Best paint finishes according to redditors
We found 24 Reddit comments discussing the best paint finishes. We ranked the 18 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 24 Reddit comments discussing the best paint finishes. We ranked the 18 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Apparently, they sell this shit as well:
https://www.amazon.com/Handpainted-Cool-Motorcycle-Colorful-Decoration/dp/B00WUEXYWA/ref=sr_1_18?srs=3022170011&ie=UTF8&qid=1480913635&sr=8-18
I love charcoal but it takes a bit to understand how to utilize it correctly. In my opinion though, it goes so much faster than full pencil drawings and it gets much more impressive and dramatic results.
One of the easiest techniques is to actually work 'backwards' from a traditional graphite drawing. You may want to pick up some 'Vine' / 'Willow' Charcoal sticks These are very soft but lightly toned pieces of charcoal. You'll scrub one over the entire piece of paper and use a tissue to smooth it resulting in a gray toned background. Here you won't be starting with a pure white sheet of paper.
From there you'll make a gesture drawing of what you'd like to draw with a lighter charcoal pencil (2H or the gray pencil farthest to the right in your drawing tin). After, you'll go in with an eraser and erase out the light areas to almost bring back the white of your paper (those pink rectangle erasers you use/used in school are great for this). After that, you can actually dive in and start shading. You'll start by shading with your lightest charcoal pencils and work your way up to the darkest shades (in your tin work right to left with the gray pencils) Your lightest highlights you can achieve by using a piece of chalk or a white charcoal pencil These will be the absolute lightest parts of the image, so don't go overboard.
From there, just darken and lighten areas until you're satisfied with it.
Some stuff you might want to pick up =
Workable Fixatif - This will help keep the mess to a minimum. You'd spray this after every day that you work on the drawing. (But don't spray it until you've erased out all of the highlight areas!) As the name suggests, it is workable so you can still erase out some of it, but it won't be as forgiving.
Final Fixative
This is the stuff you spray on the final drawing. You're done and you don't want to change anything anymore. You can also use really cheap aerosol hairspray if you want to save money or you don't need a UV-safe protective coating. I've used this in the past - Horrible Hairspray-Great cheap Fixative
Those brown colored pencils and sticks are Conte crayon. They're very similar to charcoal but are made from clay usually. (These are awesome for doing gesture drawings or faces!) I work with these more similar to a graphite pencil rather than charcoal. You can also buy brown toned paper/newsprint to use with them.
Also, I want to add, be careful when you sharpen any of these pencils. Go slowly and be soft with them or you can crack the charcoal inside and it'll just fall out. I've found these work better than other pencil sharpeners when it comes to charcoal. You can also simply scrape the pencil end with an Exacto blade - I've never broken a pencil doing it this way.
Fixative info & Tutorial
Very Basic Charcoal Tutorial - this gives a visual of what I was talking about. The guy does everything in a different order than I usually do, but whatever you find works easiest, just go with that.
More Tutorials Several other tutorials to help you get started.
Sorry for the wall of text, but I hope you enjoy the new media! Give your mom a big hug! Charcoal is great!
Not OP but it looks a lot like the Bianyo set I got a while back.
epoxy: https://www.amazon.com/Crystal-Clear-Table-Coating-Tabletop/dp/B07DP6KBSB/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542822740&sr=8-3&keywords=epoxy
Dye: https://www.amazon.com/VARIETY-variety-pigment-Diamond-Pigments/dp/B01HNE78KK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542822751&sr=8-3&keywords=epoxy+pigment
Bob Ross teaches wet on wet oil painting, so thick oil paints are necessary to paint like Bob does. This will give you an idea of how expensive the paints can be, so yes, they're pretty expensive. However, buying larger tubes of paint will get you much more paint for your dollar, and may also be able to find cheaper paint if you don't buy Bob Ross brand paint.
The wood handles look great.
Might I suggest using Rub n Buff for the silver accents (See the link to Amazon below). I saw Adam Savage use it to great effect on a gun build recently and appears to do a great job (I also included the link to the video for "Tested" that Adam made).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cwOXSXkW-uE
https://www.amazon.com/Buff-Metallic-Finishes-Color-Sampler/dp/B003DKZE5A\
Added: Aw poop. Someone already suggest this. Well, at least you can see it used to great effect in Adam's video. :-)
thank you so much! I plan on doing more of these, much larger! I used this pocket watercolor set from jerry q
edit: link
One of the things I'd say is that to get real nice effects that look good in person, it pays to use different media, not just colors of paint. I like Rub n' Buff paste for metal, as you can apply it very very lightly on prominent edges with a dry brush and gradually build up the wear, and you can buff it to a high metallic sheen.
For gunmetal or carbon build-up, graphite powder is excellent, although it never dries, since it's already dry, and isn't great for handling. A little spray fix is good for that.
An overall wash with very thinned acryllics, which you then wipe off, gives good overall staining, then some pastel powder of various earth tones in a couple spots, especially on the feet.
Overall, don't just slap stuff everywhere. The key to it looking right is to do techniques where they'd show up in real life. More intense "dirt" washing at the bottom. Bare metal on salient edges and moving edges. "Oil" near mechanical parts, etc.
This looks exquisite! I'm not sure the pastels someone else recommended are the right option here, in my experience it gives more of a mud effect.
Check out Sophisticated Finishes rust finish, it actually oxidizes the surfacer so you get real rust
https://www.amazon.com/Triangle-Coatings-Sophisticated-Antiquing-antiquing/dp/B004BNDH0M
Oooh this is a fun game:
https://www.amazon.com/MEEDEN-Empty-Watercolor-Palette-Paint/dp/B01MRYR1VI/ref=sr_1_40?ie=UTF8&qid=1526303405&sr=8-40&keywords=watercolor
https://www.amazon.com/Winsor-Newton-Cotman-Water-Studio/dp/B000XYHYI4/ref=sr_1_43?ie=UTF8&qid=1526303405&sr=8-43&keywords=watercolor
https://www.amazon.com/Field-Artist-Watercolor-Journal-Hardbound/dp/B075ZN6XT3/ref=sr_1_66_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1526303688&sr=8-66-spons&keywords=watercolor&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Artify-Watercolor-Miniature-Carrying-Flannelette/dp/B078SQT3NW/ref=sr_1_72?ie=UTF8&qid=1526303688&sr=8-72&keywords=watercolor
https://www.amazon.com/Daniel-Smith-285610005-Essentials-Introductory/dp/B00WT5VRF6/ref=sr_1_94?ie=UTF8&qid=1526303776&sr=8-94&keywords=watercolor
https://www.amazon.com/Moleskine-Watercolor-Album-Sketchbook-Spanish/dp/8883705629/ref=sr_1_107?ie=UTF8&qid=1526303816&sr=8-107&keywords=watercolor
https://www.amazon.com/Paint-Brush-Brushes-Watercolor-Painting/dp/B00ZO90S1I/ref=sr_1_114_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1526303816&sr=8-114-spons&keywords=watercolor&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Watercolor-Block-Cold-Press-X12/dp/B0007XDHGO/ref=sr_1_115?ie=UTF8&qid=1526303859&sr=8-115&keywords=watercolor
https://www.amazon.com/Dr-Ph-Martins-400262-XXX-Watercolor/dp/B005TFSDF0/ref=sr_1_147?ie=UTF8&qid=1526304003&sr=8-147&keywords=watercolor
sorry for stupid long links
Buy Golden Acrylics Extra Heavy Body Gel. It's insanely good, dries with way more clarity than other brands (won't affect dried color it does affect the color of the wet paint unfortunately) and it's thick like room temp butter.
Hey thanks! Acrylics are so different. You might try getting a gel medium that makes the paint thicker and more textured. The one I use is Golden Acrylics Extra Heavy Body Gel. Another thing to try would be to use different tools than paint brushes. Each tool gives different textures, and my favorite is a palette knife. I've resorted to kitchen spatulas, sponges, finger painting, etc. to get the right texture!
What you need is called stain glass paint, look it up on Amazon or any art supply store. I would look for one that stays translucent, so acrylic paints are not recommended. The ones that work are solvent based. This set kit is lacquer based or you may search for individual colors:
https://smile.amazon.com/Permanent-Lacquer-1-5-ounce-Professional-Stained/dp/B018C2MFNC/ref=sr_1_1?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1504552651&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=stain+glass+paint&psc=1
I used actual watercolors to highlight the different days of the week.. I used Jerry Q ART https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M3YU1L7/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073P2V8M9/ref=sspa_mw_detail_0?psc=1
is this the same or is the koi brand better / well known?
thanks!
The pain is the least concern for watercolor. Paper is most important, then brushes, then paint. But if you need a new paint set:
https://www.amazon.com/MeiLiang-Watercolor-Perfect-Students-Beginners/dp/B07FYG3BBV/ref=sr_1_10?crid=2R72SJ0Z81C08&keywords=watercolor+set+professional&qid=1571087386&s=arts-crafts&sprefix=watercolor+set%2Carts-crafts%2C146&sr=1-10
Apparently this set is a rebranded Paul Rubens (professional) watercolor set. The frugal crafter Lindsay Werich reviewed it on YT.
You could also get the Van Gogh Pocket box. I started out with this one and still use it. Colors are pigmented, rewet easily, and it's not very expensive. It's similar to the cotman, both are very good.
Don't forget, the paper is key. Get good paper. Preferrably 100% cotton. And get a decent brush, not the $5 pack from the craft store. Hobby Lobby has some decent ones in the golden taklon series. But you can order a nice Escoda brush for like $10. IMO a #10 versatil or #12 perla will do almost everything you need.
Hmm. Well, for the hat, I can't seem to find any type of hat that matches it :/ It seems like a really exaggerated version of some kind of archer's hat.. google searching has gotten me an English Archer's Hat, and it's also kinda like an exaggerated Robin Hood hat. I've only made one hat in my life so I can't really help out there too much :p
As for the sword, I've made some dark souls weapons before, but they were all bigger more ridiculous ones. I'm not sure how I'd go about making something that was more like a normal claymore-ish style.. My first thought is to try making it with wood. That seems like the easiest way to make a good looking prop. As long as you sand or plane the wood down to where it's nice and smooth, and get a good coating of paint on it. I'm no expert on making nice blade effects, but I like to use rub n buff or something similar to make some edge effects.
Hope this was slightly helpful and good luck!
[Water colors](http://www.Jerry.com/ Q Art 24 Assorted Water Colors Travel Pocket Set- Free Refillable Water Brush With Sponge - Easy to Blend Colors - Built in Palette - Perfect For Painting On The Go JQ-124 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M3YU1L7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-omYCbHYG9S90) and [Sips .38 pens.](http://www.iBayam.com/ Fineliner Pens, 24 Colors Fine Tip Colored Writing Drawing Markers Pens Fine Line Point Marker Pen Set for Journaling Planner Note Calendar Coloring Office School Supplies Art Projects https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072V6N5S5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rqmYCb5GCPAPS)
I use the pens to outline my entire pencil drawing and then water color over top. The pens are water soluble, so if I want to hide my map I can blend it with my brush srokes and go more gently where I would like that line work map to show through.
https://www.amazon.ca/Plaid-Ceramcoat-Select-Multi-Surface-Seafoam/dp/B018HBAA0S/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1492895780&sr=8-18&keywords=SeafoAm+paint
https://www.amazon.ca/1994-Ford-All-Other-Models/dp/B00J55BBRC/ref=sr_1_46?ie=UTF8&qid=1492895866&sr=8-46&keywords=SeafoAm+paint
I’ve definitely gotten a few ‘use more water comments’ haha. I think they’re called Phoenix watercolors (here ). Thanks for all your advice! I just bought a pad of watercolor paper :)
There is something called rub n buff that prop makers use all the time.
Adam Savage uses it all the time
https://www.amazon.ca/Buff-Metallic-Finishes-Color-Sampler/dp/B003DKZE5A
I know I'm kind of late to the party, but "rub'n buff" can be really pretty in the letters: https://www.amazon.com/AMACO-Metallic-Finish-0-5-Fluid-Ounce/dp/B00081HYDC For outdoor use it may need a spar varnish or something over it, I'm not sure.