(Part 2) Best padlocks & hasps according to redditors

You two should try Masterlock 141D's. They're practically everywhere, easy to pick, and give great feedback when setting the pins.

​

Link to Amazon's 141D listing for reference.

Place a simple lock on your bedroom door for now.

Definitely talk to your parents. You've already tried to reason with your roommate and she won't do anything.

Definitely make an effort to get a new roommate. One that will understand personal space and boundaries.

It's a lock box to store a spare key for the car.

Like this kind of thing: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HR01VJA/ref=psdcmw_511382_t3_B0002YP1VC

I use one of these if I really need to make sure I'm not unplugged, or if I'm using my own EVSE in public. I'm not sure if all EVSE handles have the little hole under the button you need, however. But it'd be a huge dick move to lock the cable to your car at a public station if you're not going to be back to the car as soon as it's done charging.

Why not just leave a note next time saying "ok to unplug after xx:xx"? Or if you're going to go with a combo lock you could also leave a note so someone could contact you and you could provide the combo if you're away.

The American lock is going to be the Gary to your Ash for a while. You will need a decent amount of practice before you can tackle it but here's the secrets to opening one for the day you're ready:

• You want top of the keyway tension. Preferably with a prybar (best ones here and here). The amount of pressure you'll be putting on the wrench will barely put a dent on the skin of your finger.
  
  
• When you pick, your goal will NOT be setting one stack at a time. Your goal will instead be looking for feedback. This might sound confusing, but the American lock has security pins on the top ("driver" pins) and security pins on the bottom ("key" pins). If your goal is to set a stack, then you will very likely overset it and bind on the keypin.
  
  
• When looking for feedback, gently run your pick across the stacks. If you feel the tension wrench vibrate while scraping in a certain area, the binding driver pin is caught between the plug and the housing (Diagram here).
  
  
• GENTLY lift. Pins in the American lock are nasty. You want enough pressure to only get ONE click. Once you get that click, keep moving and keep looking for feedback. Internally, it should look like this. Notice how he's not looking to raise each stack to the shear line, instead, he's searching for feedback every time he gets a click.
  
  
• Be confident. That lock is just pieces of metal. You just gotta move some pieces out of the way to open it up, and that's it. You'll pop that American lock in no time after some practice!
  
  If you want a good list of locks to lead you progressively up to the 1100, here's my list:
  
  
• Master No. 3 (or Chinese variant). Walmart usually has these. Generally 4 pins.
  
  
• Master 150: 2-3 spools, just to get a feel for them. 5 pins.
  
  
• Master 570: No spring tension on the core, get your introduction to "top of the keyway" (TOK) tension here.
  
  
• Abus 72/40 or variant. You want something with 6 pins and at least 4 spools. This will teach you the importance of dealing with restricted keyways. You may need a slimline pick in 0.015". I personally use the Euro hook from Sparrows. Alternatively, SouthOrd has a Slimline set of picks for this occasion. Peterson too.
  
  
• Master 410 Lock-Out-Tag-Out ("LOTO"): No spring tension on core, 5 pins, and a mix of serrated and spools. What their typical pins look like here.
  
  
• Master 6835: Same guts as above, but with heavy spring tension. This will teach you to test vary your tension as you pick.
  
  Now you should be ready to kick that American 1105's ass!

I'd turn around and walk out.

I keep very little of my gear in my locker, I keep all my guitars and main amps at either my folk's house or the studio. But I keep my tech. cases, boats, a few amps, and now, almost everything I own from my apt.

I can't tell you how many guys/bands I know/see that store their stuff in 24 hour access, and put a fucking Master lock on it, thinking because they got the one with the yellow rubber coating that it's a tough lock. Then they're surprised when they go to get their gear for their next show, and their locker's been emptied. (And guess what? It happened 10 minutes after they loaded it in there.)

I also can't tell you how many times I've told smaller acts pulling a trailer to spend sixty bucks on a better lock, back it against a wall, and pull the coil wire.

I get an indoor locker and put this on it. They'd have to tear the door off to get in there, unless they've got a few hours to try to work it.

I use toolboxes to store my collection for similar privacy purposes. This is my current toolbox and these are the locks I use on it. If you need a slightly smaller and cheaper box I would also recommend this toolbox and this lock as I had used them in the past. Best of luck!

https://www.amazon.com/ABUS-83CS-55-300-1-4375-Inch-Zero-Bitted/dp/B009S5Y69E/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542566151&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=abus+83cs&dpPl=1&dpID=41-ZU7wirTL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/American-Lock-A5300D-Steel-Padlock/dp/B0013GBQVM/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1542566304&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=a5300d&dpPl=1&dpID=41H%2B3A1dyJL&ref=plSrch

The Abus is the better lock but I would recommend having it set to a key (its zero bitted which means it opens with an uncut blank) but that could add $10-$20). Some locksmiths will rekey for free if you buy through them though.

You can get a dozen 72/40s for 44$ And repin the hell out of them. https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Safety-Padlock-Orange-Keyed/dp/B01N2U5VDS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=abus+72%2F40+12&qid=1568399917&s=hi&sr=1-3

The Abus has a tight keyway, just FYI.

The 1100 American is an awesome lock. you can pull all the pins out and get some great practice.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HR01VJA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_nGO0Bb61DW0MR

In that case, the padlock is not strong enough for storing valuable items like the laptop or camera. Those wheely deals are not secure at all. One of these would be much better.

> I am telling you NOT all combinations of text are possible through automation of ANY kind including brute force random number generation

All combinations up to any finite length. Per wc -c, the Project Gutenberg works of Shakespeare file I downloaded is 5,589,887 characters long. So let's take a nice round six million as a target length.

Now consider a combination lock like this one, with four dials on the bottom. Since every dial can take one of 10 values (digits 0-9), four dials gives us 10^4, or 10,000, possibilities. Yes, random sampling, given enough time, would saturate that set of possibilities. The probability of any given one of those 10,000 options being chosen is 1/10,000. An infinitely long process just randomly choosing settings will open the lock eventually. We don't need random sampling to get any number, rather any number in a finite set of possibilities.

Now mentally consider a lock whose dials also have letters and punctuation, plus a space. There are 95 printable ASCII characters, and we chose a target length of six million characters. So there are 95^6,000,000 possible printable ASCII files 10^6 characters long. A big number, sure, so the probability of any specific outcome is 1 over that number, just as before. A small probability for each number, but still non-zero. Any non-zero probability converges to a probability of one as the number of tries converges towards infinity.

Consider too the ordering. Any ordering of his works would still be his works, just in a different order. Per Wikipedia's page,

>>His extant works, including collaborations, consist of approximately 39 plays, 154 sonnets, two long narrative poems

39+154+2 is 195, and there are 195! ways (the factorial of 195) ways of ordering 195 works. That's a pretty big number, 2.59 x 10^363. So that many of the 95^6,000,000 possible 6-million-long-character ASCII files would still constitute being "the works of Shakespeare."

I'd recommend reading The Library of Babel, in this collection or this one by Borges for a great literary exploration of this idea. For a more rigorous approach to the mathematical ideas Borges explored, I'd recommend the fascinating book The Unimaginable Mathematics of Borges' Library of Babel.

You could also just use a cheap lock and a latch guard

Or a padlock hasp with either bolts or security screws.

Then there's only minimal drilling encase the landlord won't approve of drilling a huge hole in the door for a deadbolt.

Depends where you are but Amazon has it pretty cheap :) https://www.amazon.com/Government-Safety-Lockout-Padlock-Zenex/dp/B001HWD3Q8/

​

Hunting on eBay sometimes proves effective too for a couple at the same time to make them even cheaper

This lock is a cheap masterlock but suprisingly well made core. It is 6 pins full of security pins. It was difficult to pick but for $8 it was very good.

I didn't take it apart but it seemed spool heavy but if feel like there are some serrated pins. I'm relatively new to lock picking myself.

If you wanted to take the plastic shell apart I am sure you could play with the pinning and use a vice grip to pick it.


Master Lock 410GRN Green 410 Zenex Safety Padlock with Short Body, 1/4" x 1-1/2" Shackle (Pack of 1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001HWD3Q8/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_GuTnybCX0JS8V

I bought a $5 lock and it is much sturdier than the one in the video

https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-Padlock-Aluminum-141D/dp/B00004Y8C6/ref=sr_1_5?s=hardware&ie=UTF8&qid=1520903501&sr=1-5&keywords=lock

tough one, I just tried it with a very small travel lock (similar to this) and it didn't fit through the opening on the metal part of the zipper pull. Putting it through the paracord would be pretty pointless. I think the only thing you could fit through the zipper pulls would be a cable lock. Better than nothing, I suppose, but not very safe..

American Lock padlocks are generally very good for the price.

Abloy has some cheaper offerings that would work great too.

https://www.amazon.com/Abloy-PL330-50-High-Profile/dp/B01MSM987E/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1518063391&sr=8-7&keywords=abloy

https://www.amazon.com/American-Lock-A5300D-Steel-Padlock/dp/B0013GBQVM/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1518063421&sr=1-6&keywords=american+lock

Abus locks are the way to go. 30 bucks or so is what I have found some good ones. I can sometimes rake American locks, and picking them is way easier than abus locks. The master lock you have can be jiggled open practically, or a little poky can be inserted in the third spinner and it will open, or you can use a probe and feel when they are in place.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009S5Y69E/

If this fits it is what I would suggest. But they have cheaper ones. It shows the size specs on the pics I think.

My buddy uses one of these
It has a little more room in it than some of the other solutions I've seen on here, and it seems to be fairly robust.

Not OP, but a fellow XR owner. My solution was to hide away a kill switch. This combined with a cable and lock, and have never had a problem in the City. You can probably go without lock and chain in a small town, but I don't want someone picking up my bike and tossing it in their truck. Better safe than sorry

Here's a link to a bunch of 72/40s if you're looking to practice the same lock with the same bitting. It can help you learn how two identical models can have different binding order.

ABUS 72/40 Aluminum Safety Padlock Orange Keyed Alike - Long Shackle (1-1/2") - 12 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N2U5VDS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qcKTDbWSB1D0K

Sorry to hear about the theft. You probably don't want to deal with the hassle of selling the van, so here's what you should do, if you still plan to gig with the van:

• Get a locking metal bulkhead
  
• secure the side and rear doors with a Hidden shackle hasp and padlock
  
  You're looking at about $350 in parts, but you can probably install these yourself. Better to drop a few hundred now to save several grand later.

For the Abus 64TI/50, I use the Peterson .040 pry bar and Peterson hook 1 in .018. Once you've picked it a few times and know the binding order, the lock becomes pretty easy to pick consistently.

The Master Lock 570 is a challenging lock due to the dead core. I recommend working your way up to this lock. The Master Lock 140, Brinks 40mm (non-brass), and Abus 55/40. For these locks I use Sparrows' BOK tension and Peterson hook 1 in .025.

Once you've got these down, you can step up to the Paclock 90A, Master Lock 410, and American 1100. For these locks I'll use the previously mentioned Peterson hook 1 in .018, Peterson hook 7 in .018, the previously mentioned Peterson .040 pry bar, and the Peterson .050 pry bar.

Good luck!

Looks to be a clasp with a missing arm. I would remove it and replace it with something like this.

Not sure why your post got downvoted (hopefully that will be corrected as more people see your post), but welcome to the community! Those were great locks to start with. Just the right amount of challenge.

If you're looking for ideas where to go next, I'd suggest looking at the lock list that will be posted by a bot in a reply to this message when I suggest you take a stab! at some more difficult locks, and see if any look good. There is also the belt ranking list which is far mor comprehensive.

I particularly enjoyed the Abus 55/40 which is a good tick up in difficulty from the locks you've been opening but will still be within your abilities. You can find it on Amazon for about $6 or $7, with free shipping if you have Prime.

This hooked to the cross bar

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C2B243G

You can use a regular student permit ($178?) for both your motorcycle and car. UTAPS sells a "permit holder" (a plastic thing) for about $10. When I ride my motorbike, I lock the permit holder to my bike. I used to use an over-sized pad lock, but last semester I saw people using cable locks which is a MUCH better solution (link below). When I drive my car, I put the permit holder in the lower right corner of my windshield.

https://www.amazon.com/Masterlock-Cable-Lock-Keyed-Diff/dp/B0002IN1PQ/ref=zg_bs_517822_9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=3K0JB1CXPXH0DBH4DXK3

If all you have is a motorcycle permit, you will need to pay for the daily parking permit.

whoops, 3.60 each but still. I assume you bought 3 12 lock keyed alike lots? https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Safety-Padlock-Orange-Keyed/dp/B01N2U5VDS/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=abus+72%2F40&qid=1565666042&s=gateway&sr=8-9

Here is that exact lock but green.. it's $ 0.56 cheaper than the red one. Or if you don't care about prime you can get it for $7.90 and save $1.09 per lock, compared to the red colored ones

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B001HWD3Q8/ref=dp_olp_new_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=new

Kind of you, but i just got one for an all time low price on amazon.
American Lock A1106RED1KEY Padlock Keyed, Aluminum, Red https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015MG048E/

Here is everything I have

STR8 Brand 8" Weather Resistant, Smellproof, Lockable, Glass Protector, Outdoor Carrying Case for Multi-Purpose with Pre Cut Grid Configuration Foam - STR8BRAND (NITRO GREEN) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0719WWYGL?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Master Lock Padlock, Set Your Own Combination Lock Luggage Lock, 13/16 in. Wide, 646T (Pack of 2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004Y8DQ?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Herb Lab Smell Proof Container - the Stash Box - Airtight/Discreet/Lockable Security Lid - Odor Lock System keeps your Smoking Accessories Hidden and Secure when Traveling. Mini Stash Case Included! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071HWCV7Q?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I got the second box for my vape pens and tinctures so wouldn’t have to open my green box with the weed inside the house. My wife is not a big fan of weed smell.

I was thinking the same, but hey here is a cheaper idea for you (another i considered) - 12 cylinders shipped $44 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N2U5VDS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ovzDDb3YAYPH1

You will have a bunch of lock bodies as leftovers..

case + locks = locking case

Maybe an ammo can? There are holes on both sides for locks; apparently these fit according to a guy in the Q&A section. Keep in mind that the two-pack is considered an add-on item, meaning you'll need a total purchase of $25 to actually buy it.

Personally, I just use this as it's more convenient and fits my stuff just fine.

Here is the mobile version of your link

Something like this TSA Luggage Locks (2 Pack) - 4 Digit Combination Steel Padlocks - Approved Travel Lock for Suitcases & Baggage - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0114C1TM0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_k.KXAb4AFSJVC

These have a spinning drill plate that prevent drilling very well. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001V5IYW4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3dp7Cb51WXGPP

You could use a combination cam lock like this

Combi-Cam 7850R-L Combination Cam Lock, 1-1/8 Chrome Finish https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000W7DBWA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1ExcBbHJB04SK

Amazon has the set of 2 for $8.

http://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-120T-Padlocks-4-inch/dp/B00004Y8D0?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01

I rarely lock up my whole backpack but almost always lock my passport, backup credit card, and any other valuables. Yeah, lockers do vary so I tend to carry two sizes: a standard school-locker type and a smaller option. I tend to use the smaller one more frequently as it can also be used to lock the zipper on my backpack during bus journeys or in the absence of a locker.

​

As others have said though, the lock is really just a deterrent and won't stop anyone who is really determined to get into your stuff, but it's about the least you can do regarding security so it's worth it. Typically hostel thefts are crimes of opportunity and most would-be thieves are just going to look for an easy target.

I'll second mgsecure's advice here. Repinning is definitely the way to go if you want to be cost effective. If you picked up a reload kit and a cheap rim cylinder you would be set. Sparrows also has a fantastic selection of cool security pins.

It is definitely a hassle having to repin the same cylinder over and over, so if you are willing to $39, Sparrows also sells the Revolver. Combined with the specialty security pins from Sparrows, it is a fantastic investment that can get you well into Blue Belt territory. It is a single physical lock that contains 4 separate six-pin cores that can all be repinned exceptionally easily using set screws. So it is basically 4 separate locks in the palm of your hand.

The one draw back is that it is definitely not as satisfying as the feel of a padlock clicking open. For that, you might want to checkout some of the $9 American 1100s on amazon, and visit a local locksmith to see if you can scrounge up some extra pins so you can do your own repinning.

As far as the lock goes, I recommend this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005UM98YM/ref=mp_s_a_1_27?qid=1373583570&sr=8-27&pi=AC_SX112_SY192

I first picked a Master Lock #3 Link and this Link. The second one is neet for learning as it has a big key way and only 4 pins. You can single pin pick it or rake the shit out of it. I got them both from target.

This one works great for quick transfers outside a house or warehouse ;)
https://www.amazon.com/WordLock-KS-052-BK-Stor-More-Storage-Black/dp/B00C2B243G

Can even set the combo to "pill" or "drug" lol

I spent $6 on a cable lock or gun lock. I rest the chin of the helmet on my passenger peg and loop the lock through the cracked visor and around the passenger rearset (anything metal will work).

This isn't foolproof, but its much better than simply attaching your helmet to the bike via the strap. I'm sure a decent pair of bolt cutters could snip right through this cable, but it gives some peace of mind when I am only going somewhere for a short period of time. If I am away from the bike for more than a couple hours I usually just bring my helmet with me.

On the return policy - you're right, they allow for return if there's a defect... there's absolutely no satisfaction guarantee though.

The lock they include is this: https://www.amazon.com/Combi-Cam-7850R-L-Combination-Chrome-Finish/dp/B000W7DBWA/ just in black. Is yours different? That little metal tab is meant to keep your desk drawer locked - not something I'd use for this type of application.

The boxes that are chained to your seat frame are like $30-$50. For $270, I'd expect better. As for how long I leave it unlocked - sometimes the whole time I'm in the car? Since it took up my whole console, sometimes I'd leave it unlocked to get to paperwork or while there's no firearm inside.

The fact that it's designed to fit and installs in minutes was the big appeal to me - and that's worth a lot. I installed it in like 5 minutes. That said, my current vehicle doesn't have an application specific box and has a huge console, so I think it's going to get this one on one side of the inside of the console with a custom bracket to affix it to the same bolts that hold the console in place: https://www.amazon.com/Fort-Knox-Personal-Handgun-Pistol/dp/B015D82XAS

This?

http://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-3BLU-Lockout-Padlock/dp/B0010E70XK

Master Locks with the blue band are extremely easy to pick. I would highly recommend them for beginning lock-pickers. You can basically rake the pins with any hook and it'll pop open.

...they're only like $15 on amazon

If you're worried about theft, I suggest the bungee to the back seat, plus a cable gun lock (padlock with a long flexible loop).
Any sporting goods/firearm shop should have, here's an amazon one: https://www.amazon.ca/MasterLock-Keyed-Difference-Cable-Lock/dp/B0002IN1PQ/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1462913102&sr=8-5&keywords=cable+lock

Is this what you are looking for?

is it this thing?:

https://www.amazon.ca/Brinks-172-44831-Security-Shrouded-Padlock/dp/B00C5TEAF0

I have to assume the cost of a set of Best locks can be offset either by getting a bulk/commercial account deal of some kind, or simply through the interchangeability of the cores meaning the maintenance costs offset very quickly compared to having to fully replace entire less expensive locks to replace a key.

But if you only need one padlock for normal security usage, it can be kinda hard to justify costs like that. The larger all-steel American padlocks tend to be very good value, but I feel like I should give a shout-out to the A5360 it's slightly pricier but has a fully shrouded shackle, something I consider a very valuable security feature.

Also, the Abus Rock is a comparably priced and very similar padlock with a slightly better core in it.

Not sure what you’re searching for but this is the first one that comes up when I search.

Link

Total $19.37 USD

I really like the Stanley locks personally. They are rekeyable, bit an arm and a leg, and really nice. I own three of them. (2 60mm padlocks and a 50mm with shackle guard). The 50mm is under 16.00 even. Here are the three I have purchased that I am really happy with:

50mm w/ shackle guard

60mm w/ shackle guard

60mm fat padlock

That being said, if it is a storage unit that is enclosed, I would have no problem using a normal Chateaux discus lock. I use the Chateaux C970 discus lock, but now that I have found the 50mm stanley with shackle guard I am going to start using them since they are actually a little cheaper than the Chateaux and gives me the option to key it any way I like (thanks to the removable cylinder).

HTH

That was the first set I bought too. The rake and large Z tension wrench are actually decent. I broke the rake... but I still use the tension wrench often even after buying high quality sets from Peterson and Sparrows.

Might I recommend a few lower end, rakeable and single pin pickable padlocks to start off with (that clear cutaway lock is by far the easiest lock to pick I've ever picked):

Masterlock 3

Masterlock 140D

Abus 55/40

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004Y8D0/

If you're paranoid, toss one lock in the trash every month. At less than $2 per lock (4pack), that's not bad. And these are solid.

Unfortunately I don't think that there's another solution that would produce an acceptable result. Personally I'd measure the thickness of the door and shop for a new lock to suit.
Here we go, from Amazon:

Cam Lock

Available sizes For Material Thickness:
5/8" cylinders fit up to 3/8" material
7/8" cylinders fit up to 5/8" material
1-1/8" cylinders fit up to 7/8" material
1-3/8" cylinders fit up to 1-1/8" material

Also I'd suggest a set of These which make measuring things like this really easy and they are cheap!

A hasp like this, with mushroom head bolts: https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-770-Shackle-Padlock/dp/B000LEHEO0/ref=pd_bxgy_60_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000LEHEO0&pd_rd_r=CCEKJCJHY6E74P6NK45W&pd_rd_w=2WW1V&pd_rd_wg=ay2AK&psc=1&refRID=CCEKJCJHY6E74P6NK45W

And a lock like this, with a hidden shackle: https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-6270KA-Shackle-Padlock/dp/B000Z36T6Q/ref=pd_bxgy_60_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000Z36T6Q&pd_rd_r=YF1D8DVQSVWKKG88XYC5&pd_rd_w=1AxA3&pd_rd_wg=gvAMO&psc=1&refRID=YF1D8DVQSVWKKG88XYC5

Will give you the best security, as it's not possible to just cut off the lock. And if you use bolts with a square body, they will mate to the square holes in the hasp so someone couldn't just cut a slot into the bolt heads and twist them out.

Thanks!

Just to confirm, something like this?

http://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-3BLU-Lockout-Padlock/dp/B0010E70XK/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Z36T6Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_rIbMAbBENJKNF

The description and general appearance looks like they stuck their 410 core in something useful. Can't confirm, don't own one.

I got one of those they are great. You can just put extra long screws and some kind of spacer to get them out farther. (I used small plastic pipe as the spacer)

Also I got these https://www.amazon.ca/Combi-Cam-7850R-L-Combination-Chrome-Finish/dp/B000W7DBWA

Just make sure you buy the right sized one. Much easier than only one set of keys.

It's not perfect but it will keep the rif Raf out.

A full enclosed rack is better if you can do it of course

Buy this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HR01VJA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ST7ODbFP2V4BT leave it somewhere hidden your relative can find and give them the code

Pretty simple really! I went the affordable route after getting tired of seeing $80 shovel mounts on Amazon. I spent around $20 bucks in total for the mount. Here's another photo with a different angle.

I just went down to my local Home Depot and bought some conduit hangers. 2" hangers for my Thule MOAB IIRC. I sprayed them black to blend in a bit better since they come in silver.

Then I attached these rubber tool clamps to the conduit hangers using 1" #10 screws and washers.

So I wouldn't mess up the basket, I used some leftover rubber hose from my AOS install to act as a padding between the conduit hangers and basket.

I opted for a small cable lock to keep it from being stolen/tampered with.

I went with the Bully Tools 92510 12-Gauge Round Point Shovel Fiberglass D-Grip Handle because of it's sturdy construction. This thing is crazy strong.

Alright, I don't know what conditions or environments the lock is gonna be in, but here's my two suggestions.
The American is a bit harder to pick, but slightly less physically strong as it lacks the shackle guard. It is however made out of solid steel.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001V5IYW4/?coliid=I2W5VXJN39AN2D&colid=10884BQRHBHB8&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

https://www.amazon.com/American-Lock-A5200D-Solid-Padlock/dp/B009YO0CF6/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=american+5200&qid=1551362477&s=hi&sr=1-2

This a good one?

https://www.amazon.com/WordLock-KS-052-BK-Stor-More-Storage-Black/dp/B00C2B243G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497062913&sr=8-1&keywords=word+lock+box

What are you thoughts on this one?

https://www.amazon.com/American-Lock-A5300D-Steel-Padlock/dp/B0013GBQVM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1497784496&sr=8-4&keywords=American+Locks

That's a practical opinion though. There are so many different lock types out there, so there's no reason not to branch out. My googlefu seems to not be working well right now, did you mean the 172?

Edit: Here is what I'm finding, but it's the 172.
https://www.amazon.com/Brinks-172-44831-Security-Shrouded-Padlock/dp/B00C5TEAF0

There's no way someone is going to take the time to cut a metal lock off of a zipper? If they are that skilled to cut a metal lock they must need my stuff more than I do

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00004Y8DQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1496419412&sr=8-13&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=luggage+lock

Something around 10-20$ would be good. I am just really paranoid because someone broke into my locker once and when try to do research for locks, there were only guides to cracking them.

I decided to buy this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004SQLH/ref=ox_ya_oh_product

Something like this would work.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000Z36T6Q/ref=redir_mdp_mobile