Best painting & art supplies according to redditors

We found 3,907 Reddit comments discussing the best painting & art supplies. We ranked the 1,713 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Artists boards & canvas
Art drawing supplies
Arts & crafts easels
Artist painting supplies
Brush & pen cleaners
Art paper

Top Reddit comments about Painting, Drawing & Art Supplies:

u/Swayz3Train · 318 pointsr/AccidentalRenaissance

You wanna be the best fiance ever u/vickicamfield?

Get him one of these.

His neck will thank you, his hands will thank you, his precision will thank you. Probably the best purchase I've ever made for minis. You can snag em at most hobby shops.


Bonus, if he wants to do detail work I recommend a cheap set of reading glasses. He won't have to strain his eyes as much and they are a nice magnifying you get the point lol.


PS: I recommend bright white light for better color recognition and more akin to natural light.

Edit: Also if he is thinning with water, get this. I find it works better than water and mixes with metallics!

Edit 2: For brush care, dont forget to get some brush cleaner and conditioner. Maybe a wet palette for longer paint sessions. For brushes, winsor and newton are always a solid choice.

Edit 3: Folks are asking for essentials. Here is a short list:Vallejo thinner
Masters brush conditioner
Wet palette
Kolinsky brushes
Mini holder
Liquid cement for plastics
Vallejo paints
Citadel paints
Warhammer TV
Cheap airbrush for prime/basecoat

u/batmanbuff · 29 pointsr/Warhammer40k

Excellent choices but you forgot two necessities that no one ever seems to cover when they recommend upgrading to quality brushes. Especially ones as expensive as Newtons, which can run in the $40 dollar range for the larger sizes.

[Brush Shaper] (

This will save you a lot of money and headache in the future and keep your brush tips nice and sharp. I often see people complain about bristle quality and return their brushes because they weren't educated on proper brush care technique or the existence of this product. To give you an idea I have some old Davinci brushes I bought when I first started the hobby 15 years ago and they hold their points like new. Hell even cheapo brushes become actual workman's tools when you use this stuff.

Brush Soap

-Masters: if you prefer solid bar type soap. One of these will last you for a decade if you keep the lid tight and the soap moist.


-[Pink Soap] ( If you prefer liquid.

Remember these are art brushes designed to be handled by an experienced artist with a light touch. Their intended use isn't mini painting which can be quite brutal on brush fibers. Miniature hobbyists and modelers aren't, in general, what I would call trained painters (no shade thrown) so using them as a resource in handling artists tools can be a bit limiting or downright pricey. As such I recommend it to anyone to watch this brush care vid by someone who uses the products I linked to maintain his gear. Proper brush care will save you a ton of money over time allowing you to spend that saved cash on new minis rather than on replacing your tools.

u/clearingpuppy · 24 pointsr/JUSTNOMIL

Make it Noodler's bulletproof.

Once this touches fabric it is never. Ever. Coming out. Not even with bleach. If you want something ruined forever, this will more than do the trick.

u/stmstr · 17 pointsr/Warhammer40k

This is the brush soap that everybody recommends.

Make sure you don't get paint in the ferrule (the metal bit where the bristles meet the brush). Paint will dry there and cause the splaying. Frequently rinse off the brush in a cup of water while you're painting.

u/foh242 · 15 pointsr/Warhammer

You sure do, I posted a product below. You can get it in most hobby stores and all art supply stores. Little bit of water and move the brush around in the soap work out all the crap. If you take care of your "nice new sable brushes" they will take care of you :)

u/CornflakeJustice · 14 pointsr/Warhammer

Also not the original commenter, but I just bought an airbrush a few months ago and did a (read way too much) research into it. u/darcybono has pretty excellent advice on the Badger Patriot 105, it's a great brush.

This is a copy/paste from a conversation I had awhile back where someone asked about them like a month after I had started using mine. The sotar refers to the Sotar 20/20 the brush I wound up getting. I find the cone is a little smaller than I'd like, but haven't gotten a medium tip yet so I know it can go bigger.


>Amazon was fine for the sotar and this was the compressor I got.
>I also grabbed this cleaning kit but I don't use the upper brush holder because it doesn't fit the sotar. I actually 3d printed a stand for mine.
>You'll also want Vallejo airbrush thinner, iwata airbrush cleaner, and I recommend distilled water.
>If you haven't swapped your paints to dropper bottles I heavily recommend doing so. The GW pots really suck for it, though you can mitigate that some by using pipettes. Just make sure to get an agitator that isn't reactive like, I use hematite beads.
>Let me know if you have any other questions!

It's super fab, the compressor is quiet enough that I can use it when the house is asleep (I'm in a basement office of a two story home) I've used it a bunch for priming and have a couple projects I'm working toward where I'll be using it for base coating. I got one of the Munitorum Cargo Crate boxes and after testing basecoating on them I'll be moving to using the brush to basecoat my marines and such.

u/El_Dubious_Mung · 13 pointsr/minipainting

This stuff might save it. Also good to have regardless, keeps the bristles perfectly clean.

u/The_edref · 13 pointsr/UniUK

Speakers will make your life so much better. I'd recommend getting a shower speaker too, your flatmates will love you.

A door stop is the right answer.

If you get a memory foam mattress topper your life will be so much better. It makes any bed amazing, and, although they aren't particularly cheap, they can last a very long time. I have this one

Get some good quality pens and books of paper. You don't want the refil pads as they always fall apart sooner or later, get some which have metal binding on one side. For pens I always got a box of these or these. They make the vast amounts of notes you need to take much better.

Don't buy the recommended reading until you have checked how many copies the library has. There's a good chance you'll be able to read them enough without paying for them, or search Bookname.pdf into google and it will probably be there.

Pint glasses are very useful things to have, but I found it added a nice touch to my flat if they were all borrowed from pubs.

get a multipack of playing cards on the cheap from amazon. You'll probably get through a fair few packs in first year. Some poker chips were a nice thing to own as well. In 3rd year I got Cards Against humanity as well, and it is a very good game for predrinks

Get minimum 1 good frying pan, 1 good saucepan, a good wooden chopping board, a good chefs knife, a baking sheet, and a colander.

Get a bottle opener like this one and you will have hours of fun pinging the caps at people

I didn't use mine much in 1st year, but all the other years of uni my bike was a great thing to have. It allows you to shop further away (so cheaper) and reduces your reliance on public transport. It also means you can get out of your area of the city occasionally, which is nice.

A french press means you can make a whole pot of great coffee for your flatmates when you are all getting up after a heavy night, at which point they might crown you or start worshiping you or some shit

u/meatbeater · 13 pointsr/Warhammer

As a fellow Tau player I just have to correct something, they arent robots. Theres little fish face alien fuckers in those suits.
Yes they are fantastically awesome !
If you hit your local shop on weekends you will very likely find people who will be incredibly nice to you and will be very happy to help you learn to paint. This is usually a great bunch of fanboys and we love talking to newbies :) My son will talk for hours on how awesome orks are and his buddie will tell me how amazing Chaos is. I play Tau, Space Marines, Eldar & Necrons. oh i'm 47 so the habit will last your lifetime.
As for what equipment, I suggest an exacto knife for removing tiny bits of plastic. A task light with a magnifying glass is awesome. A good set of brushes & an Army painter kit. Links are below. Paint scheme... dude they are all awesome. What do YOU want ? Dont go crazy at first. start simple, 3 colors and basic bases. As you get better you can add details. Please post photos of your progress and never be afraid to ask questions
For the greater good !

Light -

Paint -

Brushes -

u/thvbh · 11 pointsr/Warhammer

Kolinsky round brushes #1-3, maybe #0 and #4; these are the mini painter's tool of choice and he will always need them because they wear out. Series 7, Raphael, da Vinci, Roubloff are all world-class brands. Look to pay around $8-18 per brush (not sure what country you are in). If he doesn't have any already get him a puck of Master's brush soap to go along, because proper care will preserve his tools for months and years depending on frequency of use. You will look savvy as fuck too.

u/DisciplesOfAres · 11 pointsr/Warhammer40k

Definitely the Masters Brush Cleaner/Preserver. Most commonly recommended stuff out there. I've been using this for a good amount of painting the last 4 months and have hardly made a dent in the amount I have. 100% worth it.

Edit: It also smells like lemons and happiness.

u/kyriose · 10 pointsr/minipainting

My recommended buying list for a new painter is:


  • Nippers
  • Hobby Knife
  • Thinning Medium
  • Glue
  • Glue Accelerant
  • Brush Cleaner
  • Palette


  • Primer
    ○ Grey is standard, white if you're painting a majority of light colors, and black if the majority is dark.
  • Matte Varnish


  • Brushes
    ○ Round 0
    ○ Round 1
    ○ Round 2

    All in all it should be around $60 USD for the tools and about $40 USD for the brushes. However, this list gives you every tool you will need to get started and to continue with the hobby.

    This is just what I like to have on hand, this does not reflect the "perfect list". I hope it helps :)
u/Cyntax3rr0r · 10 pointsr/minipainting

Paint has gotten into the ferrule, or base of the bristles. Try to avoid getting paint that high up. Leaving the brush submerged in the water pot can cause this too. Also, cleaning your brushes once done is paramount. Most folks here swear by General Pencil's Master Brush Cleaner. This will clean and condition your brushes, to keep their fine point.

u/ScarletVillain · 10 pointsr/funny

They have a nice zen version called a Buddha Board. It comes in different sizes.

u/CinnaVanilla · 10 pointsr/bulletjournal

It’s called a waterbrush pen. It looks like OP used one from this set: Pentel Arts Aquash Water Brush Assorted Tips, Pack of 3

Edit: typo.

u/ARbldr · 9 pointsr/fountainpens

Some quick questions, do you write really small now?

Most of the engineers I know do write small, which is why I ask. /u/the_illest does this joke you see here every time this question is asked, but it is a good recommendation to start. I personally recommend the Pilot Metropolitan over the Lamy Safari, I think it is a nicer pen to use, and the I believe the nib is better. If you write fine, you might be better off going to Goulet and getting the new model in fine, than buying the medium nib on Amazon. If you write really small, I really like the Metropolitan with the nib from the Pilot penmanship swapped onto it. The link here is more than I spent on the penmanship, if you search you can find them cheaper (I think on Amazon sometimes, I got two for that price). The Japanese EF nib is closer to a western UEF nib (the medium on the Metro is very close to an EF on the Safari). The line is very thin, and comfortable if you are used to writing small with a mechanical pencil.

With this, pick up a bottle of Noodler's black , and you will be set.

Now, to deviate a little from the standard answers. If you want something a little different, the Nemosine Singularity is an good intro pen that has gotten a lot of good feedback.

For a cheaper alternative, but usually only in a medium nib, the Jinhao x750 or x450 are big pens that make a statement (Amazon has sellers that ship these from China, Goulet pens carries them for $10 in stock).

There are a few others on Amazon that people like in the starting range, Parker, Scheaffer, etc that some like, but generally, the popular ones are the Metropolitan and Safari.

u/santafemax · 9 pointsr/Warhammer40k

FIRST, Read this guide (It should answer most questions)

Then, My intro recommendations: (I've included Amazon links, but you can likely find better prices elsewhere)

Badger Krome (a solid intro airbrush)

Compressor (make sure it has a moisture trap and hose or purchase these seperately)

Respirator (a must have for safety):

Cleaning pot (pipe cleaners optional)

Other things you will probably want

  • Airbrush medium for thinning paints
  • A spray booth
  • pipettes for transfering and mixing
  • wash bottles for cleaning
  • airbrush cleaner (I use windshield fluid)
u/efuller5525 · 9 pointsr/Warhammer40k

First comment:

Please upvote this by default so it stays towards the top. I'm still learning how2reddit

So I am NOT an artistic person so this is especially anxious for me. But, I needed something to keep my hands busy that wasn't masturbating, so here we are.

I have probably over studied techniques and materials, and I want this post to be a "documentary" if you will. Where someone who has no business painting is going to be doing just that.

So, I'll be documenting my pitfalls and approaches to everything here. With all of you lovely people, it'll also hopefully be a central location for someone like me or just wants to get into 40k can refer to.

Disclaimer: I'll be at work until 5pm EST. But my job is pretty cushy so I'll be adding planning details throughout the day

Tools and Such

Well, I probably overspent here. Only because I'm lazy and didn't want to make the drive to harbor freights. But then again, paying the premium to help support my local game shop is going to give me some karma in the long run. Here's the list of things that I ended up picking up:

  • Wire Cutters
    • The game shop charged me $16 for them lmao. I hate myself. But they're used to cut the pieces out of the sprues. I was using a box cutter at first, and in no time I nicked myself pretty badly. Just buy them. Again, Harbor Freights.
  • Box Cutter / Exacto Knife
    • I used it to trim off the excess from the sprues. The box cutter worked, but the exacto knife was a bit better because of the handle and the gradual width in the blade helps with control when you need it, or the finer point when you need to get into smaller areas.
  • Paint Brushes
    • So, I spent a lot on one pair and then minimal on another. The A Lot pair was from the game stop ($16 for three types), I figured these would be much higher quality when dealing with the tiny pieces. I went to walmart and bought a set of 8 as well for $5. I'm intending to use these on things like terrain because they're larger in size and hiding issues from crappy brushes is going to be easier on terrain than it will be on a mini the size of 6 quarters.
  • Filing tools
    • Honestly I'm not sure why these are needed. I thought it'd help get rid of the excess sprue on the models but it leaves a scratchy texture. I'm pissed about that. Unless someone here will tell me otherwise, just use your exacto knife
    • If you're just starting out, DO NOT GO BUY THEM INDIVIDUALLY. Its too expensive. My local shop sells them for nearly $5-$8 a bottle. Buy THIS. Its a ton of typical colors and drops the individual price down to $2.80.
    • Paint sets are always going to be your best friend, from what I've found. Citadel paints for example are really expensive at my local shop (like $5-$7 each expensive) But something like this is a huge savor., bringing the unit price down to $3,63.
    • Shading seems to overhaul the look into something more professional, so you will want to buy two separately. My buddy suggested two different ones, Black and Brown.
  • Wet Pallette
    • I am yet to have this conversation without the other person talking to me like they're running for president. Wet Pallettes are a necessity. They ensure you do not waste paint, keeps your paint consistently viable while using it, and helps with storing it. I've heard a couple of days, others say months. Who knows. I'm yet to start painting, but I'm just going to say don't even mess around and just get/build one.
    • Tabletop Minions has a great video to show you how to make one for the lo-lo.
  • Mini Painting Holder
    • If you're not looking risk smudging the paint when you're holding your mini, then this is for you. Bonus points for reducing your chances of arthritis.
    • You COULD get something like THIS. But I feel that because it holds onto the sides, you can't really use it to paint the base.
    • What I ended up doing was buying 3 bottles of champagne, cutting off the top of one of them, and then gluing & duct taping it all together. I haven't tested out its balance yet but odds are, I'm going to have to do something so its stable and I can rest it on the table standing up without worry. Bonus, I was pretty drunk for a bit.

      Theory is Great and All (11.13.19)

      So here are my updates from actually painting.

  • Mini Painting Holder
    • LOL. Welp. didn't turn out as expected. Glue didn't stick and I had to use so much duct tape that it looks like a toxic sushi roll. Yum. We'll see how it works when I get to the actually mini painting.
  • Paaaaaint
    • Welp. I'm pretty sure I added too much water. I also definitely did not mix enough of it. I'm going for a deep green metallic look and only mixed enough for one coat..... lmao. Thankfully its just the 1st so I'm hoping when I mix a boatload of it, even if the hue is different, it won't matter much.
    • Wet pallete: Definitely worked out. Do it.
    • Because of the paint being too watery, you can see some spots where it pooled. Again, gonna take it easier on the water the second time around and hope it covers up the bad stuff
    • In being careful with the finer details, I didn't care too much. Some paint here and there won't change much and should be unnoticeable after a few more careful coats of the actual color I want to use, when I get there.

      Life Sucks and I haven't gotten much done (11/15/19)

      So I was only able to apply a second coat of to what I've already done. But honestly, not too shabby! Apparently I didn't water down the paint too much.

      Also, I recently switched to a different cell phone carrier, and got a $200 prepaid card.... So I'm getting these.

      There's a blog that I found (will have to find it again later) that recommended these.

u/routesaroundit · 8 pointsr/Tyranids

> Is there any reason to take Hormagaunts over Genestealers?

When having more bodies on the table and tying up enemy units in melee is a greater consideration than just killing units outright.

This is a rare situation lol. Killing is good. But there are some fringe cases... for example, you're playing Hive Fleet Behemoth rules and you want to use their unique stratagem (Brute Force, which basically has a 16% chance to deal a mortal wound for each friendly model that makes it into close combat) and you need to bring down something with a strong invul save (so like... Mortarian, or Guilliman, or somebody) and your only option is to drown it in low quality bodies.

In those cases it might be more useful to just have a fucking gargantuan amount of Hormagaunts.

But in 99% of situations, Genestealer spam is superior, for the points.

> I'd like to use florescent dye on my 'nids, so they glow-in-the-dark. Is this viable; If so, how would I go about it (mix the dye with the paint? Apply it as a gloss?); & what should I use to do so, specifically?

I haven't messed with this myself but I would assume if it is of a compatible material it should be mixable. Is the dye acrylic? Most miniature paints are acrylic.

> * Any painting/modelling tips you could give me would be greatly appreciated.

Make a wet palette, learn the difference between priming/basing/layering/washing/highlighting/drybrushing, get a drybrush, get a base coating brush, get a fine detail brush.... then once you figure out what you're doing and you're ready to REALLY detail some fine detail, graduate to a Windsor & Newton Series 7 sable hair detail brush... sable hair is so much better at holding a fine point and stays moist longer.

Also, invest in a tub of brush cleaner:

It's cheap and lasts forever, just get your brush wet, brush it back and forth on the top of the block o' soap, get the soap all massaged into the bristles, and rinse with room temp water. Repeat until the bristles are nice and silky smooth.

Never get paint in the ferrule (the part where the bristles join with the rest of the brush). Never get any sort of chemicals in there either, like isopropyl alcohol or even soap if you can manage. Cheaper brushes use weak glues and soap could dissolve them - probably not an issue on a Windsor & Newton brush, but you don't want to take the risk. Just be in the habit of only immersing brushes in things-other-than-water up to the ferrule, never past it.

Water in the ferrule is fine and should not be a problem. Always rinse your brushes when you're finished painting for the day, dried paint will fuck your brushes up over time.

Decide on a paint scheme and then paint your SMALL models first! Do all your learning on the little dudes that nobody is looking at on the table lol. Then once you've built your skill up, do the big impressive looking monsters. When you have 30 Hormagaunts all climbing over each other to get to the enemy, they can look like absolute shit individually but as a horde they look awesome as long as you have them all painted identically. The uniformity is what makes them pop. But when you have one single monster by itself, people look very closely at that and technique is more important.

Paint your swarms in batches. Prime all 30 Hormagaunts. Wait till the next day. Base coat all 30 Hormagaunts. Wait a day. Layer the Hormagaunts' carapace. Etc. Do one step for 30 models, not 30 steps for one model. This prevents a lot of logistical bullshit like running out of space on your wet palette.

Most importantly, make "om nom nom nom" noises when finishing off enemy units.

u/pxpxpx · 8 pointsr/modelmakers

That is a pretty shitty airbrush.

  1. It is single action which means you have to adjust the nozzle to get the spray pattern needed for the paint viscosity you have. It's OK for "I just dont want to use rattlecans"-use. But you will not get much of the benefits a proper dual action airbrush will give you. Which means you will soon grow out of it and spend money on a dual action airbrush.

  2. Siphon feed airbrushes like this one also requires higher pressure to operate. Which usually isn't a deal breaker if you have a noisy shop compressor or such. It just means the compressor have to work a little more.

  3. Siphon feed airbrushes are a pain to clean compared to gravity fed airbrushes. You can of course have a jar of cleaner handy and just spray it through the airbrush once done. But you'll end up with a bunch of jars of paint and jars with cleaner that you will have to switch between. Which leads us to #4

  4. All those jars of paint will have its contents exposed to air, either when transferring from the original container to an airbrush jar and/or when you switch tops on the jar you connect to the airbrush. Which leads to paint drying out in the jars and constant fiddling with pressure and the needle adjustment.

  5. Did I mention you'll need a jar for every single hue you want to paint? It's great if the connector screws onto your paint jars, but if you want to shoot Humbrol enamel paint and then some Tamiya you will need separate jars to store the paint. Which means more money spent on jars for an airbrush you will grow out of really quick.

  6. As u/windupmonkeys wrote. It's a re-branded cheap airbrush with God knows what connections (looks like Paasche or some similar proprietary connection on the picture) and parts. Which leads down a pretty boring rabbit hole when you need to find spares or connections to compressors.

    For €10-15 more you can get yourself a much better airbrush such as the Harder & Steenbeck Ultra or the Iwata Neo.

    tl;dr: Buy quality, cry once.
u/Astelan · 8 pointsr/Warhammer40k

As a fellow rookie Tau collector/painter I have to say these look pretty cool but I noticed some of the finer panel lines are a little uneven so I wanted to make a suggestion that saved me alot of time and headaches.

You can buy black pigment liners with a 0.05mm tip that will fit right into those panel lines to let you quickly black them out, giving a nice and crisp edge to the armor panels and other fine details.

The one linked is just one I had from my other hobbies but you can get pigment liners from most craft shop with various colors and tip sizes. The .05 or .03 mm ones are the best, anything larger and you're not gonna fit it in the gaps.

edit: grammar, also sorry I can't post a pic of the results, I'm at work on a slow Sunday :)

u/_Panda · 8 pointsr/fountainpens

My suggestion is to buy a Pilot Metropolitan, which comes with both a cartridge and a converter so you can try both out. I would also suggest getting a bottle of a basic, workhorse ink. Something like Noodler's Black would be a good option, a nice saturated black that is waterproof and behaves pretty well on cheap paper.

u/Route66_LANparty · 7 pointsr/Warhammer

> When moving a unit along their movement value'd distance, do you usually measure out the lead model, move it, and then move each other model in the unit in approximately the same (but not measured) distance to maintain coherency, or do you measure out each individual model in a unit to ensure not a single one possibly goes further than its value? Or is this something agreed upon by the players pre-match?

> If each model is measured, I could see some units (ie, conscript squads) being extremely time-consuming or difficult to deal with depending on terrain and model count.

Officially, each model. However almost everyone I've ever played with does it the "time saving way" when dealing with large groups of models. This usually isn't a problem when you are clearly moving them less than max movement range. This is especially the case with horde units that have greater than 10 models to a unit. 20x Poxwalkers for instance. Once you get used to playing, it isn't too time consuming for a single 5 model Marine squad.

> On the second question, is there a generally agreed upon "kit" or set of paint brushes to get before starting to paint models? In addition to the First Strike box I got last night, I also got the small Painting Essentials box which includes a brush (along with cutter, glue, and some small pots), but wasn't sure what other brushes I might need/want before starting to paint.

The "goto" kit for brushes tends to be a Winsor and Newton Series 7 Round Size #2 and #0. Keep them clean with Master's Brush soap and they'll last you a long time. You can find them on Amazon. At $10-$15 a brush they aren't cheap when starting out. And that's arguably more then you need for a first model. You can get by with a cheap bag of small "gold taklon" brushes from walmart or similar at first.

Here's something I wrote recently on brushes for someone else looking for some nicer brushes....

As for Army Painter brushes specifically. It's what I started with before moving to Kolinsky Hair brushes. Still use a number of their small dry brushes for small detail dry brushing. If you are set on Army Painter... The Wargamer series, specifically the Regiment, Character, and Detail brushes are pretty solid. As well as the Wargamer Small Drybrush. Certainly better than Walmart synthetics. Have held up well cleaning with Masters Brush Soap linked below. They just have never had the same type of fine tip you get on a Kolinsky. The super small Army Painter brushes aren't really worth it though in the long run.


I have a large collection of brushes with my better half. Bought her a large collection from different brands from around the world so she could try different styles to find the perfect brush for her.

Essentially, you'll want a Natural Kolinsky fiber brush in round shape for miniature base coating, shading, layering, edging and detail work. They will last you quite a while if you take care of them. Most people find they can do everything with a #2 and #0. A workhorse and a detail brush. Good natural Kolinsky hair helps thinned paint flow properly out of the brush, and holds an excellent point. There are a number of options to get a good Kolinsky brush:

As for brands, you have options:

  • Winsor and Newton Series 7. Well known for quality and value among miniature painters. This is the gauge by which other high end brushes are judged. - #2, #0
  • da Vinci. A little more but you can get a nice Travel Series for similar money to their traditional handled brushes. Helps protect the tip while in storage or traveling to the store to paint. They run a little smaller/thinner than W&N Series 7. - #2, #1. This is always the first brush my better half reaches for, if she's not feeling it that day though she'll pull just about any other Kolinsky brush from her collection.
  • On the cheaper side is ZEM. Had very good luck with them. Good companion for the W&N7 as I use ZEMs when painting metallics as they can be a bit rougher on brushes. They do have some ware to them after dozens of models compared to the more expensive W&N or da Vinci. But don't need to be thrown in the trash like the cheap synthetics. Brush soap does wonders. Set of size #10/0, #0, #2, & #4. Or Individually. These tend to be the first brush I reach for... since I gave the other brushes as a gift. I try to stay to my cheap brushes... If I'm not feeling it that day then I will grab a W&N7.
  • Other Brands of Kolinsky fiber brushes I own but don't have as much experience with... Raphael, Escoda, Connoisseur.
  • There's also Citadel's own Artificer line... They are also Kolinsky fiber brushes so need to be cleaned regularly. I have not tried them but many suggest they are similar quality as the W&N Series 7. Just a little more expensive.
  • When friends come over to learn how to paint up thier board game or DnD minis... I hand them a pouch an assortment of Army Painter Wargamer Brushes or Winsor and Newton synthetic Cotman so they don't need to learn on walmart brushes, but don't risk our Kolinskys.

    Then you'll want to keep it all clean with "The Masters" Brush Soap and Conditioner. Cleaning regularly will make a big difference brush life. ... Keeping brushes freshly rinsed in a basin can help prevent the bad buildup of dried paint to begin with. This kind of thing... or really any sturdy cup you have around that won't tip over easily.

    NOTE - You'll want to use cheaper brushes for Drybrushing, it can just murder brushes. Either walmart/craft store brushes you can toss, or just cheaper quality brushes made for it, like Army Painter or Citadels drybrush lines.

    As for paint... I use Army Painter and Citadel. Citadel primarily for anything warhammer to get color matches. Army painter for some washes, and anything else I paint (boardgame and DnD minis). Rither now I are only using Vallejo for Airbrush paints and a few premium metallics.


    There's a great guide that got me and my other half started over on the /r/minipainting subreddit.

u/The_Omnius · 7 pointsr/minipainting
u/J_C_A_ · 7 pointsr/Warhammer

I approve of this message and I have nothing to add.

Except that I use a size 6 brush for almost everything.

[EDIT] Wait, I do have something ESSENTIAL to add: Get this brush cleaner. I've been working on the same tub of it for the last year and it works miracles with any brush. Even if the brush has paint dried on it this stuff will still make you very happy.

u/schmils · 7 pointsr/de

Sieht nach typischen Pigment Linern aus, kann die von Staedtler empfehlen. Das Skizzenbuch sieht nach nem klassischen Moleskine oder Leuchtturm 1917 aus

u/artomizer · 7 pointsr/SketchDaily

Assuming your microns are the fine liner type and not the brush pens, you should get on the brush pen train!

This one is really nice and popular.

This one is nice too and would be more like what you're used to with the microns, but with a softer tip so you can vary the line weight easily.

I could be wrong, but i'm pretty sure both of these are waterproof. Playing with water soluble ink and a water brush is a lot of fun too and doesn't require much to try out. Something like this (but try to find just one for cheap.. you don't need a bunch) plus random non-waterproof pens you probably have around the house and you're good to go.

u/Slukaj · 7 pointsr/modelmakers

> Is it likely that inhaling the VOCs in the paint caused any damage?

Yes. There is a really damn good reason why every bottle of paint says to only use in well ventilated areas, and that's because both because inhaling VOC's, and inhaling literally anything other than air is pretty bad for your lungs.

Stop working in poorly ventilated spaces. If you can't find a better space, get a spray booth for about $100. If you absolutely, positively cannot work in a better space or get a spray booth, get a respirator with VOC cartridges. Should only cost like $20. The respirator is a last ditch effort to keep your brain and lungs intact, and is far from the ideal solution.

But it's better than inhaling VOC's all day.

u/ineeddis · 6 pointsr/PenmanshipPorn

Looks like this. It's a brush with a tube of water for a handle.

u/Tollas · 6 pointsr/minipainting

Acrylic through an airbrush has very little smell, but that doesn't mean you should spray without a mask or good ventilation.
Several people have recommended this (or similar):

u/Shenaniganz08 · 6 pointsr/Gunpla

Like any hobby the initial cost to start will always be high. You may be tempted to buy cheaper tools but whats the point if you plan on building Gunpla for a while and will end up replacing them. If you only want to build 1-2 kits then you can get away with 2 dollar clippers and a box cutter but it won't give you good results.

Despite the cost these are still the tools I recommend that EVERY Gunpla owner who doesn't plan on painting their kits purchase

A) Tamiya 74035 Sharp pointed side cutters, worth every penny

B) Xuron 410 Side Cutters, very durable at an affordable cost

C) X-Acto X3000, Comfort rubber grip, comes with 2 blades

D) 3 Fine tipped Gundam Markers, Black, Grey and Brown

E) Krylon Acrylic Flat Coat, large can for only $5-6

And that's it.

  1. Use the Xuron side cutters to cut the part off the runner. Cut on the fat part (the runner) not the thin part next to the part (the gate). This will decrease the stress on the plastic and will maintain the sharp blade on your more expensive Tamiya side cutters.

    2)Use the Tamiya cutters to cut the remaining nub, with practice you can get it practically flush to the part.

    3)Clean up the nub with a hobby knife. You don't need sandpaper or a file if you did the steps above correctly and the flat coat will mask any scratches.

    4)Use the Gundam markers for lining

  2. Apply your sticker (peel one of the corners and then "scoop" and apply it using the hobby knife, no tweezer needed).

    6)Finally finish with a top coat

    Total cost with amazon prime is $65. Yes the Initial cost is high but the tools above will last you for 20+ kits (you will need to buy more blades and flat coat). If you really can't afford that you can save up for the Tamiya sharp pointed side cutters and use the Xurons in the mean time (you will have more work to do).

    So $38-65 initial investment to me is really not that expensive
u/YoungRichKid · 6 pointsr/mechanicalheadpens

Keyboard: WASD 61 Keys with custom cap colors (built on their site)

Headphones: Sennheiser HD 598 SR with open backs.

Pen: Baoer 388 with a medium nib

I want to buy a nicer pen but for right now this one (with Noodler's black ink) works perfectly. I use numbers a lot at work, so I plan on making a separate number pad soon, and I also am probably going to purchase a trackball to place between the keyboard and number pad. The headphones I bought on Prime Day for half their normal price (at the time).

u/browniebiznatch · 6 pointsr/fountainpens

Pilot Metropolitan <F> nib and Noodler's Black. Use a CON-40 or CON-50 converter for the ink as the included converter is more for cleaning than anything

u/Vanderbleek · 6 pointsr/TrollXChromosomes

I just use a cheap one from amazon, but it hasn't failed me yet:

The ones with tanks are nice because they don't have to run constantly. That one is pretty quiet as well. On the more expensive side, people seem to like Iwata and Badger, but I don't have experience with them.

u/TheAvengingKnee · 6 pointsr/Warhammer40k

For a compressor get one with a tank, it assures a good even flow of air.

The one I have is:

The compressor I linked is pretty quiet as well.

For airbrushes I have:

The airbrush has worked great for me and looks very nice, it provides a good flow of paint and is very easy to clean.
For paint I use Vallejo model air, is needs to be thinned down a decent amount. I have also tried Citadel air paint and while it needs a small amount of thinning it worked well. There are lots of other good airbrushes as well, I have been very impressed with Badger's airbrushes, they are a little expensive around $100 but they are very good quality. Make sure you get paint reducer and airbrush cleaner as well, the reducer helps thin down the paint to prevent clogs in the airbrush.

u/TheGoodAndTheBad · 6 pointsr/Sneakers

Here's the Amazon link courtesy of u/Head_Honchoo from an earlier thread where this was discussed

u/ryzellon · 6 pointsr/mildlyinteresting
u/Inquisitorsz · 6 pointsr/ImperialAssaultTMG

Here's a few quick tips.

Never leave your brushes standing in a water pot. The bristles will bend and fray very quickly (like less than a minute).

Never let the paint get on or around the metal ferrule part of the brush. That's the bit where the bristles join the handle. Paint is hard to get out of there, and when it dries, it can push out, bend or cut the bristles.
Try to keep the paint to only half of the bristle length.

Wash often and thoroughly. Don't let paint dry in the bristles. Keep it wet, or wash out and get more paint. As above, keep the paint volume minimal. You can load the brush up a bit more if it's a more watery paint like a wash or glaze.

Further to above, you can use brush cleaner or conditioner. It helps get the paint off a bit better than water and can help hold the shape for longer. Can also help remove dried up paint.
I've recently started using Masters Brush Cleaner ( Comes in heaps of sizes, will last for AGES and it's amazing how much extra paint it gets out of the brush.

Try not use detail and high quality brushes for "rough" painting or drybrushing. That sort of motion can damage and bend the thin bristles. Use a specific drybrush or a cheap $2 one for that.

Generally more expensive brushes are better, but there is a limit to that. I jumped over to Winsor & Newton Series 7 brushes and it made a big difference to my painting, however, they still get damaged and they won't last forever either. Obviously, good care will make them last longer but I've been pretty bad at that lately.
For a new painter some of the Army Painter or GW range is a pretty good start. Once you get better and learn to care for the brushes properly, then grab yourself some more expensive stuff.

u/odvall · 6 pointsr/Warhammer40k

Give this stuff a go it’s saved me many pounds on brushes

u/randomisation · 6 pointsr/minipainting

The Master's Brush Cleaner & Preserver-1 Ounce

That's the standard size. £4.16 + free uk delivery.

u/RoboForgotHisPass · 6 pointsr/minipainting

Do you use a brush soap to clean your brushes? I use this:

The key is to leave some soap on the brush when you are not using it and shape the brush to a point (or however it is naturally suppose to be shaped) so that when it dries it will keep that shape. Just be sure to thoroughly rime the brush in your water cup before dipping in the paint.

u/Lug-Nuada · 6 pointsr/Warhammer40k

I use some brush cleaning soap like this one after painting:

u/a1dsinabucket · 5 pointsr/chickswearingchucks

You can actually get this white sharpie and draw it on the sole of your shoe to make it white and then use nail polish remover to get it off anywhere you dont want it

u/necrofuturism · 5 pointsr/minipainting

The Masters brush cleaner & preserver is awesome for cleaning and maintaining your brushes. It also lasts forever because you only need a teensy tiny bit to give your brushes a lil spa day!

u/Bowgs · 5 pointsr/Warhammer40k

Winsor and Newton Series 7, I do 99% of my work with size 0 and 1 brushes, and just use my 000 for faces and extremely small highlights.

Also, if you're destroying your brushes that quickly you need to take better care of them. Make sure you're not using them to mix paint, don't let paint get in the ferrule (the metal part), and clean them regularly with this magic stuff

u/Greystorms · 5 pointsr/minipainting

This spray booth folds up into a stupidly small rectangular box that's really easy to store. Even with an open window in front of you, I'd probably still recommend getting a booth just to keep overspray from going all over your desk/work area/room.

u/yamiyaiba · 5 pointsr/Gundam

Welcome to the hobby, friend! Here's a few useful tidbits of info for you.

None of the Gundam kits from the last 20 or so years need glue. That's a standard feature across pretty much every Gundam model kit. So in that regard, feel free to pick any design you like. Not all kits are created equally, but a quick search across this subreddit will help you figure out if the kit you're looking at happens to be hot garbage (and there are a few that are).

To more directly answer your question, the starter set uses an older model of the classic RX-78-02 Gundam. The Revive version is a much, much better model. You can find it here on Amazon.

A panel lining pen (or pens) are not required, but certainly make for a better final product. They're pretty cheap on their own, and generally you'll want at least grey and black, and possibly also brown. Alternatively, you can get a pack of all 3. You'll also want so basic q-tips/cotton swabs to clean up your panel looking.

You're also going to need some nippers. Nippers come in a range of types, qualities, and styles. The best nippers are single sided (that is, one side is a blade and the other is flat). These, the infamous Godhands are hands down the best nippers on the market. They're expensive as shit, but worth every penny. If you're on a medium budget, Tamiya's nippers are the next best option. There are cheaper nippers out there, but they're gonna come with significantly inferior results. That said, a lot of that can be addressed with...

A good hobby knife. You'll be just fine with a simple, cheap X-Acto knife, but there is (in my opinion) a better option. My personal favorite, the Tamiya Design Knife. It's got a slightly smaller blade, which will let you get into tighter spaces with it. It also comes with a metric crapton of replacement blades. You'll want to replace the blade every couple kits, but there's a bunch of them in there. There same container that holds the replacement blades even has a second chamber to dispose of your old blades into.

Finally, you may want some fine pointed (possibly angled) tweezers for decal application. Finger oils can screw up the adhesive on the stickers. You can pass on this starting off most likely, but you'll want to get some eventually.

TL;DR, the starter pack isn't the best option. If you're after the granddaddy Gundam, get the Revive. Otherwise, pick your favorite design. The newer the kit, the better, generally speaking. Look at the copyright date on the box cover to see. Bottom left corner.

You're going to need nippers, which can get pricey, but the cost is worth it. Start with a mediocre pair, and upgrade to the Godhands once you're committed to the hobby. You'll need a knife, too. You can cheap out on this one, but there are better options IMO.

Optionally, get tweezers, panel lining pens, and cotton swabs.

Edit: other good starter kits

HG Barbatos is a great kit. The build process for IBO models is a bit different than other gunpla, though, as they have a quasi-inner frame.

HG 00 Gundam is another great starter. It's also the first kit I ever panel lined, and it was a great starter for that.

If you're wanting a Zaku, the HG The Origin Zaku II Type C is probably the best Zaku kit released to date in 1/144 scale.

Finally, I'd feel bad for not suggesting my all time favorite HG build. It was just a fun, fun kit to make and to pose. The HG 1.5 Gundam. It's got some really cool gimmicks and, unique colors, and an awesome design.

u/hghpandaman · 5 pointsr/Warhammer

I have a masters compressor and use it with an iwata eclipse. This is the model I use. having a tank is nice since the compressor will stop running when the tank is full. Also, try to get a dual action airbrush. That lets you trigger the air by pushing the trigger down, and the flow of paint is controlled by pulling the trigger back. Gives you a massive amount of control in how much paint is hitting your model

u/Yogymbro · 5 pointsr/minipainting

My wife bought me these for Christmas, and they've been great.

u/AbuShwell · 5 pointsr/Warhammer40k

As you should, get some of this wax. Rinse, run brush across paper towel until it's mostly clean, dip in water, swirl brush gently in this stuff, rinse, run across towel, do until the brush is back to normal color, do one more time but this time focus on reshaping the tip

u/Halgy · 5 pointsr/moleskine

Get Noodlers ink. The stuff is awesome and doesn't bleed through moleskine paper.

u/drzowie · 5 pointsr/InkPorn

If you're using a fountain pen, go with Noodler's Bulletproof Black. Amazon UK has it for under 20 quid, and it's both free-flowing and permanent.

If you're using a dip pen, basic black ink is less expensive. IIRC, I've used Senshi (their top item) and it worked OK. I grew up using Speedball Super Black India Ink, which is listed on that page for under £9. Most of those are for dip pens only, and not suitable for fountain pens.

u/garrettjmoore57 · 5 pointsr/Meditation

A Buddha Board, its one of the coolest things I've seen that somewhat relates to meditation. I'm sure your friend would love it! Buddha Board Amazon

u/FLOCKA · 5 pointsr/modelmakers

I've got the version with the tank. IIRC it cost only $20 more. I like it a lot! I have it paired with an Iwata HP-CS and it does its job marvelously. It's not particularly loud either. You could probably run it in another room without waking somebody up.

If I were you, I'd just save up the extra little bit of money and get the tank version so that the motor isn't constantly running and you can avoid risk of "pulsing" air.

edit: I didn't realize an airbrush comes with it as well. I can't comment on the quality of that, as I only bought a compressor. If you do get, make sure you leave it on the floor! This thing subtly vibrates while it's going and I didn't realize it was slowly creeping off the side of my bench. Scared the shit out of me when it crashed to the floor!

u/AetherGauntlet · 5 pointsr/minipainting

I third this. With a small reservation, I would suggest getting a kit with a small tank like this as it will allow you to play with the airbrush for longer periods of time without having the engine overheat.

u/Sublime-Silence · 5 pointsr/Warhammer

That's a loaded question. I'm going to assume you want the cheapest price for a mid grade set up. I wouldn't recommend going cheaper than this set up personally. tl;dr roughly $170-$200 for a mid grade setup. Can you go cheaper? Yes, would I recommend it? No.

Air brush compressor with tank $100 (ideally you want one with a tank, the master one is actually pretty great but fairly loud, if you want a quieter one you will need to spend more $)

Air brush itself, start off with a quality midgrade brush. DON'T CHEAP OUT AND GET A LOW GRADE MASTER BRUSH TRUST ME. I started with a badger 105 which runs around $55-$70 and really like the thing, but will have to upgrade down the road if I want to do more than just base coating. It's spray pattern is very wide so for finer details it's really hard (for me) to use.

Airbrush flow improver. $10-$15 per 200ml. You will mix this 25(flow improver)/25(distilled water)/50(paint) for thinning purposes. Obviously some paints will need to be thinned more and others less. Generally you want the consistency of milk for your end product. Proper paint thinning and what psi to shoot it at will be one of the biggest things to learn when starting off airbrushing, but it's something you will learn fast through trail and error. I highly recommend getting some models you don't care about to get through this process. I was lucky enough to have my store manager let me practice painting some terrain for the store to get over my learning curve.

Airbrush cleaner + roll of paper towels. Once you are done with the paint and need to clean out the airbrush fill the cup with water, shoot out the water (into the airbrush pot) clean out the bowl with a paper towel, put cleaner in and shoot that out, then keep shooting water through till soap bubbles stop forming and water is clear.

Airbrush pot/holder this is really a great investment for $13 holds the airbrush and it gives you a place to spray your left overs/clean out your brush

u/disgustipated · 5 pointsr/airbrush

More important than two cylinders, see if you can find one with a holding tank, like this. It will give you much more consistent airflow, and the compressor won't run nearly as much.

u/[deleted] · 4 pointsr/learnart

Yay! Painting! I hope you enjoy it. :)

For tools:

After rinsing out your brushes in your jar or water or whatever, be sure to wipe it down with towel/rag, then lay it flat. DON'T LEAVE THEM SITTING IN THE JAR. They get messed up that way. I also swear by The Master's Brush Cleaner. I generally use it after a painting session. It has saved a few mistreated brushes from the garbage can.

Another tool that I use frequently is matte medium and different kinds of flow releasers. You probably won't need this just yet, but I found that they helped me immensely. When you're using acrylics, chances are that you're using water to dilute pigment and thin out your paint as you go along. This is fine, for the most part, but it sometimes takes a lot of mixing to get an even consistency. Using an acrylic-based medium will allow you to thin out your paint without having the weird quality that you get with water. Again, this might not be something you'll even think about or notice until you've been painting for a while.

Pure, transparent matte medium is also good to paint on tape edges before you go in with your color to ensure a clean, hard edge.

If you're using acrylics, a hairdryer can be your friend. The thing about acrylics is that they air-dry quickly, and even moreso with a dryer. This means that once you've made a mistake, or finished an area to a certain degree, you can dry it off with the hairdryer, then almost immediately cover it up with another coat.

As for actual technique, you learn more as you go along. You'll develop experience, personal style, preference, influences, etc.. But here are some general things I keep in mind:

Paint from the background to the foreground. This means that you paint, say, your blue sky before the mountain. This ensures that:

  1. You don't have to carefully paint around the mountain once you get around to mixing up some blue.
  2. The background and its environment will almost always help you establish a general sense of light, mood, and direction before you get caught up in the details of the foreground.
  3. Thicker layers of paint will sometimes "feel" like they're in the foreground. Painting the foreground on top of the background layer helps you to do this.

    (edit: As with drawing, you should be aware of the whole canvas at once, and block big parts in first, then work to details. Don't let my above process get in the way of taking care of the "big picture" stuff. It just happens that for me at least, the background is often the largest part of the composition!)

    Also, remember to mix for black whenever possible. Using black straight out of the tube can feel flat and cheap. Unless that's something you're going for, at least mix it with another color to give it some depth.

    Then there's even more about color. What do you know about mixing colors, pigment, etc.? Do you work in, say, colored pencils or even color digital media at all? I can talk for ages about more of this kind of stuff. But I've said enough already.

    There's so much to know! One of the best things you can do to teach yourself is to also look at your favorite artists and see if you can research their techniques. Read interviews with them, some might post videos, etc. etc. But most of all-- have fun and experiment.
u/Pukit · 4 pointsr/modelmakers

So what are you planning on painting? Are we talking entire models, or just detail work, or doing mini painting like /r/minipainting?

Reason I ask is that kinda gives reason as to what to buy.

I do a lot of hand painting as do a great deal of warhammer models, for these you need a decent set of kolinksy sable brushes but they're not cheap. I have brushes from the Army Painter, from Windsor Newton, from Citadel all of which aren't cheap. I have a decent set of synthetic brushes for doing lesser critical work but generally stick to sable for detail work. In honesty it's very rare to use a 00/000/0000 brush, the reason is they hold such little paint the paint can dry on them really quickly. You can paint the same detail with a 1 or a 0 as a 0000 if you're careful.

I'd suggest to work out exactly what you're after first, if it's to do entire models then check out videos from the likes of Owen at Quickkits as he brushes all his models.

If I were starting out fresh and wanted a good set of brushes off the bat I'd honestly buy this set by Army Painter. Yes it's not cheap, but it's got decent detail brushes, standard size and large area brushes. It's also got a nice set of coarse drybrushes.

Something else to consider is brush care, afterall you spend a fortune on brushes and then they split etc, it's a really sad day when one of my WN brushes splits.

A few tips from me, never fully load a brush, never fill it to the metal ferrule with paint, in honesty half full is too much imo. Always thin your paint. Routinely rinse your brush and have two pots to rinse. First water pot for a propper rinse, then a second pot to rinse finally. Dry by wiping along a paper towel. At the end of a painting session, take your brushes to the sink and rinse under warm water and use a brush cleaner/preserver like Masters. You don't want paint to dry within the bristles or the ferrule as this will make the brush split, so always keep them wet, don't let paint dry in your brush. Always store horizontally with the plastic bristle protector on, never leave a brush bristle down in a water pot ever. But be prepared that even a really well maintained brush, used a decent amount will die after six-eight months or so.

u/degen2233 · 4 pointsr/Warhammer
  1. Go with whatever visually/story-wise/tactically appeals to you the most. If you have zero interest in close combat, Tau. If you like spikey rape and murder and awesome speed, DE. CSM are spikey without the rape, but just as much murder plus more durability. Look up the 1d4chan tactics articles on each faction--they're a fun read, if nothing else.

  2. Water pot, paint palette, and I'd recommend this fancy brush cleaner as well as nice brushes. Research what type of brushes (kolinsky sable are a common top-of-the-line purchase) you want before buying them. Whether you're new to painting in general or not, I still recommend taking good care of nice brushes as opposed to constantly replacing crappy brushes. You get way more mileage and quality. here is the method I use for cleaning brushes using Master's cleaner. I recently started doing this, and it's been great. Wish I started earlier. Shameless product placement for the win, huh?

  3. Basically, get your hands on the codex for the army you want as well as a rulebook (or use your imagination to cut down on startup costs). Explore what kinds of units you want to field in the codex. Start with an HQ choice and two Troops choices. Your friends will be able to help you with list writing and rules initially.
u/boy-robot · 4 pointsr/witchcraft

If you have any plants, moonwater is great for tending them. You can also use it in teas, baths, cleansing sprays, and as a base for any kind of magical liquid mixture.

I also like to use it for making temporary drawings/inscriptions - marking out a circle on the floor, or writing on a buddha board.

u/pianokid401 · 4 pointsr/Gunpla

Here's a link to the one I got on Amazon:

Master Airbrush Brand Portable Hobby Airbrush Spray Booth (without Optional LED Lighting) for Painting All Art, Cake, Craft, Hobby, Nails, T-shirts &

It's seems pretty good. I haven't been able to test mine with paint but I did plug it in real quick when I got it and it seems like it's pretty strong. Hopefully this week I'll be able to start.

u/Blusttoy · 4 pointsr/Gunpla

If you wish to use markers for panel lining, you will want a fine tip pen such as:

u/SeiJai · 4 pointsr/Gunpla

I bought a [Tamiya tool set] ( like a decade a ago and I still use the side cutter and blade. I am not use to hobby knives, so I cut the nub far from the piece and then use the slide knife in that set to remove the remaining nub. I'm just more comfortable with that than I am with hobby knives. And then if there are still white stress marks, run over it with your fingernail. It works, don't know the chemistry or physics behind it. Get a [gundam marker lining pen thing] ( You can use other fine tipped marker, different colors, etc, but your mileage may vary.

u/Atrulyoriginalname · 4 pointsr/Warhammer40k

If you ever need brush cleaner, this works really well. I have used alcohol before though, and it definitely works well for dried on paint with a bit of soap.

u/ty944 · 4 pointsr/ageofsigmar

This stuff work wonders for cleaning & maintaining your brushes.

Amazon Link

u/MrSanpeds · 4 pointsr/Warhammer40k

I have seen a lot of people recommend Masters Brush Cleaner and Preserver, as linked below.

I've got myself a pot and it is really good, the first time i used it I was amazed how much paint came out of what I thought was a 'clean' brush.

Quite cheap as well, and it will last forever.

u/CivilC · 4 pointsr/Gunpla

The reason why /u/triviper said it's about $200+ to start airbrushing is because you need not just the airbrush, but the compressor, moisture trap, hose, and adaptors if you're buying everything separately and want a setup that will last you a long time.

My setup isn't the best, but I got

u/windupmonkeys · 4 pointsr/modelmakers

I used that airbrush for three years. Be mindful that that airbrush is going to be less precise and less well machined than a more expensive brush. It also needs to be cleaned more frequently than other brushes, or it will jam. I cleaned it often enough that I just removed the back handle entirely because it served no useful purpose (not even as a counterweight). That brush is serviceable. It won't run circles around your expensive airbrushes of the world, but it works. If you don't clean it, though, that thing is going to drive you crazy.

In case this is helpful:

I still use that compressor when I build models. My airbrush now though is this:

The brush a lot of people consider a nicer starter brush (i.e. in a way, the next level up) is this one:

u/nicely11b · 4 pointsr/modelmakers

Airbrushing is above and beyond nicer than brush painting. You just can't do things with a brush that you can with an airbrush. Don't break the bank with an airbrush now. Get something simple and get your feet wet with it. I've been recommending the Neo for Iwata a lot lately. It's half the price of most mid-range airbrushes but definitely gives you a much better airbrush than something like a Master. Master's are very frustrating to work with.

u/Redleg137 · 4 pointsr/airbrush

Okay, that's a broad question you are asking.

First you need a brush. Get a double action. I recommend either the badger patriot 105, or the iwata neo for your first brush.

You need a compressor. I used a cheap one off amazon pretty well until I upgraded to a larger California air tools silent compressor.

You want a moisture trap as well, plus an air hose.

As far as paints go I really like the Vallejo model air and game air paints. The game air paints have very vibrant colors, whereas the model air line is more like real camo colors from WW2

u/PoserMobile45 · 3 pointsr/Sneakers

I'm going to get alot of shit for this! When I got the shoes the midsoles were BURNT yellow, hadn't been cleaned in years. After I hit them with the Jason Markk, I purchased this sharpie and colored over the midsole, made it crispy white. It's an oil based white and made them look BRAND NEW! Hope that helps.

u/stephaquarelle · 3 pointsr/Watercolor

I have that same brush and it also looks like that when it is dry. It is one of my favorite brushes. I read somewhere that as long as the brush comes to a fine point when wet, then all is still good :)

My brush care from my experience - When I'm done painting I rinse or swish the brush with warm water until there is no color if I dab it on a paper towel. Squeeze out excess water, and let them dry on their side (upside down would be better so that water doesn't leak into the ferrule). This is the lazy approach but works best, I'm finding :)

If I used a staining color like phthalo blue, or if I feel like the brush is still dirty, I might use a little of the master's conditioning soap to clean it, rinse, apply a little more to "condition" and then squeeze out excess water and shape to a point. I used to use this every time after I painted, but I heard it can be a little harsh on natural bristles so now I just do it every once in awhile.

Another tip is just to be gentle with brushes while painting - if you scrub with them they wear out quicker - I often use a cheap brush when mixing colors or doing scrubby things.

I'm not 100% sure this is the best care for brushes, as every guide or person seems to have their own way, but this is how I've been taking care of my natural and synthetic brushes for a few years and almost all of them are still holding up well. Some of my synthetic brushes are losing their sharp tip a little over time.

u/paperpanzers · 3 pointsr/modelmakers

Brushes whatever you need, I use a lot the 0, 3/0 and 10/0 all round tipped but this depends on how you paint. A lot of people here (in other posts) mentioned Winston and Newton series 7 if I remember well, I use davinci and vallejo ones. The best bristle is from kolinsky sable.

About having the same brush repeated for each type of paint is kinda retarded but if you feel like doing it go ahead.

What you really need if you want them to last is this
. Just google it and there're a ton of vids on how to use it (not hard but just in case)

u/wjapple · 3 pointsr/Gunpla


It's a lifesaver, have used it for a long time as a painter, works just as well for modeling. clean your brushes with it after every session. you can also find, at art stores, brush reshaping conditioners made to fix frayed bristles.
if you are buyng high quality brushes, they need to be very well taken care of to be worth the money.

are you painting detail work, or whole kits?

u/KiriONE · 3 pointsr/Warhammer40k

The only reason to stay away from GW brushes is the price. You can buy comparable brushes for slightly less that's all.

At the end of the day, whatever brush you buy: TAKE CARE OF THEM.

I'd say for anything that's smaller than a vehicle, a well maintained 1 is a fine brush. If the tip is good, you can go as high as a 3 but will need some good control. I do edge highlighting with a 000 to 0, I have an 18/0 for eyes. I'll base with a 1 or larger depending on how quickly I want it done.

Here's a Brush Cleaner I, and a lot of people I know, use

u/LaurenceCuckoo · 3 pointsr/Warhammer

Army Painter are probably the best reasonably priced equivalent however if you want to up your game definitely splash out on some Windsor and Newton Series 7 like /u/Route66_LANparty mentioned.

Whatever you go with make sure you get some of this, proper use will keep your brushes alive for months on end ;)

u/damonish · 3 pointsr/Warhammer

Masters brush cleaner is awesome. It's basically a soap you work into the brush and it can revitalize even far gone brushes.


Here's Les from the Awesomepaintjob using it

It's good stuff.


u/Merendino · 3 pointsr/minipainting

I'd say with almost absolute certainty, DO NOT BUY the citadel brushes. Buy 1 or 2 Winsor Newton series 7 brushes. Probably a #1 and a #0. Buy some of this masters brush cleaner as well. And you're set. My personal advice is to clean your brush every 5-10 minutes no matter what. The citadel brushes are sooooo damned expensive for what you get vs what you need that it feels criminal.

u/hotwateralkaline · 3 pointsr/Warmachine

I'd also add brush cleaner for when you upgrade to the nice brushes.

u/glon · 3 pointsr/lasercutting

I use my airbrush for applying anything that I can, be that paint/stain/finish etc. Aside from saving money on paint you get much better results with a bit of practice. Smoother transitions etc etc. This is especially true with laser cut projects as I will often mask whatever it is that I am making, which allows me to spray the engraved/cut parts with an airbrush, and then remove the masking for perfect is an example Basically an airbrush is GREAT in combination with a laser cutter, that said, there is a cost. I'll provide you some links to my setup.



fume hood

masking material

Also there will be a smattering of paints/cleaners/paint thinners and airbrush cleaning supplies you'll need. So you are probably looking at $300-500 investment to get a good set up. Now clearly you can spend less on the airbrush, and if you plan on working outside, you can skip the fume hood etc etc, but just know that you won't be saving money on this right off the bat. All that said I heartily recommend getting one

u/HoathZX · 3 pointsr/Gunpla

In terms of starter compressors, this is the one usually recommended.
This has both a pressure gauge and moisture trap along with a tank. Only issue is you may need to buy a different size hose and/or adaptor as airbrushes vary in connector size and not sure if it would fit the one you have. The reason for a tank is that it allows for a more constant air pressure as air is coming from the tank reserve and not directly from the compressor which can give some variance on your pressure as you spray which can affect your paint job. It also takes load off the compressor as they will generally sleep once the tank is full and pressure is met therefore extending the life of the compressor as it won't be constantly on as you spray.

u/AenarIT · 3 pointsr/Warhammer40k
  1. An airbrush is DEFINITELY worth it. Both money- and time-wise. Plus the vehicles (and other large flat surfaces) will be covered in a very nice way, something you cannot do with a brush.

  2. Try to get a cheap (20-40$) airbrush, since it is hard to properly clean and you need to practice with it before fully appreciating a 200$ one. Look for a double action airbrush.

  3. Try to get a good compressor, since it will last and will serve you in the future. Look for a compressor with an air tank, 3L is enough. I bought mine for 100$ and it works wvery well (it should be this one).

  4. As an airbrush station you can use a cardboard box, plus some cardboard or newspaper to protect your table/desktop.

  5. You will need some cleaning supplies, like an Airbrush Cleaner (I suggest the Vallejo one, but you can find something cheaper), a needle-like tip to clean small holes, ...

  6. Finally, you will need some paints. You can use the standard GW ones, but you need to thin them down with a proper Thinner (I suggest Vallejo's one, again). You can also look into the Citadel Air range. My suggestion is to get some Vallejo Game Air or Vallejo Model Air paints for the color you need most (primer, basecoat, ..), then use your Citadel paints thinned down for the less used colors. Vallejo paints come in dropper bottles, MUCH MUCH BETTER than the standard Citadel pots for airbrushing.
u/HeyItsJay · 3 pointsr/Gunpla

I'm not a veteran by any means in terms of Airbrushing (I've airbrushed 2 kits... a MG Strike Freedom & a MG Nu)

For both of them I went with a very cheap set-up...

For the Airbrush I used a Iwata Neo Gravity which I bought at Hobby Lobby for about $45 w/ their 40% off Coupon :P and it was a great starter airbrush, to me it was straight to the point and definitely something I'd recommend.

As far as my compressor goes, I went with Master Compressor. Reason being is it had a Hose, Water Trap & the Compressor. It works great and I still use it and I like it.

I didn't have a Spray Booth and went with spraying in a damn tub I bought at Walmart for $3 lol and didn't even have a mask...

I highly recommend getting one as it definitely helps out.

I recently bought one and I now use the MSA Safety Works Mask. I started painting my 3rd Airbrushed Kit (about 3 pieces primered lol) and this mask is a god send. I was killing myself before and don't suggest you do the same.

With a Airbrush & the Compressor Set that I linked you should be good to go all you really need is paint which I bought all of mine at the time from Hobby Town USA since they carry Tamiya Paints which are very user friendly and I thinned it 1:1 with 91% Isoprophyl Alcohol from Walmart.

I was in the very same position as you lol, I built about 9 kits before starting a Airbrushed model.

I recently purchased another Airbrush, I got the Master G23 and I've only used Primer on it but it's pretty good, the action isn't as great as my Neo but it's nice enough since I'm no pro and I feel it matches my skill level.

If you have any other questions I can help you as much as I can.


u/furrythrowawayaccoun · 3 pointsr/modelmakers

IWATA NEO CN airbrush and AS-186 compressor.

For a total of 140$ as the time of writing this (on 5.8.2019.) it is the best cheap airbrush and compressor combo.

Why? You get the whole package - Airbrush, a compressor with a tank, air filter and a hose which is all you need to start airbrushing

Iwata Neo is considered the best cheap(est) branded airbrush on the market by many so I used it here, also the AS-186 compressor (Check later in the page about it more) is p good. You also get a hose which far too many people forget to buy when choosing a compressor.

mostly everything


Note for other users - I am currently rewriting the airbrush page a bit (this will be on the top of the page), so if you have any wishes to add to it please comment.

u/MrGrieves123 · 3 pointsr/Gunpla

Sure, nothing special really, this is my brush.

Here's my compressor

I've only been painting for about 6 months now but if there's one thing I have learned it's to be patient and not rush, also make sure your paint is the right consistency.

u/SmallDoesStuff · 3 pointsr/characterdrawing

Buy the cheapest, thickest sketchbook you can, (in the UK, I'd hit up The Works)and some pens, ballpoint maybe, preferably fineliners, like these bad boys, then fill it up.

There are tons of resources available.

Some tips I have picked up:

Start with perspective, simple one-point perspective and a bunch of boxes ( try this place ), and just fill sketchbooks up.

Split your drawing time into practice and personal, still draw stuff you love, but make time to just practice. Noone else will see the results, it's just for you to learn how things look.

Use reference, not tracing if you can avoid it, as much as you can. Learn what things actually look like, how bits of the body fit together and work. Draw what you see, not how you think things look.

Try and find others who are learning too and learn together, even just posting stuff online for advice.

*From the last one, try and see advice as positive, noone is perfect and (other then the occasional twat), use what they have said to get better :)

Sorry for the wall of random stuff, I'm still early in my journey too and these are the tips I keep hearing again and again. Good luck!! Can't wait to see what you come up with in the future.

u/Not-an-alt-account · 3 pointsr/learntodraw

Staedtler Pigment Liner I believe is what is being used.

Edit: Kiket to liner.

u/rtwpsom2 · 3 pointsr/modelmakers

That airbrush compressor is just this $66 one. most of that stuff can be found cheaper if you look closely. Even the badger and paache ones are the same compressor, just reskinned or with a fancy enclosure.

u/FlyingShepherd · 3 pointsr/modelmakers

If you want something that is quiet, look for a diaphram style compressor instead of a piston. The air compressors at your hardware store will all be piston style ones that can be around 80-100db. A mid-level diaphram compressor can be found for less than most compressors at your hardware store. Most airbrush compressors are very similar, with the internals likely coming from the same factory in china. Some have an attached tank which helps keep a steady air pressure, though ones without will still work fine.

For example:

u/Probably_Not_Evil · 3 pointsr/minipainting

This Army Painter starter set is your best bet. It has Black, White, 3 primary colors, green, a flesh tone, a good brown, steel metallic(you can add colors to it of you want the metal to look a different color), and Strong tone wash(actually my favorite wash, period). Even comes with an okay detail brush.

If you want purple and orange. You can pick up any brand you want and it'll work just fine with these paints. Citadel is usually the easiest to find if you have gaming shop nearby. Or if you have a hobby lobby, they sell Vallejo model paints. They're good. Other brands that come to mind. Reaper, P3, Secret Weapon, and Scale 75. All good.

So all you'd need to get is a primer of your choice. And a decent brush, here's a decent brush set. And probably want to get a good matte varnish. Most people recommend Testors dull coat. But if you want brush on. Vallejo matte varnish is a good alternative. All in all you could easily be under $50.

Miniac's video on how to take care of your brushes

u/Extech · 3 pointsr/ActionFigures

Use acrylic paint and make sure you thin it, adding regular water will work. This is probably the most important step in producing a decent looking paint job.

Better painters than I say shoot for the consistency of milk, I usually don't go that thin, but close. You might have to do a few more coats to get proper paint coverage with thinned paint, but the figure will come out looking much better and smoother than painting straight out of the bottle.

Learn to dry-brush and apply washes. These are two of the easiest painting techniques to learn and apply, and they can take a custom paint job to another level.

Here's an old comment of mine That goes into more detail about dry-brushing a applying washes.

If you need brushes I'll recommend this set. I used them for 90% of all my customs and I'm a big fan. I've also bought a few of these sets cause they're dirt cheap and use some of them for dry-brushing and applying washes. Since dry-brushing kinda tears up brushes you don't want to use a nicer brush.

/r/minipainting has a lot of great tutorials on their sidebar. I pretty much learned everything I know from watching minifigure painting tutorials on Youtube, so maybe check some of them out. I started painting/customizing with Warhammer 40k and D&D minis and most of the techniques apply to action figures.

As JSK said Figurerealm is great, I used that a lot when I first started customizing, and it's great for looking at other people's customs to get inspiration.

I can't really think of anything else, but just ask if you have any more questions.

u/creativelycara · 3 pointsr/bujo

Staedtler watercolor brush marker for the green color -

Pentel Waterbrush -

I used the staedtler brush marker to color on a block. I then used the water brush to pick-up the green color and paint on the paper. That's for the watercolor items. Let me know what other materials you're interested in if I missed something you needed. The leaves, days and hydrate stuff are stamps and I used the staedtler brush marker to color on the stamp for the green items. Not sure if I have links for those, but I could find some if needed.

u/Thespeckledkat · 3 pointsr/Watercolor

Daniel Smith Essentials set $23 , Arches Hot Press Watercolor Pad $11, Pentel Waterbruahes 3 pack - $13 , and a bottle of [India Ink $3] ( If I had a little extra, I'd spring for the da Vinci round 6 sable travel brush - favorite all around brush for smaller paintings :)

What about you? What would you have purchased? Or are you looking to buy?

u/tuna1997 · 3 pointsr/Gunpla

If you're talking about this model

I just got the updated version, it does the job well for airbrushing at around 15-25 psi, I haven't tried it with anything else though. The LED lights it comes with are bright and the fans are strong. I've read reviews that some people have problems with it after a couple of months and others say it works very well after a year plus of regular use.

But they're easy to fold and relatively light so very easy to transport from one location to another

u/cacheflow · 3 pointsr/modelmakers

I was looking at getting something like this

Does anyone have any experience with that?

u/Scotter65 · 3 pointsr/modelmakers

Master Airbrush Brand Portable Hobby Airbrush Spray Booth for Painting All Art, Cake, Craft, Hobby, Nails, T-Shirts & More.

This is a similar one my wife got me for Christmas last year.

No smells that are noticable so far.

u/Monumental_TCG · 3 pointsr/minipainting

I'm not OP, but it looks like an airbrush station which is purchasable on Amazon. Something like . Hope this helps!

u/millerhkl · 3 pointsr/Gunpla

I recently bought a setup about a month ago so if you are in the US, I'd recommend the following:

  • 1/5 hp Portable Airbrush Compressor with Tank $89.99
  • 10'ft braided airbrush hose, 1/8" bsp aka Iwata $5.99
  • Point Zero Dual Action Gravity Feed Airbrush with 0.2, 0.3, 0.5mm nozzle-needle sets and 1/8" bsp quick disconnect $23.99
  • 20% discount for buying over $100 from this Amazon vendor
  • Safety is very important! Portable Spray Booth $79.99 w/ Prime, not eligible for above discounts
  • Comes out to about $175.96 before tax.

    I have the compressor, the hose, and the booth and they've worked great for me so far. Honestly, you save on shipping vs. the Master Brand and mine came preassembled with the regulator installed. The Master Brand ones are notorious for having regulators that you screw in and they end up tilted to the side. In fact I think people in this sub have pointed this flaw out (there's a better link with pictures, I just can't find it). Items were shipped promptly and got here in one piece. You also get the discounts if you buy a certain amount from them.

    I actually have an Iwata NEO that I got from Amazon for about $40ish. I'm still on the fence as to whether or not I like airbrushing or not. Honestly, I wish I had gotten the PointZero brush just as a cheap intro dual-action brush.

    I think someone on this subreddit once pointed out that an airbrush is like a regular brush, just powered by air. They weren't kidding. It takes time to master. If you have the money to spend on a fancy >$100 airbrush like the Krome, then less of your time will be spent trying to master the idiosyncrasies of your brush. But it doesn't change the fact that it takes practice to be able to lay down really smooth, thin coats consistently.

    I don't know how busy you are as a student, but it can be time consuming to set everything up, test your spray conditions, mix your paints, actually paint, and then clean everything up. If you find you like the process, then you can invest in a better brush in the future and keep your old one for laying down primer or base coating.

    But there's nothing wrong with OOB snap builds if you find that's your thing.

    edit: for link formatting mistakes, and also to say that I'm not very experienced yet, so take my advice with a grain of salt.

    edit 2: My other regret is not considering compressed CO2. I live near a welding supply shop and a restaurant supply shop that both sell compressed CO2 cylinders. A 10 lb tank with high pressure regulator would have been around $120 and then some for converters or extra regulators. People on the fine scale forums claim that a 10 lb tank could last months for airbrushing and it's only $17 to refill at either shop. Would have been perfect too for carbonating beverages for homebrew purposes. Just another option to consider. Definitely do not buy the Badger compressed air cans. They don't last long enough.
u/BigBraddWolfe · 3 pointsr/minipainting

The box behind it is a Master spray booth (folded up into briefcase form). There’s also a patio door and a HEPA filter out of frame.

u/NSX_guy · 3 pointsr/modelmakers

Since returning to the hobby, I haven't had many weeks when I didn't pick something up.

holy tools Batman!

Starting from the top right we have:

RB Productions handle bender (I don't build armor!)
RB Productions parallel bending jig
RB Productions angled bending jig
Iwata Eclipse HP-CS dual action airbrush
RB Productions R10 photoetch bending tool
Iwata airbrush cleaning station
RB Productions Scribe-R file (3 scribers)
RB Productions Nano saws set
Sticky pencil (not pictured)
Spray booth (not pictured)

it's been a fun few months.

u/MG_Sazabi_Main · 3 pointsr/Gunpla

I recommend taking a trip down to a local hobby store that sells gunpla- I've found that (at least for mine) it's usually cheaper and can have kits that aren't available online. You can also improve your build with some panel lining- using one of these (or a marker of your choice) along lines in the design to make it look as though 2 panels are separated.

u/KujoWanKenobi · 3 pointsr/transformers
u/Splurch · 3 pointsr/minipainting

I would highly recommend you get a basic airbrush station. Masters makes a very simple airbrush station that while not perfect does help considerably, (there's are a few versions, one without tubing and another without light.) Alternatively you could put it near a window and have a fan blowing it out. Either way you really don't want to breath that aerosolized paint/primer/varnish and it lingers for quite a while, even after you've stopped smelling it.

As for flock storage I use some plastic Really Useful Boxes that I've glued some foam sheet to the top inside of the lid of to stop it from spilling out when closed.

u/crazyaky · 3 pointsr/airbrush

That is the one, without the lighting. I wound up getting [this one] ( because it was roughly the same total cost as the one you linked to since I have prime for free shipping and it came with the lights. If I had to do it over, I would probably get the one you linked to and get some of the LED's pointed out by /u/Bastidgeson.

Here is a video I found of someone actually using the booth. Skip to around 3:20. My only other comment is to make sure that there is enough room for the unit plus the hose coming out of the back wherever you are putting it. I have mine set up on a counter top (standard 24" deep) and, even angling the hoses at 90's to snake it to the window, the booth still sticks out over the edge of the counter by around 8 inches. I measured from the wall to the front edge and it's about 32 1/2" in total, from the front edge to the back curve of the hose. I wound up getting 3 pieces of scrap wood to put under it as support, just in case.

I decided to try to take a photo to show you what the built-in lighting looks like. I manually set up the photo so it looks very close to what I was seeing. I put that orange paint in there to really show the blue lighting effect on color. The 'white' stuff has been base coated with Vallejo Ivory. The AT-ST's in the back are the gray Krylon primer, prepped for painting. As a contrast photo, here are some y-wings with the same Vallejo Ivory (and one with just white Krylon primer), but under natural LED lighting. Also, you can see two of my tricks for prepping to airbrush large groups of things. For flat-ish objects, I can use double-sided tape on those jumbo craft sticks. For everything else, I use the blue poster tack stuff. I also keep empty medicine bottles in case there is just one thing that I am painting. Really, that turntable hasn't helped me much.

u/Roflchard · 3 pointsr/Gunpla
u/notsymmetrical · 3 pointsr/modelmakers

Basically, when a compressor has an air tank it gives you a steadier supply of air, less pulsations, while also extending the life of the compressor itself.

The AS186 that /u/whatsmyloginagain brought up is similar to this:

Compressors that have more than one piston also provide more airflow and less pulsations. You're basically buying a very basic compressor for a premium price if you choose the grex bundle. I'm sure the grex has better quality control, but the majority of people who have purchased tankless compressors (including myself) have come to regret it.

On the airbrush front, I second what whatsmyloginagain brought up. Buying an Infinity is basically buying a top tier brush for this hobby and gunpla. I'd recommend looking at Mr Hobby/GSI Creos airbrushes before you decide to purchase an Iwata, as theres a 99% chance they're made by the same company. Check out if you want to browse through the Mr Hobby line. Alternatively, you could order straight from a Japanese hobby shop and save a couple of dollars, but lose out on any sort of customer support.

u/7x13 · 3 pointsr/Gunpla

I picked up one off ebay for $45 with the brand FUWA on it. Only issue was it didn't have 1/8th fittings that an airbrush needs so i went and got fittings to make it work.

Ive Heard good things about Master Airbrush Compressors(airbrushes not so much)

I believe the one I would get would be the TC-40-T

u/roborabbit_mama · 3 pointsr/airbrush

I was looking at the one linked from home depot, but I was also looking at this other one from Amazon, the Master airbrush model TC-40T but a lot of the reviews say it doesn't last very long before breaking.

I really need something portable and small for storage (apartment living), that ideally has a tank to cool down.

u/95Mb · 3 pointsr/modelmakers

Also, for the love of anything remotely holy, clean your drybrush as soon as you're done using it!

Generally, you don't thin the paint you use when drybrushing so the paint dries faster and thicker and will ruin your bristles if you're not careful.

I like to use this to clean my brushes. Drybrush will still wear away your brush, but cleaning it with more than just water will keep it going for much longer.

Also, all the greebling on the the Y-wing will be a great way to practice washing and drybrushing!

u/XnFM · 3 pointsr/minipainting

All you need is water to clean off the bristles, and some brush soap at the end of the session.

Thinners are generally reserved for enamels and oils.

u/CSMHowitzer0 · 3 pointsr/minipainting

Hey OP, you specifically need brush soap. Also for some really gunky brushes you can get some brush restorer. The first is a soap made specifically for paint brushes and the restorer is a clear liquid that can help get paint that is caught in the ferrule. The restorer is great. I bought a set of helping hands and I've revived some really old brushes by just letting them sit in there for a few hours. Winsdor and Newton make the restorer.

Anyways, brush soap is ideal for holding the bristles firm and to help remove paint from between the fibers. You definitely need to get some. Even if you still go through brushes like mad this is just proper brush-hygiene. My cleaning process is to at least clean every brush I used at the end of every painting session. I also clean them when I move to a totally different color (e.g. blues to reds). "The Masters" is a good and very popular brush soap and I also oddly like the scent Amazon Link.

Cheers, PS: Make sure you get the soap wet before you start swiping the brush all up on it. ;)
Edit: PSS: Do not stick your brush in restorer fluid past the ferrule. It will eat away the glue binding everything together and you will have ruined a brush.

u/bethanyb00 · 3 pointsr/sugarfreemua

I wonder how the BB one compares to the General Pencil Company cleaner I've heard so much about.

I currently just swirl my brushes around in soapy water and it can be quite time consuming for foundation brushes. I need to try one of these products. I also want to get a spray to use on eyeshadow blending brushes between thorough washes.

u/Krazed59 · 3 pointsr/minipainting

I use this brush cleaner. When I'm done using my brushes for the day I clean them with it (just water and the cleaner) and then wash them. I then lather the brushes in the cleaner again before hanging them up on the rack. The cleaner dries semi-hard and helps keep the points straight and firm.

u/sarkastik87 · 3 pointsr/SWlegion

I use this stuff and it is incredible at getting paint out and keeping brushes happy.
Brush Soap

u/inc0nceivable · 3 pointsr/MakeupAddiction

I just bought this at the recommendation of someone here. That will save my hands!

u/brundylop · 3 pointsr/splatoon

I believe the aero spray is modeled after the famous Iwata Airbrush in real life:

u/Thjoth · 3 pointsr/guns

My Lamy Safari is getting quite worn out. I've had it for years and it's been riding around in my pocket the entire time. Switching back to writing in cursive with that pen made it so that I can actually somewhat keep up with notes without developing horrifying writer's cramp.

A large portion of the black coating is gone off of the wire clip, it no longer retains in the cap like it should, and I've had to replace the nib where it got loose in my pocket and got crushed. Still love the thing, though. In the end, it's wound up saving me money, because the $40 I spent on the pen, a bottle of ink, plunger insert, and replacement nib is all I've spent on writing implements in the last 3 years or so, whereas before, I was going through multiple G2 gel pens a month.

I have no idea why that caused me to go off onto such a tangent. I guess I'm just attached to that pen. I use Noodler's Bulletproof Black Ink in mine, by the way.

EDIT: Why not get that USP in .45 ACP, by the way? I think I would have gone with .45 instead. I already have half a dozen handguns in 9mm, though, so maybe it's just saturation on my part.

u/ImmovableMover · 3 pointsr/pens

Okay, sweet. So, one of the cool things about fountain pens is their customization to how you want to write. Do you like writing small and precise? Get an EF or F nib. Do you like cursive-looking writing? Get an italic nub. Do you like sexy line variation? Get a flex nib.

My point is that I would get one of the two most recommended starter fountain pens so that you won't be stuck with an experience you don't like having spent $50 on a design or nib size that doesn't suit you: the Lamy Safari or the Pilot Metropolitan. After the first few pens, you'll have an idea of what you really like in a fountain pen. These pens are both inexpensive, relatively high build quality, and nice writers. I started with a Lamy Safari EF as my first pen and I still use is regularly because it is a nice pen, despite it being inexpensive. But I think you can look around Youtube or Google some reviews on the two and see which one looks more appealing to you. I personally recommend the Lamy Safari because it has a "tripod" grip that helps beginners position the pen so that the nib is in the right orientation. See the Safari here. The Metropolitan is also a nice pen. So again, whatever you think looks cooler.

Fountain pens can be refilled through disposable cartridges or through filling mechanisms that take up ink from a bottle.

My first bottle of ink was Noodler's Black.

And to refill the Safari, I had to buy a converter.

I started using fountain pens around 5 or so months ago, and my bottle of the same ink is still going strong. (Although I have bought tons more other colors. :D).

I wrote a slightly more extensive "beginner fountain pen guide and why you should use fountain pens" comment on another post, and I'll link that here if you want to read it.

u/MrMooMooDandy · 3 pointsr/Austin

Online, the ink I use is on Amazon so I just get it there in recent years.

u/kur1j · 3 pointsr/fountainpens

Any of the inks that are considered "bulletproof" from Noodler's (Noodler's black, 54th Mass. etc.) will not smear (unless they haven't dried). Once a bulletproof black is on some cellulose material (e.g. paper, fibers) it is there for good.

u/CriticalityIncident · 3 pointsr/fountainpens

Noodler's Black is fairly well known for being bleed resistant:

For bleed through I've found that higher quality paper helps more than different inks. I like these A5 Clairefontaines:

u/Blue_Moon_Rabbit · 3 pointsr/elianscript

Its a white board that turns black when you paint water onto its surface. As the water evaporates, the painting fades. Very calm, much zen.

u/pixielady · 3 pointsr/santashelpers

A Buddha Board for sure. Artsy and spiritual - you paint on it with water and it fades away in time.

u/pieranomous · 3 pointsr/languagelearning

I think a "buddha board" might be what you're looking for. There's also a cheaper mini one

u/xGamblex · 3 pointsr/ModelCars

Hi there, well, for 300$ here is what you can get:
First of, the compressor, it's quiet, it's reliable, I've had one for 2 years, still kicking and it's a good deal, 1/5 hp MASTER AIRBRUSH TANK COMPRESSOR , that is the best for the money. Now, if you want an Iwata airbrush, start off with a Neo, this is gonna be your workhorse airbrush, the one you apply basecoats and major workloads with, when you do fnd it, don't pay more than 60$ for it, Iwata Neo, and finally, for detailing jobs like highights or if you wanna get more detailed on your work, you will need a finer needle airbrush, .03 to be exact, following the Iwata series, here is the Iwata Anest, Eclipse with a .03 needle, if you buy all 3 of these, you will have less than 300$ which you cna also spend on quick release adapters for both airbrushes: Quick release x 3, the compressor does come with a hose. Hope this helps, also, might wanna think about using Vallejo and Tamiya, since they are acrylic, they are a lot more forgiving than enamels, but that is my personal opinion.

u/Vonschlippe · 3 pointsr/Gunpla

Don't bother with the tankless models!

I own this guy:

It's quiet as a cat's purr. Less expensive, has a tank (thus no pulsing of air pressure), and because it has a tank it's not on all the time. It's very small and fits inside a gunpla box! Don't bother with tankless models unless space is a big issue!

PS: Plus, it's on -55% off sale right now...

u/Gotama6t6 · 3 pointsr/Gunpla

Master Compressor

I have this one and it has been good so far. I prefer tank as the motor is not continuously running. This is also beneficial as the motor doesn't heat up as quickly which is better for painting and increases the longevity.

u/007A99 · 3 pointsr/modelmakers

You can get a decent, but pretty basic kit for $80 (

I have no experience with that airbrush, so I cannot speak of its quality. My recommendation is to buy the Iwata Neo from Hobby Lobby or Michaels. 50% off coupons are pretty easy to come by, so you could get it for $50-$60.

If you do that, you will need a compressor. The TC-20T ( is a good compressor that is pretty quiet and has a tank.

Personally, I have a Badge 105 Patriot and I just use a noisy Campbell-Hausfield compressor. I just got these for Christmas and am still experimenting with it before I paint a model.

I wish the best of luck to you!

u/RoketLawnChair · 3 pointsr/Warhammer40k

That's what I have. A compressor with a tank makes all the difference and a decent but cheap airbrush to mess with. Plus that stand/cleaning station thing is a life saver. It's so handy.

u/mraletz · 3 pointsr/yeezys
u/550g · 3 pointsr/Watercolor

watercolors LINK

we starting to use it in art schools and continue to use them in art academy. they really are good. no need to dig deeper in more expensive, pro watercolors.

fancy watercolors (i personally love them, but really, basically fo fun, mixed media) LINK

watercolor pad LINK

that's my choice. would highly recommend this producer, really great absorption, thick paper, different formats available. anyway, it's really good.

brushes is really very personal choice, depends on technic and such. I like this one LINK great for miniature work. You can look for some squirrel hair brushes in local store orLINK , they are good for starters and for wet painting.

EDIT. fanart sample where all those stuff used at once :P

u/GoudaMustache · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

Eventually when I cave and get an airbrush I'll be getting the NEO CN Gravity Feed Dual Action Airbrush $58 and the Master Airbrush High Performance Airbrush Air Compressor $66.

u/drunkenjack · 2 pointsr/minipainting

I've got this one from Amazon. Several friends also have it. It works like a champ and is economically priced too.

u/HappyWulf · 2 pointsr/KingdomDeath

Here's a big fat messy shopping list I made for someone a while ago. You might find it useful too. Quickshade Ink Set Warpaints Army Painter Pacer Technology (Zap) Pacer Technology (Zap) Zap-A-Gap Adhesives, 1 oz : General Pencil Company The Masters Brush Cleaner & Preserver 2.5 0z. : Brush Soap
Buy Army Painter Wargame Starter Paint Set - PLUS Promo Undead figure
Buy Rust Oleum 280715 American Accents Ultra Cover 2X Spray Paint, White Primer, 12-Ounce
TEKTON 6655 Needle File Set, 10-Piece
Buy Xacto X3311 N0. 1 Precision Knife With 5 No. 11 Blades 1 X Most Wanted Wargamer Brush Set
Xuron 170-II Micro-Shear Flush Cutter: Wire Cutters 2 X Milliput Standard 2-Part Self Hardening Putty, Yellow/Grey

Edit: Of, and I used this guide for making my Thinner. But I'm going to experiment more, because this is not perfect.

u/smasho1 · 2 pointsr/minipainting

I am clueless with cutters, drills, sculpting-- I can make a snake out of green stuff. But for brushes and paints-- aha! I have your back.

Can you order from Amazon? These aren't CHEAP, quite, but they are really really great and can do just about anything! Link:

Also, these aren't nearly as good as Vallejo or Reaper paints, but they are far more affordable and if you use a wet pallete you can dab them with water for the perfect texture. Also, they mix very well (this is just one of the sets, you can compare others of this or Apple Barrel brands)

u/kolkolkokiri · 2 pointsr/ArtFundamentals

Get the 40% or more off coupon code at Michaels, you can use your phone. See if you can get 40% off all, instead of just one item. Otherwise bring a friend and use it on the expensive items.

  • 15$ to 30$ - Paints like Winsor & Newton or Reeves or Prima I would avoid Artist Loft's paint as I have no experiance but other Michaels stuff is hit or miss. I think cakes is easiest to start with.
  • 2$ - Palette or something to mix on. Dollar Store is probably good enough, otherwise like 5$.
  • 20$ Paper - Canson or Strathmore make good tear off sheets. Make sure it says watercolour. A pad of paper is easier to start with then a bound sketchbook. These are usually on a buy two get one free type sale.
  • 15$ - A brush set or Waterbrush if she travels with it (if you get this get it on amazon its overpriced in store) aim for something soft and labelled student or professioinal. Basically not Crayola.
  • EDIT a WATERPROOF Sharpie.

    Depending on sales you can probably get everything for 50$. You might be able to get under 40$ but it'll be damn hard. The drawing pencils and kneaded erasers are cheapest at an art store where they will be sold loose for a few dollars, however with Christmas coming up also keep an eye out for sketching sets as they will use a like 5.99$ one to get all the art students back in stores and tempt them with other things
u/G0ATLY · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Oh goodness, if you like ink you muuuust try Inktense blocks!! There is a 24 set with WHITE! I know it's not "traditional" to have white, but I love em! They go on dry, then add the water OR you can premix with water and use the ink that way. Once it is wet and has dried. You can go over it again with out worry the under layer will smear!! (Long as all the dry portions were wet at some point and dried.) IT IS AWESOME!

The company Derwent also has a set of Inktense pencils that work the same way, and keep your hands somewhat cleaner.

Also you can set Inktense on fabric, so designing on shirts, quilts and what have you is just eaaasy! There are a LOT of ways to use these! Printmaking, watercolors, stamping, inking, washes!~ Add to gesso or Mod Podge for a colored glaze! Lots of things really... It can cater to the professionals, amateurs and beginners!

There is also a set of water pens that you may be interested in, with trying these. I have always used brushes though, with water.. Or I wet the brush, and just dab it on the lil block its self. Or chip off a lil piece of color and add water to it on a little pallet. (Piece of plastic lol.)

Question: Can the name be computerized, long as it is drawn? Aka mouse/tablet?

u/maxjooce · 2 pointsr/bulletjournal

I currently use kuretake watercolors with these brush pens and I think they’re pretty solid. It’s not a huge investment and I think they’re a good starter pack for casual water colorists.

I highly also recommend clipping your pages and having maybe a hair dryer handy so your pages don’t warp from getting too wet.

u/-Skadi · 2 pointsr/Wishlist

Pentel Arts Aquash Water Brush Assorted Tips, Pack of 3

You could put just plain water, diluted watercolor paint, ink etc.. in them.

Edit: just noticed /u/Blanchetastic posted a similar item, hers cost less though.

u/shth0mas · 2 pointsr/notebooks

Like this

Pentel Arts Aquash Water Brush Assorted Tips, Pack of 3 (FRHBFMBP3)

u/aspophilia · 2 pointsr/Watercolor

I’m new as well but I’ve done lots (maybe too much) research. What is your budget? From what I understand Windsor & Newton Cotman paints are a good student/hobby grade paint. They sell them in nifty little 12 pan kits that pretty much provide all the colors you need to make good mixes.

Here is a travel set for about $13:
Winsor & Newton Cotman Water Colour Sketchers Pocket Box

If you are willing to spend a little more on paint for artist grade I hear excellent things about these: St Petersburg White Nights Watercolour : NEW 12 Pan Set

I’ve seen these really cool portable brushes: High-end art travel painting brush Synthetic Sable Round Hair Short Handle Brush for Acrylic Oil and watercolor painting 3Pcs

Or you can use a water brush: Pentel Arts Aquash Water Brush Assorted Tips, Pack of 3 (FRHBFMBP3)

As for Paper, I really want one of these myself: Moleskine Watercolor Album Sketchbook - 5"x8" (Spanish Edition)

I hope this helps! :)

u/NOSETACKLE · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

I airbrushed in a tiny apartment for a year before I moved somewhere larger. I used this booth ( which you can fold up when not in use. Just pop that hose out a window and you're golden.

The thing that actually took up more space than the airbrushing gear itself was my parts on alligator clips while I was building a kit.

u/brannana · 2 pointsr/minipainting

One of these:

Basically an open box with an exhaust fan that draws any overspray through an air filter and exhausts it somewhere else, usually a window. I don't bother with the exhaust on mine, though I do watch where the exhaust hits the wall to see how much, if any, paint gets through.

u/Ehur444444 · 2 pointsr/airbrush

Thank you very much for your reply, I appreciate it.

If I may just confirm, is the spray booth that you have and you feel it does well at grabbing all the particulate/dust?

Thank you again, have a great day.

u/YoJimGo · 2 pointsr/modelmakers

Master Airbrush Portable Hobby Airbrush Craft Spray Booth (without Optional LED Lighting) for Painting All Art, Cake, Craft, Hobby, Nails, T-shirts &

u/Station28 · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

one of these is what i use

u/Balmong7 · 2 pointsr/minipainting

Here you go

edit: I know you probably wanted a cheap cardboard box solution. But paint fumes in doors aren't something to play around with.

u/Ghoda · 2 pointsr/modelmakers

My compressor recently died and I was looking for a cheaper one as well. The guy at my local hobby shop talked me into a Paasche D500SR which was a bit more than I wanted to spend but I am extremely happy with it. Very quiet and solid flow. You can probably find one on Amazon for about $120

You can also get portable spray booths with exhaust hoses as well, very handy and quick to set up

u/Flyingswami · 2 pointsr/Warhammer40k

Airbrush Booth - You really shouldn't breath in the fumes. If you are painting indoors, you should use something like this to capture and filter the overspray/fumes. This is in addition to wearing a mask. You will see people in youtube tutorials not wearing masks and not using a booth - it's really bad practice if you care about your brain cells. I like the one below, but the fan is louder than the compressor.

80$ on Amazon®-Portable-Airbrush-Painting/dp/B00BMUH8L6?ie=UTF8&ref_=pe_385040_128020140_TE_3p_dp_1

$20- Paint mask/respirator - See notes above. I use one designed for spray painting.

Airbrush - I recommend starting cheap until you get a hang of it. It's easy to damage parts. It's been a while since I've researched, so I apologize for having forgotten the terms. You want an airbrush that is fed from a cup on top (gravity fed?), a trigger to control the air separately from the paint (maybe called dual action?), and needles .2 to .5mm. This airbrush came with a quick connect (to snap on and off of the compressor hose), which is a big convenience. They are cheap if you need to buy separately.

$10Airbrush cleaner fluid and brushes - to flush the airbrush and clean it after use.

$10- Airbrush cleaning pot - You spray cleaner and excess paint into this.

90$ - Compressor with Tank - The separate tank is key, it will maintain constant pressure very well and provide good steady flow. This one is pretty quiet as compressors go, but still noisy enough that you need to work behind a closed door.

$10 - Airbrush hose-

All in, it cost me $250 before paint.

u/smoothturbo · 2 pointsr/modelmakers

I bought this.


u/o0BlackDragon0o · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

Looks great! I recommend getting a panel line marker, they are so cheap but make such a massive difference to a kit. Welcome to the hobby :)

u/Stug_lyfe · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

Gives more of a natural look on light colored armor plates, black gives more of a classic cartoon look. Brown is used for warm colors and sometimes zeon/zaft/etc suits. You are looking for something called a "fine tip gundam marker", You can get them online. There is also something called "panel line accent" which is applied with a brush and some people feel gives a more natural look, I would reccomend starting with the marker, as its easier to learn with. Keep a qtip around when using it incase your hand slips. any residue clears up with a bit of rubbing alchohol, dont use nail polish remover, it can melt plastic.

If you are going for 30 dollar tamiyas just drop the extra 5 dollars and get these, they come with free shipping on your whole order and tax free.

They also carry sanding sticks

u/fartbringer · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

I use these:

I use a black for parts that are molded in a dark color, and a grey for things that are much lighter. They're really easy to use, and you don't have to be precise with them. Keep some q-tips and a bit of rubbing alcohol handy, though. Just set the ink into the panel line in as many passes as you fee is needed. Let it dry for just a little bit, then gently flick over the line using the q-tip. Don't even push down that hard, just gently stroke over the area. This will help spread ink away from the line, if not pick it up entirely. Any excess can be rubbed off using another q-tip with a very modest amount of rubbing alcohol on it. It'll come right up and leave your lines filled.

There's a lot of tutorials on youtube, and various methods (I've heard a lot that panel washing works best, but haven't tried it), but that's how I do mine and I'm pleased with the results.

I would suggest buying a really cheap HG kit that you can screw around on, test a bunch of different techniques and see what works best for you. That way if you totally screw up you won't be out of a lot of money.

edit: Also, there's alternatives to these pens. I used some sakura microns I had laying around on my first HG and it looked good, but buying a set of those is going to be more expensive in the long run than getting gundam pens. I've seen some individual very fine point pens at Michaels for about a buck or two, but I've not yet tried them. They seem like they can get the job done, though.

u/Batgirl_III · 2 pointsr/gaslandsplayers

Panel lining. Use a very fine-tip paint marker, like this; brush on inks; or even really, really, really thinned down paints. Use it to pick out the separations between the toy vehicle's molded in body panels, hatches, and doors. Really helps make them "pop."

u/dylan227 · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

You might want to get a black thin tip gundam marker to fill in the lines. Other tools that are helpful are a pair of side cutters for cutting parts off the runners, and some x-acto knifes and sandpaper to get rid of the nubs left from cutting the pieces out. I usually use 800+ grit. A flat top coat can be sprayed on to remove the shine from the kit, and give it a more model like look than something that looks like a toy. Hope this is helpful!

u/crazypipo · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

You have three options for panel line;

  1. Gundam Marker. Basically a fine point pen. The result is always a thick line, but can be easily clean up with just plain q-tip (or dip in a bit of rubbing alcohol for even easier cleanse). Great for filling in black/dark details. You can also use other fine point pens as a substitute.

  2. Gundam Marker, pour type. Different mixture of ink. Dab on to panel lines and ink will just run along the line. Much easier to use than regular fine point. Much easier to use with 1/144 models which have smaller lines. Cleanup with rubbing alcohol or enamel thinner (or even your finger if you are lazy). This can eats up paint layer if you paint your model and don't gloss coat before apply the marker.

  3. Tamiya's Panel Line Accent. Best of all IMO. One bottle last months...of years! Works very similar to the pour type, but better. Clean up with enamel thinner.


    Some people use pencil, but I don't find that method to be efficient. You can also mix your own paint but why bother when there is already a pre-mixed solutions.
u/SoullessSin · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

I use this with a respirator in my second bedroom.

u/arkanoid2520 · 2 pointsr/Gunpla
u/Tweakers · 2 pointsr/modelmakers

Saw this on Amazon recently: Portable Hobby Airbrush Spray Booth with LED Lighting Looks basic but has the necessary components as far as I can tell.

u/Jackdoesderp · 2 pointsr/Warhammer

Miniac is pretty good with these sorts of things, and I used his videos to figure out my first Airbrush.

[Video talking about various good quality airbrushes.] (

Video on how to start with an Airbrush.

Honestly, that compressor is good, but the Master's airbrushes aren't great. A really good airbrush for starters is the Badger Patriot 105. It's got very few moving parts, lots of tutorials on how to use and clean it, and does the job for a decent price.

Badger Patriot 105

Master's Compressor with good reviews

For both, it's about 200$.

I'd also look into the Master's Painting Hood (Link).

I'm willing to answer any questions on what shit to buy, so feel free to ask.

u/PowderedToastMaaaann · 2 pointsr/Warhammer40k

I have one of these, mostly for airbrushing but I have used it with spray cans a couple of times.

u/Kisada11 · 2 pointsr/Warhammer40k

If you have a window you can vent out of then [this works well](Master Airbrush Brand Lighted Portable Hobby Airbrush Spray Booth with LED Lighting for Painting All Art, Cake, Craft, Hobby, Nails, T-shirts & More. Includes 6 Foot Exhaust Extension Hose

I have this set up and it vents fine.

u/solavi · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

It's this one on amazon I like it a lot for the price.

u/pleasesteponmesinb · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

Hey team, Does anyone have experience with This paint booth? Was considering going diy but I’ve found this for $150 nzd and would end up costing more to build my own I think.

u/nbapat43 · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

This is the tank I got. And this is the airbrush I got. So far they have been working well (only airbrushing for a month). Check out the company's Amazon store or their website for some cheaper item that they might have. Hope it helps.

u/Ojrobot · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

There really are no pros of tankless compressor compared to one with a tank. A tankless one will run hotter and louder because it has to constantly run in order to maintain air pressure. The airflow is also more irregular which makes detail work with a airbrush much more annoying.

The first link is a airbrush ready compressor with a tank that should do what you need it to. The second is compressor that would need some fittings, hose, and moisture trap in order to work with airbrushing. The second one has the advantage of being a bigger tank and more horsepower so it would have to turn on for shorter amounts of time to fill the tank and you can go longer with the bigger tank before the compressor has to kick in again.

u/nowlan19 · 2 pointsr/minipainting

1000x this.

Nothing will piss you off more than being in the middle of laying down a coat of perfectly thinned paint and having to completely stop because your can is empty.

Plus you can't really regulate airflow accurately with a can, and as you use it the pressure will fall.

I just got this for christmas:

Its so much better than the $30 tankless Harbor Freight airbrush compressor I was using.

u/---Deafz---- · 2 pointsr/modelmakers

I bought this ONE
about 4 months ago and have built about 6 kits with it and it has performed great.

u/calder87 · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

That unit will work, but a bunch of manufacturers make near-identical compressors and some are cheaper, like this one.


Some reviews note poor quality on the fitting between the air tank and the water trap/regulator assembly, but that hasn't been my experience. Maybe quality control has improved since those reviews, or maybe I just got lucky. Your mileage may very.

u/zombcakes · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

Without knowing the condition of the brushes/compressor, you can get a new compressor and brush for about the same price. Honestly starting out it would probably be more confusing to have all those brushes at your disposal instead of becoming proficient with one.


Compressor with tank - $70

Badger 105 brush - - $78

Cleaning kit - $14

Total new (minus tax) - $162

u/Urzawrym · 2 pointsr/airbrush

For your budget I'll go with a Badger Patriot 105 Arrow, it's so easy to use and clean and the Arrow will give you a fine line if needed. A cheap compressor with a tank and a quick connect and you're good to go !

Badger Patriot Arrow :

Quick connect Badger for all hose :

Cheap Compressor :

With airbrush cleaner and thinner, and a cleaner pot, I think I fit your budget.... You can use the standard Badger Patriot 105 but the needle is .75mm instead of .5mm so you get less fines lines

u/Octokat · 2 pointsr/ageofsigmar

The problem with that kind of compressors are that they don't give out a stable amount of air. That means it may start spitting paint instead of giving a nice constant flow of air/paint.
You're going to get all sorts of opinions. Ones will say they work well, some others (like me), would recommend something with an air tank.

Something like that will do the work, it will last you very long if treated correctly and in the long run will save you some money. If you buy the cheap one, even if you only use it for priming and base coating, you will want to get a better one very soon.

In the end, the choice is yours, of course :)

u/trashcanreddit · 2 pointsr/airbrush

thats a great starter airbrush and should be perfect as a workhorse.

you just need a basic airbrush compressor to start with. the cost goes up the more quiet the compressor is while building up pressure.

i use this kit

the hose it comes with should work with the neo.

u/Models_n_stuff · 2 pointsr/modelmakers

You can get a tankless one .

It runs near constantly and can heat up. They are not ideal, but can do the trick for small jobs. I tend to work on my models for an entire day once a week, so I have one with a 3L tank.

If you got the super cheapie one there for $60 you could get the Badger 105 and you would probably have a little bit left over.

There is also this one. It is cheaper, so I really can’t speak to it’s quality.

u/redmaxwell · 2 pointsr/minipainting

My wife got me [these] ( for my birthday and I really like them. But I also use other brushes I've picked up, just general craft painting ones.

Edit: craft painting ones for painting larger areas and models.

u/PersonPersona · 2 pointsr/Warhammer

Oh sorry for not being clear. I meant the brushes you linked to in your post. These guys: brushes

u/trippingjimmi · 2 pointsr/bikesgonewild

Ya man. I absolutely love white tire lettering. Did it on my last bike as well. Looks great in person. Extremely time consuming and strenuous though, to do well. Easier with the tires off the bike of course.

What you need is this Sharpie OIL BASED paint marker. Last basically all season and then some. Very durable

u/Xerokine · 2 pointsr/Charger

Sharpie oil-based paint:


I got 4 of them, but two covered the tires pretty well with about 3 coats each.

u/texastoasterboy · 2 pointsr/Sneakers

Here is the link to the pen I used. It's oil based so it won't come off with water.

u/M3TLH3D · 2 pointsr/Warhammer40k

This particular model might be done already. From what I can see you do not use a wet palette, washes or do highlights. Time to grab another model and once you get more comfortable with your skills you can return to this guy and fix him up.

  1. Get/make and use a wet palette and Thin Those Paints!:
  2. get/make some washes. GW have a fantastic set of washes right now. Experiment with the them until you get the desired effect. People tend to coat their entire model with the wash which works in a few circumstances but mostly makes models look muddy. Instead focus on the recesses of the model. For this color red, GWs Agrax Earthshade looks good as a shadow color for red armor.
  3. Get a nice 00 or 000 Kolinsky-Sable brush for highlighting and don't guzzle coffee before you practice. Keep your brushes clean by using this:
  4. Metallics look best in multiple, thin layers. Start with a deeper metallic and work up to gold with a gold/silver super highlight. For gold I use bronze basecoat, basic gold, sepia wash, highlight basic gold again and finally a 50/50 gold/silver for top edge highlights.

    As a basic rule for painting minis, you should paint in multiple, thin layers always starting with a darker color than the final one you wish to achieve, building up to the highlights. Painting this way gives you more control over the final result but is of course time consuming. Of course there are always exceptions to the rule. Part of the hobby!

    Good luck fellow Heretic!
u/dripless_cactus · 2 pointsr/minipainting

I'm excited for you!

I swipe it around in brush cleaner.
It usually seems to get off some color that didn't get rinsed in the water.

u/raging_gentleman · 2 pointsr/ArcadiaQuest

Thanks :) The smallest brush I used on these is a 2/0, it's important to have a really good point though. I use Winsor and Newton series 7. I usually start with a GW standard size brush for basecoating the larger areas and then use a size 0 for the bulk of the work, finish some minor details and the eyes with the 2/0.

The higher quality brushes just last a bit longer by keeping a point a little better. It's important to take good care of them though so that they can last. Rinse them really well, be careful not to let paint get into the ferrule, and I use this stuff every once in a while:

I think the process of doing eyes is the key, and it really takes patience. It took me a long time to figure out a good way for me to get it to look good. Elizabeth's Sarya tutorial ( is pretty much the way I do it, although I do the black pupil before i do the highlighting of the iris, don't think that matters much.

Haha yeah no tricks for the bases. I use the standard size brush to put on the gray, then put on some spots of red/ purple/ yellow for the other color stones, then use the 2/0 brush to draw in some lines.

u/Capraviridae · 2 pointsr/Warhammer40k

The big ones at least look good. The small ones can be ruined quickly, but this is true with all cheap brushes, basically. So if they are not expensive, I'd say go for it. Especially if you are just starting to learn how to paint miniatures, it's much better to get lots of cheap brushes and only once you have a good grasp of the basics you should start checking the more expensive ones (Winsor & Newton, Raphael etc.).

The most important thing with brush care is, as it was already said in another comment, never let paint dry on your brushes. So when painting, stop every now and then and clean your brush. This can be surprisingly difficult as you could be in the zone while painting and don't want to stop, but you should. Properly clean the brush and then dry it by dragging it against a paper towel while turning the brush, so that you will end up with nice sharp shape. Diluting your paints helps with this, too.

Never "load" your brush with paint so that it reaches all the way to the metal thingy (can't remember the actual name). If you load your brush too full and the paint dries, the bristles in your brush will be pointing every direction and this will ruin the brush as it is very difficult to clean it afterwards.

Store the brushes in a mug or similar holder and make sure the brush end points upwards. This will help to keep the brush sharp.

At some point I would advice you to buy some brush cleaning agent specifically designed for the job. I and many others use the Master's Brush Cleaner and Preserver, but any soap designed for brush cleaning will do.

That's all I can think of now, but it should get you started. You can also try Youtube for brush care tips by non-miniature painters. Just make sure they use acrylic paints. Good luck!

u/AkimboGogurts · 2 pointsr/Warhammer

I personally use Raphael Sable Kolinsky Brushes, sizes from about 0 to 2 depending on what I'm working on. They're fairly priced for their quality and you can definitely feel the difference between this and a cheap brush when painting.

If you make an investment in some nice brushes that you get something to clean them with and keep them in top form. Personally I use the Master's Brush Cleaner.

u/thurn_und_taxis · 2 pointsr/SkincareAddiction

Would it be a terrible idea to use a paintbrush cleaning soap like this one? It’s supposed to be “mild” but I think that refers more to the brush than to whatever is left in the brush after you wash it. I just like these because they’re a really convenient shape for cleaning brushes. (Also I obviously wouldn’t use the same one I use for paints.)

u/Bazylik · 2 pointsr/minipainting
u/Nova_Imperator · 2 pointsr/Warhammer40k

Dang that looks way better than my first models haha.


Though, I do have advice. I would recommend trying out dry brushing in small layers (bunch of youtube vids on how to do that). What I typically do is dry brush abbadon black as a base coat of sorts, 2-4 coats will do, and then adding mephiston red in thin layers (2-5 will do). It may be overkill but I personally like it that way.

This way, you won't have clumps of paint over your models, nor will there be many brush marks.


Note: this technique works well if you get a specific dry brushing brush thing. GW sells one as well and it works pretty well :D



Also, get a brush soap. An absalute neccessity if you want your brushes to work for the years to come.



Hope this helps and Emperor bless! FOR SANGUINIUS!!


Edit: had to add stuff and remove [REDACTED]



u/Donny_Ozymandias · 2 pointsr/minipainting

Yeah, I would recommend some decent synthetics while you're still learning the ropes. When you're a beginner, you can be unintentionally rough on your brushes and synthetics are cheap + fairly reliable, depending on what you get. Privateer Press makes some good ones: . Also, get some of this stuff, it will greatly extend the lifespan of your brushes: . Trust me, you'll want to learn good brush care early on, it'll be a lifesaver.

Once you've been at it a while, I would actually recommend the Winsor and Newton Series 7 line of brushes instead of those miniature brushes. If you're going to buy a Kolinsky sable brush, I would recommend a full sized one like the Series 7, which is the industry standard. The problem with those miniature brushes is like you said: they have a smaller tip and don't hold as much paint, which means more trips to the pot.

u/Nafarious · 2 pointsr/Warmachine

Ahh I see that stands for Convergance now. Hold on let me pull that up. Jesus all of those are metallics aren't they. I am very sorry for you. Especially if this is your first time painting. What is your idea of how you want to paint them. At some point you will need a few other non metalic base colors I think. But that it up to you.

Now there are two things you need to know for metalic paints.

  1. They don't water down the same and you have to be very careful. The way I do it is get a brush load, twirl the brush against your pallet, dip it into the water and then go at it. That should be enough water on your brush to thin it enough. However if you feel that the metalics are sliding all over the place and not being even, then go for lighter coats and no watering down.

  2. Metalics have little pieces of metal and metal flakings in them. This means that when using these paints some of that will be left on the brush and in the water. This means you will need two separate water cups for when you are painting with metalics and with just basic acrylics. This also means that there will be some of this residue on the brush. I suggest that if you want to get some nice brushes and have them last longer you will want to pick up some brush cleaner. This is the shit, and if any of you other painters are reading this. Get this thing. It will keep your brushes a lot nicer and keep them working a lot longer.

    So again I hope this helps, and if you have any questions feel free to PM me or just comment back.
u/mitten_native · 2 pointsr/MakeupAddiction

If you have an art store near you (I went to Blick), go and get The Masters Brush Cleaner and Preserver! It was made to gently clean art brushes (even oil paint) and it works amazingly well. It's like $6 for a 1 oz solid - they also come in larger tubs but I wanted to make sure I liked it before committing- and it's AMAZING. The makeup just melts off the brushes, they get so nice and soft after washing and it has a nice lemony scent!!
Link for the lazy :)
General Pencil Company The Masters Brush Cleaner & Preserver 1 Oz.

u/Blackbird0084 · 2 pointsr/minipainting

Personally, I find this as a great "thank you" for fellow mini painters, as it's relatively cheap and has been something that the two people (massive numbers here...) Who I know, that paint, have never heard of.

Paints- as above- down to your choice. I do like gw paints but the pots are shite and I find there's a lot of wastage, which isn't any fault of mine. That said, it's probably been designed that way so that gw can milk more revenue out of us. I have a lot of love for the Vallejo range, I find their textured stuff to be far better, and far more varied than the gw range. To be honest I'm not a big fan of the army painter range, but do use a few of their rattle cans.

Brushes- again, you'll pay through the arse for gw products.. (notice a theme?). I understand a number of pro painters (Sam Lenz springs to mind) who use pretty "standard" cheap brushes to get phenomenal results.

If you have a look on YouTube there's a huge amount of channels dedicated to the hobby and offering detailed analysis of paint brands, brushes etc. Miniac is a great start.

Hope this helps, just my two pence :)

u/BECKSTERRRR · 2 pointsr/MakeupAddiction

This stuff? Is that okay to use on something you're going to put on your face? It's so cheap but I'm afraid of it because it says it's for paint brushes. :s

u/Linxysnacks · 2 pointsr/Warhammer40k

At the end of an evening of painting I will dampen the brush I've been using in clean water (not the cup of water I have been using while painting, thus full of paint and potentially metallic flakes) and brush back and forth in my little cup of brush soap. Looks like this. Then rinse in clean water. Wipe off moisture on paper towel. Restore the tip of the brush by dragging it along towel or crease in the palm of your hand while rotating the brush. Replace the brush cap and store the brush vertically if possible, bristles down. Once a month, take a very tiny amount of hair conditioner (not shampoo/conditioner combo), brush the bristles in it for a bit to work it in, leave it sit for a minute or two. Rinse and store. If you do that, the brush will last a huge amount of time. Also don't use your best brush for dry brushing, washes, or applying the GW technical paints. Dry brushing is punishing to the tip of the brush, washes will get into the ferule (where the bristles are attached) and when it dries it forces the bristles apart, and technical paint typically has things in it that, like dry brushing, are just hard on the bristles. I would recommend cheap nylons for these uses.

When you dip a brush in a water pot, and I know this sounds excessive, you should avoid having it touch the bottom of the container or banging it into the sides. The bottom can do a lot of damage, the sides less so. I try to swish the brush around when it's a brush I care about. Crap brushes I'll bang them into the side, scrape the bottom.

Brush brands I use are Raphael, but I'm buying some Windsor & Newton Series 7 Miniatures today. There are a bunch of quality brands though. Windsor & Newton are very well respected.

Best of luck in your endeavors! Should you have more questions, need advice, really anything... let me know. I really enjoy passing on what I've learned. I've made mistakes so you don't have to!

u/youresayingitwang · 2 pointsr/MakeupAddiction

I haven't tried it yet myself (I've still got quite a ways to go on my BB solid cleanser) but someone posted this a couple of weeks ago as an alternative -- maybe you can give it a shot if baby shampoo doesn't end up working as well as you'd like!

u/n33d_kaffeen · 2 pointsr/Warhammer40k this is the brush cleaner I use. I get my brush wet and then "paint" the cleaner, getting it mushy, and then massage my brushes and rinse a couple times. Helps me a lot. For brushes, Michael's is a good resource or some place local to you. Don't be afraid to spend 5-10 dollars on a single brush. Like OP said a no 1 and no 00 are good, I also like to get a filbert style, no 4 I think, maybe 6, for base coating and wider models like vehicles.

u/XenophonTheAthenian · 2 pointsr/modelmakers

I can't remember if this is the compressor I have or not, but there's a ton of clones just like it at varying price ranges. Whichever clone I've got has served me pretty well

u/BT9154 · 2 pointsr/resinkits

If you don't want to invest a huge sum up front then as /u/TheRealMacLeod said you can pick up a normal $100 compressor & airbrush kit on amazon. I myself have been using a $100ish compressor with an air tank and $20 Chinese import gravity fed dual action air brush for my whole air brush career and if you look through my post history a cheap airbrush is not a deal breaker. One thing I learned is you have to take care of the airbrush so an end of session cleaning routine is a must for any airbrush to give good results.

This is what I use



u/Dr_Von_Spaceman · 2 pointsr/modelmakers

The airbrush will be complete, and the compressor will be complete, and with any luck the airbrush will include an air hose. Those are pretty much the only things you need to get going. My airbrush (a Paasche) did not include the hose, but I didn't get a "complete package" deal either.

You can use any compressed air source - pancake compressor or industrial strength Ingersoll-Rand diesel-powered air compressor. However, I suggest getting a dedicated airbrushing compressor. I've got a cheap Harbor Freight pancake compressor for inflating tires and it is loud as sin. My TC-20T clone, on the other hand, I can use in the house without annoying people even at night. This compressor is well worth the modest amount of money. A tankless version is also available, but the tanked version was recommended to me and I've enjoyed it.

For what it's worth, I live in a 2-bedroom duplex. My hobby space is against the shared wall with the other unit. The neighbors have said they have never heard it. If I close the hobby room door, you can't hear the compressor in the hallway.

u/Currix · 2 pointsr/OOAKDOLLS

First of all, whatever you choose, make sure it's double action and gravity fed.

A couple of months ago I bought my first airbrush kit.

After A LOT of research, I decided to go for an Iwata Neo CN airbrush. It's great quality and reliable, as all Iwata products are, but still more economic, which makes it great for beginners. It comes with two interchangeable cups in two sizes, which I find very practical.
With proper cleaning and maintenance, it should last a long, long time. So far, mine has been a delight to use.
It's around 55 USD on Amazon.

In my case, I preferred buying from a known, quality brand. I'm not saying the more inexpensive chinese airbrushes can't get the job done, but I'm very meticulous with my works and I'd rather minimize the chance of an unexpected failure.

Paasche is another well-known airbrush brand. I found this kit which might also fit your criteria.

One strong suggestion: do not go cheap on the compressor. It's the motor that will power whichever airbrush/es you decide to get, so it's important that it's good. I'm not telling you to buy the most expensive ones, of course, but to avoid the cheaper, smaller ones.

I recommend a compressor with a tank. The tank helps store air at the desired pressure, avoiding pulsations in the air flow. This also allows the piston to only start when the pressure drops below a certain point, saving energy and piston life, while avoiding overheating and constant noise. Additionally, the tank helps condense the humidity of the air in it (it sinks to the bottom and can be emptied), thus decreasing the risk of water droplets suddenly coming out of the airbrush (getting an additional water/humidity trap also helps).

Here is an example of one such compressor (it looks bigger than it is haha).
There might be cheaper ones; just make sure to check the reviews thoroughly to check for possible common issues, and to make sure the company provides customer support.

No matter what you buy, maintenance is key. Learn how to clean your airbrush. Make sure you're using the correct cleaning product (for instance, it's not recommended to clean certain varnishes with alcohol, as they get sticky and it makes it harder to remove from the airbrush). Clean it as soon as possible; some materials dry way faster than others, so look into that. If you're not going to use the airbrush for a long time, applying some airbrush lube on the needle is a good idea.
Cleaning it is fast and easy once you get used to it.

Sorry for the long comment, and I hope it helped in any way! :)

There's lots of articles and videos online, too; just Google things like "Good airbrush for beginners" and "How to choose an airbrush".

*Edited because typos, and a formatting fail 🤦🏻‍♀️

u/GenghisSwann · 2 pointsr/modelmakers

Yeah, I do live in the US, here is the compressor

u/Gerwalkun · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

I use a similar model to this one from the buying guide. This is definitely a bigger option, but I feel like it won't clutter up even a small room. It's about the size of 2 shoeboxes stacked on top of each other and smaller than a PC tower.

u/Licentious_Cad · 2 pointsr/Warhammer

Of course; you can generally break compressors into 2 broad categories, tank and tank-less. Because you're probably going to be working on precise projects for long periods you'll ideally want a compressor with a tank. Tank-less compressors can have fluctuations in air pressure that can mess with your painting. This is a good compressor, it's the one I own. You can also get it bundled with an Iwata HP-CS. It does run a bit hot, so be careful handling it after working for a long period, or take regular breaks (something you should probably do either way)

If that's a bit too expensive, wait for a local hobby story to have one of those "1/2 off one item" coupons, or shop around. You just want a tanked compressor and a braided hose. Just make sure that the hose is compatible withe the compressor and the brush. The connector for the HP-CS is 1/8". Tanks will vary, the one linked above has a 1/4" connector. So you'd either need a symmetrical hose, and an adapter, or an asymmetrical hose.

u/YammerEnt · 2 pointsr/minipainting

Get an airbrush. Nothing fancy is really needed, just something that works. I used a cheaper airbrush for a long time before I felt I needed an upgrade. I started with this brush: and this compressor: I still use that compressor, and now use this brush:

edit: I would also point out that this was my first model that I had even attempted this sort of shading on. It turned out well, but I got a lot of my inspiration and technique from this guy:

u/wwbubba0069 · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Something like this for a budget beginner.

I prefer the Iwata Neo. Its dual action gravity feed

Then you need a compressor with an air regulator.

u/NvBlaze · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

Depends on your budget, I'd recommend getting quality tools from the get go, if you can afford them.

Decent starting setup would be TC-20T compressor (or equivalent, there's a bunch of similar compressors coming from the same chinese factory) and either Neo for Iwata, Badger Patriot 105 or H&S Ultra. All of them offer good performance and will last you quite a while. Personally, I'd go for Ultra simply for the ease of maintenance.

If you're on a really tight budget, you can look for some cheap chinese kit. Not the highest quality, but it'll do well enough as a learning tool.

u/carlouws · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

You can hookup any airbrush to a compressed air can. It is never recommended for extensive modeling due to pulsation. You may be prone to pressure-loss while you paint and whatnot. The cheapest you can go is a $70-$100 compressor and a $40-$60 airbrush (Iwata Neo). 8 Dollar colors seems pretty expensive when mr.color bottles go for $2-$3 a bottle that when thinned goes a long way.

u/frewtlupes · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

Do you have any in mind? I haven't used it myself but I'm planning on getting my partner an Iwata Neo CN for christmas as her first starter airbrush- .35mm nozzle, two different gravity cup sizes, dual action and a price point of ~60USD make it seem like a phenomenal choice for a first go!

u/tehchosenjuan · 2 pointsr/modelmakers

The badger is great for the detail work you said you want to do and I would recommend it, since it is a detail oriented brush, the nozzle and color cup size make base coating, priming, and varnishing more difficult, you would be better off getting the eclipse or this to start out and then the badger for the detail work

u/Oarlock · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

It all depends. Expect to drop somewhere between 150-300 dollars on all the equipment for airbrushing. Think hard about whether or not you want to drop that cash on that instead of a bunch of new kits.

If you do want to get into airbrushing, these are usually recommended as starting things.

The NEO Iwata

This is the airbrush I use. I like it, but have never used a different one.

Air Compressor

If you want your compressor to be quiet, you will want a tank. They hold air in a tank so it wont constantly be running and makin noise.

u/animerb · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

the NEO CN is a great, cheap, gravity feed, dual action brush. A little more money than what you were looking to spend. But from what I've seen, it's just about the best value as far as budget airbrushes go. If you live near a hobby lobby you could probably use one of their aewsome coupons on it. And no matter what you go with, you'll need a compressor too.

u/acidentalmispelling · 2 pointsr/DnD

You know what, that's actually a good map! It's pretty clear and represents a good start.

/r/mapmaking is a good place to look around, and there's even helpful threads popping up all the time. If you decide to get more serious about making maps, I'd recommend a Wacom tablet for drawing on a computer. You can use free tools like GIMP or Krita. Of course you can use a mouse with these, but pen & tablet is easier.

If sticking to regular paper, get something like these. Good pens of different thicknesses. If you can express terrain using only "textures" in black & white (here is an example I found on /r/mapmaking), you can really make it pop once you start adding color!

Biggest tip is to just keep at it. And don't be afraid to re-do things over and over to try out different styles.

u/ItsMopy · 2 pointsr/learntodraw

Gotcha, in that case, here's a few well worth adding to any collection if it's not too late:

Bic Soft Feel Medium Easy to control when pushing softly, reliable ink flow. Great for light lines and construction. The tip does displace by about a mm when you press hard, so it makes dark lines more difficult to reliably create.

Zebra Z-Grip Max Harder to control for lighter lines as the ink flows a little too well. The tip has no displacement though, which means darker lines are much easier to create reliably compared to the bic.

Zebra Z-Grip Flight aka Z-Grip Smooth in the UK. Similar to the Max, no nib displacement, but the ink flows so freely, this is not something to be used for light construction. Very smooth if you like that sort of thing.

The cheap crystal and disposable ballpoints you find all around are OK, but the ink flow is unreliable. On rough paper, they generally have stable nibs and can produce almost pencil-like lines, but they stop and start working so often, it can be annoying.

Non-Ballpoint honorable mentions:

Pilot Hi-Tec C 0.3 - Free flowing hybrid pen. No variation in line-weight, and no going back. Unforgiving but fun when you're searching for ideas and not caring about the final quality.

Pilot G-Tec C4 0.4 - As above, but the 0.1mm difference is significant. Usually used to add line weight to sketches done in the 0.3.

Staedler Pigment Liners - Unfortunately mistaken to be 'markers' because people keep calling them that. Smooth and reliable ink flow with the hard nib. Much thicker and less scratchy than the Hi-Tecs, and far less forgiving. Worth getting a whole set as preferences will vary and the size difference between each is significant. Restrictive as they don't work well at shallow angles, but on the plus side, you can marker over them.

Most importantly, if you're going to be drawing using ballpoints, make sure to accompany it with toothy/rough paper. The paper is 80% of it imo. Smooth stuff just doesn't cut it with ballpoints if you want a consistently high level of control over line weights.

There are lots more of course, but these are my experiences so far.

Good luck!

u/AGamerDraws · 2 pointsr/Art

It's a staedtler pigment liner. They come in packs from 0.05 to 0.8. I use them all the time, perfect for tiny details

u/Hooblar · 2 pointsr/EDC

Ever look into getting something more like a pigment pen? I admit, I'm a Pilot G2 guy myself so I am interested in seeing what recommendations there.

Something like the Staedtler or Sakura is what I am referring to. They have a bit more bleed-through if you are writing on standard A4 paper, but when I've had the pleasure of using those types of instruments I am never disappointed.

u/skieblue · 2 pointsr/minipainting

You might try Master's Brush Cleaner (some of the liquid brush repair fluids might work as well, try looking for the one from Winsor & Newton) and see if that works; however I wouldn't count on it.

It's quite personal (some very good painters I know use cheap nylon or Citadel brushes exclusively and replace as needed), but I would say that buying a W&N S7 brush was a revelation for me.

u/adreamdefied · 2 pointsr/Makeup


It may be cheaper if you go to an actual art supply store. I bought mine at Blick Art Supply store for around $5-6. It is amazing! I originally bought it for paint brushes and then read online how it was also used by many for makeup brushes. Cleans + Conditions (so your bristles are kept in good condition).

u/Sindinista · 2 pointsr/Warhammer40k

I'm sure Dawn soap will clean them, but I don't know if other chemicals in there will hurt them long run. I would recommend Masters Brush Cleaner. I found some in a local art supply store.

u/Rokanos · 2 pointsr/Warhammer40k

do it. Easily the best money you'll ever spend and it's only like $9 for the masters kind, which will last you a year at least.


EDIT: bought mine in July 2016 and it's still only about a quarter used yeah. lol

u/TorchedBlack · 2 pointsr/minipainting

You can look into some more tailored brush soap as opposed to just dish soap. This is what I use and it works pretty well. Similar process to what you're currently using and you can also leave some of the soap on to dry to "sculpt" and condition the brushes back into shape.

u/IxI_DUCK_IxI · 2 pointsr/Warhammer40k

I've used the stuff you find at a Hobby store, cheap brushes you find in a package of 20 for $2 and have started using the Da Vinci series of brushes. All brushes work and work with varying results. However, the issue is longevity. I've had to toss all the Hobby store brushes after 3 or 4 months because they start to fray and split. The Da Vinci brushes on the other hand I've been using for quite awhile and they still work as if I just took them out of the package.

I picked up this stuff which has made cleaning the brushes much easier, more thoroughly and increased the longevity, but the Hobby store brushes just don't last very long.

if you want to buy the cheap $5 brushes and replace them frequently then they'll work fine. But you tend to get "Attached" to a brush and how it works so longevity is a key factor for me.

u/redpiano · 2 pointsr/minipainting

Yeah that thing is called "helping hands" I believe, it serves the same purpose more or less.

Vallejo paint is arguably some of the longest lasting paint on the market, I would avoid GamesWorkshop paints as they have a reputation of drying out fast. However my Vallejo bottles from 2009 are still kicking.

Yeah, get him a canister of this stuff, and a couple either Raphael 8404 or Winsor & Newton S7's and he won't really need any other brush for years.

You can buy cheap airbrush kits from the "master" brand that include an airbrush and air compressor for I think about 80$, I don't personally have any experience with them so I can't say much about them. I've heard that the compressors will last a decent amount of time, comparable if not better than more expensive air compressors like Grex. And you can upgrade the airbrush at a later date for an entry level Iwata Revolution for like 70$.

A wet palette is a palette with a sponge or paper towel soaked in water covered by a piece of parchment paper. Basically it keeps paint moist so that they don't dry out within a few minutes of laying them on the palette. You can make one for nothing, you literally just need a stack of paper towels, a flat Tupperware container and a roll of parchment paper. But there are companies that make wet palettes and sell pre-cut inserts and such.

u/WhoaFoogles · 2 pointsr/ageofsigmar

There are definitely better alternatives, but you can't go wrong using GW's brushes. All of GW's tutorials and videos use their own brand, and I find it easier to "follow along" by using them too. I imagine if I got some more experience and skill under my belt that I'd want to shift to using some higher quality brushes, but for a casual or beginner, I think they're just fine. You don't need to go hogwild and buy the entire range, just get some of the standard sizes and you'll be set (the essential set is a good selection).

Winsor & Newton brushes seem to be popular alternatives, but are kind of pricey. The Army Painter has a line comparable to GW at around the same price. Amazon has tons of inexpensive hobby brushes for acrylic paints; be sure to check the reviews to see how they hold up if you go that route.

Regardless of what brushes you get, do yourself a favor and get the Masters Brush Cleaner. It's like a magic panacea for brush care.

u/balefrost · 2 pointsr/minipainting
  1. Yes, I suggest using a primer. I've been using acrylic gesso, and it works reasonably well, but I'm still searching for something better. The primer will ideally give your paint something stronger to stick to, and it can also set the overall color "tone" of the mini. If you're painting a light color, you want to prime in a light color. If you're painting a dark mini, use a dark primer. Or just use grey for everything.

  2. I liked this video
    > "Your paint should be transparent enough to where you can actually see through it."

    He then goes on to say that your paint should be thinned such that you can paint over a newspaper and still read the words after the paint has dried.

    Paint thinning is just one of those skills you need to develop. And the only way to do that is to paint.

  3. I usually mix a family of colors to get the shade I want, but this is where you need to play around and get a feel for your paints. Try mixing all kinds of things. It's worth noting that wet acrylic paints are usually a shade lighter than dry paint... so you might need to add more lightening agent than you would think.

    Be careful when highlighting red. To me, orange-ish highlights look correct, but pinkish highlights typically look wrong. It probably depends on the particular piece, but I've almost always seen people highlight red with orange. Other colors should highlight fine by mixing white.

  4. You probably want a variety of sizes. Unfortunately, as I understand it, sizes are not consistent across manufacturers. I have some Windsor and Newton #000 through #2 brushes... I think I use the #1 the most, followed by the #00. You generally want to use the largest brush that you can use for the thing you're painting (don't use a tiny brush for basecoating... it will take forever and it will wear the brush faster).

    You want to get above a certain threshold of brush quality, but after that you'll encounter diminishing returns. Avoid cheapo, "kid-quality", dollar store brushes. Those will just let you down. You want a brush that will hold a point and will hold onto its bristles - it's really frustrating when a brush sheds bristles into wet paint on your mini. I suspect that any "student quality" or above brush will be fine. I would avoid hog's hair brushes for mini painting - hog's hair is pretty stiff. A decent synthetic brush is probably what you want. I splurged when I got started (at the suggestion of some Youtuber) and picked up a set of Windsor and Newton Series 7, Kolinsky Sable brushes. I like them a lot. They're expensive (Amazon shows them about $10 - $15 each). But they should last a long time if you take care of them.

    Speaking of which, get some brush soap. That should keep your brushes alive longer.

    One final piece of advice - paint! When I got started, I watched tons of YouTube videos, I tried to copy other people's techniques. I turned it into a science. Doing those things isn't bad (YouTube especially is FULL of great tips), but at the end of the day, the best way to learn is to fail. Get painting and you will see your skills improve before your very eyes.
u/Erixperience · 2 pointsr/criticalrole

Paints: Vallejo Basic Colors, plus a few Reaper MSP paints like Truesilver, Gem Purple, and Adamantium black (which I used on the bases). I spent a lot of time mixing up new shades.

Primer: I'm a fan of spray primers since they tend to be a bit more even-coated and don't ruin details, I just used some Rustoleum Grey spray primer since I don't have an airbrush setup. Example.

Brushes: I use the Virtuoso 15-piece set, but most of those are too big for fine detail work, so it might be worth investing in even smaller brushes. Getting eyes right is fiendishly difficult.

Misc: I sometimes use a magnifying glass with clamps on it, but you need to be careful not to splash paint on it. I also use this after rinsing out my brushes.

You should absolutely check out r/minipainting for more resources, there's a lot to work with in their FAQs.

u/ISwearImAGirl · 2 pointsr/SkincareAddiction

I really like this for cleaning my brushes, and diluted baby shampoo works very well too. I mix 1/2 water and 1/2 shampoo, which also makes the brushes easier to rinse.

A silicone scrub pad like this gives a deeper clean than rubbing against your palm, and speeds up the process quite a bit. I used it for the first time yesterday, and it took me about half the time than it used to.

u/frumperbell · 2 pointsr/MakeupAddiction

I clean all my brushes and my BB knock off daily. Otherwise I break out something awful. I use this stuff and it's magic. I had a lip brush that had been stained from a magenta lippie for years. It came clean the first time I washed it with that.

I haven't had a problem with mold, but I haven't had mine for very long. I think sanitizing it occasionally with alcohol like /u/SecretCitizen40 says is a good idea.

u/griff_the_unholy · 2 pointsr/minipainting

I picked up something very similar to this a little while ago:

and one of these.

I set up my desk with cardboard sheets and news paper, and ware a respirator. with the window open. this setup works fine. it's just a bit of a pain to set up and pack up. I love using it and the results I get.

the iwata is pretty damn awesome, but the cheap brush that came with the compressor can do 95% of the job, so the iwata is kinda overkill when ur a beginner

u/gigisima · 2 pointsr/adeptustitanicus

But if you want to invest, I'll save up and buy from the big brands such as Iwata, check their 'eclipse' range. About £120 for mid-range. Then buy a compressor for about £60 to £80.

Check out reviews on YouTube

Iwata eclipse
Iwata-Medea Eclipse HP CS Dual Action Airbrush Gun / Gravity Feed

ABEST Complete Professional Airbrush Compressor Kit with Air Tank for Nails Tattoo Nail Art With Dual Action AirBrush Spray Gun for craftwork, cosmetics, tanning, hobbies, models, airbrushing, painting, cake decorating, customised clothing

u/Kyp_15 · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

Buying an airbrush is kind of like buying a guitar. If you buy a super cheap one it's difficult to get any good results out of it and it can put you off for life. So invest a little bit would be my advice.

I can personally recommend the following.

Airbrush: iwata hp-cs -

Compressor: -

The Compressor comes with a cheap airbrush so if you want to try with a cheap one go ahead, but you will want to upgrade sooner or later and that Iwata HP-CS will last a life time if you look after it.

This is also a must -


u/mrgascoyne · 2 pointsr/Warhammer40k

I recently got back into the scene and invested in an airbrush... I love it. It makes priming and base coating much quicker and I have now started using it to apply the layers.

I live in the Uk and went for this compressor

I would think that you could probably get a cheaper one but it was on offer when I got it and only cost about £55

For the brush I went with

Ordered it from and it came from Japan, total cost about £80 a lot cheaper than I could find it in Uk

You will also need to buy a hose

u/Ratharyn · 2 pointsr/minipainting

Go for it mate! I went with this one:

Seems to be a fairly solid all rounder, really struggled to find a bad word said about it.

u/jayadan · 2 pointsr/InfinityTheGame

Vallejo Model Air and Game air are both good lines for airbrushing your models. If you're new to airbrushing then buying airbrush paints are probably the best way to get started, but you can also just thin down your regular paints too. I don't recommend starting by doing this as it's better to learn to control the airbrush with paint that you know should be working properly before you throw in the new variable of paint thinning.

As for airbrushes, I always recommend the Iwata Eclipse. It's both a good starter brush as well as a brush that you will continue to use as you become a more skilled airbrush artist.

u/dumba360 · 2 pointsr/Warhammer

Honestly would recommend the Iwata Eclipse HP-CS. Yeah it's a more expensive airbrush but it's a fantastic piece of equipment.

Pretty much would recommend these to start you off:

EDIT: I know the topic says cheap but with airbrushes, you pay for what you get.

u/Hvstle · 2 pointsr/Airbrushing

I think it's cool you want to pick up a hobby your father had. It will be a nice reminder every time you pick up the gun.

I use this 100% for miniatures, and it works great!!


Alright, here is the list I bought. It's a bit more than you want to spend, but this will ensure you can get going right away, and not be frustrated. I did a fair amount of research on different forums, sites, and youtube videos. If you want to know why I chose something, feel free to ask. I was going to bold the ones that you absolutely need, but I would say everything in the first set are a must.


u/Flakpanda · 2 pointsr/Warhammer40k

I did a lot of research/reading reviews/watching videos when i was getting my airbrush. I think I waited almost 3 months before making a purchase. The two that everyone always suggested to start with is an Iwata Eclipse or a Badger Patriot 105. I decided on the Badger. Then it sat on a shelf for a year because i was trying to decide on a compressor. Never really wanted to invest the money for a nice silent one. Instead, I bought a 10 gallon tank and some fittings and plummed it up. I fill it up with our compressor in the garage. It lasts me about 2 hours til I have to fill it back up.

If you are not worried about the noise, you can just buy a cheap pancake compressor from a local hardware store. I do suggest getting one with a few gallon tank though so that it doesn't kick on as much since they are loud as fuck. You will need a filter whatever route you go since non-airbrush ones usually don't have one.

List of the things you will need to buy:

  • Airbrush
  • Airbrush Hose (suggest 10ft)
  • Air supply (compressor or tank)

    I also suggest you invest in:

  • An airbrush stand (Didn't realize I needed it until I got it)
  • Airbrush thinner/flow improver (Vallejo's is what I buy)
  • Odorless paint thinner
  • Small cup/shot glass/container to soak parts in overnight after use

    I am by no means an expert on this subject. I am a hobbyist and enthusiast at best. I always suggest you do your own research. Let me know if there is anything else I can answer for you.
u/Oncotic · 2 pointsr/fountainpens

My experience with inks is pretty limited, I hope others will help me out with suggestions. I use Private Reserve DC Supershow Blue, which is a full, darkish blue. My uncle recommended it to me because it is easy to clean and it is easy to restart pens that have dried up using a drop of water. HOWEVER, it has no water resistance whatsoever, so if you expect your notes to come in contact with water (aka rain), they will smear badly. Inks like a Noodler's Bulletproof Black are great if you want your notes to last a long time. However, I haven't used a bulletproof ink before, but I know they smell.

u/Jesse_berger · 2 pointsr/fountainpens

The paper makes the experience and for the time being this will treat you nicely. You can get a 5 pack for three dollars at most Target.

If you can justify the price Rhodia and Clairefontaine makes excellent paper.

Ink:This is a well behaved ink that will work great on any paper.

Waterman is a nice ink sold on Amazon, I have inspired blue and it's excellent and a lot of fun.

The folks here will suggest all different kinds of ink, enjoy your new pen and try not to get addicted like me!

u/GalactusIntolerant · 2 pointsr/fountainpens

Noodlers Bulletproof black has a pretty big following. I use it myself and it perfectly fits my ink needs. They also sell other inks that people seem to enjoy, but I personally have no experience with them.

u/Rybos · 2 pointsr/EDC

How about a nice pen? Have you ever used a fountain pen?

This pen is great. I have one with a silver trim. I've had many a fountain pen, and this is still my favorite, even more so than pens that cost me twice as much. Feels good, looks good, made very well, writes well. Just don't drop it. It will break. That's the only downside for me. However, I've broken mine 3 times, and epoxied it back together and polished it up each time.

When you start using a FP, paper becomes important too. Cheap paper and some fancy notebook brands (i.e moleskine) are horrible for fountain pens. Ink will bleed and spider on the page. I'd suggest looking at this brand of paper. They're cheap(er than moleskine), look good, and take fountain pen ink super well.

You'll need some ink too. I'd suggest starting with something from Noodler's ink lke this. Some FP inks are waterproof, some are not. Bulletproof, iron gall, or pigmented inks are usually water proof.

I know that probably puts you closer to $100, but imo, it's worth it if that's something that interests you.

u/Zediac · 2 pointsr/fountainpens

Noodler's Ink black. Item number 19001. I use the pen at work so I have to keep things simple and professional. I'd prefer a nice dark blue, but, eh. It's for my paperwork.

I like your handwriting. Mine is still sloppy but I'm working on it.

If cleaning doesn't work then I'll try the soap trick. Thanks.

u/terransdestroy · 2 pointsr/fountainpens

i got these two with a metro

hope i got the right stuff lol

u/batfacecatface · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

I'm so sorry for your loss. <3 I'd love to use this to build my drawing skills as well as managing my anxiety. Thank you for this contest.

u/verticalnoise · 2 pointsr/santashelpers

He sounds like a good recipient for a Buddha Board.

I'd also think of a pile of great books that delve into the therapy/specialty he's interested in, knowledge goes with any lifestyle. Or maybe a book on how to build furniture yourself that's easy to make and light on the environment.

> Preferably something basic, that improves quality of life and will last a lifetime.

Victorinox Swiss army knife with lots of necessary features. For $50 I don't know too many things that will last a lifetime, maybe someone else here knows better.

u/82364 · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

HandHook I think you'll love this

/u/argirl09 (my latest newbie) has a water writing board thing on her list. I've played with one and can say that if five minutes of readability is too much but you also don't want the ability to erase your work at will, this is for you. Do you have cats? They'll enjoy drinking from and pushing over the water glass you leave out to use with the board.

Small container of lube.

u/w3bshark · 2 pointsr/androiddev

I got it as a gift. But, it's nice. It's kind of kitcshy, but it's calming/relaxing to draw/write on it. Just requires water. It comes with the brush.

u/VicGenesis · 2 pointsr/airbrush

First things first, how big is the armor? Is this something you'll be wearing? If so, a smaller one like this will make your life hard. They get hot really fast and they'll shut off on you. The thing about them is that they run constantly. Push the trigger, it fires up to keep up with the air demand. It can be done, but it'll take awhile. I painted a helmet with one of these and it was very frustrating.

I do suggest investing in something else. Something like this California Air Tools compressor will do you a lot more justice. The storage tank really helps. Your compressor won't turn on as much, thus leading to a much longer lifespan. I have the 6310A version and it has been going strong for about 2 years now. I have been using it for my airbrushes and my smaller spray guns. It easily powers my LPH80 mini gun when I'm painting motorcycle parts. You can usually spray for about 10-15 minutes before the motor kicks in. This is when I spray at lower psi. If you're spraying at a higher psi it'll turn on faster, but it's still not as loud as many conventional compressors. You won't need ear plugs. When it does it isn't very loud. I can turn mine on at 2am when my family is asleep and they can't hear it upstairs. Invest your money wisely as a hobbyist.

I do suggest investing in a mini gun eventually. You'll get faster coverage and more even coverage. If you have any questions feel free to message me. I had to teach myself because no one was willing to help me. I don't mind helping people out whether they have questions about materials or equipment.

u/martbasi · 2 pointsr/modelmakers

It's irritating that the price is higher for essentially the same thing but this guy is equivalent IMO ... that said - I'm only linking to it because you asked, I am a novice like yourself but have been looking long and hard at these units and chimed in to hopefully save you some of the time I've wasted ;)
I am not actually endorsing it or telling you to buy it, caveat emptor, read the reviews etc.

u/Sgt_Meowmers · 2 pointsr/SciFiModels

If you really wanna get it good looking I'd recommend getting an airbrush to paint it. Cans are fine but you'll never get the right colors going that way. It's possible to just use a regular brush but it'll also come out extremely thick and unsatisfactory compared to an airbrush. Its a small investment (about $150 for a nice airbrush and another $100 for a small compressor if you don't already have one. Get one with a tank if you can) but if you do even a couple of models with it you'll never want to use a regular brush to paint an entire model again.

First off the model as it comes is way too blue, I'd recommend painting it based off the newer bandai model's box art as it looks fantastic which you can see here: TIE Advanced.

For the paint itself my personal favorite is the Tamiya line of acrylics. They are the best looking and most professional out of all the acrylics I've seen. They come in nice bottles that are great too. This is of course the best for airbrushing as thats what I would do but if you do end up going the brush route a better paint would probably be Vallejo as they are more suited towards that.

I'd honestly forgo the primer and simply do a full flat black base coat to get that blue off of the solar pannels then mask those up and do the main body. According to the supplied sheet for the bandai model the main body is 70% neutral grey and 30% white with a pinch of blue grey. For the darker parts around the ship its a 100% neutral grey. You'd use that in areas like the recesses on the wing roots, the window's frame and a few other places.

After that its really up to you how much extra detail you wanna add. You can do some dark washes to get those nice shadows, maybe add some metallic scratches and what not. Theres no limit with these sort of things.

Also as a last note if you wanna get into some more of these model's I would highly HIGHLY recommend the entire line of 1/72 ships by bandai. They are all snap together and have more detail then you would believe for their price as well as coming slightly colored so you can fit it all together and still admire it even before painting. I have the TIE Fighter and plan on getting the TIE Interceptor and TIE Advanced. They are the perfect size for putting on display (or playing with haha) and even scale correctly with other real world planes in 1/72 scale.

u/metalt · 2 pointsr/Warhammer40k

Stuff that you need:

  • Compressor - What I use There are lots of different compressors out there but you want to at least get one that is designed for airbrushing IE: oil-less and preferably one with a tank. Airbrush compressors are designed to be quiet as opposed to like a shop compressor that is loud as fuck.

  • Airbrush - What I use This is an Iawata eclipse which is more on the expensive side but honestly since the airbrush is what is doing all of the work I opted for quality here. This is not to say that you cannot find good quality airbrushes for less but this particular name and model is fairly well known for being one of the best. You might want to shop around on this one to find one within your budget. The main thing is that you want gravity feed with the cup on the top of the airbrush, and dual action meaning that you press the trigger down for air only and pull back for paint. Single action airbrushes (paint and air together when you depress the trigger) are garbage.

  • Airbrush Flow Improver - link This is what makes airbrushing thick acrylics especially GW paints possible. It allows you to thin down the paints while maintaining good coverage but won't speed up drying time like thinner or pure water will.

  • Misc other stuff - You will also want latex gloves for the hand that you hold models with. Find at auto parts stores or in the first aid section of a drug store in boxes of 100. Masks, either the paper disposable ones or get a painters respirator mask at the hardware store. Simple Green for cleaning your airbrush. I run a full paint cup of it through followed by a full paint cup of water in between colors and when I finish for the day. Gun/Pistol oil for oiling up the moving parts of the airbrush. Find at any place that sells firearms (walmart, academy, outdoor goods stores). I use it to oil up the trigger, as well as all of the threading. I also dip the needle itself in the oil which lightly lubricates the spray nozzle and helps to prevent clogs.

  • Final tip - everything that I learned about airbrushing I have learned from this dude on youtube: Next Level Painting I suggest watching his videos as well as videos from other youtubers to avoid a lot of trial and error. Lastly ... don't be intimidated... it takes practice but once you feel comfortable with using the airbrush it really ups your painting game.
u/Effion · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

I've been using a second hand Paasche airbrush since August, and it's been working really nicely for me. I really like how easy it is to disassemble and clean. I just ordered a new Paasche H to replace the one I've got because I like the design so much, and I'd like to finally have all the parts so I can try some of the fancier techniques I see folks pulling off (like shading and fine details).

I started out hand painting (and still do it when I just want to add some minor details), and having the airbrush is really convenient. I can spray all my parts in an hour or two (depending on how many parts and how many colors) and then work on other things for the rest of the evening, instead of having to devote an entire evening (or more) just to prep and painting.

If you don't have one, you'll want a compressor too. I love this one, it's nice and quiet when it runs. I've got it under my desk sitting on top of a towel and you can barely hear it. It does need an adapter for the Paasche hose tho since of course the Master fitting is different.

If a bit of noise isn't an issue, there's also this Paasche setup with everything all in one pack . Down side is no tank, but the compressor isn't very loud.

u/thelastbaldwin · 2 pointsr/airbrush

Here is the hobby compressor that I bought and am happy with. I recommend compressor with a tank because the airflow is much more constant.

I bought a cheap Iwata Neo and used a generic airbrush that came with my first compressor before I picked up a Badger Patriot 105. From my experience cheap airbrushes are simply more prone to clogging. If the airbrush can spray water without trouble, it'll probably just be a matter of finding the right ratio in order to get paint to flow. I do recommend just throwing down for a better airbrush, specifically the 105. As far as paints for testing, I recommend just getting a small bottle of Model Air paint. They're specifically thinned for airbrushing and have finer pigment so you should be able to test with them without having to mess with thinning.

u/swdpwnzdggr · 2 pointsr/minipainting

I got this the other week, I currently live in a ~400 square foot apartment and it isn't much louder than my windows AC, takes about 30-60 seconds to fill up, and from then on is perfectly silent until it starts running low and it will turn back on, fill up in a few secs, shut off again.

u/JupiterKush · 2 pointsr/modelmakers

I bought this a couple weeks ago and it has been working really nicely so far. It also comes with a hose.

u/ClearAirTurbulence3D · 2 pointsr/modelmakers

The equivalent compressor in the US is this one:

Read through all the comments - the screws and seals on the compressor piston have to re checked and tightened for best results, but it works well and it's very quiet. Harbor Freight probably has an equivalent.

u/AngryEchoSix · 2 pointsr/modelmakers

Doesn't have a tank, which is a deal breaker for me. A compressor with a tank provides a constant airflow, eliminating the air pulsing which can distort your paint job.

This one is exactly like mine and I have zero issues with it.

u/dbd6604 · 2 pointsr/Warhammer40k

I was in the same boat as you. This is all the stuff I bought:,,,, .

I also bought an assortment of paints I thought I'd need. I went with the Vallejo Game Air line. If you look around, you'll see the stuff I bought recommended by many people for novice airbrushers.

Also, when I bought all that stuff, I signed up for the Amazon Prime credit card as well, so I ended up getting like $120 off that order. It worked out pretty well.

u/_solonights · 2 pointsr/Sneakers

Sanford 35558 Sharpie Oil-Based Paint Marker, Medium Point, White, 1-Count

This one is the way to go.

u/atvar8 · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Brush Cleaner to keep my paint brushes in good shape! I like to paint miniatures! Here's the first mini I painted, an orc, and my latest WIP: a Union Soldier!

u/laloga · 1 pointr/MakeupAddiction

I clean my BB after each use with a solid paintbrush cleaner. It comes in two sizes, (small and large), and you can generally find it at any arts and crafts store. It's MUCH cheaper than the BB brand cleanser. I believe other folks will use solid soaps like Dr. Bronner's.

u/perennial__pupil · 1 pointr/Makeup

I use the The Masters Brush Cleaner. It’s an art supply used to clean oil and acrylic off of paint brushes so I know it’s really good for taking dried makeup residue off. It isn’t advertised to clean makeup brushes but its safety data sheet indicates no hazardous material or health hazards. I haven’t tried the brush cleaning balms advertised for makeup brushes but I assume it’s very similar but The Masters Brush Cleaner is much cheaper. You can find it at Hobby Lobby or amazon.

But I just wet my brush and swirl it around gently in there to get the product until it lathers and use a makeup cleaning mat to scrape the residue off. Rinse and repeat until the water is clear.

Then I put one of these net guards around the hairs to keep its shape until it’s dry.

u/Rinascita · 1 pointr/minipainting

In addition to this, when I clean my brushes, I use this:

It helps them to stay clean and keep their shape for far longer than prior to using it.

u/TheGingerSnapper · 1 pointr/MakeupAddiction

This is what I use. It's really easy--just wet your brushes in warm water and swish it around. Takes about a minute to work all the stuff out, though expect to spend a few minutes on sponges. Doesn't harm bristles and smells amazing!

u/wcfore01 · 1 pointr/minipainting

So I'll give you a link to a list that you may find useful for checking all the boxes on what you may need. I'll post my opinions below on some of the stuff I have found is most important. (I went through this process about 2-3 months ago)

I LOVE this hobby knife Very important for removing mold lines, cutting off flash, etc. Very important to get one that starts and stays sharp

Primer is incredibly important. You want to make a suitable surface for your paint to adhere to. I would also look up some articles about how to prime. Contrary to popular belief you don't want the entire model to be the color of your prime when you are done! You want it to look almost speckled and have about 80% coverage.

Paint Here is a decent starter box of citadel paint, with a box and some 1/2 decent brushes. Obviously this is a bit pricey, but you get 45 paints plus some helpful extras

Brush Cleaner VITALLY important. Keeps paint out of the ferrule and helps your brushes stay conditioned and pointed

Brushes I just got a Winsor and Newton Series 7 #00, #1 and #2....WOW the difference between these and synthetic brushes is night and day. Painting tasks that seemed to take forever or require too much of a steady hand are MUCH easier now

Dull Cote Matte Spray Essential for providing a matte finish and protection to be able to actually use your minis. This product is excellent for that

Obviously there are many more items that are important to have that are described in more detail in that link I provided. But the ones above are the ones I would consider most essential

u/hivemind_MVGC · 1 pointr/XWingTMG

Assuming you understand how to use your drybrushes, the rest of it is just finding brushes you like, whether those be a $2 bruch from a hobby store or a $25 Windsor & Newton.

Best learning advice I can give you is to head over to /r/minipainting and start reading and asking questions.

Best actual advice I'll give you is to start using a wet palette, and clean your brushes regularly:

u/littleladle · 1 pointr/painting

I also just started out in acrylics. I'm not sure of a good set that has everything in one, but I can share what I got to get started. For Christmas I got the basics, i.e. Red, Yellow, Blue, White, and Blank paint (Premiere acrylics), some canvases (8x10 and 12x16), a set of 12 different Royal and Langnickel brushes, and a wooden table-top easel.

Additional items I went back to AC Moore and bought:

--Silver, Gold, Brown, Green, Orange, and Purple paints

--A sta-wet palette which keeps your paints from drying up while you are working.

--Palette knife

--Canvas panels

-- Liquitex Gloss medium & Varnish

-- Brush Cleaner (same as this one on Amazon)

Basically I was having trouble finding an All-in one kit, so I got everything separately. One thing I would have done differently is buy a multipack of the paints with more colors to save time mixing. If you want to go pick stuff out in person then AC Moore or Michaels, as JT suggested, are great. Otherwise, everything seems to be on Amazon and the reviews tend to be pretty helpful! I actually made my shopping list by looking up things on Amazon and then went to the store because I was too impatient to want to wait for shipping.

u/coco_dollar · 1 pointr/MakeupAddiction

I use this brush cleaner, it's relatively cheap and it cleans my brushes the best. You can also Dawn soap, I let them dry for a day. Good luck!

u/Sychophant · 1 pointr/minipainting

Synthetic brushes will deteriorate no matter what you do. Natural hair brushes are the way to go. I've only had to replace one of my good brushes in the 2 years I've been painting. I use This at the end of every painting session.

u/FlakManiak · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Ok so just to confirm: If I use The Masters, I'd put some of that on there after each painting session, and that'd act as both cleaner and conditioner? Also, this is the right product, right?

u/Gearyster · 1 pointr/minipainting

User this. Stuff is amazing.
General Pencil Company The Masters Brush Cleaner & Preserver 2.5 0z.

u/spacey_face · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

I just use this cleaner for all my brushes. I use those that I linked a few of the Army Painter ones and I really like the citadel shade brushes.

u/shutter_release · 1 pointr/Sneakers

I have an Iwata eclipse airbrush that I've had for probably 8 years now. It's a great airbrush.

It's the same brand and probably model that Mache is using in this video.

u/Xenosymmetry · 1 pointr/Warhammer

Thank you very much for the thorough reply! I do need to work on highlighting. This is the first time I started actually painting the highlights on instead of dry-brushing everything. Also, I am waiting on a hose for my new Iwata-Medea airbrush and I think that will help me make the future vehicles look even better.

u/morganfnf · 1 pointr/BloodAngels




These are all that I use and have been nothing but happy with them. I'm one of those with the mindset that if I'm going to invest, I'm going to invest - and the Iwata Eclipse is praised far and wide as one of, if not the, best airbrush out there.

u/scf389 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Make sure you buy a hose if you buy a compressor without one (eg. if you buy used).

You will want to buy a respirator.

You can also jump-start his accessories list by including some cleaning supplies (spray-out pot, airbrush cleaner), as well as some paints/primer/topcoat (tamiya, mr color, vallejo, alclad ii, etc.).

I believe this can all be done with a budget of 300$ (assuming US). At this point, he could start spraying that day if he wanted.

EDIT: I use this Master Airbrush Compressor and the Iwata HP-CS airbrush. I've been happy with them so far, but I do wish I spent a little more on a compressor with a tank (as /u/7x13 recommends).

u/Apollo_3_14 · 1 pointr/minipainting

I would say that you would only really see benefits with a higher quality air compressor if you've already got your skill using an airbrush really dialed in until then a cheaper airbrush would really suffice. I'll entirely honest I've only been airbrushing my miniatures for a couple of months now but I've had the honor of using my friends high quality compressor but I've also been using my cheap Master Compressor. If i'm being entirely honest with you at my skill level I can't even tell the slightest difference between the two. My much more skilled friend can notice a huge difference between the two compressors but again, he's been airbrushing for almost five years. Now for a beginner I am using a slightly nicer airbrush, I'm using the Iwata HP-CS. I was recommended by him that I get the nicer airbrush and the cheaper air-compressor because the fine detail work that you're almost constantly doing with miniatures, he argued that the airbrush would have much higher returns per dollar than the more expensive air-compressor. I hope that helped a little. Take that all with a grain of salt because Like I said before I'm new and these are just my personal observations.

u/sujinjian · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Anyone have any opinions on the Iwata Eclipse Airbrush and Iwata Silver Jet compressor?

Thinking about getting those to start airbrushing

Linked below:

u/KeeperOfWind · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I must had posted in the wrong section.

I did some research on gunpla before I got ready to invest into it.

So I was wondering what airbrush should I pick up as a beginner.
I'm looking to use these airbrush for everything and finer detailing on models.

The iwata eclipse is a recurring brand I've seen on bunch of blogs and seems to be the most popular

So which one should I buy? Can anyone recommend any of these?

Last at least the air compressor and other parts.
I've also seen this recommended on one blog:

Apparently it's better then a hobby's air compressor cause of the constant air flow you will get?
I was wondering what kind of hose and connectors I would need for either the badger or iwata if I picked up the air compressor.

Sorry for any spelling or grammar mistakes in advance as I'm typing on my phone.

u/Ruff_Dog · 1 pointr/fountainpens

I just got a JinHao pen and it looks amazing. The reason I say looks is because I don't have ink for it. I've checked the sidebar and the sub wiki and such, but I had a question for y'all. What's your favorite non-blue and non-black ink? If I was going to go black I'd get this and blue would be this. But I want something.. different.

I'd like to stay around or under $20.

u/Skepticalj · 1 pointr/fountainpens

I haven't tried many inks, but the one I'm using now is Noodler's Bulletproof Black, and it's just excellent. In a Lamy Safari EF, it's my go-to pen for everyday use.

u/SabioHombre · 1 pointr/fountainpens

I just bought Noodler's black and it's exactly what you want. The only small thing is that it's not a pure, darkness of space black.

u/TofuTakahashi · 1 pointr/BuyItForLife

Oil based inks? No, it wouldn't flow as nicely and it wouldn't flow as nicely in the pen. However, there are some safe pigment inks that are "waterproof." I want to put a disclaimer here though, you should not use any ink not intended for fountain pens, ever. Specifically India ink. It's too heavily pigmented and will destroy the pen's feed (that's the piece that rests behind the nib and connects to the ink reserve).

There are a few notable waterproof inks out there, most of them are labeled as "taper proof" or "safety ink" intended for office use. After all, there still are a fair share of professionals who use fountain pens but need to have taper proof signatures (same goes for personal use and signing documents). Noodle's bullet proof ink is quite good, and inexpensive for a waterproof and tamper proof ink. Platinum also makes one as well. There are others out there, but they escape my mind. Only downside to the waterproof inks is they are not quite as "wet" as other inks., and they lack the verity of colours

u/Ardakilic · 1 pointr/fountainpens

Sorry, I should've been more specific. When I wrote Noodler's, I meant Noodlers Black, this one.

> if you find an ink too wet, you can add a tiny bit of water to make it drier. This works by diluting the amount of surfectants/other things that help the ink flow.

Well that's new for me. Thanks, that's awesome to know this! I'd think quite the opposite because all this wetness/dryness logic (such as add water = wetter).

u/akwayfarer · 1 pointr/santashelpers

Some neat ideas for artsy people are a Buddha board and an expert coloring book.

u/adiposehysteria · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

As soon as I found out about the Buddha Board I knew I wanted one.

It is a special board that allows you to paint with water. When the water dries, the image vanishes. It is supposed to be a zen thing to show you to paint just for the sake of painting, since the image will disappear. It is also supposed to be a symbol that everything is temporary.

I also use coloring and collect as many coloring books as I can.

This is this first time I have ever tried to enter hyperlinks in a comment and I hope it works. I could have just screwed these hyperlinks up royally, lol.

u/DoritoLocoTaco · 1 pointr/perfectgift

I'm probably too late, but some ideas!

The mug is a cute idea, I love these "Surprise Mugs"

We don't know which country you or she is from, but it might be nice to get hers something small from her country (or something from your country that's super distinct if she's very excited about living there).

For instance, if she is from Germany, you could get her some Hanuta -- I know when I moved away from home, it was very comforting to get reminders from there.

Or if she's from Belgium, Stroopwafels might be nice to go with tea! Just something small that represents her home.

As for relaxation items (which seems to me to be one of your best options seeing as your ultimate goal is to help her relax, right?), I have a few:

Gong for her desk at work?

A zen "Desktop Garden?"

A Buddha Board for work?

A little desktop fountain?

A diffuser for at home (SUPER relaxing, but you'd also need essential oils)?

Or even a necklace diffuser?

u/mudprincess · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon


You need this [Buddha Board] (

It is a super cool canvas that you paint with water and then it disappears in minutes. Zen painting. :)

u/TheJulie · 1 pointr/AskReddit

The Buddha Board is my new go-to gift. It's cool and suits a wide variety of personalities (mother that needs a Zen moment, CEO that needs a Zen moment, cube worker that needs a cool cube toy, that artsy-fartsy guy that did that thing for me once, the weird chick that no one knows anything about but I drew her name in a Secret Santa).

u/Goldkillz · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I use this Compressor and this airbrush you need a adapter for the hose it comes with but its a good place to start.

u/crystalmerchant · 1 pointr/modelmakers

Ah gotcha. Yeah I'm looking at this one and similar. Reports and videos are that it's about the noise level of a small fan, sort of. Which to me is acceptable. Has the auto on-off and moisture trap too. Can totally see the appeal of CO2 only though -- zero noise is better than a little noise, right? :)

u/ice_09 · 1 pointr/minipainting

Just to add my 2 cents - I also have the Iwata HP-CS and absolutely love it. My close friend has the Badger Sotar that Miniac uses and loves his airbrush as well. You really can't go wrong with either of them. My only additional recommendation is to invest in an air-compressor that has a dedicated tank. I use this one and it has been awesome for the last two years. The tank helps eliminate any pulsating pressure and allows for a more consistent experience. Its not super important, but what kind of miniatures does your husband paint and what does he plan on painting with the airbrush? One thing to keep in mind while you look at airbrushes is the needle sizes of the unit - they can be changed, but the one that comes with it does play a role in how the airbrush behaves. The Iwata comes with a .35 mm needle while the Sotar can be found with needles ranging from .19 mm to .31 mm. The .19 mm needle is much finer and is better for precision work. I think the .35 is a great "all around" size, but if he plans on doing a lot of small details, he may find it a bit too large.

An airbrush is a great gift! I know I use mine all the time!

u/Jack6478 · 1 pointr/modelmakers

Yeah, that compressor wasn't looking too good to me either. Replaced it with this.

I'm also going with the Paasche because of how many extras it comes with, like the three different needle sizes.

u/Ursin_Brennus · 1 pointr/minipainting

For your same $176, you might want to get this compressor with tank and Badger Patriot airbrush. For another $25 ($201 total) you could get this 3-in-1 Badger instead.

u/Lehovron · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Iwata Revolution CR, compressor is some no-brand thing very similar to this:

I used Tamiya masking tape for doing small things but got lazy and used some regular DIY store masking tape to cover the big areas, it was this tape that took some of the primer with it.

u/VentureGunpla · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I was able to get my airbrush set up for around 90 dollars.

I bought a used old $40 testors AC2000 from ebay, and a Iwata Neo CS for 45 dollars using Hobby lobby's 40% off. If you keep your eyes peeled for deals you can get a fairly cheap set up as well. If you're buying new, I'd recommend this compressor as it's cheap, comes with a tank, and produces adequate pressure. This will leave you with around $100 to get your airbrush and other supplies. Since it comes with a 1/8th hose it can fit the iwata airbrush without an adapter, but you'll need a specific adapter for either of the badger brushes.

Compressed aircans are sort of a step back, but if that's what you need to do then go for it. Getting a good compressor first is nice though, as they will last you a long long time.

u/MohnJaddenPowers · 1 pointr/Gunpla

If your budget is like that, get this for your compressor:

Then get this airbrush:

The Talon has all the features of the Iwata HP-CS at a fraction of the price. I've been using one for some time. My only complaint is that I'm looking at a wider nozzle, but that might just be me needing to nut up and thin my paint even more than I normally do, and just be more patient.

u/FreakinfreakInfreaki · 1 pointr/modelmakers

I'll be honest and say I got a similar kit from Amazon. Compressor works great the airbrush... not so much. I ended up just buying a Iwata Revolution. If you can afford it I'd recommend this compressor as it has a storage tank and then get a better airbrush. Just my opinion though.

u/wombat_supreme · 1 pointr/Warhammer

Totally worth it. There is a learning curve for sure, so if you keep it simple in the beginning with zenithal light technique, it will do wonders for your models and keep your sanity at the same time.
When you do get one, make sure you get a compressor that has a tank. I had one that did not and it was not usable. Also, a mosture trap is a must. posted a couple links for some reasonably priced brush and compressor that has the above mentioned features

u/tjkopena · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

I have this compressor, which I got as part of this kit. I'm only a beginner with the airbrush, but I highly recommend both. The compressor delivers a steady stream of air and doesn't heat up or make serious noise. I can easily use it at night without disturbing anybody even across the hall in my house.

Like OneWhoGeneralises said, GW's paints need to be thinned a lot. They're very thick for an airbrush to begin with, and tend to clot up even more as they dry out over time. I had a lot of trouble at first using mine without clogging up the airbrush. i can do it now, but mostly use Vallejo Air. I also found that Jay Adan video really helpful.

u/Sonofnocturne · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

NEW Quiet 1/6 hp MASTER AIRBRUSH TANK COMPRESSOR-(FREE) AIR HOSE and Now a (FREE) How to Airbrush Training Book to Get You Started, Published Exclusively By TCP Global.

u/_Whammo_ · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Hey! I was in a similar situation a few months ago with around a $200 budget as well. Here's what I got:

Airbrush: Iwata Revolution - It's a great airbrush and is almost always on sale on Amazon for under $100. It's easy to use, easy to clean, and is solvent safe, meaning you can spray more than just acrylics.

Compressor: Master Airbrush - I wanted something with a tank on it because I didn't want it to run the entire time, and this one fit the bill. It's super quiet (I can even run it at night), and it comes with a moisture trap, which is super important. It also comes with a hose!

That brings everything to about $200, so there's not much wiggle room to fit other stuff in if you draw a hard line on your budget, but definitely consider:

Spray Booth: Master Airbrush- This thing is amazing. I love it. It's compact and super easy to use. It folds up super tidy and even has a button to retract the cord.

Cleaner: Iwata-Medea Airbrush Cleaner - comes in different sizes, but it's been wonderful when cleaning out my brush between paints or when I need to do my monthly field-strip.

Thinner, Retarder, and Flow Improver: Vallejo products!- I love the Vallejo Auxillaries. They're easy to use, pretty cheap, and widely available depending where you live.

u/scooby00700 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

if you got some room to spare for compressor you can hit up ebay or amazon for this cheap compressor combo.

just remember to allow some cool down time and don't run your compressor for extended time or it will heat up and slow down the pump unit.

u/DobermanCavalry · 1 pointr/modelmakers

I have This Compressor and it has worked great so far. I also have a badger 150 that I use with it. I have done 1/350 ships with it however not for a while. I mainly focus on 1/35 tanks and sometimes 1/48 aircraft.

u/Incidental_Octopus · 1 pointr/minipainting

Yeah, sounds like you've eliminated things down to a problem inside the compressor itself.

TBH those types of compressors are practically just repackaged aquarium pumps, and IMO aren't what anyone should use. Even when they work, they top out at such a rock-bottom low PSI and CFM that they're basically unusable outside of one or two VERY narrow use cases. For model airbrushing, you want something a little bit stronger.

The Iwata Ninja Jet is WAY overpriced for how inherently limited it is. Return it, and get something like this or this instead (I use the latter, and can vouch for it).

u/indierockclimber · 1 pointr/StarWarsArmada

Honestly, don't bother with either of those compressors. You REALLY want one with a tank. For precision painting, the tank ensures an even air flow, while the kind that don't have a reserve tank sometimes can't keep up with consistent spray.

I have this one:

YES, it's more expensive, but honestly if you want to do it, I highly suggest you do it right. Had several friends buy those starter kits and they always wound up replacing both the compressor and brush it comes with, thus spending more.

Speaking of brush, those brushes are pretty bad. They aren't precision machined, so they use O-Rings all over the place. Those are hard to clean and a point of failure.

I have two airbrushes that I adore: an Iwata Revolution and a Grex (I forget the model)

You have a few different kinds of grips: a pistol grip and a pen grip. I have one of each and use them for different applications, but have found that I mostly prefer the Grex.

I think this is what I have:

Someone can probably recommend a cheaper alternative-

I recommend a gravity feed. Side feed and vacuum feed are both more of a pain to clean, and don't work so well with small amounts of paint for miniature work.

Anyways, just my opinions and observations. YMMV!

u/MichaelAndrewMk6 · 1 pointr/modelmakers

If you're getting something other than I believe 1/8" BSP hose you will need an adapter. I have an Iwata but I think Badger uses a different fitting.

u/Nrthstar · 1 pointr/Warhammer

I had the same goal as you, but eventually I broke down and went up a few bucks, knowing that I needed a compressor with a tank. So I went on Amazon and picked up this Master. Is it flawless, no, but I can paint for a long time without much worry.

While searching for the actual airbrush itself though, I jumped online and got a Hobby Lobby 40% off coupon and picked up this Iwata for a reasonable price. It's a decent airbrush although I'm plotting to use another coupon and pickup it's much more expensive siblings for detail work.

You can refine any airbrush though with some Regdab from Badger, it is some great lube, which you'll need anyways to keep a brush going and keep from wearing out the internal oring which would cause blowback failure.

You'll be at around $150 before paints if you have Amazon prime, but this setup has been great for a starter kit. Go too cheap and you'll have a bad experience and regret it. I'm loving it though, being able to blast through basecoating rapidly, and finally getting to paint vehicles without unwanted brush strucks on flat points. I intend to do almost all of my layers on a plastic contemptor with it and some liquid masking.

u/BishopMiles · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Save your money you are like $100 bucks off getting a decent set up.

Edit: Let me elaborate on my reasons a little bit.

You want an air compressor with a tank and an automatic on/off switch.

This will keep your airbrush from getting pulsating air and the on/off switch will extend the life of your compressor (so will the tank as it isn't running all the time). Some added bonuses is being able to work without a lot of noise.

There are some cheap ones you can buy on amazon. ( TheTC-40T and the Master Tank Compressor)

Airbrushes are tricky. but you still can get soem good ones under $100. Like the Badger Krome RK-1, Badger 105 Patriot, Iwata Neo (Not made by Iwata but supported by them), and Iwata Revolution

u/GunplaCyril · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Don't go the cheap route in buying an airbrush. I HIGHLY recommend you buy an airbrush from iwata, their quality and prices are great. I myself use an Iwata HP C Plus for 2 years and it still is my go-to brush. It can do anything, from fine detail jobs to wide sprays for blending. For an air compressor, you should get one with a tank. Here is a good set to buy Iwata w/ compressor combo. Save up and go for quality on airbrushes, trust me.

Or if you want to save up on money, you can buy another Iwata airbrush, the HP CR Revolution gravity feed which is a great airbrush at a fraction of the price.

For airtanks, I've used a couple, but they really don't differ much with brands in my opinion. Go for an air compressor with a tank like this one from amazon.

Now if you're looking for a high quality airbrush and price doesn't matter, I recommend you buy this badboy from hobbywave. Its my second airbrush, and it handles like a dream.

Hope this helps.

u/Tobi816 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Stupid question. My airbrush was delivered today and everything looks perfect! There is one tiny little nick? that I think will do nothing to affect the air brush, though the 1/8th connector I have for the Badger 105 Patriot leaves some of the thread left. Anyways that is not my question.


Am I able to test this airbrush with water? I have airbrush cleaner coming, hopefully in a few days and not July 16-30th like the package says... I would like to test it to see if any air leaks out through anywhere and I would also like to test if paint leaks so I was hoping water would do that job.


Also I bought this compressor and I have no idea how to regulate? the PSI on it... Does anyone know how to do that? I am very new to airbrushing as one can see...

u/evlgeneus · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Master Airbrush Compressor

I don't have enough experience to definitively say whether I'd recommend it or not. My thought process was to get a good quality airbrush and pick a decently cheap compressor to learn on.

It seemed to work well enough this time around.

u/erichagz12 · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

I have this one and it never turns off. I bought it used elsewhere and can’t return. Ive read how to fix the problem of never turning off, but I haven’t figured it out yet. I don’t have anything to compare to, but it works really well besides never turning off.

u/hoplight · 1 pointr/modelmakers

Thanks for the input! I ended up increasing my budget and picked up this brush, and this compressor.

u/Terrasel · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Iwata Revolution CR, and as for a compressor: Try looking at this one

u/TrappistTripel · 1 pointr/modelmakers

Rancor gives some good advice. I've only started modeling for only over a year but I don't know how I would paint a kit without an airbrush. Iwata Neo and this Compressor is what I've been using and it has been working really well.

u/tagrav · 1 pointr/discgolf

yeah that's what I was worried about. this is the type of pen in question

I'm not sure it adds any thickness as a fingernail doesnt even seem to hitch on it :-/

u/SweatpantsHero · 1 pointr/Sneakers

I used a sharpie to clean up my soles, worked pretty well. I also saw these at my local target.

[White oil based sharpie]

u/JaguarDaSaul · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Anything with a tank and a moisture trap would work, like this one.

u/RX-79G · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Yo. So Im looking to upgrade my airbrush currently I have a paasche talon but I would like to upgrade to something better. I also want to upgrade my compressor too, I have this one currently Master Airbrush High Performance compressor But regarding that I also wanted to know if I should upgrade it or is it worth it to keep it. As far as a budget not looking to spend over 250$ for both. I'm just a little loss and looking for some help.
Tl;dr looking to upgrade airbrush and seeing if its worth to upgrade compressor. Budget 250

u/JUra88 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I ended up getting a Master Airbrush Compressor as recommended in the subreddit wiki


It's relatively easy to use, and not too loud!

u/MachNeu · 1 pointr/Gunpla

What's your budget?

This is the cheapest one that's frequently recommended here.

Your other option is finding a coupon for a compressor at harbor freight...but it won't be as quiet.

u/popopopoppo · 1 pointr/Gunpla
u/ashramsoji · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I wanna get into airbrushing as handpainting is too exhausting and many of the coolest looking kits i've seen have custom paint jobs. The world of airbrushes and compressors seems overwhelming, though. Can anyone recommend:

  • a brush and compressor
  • A starting set of paints -- I think my preference would be acrylic, as I already have a few Tamiya acrylics and thinner
  • Share some links about use and maintenance?

    I'm planning on getting the Badger 105 patriot and this Master airbrush compressor

    Is Amazon usually the best way to go?
u/XenaWarPrince · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Ya, after doing some more research myself, I found this air tank by Masters for ~$70 on Amazon. Paired with the Neo for Iwata I think I should be able to afford a setup with plenty to spare for paint.

Now I just have to figure out a vent system for Minnesota Winters :/ I guess I have a few months still?!

u/Thorvald1331 · 1 pointr/SWlegion

You're almost certainly going to ruin your first brushes, god knows I did, so don't buy anything too expensive. I'd recommend this set as a good starting point;

Also make sure to grab some brush soap to clean your brushes out;

Here's a vid on how to take care of your brushes and use the soap;

You should absolutely make a wet palette too, here's another vid;

As far as paints go, vallejo and citadel are probably your best option, both are very good brands of paint, some people tend to avoid citadel because they tend to cost a little more and if the jars aren't closed tightly they can dry out easily, so It's best to get what you can get both cheaper and the easier.

u/MurkMuffin · 1 pointr/minipainting


These will get you started for sure! 13 bucks (13.19 to be exact) and you'll continue to use these even after your brush collection grows.

u/HBreckel · 1 pointr/amiibo

I've heard acrylics or paint specifically made for painting miniatures is the way to go. I'm currently working on a Rockstar Pikachu and bought

For the black on him I actually used India Ink due to the fact it's archival and will last forever. I'm still waiting on the paint set to arrive so I can't comment on how good they are.

If you want to give your custom any sort of topcoat I highly recommend

There's a few different ones, gloss, semi gloss, matte. I personally go for matte as it gives models a nice touch of class. You don't have to use a topcoat, but it can add a little to the appearance of your custom. I use this topcoat all the time for Gundam models, just be careful of humid days if you use it.

u/Jushy79 · 1 pointr/minipainting

Honestly, those brushes should do just fine but I can’t guarantee it because I have never used them, imo 12 brushes seems a bit excessive but you do you. I bought the Army Painters Wargamers most wanted brush set . Honestly these have been the best for me, the insane detail brush is one of my all time favorites for detail and the regiment is great for any kind of base coating or medium-large size miniatures. The small drybrush is great for highlighting and (obviously) dry brushing if you’re into that (you should be).

u/Vonderboy · 1 pointr/Gunpla

No problem. Are they a good price? They aren't anything super special just good quality brushes for a decent price. That being said, this one is literally the 3 I would suggest, if not maybe the psycho for details. And that's a really good price since they'd be at least $12 separate at my local shop.

u/Cursed989 · 1 pointr/minipainting

I'm a big fan of Army Painter products. I've had pretty good luck with them so I'm kind of slanted towards them. So I recommend...

1- a set of these brushes.

2- Any of the Army Painter primers are good. But this is my favorite. Coats and covers well. Also works for a lot of different models.

3- A set of these have come in handy for me several times.

4- These clear bases are my favorite. I've rebased several figures with these. Love them for there ability to show the terrain the figure is standing on.

5- And a cheap basecoat sized brush for mixing paints and brushing on quickshades.

This is obviously just my opinion. But I hope it helps.

u/dpeterso · 1 pointr/modelmakers

I use 4 brushes for almost everything.

Most of mine are wargaming brushes, but with right care they last you a long time.

This kit right here is what I use and it can do basically everything I need.

I also have one LARGE cheap brush that is a piece of crap and use it to do all my dirty work with dioramas and the like. It's my real workhorse.

u/locorules · 1 pointr/rpg

As a starting point you should probably look into natural Sable Brushes, size 2 for basecoating and 0 or 0/2 for finer detailing. Make sure it has a good point. I am currently using these, the regiment brush is quite good.

Some mini painters will quickly mention Newton and Winsor 7 series brushes or Raphael Kolinsky sable brushes, which are more expensive, but I cannot confirm that, I have not tried Kolinsky sable brushes. Be sure to buy a nice brush cleaner to preserve your natural hair brushes.

Here is a nice unbiased information (mini painters tend to be fanboys on certain brands of paints and brushes) about brushes or this one by one of the best mini painters around, one of the comments mentions Toray brushes which are often used by minipainters

EDIT: Added the APJ link

u/gweezer · 1 pointr/minipainting

Like, it seems, everyone else, that was my starter too. It's supremely useful for basic paints that you'll use on everything, blacks, greys, whites, and browns, but it had little else for specific details. (Which was probably the point). Mine came with a yellow, blue, and green that I don't like and have already replaced (except the yellow because I just don't use the color enough to need to). No red.

I'm personally not a fan of the paints themselves, though. They work for the fact that you don't have the money to buy all those browns and blacks individually, but they're too runny for my tastes, separate really easy and are hard to get back, and I just don't like dropper bottles. I feel like a lot of paint is wasted for the fact that I can't just drip my brush in when I just need it for one or two little details.

That said, I'm still using most of them. I bought my own paints for skin tones and bright colors. I use the GW Citadel paints, I know some people think they're too expensive, but they're over all better quality than most other paints I've tried.

When you first go to get extra paints, try something in a tub instead of with a dropper, see which one you like best. It took me a little getting used to the tubs, but I hate the droppers now.

As is said, you'll want better brushes. What I used for a long while is This They're not exactly great quality but they're better than most basic cheap sets you'll get at a craft store. The exceptional low price comes with a month long shipping time, though. Right now I'm trying out Army Painter brushes I got that set and the Character and Pshyco brushes. I only just bought them so I can't say anything myself, but I've heard good things.

One thing the kit doesn't even mention, if I remember right, is sealer. When I first started I tried to get a basic art acrylic sealer from a craft store, but it stayed forever sticky and destroyed the first few minis I painted, which was a huge disappointment. Your local game store should be able to show you what they use. I use the Citadel Purity Seal simply because it's all that local store had, I couldn't compare it to other spray sealers. It has a mate finish, and you have to be really careful to not over-coat or you'll loose detail.

I also have a little tub of Citadel 'ardcoat which is a high gloss sealer. I use it on top of the spray for a couple details, like anything wet or metal highlights, but in my experience anything glossy has been tacky, so use sparingly if you use at all.

u/NarcissaMalfoy · 1 pointr/90daysgoal

Not sketching necessarily but for Christmas I got an [aquapen] ( and a [teeny tiny watercolor pad] ( I carry both in a little pouch with my teeny [tiny watercolor set] ( If I'm sitting and having coffee with someone for an extended period (like just a Sunday morning hang) I pull out the pouch. All I need is a napkin (i.e. no cup, no brush) and it's really unobtrusive. It keeps me from looking at my phone while I talk to people and relaxes me (and sometimes other people as well.)

u/morgan_mayhem · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

the duck is alive

I LOVE this stuff. It's like powdered Christmas. Big Train Spiced Chai

And now I can't stop thinking about how nice it'd be to be sipping on that while playing with these... Pentel Arts Aquash Water Brushes 😀

u/aokagi · 1 pointr/infp

Those were Aquash waterbrushes by the brand Pentel :)

It works like normal brushes you use for watercolor but with little barrel inside to store water.

u/starlaoverdrive · 1 pointr/monobo

I came across these Jane Davenport Mermaid Markers at Michael's when I went to pick up some Tombow brush pens. I went back and forth on buying them but in the end I caved. They're like any old refillable water brush, and it's way cheaper than buying 12 water brushes and filling them with fountain pen inks (I have one water brush dedicate to FP ink). They're a dye-based water soluable ink and the tips are bristles instead of a flexible marker tip. A little ink goes a long way so I can see these lasting for a long time before I need to refill them!


Also I love seeing /u/colette0101's posts and I need more art-doing in my life!

u/iSmellMusic · 1 pointr/somethingimade

I actually just got a few and I'm making a watercolor journal for my DnD character :D It's not as clean and pretty as yours though lol.

You ever think about using water brushes?

u/Espadaman · 1 pointr/Watercolor

For someone just starting out, quality paper is the most important thing followed by paint and brushes. I recommend shopping online as you'll pay 2-3x more locally (unless you have a Blick store nearby, they usually match their online prices) and you can set your girlfriend up nicely without breaking the bank. I'm not sure what you're looking to spend so I'll try to give you a decent range of options.


Cotman and Van Gogh are the student versions of professional brands (Winsor Newton & Rembrandt) and the most often suggested for beginners. They come in pans (dried paint blocks you swipe with a wet brush to reactivate) and tubes. Though these are student grade they're both used professionally and very high quality. They're lightfast (won't fade with exposure to sun), use the same pigments that the professional brands do (though with a smaller amount) and are both very reasonably priced. And if she enjoys painting and looks to upgrade in the future, she could pick up the Professional version with minimal relearning how the paint performs (All brands behave a little differently on paper).

Of the two I would suggest Van Gogh as they're extremely vibrant, the pans are very easy to rewet (Cotman pans are difficult to get pigment from in my experience, and for someone learning to paint having to scrub a pan with a brush will be frustrating. The tubes better.) and come in nice compact travel sets that have a built in palette for mixing. The Set of 12 Pans is plenty to start with, you can mix a wide variety of colors from that. The 18 pan + 2 tube set is a great option as well as it gives you a nice variety of warm and cool primaries as well as convenient greens and earth colors, it comes with a small brush and sponge, I'd go with that one. The larger sets of 30-48 aren't necessary as they're mostly colors that are mixed from the single pigment paints included in the smaller sets, but if you think she'd enjoy having a ton of colors available without having to mix those are something you can look at too.

If you wanna ball out a little bit and get her some professional paints, Da Vinci has a ton of pan and tube set options. The 12 Full Pan Set again has everything she'd need getting started. They're as good as any brand out there. The pans are also twice the size of the student brand options and will last a very long time.

There's a ton of great paints out there, I suggest these because they're great value as well as quality and don't include a lot of the weird and rarely used colors you find in a lot of sets. I'd go with pans because they're ready to go as soon as you open them, you don't have to wait for the tube paint to dry for a day or two before you can store it or take it with you, they're very attractive gifts that are nice to look at (if you look on youtube you'll see 100s of videos of people just opening them and showing them off) and you can refill them with your own tube paints later on once you know what you like and start building your own palette. This time of the year there's tons of deals out there so if you find a nice set of Winsor Newton or something on amazon that's a great snag as well. Just avoid "store" brands like Artist's Loft or Masters Touch, or the tons of really cheap chinese sets you'll find online.


100% Cotton is the way to go. It can handle any technique and can take a ton of water without buckling or falling apart. Even the nicest paint will appear dull on poor watercolor paper and they can't handle much water before they start to give out. It can be a little pricey but it's well worth it. Again there's tons of brands but Arches is the most used and it's excellent so I don't wanna bog you don't with a bunch of brands. You could also grab a 22x30 inch sheet of Arches and tear it into a variety of smaller sheets (this is the most common and frugal way). Cold press is medium textured, Hot Press is smooth and Rough is obvious. Cold press is the most versatile so I'd start there. I don't use sketchbooks but if you're looking for something like that I've heard these are good.


Brushes are personal preference, some people only use one for everything and some people like a variety of size and hair types. If you wanna keep it simple a 10 or 12 Round is a good workhorse that can handle small detail and a larger wash. There's sets if you wanna get her a few to see what she likes. Synthetic or a blend is where I'd start as real sable or squirrel is pretty expensive. There's water brushes that aren't "traditional" but are popular for sketching or coloring ink art and are easy to use.

Hope this helps!

u/WeaselStink · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

>Would you have a guess at consistency? Does a base coat like 50 paint / 50 water? Just an idea of an amount?

Depends on how thick the paint is, really. It can change from color to color, and even pot to pot. Varies with age of the paint too.

There is no magic ratio that I have found. It has to be mixed where it's thin enough to flow but still be able to stick. Too thick and it sputters, too thin and it goes on like a wash.

It's not that hard, just make adjustments as you're spraying.

>Damn! haha. Do the metal flakes give the brush issue?

Yes sir! Hit that one on the head.

>What is better? Do you use them both?

I use about 50/50 bottled water/vallejo flow improver.

Flow improver isn't cheap, but makes the paint stick a bit better.
Water is cheap, but turns the paint to a wash. 50/50 seems to work for me.

Kenny Boucher is the one that turned me on to the flow improver/water mix. He calls it "Gangsta Gumbo"

>When you say badger specific parts, do you mean replacement parts? How often do you have to replace pieces on them?

Mainly the oddball thread size where you connect your air supply from the compressor. The air hose was hard to find locally. Still ended up having to get some stuff from home depot to make it fit the compressor.

I think Iwata uses standard threads.

Replacement parts too, though that is true of any airbrush.

>What primer would you recommend using in your brush? I generally prefer a matte black.

Vallejo Surface Primer all day, baby! They have it in quite a few colors. I usually go with black.

>Are these small enough to place on my desk? I don't have much extra room in my office. Link to a decent one?

I find mine to be invaluable, I would not airbrush any other way. It is about 30" wide x 16" tall x 24" deep + hose that runs to the window out of the back of it. You will need a light for it.

edit After looking at the measurements on Amazon, it appears my memory for scale is borked. Is smaller than I said above.

>Thanks so much for taking the time to spread the knowledge!

No problem bud! The airbrush has saved me a ridiculous amount of time and made my models look far better.

u/dravenhavok · 1 pointr/minipainting

This airbrush booth is what I use as I also exclusively airbrush indoors. The fact that it folds into a neat little suitcase is a huge deal for me since I have very limited space.

u/Jberg18 · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

I've been using one of these for airbrushing (as well as using a mask) and it seems to work well. It should help glue fumes too if you vent it to outside.

u/chhappy7 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Selling - prices do not include shipping shipping will be via USPS flat rate, either small or medium (airbrush stuff probably large). Let me know if you want me to include box art and/or manual as well.

* RG Strike Freedom Wing of Skies Bandai - $20 I already tried it on for my RG SF

* RG Strike Freedom - $10 panel lined, decal'd. Parts of gold frame painted with gold

  • MG Unicorn OVA ver - $40 decal'd no panel line or top coat or paint; includes a Chinese knockoff Armed Armor DE

    * Master Airbrush® Brand Airbrush 3 in 1 Cleaning Pot-air Brush Holder-paint/car - $5+shipping; used once with the airbrush set link

    * Master Airbrush® Brand Portable Hobby Airbrush Spray Booth - $60+shipping; used once with the airbrush set; link

    * Master Airbrush Brand High Performance Multi-purpose Gravity Feed Dual-action Airbrush Kit with 6 Foot Hose and a Powerful 1/5hp Single Piston Quiet Air Compressor - $60+shipping; used once to put primer on a few parts for a car kit. link
u/cheese61292 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Some Compressor + Airbrush sets are good (like those from Pasche or Iwata) but it's all relative to your needs (as a good brush might not be good for Gunpla due to the scale) and what is offered.

There's actually a very good deal going on right now, as you can get a Paasche TG-3F with Compressor and all your needed accessories + Prime shipping (or free Super Saver shipping.)

With this set you have all you need to functionally airbrush but you'll also want to pick up some needed "accessories" for you.

  • Respirator, at least a half mask - Local Hardware Store for best options
  • P100 Filters - same as above
  • Alligator Clips on Sticks - you can pick them up at Hardware or Hobby Stores locally as well
  • Foam Block to put the skewers into and hold up the parts while you paint. Local hobby store, or if you have the packaging material used to ship heavy electronics like TVs that would work as well.
  • Spray Booth, if you plan to spray inside at least
  • Airbrush Lube, Iwata SuperLube or Badger Needle Juice
  • Cleaning Brushes, just part of your more in depth cleaning routine that you'll need to do.

    You will also want to pick up some glass jars (for storing & mixing paints) as well as some plastic pipes for more accurate paint measurements (makes the jars less messy as well.)

    I highly suggest getting an easy to clean brand of paint like Vallejo Air to start with, so you can learn with less trouble as Vallejo can be cleaned up in an instant with Windex or water.
u/dragonxx21 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Man you guys have it good in the US. Those kits are way more expensive in Canada :P That spray booth looks great! Too bad it's twice the price on D: \

Edit: How often do you worry about that thing blowing up?

u/fuzzy_one · 1 pointr/cosplay

There is but it is challenging... and can get expensive. Here are some options.

  • Construct one - You can make a frame out of wood, depending on the size, you can use square dowels or even 2x4’s for large ones. You can use a heavy gauge plastic drop cloth for all the sides. A cheap fan can help you vent the overspray out a window or door.

  • Buy One You can buy spray booths like this one, from multiple sources such as amazon. Problem will be getting one the right size with out getting overly expensive.

    Either way the largest challenge will be dealing with overspray that will be in the exhaust from the booth.

  • You need a fan that is strong enough to pull air through the fan and not allow paint out the front of the booth.

  • You also don’t want to rain paint down on people or property below your vent. You can catch some of it out by using an air filter between the spray booth and exhaust fan, but the more they can catch, the more expensive filters will be.
u/Spiridios · 1 pointr/ResinCasting

I have one of these hobby spray booths setup in my garage for winter painting. I didn't spend that much on it though, they can be had cheaper on ebay. The switch went bad on mine, so I had it open. It's just a large computer box fan, a duct, a filter, and some shielding, so if you're handy you could probably build one.

u/weableandbob · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Looking to set up a spray area in my apartment in the near future, but first a couple of questions:

  1. The area I have to work with is about 10 x 10 feet, outside of which I have things that I don't want to get any sort of paint dust on. Is it safe to assume that any overspray won't be able to make it that far as long as I have a proper spray booth?

  2. Does anyone have any experience with this spray booth? I'm aware that building your own is cheaper, but I'm fine paying extra to save time as long as the pre-built option does its job well enough.
u/kablaq · 1 pointr/Warhammer

For airbrushes, I'm personally a fan of the Neo by Iwata, especially their gravity feed (cup) model. The brush is well built, fairly easy to take apart and clean, and has very few issues with most paints and other products you may put through it.

I picked mine up on sale for around $50, and if you have a Michael's or Hobby Lobby nearby, you may be able to pick it for less with one of their one-item coupons they release occasionally. It's also nice if you have a hobby store near by as you can drop in a pick up replacement needles or nibs if you accidentally drop it >.>; . Needles and nibs typically cost in the 10-15 dollar range for replacements, so not too terrible.

For compressors, a simple compressor with a tank will work wonderfully, so long as it has a proper pressure regulator and water trap. I have this compressor and it works well, after I got the correct airbrush hose to attach to the NEO.

There are a couple extra tools that can help with airbrushing as well, but most can be picked up at a later point. Something I would recommend that you get with the initial purchase is a spray booth. This allows you a place to spray into and capture many of the errant particles of paint from your airbrush. Combined with a proper respirator mask, it will ensure that you don't breath in any of the particulate from airbrushing, and hopefully don't have airbrush paints drying on items they weren't directly sprayed on. I would say of the two, the mask is the most important to have.

A quick-disconnect is useful for cleaning and swapping airbrushes, but isn't really necessary at first. A cleaning pot is also useful as it gives you a dedicated space to spray out leftover paint and cleaing fluid, and should stay fairly contained.

I would also look at purchasing a ultrasonic cleaner further on, as it is amazingly helpful for cleaning the airbrush when paint has leaked into the body, or spilled into places it shouldn't be.

Other's can probably offer advice as well, but that's what I currently use. Hope this helps!

u/grrcracker · 1 pointr/Gunpla

So still a work in progress. But I figured I would post up what I have so far. Had a catastrophic failure on the hands, broke the outer pieces that the fingers snap in to. Have some touch ups to do and stripping and repainting on the skirts in the works also. Still need to decal, top coat and panel line. But pretty happy with how things are turning out. This is the airbrush kit I am using, along with this hood and if you don't have one of these lamps, do yourself a favor and pick on up. They are awesome.

u/isforza3outyet · 1 pointr/minipainting

I got an airbrush for Christmas and picked this up:
It is a fold- up airbrush station that blows the paint fumes out the window. Maybe that would work? I havent tried it yet, because my airbrush is in the mail.

u/TurboCooler · 1 pointr/minipainting

Spray booth with a filter. Something like this on Amazon

u/Sparkdog · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I'm looking to get a spray booth for airbrushing. Amazon has a bunch of those fold-up all-in-one booths like this in the $90-$120 range. I'm wondering if anyone can vouch for their effectiveness. It just needs to do an OK job venting lacquer fumes from an airbrush, I won't be using any spray cans with it.

If those things are junk, I'm wondering if anyone has built one of those DIY plastic bin type booths, and can recommend a good, budget-priced fan to use.

u/jyoon673 · 1 pointr/ArticulatedPlastic

This is a must have if you want to airbrush - I have the same kit and the key is to always clean after every session or between colors - I usually run thinner, then windshield washer fluid (or windex original - with ammonia), and water (repeat until the airbrush spews clear) - no need to buy specific airbrush cleaner solutions

If your compressor doesn't turn on when you plug it in, you need to increase the pressure (lift and twist the black knob and turn towards the plus sign - 25-30psi will be fine)

A lot of people use Citadel but I'm more used to Tamiya but the concept is the same - thin paints (in general 1:1 paint:thinner) prior to airbrushing

I would stick to the dual-action guns over the single-action in that kit since the former has more utility and control - I haven't found a use for single-action yet but I'm sure there is - all you need to know is pushing down the trigger controls air flow while pulling up on the trigger controls how much paint comes out - practice on paper first

I've heard that using windex is a great alternative to using thinner for acrylic paints but I haven't tried yet - if so, then it's a great money saver

I would also look into a airbrush booth if you plan to paint indoors to collect the fumes - I have the generic portable one and it works great (

r/modelmakers has a great post on airbrushing if you need further help including how to and maintenance

u/bkoon1218 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

So, I was thinking of starting my airbrushing career with this. I only plan on using Vallejo air colors with a respirator mask. Do I need to get the venting tube?

u/vodka-and-espresso · 1 pointr/Warhammer

Only thing I recommend is picking up some drop cloths to make clean-up easier; it's not nearly as bad as spray paint, but some particles will still cover the ground. I bought this to use with it, and it's greatly reduced dusting.

u/ducttapealien · 1 pointr/Gunpla

This spray booth might be what you need.

The hose can be closed in a window to vent most of the fumes. I would still recommend taking precautions to guard against mist getting on other things in the room but I use this booth in my basement and vent it like a dryer and it work fine. It is not overly large and it closes up into a compact form for storage.

u/Beginning_Gunpla · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I recommend either the thin panel lining markers in grey, black, and brown or a set of real touch markers that has those three colors

I panel lined with a set of panel lining markers for quite a while and only recently tried using real touch markers for panel lines and while the panel lining markers work pretty good I think I prefer real touch markers

The real touch markers are initially messier to apply but I think they clean up nicer just using like a qtip and make for some nice sharp looking lines

Probably not as good as a panel wash but I like them so far

Edit: here is a black panel lining marker

u/DScottyP · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Otherwise a black fine tip gundam maker would also work, such as this!

Granted the link I sent you is the US Amazon site, but I've used it on my own Petitgguys with nothing more than a bit of over drawing that is easily cleaned up with a cotton swab.

u/DrakonLitshed · 1 pointr/Gunpla

If you don't already have a proper tool kit like This you'll want to get one, when i first started i just used household tools like scissors and my kit's came out horrible with nub marks all over the place. The file or some sandpaper will work wonders to remove those. You'll also want a panel line marker like This they come in different colors so look around to get the one that matches the model your working on, adding panel lines alone greatly improves the look of the model. After you have the nub mark removal and panel lining down the sky is the limit you can dabble in custom painting or try your hand at kitbashing custom models. Research each thoroughly before trying them and expect a lot of errors at first if you try those.

u/Buchanator · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I'm using the Black Gundam Marker. I did a lot of cleaning on the kit when I messed up but I just couldn't get it right. My main issue was that I made sure to do it lightly but it went on so thick, and I always have shaky hands so that never helped the situation.

EDIT: This is the marker I use

u/scotkav · 1 pointr/Gunpla

GM01 Black Fine Line

Gundam Marker GM02 Gray Fine Tip GUNPLA

Grey on white and light colours black on darker colours

u/Reapercore · 1 pointr/modelmakers

Nice! Can't wait to see it decaled.

You can either mask it off with Tamiya masking tape (they do curved tape too), paint very carefully with a thin brush, or use a Gundam lining marker pen to do it.

u/TriliumGunpla · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Hi. 2 questions.

1). Are these kits all legit/genuine gunpla, or are there any knock offs/bootlegs?

2). If i panel line with this do I need a top coat? Ive heard it dries and ive heard it doesnt and needs top coat.


u/honda_fast · 1 pointr/ModelCars

I use this:

Loved it so much I bought another one to increase the size! One is enough for all cars and most planes. If you like to built huge 1/48 planes you'll need two pushed together.

u/cacaus · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Can I use an aluminum or pvc viynl hose to replace my plastic hose in my airbrush station?

I have this airbrush station and due to long time being stored on my window, the sun has made the plastic hose dry out and crack. I am looking for a replacement and can't find any with just the 4inch diameter plastic hose. However I do see some 4 inch diameter exhaust hoses made with different material (aluminum / pvc viynl). Can I use one of those instead of having to a replacement for the whole plastic hose unit? Which one would be best?

u/MiscalculatedRisk · 1 pointr/minipainting

You really want a spray booth not so much to avoid spraying other objects, but to avoid inhaling paint particles that can fly back into your face.

Here is what my buddy bought it's very compact and works well, I've used it myself as well.

u/n0vast0rm · 1 pointr/modelmakers

>is there any advice you guys could give me so that I end up ruining the finish on my kits?

Why certainly, just spray with tar thinned with engine oil, i garuantee you will end up ruining the finish on your kits =D

On topic though since i'm not much of a DIY-er and looking for a spray booth myself, i've found they don't have to be very expensive.
Example 1
Example 2

Those have a hose that you can hang out the window making ventilation no longer a problem.
Disclaimer though: i'm still looking and haven't actually used any of these nor done much research into them yet so they might be utter crap, but hopefully some fellow modelers will have experience?

u/hatgineer · 1 pointr/modelmakers

You are right that acrylics are relatively safe. You still don't want to breathe in the particles though. Just get one of them spray booths and extend the hose with something similar from Home Depot.

u/AsymmetricCats · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Yet another question about paints! I'm grabbing some Mr Color paints (because the stuff I want to do does not have an applicable Tamiya paint mixture laid out anywhere and I don't want to try 'eyeballing' shades just yet) but I have one small worry about them.

How bad ARE the fumes? I live in an apartment that's a pretty decent size and my current gunpla workroom is large but has no windows. So how much trouble am I signing up for here? I've been eying this thing here : but again, no nearby windows to run the piping to. Would it be okay to just run it out the door of the small(er) room into my larger room, which does have a patio door I can open for natural ventilation, or is that also too little?

I just really don't want to end up making myself sick for my hobby.

u/DevilsArms · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Ive used it twice. Imo, for its cost and size, it gets the job done. I have a pretty cramped space, so being able to collapse it and store it has been pretty helpful. I opted the one that came with attachable LED lights. The lights help, but make it a little hard to see sometimes due to the color of the LEDs.

Though, I may have a different brand than OP.

Spray booth

u/chiggachiggameowmeow · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I just set up a teeny airbrush/gunpla work desk in a carpeted spare bedroom. My wife will lose her shit if I get paint ANYwhere on the carpet or guest bed. For now, I plan to only spray Future clear and some flat coats before gradually moving on to Tamiya acrylics (and perhaps Gaia lacquers). Other than what I have below - can anyone suggest some tips for maintaining a CLEAN and efficient small work area?

  • Drop cloth on table and floor just underneath desk
  • Airbrush spray booth with an exhaust to the window
  • Air purifier and desk fan
u/Marth171 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

This was the set that I initially purchased. The air brushes that came with the kit are a little on the cheap side but they were good for me to learn with.

This is the spray booth that I purchased a little while ago. So far the booth has been great. I'm able to spray indoors, both rattle cans and my airbrush. You just have to change the filter every once in a while, and I think the filters are ~$10.

I recently purchased this airbrush. I havent been able to use it yet though because I need an adapter to use it with the hose for my compressor.

u/exploited751 · 1 pointr/Tau40K

This is the booth I have, I really like it, it lights up really well, the fan suction is no where near strong enough to effect sprays or move light pieces but enough to keep the particles and such going out of it:

u/bibs4353 · 1 pointr/Warhammer

please take into account the air compressor too. It can have a major impact on your airbrushing experiences. There are some decent starting ones like:

I used this one for quite awhile with pretty good results but it is loud. I ended up recently buying an iwata compressor and it is super nice but they are expensive.

u/Logosmonkey · 1 pointr/minipainting

Master Airbrush Model TC-40T - Cool Runner Professional High Performance Single-Piston Airbrush Air Compressor with 3-Liter Air Tank, 2 Holders, Regulator, Gauge, Water Trap Filter & Air Hose

This one is awesome.

u/dvfex · 1 pointr/minipainting

If you want a small compressor you want something like this. They come with and without the airtank but if you're willing to shell out the bucks one with a tank is a better option. The one you've linked isn't really suitable to your needs. You could look at a deal like this one and then get a better airbrush as your next purchase. As well, check out sites like harborfreight, they often have deals on compressors.

u/StoryofReddit · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

I just went through this myself and am very happy with my purchases. This is a complete entry level set with the tools you will need to maintain it. Assuming you're US based, you could have everything Monday with Prime shipping.

  • Airbrush - $27 - This is a basic brush with the ability to change between 0.2, 0.3(most common), and 0.5mm tips. This gives you the flexibility to go from precise to blanket applications.

  • Compressor - $120 - I opted for a model with a tank to help regulate the air output. The compressor still ends up running most of the time during extended applications so I'm not sure how much it helps but I didn't want to take chances. You could save ~$40 by getting a model without a tank. You could always add a tank later if you feel the need.

  • Cleaner - $12 - You need this before you even think about starting. One cleaner seems about as good as another so pick whatever.

  • Tools - $7 - You will need to clean paint from the internals. Some of these brushes will work for that. There seems to be differing opinions in the community over how useful these are but I opted for them and use them every so often.

  • Cleaning Pot - $15 - You will need one for your station and everyone uses this one. Definitely spray the cleaner through into this.

  • Wash Bottle - $6 - 500 mL bottle you fill with water. This will allow you to rinse the pot at your station without having to go to a sink (though you still might use one often). Get a bucket or tupperware container to rinse into.

    This will allow you to setup a bare-bones station. You could also get a fume hood or just spray into a box in a well ventilated room. Get a good white led light (if you don't have on already) to illuminate your workspace and you're good to go.
u/KMTiger74 · 1 pointr/modelmakers

u/didgeboy and u/Monti21 make valid points. I picked up an inexpensive air compressor and cheap airbursh from Amazon. While the compressor is has turned out to be very nice - quiet, easily adjustable - I upgraded to an Iwata Neo and haven't touched the cheap airbrush since. I've picked up a second Neo, and am now looking to buy something for more detailed work. Paint flow through the better airbrushes is much more consistent. I've really enjoyed the learning curve!

u/mjdailey · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Thanks for the suggestion! Saw a few people complain about that unit getting too hot so I spent a little more to get their TC-40T model which has a built in fan.

u/NeoFarseer · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

This have a tank this dont No tank, its a tank that storage ari so when you are spriying isn't always on. If he doesn't have a tank its always taking air and doing noise and also it hots faster.

u/jsullivandigs · 1 pointr/airbrush

I was thinking something along these lines:

ZENY Pro 1/5 HP Airbrush Air Compressor Airbrushing Kit w/ 3L Tank and 6FT Hose Multipurpose for Hobby Paint Cake Tattoo Nail

Not sure what you could do to make it quieter. Maybe sit it on a towel to absorb some of the vibration or something like that?

u/Riboflavin01 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I think I decided to bite the bullet and just get an airbrush. Here is the setup I was looking at:



Just wondering what your thoughts are on this combo and if I need any other adapters/hoses/etc or if these two items will cover it. Also in regards to thinning the Mr. Color paints for the airbrush, what ratio of paint/thinner/leveling thinner should I mix at? (I am in a hot and dry climate)

u/wingsofsarrow · 1 pointr/minipainting

Would This be a good compressor

u/PhillipTang · 1 pointr/buildapc

I bought this air compressor for airbrushing model kits. I was wondering if I could also use it to dust out my PC. It comes with a moisture trap, but I'm not exactly sure how to deliver the air.

My first thought would be to just use my airbrush, assuming it's completely dry (I can run IPA through it to ensure it's dry) and letting the PC dry overnight (just for added safety), would this be a good idea? Or should I buy a cheap airgun instead?

u/BigDKinabox · 1 pointr/minipainting

$65 found this compressor with a tank. Would any of you guys be able to verify that this doesn’t need any adapters to work with an eclipse?

Also has anyone tried the ultra for 100 in comparison to eclipse?

Thanks you guys for getting me pointed in the right direction, there’s an eclipse at Blick right now for $150 and pending any reviews on the ultra I’ll be picking that up!

u/madigital1 · 1 pointr/airbrush

ZENY Pro 1/5 HP Airbrush Air Compressor Airbrushing Kit w/ 3L Tank and 6FT Hose Multipurpose for Hobby Paint Cake Tattoo Nail

Own it myself. External tank and . . . Do I even have to mention the price. Nice unit.

u/Adorable_Admiral · 1 pointr/modelmakers

A lot of airbrush compressors you will find are the same Chinese model that has been rebranded. You won't notice any difference in the amount of air pumped or volume it holds so your best bet is to go with the cheapest option on the market.

u/PeashyKanna · 1 pointr/modelmakers

I use an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS (the gravity feed one, and not the CN knockoff) and it works pretty good. My nozzle clogs up every now and again if I've got my thinning slightly off but otherwise, no major problems yet. I ended up picking up the compressor that was discussed here on the wiki and it works pretty well so far, and it's quiet enough that you can't hear it in the room next door. I live in a townhouse so that was really important for me. As with anything though, see what works for you and read reviews. This Amazon link is the exact one that I bought (and according to honey, its about 30% now than it was a month ago, so good time to buy lol).

u/NecroGi · 1 pointr/minipainting

Beginning Paint Set

Good Beginner Brushes

Palette I still use

This should get you started, the only other thing I'd suggest is getting a black wash (I use citadel paints so I use Nuln Oil, unsure what the technical term for it is). The thing is, I've purchased a ton of stuff. A TON OF STUFF. I never ended up using the Dry Paint set that I got, out of all of the washes I only use two of them on a regular basis and I use expensive brushes now. If you're just starting out it's better to use these synthetic brushes because they're cheaper and you don't have to worry too much if they get ruined. Expensive brushes are great, but you won't know why until you get better.

u/TheWeedsiah · 1 pointr/minipainting

I first bought this set when i started

Gives you a ton of brushes and you dont have to worry about what happens to them. You will mess them up and learn why. I also think having some cheap sythetics like the ones michaels sells (if in us) is helpful. Synthetic sucks because it doesnt hold much paint but that doesnt mean they cant serve a purpose because they have more spring usually and dont fray at tio as quick. There are several other bruah packs on amazon comprable and maybe better then what i listed. I literally just got my windsor brushes today in mail so i cant comment how much better they are but i know i would have destroyed them if i got them when i started. Its a nice way to reward yourdelf after a few months painting

u/LeFouHibou · 1 pointr/SWlegion

Legion is my first miniature game as well! A buddy of mine recommended a army painter set when I first started. To be honest they are not that great and a couple of the brushes have fallen apart. I have been eyeing these brushes on amazon:

they seem like a nice set! Those vallejo paints will work perfectly, I have a few of them and I really like their product. Citadel paints (in my opinion) are top tier paint quality wise. If you dont want to shell out the "Citadel Tax" for them, vallejo is an awesome product for the price.

u/Oghrim05 · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

Great advice thank you. I got a set of 12 synthetic detail brushes on amazon for a little over $20 that seems like a great jumping-off point:

Once I am more confident in my brush care I will spring for W/N. I got the pick of masters brush cleaner too, and set up a wet palette in a small Tupperware box the way I saw on the Tabletop Minions channel:

Airbrushing still seems miles away (advanced) and I don’t think I have a workstation set up for it. I’m going to rattle-can prime the dark imperium box next.

u/Hurleyburleyalters · 1 pointr/mtgaltered

What about buying thicker handled brushes? Or putting pencil grippies on them.

Edit: Like these

u/taillesspigeon4 · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

This brush set was the single best (and one of the cheapest), investments I made early on in this hobby. There's a great variety of sizes and styles, and it really let's you figure out what you're comfortable with.

u/StubbsMcNolegs · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

Detail Paint Brush Set 12pc Minute Series XII Miniature Brushes for Fine Detailing & Art Painting.

If these ever come back in stock, they are really nice brushes for the money. Been using them almost exclusively recently. They get more use than my Windsor and Newton brushes.

u/twotonkatrucks · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Hi all. I was thinking about easing my way into painting by way of brush painting details. I'm just looking for recommendation on brushes and set of paints.

In particular, I've read good reviews about the D'Artisan Shoppe's set - is it worth the price?

u/Ouranox · 1 pointr/Sneakers

I used an oil based marker, more specifically this one. I made a previous post showing the before and after here. The good thing about this method is that there's no cracking since it's ink not paint although I'm still waiting to see how long it takes before the ink wears out after wear.

u/spmusik · 1 pointr/Sneakers

I’ve done exactly this on 3 pairs of boost kicks.


u/4_jacks · 1 pointr/BMWZ4

4 coats with the Sharpie and then use the razor to scrap away all the places I messed up.

Forgive the dirty wheels.

u/pinkb0xes · 1 pointr/adidas

There is a thread going on Nike Talk right now regarding this. Someone mentioned using one of these:

u/extracreddit45 · 1 pointr/Sneakers
u/afipanic · 1 pointr/Sneakers

I use this type of sharpie to paint my boost back to white on other pairs. They have a black, you could give it ago and see what happens.

u/Ftzzey · 1 pointr/Warhammer

Don't use GW brand brushes or tools as they are over-priced. Middle of the road quality for near premium prices. Just get yourself a xacto for trimming and some generic hobby clippers.

For paints you should at least look at vallejo and reaper (way better bottle design). Opinions differ but I think Reaper beats them all aside from metallics where GW are head and shoulders over everyone else. Also THIN YOUR PAINTS AND USE A WET PALLET.

Jokes aside a wet pallet, whether DIY parchment paper or store bought, make blending so much easier for a new painter and is my number one suggestion for those just starting out.

For brushes there is a huge range in price (with GW near the top) and quality (GW near the bottome here). Army painter is my go to for synthetic brushes with Kolinsky being the generally held gold standard sable brushes (sable hair forms a finer point). Pick up a set of army painter's (they also have helpful descriptive names rather than numbers) look after them with this magic stuff (you can probaly get it cheaper elsewhere but it last forever anyway) and then see if you want to upgrade later.

Have fun!

u/Doc_Serious · 1 pointr/minipainting

As you improve in the hobby you will find yourself using bigger brushes. A size 2 or even a 3 with a good point will serve you better than anything 0 or smaller. Even for most detail.

It's not the size of the brush you use, but the size and shape of the point. I found this myself through experience as I started off painting with the smallest brush I could but the problems you run into using a small brush are threefold :

Paint dries before you can get it on the model, leading to clumps of pigment instead of smooth coats.

Small brushes tend to more easily leave brush strokes showing on your model, especially on flat areas.

Models just take longer to paint, less finished models = slower improvement :)

Sounds like you are heading in the right direction though, next up treat yourself to some brush soap for example: General Pencil The Master's Brush Cleaner & Preserver-1oz

Your brushes will thank you :)

Finally and most importantly, feel free to disregard any advice you may get and just dive in and go your own way. The most important thing about the hobby is to have fun and enjoy it!

u/lizzieisrad · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Really? That long? He must be something special! I also appreciate any usage of the word "Huzzah", 50 internet rad points for you!

This isn't really funny but I've spent so much time here

Here's a much needed item if I were to win: Brush cleaner

u/Vladkar · 1 pointr/Warhammer

Get some Master's Brush Cleaner and Preserver. Use it to wash the brush, then use some to form a tip before storage. Works really well.

u/katydid767 · 1 pointr/MakeupAddiction

I use Cinema Secrets for my brushes, and this paintbrush soap for sponges and deep cleanings

They sell that soap at Michael's, too, and there's always coupons available. There's a nice lemony smell, as well

u/ApocMeow · 1 pointr/Warhammer

If you can get this stuff your brushes will last a long time and you'll probably never run out of cleaner - link

u/clueing4looks · 1 pointr/muacjdiscussion

Eh, I'm kinda lazy and don't wash all my brushes every time but I try to wash the high-use ones semi regularly. I usually wash two or three at a time when I'm doing my skincare and waiting for actives (acids, enzymes) to work. Depending on the type of product, that could be 8 to 20 mins.

Based on a recommendation on MuA a long time ago, I use a [solid brush soap] ( and a [silicone half-egg] ( thing I got from Daiso. I fill the soap's cap with water, press my brush in the water to wet it, swirl it around in the soap, and then swirl it around on the egg. Rinse and repeat until there is no more colour in the soap lather and the brush is clean. I find that bushes used with liquid / cream products take a few times to get properly clean while brushes used with powder products are clean after 2 passes, at the most. It's just the nature of the beast, especially if it's a lot of long-wearing, heavy coverage stuff.

After that, I gently press the excess water out, shape the brush head, and leave the brush on a shelf (with the bristles sticking out over the edge) to dry.

u/sosoconsistent · 1 pointr/RandomActsofMakeup

Congratulations on making the BIG MONEY!!! Seriously, is everyone in the office bowing down and singing your praises?

If I were to win your raffle, I would like this for cleaning brushes and this for cleaning mah fayce! Thank you so much for hosting!

u/atticlynx · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

Yes, yours is a better deal, the exact one I got was this listing. The packaging on the one you found reads more or less identical minus a website so I imagine it might be from older supply explaining the lower prices for volume.

u/oonooneoo · 1 pointr/minipainting

Brush soap will help keep your brushes going longer. Working a wet brush across the cake then swirling the lathered bristles against the palm of your hand breaks up any paint in the belly of the brush or that has dried on the bristles. Rinse, add a little more soap, then shape the clean brush to a point and let it dry. Used at the end of your painting session, it'll extend the life of your brushes by months or even years. I swear by The Master's Brush Cleaner.

Varnish protects the paint job, reducing chipping and wear. PVC figures actually hold up pretty well without it, but I recommend using it anyway to get the most mileage possible out of your figures. It comes in gloss, satin, and matte. Matte is my preference because it doesn't interfere with the shadows and highlights as much as a shinier option.

u/Stah01 · 1 pointr/minipainting

I dont mean this to sound bad but are you mixing the paints with your series 7? I personally use junk brushes to mix colors, than use the series 7 to paint.

Other than that I dont usually have a problem and once a week I hand wash my brushes in Brush cleaner

One last thing, and its a bit gross =P But I am practicing 2 brush blending while I learn how to paint and the tip they all say to use is to suck on your brush tips and use your saliva to help move the paint. I also wonder if this doesnt help keep the paint out of the ferrule. Again, it sounds awful and gross but I think it works (and its not that bad). Just brush your teeth before you do it =D

u/Sabresteel · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

So Windsor Newton series 7 are beautiful and super long lasting if well treated.

Even just one size 1 is better than a bunch of varied cheaper brushes as they keep their point.

Also Masters brush cleaners is miraculous. De gunks gunk you didn't even know was gunking :)

u/emerilise · 1 pointr/RandomActsofMakeup

I'm also not dressing up this halloween, but I am going to be doing my sister's zombie makeup for her choir concert! I'm going to be taking major tips from that one zombie look in /r/makeupaddiction from /u/sssamanthaa. Here's to hoping that it'll be spooky scary!

Would really like to get this. It's cheaper, and shipping is free from -Supermart.

u/Borken2 · 1 pointr/MiddleEarthMiniatures

Definitely not a cheap alternative, but for a long lasting and high quality alternative I would always recommend Winsor & Newton Series 7 brushes. The size 1 is a good all rounder, and the brush I use the most. It strikes a good balance of being thin enough to do details, but large enough so the paint doesn't dry out on the tip straight away.


You could likely do everything you want to do with just a size 1 W&N brush, and one other cheaper, bigger brush for basing (for example the citadel large base brush).


Raphael also make good brushes, but I find the belly of the bristles to be a bit too fat for my liking.


If you are going to buy a more expensive brush, I also recommend picking up some brush cleaner. It really helps to extend the life of your brushes.

u/oitoitoi · 1 pointr/wargames

No problem I'm always happy to help people with their hobby.

I'd actually recommend getting some miniatures and paints first. The hobby really is about the models and the spectacle, if you don't enjoy them as objects you probably won't enjoy the rest. Pick the models you like the most and go from there. Also literally a table cloth with some boxes on is enough to have a go at most game systems, so I wouldn't worry too much about terrain for the time being.

In terms of game system it sounds like might be the ideal game for you, it's pretty easy to pick up, well supported by warlord games (they do global campaigns for it which is very cool), you don't need a ton of models and it's very fun and popular. I'd pick up maybe a box of infantry (or a starter army if you're willing to make the investment) and the rule book (warlord books are beautiful). I'd also recommend r/boltaction, it might be worth posting a question there. Warlord games also has their own forum where you can ask questions, a good place for beginners. Also use youtube, it's become an excellent resource for wargamers, you'll be able to find introductory videos, battle reports and all sorts.

I wouldn't buy that paint set, paint's are expensive and they rack up pretty fast, I'd buy the paints you need for the models you have. Get vallejo paints, they tend to be the best for historicals. After you've decided what models you want to buy I'd post a question there asking exactly which paints to get to paint them 'correctly'. Some historical gamers are very finnicky about uniforms being perfect, I'm not one of them, but it is nice to be broadly accurate. If you want to be perfect check out these books are like the painting guides for historical models. Many are even designed based on their art.

Brushes; this is an area that I believe it is worth spending a bit more money, good brushes will last (provided you maintain them) and will improve your painting experience enormously. Although I occasionally paint commissions so my perspective is a little different. I'd recommend Windsor Newton Series 7 brushes (better for detail) or Raphael Kolinsky brushes (better for blending, harder to get though). To start with just get one for normal painting (windsor newton size 0), and one for fine detail (windsor newton size 0 or 00) should do. I'd strongly recommend getting to keep your brushes clean and to help maintain their point. These are natural fibre brushes so after cleaning it's a good idea just to dip them in some hair conditioner so prevent them drying out too much, then rinse them clean. I use this stuff The beginner synthetic brushes most people use are frankly a waste of money. The best tip I can give you regarding painting though is to always thin your paints, either with water or Vallejo Glaze Medium. Also don't forget to spray prime your models, citadel or army painter sprays are good for this, most people use black. Look up zenithal priming if you want to get fancy.

Terrain's broadly split into 2 categories, static terrain, and moveable terrain. Static terrain is usually what you'll see in magazines, dioramas in museums etc. An entirely modelled board. When done well it looks incredible, the pinnacle of the hobby. one of my favourites, the British siege of Badajoz in 1812 during the Peninsular Campaign. a medieval conflict.

The only problem is when it's your table and you play most of your games on it, playing in the identical village/farmstead can get a bit dull. Also storing static terrain tends to be really hard. So we move onto moveable or modular terrain, which what most people use and I'd definitely recommend. This consists of having buildings, forest etc on bases that you can move around to mix up your games. It's also very cheap generally, e.g. take a beard trimmer to a doormat, and voila, you now have a ploughed field, spray/dye some towelling material green and you have great looking grass. An example

I still use pasting tables as my table, they are 6ft x 2ft, fold away and are very cheap, I'm not sure what they're called in the us but this is what I mean:

Get 2 of those. Then place 3 4x2 plywood sheets on them, cloth on top of that, and there you have a cheap, good 6x4 starter table that is fast to set up and put away. Then populate it with terrain, model railway terrain is great for things like trees and much cheaper than specialist wargame terrain. You can always upgrade to more complex modular boards later using the plywood you bought.

Anyway sorry if that was a bit in depth, hope it was useful.

To recap:

  1. Buy some miniatures, preferably a box of infantry or a starter army, choose the models you like best. Get the bolt action rulebook.

  2. Post a question on r/boltaction or the warlord games forum asking for which colours to use, get those ones. You can worry about basing them later. Get some good brushes and some cleaner.

  3. Get some cheap folding tables, some plywood, and some fabric of your choice (depending on where you want to be fighting, snow's my favourite) and some model railway trees.

  4. Get things together, and have a crack at the game with your friends!

    P.S. beer and wargaming are a good combination.

    P.P.S. look for wargaming clubs in your area, there are a lot more than you may think, and are great places to meet other gamers, try different systems and get advice.
u/ProgenitorX · 1 pointr/minipainting

Highly recommend getting this to get started: Reaper Bones Learn to Paint Kit

Also, if you want to make your life a little easier, consider making or buying a wet palette, a nice Sable brush, and definitely some Master's Brush Cleaner.


If you're just painting the one mini, you can get Reaper paints and use their online tool to decide which colors to get.

u/floweronwall · 1 pointr/MakeupAddiction

'The Masters' Brush Cleaner. It's sold on amazon for $5.19 the smallest size.

This stuff gets it clean like BRAND NEW.

u/StormTheGates · 1 pointr/Warhammer

Its been mentioned before, but I also second the suggestion of the Windsor & Newton series 7 brushes. Get him a 1 point or a 3 point.

Also there is this cheap but extremely effective brush cleaner that can help repair old brushes and maintain new ones

u/The_cogwheel · 1 pointr/airbrush

If this was the kit you're looking at then I should warn you that it is missing the compressor. If you already have an air compressor capable of producing a steady 20PSI then you'll be good to go, but if you still need a compressor them, fair warning: the compressor can be just as expensive as the airbrush itself - which is probably why they didnt include one in that kit. Asside from a missing compressor, it does look like a solid kit

u/Wood_Eye · 1 pointr/minipainting

Thank you for the response. How much time do you usually airbrush for? Do you do a lot of detail work with it? I was thinking I would just be doing base coats and the initial highlights, then finishing with a brush.

These Master or Paasche tanks seem good. I am concerned about the 1 star reviews though, seems like they can break.

For now I think I am going to try my Hitachi and see how it goes. I can always get an airbrush compressor later.

u/jwarenec1 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I really want get into airbrushing my pieces, I wanted to know how consistent this compressor is...

I'm not looking to break the bank, but I keep seeing mixed reviews with Master compressors.


u/FrankTheSpaceMarine · 1 pointr/Warhammer

For that money you could probably pick up a relatively good airbrush/compressor set. If he's never used one before it would be a fairly big change in his painting process, but I've yet to meet a modeller that doesn't lust after that smooth airbrush finish!

Paasche make excellent airbrushes, this looks like quite a good one. This would be a sufficient compressor to pair it with although you may need an adapter if the lone user review is to be trusted. This would leave you some budget left to pick up extra supplies like paint thinning solution (for making normal acrylics airbrush friendly).

u/alecKarfonta · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Got one of these:

It kinda sucks. It has to run constantly even for light painting on Gundams. Also I had to add a fan cause I could smell plastic on it melting after long sessions. Tho it has been running solid for years. I've even forgotten it on many times and its still kicking. Might be overkill, I think it goes to like 60psi, I normally use 20-25.

Happy painting

u/MyStationIsAbandoned · 1 pointr/resinkits


so if i get this:

What else would need besides the paint? Would be all that i needed or would i need some kind motor or whatever? All I want to use the air brush for is painting skin. I have a spray can for primer that's worked well for me so far.

u/Ephriel · 1 pointr/Warhammer

the iwata neo is a good cheap airbrush. I used to use one untill I upgraded to a Sotar, and they're pretty decent.

u/gunplanium-alloy · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I too would appreciate this.

Not Black Friday but I was recommended this compressor and this air brush on the Discord channel yesterday.

u/andrewlantz · 1 pointr/airbrush

I have this one. It is great and it has never let me down. As far as an airbrush, I suggest the Neo. If you are from the US they will be cheaper yet.

u/IsThisUsernameFree · 1 pointr/Warhammer

I have one cheap 0.2mm Sparmax SP20 and one Iwata Revolution Br (0.3mm). The cheaper one is a lot more work to clean and maintain, though I am unsure if it is a quality issue or just the smaller nozzle diameter that's causing it.

I don't have this one, but I have heard very good things about it:

If you plan on buying one, look at the "frequently bought together" area a bit under the main image. You do want a quick-disconnect and the cleaning pot, it makes it a lot easier. You should also consider a soft, braided hose (the plastic ones are often a bit springy and can resist your movements).

Do you have a suitable compressor?

u/MetroidHunter26 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I don't mind investing in an airbrush set. I do want to know if this one Airbrush is pretty good. I looked it up on Amazon and saw it was half off so I decided to get it. My local stores don't have anything like that. I'll have to go look for a compressor and pressure regulator later on. Just don't know what kind of paints I need and how to start prep work properly. I don't want to break my kits or make them brittle or something.

u/CplCrawfish · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

If you're looking to spend a little less, I have the Neo, and I'm very happy with it.
Then again, I don't do anything crazy with it whatsoever, mainly for basecoats of light colours or large models.

u/Dewyn · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

Out of my 3 airbrushes I seriously still find myself using this bad boy. It's easy to clean (paint well screws off) and it's not very expensive at all.

u/Eridanit · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I'm seeing it for $54.50 on amazon :

Idk if there's anything wrong with that one, because that is cheaper than most places, but the reviews are good.

u/johno_mendo · 1 pointr/modelmakers

The compressor is branded different in Australia but this is it.
And it seams the brush is a little more on amazon in australia but it is worth every penny and the cheapest quality airbrush around.

u/AcadianMan · 1 pointr/airbrush

You can't go wrong with an Iwata NEO. I'm not sure how much detail is involved in what you are painting, but this airbrush is very versatile.

If you look at the bottom "Customers who bought this also bought" you will see compressors.

u/ViggoMiles · 1 pointr/Warmachine

That? how much are the rest of the hose and hopper run, do you know?

u/TheCoxer · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Is it worth getting an airbrush and air compressor? Would this air compressor and air brush be good? I've been interested in painting and building more complex kits and was wondering if I should make the investment.

u/I-Like-Turrdles · 1 pointr/minipainting

This is my setup, I'm happy with it.

Additionally, a decent airbrush that is a little cheaper. to keep in mind, is that the NEO is NOT made by Iwata. It's a Chinese airbrush with their name on it. But I've heard it's quite decent. Here's a video on it, and it's got a great video for learning to clean your airbrush in the description.

u/_berliner · 1 pointr/modelmakers

I use this one.

Some are dual action (like the one linked), some are single action, some have wider spray areas -- this is a pretty good airbrush tutorial (part 1 of 3).

u/Beerady · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I did it with brush but my brother and I just split on this affordable one . I used these paints for color. As for the weathering, I dipped a small but wide damaged brush into grey paint (silver works better) and lightly lined the edges that I thought would chip away first. I tried to be careful because it’s easy to over do it.

u/ChartreuseCorvette · 1 pointr/learntodraw

Everyone else's advice is great, but once you're ready to move in to pens, I suggest a liner pen set like < this, if you can get it (~$11 USD; online and in art stores. Sakura's Pigma Micron pens are also good but a little less sturdy and pigmented in my experience). They're of different widths so you can explore line width (this piece looks to me like one width though), and they come in a sturdy case. Like all pens, be gentle on the tips, and they'll last a long time.

And besides lessons online, try thinking of your own drawing challenges. Once you learn how to put shapes together and show what you see on paper, it's a lot more fun to draw things you want to draw.

Best of luck and keep posting your progress!

u/TarmacFFS · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Depends on the size. A size '01' is .25mm which is fine for most of the smaller panel lines. There is a size '005' which is .2mm and if you can find one, it's more versatile than the 01.

My son started panel lining with markers and honestly, my set of Liners work just as well as the different brand name markers he has for much cheaper.

The new hotness though is using Tamiya wash and an extra fine nib in a fountain pen holder. Panel lining with a wash (premade or lacquer-based DIY wash) is a whole new world.

u/captpickard · 1 pointr/drawing

So yeah, you can draw an eye at a time. That's great, because you took the time to notice what those gooey ocular nerves look like. Now you should buy a sketchbook and a few ink pens to aid your creativity. When I talk about effort, I mean time, dedication, focus, attention to detail.

Starting with a brush pen (fibeliner) will cause you all sorts of headaches. Although a novel way to make different lines and weights, I use it for large features or final touches.

I started with these great Steadler pens and this exact Sketchbook. The pens last me a long time, maybe 6 months of drawing almost every day.

I've drawn for a little more than two years, but have gotten exceptionally better because I bought the appropriate supplies.

u/mybrotherjoe · 1 pointr/drawing

Does she use just one pen thickness? She might like something like this which has different thicknesses for more detailed drawings.

You said she had graded pencils, maybe she would like graded pens too? (I haven't used these yet, so not sure on the quality)

Has she ever used a brush pen? I found them very interesting and you can create unique drawings with them.

If you prefer to get her some paper, look for something with at least 100gsm (this is the thickness of paper) I find 80gsm too thin for ink drawings.

Maybe also having a look for books on things she might like, like books on historic maps or tattoo designs. Reference books are brilliant for inspiration.

u/LearningHow2Draw · 1 pointr/ArtFundamentals

This pretty much. I started doing the lesson using a ballpoint pen and ran into the same problem regarding the indents being left on the paper. When I was doing ghosting lines it really started to become apparent that I should pick up a fineliner. Whenever I would use a ruler to make my first line it would leave an indent in the paper, so whenever I would do superimposing lines I was never sure if I was actually drawing my lines as straight as I was or if my hand was just trailing along the indentation left on the paper.

I'm currently using a Staedtler Pigment Liner that I bought from Amazon for $10.72, I'd recommend it.

u/Loser_Bug · 1 pointr/JournalingIsArt

Honestly, most of my journals only have 5-10 sentences per page. I do a lot of collage, drawing, and abstract painting.

Here's what I suggest:

Buy some cheap liquid watercolors and some [sponges] ( You can do backgrounds on every page before you start. This helped me build the habit of nightly journaling, and removed the fear of "ruining" a page. Any parts that I didn't like I could collage over!

Start using your own photos as much as possible. One of the easiest ways to do an image transfer is to alter an image on the computer, then print it out on an ink jet printer. I use cheap-ass photo paper for this, while the photo is fresh. Spray it with water, then put face-down and rub it into the page. (A rubber brayer is nice, but a used gift card or other hard object would be fine.)

Did you know that you can buy bulk stickers from [Amazon???] (

I also suggest making a to-go bag. If you make your backgrounds at the beginning of the week, or before you start the journal, this makes it extra easy. Mine has:

  1. [paint markers] (
  2. a few of [these] ( and [these] (
  3. Ephemera (usually from my obnoxious amount of magazine subscriptions, my own drawings, and things I find)
  4. Glue sticks. Lots of folks here are interested in archival quality glue, but I just use Elmer's.

    I often use my journal to annotate from books (I used to do it INSIDE the books, but I found them difficult to read with any new clarity that way, and I'm trying to move to digital.) Since I mostly read self-help/improvement books, that made some great starting points for prompts.
u/Daisuk · 1 pointr/drawing
u/nanoymaster · 1 pointr/SketchDaily

yea me to so far... thinking about getting some
Staedtler 308 SB6P Pigment Liner Fineliner's though as they seem to be smaller (in nib width)

u/Vitachan · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I airbrush in my apartment which is in NH. I can show you my setup once I get home (at work now). It's made from a plastic storage box, a bathroom fan, a filter and some dryer flex hose XD During the winter I have the hose going out my sliding glass door with a heavy blackout curtain covering the gap in the door

I use this compressor and so far its worked damned well for what I've used it for

u/charlie_bites_hard · 0 pointsr/Sneakers
u/andy21aa · 0 pointsr/modelmakers

You really need a decent airbrush, cheap no name knock-off copies will probably put you off airbrushing for life.

The NEO is made for Iwata who make some of the best airbrushes around. Review is here he does raise some issues, but this was written 7 years ago.

u/unruly_soldier · 0 pointsr/Gunpla

Note: This is all from experience with painting things other than Gunpla using acrylic paint. Gunpla may be different, but I really don't see how.

Something I learned when I started painting RPG minis is that it's a good thing to splurge a bit on brushes if you're planning on doing a lot of painting. A high quality 0 brush can give better precision and thinner lines than a cheap 10/0. By buying good brushes I reduced my number of brushes used to 3 - a 00 for detail work, a 1 for coverage, and a cheap brush for drybrushing. And that's for painting little 28mm tall minis.

I recommend the Winsor and Newton Series 7 brushes, if you're wanting to give them a try. You can find them online pretty easily, and if you catch them at certain stores you might be able to grab them for about $10 a brush instead of the retail $20+. Just be aware that they're natural fiber brushes, so they'll both hold paint differently(meaning more) and require a bit more care when cleaning to keep them in good shape. You'll want something like The Masters brush cleaner to keep them clean without damaging the fibers, and it can be left in to act as a conditioner as well.

u/lobsterwithcrabs · 0 pointsr/WarhammerFantasy

I would recommend a battalion as well as an army book.

As for painting, I found it immensely helpful to paint the figures before I clipped them out of their brackets. The only thing would would need to pay attention to there is that you will need to add a small dab of paint to the spot that was attached to the bracket and you will need to know what pieces you are going to use and which you are not going to use. This was useful for me because you have something to hold on to as you paint (especially when detailing). It also allows you to paint areas that would be immensely hard to paint with any degree of detail or accuracy if the piece was already assembled.

Cheap brushes sets with which to paint:
Set 1,
Set 2, Set 3

Cheap Detail Brush: Brush

u/tomqvaxy · 0 pointsr/AskReddit

Professional illustrator here, carry a sketchbook with you, don't sweat materials really but try a softer pencil (You will need to go to at least a Micheal's/HobbyLobby to get these.), I've always enjoyed employing a cheap watercolor set as well just rubberband that shit to your sketchbook, whenever you feel bored bust it out on the train in a waiting room etc, draw what's in front of you fast and poorly just do it, keep quick notes of things you see that you'd like to practise drawing when you have time and actually refer to it use you phone, in that same vein keep an inspiration board pinterest is cheesy but perfect for it really.

TL;DR - Practise practise practise. No shortcuts, sorry. Do it!

ETA - If the watercolor thing strikes your fancy get one of these. They're the tits for on the go.

u/Flying__Penguin · -1 pointsr/comicbooks

"Natural Talent" is a lie. It doesn't exist. Anyone anywhere who is any good at anything, is so because they worked hard and practiced for a long time.

The kid's 9 years old, anything that he tries to do, he is going to get frustrated. All you can do for now is encourage him, and help him learn to derive fun from the process of art-making, rather than worrying about the result. Getting hung up on particular techniques and styles at this early on is, I think, counter-productive. All it will do is serve to highlight the disparity with his current skill level and that of others around him, which is discouraging. Get involved with him in the process, draw with him. Are you no good at drawing? Great! Have fun drawing with him, and show him that making a perfect drawing isn't the most important thing. And maybe you can begin learning and developing as artists together.

One thing that can help make the process more exciting is new tools. Is he drawing mostly with crayons and markers? Get him some (cheap, nontoxic, water-soluble) paints or pastels. Make collages out of ripping construction paper. get him a Buddha Board, or just some sidewalk chalk. Experimenting with different mediums will help get him engaged in the process of making art, and not worry about the final product.