Best optoelectronic products according to redditors

We found 219 Reddit comments discussing the best optoelectronic products. We ranked the 107 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Subcategories:

Diode lasers
Infrared emitters
Lamp holders
Optoelectronic lamps
Optocouplers
Optoelectronic displays
LEDs
Optoisolators
Optotransceivers
Photo detectors

Top Reddit comments about Optoelectronic Products:

u/TheSixthDegree_ · 27 pointsr/smashbros

Sure thing! I should've taken pictures of the process... Silly me.

What you need:

  • Gamecube controller with clear back (the indigo + clear ones don't cost too much; I got one for $19 in great condition. I then swapped the indigo front with a black shell.)

  • LEDs in the colors you want (I got this pack)

  • Resistors (I used the 1/4 watt 200 ohm resistors that came with the
    LEDs)

  • A tri-wing screwdriver

  • Electrical wire (I actually used parts of an unused ribbon cable for old computer hard drives)

  • A soldering iron

    Step 1: Open the Gamecube controller. Make sure it is facing down when you take apart the shell or all the pieces will come out.

    Step 2: Take out the circuit board.

    Step 3: Near the top of the board there are six wires together that are part of the controller cord. Solder one end of a resistor where the yellow wire meets the board (on the other side, where said wires are soldered on).

    Step 4: Solder the other end of the resistor to the positive end of the LED (the longer end). I soldered both green LEDs to one resistor.

    Step 5: Solder the negative end of the LED to where the black wire meets the board.

    Step 6: Close up the controller.

    This is actually the hardest part! Don't use any more wires than you need, and don't go overboard with the number of LEDs (4 was what I did - I wouldn't recommend any more).

    For LEDs that flash when the controller rumbles, just solder the positive and negative ends of the LED to where the rumble motor is soldered on the circuit board. I didn't use a resistor for this part since the LEDs were white, but you can use them if you want.

    Hope this helped!
u/redlotusaustin · 7 pointsr/homeautomation

If you don't mind going the DIY route, you could probably come in under $100 for parts for the strips:

u/imtherealist · 7 pointsr/macsetups

Monitor: Asus 29'' Ultrawide Monitor - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ENCTVDS/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Lights: Daffodil Touch Lights - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J5DZJJU/ref=oh_details_o00_s01_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Mice: Razer Mabma (I think need to double check) and Apple Magic Mouse

External Hard Drive - Seagate Backup Plus 3TB (Totally worth it!)

Keyboard: something dell?

Computer(s): Running on screen-MacBook Pro Retina Mid 2012. 4GB Ram, 2.3ghz processor.

Custom build - Will post details when I'm home!!

I will take a better picture when I am home too!

u/callmejeremy · 5 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Ahhh, well since you give me a great link to the molding side of it, maybe I can help you on the controller side.

Fibaro RGBW Micro Controller Z-wave, Works with RGB/RGBW LED Strips

Now, I know what you'll think, because I thought it too - $70 for a dinky Z-Wave LED light controller? WTF?!

But it's actually so much more. Besides DC in (BTW, it takes 12 or 24volts, too) & Ground there's "IN1", "IN2", "IN3", "IN4", "R", "G", "B", "W". And the manual is odd too. You connect the LEDs up, then you have to wire switches into it too, etc etc - I haven't totally figured it out, but it's kinda neat. Also you can get it running on SmartThings. I've just migrated from ST to Home Assistant with a Aeotec Z-Wave stick and a deConz Zigbee stick.

The 4 "IN"s can be used for multiple sensors - which I might have to give a shot.

Anyway, what I've done is hookup 2 light strips to the controller - one is RGB, the other cold white (It's what I have at hand, and I like the color reproduction etc etc, haven't played with many RGBW lights). I typically use a white LED strip with 60 LEDs/meter, and then the RGB is 120 LEDs/meter.

You can control almost an unlimited number of strips with the one Fibaro controller - the secret is to add in RGB LED Amplifiers when the colors start going wonky. Honestly, they're cheap enough I do it between every set of LEDs I intend to connect together.

In testing, I found I like the look for the RGB LEDs closer to the wall, and then the White strip.

So there you go - hope I didn't confuse you there, trying to bang this out and get back to running ethernet throughout the house. Let me know if you have any questions.

u/ContextRemoved · 5 pointsr/whatisthisthing

I agree. Very similar to the type that [TiVos used.] (http://www.amazon.com/TiVo-Head-IR-Emitter-Blaster/dp/B0054MAVXA)

u/farptr · 4 pointsr/raspberry_pi

A lot of the Raspberry Pi LCDs are actually HDMI. Find one that has a micro USB socket for power e.g this waveshare LCD. There is a lot of LCDs to choose from.

u/cleansweep9 · 4 pointsr/homeautomation

I spent a little time looking into lighting one room in my house solely with LED strips last year. I was primarily looking at cheap, 5-meter strips on Amazon, and thinking of controlling them with something like Fibaro's Zwave controller. Some things might have changed in the last year, but probably not much:

LED strips (generally) aren't as efficient as LED bulbs. It's hard to pin down numbers on this, and I may be wrong, but that's the impression I got after a lot of reading.

Low-voltage DC wiring over long distances has significant problems: Voltage drop and current limits are a function of the length and diameter of the wire, respectively. A 3 volt drop is insignificant for 120V AC power, but is 25% of 12V system. Power (watts, which will correspond to lumens) is a function of voltage and current. If you reduce the voltage by a factor of 10 (120 to 12) you lose 90% of the power you can shove through a given wire. You can compensate by using thicker diameter wire (expensive) or running higher voltage DC power (24 or even 48 volt).

You already touched on the price and length issue: With LED strips, you generally determine the length of the strip by the length of the wall or ceiling you want to run the strip along (even if a meter of LED strip provides enough light for the room, you don't want a single meter of LED strip in the center of the ceiling - that would just look weird).

I do have some LED strips in my house - they're fantastic for above and below cabinets, and I also have a couple strips above my workbench - it's almost impossible to cast a shadow on my workbench now.


Edit: I forgot to mention Wife-Approval-Factor - my wife absolutely refused to have "exposed" LED strips anywhere in the main living areas. And she has a point - they're not the most aesthetically-pleasing light sources. That limits you to indirect lighting (which you already specified) and means fewer lumens go to lighting the whole room, and you have to figure out tasteful way to hide the strips.


Anyway, that's my ramble on LED strips. Hopefully some part of it was useful.

Good luck with your new house!

u/wietoolow · 4 pointsr/HomeImprovement

You should redesign this and remove that as you call it 'fancy switch' and get a proper home automation system. I use Vera a vera Lite

Then you can do so much more. For example I use this on my RGBW light strips.

As for the power yes as other have said you need to use the existing outlets to power a 12 volt power supply. I use these for that.

Now that you have the Zwave hub then you can start to automate many other lights in the house.

Check out r/homeautomation/ for more ideas

u/redroguetech · 4 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Hanging LEDs strings around the screened patio (using this). The plan is to use smart lighting controls with LED strips around the ceiling in every room, but the screened porch is the testbed. The one thing I'm not sure on is how to camouflage the strips. My idea is to paint them white. My concerns are that will be even worse on non-white walls, the light won't look right and/or the paint will cause them to over heat.

Also much gardening between rain and unpacking.

u/nasaldecongestant · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Not including the 3d printer or filament, or my soldering iron and other necessary tools:

LEDs: $12.57

Resistor 47ohm: $6.12

Diodes: $5.59

Gateron greens: 17@ $.90/per

u/saunjay1 · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

I don't know anything about the LIFX, but if you have (or plan on getting) a zwave controller, I'd go with the Fibaro LED Controller. With that, you could easily use any led strip you wanted.

u/AngularSpecter · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

It really depends on what your end goal is.

If you want to stick with Atmel, then buy an Arduino or Arduino clone. This will cost you ~$40 or so depending on which model you decide on. With an Arduino, you can use the Arduino libraries, or write low level code (I suggest at least trying low level code). If you decide you want to build projects with stand alone AVR's, then it will be a good idea to purchase a flash programmer as well ($10 to $20). The chips that come with an Arduino contain special code that lets you load new firmware over a serial link (called a bootloader). Raw chips lack this, so if you want to program a bare chip, you need the tool. You can even just use the tool to flash the arduino bootloader onto a bare chip.

If you aren't sold on Atmel, TI offers a very competitive option in the MSP430 Launchpad ($10). There is a port of the arduino code and IDE for this board (Energia), so you can still get the arduino experience if you wish. Otherwise, learning to program MSP430's at the low level really isn't that tough once you get a feel for it. Besides, the cost, a big advantage TI's offering has is that the dev board contains a built in programmer, which can be used on external chips. When you move to a stand alone chip in a project, you can program the bare chip by running 4 jumper wires from the dev board to the project....so there is no extra programmer to purchase. If you were to replace the ATTiny in the project with a MSP430G2210, you could accomplish the same thing and program it with the launchpad

Once you have a dev board, I would pick up a solderless breadboard and jumper wires (less than $10 on Amazon). Based on your project idea, I would also either buy a small resistor pack (~$10) and some LED's, or something like this. That would get you started towards building your project on a breadboard.

u/zarcha · 3 pointsr/Gameboy

The led/resistor (resistor is the only thing really needed) makes it think the top screen is connected.

LED is colored, i used these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077XBFZH9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

its fine, easier to ask sometimes.

u/CubsFan1060 · 2 pointsr/SmartThings

I just bought one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Fibaro-Micro-Controller-Z-wave-Strips/dp/B00P1N68FW

Really pleased with it so far.

u/danmikita · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Yessir! Chanzon 100 pcs 2x3x4 mm White LED Diode Lights (Square Rectangle Clear Transparent DC 3V 20mA) Lighting Bulb Lamps Electronics Components Light Emitt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C5HL0PO?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

u/PSw8WI9VDhy3 · 2 pointsr/gifs

I'm going to take a guess that these are way too expensive for what they are.

edit: That is a yes

[[](https://www.amazon.com/LEVILUNA-Magnetic-Levitating-Seamless-Decorative/dp/B077XMBK96)removed link this thread was made by spammers] 190 for the one on the left and 220 Dollaroos for the one on the right.

u/ylph · 2 pointsr/whatisthisthing

One exactly like yours (IR emitter or blaster, not sensor) used to come with old TiVo's - it allowed them to switch your cable box to a channel you wanted to record.

Example of a 2 headed one.

Here is how it was used.

It looks like these were also used by many different video recording devices, including VCRs and later DVRs for the same purpose (allowing it to emulate a remote control to switch your cable box to a specific channel)

Here is another similar one.

u/Supperslash · 2 pointsr/arduino

What led's are you wanting to use?
The fact is what you will need to do is find out how much power the led's will require to run each, than multiply that by how many led's you require. Example:
THEASE LED'S https://www.amazon.com/EDGELEC-200pcs-Emitting-Assorted-Resistors/dp/B077XBFZH9/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1541525214&sr=1-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=led&dpPl=1&dpID=51r07AcVK3L&ref=plSrch

Use 20ma each. So if you use 70 of them it will be 1400ma or 1.4 ampre just for the led's. The micro will require a quarter amp. And then you will need transistors to turn the led's on and off because the micro can not source them and lastly power limiteing resistor loss. So my best guess you will be looking at a 3 amp 5v power supply to run this project using the items I listed.
And YES you can wire the power supply in parallel so one plug can power the entire project.
You can look around and find better led's, or use less of them, etc. I just used this as an example. That's all. Hope this helps. Let me know if I can assist you any farther.
P.s. that math is if all the led's are on at the same time!

u/AlwaysSunnyInAustin · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

This is pretty much the best option for LED strips. You can set up 4 different sets from this one z-wave device.
https://www.amazon.com/Fibaro-Micro-Controller-Z-wave-Strips/dp/B00P1N68FW

u/zkoolkyle · 2 pointsr/ArduinoProjects

I used the OLED screen from amazon - Link to Product
But a lcd monitor should be even easier to hookup imo. You can same-day ship things from Amazon depending on where you live.

Can you upload a picture of your wiring? I'll take a look


u/AsleepOnTheTrain · 2 pointsr/xboxone

I had one IR emitter that didn't work, and then a different one did. I kind of thought they were universal, but maybe not?

Anyway, the one that worked for me was this one: http://amzn.com/B0054MAVXA

u/m_bishop · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

I went with this one. You can get them on AliExpress a little cheaper if you're willing to wait.


I'm using a fresnel lens to shorten the focal length to a something like 3", then a clear piece of acrylic as a prism to bounce the light into my eye.


I usually use actual microdisplays, but I've been wanting to make something for a friend. So, I started trying to figure out how to save money. I can get a cheap 18650 battery/charger for like $3 from China, then run it into a pi-zero, so another $10, and use this as a display. I think I can pull the whole thing off for around $30.

u/NooMoahk · 1 pointr/explainlikeimfive

first google result You'll also have to find a constant current laser diode driver, a module to mount the diode in which has a lens, and a heat sink to put the module on or in.

You can also get ready made modules like this But you would need to get a big heatsink for it. That tiny driver board might overheat as well so this probably isn't the ideal module for engraving. You'll want to end up with something like this. IF you want to make it yourself and need it to run constantly, I'd suggest drilling a hole in a computer CPU heartsink for the module.

You can find a lot more information about how to mount, drive, and assemble these things at LaserPointerForums and PhotonLexicon DIY sections. There is also /r/lasers Some of the message board members run web stores and sell all sorts of useful parts for this sort of thing, often made at home. The guy I used to buy from is closed now though. PhotonLexicon is mostly focused on laser shows, and LPF is more about laser pointers, but between the two you should be able to figure out what you need.

I believe the most common donor projector is a Casio m140, but it's been a long time since I've been messing with lasers and there may be better sources now.

u/CasualGamerDad · 1 pointr/discgolf

CR2032 Button Batteries and 3 LED Lights per battery taped on to the top/bottom of the discs with Packing Tape.

edit: See through discs work the best (Champion, Proton)

u/atomarlton · 1 pointr/homeautomation

What voltage do they need. 12 volt maybe 24 volt.

MY guess is you could hack in one of these

u/--bohica-- · 1 pointr/homeautomation

Qubino makes one, as well as Fibaro

u/Capt-Psykes · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

Nice, this should help me out quite a bit. I plan to pick up a Rpi along with a DHT11 temperature/humidity sensor soon enough so this should help me out quite a bit. I have a question though if anyone can shed some light on it, is this display! a good part to pick up with the Rpi? I plan on making it show the temp from the sensor every hour or so among other things.

u/BornOnFeb2nd · 1 pointr/homeautomation

Firago..Fibrago? Has a Zwave controller for RGB(W?)

Edit: Fibaro!

u/Vairminator · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

LED on the end looks like a standard LED. You can get packs cheap at Amazon, like this one, which comes with the resistors needed for voltage matching. If you want an assembly that is ready to go, you can try something like these, or these.

Edit: Learn to make something simpler and cheaper here.

u/joshiness · 1 pointr/homeautomation

I agree with everyone else, any speakers you want and connect it to the dot. what kind of light strip do you have? Or are you looking for one? Amazon has the Sylvania one on sale right now.

https://smile.amazon.com/SYLVANIA-ZigBee-Starter-SmartThings-Assistant/dp/B00R1PB80I?sa-no-redirect=1

Great thing is you can buy a cheap Chinese Led strip to extend it for cheap, just make sure it's a 5 pin strip.

If you are looking for a zwave controller I would go with the Fibraro micro controller:

https://smile.amazon.com/Fibaro-Micro-Controller-Z-wave-Strips/dp/B00P1N68FW?sa-no-redirect=1

Of course you would then need a hub. I personally use smartthings but if you are more technically inclined and want everything to stay local you can use it with HASS, you'll just need to pick up a zwave/zigbee stick.

u/BorrowerOfBooks · 1 pointr/DIY

Hi DIY!

I'm trying to assemble a list of products (via amazon prime for time and location reasons) to do a project with my partner on his birthday Sunday with a budget of $25-30. I think he'd get excited for (and I can manage!) LED paper circuits. Luckily we have a soldering iron and multimeter around the house. Here are the products I've whittled down to with no idea at all what I'm searching for except advice from tutorials:



Copper tape - Amazon link HERE


LEDs - Amazon link HERE


Batteries - Amazon link HERE


Do these choices look okay, and if not would you suggest any alternatives? Thanks so very very much for any help!

u/flootr · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Yep, I soldered the LEDs myself. I used the Chanzon Rectangular 2x3x4mm LEDs (recommended by I:C) here which are available from Amazon or AliExpress.

u/Invisibug · 1 pointr/battlestations
u/LiL_BrOwNiE247 · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

I actually haven't figured out which specific LEDs to get, I've only narrowed down which profile to get (went with 2x3x4 as they have more uniform lighting than 3 mm diamater ones). I'm open to any suggestions if you have any, otherwise I was going to get whatever's readily available like this.

u/AbundanceNaught · 1 pointr/homeautomation

I use one of these for the LED's behind my TV.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P1N68FW/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495035763&sr=sr-1&keywords=fibaro
connects to smart things, can be auotmated.
I haven't had the greatest success though in controlling it via voice (i use echo).
For some reason when i try to rename the device in smart things, it no longer connects.
However having it part of a 'routine' works very well.
Turn on/off at certain times or as part of a macro like "good night" or what not.

u/itsfaygopop · 1 pointr/SmartThings

I think he may be referring to this one... Fibaro RGBW Controller

u/MisterBiro · 1 pointr/kodi

Indeed I am.

The specific one I bought was this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M07K5QQ/

There's additional information on the Waveshare wiki here: http://www.waveshare.com/wiki/4inch_HDMI_LCD

If you go to the wiki and scroll down to the 'Driver Installation' section, you'll note the hdmi_cvt is set to 480 800. I didn't really think much of it at the time, as i assumed it was either a) a typo, b) you could initialise it as 800 480.

Unfortunately it's definitely portrait. If you attach it to anything else, it always starts in portrait mode and then you can use whatever you're running to rotate.

It is a massive shame that it doesn't work as you'd like. As it's an IPS display, the picture quality is simply excellent. It's crystal clear and vibrant. Unfortunately, it's also the wrong orientation...

I've replaced it was a 5 inch display and it's nice, but you can tell the panel is nowhere near as good. It just lacks the vibrancy.

Shame you can't have both really :-/

u/Melcoal · 1 pointr/homeautomation

PS: Do you have a link for the Fibaro dimmers? I'm looking but don't seem to see them, only a black box - no switch.

u/AndroidDev01 · 1 pointr/homeautomation

Sorry if there are formatting errors and such I am on mobile.


Basics

You should really consider a better HUB/products if you want this level of automation. You are going to want an offline hub such as Vera or Homeseer (what I use). Homeseer I know will interface with the echo Vera should. Hubs like wink/SmartThings end up not working when...

  1. Your router doesn't work
  2. Your ISP's connection drops
  3. Hub's service provider (AWS most likely) goes down
  4. Hub cloud service doesn't work or needs maintenance
  5. Random outages/problems

    Similarly, you should NOT get a nest (or EcoBee). I have a nest and while I love the design it is fickle. I would instead recommend a z-wave thermostat. With a z-wave thermostat you can do almost everything nest can (no auto scheduling). Already Purchased

     

    You should seriously consider a different HUB

    Dimmers and Wall Switches


    Here is a good place to start. Lutron dimmers are fantastics although they can be a bit pricy (I don't think you mentioned a budget...). Other options include the GE 12724 for dimming if you want to go z-wave over Lutron. And, the GE 12722 for regular on/off. Or Homeseer is releasing new switches soon that look fantastic (Also z-wave)!

    Here's some more info. 1 2 3 4

    Garage Opener


    Chamberlain is great!

    Security


    If you cannot change/return your system that fine but I would recommend a DSC power series system as they almost universally integrate with automation systems Homeseer has a plugin as does Vera.

    Audio


    Sonos is fine. It can be controlled via Homeseer/Vera (Think announcements). Or you can get an Echo Dot and connect it to the sonos connect via an audio cable. GET a WHA controller (Check the Outdoor speaker section for recommendations)

    Front Door Cam/Doorbell


    Either Doorbird a doorbell and camera (expensive) or a normal doorbell with an IP camera with motion record. The integrated solution is better but of course more expensive. If you end up with IP cameras you should consider Hikvison they seem to make the best cameras for the money.

    Outdoor Light

    Just install the smart switch of your choice.

    Fan's

    Not sure sorry. :-( GE has a fan controlling switch but I doubt it would work as you mention remotes...

    Under Cabinet Lighting

    Hue lightstips, Aeon lightstrips or a WIFI / Z-wave LED controller with regular strips. (Will edit later with links)

    Outdoor Speakers

    The Daytons are fine you could also go with Yamaha NS-AW150. For integration you could connect them to the MONOPRICE 6 Zone Controller and AMP. You could also connect the Sonos CONNECT to the monopice and have outdoor audio + sonos audio and send audio to any other zones you have!



     

    PM me or comment if you need any more info :-)

     

    *Will edit and add more info when I get to a keyboard.

u/Baxterftw · 1 pointr/lasers

>(I may get some basic online courses on electrical engineering or optical science if thats a good idea)

Electro-optics is literally my major so ask away


But 10W is insanely too much power for any application other than engraving or bring reckless.

For a first build i would recommend not going above 10-20mW because of how dangerous it gets. But you can buy lasers built into housings like this and use a lighter driver

u/kingviper · 1 pointr/led

Thank you so much! This is very useful information. My plan was to use one of the following 2 z-wave controllers, but whether I can use 1 or if I"ll need more will depend on the actual power requirements of these strips.
Fibaro
Qubino

I'm going to email the seller to see if they can clarify the power information.

edit: The seller responded and they said 85 watts is correct. Ultimately doesn't matter since I overlooked the fact that they are not outdoor rated! Any recommendation for quality affordable strip lights? I'm looking at something like this now.
LEDENET RGBW

u/stillborn86 · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

Well, breadboards run pretty cheap... And size matters here. Sometimes a smaller board is better, but a large board gives you more room to work with. So I'd recommend getting both! A small board will be nice for smaller projects, but larger boards will be nice for more in-depth prototyping that require more room to work with. And he can always use a small area of a large board when he doesn't need it all... but a large board won't fit into a small boat or airplane if that's what he is doing... So, at a good price, both can be beneficial.

Other than that, he'll need jumpers (male/female), and maybe a ribbon cable. Ribbon cables need a T-board (or equivalent) to connect to the breadboard with, but jumpers just plug into the GPIO pins. With a small breadboard, jumpers are favorable, as they only take up as much space as one pinhole, and they come in many different colors and lengths. A larger board can accommodate a ribbon cable and T-board more readily... a T-board can take up a LOT of space on a small breadboard REALLY quickly.

Word to the wise: if you buy a ribbon cable and T-board, you are going to want to know what type of Pi he has. The original versions had fewer GPIO pins than the B+ and the A+ versions. This means that a larger ribbon cable wouldn't work with the original Pi's. If he has an A or B, a 40 pin cable/T-board wouldn't work as they're designed for the newer B+ and A+. If you need help identifying which board he has, we can help you with a photo or a description of the board...

Also, a resistor kit and a capacitor kit would be good to have, if he doesn't already have them. Most projects require that you use resistors/capacitors somewhere, and the kits usually come with several of the most used resistors/capacitors, which should tie him over for some time.

Then you should get him an LED set. LEDs are nice because they can be used as a "proof of concept" tool. Since everything into and out of the Pi is digital, all you are doing is giving an item voltage. So it doesn't matter if you're using a buzzer, motor, servo, or LED... they will all work interchangeably. He can use an LED to prove that his code and wiring works when the light comes on... then, when it all works, he can swap the LED for a buzzer or something, and everything should still work, just with sound instead of light.

You could also buy him some sort of case, but these aren't always necessary. I don't use on on my Pi, and it works just fine... I just have to make sure I'm not shorting it on anything, or breaking it in some stupid way. These vary so much in design and price, I'll let you search for them instead of providing a link... just remember, like the ribbon cable, cases will obviously depend on the model he has.

Personally, I would stay away from potentiometers and photoresistors since the Pi only has digital inputs. Both of these items would need to be attached as analog items to work properly, and that means buying extra boards for correct functionality. The Raspberry Pi can not natively read analog inputs, so these items would only be frustrating to him since he can't use them without extra parts.

This should get him started in coding and prototyping. If he's looking for motors, servos, or speakers, you can get him those too, but they're not necessary to tinker with a Pi.

There are also kits that offer these items, but they're usually more expensive than they have to be, and they may or may not have everything you're looking for. Also, there are other places to shop for these types of things, but I use Amazon because it was the quickest and easiest place to search for examples of all of these things for this post. If you're smart with your shopping, you can get all of these items for ~$100, and might be able to have them shipped before Christmas... but you're going to have to hurry.

EDIT: Added links since you said you knew "nothing" about these items. This should make searching easier since you can actually see what I'm talking about...

u/siwel69 · 1 pointr/whatisthisthing

TiVo 2 Head IR Emitter / Blaster
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0054MAVXA

u/HungryShark49 · 1 pointr/RetroPie

Thank you! This will be a huge help!
I found this one on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CZL6QIQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PG6JDbFR0CHDB

However that board on the back of it adds too much length, if the board was the same size as the screen it would work perfectly. I'm having a rough time with this lol I've been searching for a solution for a while now. I've explored using the original screen but can't find any info on how to connect it to a Pi.

u/SarahC · 1 pointr/lasers

Amazon has a couple of sellers with modules cheaper than pointers....

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HFHPPQ0/ref=pe_385040_127541860_TE_3p_dp_1

u/sarcasm_is_free · 1 pointr/rccars

Amazon.

Edit: should also note, I have them powered through a 12v BEC from an old quadcopter pdb but any 12v buck converter will work

EDGELEC 200pcs 10 Colors x 20pcs 3mm LED Light Emitting Diode Assorted Kit 29mm Lead Clear Round Lamp White Red Blue Green Yellow Purple/UV Ultra Bright LEDs Bulb +300pcs Resistors For DC 6-12V Lights https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0785DLY5T/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_Nw1PDb57466VW

u/jgoergen82 · 1 pointr/DIY_tech

Ah, I've never worked with paper lanterns but I imagine they would be kind of a hassle for sure. That'd be a really cool idea just as outdoor lighting though! get a strip of "bullet lights" and run it along some space. hang the lanterns off the string of lights so the lights end up inside the lanterns. That'd be awesome looking at night! Hell, you could remove the lightning from my storm cloud and just run that across them, too.


For smaller clouds I've bought what look like tiny clear ketchup containers ( like this https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1wCL0JFXXXXawXFXXq6xXFXXXm/New-50pcs-x50-ml-Tip-cover-bottle-Soft-squeezable-bottle-Small-sample-bottles-Empty-bottles-Empty.jpg ) and shoved the microcontroller and a pre-made 8 neopixel strip ( https://www.amazon.com/Adafruit-NeoPixel-Arduino-Integrated-Drivers/dp/B00IEDH26K/ ) into it, then glued fluff around that. You could bang a cloud out in a half hour like that ( plus whatever time you put into the holder. )

Here's what I mean when I says "bullet lights" https://www.amazon.com/s?k=bullet+neopixels&ref=nb_sb_noss

u/vorin · 1 pointr/RASPBERRY_PI_PROJECTS

I've done some cli stuff in the past, but I'm pretty rusty on it.

The display is this one the same store sells a P4 one that has reviews of people getting it to work with the adafruit hat. The rest of my setup is a pi zero w 1.1 with a soldered header (possible failure here, although I'm pretty confident in my soldering), adafruit rgb matrix bonnet, and usb hub


I'll probably start from scratch with an adafruit tutorial to at least get the display working. Some of my problems could be from my raspbian installation. The first issue I ran into was with the micro sd card I was using, so I initially installed raspbian full from NOOBS.

I'll feel better once I get the panel to display anything at all.

u/remembertosmilebot · 1 pointr/SmartThings

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

https://smile.amazon.com/Fibaro-Micro-Controller-Z-wave-Strips/dp/B00P1N68FW/ref=sr_1_1

---

Never forget to smile again | ^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

u/blahlicus · 1 pointr/Blahlicus

Hey, thanks for asking the question, for your information, base model Diverge TM 2s do not have LEDs, when purchasing a Diverge TM 2, there is an option to add LEDs but it costs extra.

I believe that you are part of the group of people that got upgraded from Diverge TM 1 orders to Diverge TM 2 right? In this case, your order was upgraded to the Diverge TM 2 without LEDs. (I think that is fair, the base model Diverge TM 2 already costs more for me to manufacture than the Diverge TM 1 and should cost extra but the upgrade was free)

For your information, if you wish to add your own LEDs at a later date, then you could look for "2x3x4 box type" LEDs, and "0805 resistors" or "1/8w resistors" for what you need.

Below is an example shopping list of stuff from amazon to get white backlights set up:

u/Go3Team · 1 pointr/rva

I'm using cheap LED strips off of Amazon.

I have one strip controlled by a Fibaro RGBW controller.

The others are controlled by Raspberry Pis, with custom scripts to handle fades, strobes, etc.

They are very bright when it's dark out. We could see them very clearly from about 2/10ths of a mile away. I have one setting that looks like strobes from a police car. I haven't tested that one outside yet though. The plan is to use it if someone comes around licking door handles.

The picture I posted is from the blue being set at 100%.

Oh, and a video of police mode inside.

u/silverbluephoenix · 1 pointr/olkb

I bought the greeen lens colored ones here https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C5HL0PO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_uGOUzb3PT6PTV The green colored lens is rated 2.3 V and the clear one is rated 3.1 V so i ordered the clear one, and waiting for them.

The green lenses looked really pretty with kaihua golds, but the light was so faint, that yau couldnt see the green at all with the keycaps. I tried with a couple other leds (white, orange, blue lens) that i have of the same brand and they shine just ok.

u/Beer_Is_So_Awesome · 1 pointr/diyaudio

You're asking a lot here. If it was simply Bluetooth/Aux, I'd suggest that you gut the head unit, stuff one of these in there, and solder leads from the forward/back/play/pause switches on the amplifier to the 1 2 3 4 5 presets on the head unit.

You could try running the speaker outputs from the amp board, through the volume pot of the head-unit faceplate and then from there to the separate amplifier, which should give you analog audio control from the original volume knob. Presumably the external amplifier would have connectors for a sub.

This would give you Aux-in and BT sources, volume control, and control of your BT source from the faceplate, but not AM/FM radio or an EQ. There are third-party DSPs that you can use to tweak the audio, which I can't tell you much about because I'm not a car audio guy.

My inclination is to tell you to lower your expectations and just design it around BT and Aux, but that's not what DIYers want to hear. You might be able to incorporate all of this stuff by learning all about Arduino, and linking together a bunch of modules, and writing your own software. If you did that you could even fit a new OLED display into the faceplate and program yourself a totally custom readout! None of this hardware is expensive-- most Arduino modules are available shipped from China for a few dollars apiece, but you're going to have to learn a LOT if you're not already familiar with programming and basic electronic principles.

Good luck!

u/ErasmuzRyan · 1 pointr/homeautomation

I use a Fibaro RGBW microcontroller to control mine (under cabinets). It can be added to a simple momentary switch in the wall as well so you get the benefit of controlling it via a wall switch, and/or through your home automation system (it's a z-wave device so it works with both devices you named). The micro controller is a bit more expensive, but then you can spend a lot less on the actual RGBW strips.

https://www.amazon.com/Fibaro-Micro-Controller-Z-wave-Strips/dp/B00P1N68FW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479334032&sr=8-1&keywords=zwave+rgbw

u/sanels · 1 pointr/arduino

Honestly, i don't like it. Here's why: all you customize is bunch of leds, you can just buy a goody bag(http://www.amazon.com/microtivity-IL188-Assorted-Resistors-Colors/dp/B0060FGA8A/ (comes with tons of resistors, more than you need) from amazon and that makes your entire thing pointless. Also it's damned pricey.

If you included a real selection list of things like different sensors(acceleromters, gyros, magnetometers, preassure, level, light, sound), different actuators(motors, servos, etc..), assortment of indicators(led, ir, 7 segment, led matrix/grid, lcd screen), shields(usb host, xbee, motor drive, relay), ic packets(regulators, logic gates, op amps, shift registers, etc...) and stuff like that at reasonable prices then I could see it being something great, but otherwise i just think it's pointless.

u/Linguist208 · 1 pointr/whatisthisthing

Yep, a TiVo IR Blaster transmitter (this link goes to the one you have; the one in the FAT is a different style)

u/Imonfiyah · 1 pointr/Multicopter

Do you have any documentation on how to program your LED.

Here is the part for the lazy

u/ginSeven · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

Why just not go for OLED displays ?

u/Mr-Midget · 1 pointr/arduino

Turning the TV on/off is always a fun one, even better because it only needs an IR LED.
You can probably put together your own beginners kit after browsing amazon and proto-pic, rather than buying a pre-made one.
It will be cheaper, and have all kinds of cool stuff the kits don't e.g. This ultrasound distance measurer which only costs £1.10
Or an LCD Display for £1.70.

It will take longer to work out, but you'll understand it better and it's much cheaper. Depends how much you value time vs. money.

Or you can pick up something like the Sainsmart kit's on amazon that are basically just big bundles of components much cheaper than official kits.
They don't come with tutorials, but you can find everything you need online and the basic getting started tutorials are on the arduino website. After that googling the component or asking around here is pretty much all you need.

Got to go now but message me if you want advice on anything and have fun, it's a great hobby :D

u/830hobbes · 1 pointr/batteries

That depends on the LED, the battery and the circuit. Let's say you get a low current LED (20 mA - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00UWBJM0Q) and an average 1632 battery (130 mAh - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00102JQIE). That's drawing 20 mA from a 130 mA-hour battery so you just divide. You'll get about 6.5 hours of light from it though probably a bit less since you'll want to size your resistor to allow a bit extra current for a brighter light. You would do better getting a 2032 battery - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DORK4NE. It's only a little thicker and would give you 225 mAh.

Edit: just realized you posted a link to a product. I have no idea how long that would last but i would guess 6 hours would be an upper limit.

u/Loitering-inc · 1 pointr/EliteDangerous

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0761LV1SD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can find them other places a little cheaper, but delivery is usually drop shipped from China so it takes longer.

u/M-0-P · 1 pointr/olkb

I used these LEDs:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0785DLY5T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

I then wired the long wire to a pin in the Teensy. he short wire I soldered to a resistor. The resisters were all soldered to 1 wire than ran to the GND pin on the teensy. Here is my LED code:

​


void matrix_init_user(void) {
DDRD |= (1 << PD7); //init D7 (Blue)
PORTD &= ~(1<<PD7); //turn off D7
DDRB |= (1 << PB5); //init B5 (Red)
PORTB &= ~(1<<PB1); //turn off B5
DDRB |= (1 << PB6); //init B6 (Green)
PORTB &= ~(1<<PB6); //turnoff B6
DDRD |= (1 << PD5); //init D5 (Yellow Green)
PORTD &= ~(1<<PD5); //turn off D5
DDRC |= (1 << PC7); //init C7 (Yellow)
PORTC &= ~(1<<PC7); //turnoff C7
}

uint32_t layer_state_set_user(uint32_t state)
{

// if on layer _NAS, turn on D7 LED, otherwise off.
if (biton32(state) == _NAS || biton32(state) ==_NS2) {
PORTD |= (1<<PD7);
} else {
PORTD &= ~(1<<PD7);
}


// if on layer _ACT, turn on B5 LED, otherwise off.
if (biton32(state) == _ACT) {
PORTB |= (1<<PB5);
} else {
PORTB &= ~(1<<PB5);
}

// if on layer _NUM, turn on B5 LED, otherwise off.
if (biton32(state) == _GUI) {
PORTB |= (1<<PB6);
} else {
PORTB &= ~(1<<PB6);
}


return state;
}

//Lock Key Functionality

void BeginLock(void)
{
lock_active = true;
lock_searching = true;
PORTD |= (1<<PD5);
}

void LockKey(uint16_t keycode)
{
locked_key = keycode;
register_code(keycode);
lock_searching = false;
PORTD &= ~(1<<PD5);
PORTC |= (1 << PC7);
}
void EndLock(uint16_t keycode)
{
lock_active = false;
unregister_code(keycode);
locked_key = 0;
PORTD &= ~(1<<PD5);
PORTC &= ~(1<<PD7);
}

bool process_record_user(uint16_t keycode, keyrecord_t *record)
{
uprintf("KL: kc: %u, col: %u, row: %u, pressed: %u\n", keycode, record->event.key.col, record->event.key.row, record->event.pressed);
if(keycode == KEY_LCK) // lock key is pressed.
{
if(record->event.pressed == 1) //Do nothing special on key down
{
return true;
}
else //On key up, toggle on/off
{
if(lock_active == true) //If lock is active then turn off
{
EndLock(locked_key);
return false;
}
else //if lock off, turn on
{
BeginLock();
return false;
}
}
}
else if(lock_active == true) //Lock is active, need to execute steps that don't involve lock key
{
if(lock_searching == true && keycode <0xFF && record->event.pressed == 0 )
//Lock key pressed, which turned on search. Key needs to be valid. On key up, set as locked key
{
LockKey(keycode);

return false;
}
else if (lock_searching == false && keycode == locked_key) //if the key has already been set, ignore the button press
{
return false;
}
//if searching is false or its a quantum key, then continie on.
//if the locked key has already been set, a normal button push will add to the effect
else
{
return true;
}
}
else //Non-lock related keypresses
{
return true;
}
}

u/PicoReef · 1 pointr/PicoReef

I've decided to mod the stock LED light that comes with the Fluval Spec V. I know I'm going to need to upgrade to something with more power eventually, but in the meantime I wanted to do some experimenting. I ordered a color assortment of 5mm LED's from amazon for like $2 and I plan on replacing some of the daylight white LED's with a mixture of blue and Violet. I want to see if a low light coral can live under the stock light with this mod. I'm hoping that the blue and violet LED's will provide a better spectrum of light for the coral to photosynthesize even if the wattage output is crap. I believe these 5mm LED's are .07 watts each. There are 37 LED's total -27 on the daylight switch and 10 on the moonlight switch. I'm interested to see what combination will look best. I think I will start with 12 White, 8 blue, 7 violet. Or maybe 14W, 7B, 6V. I will be adding pictures of the process and final result as soon as the LED's arrive.

TL;DR I thought it would be interesting to see what effect I can produce with the stock light with some cheap LED's and a test of my soldering skills before I decide to buy a retrofit kit with 3 watt LED's that cost $70+

u/VSDeggy · 1 pointr/Nerf

Just find a nice supplier of LED bulbs, resistors, and battery cases. My cases came from RadioShack and were about $1.50 each, and you can get a bulk pack of 80 LEDs and resistors off Amazon for $9. There are very few blasters that can't fit an LED into their front ends somewhere, and as long as there's enough space in the blaster for your batteries, the wiring real estate is almost negligible.

Of course, it requires a lot less tinkering if you can tear down an existing flashlight and fit it in the case, but where's the fun in that? :P

Edit: Also, that Rayven is beautiful. I need to get myself a Rayven.

u/technologiq · 1 pointr/homeautomation

Hallelujah - I'm stoked on that RGBW light controller. Wish it was cheaper than that but that controller + 32 feet of light strip is still cheaper than 6ft of Phillips FOH strip.

Edit: I ordered a RGBW controller - I'll update when I receive/install it. (Wed 19th)

Edit 2: I don't like that your charge more for Amazon :( I understand it costs you more but I still don't like it.

u/Mords35 · 1 pointr/led

ok, I've switched plans to solder an entire system using these LEDs of lower voltage. Now I only ask, will two 1.2 AA batteries be enough to power them and do I need resistors?

u/Smokey347 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Also not OP, but these are ones that I got that will work with click bar switches. But like /u/angelartech said, they must be as flush as possible to the PCB for them to work.

u/jds013 · 1 pointr/homeautomation

Other Z-Wave LED strip controllers include Fibaro Qubino RGBGenie.

I didn't realize the Hue line included LED strips. I apologize for any confusion.