Best operating systems according to redditors
We found 624 Reddit comments discussing the best operating systems. We ranked the 63 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 624 Reddit comments discussing the best operating systems. We ranked the 63 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
![Microsoft Windows 10 Home USB Flash Drive [Old Version]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41f+w9nDPRL.jpg)
![Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium Upgrade [Old Version]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41y0loT30RL.jpg)
![Microsoft Windows 7 Professional [Old Version]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41UCO5YLmcL.jpg)
![Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium Upgrade Family Pack (3-User) [Old Version]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41mqYLz8fKL.jpg)
Congratulations! It looks like you just found a nice computer! It appears you're missing a hard drive/solid state drive, SATA cable, and operating system.
To begin, you'll want to get an unused hard drive or solid state drive. These can be found on Amazon, Newegg, or in Bestbuy (among other places). I'll supply links to a few examples below. After you've made you're selection, you'll need a SATA cable. This cable allows you to hook the drive up to your motherboard. The last step is to install Windows. All in all, it's a very simple process albeit a bit time consuming (primarily for the Windows installation).
This is a very simple explanation of an also relatively simple installation/resolution. If you'd like more detailed instructions, I'd be happy to help!
Hard Drive Example
Solid State Drive Example
SATA Cable
Operating System (Windows 10)
Ubuntu is also a FREE operating system that is compatible with your hardware. Most users are experienced with Windows, which is why I listed it. Personally, I prefer Windows over Ubuntu.
It's not just Newegg, here are about the same negative reviews over at Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/product-reviews/B01019BM7O/ref=acr_search_hist_1?ie=UTF8&filterByStar=one_star&showViewpoints=0
​
Seems to me pirates have figured out how to acquire/generate legit product keys. Which is likely why these don't work once you buy them. Blame should be directed at M$ not Newegg/Amazon IMO.
Buy OEM version, they are significantly cheaper even on Pro. They are not fully supported like retail version, I think that means no phone-hand-holding, but if you know your way around your machine that's not actually an issue.
On Amazon, OEM version of Windows 10 Pro is $94.
If you don't mind an OEM license (locked to your computer and can't be moved to another one), then yes. In fact, you might be able to save even more money by starting with 7 instead of 8.1.
The cheapest pro license I could find was Win 7 pro 32 bit OEM on Amazon for $55. I bought this and installed it. I then let it upgrade to win10, but this put me on 32 bit. I then created a Windows 10 Pro 64 bit install USB stick (a free download from Microsoft) and used that to format and reinstall Win10 but with 64 bit this time. It recognized my computer from the previous 32 bit install and automatically activated without me installing a key. This allowed me to end up with Windows 10 64 Pro OEM for only $55. I just checked and it looks like currently both 32 and 64 bits cost roughly the same (about $50), but back when I purchased the 32 bit version was cheaper so that is why I went that way.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LG25894
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LG242A0
Either of those products can be used to get up to Win10 Pro 64 bit OEM for cheap.
I did this back before the new Win10 updates that supposedly let you do a direct Win10 install and just type in the key from your Win7/8 license. This may allow you to do the same trick but without all the work. All you do is create a Win10 install USB stick, use it to install, and then type in the key from the Win7/8 disc. I haven't done this faster way but from what I understand that is possible now.
Chances are you bought OEM licenses. Those are much cheaper because they are not meant to be transferred to another computer. With an OEM license you're likely to need to buy Windows 10 again in the future when that computer gets replaced.
Retail licenses costs more. The major benefit to retail licenses is they can be transferred to another computer. When the computer gets replaced its license can move over to the new computer. In the long run it can be cheaper.
edit:
OEM Windows 10 Pro on Amazon: $120
Retail Windows 10 Pro on Amazon: $190
You can buy USB sticks with a Windows setup already installed on them.
The 'devil' is most likely Microsoft who is supplying the USB stick.
https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Home-Flash-Drive/dp/B01019T6O0
As configured by you (i7, 3TB HD, 4GB video card), the cost comes to $3099.00. I added in 16GB of memory over the stock 8 since that's pretty much standard for most builds, anymore.
5k Dell Monitor: $1,439.99
Retail i7-4790: $307.00
Gigabyte GA-Z97-HD3 Motherboard: $102.95
Crucial Ballistix Sport 16GB Kit: $66.99
Corsair Carbide SPEC-01 Mid Tower Case: $48.99
Silverstone Tek 500W 80+ Gold PSU: $79.99
EVGA GeForce GTX 960 4GB Video Card: $229.99
CM Storm Devastator KB/Mouse Combo: $29.99
Total Cost: $2305.89
Video card was a bit of a toughie since the iMac uses a notebook GPU, so I went with something a bit faster, but comparable. This is a complete system with comparable to better specs.
Given the price difference, may as well go with a 980Ti for that extra graphics oomph or tack on some water cooling.
Edit: Woops! Forgot storage and OS!
WD Blue 3TB HD: $98.70
Samsung 850 EVO 120GB (configured as cache drive): $66.99
Windows 10 Home: $119.00
Revised Total: $2590.58. Still cheaper and could still sub out the 960 for a 980Ti and be under cost.
USB ..microsoft even sells windows on usb now. can confirm, just installed on a new diskless gaming rig
You're not going to get extremely great FPS or future proofing out of it for $750. You could probably multisite to save a few bucks here and there and find some bundles, but I went with Amazon. Really depends if you'd prefer convenience or wouldn't mind shopping from multiple places to compile everything. This should be an acceptable rig for everything you're looking for.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 3 1200 3.1GHz Quad-Core Processor | $108.99 @ Amazon
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master - Hyper T2 54.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler | $16.99 @ Amazon
Motherboard | MSI - B350M PRO-VDH Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | $71.99 @ Amazon
Memory | PNY - Anarchy 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory | $124.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Seagate - FireCuda 1TB 2.5" 5400RPM Hybrid Internal Hard Drive | $55.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | Zotac - GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB Mini Video Card | $144.99 @ Amazon
Case | Rosewill - Galaxy-02 ATX Mid Tower Case | $42.49 @ Amazon
Power Supply | Rosewill - 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $69.99 @ Amazon
Optical Drive | Lite-On - iHAS124-14 DVD/CD Writer | $17.69 @ Amazon
Operating System | Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit |$109.98
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $761.09
Cheapest 100% legal and legitimate way is Amazon at $90
Whatever you do, make sure you get windows 8.1 and not 8, then you can avoid the hassle of having to update to 8.1 manually
If you want a stolen key from a keyswap site there are a couple subreddits that do that, but those are not legitimate keys and could stop working so they are a bad idea
Choose your difficulty!
Easymode : https://www.malwarebytes.org/
Normal : http://sourceforge.net/projects/hjt/
Hardmode : http://siri.geekstogo.com/SmitfraudFix.php
Cheats Enabled : http://www.amazon.com/Windows-Premium-System-Builder-Packaging/dp/B00H09BB16
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor | $249.89 @ OutletPC
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler | $24.75 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | MSI Z170A KRAIT GAMING ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $132.98 @ Newegg
Memory | Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory | $69.99 @ Newegg
Storage | A-Data Premier SP550 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $59.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $49.89 @ OutletPC
Video Card | Gigabyte GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB WINDFORCE 3X Video Card | $599.99 @ Amazon
Case | NZXT S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case | $64.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $79.99 @ NCIX US
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 OEM 3-Pack (64-bit) | $107.99
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1490.45
| Mail-in rebates | -$50.00
| Total | $1440.45
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-03-03 19:10 EST-0500 |
---
Rationale:
CPU: I went with an Skylake i5 processor (i5-6500K) for it's great raw performance and efficient power usage. It's an unlocked processor so you can overclock with it (I highly recommend it, it's a free boost in performance).
CPU Cooler: A Hyper 212 EVO from Cooler Master. It's a nice and quiet cooler.
Motherboard: An ATX Z170 mobo from MSI. It's good quality and supports SLI if you want to add a second GPU down the line.
Memory: 2x8GB of DDR4 RAM. Might be considered overkill, but with games like The Division recommending 8GB, 16GB is a good buffer.
Storage: 1TB WD Blue for mass storage plus a 240GB AData SP550 SSD for boot and a few games/programs.
GPU: A GTX 980Ti graphics card from EVGA. It's is one of the best cards on the market for it's price and should be able to handle most games at 1440p 60FPS+ ultra settings.
Case: The NZXT S340 is a good case with great airflow and cable management. It also has a slick design that's very different from that cheesy "gamer case" look.
PSU: The 750W GS from EVGA is one of the best PSUs on the market. It's very high quality and should last a long time.
OS: Windows 7 as requested. Get it here on Amazon
---
Good luck with your build, OP!
You can tell what the current state of how to licence Microsoft products is when the answers thus far can't directly answer the question.
Until someone else can give a better method and price, Amazon is the most straight forward, legal, way to buy a licence that I know of.
/u/JetJaguar124 /u/Integralds
So first thing's first, Windows: ~$130 for Home Edition.
Okay, so things to keep in mind:
The GPU you should be seeking to use is the 1660 Ti, which is basically a slightly gimped RTX 2060 but without the raytracing stuff. If you are willing to spend a bit more then you could get an RX 5700 instead, which is nearly ~30% faster on average.
That'll put you at $270 - $360 depending on the model you pick. Yes, it's a third of your budget, but the GPU is the single most important part of your build.
Secondly you'll want a decent CPU to go with that.
The Ryzen 5 3600 looks like a pretty good CPU, its a bit under $200, its fairly beefy and extendable so it's somewhat "future-proof" - in that it shouldn't cause much bottlenecking and you could upgrade your GPU past a 2080 Ti before needing to change the processor.
This MSI Tomohawk Mobo looks good for the 3600.
So we're at ~$320 for that, or about $640 total. Plus windows that is ~$730.
The RAM Inty recommended before should be fine. You only really need 16 GB. This will set you back ~$80. If you find yourself wanting more RAM later down the line you can always add another pair of sticks later and double up your RAM.
That puts us at around ~$800.
$80 for a 750W Fully Modular Corsair PSU is basically a steal. It's refurbished though, although that shouldn't be a problem - especially with a PSU.
We're at ~$880.
Some good thermal paste for your CPU.
We're now at ~$890.
Storage depends on what you want to do. Do you install a lot of stuff and files at once? In which case you might want to get a nice sized SSD plus a big HDD.
For your system drive. Plenty of space, good price, AND its an nvme SSD.
That makes for ~$990.
If you need lots of extra space
If you need extreme extra space
Keyboard and case are up to you, decide as you please. For the case just make sure that it can support an ATX mobo, as the mobo listed here is full ATX. Mechanical keyboards are crack, but they tend to be more expensive so they're probably out of range. This will be another $100 to $150 depending on what you pick.
Something to keep in mind though: Your case and your monitors are basically "future proof". In other words, they won't really get "worse" with time or cause future performance issues. So monitors and case are things where you want to consider what you'll eventually want and buy ahead, even if you have to stretch a bit.
This just leaves your monitor. I would NOT recommend a 1080p monitor above 24 in. Honestly, if you can go for a 1440p monitor then do it. I'm a bit of a resolution whore tho, so if 1080p works for you then that's fine. I would also avoid TN panels - they tend to look more washed out, tinny, and have worse viewing angles . . . although they also tend to be a fair bit cheaper than the good panels (namely IPS panels).
I used to own one of these . . . it was vvy vvy gud. This is a relatively artsy monitor, so if color gamut correctness or whatever is important for you for photo or video editing or whatever, then this is a good pick. It's a bit expensive, yeah, but also super gorgeous. It also goes up to 75 Hz. Conversely, get a freesync monitor, and this one is probably good - haven't done much research on it, but Dells are generally pretty good in my experience (my current 4K monitor is a Dell too). Freesync will allow you to basically eliminate screen tearing and will provide a smoother feeling experience because it will even out frame rates better.
One last thing to keep in mind: Shopping around on ebay and other sites can save you a fair bit. My rule of thumb is to never, ever buy sensitive parts like hard-drives, cpus, or motherboards second hand or refurbished. But everything else is fair game. So refurbished GPUs, Monitors, PSUs, Cases, etc. should be fine. Pre-owned? Ehhh . . . that I'm much, much more sketchy on - personally I wouldn't, but that's just me.
So in total it'd be somewhere in the range of $1500 including monitor, OS, case, and keyboard. The system itself is around $1000. But you can perhaps knock off a hundred bucks or two by shopping around and looking for where you can buy these parts cheaper than Amazon.
But again: investing in a good monitor and case can be worth it. It means you won't have to replace it if/when you do upgrade. And worst case scenario you can offload your monitor as a side/secondary monitor when you upgrade your monitor to a new one.
Latest Mac OS Upgrade: $29
Latest Windows OS Upgrade: $109
I will say though that Microsoft is pretty good about long term support of older versions though.
Ugh, don't pirate Windows. Apart from anything else, there's a high chance that a future update will break it.
The full version is $99 at Amazon. If you think that's too much, protest by not buying it, but not by pirating it. There are plenty of really great Mac games on Steam, and on the App Store.
As far as I know, there are three levels of Windows software.
Retail is the one with the fancy, colorful packaging that is sold at most mainstream stores. A retail install is not tied to a computer; this means you can uninstall it, then install it on a completely different computer and you will not be violating any of Microsoft's rules. You can do this as many times as you want.
Branded OEM are the disks that come with pre-built computers from HP, Dell and other manufacturers. They are typically labeled by the manufacturer and come in the paper sleeves. These are supposed to be only used with the HP, Dell etc. computer that it came with. However, it's easily possible to install these on computer you build yourself and a lot of people do that because they can be found online for cheap. You would be violating Microsoft's terms though. But there are no negative consequences as far as I know.
The third is non-branded OEM. These come in thin cases with sparse, white packaging and can be installed by system builders on new computers i.e. the computer you built. The thing I am unsure about is whether or not it is required by the terms of OEM that you sell the computer. If so, then it's intended for small system builders who sell a relatively small number of computers relative to HP or Dell. Anyways, a lot of people who build computers for personal use utilize OEM. OEM is tied to the computer it is first installed on, so you're not supposed to install it on a completely different computer. However, Microsoft's terms on this are unclear and conflicting. Many people, after changing a key component like the motherboard and needing to reinstall Windows, are prompted to call a Microsoft support number where they tell the operator that they simply changed a component on the original computer and they will issue an authorization code to proceed with a legit reinstall. Also, some people seem to encounter no such step and the reinstall is effortless. So, it seems like, even if you change the motherboard in the future, you should be okay with OEM.
TL;DR Get an OEM version of Windows 7 64-bit Home Premium. They are usually around $99 from big stores like Newegg.
Hope this helps. I was pretty confused about Windows versions too.
P.S. It is possible to install a full version of Windows using an upgrade disc. This is another option but is against Microsoft's terms. Instructions are widely available online (essentially use the upgrade disc to install a trial version without entering the product key, then install it a second time and "upgrade" the trial version). So, something like this 3-pack upgrade retail version from Amazon might attract you. Also, the Microsoft student store sells cheap upgrade discs if you have a .edu email address, I believe.
FUUU i wrote an essay sorry
Here are the specs:
Type|Item|
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-4820K 3.7GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler | Corsair H105
Thermal Compound | Prolimatech PK-1 5g Thermal Paste
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-X79-UP4 ATX LGA2011 Motherboard
Memory| Corsair Dominator Platinum 2133MT/s C9 4x 4gb
Storage | SAMSUNG 840 EVO 250GB
Storage | SAMSUNG 840 EVO 250GB
Case | Corsair Graphite 760T in White
Power Supply | Corsair RM1000 80+ Gold
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 8.1 Professional (64-bit)
Monitor | Asus PB278Q 27" 2560x1440 PLS
Monitor | Asus PB238Q 23.0" Monitor
Keyboard|Filco Ninja Majestouch-2 w/MX browns
Keyboard | Keycool 84 (white body) w/MX black
Keyboard | KBT Pure Pro 60% w/MX blues
Keyboard|KBT Pure 60% w/MX reds and blue LEDs
Keyboard|Leopold FC660M (gray keycaps) w/MX greens
Keyboard| KBT Pure 60% w/MX whites
Mouse | Mionix Naos 5000 Wired Laser Mouse
Video Card| XFX 290 DD Black edition
Video Card| XFX 290 DD Black edition
Headphones| AKG K702
Headphones| Beyerdynamic DT990 Pro 250Ohm
Headphones | Beyerdynamic DT770 Pro 250Ohm
Headphone stand| Woo Audio HPS-HB
Headphone stand| Just Mobile Aluminum
Microphone|Samson Meteor Studio Mic
DAC| Schiit Modi
AMP|Schiit Magni
Speakers|JBL LSR305 5-inch Two-Way Pair
Fan| 3x Corsair SP120 Quiet edition PWM
Fan| 3x Corsair AF140 Quiet edition
Router|Netgear AC1750 R6300v2
Modem|Motorola SB6141 DOCSIS 3.0 Cable Modem
Custom Cables|Made by /u/Lavins
Big thanks to Corsair for sponsoring most of this rig.
Here's the review of the case I released a couple of days ago
>Previous versions of the operating system did not require a first-world internet connection to work.
Um, just like all previous version of Windows, one can buy a retail CD to install it. It depends on where/how you purchased it.
So, I now "shift blame" onto your choice when you bought it.
Lets look at the Dell Optiplex GX280 Full Tower. According to CNet it came out June of 2004 so lets just pretend that was ten years ago instead of eleven. My parents bought a Dell Dimensions 8300 sometime around 2003 which had two SATA ports on the motherboard (The hard drive and CD drive were IDE) but since I never got it to work, I'll skip to the all SATA model. This is what I would do to determine the reasonable upgrade cost.
So here are all the cost estimates.
Total Cost = 296.54 with all extra costs added. Someone not as throughout as myself can cut costs on a lot of the things on this list. I would show this breakdown to the customer and explain why it might be more cost efficient to purchase a new machine (or have me build them one) and we could go from there.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $189.99 @ Amazon
Motherboard | MSI Z87-G41 PC Mate ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $49.99 @ Newegg
Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $79.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $53.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | PowerColor Radeon R9 270 2GB TurboDuo Video Card | $99.99 @ Newegg
Case | Corsair SPEC-01 RED ATX Mid Tower Case | $39.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Corsair Builder 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | $25.00 @ Newegg
Other| Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit | $99.99
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $638.93
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-11-08 17:25 EST-0500 |
Buy this then https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-English-Flash-Drive/dp/B075RM5BHV?keywords=windows+10&qid=1539137923&sr=8-2&ref=sr_1_2
It comes with a usb stick to install from.
> but you can't just but a new OEM key. OEM keys can only be purchased with a new computer (or significant amount of hardware)
Yes you can... you can even buy them on Amazon all by itself.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EDSI7QO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1466266979&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=windows+8&dpPl=1&dpID=31oGjt4LCTL&ref=plSrch
When you buy a computer, the OS is in the cost. When you build a Computer, you still have to pay. Even if it's upgrading an old os.
getchasum
https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Home-Flash-Drive/dp/B01019T6O0
http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Premium-Upgrade-Family/dp/B002MV2MG0
Home Premium is 160 for 3 licenses.
It's $99 if you build your own computer.
http://www.amazon.com/Windows-Premium-64bit-System-Builder/dp/B004Q0PT3I/ref=dp_cp_ob_sw_title_0
For what you want to do, you'll want to get the Full edition. (From all standpoints.. licensing, cost, and being able to transfer the license to another system later on). Amazon has it the cheapest. The Full edition also comes with both x86 and x64 media. (If you have a netbook with no ODD, you can use the online installer also linked below)
http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-8-1-Full-Version/dp/B00EDSI7QO
http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-8/upgrade-product-key-only
Don't go to /r/softwareswap or any other place where you're buying keys for like $10-$30. Those are almost always being sold illegally against licensing terms. (People pawning off spare MSDN/Technet/Dreamspark keys, corporate techs writing down keys off machines' COAs, and many others sources) Sure they'll probably work, but there is no possible way you're obtaining an end-user license through legitimate channels at those prices.
el_seano's tip about Dreamspark is good if you happen to be a student or uni employee, but not entirely correct. Eligibility for Dreamspark and MSDN depends on your university, your specific school within the university, your status as a student/faculty, and so on. Having a ".edu" email address guarantees nothing.
Here's a solid Intel option for this budget— basic motherboard, excellent CPU for current-gen games. It will have trouble if you start stacking too many intensive Minecraft mods, but otherwise it'll tear through the games you're asking about. The next card up from the R7 260X that people like to suggest is the GTX 750 Ti. It won't show much benefit— you'd really have to go all the way to a GTX 660 before it makes sense.
jbe1114's Entry Build
| part | link | | price |
|:-|:-|:-|:-|
|cpu|Intel Core i3-4130 3.4 3 FCLGA 1150 Processor BX80646I34130|amazon|$123.41|
|video card|Gigabyte R7 260X GDDR5-1GB 2xDVI/HDMI/DP OC Graphics Card (GV-R726XOC-1GD)|amazon|$119.99|
|ram|G.SKILL NS Series 4GB 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10600) Desktop Memory Model F3-1333C9S-4GNS|newegg|$38.49|
|motherboard|MSI H81M-P33 LGA 1150 Intel H81 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard|newegg|$48.99|
|power supply|CORSAIR CX series CX430 430W ATX12V v2.3 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply|newegg|$44.99|
|case|GIGABYTE GZ-F5HEB Black SECC Steel / ABS ATX Mid Tower Computer Case|newegg|$29.99|
|hard drive|Western Digital WD10EZEX 1TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive, Blue - OEM|newegg|$59.99|
|disc drive|Lite-On Super AllWrite 24X SATA DVD+/-RW Dual Layer Drive - Bulk - IHAS124-04 (Black)|amazon|$20.60|
|operating system|Windows 8.1 System Builder OEM DVD 64-Bit|amazon|$99.28|
|||||
| |See current build price with shipping and tax| total | $585.73|
(Learn more and customize this build on KittenBoxes.com)
You can hop in there and play around with what some sensible upgrade/downgrade options are— I'd start with more RAM, which you could always do at any point down the line. Speaking of upgrades, this base can technically support upgrades all the way up to an i7 CPU and GTX 770 video card, though you'd be wise to upgrade the PSU as well at that point.
If you have any questions or feedback, I'll be around.
http://www.amazon.com/Windows-8-1-System-Builder-64-Bit/dp/B00F3ZN2W0/
Here's my build:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD FX-8320 3.5GHz 8-Core Processor | $151.98 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | Asus M5A78L-M LX PLUS Micro ATX AM3+ Motherboard | $46.18 @ Newegg
Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $67.50 @ Newegg
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $56.98 @ OutletPC
Video Card | MSI GeForce GTX 760 2GB TWIN FROZR Video Card | $239.99 @ Newegg
Case | BitFenix Comrade ATX Mid Tower Case | $49.00 @ Amazon
Power Supply | Corsair Builder 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | $29.99 @ Newegg
Wireless Network Adapter | Rosewill RNX-N150PCe 802.11b/g/n PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter | $10.98 @ Amazon
Operating System| Windows 7| $75.99
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available. | $686.60
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-04-29 21:37 EDT-0400 |
CPU: I chose AMD over Intel because, since the Potato 4 & XBONE have 8 cores, it's probable that future games will be optimized for more cores. Take Watch_Dogs for example.
Mobo: Standard, un-fancy mobo
Memory: Standard 8GB of Ram
Storage: 1TB of storage you can add more if you wish
GPU: A 760 should have no problem running things on High if not Ultra (depending on the game)
Case: Nice case to work with. Plenty of room and makes for better cable management.
PSU: Standard 500w PSU from Corsair
WIFI: I have no experience with these so you might want someone else's opinion on this
OS: Windows 7 (it's not listed on pcpartpicker so I had to link it to Amazon)
I also left headroom for M&KB since that's more of a personal choice IMO.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00H09BB16/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1395749393&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40
OP, do you realize you're instructing people to illegally download $99 + $119 worth of software without any forewarning that it's illegal? I don't mean to sound harsh but I can't help being anything but blunt when someone is so blatantly being irresponsible, intentionally or not. Don't take this the wrong way.
In case anyone else sees this, do not follow the instruction OP provides. Download VirtualBox for free and get a legal Windows virtual machine on Microsoft's website.
If you are installing it on 3 computers, I would recommend the Windows 7 family pack. Amazon sells it for $141
That includes three legit licenses to install on 3 pcs.
P.S. Ignore the "upgrade" it's easy to get around even on a new pc build.
For those wondering his budget in $ is about $7070
Info I dug up on the games
League of Legends recommended:
SMITE recommended:
Counter Strike Global Offensive recommended:
Valve says you could basically make do with a computer from 10 years ago but let's be honest you probably don't want everything on the lowest of settings.
----
I'm not too great at picking out parts but I'll see what I can do about other things that others aren't taking into consideration such as monitors.
So just as a heads up this is going to be tricky because you live in Italy and I have no idea what kind of price increase you can expect or who ships there or what.
Place I would look for buying bulk:
Have you also considered maybe asking companies to sponsor you? If you could get a few to send you keyboards, mouses, headsets, whatever it would really help lower your costs without having to resort to inferior products.
Companies I would try contacting:
You have I would say two choices when it comes to the OS, Windows 8.1 Full or Windows 8.1 OEM. OEM will save you about $13 a piece but it is a non transferable license and if say someone gets over excited and spills a big glass of soda all over the computer and just frys it you will have to rebuy Windows. Personally I think it is worth the extra $13 to know that you won't have to rebuy if worse comes to worse. Assuming you go with the Full version that's going to run you $1052
However you could probably get that in bulk as well from Microsoft http://www.microsoft.com/licensing/default.aspx
Monitors are another thing one can typically buy in bulk. Personally I would go with something like this Acer for $120, 21.5 inch, 60Hz, it does only have 5ms response time but unless you have very very high ranked players it shouldn't make a huge difference to most people and going to a lower response time is going to increase the price. Plus this is something you can always easily upgrade in the future and sell off the old ones. Buying refurbished monitors isn't a bad idea either.
Sites that sell bulk monitors in addition to the above:
Keyboards and mice. So you can definitely buy these in bulk but they will be the kind you would see in an office, probably not what you would want to game with. Personally I would contact companies like Logitec and Steel series and see if you could work out a deal and have them cut you a price cut for maybe putting up posters and advertising their product. But hey both Logitec and Amazon sell some really cheap wired keyboard mouse combos for $15.
Mousepads are all over the place and you can even make them yourself if you are feeling thrifty enough. $5 each seems reasonable to me for a decent mouse pad so $50 altogether.
Headset I would go with over the ear cheap so when they get nasty you can just toss them and not feel to bad. For $20 you can't do much better then these Sennheisers I feel.
For microphone I would maybe go with some clip ons like these or maybe a cheap desk stand one. You could go for an all in one headphone + mic but price to quality wise you are going to be spending more then you could if you got them separate I think.
So just as an estimate I would say without even building the PC's you are looking at probably somewhere in the area of $2,400 just for things like monitors and peripherals. Please tell me you already have table and chairs because that's going to kill your budget if you don't.
/u/s2xtreme4u - I sent you a PM and included my email address there, but I'll post the rest of what I said here so that it might be helpful to someone else, plus I'll add any additional information here minus my contact details.
=========
Technically the first thing you should do is power off your computer, and then take your computer to a professional. Because the longer your computer is on, the more files get encrypted. But professionals are pricey (and GeekSquad aren't professionals).
Let's assume all your files are encrypted... (which, by now is probably the case if the CryptoWall popup is appearing).
One thing you should be aware of is, if you run an antivirus now, you may run the risk of removing any decryption programs the CryptoWall virus ransom decrypter might make use of on your computer. However, you do want to run antivirus and anti-malware programs soon to remove any ADDITIONAL viruses installed on your system by the CryptoWall installer.
When it comes to recovering your files... there's a slim chance you can recover your files (if you don't have any backups anywhere). That slim chance comes in the form of
32 avenues: paying the ransom (if the files are worth more than the ransom amount),attempting decryption, or recovering your files from Backups, Web Storage, or your Windows Shadow Volume Copy.Recovering Files by Paying the Ransom
In order to access the ransom payment page, you need to download and install the Tor Browser. You do so at the Tor Project Page. You'll then be able to access the Ransom Payment Page. It is reported on other security blogs that you will be able to get a decryption key this way, to decrypt all your files. But you should not bet your life on it. Determine whether the chance at getting your files back is worth it versus using that money elsewhere.
Recovering Files by Decrypting through a 3rd Party
The service you would use to attempt decryption would be FireEye & Fox IT's DecryptCryptoLocker.com website. It was built for CryptoLocker, which you are not infected with, but there's a chance it might work for you. Your files are encrypted by a variant of CryptoLocker called CryptoWall.This service does not work with CryptoWall-encrypted files unfortunately.Recovering Files from the Shadow Volume
BleepingComputer has a good writeup on how to potentially recover your files from the Volume Shadow Service on their CryptoWall Ransomware Information page.
Bleeping Computer also provides a helpful tool called ListCWall that will create a list of all the files on your system encrypted by the CryptoWall virus.
Steps to Take After Recovering or Writing Off Your Files
Now... the next step IF you get your files decrypted OR once you decide the stuff on your computer isn't worth more than the ransom, you have 2 options: Attempt the usually risky cleansing of your computer, or just starting over.
My professional opinion for a consumer is the best and safest way to be rid of the virus is to wipe your drive clean, reinstall windows, and then acquire the appropriate security software and tools to prevent this from happening in the future.
If you find you need to buy a new OS disc, you can save money by getting a "System Builder" version. System Builder install discs are meant to be installed on only 1 computer and don't come with Microsoft Support, where "Full version" discs can be reinstalled on additional PCs and will receive Microsoft Support. That is why System Builder discs are cheaper - and you can can get them (on Amazon at least) for about 20-20% off.
Windows 8.1 Pro (64-bit):
System Builder ($130) vs Full Version ($175). If you have a MicroCenter near you, they will honor Amazon pricing. I'd probably go with the Full Version if I were you, but thought you should know the alternatives.
Cleaning your computer isn't going to be easy, and is generally not recommended for someone who doesn't work in IT, because it is very easy to overlook hidden and corrupted system files. No Antivirus program, or Antimalware program will find 100% of threats on your system. They get close to 100% sometimes (like Kaspersky) but none do. There are just too many new threats being released daily to keep up on it all. That's speaking a little more generally, but is a truth.
As for removing CryptoWall itself, you can follow the steps outlined at the PreciseSecurity website.
Recommended Software
*When it comes to Antivirus, you really do not want to go Free. Get a reputable antivirus program: It's a small price to pay to ensure you don't lose out in the future. Not all antivirus solutions are the same either. For several years running, Kaspersky Antivirus consistently tests top of the class in independent testing. Please refer to the AV-Comparatives Independent Tests of Antivirus Software website to view recent tests and awards.
Steps to Take on a Fresh, Virus-free Computer
On the other side of this mess, you do want to change behaviors and software used to access the internet and your computer:
I can go on for another 9,000 characters I'm sure, but this will get you started.
It won't be possible to transfer the windows install from the laptop to the new computer if you bought the laptop with windows preinstalled. I would just buy an oem license from Newegg or Amazon. The cheapest of the two is here: http://www.amazon.com/Windows-8-1-System-Builder-64-Bit/dp/B00F3ZN2W0
Also, there are of course other, more shady, methods.
Where are you getting 200$ from? For a full, non-upgrade version, it is 94.57$
http://www.amazon.com/Windows-8-1-System-Builder-64-Bit/dp/B00F3ZN2W0/
Here is one i put together last week - $840. If you want, you could spend an extra $110-$180 for a SSD ($180 SAMSUNG 850 Pro 256gb SSD, $130 SAMSUNG 850 EVO 250gb, $110 Crucial MX100 256gb).
EDIT: Adjusted Mobo and upped PSU to a modular one.
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $189.99 @ Newegg
Motherboard | GIGABYTE GA-H97M-D3H Motherboard | $89.00 @ Newegg
Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $77.98 @ Newegg
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $54.99 @ Newegg
Video Card | HIS Radeon R9 270X 2GB IceQ X² Video Card | $162.98 @ Newegg
Case | Cooler Master HAF 912 ATX Mid Tower Case | $57.98 @ Newegg
Power Supply | SeaSonic SSR-650RM 650W Power Supply | $94.99 @ Newegg
Optical Drive | Lite-On iHAS124-14 DVD/CD Writer | $19.99 @ Newegg
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 8.1 System Builder OEM DVD | $92.00 @ Amazon
Could wait until the nvidia 960 comes out and see how that benchmarks against 270x and its price (rumor is it'll be around $200), and what the new amx 3xx series might be. Should be releasing this before the spring.
Also for a case - you can go for whatever meets your fancy that keeps in your price range. No need to stay with what i chose (just threw in something <$80 for your budget). You can't go wrong with something from either Cooler Master, Corsair, NZXT, Antec, Fractal Design, Bit Fenix, Silverstone, In Win, or AZZA. Make sure you've got mounts for 2.5" drives, and some front USB 3.0 connections. Just look around and find something that catches your eye.
Are only OEM versions available?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GOUBT6E/ref=s9_al_bw_g65_i2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_s=center-3&amp;pf_rd_r=0JG7XRTPE7F7X12FZQ3A&amp;pf_rd_t=101&amp;pf_rd_p=1752383762&amp;pf_rd_i=1286119011
Any catches?
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-6700 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor | $389.98 @ DirectCanada
Motherboard | ASRock H170A-X1/3.1 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $74.98 @ NCIX
Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory | $79.99 @ DirectCanada
Storage | Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $109.98 @ DirectCanada
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $59.93 @ Vuugo
Video Card | MSI Radeon RX 480 8GB Video Card | $329.99 @ NCIX
Case | Corsair SPEC-01 RED ATX Mid Tower Case | $59.99 @ NCIX
Power Supply | Corsair CXM 550W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $58.98 @ NCIX
Optical Drive | Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer | $24.55 @ Vuugo
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 OEM 64-bit | $119.99
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1318.36
| Mail-in rebates | -$10.00
| Total | $1308.36
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-13 01:14 EDT-0400 |
Build Link: http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/j7LbXH
GPU: I put an RX 480 in the build. It performs close to GTX 980. If you can wait, GTX 1060 will launch next week (July 19) for 250 USD (327 CAD). It will outperform GTX 980.
OS: You'll have to buy Windows 7 from Amazon. Although, check other online stores too if they have Windows 7.
If somehow you decide to get Windows 10 instead, you could get it here. It's at about the same price as Windows 7. Although, you can upgrade to Windows 10 from Windows 7 if you do it before July 29.
Optical Drive: Included one in the build so you can install Windows 7. However, you can drop it from the build if you get Windows 10 since it will come in a USB drive instead of a disc.
Here's what I came up with! Comes with Windows 7, a Haswell Pentium (solid!), 4 GB of RAM, a 250 GB hard drive, and a nice case with a power supply. This should do everything you need for less than $400, and it is all from Amazon with prime shipping :)
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Pentium G3220 3.0GHz Dual-Core Processor | $67.63 @ Amazon
Motherboard | MSI H81M-E33 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $49.99 @ Amazon
Memory | Crucial Ballistix Sport 4GB (1 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $39.30 @ Amazon
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 250GB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $48.19 @ Amazon
Case | Apex PC-375 ATX Mid Tower Case w/300W Power Supply | $39.99 @ Amazon
Optical Drive | Samsung SH-224DB/BEBE DVD/CD Writer | $20.99 @ Amazon
Other| Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 64-bit| $94.96
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available. | $361.05
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-03-09 16:38 EDT-0400 |
Here's the link for the Windows 7 since it didn't show up properly above.
Here let me price the 64 bit and 32 bit Windows 7 for you.
32 Bit $94.89 on Amazon
64 Bit $94.89 on Amazon
I've been using a 64 Bit OS for almost 4 years now, most developers have them. It is a trend for the future that has been going on for years and has been publicly available and affordable for 9 years. I'm sorry you feel cheated but maybe this is a sign that its time to upgrade, more and more games will start going 64 bit only in the future because of the memory it offers.
Hey there! PC making is something I enjoy doing mainly as I know what's going into a build then so if it fucks up it's all on me too :P
The one thing I'm a big advocate of when it comes to builds is balance. Some of the things you have are nice in the list but some parts you're paying more for when you won't get a noticeable kickback on them with the other parts.
If the $1000 is just for the rig itself (not monitors, keyboard, mouse etc) I'd personally go for something like this:
TOTAL PRICE: $1072.25
The only change I'd make to this is the PSU if you're comfortable with cable management, as then I'd go for the SeaSonic S12II 620 instead (basically the same unit but not modular) for $65. Would bring total down to $1047.25
THIS is a really awesome physical download site. It doesn't even matter what your bandwidth is; it only takes 2 days to download right to your doorstep!
You can snag a copy of Win 7 Home Premium on Amazon or for a few $$ more you can get Win 7 Pro at Microcenter....both versions will include WMC.
For less messy amazon links you can extract the part after "/dp/" in
https://www.amazon.com/Windows-Professional-System-Builder-Packaging/dp/B00H09BOXQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=software&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484209596&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=windows+7+pro
and make it:
https://amzn.com/B00H09BOXQ
BEEP BOP
Plz send any recommendations via PM
You can still buy legit copies on Amazon, NewEgg or probably from brick-and-mortar stores if there is anything near you.
Found a link to a small mom and pop shop that sells them.
Good luck.
Windows 7 Professional SP1 64bit (OEM) System Builder DVD 1 Pack (New Packaging)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H09BOXQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7QGSybZVG0YX0
Yes and no. You can't go from home to pro, but you can go from 32 to 64 (at least for windows 10). The only thing is you have to do a clean install.
Also, my bad. The $40 32bit windows 7 is the pro version, not home, and I never metioned that in my previous comment.
when i built my first pc this past september, i just bought a windows key that comes as a flash drive.
i probably wasted money, but here it is if interested, worked easy;
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01019T6O0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
For a first build, not bad. However, there are still changes to be made.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor | $197.43 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | MSI - B350 PC MATE ATX AM4 Motherboard | $86.98 @ Newegg
Memory | G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $152.99 @ Newegg
Storage | SanDisk - Ultra II 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $84.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Seagate - Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $66.89 @ OutletPC
Video Card | MSI - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB GT OCV1 Video Card | $264.98 @ Newegg
Case | Phanteks - ECLIPSE P400 TEMPERED GLASS ATX Mid Tower Case | $69.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Corsair - CXM 550W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $59.99 @ Amazon
Case Fan | be quiet! - SilentWings 3 PWM 50.5 CFM 120mm Fan | $19.89 @ SuperBiiz
Case Fan | be quiet! - SilentWings 3 PWM 50.5 CFM 120mm Fan | $19.89 @ SuperBiiz
Monitor | Acer - H236HLbid 23.0" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor | $109.99 @ Newegg
Keyboard | Hcman - Hcman H01 Wired Gaming Keyboard | $49.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $1184.00
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-08-24 01:30 EDT-0400 |
Changes
Microsoft literally sells them through amazon.
Legally, you aren't supposed to use it for personal use, only as a system builder that is loading the software and selling machines, but nobody is checking on that and it doesn't matter.
The only issue you will find is that the license is non-transferrable and you won't be able to get MS support on it. Otherwise you are gold.
For 13? Hell no. Stay away from that.
If you want Amazon, get the real thing.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZSHDJ4O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.OrJzbNW9NZHP
When you see Windows/license keys for dirt cheap, they're almost always guaranteed to be counterfeit.
Cooler: get it. It's more important than an extra case fan (also important but all cases come with more than 1 fan)
Thermal compound: your compound's fine, this isn't a note but I noticed it came with a spreader. Do people still use those?
Graphics card: Ti all the way.
PSU: Why you spending so much on your PSU? Bronze is all you need, baby! Here's a for instance. but get what you want.
Win 10 Pro OEM
Win 10 Pro multi-system
Yours is between those 2 in price but is only OEM. Shop around a bit.
Storage: 2 things. 1: get a 500GB SSD if you can. 2: get an HDD. You're gonna need it. Just whatever's cheap and 500-1,000GB.
Case: yours is good. I like: Rosewill Case
Reason: First off, before you can even use your case, you have to buy 2 new fans out of the box, replace the front ones so you can use the front ones in this special adapter. Seriously, if you don't use the special adapter, they're LOUD AS FUCK for what they are. Now, Rosewills aren't quiet by any standard. Shit, they have a reputation as being the dirtiest, cheapest fans on the market, but they ABSOLUTELY work and you don't want to tear your eyes out. Second, yours can hodl 3 fans. The one I linked can hold 8 not counting PSU of course. Now, I wouldn't use the foremost fan on the top and maybe not even the top side panel but you set the bottom side panel and floor to blow in, the roof to exhaust and front/back in standard config and you're running a beastly system on cheap-ass fans for some reason.
Cons: it looks ugly af.
The crazy thing is that the listing is still there despite all the complaints of pirated, bad media, incorrect license keys, etc. What does it take for Amazon to see the problem here?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZSHDJ4O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Microsoft Windows 10 Pro - $75. Any reason not to trust this?
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/offer-listing/B00ZSHDJ4O/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&amp;condition=new
On sale on amazon for $80 right now
Just bite the $110 bullet.
Although, for an HTPC I'd ask if you really need Windows. What are you thinking, Boxee/KODI for the frontend, maybe Steam Big Picture for in-home streaming?
Try Ubuntu the first time around. All you have to lose is time.
Amazon and Newegg seems to think otherwise.
http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Home-Flash-Drive/dp/B01019T6O0
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832588528&amp;cm_re=windows_10-_-32-588-528-_-Product
I case you missed the memo, windows is a paid software, google services are free which means they can pretty much whatever the hell they want with it, if you don't like it then you can just use bing or duck duck go, that's the difference here, ads on a PAID os (and before you said anything, the windows license price is already included in the machine's price, that's why laptops came with serial stickers before and auto activate now) are unacceptable, pure and simple, in my particular i had to pay the full price of a windows 10 x64 pro license, Which is right now a 100+ dollars in amazon and 200$ in microsoft store to have microsoft pulling this shit off.
Windows 10 is very much not free, it was only a free upgrade (if you had a valid license) from 7 for a while.
https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Pro-64-bit-OEM/dp/B00ZSHDJ4O/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1502705606&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=windows+10
Imposible to get an i5, OS, keyboard, and monitor, for less than $600, but I can do this for $600;
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/dNjBQ7, and this, and this, and this.
You can buy it. I'm pretty sure it's cheaper elsewhere.
pretty solid first build imo, I'm not super familiar with the new Ryzen chips, being an intel guy in general. An extra $22 would get you a m.2 SSD, which is worth considering. Do you need windows 10, I don't see an OEM License in there, don't forget the extra cost.
You could bring your RAM speed down to 2400 and cut out the LEDs, this would save you $40. You will not notice any speed difference at all unless MAYBE if you overclock your ram.
Just a few thoughts, it seems like a well thought out build.
Motherboards don't store data, Hard Drives do that. And no, hard drives don't come with Windows either, you'll have to buy your own copy of windows. You'll need to buy something like this
It used to be $120 for the Home edition, but they increased the price this year.
You can buy a single-use OEM license + DVD (not necessary, but it comes with it.) from Amazon, but changing hardware like the Motherboard in the future might cause it to deactivate. It's not as likely anymore, but there's still a risk.
Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/OEM-Windows-Home-64-Bit-1-Pack/dp/B00ZSI7Y3U
I recommend getting a "retail" version of win10 (costs $120 on Amazon) and not an "OEM" version (costs $100 on Amazon).
The OEM key can only be used on the first activated computer. If you plan on doing a new build or need to replace the MOBO you need to buy a brand new product key.
With the retail version if you want to upgrade or need to replace the MOBO you can deactivate the key on your current system and then transfer the key to the latest and greatest (you cannot have the same key active on multiple devices though).
I believe Microsoft's website only sells retail versions (and does not sell OEM) but if looking elsewhere (like Amazon or Newegg) the retail version is normally ~$20 USD more expensive than OEM but well worth it if you are considering upgrading in the future^1.
^1 Windows 10 is the last "planned" version of the Windows OS, so getting the retail version means you have one key that "should" last for the rest of your life.
Edit: Added links for reference and added some clarity.
You're good, here's one from Amazon
Sorry, but another question. I'm planning on buying from amazon and there's reviews where they got an invalid key. I'm buying straight from Microsoft, should I still worry about this?
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(Sorry, I'm a dick)
Amazon USB or Amazon CD, both of which come with product codes. Or you can just buy it off of the official Windows 10 store. Go to Activation in the settings
Showing up as $90.72 from Amazon for me.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-4460 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $182.95 @ Amazon
Motherboard | Asus H97I-PLUS Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard | $99.00 @ Amazon
Memory | Kingston HyperX Fury Black 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory | $38.50 @ Amazon
Storage | Kingston SSDNow V300 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $42.66 @ Amazon
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $49.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | Gigabyte Radeon R9 380 4GB SOC Video Card | $229.99 @ Amazon
Case | Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV ITX Mini ITX Tower Case | $69.99 @ Amazon
Power Supply | Corsair CXM 450W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $49.99 @ Amazon
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $85.95 @ Amazon
Monitor | Acer S220HQLAbd 21.5" 60Hz Monitor | $89.99 @ Amazon
Keyboard | Logitech K120 Wired Standard Keyboard | $9.99 @ Amazon
Mouse | Logitech G402 Wired Optical Mouse | $43.00 @ Amazon
Speakers | Logitech S120 2.3W 2ch Speakers | $15.00 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | ~$1006.50
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-13 16:43 EDT-0400 |
Comes in a little over 1k, but I included keyboard, mouse, monitor, speakers, etc. Things you may already have, or have extras of. Mini-ITX check, SSD, check, Windows 10, check (they come in USBs now so no need optical drive). Modular PSU so you can actually fit all your parts in easily. GPU should be able to handle most games satisfactorily. CPU should handle most tasks well. GLHF
Hi there, I'm planning on buying windows from amazon and it comes in a disc form. I'm not getting an optical disc drive for my build, so how would I download the OS onto the computer? I have a laptop to use on the side.
I didn't mean to imply that OEM is fake or not legitimate, that's not true.
You want Retail Windows, which is what you'll find on the Microsoft Store and some third-party retailers (marked as retail Windows). You can re-use the key as many times as you need on one PC at a time.
OEM was originally designed for PC manufacturers (like Dell, Alienware, etc) to be put on a laptop or desktop that you would buy pre-built from a big box chain (like Walmart or Best Buy). It is locked to that one PC (it ties itself to the motherboard) so they don't put the same key on a bunch of PCs. Nowadays it is sold by third-party retailers directly to consumers as a "cheap" alternative, but you have to buy a new key every time you make a change to the motherboard, so it isn't actually cheaper.
Grey market keys are super cheap, but cannot be linked here as they are not reliable solution (even implying these are a solution is against the rules on this sub). These are no better than pirated codes in terms of reliability.
What you picked is a great build, and you should be good to start tracking down local prices.
Go to Amazon, and buy it and the product key will be available when you download it.
https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-10-Pro-Download/dp/B01019BOEA
I'm pretty sure you could buy one from Amazon, but the upgrade would normally be $99 rather than $199. Otherwise, it's time to talk to a VAR.
Nope! USB is the preferred way to go these days for most people. I believe the minimum is 4GB, but just be warned it will format whatever drive you use so make sure you back your files up.
https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10/
You could alternatively just buy a USB with it already loaded like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Home-Flash-Drive/dp/B01019T6O0
No problem. Quick reminder that the Windows 10 license you're ordering is on a DVD but you don't have an optical drive. You can order a Windows 10 license pre-installed on a USB here.
If you have another PC that you can use to make your own USB you can purchase a downloadable version here. There are several free tools you can use to do it this way & it's cheaper but it's up to you. Either way you won't run into any issues running the OS once everything is built.
Good luck with the build man, hope all goes well :)
You can buy the OS on a USB stick, or make your own bootable USB Windows installer with an empty >4GB USB stick.
Yep, this is what I bought and just had to plug it in and select either my ssd or hdd and enter the key that came with it. Like 5 minutes later i was at my desktop.
Yes.
https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Home-Flash-Drive/dp/B01019T6O0
Micro
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $197.99 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-B150M-D3H-GSM Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $64.99 @ Amazon
Memory | PNY Anarchy 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $27.99 @ Amazon
Storage | OCZ TRION 150 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $49.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $47.49 @ OutletPC
Case | Antec P50 MicroATX Mini Tower Case | $29.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | $39.98 @ Newegg
Other| AMD R9 480| $200.00
Other| Windows 10 Home USB| $119.00
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $817.42
| Mail-in rebates | -$40.00
| Total | $777.42
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-06-24 20:58 EDT-0400 |
Mini
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $197.99 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | ASRock H110M-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard | $67.99 @ SuperBiiz
Memory | PNY Anarchy 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $27.99 @ Amazon
Storage | OCZ TRION 150 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $49.99 @ Newegg
Case | Fractal Design Node 304 Mini ITX Tower Case | $84.99 @ Directron
Power Supply | EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | $39.98 @ Newegg
Other| AMD R9 480| $200.00
Other| Windows 10 Home USB| $119.00
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $807.93
| Mail-in rebates | -$20.00
| Total | $787.93
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-06-24 21:01 EDT-0400 |
Amazon Windows 10 USB: https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Home-Flash-Drive/dp/B01019T6O0/
Oh yeah, USB! and it's faster too. You can purchase Windows 10 on a USB drive instead of traditional media or you can download the installer and put it on a USB stick you already own for free! In the latter, you'll still want to purchase a license, either just the key or the CD you already have in your list.
https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Home-Flash-Drive/dp/B01019T6O0/ref=sr_1_3?s=software&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498163117&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=windows+10
Sold by Microsoft on Amazon, you can get it cheaply or legitimately and due to the rules of the subreddit I can only recommend getting it legitimately
Microsoft Windows 10 Home USB Flash Drive https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01019T6O0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2sLlzb7G5YZQ8 np billy
I probably would've just gotten an R5 1600 and not gotten an aftermarket CPU cooler. Also you can order a flash drive that already has Windows 10 on it. Other than that, doesn't look too bad.
You said:
"I see Windows 7 Ultimate as the standard Windows 7 version, and if you want to save some money, you can actually remove some features to lower the price to one of two lower tiers. If you think about it this way, Apple essentially forces you to buy the most expensive version of their OS: their "ultimate" version, if you will."
How can this be true when Apple's OS is $35 (with a $30 upgrade to Lion in a few weeks), And Windows 7 Ultimate is between $250 and $300?
It seems to me that the Mac OS X experience is a far greater value in terms of OS pricing. This has to count for something in terms of overall cost.
http://www.amazon.com/Mac-version-10-6-3-Snow-Leopard/dp/B001AMHWP8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1310393781&amp;sr=8-1
http://www.amazon.com/NEW-Windows-Ultimate-Full-Software/dp/B004UCV2PQ/ref=sr_1_6?s=software&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1310393939&amp;sr=1-6
I know an iOS developer who develops entirely on a hackintosh PC. It is very much possible. All you need is a $30 Snow Leopard disc and you could be rocking Mac OS on your current PC. Instructions. (Try here if you have a GTX 400/500 series card.)
It's gonna take a lot more effort than just using a regular mac, but it's fun to learn it and doesn't incur the cost of a pricey new machine. I would recommend installing it on its own drive though, partitioning can get kind of janky when you are learning.
Things to upgrade:
edit: changed the RAM from DDR3 to DDR2 and added like to Snow Leopard disk.
You can by Mac OS X here. It's 10.6, not 10.9. Does that invalidate anything? Since this is the first time you've ever brought up a specific version in your argument, I would say no.
But he's not talking about stealing anything. He's telling you he made an omelet. He used a pan that the egg seller doesn't support, who cares? If the omelet came out well, it came out well, and you can expect he knows how to make omelets.
Lo!
Also, I really really really want Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium as it is part of the process getting my computer back up and running. However I realistically do not expect that :-P
In real life I could use a tactical pen I have to do therapy and home evaluations in pretty shady neighborhoods and it would be cool to have a pen and semi self defense tool just in case.
Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium should be just fine for you. Operating systems are always expensive, but you can always find discounted ones. http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-7-Home-Premium/dp/B002DHGMK0 Search around before you finally purchase. Happy gaming!
I think you can use system builder with a Mac to avoid the upgrade issue: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00F3ZN0CC?pc_redir=1398754837&amp;amp;robot_redir=1
Yep. Out of curiosity though, what do you like about 8.1 and not like about 10? Most people who don't want 10 are diehards for 7.
Cheaper than 130$
That's pretty distasteful (the death threats, not your question), hell I've been building PCs for 16 years and I'm not positive you can't build a laptop. Certainly not in the traditional sense of buying individual components, but I bet you could piece together some sort of frankenlaptop from existing parts. Or build a PC into a briefcase emulate a laptops portability. Which I know works cause I know someone who did it back in the 90s.
I get that you don't want to go back to /r/buildapc but you really don't need to spend $2400.
16GB of RAM isn't strictly needed for games, very few will take advantage of that much. I can think of 1, Planetary Annihilation.
Anyway this is off the top of my head w/ out any research into cutting costs whatsoever. Spending some time on google you could prob shave off a few hundred.
4690K - $233
16GB RAM - $147
GTX 970 - $350
SSD - $127
PSU - $60
Motherboard - $140
HDD - $78
KB+M - $15
Windows - $92
Unless you are buying a $1200 dollar computer case, there's your good PC at half your expected cost.
I didn't include a monitor cause I'm going to assume that since your presently gaming on your 360 you have a TV and you can just plug your PC into that w/ a HDMI cable. Hell you can use same one you were using on your xbox after you throw it out since this PC will crush it. :-P
I feel like I'm missing something here...
Here's a link to Windows 7: http://amzn.com/B00H09BB16
Here's a link to Windows 8: http://amzn.com/B00F3ZN2W0
Here's a link to OpenOffice (which is free): https://www.openoffice.org/
And here's a link to Microsoft Office 2013: http://amzn.com/B00B1TGUMG
...is that what you were looking for? I mean, you may be able to find lower prices by using something like Google.
https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Premium-System-Builder/dp/B00H09BB16
sounds like it's 64 bit, then
amazon is your best bet. if you don't want to use them, try newegg
http://www.amazon.com/Windows-Premium-System-Builder-Packaging/dp/B00H09BB16
Double check and make sure it is shipped and sold by Amazon to avoid getting burned by third party vendors.
It's from Amazon. If it's fulfilled by Amazon and it's an OEM disk or code you'll be fine. Amazon hasn't gotten where it is by scamming people.
Here
http://amzn.com/B00H09BB16
Also as a side note: You can order just the (license) key and you would make your own USB Thumb drive using the Microsoft Create Windows 10 installation media:
https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10
Or you can order Windows 10 that comes on a USB Thumb drive already (where as they use to come on DVD)
like here https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01019T6O0
but that USB will have whatever build was out at the time.. To me it is better to just make your own current Windows 10 version with the MediaCreationTool1803.exe from the Microsoft website..
https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Home-Flash-Drive/dp/B01019T6O0
Hope that's not for my region, but they should be easy to spot if you search them
You can also just buy Window 10 on a USB stick.
Windows 10 USB on Amazon
Retail License does not come with a machine. That's OEM. This is a disc / USB you buy at a store, like this:
&#x200B;
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01019TDJ8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01019T6O0/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467015598&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=windows+10&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=410meTV0GPL&amp;ref=plSrch
Windows is generally pretty expensive.
https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-English-Flash-Drive/dp/B075RM5BHV/ref=sr_1_4?s=software&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1540163178
There are other sites you can buy a key from that may charge less, but these are generally of dubious legality and against the rules to post here. You could maybe find something on ebay.
https://www.amazon.ca/Microsoft-Windows-Pro-Flash-Drive/dp/B01019TDJ8/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?adgrpid=66799573171&amp;gclid=EAIaIQobChMIwO2qtN3H5AIVg4nICh2gTA21EAAYASAAEgJuRfD_BwE&amp;hvadid=310004499243&amp;hvdev=m&amp;hvlocphy=9001097&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvpos=1t1&amp;hvqmt=b&amp;hvrand=1725321786912321331&amp;hvtargid=kwd-300277188212&amp;hydadcr=2222_10330164&amp;keywords=windows+10+professional+oem+key&amp;qid=1568169190&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-2
If you don’t think you’re able to download it anywhere or don’t have a store near you. You can pay a little extra and have a flash drive shipped to you
Microsoft Windows 10 Home English USB Flash Drive https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075RM5BHV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3k1.Bb47NA23H
The power supply should come with all the all the cables you need.
Amazon sells windows that is pre installed on a USB
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01019T6O0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-nmvyb7B4WKAH
What country are you in? I'm not sure about other regions, but the Windows 10 Pro USB goes on sale every now and then for about $120 on Amazon Canada (it's normally $250, currently $146). That's less than the price of the standard edition. Just make sure it's either sold or fulfilled by Amazon
If you've got a PC of some sort right now, and a USB drive that's minimum of 8GB, you can make your own bootable USB and use any Windows key, no matter if it comes with a disk or a USB drive.
Also https://www.amazon.ca/Microsoft-Windows-Pro-Flash-Drive/dp/B01019TDJ8
So from what I am reading you have a 32 bit version of windows 10/8 so if you want to play the game you may need to get a 64 bit version of windows 10/8 https://www.amazon.ca/Microsoft-Windows-Pro-Flash-Drive/dp/B01019TDJ8/ref=sr_1_3?crid=90K1XV4DHM8&amp;keywords=windows+10&amp;qid=1549716793&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=Windows%2Caps%2C178&amp;sr=8-3 windows 10 pro is on sale right know for cheaper than the standard edition of windows also you may want to check the minimum specs list on steam and make sure you are above those I’ll give you a link here https://store.steampowered.com/app/264710/Subnautica/
( https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Pro-Flash-Drive/dp/B01019TDJ8 ) Is this the Windows 10 Pro Edition Retail license or OEM? I'm looking for the retail license.
So what do you think of this deal? https://www.amazon.ca/Microsoft-Windows-Pro-Flash-Drive/dp/B01019TDJ8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511499653&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=windows+usb
This one looks like sold by 3rd party which seems risky
I just found this on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.ca/Microsoft-Windows-Pro-Flash-Drive/dp/B01019TDJ8/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=windows+10+pro&qid=1565891545&s=gateway&sr=8-3
This must be legit, right?
I guess that's the one thing I forgot to update on the parts list above, I ended up getting this one instead. I don't see OEM anywhere. Am I good?
If you need to purchase a new Windows licence, the easiest thing to do would be to just buy a Windows 10 USB drive. These are sold by Microsoft.
Barring that, you could simply download the Windows USB/DVD download tool and follow the prompts.
So this should work? https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-English-Flash-Drive/dp/B075RM5BHV/ref=sr_1_5?s=software&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1536162038&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=windows+10
This is the list from the post. He bought the suggested parts.
Published on Jul 5, 2019
Gaming Benchmarks & Prices for this PC: https://youtu.be/L8hmFm_Z2NM Here is my step by step tutorial on how to build my $600 Spark V2 gaming PC! Links to parts, tools, and resources are below. How to install drivers on this PC: https://youtu.be/uDHeIx9CNxA How to install windows on this PC: https://youtu.be/AfC5ViBiRQM Social Media: INSTAGRAM: https://www.instagram.com/scattervolt DISCORD: https://scattervolt.com/discord TWITTER: https://twitter.com/MarcAranibar ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- Parts List: Buy the CPU here: US: https://amzn.to/2RLpfGS UK: https://amzn.to/2IZGktR CA: https://amzn.to/2Xe48mu EU: https://amzn.to/2FINgcH Buy the CPU Cooler here: (optional) US: https://amzn.to/2NmbjVh UK: https://amzn.to/2YpAib8 CA: https://amzn.to/2LuP2BR EU: N/A Buy the MOTHERBOARD here: US: https://amzn.to/2Xa6VZb UK: https://amzn.to/2FJUYU1 CA: https://amzn.to/2NxkQJk (ATX version, cheaper) EU: https://amzn.to/2xjq00m Buy the RAM here: (different brand, same specs) US: https://amzn.to/2LzikiK UK: https://amzn.to/2IXjWkW CA: https://amzn.to/2JjrtJN (single stick, still 8GB) EU: https://amzn.to/2YjTgA8 (2800mhz, still fast though) Buy the GPU here: US: https://amzn.to/2ZXbCal (different model, cheaper) UK: https://amzn.to/2xmm3Z2 CA: https://amzn.to/2RLlVLI EU: https://amzn.to/2JgfXyG (different model, cheaper) Buy the SSD here: US: https://amzn.to/2Ls5ClV UK: https://amzn.to/2XftxY6 CA: https://amzn.to/2RQ59ve EU: https://amzn.to/2xlJstn Buy the PSU here: US: https://amzn.to/2XEqgWp UK: https://amzn.to/2xrGu6x CA: https://amzn.to/2XJW9gi EU: https://amzn.to/2XeVHlW Buy the CASE here: US: https://amzn.to/2XEwuWm UK: https://amzn.to/2xvOTpX CA: https://amzn.to/2NpVKMe EU: https://amzn.to/2IYym44 (Optional) RGB case fans: US: https://amzn.to/2XhH7z4 UK: https://amzn.to/2LsQmW9 CA: https://amzn.to/2XgfNMX EU: https://amzn.to/2J2T82u ---------------------------------------------------------------- PC Upgrades: If you have $25 More to Spend: (SSD Upgrade) US: https://amzn.to/2Nxsvaa UK: https://amzn.to/2Lzj8Ei CA: https://amzn.to/2RONZy6 EU: https://amzn.to/2LptJlc If you have $75 More to Spend: (CPU Upgrade) US: https://amzn.to/2XhOou4 UK: https://amzn.to/2FCNzpB CA: https://amzn.to/2XBPkxr EU: https://amzn.to/2XimLWs -------------------------------------------------------------------- PC Accessories/Building Tools: Handy Magnetic Screw Driver Kit: US: http://amzn.to/2Fdh03o UK: http://amzn.to/2FWsndf CA: http://amzn.to/2FROG3u DE: N/A Bios Speaker (for troubleshooting): US: http://amzn.to/2FokCi6 UK: http://amzn.to/2FokKOC CA: http://amzn.to/2oK2DsU DE: http://amzn.to/2FTLSmv USB Wifi Adapter: (For a wireless connection) US: https://amzn.to/2WsrqE3 UK: https://amzn.to/2JNrNDp CA: https://amzn.to/2M8FXk9 EU: https://amzn.to/2VVLEl8 PCI Card Wifi Adapter: (For a faster wireless connection) US: https://amzn.to/2XCtslr UK: https://amzn.to/2IYnnrw CA: https://amzn.to/2ZXccVz EU: https://amzn.to/2FHN65u Cat7 Ethernet Cable: (For a wired connection, fastest, plug into router) US: https://amzn.to/2W9dShq UK: https://amzn.to/2MfphaM CA: https://amzn.to/2W4XNt0 EU: https://amzn.to/2JK1DkP Windows 10 Home: US: https://amzn.to/2EByu7c UK: https://amzn.to/2HEIIWj CA: https://amzn.to/2YRlbqJ EU: https://amzn.to/2YRIxgc *Here's how to install Windows 10 for free on your own USB drive: https://youtu.be/AfC5ViBiRQM
So you have two options: you can run Windows unactivated or buy a license. If you run Windows unactivated you'll see a watermark on the bottom right and can't change the desktop background, that's all, not much other restrictions (if any others). If you want to buy a license they run around $130.
Wouldn't Amazon's win10 USB be acceptable too? about $20 cheaper than buying straight from Microsoft:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075RM5BHV
The SSDs are brand new out of the box. The USB is actually from Microsoft and I bought it off amazon.
If I'm building a new PC and need to purchase Windows 10 Home, should I just order the USB from Amazon and have it shipped with the rest of my components and skip the creation tool all-together? Or will it be better to go through these steps and activate online? I've read different comments that say it'll can be more expensive to buy an activation key directly.
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-English-Flash-Drive/dp/B075RM5BHV/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=windows+10+home+usb&qid=1558059762&s=software&sr=1-3
CD
USB
I grabbed windows 10 pro USB yesterday on amazon.ca for $124. Primed it. Now it's $125 from a different seller, but thought someone might like a heads up. Didn't want to make a separate post because it's not "hardware". Better than that vuugo DVD of windows 10 home with their shipping prices.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B01019TDJ8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493669356&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=windows+10+pro&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41uifD-hTmL&amp;ref=plSrch
The exact above. You'll need to download Windows 10 from another PC and install the setup files onto a USB drive. After, plug it into the PC you've bought. Then at startup at the BIOS screen (motherboard manufacturer screen), press the appropriate boot menu button (e.g. F12), and select the USB drive. Then, install Windows onto the PC.
If you don't have another PC to download the setup files from, then you'll probably need to buy a Windows USB stick (along with a license) for about $100: https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Home-Flash-Drive/dp/B075RM5BHV/
Um, the USB I am using is a Windows product, that I ordered right from amazon it is this one below
https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Home-Flash-Drive/dp/B075RM5BHV/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
So I will be receiving all the parts for my build by the end of today, EXCEPT for my Windows 10, which will arrive on the weekend. Is there a way for me to start installing and updating Windows before it gets here?
The Win 10 I bought is this one:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01019TDJ8/
My new OS will be installed on a new Samsung 950 Pro M.2 SSD drive and neither of the two drives I want to move from my old PC to the new one have my old OS on them. My old OS is on an SSD in the old computer and the two I want to move are both HDDs.
Here is the Windows 10 I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01019TDJ8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I honestly don't remember if my Windows 7 was or not. I bought it at a Microcenter when building my first PC about 4 years ago. I just remember it was the Pro version as well.
I hate to say it, but there's a lot that could be better about your current build. The 6700 is in a bit of a strange place as a CPU. It has a bunch of cores, but it can't reach very high clock speeds and it can't overclock, which means you aren't utilizing the full potential of your Z170 motherboard. I'd change it to an i5 6600k. There are less cores, but that won't make a difference unless you're editing videos. It can be overclocked, too. It's just a better option for you.
The Hyper 212 is a great cooler, but it's loud and other options have recently come to the table that are more quiet and of higher quality. Among them is the Cryorig H7, which I think is the best in it's class of budget coolers.
There's nothing wrong with the motherboard you chose, but the Gigabyte Gaming 5 has more USB ports. Plus, Gigabyte's customer service is a lot better than Asus in my experience.
The RAM is fine. You could find an equal product for like $10 less, but it's not a huge difference. It a good product and there's no harm in keeping it.
Life without an SSD is just unbearable. There's no reason not to get an SSD these days when the prices are so much lower than they were before. Keep your 2 TB drive for storage, but I'd add a 256-512 GB SSD for your operating system, apps, and favorite games. Trust me when I say it's worth it. Would you rather boot your computer in a minute or 10 seconds?
For your purposes, the GTX 1070 will be a much better place to start. The 1070 will be able to run games on max settings at 1080p 144 FPS at least 1.5-2 years down the line. You'll be much happier with that than you would with the 1060.
The 500R retails for $99, so I don't know how you found that. There are a number of great cases that you could get around that price point. Find a mid tower ATX case that you think looks nice and go for it. I'd recommend the Fractal Design R5. It's easy to build in and looks simple and clean.
The NEX line is generally considered to be unreliable. The G2 line is of a much higher quality for only a little more money. I'd recommend going for that. If not EVGA, then look at Corsair and Seasonic PSUs. They make very good units.
You don't really need an optical drive for anything but installing Windows. I'd ditch the optical drive and get a Windows 10 USB (It costs $110). You won't be using a disc drive for much unless you have a huge CD collection with you at college, anyways.
Operating system is fine.
Paying for anti virus solutions these days is not very fruitful. Windows Defender is adequate comes default with Windows 10. If you want extra protection, download Avira for free. You'll get the occasional ad, but it offers great protection without intruding too much. Definitely download Malwarebytes.
Don't buy a sound card. They're worthless in the face of USB DACs. The AudioQuest Dragonfly is a good cheap DAC. The Schiit Modi and ODAC are better for more money.
Wired network adapters are for connecting to a second wired network. Not meny people do that, and I don't think you're one of them. You can run a wired connection from your motherboard.
That wireless adapter is too expensive. Get a Gigabyte or TP-Link adapter for under $40 and you'll be just a happy.
Most cases come with an ample amount of fans, and Corsair fans are not the best ones to buy if you need extras. I'd advise against getting extra case fans. You just don't need them. If you really want them, though, look at Noctua. Most of their fans are poop brown color, but they work really well.
The Acer is about as good as you're going to get if you want a cheap 144hz monitor. No need to change this.
The only good Razer product to this day is the Deathadder mouse, so I put it on your list instead of the RAT 7, which is notorious for breaking a lot. In place of the Blackwidow, which is pretty much a knockoff mechanical keyboard, I chose a slightly more expensive but much better keyboard. MX browns are relatively quiet and versatile switches that are just as good for freshman writing seminar as they are for gaming. It has RGB backlights, too!
The Razer Kraken is BAD. It's really bad. Just don't bother with it. I'd normally recommend the Sennheiser HD 558/598s with an Antlion Modmic, but that totals to $200, so I just put down the Kingston HyperX Cloud. It's $3 more dollars for a much better headset.
Here's a rule: $20 are bad. For $20, the improvement you get over your monitor speakers is minimal at best. Either save some money and buy a set once you have $100 to spend, or stick to monitor speakers and headphones. I chose headphones, so I can't give too much advice here.
Anyways, here's the list I put together for you:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor | $229.99 @ SuperBiiz
CPU Cooler | CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler | $34.99 @ Amazon
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-Z170X-Gaming 5 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $151.75 @ Amazon
Memory | Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $93.99 @ Jet
Storage | Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $164.99 @ Jet
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $71.99 @ SuperBiiz
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB SC Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card | $407.99 @ Amazon
Case | Fractal Design Define R5 w/Window (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case | $84.99 @ NCIX US
Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $74.99 @ Jet
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $90.72 @ Amazon
Wireless Network Adapter | TP-Link TL-WDN4800 PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n Wi-Fi Adapter | $37.99 @ SuperBiiz
Monitor | Acer GN246HL 24.0" 1920x1080 144Hz Monitor | $188.83 @ Jet
Mouse | Razer DeathAdder Chroma Wired Optical Mouse | $49.96 @ Amazon
Headphones | Kingston HyperX Cloud II 7.1 Channel Headset | $96.95 @ Amazon
Other | iKBC F87 RGB Double-Shot PBT Tenkeyless Compact Size Mechanical Gaming Keyboard with Cherry MX Black Switch, Black | $126.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $1907.11
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-12-28 04:35 EST-0500 |
$60 less and it'll last a good year longer. Probably more. Whatever happens, good luck!
To add to this: If you're looking to install Windows you can buy a Windows 10 installation USB off Amazon. Just plug the USB drive in before you turn on the PC and follow the installation prompts once it's powered on.
Any PC from the shelf has Windows 10 installed.
If you decide to build a PC yourself you will need a Windows 10 license.
You can get the OEM version which is just the license key or you could go with the USB version which has a Windows 10 installation USB:
https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Home-Flash-Drive/dp/B01019T6O0/ref=sr_1_3?s=software&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1479156569&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=windows+10
Hi buildapc! I'm building my new pc this weekend and I need to purchase windows. Is there any special way I have to get W10 on my pc?
I planned on doing the USB Flash drive version of W10 Home but I wanted to double check this method since this is my first build! Thanks!
(this one! https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Home-Flash-Drive/dp/B01019T6O0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1506015608&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=windows+10)
But those keys are not legitimate and Microsoft deactivates them as soon as they find out about them. It is in violation of the Terms Of Service.
This listing is legit: https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Home-Flash-Drive/dp/B01019T6O0
The cheapest legitimate listing is $80 currently.
If you bought an optical drive
Alternatively, you could use options suggested by /u/Scooter30, or purchase a Windows 10 USB w/key from places such as Amazon
Both is possible. https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Home-Flash-Drive/dp/B01019T6O0 is the pre-installed stick, but one can also download the iso and put it on a drive.
That would make things a lot easier. The only SSD for that price and size is this Sandisk. Think it'd be decent?
And then in regards to Windows 10 do I want just the general Windows Home 10 on a flash drive or the System Builder version? Someone once told me not to get the system builder because it can't be transferred if you get a new computer?
You can order a flash drive from Amazon.
Microsoft Windows 10 Home USB Flash Drive https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01019T6O0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_h5lvyb9Q533K3
I won't tell you to pirate something. I will say that I just bought one of these and it was really convenient. If you do have a windows key, you can get the .iso and make a usb install drive yourself, and use your key during installation.
Edit: If you mean actually installing windows, its really easy, once you get your machine to the BIOS, you can just set it to boot from USB and windows will start installing, you just click through a few steps.
I'll just leave this here:
https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Home-Flash-Drive/dp/B01019T6O0
There is no disc version. You can get the USB here.
1 more link
https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Home-Flash-Drive/dp/B01019T6O0/ref=pd_sbs_65_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B01019T6O0&amp;pd_rd_r=X4FG0A40GRKPQZGV0F6E&amp;pd_rd_w=2ZpYm&amp;pd_rd_wg=qQabO&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=X4FG0A40GRKPQZGV0F6E
Yes, from a DVD or a Flash Drive from Microsoft.
Good to know. For this build it looks like I'd be good to have Windows 10 ready to install on a USB as there will be no disk drive (which I'm OK with). This looks like what I would need.
&nbsp;
https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Home-Flash-Drive/dp/B01019T6O0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1502889994&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=window+10+cd
I'm using my old fan to cool the cpu: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B009VCAJ7W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Also I have this windows 10 USB plugged into my PC: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01019T6O0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
But I don't know how to select it.
How do I check ambient temps?
Thank you for the reply!
Thanks for the info on the CPU cooler, since I'm going to be staying with the i7 6700K would it be smarter to get a water cooler? Two Cryorig coolers are standing out to me, either the air cooler H5 Universal http://pcpartpicker.com/product/jK8H99/cryorig-cpu-cooler-h5universal or the water/hybrid Cryorig A40 http://pcpartpicker.com/product/kbhj4D/cryorig-cpu-cooler-a40 I'm curious about what would be most necessary for keeping everything cool.
Thanks for the heads up on the OS key, I didn't know that was a thing when purchasing OS keys. Would going with this one from Microsoft be a safe option? https://amzn.com/B01019T6O0 Would I be able to deactivate and reactivate it to use on a different computer if need be?
You've got me interested in a power line adapter now, I'm just looking for a short term solution until I'm able to run a line to where my computer is. Are there any power line adapters in particular that you recommend?
I'm planning on bumping up the PSU to a 750, would that be enough for upgrades in the future or would an 850 be a better option? I'm already pushing my upgrade limit right now so something really beefy would be a little farther in the future. A 1070 is plenty of power for me for a little while. (I think).
Thank you for the time you put into responding to me, I really do appreciate it.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01019T6O0?keywords=windows%2010%20home&amp;qid=1450927990&amp;ref_=sr_1_2&amp;sr=8-2
Thanks for all your help, i am going off your build here for the most part. I changed up the case to get it off Amazon so I can get it in time. This is what I am looking at: Thermaltake Commander
And if possible I would like to upgrade to the CPU a bit. Depending on how much more the upgrade is. I would not consider downgrading the GPU. I'd rather put up the extra money now than a bunch more a year from now.
EDIT: Found this 4690 and this Flash version of 10
Here, try this
https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/VnKrbj
managed to fit a 1060, faster hard drive, more efficient PSU, slightly cheaper windows 10 from amazon, and a cheaper case (but this one can change based on your preferences)
*edit: link to windows 10 https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01019T6O0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
If you are buying a windows USB like this https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01019T6O0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 then no don't format the USB.
Is this the thing I'd want to buy for Windows? I'm looking for the 64 bit https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01019T6O0/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=jcunboxing-20&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=9325&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;creativeASIN=B01019T6O0&amp;linkId=26b83874cb496c0abacb12edcfc9377d
Thanks for the advice btw. It really helped :)
Windows 10 Home, 64 bit - PC part pickers shows the OEM, but I bought a bootable USB from Amazon
To install windows into the internal disk, the PC need to start the install process by "booting" the install media. This install media can be in a USB flash drive format or CD/DVD format. Get the USB format since CD/DVD are rarely used and many new PC don't come with a DVD drive.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01019T6O0/
Note that that if you are getting a pre-build PC from a major brand builder, i.e. Dell, HP, Acer etc, there is no install process or need to buy windows since windows will come pre-installed on the disk.
That's true there's no optical drive slot but I think you can just use this https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Home-Flash-Drive/dp/B01019T6O0/
Or create your own usb with the windows 10 installer and activate windows later
I always go for the USB route, usually by buying a license # and activating it once I install via USB.
However, you can also order a USB drive with Windows preinstalled
https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Home-Flash-Drive/dp/B01019T6O0
Well for example my Win 7 laptop died recently, and I am on a tight budget atm so I had to get an inexpensive old PC. It still has Windows Vista on it.
It runs like shit, and I would have loved to put my copy of Win7 on it but because when I bought it the first time, I got the "Locked down to this one specific laptop" version that came with the laptop, that isn't possible.
It also isn't possible to get Windows 10 for FREE. I would settle for Windows 10 over Vista but I can't get it. Not eligible. I would have to BUY Windows 7, 8, or 8.1 to be eligible for the upgrade.
It's only at no cost for certain people who have already paid. And in most cases, it's locked to that specific machine as much as my "Compaq Windows 7" disc is. When they buy a new computer, that license doesn't transfer over. They will have to buy it (as part of the price of the computer) again.
It costs $119.99 from Amazon (discounted from the MSRP of $159.99). It's not free.
Edit: And that Amazon version is also the OEM version which is locked to one PC once installed. If you build a new machine you'll have to pay that again.
> those got for free are retail or considered oem?
Not sure what you mean. If you buy a key in a store, online or offline, it often says OEM Key and those are a lot cheaper than others. Those are only good for one activation on one motherboard. Windows that comes with a prebuilt PC is also OEM.
If you buy the more expensive ones, those are considered retail. Those can be used on any number of Motherboards, but only one PC at a time. Unless otherwise stated.
So it really depends what you bought how this is handled.
OEM: https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Home-System-Builder/dp/B00ZSI7Y3U/
Retail: https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-FQC-08930-Windows-Professional-64-bit/dp/B00ZSHDJ4O/
Windows 10 Professional 64-bit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZSHDJ4O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8bFMxbGCNW2GP
Windows 10 Pro is $130. Stop with the $200 bullshit. You are making fake excuses to why you should get a prebuilt.
/r/microsoftsoftwareswap sells OEM keys, they are the same keys used in prebuilts. I have purchased multiple with no issue. They are completely legit.
I see, thanks!
Quick question, is this the same as this?
Simple answer is NO, it is not legit. What you need to be legit is:
Microsoft Windows 10 Pro 64 Bit System Builder OEM - $143.99
https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Pro-System-Builder/dp/B00ZSHDJ4O
I think it has to be OEM version of windows 10 pro, like this one, retail does not allow downgrading.
I did this and had no problem. I would say MS employees did not really cared. First I called if they allow downgrade and what should I do. They said yeah downgrade no problem just that I need valid windows 7 pro installation using some key, they dont care from where.
So after I had that set up, installing with valid key offline, I called second time, explained what I need and what was told to me the first time, and they just switched me to automated telephone system that activated the windows... none of them asked for that windows10 key that I had on sticker which was rather surprising.. but whatever...
Windows 10 OEM
http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Home-System-Builder/dp/B00ZSI7Y3U/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458355540&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=windows+10+oem - Home
http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-System-Builder-Disc/dp/B00ZSHDJ4O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458355540&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=windows+10+oem - Pro
Don't mess around with anything but a pure install of Windows on a nice Alienware computer.
http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-System-Builder-Disc/dp/B00ZSHDJ4O/ref=sr_1_1?s=software&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1457628353&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=windows+10+pro
not 50$ I was looking at windows 8.1 by accident, change that windows to 102$
Windows 10 Pro - Newegg - $139
Windows 10 Pro - Amazon - $139
Both are OEM licenses, meaning that they're only valid for the machine that you activate them on, and "cannot" be transferred to new hardware. Though, this seems to be poorly enforced (when doing phone activation).
The $189 quote is for the full retail license that can be transferred to another PC when it's time to upgrade. You can get the "OEM" version for less, though the license doesn't let you transfer.
I'm honestly not sure, I haven't needed to buy a key like this before. Just to let you know though, a windows 10 key is only $85 on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Home-System-Builder/dp/B00ZSI7Y3U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458413737&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=windows+10
$100 for the Pro version: http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-System-Builder-Disc/dp/B00ZSHDJ4O/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458413800&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=windows+10+key
Honestly at $150 you're probably best off just buying an OEM disk (or even home use disc) and using the key out of that.
You can probably call msoft and buy a key as well.
Unless you're in a country with messed up prices, it's pretty much the same price or cheaper just to buy a disc that comes with the key.
E; On amazon you can get the win10 pro OEM disc for like $140.
here or here
No problem. I got it here.
Just checked through my order history, lists as (EDIT: "Sold by: Amazon.com Services, Inc." is that right?) shipped and sold by amazon. I threw out the outer packaging but I remember checking to see if it was from amazon and the addresses were correct.
Humbly, the route I'd go would be to wipe the drive via BIOS if it it has a utility built in to do so, and then do a clean install from a W10 USB or W7 disc(note you'll need to sort drivers after install as mentioned). You can purchase an OEM builder's edition of the OS.
https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Pro-System-Builder/dp/B00ZSHDJ4O
If no wipe utility is present in BIOS just do it when performing the clean installation, works the same. This shouldn't take very long and makes sure that it's in the best possible state for somebody new to use as a "pre-loved" computer.
I can't state how handy an OEM system builder's OS copy is, has saved my skin many many times over the years.
not anymore though....
Okay. What are the differences here? Microsoft has it for $200 and Amazon has it for $120.
https://www.microsoftstore.com/store/msusa/en_US/pdp/Windows-10-Pro/productID.319935900
https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-FQC-08930-Windows-Professional-64-bit/dp/B00ZSHDJ4O
Your Part Picker link, forgets the Windows 10 Pro
"Centaurus Electra 2 Gaming Computer - AMD Ryzen 5 1600X Six-Core 3.9GHz O/C, 16GB 2800MHz RAM, Nvidia GTX 1070 Ti 8GB, 120GB SSD + 2TB HDD, Aftermarket cooler, Windows 10 PRO, WiFi. Fast Gaming PC!"
https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Pro-System-Builder/dp/B00ZSHDJ4O/ref=sr_1_2?s=software&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1526478151&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=windows+10+Pro+System+builder
$142 + $1212.43 (because who really remembers to do rebates) = $1355.43
$1474 - 1355.43 = $118.57 which while Amazon claims no shipping, we can assume shipping and time built putting it together and installing Windows.
Paying an extra $118 just to not have to mess with those screws is enough for me.
I built my computer from scratch and it's basically been unable to install updates since I put it together. The very first batch may have installed correctly, I can't remember. I have noticed that my (company-maintained, obviously) computer at work has never had any issues with updates, and neither has my laptop (a dual-boot Windows/Linux Mint machine which I clean installed Windows 10 on after attempting to just upgrade from Windows 7 gave me grief). So I'm wondering if it has to do with the method of installation, which in my case was from a Win10 Pro OEM disk I ordered here (risky, I know, but I needed to save money). Or maybe related to my hardware profile.
I bought this and I was wondering how to get it on my computer without an optical drive?
Oh shit, didn't realize I was on /r/buildapcsales instead of /r/bapcsalescanada.
Converting from CAD to USD, that is only $59 even with 13% sales tax.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00ZSHDJ4O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Any idea if this OS will be the right pick?
Microsoft Windows 10 Pro 64 Bit System Builder OEM | PC Disc
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZSHDJ4O?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=ox_sc_act_title_10&amp;smid=A3GY0PSTHXNOPF
Oh yeah. Windows 10, usually buy it off Amazon on a disk. If your system doesn't have an optical drive it's good to get a cheap external one you can have lying around for disks or buy the USB version.
Microsoft Windows 10 Home 64 Bit System Builder OEM | PC Disc https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZSI7Y3U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3gGGyb87D2TKN
flash drive version
Microsoft Windows 10 Home USB Flash Drive https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01019T6O0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LhGGybTH5A08S
The only thing i'd add to this is that when you don't activate windows 10 it leaves a huge watermark on all applications that aren't in fullscreen mode and doesn't allow you to personalize much without doing some cheap-tricks or registry-editing. There's room in your plan to go with a fully-activated copy and still not go over the $750. This is otherwise a great system!
is this the same as this? i want to buy it at staples because I got a coupon
Where can I buy a windows 10 license that is transferable ? https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Software-Windows-System-Builder/dp/B00ZSI7Y3U/ this one says it can't be transferred?
So I'm looking to buy some new hard drives and thought, what the hell, may as well get Windows 10 now. I brought it up on this amazon link and I'm real confused on what the hell I'm buying.
Especially this bit: "Windows 10 OEM is a full version of the operating system not an upgrade.The OEM operating system is not supported by Microsoft. To acquire Windows software with support provided by Microsoft please see our full package "Retail" product. Microsoft recommends all files and programs be backed-up prior to installation."
You can download Windows 10 and create your own bootable USB pretty easily. Then you just need valid key which you can buy from amazon for $85. (I think that $85 actually gets you the DVDs to use too along with a licence).
If you have an optical drive, you can get a OEM CD copy of Windows 10 for $85.
Or you can make your own USB key or DVD: https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10ISO
You will still need a Windows product key to activate it, though.
There are different levels of licensing though.
There are retail keys. These are the actual, and transferrable, full versions.
There are OEM keys. These can only be installed once on one computer.
There are also what are called COA or pre-installed keys that are installed by OEM manufacturers. These can't be transferred at all. They can't even be re-installed by regular means. The only route is the manufacturer supplied factory reset/restore.
All of these keys are legitimate.
Retail keys are more expensive than OEMs.
If the page you bought your key from says OEM or system builder, then you have the install once OEM license.
If it said retail or nothing, then you have a retail key.
OEM license will require doing the phone activation.
Retail key should just automatically re-activate.
OEM Win10x64 Home: http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Home-System-Builder/dp/B00ZSI7Y3U
Retail Win10x64 Home: http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Home-Flash-Drive/dp/B01019T6O0
If you bought that second link, then you are fine. It's a full retail key.
Sounds like you did, so, cool beans. Should just have to install new drivers from the MoBo website.
10 - https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Home-System-Builder/dp/B00ZSI7Y3U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1465755306&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=windows+10
Sorry, i'm having trouble understanding this, So i buy this then get a cumputer to run it then put it on a usb or am i off here. First time doing a pc build so im not sure how to do any of this correctly or the steps.
Windows is the easy part so I'll start with that: [$85 on Amazon] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZSI7Y3U).
With video editing as the primary focus, the i7-6700K is going to be your target at that budget-- and while it is overclockable, you don't need to overclock it to get better performance than the i7-6700. [This build also has an RX 480] (https://www.theaipc.com/result/c1468166669259) which should give you good to very good performance at 1080p on almost all games-- though wait a bit for it to start coming back in stock if you can, probably a week or two (the performance is great if it's at list price, stores that have it in stock are currently running $350 instead of $200).
I will say to not bother with the case in that build-- it's not going to give you the kind of airflow you may want if doing intense video editing and won't fit the motherboard properly. [This Corsair] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I0MKMG2) should do you well, though.
All told that'd be a beast of a machine for ~$1400.
Windows 10 is a software for which you need a license key (to fully and legally be allowed to use it). This key can be purchased directly from the Microsoft Store, from 3rd party retailers like Amazon, as well as from other people (can‘t help you there, because I‘ve never done that).
The software itself can be downloaded as an ISO from this Microsoft Website, which can then be used to create a bootable USB flash drive with software like Rufus.
Everything I‘ve said plus much more can be found (with pictures) in this How-To-Geek guide
What about this:
https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Home-System-Builder/dp/B00ZSI7Y3U/ref=sr_1_7?s=software&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511203215&amp;sr=1-7&amp;keywords=windows+10+professional+64+bit&amp;dpID=41us3IirK-L&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
Appears to be a legitimate copy of Windows though I am confused by "OEM".
Since my PC build will not have an optical drive can I pop the disc in my work laptop that does and put the installer on a USB drive to plug into my build?
$86 on Amazon
This disc comes with a product key right? I don't have an optical drive but need to activate win10.
It's just the Windows 10 Home Disc.
So if I purchase this , I will get a package in the mail that has a Windows install disk and a license key correct? I'll already have windows installed but I will need to just enter that key in order to actually activate windows?
Sorry if these are silly questions. I've never built my own PC before and therefore have never had to actually install windows.
Either one is fine.
https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/15088/windows-10-create-installation-media
https://smile.amazon.com/OEM-Windows-Home-64-Bit-1-Pack/dp/B00ZSI7Y3U/
Amazon has it for $92. Win10 at Amazon
and Outlet PC has it for $100 with a $10 rebate. OutletPC
Assuming Win 10 Home 64b.
CPU - Ryzen 5 1600 ($194.99)
Motherboard - MSI B350 PC MATE ATX AM4 ($88.99)
RAM - Corsair Vengeance LPX 8gb ($92.99)
Storage - Seagate Barracuda 3.5" 2tb ($59.99)
GPU - MSI GTX 1050 Ti ($224.99)
Power Supply - Corsair CXM 550w ($59.99)
OS - Windows 10 64bit ($99.99)
Wifi - Asus PCE-AC55BT B1 ($34.99)
Card Reader - Rosewill RDCR-11004 ($25.99)
Case - Corsair 200R Mid Tower ($59.99)****
TOTAL: $942.90 (Before Taxes)
****This case is a placeholder. It works in this build, but I left room for you to choose your own.
Make sure the case is a Mid Tower ATX case, and has at least one 5.25 optical drive bay.
-------------------
SPECS----
CPU: Ryzen 5 - 1600 (3.2ghz 6 core)
GPU: GTX 1050ti
RAM: 8gb DDR4
Usb2.0: 8
Usb3.0: 2
Usb3.1: 4
Card Readers: Yes
Disk Drive: No
Wifi: Yes
Bluetooth: Yes (4.0)
HDMI: Yes
Ethernet: Yes
------------------
LINKS----
CPU: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XNRQHG4/?tag=pcpapi-20
Motherboard: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XPM7FSR/?tag=pcpapi-20
RAM: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ARHBBPS/?tag=pcpapi-20
Storage: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01IEKG402/ref=dp_ob_neva_mobile
GPU: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814137055&amp;ignorebbr=1&amp;nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&amp;cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-PCPartPicker,%20LLC-_-na-_-na-_-na&amp;cm_sp=&amp;AID=10446076&amp;PID=3938566&amp;SID=
PowerSupply: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B72W0A2/?tag=pcpapi-20
OS: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZSI7Y3U/?tag=pcpapi-20
Wifi: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0713RRZMB/?tag=pcpapi-20
Card Reader: https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-2-Port-Internal-Connector-RDCR-11004/dp/B007YDJJFS
Case: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009GXZ8MM/?tag=pcpapi-20
***Oh, and if you need help with how to do it this guy is pretty good.
https://youtu.be/IhX0fOUYd8Q
It's $100 for OEM, which is often what a lot of people get when they're trying to cheap out on their OS.
https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Home-System-Builder/dp/B00ZSI7Y3U/ref=sr_1_3?s=software&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1494624352&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=microsoft+windows+10+pro+64+bit
Is this what I should purchase?
http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Home-System-Builder/dp/B00ZSI7Y3U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1457736166&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=microsoft+windows+10
Yeah there is many different versions of windows. I understand that there is a 64 bit home.
What I meant that my Windows Pro is 64 bit. Not that a home version of 64 bit didn't exist.
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832588521
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832588491
https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Home-System-Builder/dp/B00ZSHC0EO
https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Home-System-Builder/dp/B00ZSI7Y3U
Amazon - Win 10 System Builder
Amazon - Win 10 Home
Read the Q/A for the first one, it sums up the difference pretty well. Basically the liscence is tied to the motherboard, so you're back to running non-genuine if you switch it out. Also, I wouldn't trust any website like redacted that sells keys cheaply. Generally those are stolen with CC fraud or similar tricks.
If you're talking about something like [this] (https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Home-System-Builder/dp/B00ZSI7Y3U/ref=sr_1_2?s=software&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498241372&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=windows+10) (which is $92.99 for me, don't know if that's only for prime), then you can still use it without a drive. You can install via USB and then use the key.
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If you want the drive, go for it, but I just wanted you to know all your options.
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EDIT: Another option is that you can hold off on the drive now, and if you find yourself needing one down the road, just purchase a USB one. That way you're not spending money you don't need to, and you have more flexibility on case choices.
I recommend this with 11/10
cheapest windows 10 64bit would be fine. i think that is amazon at the moment
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZSI7Y3U/?tag=pcpapi-20
Okay, thanks for the info. Last questions, does this come via USB or just Disc? And if it does come USB, would that be a simple plug-and-install?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZSI7Y3U/?tag=pcpapi-20
the amazon one has 2 stars and a bunch of dodgy reviews: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00ZSI7Y3U/?tag=pcp0f-21
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And Gaming Purposes or is it overkill and unneeded?
What did you want help with the monitors?
and you can buy key online, or order a disk [here] (https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Home-System-Builder/dp/B00ZSI7Y3U)
Just get it from amazon
http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Home-System-Builder/dp/B00ZSI7Y3U/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1450803933&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=windows+10
Whoops, well at least I know that now.
I bought it over Amazon.
Huh, thanks for the info. I was assuming he bought a key that came with something like this one http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Home-System-Builder/dp/B00ZSI7Y3U/
But I forgot to take it into account that unless it's new it wouldn't work.
The legit sales of Windows do not reduce the price enough to make it worth the hassle. Suck it up and buy Windows 10 and never worry about your OS again. It's available for less than $100.
If you got it from Amazon, anyone who's not "Sold and Fulfilled by Amazon" or "Microsoft" may not be an authorized retailer, especially if the key is significantly cheaper than what they, or Microsoft, actually sell it for.
Regardless of the specifics, anything significantly cheaper than the key I linked above is grey market and is not allowed on this subreddit. If you believe that I am still being unfair or that your key is 110% legitimate, you can modmail us the link to where you got it from and we can evaluate from there.
Microsoft Windows 10 Home 64 Bit System Builder OEM | PC Disc https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZSI7Y3U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1u5wybN4V42BE
Not trolling. A Dell is also a Windows PC. So is an Acer and those can be incredibly inexpensive. Windows designates the operating system. If this isn't a Windows PC, what is it? It comes with Windows 10 on it. Microsoft doesn't make the PC (but does make the Windows installed on it).
Windows= OS. You can even buy Windows without the PC part.
Let's go back a step here. Do you know what an OS (operating system) is?
$96 for OEM Windows 10 on Amazon
There's your starting point.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZSI7Y3U/?tag=pchound-20
Installing from USB is exactly the same amount of ass pain as installing from DVD.
http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Home-System-Builder/dp/B00ZSI7Y3U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1449671622&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=windows+10+home
If you want to get a USB version for cheaper just go to best buy pick out the windows 10 home version and then show them this Microsoft Windows 10 Home 64 Bit System Builder OEM | PC Disc https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZSI7Y3U/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_rNrzwb5YFAEPS they will price match it and you can get it for about $20 cheaper, I actually did that yesterday for my new build.
You're seeing stuff from people who bought it from a reseller and not from actual Amazon then. If it's straight from Amazon, you should have an as-good-as-retail copy.
i.e. This
Where it says "fulfilled by Amazon" = You're golden.
Had these in a PCPartPicker list, but the page just vanished. Here are the parts I had.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SXMZLPK?tag=pcpapi-20&amp;linkCode=ogi&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Y3CTQNT?tag=pcpapi-20&amp;linkCode=ogi&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZG6YG1K?tag=pcpapi-20&amp;linkCode=ogi&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GTG2T7L?tag=pcpapi-20&amp;linkCode=ogi&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RF237B1?tag=pcpapi-20&amp;linkCode=ogi&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZSI7Y3U?tag=pcpapi-20&amp;linkCode=ogi&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1
https://www.newegg.com/intel-660p-series-2tb/p/N82E16820167461?Item=N82E16820167461&amp;nm_mc=AFC-RAN-COM&amp;cm_mmc=AFC-RAN-COM&amp;utm_medium=affiliates&amp;utm_source=afc-PCPartPicker&amp;AFFID=2558510&amp;AFFNAME=PCPartPicker&amp;ACRID=1&amp;ASID=https%3a%2f%2fpcpartpicker.com%2fproduct%2f7MQG3C%2fintel-660p-series-2tb-m2-2280-solid-state-drive-ssdpeknw020t8x1&amp;ranMID=44583&amp;ranEAID=2558510&amp;ranSiteID=8BacdVP0GFs-ErxICKvfvZyOvPV60mxOtw
https://www.newegg.com/evga-geforce-rtx-2080-ti-11g-p4-2383-kr/p/N82E16814487401?Item=N82E16814487401&amp;nm_mc=AFC-RAN-COM&amp;cm_mmc=AFC-RAN-COM&amp;utm_medium=affiliates&amp;utm_source=afc-PCPartPicker&amp;AFFID=2558510&amp;AFFNAME=PCPartPicker&amp;ACRID=1&amp;ASID=https%3a%2f%2fpcpartpicker.com%2fproduct%2fxvCD4D%2fevga-geforce-rtx-2080-ti-11gb-xc-ultra-gaming-video-card-11g-p4-2383-kr&amp;ranMID=44583&amp;ranEAID=2558510&amp;ranSiteID=8BacdVP0GFs-m4zbKUDsHpK4Fltu7Ftlcw
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B074PGBGHW/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1&amp;th=1
I feel like I’m missing on part that I needed to get on Newegg.
Windows 10 hasn't been free since 2016. If you don't pay for it directly, it's subsidized in hardware. https://www.amazon.com/OEM-Windows-Home-64-Bit-1-Pack/dp/B00ZSI7Y3U/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=windows+10&qid=1572223022&sr=8-3
Looks pretty good. As far as saving money goes, you can get a cheaper motherboard but that's about it unless you wanted to downgrade something.
Here's the cheapest Z170 mobo with SLI support and good reviews I could find.
You can save a couple bucks on ram.
Windows 10 went down to 79.00 on amazon, but I don't see it on pcpartpicker.
Can sacrifice some storage on the HDD if you needed to.
You also have two keyboards on there, not sure if intended or not.
Not saving you much money though.
Edited a list in. Other than this, you can browse r/buildapcsales and see if anything comes up there.
The i7-6700k has been going on sale at different retailers quite frequently the last couple months.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor | $328.89 @ OutletPC
CPU Cooler | be quiet! DARK ROCK TF 67.8 CFM Fluid Dynamic Bearing CPU Cooler | $59.90 @ Newegg
Motherboard | ASRock Z170M Extreme4 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $109.99 @ Amazon
Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws 4 Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $79.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $168.95 @ Newegg
Storage | Western Digital BLACK SERIES 4TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $196.99 @ SuperBiiz
Video Card | NVIDIA Titan X (Pascal) 12GB Video Card | $1080.00
Case | NZXT S340 Elite (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case | $89.99 @ SuperBiiz
Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA G2 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $79.49 @ SuperBiiz
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $79.00
Monitor | Asus PG279Q ROG Swift 27.0" 165Hz Monitor | $749.99 @ Best Buy
Keyboard | Razer BlackWidow Chroma Wired Gaming Keyboard | $144.99 @ Newegg
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $3168.17
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-11-11 18:03 EST-0500 |
How about this or this?
Hey! I recently ordered the components for a new pc and it's all put together and ready for OS installation. Unfortunately there was some delay in the delivery of the OS. My friend (whom I copied my build from) offered to let me use his installation disk if I could find a CD key. My question is: Will the "download" option on the microsoft site provide a CD Key that works for Windows 10 64bit OEM? I figure I will use my late-arriving windows for a future project or something. I'd rather not waste the weekend staring at my beautiful useless machine! XD
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZSI7Y3U?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s03
Edit: My appologies if this is the wrong area to post! I'm still learning reddit!
Thanks!
And that's illegal; but hey, do what you want.
I'd recommend just buying it from Amazon tbh.
An OEM copy would be ~$90 (chart). Think of that as buying 3 good quality games and then think about the amount of time you'll spend using Windows.
That's possible I suppose, this is what I ordered which was fulfilled by amazon (meaning they had the product, but it was a 3rd party's product). it came in a cardboard CD shipping case with Microsoft's details and logos on it with the key sticker attached. My point is that this issue is a Microsoft invented one that I don't have to deal with on Linux and not the first time I've had to contact Microsoft regarding key's not working (eg. after replacing certain hardware).
I'm not a uni student yet (hopefully I get accepted to the UC schools I applied to :) ). Let's say I download W10 through the ISO by USB, should I buy the Windows 10 64 Bit Full version as a DVD, and use the code since it is cheaper to get than by USB??
Here is the DVD one which is cheaper than the USB: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZSI7Y3U?keywords=Windows%2010%2064%20bit&amp;qid=1451768074&amp;ref_=sr_1_1&amp;sr=8-1
Video linked by /u/theSchmoopy:
Title|Channel|Published|Duration|Likes|Total Views
:----------:|:----------:|:----------:|:----------:|:----------:|:----------:
How to Optimize Windows 10 For GAMING & Power Users|Tech YES City|2015-09-08|0:16:10|26,309+ (96%)|1,514,598
> *Buy Windows 10 Here for Cheap - http://amzn.to/2gySFqB ...
---
^Info ^| ^/u/theSchmoopy ^can ^delete ^| ^v2.0.0
This should get you started in the right direction.
System requirements to install Windows on your Mac using Boot Camp
Boot Camp Installation & Setup Guide - Apple
How to Install Windows on a Mac With Boot Camp
Microsoft Windows 10 Home 64 Bit
Amazon, NewEgg, Microsoft, etc
Purchase a retail copy of Windows 10, Home or Pro. Vendors should offer a digital download rather than the USB key.
Please do not buy one of the incredibly sketch $30 copies of Windows...
An OEM copy, like this from NewEgg is the lowest price you should pay. OEM licenses are not transferrable though. Retail licenses are.
Anything that is not the OEM version is the non-OEM version.
Just look for the version that doesn't say OEM.
Here it is on Amazon
or On premade flash drive if you prefer
>That said, get the retail key and not the OEM. With the new Windows 10 rules, it's worth it. They bind to your MS account and can be transferred across motherboards. I purchased my first two keys in 2015. Mine has been on 3 boards, and my wife's has been on 2 boards.
Googling for retail key got me a bunch of resellers. Here are the legit US MS Store links for this:
Home: https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/p/windows-10-home/d76qx4bznwk4
Pro: https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/p/windows-10-pro/df77x4d43rkt
Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-10-Pro-Download/dp/B01019BM7O?th=1
Get this with one of these then go here to make your own. The USB that comes with windows on it gives a lot of people problems, better to make your own.
https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-10-Home-Download/dp/B01019BM7O
My bad, it's $120. So yeah, it's a few extra bucks but it's up to you if having a reusable key is worth the price difference
It seems to be happening for me too. Weird.
I don't know if you need it immediately, but you can buy a key and download from Amazon digitally and still get the same price and nearly immediate key.
Here's regular Windows 10 home. Non-OEM or anything so still all the usual transfer capabilities if you have to install it on a new PC later down the road or something.
https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-10-Home-Download/dp/B01019BM7O/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=Windows+10+Home&qid=1569007643&sr=8-4
Here are links to both Home and Pro. Once you buy it the key will (eventually) show up in your games and software library on amazon.
Microsoft Windows 10 Home | Download https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01019BM7O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_B.4ZCbS7XC70H
Microsoft Windows 10 Pro | Download https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01019BOEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_aa5ZCb8X0GRK9
I built my own computer and this is where I got mine: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B01019BM7O/ref=twister_B013GWSQJA?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Note: To download the program you have to have a credit card, though!! They use it to determine you are ordering from within the United States. Because of different program international distribution laws, I guess. If you read up on it, all digital downloads from Amazon requires a credit card, something I didn't know before first attempting it. :(
From what I read also, this copy of Windows 10 is not an OEM version, so it's possible to uninstall it from the computer you installed it on first, and use the same license to install on another computer.
This link should have everything you need to fix your issue. Fix
Somewhat urgent
So I just bought an entire new set of computer parts to get put together, but I don't have an OS. The build is a slightly older version of The Annihilator.
I've also checked around the subreddit to learn about Windows 7 vs Windows 10, as those are the only two operating systems that I think I'd want.
So here are a couple questions:
For someone who is mainly going to be gaming on this computer, what are the pros and cons of Windows 7 and 10?
Windows 10 seems to be $110 on amazon, and Windows 7 seems to be $40. Money isn't really an issue, but are either of these worth it? Is getting a bootleg copy a viable option?
Edit: thanks for the help everyone! so I got some help from a great local shop called Green PC in Tacoma Washington. What happened is they told me about how you can use Windows 7 keys to get a free upgrade to Windows 10. They sold me a really cheap old laptop with a Windows 7 key and said they'd do the upgrade and installation for free.
this ? Microsoft Windows 10 Home | Download https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01019BM7O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Rs-RAbDDPQP7D
Well if you include Windows in a $100 gaming PC budget, you've got $-10 to work with.
When I built my parents computers (a year apart) I bought one key directly from Microsoft (digital download) and the other I got from Amazon via Amazon Digital Services LLC. Everything went off without a hitch. These were full copies not OEM. Both were about the same price at the time.
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Edit: If you are attending a university your schools software department will often have windows 10 for free. It varies by institution. That is how I got mine and my wife's copy of Pro.
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https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/p/windows-10-pro/df77x4d43rkt/48DN
https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-English-Flash-Drive/dp/B01019BOEA/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_65_tr_t_2/137-4638177-4751769?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=G1DYQQPEG708K6WH4V8W&th=1
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I bought it on USB from Amazon.
For the official flash drive version: https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Home-Flash-Drive/dp/B01019T6O0
You can buy something like this
https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Home-Flash-Drive/dp/B01019T6O0#nav-top
Then you just boot off the usb.
Oh yeah I found it https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Home-Flash-Drive/dp/B01019T6O0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483688613&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=windows+10+usb+flash+drive but they are out of stock which SUCKS, so can i just do this https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10/?d2784474-fdb0-4e9d-9e47-5e88c0e053ec=True
If I am installing an optical drive on my build, and obviously have USB ports, what is the cheapest way to install Windows 10 Home 64 bit? I was going to buy a [120$ USB] (https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Home-Flash-Drive/dp/B01019T6O0?ie=UTF8&amp;keywords=windows%2010%20home%20usb&amp;qid=1465351233&amp;ref_=sr_1_1&amp;sr=8-1) copy off of Amazon, but I assume there is a much cheaper alternative.
I just ordered a new build and I got Windows 10 Home edition on a USB here: http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Home-Flash-Drive/dp/B01019T6O0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1465086591&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=windows+10+usb
This is both x32 an x64 bit editions.
With the USB option; do I purchase the Windows 10 USB Flash Drive?
Here is the link to the product in the US: https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Home-Flash-Drive/dp/B01019T6O0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468681212&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=windows+10+usb
You need to have an unused license key. If you type in your own key, it might work, but you might find your own computer telling you its copy of Windows is no longer valid.
"Media" refers to a device that contains data, such as a disc or flash drive. Windows installation media is what you use to install Windows on a computer.
The proper way to install Windows on a new computer is to purchase a package that contains a new license key and an installation media, such as this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01019T6O0
I'm about to build my first PC... I don't plan on installing an optical drive on it, but I can use the item below and simply plug it into the USB drive and boot the PC to install Windows 10 right?
https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Home-Flash-Drive/dp/B01019T6O0
Here ya go.
Win10 on Amazon
{Note: no endorsement of product or seller implied}
https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Home-Flash-Drive/dp/B01019T6O0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1469906634&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=windows+10+usb
This is an example
I looked up USB with Windows 10 on it, on Amazon it's listed for 119 dollars. That's 30 dollars more than the windows key, so I don't know if that's worth it unless I have absolutely 0 access to a PC to download the windows 10 iso. Unless there are cheaper listings for a Windows 10 USB?
http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Home-Flash-Drive/dp/B01019T6O0/ref=sr_1_2?s=software&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464934401&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=windows+10
You can do what /u/maddog1994 said but you will still need a license key.
An easier solution will be to buy the USB stick pre-loaded with the OS that comes with a license key.
http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Home-Flash-Drive/dp/B01019T6O0/
buy this one https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Home-Flash-Drive/dp/B01019T6O0 $10-20 windows are a scam
https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Home-Flash-Drive/dp/B01019T6O0
anymore questions feel free to pm or continue here :D
https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Home-Flash-Drive/dp/B01019T6O0
This?
Looks legit to me. What do you think?
https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Home-Flash-Drive/dp/B01019T6O0
You're welcome :)
I forgot but you can also just buy Win10 already on a usb like this. But it is a couple bucks more than just getting the disc code and downloading it yourself.
Your question about drivers is a great one and one that I had troubles getting answers to as well. It may be covered off by another reply but here was my experience on my first time build this weekend.
1)Built PC
2)Plugged wireless mouse/keyboard into USB drive
2)Turned on PC booted to Bios succesfully
3)Turned of PC
4)Inserted Windows 10 USB that i purchased from Amazon into the USB 3.0 port on the front of my case.
https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Home-Flash-Drive/dp/B01019T6O0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1473791516&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=windows+10
4)Inserted LAN cable into the back of the PC
5) Turned the computer back on.
6) Windows prompt popped up asking if i wanted to install windows 10.
7) Followed the prompts for set-up. (This took 10 minutes tops) so streamlined and simple for a guy that doesn't claim to be super technical.
8) On a different PC with internet access i went to my motherboard manufactures website (MSI Gaming M3).
9) Navigated to the driver download list.
10) Located the most recent LAN driver.
11) Saved it to a USB
12) Inserted the USB into my newly built computer.
13) Opened and installed the file from the USB.
14) Once this was installed Windows 10 recognized my LAN connection
15) Windows automatically identifies all drivers that need updating, downloads and installs them.
I had a ton of heartburn around the process and was amazed out how easily it all worked. Good luck and thanks for your service. Also all of your research and time spent on this sub will totally payoff. Enjoy!
https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Home-Flash-Drive/dp/B01019T6O0
So this will do me? https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Home-Flash-Drive/dp/B01019T6O0/ref=sr_1_1?s=software&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1494652206&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=windows+10+64+bit+home+usb
It should be more expensive but if you fine it cheaper that's good. You basically looking for Windows 10 with the lack of OEM in the description.
OEM is original equipment manufacturer and the idea it's a version for system builders that are selling the final product.
You want something like this. Or just a download if you don't want the stick.
The only thing that I would use the optical drive for is for installing windows 10 but if I used this https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Home-Flash-Drive/dp/B01019T6O0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1497380005&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=windows+10+usb could i get rid of the optical drive?
Just buy a spare USB and use Media Creation Tool to get Windows 10 on it.
If you want to go the way OP went, that USB shown in the picture can be bought here Do note that it can be an old version, since Windows 10 does pretty big updates from now and then, so you might need to instantly update it when you install it. Going the Media Creation Tool way would avoid this.
You're welcome! Both are easy but flash drive copy is less time consuming but more expensive, maybe shop around?
https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Home-Flash-Drive/dp/B01019T6O0/ref=sr_1_2?s=software&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493349899&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=windows+10
Are you implying downloading the OS? What other alternative should I go for?
Edit: Also, the OS I have listed there is not what I'm getting. This is
So should I buy something like this? https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Home-Flash-Drive/dp/B01019T6O0
https://www.amazon.com/version-Leopard-computer-processor-required/dp/B001AMHWP8
or
http://www.apple.com/shop/product/MC573Z/A/mac-os-x-106-snow-leopard
np
Sierra = free upgrade
So exactly as I said. 20 to 35 dollars. 20 from Apple, 35 on Amazon.
Apple has no official download method (at least no HTTP-facing method) for any of their original OS versions, other than the Mac-only App Store download.
For Macbook/Pro discs, they are labeled "Applications Install DVD" or "Mac OS X Install DVD". You need the latter to reinstall OS X. Again, if you are missing that disc, you can call Apple for a replacement or simply buy it online at Apple or Amazon.
Here you go.
This is what I did:
I lost my Snow Leopard DVD a while back. I needed to reinstall OSX on my macbook. I bought a Universal [DVD] (https://www.amazon.com/version-Leopard-computer-processor-required/dp/B001AMHWP8) for 10.6.3. Installed it then downloaded Mavericks from the App Store, then followed instructions here to create a USB installer for Mavericks.
You may be able to download it from other sources, if you do, just search for 'OS X 10.6.3 or 10.6.7'.
The DVDs that come with your Mac are 'grey' discs. They only have drivers for that specific system. So if you order them, make sure they are universal or they don't mention 'grey' discs.
>Apple sells OSX only with their laptops. If you want that OS legally, you have no other option
Oh really? Then what is this?
> Apple usually has solid tech, like Retina, SSDs, very high battery life, thin design, lightweight.
I never said they didn't. I said you can find a comparable computer from a different manufacturer for at least $200 cheaper. They use the same hardware as everyone else, so why the price difference?
>often before competition does
Is that why they were almost two full years behind in adding GPS support to their phones? Or why they still don't support Flash, effectively barring customers from accessing 30% of websites on the internet? Or maybe that's why they are currently being sued for stealing the patents of at least three other companies? Gee, they sound like they are way ahead of the curve.
>The name also has value, Aviators with the Ray-Ban logo on the lenses cost more than those without.
People who buy Ray-Ban's are just as silly as Apple fan-boys. Don't get me wrong, they have all the right in the world to be dumb. But that doesn't mean I can't call them out on it.
do you have an intel mac? you should try to upgrade to snow leopard.
EDIT: http://www.amazon.com/version-Leopard-computer-processor-required/dp/B001AMHWP8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1427763885&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=snow+leopard its cheaper some place but here it is on amazon
No, but you can buy boxed retail copies of OS X (Snow Leopard now, Lion soon). I suppose what you do with it after that is your own business, but installing it on a non-Apple machine is a violation of the license.
edit: e.g., on amazon
Can you use Amazon?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B001AMHWP8/ref=dp_olp_0?ie=UTF8&amp;condition=all
Click Here
You should be able to buy this copy of OSX SL and restore.
Heck, you can get a copy for $24.99 on Amazon.
If you can add $0.01 to that you can get it shipped free. Don't pirate the thing dude.
You can get it at the store no problem the day of or if you want to make things easy on yourself, you can pre-order it on Amazon.
Widgets:
[Microsoft Windows Home Premium 64-bit] (https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-7-Home-Premium/dp/B002DHGMK0)
[Rainmeter] (https://www.rainmeter.net/)
[Date, time, and weather] (https://lilshizzy.deviantart.com/art/Rainmeter-Encoded-v1-2-3-215992941)
[Visualizer] (https://marcopixel.deviantart.com/art/Monstercat-Visualizer-for-Rainmeter-1-8-0-486330771)
Okay, OEM is a new word I just googled. May I prod you for clarification to be certain I understand situation?
If I go buy windows 7 home premium here then I may only install it once, on one machine.
If I buy this copy of windows 7 here then I may install it on one machine, remove it, then install it on a second machine and the software won't give me any issues or complain that I've already used 'my one install' or something silly like that.
I'm assuming that the first, cheaper product is what you mean by OEM.
VMWare,
Windows. You might want to check out Google and Amazon in general, they're great resources.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002DHGMK0?ie=UTF8&amp;at=&amp;force-full-site=1&amp;ref_=aw_bottom_links
I'm looking for a brand new copy. Not a used copy.
Does not matter weather it's transferable or not firstly since you're buying this for one PC.
I've not had any troubles moving Windows Vista or 7 OEM copies from one machine to the other. They don't activate online but they activate just fine over the phone.
If you really want a retail copy this should be it and it starts at $93
Perfectly legal ways you can still get Windows 7 cheap (or even free). Also if you have Windows 8 Pro you can use your downgrade rights to get a Windows 7 Pro key if I remember rightly?
I'll give you a little more in-depth+opinion, which is probably what you're looking for here:
And welcome to the darkside! Here's a video to give you the basics during your transition.
Yeah, you buy windows just like OS X (except it costs much more). Retails for $200 but you can get it on amazon for cheaper: http://amzn.com/B002DHGMK0. You might also consider Parallels, that makes it possible to run Windows/Mac simultaneously!
The normal retail prices:
Windows 7 Upgrade: $80-100
Amazon
Office 2010 University edition is a lot cheaper than the home and student version, can be had for about $80-100 as well, you just need your .edu email address to activate it.
Amazon
Stapleshas it on sale for $84.99 right now.
Is it this http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832116773 or this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002DHLUWK/ref=mp_s_a_2?pi=SL75&amp;qid=1348102623&amp;sr=8-2
Ah, no wonder it's almost $600 bucks on Amazon - supply and demand. :/
But considering a couple other replies, I'm going to wait until I do a new build; I forgot about the whole 32-bit/64-bit thing. I'll just stick with XP until this 32-bit rig dies and build a 64-bit rig with whatever best MS OS is out there.
Source: Amazon.com
Windows 7 Pro RETAIL VERSION: $245
Window 7 Pro OEM VERSION: $140
Buying the Retail version is only slightly less expensive than buying the OEM version twice.
Here's the problem with their pricing. If Windows was always sold as $100, there weren't 11 distinct versions of the operating system available, and there was the the presumption of a roughly 5-year product cycle, no one would complain. Problem is, a full retail copy of Windows is fucking expensive, and even though you'd have to be an idiot to pay $250 or more for Windows when this will totally serve the same purpose for 99% of users, seeing copies of Windows in retail stores at $250+, and then hearing that copies of THE ONLY VERSION of MacOSX sell for $20, gives the impression that Windows is the more expensive OS by a long shot, when in reality it's closer to a draw.
And I should point out that there were only 3 years between Vista and 7, and there will only be about 3.5 years between 7 and 8.
Either way, this is a super smart move on Microsoft's part. Personally, I know I'll be handing $80 to Microsoft instead of $0 because they priced it the way they did. Now, if only they'd get rid of all the alternate versions and just release one 64-bit version, they'd be getting somewhere.
>That's ridiculous.
No it's not. What IS ridiculous is assuming that security is out of your reach just because you haven't heard of it. Close to 80% of all software vulnerabilities are the direct result of buffer overflows. Which leaves most of the remaining concerns of mine to be rettolibc and tmp racing (sorry, couldn't find a very good link on this one). All three of these issues are addressed in Gentoo Hardened & grsec with NX (Non-executable memory flags in the stack), ASLR, PIC, the Gentoo Hardened Toolchain, Role-Based Access Control and various other restrictions (/proc restrictions, chroot restrictions, et al). Go ahead, take your best shot. You're not gonna find anyway into my system. For example: this came out in April, but when it was a zero-day, I had nothing to fear. Buffer overflows? I say bring 'em on. You can't say that. And I use TrueCrypt sometimes, but it's nowhere near as complete a tool as kernel-level crypto. TC runs in user mode. Tell me, how would you configure TC to use a crypto algorithm other than the ones packaged with it? Re-write it? It's a simple modprobe to the driver stack in linux.
>You're getting closer to the truth... (Well, except the price. Try a third to half of that for most.)
Don't tell me you think home edition is an option... It's not. Discounted to $263 but still $299 MSRP. And even with that price, it's still a piece of shit.
>Where business really comes into it is that the amount of effort they put into patching security on their stretched out 90s architecture has to be enough to satisfy enough customers that they will still sell millions of copies of Windows - and they do that handily, so it's cheaper for them to fix things as they go, as they do, instead of spending an infinite amount of time and money to trace out every single possible vulnerability and fixing it before release. That would be sort of like refusing to release a car until it was physically impossible to be killed in a crash.
Are you fucking serious? You're ok with this? That's what you're riding on? Look, I don't care how secure your system isn't. You probably have nothing of worth on it anyway. You don't run infrastructure which is why you don't care about M$'s evils. I'm just saying from the perspective of a sysadmin and someone who knows better, M$ isn't an option. Because they just don't care about your data. Google, on the other hand does. You can complain that they went around and sniffed up a bunch of open traffic but who cares? It was OPEN!! If you're not running encryption on your home network, you don't care either. So one fucking guy leaked some users' data. Has the same happened since? What came of the users? Are they socially ruined? Financially wrecked? Can you name one single user from the leak? Where can I get their personal data?
>It doesn't cost me nothing; it costs my privacy
How is it that when you use Google it "costs you your privacy" but when you use Bing it doesn't? You think Microsoft isn't doing exactly the same thing Google is except on an inferior software platform? Where do you think Bing's engineers learned how to make a search engine? You think they just had a whole bunch of original ideas?
My point this whole time has been this: What you with Google's products and services is between you and Google only (except that one time that one disgruntled dude leaked). What you do with Microsoft's products and services is among you, Microsoft, and anybody with a copy of Metasploit and/or Backtrack. Microsoft doesn't care about you. They've never even made an effort to pretend like they have. They'll do anything and everything to cover the bottom line however they can. Google sells Ads. BFD. Humans don't scour your email to figure out what to sell you, Bayesian scanners do. They're wrong most of the time anyway.
>I've also seen so many unhackables get hacked by now
False. If they were unhackable, and there is such a thing, they wouldn't have been hacked. Yes, in security you have to stay ahead of the curve. But, buffer overflows right of the box? WTF? It's a 30-year-old problem and M$ still hasn't caught up. I have literally been born, raised, and educated on the threat and fixed it on my own in the time it has taken M$ to not catch up (I'm 27). You think they just haven't heard of how secure platforms address the threat? Or isn't it more likely that there's money to be made in selling insecure OSes? Why do I have to buy AV separately? Shouldn't there be a basic expectation of privacy when I BUY the f'ing OS in the first place? I find it sad that the free option is better than the paid option.
You've got a skewed definition of privacy to think M$ is affording it to you.
Google > Microsoft.
NP. If you have a student email address you can get them for ~$50. There are also 3 packs available off amazon for ~$150.
http://www.microsoft.com/student/en/us/software/windows/default.aspx
http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Premium-Upgrade-Family/dp/B002MV2MG0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1322147722&amp;sr=8-1
Outside of these programs its hard to find a single license for under $200, if they were $50 many OEMs would want a significantly more reduced price on the licenses you purchase.
The upgrade licenses are essentially retail licenses meaning they are not tied to hardware at all.
Amazon has it for $124.99:
http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Premium-Upgrade-Family/dp/B002MV2MG0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1289116579&amp;sr=8-1
I think the font may change with region or language. Image searching the 8.1 logo brought up several different fonts:
http://www.licence-activation.com/windows8.1-Windows-8.1-entreprise-cle-licence.html
http://computers.amrel.com/windows-8-1-logo/
https://www.pcsteps.com/210-download-windows-8-1/
edit:
https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-8-1-Full-Version/dp/B00EDSI7QO
There's two sorta catches that go along with PartPicker.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-4440 3.1GHz Quad-Core Processor | $191.99 @ Amazon
Motherboard | MSI Z97 PC MATE ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $107.69 @ Amazon
Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory |-
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $49.99 @ Amazon
Case | NZXT Source 210 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case | $39.99 @ Amazon
Power Supply | Corsair CSM 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $79.74 @ Amazon
Optical Drive | Samsung SH-224DB/BEBE DVD/CD Writer | $19.29 @ Amazon
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (OEM) (64-bit) |-
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $488.69
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-07-24 17:52 EDT-0400 |
Okay let's start taking it apart.
I'm hoping editing computer build questions are allowed?
Im currently building an editing computer and had some questions.
Ive been editing my gopro footage on an old power mac g5 with imovie09 and its time for an upgrade. Im going to be filming with a gopro and uploading to youtube. The computer wont be used for anything else.
This is my first build. I followed this workflow found in the side bar of /r/gopro and had the items on my amazon wish list.my family got together and bought me a bunch of stuff for my birthday!!!
|Type |Item
----------------------------|-------------------|---------
Motherboard| ASRock H77 Pro4/MVP ATX LGA1155|
Memory| Patriot Viper 3 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600|
Storage| Seagate Barracuda 1.5TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive|
Case|NZXT Source 210 Elite White ATX Mid Tower|
Power Supply|OCZ ModXStream Pro 600W 80 PLUS Certified ATX12V / EPS12V|
I still need a processor Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor
and a EVGA GeForce GTX 560 Ti 1GB Video Card as well as editing software. Im familiar with final cut but might try out some other editing programs and see what I think of them.
My questions are:
1.Will a specific editing program go better with this setup than another program?
2. Is this a good monitor? Im assuming if im just editing/uploading footage to the internet I dont really need a super expensive monitor?
3. What should I used for wireless internet? is the Rosewill 54Mbps Wireless Adapter Card (RNX-G300LX) any good?
4. Speakers? I just need something simple
5. Operating system? Microsoft Windows 8.1?
6. V7 KC0A2-4L3P Keyboard?
7. Optical mouse?
Am I missing anything?
Thanks in advance for your help. Cant wait to get the rest of the parts and start editing on a decent computer!
How about 29.99/year? Assuming 4 years between upgrades for an average user, that would be about $14 higher than the $106 you'd pay for 8.1 on Amazon right now. Considering that a one year subscription to Office 365 costs more than $70, I'm guessing most people would think it was a pretty good price.
Does it matter which one I install in my custom build pc?
http://www.amazon.com/Windows-8-1-System-Builder-64-Bit/dp/B00F3ZN2W0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1415753023&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=windows+8
http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-8-1-Full-Version/dp/B00EDSI7QO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1415753023&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=windows+8
What is the difference?
Get Avast, it's significantly better than Norton, also it's free!
As for Windows, Windows 8 is about $100 right now, but I'd recommend it since 7 isn't much cheaper. You might be able to find a better deal if you look around though. Also, if you're a college student you might be able to get it free through your school.
For a virtual machine on your Mac, you're looking for something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-8-1-Full-Version/dp/B00EDSI7QO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1421986999&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=windows+8.1+retail
The trick is searching for "Retail" versions, to be fully legit on licensing a VM for your mac.
I've been helping people pick computer parts a lot lately, and here's my go-to current build (as in, where I feel price/performance is optimized)--it's usually around $1000, NOT including monitors. I built two for my company (minus the video card), and they are wonderful. If you want to compare: CPUs, GPUs.
>Case: Corsair 200R, $73
>http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Carbide-200R-Compact-CC-9011023-WW/dp/B009GXZ8MM/
>Cases cheaper than this price point will become flimsy, break, literally cut you, and otherwise fall apart over time. I like the way the 200R is, too--no LEDs, no weird shapes, and 2.5" drive slots.
-
>Motherboard: Asus Z97-A, $145
>http://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Z97-A-DDR3-2600-Motherboards/dp/B00K2MAU5Q/
>This is a medium range motherboard with PWM case fan pins: an extremely quiet combo. It's more important than you think.
-
>CPU: i7-4790K, $336
>http://www.amazon.com/Intel-i7-4790K-Processor-Cache-BX80646I74790K/dp/B00KPRWAX8/
>While we're on CPUs: GHZ MEANS ALMOST NOTHING FOR PERFORMANCE. My 2Ghz i7 in my Mac outperforms my 4Ghz 2500K in my desktop. It's annoying that it's even mentioned in anything but overclocking guides.
-
>Memory: 16GB Corsair Vengeance (2x8GB), $130
>http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-Desktop-Memory-CMZ16GX3M2A1600C10/dp/B006EWUO22/
>I find myself always using >8GB. Task Manager tells me I'm at 9GB with lots apps but no actual games open.
-
>Graphics Card: EVGA GTX 960, $210
>http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-Dual-Link-Graphics-02G-P4-2966-KR/dp/B00SC6HAS4/
>The 960 was recently released, but the 750 and the 900 series are very powerful and power efficient, and EVGA makes great cards.
-
>PSU: Corsair CX 600W, $60
>http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Builder-Watt-EPS%C2%A0-CX600/dp/B0092ML0OC/
>I skimped on a PSU once (it was "Diablotek"). It took my motherboard and a stick of RAM with it when it died.
-
>SSD: Samsung 850 EVO 250GB, $135
>http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-75E250B-AM/dp/B00OAJ412U/
-
>OS: Windows 8.1 Full Version (not OEM), $100:
>http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-8-1-Full-Version/dp/B00EDSI7QO/
Current total: $1189 + tax, way over budget, so...
>The PSU can be replaced with a 500W EVGA for $17 less:
>http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-80PLUS-Certified-ATX12V-100-W1-0500-KR/dp/B00H33SFJU
-
>The SSD can be replaced by a 2TB 7200RPM drive, where you won't need a 2nd HDD but booting will be much slower, for $60 less:
>http://www.amazon.com/HGST-Deskstar-3-5-Inch-7200RPM-Internal/dp/B003GSLDRC/
(and get the sata3 monoprice cable)
-
>The GPU can be replaced by a GTX 750 Ti, for $65 less, but at a ~30% loss to graphics power (although it's still a great card):
>http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Superclock-Dual-Link-Graphics-02G-P4-3753-KR/dp/B00IDG3IDO
-
>The CPU can be a non-K version (at very little/no performance loss), for $36 less:
>http://www.amazon.com/Intel-Core-i7-4790-Processor-BX80646I74790/dp/B00J56YSLM
>The next step down in terms of CPU is an i5-4690, at ~30% less CPU power, for $80 less. I personally wouldn't go there.
This is at $1015 + tax--still over budget, but going much cheaper really starts to bite into your experiences (and if anyone here can recommend anything to save money, I welcome it).
As for monitors, if you're playing EVE, honestly I'd recommend a 2560x1440 monitor because spreadsheets. However, since those start around $300, my go-to cheaper monitors are the not-bad 22" 1080p ones that can be had for around $140.
>BenQ 24" flicker-free (for comfortable viewing) 1080p TN panel (for faster response times), $140:
>http://www.amazon.com/BenQ-GL2460HM-24-Inch-LED-Lit-Monitor/dp/B00IKDFL4O/
-
>Dell 22" 1080p IPS panel (for better colors and viewing angles), $134:
>http://www.amazon.com/Dell-CFGKT-IPS-LED-21-5-Inch-LED-lit-Monitor/dp/B009H0XQPU/
Source: I've done IT for the past few years, and done dozens of computer purchases/builds.
Notes: I don't buy AMD or ATI unless it's an extreme budget build. I don't buy off-brand because I've had parts break and then not have an RMA available; I've had good experience and RMA support with Corsair and EVGA. You don't really need a CD/DVD drive; you can install Windows from a USB key, but if you're unsure, CD/DVD drives are like $15. If you go with Intel/nVidia Maxwell, you won't really need a >500W PSU.
I don't like to skimp on computers much because, economically, if you're spending even 5-10% of your time waiting for your computer and you earn $10-25/hr, $1000 is paid for in somewhere between 2000-250 hours of use, yet the computer will last at least 3-5 years.
cool. So this is what I need? Why is 8 cheaper than 7? Sorry for all the questions, I do appreciate the help.
Thank you for the reply. Which of these would be better as they both say that they aren't the upgraded version.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EDSI7QO/ref=s9_simh_gw_p65_d0_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_s=center-2&amp;pf_rd_r=0ZGYREC48NKBQFNNMECS&amp;pf_rd_t=101&amp;pf_rd_p=1688200382&amp;pf_rd_i=507846
or
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F3ZN2W0/ref=s9_simh_gw_p65_d0_i2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_s=center-2&amp;pf_rd_r=0ZGYREC48NKBQFNNMECS&amp;pf_rd_t=101&amp;pf_rd_p=1688200382&amp;pf_rd_i=507846
Yesterday I went and picked up a copy of windows 8.1 for my build, but I'm not sure if I got the right one. It says that it is Windows 8.1 Full Version, but does not mention OEM at all. Will it work on a brand new PC?
This is what it looks like:
http://g-ecx.images-amazon.com/images/G/01/aplus/detail-page/B00EDSI7QO_main_image.jpg
The Windows Key is on the tower! It's a new desktop with 8.1 Pro, 64 bit. I'll get to searching for that then! Thanks
Cheapest one I can find is http://www.amazon.com/Windows-8-1-System-Builder-64-Bit/dp/B00F3ZN0CC
Would I just insert the disk and conduct the reinstallation? As in not having to do anything propr besides creating bootable media? Just wondering if I'd come up with any issues.
I would highly suggest against reinstalling Vista.
Windows 8.1U1 is sooooo much faster on old hardware. It's 100 dollars.
http://www.amazon.com/Windows-8-1-System-Builder-64-Bit/dp/B00F3ZN2W0/
add a solid state drive for 85-140 dollars.
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Electronics-EVO-Series-2-5-Inch-MZ-7TE250BW/
Get the machine between 4-8GB of ram.
All of that is less than 300 dollars and gives them a modern speed machine.
If you can get away with the current memory and a 120GB drive, itll cost ~185 bucks.
The benefit to buying Windows 8.1 PRO (http://www.amazon.com/Windows-8-1-System-Builder-64-Bit/dp/B00F3ZN0CC/) is that it comes with Win7 Pro downgrade rights. Then they will at least have 8.1 support in the long term, and can still use Win7 if they have some application that doesnt work with 8.1 yet. I recommend against downgrading to Win7 unless it is absolutely necessary.
Get your OS from [amazon.] (http://www.amazon.com/Windows-8-1-System-Builder-64-Bit/dp/B00F3ZN0CC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1398686911&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=windows+8.1)
They have free shipping to NZ, I got my OS from them and it works perfectly.
You can also look at getting your other parts from them as well.
Just ordered this, at the recommendation from you guys that I get 8.1, and that I get 64-bit OEM from a buddy of mine. Just felt like checking with you guys to make sure this is what I need hahaha.
>Which is something you clearly don't have since you are arguing that a prebuilt is better.
Being cheeky, are we?
>Send me a link to a prebuilt GAMING rig that is cheaper than a partlist with similar specs, lets say with a gtx 980.
Okay...
I just went to the HP business outlet website and I found a PC tower with Win8Pro (~$130), an intel core i7-4770 (~$370), and 500 GB HDD (~$50), 4 GB ram (~$40), a DVD drive (~$20), a business type tower case (~$20), a PSU you'll need to replace ($0), and no dedicated graphics card. I'm sure there are other components in that mix you'll re-use as well, but I'm not going to actually open the spec sheet.
These components individually add up to $670. The tower is being sold for $499. That means you'll save a minimum of $170 when starting your build with this pre-built.
The cost of your gtx980 is about $650 on a good day. Its a pretty neat card, but any rig it comes preloaded on is going to be overpriced gamer shit. So, the cost of building the above tower with that card is $670+$60 PSU+$650 GPU = $1380. The cost of buying and retrofitting is $499+$60 PSU+$650 GPU = $1209. That is a 12% discount.
Of course, that isn't a huge savings, but it is still a pretty good start for 10 minutes of looking. The reason you save money is because the PC gamer market has a premium markup: Buyers are willing to pay not only for good hardware, but for the best. The pre-built gaming rigs are marked up 30%-40%, and the gamer specific parts are also marked up 30%-40%. If you buy a business type computer, you'll be paying a lesser markup for the included components. That's why all of my computers have been workstation type models. When you buy laptops, look for models marketed to graphics designers. Business stuff and overstock is simply cheaper.
I think your note at the end is entirely /u/morpheousmarty's point though. Finding a Core 2 Duo with 2 GB RAM for $6 is highly unlikely. I'd even go so far as to say extremely rare. The same can be said for someone selling their console for $20.
Assume you found a PC for $6, but didn't have a friend that could basically give you the rest of the parts. It would break down something like this:
That's a total of $288. Granted, that's assuming that you're going for new parts. That is still cheaper than a current gen (PS4, XBone) console.
My point is that even a low-end gaming PC will cost you between $250 and $400 assuming that you aren't able to scavenge the parts as fortuitously as OP was able to. We all agree that PC is the superior gaming platform, but let's not delude ourselves into thinking that building a PC for $26 is the norm.
That's only true for OEM PCs with Windows preloaded.
The version of Windows that you can buy on its own - like this - is different.
http://www.amazon.com/Windows-8-1-System-Builder-64-Bit/dp/B00F3ZN2W0/
Sorry it took so long to reply, work always gets in the way.
I'm not going to be able to address some of your points due to my own technological illiteracy on some of these topics, but let's try.
http://www.phoronix.com/scan.php?page=article&amp;item=intel_windows81_ubuntu&amp;num=2
http://www.phoronix.com/scan.php?page=article&amp;item=steamos_windows8_linux&amp;num=2
http://www.phoronix.com/scan.php?page=article&amp;item=nvidia_gtx_titan&amp;num=4
http://www.amazon.com/Windows-8-1-System-Builder-64-Bit/dp/B00F3ZN2W0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1397106520&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=windows+8+oem
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832416776
http://www.ncix.com/detail/microsoft-windows-8-1-64bit-english-dd-91219-1018.htm
If you get the OEM version you will save a few bucks.
http://www.amazon.com/Windows-8-1-System-Builder-64-Bit/dp/B00F3ZN2W0/ref=pd_cp_sw_1
It is the same thing but with a little less packaging.
K, i eddited my part list, i realy don't wanne downgrade so i think i will take the Asus VN247H, like you recomanded. I'm a bit over the budget i was planning to be under, but i guess that doesn't realy matters. Then i will just wait a bit longer untill i have the money for the pc i think.
Here is the eddited part list:
- Motherboard:
Asus M5A78L-M/USB3 AMD 760G, SATA300 RAID
https://www.4launch.nl/shop/product/111994/-m5a78l-m-usb3-amd-760g--sata300-raid/tweakers
€57
- GPU:
MSI GTX 770 Gaming – 4 gigabyte ram
http://azerty.nl/producten/product_detail/5644/635639/msi-gtx-770-gaming-grafische-kaart-geforce-gtx-770-4-gb-gddr5-pci-express-3-0-x16-2-x-dvi-hdmi-dp.html?channel_code=40
€337
- CPU:
AMD Black Edition - AMD FX 8350
http://azerty.nl/0-3125-563663/amd-black-edition-amd-fx-835.html
€170
- CPU cooler:
Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo
http://azerty.nl/0-976-455750/cooler-master-hyper-212-evo-koeler-voor-processor-socket-775-socket-1156-socket-am2-socket-am2-socket-1366-socket-am.html
€28
- PSU:
Seasonic Voeding G Series 550W, Modulair
http://azerty.nl/0-1073-550165/seasonic-g-550-voeding.html
€87
- SSD:
Crucial SSD 2.5", 120GB, SATA600, M500
https://www.4launch.nl/shop/product/128566/-voeding-g-series-550w--modulair/tweakers#p-4-productid-137862
€64
- Case:
Ultra Defender II Black ATX Mid-tower Gaming Case
http://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Defender-Black-Mid-tower-Gaming/dp/B00D7HYL5I
€43
- RAM
Corsair Vengeance 2x8 (I can put later another 2x8 in if i ever need an upgrade)
http://azerty.nl/0-750-558322/corsair-vengeance-geheugen-16-gb-2-x-8-gb-dimm-240-pins-ddr3-1600-mhz-pc3-12800-cl10-1-5-v-niet-gebufferd-.html
€144
- HDD:
WD Blue WD10EZEX – 1 TB (7200 rpm)
http://azerty.nl/0-857-528532/wd-blue-wd10ezex-vaste-schijf-1-tb-intern-3-5-sata-600-7200-tpm-buffer-64-mb.html
€52
- Optical drive:
Samsung SH-224DB – Optical drive
http://azerty.nl/8-862-629110/samsung-sh-224db-schijfstation-dvd-rw-r-dl-dvd-ram-24x-24x-12x-serial-ata-intern-5-25-zwart.html
€20
- Windows 8.1:
Windows 8.1 System Builder OEM DVD 64-Bit
http://www.amazon.com/Windows-8-1-System-Builder-64-Bit/dp/B00F3ZN2W0/ref=sr_1_3?s=software&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1393681101&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=windows+8
€97
- Monitor:
Asus VN247H (black)
http://www.sicomputers.nl/asus-vn247h.html
€165
Totaal = €1264
_____
= €1325 ( =1831 dollar)
Lots of things to respond to there!
Yeah, when OS updates cost you $92, it becomes even harder to argue that a PC is cheaper than a console.
The key she has is good for either 32 bit or 64 bit. This is why she has both versions but one key. So, if this is the same computer that you are talking about in your original post you could re-install with 64-bit (assuming it is a 64 bit CPU) and you will be good to go. Just backup all your documents and important things and do a fresh install after formatting the drive. It will take forever to download all of WoW again but you will have to because there is no upgrade path from 32 bit to 64 bit.
If you want Windows 8 go to Amazon. Win 8.1 Pro is $92. You want System Builder as they call it now It is the full retail version of Windows 8.
You seem to be overpaying a bit for Windows:
http://www.amazon.com/Windows-8-1-System-Builder-64-Bit/dp/B00F3ZN2W0
These cables seem to be pretty good quality, they have some longer ones if 15ft isn't enough
http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-Cat5e-Ethernet-Patch-Cable/dp/B00EUHRLF6/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1426450095&amp;sr=1-5
also, looks like amazon sells W8 for a little cheaper than BH
http://www.amazon.com/Windows-8-1-System-Builder-64-Bit/dp/B00F3ZN2W0/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1426450153&amp;sr=8-7&amp;keywords=windows+8+upgrade
You could look for something like "Windows 8.1 for System Builders" or something like that. IIRC, You don't get support from Microsoft, which drops the price a bit.
Here's a link.
Did a little more reading. Turns out, the licensing is a little different. You're not allowed to run this copy of the OS for personal use. It is intended to be installed by an OEM (or "system builder") and then sold to an end-user with the computer it is installed on. *wink wink*
What do you mean, "gone"? If you mean purchasing it:-
http://www.amazon.com/Windows-Premium-System-Builder-Packaging/dp/B00H09BB16/
You didn't state your uses for this build, so here is an all around, good for many uses machine. For some reason pcpartpicker won't display the Amazon price for Windows 7 as I post this. It's $100 & here's the link
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-4440 3.1GHz Quad-Core Processor | $174.99 @ Amazon
Motherboard | ASRock B85 Pro4 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $74.99 @ Amazon
Memory | A-Data XPG V1.0 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $80.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $59.24 @ Amazon
Video Card | XFX Radeon R9 270 2GB Double Dissipation Video Card | $164.99 @ Amazon
Case | Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case | $59.99 @ Amazon
Power Supply | EVGA 500W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply | $39.99 @ Amazon
Optical Drive | Samsung SH-224DB/RSBS DVD/CD Writer | $19.99 @ Amazon
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (OEM) (64-bit) |-
Keyboard | Logitech MK120 Wired Slim Keyboard w/Optical Mouse | $14.99 @ Amazon
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $690.16
I live on planet earth, where Home Premium costs $99~ and Ultimate costs $189~ And these are OEM/Builders, not full retail price.
If you paid much less than this, I can promise it's an illegitimate copy.
I also agree with you, it offers no performance increase and only a handful of features which already have free or cheaper alternatives.
http://smile.amazon.com/Windows-Premium-System-Builder-Packaging/dp/B00H09BB16/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1410661616&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=windows+7
well... There still is Windows 7, and you can still install it on almost every PC there is
---
amazon link: here | Windows 7 install guide: here or here
This is the best I could come up with if you are going to only use amazon like you stated. There are better builds you could do for this price range, but you would have to buy from multiple merchants.
Windows 7 is manually set because PCPartPicker wouldn't set for Amazons price, also here is a link to it on amazon at the price I gave you.
If you have any more questions let me know and I'll see what I can do!
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i3-4130 3.4GHz Dual-Core Processor | $119.99 @ Amazon
Motherboard | ASRock B85 Pro4 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $86.46 @ Amazon
Memory | Crucial Ballistix Sport XT 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory | $74.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $58.00 @ Amazon
Video Card | MSI GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB TWIN FROZR Video Card | $159.99 @ Amazon
Case | Enermax OSTROG ATX Mid Tower Case | $44.99 @ Amazon
Power Supply | Corsair CX 430W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $49.99 @ Amazon
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (OEM) (64-bit) | $98.40
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $692.81
Are you a college student with a STEM major by any chance? Chances are you may be eligible for a free copy of windows or a discounted price.
If not just purchase one from amazon or any online retailer.
http://www.amazon.com/Windows-Premium-System-Builder-Packaging/dp/B00H09BB16/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1405825800&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=windows+7
Also head over the /r/buildapc and look at the sidebar on the right. Read every single article and link and you should be able to build the computer without problems and the installation of windows after along with the drivers and software you need.
You actually can, but not for cheap.
http://www.amazon.com/Windows-Premium-System-Builder-Packaging/dp/B00H09BB16/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1415425852&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=windows+7
Pretty common knowledge that PC games are less optimized for specific hardware due to the extreme variation in system specs. And the CPU/ram usage for all the background shit running on the PC at any given time.
Is this deal on windows 7 too good to be true?
http://www.play-asia.com/microsoft-windows-7-pro-oem-key-only/13/709gc7
And if it's legit, what is it missing compared to the amazon offer?
http://www.amazon.com/Windows-Premium-System-Builder-Packaging/dp/B00H09BB16/
Total is $441.42 Before rebates.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD Athlon X4 860K 3.7GHz Quad-Core Processor | $88.99 @ NCIX US
Motherboard | MSI A78M-E45 Micro ATX FM2+ Motherboard | $37.99 @ Newegg
Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws Series 4GB (1 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $38.98 @ Newegg
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $49.49 @ OutletPC
Video Card | PowerColor Radeon R9 270 2GB TurboDuo Video Card | $99.99 @ Newegg
Case | Fractal Design Core 1000 USB 3.0 MicroATX Mid Tower Case | $27.98 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Corsair Builder 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | $54.98 @ OutletPC
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $398.40
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-11-30 20:59 EST-0500 |
Windows 7 (95.88) (On a side note if you are a student you can get windows 7 and or 8 for free if you are currently attending a college Link)
in the event you can get the os for free i would then recommend this build
Before rebates cost is $570.92
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD FX-6300 3.5GHz 6-Core Processor | $89.99 @ Amazon
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-78LMT-USB3 Micro ATX AM3+ Motherboard | $45.74 @ SuperBiiz
Memory | A-Data XPG V1.0 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $76.49 @ NCIX US
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $49.49 @ OutletPC
Video Card | PowerColor Radeon R9 285 2GB TurboDuo Video Card | $179.99 @ Newegg
Case | Rosewill Line-M MicroATX Mini Tower Case | $39.99 @ Amazon
Power Supply | Corsair Builder 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | $54.98 @ OutletPC
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $536.67
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-11-30 21:06 EST-0500 |
Also, if I go with the Windows 7 OS would that make much of a difference? I'd much rather that version, unless there are some DirectX things that I'm missing or something with 8.
http://www.amazon.com/Windows-Premium-System-Builder-Packaging/dp/B00H09BB16
That's an easy google search away. Not sure how you're planning on paying for it if you're broke though.
Got links for these cheap licenses?
I didn't find anything in the $50 range /u/silencesc mentioned either. His point is good, there will often be other benefits to having a PC but if the only criteria is price for a platform to run a particular new AAA game, the console is cheaper, though they'll probably be much closer to even next year.
I'm seeing $130, $117, & $100
Amazon 7 Pro
Amazon 7 Home Premium
Newegg 7 Home Premium
https://www.amazon.com/Windows-Professional-System-Builder-Packaging/dp/B00H09BOXQ
That is Professional, here is Home Premium:
https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Premium-System-Builder/dp/B00H09BB16
In the side you can select "shipped and sold by Amazon" if you are worried about getting a legit copy.
https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Premium-System-Builder/dp/B00H09BB16
PS- if you buy Win 7, you can upgrade to Win 10, burn a Win 10 installation CD and get a product key, then go back to Win 7 and now you have options for both if you ever want to upgrade for free in the future.
What is your intended use for this build? The more details the better.
Gaming @ 1080p full settings
What is your budget (ballpark is okay)?
Pretty much as is.
In what country are you purchasing your parts?
Canada
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | [Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor] (http://www.ncix.com/detail/intel-core-i5-6600k-3-50ghz-6m-e0-110591.htm?affiliateid=7474144) | $315.99 @ NCIX
CPU Cooler | [Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO Direct Touch 4 Heatpipe Heatsink AM2 AM3 1366/1150/1155/1156/2011] (http://www.directcanada.com/products/?sku=11130AC0554&amp;vpn=RR-212E-20PK-R2&amp;manufacture=Cooler%20Master) | $35.51 @ Direct Canada
Motherboard | [ASRock Z170A-X1/3.1 Intel Skylake 1151 PCI-E HDMI 2XUSB3.1+8XUSB3.0 7.1 CH HD Audio ATX Motherboard] (http://www.directcanada.com/products/?sku=10521122225&amp;vpn=Z170A-X1/3.1&amp;manufacture=ASROCK) | $140 @ Direct Canada
Memory | [Kingston 8GB 2133MHZ DDR4 NON-ECC CL14 Dimm (Kit Of 2) Hyperxfury Black Series] (http://www.directcanada.com/products/?sku=12411111308&amp;vpn=HX421C14FBK2/8&amp;manufacture=KINGSTON) | $51.99 @ Direct canada
PSU | [Seasonic G-550 Gold 550W ATX 80PLUS Modular 120mm Fan Power Supply PSU DC to DC] (http://www.directcanada.com/products/?sku=14130AC6158&amp;vpn=SSR-550RM&amp;manufacture=SEASONIC%20ELECTRONICS) | $100 @ Direct canada
SSD | [Corsair Force Series LE 240GB SATA 3 6GB/S SSD] (http://www.directcanada.com/products/?sku=11181120459&amp;vpn=CSSD-F240GBLEB&amp;manufacture=CORSAIR) | $90 @ Direct canada
OS | [Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 64bit System Builder OEM DVD 1 Pack - Frustration-Free Packaging] (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00H09BB16/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1VAYWJZHJ9ML3&amp;psc=1) | $60 @ Amazon
Case | [Corsair Carbide Series 100R Black Gaming Case Atx 2X5.25 4X3.5 Front USB3.0 Audio No Psu] (http://www.directcanada.com/products/?sku=11181104948&amp;vpn=CC-9011075-WW&amp;manufacture=CORSAIR) | $54 @ direct canada
|| Total
| (Prices when available.) |$860.00~"
Provide any additional details you wish below.
I don't know if I should go with the PSU I have chosen. I have 2 other options I'm thinking about: 1) ($110) EVGA SuperNOVA 550 G2 80PLUS Gold Certified 550W Fully-Modular Power Supply w/ 7yr Wty http://www.directcanada.com/products/?sku=11611111661&amp;vpn=220-G2-0550-Y1&amp;manufacture=EVGA
2) ($105) EVGA SUPERNOVA 750 B2 80 PLUS BRONZE CERTIFIED 750W POWER SUPPLY 140MM FAN 5YR WTY http://www.directcanada.com/products/?sku=16950AC8401&amp;vpn=110-B2-0750-VR&amp;manufacture=EVGA
What would you recommend?
Is the SSD I have chosen good?
Also, I will be buying a gtx 1060 but I am unsure about which brand/model to pursue. Any suggestions are welcomed. I'm currently looking at a zotac model: ($330) The Zotac GeForce GTX 1060 Mini 1708/1506 6GB GDDR5 G-SYNC VR Ready Video Card http://www.directcanada.com/products/?sku=26671133557&amp;vpn=ZT-P10600A-10L&amp;manufacture=Zotac
Component | Quantity | Price
---|---|----
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00I9XOSLW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A2OO5Y1QFZ9J90| 1 | 25.85
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0054U7HIO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_7?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A17AS5ETPMZ9A1 | 1 | 48.95
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B009O40UJO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_8?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A1AUCPBF2P18HS | 1 | 53.02
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B004CRSM4I/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A1AUCPBF2P18HS| 1 | 80.23
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0088PUEPK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE | 1 | 39.99
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00IGQ4UX8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE | 1 | 104.98
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B009RMP14M/ref=ox_sc_act_title_9?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE | 1 | 29.99
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00CC6YN6M/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE| 1 | 12.34
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00H09BB16/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE| 1 | 69.99
Total | 9 | 465.34
All prices in Pounds. Sorry I had to do it like this, I don't know why the link didn't work properly.
Edit: don't worry, use this: http://i.imgur.com/K4vMRzh.png
Phew. Thanks for the heads up because it looks like my copy was OEM. Luckily I ordered it tonight, and I was still able to cancel.
(This is what I had ordered http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H09BB16)
So let me get this straight, I'm still a little confused. The link above provides an OEM key, and in order to download the ISO (from https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows7), I'd need to enter in a non-OEM (or COA, whatever you call it) key?
How exactly would I go about that? I'd like to make the purchase through Amazon, but all I'm seeing is OEM keys, and it doesn't look like Microsoft sells Windows 7 keys through their site (they're really pushing Windows 10 now).
Here you go fam-fam: http://smile.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00H09BB16 ($60 open box [Windows 7 Home Premium])
Do yourself a favour for the next 3 years.
windows 7
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832416804
http://www.amazon.com/Windows-Professional-System-Builder-Packaging/dp/B00H09BOXQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1397225784&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=windows+7+pro
Best I could do. Can't buy the other parts at CEX and I also wouldn't recommend it either, you don't want to buy a refurbished motherboard & PSU.
A CPU is fine, but they don't have it on their website. But you don't want to get a crap CPU either.
A case is also fine, as long as it fits M-ATX motherboards!
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD A10-7700K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor | £67.98 @ Ebuyer
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-F2A68HM-HD2 Micro ATX FM2+ Motherboard | £36.98 @ Novatech
Memory | RANDOM BRAND 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1333 Memory | £15.00 @ CEX
Storage | RANDOM BRAND 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | £25.00 @ CEX
Case | BitFenix Nova ATX Mid Tower Case | £23.99 @ Overclockers.co.uk
Power Supply | XFX XT 400W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | £32.99 @ Novatech
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 7 Professional SP1 OEM (64-bit) | £28.00 @ Amazon UK
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | £229.94
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-24 20:18 BST+0100 |
If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask!
https://www.alternate.es/Intel(R)/i5-6400/html/product/1210164?tk=7&amp;lk=10232
https://www.alternate.es/MSI/H110M-PRO-D/html/product/1241708?tk=7&amp;lk=10231
https://www.alternate.es/Crucial/8GB-PC4-17000/html/product/1253413?tk=7&amp;lk=8897
https://www.alternate.es/Western-Digital/WD10EZEX-1-TB/html/product/1013040?tk=7&amp;lk=6605
https://www.alternate.es/Gainward/GeForce-GTX-970-Phoenix/html/product/1220405?tk=7&amp;lk=6676
https://www.alternate.es/Zalman/Z1-Neo/html/product/1236515?tk=7&amp;lk=6654
https://www.alternate.es/Seasonic/S12II-520-(SS-520GB)/html/product/143539?tk=7&amp;lk=6784
https://www.alternate.es/HannsG/HS221HPB/html/product/1147365?tk=7&amp;lk=9812
cost=833.57
for OS you could try this one https://www.amazon.es/Microsoft-Windows-PRO-SP1-64-bit/dp/B00H09BOXQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1462955452&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=windows or try /r/microsoftsoftwareswap or try the yaaaaaaaaar way.
could not get you something like an i7 in the build for the video editing.It should still do fine(16gb ram could help depending on how heavy your projects are)
What Xbox? I'm not talking about any Xbox. I'm talking about the cost of buying a gaming PC, not comparing any two things. My only claim is that you can't get a good enough gaming computer for sub-$700.
Also, Windows 7 on Amazon is $129.99. Maybe there's a cheaper copy of Win7 Home, but I didn't see one.
That should work, but I would get a better motherboard than I have on my list and 8 gigs of ram instead of 4.
edit: that would give you something more like this which is closer to your budget. you can get windows 7 refurbished from amazon and use the key to install windows 10.
Wtf are you saying i have already issue that there is a psu listed that left us with 50 dollars for this windows key and i have already posted this like 3 times and you keep ignoring
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LG20IB2/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1464509589&amp;sr=8-4&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=windows+7&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41snm1MCh0L&amp;ref=plSrch
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LG20IB2/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1464505063&amp;sr=8-4&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=windows+7&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41snm1MCh0L&amp;ref=plSrch
This is Microsoft through Amazon. Reviews says you can use this for a PC that doesn't have a OS. $50
If I buy this to install on my new PC I'm building, can I upgrade to a 64-bit version of Windows 10? Alternatively, should I just buy the 64-bit version?
Country? Amazon has it for $119.99: Amazon
>called in sick at work so i could fix my computer
Microsoft Corp. would like you to know that it fully supports and endorses its customers valiant efforts in virus removal. Your dedication and determination helps us build a better operating system. Remember - it was your idea.
Upgrade to Windows® 7 now for just $119.99
Windows 7 Home Premium costs about $122
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002DHLUWK/ref=amb_link_85809131_4?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_s=browse&amp;pf_rd_r=137PN8K4A592XDEP7R8R&amp;pf_rd_t=101&amp;pf_rd_p=1330611142&amp;pf_rd_i=1286119011
Windows 8.1 is currently $100 on Amazon, so there's $20 off to start with. http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-8-1-Full-Version/dp/B00EDSI7QO/
$100 is a decent amount of money for a student or someone unemployed, but it's important to remember that the software is what makes your computer run. If you drive a car, you invest more than that each month in your vehicle's operations (i.e. buying gas) -- in that context, how much of a burden is it really to put down $100 every couple of years to upgrade/maintain something you rely on every day?
Edit: If you are a student, you have access to Windows licenses free or very cheaply through your school -- look into that.
Edit 2: If you're OK with reinstalling Windows 7 and then upgrading, Windows 8 upgrade licenses can be obtained for $75-$80.
I am not sure you know what OEM is. If you have an install disc for Windows 7 from Microsoft, it is a Retail copy, not OEM. If it was an OEM install disc, it would of came form the PC manufacturer.
Windows 8 is available for OEM and upgrade only to most people. Meaning you can only get it if you have Windows XP/Vista/7 or you buy a new computer from a manufacturer. If you want a physical install disc and a retail copy of Windows 8, you need an MSDN subscription to get it (I am a college student, so I can get one).
You cannot transfer (not suppose to be able to at least) to transfer a non-retail Windows 8 key to a new machine. That means once you install Windows 8 on a harddrive, it has to stay there (you can probably ghost it to transfer it to a new one). If you want to reinstall Windows 8 on the same machine, you can "Remove Everything and Reinstall Windows". It is an option in the settings.
EDIT: It looks like you want the Windows 8 System Builder OEM. It gives you a physical disc and product key, but I do not know if it lets you reuse the product key. Also, it looks like Windows 8.1 will have a Retail version available to the public if you just want to wait and get that install (upgrading from Windows 8 to 8.1 is free, but you could get this as an alternative to Windows 8).
>Those prices are innacurate
Err, no they're not. That's what they are trying to sell it to consumers for.
http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-8-1-Full-Version/dp/B00EDSI7QO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1382047633&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=windows+8
http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-8-1-Pro-Version/dp/B00EDSI8HW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1382047792&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=windows+8+pro
Windows 8 Full version $119.99 from amazon.com.
Windows 8 Pro $197.80 from amazon.com.
OEM versions aren't pushed at individuals by Microsoft. The one they want you to buy is the regular, off the shelf version - hence they must be smoking crack if they think they can sell it for $120 or $200.
OS: http://www.amazon.com/Windows-8-1-System-Builder-64-Bit/dp/B00F3ZN2W0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1414087463&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=windows+8.1
I had to pick Amazon only as it ships everywhere.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD FX-6300 3.5GHz 6-Core Processor | $96.98 @ Amazon
Motherboard | MSI 760GMA-P34(FX) Micro ATX AM3+ Motherboard | $46.99 @ Amazon
Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $82.89 @ Amazon
Storage | Crucial M500 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $64.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $54.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | Asus GeForce GTX 760 2GB DirectCU II Video Card | $214.99 @ Amazon
Case | Cougar Spike MicroATX Mini Tower Case | $34.99 @ Amazon
Power Supply | Corsair Builder 430W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | $43.33 @ Amazon
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 8.1 Pro (OEM) (64-bit) | $92.00
Monitor | Acer G226HQLBbd 60Hz 21.5" Monitor | $137.46 @ Amazon
Keyboard | Cooler Master CM Storm Devastator Gaming Bundle Wired Gaming Keyboard w/Optical Mouse | $29.99 @ Amazon
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $899.60
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-10-23 14:20 EDT-0400 |
If you want to be closer to your budget take away the SSD. It will only make things boot faster.
I can understand how this might not make sense for some, but here are a few reasons why I made the recommendation:
From a UX standpoint, going to Windows 8.1 will be a bit more jarring for a user coming from XP. Don't get me wrong, I'm a big fan of 8.1, but with the UX improvements made in Windows 10, it's hard to recommend 8.1 for devices other than touch-enabled ones.
I understand the risks that come with running pre-release OS code, however, with the rapid release cadence of the Technical Preview, it can only stand to get better over time.
Windows 7 is over 5 years old. Being an older OS, you run many risks in terms of 3rd party software and hardware support. Additionally, Windows 7 will go out of mainstream support in January 2015 and out of extended support in January 2020 (http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/lifecycle). If I were going to spend money, I would go for a newer OS.
By downloading the TP now, you can use the OS for "free" until it hits GA and dip your feet into the new OS without having to buy anything. If you don't like it, then buy 7 or 8.1.
However, I posted the original recommendation before you posted your system specs and it looks as though your CPU doesn't support the CPU extensions necessary for Windows 8+.
http://windows.microsoft.com/en-US/windows-8/what-is-pae-nx-sse2
Your only option is to buy Windows 7, and since you only have 2GB RAM, you should use the 32-bit version. Unless you need the Pro features, I would go with Home Premium, which can be found at the following links:
http://www.amazon.com/Windows-Premium-System-Builder-Packaging/dp/B00GOUBT6E/
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832416805
https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Premium-System-Builder/dp/B00H09BB16
I would use this opportunity to move to an open source ecosystem. Look into Ubuntu.
P.S. if not, http://www.amazon.com/Windows-Professional-System-Builder-Packaging/dp/B00H09BOXQ/ is cheap enough
Amazon has Windows 7 Pro SP1 x64 for $139.99
http://www.amazon.com/Windows-Professional-System-Builder-Packaging/dp/B00H09BOXQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1412809662&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=windows+7+professional
My question though is why would you buy an OS that is scheduled to be retired on January of 2015. Windows 10 is just around the corner and all rumors are saying Windows 8 and 8.1 users will get Win 10 for free (or heavily discounted). If your an organization and need Windows 7, you should just pony up and pay the full price. If your a home user. Buy the latest OS that will work with your hardware. You can tweak 8.1 to look a lot like Windows 7 and it only helps you to learn a new OS.
If you are willing to pirate, it is . . . :P
If you want go legit, you can run XP inside Win7, and Win7 is not that expensive (~$140 on Amazon):
http://www.amazon.com/Windows-Professional-System-Builder-Packaging/dp/B00H09BOXQ
If your Mac can run Win7 in BootCamp (some newer ones require Win8), this is one I recommend you get.
Otherwise, get the 32-bit version for a VM.
It's compatibility is higher, and it will be less of a strain on your system . . .
Oh I'm so sorry for the mistake. Here's a free* copy of Windows 7 for you!
Sincerely,
Bill Gates
*^This ^copy ^is ^in ^no ^way ^free, ^and ^never ^will ^be. ^By ^agreeing ^to ^the ^terms ^and ^conditions ^you ^accept ^for ^us ^to ^do ^whatever ^we ^want ^with ^your ^computer, ^including ^re-upgrading ^it ^up ^to ^windows ^10 ^FOR ^FREE^, ^or ^bundling ^other ^software ^^^^^^(spyware) ^such ^as ^cortana.
> they upgraded everyone from previous versions for free.
Show me where windows 10 is free.
Price History
CamelCamelCamel │ Keepa
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Call the Bishop, these prices are sinful.
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>Operating SystemMicrosoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit$99.95 @ Amazon
Nope, I clicked on the amazon link which sent me to a page with the product titled "Microsoft OEM Windows 10 Home, 64-Bit, 1-Pack, DVD"
Is that a DVD?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZSI7Y3U/?tag=pcpapi-20
Yes: "Consider the RoI of limited-scale hardware refresh in lieu of buying Windows 10 Pro retail licenses for $189 to $199 each. It's likely that most desktop hardware without an OEM license dates from 2015 or earlier, after all. Then repurpose the original hardware to uses that don't benefit from such licenses."
> You can find legit copies of Windows 10 for ~$50.
I see a legit copy for $119. Point me to one that is about $50. Can't use Dreamspark keys, because those can't be sold.
> oem >win 7 (8, 8.1, 10) nu sunt legale, sunt doar pentru firme care construiesc sisteme. gen acer dell samd.
Poti sa ne luminezi si pe noi de unde stii? Ca emag si toate magazinele mari vand la greu ilegale din astea.
Aoleu, si amazon s-a dat pe ilegale! https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Home-System-Builder/dp/B00ZSI7Y3U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480021983&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=windows+oem
yeah, MS' operating system totally doesn't generate any money
MacOS $29.00 is much cheaper than Windows $153.09 - $275.54.
You need to buy this to be guaranteed it will work.
If you are talking about a pirate version then this should help: http://www.amazon.com/Windows-8-1-System-Builder-64-Bit/dp/B00F3ZN2W0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1382731178&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=windows+8
Oh, I don't know, the Internet?
http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Home-Premium-Upgrade/dp/B002DHLUWK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;s=software&amp;qid=1246861123&amp;sr=8-1
There's this really cool new website called Google.com, you might want to try it out sometime. :p
64 bit is supposedly included in that package. Lots of other places offer the same deal - Newegg has it (check their front page) and the Microsoft Store has it. I ordered from Amazon because I thought they'd do the best job of getting it to me on time.
$100 for Professional, by the way.
You're right. I forgot MS doesn't charge for it at all.
Otherwise Linux would have no advantage, cost wise, over Windows.
Oh wait....
http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-8-1-Full-Version/dp/B00EDSI7QO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1395095352&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=windows+8
This
Didn't think of looking up specific hardware prices until you said this so here you go:
GTX 980M $340
i7-6700HQ $380
4K Display $200
32GB RAM $145
256GB NVMe SSD $103
1TB HDD $50
Backpack $75
Windows 10 $99
I pay for shipping, $0.
Total: $1392
I'll update my price to $1000.
When I was looking to post this a week ago I had a hard time finding how to price this since when I bought it I bought the upgraded version of it, so when I looked online I either saw worse models for less, and slightly better models for far more. I could never find one with my exact specs.
Lo and behold, the day before I post, someone puts up an Ebay bid for a slightly worse model at $800 + shipping, but when I look on Amazon I still see $1800, $1700, etc.
I saw as low as $700 for an Alienware 15 R2, and as high as $2100 for an Alienware 17 R3 but with a GTX 1080, and newer processor. I asked friends and their suggestions ranged from $1200-1900.
What would you say is the best approach for correctly valuing your tech? I'm just trying to find a fair price for both parties.
That's false information.
https://blog.fosketts.net/2015/11/09/how-to-connect-a-4k-monitor-to-a-2012-retina-macbook-pro/
The issue is it does 4k scaled, so stuff isn't any smaller.
If you don't have the money to buy a 2018 MacBook Pro, then the money you'd spend on a Mac Mini would be better spent on a windows desktop. It runs all your software, will perform better in League, is smaller.
For instance;
Intel NUC for $380,
500GB Crucial P1 M.2 SSD for $70
16GB RAM for $100
Windows 10 for $130
Total cost is ~$700 + tax instead of $800 + tax for the base mini, and you get 4x as much storage and 2x as much RAM. A mini with those specs would be $1400. You can even bring it down to ~$600 if you bring the storage to 250GB and 8GB RAM.
You also get a better CPU; instead of a 4-core 4-thread CPU with a 3.6GHz with no turbo (and lots of throttling), you get a 2.3GHz 4-core 8-thread CPU with a 3.8GHz turbo. So it will do single-threaded and multi-threaded tasks faster. All tasks.
Both can do 4k 60Hz.
HEY! Uninstall the included version of Windows 8.1^TM and get Windows Desktop Edition!