getting lost. I have a feeling it's either a dried-out capacitor or a failed transistor.

u/Eisenstein · 3 pointsr/vintageaudio

Well, if you can use the lab and it has a scope in it then you just scored big time.

As far as $100. I would get:

(amazon links for convenience, use any supplier you wish)

  • DMM (digital multimeter) - must have diode check, DC volts, AC volts, Ohms, and continuity. Extech EX330 ($50) or Equus 3320 ($20)

  • clip leads for the meter such as these - these are important because you will need to take values while the amp is on, and you don't want to be poking around a live amp

  • variable power/temp soldering iron - cheap one good one better one

  • 60/40 leaded solder - I like this kind

  • desolder braid

  • rosin flux

  • contact cleaner

  • (de-oxit d-5)[http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S6-Deoxit-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU/]

  • flush cutters

  • solder sucker

  • shrink tube of various diameters

  • 92%+ isopropyl alcohol

  • windex

  • q-tips

  • paper towels

  • needle nose pliers

  • nice set of phillips head screwdrivers

  • standard screwdriver

  • miner's headlamp

  • digital camera for taking many many pictures before and during disassembly

  • printer for printing service manuals

  • heat gunor hair dryer

  • canned air


    EDIT: Light bulb socket, 100W + 60W real light bulbs (not the hippy engery saving kind), electrical outlet - these are for making a dim bulb tester.

    All I can think of right now.
u/Cheeto333 · 3 pointsr/Guitar

This stuff works very well. I think Radio Shack sells it.

u/fizzicist · 3 pointsr/RedditForGrownups

Also, I had trouble with the Roomba not making a good connection the charging base. It would keep backing up and trying again. Cleaned it with this that I had laying around and it charges on the first attempt

Hosa D5S-6 CAIG DeoxIT 5% Spray Contact Cleaner, 5 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006LVEU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_objiDbFHZFX8Y

Deoxidizer spray is also good for those volume knobs that make the speakers crackle when you turn them. Potentiometer contacts inside are just oxidized.

u/estrago1 · 3 pointsr/Guitar

You'll want contact cleaner. Deoxit is great for cleaning potentiometers, as well as other electronic connections. Look at the picture of the pot that seb_m posted; see that little notch on the bottom, right-hand of the picture? That's where you'll want to spray the contact cleaner. Then you just turn the pot back and forth a few times to work it around.

u/burkholderia · 3 pointsr/Bass

A few that have come up a couple times

Radio interference

Radio in amps is a common problem, especially if you're near a transmitter.
First thing you want to do is rule out pieces of gear that aren't contributing to the problem. If the instrument isn't shielded you can have issues there, try another bass if possible.

If the shielding on your instrument cable is breaking down this can cause problem, try another cable if you can.

If you are using any pedals start with none and add them in one at a time until you get the issue to reoccur. If the problem is a pedal, you can solder a treble bleed cap across the hot/ground connections on the output jack of that pedal, use something like a 5 or 10pf and it should only filter off the very very high frequencies (like radio frequency).
If the issue is before the amp you can try a ferrite bead on the end of the cable before the amp. I tried this once and it didn't work for me, but it's a common recommendation.

If it is definitely the amp there are a few things you can try. The small cap trick I mentioned above for the pedal can work if you do it across the terminals of the input jack on the amp. If the amp is a tube amp make sure that there is a tube shield on the first gain stage. Check to see if there are grid stopper resistors on the first gain stage, you can change the value of the resistors to lower the frequency cutoff.

If there is no grid stopper and you want to add one, you can calculate what resistor to use. R = 1/ (2 PI f C). C is the input capacitance of the tube in farads, f is the low pass cutoff frequency in Hz, PI is constant 3.14, R is in ohms. The input capacitance C = CGK + (CGA A) where A is the voltage gain of the stage, CGK is the grid-to-cathode capacitance and CGA is the grid-to-anode capacitance of the tube. The latter two values are found in the tube's data sheet. For a 12AX7 with a gain stage designed with A to be 60, C is about 103 pF. Let's say you want to cut off everything above 20 kHz. R = 1/(2 3.14 20000 103 10^-12), which is about 80 K ohms.

Some amps just have an issue with internal wiring layout, you can try to move wires around to limit noise, but it can be tricky and dangerous because you have to have the amp open and on.

Don't poke around inside an amp unless you know what you're doing. Some of these things will likely need to be done by a tech.



Rattles

The easiest thing to try is moving your setup to another room or another position in the room to rule out sympathetic vibrations. If you've ruled out room issues check all the mounting screws on the speaker/cabinet and your amp. Check to see if the vibration is frequency specific (does it happen at octaves of different notes) or if it only occurs at low frequencies. With a frequency specific vibration you issue is something resonating and once you can find the problematic component you can try to alleviate that issue. If the rattle is only caused by high levels of low frequency and not specific to a frequency then it could simply be a loose panel or bad seal around the speaker or jack plates. Check the speaker mounting seal, it should be tight against the baffle. If needed you can add some gasket tape to ensure a good seal.


Tubes

There is a fantastic primer on tubes available on the Talkbass Portaflex Wiki that covers all of this in far greater detail, but for some basic troubleshooting there are a few things that are worth mentioning.

With any tube amp, the tubes are the primary suspect for weird noises and other issues. They're more likely to have issues than other passive and mechanical components. It's always a good idea to keep a known good spare of each type of preamp tube in your amp available for troubleshooting purposes. Preamp tubes in general can last many years to decades in most amps, but a good place to start if you suspect that you have tube issues is replacing the first gain stage (V1) of the amplifier. From there try swapping tubes one at a time until you reach the power tubes. If this has not solved your problem there may be an issue with a mechanical component (pots, jacks, switches) or a failing passive component (caps, resistors, etc). If the amp blows a fuse, especially a high voltage (often labeled HT) fuse, the usual suspect is failing power tubes. Swapping the tubes can be a good first step, but fuses blow for a reason and the amp should be checked over by a tech. If a power tube fails suddenly it can damage the screen, plate, or cathode resistors and simply replacing the tube with a new tube would put that new tube at risk for similar failure. In general, if the amp has a tube power section and has started to sound bland or has issues with the power dropping off you should check and possibly replace the power tubes.

Scratchy/static noise

A simple starting point for any kind of static noise is to check for loose jacks or bad cables. Frequently this kind of noise is due to bad or dirty contacts. A product like Deoxit in combination with a small brush or swab is good for cleaning contacts and connections. You can go simple and spray some onto a jack and use a 1/4" plug to run across the contact surface a few times, but a more thorough cleaning is better. With scratchy pots you can spray deoxit/contact cleaner into the mechanism and move the pot a few (hundred) times to clean the contact surface. If this fails to address the issue you may need to replace the pot. If the amp has an effects loop or speaker output that is unused these contacts can get dirty from time to time and a cleaning may be beneficial.

u/artist508 · 3 pointsr/airsoft

I've brought back a few under performing motors by spraying them out with Deoxit.

u/randomracc · 3 pointsr/walkman

Use Deoxit spray on the volume control, and wiggle the volume up and down

here's a link for some if you don't have any

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S-6-DeoxIT-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU

u/tmwrnj · 3 pointsr/Guitar

Pickups almost never fail - they're just a big coil of wire, there's not really anything to go wrong with them.

The first thing to check is obvious - is your volume or tone control rolled off? It sounds silly, but it's easy to overlook if you rarely use the neck pickup.

The next most likely problem is the pickup selector switch. Les Pauls use an open type of selector switch that's prone to corrosion, especially if it's infrequently used. Plug your guitar in, strum the open strings, then click the pickup selector switch up and down and listen to your amp. If you can hear crackling or intermittent sound, it's probably the selector switch.

Most switch problems can be fixed with a squirt of DeoxIT, but the switch may need to be replaced. If you can solder, it's a ten minute job and a six dollar part. If you can't solder, this is a good opportunity to learn - you can buy a basic soldering iron kit for less than $20.

Failing that, take it to a competent luthier. Guitar electronics aren't particularly complicated, so it should be a cheap and quick fix.

u/UboaNoticedYou · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Hey! I've taken apart and fixed more joycons than I can count at this point.

Under the buttons are a rubber contact pad, followed by the contacts themselves. There are three potential issues I can think of right off the bat.

  1. The contact for the A button is damaged or scratched. This is worse case scenario and not very likely unless you got sand into your joycon somehow.

  2. Dirt and gunk on the inside has gotten under the contact pad. This is the most likely possibility in my opinion.

  3. Nintendo put your joycon back together wrong, and the contact pad has shifted position over time. Not super likely but definitely a possibility, if you don't like the contact pad up correctly it could interfere with the function of the controller.

    Regardless of the issue, you're gonna need to open it up and clean it. The toolkit I use it the iFixit Mako toolkit. It'll have all the bits and tools you need save for some needlenose tweezers, and while some other brands like Wera will have higher quality bits, the iFixit kit is more than enough for your needs, especially if this is the only thing you plan on repairing.

    Opening up a joycon can be quite challenging, and to get to the buttons requires taking the entire thing apart due to how everything is sandwiched together. As daunting as it may be, it IS possible as long as you have the right tools, a little confidence, and a lot of patience. JerryRigEverything has an excellent tutorial on how to take apart the Switch, but you only need to worry about the section regarding the right joycon.

    While you're buying everything you need (the toolkit, some tweezers [preferably angled], your favorite brand of ice cream to celebrate after), I also recommend getting [a can of Hosa contact cleaner.] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006LVEU) This stuff is like magic. Spray a tiny bit on the contact for the A button and let it dry, and it'll probably work good as new! Although you don't NEED to get this, it can help with old or damaged electronics, and if you plan on fixing any other controllers I definitely recommend it.

    Now, if you're buying literally everything I recommend then it's gonna come out to >$40 most likely, which is about the price for a single joycon. You can save some money by forgoing the contact cleaner and just buying the triwing and phillips head bits online yourself, but these are all tools that will help you in the future. Think of it as an investment. If you ever have a joycon acting up again, you'll be able to fix it yourself and not have to worry about a warranty. Plus, you can fix your friends' controllers like I have many times! Then again, I'm weird. I enjoy modding joycons. I'm still proud of my most recent mod I made as a birthday gift.

    Whatever you decide, best of luck! I'd love to hear how the repair goes if you decide to go through with it!
u/TheParallax · 3 pointsr/Guitar

Hosa D5S-6 Deoxit Contact Cleaner 5% Spray http://amzn.com/B00006LVEU

I just bought a can of this myself for my amp

u/blatant-disregard · 3 pointsr/modelmakers

Here's what comes to my mind.

The big ones:

Squadron

Tower

Mega Hobby

Lucky Model (Hong Kong)

HobbyLink Japan (Japan)

Hannants (UK)

Smaller shops:

MidTenn hobbies

Roll Models

Great Models

and since you are looking for tools specifically, I'll add

Micro-Mark (pricey, but WOW)

I'm not going to plug any of the listed sites other than to say I have ordered from every one at least once and have had no bad experiences with any of them. As for pricing, sorry to have to tell you but there's no single answer to that one. Prices vary widely between shops and depending on the item you are looking for. Normally the best thing to do is to just shop around.

I'd say to just head to Squadron and get what you need (to browse, just go to Search and hit the Type pulldown). Even if they aren't the cheapest on some stuff, it's not going to be that much of a difference, especially on supplies. Plus their shipping is reasonable and you'll then be on their mailing list which will net you a nice flyer/catalog in your mailbox every month that's great bathroom reading material.

Putty & sandpaper: go to a local shop that sells auto-body supplies (Even something like Autozone will do in a pinch). Get a tube of Bondo Glazing & Spot Putty (or you can apparently save $131,069.71 on it at Amazon, WTF?). That one tube will last you for years. You can also typically get sheets of wet-or-dry sandpaper down to around 10000 grit (in the good places).

Lastly, if you have a decent flea-market near you, head on over there and look for the folks selling used dental tools. You can find all kinds of useful implements digging through their stuff: scribers, scalpels, tweezers, tiny spatulas (for putty), and much more.

HTH

u/disposable-assassin · 3 pointsr/cosplayers

What kind of pits and holes we talking about here? If its what I'm thinking of they're small and from air bubbles mixed into the bondo while combining the red catalyst. If that's the case, I usually have those as well and finish with glazing &spotting putty to fill those.

u/andysaurus_rex · 3 pointsr/3DS

Damn... Does the screen still work? Is there any damage on the other side? I doubt Nintendo will do anything about it because it's a LE, so you can either A) sell it at a severe loss B) try and do a home repair with some sort of filling glue and paint. Maybe something like this and some gold paint that you go over with some clear lacquer. Won't ever look the same, but if you put a Hori TPU case over it, then it might not be so obvious.

u/mircolino · 3 pointsr/thinkpad

Loctite Purple would be even better for such a small thread. Both will work, just use very little.

u/Hotrian · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

I had to break this into another comment due to per comment character limits.

The following previously belonged to the above comment, but was moved here due to the above mentioned limts.

> Something you can do now: Build a filament drybox. Seriously, some filaments such as certain Nylons can go bad in just a few hours, depending on ambient humidity levels. All filaments are susceptible to moisture absorption, and ideally should be kept in something like a Spannerhands holder, even while printing, but at worst you should store them in a big plastic tub with silica gel beads to keep them dry.

> If I had to give one last tip, don't stock up on too much filament yet! Seriously! I thought I would be printing mostly in PLA but now that I've had a few weeks to work with it, I've learned I prefer PETG more, and now I have so much extra PLA! I'm sure I'll find something to do with it, but for my final tip I would add "And get a good variety!". Services like MakerBox (referral) let you try a bunch of different filaments on the cheap. It's not a ton of each filament (about 50g), but I love the variety of materials and colors.

Original second level comment begins:

Final Tips: Bonus Round!

  1. Extruder Indicators are pretty cool (and USEFUL). You can get the magnets super cheap (or amazon).
  2. Learn how to do An Atomic Pull (AKA Cold Pull), and learn it well. Do this every time you switch filaments (See "Doing it the lazy way" at the bottom of the page). You'll help remove built up deposits each time, which will help ensure a long, jam free life for you nozzle. This also skips the bleeding necessary when switching filaments (on your next "Load" you'll get a few mm of old filament and then pretty much pure new filament after that, instead of the 100mm or so of transition). You can skip doing a proper Cold Pull if you're using a brand new printer anyway. Just do a lazy pull each time you switch filaments, and then a proper Cold Pull maybe every 100 print hours, or after using extremely difficult (wet or super exotic) filaments to help remove any residue that may cause future jams or other issues. This does require undoing and redoing the idler tension again, but once you've done it a few times you can do the whole pull and filament swap in under a minute (minus hotend heatup/cooldown time). White Nylon is great for proper Cold Pulls, partially because you can crank the temp up very high (which ensures any residual filament in the hot end should also melt), White PLA would be okay for example, but may not properly pull PETG or ABS from the nozzle. White is great thanks to the color, of course, which allows you to see any residue easier; However, any color may be used. If you only ever use PLA, then PLA would be just fine for a Cold Pull. Seriously though, start by doing Cold Pulls from Day 1 and you'll easily cut out 50% of your future issues.
  3. The small metric fasteners used in the printer are cheap. They are used in a lot of designs found online, so you should stock up (alternate source). The primary fasteners used are M3 Socket Head Cap 0.5 pitch, mostly full thread. You can also get the nuts very cheap. Square, Nyloc, and Hex. I can get the exact lengths used in the Mk3 if anyone needs them, though I'm not sure the exact grade used, it only really effects corrosion resistance.
  4. You can also Calibrate the Extruder steps/mm and extrusion multiplier. Many people will tell you only the later is necessary but I prefer to do both anyway. Theoretically it does make a difference, but practically you can just compensate for steps/mm with the extrusion multiplier, and for all intents and purposes the result is the same, so "many people" are totally right.
  5. You can also Calibrate the PID. You probably won't have to do this for PLA out of the box, but may find you have some temperature swings with PETG or ABS temperatures. The Official Help Article also discusses this method and how to calibrate using the LCD if you prefer. I like to keep my Mk3 settings vanilla (I've never used an M500 directly, and avoid them when I can), so I like to get my PID values manually and set them in my start GCode instead, which also allows me to setup my slicer so each switching filaments automatically switches PID profiles. The bed can be calibrated as well, but again you probably won't need to do this unless you're experiencing temperature swings more than -/+ 5°. One or two degree dips/spikes is perfectly normal (though theoretically can be tuned out, requires proper enclosure for stable ambient temps, etc).

    There are tons of other accessories you can get ahead of time. None of these are necessary, but are small things you might end up using (or wanting to try :P), and should help get you started getting a wishlist together. Besides the ones mentioned in this comment (and the one that precedes it) already:

  • Wire Snips beat the included pliers hands down. For $4 how are you not going to pick these up right now? The cutting edge on a pair of pliers sucks and it doesn't help that it's ****ing halfway down the length of the tool. I tried to get away with just using the included tools and simply gave up trying to use the included pliers to cut zip ties. If you have Prime, get a pair of these now. Get a pair even if you don't - they're worth the shipping cost too. Thank me later.
  • 608 bearings (for prints such as TUSH),
  • Loctite 222 (helps prevent screws from vibrating free, not necessary thanks to Nylocs used in Mk3),
  • A humidity sensor (for filament dry box and checking ambient),
  • An accurate scale (for calculating remaining filament),
  • A small fan (enhanced print cooling when needed (not very necessary except for ultra extreme bridges), enhanced circulation in filament dry box),
  • Small bags (for silica beads),
  • PTFE tube and matching Bowden Couplers (for something like Spannerhands),
  • Lubit-8 (for the LMU88 bearings),
  • SuperLube (Silicone Grease w/ PTFE for Bondtech Extruder gear maintenance),
  • Canola Oil (for lubricating/cleaning filament and seasoning the nozzle/hotend (not necessary with modern hotends)),
  • Small Brass Brush (also for Bondtech Extruder gear maintenance),
  • Nozzle Reams (for the extremely rare jam, because you're doing your Atomic Pulls, right?),
  • Extra Nozzles (no need for the kit, just an example. Hardened nozzles (black) are a good idea for composites, last longer than Brass, regardless of filament used. Prusa Mk3 comes with 0.4mm nozzle preinstalled, but you can easily swap the nozzle),
  • E3D Hotend Sock (helps lock in heat for (theoretically?) lower current usage and more stable temperatures, also helps keep plastic off the heat block in case of print failure),
  • Magigoo (or other adhesion aids) (for certain exotic filaments, otherwise not necessary with Mk3),
  • Tempered Glass or Borosilicate printbeds (for certain exotic filaments),
  • And of course, Isopropyl Alcohol (70% or better, preferably 91% or better) and Acetone, just to name a few...

    Edit: Upon rereading my comment I realized I have a problem.. I own every product I just listed..

    ^^Except ^^for ^^the ^^nozzles ^^kit ^^so ^^it's ^^not ^^that ^^big ^^of ^^a ^^problem, ^^right?... ^^Right?!
u/JutNob · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

If you are using nuts and bolts, I'd recommend Threadlocker Blue (It's available at auto and hardware stores too) it's common name is Permatex. It's a liquid silicone that you coat the threads of the screw with, right before put the nuts on to secure the plate. It fills the the threads, dries quickly, and prevents loosening from vibration.

Good luck.

u/jfastman · 3 pointsr/MushroomGrowers
u/adspacehere · 3 pointsr/StonerEngineering
u/Yamarel · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

No kidding? Man, that's a nice surprise.

Sorry, I thought you were saying "seal the crank pulse generator part with hondabond" not the entire cover lol.
Any guess as to how much i will need? Like will the 1.9fl oz be enough or should I get this off brand liquid gasket or are they basically the same thing?

Will I need a razorblade to remove the existing seal?

Sorry for the barrage of questions but thank you so much for the help already.

u/mingy · 3 pointsr/Toyota

Go to an autoparts store. Explain the seal coming off: they have a special urethane adhesive made expressly for that. I've bought in the past. This https://www.amazon.com/3M-08008-Black-Weatherstrip-Adhesive/dp/B00063X38M isn't the one I used but it is similar.

For the hydraulic lifter, they are real easy to replace, basically a clip to pry aside (at least on all my Toyotas). Here's a video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gphWW2P620Y for a Prius but yours is probably similar. You can un-clip the old one, bring it to the store and get a replacement (or just tell them the make and model and they'll give it to you).

Try do it yourself. Worse case you'll have to ask somebody if you can't. Its real easy.

u/root54 · 3 pointsr/preppers

For gas, you can use a stabilizer to store it for a few years. I use something like this to store gas although I tend to use it within a year: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000B68V6I

u/bbob1976 · 3 pointsr/preppers

I'm going to second this, but add that I use the one with a built-in hose which has been very reliable. Mine have been stored in my non-climate controlled barn for years with no adverse effects. The valve take a bit of practice to get used to using, but not a bother after that. I use an old wine cork to keep bugs and dust out of the hose.

Also note: I only use real gas and a stabilizer in these cans. For the slight extra cost, I can use it in all of my vehicles, farm equipment, and power equipment without worrying about the ethanol content. I buy the stabilizer in bulk from Amazon as well.

u/MrBlankenshipESQ · 3 pointsr/modeltrains

> Hey thanks for answering!

No prob!

> I had no idea DC trains shouldn’t run on DCC, TIL!

Yah. The DCC signal more resembles AC than it does DC. Square wave, not sine wave, and the frequency weeble-wobbles all over the place to transmit the data. It's a bit of an oddball signal, really, because it's trying to pass data along and pass actual power along at the same time. There's also a rather surprising amount of current on tap, moreso than the typical DC pack will provide. My command station puts out ~1.3 amps but I can fit boosters to it that go up to 8 amps each.

> How should I clean the tracks?

Ask a thousand modellers, get a thousand responses. I've had excellent luck rescuing filthy tracks with a lint-free shop cloth and this stuff. I'll spray it onto the cloth, then wipe that along the railheads. Dose a snazzy job of gettin' the schmoo off and dries super quick so no slippery residue is left behind. You might also want to look into a bright boy, given how long your tracks have sat, because while the cleaner I use is great at getting dirt off the railheads it won't really touch actual corrosion. For that, an abrasive will be necessary.

> And what exactly are fish plates? It is mostly peco track.

Fishplates...rail joiners...fiddly little bastards that stab the fuck out of your fingers as you work on your track...they have many names, but they're all pretty cheap and it won't hurt to replace them. Make sure you grab a pair that have wires attached if you already have a pair like that, those'll need replacing too for the same reason.

u/SergeantTibbs · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

Get a can [of this](CRC 5103 Quick Dry Electronic Cleaner - 11 Wt Oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BXOGNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0vj0AbX7S15PQ).

Or get the WD-40 Contact Cleaner. Either will work.

Take good pictures of all sides of the stun gun. You’ll use these to reassemble it.

Remove the batteries. Hold down the stun button for a full minute.

Remove all the screws from the stun gun and gently open it up. Don’t worry, it’s not powered, anything in here is safe to touch.

If you can see both sides of the green circuit board, spray them down with the contact cleaner.

If you can’t see both sides of the circuit board, take more detailed photos of the inside of the stun gun. Note where the screws are, and especially where wires go through the case. Remove any screws from the board and set them aside in a different place from the other screws. You don’t want to mix them up.

Pull the board up just enough to see both sides and spray it down. Be generous with the cleaner. Let it drip off the board onto some paper towels. The oil will be carried off along with the cleaner.

Air out the room when you’re doing this, or do it in a garage.

Put the board back in place and wait at least a few hours for the cleaner to evaporate.

Reassemble the board and case, putting each screw back in the reverse order you took them out. Pay close attention to any wires, and make sure they’re going through the case the same way.

Put batteries in and test. If it sparks you’re good.

And then throw it away and get quality pepper spray you can carry and use easily. A stun gun only irritates and it only works as long as you’re there actually pressing the button. What you want is something you can quickly use, throw away, and then run. The pepper spray will take a moment to really kick in, but it’ll pain and blind your attacker for a while, and make it hard for them to chase you.

u/WardenWolf · 3 pointsr/guns

Breakfree CLP should dissolve that crap. Then spray it with CRC QD Electronic Cleaner to degrease it. You can get it at an automotive store for cheap. It looks like this:

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05103-Electronic-Cleaner-11/dp/B000BXOGNI

u/TheDancy · 3 pointsr/GuitarAmps

Contact cleaner, $4.77 @ Amazon, but you can buy at probably any store like Lowe's.

CRC 05103 QD Electronic Cleaner -11 Wt Oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BXOGNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_m1G9Bb2YS6DMT

And the place on the pot to spray it (about halfway down on the page)

http://www.mtdkingston.com/thezone/repair_and_maintenance.html

u/Scorp63 · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Here is a link to the Amazon one I got.

I know there's tutorials and videos and all that, but I went with this for the cheapest and simplest possible solution and it definitely helped my drift problems with my left joycon which was awful. Just a tiny tiiiiny spritz around a couple sides of the joystick and it was good to go after putting down/unhooked to dry for a little bit.

u/darealmvp1 · 3 pointsr/Tools

Jesus, NO!. The guy said electrical parts cleaner not alcohol. Buy this crap, take your drill apart and douse all the oil off with this shit.

u/TTRSkidlz · 3 pointsr/cassetteculture

I had a problem like this on an old Portastudio.

I put some white lithium grease on the friction-prone portions of the head assembly. That is, any surface that slid against another surface, barring the head itself.

It took some finagling to get it in all the right spots. Then I had to manually move the assembly back and forth, but it eventually started engaging/disengaging normally.

u/Unusual_Steak · 3 pointsr/MTB

I transitioned into working on my bikes almost entirely by myself (Wheel building/suspension service/bearings excluded) and this is the exact path I went down as well. Here is everything I bought from Amazon:

The same $50 tool kit

Torque wrench

Cable/housing/wire cutter

Chain/quick link pliers


Wet/Dry Chain lubes

Park Tool grease

Degreaser

Blue Loctite

Carbon grip paste

And some additional small things like cables, cable end caps, ferrules, zip ties, etc. A set of needle nose pliers can be handy to help push/pull stubborn cables/housings as well.

Also, to make working on the bike 10x easier, I recommend getting a stand. I use this one because I am space constrained and it folds up nice and small, but there are probably better ones out there.

It seems like a lot of $$ to lay out at first, but it pays for itself pretty quickly compared to taking the bike to a shop every time you need to do something to it. Basically everything you need to do can be found on YouTube as well.

u/franciscomor · 3 pointsr/balisong

Probably. could be wrong though. Regardless it's pretty cheap.

Here is a relatively cheap supply list:

Loctite Blue 242:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I1RSNS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9tS9yb9QJHK9R

Nano-Oil 10 weight:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002C9RGA4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_EwS9yb10KF8P2

Torques:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LQEUJ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yvS9ybNJ3JZ9A

There are probably better torques but l think these will work. I have a $45 set so I didn't think that is really cheap lol

u/Rybo_Flavin · 3 pointsr/Arcade1Up

I use Loctite blue threadlocker. It will hold it in place, but will still allow you to remove the bat when you actually want to remove it.

Any auto parts store has it or here is the amazon link.

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Heavy-Duty-Threadlocker-Single/dp/B000I1RSNS

u/Averageboi · 3 pointsr/paintball

I'd use more than just a drop with that stuff. Personally, I'd put enough to make sure two to three threads of the fitting are covered. Your stuff isn't as strong needs more.

When people say they used loctite, they're usually talking about the blue stuff which is different. link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I1RSNS

u/Nyxian · 3 pointsr/airsoft

Hi. As both someone who uses Froglube on firearms, and as someone who techs AEG gearboxes...

It won't be harmful, but really isn't ideal. Specifically, froglube CLP isn't good, far too thin. The paste - well, if you properly treat all of the metal with the heat treatment, it'll be okay, but I still think a proper gear lubricant is in order.

You have to realize that while they are both "guns" - an AEG is far more a gearbox than a gun. You need gearbox lubricant not gun lubricant.

I highly suggest for seals and the like - a solid silicone lubricant. Barrels and mags - a teflon lubricant with alcohol application, so it dries but still provides lubrication, without getting on bbs.

For the gearbox? Go with Super lube.

u/ender32708 · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

WD-40 is not a lubricant, I use mobil grease, but this would be just fine ( see link) or stop at a auto store and get a multi purpose grease.

Super Lube 21030 Translucent White Color 3 oz. Automotive Accessories https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Yk22Cb96K4F0F

u/EngineeredMadness · 3 pointsr/Homebrewing

My gas toolbox:

Teflon Tape

Replacement gaskets for every fitting in service (tank-to-regulator, and all keg gaskets, beer nut / shank washers if doing faucets)

Extra tubing for gas and beverage

Extra barb-swivel nut fittings

Spray bottle with soapy water or starsan to check for leaks

Channel-lock wrench x 2 (many brass fittings are just threadded so you may need to hold one thing in place while threading or un-threading something else.

Nylon washers if using MFL/FFL connectors (I recommend this as opposed to barb).

Hose Clamps or Oketer Clamps and crimp tool

Faucet Wrench (if you're working with shanks - you do not want to wreck a new shank with a pair of pliers)

Extra picnic taps

Extra QDs

Keg Lube Generic Equivalent: It doesn't need to say Keg on it, it needs to be food grade. Do not mix silicone-based lubricant with silicone gaskets, it will kinda melt them. I have this stuff at the moment

​

u/PMMeAGiftCard · 3 pointsr/nintendo

I can tell you from experience these work great. I also put a little bit of Superlube Synthetic Grease in mine to slow down the wear and tear.

u/almightywhacko · 3 pointsr/transformers

This is a great looking figure. I have Spark Toy's War Within Optimus Prime and he is an amazing figure. Quality is second to none and the engineering is nearly perfect.

One note about this review:

DO NOT USE WD-40 ON A PLASTIC TOY!

Petroleum dissolves plastics and WD-40 isn't a lubricant anyway, it is a solvent. If you have a hinge or slider that is too stiff to safely move, get some powdered graphite. It is a dry lubricant, won't harm plastic and any excess can easily be wiped or brushed away.

u/illigal · 3 pointsr/cars

cheap fix: headliner/carpet spray adhesive:

http://www.amazon.com/3M-38808-Headliner-Fabric-Adhesive/dp/B004MEBENM

more expensive fix: replace the panel. They're usually cheap from a facebook group for your car (people parting crashed/broken cars), or you can spend a little more

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2003-2010-VW-BEETLE-CONVERTIBLE-INTERIOR-RIGHT-DOOR-TRIM-PANEL-GOOD-CONDITION-/331705302429?hash=item4d3b2d3d9d:g:T-UAAOSwyQtVvFUn&vxp=mtr

u/zeekiz · 3 pointsr/perth

Peel back the headliner in the affected area and use some adhesive spray. Try and get something that's designed for headliners.

Eg.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004MEBENM/ref=redir_mdp_mobile/187-5835893-8984414

u/MoogleMan3 · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Next time use contact cleaner; not wd40. I use this. Good stuff.

u/HubbaDubba2017 · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AF0OFVU/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl this is the perfect fix for drift more people need to know about it

u/jonnydoo84 · 3 pointsr/wallstreetbets

This isn't horrible. $25 gift card, but more importantly, it should be the version2 switch with better battery life - https://slickdeals.net/f/13642192-nintendo-switch-v2-25-amazon-promo-credit-298-99?src=frontpage

if you buy it and actually use it enough you'll probably want this - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AF0OFVU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

then follow this.
https://nintygamer.com/switch-controller-drift-fix/

u/falkentyne · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

You can buy 100g of Shin Etsu g-30m for $15 dollars.

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Honda-08798-9013-Silicone-Grease/dp/B00GD49GTS/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484511084&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=Shin+Etsu+G30M

https://www.amazon.com/Honda-Genuine-Shin-Etsu-Grease/dp/B006Z9TZ9M/ref=pd_sbs_263_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=WEKT07SSDX3GN5H49VKM

G-40M is available from focusattack but it's more expensive.
https://www.focusattack.com/shin-etsu-g-40m-silicone-grease-100g/

They all perform the same so its not worth paying the extra $10, and Sanwa themselves said that you can use G-30m on their joysticks just fine.

Shin etsu ALSO makes thermal compound for CPUs but this is NOT the same thing. This is VERY high quality silicone lube.

While the best way is to disassemble the top of the switch, only PCB mount switches can be accessed this way without soldering (a removal tool is on mechanicalkeyboards.com). You can just find something needle nosed or pinhead thin and press the switch down and squeeze a little into each side of the switch. You don't need a lot.

u/AaronCompNetSys · 3 pointsr/Miata

$15.93 via Amazon Prime - Genuine Honda 08798-9013 Silicone Grease (Thanks, u/tadfisher)

It's a common topic, but many simply have not come across it. This Shin-etsu is what Japanese OEMs use to keep rubber weather stripping like new. It can rejuvenate stuff you though needed replaced, everyone should have a tube of it and treat yearly to bi-yearly, on any vehicle.

Use gloves, apply a very thin layer, allow to sit for at least an hour. Wipe off excess with moist cloth towel.

Posting this because Tom was recommending the cheap generic stuff.

u/IRMuteButton · 3 pointsr/Miata

Here's the Shin Etsu grease on Amazon. It's actually a Honda part and useful for all kinds of things. It has the consistency of soft butter.

u/MetalHead310 · 2 pointsr/DIY

I didnt read your specific problem but I know for a FACT Deoxit is the gold standard for cleaning electric components. I have used it on electric guitars and vintage stereo receivers with great results.

http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-Deoxit-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398794582&sr=8-1&keywords=deoxit

u/laydros · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Pioneer Andrew Jones SP-BS22 for $140 and a craigslist or thriftstore integrated amp or reciever with the other $60.

Cheapest deals will be 70's Japanese stuff. Kenwood, Pioneer, Teac, and a lot of others I can't think of off the top of my head.

Then go to Amazon and get some Deoxit to spray on the knobs and switches every couple of years. This will knock off any corrosion on the controls to keep you from getting scratchy knobs or loosing channels.

u/TophatMcMonocle · 2 pointsr/vinyl

Glad to assist. I'm a tremendous fan of the suspended Pioneers of that specific vintage, and have two PL-630s and a PL-600 in my turntable collection that I've restored as needed. I don't sign up for that kind of work without feeling some love for the design.

Once you're at a level of turntable that precludes obvious audible misbehaviors, like unsteady speed, noisy drives, or insufficient weight and deadness to combat vibration feedback, then probably 95% of the sound you get will be cartridge dependent. Switch your carts and the Pioneer will be the warmer one.

Failure of the tonearm to move and a whirring sound from the small motor = bad tonearm belt. Sometimes it'll just be sluggish or it'll squeal, but the fix is the same.

This is the cleaner you need. The one you linked was a cleaning solution, but this is a contact cleaner. (Less diluted.)
I fixed my stuck button by simply unplugging the deck and spraying in the tiny gaps around the button, and working it over and over until it freed up. I had to pry it up at first until the DeoxIT started doing its thing. In my experience it's a fix that'll last for many years. If that doesn't do it, there are people over at Audiokarma.com who've disassembled the buttons, and a strong search will take you to that topic. I can help you get there, because if there's anything restoring turntables has taught me, it's how to search the shit out of Audio Karma and Vinyl Engine for those who've been there before.

Any electronics repair shop with an old experienced guy is a good bet. It would take some calling around and perhaps a half-day drive. There aren't many turntable repair shops left, if any. If you're handy and can wield a soldering iron when the chips are down, I'll bet you can fix it. I did my first TT restoration with nothing but basic auto mechanic experience and I got through it. If you enjoy this sort of thing, you'll find working on the Pioneer rewarding due to the quality and cleverness of the design. It will quickly become apparent why it sold for twice the money of the Dual. The $400 it cost then is $1200 in today's money, and that was a mass production price. Aluminum plinth with no plastic in sight. Booyaaa.

If the platter and armboard move at all, your transit screws have been removed. The Japanese used short suspension travel, whereas the Brits and the Germans favored Baja trophy truck suspension. All that matters is that it is truly suspended during normal use, and not up against either the high or low limits. If it is, it can be adjusted.








u/Narwahl_Whisperer · 2 pointsr/prius

You could try this:

​

get control contact cleaner (not eyeglass contact cleaner- this stuff is meant for electronics) like this

​

(do this stuff with the car off)

​

remove the volume knob.

​

spray contact cleaner where the twist part of the volume control meets the rest of the car

​

spin the volume knob a lot

​

replace knob

​

repeat as necessary. Try to keep the contact cleaner out of your cd player. Also, I would wear plastic gloves. edit: maybe even shield the area with a rag- the contact cleaner almost always splashes back, this stuff sprays way harder than it needs to. I've got it in my eye more than once, even with glasses on.

u/tehsma · 2 pointsr/edmproduction

If the volume (trim) knob on the back of the monitors is a potentiometer, which it likely is, perhaps it is a bit corroded. Potentiometers have copper contacts which oxidize.

This was problematic in my Mackie HR824 monitors- The Frequency response was compromised in one of them, due to this corrosion. You could tell because, when you adjusted the volume knob while a song was playing, you could hear scratchiness, and certain freqs would fade in and out. I Fixed it by spraying a small amount of deoxit around the edges of the potentiometer (WHILE THE UNIT WAS OFF), and then rotating the knob to its two extremes a few times to clean off the gunk. Problem solved.

If you don't hear dips in volume or scratchiness when you adjust the volume (trim) knob while sound is playing, then I don't think its an oxidation problem.

Another point where this can happen is in the output stage of your audio interface. In some cheaper or defective units, the outputs may not be properly balanced, leading to asymmetrical volume response. And still another: The cables themselves. I can imagine that one cable may have a poor connection and suffer some signal loss, so its worth ruling that out as well.

u/major_space · 2 pointsr/scooters

If that's the case this stuff solves every problem I have ever had.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006LVEU

u/petelp · 2 pointsr/Roku

This problem sounds like you may have some dirty or oxidized contacts on your hdmi ports and/or plugs, which can definitely cause the symptoms you're seeing.

Whenever you remove a plug and plug it in again the friction of that action does a little cleaning, which would explain the temporary improvement you see when you do that.

Removing the plug and plugging it in (say 20 times in a row) may make your problem disappear for a much longer time. However, that action, preceded by spraying "contact cleaner spray" into both the hdmi ports and the hdmi plugs, will provide the best solution. (Assuming that dirty/oxidized contacts are the source of your problem.)

I do think that's like to be the answer. I had similar problems years ago, and the solution I described has kept me problem free ever since, without needing to repeat the process.

amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-Deoxit-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415131866&sr=8-1&keywords=contact+cleaner+spray

u/BrewerGlyph · 2 pointsr/GuitarAmps

I was able to solve this by removing the tubes and using DeoxIT on the pins. Careful not to get any on the glass; it will remove the ink markings. Some fine sandpaper on the pins might help, as well.

u/Badger68 · 2 pointsr/Guitar

Deoxit D5 is the best contact cleaner for dirty pots. I tried substitutes (radio shack...) and they just don't cut the mustard. I haven't cleaned a twin, but on other amps and guitars I've gotten it to work without taking the chassis out. Turn the amp off, spray a good amount between the knob and the amp. Turn the knob back and forth a few times and leave it to dry for a minute or two. Power it on and see if it worked.

u/dabneyd79 · 2 pointsr/simracing

First thing is the "registers values when it is not even being engaged." issue. You need to get some Caig Deoxit to clean the potentiometers. That will resolve that issue. I'm not sure you'll be happy with not hard mounting the pedals if you have a really heavy brake pedal; I know I wouldn't be.

u/isanyonekeepingtrack · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

First, make sure you're using Ammonia/VOC free glass cleaner. It's much less likely to screw up your electronics, or your nice HDTV screen.

If it's just the contacts on the SD card reader, you can try cleaning it with alcohol like said. Better would be to purchase an Electronics Contact Cleaner and see if you can revive it that way.

u/weirdal1968 · 2 pointsr/vintageaudio

There are tiny slots in the EQ sliders where you would spray the contact cleaner order Deoxit D5 on Amazon. Use the link below to learn how to use it to clean the volume control.

https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/the-idiots-guide-to-using-deoxit-revisited.207005/

u/dragonslovetacos2 · 2 pointsr/Turntablists

Hosa D5S-6 CAIG DeoxIT 5% Spray Contact Cleaner, 5 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006LVEU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_H26SCbP1TAWD1 I love you too.

Source: electronics technician

u/tim404 · 2 pointsr/Cartalk

Along these lines: since you're going to the trouble of pulling the dash apart and getting to the back, you should hit your electrical connections with some contact cleaner to help prevent this from happening in the future.

u/Addy711 · 2 pointsr/simracing

If you can get a part number or the specs you may find it on digikey.com or mouser.com.

Also you may be able to revive your old pot if it's just jittery or spiky with DeoxIT D5

u/electrictrumpet · 2 pointsr/vintageaudio

Sheesh, actually I just checked and it is like $15 a can now, price must've gone way up. I bought mine like 5+ years ago and it's still got plenty left but I have used it on lots of stuff.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00006LVEU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1459267926&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=deoxit&dpPl=1&dpID=41esA2w9C%2BL&ref=plSrch

u/atetuna · 2 pointsr/CherokeeXJ

I was able to read the signs for the streets on the corners around my neighborhood at night for the first time. The beam pattern kicks up to the right, and so do HID projectors, which is done so signs like that can be read. I used to bring a custom made 5000 lumen flashlight with me to shine at signs like that, but I won't need to do that anymore. That's all I can tell you so far. I literally only have about five miles with them so far, and no highway driving yet. Deer are a big concern for me too, so I'll be paying close attention to that when I drive outside of town at night.

Yes, glass lens.

Some people have had issues with the relays that come with the Putco harness, so I ordered a couple spares. Here's the products I ordered. All from Amazon, all with Prime shipping. Unfortunately some of the packages arrived in three days instead of two, but that should still give you plenty of time for your trip.

Hella 55/100W bulbs
IPF H4 housings
Pilot relays
Putco harness

This video can help tell you where to run the harness. Btw, the video says it, but there's a spare plug that goes into the old harness bulb socket. All it does is get the signal to flip on the low or high beams.

One extra thing I did was spray all the contacts with Deoxit to get a cleaner connection and prevent corrosion.

u/cartesian_jewality · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Thanks for the response!

Yea, on the lower end of the bumper it was pierced. I'll go ahead and clean the hole out before I fill it then probable 2000 grit wet sand the area.


What do you reccomend for areas like this?
https://i.imgur.com/tKRiTOZ.jpg

This is the type of filler I picked up, how well will this look painted?
https://www.amazon.com/Bondo-907-Glazing-Spot-Putty/dp/B0002JM8PY


u/Moeparker · 2 pointsr/FixMyPrint

To repair models I use:

https://netfabb.azurewebsites.net/

Now I just tried that on the HelmetFull and it did not fix the gaps. That's just missing parts of the model.

For gaps like that I'd use the spot putty.
https://www.amazon.com/Bondo-907-Glazing-Spot-Putty/dp/B0002JM8PY

I use that to fill in the big gaps. Then spray on primer, sand, spray again, etc. The way I finish my parts is as follows:



I fill holes, then spray primer, 3 coats. 120 grit sandpaper over all of it, pretty good pressure.

Then 2 more coats after I dust it off. Then medium pressure sanding with 220 grit sandpaper.

Then 2 more coats with medium pressure sanding using 320 or 400 grit sandpaper.

1 more coat, then light sanding with 1000 grit sandpaper. By the time I'm done my 3D prints are smooth as glass.


Far as the model itself, I used Rhino 3D to model and looks like it's easy to grab each piece and "export selected" as it's own file.
http://imgur.com/jFVN7Ve


If you wanted to you can get a 90 day free trial of Rhino 3D from their website. Full version for 3 months, free. That's how I was able to play with it and decide it's the software i wanted.

I might be able to save all those armor pieces as individual pieces. Seems fast enough. ...ok yeah it was.

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B9_Cuin8abLtUmlkNHowSFhrd3M&usp=sharing

That SHOULD be a google drive shared folder. idk, never used it before.

31 items, should be all the armor pieces from neck to toes.

Good luck

u/theCaitiff · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I like Durham's Water Putty. It is cheap, fills the grain, easy to sand, doesn't shrink, cures hard, and is easy to find at most big box home stores. It's a tan powder, add water until it is peanut butter consistency and it is ready to sand in 20 minutes.

To me, Bondo doesn't sand as well. Add to that frustration, you have to mix bondo with a curing agent to get it to harden.

Air drying spot putty can be a little trickier to find but is a favorite of some people. As the name implies, it does not need any additional during agents.

I do NOT recommend regular wood filler. Unlike Durham's, it will shrink and pull away from your parts, potentially ruining your finish a week or two after you declare it "done".

u/Lord_swarley · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

For the screw sizes typically found on multirotors I actually recommend the purple kind.

u/ohwowgee · 2 pointsr/1022

Small gun related tip.

Loctite is your BEST friend. Anything that unscrews, or loosens with a thread on it, should get a small dab. Purple is lighter than Blue (Red is the strongest). If you're worried about the strength of the screw head, use Purple.

http://amzn.com/B0002UEMZ2 \ http://amzn.com/B0002KKTT0

Use screwdrivers that are "hollow ground". Meaning, for a flat bit, they should not be shaped like normal screwdrivers. A normal screwdriver actually usually looks more like a wedge than an straight block being inserted into the screw head. Here's a nice picture:

http://makezine.com/review/tool-review-garrett-wade-gunsmithing-screwdrivers/

You don't have to run out and buy fancy screwdrivers. Grab a metal file, and carefully file the sides of a cheap bit so it is more square. Keeps your screws pretty.

Last bit of advice, Dremels work really REALLY quick. Be careful!

You can put a trigger stop yourself if you'd like, that will reduce the overtravel. Check this out:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DgBprD635HM

Have fun, stay safe!

u/Nibroc99 · 2 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

Definitely do the shocks and brakes yourself! You'll save yourself nearly a thousand dollars and they really aren't even that hard to do with common hand tools.

How to replace brake pads and rotors

How to replace shock absorbers

How to replace struts (if this is what your car has rather than separate shocks and springs)

You really shouldn't need a full brake system flush for a car that's this new, but if you really want to...

The alignment will need to be done by a professional though, but all the other stuff can be done yourself for probably $150-200. You'll learn a ton about how your car works and how to fix it, and you'll probably get a lot of supplies that you didn't know you needed, like silicone paste lubricant for the brake guide pins, copper anti-sieze, and thread locker, all supplies that can be used for many, many different things, not just this one brake job!

I hope this all is helpful. I've been doing this stuff at home for many years so feel free to reach out if you need any help at all.

u/potussanta · 2 pointsr/Watches

Permatex 24200 Medium Strength Threadlocker Blue, 6 ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002UEMZ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nJVzDbYM5A4DS

I’ve had no problem using this from mountain bike parts to pens. It’s not the original loctite brand but should do the job!

u/NoSatellite · 2 pointsr/applehelp

Protip- if you do choose to remove the cover, put some blue thread locker on the screws before you replace them.

u/Coreycry · 2 pointsr/fpvracing

Frame: Realacc x210 V+
I have the non-V+ but the size isn't easy to build with, it required to mount the PDB flat, not on stand-offs.
4mm is pretty strong, a good choice for starting.

FPV cam: there are no bad choices, only preferences (PAL vs NTSC / CMOS vs CCD / IR block vs IR sensitive), this Swift will do fine.

Motors: Racerstar 2205 2300KV
2300KV gives you more torque, thus more compatibility with any propellers you want to try, see props section.
You'll choose 2600KV when/if you feel the need to, after more experience flying.

ESC: Racerstar RS30A V2 Blheli_S
Blheli_S is mandatory if building new: compatible with Multishot and Dshot in some extent, start with Multishot though.
20A would do fine I'm sure, but I'll choose 30A because Chinese-numbers and price difference.

PDB: Matek-clone with 5V/12V/Current Sensor
It's so cheap and do the job, integrated current sensor, XT-60 connector at the back.
Buy this XT-60 if mounting battery on the side.

FC: Omnibus F3 clone
OSD is integrated, and works well with the PDB above to read Current Sensor. This Youtube playlist is also nice when starting

Antenna: Anything really, small or long, you'll break them a lot so don't go too expensive right now.
Bear ind mind:
-first fly with this, it still works at fair-enough range and very durable.
-buy the same "type" of antennas: RHCP with RHCP, LHCP with LHCP. Don't mix them and label them if needed!
-5.8GHz for the video, 2.4GHz for your radio/remote.
-look at your video transmitter (Vtx) connector : RP-SMA/SMA-male/female
-buy multiple adapters, you never know when you'll need them.

Props: Science now! Propellers go according to your motors (torque) and also the battery (3S vs 4S), that's for the future, obviously they all fly (and break) at the end.
KingKong 5040 bi-blade are known to be cheap, good and durable.
-Tri-blades are heavier than Bi-blades, 2300KV motors can even bear Quad-blades.
-Bi-blades generally allow more room for unballanced propellers.
Need balancing your props?

Charger: Genuine Imax B3 = need to buy a power supply.
Fake Imax B3 = it works fine, no need to buy power supply.

Battery: There is debate to whether start 3S vs 4S, you could buy 4S now and be gentle on the throtlle.. but do you trust yourself?
I'd start with two 3S until I can do powerloops with confidence, and that's not today.
Get cheap at roughly $30 each, and around 1500mAh to get the most flight time/experience, forget lightweight ultra expensive 100C fake-rating 900mAh like you were racing for $2,000 championship.

Video Transmitter: preferably small & power adjustable, 25mW when flying with others and 200mW when flying alone.
DO NOT turn on 600mW it will simply burn unless you fly very fast all the time, when cold..
Also never power the copter without an antenna, Vtx will also cook.

Goggles: check if it accepts both PAL and NTSC, depending your camera.

Radio receiver: depends on your radio transmitter/remote obviously, I'd suggest going FrSky if you're naked. Check the difference between Mode1 & Mode2 before buying, Google will help.
No money and geek: Devo7e + FrSky/small toys multi-module, can control FrSky & TinyWhoop-like toys but requires some good knowledge on hacking/soldering/configuration.
No money and newbie: Turnigy Evolution is having some hype recently, but does not work with FrSky receivers. You probably need to open this link twice for it to work btw.

EDIT:
M5 size nylocks cuz the aluminum stock ones suck.
Blue Loctite or similar cuz vibrations will loosen the screws.
M3 screws cuz you never have the right size.
M3 nylon stand-offs cuz they break in crashes, you can get a pack of different sizes too.
75W soldering iron and it's the minimum, in this hobby you'll prolly want a station (you'll find good-enough ones at $60 on Amazon)

u/stevedt · 2 pointsr/TickTockManitowoc
u/shifty21 · 2 pointsr/sysadmin

The monoprice stands are great. I bought 2 dual screen mounts to put on my lab's work bench. I got ones with the articulationg arm. The one that ovaltineEuroFormula will work for what you want.

Pro Tip: do yourself a favor and get a bunch of washer, LocTite and these type of thumb screws

I makes for taking on and off monitor tool less. The washers help spread the weight of the monitors. And the LocTite helps keep the bolts in. I do performance automotive work on the side as a hobby and I use that stuff on everything.

I didn't do any of that when I first did the install and regretted it once we started moving the articulating arm around and the bolts started to loosen a bit. Replaced everything from above and no problems for over a year and a half of use/abuse.

u/blujeh · 2 pointsr/applehelp

I would take the bottom cover off and blow the dust out of the two fans. I have to do this once every 6 months or so because of pet hair. Even if the vents are exposed you may have dust or hair caught in the back of the vents on the inside. Make sure you get some of this to put on the screws because once you take them off they seem to wiggle loose over time.

u/fong · 2 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

As others have stated, the timing cover itself will need a high temp, oil resistant gasket maker like red RTV.

u/SmokeShrubbery · 2 pointsr/StonerEngineering

Agreed, the little "top hat" shaped grommets are great. Might also be able to use gasket maker if nothing else fits. (http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-F81160-Hi-Temp-Silicone-3-Ounce/dp/B0002UEN1A/ref=pd_sim_auto_1)

u/jvargaszabo · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Try going to an auto parts store and getting some silicone RTV, probably a small tube.

I could be totally off-base here, but that seems like it would have the desired effect. It's usually temperature resistant, and if you get it somewhere you don't want it, it usually scrapes off pretty easy. Not clothes, or hair unfortunately.

I think you're not supposed to get it on your skin. It'll dry/cure to a silicone gasket material. It's sometimes referred to as gasket maker.

u/Search11 · 2 pointsr/intel

Valid concerns but trust me it’s a breeze to do. Given how hot your CPU gets you will benefit from a proper delid. Granted though you are still within safe temps. The temps are highish but they aren’t abnormal compared to most others. Higher temps do lessen the life of the CPU but we are talking a very small time span compared to the market life of the chip. I’d say you and 99% of all PC builders will have build a second or even third computer before silicone degradation even reaches minimal levels. If that makes sense. Yeah high temps kill it but it’s like saying the three cigarettes you smoked in high school took two minutes off your life when you live to be a hundred anyway. Analogy might be to the extreme but I wouldn’t worry about it.

With that said here’s some links that will help you.

Delid tool and re attachment tool:

https://rockitcool.myshopify.com

Plastic razor blades to remove stock glue (what you mentioned not knowing what to do with, yes remove it the easiest way I’ve done it was using these and a small amount of isopropyl alcohol):

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D6EXLR0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_nvYleOEGfw2EO

Silicone “glue” for IHS re attachment. To be honest the very first delid I did was a 3570k using wood a vice and a hammer and I didn’t reglue it. It’s still alive too. I would personally just use a very small amount on the four corners. Just enough to stick. You are correct in your concern about the stock glue causing the IHS to not make perfect contact with the die. Remove the stock crap and use minimal amount of this and it will be a non concern:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002UEN1A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_2g9BJXXKzhp9F

Lastly, your liquid metal for the die to IHS and your TIM for the IHS to Kraken. You can use any but it’s probably safe to say Grizzly is currently the go to stuff:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011F7W3LU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_6QNoes1d24uyu

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A9KIGSI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_lBeHQg1WHWPGP



All in all it’s easy and it’s worth it. If you have any questions whatsoever message me or reply here. There are some good videos of walkthroughs (I think one really good one is on rockitcool’s website but I’m not sure). I can find them for you but tomorrow as I’m currently in bed and using a half open eye lid to write this.

u/MycTyson · 2 pointsr/MushroomGrowers

>Silicone: I see clear silicone used a lot. Any recommendations?

Get the RTV high temp - I use clear 100% Silicone from GE available at Wal-Mart and it fails after only a few uses, most auto stores will have the RTV high temp silicone.

$5.30 on Amazon! Gotta love Amazon Prime, very worth it for the small purchases that show up in 2 days.

>Jars: You are going to want a supply of Quart jars. Extra lids eventually too. Buy them anyplace.

I'd specify wide mouth for cakes, regular mouth for spawn. I use wide mouth exclusively, just as a personal preference. I can make cakes of any size, or spawn for that matter!

>Ty-vex: Get them from the post office for free.

Just a silly thing, 'Tyvek' as opposed to 'Tvvex'. It's this one when you go to the post office.

>Petri Dishes: (glass plastic?)

You'd think glass, but no. I can't justify the cost vs the amount of petri dishes I need to work with. I prefer the '4 section' petri dishes for expanding cultures or when receiving a new culture. That way you can quickly expand it if it's clean or isolate away from contaminants on the same dish, instead of using multiple. For presentation, I prefer the dishes that /u/SmellyTongues sends me from Cell Treat. Wow, they're beautiful! They stack very nicely, and seal much better than the cheap 4 section ones I've bought off of Amazon.

>Bags for Pressure cooker?

What? Are you referring to filtered patch bags for growing?

>masks, gloves

I'll be doing a write up soon about sterile operating procedure which I'll get shortened to SOP in context of this hobby, which should encompass the basics. Good, solid gloves are a must, you're working with seemingly dull jar lids, but they'll slice right through gloves. Get some good ones, or you'll end up owning several pairs with slices in them rendering them effectively useless IMO.

For masks, I've tried the free ones you get from the hospital and compared to the expensive painters dusk masks of the same build but much better quality. I used my electronic cigarette to take in a mouthful of vapor - covered my mouth snugly with each mask (one at a time) and exhaled. The results were easily apparent as the one I paid for only allowed a small amount of vapor out through my chin whereas the other was expelling vapor out the entire perimeter of the mask. I do have a gas mask, but I've not found a problem using my dust masks repeatedly over and over.

>anything else?

Might be able to include this in the dehydrator section, but 'Dririte'/'Damprid' or any similar product would be a good idea. Here's a link to amazon.

I personally use silica packets for storage, you could make your own with these or build a simple decanter using a bowl with a lid, a rack to elevate the fruits above the crystals in the bowl, and 24 hours.





u/throw_away_232332 · 2 pointsr/klr650

Here's a link to the same bolt I bought: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040CRVD8 (comes in pack of 5).

It's the same type of bolt except a bit oversize, so you can re-thread the aluminum pan -- just do it slowly and be careful on the first try, perhaps even back out a few times.

I was in the same situation and found this to work. I haven't changed the oil again yet, but I'll make a point to be extra careful re-torquing next time.

One piece of advice I found was to use high temp sealant (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002UEN1A) on the bolt at every oil change, as insurance against any lose threading. But just judging form the feel of bolt, once you rethread it seams to be a pretty tight fit; you'd have to be careless to mess it up.

Good luck.

u/pyr0ball · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Looks like I may have miscopied it. Here it is

Looks like thingiverse was truncating the link for some reason. I used a shortener and that seemed to fix it. Thanks for pointing that out!

u/IlllIlIIllIlllllIIlI · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Any 7700k delid tool should be good, rockit 88 is fairly common. This is a great thread if you need info/want to ask questions on delidding The process goes as such:

  1. After delidding you'll want to clean off the thermal paste from the die, and all the black silicone around the PCB (the silicone is the main reason for thermal issues... its too thick)

  2. Buy some liquid metal which is fairly cheap. Coolaboratory liquid ultra, thermalgrizzly conductonaut are two of the common liquid metals used

  3. Applying the liquid metal is kind of tricky because you need so little. There should be NO pooling of the LM at all on the die - you do not want it to squeeze out and leak. I cant emphasize this enough - you hardly need ANY... just an extremely thin sheet covering the die. It has also been reported on overclock forums that applying liquid metal to not only the die, but to the underside of the IHS itself can be beneficial thermally. In order to do this, use masking tape to cover everything but the area that the die would contact... then put a tiny amount of LM and rub it in as much as you can, then remove the masking tape!

  4. I'd recommending relidding (rockit has a relidding tool that you can buy separately I believe, in order to line the IHS up perfectly). To relid simply buy some of your own silicone and apply a dot in each corner, keep it minimal... just enough to hold the IHS in place.

  5. After relidding, you're gonna also need thermal paste to go between the IHS and your cooler. Thermalgrizzly's Kryonaut is the best. The quality of your thermal paste honestly doesn't make much of a difference though.
u/awyeahmuffins · 2 pointsr/buildapc

For re-lidding? I used this.

u/Lobster70 · 2 pointsr/Miata

Agree. Some purists will say to only get the gasket from Mazda. But considering the low price and effort of replacing the valve cover gasket, a Fel-Pro from Amazon should be just fine. You also need some silicone gasket goop for six potential leak spots. One tube should last practically forever.

It is and easy job, but you must be careful to not over tighten the bolts into your aluminum head. Torque to 43 - 78 inch-lbs. Also, tightening the bolts in the order recommended by Mazda will help avoid leaks. Use this guide: http://www.miata.net/garage/valvecover/

u/NevilleDevil · 2 pointsr/overclocking

The Yelloblade

Do you know the yelloblade? (All Shrek jokes aside).

This is the gasket maker. You do not need 3.5oz of gasket maker unless you're doing deliding projects left and right - or meant to use it for what it was actually meant for.

u/Mn2511 · 2 pointsr/ft86

Read on the forums that it's usually a tail light gasket issue and applied this sealant on both gasket surfaces and that solved the issues.

3M 08008 Black Super Weatherstrip Adhesive Tube - 5 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00063X38M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_w9NoxbZZS1WR8

Also even the aftermarket tail lights can have this issue with the gasket.

u/Mjolnir-3-9 · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

It doesn't answer your question, but if I were you I'd order some fuel stabilizer online. Fill up the tank to the tip-top and put that in.

Fuel stabilizer will keep your gas "fresh" for up to 2 years, so you should make it through a few months just fine. Just make sure to top off your tank and re-add the appropriate amount of stabilizer after a ride.

u/Whind_Soull · 2 pointsr/preppers

Sta-Bil allows gas to be stored up to two years. I'd half that time just to be safe. To avoid it ever going bad, just cycle your stored gas through your car and replace it.

u/Elgand · 2 pointsr/PS4

I don't intend to contradict the above answer, because it is certainly a viable and good solution. I would go one step further and purchase electric contact cleaner.

This is what I use

This contains no water and will clean it up with no issue. It is more expensive, but I have been happy to have it on more than one occasion. Make sure you don't get any on the joysticks though, it leaves a white residue on soft plastic. The residue can easily be cleaned, but it is annoying.

u/Dewey_the_25U · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Probably, you can take it apart and see if there's any corrosion and use it a little bit of contact cleaner with a brush to remove it.

Cleaner
https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05103-Electronic-Cleaner-11/dp/B000BXOGNI/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=computer+contact+cleaner&qid=1563093666&s=automotive&sr=1-4

Brush
https://www.amazon.com/Gold-Label-Detailing-Fiberglass-Electrical/dp/B07B7YSS76/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=fiberglass+brush&qid=1563093712&s=automotive&sr=1-1


I use the brush and contact cleaner at work whenever components get wet and have started coating what I can with a Nonconformal Silicon Coating to try and save me some of the headache. It's not ideal, but yey. =/

u/rotopenguin · 2 pointsr/thinkpad

I have had a memory socket go bad once, it happens. It could also be some crap on a contact. Worth trying some contact cleaner (get a can, you'll find other places to use it), gently spritz down a dimm edge, and work it in and out a bit. Give the stuff a little time to dry off before turning your system on again.

​

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05103-Electronic-Cleaner-11/dp/B000BXOGNI/

u/moondawg25 · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

CRC 05103 QD Electronic Cleaner -11 Wt Oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BXOGNI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_lfmjDb174YANM --- what I use. Lasted me a year now and pretty good use. Still feels full.

u/yoyomah20 · 2 pointsr/fordfusion

to get to the camera you need to remove the lining on the inside of the trunk (the tailgate, movable piece). You have to remove both tail lights attached to the movable piece of trunk (3 11mm bolts each), then remove the long piece of body that stretches between the tail lights under the ford logo. This is held in by 4 10mm bolts that can be seen through the little openings in the metal (you'll know what I am talking about once you get this far). Then you can pull on the long piece of bodywork that the camera and trunk release button are attached to. Then you should have access to the camera. If its working about 30% of the time, it could be a loose or dirty connector. I'd pick up some electronics cleaner (such as this) at walmart and spray the connections and see if that helps. Good luck!

u/shiny_roc · 2 pointsr/Dell
  1. Don't put it on the fridge. Condensation is bad for electronics.
  2. Don't use a hair-dryer because that will just bake on all of the non-water components of your coffee.
  3. If you have accidental damage coverage in your warranty and are still within the warranty period, invoke it.
  4. If you don't have accident coverage or are outside the warranty period, you can get Dell to repair it for you, but it might cost as much as buying a new laptop.
  5. You can try taking the whole thing apart and cleaning anything that has coffee on it with electronics cleaner and a lint-free cloth. Dell's service manuals are pretty easy to follow. If it still doesn't work after cleaning, you're probably going to need to replace the motherboard and anything else that got coffee damage.
  6. Get a spill-free coffee thermos.
u/Travieso53 · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch
u/Pieman492 · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Have you tried using Electronic Contact Cleaner (somthing like this)? It's like some sort of magic drift fixing fluid. Just use the nozzle that comes with it, put it underneath the thin rubber sheet between the stick and the inside of the joycon and spray. Once I did this and after it dried the single worst case of joystick drift I've ever seen in my life was fixed.

u/AlmightyDog · 2 pointsr/techsupport

I had a similar issue. Not sure what controller you have, but on mine, a Logitech F710, the sticks are not digital, they are analog potentiometers.


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Potentiometer


Basically its a variable resistor. It has the disadvantage of mechanical arm that sweeps against a surface to vary the voltage output. This contact point can become dirty, or in extreme cases, wear off.

I took mine apart, and even though I couldn't open up the potentiometer to inspect it, there were enough gaps in the case of the thing that I could get a squirt or two of electrical contact cleaner into it, and then rotate the stick around to "scrub" off any dirty spots on the arm/surface contact point. It has worked fine now for over a year.

This is what I used.... found it at a auto parts store near by, but you should be able to find it at some hardware stores or online:

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05103-Electronic-Cleaner-11/dp/B000BXOGNI


Just look up your controller's model number and "teardown" or "repair" on youtube, and if its a popular enough controller, there should be tons of videos on how to take it apart safely.

u/Tanuki-te · 2 pointsr/howto

You need this: http://www.amazon.com/CRC-05103-Quick-Electronic-Cleaner/dp/B000BXOGNI or a similar product.

There are little particles of dust between the male and female parts of the jack, which prevent them from making a good connection on one side, and therefore lowers the volume by increased resistance in the circuit. Just spray a little in the hole occasionally, and wipe the jack. If that doesn't fix it, and it's not a software issue, then you likely have some of the wire strands breaking on one side, which increases resistance on that side and lowers the volume. This usually happens right near the jack where you do the most bending. Sometimes you can fix that by moving the jack up a few inches, but it isn't necessarily easy, and you have to know how to solder wires. An electronics repair shop can do it, but it may not be worth the cost.

u/maultify · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

Get some electrical contact cleaner (I used this), spray a little bit in each side, roll/click it a couple times, wait for a half an hour. Mine's been working flawless since. I received a replacement and it developed the same issue, but this fix works.

u/NESCollecta · 2 pointsr/nes

I don't like using Brasso unless it's my last option. It definitely can leave a residue.

Pop open the cart and clean the contacts with fast evaporating contact cleaner. Set the PCB on a spongy mousepad and use a high polymer white eraser to loosen up the gunk.

u/verywise · 2 pointsr/ender3

I picked up mine from a RC hobby store, and it's branded for RC stuff:

T. A. Emerald Performance Plus 4, TAE4200 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BMQGE24

I don't really have a preference for this brand. I'd just get something like this, since they are all pretty similar:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BXOGNI

u/Myname345 · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Have you tried contact spray? It has worked for a lot of people. Blast it with this stuff https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05103-Electronic-Cleaner-11/dp/B000BXOGNI

u/mikey2style · 2 pointsr/AstroGaming

Like this?

CRC 05103 QD Electronic Cleaner -11 Wt Oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BXOGNI/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_G5QRDbE4F92RA

First ive heard of this but looks like it has other uses.

Thanks for the tip!

u/HalifaxSamuels · 2 pointsr/oneplus

You could always attempt to fix it yourself. Here's two methods to basically try the same thing; the thorough and proper method, and then quick and dirty (and easier) method. No promising this will definitely fix it, but it's what I would do first in your case.

If you're comfortable disassembling the phone (iFixit has great disassembly guides) you could always take the switch out and thoroughly clean it with something like this by basically spraying in in to the switch, switching it all the way up and down a number of times, and repeating that two-step a few more times. Give it a little blast of compressed air to help it dry (that stuff already dries fast but may as well help it out) and reinstall it once it's dry. If you dropped it in water there's likely some residue in the switch that's shorting it in one position.

Optional method if you really don't want to take it apart: take a few minutes and just slide the switch all the way up and down a whole lot. If there's residue it might scrape it clean. Both of these processes are assuming the contacts inside the switch aren't corroded, in which case it definitely would have to be replaced.

u/JustynS · 2 pointsr/consolerepair

That's how they're supposed to look, don't worry. The pins don't look corroded, so if you've already cleaned them with alcohol, try to use contact cleaner, but if that doesn't work, than polishing them with Brasso will usually do the trick.

But, I do t think the pins are the problem, I took a closer look at your traces and there seems to be two black spots on #9 that could possibly be a break in the traces. Try and check the conductivity if you have a multimeter.

u/darklynx4 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

It would require complete disassembly of the psu and a cleaning of every component.

The best cleaner is something like quick drying CRC contact/electronic cleaner. I've used this many time, and it works really well.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BXOGNI/

u/don_the_spubber · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I followed a lube guide on here and lubed all my stabs with this lithium grease and it's been great. This stuff is super cheap and makes a world of difference.

u/csteezenuts · 2 pointsr/airsoft

Gotcha! Well as long as it’s the ‘blue’ threadlock one your all set👍 heres an example

u/oldtoolfool · 2 pointsr/handtools

No problem grasshopper. Those stems are actually hard to remove, so congratulations. This makes it easier for the knob issue, now you can soak it in kero laced with PB and it will come, you can also mount the stem in a vice (use scrap wood or leather to protect the threads. As to the stem, clean it well, then when you reinsert it use some Loctite and it will be fine. Vintage tool restoration is not for the faint of heart. Again, patience, and you will overcome.....

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Heavy-Duty-Threadlocker-Single/dp/B000I1RSNS

u/RyanNichols121 · 2 pointsr/Tools

Also for the screw on your towel hanger, try getting some Loctite.

u/JayStax · 2 pointsr/ElectricScooters

Loctite*

....to lock down your bolts. tight. :P

u/joseconseco999 · 2 pointsr/boostedboards

Not a dumb question exactly, you're just not putting in the effort!

Loctite Heavy Duty Threadlocker, 0.2 oz, Blue 242, Single https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I1RSNS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_v9ugzb8P1PS7R

Google is your friend :)

u/Syren__ · 2 pointsr/FidgetSpinners

everyone in the forums is using blue loctite for their bearings because they would like to remove them at some point again to clean or replace the bearing. I would recommend using that to seat the bearing.

u/ACroff · 2 pointsr/magnetfishing

I also recommend this. Optionally, a five gallon bucket and an ice scraper for scraping small parts off your magnet also come in handy. Most importantly, have fun!

u/VisibleEvidence · 2 pointsr/Filmmakers

That's the same slate we used on our film. It's a fine piece of kit that Does The Job. The 'color bars' are just ink printed and wear off over a month's use (see pic). It's the same kit you get on Amazon, they're just shipping directly from China.

Pro Tip: Put Loctite on the screws at the hinge of the sticks. They don't have washers and they fall off during production.

u/RoadRunner-007 · 2 pointsr/razer

Go buy some thread locker or something like it. Take the screws out, put a little on and you shouldn't have this problem anymore. This stuff: https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Blue-Threadlocker-6-Milliliter-209728/dp/B000I1RSNS/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1486099527&sr=1-1&keywords=blue+loctite

u/user7 · 2 pointsr/multicopterbuilds

I don't think that is the right loctite. That stuff is super glue not threadlocker. Threadlocker isn't permanent like super glue.
I personally use the blue.

u/JohnBooty · 2 pointsr/headphones

I have those stands too. They're nice!

If they're wobbly for you, I would recommend unscrewing it and dabbing a little Loctite on the screws. Worked wonders for me. Handy stuff to have around in general, saves my butt a few times per year.

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Threadlocker-Red-0-20-209741/dp/B000I1RSNS/

u/Singular_Thought · 2 pointsr/onewheel

You need to use Threadlocker when you put any screw, nut or bolt into a machine that will experience vibration.


Loctite Heavy Duty Threadlocker, 0.2 oz, Blue 242, Single https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I1RSNS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jVNKDb3XDSN8F

u/pizzaazzip · 2 pointsr/balisongs

I don't have any balisongs with screws but I've seen around this subreddit people recommending blue loctite and roughly following the procedure outlined this video. I've used this product on many types of small screws like knives and it seems to work well (even though the tube is red, it is the blue specification).

I upvoted you so hopefully someone with experience could either disprove me or back me up.

u/HandymanBrandon · 2 pointsr/handyman

How often do you change the blade on the squeegee? You can put loctite on the threads of the screws, but it might take a bit of effort to get them back off if you have to change the rubber piece very often.

u/Dreble · 2 pointsr/nissanfrontier

I had the same problem. I put a little loctite on mine and left off the lock washer.

u/pleikunguyen · 2 pointsr/ElectricSkateboarding

Yep, no new gear or anything needed.
Keep in mind you have to swap out the AT gear and and retension belts when swapping to the street gear.

By the way, buy this before your board arrives.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000I1RSNS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I swapped from AT to Street and unlocked some of the screws too far so I lost the loctite and my tension would come loose in 30 seconds of riding and I'd be like UGH and then I had to uber home. Today after 12 hours of sealing it, 11 miles and tension is still great

u/Palerthanghosts · 2 pointsr/Glocks

I got this, this, this, and this. If you're doing it only once then it may be worth it, but if you're gonna do it for multiple sights then you might wanna get the tools.

u/phototristan · 2 pointsr/boostedboards

Be sure to clean the screw threads first with acetone. This will remove any old Loctite or dirt so that the new Loctite will adhere. Use Blue Loctite: http://amzn.to/2xpsbl6 but only a small amount, don't over do it.

u/Guygan · 2 pointsr/DIY
u/flaminglasrswrd · 2 pointsr/chemistry

Try brake parts cleaner. The kind that contains tetrachloroethylene, which is a dry cleaning fluid. It won't disturb the paper. Idk about the ink, but it is worth a try.

u/MegaStoke · 2 pointsr/tradclimbing

I'm probably gonna die, but I use a quick blast of automotive brake parts cleaner to get my cams clean, dry them with compressed air, and apply Liquid Wrench Teflon spray lube. Seems to get the cams good and clean without scrubbing, and keeps things nice and smooth operating for a long time without attracting gunk.

u/xSquawk · 2 pointsr/Miata

haha, i guess so. I went with the highly recommended ford motorcraft one. Here's the link on amazon

u/fauxreality · 2 pointsr/Miata

Not to debate- but the motorcraft XT-M5-QS "Full synthetic manual transmission fluid" is the "unicorn tears" fluid that most enthusiasts recommend in the 6spd. Shit is expensive tho.

http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Ford-XT-M5-QS-Synthetic-Transmission/dp/B000NUES82

u/jamblaell · 2 pointsr/Miata

A lot of people recommend the Ford Motorcraft gear oil for Miata manual transmissions. https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Ford-XT-M5-QS-Synthetic-Transmission/dp/B000NUES82

It's an expensive fluid, but it should help.

Here's some more reading: http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=500310

u/funnythebunny · 2 pointsr/Miata

http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Ford-XT-M5-QS-Synthetic-Transmission/dp/B000NUES82 is what I use in mine and has made shifting a delight.

u/Boleo · 2 pointsr/Miata

It does sound like 'a loose clutch cable,' which in this case is actually leaky clutch cylinders since it's hydraulic. I have not heard of so many clutch slave cylinder replacements as with these cars (the one on my car leaked when I bought it).

Only when it's cold could mean it's the transmission fluid instead. You can try changing the transmission fluid and shifter turret fluid. The first one is expensive but people seem to like it. It's not like I've tried tons of different transmission fluids so I can't really comment on which one's better/best. I think people have also had luck using the second one but I'm not sure. There's lots of posts on this.

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Ford-XT-M5-QS-Synthetic-Transmission/dp/B000NUES82

https://www.amazon.com/Pennzoil-Synchromesh-Manual-Transmission-Fluid/dp/B0002KL098

It might be one or both of these things but it's a bit difficult to say which one might help.

u/joelunchbucket · 2 pointsr/Miata

There is a particular synthetic manual transmission fluid from Ford that everyone recommended on the forums. I bought some from my local Ford dealer (it's a bit expensive) and it felt like it helped the 1-2 shift. Read the reviews on the Amazon product page from all the miata owners. edit: it did not totally cure it, but I can get it to not crunch if I put it in gear gently and let the synchros do their thing. Still crunches with hard shifts most of the time.

u/rockydbull · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards
u/meh-guy · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Hi, I want to try to build my first custom mechanical keyboard soon. I think I have everything sorted out, but I want to know if I'm making any mistakes. This is my part list:

  • DZ65RGB kit, with brass plate. Also with the upgrade to GMK screw-in stabilizers you can select when buying it.
  • Zealios v2 62g. Everyone seems to like these, so I thought I'd try them. I chose the lightest weight because I want it to have faster actuation for gaming.
  • Keycaps? I haven't found a keycap set I really liked. I wanted DSA profile, but I couldn't find a PBT set with a color scheme I liked. If anyone has any suggestions, I'd like to hear them.
  • Super Lube mixed with other super lube to lube the switches. The most common lube is a bit too expensive, and I found someone who used this as a cheaper alternative. It seemed to work for them.
u/Aezoc · 2 pointsr/hotas

I just used Super Lube on an old stick I'm tearing down and rebuilding. It works fine, although since I just did it I don't know yet how long it will last.

u/jescereal · 2 pointsr/flashlight

I personally just use silicone grease from home depot, but I've read great things about Super Lube.

u/Samurai_TwoSeven · 2 pointsr/airsoft

Super Lube Grease and Oil

u/gilbadon · 2 pointsr/MTB

Simple bike maintenance you need a multitool with:
allen wrenches (metric 2mm, 2.5mm, 3mm, 4mm, 5mm, 6mm, 8mm)
screwdrivers (flat, Phillips, and Torx T-25)


With that alone, you can do most minor bike maintenance. You SHOULD however also buy some lube for bolts, nuts, pivots and more. Almost anytime you take something apart that is not the chain, when putting it back on you want to lube it. I use the following:
https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1519748163&sr=8-1&keywords=superlube

You also want chain lube. A must have if you want your drive train to last which is basic maintenance as well. You can buy a crap brush to clean it on a regular basis or a full blown kit.

Tire levers and a pump or compressor are also a must. There is always one reason or another why a tire will need to be removed.

u/XTechHeroX · 2 pointsr/airsoft
u/tealplum · 2 pointsr/Audi

The EGR system is just a bunch of hoses. Look at the diagram on this page and check those hoses for brittleness, leaks, or cracks. Also check the check valves. Over time they can look like they are almost melting? It's hard to explain, but if you know what they are you'll know what I'm talking about when you see it. There's also an "L" shaped plastic hose that comes out of the crankcase. Check it. It has a tendency to explode. Not a big deal if it does, you just lost HP and MPG til it's fixed. Oh and you leak oil.

Look at this preventative maintenance guide that a guy on the Audi forums posted. Read through each of them to learn about the car and check for them while inspecting.

If you are into DIY stuff, check the [Audi DIY] (http://www.audidiy.com/b6a4.html) site. If you can't find it, google it. There's probably a writeup somewhere.

LPTs:

  • If you drive with a heavy foot you'll get around 18 MPG. Drive nicely and you can get 25 or so.

  • Never put anything less than 91 octane fuel in it. If you absolutely must, go into the store and buy octane booster.

  • Always use synthetic oil, and make sure you buy the larger filter. WIX makes a decent one for a good price. Also make sure you use the right type of oil. I used Royal Purple for a year until I got some pretty bad sludge. Yeah it's not on the list. Oils on the list have addatives that mitigate engine sludging.

  • Buy yourself some lithium grease and use it on your door hinges and sunroof each time you change your oil. The doors get squeaky and the sunroof can get choppy.

  • The turbo on the 1.8t is too small. It takes longer to cool down so if you drive like a maniac and turn it off it's going to cook your oil into sludge. Drive nicely once you're close to your destination and give the car 30 seconds to cool down. Or buy a turbo timer.

  • Buy a seat cover. If the seat isn't ripped yet it will be.

    This car will cost you more money than you want in repairs and maintenance. If you like to DIY it's not too bad. I saved 700 dollars doing my own timing belt+water pump+ tensioners. I still spent 500 between tools and parts but the DIY made it cheaper.

    That's all I can remember from my first post. If I remember anything else I'll add it in a new comment.
u/arcanemachined · 2 pointsr/prusa3d

Hey another commentor made me look into it again. It seems like Super Lube (synthetic grease with PTFE/Teflon) (Amazon link) is what is recommended these days.

The other two I mentioned before have been used by a lot of people over the years and I haven't heard anything bad about them, but the folks at Prusa seem to be recommending Super Lube these days (links here and here).

FWIW, I use machine oil and I'm going to keep using machine oil. As the second link mentions, mixing lubricants can cause reactions between the old and the new stuff which can wreck your shit.

Hope this helped.

u/Thanhtacles · 2 pointsr/Nerf

White lithium grease wont kill your orings, but many claim that it's a rather thick and stiff lube, thus not being optimal for plunger systems. For any other application it's fine. YMMV, but I generally also dislike it for this reason.

SuperLube synthetic grease is a favorite. Sticks well, great application range, durable. It's thinner than WL, but if it's too thick, my little trick to making it looser is to add a little bit of silicon oil and give it a good mix before applying it. Silicon oil btw is the grease you'll notice when you first open up your blasters; I found out when I emailed buzzbee and hasbro asking for what they use. It's very slick, and very thin. I find making use of both resulted in best of both worlds.

u/kungfu_jesus · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=twister_B01N5IYUDN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

You can find this at your local hardware store. Stab rattle can also be caused by the quality of the stab and size of wire. If you can remove and/or replace them easily I highly recommend genuine cherry stabs with this lube. The thicker wires and plastic used really help to tighten things up. I'm going on at least a month strong and no resurgence of rattle.

u/DocmanCC · 2 pointsr/Tools

I switched from Super Lube (which is great, I use it everywhere) to Permatex Ultra Engine Assembly Lube aka Red Lube of Love for my higher tooth-count ratchets. That stuff is extremely slick and sticky. Rats glide effortlessly, noticeably better than Super Lube. However, it is more quiet, so if you're the kind who feels or listens for the clicks you may not like it as much.

u/GooberMcNutly · 2 pointsr/IAmA

I haven't fixed those in particular, but a fat blob of o-ring compatible grease will keep most in place until assembly. For water o-rings I like Super Lube

u/portedtoreality · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I think the same machine oil you use for CNC will work, but I use sewing machine oil to lube the X and Y rods (couple drops) whenever they feel "dry" to the back of my finger:

https://www.amazon.com/4-oz-Sewing-Machine-Oil/dp/B000H8Q41Y

For Z-axis, I use PTFE synthetic grease (drops all along the Z axis) like this every... 6 months?:

https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI

Also, make sure the extruder gears aren't grinding/biting into the filament too much and getting filament poo poo buildup all over the gears.


Spare nozzle, hotend, thermistor (I've only had to replace a hotend once in 2 years and also because I made a dumb mistake).


Don't be afraid to ask for help when you aren't sure because if you screw up, you may damage your printer.

u/Kabong · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Have you tried lubricating the z-axis threaded rod? It's not mentioned anywhere in the assembly guide, but I found that a liberal application of super lube did wonders for my RepRapPro Mendel. The Z axis used to bind constantly when it moved too fast and now it's perfect.

u/itsZiz · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I wanted to share my first experience with switch swapping. I was nervous because so many people said the Leopold was hard to desolder and this was my first time soldering any thing. But it all went really well, so I wanted to share in case any one else is thinking about it plus some info that might be useful to you veterans as well.

One part of keyboard customization I don't see addressed much is deadening the ping and case sound. Some people add foam to the bottom, but I found going between the PCB and Plate reduces sound a LOT. This baby is stuffed like a turkey and sounds amazing.

I've also seen a lot of people saying how great the Engineer solder sucker is. While the build quality is nice I'm not sure its worth $25, and most of the performance was because of the silicon tip. So I just added one to a cheap sucker and it worked great. I was worried about the temp as it says it isn't rated up to 350c but it worked great with barely any discoloring, and for like $1 you get 3ft so it basically lasts forever.

​

Links -

Neoprene $12 1/8" - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001FVG3CM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Soldering Station $37 - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/STM32-T12-Soldering-Station-Electronic-Soldering-iron-OLED-1-3-Digital-station-solder-iron-tip-welding/32994824865.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.7ba64c4dVrNrn3

Solder Sucker $5 - https://www.banggood.com/Sucking-Vacuum-Desoldering-Pump-Solder-Sucker-Remover-Tool-p-932434.html?rmmds=myorder&cur_warehouse=CN

Silicon Tube 5x7mm $1 - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1-Meter-Food-Grade-Transparent-Silicone-Rubber-Hose-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-10/32986897358.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.7ba64c4dVrNrn3

DSA Caps $35 - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/dsa-profile-Dye-Sub-Keycap-Set-PBT-plastic-retro-beige-for-mechanical-keyboard-beige-grey-cyan/32965815374.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.7ba64c4dVrNrn3

Super Lube $5 - https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=super+lube&qid=1556304495&s=gateway&sr=8-5

​

I realized I really don't like the DSA keycap profile but this was a really nice set, pretty thick and great dye sub printing, way more crisp than my Enjoy PBT Cherry profile set I've been using.

​

I didn't have any lifted pads or issues at all despite me being a total noob. Using a 2.4mm chisel tip and my solder sucker combo worked really well. Just stuck the flat tip on flat side (top/bottom) of the soldered stem, let it heat up for about 5-6 seconds and then sucked. At 350c on my soldering Iron most guides said this was too long but i didn't have any issues, and going quicker left a lot of residue.

Also with the silicon tip I didn't have to move the soldering tip and place the sucker over the stem (doing this fast before the solder cools down is a pita) because of the silicon I just pressed it on top with the soldering iron still heating and sucked all at once. DEFINITELY worth the $1, made the process so much easier.

I also used Super Lube for all my lubing. This is what a lot of people use for the stabilizers as its really thick but then use expensive stuff for the switches. I just used a very small amount (scrape your brush off and then wipe it on so you can barely see it but its shiny). Worked great, no ping from the springs and very smooth and a $5 tube will last forever.

​

I want to do another now! need to decide on what type of switches I might like more than these super light 35g box reds. Maybe some speed switches? And I'll want to do a good solid metal case.

Overall I'm just super happy the whole thing worked without any problems. I get to use my really good Leopold plate/base/pcb (i really like the led under caps/num lock to let you know its on) with switches I like more!

​

If any one has any questions or needs help doing their first switch swap let me know, I'm 1 for 1 haha.

u/gabedamien · 2 pointsr/bicycling

Recommend checking out the vintage section at bikeforums. Some tricks:

An oxalic acid bath for a day or so works well for removing rust from steel (but don't use it on aluminum). Flitz polish, which I used for a lot, requires a lot of "elbow grease" but gets a good shine on things – including paint (make sure the decals are below the clearcoat!), but it does strip the satin anodizing off of aluminum. WD-40 removes a lot of dried-on crud that mere soap and water fail to solvate. If a brake bolt is rusted into the frame, drip WD-40 onto it, use a block of wood as a buffer and smash it with a hammer. If the quill stem is stuck/rusted, unscrew the stem bolt a few mm, use a buffer and smash it with a hammer. - this will loosen the expander wedge. Turning the seatpost (keep the saddle attached) in one constant direction while pulling up is the best way to gradually remove it if it's stuck - twisting it back and forth will gouge it in a particularly ugly fashion. Um... get an adjustable (aka "crescent") wrench, I don't think a single nut on this bike worked with my normal wrenches.

That's all I can think of at the moment. Basic bike stuff also applies, like greasing the threads of every bolt and (almost) every metal-metal contact point (the cranks are supposed to be a dry press fit, though!), and lubing all the pivots & springs & whatnot. I like synthetic SuperLube with PTFE for grease, and a dry chain lube with Teflon for lubricant.

u/bigj231 · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Bah. Save your money and go to your local hardware store. Tell them you want some clear grease like superlube. It's cheaper and perfectly fine for this kind of stuff.

Like this: http://smile.amazon.com/Super-Lube-Synthetic-Syncolon-Lubricant/dp/B000XBH9HI

u/camfunction · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting
u/dankchia · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

> costar stabs are the worst!

Fight me.

They do the job of stabilizing keys far far better than cherry style ones. Way less wiggle, much smoother and if you lube them; Hooh baby. Recommend this stuff. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XBH9HI?redirect=true&pldnSite=1

Easiest way to get them on is to take both plastic inserts, and thread them into the wire on the board. Align them so you can put the cap on, and then do so slowly. Once you get the hang of it, the difference between the two is negligible. Some grease helps with the alignment process thanks to the viscosity.

u/Trollygag · 2 pointsr/guns

Dis kind

Have also used dis but doggo chewed the tube so no mo squeezy.

u/Yonkiman · 2 pointsr/voroncorexy

IIRC, Super Lube is the Voron-approved grease.

u/Wolf_Hook · 2 pointsr/ar15

I've been using this grease on my CH and BCG. So far it's been great.

u/BigTung · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

$80 Zealios V2 67g Switches (These are 20% off right now if you want to get them cheaper!)

$160 KBDFans DIY Kit (Tofu Case, DZ60RGB PCB, Polycarbonate Plate, Stabilizers, Screws, USB C Cable, etc)

$25 Keycaps

$5 Super Lube 21030 (for lubing stabilizers)

Total Cost: $270

​

Next Upgrades:

$30 - Zeal Transparent Gold Plated PCB Mount Screw-in Stabilizers V2

$67 - Blue Zilents V2 Switches (Silent Tactile)

$8 - Tribosys 3204 Switch Lubricant

$75 - EPBT x biip Extended 2048 PBT Keycaps Set

u/HungryMacaroon · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Can I use Super Lube 21030 to get rid of the crunchy noise my aftermarket springs make, or is it too thick?

Thanks in advance!

u/jamiehofer · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Honestly as long as you purchase the aluminum Y-axis plate and use spacers alongside my Z-axis bed leveler you will get just as nice results. If you have a wood Y-axis plate you may not want to use spacers and possibly look into auto bed leveling solution.

I use something like this for lubricant: http://amzn.com/B000XBH9HI

As for the spacers I use aluminum spacers that are (I think) 1/4" OD 1/4" Length >3mm ID. Aluminum while the difference is most likely very little, it still is slightly better. I just would recomend going to a hardware store and finding spacers with an OD of 1/4" and length of 1/4" the ID does not matter as long as you can fit a 3mm bolt through it. Best to find something with a somewhat thick wall.

u/lechnito · 2 pointsr/LandCruisers

I think you're definitely on the right track here!

To really verify your theory, you would need to check the pressure on the output end of the fuel filter when it's cold. Long term, you will need to drain and refill the tank.

Have you tried starting up in those temps when you have a full tank of gas? Depending on how much water there is, dilution might be enough to get you going.

When was the last time you replaced your fuel filter? There might be debris caught in the filter that is making the problem worse. You might also consider lightly smacking the filter with a hammer just in case the Arthur Fonzarelli approach will be effective.

Something else to consider is adding a fuel de-icer product. I don't have any personal experience with Heet, but it sounds like it's a common additive for 60 series rigs in the winter.

u/thomas533 · 2 pointsr/preppers

Get a can of Yellow HEET or some other form of denatured alcohol. Get a 3 ounce aluminum cat food and punch some holes in it.

Next time there is a power outage, put a 1-2 ounces of denatured alcohol in the bottom of the can, light it, and put a covered pot with water and oatmeal on to boil. Once it is done, eat your oatmeal.

u/The_Real_Roberts · 2 pointsr/pics

Either dry graphite lube like this, available at any Wal-Mart, Target, or auto parts store, or if you want the really good stuff then try something like this molybdenum-based lubricant.

Either way, instead of just applying it to the outside of the hinge like you can with WD-40 (because it's a penetrating oil and will sink into the joints), with either of the above you would want to remove the pins from the hinges, anoint the pins with the lube, and then rehang the door.

At that point you can prepare to enjoy years of squeak-free hinges.

On the other hand, at my house the dreaded previous owner sprayed all the hinges with WD-40. I 100% guarantee they were smooth and silent for days or even weeks afterward.

Then the WD-40 dried in place, created a thin layer of basically lacquer inside the hinge, that layer was then ground into sharp particles of lacquer dust by the moving hinge parts, and those dust particles served as abrasives which ground the interior surfaces of the hinge into metallic dust. Yes, dust. It seeps from every hinge in the house, if you run your finger along the hinge you get metallicized and it won't wash off for days, and boy howdy do they all squeak ridiculously.

Please please please don't ever WD-40 a hinge, unless it belongs to a bad person you don't have the guts to kill.

u/DrColdReality · 2 pointsr/answers

If all you need is some graphite, and don't care where it comes from, a pencil is mostly graphite, and you can get graphite powder as a lubricant.

Making synthetic graphite requires serious lab gear, AFAIK, they superheat carborundum to produce it.


u/JOHNREDCORN · 2 pointsr/bicycling

You actually shouldn't use a liquid lubricant on a lock, it will attract and build up dust. Use graphite.

u/knoxer0 · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Sorry... I've read this several times and I don't really know what you're wanting to do....

I do know that graphite dust isn't poisonous though, it's a very common lubricant, I've used it before amazon.com/Powdered-Graphite-Lubricant

As far as being able to form graphite into shapes, I don't think that's going to work unless you have a high temp furnace and perhaps a hydraulic press....

u/Symbolis · 2 pointsr/pics

Just..not in locks please.

You want this stuff or similar.

u/xj4me · 2 pointsr/CherokeeXJ

Have you tried lubricating it with dry graphite?

My ignition cylinder would bind too. All lock cylinders need to be lubricated periodically. Like once a year. Hammering it will only cause more damage

u/kevinpdx · 2 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

Thank you! So I just removed everything, the dash lid and the center console lid; fortunately they both had a separate section underneath that could be unscrewed where I was able to tuck away the excess fabric. I cleaned it really well with 99% isopropyl alcohol (this discolored the vinyl or whatever it was, so if you intend on taking it off and going back to stock I would advise to maybe just use dish soap). I found the fabric I wanted - Pendleton wool which is a high quality wool from the Pacific Northwest if you haven't heard of it. Since it is constantly exposed to sun, I would advise going with a higher quality fabric in hopes it would minimize fading quickly. After cleaning the area, I used Elmers Craftbond Adhesive but if I do it again I would use something stronger like a 3M product... maybe even 3M Headliner and Fabric Adhesive. Spray that over the large surface area where you will be applying the fabric, you have a little time before it sets so spray and apply your fabric but get it centered and positioned where you want rather quickly --- this is the time you will also want to stretch it out to avoid ripples in the fabric. Finally I used a hot glue gun but any craft Adhesive would work to secure the fabric corners and edges that were tucked away under the cosmetic area -- again I was able to unscrew a plastic piece where I applied the hot glue/adhesive to secure the fabric better. I cut away the excess fabric and screwed it all together which also helped make the fabric taut. Be generous with the initial aerosol fabric adhesive on the cosmetic side - depending on how thick the fabric is you might want to be careful to not soak a thin fabric with it. I used enough that I could slightly feel the adhesive through the wool but it didn't affect anything. The corners were tough, but I let the spray adhesive dry and it allowed me to pull on it to make it a lot more taut which got the ripples out as well as letting me square the edges and apply the hot glue. Sorry for making this super long - I might be making it sound difficult, but it actually was really easy to do. Shit now that I think about it, I used some forum walk through to do it - I'll try to find it and post an edit with it.

Edit: fixed links and added walk through I found on a Subaru forum, he used seat fabric from an STI but go to any fabric store and pick out your own! You could probably also add a foam layer in between to pad your elbow - I'm sure you could also find that at a fabric store or even Amazon. My next project is actually to go to my wood elf father in law and make a modified center console lid and then wrap that with Pendleton wool, I want to add a cup holder and a few other things - maybe an area to stash my CB and some camping gear.

u/Sh1fty3yedD0g · 2 pointsr/Volvo

Spend $15 and fix it the right way... you're welcome..

3M 38808 Headliner and Fabric Adhesive - 18.1 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004MEBENM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_amVpDb49MJPV1

u/Allehagelnjuif · 2 pointsr/Volkswagen

I would scrap off the foam. I would worry about the long term adhesion if you don't.

Use the 3M spray. 3M 38808 Headliner and Fabric Adhesive - 18.1 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004MEBENM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nTD2xb2DCYPN2

Also, get some sort of roller to smooth everything out.

u/walkersm · 2 pointsr/mechanics

Headliner material is very thin so any heavy adhesive will bleed through. THought I heard of one available at craft stores that is very good and does not bleed through fabric.

Maybe something specific for it like: http://www.amazon.com/3M-38808-Headliner-Fabric-Adhesive/dp/B004MEBENM

u/_eHEL · 2 pointsr/Gameboy

Hit it with this stuff it works wonders and will show you right where any hidden corrosion is on solder points.

u/octothorpeFADA5E · 2 pointsr/mobilerepair

Electrical Contact Cleaner Amazon Example

u/mvanvrancken · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Don't use regular WD40. The electrical contact cleaner is a separate product sold by them. I am not sure what would happen if you sprayed the regular stuff on it but I'm sure nothing good. I've edited my comment to include the link, but here it is again

u/pleasegoanddie · 2 pointsr/Switch

WD40 Company 300554 Specialist Contact Cleaner Spray - 11 oz. with Smart Straw https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AF0OFVU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FTnJDbM1B9S8V

u/expanding_crystal · 2 pointsr/CircuitBending

Hey, that’s progress!

Try resoldering the connectors on the back of those. They might have come loose from the mechanical pressure over time.

As for cleaning the buttons themselves, I have some stuff that I use for dodgy buttons and scratchy pots. Not exactly this, but it’s from from RadioShack which doesn’t exist anymore. Probably this is similar and would do the job:

https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Electrical-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00AF0OFVU/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1541714656&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=electrical+contact+cleaner&dpPl=1&dpID=41yj73g%2B%2BlL&ref=plSrch

I’d resolder the connections, then spray this stuff in there and click the buttons like a hundred times.

Worst case scenario, those little black buttons are a standard part you can replace.

u/JRockPSU · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Not all joycons who wander are lost.

Seriously though, try some electrical contact cleaner, use a toothpick or tiny flathead screwdriver to pry up the dust cap under the analog stick (it's a very thin rubber material), stick the nozzle inside, and spray a few times, then move the analog stick all around for a minute. Let it dry, and then that should, at least for a while, fix the problem.

u/zephyrus256 · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

There's a rubber covering at the base of the analog stick, just lift it up, poke the plastic straw on the nozzle of the WD-40 electrical contact cleaner can under it, and spray it. Don't go crazy, just make sure to get a little bit on all sides. Also, make sure to use the WD-40 electrical contact cleaner, not regular WD-40. Here's a link to the correct product on Amazon. If your drift is caused by dust or dirt getting into the analog stick, this should fix it. However, if it comes back, then the stick itself is worn out and you'll need to send it in to Nintendo for repair.

u/fomoloko · 2 pointsr/gadgets

Electronics cleaner worked for me. No issues in 3-4 months of moderate use.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AF0OFVU?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Just shoot it under the rubber dust covers and let it dry for 20-30 min

u/snowball_in_hell · 2 pointsr/GuitarAmps

Look for a bad bias resistor on the driver card, bad/broken solder joint on the wires leading to the diode mounted on the heat sink, or (most likely) a bad output transistor.

Check and spray for corrosion at every connection you can get at as well.

u/ShaneHaleyPhoto · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Here's a link to the spray I use

​

I spray it under the little flap thing of the joycon(no disassembly) and let it dry for an hour and it's back working!

u/lilcthecapedcod · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

For the joycon's drifting, I found a little spray from WD-40 specifically their ELECTRICAL CONTACT CLEANER (not their other stuff which would melt plastic), really helped eliminate the drift. This is what i used, its $6.75 on amazon right now, which is much cheaper than $70 for new joycons

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AF0OFVU/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/TessellatedGuy · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

You can try:

  1. Updating controllers (Free)

  2. Using [contact cleaners] (https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Electrical-Contact-STRAW-SPRAYS/dp/B00CMT9TFY/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1518364971&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=contact+cleaner) under the rubber cap on the underside of the stick. (Cheap, or free if you have this)

  3. Replacing the stick module yourself (Cheap-ish)
  4. Buying a new right joy-con (relatively expensive, [37] (https://www.amazon.com/Nintendo-Joy-R-Gray-switch/dp/B01MR5R96K)-50$)

  5. Contacting nintendo (Depends, most times free but has the risk of losing saves, but not 100% if this happens nowadays)
u/jeroen94704 · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

For starters, don't put it in soapy water. Water and electronics don't mix well, and you may end up with an even less functional device.

What you could try is is a contact cleaner like this one by WD-40.

u/Inathero · 2 pointsr/FidgetSpinners

Not a problem!

https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Electrical-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00CMT9TFY

This is basically a cheat when it comes to cleaning bearings in my honest opinion. Expose the bearing (remove the caps), aim the nozzle angled to the bearings as if you were drying them with compressed air. Get a good spray for one second. Shake to remove excess, and screw buttons back together. Can't recommend it enough!

u/H311K1T3 · 2 pointsr/razer

I'm trying my best to help, i have no idea what the Firefly is.

I just looked it up. Holy shit, theres a USB cable the lights it up.

YOu can "cross fingers" try this: WD 40 Electrical Cleaner

DOnt use water since theres a circuit board inside.

u/dsatrbs · 2 pointsr/kia

rub the seals of the door with silicone grease (the best is Honda Shin-Etsu Silicone, but any cheap tube of silicone grease would probably do fine). I would imagine that pam would get sticky/tacky after awhile and be counterproductive.

u/QuiteARoughCustomer · 2 pointsr/FiestaST

I know some people swear by this stuff to help rejuvenate the rubber. I use this as preventative maintenance on my visible rubber seals, but it definitely won't help restore seals that are already sun-damaged.

u/novareddit32 · 2 pointsr/300zx

Ah I see what you mean now. I can’t recall seeing that for sale anywhere. Is yours leaking or cracked?

When I had a ttop Z and I had a little leak, I bought this grease off Amazon that kind of brought the rubber back to life and softened it up and “thickened” it out if that makes any sense.

Honda Genuine 08798-9013 Silicone Grease https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GD49GTS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6NMYBb6YYEP9N

u/Astronom3r · 2 pointsr/Miata

Since your car is 15 years old it could very well be that your window guides are rotted and falling apart. I have the Delrin replacement kit from RSpeed and it's awesome. Took me about an hour per door, and that's just because I'm slow meticulous. Don't forget to clean everything and regrease all moving parts with ShinEtsu (accept no substitute).

u/NismoGrendel · 2 pointsr/Miata

Thats awesome, you dont need to mangle the cables now.

Unbolt window, pull it out following that guide. Also check out this guide which has some good info to get regulator/motor out:
http://www.blueridgemiataclub.org/technical/miata-window-regulator-replacement-manual-power-windows/

There are a bunch of youtube vids that also show how to pull regulator, might be useful to watch a couple to see different explanations/angles/techniques.

You should be able to unbolt the regulator and the window motor, unclip the clips that hold the cables to the door, then remove both together thru the hole by your speaker.

Pry open the motor case and see if your wheel/cable is screwed. If it is, the quickest fix is to buy something like that amazon link below. I have seen other articles where they just replace the plastic wheel and get a cable made at a motorcycle shop. Buying the part was simplest so thats what I did.

Also, go ahead and order this shin etsu grease:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GD49GTS/ref=sxts_k2p-hero-vn-pb_bs_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=8477664412492203526&pd_rd_wg=HdW1I&pf_rd_r=NMVKGMV6Z0D5G0F3W4ME&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-top-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B00GD49GTS&pd_rd_w=kyo5x&pf_rd_i=shin+etsu+grease&pd_rd_r=1de7bf26-7283-4357-bbce-bffd9e7018c7&ie=UTF8&qid=1527641297&sr=1

Use that on your window channels, the slot the window bushing slides in, etc.

You can also replace your window bushing w/ a delrin bushing - I haven't done this yet.
https://mossmiata.com/window-bush-improved-replcmt-delrin-2

I just cleaned up my existing bushing and lubed it up with shin etsu grease.

My windows aren't perfect yet but they go up and down now, I'm going to tear into both sides in the future and clean them up/replace bushings.

u/reggiebags · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

Buy a can of deoxit and clean around the analog sticks really well allowing some to leak into the gaps, then use as normal and the drift goes away almost immediately.

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S-6-DeoxIT-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU

u/jackholexxxx · 1 pointr/vinyl

Clean the switch with Deoxit.

u/theconceptstays · 1 pointr/vinyl

Maybe try some Deoxit.

u/Expat123456 · 1 pointr/Android

Have you tried buying contact cleaner spraying your button with it? (mechanical contact cleaner, not eye contacts!)

Alternative, 99% isopropyl alcohol. A high percentage (not 70% meant for sterilization)

Well this info is for whoever you gift the phone too.

With the new Razer announcement, I would get that over the Pixel. (for me, much better front loudspeakers are more important than a step up in camera quality)

u/ImpossiblePossom · 1 pointr/DIY

Did you save the old switches? A spray of some electronic cleaner (deoxit) and cycling then several times might bring the switches back.

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S-6-DeoxIT-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469990583&sr=8-1&keywords=Deoxit

u/Vid-Master · 1 pointr/hometheater

http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-Deoxit-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1408995039&sr=1-1&keywords=contact+cleaner+electronics

Something like that would be good for cleaning contacts on things like potentiometers (non-digital volume sliders / knobs) and the inside of connections or plugs or any other metal to metal contacts that carries signal or power.

Using water is a bad idea on any kind of internal parts, but should be OK if used on the outside of equipment, with NOT TOO MUCH water and quick drying afterwards.

u/misterconfuse · 1 pointr/Switch

I used contact cleaner on my ps3 controllers when they ever have buttons that stick, don't work properly, or have that issue where pressing one button somehow presses other buttons. It works everytime. Link to the contact cleaner I use

u/Lev_Astov · 1 pointr/ValveIndex

I lived with those for a couple years and the degradation of connection quality was pretty rapid due to the small contacts. Now I cherish the stronger magnetic connection and larger contact area of the circular connectors, since the need for data connections is so rare, even on my phone where I use them most. I imagine most of my trouble came from the phone and connector living in my sweaty/dusty pocket, though.

If you do suffer connection degradation, use Deoxit and a toothbrush to clean the contacts out. That stuff is magic and I use it for any electrical connection issue.

u/theshreddening · 1 pointr/Guitar

For cleaning the switches get Deoxit D5. All of my guitar/amp techs use it and it works wonders. Had a old Peavey amp with no output, sprayed all the pots which resulted in a green liquid streaming out of each one and bam, full functional amp. https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S-6-DeoxIT-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_328_bs_tr_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=8EA7PTBRTZ95FHRRG0KN

u/2k4s · 1 pointr/guitarpedals

deoxit is even better for dirty scratchy pots. Also works on battery connectors and anything metal. It's not something you use every day. Depends on the humidity and salt where you live (ocean), how much you gig, if outdoors or not. Lots of fog/snow/bubble machines Etc. Also it depends on the type of metal in your connectors and jacks. If they are dissimilar it increases corrosion (science man!). In the studio it's a once every six months chore if the head tech is cool. Once a month if he's an asshole.

Surprised this doesn't get talked about more on here. Someone who has some oxidization on their pedal/guitar/amp jacks and a decent pair of ears can hear the difference after using a burnishing tool and some Deoxit. if you have oxidized jacks this will improve your tone whereas buying a $50 cable will do absolutely nothing.

u/adrianmonk · 1 pointr/audio

> spraying canned air

Air doesn't remove corrosion. You could try a contact cleaner spray like everybody's favorite, CAIG DeoxIT D5.

u/sir5yko · 1 pointr/guitarpedals

For the crackly jacks, a contact cleaner should work -- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006LVEU/

u/CarsonReidDavis · 1 pointr/lockpicking

I've used WD40 with plenty of success on old locks. With antiques, it is often less about the lube and more about cleaning out all the old gunk.

I would recommend getting over your kitchen sink and giving it a healthy spray, don't worry about using too much. If you have a rake, you can roughly rake in and out to get all the spray worked into the pin stacks. You should also mess with you tension wrench to work the plug a little bit. I would expect to see some dirty discharge from the lock when you do this. If you really want, you can repeat the process a couple of times until there is no more rust/dirt/oxidation coming out.

Recently I've been using DeoxIT D5, and it is quite effective. It is available on Amazon.

u/rich-creamery-butter · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

Isopropyl helps, I'd get some of this stuff too. It's great for exactly what you need.

u/LordPineapple · 1 pointr/OffGrid

What about some DeoxIT Contact Cleaner?

u/CrobisaurCroney · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I spilled soda on my numpad a few months ago my 0 key was completely gunked up. I used some of this on it and after two or three applications it was back to functioning order. Note my board has MX Browns on it. It would be worth the try though because that stuff has hundreds of uses around the house (much like WD-40).

u/lnxmachine · 1 pointr/nds

This worked on mine, but only for a short period of time. I fixed it permanently with DeoxIT. Just take off the back cover (you'll need a tri-wing screwdriver) and spray this stuff into the buttons a few times (work the button a bunch between sprays). I did this a couple weeks ago and they've been working great since.

u/IHasIcing · 1 pointr/headphones
u/pixelbaron · 1 pointr/Guitar

Here's a list of basics that I bought recently to give you an idea:

Feeler Gauges

Hex Key Wrench Set

String Action Gauge

String Winder

Contact Cleaner for Electronics

Neck Rest

I already have various sized screw drivers, but if I didn't that would be on the list as well.

The above would be enough to do a basic setup: adjust truss rod, adjust action, get into the guts and clean the electronics. Everything will fit in a beat up old shoe box haha.

Along with YouTube videos, this book is a good reference guide. It has everything from basic repair and maintenance information all the way to repairing a broken neck or trying to repair a messed up truss rod.

u/Goodwill_Gamer · 1 pointr/retrogaming

Get a can of DEOXIT it's actually made as metal contact cleaner! Works wonders on contacts, cart slots, etc.

u/sinefine · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

filling primer will take forever to fill that.

Use either this:

https://www.amazon.com/Bondo-907-Glazing-Spot-Putty/dp/B0002JM8PY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466828734&sr=8-1&keywords=bondo+glazing+and+spot+putty

or this:

https://www.amazon.com/DELUXE-MATERIALS-DLXBD044-Perfect-Plastic/dp/B0076LAVFK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466828746&sr=8-1&keywords=perfect+putty

Pros and Cons of both materials:

Bondo hardens like a brick in 30 minutes and very easy to fill gaps and to sand it away. But it is harmful if you breathe in too much so you need an organic gas mask and eye protection.

Perfect Putty isnt that hard when it dries but it is not harmful. But it is water soluble so you need to seal it after.

u/rilesjenkins · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I don't really have good advice for you there. I've been using this stuff simply because my roommate had it on hand. It's not the easiest to work with but it's been getting the job done. The Punished Props YouTube channel has some good tips for spot filling. One of which is mixing super glue with baking soda (I think) to make it more of a paste. I'm considering giving that a try eventually.

u/PowerUpProps · 1 pointr/3Dprinting
u/Mattgoof · 1 pointr/cosplayprops
u/Kromulent · 1 pointr/knifeclub

Purple is for fasteners 1/4 in diameter and below. That's typical for most knives. Lots of people use blue, it's a bit stronger but still OK.

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-38653-Purple-Strength-6-milliliter/dp/B0002KKTT0

u/cubedjjm · 1 pointr/rccars

Have you tried thread locker? Locktite 222 purple is a good "won't go anywhere". Blue 243 is "won't go anywhere without force". Red 263 is "the screw will NOT come out without heat or EXTREAM force. Do not use Red on small screws. Blue is what I use regularly, and haven't ever had any problems in the 20 years of use. Each bottle will last you years if you use occasionally(aren't in manufacturing). I've never used a whole bottle before losing it.

Check out their own website if you want, and message if you have any questions. Have a good one.

u/StillMind2010 · 1 pointr/rccars

The blue stuff is most common - you'll find it anywhere, but I find it's too strong for some small screws (like the ones you find in RC cars) , so I've stripped out a few screw heads and started looking for another solution.

The one I ended up getting is the Loctite 222 "low strength", which is purple. I ordered it form Amazon.com and had it delivered to me in Canada (east of Toronto): https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-555339-Purple-Strength-6-milliliter/dp/B0002KKTT0

If you do use the blue, use the smallest amount possible and you should be OK. And only use the stuff on metal to metal - it apparently doesn't like plastic.

For what it's worth, I'm the only guy I've come across in the dozens of people I RC with who uses the purple stuff. That's how rare it is. LOL

u/nonothing · 1 pointr/DartsTalk

If one truly wishes to use aluminum/Ti stems is there any reason not to use a thread locker like Loctite Blue or better yet Purple (222). It seems with ORings and Teflon tape the stem still loosens after a few rounds of throwing. With some thread locker you have a real aversion to release from the vibrations of a dart landing.

Worst case you have to remove it. With blue you'll surely need a tool to remove the shaft. Purple could be undone by hand, especially with shafts that have the hole through them to tighten with another dart.

u/taiguy · 1 pointr/longrange
u/prs117 · 1 pointr/mac

They put a purple/blue material on the screw called lock tight. My screws were coming out so I purchased it from Amazon or home depot. Amazon lock tight link

u/Thanks_for_that_too · 1 pointr/Trucks

Thanks!

This: Loctite Heavy Duty Threadlocker, 0.2 oz, Blue 242, Single https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I1RSNS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KNelzbNETSX7V

Versus this: Permatex 24200 Medium Strength Threadlocker Blue, 6 ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002UEMZ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_YMelzb052MTNF

Which do you recommend?

u/teholbugg · 1 pointr/frugalmalefashion

i don't know if this would solve it, or is okay to use on glasses/plastic, but my first thought was to try this stuff:

http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-24200-Medium-Strength-Threadlocker/dp/B0002UEMZ2

u/JouetDompteur · 1 pointr/Throwers

I honestly prefer this stuff here over the clear one.

u/About5percent · 1 pointr/Cartalk

Rtv sealant works. We use it all the time on glycol coolant lines with injection blow molding machines.

Edit: this shit https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81160-High-Temp-Silicone-Gasket/dp/B0002UEN1A

u/Will7357 · 1 pointr/smoking

I’d search for the hole and put some flame retardant RTV over the hole.

Like this: Permatex 81160 High-Temp Red RTV Silicone Gasket, 3 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002UEN1A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RBlYBb9HRP754

u/crackered · 1 pointr/BBQ

I used some high-temp gasket sealer on my smoker (different style), so if the leaking ever bothers you, give it a try. Temp on this one goes up to 650*F, so can be used in most spots on a smoker.

u/xxsoultonesxx · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

I used THIS

u/TaintedSquirrel · 1 pointr/intel

I'm in the same boat. I dug around on the Overclocking subreddit and the overwhelming majority say to not re-seal. You might get better temps w/o sealant since the IHS and die will sit closer. If you plan on re-selling the CPU eventually you will need to use sealant.

I think I will use a few small drops of Permatex silicone just to make the CPU easier to install in the mobo. I don't want to deal with the IHS sliding around.

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-82180-Maximum-Resistance-Silicone/dp/B0002UEN1U

u/becauseMotorcycle · 1 pointr/motorcycles

A little bit of RTV will seal that back up. While this is a temporary fix, I had ridden a Ninja 500 with a torn diaphragm using this fix for thousands of miles without noticing. YMMV

u/LambdaNuC · 1 pointr/moto360

Super glue is far too brittle to work with a silicone like the loop is made of. A better option would be a silicone adhesive like this: http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-82180-Maximum-Resistance-Silicone/dp/B0002UEN1U .

The problem is that as the loop stretches the super glue would not stretch with it, causing stress and cracking in the cured super glue layer.

u/Dan11151 · 1 pointr/sffpc

Here’s the link of the glue:
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-82180-Maximum-Resistance-Silicone/dp/B0002UEN1U/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1541959052&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=permatex+gasket+maker&dpPl=1&dpID=51L1E4q5CaL&ref=plSrch

I’ve only tried delidding with the BoArt one, and I’d say the tool has high quality and definitely easy to use for anyone. The rockit88 also comes with the relid tool, but not necessary imo, since I simply applied 4 drops of the glue on each corner of the IHS and put the whole cpu unit back to motherhood, as the retention is strong enough to keep the IHS and PCB together. Lastly, the PRICE! The BoArt one costs only $12.99 compared with $45.99 for rockit88, so its ur choice! :)

u/DeathKoil · 1 pointr/buildapc

I've been looking at the Rockit 88 for several weeks, and every time I check the website it is out of stock. How long did you have the check for stock before you were able to place an order?\

EDIT: They are back in stock!!! I checked two hours ago and there was still a message about a backorder, but they are now in stock!!

Edit2: Links for those interested:

  • Rockit 88 de-lidding tool for Haswell, Ivy Bridge, Devil's Canyon, Skylake, and Kaby Lake
  • Rockit 88 Re-lid tool for 1150/1151 sockets. This is not required but for 8 bucks I feel it's worth it.
  • Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra to use between the dye and the IHS.
  • High Temp Silicon for those who want to re-stick their IHS to the PCB. Use a very small amount to allow you to de-lid again if needed and the less you use the closer the IHS will be to the CPU dye.
  • Whatever Thermal Paste you prefer. It is recommended (but not required) to cover the four gold pins on the PCB that are covered by the IHS with either thermal paste or Silicon. This will avoid shorts if the Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra "leaks" off of the dye onto the PCB, it is liquid after all. I use thermal Paste for this as it is easier to remove if needed.
u/thareaper · 1 pointr/overclocking

Here's all my PC parts: https://pcpartpicker.com/user/thareaper/saved/#view=BCKsYJ

As for the silicone I went with this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002UEN1U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I tried to put as little silicone on as I could around the edge so it wouldn't smudge everywhere. It worked pretty well. Hopefully you'll get results like I did!

u/osirhc · 1 pointr/ar15

When you did the DIY gas buster CH did you use the red silicone? I want it to be black but I'm unsure if this is the same stuff or not:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002UEN1U/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

I'm not sure, but I suppose I could tint it black later if I got the red...the black one has a slightly different name and I want to make sure it's the right/same stuff.

I'm about to check out walmart to see if they might have it for cheaper but I haven't been able to make it out yet.

u/reboticon · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

What I do when I have an actual gasket I am worried about moving is use a product by 3m called Weatherstrip adhesive, lay the gasket on it and then stick the bolts through and let it sit for 5-10 minutes. Its not thick like RTV its just an adhesive so for tricky installs it is super helpful. You may not need it at all, just a handy tip.

u/Liluben · 1 pointr/DelSol

Swapped my 93's seals for some off a 96. Use lots of lube where the seals sit and on top of the seals to make sure they dont dry out on you and crack.

Get this 3M 08008 Black Super Weatherstrip Adhesive to glue down the corners on the seals where the factory stuff was. This also works to glue the rubber together wherever theres a rip or crack. 10/10 product

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00063X38M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_KwHFAbMDWF6RS

u/11lariat · 1 pointr/Trucks

I've always used 3M weatherstripping adhesive. Amazon carries it, but I usually get it from my local parts place.

http://www.amazon.com/3M-08008-Black-Weatherstrip-Adhesive/dp/B00063X38M

Not sure what to recommend for the back panels. Silicone caulk isn't going to be super durable though.

u/cornrichard · 1 pointr/motorcycles
u/pacoliketaco · 1 pointr/DIY

This stuff: https://www.amazon.com/3M-08008-Black-Weatherstrip-Adhesive/dp/B00063X38M

works great for rubber to metal. I use it a lot at work for small little things.

u/Travoli · 1 pointr/travel

It's really easy and inexpensive to make them. Check this out. Instead of sewing them, I used 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive and magnetic strips.

u/beefcakez · 1 pointr/E30

If it's a guaranteed 3-4 months, no worries. However, when it's out of sight out mind, your timeline may stretch and it'll become 6-8 months, etc.

So your gas doesn't turn to varnish if it does end up sitting longer than you expected, add some Sta-Bil.

https://www.amazon.com/STA-BIL-22214-Fuel-Stabilizer-oz/dp/B000B68V6I

You can get this pretty much anywhere.

u/Gundamnitpete · 1 pointr/motorcycles

> Full winterization checklist: - bike on stands, wheels off ground - treat fuel (ensure stabilizer runs through fuel system, too) - change oil before storage - change coolant before storage - wash, wax and detail before storage - clean and lube chain (if so equipped)


This is hundreds of dollars worth of shit that plenty of people don't have to spare, so I'm gonna brake it down a bit.


> bike on stands, wheels off ground

If you don't own stands, this could cost $400 or more(cause you have to buy them). The point in doing this is to prevent flat spots in your tires, so if you've got old tires you don't give a shit about, just let it sit and change them next season. If you do give a shit about your tires but don't want to buy stands, just roll the bike around every week or so to change where it's stilling on the tires.

> treat fuel (ensure stabilizer runs through fuel system, too)

This is a big one that really shouldn't be neglected. You really, REALLY don't want to have to change an injector because a clump of old fuel clogged it. Fuel stabilizer is relatively cheap at $5 for 4 ounces so order some and get it into the bike before putting her away (let it run through the engine too, 1/8-1/4th of the full tank).

> change oil before storage


I take the opposite approach, changing the oil after storage. For the layman, changing your oil has little to do with lubrication. Oil is a lubricant by it's molecular structure, the actual oil itself never stops being a lubricant.


However, there are a ton of additives in oil to keep your engine clean. Anti-mosture, cleaning detergents, anti-foam, etc, etc. These break down over time and use(3 month, 3000 miles) and need to be replaced. And when they break down, they get in the way of your oil(basically filling it with crap so it doesn't lubricate as cleanly as new oil).


> change coolant before storage

IMHO no point in doing this as long as you stay up to date on your coolant. Does it look bad? Change it. Does it look good? Leave it. Just make sure you look it over when pulling her out next year.


> wash, wax and detail before storage

Wax isn't going to protect your paint from cold temps. If you have a cover, put it over the bike to keep it from getting covered in dust.


> clean and lube chain (if so equipped)

Definitely a good idea, 3 months is plenty of time for a change to get some heavy rust on it. If you're super lazy, at least spray it down with some lube(Not WD-40!) before putting it away.





u/lomlslomls · 1 pointr/preppers

I keep 30 gal of stabilised gas in refurbished jerry cans that I got on eBay years ago. They last for two years and then I cycle them through our cars and have never had any issue with "old" gas. I use Sta-bil fuel stabilizer, twice the recommended dose for each can, and it works great.

Some photos: https://imgur.com/rM7sepe

u/jacksheerin · 1 pointr/motorcycles

Stabil.

Buy some. Go to WalMart or wherever you buy oil and whatnot. They will have it. When you put fuel in your bike put some stabil in as well. They have terms for how much is appropriate, I don't know them. I add a solid dollop or 6 when I fill up. Been doing it for 10 years, so far so good. Stabil keeps your gas from going stale. Stale gas is bad. Bike no run good. Adding to little may not get the job done. Add too much and all is well. It's cheap stuff. A bottle lasts me a year or two.

>

Seriously consider heated gear. It's awesome.

>Any recommendations? my battery is already set up

The word on the street is that Gerbings makes the best stuff, very nice warranty as well. My electrics are FirstGear. Mostly because they were cheaper. 5-6 years of use thus far and no trouble from the gear.

You need a controller. Google it. On high - which is what electrics default too - you'll cook. IMO a jacket/gloves are the way to start. It's what I have been riding in for years now in PA. Pants/etc are all well and good.. but I don't seem to need them much. I may just be tough as nails ; )

Heated grips will do an awful lot and I have ridden through several winters with just grips and a jacket. Heated gloves are a sign from god that he loves us all and wants us to die on two wheels.

Good luck!

u/banjolier · 1 pointr/AskEngineers

For the lazy. Basically, you squeeze the main reservoir and it fills up the upper portion to your desired measurement. I don't know that I'd drink mouthwash out of an old Stabil bottle though...

u/aareeyesee · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

Probably wouldn't be a horrible idea to throw a bottle of fuel stabilizer in the tank as well. When you go to buy the battery just ask where the fuel stabilizer is. I personally use http://www.amazon.com/STA-BIL-22214-Fuel-Stabilizer-oz/dp/B000B68V6I Edit- you dont need the 32oz like 4-8oz should be enough

u/_BEER_ · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette
u/short_lurker · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I had the same issue with one of the linear bearings for my Folger 2020 too. Just like you I had put some oil and grease to try to help it, but it didn't work. I started over and wash it all out with some electric parts cleaner spray and blew it dry with light compressed air (get the QD for plastic safe) and that improved it.

Also try orientating it so the lines of bearing balls sit at 45 degree angles on the smooth rod like in the left example of the first attached picture in this post. I did this for my x and y axis. For z I just lined up both bearings. it really helped.

u/Tissue285 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Was it plugged into the wall? Even when "off" there is usually power still going through the motherboard...

i would remove every component from the case and completely dissemble it. Then I would go to an auto parts store and buy some CRC Electronic cleaner and spray everything down good. Don't focus on one area for too long as it will get cold FAST with this stuff. Then reassemble and give it a try.

u/boosterpackpack · 1 pointr/GalaxyS6

CRC 5103 Quick Dry Electronic Cleaner - 11 Wt Oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BXOGNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JjJ0xbP4E4THK

I use that stuff but anything you find that's safe on plastic is also fine.

u/MeghanBoBeghan · 1 pointr/DQBuilders

I used CRC QD (quick-dry):

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05103-Electronic-Cleaner-11/dp/B000BXOGNI

Seems kind of overpriced on Amazon. I got it from an Ebay store for about $6. It should also be at places like Walmart and Home Depot.

u/UMDSmith · 1 pointr/FordFocus

There has been a lot of good advice. One I can offer is, disconnect the battery, open the fuse panel, and spray QD electronic cleaner in there. https://www.amazon.com/CRC-5103-Quick-Electronic-Cleaner/dp/B000BXOGNI

If the carpet got soaked and the foot wells are wet, you may want to think about pulling the seats and the carpet out and letting it dry, as anyplace that water pools may lead to rust at worst, or a moldy smell eventually.

Any exposed electrical connection can be given a quick covering of di-electric grease after they are cleaned: https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1497446596&sr=1-1&keywords=di-electric+grease

Any metal on metal contact areas that got wet, such as hinges, seat sliders, etc hit with some WD-40 to displace water and prevent rust.

Pull the horn fuse for now to stop it from sounding all the time. The headliner removal is a bitch, since you need to remove all the pillar trim, which may mean removing seat belt shoulder bolts, which normally requires a big torx socket bit. If it is a hot dry day, unplug the battery and leave your car fully open (all doors, hatch) all day. It will really help drying it out.

u/tralce · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

I can weigh in. My girlfriend and I have almost exactly the same home-built PCs. Mine is below my desk, and hers is on her desk. We both vape at our desks.

One day her computer stopped reacting at all when the power button was pressed, just like if it was unplugged. I busted out my power supply tester and multimeter and it tested fine. After quite a bit of troubleshooting I discovered that the area of the board with the north bridge and power control circuit, along with the bottoms of the RAM slots, and the entire back of the GPU, were coated in VG.

I should mention, I suppose, that we both almost exclusively vape my DIY ("Creamy Nuts") which is 3mg max VG with a little TFA bavarian cream and TFA hazelnut praline, no sweetener.

I pulled the mobo and GPU out of the computer, ran to the local auto parts store, and bought a can of CRC electronics cleaner which I used in conjunction with an air compressor and Q-tips to blow/scrape most of the VG residue off the boards.

The machine is working fine now but the whole cleaning process took several hours. When I got to trying to figure out exactly how it happened, I realized that she does have a higher-than-normal-flow 120MM intake fan in the lower front of the case, and everything that had residue on it was in direct line with this fan. This build up happened over the course of about 9 months.

PLEASE be aware of where you are exhaling, when you're around electronics! After this incident I checked my desktop and my server and they are both fine. This happened just because of a crappy combination of factors, but it can absolutely happen to anybody.

u/b_lett · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

Maybe it's just an exception what happened for me, but the electrical contact cleaner I used left a little bit of a sticky residue, so it's possible it did not dry properly after ending up on the pins.


https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05103-Electronic-Cleaner-11/dp/B000BXOGNI


I used the same contact cleaner consistently recommended here, and I can't say it evaporates completely as suggested. On the back it even says "Allow to dry thoroughly and vent before reactivating. Product may collect and pool in unseen areas."


I worked a few years in electronic retail and tech support, and have an IT certification, so I promise I've tried to do my research in troubleshooting my own issues. I've heard of the tape method, and read about replacing the plastic latches with metal latches at the top; but in my case, I do believe I needed more than anything to clean the pins. Any combination of these can only help.

u/Jelzap · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

Seconding this. Electronic contact cleaner is the only thing that has fixed my drift issues on my left joycon, after trying compressed air and a toothbrush to no success. Thankfully it’s pretty cheap (around $5). The drifting occasionally returns every few months on my joycon, but every time it does, I just apply some cleaner, and the problem is resolved.

u/daltesean · 1 pointr/Waxpen

You can try some electronic contact cleaner from the auto section of walmart, if its stuck that will free it, but if the button is broken ... its broken.


Here is a amazon link so you can see what it looks like but it will probably be half the price at your local walmart.
https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05103-Electronic-Cleaner-11/dp/B000BXOGNI

u/water_mellonz · 1 pointr/Gameboy

Make sure you're not suffering from a combo-problem:

.

I clean switches by doing a combination of sandpaper and electronics spray cleaner. I found the WD-40 electronics cleaner spray to be hands-down better than CRC Quick Cleaner spray. But neither one would remove corrosion from inside the switch itself. The sandpaper (facing upwards) did remove both the green battery leakage crap and the brownish corrosion from inside the switch. I slid the sandpaper in and then sprayed the electronics contact spray on. Be careful not to leave any paper shards get loose from the sandpaper itself. Just move it straight back and forth without angling. Keeping it at a simple 90° angle from the face of the power switch itself will save it from tearing off at the edges.

.

Check and clean the battery contacts in the battery compartment. Even after cleaning the switch a bunch, the on/off flickering continued. It was a crudded battery contact that was making it happen.

.

The GBA unit I was working on looked brand new on the outside. The inside had battery leakage on both sides of the battery compartment. Funny how the battery compartment itself was sparkling clean. There's not much you can do when buying electronic units online, especially when a previous owner somewhere in its lifespan wanted to move the unit down the line from themselves. But after many hours of steady work, the light is solid as a rock and doesn't flicker one iota when touching any part of the power switch.

.


edit: also want to mention that the unit I was talking about above did not have any power or lights at all when I first received it. It took a long time to get it to start flickering a small amount of red light. Then the green light started to flicker at times, too, when moving the switch back and forth rapidly. I had to repeatedly disassemble, clean, partially reassemble, put in batteries and flick the switch a bunch.... just to try and get a sign of life out of the thing. Up until yesterday morning, I would've sworn on a stack of H.P. Lovecraft novels that the motherboard was blown. But I had some time last night and decided to play around with different cleaning methods. So glad that I did.

u/ItsNotMeTrustMe · 1 pointr/Vive

This kind of thing: https://www.amazon.com/CRC-5103-Quick-Electronic-Cleaner/dp/B000BXOGNI

I don't know about that particular brand. That's just the first one that came up when I googled. Should be fine, though. I imagine it'll still void your warranty much like opening it up would. But you'll probably fix it in seconds instead of months...

https://youtu.be/0QvOepREO4k?t=5m55s

That's a video of a guy cleaning knobs on a guitar amp. But cleaning a knob is a cleaning a knob, so it should explain what I'm talking about. I haven't watched it though, so it might be boring.

u/ajax54 · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

Mine did this exactly. [This is the contact cleaner I used] (https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05103-Electronic-Cleaner-11/dp/B000BXOGNI/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1535827404&sr=8-3&keywords=electronic+contact+cleaner+crc) and many others have had success with it too. It's also in the automotive section of walmart for the same price.

There's a dust cover at the base of the joystick. Make sure the controller is off, tilt the stick and lift the doughnut cover with a credit card or toothpick. Then spray some of the cleaner in. Move the joystick around then repeat from the other side. Keep the cover lifted while the cleaner is drying.

u/JoshuaJSlone · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

The solution which seems to have worked for most people (including me) is to use just a little bit of this quick dry electronic cleaner under the stick's plastic sheath. As the instructions were given to me, lift up the sheath enough to spray in a bit using the included straw attachment, then circle the stick around a bit. Do the same on the opposite side, to make sure it's getting everywhere. Give it just a little time to dry before using the controller. Since it's hard to spray out just a tiny amount you might get some outside of the stick, but it's harmless and also will give you an indication of how fast it dries.

​

EDIT: And yes, this is a very common problem. One of Nintendo's biggest engineering screwups this go around.

u/BadMantaRay · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

Mine started drifting a bit a few weeks ago and I bought some electronics cleaning spray off amazon that someone recommended. Sprayed into the stick housing, waited for it to dry, problem solved :)

CRC 05103 QD Electronic Cleaner -11 Wt Oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BXOGNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ymPPCb1SAVTVQ

u/Higlac · 1 pointr/buildapc

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BXOGNI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1415633454&sr=8-1

I use this stuff. Like a hot knife through butter even on 10 year old oem paste.

u/ALonelyPlatypus · 1 pointr/FortNiteBR

Electric contact cleaner took care of my joycon drifting. Only 5 bucks on amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BXOGNI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/radiance89 · 1 pointr/Gameboy

The main worry with rubbing alcohol would be water content. I would not try to work 70% alcohol into the switch. Higher alcohol content is more likely to dry out perfectly in a tight space like that.

Electrical contact cleaner is nice because the pressurized bottle will be easier to spray into the switch than alcohol. You can try alcohol, but definitely be sure to use some compressed air and be confident that you have completely dried out everything before applying power.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BXOGNI/ is the electronics cleaner I personally like using.

u/Lone_Beagle · 1 pointr/n64

> flush the button component on the circuit board with 99.9% pure electronics grade isopropyl alcohol

This stuff is the bomb!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BXOGNI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/The_Friskies · 1 pointr/Harley

I wouldn't put that chemical on my tires or get it anywhere near my bike. It's practically lacquer thinner in a can and will eat up your paint and plastics if it splashes on them.

I use CRC QD electrical cleaner. It makes the oil drip right off of anything, is plastic safe, doesn't hurt painted parts of my engine or wheels, and it doesn't leave a residue. It's the best on my old bike when I'm trying to track down an oil leak. clean the whole engine with it, start the bike and see where the oil starts seaping from first. I pick it up on amazon when it drops below 4 or 5 bucks a can.

Dish soap is the best alternative though.

u/Goofball666 · 1 pointr/techsupportgore

Electronic Parts Cleaner spray and hope: http://amzn.com/B000BXOGNI

Next time apply MAX a grain of rice sized amount on the CPU and then spread across the top with something flat. The goal isn't to drown the CPU, it's just to fill in any small spaces between the CPU and heatsink to improve thermal conduction and avoid hot spots.

u/bexamous · 1 pointr/Multicopter

I usually spray whatever I have handy, most often CRC eletronics cleaner or WD40 brand silicon spray which is awesome because its got built in nozzle that doesn't fall off...

https://amzn.com/B000BXOGNI

https://amzn.com/B00631GSSI

Anyways I spray something just to get hardened dirt a bit moist, or in general any liquid will help cut down on friction ... spray motor, then point datavac into motor best I can, not using any attachments or anything and then start rotating motor back and forth. I try not to force, like I'll just start turning other direction if it gets stuck a little... just back and forth is the goal.

Combination of lube + airflow + rotation to sorta nudge stuff / change direction of airflow on a piece of dirt, usually after like 30s motor is pretty dirt free. If after 30s it still can feel dirt, like my lazy side will make me just to force rotation more... might scratch up stuff but will also break up whatever little rocks or whatever stuff is stuck in there. Just try to avoid it as much as possible but in the end motor is like $20... not worth babying it.

u/kcpwnsgman · 1 pointr/GunPorn

No problem. You'll probably be cleaning lint etc mostly from it if you plan to carry it around. I tend to go a little overboard when I clean my guns, but I typically don't clean my rifles/shotguns all that frequently and will go between multiple thousands of rounds before I do.

When I clean my guns I use a mat like this to absorb oils etc and this to get all of the black carbon out of it. I use these to clean the bore/inside of the barrel. I use these and these for the hard to reach places that still have something building up on them.

When you're done cleaning everything, you'll want to make sure you put oil/grease on all the components that come in contact with other parts. Basically if it rolls oil it, if it slides grease it. I use this on the slide/rails where they contact each other and use this in most other places. Then I'll wipe down the exterior with this.

Really all you have to make sure you do is get most of the debris out of the gun, and make sure you have oil on surfaces that create friction or need some kind of rust preventative coating.

u/ShaftamusPrime · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards
u/Polikonomist · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Any lithium based grease, this is the one I use and it works well:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000HBNV58/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_.rnjDbAA02FNQ

u/spilk · 1 pointr/LaserDisc

should be able to find it just about anywhere, it's pretty common stuff. I have this kind, but any other brand would probably be fine:

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80345-White-Lithium-Grease/dp/B000HBNV58/

u/ae0nn · 1 pointr/cassetteculture
u/Vubor · 1 pointr/NewSkaters

Someone here on reddit posted something like this https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80345-White-Lithium-Grease/dp/B000HBNV58 will also work.

​

But I cant confirm this!

u/chidizzle · 1 pointr/longboarding

Can you post a link of the product(red lithium grease from Walmart). I saw your pics back when and looked at walmart and couldn't find it, I got some white lithium grease on Amazon. Did you buy the syringe at Walmart also?

u/Network_operations · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards
u/DaReelEllenPao · 1 pointr/Guitar

If the buzzing is your only problem get some loctite and apply a little bit to all the screws after setting it up. Fixed the buzzing on my Jazzmaster in 10 seconds. Just make sure you get the non permanent type so you can readjust it if needed. I almost guarantee the problem is just the screws not the whole bridge.

u/JohnProof · 1 pointr/EDC

Most hardware stores will have it on the shelf, just be careful not to buy the permanent red variety.

Otherwise, Amazon to the rescue.

u/spook777 · 1 pointr/Glocks

Thats relatively flush which means you need to thread it more.

You’re installing this with a front sight tool, correct? Regular home depot tools will not suffice (trust me I tried and ruined...)

If not, this is a decent budget one that hasn’t let me down in 6 months—my Ameriglo tool has tho

Also get some Loctite

u/CHF64 · 1 pointr/guns

I'd recommend this too.

u/TheImmortalLS · 1 pointr/techsupportgore

screws fell out after i disassembled to install a ssd


i heard that blue loctite is what they use to make sure they stay, might get some soon if it happens again

u/tommyk3 · 1 pointr/guns

You are getting horrible advice and this thread is complete shit. Here is exactly what you need:

Vice.
Upper Vice Block.
Torque Wrench 1/2”.
Anti-Seize Grease.
Blue Loctite.
Punch Set.
Torx & Allen Set.


The reason people are recommending an armorers wrench is for the muzzle break install. Every armorers wrench has a slot designed for installing one. This isn’t mandatory because you can use a regular wrench but you might as well get one because you will need one to build a lower when installing the castle nut.

u/boostedmioo · 1 pointr/boostedboards

http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Blue-Threadlocker-6-Milliliter-209728/dp/B000I1RSNS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462848673&sr=8-1&keywords=loctite+blue
Try to apply this product on the screw which tight the motor mount to the truck. based on what the boosted customer service said, those screws were designed to hold motor mount to the truck, temporarily while the epoxy completely dry. But, thread locker and screw hold motor mount really well. It has been almost 4months after I apply thread locker. and it still holds with any problem. but send them back to boosted before ur warranty ends just for check up, which i ll do pretty soon:)

Make sure to leave ur board for 24hours after u apply thread locker. make sure do not touch or ride for 24hours!!

u/Johnny32757 · 1 pointr/Arcade1Up

This stuff will work and is removable (with a little effort) if you need to remove the joystick in the future. I use it to secure the nuts to the bolts on my car's brakes.

Loctite  Heavy Duty Threadlocker, 0.2 oz, Blue 242, Single https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I1RSNS/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_i6T0Bb9RE5YJ3

u/Pavel_Balisong · 1 pointr/balisong
u/tasty_beverage · 1 pointr/drums

I believe some DW screws are set permanently with Loctite. I may be wrong about your situation.

u/MLDsmithy · 1 pointr/magnetfishing

Yeah, it's just a thread sealant; keeps the threads from banging loose over time (which they do). UK might have a different version, but loctite is pretty prolific, I'd be surprised if you don't have it. Link below off the US market for reference; this is the blue stuff, which will keep the threads from coming loose, but will still let you remove it if you actively try. Another nut could work, but thread sealer is better for the purpose; it's also cheap, and the tiniest bottle will last a very long time. It only takes a drop or two on the threads.


https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Heavy-Duty-Threadlocker-Single/dp/B000I1RSNS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=loctite+blue&qid=1555605929&s=gateway&sr=8-3

u/garfieldnate · 1 pointr/headphones
u/shoangore · 1 pointr/Multicopter

Right, this is exactly the issue that's happening.

There are three solutions:

  • Use Loctite - This will prevent them from coming undone. But you can't let any touch the prop or it'll corrode the integrity.

  • Purchase reverse-threaded motor mounts to counteract the spin.

  • Use M5 Nylocks - This is what I use. I also purchased a simple ratchet wrench. They are cheap, plentiful, and allow you to do field repairs in just a matter of seconds.

    This is what mine looks like. You can buy them from pretty much any hardware store. Just ask for M5 nylocks. They have a plastic bit inside (color doesn't matter). You can bring in one of your prop nuts just to double-check and confirm they're M5.

    I use an 8mm ratchet wrench, the ratcheting capability is VERY important, it'll cut down your swap time by 90%.
u/appletart · 1 pointr/bicycletouring

Cool!

Thanks for the update!

Did you use threadlock to secure the bolts? Bolts wiggle free under normal use, but they don't with threadlock! :D

Also, carry a few spare bolts with you, because even the very best will wait till the worst possible moment before breaking! :(

u/mboyle92 · 1 pointr/Multicopter

There is potential for the screws to release.

Go ahead and get some, it's cheap and will keep your quad from coming apart mid-flight.

u/popechunk · 1 pointr/Tools

strip them with Brakleen and then re-oil them with some tool oil.

u/ssl-3 · 1 pointr/Skookum

Question.

Why does the grease need removed? Greasing electrical contacts isn't necessarily uncommon to help prevent corrosion (and copper loves to corrode in ways that electricity doesn't like).

If you're sure you want to remove the grease, use America's favorite libation: CRC Brākleen in the non-California-approved red can. It's usually cheaper locally: I bought some today at Harbor Freight for $7.

You can also buy it by the gallon or larger, up to (at least) 55 gallon drums.

u/ConsumeAllKnowledge · 1 pointr/Miata

Cold shift: You could try changing fluid, I've heard many people get good results with Motorcraft Transmission Fluid You could also use Redline but YMMV as with anything else. However, it could also be your slave/master cylinder going bad.

To get rid of the lifter tick you could try thicker oil, or try an ATF flush and see if that helps.

The accessory belt could be squealing either from a misalignment, worn belt, or bad pulley/bearing Chrisfix has a video on how to better diagnose the issue.

Are you saying the zipper functions fine but the part you grab onto is broken? Or the other way around? Because you could just tie something on there if it's the former.

u/240pMan · 1 pointr/retrogaming

Superlube Synthetic grease also works great, is safe to use on plastic and is non-toxic. You can find it here, https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518152510&sr=8-1&keywords=superlube+synthetic+grease. It comes in various sizes. You can also purchase a 14oz cartridge of it for a few dollars more but I prefer to have it in a plastic tube.
 
Some people that have used white lithium grease have said that it can dry up a bit and clump up over time. I did a lot of research before deciding on the best grease to use for the N64 joystick.

u/crj3012 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Over on GeekWack there was some special blend floating around, but it was going for the same price is cocaine. I would suggest this one if you want to go cheaper.

u/russiancatfood · 1 pointr/voroncorexy
u/Breadland · 1 pointr/n64

Ah, I did manage to find the grease you mentioned.
It's this one, right?

Thanks for the advice!

u/ChelseaManning · 1 pointr/Coffee

Sure -- i edited my comment to say REGREASE not DEGREASE for the valve... typo

this is the stuff i use

u/phlatcappr · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards
u/elahd · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I also have a self-built i3 that was loud when first built. I was able to cut down on noise by doing the following:

  1. Added rubber feet to all printer parts that touch whatever the printer is sitting on. My printer was turning my hollow IKEA table into giant soundboard.
  2. Added stepper motor vibration dampers (the type sold here) to X and Y steppers.
  3. Adjusted the current on my stepper motor drivers. Too high or too low will cause noise.
  4. Fiddled with bearing alignment on X and Y carriages. They're loud if even slightly out of alignment.
  5. Added a larger, slower spinning fan to my E3D hotend with an adapter found on Thingiverse.
  6. Cleaned my linear rods with rubbing alcohol and lubricated with PTFE lubricant. I used Finish Line Dry Teflon Lube, but any will do. (As an aside, you should also use synthetic grease on your threaded rods. Nothing to do with noise, but will help extend the life of your parts.)

    Also, periodically make sure that all nuts are tight. They tend to loosen from vibration allowing washers to rattle around.

    My next step will probably be using IGUS Drylin bearings in place of my ball bearing LM8UUs, but this plan is on hold while I consider switching to a CoreXY configuration.

    Hope this helps!
u/absspaghetti · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Lithium grease is more for weather resistance and heavy duty. I wouldn't use anything heavier than the ptfe silicone.

http://www2.dupont.com/Consumer_Lubricants/en_US/applications/faqs.html

Honestly though $6.82 and free shipping http://www.amazon.com/Synthetic-Grease-Syncolon-Purpose-Lubricant/dp/B000XBH9HI

That stuff is really good and not too heavy.

u/galoisfieldnotes · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Without lube, they are smoother than other stabilizers I've tried. But with lube, I can't say I notice a big difference in actual use, so the Zeal stabilizers might not be worth the price premium. You should at least get genuine Cherry stabilizers and some lube, though.

u/yanfali · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

So use amazon.ca

u/GTechAirsoft · 1 pointr/airsoft


Super Lube 21030 Translucent White Color 3 oz. Automotive Accessories https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MDXBDbZ1BRJ18

u/gguerini · 1 pointr/bikewrench
u/PaultheSloth · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-Synthetic-FamilyValue-kes-Super/dp/B000XBH9HI?th=1

No idea why Dielectric Grease price gone so weird on Amazon. Have you considered looking at eBay?

u/jakeish_atelier · 1 pointr/ender3

This is what I use. Big improvement in prints.
Super Lube 21030 Synthetic Grease (NLGI 2), 3 oz Tube https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jDe7CbKSHZ7KG

u/Sorrowind · 1 pointr/airsoft
u/oFAILIXo · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I used this for my stabilizers: Super Lube 21030 Synthetic Grease (NLGI 2), 3 oz Tube by Super Lube https://www.amazon.de/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_QLATybMWDFXHH

If you can still reach the points where the wire is having contact with the oring (seems like you can) with a small paintbrush, you can still apply lube.

u/AirsoftSniperz · 1 pointr/airsoft

No, but similar. It's [this one] (https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469891298&sr=8-1&keywords=super+lube) There's a bit of grease still clinging to the gears, in a film, so I think i'm just applying too much

u/ListenBeforeSpeaking · 1 pointr/watercooling

Yes. If you outer chamfer the tube edge, it will prevent the tube edge from catching on the o-ring.

Additionally, you can lightly lube the o-ring (see Super Lube 21030 Synthetic Grease (NLGI 2), 3 oz Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI/). Lubing will allow the tube to go in much easier while still maintaining a seal. You want the lightest coating you can do. I use a foam tip art brush applicator.)

u/Aesomatica · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

You can go with Techkeys, or 1UpKeyboards, or I typically will use Superlube (there are a couple different types of lubricant under that brand, so make sure you are getting the right one) The one I linked above has worked great for me.

Don't overdo it, look up a guide.

And remember to put your stabs in before you solder. I've screwed that up twice.

u/gogosolar · 1 pointr/fountainpens

there are some videos here... about disassembly - get your self some silicone grease and put 'Small smear' of grease on the seal before you reassemble the converter. One small tube is basically a life-time supply - several brands to choose - just make sure it is a clear silicone grease Some pen companies sell it as well - example

u/SirTimmyTimbit · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I'm getting my YMD96 kit delivered on Thursday. I want to clip and lube my stabilizers based on Kim's video.

I can find Dielectric Grease locally here in Toronto but I can't find any Finish Line Teflon Grease, or any other teflon grease for that matter.

Ordering 205g0 will take 6-10 days from Apex. Here are my other, immediate options:

u/unicornloops · 1 pointr/prusa3d

I believe that grease is actually ideal for bearings over oil in terms of longevity of the application and I was recommended some superlube synthetic PTFE grease. It’s pretty cheap on amazon and there are printable bearing packers on thingiverse you can use to get it all the way in the races. (Just noticed you said you didn’t have access to it!)

I actually didn’t have grease when I built it so I used some synthetic PTFE oil on the rods and that has seemed to be fine. From the good article below, the important thing is that you don’t apply different (synthetic vs. non-synthetic) lubricants at the same time. Hence ideally you degrease the oil they are shipped in with isopropanol before applying more oil/grease. However, I read that the shipping oil is synthetic so I just applied the synthetic PTFE oil to the rods without de-greasing. I am just about to tear down and revise the bearings with grease the proper way myself actually.

So bottom line is that if your oil with PTFE is synthetic you can just apply it directly, but the ideal would be to de-grease and then apply grease of your choice.

Here’s a great resource (though the link is borked with the new prusa site—google “set your bearings straight” and it’s the first one that comes up): https://prusacommunity.com/set-your-bearing-straight/

And the superlube: Super Lube 21030 Synthetic Grease (NLGI 2), 3 oz Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7yCWCb21H21WM

Thingiverse link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3328377

u/Metro-Redneck · 1 pointr/Tools

I use Super Lube in my old S-K ratchets. Made them a lot quieter and very smooth.

Honestly thought, I don't think it really makes much of a difference what grease you use, as long as it's not low viscosity so it doesn't seep out of the ratchet.

u/JBTownsend · 1 pointr/hoggit

Save yourself $20 and grab this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XBH9HI

I lubed up my Hog 2 years ago and while I'm about due for a re-apply, it's still smoother than it was OOB. It has not eaten the plastic.

u/zombimuncha · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I use this stuff. It came highly rated by some prominent GH'ers, and it made the stabilized keys on my V80 sound, and feel, so good!

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000XBH9HI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's 10 quid right now but I only paid £4.50, so maybe shop around a little more?

u/RebootRevival · 1 pointr/consolerepair

Depends on the plastic. If you are referencing automotive lubes then yea dont use lithium grease for auto plastics. But for the plastics in analog sticks, it should be fine.
Personally I use this for my game stuff.

u/RyanCacophony · 1 pointr/EliteDangerous

I used this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XBH9HI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and they accidentally sent me an entire box of like 10 tubes (lol) but it worked.

I also found that I needed to loosen the tension plates a bit to et the resistance I wanted

u/thebearjuden · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

This stuff is what I just grabbed. Will be here tomorrow.

u/Unrated77 · 1 pointr/Tools
u/fullstop_upshop · 1 pointr/CampingandHiking

No problem. Go into any hardware, paint, or big box store and buy a can of Denatured Alcohol. Another option is HEET antifreeze, which is sold at gas stations, hardware stores, etc. You should get the YELLOW bottle of HEET, and not the red one, which doesn't burn as cleanly.

u/strocknar · 1 pointr/LearnUselessTalents

It just needs to be a high proof alcohol. HEET actually works well.

u/rusty075 · 1 pointr/AskReddit

I'd rethink the idea of doing it as a loop. You'll be spending half your trip rehiking trail you've already hiked. Wouldn't you rather spend the second half seeing some new scenery? Compared to cost of spending 3 months on the trail the price of a train or bus ticket home is pretty minimal. And don't bother trying to predict the stopping point in advance - you won't know how far you'll be able to hike until you're actually out there doing it, and trying to hike to schedule will definitely compromise the experience. Just wing it, you'll be able to coordinate the travel arrangements along the way.

If you want to experience more of social aspects of the AT's trail culture, instead of starting in MD, hop on down to Georgia and start walk towards home. (It's a <$100 amtrak ticket) You'll be in the thick of the nobo thru-hiker group, and depending on your speed you may be just about on your doorstep by late July. Or, if you start from MD in April and head south (too early to really head very far north) you'll be largely by yourself until you start crossing nobo's in VA in late May. You'll also find that a lot of the hiker-oriented business, hostels and the like, aren't open that far north yet. They tend to time their seasons around the arrival of the nobo herd. Either way would work, it just depends on what sort of experience you're looking to have. (imo, if you're looking for a solo wilderness experience the AT is not necessarily the best choice. The social aspect is what really makes the AT special.)

The majority of At thru-hikers carry either homemade alcohol stoves or butane/propane canister stoves, with white-gas stoves a pretty distant third. Alcohol fuel is the most available of the three, being available in pretty much every gas station, grocery store, or hardware store along the way. Most of the hostels and outfitters along the way also sell it by the ounce - you just top off you fuel bottle and pay for it by weight. Butane canisters are widely available at outfitters, but you do need to do a little more planning ahead. Because you can't tell for sure when the canister will run out you end up carrying 2 canisters - a full and an almost empty - for a chunk of the time.

u/fat_trucker · 1 pointr/cars

You can try some of this

Did it have any studering or loss of power in those few days? I think symptoms show earlier but I could be wrong. Might try /r/MechanicAdvice

u/The_Punniest · 1 pointr/backpacking

This is heet

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0016GXNC4?pc_redir=1414013292&robot_redir=1

I get it for like $2.50 USD at an auto parts store

u/Kross07 · 1 pointr/Cartalk

Have you tried a little graphite into the lock to maybe lube it enough to loosen the cylinder?

For reference, I mean powder graphite like this:

powder graphite

u/Jasonwayne27 · 1 pointr/Cartalk

Thanks, I'll try the graphite powder first. Will any graphite powder do? I looked up this. I will probably try to get a remote as well. Will a remote for the car work right away once programmed or does a car need to have a system installed? Thanks for the help!

u/kankaswag · 1 pointr/BMW

id try something like this

u/WTucker999 · 1 pointr/vandwellers

https://www.amazon.com/3M-38808-Headliner-Fabric-Adhesive/dp/B004MEBENM

There are probably some “store brands” in the auto parts stores, but be sure it’s a heavy duty headliner adhesive.

u/LetsAllBeNiceToday · 1 pointr/Guitar
u/XIIXOO · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

We had the drift issue as well. After reading about the fix using an electrical contact cleaner, I figured I'll give it a try. It worked. Just use a knife to lift up the rubber flap under the joystick, spray the cleaner inside, rotate stick a few times, let it dry. No more drifting. Not sure how long the fix will stay in place, but I'll keep doing this to avoid buying a new controller.

https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Electrical-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00AF0OFVU/

u/Drjay425 · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

I used WD-40 Electrical Contact Cleaner spray you can get it at homedepot for like $5. Make sure NOT to use regular WD-40. A quick 1 second spray under the flap of the analog and it will be as good as new. Heres a link to the right one if you want to get it from amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Electrical-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00AF0OFVU/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_328_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=1HRH2926M4M7210XZ89H

u/MetalPuck · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

Use this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AF0OFVU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_OcuIDbVK9CH95

I’ve had two drifting joycons and using this sprayer under the rubber cap and waiting for 5 minutes worked both times. Much easier than dealing with Nintendo support each time.

u/ipha · 1 pointr/buildapc

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Electrical-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00AF0OFVU

Probably available at your local hardware store.

u/muddisoap · 1 pointr/vita

Not sure about not spending anything but I’ve read some people with other controllers, when they have problems with analog sticks, swear by this spray, it’s like WD-40 electrical contact cleaner and they say it works wonders. Maybe vita stick is different and doesn’t get fixed as well, I don’t really know. But it’s worth a try for 6-7$ I guess.

WD-40 Specialist Electrical Contact Cleaner Spray - Electronic & Electrical Equipment Cleaner. 11 oz. (Pack of 1) - 300554-E https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AF0OFVU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_B5PCCb7P9Y03Y

u/XxZannexX · 1 pointr/vita

If it starts to happen again try using Electrical Contact Cleaner, I used this one. I was having major drift issues and this has resolved it (for now at least).

u/Icecube1409 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I cleaned my pc with compressed air, but it doesnt look like everything went away, I still got this [Contact cleaner]( https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Electrical-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00AF0OFVU/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=contact+cleaner&qid=1558717635&s=music&sr=1-1-catcorr) from WD-40 which has more power and is kind of a "liquid that evaporate" you probably know what I mean. Is it safe to use this on the top side of my GPU to clean it?

u/SenselessTragedy · 1 pointr/xboxone
u/TimesFather · 1 pointr/Gameboy

I'm assuming you're trying to clean the PCB. That shiny coating is an electrical varnish; a sealant to protect the board, mainly the circuit traces. Any type of Isopropanol (Isopropyl Alcohol, Acetone, etc.) will strip that varnish. What you'll want to use is Contact Cleaner (here). It's as simple as spraying down the PCB lightly with the cleaner, and then taking a non-abrasive brush to work it around and remove the dirt/oil/dust. Once you're satisfied, wipe down the PCB with a clean microfiber cloth. Good luck!

u/KidPanda · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

I recently had a similar problem, due to smash. I used compressed air and that only helped for a short while. I recently bought this electronic contact cleaner, gave it a couple sprays under the flap, rotated the stick a couple times and let it dry. And it's been working like new again. Hasn't given me problems anymore.

u/leonhelmle · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

Get this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AF0OFVU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OBGPCbF0J6K7T
And look on YT. There are tutorials to fix this with that spray. Worked for me

u/ZOMBIE_N_JUNK · 1 pointr/cade
u/Block944 · 1 pointr/marbel

Tilt the board on its side and from the underneath hit the motor with http://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Electrical-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00CMT9TFY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462970375&sr=8-1&keywords=Contact+cleaner+spray and let the gunk drop out .. Wait five minutes and do the same on the other side.

I do this on my boosted board once a month havent tried it on my marbel yet as it hasnt made any grinding noises yet


Key is you want gravity to pull the cleaner and dirt out

u/trenonomics · 1 pointr/FidgetSpinners
u/reververaio · 1 pointr/buildapc

If you really need to spray something into your computer (protip: you don't), use a specially designed electric contact cleaner. https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Electrical-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00CMT9TFY

u/Eagle19991 · 1 pointr/arcade

this stuff works well: https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Electrical-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00CMT9TFY , just be slow and careful with the cleaning

u/na_im_good · 1 pointr/DelSol
u/agent_of_entropy · 1 pointr/cars

It's a whopping $1.02 cheaper here.

u/tadfisher · 1 pointr/Miata

Why did you link to the non-prime listing?

Happy Prime Day

u/Coompa · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

You can go over the rubber with a silicone lubricant on a cloth. May help the wind noise.

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Honda-08798-9013-Silicone-Grease/dp/B00GD49GTS

u/Mobile_Version · 0 pointsr/MushroomGrowers
u/eibv · 0 pointsr/florida
u/ShittyFieldTech · 0 pointsr/buildapc

Use this and all the mineral oil will be gone in no time.

u/nmrk · 0 pointsr/funny

I always keep a spray can of Contact Cleaner in case of keyboard accidents. This will solve (and dissolve) your problem.

I recently spilled a cup of coffee (with sugar) into my brand new Magic Keyboard. Oops. I sprayed contact cleaner into it immediately and forced all the coffee out. I sprayed the solution under all the keys, then tapped it keys-down onto paper towels until the solution came out clear instead of brown. My keyboard came out perfectly fine (I'm typing on it now). Accidents like this, with sugar in the coffee, usually cause permanent damage. But not if you're well prepared.

Warning: I suggest you do not buy this brand, which will only cause further confusion.

u/RDort · 0 pointsr/Multicopter
u/Shensmobile · 0 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Don't bother with Krytox. Just get some Superlube grease and oil and lightly mix them to reach your desired thickness.

Grease: https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-21030-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1524756523&sr=1-3

Oil: https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-51004-Synthetic-Viscosity/dp/B000UKUHXK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1524756288&sr=8-2

Your desired thickness is up to the user. I was previously using very thin mixture (maybe 80% oil, 20% grease) which was OK, but I tried 70% grease, 30% oil, and I found that I preferred the thicker mixture.

u/Trey904fsu · 0 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

This stuff worked for me. Just spray it in there and let it dry

WD-40 Specialist Electrical Contact Cleaner Spray - Electronic & Electrical Equipment Cleaner. 11 oz. (Pack of 1) - 300554-E https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AF0OFVU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OBGPCbF0J6K7T

u/madmitch411 · 0 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Get this and spray it under the caps of your joysticks, they will work like they're brand new again.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AF0OFVU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/pretender230 · 0 pointsr/qatar

Hey I have some.

u/namelessted · -1 pointsr/buildapc

I would use a spray electronic cleaner like this or this.

I have found the WD-40 brand stuff at local hardware stores like Home Depot or Lowe's and it works great. Have cleaned off old motherboards and a GPU that had sticky soda all over the back of it.

Otherwise, as others have suggest, alcohol with wipes or q-tips. I just think the can and spraying the fuck out of it is the best first step to get the majority of it cleans and then using qtips for detail work if you find residue.

Also, as other have suggested, take all the components apart and clean them all separately, making sure the contacts and sockets are as clean as you can get.


How does somebody sit on a computer and piss in it? I've been blackout drunk before, but I can never understand how people can't find a toilet or bathtub/shower to piss in. Otherwise, wouldn't you just piss your clothes wherever you happen to pass out?

u/silentstorm2008 · -11 pointsr/Frugal

I have Prime, and even with prime there is a minimum order of $25 or they won't ship it out.

For example i need some grease, but couldn't order without adding more to my cart. These are called Add-on items