(Part 2) Best painting & art supplies according to redditors

Based on the width of the '' '' '' spilled '' '' '' coffee, and the way it stays on nearly perfectly parallel tracks throughout the shape of the
'' '' '' stain '' '' ''

The fact that we have a deeper hue on the part of the '' '' '' stain '' '' '' near the pot, and a corresponding wide splotch, indicates the pressure on the beginning of a brush stroke. and then a lighter tail that breaks of into two parallel strokes, indicating OP quickly flicked up with the intention of making a steamy effect.

Based on the look of the mark I'd guess a flat or angular flat

In fact I would guess that you've been rough with your brushes. When you dry off a flat to aggressively you bend the bristles and sometimes a 'V' shape gets stuck in the brushes dry state. Which I'm guessing is what the brush you used to do this with looks like.

Here's a link to some new brushes, the one you used is clearly in need of replacement

and here's a guide on how to look after your brushes better

I'm gonna give this bullshit attempt at a post a 1/10 for effort. You'll have a more realistic fake stain if you blotch coffee with a paper towel and run the end between your finger tips to squeeze out actual liquid drops. The naturalization of your faked stain was the goal. You went over the top in your artistic efforts. Better luck next time though.

Shit isn't rated that well though https://www.amazon.com/Stuart-Semple-mattest-flattest-acrylic/dp/B0758GKKGZ/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1527617129&sr=8-5&keywords=BLACK+2.0

Almost everybody is saying it's not drying all that black. The pictures show clearly visible edges. Doesn't look great.

Here's something very similar.

BLACK 2.0 - The world’s mattest, flattest, black art material by Stuart Semple

lol I think the same thing every time I see those. It looks like someone ctrl-v'd a generic anime face on the head without bothering to resize it proportionally.

Faber-Castell makes really nice pens though. I use this set.

First off, Great work! As someone just starting you did really well!

As for things to look to do to improve that I noticed.

• Thin your paints, and use at least 2 thin layers. Duncan from Warhammer TV says this constantly). It really does make the colors and application come out better. If the water to paint ratio is tricky to maintain due to evaporation use a medium. I like Liquitex Flow Aid.
  
  
• Washes. Mainly for the metal bits Nuln Oil, eagles on the chest plate Seraphim Sepia, and robes.
  
  
• Fix up the details with a fine brush. It mainly shows on the shoulder pads, yet it is there elsewhere.
  
  
• Highlights. Simple yet tedious to do. However, it makes the model come alive so much more!
  
  
• Mold lines. Get an x-acto knife and just shave the parts off you don't want. Using the back end of it should work just fine.
  
  Warhammer TV is an excellent resource for figuring out how to do painting tecniques with a demonstration and walk through.
  
  A lot of what I'm sharing with you I ignored for far too long. I can tell you the model I am painting now looks far better than the model I was painting a year ago.
  
  This article is great inspiration for painters of any skill level.
  
  Keep it up, keep improving, and if you learn something don't hesitate to share it and how it works for you.
  
  I look forward to seeing your next model and/or squad you paint.

I'm uh, I'm really concerned that "customers that viewed this item also viewed" something called the "Fat Old Fred" after I clicked on that 55 gallon drum of "Passion Lubes" Natural Water-Based Lubricant. The horror that is Fat Old Fred, with his gaping hole of a mouth above his "Bob... Bob had bitch-tits" bitch-tits, just staring back at me with his permanently closed eyes and what appear to be his removable nose and mouth area.

• I don't know if this is somehow Amazon's algorithm tying my Paramedic purchases together, and they think I'd want to buy 55 gallons of lube with what I'm hoping is a CPR/intubation dummy (and totally not a cock-holster with lube4lyfe)... or if this is the result of Trump's measure to allow ISP's to sell your personal info without consent? Either way, they got it wrong because I don't have that kind of money right now.
  
  
  I just know I'm worried about the kind of search suggestions I'm gonna get in the future. Also, in grand Amazon fashion, the most helpful two reviews for the "Fat Old Fred" are here:
  
  > "The handy carrying case is also quite useful for carrying other dismembered obese human torsos.
  
  > Just in case you were curious."
  
  And..
  
  > "I'm really happy with my Fat Old Fred, Black. Though if I'm being up-front, I have to deduct 1 star for it not being quite black. It's actually closer to the color of wet terra cotta. Anyway, I was thrilled upon the arrival of my Fat Old Fred, Black, and immediately began to explore the various uses for a silicon sculpt of a kind-of-old-looking obese torso. My first idea was to cover him in paint and use a trebuchet to launch him at a giant canvas (after all, we all know art is really a process not a product amirite?) but I achieved unsatisfactory results as I seemed to only get face+tits+belly prints. After an hour or so the wall of my warehouse loft wound up looking like a giant had dipped their balls in paint and slapped them all over my wall. Not a good look, unfortunately.
  
  > My backup plan was to pimp him out to the crackheads who have an encampment in the storm drain under my warehouse, and so far I'm happy to say I've already recouped my costs in crack rocks and crusty dollar bills. A-, 8/10 would buy again."
  
  http://i.imgur.com/cT9xoIl.jpg

light underneath, something wide like this. This is just the first one I found in a quick and dirty search, you can probably find cheaper. Other people have had success with a white towel in their lap with good lighting from above the work. Try the towel first of course, it's the cheapest. :)

I used a wire wheel brush on my wired drill (a kit like this: http://www.harborfreight.com/wire-wheelcup-brush-set-6-pc-60475.html)

Then just wiped them down well before painting. For the paint: https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/painters-touch-ultra-cover-2x/matte

Then I used the Sharpie Oil Paint Pens for the lettering (http://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Oil-Based-Assorted-Metallics-1770458/dp/B003YDYO1Q). Depending on the size of the lettering, you might need different sizes.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQS3UW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

$90, just make sure to order a hose too (only airbrush i bought that didnt come with one). You can use a cheapy air compressor till you save for a good one.

Damn good airbrush. With Flo Improver i can run ANY paint through it, GW, P3, Vallejo, doesnt matter

My recommended buying list for a new painter is:

Tools

• Nippers
  
• Hobby Knife
  
• Thinning Medium
  
• Glue
  
• Glue Accelerant
  
• Brush Cleaner
  
• Palette
  
  Sprays
  
  
• Primer
  ○ Grey is standard, white if you're painting a majority of light colors, and black if the majority is dark.
  
• Matte Varnish
  
  Brushes
  
  
• Brushes
  ○ Round 0
  ○ Round 1
  ○ Round 2
  
  
  All in all it should be around $60 USD for the tools and about $40 USD for the brushes. However, this list gives you every tool you will need to get started and to continue with the hobby.
  
  This is just what I like to have on hand, this does not reflect the "perfect list". I hope it helps :)

I painted the base with a variety of shades of blue and then put a very thick layer of distressed crackle paint clear rock candy on it. Once dry I did a heavy dry brush of white over it. The crack pattern seems to depend on how heavy the crackle paint is applied and it there was anything on the base before the paint was applied.

https://www.amazon.com/Holtz-Distress-Crackle-Paint-Clear/dp/B005FY5HCW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1500396638&sr=8-2&keywords=distressed+paint

>Hey guys noob here trying to get into the hobby. I've just been adding up some prices and it's getting ridiculous... am I doing something wrong or is this the entry fee we're talking about? Here is my math.
>
>TOTAL
>$29 - Chaos Black Spray
>$11 - Agrax Earthshade
>$6 - Lamenters Yellow
>$6 - Flash Gitz Yellow
>$6 - Yriel Yellow
>$6 - Ardcoat
>$11 - Agrellan Earth (x3)
>SUBTOTAL $97
>
>$6 - Kantor Blue
>$11 - Coelia Greenshade
>$6 - Lothern Blue
>$6 - Sotek Green
>$6 - Temple Guard Blue
>$6 - Ushabti Bone
>$6 - Screaming Skull
>$6 - Balthasar Gold
>$6 - Gehenna's Gold
>$6 - Khorne Red
>$11 - Carroburg Crimson
>$6 - Wazdakka Red
>SUBTOTAL $82
>
>Paints $179
>Start Collecting! Seraphon $140
>Essential Citadel Brush Selection $87
>Mouldline Remover $19
>TOTAL: $425
>
>^ This paint is for bases and Saurus Warriors only, haven't even calculated the cost of paints for the Cold One Knights and the Carnosaur yet because it was already getting out of control and this is supposed to be my intro into the hobby...

It hurts my pocket book to see people pay $11 for black primer and clear coat when you can buy the same quality of spray for ~$3-4 each.

And $6 for single colors is ridiculous. But then I don't use GW paints. I prefer army painter shade washes, and Vallejo model color or game color for regular colors. I use Rustoleum black, grey, and white primer and always have great experiences with it as long as you follow the use instructions (like don't spray when too hot or too cold or rainy). And I thought my Testors Dull clear coat was expensive at ~$8.

[Vallejo basic model color] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009162PWU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_7xLcAbSVVT1V1) 16 basic colors for $42, which is a ton better than $6 per color.

Army Painter Quickshades 11 washes for $27.50

And if you like army painter paints which they are great paints there is the starter set: Mega Paint Set by Army Painter 50 paints includingbasic colors, shade washes, and a few metallics for $90.

Don't buy into GW's propaganda, their regular paints aren't any better than other common brands like Army Painter and Vallejo, and they are a fraction of the price, usually about half the cost.

Personally I used to use exclusively GW paints and wish someone would have told me this stuff early, I would have saved a lot of money. When I started using other products I realized I didn't even like the GW method for most things. Base paints are too thick, and layer paints are the exact same as army painter or model color paints. Then you get things like acrylic medium, airbrush medium, and glaze medium which you can buy in big bottles from other companies, like Golden, which is the same gunk that GW sells for $6 per pot that you can buy from Liquitex or Golden 8 oz bottlrs for ~$10-$15.

If you're worried about getting studio colors without using GW paints then the community has you covered with the paint conversion chart.

Save yourself some money if you're worried about cost and don't overpay for GW materials when it's the same stuff across the board.

I used these to transfer the paint to the bottles


https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B075WR8BWV/ref=dp_prsubs_3

I used glass beads from eBay


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100-Glass-Paint-Agitators-SPECIAL-OFFER-SALE-PRICE-citadel-vallejo-mixing-ball/163406170842?hash=item260bc44ada:g:RFIAAOSw2bRdokOJ

Flow aid


https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B000KNPM46?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title


Best bottles are from warcolors


https://www.warcolours.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=68&product_id=66

Hope this helps

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0026HC9F4

I have no idea what this would be used for

So I've been trying to get more into basing and wanted some ice effect for my wolves. I've seen a lot of tutorials on getting white Ice but I came up with something I felt more realistic looking.

No texture, I just painted russ grey down then watered down ceramite white and covered the base. Then I just plopped a ton of Clear crackle paint and let it dry. The thicker you lay it on the bigger the cracks.

A lightbox. https://www.amazon.com/Tikteck-Ultra-thin-Brightness-Stencilling-X-rayViewing/dp/B01M26S3VY/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1548998299&sr=8-6&keywords=lightbox

Know nothing about the quality of the above one, just first one that came up.

These were Faber Castell Pitt pens, 4 pack from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000TKEZDO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LuF7AbF24XN09)

I highly recommend oil based paint pens over permanent markers. Thy take a little longer to dry but look 100x better and won't fade (sharpie can fade over a long time). They are easy to find at local craft stores (I got mine at Michaels if you have that close). These are the ones I've used.

Sharpie Oil-Based Paint Markers, Medium Point, Assorted Colors, 5-Count

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003YDYO1Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_EnWgzbCKPF1QG

Picture for reference. The bottom row of horror pops are all paint pen. Most of the others are Sharpie (before I knew about paint pens)

https://imgur.com/a/dglSz

Great, now Amazon is recommending some really weird shit for me.

Your line work is actually not bad. But, mixing the cartoon features of the face with the realistic musculature of the body looks off to me.

You should get one of these to help you progress in body proportions.

>Constructive criticism for how I can improve my art is greatly appreciated :)

I think it's good, but it needs some technical love. Study anatomy, buy a mannequin for reference, get the details right - it looks to me like his left upper arm is about half as long as it should be, and that his neck isn't centered on his shoulders. Some of the coloring is throwing me off too, like there's shaded bits in his shoulder armor, head, gauntlets, yet other areas like his upper sleeve are just flat blocks of color? And I can't tell what's up with his lower half, like what's below that last maroon piece, and are there even legs there? Finally I don't think the detailed, almost airbrushed quality of the skybox is really working with the comic book/screenprint-style colorblocking of the main illo.

Most of my friends are full-time artists and I've written for Juxtapoz, Hi-Fructose, and have written a lot of art and design articles for automotive magazines. The number one thing most young artists get wrong is accuracy, like the anatomy issues I pointed out. You can do anything you want with a thing, that's what makes your art your own, but you have to first be able to render that thing correctly. Unless you're Picasso, but even he could do it if he'd wanted to.

So I'd pay more attention to style overall and make your choices cohesive, and I'd work harder on presenting living creatures more accurately. But do keep working, you have the talent to make good stuff. Go for it!

Using a reference will make you better at drawing creatively. Just don't use a photograph.

Seriously, set up a still life of any random crap you have. Toss your bath towel in a heap and draw that to study light and texture. Draw with your eyes closed or without lifting pencil from paper. Get people to pose for you or just sketch them when they're not paying attention. Draw self portraits.

Later on, when you decide you want to draw hobbits or unicorns or whatever, you'll have the mental reference you'll need. Plus mannequins are cheap.

Alvin Wooden Human Mannequin (Unisex) 12 Inches Tall https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001OBMZIE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5vRWBb1ADA316

Like this? I guess I didn't even know that was an option. I can make my weights look 10x cooler now, thanks.

> I mean, why else is there "20 pounds of ass" sitting on one of our shelves, next to a torso.

https://www.amazon.com/Fuck-Silly-Bubble-Butt-RD173/dp/B01CGZJGT2?th=1

It doesn't quite look realistic anyway, even with the skin colour...

but then I guess it would look even less realistic without the skin tone?

Also, completely unrelated, but equally hilarious :

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004JOB9Z8/

Great review :

>The handy carrying case is also quite useful for carrying other dismembered obese human torsos.

Welcome to the subreddit! I think I can answer a couple of your questions about paint. Some people swear by doing it outside when the weather is nice, especially in the cooler months, where humidity and dust aren't as prevalent. I personally paint indoors. I picked up a paint booth from Amazon for under 80 bucks and it works great! I just vent the fumes outside through a partially opened window with the vent the booth comes with.

Paint booth from Amazon

As for preparing the body. I've always been told to wash and dry the parts involved first with soap and water, then allow to dry completely. You can accelerate this with a dust free cloth or hair dryer, pick your poison. Then sand the body with a 600 grit grade of sandpaper, rinse again, and wet sand (body and paper are wet with 1000-1200 grit) Once that's done, you're ready for priming. Model builders who are way better at this than me typically recommend 1-2 coats of primer, the color depends on the body color. So for bright colors, use a white primer. For darker colors, use a grey primer. After you've primed a couple times, its time to take the body and sand it again, with 1200 grit. Get it all smooth, then shoot the color. First three coats are mist coats, sprayed 10-12 inches from the model, very light coats. After that comes 2 or 3 wet coats, sprayed closer to the model, careful not to overpaint or you'll get dripping or pooling in some spots.

There are lots of forums for modelers, including this one. The mods here put together a painting FAQ you can see on the right side of this page. I like your truck! Looks great! I hope some of these answers help.

I use these and they're really good so far;

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B010QLOJ3G/ref=pe_3187911_185740111_TE_item

You make me wonder... Has anyone put Black 2.0 on terrain yet?

Behold

you might benefit from one of those little wooden skeletons artists use. You can pose the figure and then orient it to see the perspective you want to paint from.

https://www.amazon.com/Alvin-Wooden-Mannequin-Unisex-Inches/dp/B001OBMZIE

I think you would just see a whole lot less of the legs period, at least from this vantage point.

https://www.reddit.com/r/Sneakers/comments/6eqshj/boost_whitening_mystery_grey/

post of what it looks like after

I would assume it looks fine long term because the oil would soak into the boost and keep it white until it got dirty again (vs. painting over it that would chip off), use a white oil sharpier - I think this is the right one. https://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Paint-MParker-White-35568/dp/B0026HC9F4

/u/Ouranox /u/brokeandfamous would be great if you guys gave advice because I haven't personally done this yet.

Btw, you can use a hot air dryer to uncrease your NMD blocks as well, if you haven't seen that post yet :)

This one ?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0026HC9F4/ref=asc_df_B0026HC9F45009361/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B0026HC9F4&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167130062341&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7910342813992266338&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004333&hvtargid=pla-312324517103

eww. it feels kinda gross that this link is already purple for me... it's because I fell into this amazon rabbit hole the other day from another /r/ofcoursethatsathing post (circumcision trainer). From there I clicked on "Fat Old Fred, Black" and the lube (and some gimp masks) was listed under also-viewed from there.

Amazon carries all three sizes:

https://www.amazon.com/Molotow-Liquid-Chrome-Marker-1Mm/dp/B01E7EFSVU

Also, Blick has it for less:

https://www.dickblick.com/products/molotow-liquid-chrome-marker/

I bought this light table and the light can go through 5 pages of watercolor paper.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M26S3VY/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I normally have a sketch ready before hand but this will work well for you from my experience.

I use a couple methods:

• Trace onto a water soluble backing that dissolves in water after you are finished <https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001B0S2AS?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title>
  
• trace pattern using a light pad and pilot frixion pen or water soluble marker. <https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M26S3VY?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title>

Of course :D

Inks are basically pigmented water, so they flow better then layer paint, while not pooling as much as washes. They're used in glazing, as you mentionned.
Glazing is a more advanced technique which is used to get really smooth transitions between colors. There was a post a while ago that really showcased what glazing does (see here). It's a very time consuming process, where you take a range of colors and go back and forth applying this layers of it to blend and smooth your colors.
If you want to get into glazing, then you'll need to buy some retarder medium. It's a type of liquid that will slow down the drying process of your paint so you can take your time and mix it up on the model while it's wet to get those smooth blends. Someting like this should work. You add a tiny bit of it to your paint as your apply it.

I really like these artist pens have some in black and some in grey. Feels more authoritative then pencil and you can get a nice sense of tone with the greys.

If you don't want to mess around with ink, I'd recommend the Faber-Castell Pitt Artist Pens. http://amzn.com/B000TKEZDO

The Master airbrush kit with a compressor is probably the entry level kit you'd want. The compressor with that kit is also known as the AS-186 compressor, and is quite a capable compressor.

The airbrush is probably nothing fancy, but a basic cheap airbrush is a good starter since you can learn how they work, how to maintain them, and most importantly not give a damn the first time you bend a needle.

Once you've got some practice under your belt, move up to a reputable artists airbrush since they are better made. You won't actually see much of a difference in the quality of the spray in a cheap airbrush to an expensive one, expensive ones typically have more options in components and are easier to source replacement parts for.

I moved up from a no-name ebay airbrush to an Iwata, and immediately bought the parts to change the Iwata airbrush to a 0.5mm needle instead of its stock 0.3mm.

To add to this, invest in a Drawing Mannequin. You can even get one for android. They will help you plan body poses and give you something to work off of.

Nice! If you'd like to take it further you should get him a mannequin. He can pose it and even though his style is very animated atm, it will help get him a good sense of proportions!

https://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Paint-MParker-White-35568/dp/B0026HC9F4

I used one of these. It took about 15 minutes per wheel to put on two coats. Because the tires were brand new, I did not have to clean them off or anything. I have already taken it through a car wash and the lettering stayed on fine.

http://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Paint-Marker-Point-White/dp/B0026HC9F4

Save your money. You need $20 more for a decent starter brush here, I wouldn’t buy one of these, I had one, made one model and sold it. In honesty I’d save up, double your money and buy either a kit like this compressor with tank with brush, or preferably just the compressor for $70 and a decent airbrush like the Iwata neo for $60.

A compressor with a tank means the compressor doesn’t run all the time so prolongs the compressor life itself. It has a decent water trap and regulator to adjust pressure.

A Neo is a superb brush for the money, cheap Chinese airbrushes have less accuracy, require deeper cleaner and can give a frustrating experience.

It’s often worth spending once and spending right in this field. Hence I suggest saving your money.

I bought the Master Deluxe Airbrush kit on Amazon (likely the one you saw), and everything /u/BigBraddWolfe said has been my exact experience.

I originally got mine for Gundam model kits, though the brush works fantastically for priming and base-coating miniatures as well. I would definitely recommend the Deluxe over the cheaper version, because the "extras" make all the difference.

The tank allows you a fair bit of continuous spray before the motor kicks in, and pretty much ensures you don't get any rattling or crazy pressure differences. It fills back up pretty quickly, so you won't spend more than a few seconds waiting on it if you choose to wait it out vs. continuing to spray. I'm pretty sure that the extra needles of various sizes, quick-disconnect, fancy hose, and moisture trap are a savings in this bundle when compared to upgrading an existing compressor. In any case, it's doubtful that I'll have to get another compressor in the future assuming this one continues to hold up. It does everything I could ask of it, in about the best way any compressor is going to. It gives me air steadily and for a long time, pressurized to a level I determine, keeps moisture out, and allows me to quickly connect and disconnect the brush.

That last point turns out to be quite the life-saver for the brush itself. It works fine, sprays well, and can go wider or tighter with the included needles. Where this thing may have a little more upkeep vs. an Iwata is in the clean-up between colors. I find myself breaking it down to clean the needle guard and do a "deep cleaning" just about every time I change colors. It just doesn't satisfy me to wash a bunch of cleaner through it and hope for the best. I would imagine an Iwata will create less buildup on the needle and in the guard, allowing you to clean it out a bit quicker. For me, it's not too much of a hassle because I just need to rinse the cup, slide the needle out, give it a wipe, remove and clean the guard, then stick everything back together. With the quick-disconnect I don't have to worry about my compressor's pressure, or the line, or any of that. I pop the brush off, do the quick cleaning, and it's all but spotless a minute later when I pop it back on and go back to spraying.

Even if you have no intention of using the included brush, you're probably still getting a decent compressor fully decked out at a steal. If you want to go and drop the remaining budget on a neo, by all means do so and you'll have a fantastic setup for airbrushing dolls and whatever other large surfaces you want to repaint. If you grab another quick-connect fitting (it seems like most of the hose fittings for compressors are standardized by one of a few manufacturers), then you could switch between them at will for different jobs. Use the basic Master one for priming or whatever rough jobs you need to crank out, and break out the neo for finer detail work.

Thoughts on the first Neo kit I found: it looks like the brush is better but I can't speak definitively on the compressor's workings. It may be quieter than mine, or it could be louder. It looks like the three settings on it are all you get, while I have a little gauge on mine to set my PSI to whatever I want (I typically use 20-25). It may seem like a small thing, but I think it's kind of nice that it has a little holder on it. It's a kind of profound terror to pick up the airbrush, fill it with paint, and realize you have nowhere to put it down when you suddenly need two hands again.

If you can afford the extra price then I'd go for the version with the tank (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002KSQHB6/). It will allow the compressor to turn off when the tank is full, as well as reducing any potential concerns with air pulsation.

A lot of people seem to use cheap compressors like that (myself included), and I've seen them recommended pretty often.

I’m on my second master compressor. I upgraded last week to one with a tank. The master brand of compressors are decent for beginners.

I’m not a fan of the actual airbrush they come with and upgraded that early on.

I’m also not familiar with the paints listed in that link.

I second the suggestion to find one without the paints and pick up something from vallejo. Vallejo has two lines of air brush paint and both are decent. They offer different colors in each. You can also get citadel/games workshop brand air paint but I’m not a fan of the bottles they come in. Plus they tend to be more expensive.

While the accessories in the one you linked are nice to have, he can get away without having them. I mix my paints in the airbrush so I don’t need cups or mixing sticks. You could check out the one below which is the compressor with tank and a basic airbrush.

Master Airbrush Cool Runner II Dual Fan Air Tank Compressor System Kit with a Pro Set G222 Gravity Airbrush Kit with 3 Tips 0.2, 0.3 & 0.5 mm - Hose, Holder, How-to Guide - Hobby, Auto, Cake, Tattoo https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002KSQHB6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YWP3DbEJ9QG39

I recommend getting this to air in cleaning the airbrush.

4 SET Airbrush Spray Gun Wash Cleaning Tools Needle Nozzle Brush Glass Cleaning Pot Holder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0154HN2NA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_sYP3Db0DV1NXC

sharpie makes oil based paint pens..

http://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-1770458-Oil-Based-Medium-Assorted/dp/B003YDYO1Q/

Customers who viewed this item also viewed Fat Old Fred.

Customer who viewed that also viewed this weird as shit thing.

https://www.amazon.com/Nasco-Fat-Old-Fred-Black/dp/B004JOB9Z8/ref=pd_sbs_121_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=972QP906FX8R49C70EPT

I recently bought a setup about a month ago so if you are in the US, I'd recommend the following:

• 1/5 hp Portable Airbrush Compressor with Tank $89.99
  
• 10'ft braided airbrush hose, 1/8" bsp aka Iwata $5.99
  
• Point Zero Dual Action Gravity Feed Airbrush with 0.2, 0.3, 0.5mm nozzle-needle sets and 1/8" bsp quick disconnect $23.99
  
• 20% discount for buying over $100 from this Amazon vendor
  
• Safety is very important! Portable Spray Booth $79.99 w/ Prime, not eligible for above discounts
  
• Comes out to about $175.96 before tax.
  
  I have the compressor, the hose, and the booth and they've worked great for me so far. Honestly, you save on shipping vs. the Master Brand and mine came preassembled with the regulator installed. The Master Brand ones are notorious for having regulators that you screw in and they end up tilted to the side. In fact I think people in this sub have pointed this flaw out (there's a better link with pictures, I just can't find it). Items were shipped promptly and got here in one piece. You also get the discounts if you buy a certain amount from them.
  
  I actually have an Iwata NEO that I got from Amazon for about $40ish. I'm still on the fence as to whether or not I like airbrushing or not. Honestly, I wish I had gotten the PointZero brush just as a cheap intro dual-action brush.
  
  I think someone on this subreddit once pointed out that an airbrush is like a regular brush, just powered by air. They weren't kidding. It takes time to master. If you have the money to spend on a fancy >$100 airbrush like the Krome, then less of your time will be spent trying to master the idiosyncrasies of your brush. But it doesn't change the fact that it takes practice to be able to lay down really smooth, thin coats consistently.
  
  I don't know how busy you are as a student, but it can be time consuming to set everything up, test your spray conditions, mix your paints, actually paint, and then clean everything up. If you find you like the process, then you can invest in a better brush in the future and keep your old one for laying down primer or base coating.
  
  But there's nothing wrong with OOB snap builds if you find that's your thing.
  
  edit: for link formatting mistakes, and also to say that I'm not very experienced yet, so take my advice with a grain of salt.
  
  edit 2: My other regret is not considering compressed CO2. I live near a welding supply shop and a restaurant supply shop that both sell compressed CO2 cylinders. A 10 lb tank with high pressure regulator would have been around $120 and then some for converters or extra regulators. People on the fine scale forums claim that a 10 lb tank could last months for airbrushing and it's only $17 to refill at either shop. Would have been perfect too for carbonating beverages for homebrew purposes. Just another option to consider. Definitely do not buy the Badger compressed air cans. They don't last long enough.

Tim Holtz Distress Crackle Paint 4 oz Jar, Clear Rock Candy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005FY5HCW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_sF2gAb0DNZFKX

Ranger TDC31888 Tim Holtz... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005FY5HCW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I actually just started getting into miniature painting a few weeks ago, and went the same route as you to start out with. I have very shaky hands, and I wasn't sure if I would even be able to do it so I went cheap at first. I picked up this brush set from Amazon. Then I bought some primer from Walmart, and bought the Army Painter Zombicide paint set since I have the game and figured even if I messed them up, I cold just slap some blood on those parts and they would looks ok (which was the case for a few).
I think the Wargame one would be a good starter set as well.
The primer I picked up is cheap and works great, but it takes a while to dry. Since I started, I picked up a couple of cans of Army Painter primer and that dries in a few minutes. If you don't mind waiting a day, then just use the cheap stuff. There may be other cheap ones that dry faster, but I can't speak to those.

Brushes

basic paint set

I ordered this back in February and have been using it ever since. The compressor has been pretty reliable, and it doesn't hurt to have 2 gravity-fed brushes in the kit for that price.

I probably sit down to use mine a couple of times a week with a few down weeks mixed in. I'd probably estimate that the compressor has probably logged a solid 55 to 70 hours of total work over the past 3 months between learning/practice, X-Wing Minis, Legion, and terrain making.

If you're in the states, get yourself a Molotow Liquid Chrome marker.


Molotow Amazon Link For Reference.

Molotow ONE4ALL Acrylic Paint Pump Marker, 1mm, Liquid Chrome, 1 Each (703.101) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E7EFSVU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_GxA0AbTVJ739B

I got it on amazon, let me see if I can get a link. I will say there are a bunch of the same kinds posted around in the related items

Edit: the link for the light box I got

Scanning is costly, yeah. If you shoot a roll a week or more, it's a no-brainer, cause you'll make back your costs on what you save in paying for lab scans pretty quick. If you shoot less than that, "it depends".

If you're just shooting 35mm, a used Plustek is a great way to go, or even a new one if you want a warranty. If you also shoot medium format, I'd look for a used Epson V700 or higher; I wouldn't bother with the lower number Epson flatbeds; the resolution just isn't enough for me to make it worth the hassle of scanning.

If you already have a DSLR or other interchangeable lens camera, and especially if you already have a macro lens for it, you can also try DSLR scanning. Even if you don't have a camera, you can get set up for around $500-700 depending on what you need to buy. If I had to do it from scratch here's what I'd get.

• Nikon D3200 (24mp) and 40mm f/2.8 macro (really sharp lens) -- used $300
  
• For 35mm scanning: Nikon ES-2 film holder -- new $140
  
• For 120 scanning: Lomography Digitaliza film holder -- new $35
  
• LED tracing pad for backlighting -- new $23
  
• Cheap tripod and ballhead (tons of these on amazon) -- new $66
  
• Rocket blower -- new $10
  
• Cotton gloves 25pk -- new $24
  
• Adobe Lightroom + Photoshop package -- $10/month
  
• Negative Lab Pro lightroom plugin license -- $99 one-time
  
  So all in that's everything you need for DLSR scanning, and it comes to $707 plus the ongoing LR subscription. You could cut the cost a lot if you already own some of those things, or by using a cheaper 35mm holder than the Nikon ES-2, such as a 35mm-sized Digitaliza, or rigging up an older Nikon ES-1. You also don't need NLP and Lightroom; you could get away with free software like the GIMP. You might also be able to find a cheaper tripod at a yardsale or thrift store that will work fine, but they can be clunkier than modern ones.
  
  All that is why people say "if you already have a camera" with DSLR scanning. Otherwise, why not just get a brand new Plustek 8100i AI for $490 and get about the same level of image quality for less money, or even less with a used model. So, it kind of depends on your personal situation.

First of all, you need to use a flesh wash for flesh. Black will only ever work in a zombie situation. Secondly, wash does not work on flatter surfaces like that cloak. When using washes you need to mop up the areas that have pooling going on with a clean brush.

To fix this mini, repaint the cloak and the flesh, use a flesh wash (in my experience you need to get this right in one wash because multiple flesh washes looks bad), and use either a feathering/glazing technique (more advanced techniques) or a drybrush technique (easy as pie technique) on the cloak (paint the dark red base, heavy drybrush medium red, lighter drybrush light red, ultra light drybrush yellow). I think you should drybrush, honestly.

If you don't have the washes you need, I cannot possibly recommend the army painter quickshade set more. Their paint kinda sucks, but their washes are a must have. https://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-Warpaints-Quickshade-Wash/dp/B0714QL55V/

https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-2-0-mattest-flattest-material/dp/B0758GKKGZ

$19 for a bottle on Amazon. It's dark, but it's no Vantablack.

What kind of scope?

For a Newtonian, you can get those kinds of concrete forming tubes from places like Lowes and the Home Despot. They're just heavy cardboard, and last pretty well, but I'd definitely recommend painting it with something that will provide protection. Painting it flat black inside and/or flocking it is a good idea too. (I found a paint online, Black 2.0, which claims to be the flattest black paint available to the general public, except if your name happens to be Anish Kapoor). I bought some and it is pretty damn black. I ended up not using it to paint the inside of my scope, but I might use it on my 80mm refractor. Not cheap, but really, really black. Not Vanta Black level black, but as closes as you can buy.

Was the one you bought by any chance this set? If it's that set, or one that looks like it, then all of the bigger markers are mainly for detail painting. The smaller one is intended for panel lining, but I'd suggest at least getting a black lining marker too, since gray is too light for many colors.

If I plan on painting the kit, I cut every pieces out so that I can paint them all at once. However, I organize pieces into sections - L/R legs, L/R arms and so on. When I paint, each section goes on their on tray to prevent confusion. I have been building long enough that, even if I mix the parts together, I should be able to find what I need.


I try not to mix PG parts though. That's like finding that one piece you need in a pile of Lego.

-----

>cheap clippers to cut from the runner and then to try and cut closer to the part.

That's the cause of your problem. You should be using a sharp nipper and cut further away to the piece, then shave it down with a very sharp hobby knife or, if the gate is thin enough, cut against the piece with your nipper.

------

It is possible to polish the part with sanding only, however, it will take a lot of time and quite a bit of sand papers. Here is how I often hide my sanding

• Cover it with Real Touch Markers or Gundam Markersand wipe off excess with cotton swaps. This is not a 'pro' method, but it works like a charm and takes almost no time. I only do this to my unpainted kits.
  
  
  
• Primer/Surfacer. After I sand the entire piece with some fine grid sanding papers, I wash them to get all the residues. After the piece dry, I prime it with my Mr. Surfacer 1200, let it cure, then paint.
  
  

Airbrush

Compressor

X-acto -Z series blades are great.

For sandpaper you can just buy some popsicle sticks and 400, 600, 1000 grain, and then a buffing pad from a nearby hobby store or something like walmart even, it's all the same honestly. The popsicle sticks you can wrap the paper over to give you something to rub it against easily. Just practice on some of the parts that come with a kit that don't get used so you aren't eating away too much plastic.

https://www.amazon.com/Liquitex-Professional-Flow-Effects-Medium/dp/B000KNPM46/ref=asc_df_B000KNPM46/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167130062341&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17550406855758447522&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033614&hvtargid=pla-83844654326&psc=1

I did not use a funnel. I did use some flow medium but only like 1-2mm to make it run smoother.
Vktech 50pcs 15ml Empty Plastic Squeezable Dropper Bottles Eye Liquid Dropper LDPE https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D1GUAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_Ju5Jyd4sZrHKA
Liquitex Professional Flow Aid Effects Medium, 4-oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KNPM46/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_Eg3tMY5uA5Hla

Hey!

If you're using water, sometimes you gotta keep mixing it up so the pigment actually stays in the mixture. I recommend Lahmian medium, or Flow Aid for thinning down paints. Also try a wet palette!

To blend colours you want to glaze the highlights. You can do this by snagging a glazing medium, or just thin the shit out of your paint and go over the levels of highlight. Normally you'd want a mix of your darkest and lightest colour when doing this.

I try to paint the entire model, but don't bother with things that will never see the light of day. I paint for tabletop quality, so that's that.

If I'm disappointed I try again! That's why test models are important.

I prefer citadel over all. I use the citadel Colour app to help with the color choice and how to apply. I do use Vallejo when I need an air brush version of a color that Citadel doesn’t have or for priming.

I understand the stance you have on the pricing with citadel, but you can make that line of paint last longer.

Head to amazon and order these items
15ml dropper bottles
1ml needless syringe
flow aid
small stainless steel ball baring

By following the steps in this video on YouTube I was able to transfer all my base and layer paints to dropper bottles. Now I can limit how much paint I’m wasting to a minimum. Because like you said, they can be expensive

I'm partial to using Liquitex Airbrush Medium to thin acrylics - http://amzn.to/Ui4x1T. You can use water or alcohol or other thinners, but I actually have a much easier time with the medium. I'm pretty sure that it's because you're getting a better distribution of pigment particles. Also, with thinners it's possible to overthin to the point where the paint just doesn't want to do anything but bead on the surface. It's nearly impossible to do that with medium.

Just my 2 cents.

About two hours and only around 20 bucks! Here the the links to what I used.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KNPM46/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007IK9M4K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01COLW9IS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (10ml bottles, good enough but next time I might spring for 30ml)

For the Model Color, use the Thinner Medium. You just need 1 or 2 drops of this thinner for a drop of Model Color. Too much will make your paint have a watery/runny consistency.

On the other hand, use the Airbrush Thinner for the Model Air. It works best with a Retarder Medium. Vallejo's air brush thinner is quite tricky to use though. You have to get the right paint to thinner ratio that will work best with your air brush. Try out different combinations on an old kit or a plastic sheet before painting your models.

EDIT: There's also an air brush flow improver from Vallejo.

To get the effect I mixed my white and blue 1:1 with THIS. Then painted it very thickly with white and dabbed blue dots into the white. Then with a ton of water I swirled as best I could, letting the pooling water do as much of the work as I could. I kind of made it up as I went...that youtube video looks like it might get overall better effects--I'm also not sure you need to use paint retarder, though it did keep it pretty thick so it didn't all just blend together. Definitely something I'd like to work with more!

I've never heard of a hardener for paint. I've heard of drying retarders to lengthen the amount of time you have to work with the wet paint, and I've heard of putting a glossy clear coat of varnish over the paint before doing a matte coat to protect the mini. I've also heard of 'ard coat, the glossy finish for metallics that GW produces.

Just did a quick search for paint hardener on google. Looks like it's mostly used in enamels to give a harder, glossy finish. Minis are mostly done in Acrylics, so I doubt they work well together.

If your already thinning it to that ratio I don't think you should go any further. Vallejo has there own brand of retardant specific to their paints.

https://www.amazon.ca/Vallejo-VJ70597-Retarder-17ml/dp/B000PH9JP0

See if retarder agents might help with that. http://www.amazon.com/Vallejo-VJ70597-Retarder-17ml/dp/B000PH9JP0

For the major borders I used a Medium .7mm and for the stairs and fine details, as well as the crosshatched border a Small .3mm

I use Faber-Castell artist pens. Go through them fairly fast but they give me awesome lines. I just wish the Medium .7mm was actually a .8mm hhahaaha

Here is a link: http://www.amazon.com/Pitt-Artist-Pens-Wallet-Styles/dp/B000TKEZDO

Its an endearing model because every modeler has one like it. Pretty good job for being a first kit!

As for airbrushes... I started with the super cheap Master brand airbrush. Later on I got a Japanese made Iwata. I can say that buying the Master airbrush + compressor is the perfect starter. This is a good example: https://www.amazon.com/Master-Performance-Airbrushing-Dual-Action-Airbrush/dp/B0017640RK/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1482902837&sr=8-7&keywords=airbrush+compressor+tank

You get an airbrush that will be a perfect starter and a good compressor that will last you into your next step up airbrush.

I recommend staying with acrylic paints-- just easier to work with.

For putty, to fill seams with, I also recommend Perfect Putty. It's water based so it's easy to clean up and work with. You put some on a tray and use a toothpick to apply to a gap or seam, then wipe excess off with brush or finger. After it dries you can use sandpaper or a wet cottonswab to remove excess.

https://www.amazon.com/DELUXE-MATERIALS-DLXBD044-Perfect-Plastic/dp/B0076LAVFK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1482902965&sr=8-2&keywords=hobby+putty

What is your next kit?

I use a tablet with reference pictures, but another thing I have found useful is I have a "drawing model" doll - https://www.amazon.com/Alvin-Wooden-Mannequin-Unisex-Inches/dp/B001OBMZIE as an example - that i can pose and touch and then the model can see what I am talking about with a weird pose or look...

You could get one of those wooden human mannequins. Artsy people have those, right?

I like it! It has a few anatomy specific things though. You may want to spend more time looking at Jack's hands throughout the show. The show has a very simple-shape-y style and the hands are much easier than in other shows. Additionally, Jack looks thin but not small in the show because he has broad shoulders and a narrow waist. Your image seems to have his shoulders broad, but the pauldrons make it harder to see and he looks a bit disjointed, plus his waist is pretty wide. If you're going to be doing lots of art of people in the future, you may want to pick up something like this since human proportions are hard to draw on the best of days. One last thing, the feet are very small. They should be about as long as his forearms.

With all that out of the way, this is a very solid start, especially considering how hard it is to draw humans. Keep at it! You could end up a really great vector artist!

https://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Paint-MParker-White-35568/dp/B0026HC9F4

Ok thanks I'll look into that.

Something like this
http://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Paint-Marker-White-SN35568/dp/B0026HC9F4

??

i've got some all white NMD's and i've tried so hard to clean them. Washing machine, hand washing, jason markk, etc. Nothing works. they are still yellowing. never getting all white shoes again

What I did find is using an oil based white sharpie on the boost is MAGIC. (https://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Paint-MParker-White-35568/dp/B0026HC9F4) the boost looks brand new after a coat of it

I just bought one as a starting kit a few weeks ago. I bought the one with the compressor with attached air tank. So far it's worked great for me and it's eased me into airbrushing and airbrush maintenance without having to worry about spoiling it, because the airbrush itself is just 25 bucks or less. If you do buy it, before starting, make sure you apply thread seal tape on all male connectors, and also soak the little nozzle and small parts in a warm mix of dish soap and water.

Edit : here's the Amazon link. https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Dual-Action-TC-20T-Compressor/dp/B002KSQHB6/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1549108384&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=master+airbrush+with+air+compressor&dpPl=1&dpID=41nADShdRIL&ref=plSrch

If you live in the US, Masters Airbrushes are very affordable test beds for air brushing.

Master Airbrush Multi-purpose Gravity Feed Dual-action Airbrush Kit

With an Air Tank.

If you live in other countries, you can consider AS186. Almost the same compressor but 220V. You can get a Chinese airbrush for testing purposes.

If you like Aurbrushing, you can upgrade to more branded Airbrushes like Iwata and Badger while keeping the Compressor... Then use the budget airbrush for Priming and such.

I personally have the AS186 for a year and painted assortment of 15+ HGs and MGs with it. Used included China airbrush for a few kits before deciding to get a Sparmax Airbrush since I'm convinced I'll enjoy airbrushing

Branded Airbrush gives better control over the thickness of the line, better for pre-shading.

Keep up

Sharpie paint pen.

https://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Oil-Based-Markers-Assorted-5-Count/dp/B003YDYO1Q/ref=sr_1_4?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1497493379&sr=1-4&keywords=paint+pens

Those are the same ones I use. Alot of the celebrities comment on his much nicer they look when they sign

I have a $10 limit for my secret Santa at work and I found a set of wine glasses (4 of them) at a local thrift store for $1.50. I was stoked! I saw this thing on Pinterest about using paint pens on wine glasses so I went to Michaels with a 50% off coupon (they have one almost every week if you sign up for their emails) and bought these markers for about $6. I haven't tried it yet, and you have to bake the glass, but I imagine you can do it with any kind of glassware and would probably only need one set of markers to cover everyone? Thrift stores are also a great place to find vases for this type of project :)

Thank you! I painted it with a white oil-based sharpie - Link (But I got a single one from wal-mart for something like $2.50

This was all done free hand, I didn't plan anything out or sketch beforehand/etc. You can tell when you look fairly close that there are some drips and unintended splotches that I just worked into the design. I knew that if I planned it out beforehand I'd over-think everything and I would never actually paint it!

Damn, lol how about Fat Old Fred then?

Λολ. Θα πάρω και το recommended προιόν από κάτω.

I see your.... Whatever it is and raise you Fat Old Fred http://www.amazon.com/Life-Form-LF03749U-Fred-Black/dp/B004JOB9Z8/ref=pd_sim_sbs_indust_2

Airbrush Booth - You really shouldn't breath in the fumes. If you are painting indoors, you should use something like this to capture and filter the overspray/fumes. This is in addition to wearing a mask. You will see people in youtube tutorials not wearing masks and not using a booth - it's really bad practice if you care about your brain cells. I like the one below, but the fan is louder than the compressor.

80$ on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush®-Portable-Airbrush-Painting/dp/B00BMUH8L6?ie=UTF8&ref_=pe_385040_128020140_TE_3p_dp_1

$20- Paint mask/respirator - See notes above. I use one designed for spray painting.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-07192-Paint-Spray-Medium/dp/B0002STR22/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469825823&sr=8-1&keywords=Spray+paint+mask

Airbrush - I recommend starting cheap until you get a hang of it. It's easy to damage parts. It's been a while since I've researched, so I apologize for having forgotten the terms. You want an airbrush that is fed from a cup on top (gravity fed?), a trigger to control the air separately from the paint (maybe called dual action?), and needles .2 to .5mm. This airbrush came with a quick connect (to snap on and off of the compressor hose), which is a big convenience. They are cheap if you need to buy separately.
$30 https://www.amazon.com/PointZero-Precision-Airbrush-Valve-Crenelated/dp/B004KNDQMM?ie=UTF8&ref_=pe_385040_128020140_TE_3p_dp_1

$10Airbrush cleaner fluid and brushes - to flush the airbrush and clean it after use.

$10- Airbrush cleaning pot - You spray cleaner and excess paint into this.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005H46T0O/ref=od_aui_detailpages01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

90$ - Compressor with Tank - The separate tank is key, it will maintain constant pressure very well and provide good steady flow. This one is pretty quiet as compressors go, but still noisy enough that you need to work behind a closed door.
https://www.amazon.com/PointZero-Portable-Airbrush-Compressor-Oil-less/dp/B004KNDQCM?ie=UTF8&ref_=pe_385040_128020140_TE_3p_dp_2

$10 - Airbrush hose- https://www.amazon.com/PointZero-Airbrush-Braided-Air-Hose/dp/B004KNAH7E?ie=UTF8&ref_=pe_385040_128020140_TE_3p_dp_5

All in, it cost me $250 before paint.

I have this one as a second compressor and have had no issues. I have a larger noisy one from Home Depot I use in the garage or outdoors but for indoor use the one I linked sits under my work table.

If you are in the US I would recommend the badger airbrushs I have had great luck with mine.

I think the one I have is:

https://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-R1V-Renegade-Velocity/dp/B0013NBQLA/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1526884557&sr=8-13&keywords=Badger+airbrush

Get a gravity feed airbrush, they require lower psi to work and are just easier.


For a compressor get one with a tank it will give a nice consistent air flow. Something like this is a decent starter compressor:


https://www.amazon.com/PointZero-HP-Airbrush-Compressor-Portable/dp/B004KNDQCM/ref=sr_1_12_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1526884681&sr=8-12-spons&keywords=Badger+airbrush&psc=1

I'm pretty new to airbrushing but I recently got this airbrush and I found it suits my needs. I wanted a compressor that had a tank so I had steady airflow, a regulator, and a water trap and this unit has all three for a reasonable price. At first I went to hobby lobby too but I found all their compressors were pretty expensive even after the discount. So, I don't have any recommendations from the list but the point zero compressor is solid for the price.

You don't need anything heavy duty for airbrushing, but get one with a tank for sure.

I use this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004KNDQCM but it seems to no longer be available. It's quiet enough that I can close a door and barely hear it from the other room. Cost around $80, so target a price in that area.

From what I've read the expensive 'name brand' ones don't seem to be worth the extra price and you should just be prepared to replace the compressor every few years.

Here's my Airbrush History

• 8 Months Experience in Airbrushing (5 Completed Kits & 1 WIP)
  
  
• Started with Iwata NEO CN as my 1st Airbrush.
  
  
• My 1st Compressor was the Master Airbrush w/ Hose & Regulator.
  
  
• Painted 2 kits using the above Airbrush & Compressor using Tamiya Acrylics thinned with 1:1 91% ISO Alcohol. The 2 Kits are MG Strike Freedom & MG Nu Gundam.
  
  
• Bought a 2nd Airbrush which is the Master G23, I personally like it better than the Neo and it even came with 3 Needles and it was cheaper than when I bought the Neo.
  
  
• Painted 2 kits using the Master G23 & Master Compressor is still the same; Used Mr. Color Paints thinned w/ Leveling Thinner. Painted kits we're 1/35 Hi Nu Bust & MG Unicorn Gundam
  
  
• Currently working on a kit using the G23, Master Compressor & Mr. Color paints. Kit is the MG Sword Impulse.
  
  
• I started wearing a Mask, which is the MSA Safety Works Mask cause that shit smells like shit.
  
  
• Got a Spray Booth since I started painting inside. Generic Airbrush Spray Booth
  
  That's pretty much it from my personal experience... If you have any questions let me know and I'll try to answer it for you.
  
  Best part is the total for my Airbrush/Compressor Combo's I both bought under $100.
  
  COPY PASTED FROM MY RESPONSE ELSEWHERE

I use this http://www.amazon.com/Best-Choice-Products%C2%AE-Airbrush-Extractory/dp/B004ZH7RSM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1420160560&sr=8-2&keywords=spray+booth when airbrushing. Works well for what you pay for it, suction is good and the filter catches most particles. Make sure you get a spare filter or two, they get clogged pretty fast.

Thanks! I've looked at a few spray booths, specifically this one. Any recommendations?

So I have decided on getting a spray booth.
Does this one look alright?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004ZH7RSM/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1481355048&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=spray+booth&dpPl=1&dpID=51DA5SIaCrL&ref=plSrch

I can offer a little feedback, not a lot though, sorry. I've only ever used two types of crackle:

Agrellan Earth works well. It creates a rather fine web of cracks as it dries. A little wash, a little drybrushing, and its done. I used it on the base on the right in this picture.

I have also used Tim Holtz Distress Crackle Paint in Clear Rock Candy. This stuff is less like paint and more like a thin gel. I like it though - it gives it more versatility. Layer it on thin and you get fine cracks. Gob it on thickly and you get deeper, more dramatic cracks - larger than I've manage to get with Agrellan Earth. I got clear so I could do nifty ice effects like on this miniature..

You could probably mix it with paint, or even let it dry real good and paint over. I washed and drybrushed it for the ice, so I know paint will stick pretty well if you wanted to paint it desert colors.

https://www.amazon.com/Ranger-TDC31888-Holtz-Distress-Crackle/dp/B005FY5HCW/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=crackle+paint&qid=1554127199&s=gateway&sr=8-4

What I do is pour it so its ~1/8" thick into a flat bottomed tupperware container and let it dry for 2-3 days. After that it is nice and hard and can be broken into little pieces (kinda like the crystal blue on breaking bad lol)

Thank you!

I've used the The Army Painter inks, I've got a kit on amazon

I made everything using those inks, washes and a regular miniature brush from this regular set

I've focused on having areas of high contrast to make the mini more interesting

​

I borrowed my Aunt's airbrush just to test it so I tried in the Bat, but since it's a cheap airbrush and sometimes it clogs I've only used to give a base coat of dark red, then I went back to the basic brush

​

Im glad you liked, it makes me happy :D

I'll save you $10 immediately: A cork, and bluetac. Now you don't need to spend 9.45 on a painting handle. You also probably don't need to be starting with wet palette. A 8 colour ink set is also probably overkill, stick to black and brown and be done with it.

And I suggest swapping your brush set to this: https://www.amazon.com/MyArtscape-Detail-Paint-Brush-Set/dp/B010QLOJ3G

4 rounds, 4 liners, 2 flats.

I sincerely want to thank you for such a thorough reply! I would like to address some of your points so perhaps you can expand on them a little deeper when you have the time.

>You seem to have thinned your paints, so that's half the battle won right there. They look like they could be thinned a little bit more though, and perhaps load your brushes a little bit less.
>


I did thin the paints with small amounts of water as that seems to be the golden rule from having lurked on this sub for a few days before starting my painting, the difficulty I had this area was not really knowing how much/little to thin them and what the consistency was supposed to look like(admittedly I did not watch any youtube videos on the subject as I didnt even think about it).

>The most glaring issue I see is a lack of colour depth. Your shadows aren't particularly prominent or seem absent in some areas and there seems to be a complete lack of any highlights.
>


This was exactly what I was thinking when I was painting them and this stems from looking at the box art and thinking "wow these figures really "pop" the colors are not at all what I would expect a command team to have" and while I was painting I kept telling myself they needed to be brighter. As for shadows and highlights, I did apply nuln oil shader but I watered it down so much that it doesnt even look like its been applied. I was concerened it would make the minis too dark(i.e. the Domaru's shotgun). As for the highlights, One of the biggest issues/concepts I am having trouble wrapping my head around is the highlighting. I have watched a few videos of the procedure itself but I am having trouble mixing paint to brighten it up for highlights and then where the highlights should be applied.

> Your neatness and thoroughness are pretty good. Could use a little work but fine for a beginner.
>


Thanks! I was actually working with a set of brushes that were recommended to me that ended up being sub par in my opinion and lacked the very small brushes that were needed to get some of the very fine details. I have started to educate myself on quality brushes and the sizing numbers on what they mean.

As for the color "blocks" that had not occurred to me so thank you for pointing that out, I will definitely keep that in mind for when I start working on the next group of my army. I am not quite sure how to get those subdued shades that are present on the box art but more practice will definitely help. Thank you again for your reply!

This was perfect for me to get started:

https://www.amazon.com/PointZero-Airbrush-Dual-Action-Guns/dp/B010TQCOEE/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=POINTZERO&qid=1567225880&s=arts-crafts&sr=1-1

I have a similar one looks like just the name on the side is different

PointZero Airbrush Dual Action... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010TQCOEE?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Heres a link to the airbrush kit I started with. I got good results with the 2 gravity feed brushes it comes with. Im still using the air compressor with the Iwata brush I upgraded to:

https://www.amazon.com/PointZero-Airbrush-Dual-Action-Guns/dp/B010TQCOEE/ref=sr_1_6?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1517488015&sr=1-6&keywords=airbrush+kit

Personally, I like Tamiya branded supplies. Their kits have great details and Ill also use their masking tape, primer, and paints. I like acrylic paint in general since its easy to clean i.e. wash everything out in the kitchen sink with water.

For clear coating, Ive used testors dullcote and glosscote and had good results over Tamiya paint except for when I spray too much at once with the rattle can. For that reason Im thinking of switching to Mr. Color super clear so I can use it with my airbrush and have more control and a finer mist.

I use Microset & Microsol with my decals

Vallejo acrylic putty is easy to use. Model Master cement (for thicker more viscous applications) and Tamiya extra thin cement for the fine detail work. Tamiya line accent color (black or brown) for my panel lining. I wipe it off with testors enamel thinner.

For weathering pigments, MIG products work well or you can DIY by scraping artist pastels and using the dust created.

Finally, most of my small tools (knife, chisel/scraper, tweezers) are branded "excel". I think that is just the brand my local hobby store happens to sell.

There are of course many more options for materials/supplies that work great for modelling but this is just a sampling of the brands that I use on my kits.

I just got one and the thing is a piece of junk. I returned it and got a whole set of three really high quality airguns and a compressor for about 80 bucks. Here is the link for it btw: https://www.amazon.com/PointZero-Airbrush-Dual-Action-Guns/dp/B010TQCOEE/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1536461562&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=airbrush

Seriously considering getting an airbrush since brush painting is my least favorite part of modeling lol. I have a large stand up compressor but it doesn't have a moisture trap. Price wise to get everything I need to use my current compressor I could get this set for a little less money. I'd get a better brush down the road if I I liked airbrushing but would this be a decent starting set or should I just save up a little more and hope I enjoy it lol.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B010TQCOEE/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1486139264&sr=8-11&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=airbrush

Sure, here it is on amazon:

Moloto Liquid Chrome

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E7EFSVU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_pve4BbEQ8EQP4

Looks like they have different size tips, I was able to get the 1mm one at hobby shops near me

Used a Molotow marker
https://www.amazon.com/Molotow-Liquid-Chrome-Marker-1Mm/dp/B01E7EFSVU

model masters flat black.
also if you wanted to try a chrome look these are pretty good: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E7EFSVU/

I got mine through Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01E7EFSVU/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1481870577&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=molotow+liquid+chrome&dpPl=1&dpID=414sZoEl3EL&ref=plSrch
If Amazon isn't an option for you, try going to Molotow.com to see if they can get you a link to a local supplier. I'm in Oregon and even ordering it through Amazon, it ended up coming from the U.K., so it took several weeks to get here.

Army Painter has some some really nice washes as well.

You should definitely look at some washes/shades to really bring out the details, especially on the faces.

It's amazing how much of a difference a little wash makes. There are lots of tutorials on YouTube if you want to see how washes work.

I prefer Games Workshop washes, but Army Painter washes work well and aren't super expensive.

[Neighborhood of $28] (https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-2-0-mattest-flattest-material/dp/B0758GKKGZ). Considering that's over 6oz, it's pretty reasonable compared to, say, GW paints.

Black 2.0 is on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Stuart-Semple-mattest-flattest-acrylic/dp/B0758GKKGZ

maybe rethink your black. It's not Vanta black , but the fun disclosures and agreements made me believe it's something close. I'd take pictures but even my most non potato cameras can't capture it without a light box but here's an article

Here's the basic set that is associated to the classic Gundam colors. There are many more sets that you can buy if you are willing to search around for them.

Thanks! I use some paint pens! GSI Creos Gundam Marker Basic Set (6 Markers) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009AFN0S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9qmsDbBKTQP2B

Those are the ones I use. Take some getting used to. So practice on some junk castings first 😆😂

So i just got back from Asia and got a haul of HG and one RG and MG. I'm just getting back into Gunpla after a 10~year hiatus, and want to take a step up in to beginner level painting/panel lining/etc instead of just straight builds.

Some 1/144s I got that I want to start working on:
HGBF X-1 FullCloth (the one Lucas used in BFT)
V2 AB
HG Wing0
HGBF Wing Honoo? (Its a red.... Wing gundam?)
HD X Divider

I dont know the first thing about painting, and have watched some tutorials here and on youtube.

1. Will the Gundam Colour markers be enough for beginner level of painting and cover most generic colours? I do have painting brushes/trays from my wife's painting tools.
   
   Gundam Marker basic set
   
   Gundam Marker Metallic
   
   
2. I also brought a... thickish? panel line marker instead of a fine tip one. I think its GM301/302 or something. Lets just say i made a mess trying to panel line a SD (Gundam Base limited Musha Godmaru if that matters? ver Clear colour). Is this not used for panel lining? I bought this with recommendation from the staff at Tokyo Gundam Base (using Google Translate...)
   
   
3. I randomly bought a Gloss spray from a shop in Akihabara? I believe that is branded Mr.Hobby? Should it be used because i paint/panel line? I've seen some say before but some also after? or should a gloss coat be done with paint instead of spray?
   
   
4. I browsed around the web and see a "add-on" for HG V2 with the Wings of light effect, but can't seem to find it anywhere? Is there a way I can purchase this? I live in Canada Toronto if that matters.
   
   Thanks in advance for the random questions.

Might this be something like you were talking about?

https://www.amazon.com/GSI-Creos-Gundam-Marker-Markers/dp/B0009AFN0S

Cut with these

Sand with this

Fill in stressed plastic with these

A general pack like this, is a good starting point. If at some point you need a color outside of that set, try searching for an apporpriate color through hobbywave, or robot4less.

http://www.amazon.com/GSI-Creos-Gundam-Marker-Markers/dp/B0009AFN0S/ref=cm_lmf_tit_6


You can also use one of these for panel lining:

http://www.amazon.com/Gundam-GM01-Black-Fine-Line/dp/B0027ORJ10/ref=pd_sim_t_4

Hey everyone!

I'm as new as it gets. So, I made a shopping list after doing some research on everything that I think I need to start. I'll place the links to all the items in the lines below. Everything is on Amazon because... well why not?

Gundam

Glue

Marker

Tweezers

Knife

Cutters

Mat

More Markers!

*Krylon Matte Finish

Am I missing anything?

This is what I got. They shake like paint pens do, so I figured they were the same.

Thank you.

What is the purpose of the yellow, red and blue pens if you are just going to use the grey, black and brown ones?

So this was my first gunpla! I got impatient waiting for my gundam markers to come in (which are taking forever!) so i decided to try my hand at lining and using the decals. I wanted to put one i cared a little less about before i put together my SD Freedom Gundam. I was thinking about doing Freedom with some orange instead of blue (maybe), but wasn't sure how to do a metallic-ish orange without an airbrush :P

Thank you, which markers should I pick up? these?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009AFN0S/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A9Q1SRRTDFE7O

I bought the set of gundam markers in the link below. However, when I tried to apply the gray, the gray looked darker than the gray from the runner. I smeared it to give it a feather effect but it was still too dark to be the same color. Am I suppose to let it dry first and then it would be the same shade of gray?

Also, this shade of gray of course only works of the darker one. What color is the one from the legs? Can't be th white one.... can it?

Lastly, is there a marker for epyon's color scheme if I want to continue with this method for epyon?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009AFN0S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Looking for opinion on an airbrush to buy narrowed it down to these three.

Iwata HP-CS

Iwata Revolution CR

Paasche TG-3F

So, I saved up some money and have a break from school finally coming up. I see that alot of the badgers are decently priced (i think im going to stay away from the iwata as they are generally over 100). But is there a certain badger that you recommend? the one you originally linked seems like a good one, but is there any details with these other ones that you may have dealt with?

1)

2)

3)

[4)](http://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-200-10-Gravity-Airbrush/dp/B003970D3U/ref=sr_1_31?ie=UTF8&qid=1456908816&sr=8-31&keywords=gravity+feed+airbrush
)

5)

Im sorry for sending a bunch of links, but i'd thought id ask and see what you may say :D

The Iwata Revolution is always on sale on Amazon. For $100, this airbrush is amazing. It's what I use day to day.

Further, you could go with the Iwata NEO. I've heard great things about this airbrush, though I've never used it. It's also on sale.

I bought one very similar to yours (the $50 version I believe). It broke on the second day of use :/

I think you would be much better off getting this one or this one. I have the Iwata Eclipse now, and it's good.

This is my setup, I'm happy with it.

https://www.amazon.com/Iwata-Medea-Revolution-Action-Large-Gravity/dp/B000BQS3UWhttps://www.amazon.com/Paasche-D500SR-Compressor-Regulator-Moisture/dp/B000BR2HOO

Additionally, a decent airbrush that is a little cheaper.https://www.amazon.com/NEO-Gravity-Feed-Action-Airbrush/dp/B004INERK4Something to keep in mind, is that the NEO is NOT made by Iwata. It's a Chinese airbrush with their name on it. But I've heard it's quite decent. Here's a video on it, and it's got a great video for learning to clean your airbrush in the description. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q8YKUA2SGzU

What about the Iwata Revolution. Seems to be halfway there is terms of price, but unlike NEO is actually manufactured in Japan (supposedly higher quality). That's what I as a beginner bought and I love it.

I have that Master Airbrush kit. You get what you pay for. It worked alright for a couple uses then crapped out on me. The compressor is still kicking though and I currently use it to power my Iwata Revolution, which has taken a couple months of heavy use like a champion so far.

Save your money you are like $100 bucks off getting a decent set up.

Edit: Let me elaborate on my reasons a little bit.

You want an air compressor with a tank and an automatic on/off switch.

This will keep your airbrush from getting pulsating air and the on/off switch will extend the life of your compressor (so will the tank as it isn't running all the time). Some added bonuses is being able to work without a lot of noise.

There are some cheap ones you can buy on amazon. ( TheTC-40T and the Master Tank Compressor)

Airbrushes are tricky. but you still can get soem good ones under $100. Like the Badger Krome RK-1, Badger 105 Patriot, Iwata Neo (Not made by Iwata but supported by them), and Iwata Revolution

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQS3UW?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00

I just bought this, and it's great for me. It has a .5mm tip which would probably be considered large - they're usually .3mm. That big honkin' tip means I can blow any paint through it with little or no thinning.

I also bought the Master starter kit for like $70 that comes with a working compressor and crappy airbrush. Honestly, if it could blow the glittery createx crap that I use it would have been perfectly OK for gunpla. My plan is to use this compressor until it burns up (reviews say it will). http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TO578Q?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

Thanks for the info!

So now I'm look at the Iwata Revolution and TC-40T. Do you have any other recommendations for tanked compressors? How do you refill the airtank?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQS3UW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ACD4013XBS5C9&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WBT7PTW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A23ADOZFIJNPFB&psc=1

You want to use flow aid to thin paints. This will dilute the color without thinning the paint.

To tell the truth, you'll want both as flow aid will make paint more glossy. You can either add matte medium or varnish it with matte finish to counteract.

It's probably the same thing, but the one I bought was: Flow Aid

Add a few drops of this to your paint

Iwata Revolution, Vallejo Paints. I have this exact problem. And I am just now heading out to the local hobby store to pickup some redarder if they have it in stock.

I will report back how that goes.

You need some of this.

https://www.amazon.com/Vallejo-Airbrush-Improver-200ml-Paint/dp/B00QD780G0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482515101&sr=8-1&keywords=vallejo+airbrush

Then maybe add a few drops of retarder...

https://www.amazon.com/Vallejo-VJ70597-Acrylic-Paint-Retarder/dp/B000PH9JP0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482515136&sr=8-1&keywords=vallejo+retarder

You're fine using brush on primers. I used some Vallejo primer after seeing your brush on post and liked it as well. On the topic of paint drying on the tip, Vallejo (and many others) have a product called acrylic retarder which specifically is made to extend drying time. People mainly use it to do wet blending. But it could help you as well. You'll want to start very small (like 20:1 or 10:1 water:retarding agent) and test it out to see how much is needed.

An example of what I'm referring to.

Vallejo Acrylic Paint, Retarder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000PH9JP0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3f3GzbXDFMQM7

Looking at the photos, I'd say that you need to thin your paints a little bit more on the GW figures. Two or more coats may be required to get full coverage, but your results will look smoother.

How's the humidity where you live? We're moving into the summer months and that can affect how quickly paint dries. If it's drying too quickly, it may pick up some extra brush strokes. And if that is the case, you can either thin it farther or add some retarder medium to your stand water. I use Vallejo's. A wet palette can also help.

For fineliners, I would highly recommend Faber-Castell Pitt Artist Pens, in the thinnest tip size. But if you're going to get these, I HIGHLY recommend buying the pack with all 4 tip sizes and picking the one you like best, since a lot of people have different preferences. All the sizes will come in handy at some point for bullet journalling. They're about $10 on Amazon for the 4 pack.

If you're a student and you're planning on using your bujo to write down HW and/or you also wanna be a bit more cost efficient, I recommend gel pens. It gets really annoying to have to switch between a fineliner for writing HW and stuff in my journal and using a pen to take notes or do something for class (which is why I use a fineliner in the summer and a gel pen during the school year LOL). I recommend the Pentel Energel Gel Pen, in the 0.3 mm size. They dry super quick, so they're great to use for highlighting or if you're a leftie. And they look just as nice as a fineliner on your standard journal paper. Also great for taking notes in school because of the quick drying time. To save money, what I do is use an existing pen body I have (I have a zebra sarasa pen body) and just replace the existing ink with Pentel Energel refills. A pack of 12 refills is $11 on Amazon. I bought the refill pack a year and a half ago and still have 5 refills left. Or if you want the actual pen itself, it's $7 for a pack of 3.

Hope this helped!

CROCODILE DUNDEE!!!!! :D Now that's a knife!

Dude. Big Trouble In Little China on the big screen is awesomesauce. Resevoir Dogs is another good one of mine.

Baby Bunnies. Precious. Baby. Bunnies. Cuteness. Precious. Darlings. Sweethearts!

Pens to draw bunnies!

<3 <3 <3 <3 <3BUNNAHZZZZZ<3 <3 <3 <3 <3

cheesecake all day everyday

My favourite dessert are profiteroles mmmmmmmmmmm.

Item under $15

Draw stuff! That's what I did when my internet was out for a whole week.

Tomorrow, 9AM.

Linky

Faber-Castell Pitt Artist Pens

They go easily over acrylic paint and make really smooth lines. Lots of painters who do black outlines use them because they are more exact. I use the "brush" one and the others are good for smaller projects or watercolors. I would not recommend using anything other than the brush-tip one for paintings because the tips are too hard and much gouge the paint or ruin your pen tip.

Heres a link to the pens. I bought it off of amazon. I use the superfine size normally. Faber-Castell PITT Artists' Pen Set Black. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000TKEZDO/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_DN1czb14KM9FM

A decent sketch pad is just better than any notebook or printer paper you probably have lying around.
My favorite pens are these
This particular pack of 4 has different tip sizes. I can use all 4 of them on one good piece. Not use them up, just use each one of them.

If you want to up your game, you can use any kind of graphite pencil (even a regular #2) and some tortillons for shading. It took me a while to brave shading but it was a game changer when I took the leap.

I just pinterest for "Zentangle Patterns" and stick them all on a board and go for it. You'll build off of them and use borders. Where you find empty space, you can just search your board for something that compliments or contrasts and fits your space.

I'm real proud of the ones I've done and get a lot of compliments. I guess it means a lot because I literally can't draw a car or a dog.

Master Performance G22 Airbrushing System Kit with Master TC-20T Compressor with Air Tank, Air Hose & G22 Dual-Action Gravity Feed Airbrush https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0017640RK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jUvhAb1FG863K

It's that I also have cleaning fluid, thinning stuff, and a pot/stand. But that's pretty much it.

Master Performance G22 Airbrushing System Kit with Master TC-20T Compressor with Air Tank, Air Hose & G22 Dual-Action Gravity Feed Airbrush https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0017640RK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_AjwYAbM7FK796

this is what I started with, its a good deal not the best airbrush. I've since upgraded to a badger, but tge compressor still works 5 years later

Was this the kit?

https://www.amazon.com/Master-Performance-Airbrushing-Dual-Action-Airbrush/dp/B0017640RK/ref=sr_1_16?keywords=master+compressor&qid=1550267610&s=gateway&sr=8-16

I have this kit (more or less) https://www.amazon.com/Master-Performance-Airbrushing-Dual-Action-Airbrush/dp/B0017640RK

Definitely that compressor, and some similar Master branded airbrush. I'm lazy and inevitably end up fucking up the cleaning every few months and need to replace it, but at $26 it's not that big a deal. For a long time I just sprayed into a cardboard box near a window with a fan running, recently switched to one of the master branded spraybooths and while nicer, it's far from required.

The big issue with that compressor is that it is tankless so it is unlikely to give a good consistent flow of air. If you can I would save up a bit extra and get a compressor with a tank like this one. While it is a bit bigger it isn't that big being about the size of two 2-liter bottles staked on their side and is pretty easy to store.

I personally purchased a version of this kit a couple years back and while I have moved on to a better airbrush, I still use that same compressor.

This one and the one that comes with the air tank are on my amazon wishlist and I'm watching a ton of videos to make sure it will be a good fit for me.

Airtank airbrush

I use Master Airbrush stuff. I never used the super expensive airbrushes or whatever, and I don't plan on doing so when i can get a everything I need for a complete airbrushing solution for the price of just one airbrush.

I currently use this: https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Multi-purpose-Professional-Airbrushing/dp/B006HJCP8S/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1478092330&sr=8-9&keywords=airbrush

However I wish I had gotten one with an airtank and not just a compressor, as the compressor is always running when I'm actually brushing.

I would recommend going with this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017640RK/ref=pd_sbs_201_3?ie=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0017640RK&pd_rd_r=CS5PGKKXM5455B94V0DA&pd_rd_w=LpOU8&pd_rd_wg=rukUc&psc=1&refRID=CS5PGKKXM5455B94V0DA

It's the same as I am currently using, but comes with an airtank (And that's the lowest price I've seen for it).

If that is a little steep to jump in with, I started with this months ago:

https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-MAS-KIT-VC16-B22-Compressor/dp/B00BF0MW9G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478092330&sr=8-1&keywords=airbrush

And it has everything you need (minus paint) to get started, It's a great kit to get started, but the lack of a PSI gauge will limit you fairly quickly. And if you upgrade, the airbrush can still be kept moving forward.

I have a Master setup (mine came with different needles though,) and the brush is certainly decent for a beginner. However, I would recommend a combo with a compressor that has a tank (like this: http://amzn.to/2sTb0WB). Tanks help regulate the pressure and won't constantly run, like a tankless setup.

As for cleaning, like Jacers said, water is usually enough. You may want to pick up some airbrush cleaner to run through after a session, just to be thorough.

I second the Badger Krome series. I just started airbrushing as well and decided to purchase the Badger RK-1 Krome airbrush and it's been working great. A decent compressor for a decent price is the Master Airbrush Compressor. I have the one with the water trap but not tank (an oversight on my part), but even without the tank, it has a shutoff feature whenever you hit the set PSI. This is the one with the water trap and air tank: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0017640RK?psc=1

This is the thing I was talking about

If you can, buy yourself one of these, and some water based clay to get a hang on anatomy and positioning. Good luck!

Oil pens

The best thing for painting the boost is the sharpie oil markers
https://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Paint-MParker-White-35568/dp/B0026HC9F4
Amazon.com: Sharpie Oil Paint MParker Bold White (35568 ...

they do make one:
http://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Paint-Marker-White-SN35568/dp/B0026HC9F4

If I remember correctly, people were using a white sharpie. Use the search bar.

Edit: http://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Paint-Marker-White-SN35568/dp/B0026HC9F4

Got a cheap one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002KSQHB6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_5M-GDbKX1X3P9. Works fine for me, but I'm still pretty new to it. Nice for priming (with the 0.5 tip) and basecoating at least.

I prefer this one. I recently upgraded my compressor to this one from the 80 USD one and do not regret it.

Oh great wizards of plastic! Newb airbrushing question. I am stuck on trying to decide which is more worth it for gunpla. I have found these two are decently off, but one comes with a few extras. I just do not know if the extras are needed for the extra price. Here are exhibit a and exhibit b. What do you lot think?

I got this one off Amazon: Gravity Feed Multi-Purpose Airbrushing System Kit with a Pro Set G222 Master Airbrush with 3 Nozzle Sets (0.2, 0.3 & 0.5mm Needles, Fluid Tips and Air Caps) - Powerful Compressor with Air Storage Tank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002KSQHB6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ES-QCbZCKBJE9

Worked really well, glad I got the one with the tank!

its a master. i bought the kit off amazon ,
its this set
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002KSQHB6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002KSQHB6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1#customerReviews

This is the model I use! I'm not sure where you're located -- but I use the Master Airbrush G222 and my airbrush is dual action

use these. you can re-apply after crashes to keep looking fresh

I've heard oil markers work really well

like these:
https://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Oil-Based-Markers-Assorted-Metallic/dp/B003YDYO1Q/ref=ice_ac_b_dpb?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1526382073&sr=1-1&keywords=sharpie+paint+pen

https://www.amazon.com/Nasco-Fat-Old-Fred-Black/dp/B004JOB9Z8/ref=pd_sbs_121_5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=D5ZRJS30VP37S4PZDENY

Your order has been added to your cart

https://www.amazon.com/Nasco-Fat-Old-Fred-Black/dp/B004JOB9Z8

u know how satisfied u will nbe if uy clicj on one foi rthese linkish

https://www.amazon.com/Uncle-Jims-Worm-Farm-Composting/dp/B000Q5S7RM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491257886&sr=8-1&keywords=worms

https://www.amazon.com/Dummy-Display-Phone-Model-Non-working/dp/B01MTVDPOQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491257901&sr=8-1&keywords=fake+iphone

https://www.amazon.com/Nasco-Fetus-13-Weeks/dp/B004JOD3G6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491257919&sr=8-1&keywords=fetus

https://www.amazon.com/Nasco-Fat-Old-Fred-Black/dp/B004JOB9Z8/ref=pd_sbs_328_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B004JOB9Z8&pd_rd_r=80Y6TG8QQ7R4GMA6TJEH&pd_rd_w=SAtuy&pd_rd_wg=dARaX&psc=1&refRID=80Y6TG8QQ7R4GMA6TJEH

https://www.amazon.com/RCA-RCT6103W46H-10-inch-Android-Keyboard/dp/B013LAHT40/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491257959&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=rca+tablet&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Whitelabel-Bluetooth-Dongle-Compatible-BlueSoleil/dp/B00E86EFY4/ref=sr_1_25?ie=UTF8&qid=1491257981&sr=8-25&keywords=bluetooth+dongle

https://www.amazon.com/FunKo-FUN5545-Shrek/dp/B00WMMTUNW/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1491258011&sr=8-13&keywords=shrek

[thasnk gpeopel fmor all yur support

u know how satisfied u will nbe if uy clicj on one foi rthese linkish

https://www.amazon.com/Uncle-Jims-Worm-Farm-Composting/dp/B000Q5S7RM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491257886&sr=8-1&keywords=worms

https://www.amazon.com/Dummy-Display-Phone-Model-Non-working/dp/B01MTVDPOQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491257901&sr=8-1&keywords=fake+iphone

https://www.amazon.com/Nasco-Fetus-13-Weeks/dp/B004JOD3G6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491257919&sr=8-1&keywords=fetus

https://www.amazon.com/Nasco-Fat-Old-Fred-Black/dp/B004JOB9Z8/ref=pd_sbs_328_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B004JOB9Z8&pd_rd_r=80Y6TG8QQ7R4GMA6TJEH&pd_rd_w=SAtuy&pd_rd_wg=dARaX&psc=1&refRID=80Y6TG8QQ7R4GMA6TJEH

https://www.amazon.com/RCA-RCT6103W46H-10-inch-Android-Keyboard/dp/B013LAHT40/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491257959&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=rca+tablet&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Whitelabel-Bluetooth-Dongle-Compatible-BlueSoleil/dp/B00E86EFY4/ref=sr_1_25?ie=UTF8&qid=1491257981&sr=8-25&keywords=bluetooth+dongle

https://www.amazon.com/FunKo-FUN5545-Shrek/dp/B00WMMTUNW/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1491258011&sr=8-13&keywords=shrek

[thasnk gpeopel fmor all yur support

Even better. Fat Old Fred

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004JOB9Z8/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_236_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=P38HWHG1YGYGVNP01ZW5&dpPl=1&dpID=51s7hCHnqQL

https://www.amazon.com/PointZero-Portable-Airbrush-Compressor-Oil-less/dp/B004KNDQCM/

Compressor reliability does seem to be a crapshoot. I have a paasche cheapie ~100 bucks i bought 4 years ago that is still alive and kicking with intermittent use.

My advice would be to try out a cheaper one first. The one I linked comes with an airtank too. I just don't think 2.6x the cost is justified for compressor internals.

That's a full sized compressor, but same theory :-).

You need an airbrushing one. Have a look at these:

https://www.amazon.com/PointZero-HP-Airbrush-Compressor-Portable/dp/B004KNDQCM/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1521943135&sr=1-3-spons&keywords=airbrush+compressor&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-Co-TC910-Compressor/dp/B005UH7CVI/ref=sr_1_21?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1521943135&sr=1-21&keywords=airbrush+compressor

Not sure where you are located, but try art or model supply shops, search for "airbrush compressor". They should go for around $100-200. You only need 1/5 to 1/4 HP as you only need to reach up to 30 psi (most spraying would be 18-25 psi).

I bought this compressor along with a Iwata Neo airbrush and a 6' hose. Came out to around 150$ total.

That compressor's like a 3rd the cost of some other compressors with the same features. And while it's only been a month, I haven't had a single issue with it.

[has done me well so far] (https://www.amazon.com/PointZero-HP-Airbrush-Compressor-Portable/dp/B004KNDQCM/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?crid=1OPK6CK3N0BZL&keywords=pointzero+airbrush&qid=1555382635&s=gateway&sprefix=pointzer&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1)

Also Looking at this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004KNDQCM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=A3KUYHN7HI5ZSF&psc=1

Someone posted a great set of videos by a guy who is a real "no-nonsense" airbrusher. His thought is that you use lacquer thinner (basic cheap stuff from a hardware store) to clean EVERYTHING. Even acrylics. Going with that approach I don't think it really matters.

I mostly spray acrylics and the Allclad stuff (which is Lacquer), but have used some enamels without any issues. Just thin it with actual proper thinner, and don't waste the good thinner on cleaning the thing.

Not sure about the Paasche, but the Iwata's are similar quality wise I think, and they all have seals that can handle any of the solvents, so the brush itself won't have an issue with any of the paints.

With any "kit" I think you are making tradeoffs. I would spend the money on a good brush, double action (whatever your preference for brand). I have found the .3mm needle size (some are .35) to be the most versatile. Iwata HP-C can be had for $150 or so. I am sure Paasche has a similar one.

For compressor I have been very happy with this one which was pretty inexpensive:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004KNDQCM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I am sure you can get a better one, and with any of these "knock-offs" there are some risks as quality control may not be as consistent with the brand name ones. Compressor will have a much smaller impact on your quality of life than the airbrush itself. If you eventually got tired of the lower volume tank and too much running, or wanted something fancier or quieter, or if it ends up crapping out after a coulle of years you can trade up. As long as it holds pressure, and has a reasonable regulator and water trap, the compressor itself won't give you any problems until it dies. A cheap airbrush, on the other hande, will be miserable and frustrating every time you use it. Or worse, will be fine up until the point that it spits out a gob of stuff in the middle of an almost perfect paint job (speaking for a friend of course ;-) )

I can't say the product is terribly durable but mine is still going two years later, crack a window and point the hose outside

Folds up nicely if you are in a small space, put a sheet of cardboard down under it overspray tends to sneak thru the seams where it folds sometimes

https://www.amazon.com/Airbrush-Spray-Extractor-Crafts-Figurines/dp/B004ZH7RSM

Open a window, it should be fine. If you are really concerned you should get a spray booth. Example.

I got this.

Considering going into airbrushing but not sure if I should build a DIY booth or buy a portable one. I just wanted to hear some experiences with either and was wondering how often I would need to replace filters/how difficult is it to replace the filters on a portable booth (including finding new parts + installing said parts)

PS. I was interested in this booth
https://www.amazon.com/Airbrush-Spray-Booth-Paint-Extractory/dp/B004ZH7RSM

Non-mobile: this is the one I bought

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

I just picked up a spray booth from Amazon surprisingly cheap and does a good job at not letting the strong smell permeate the space. this is the one I bought

Oh, I know that basing! Tim Holtz Distress Crackle Paint! I have a jar of it, but I haven't used any of it yet. It turned out perfect! I am also guessing we watched the same youtube video :P

Just going to leave this here;

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005FY5HCW

I bought this same product last week.

Ranger Tim Holtz 4 oz Rock Candy Distress Crackle Paint

Testors Matte spray, I assume? You said I should do matte followed by gloss, but I read that I should do gloss (for durability) followed by matte (for non-shiny appearance). Which is best?

I may have to go with Vallejo paints if I can find them, as they're frequently recommended and come in droppers (which I think will be less fuss).

I read that cheap brushes will be more frustrating than they are worth, and since my free time is scarce, I planned on using nicer brushes. What would you recommend for a cheap brush set that's not a pain in the ass? Something like [this on Amazon, $15] (https://www.amazon.com/Detail-Paint-Brush-Set-Watercolor/dp/B010QLOJ3G)?

I'll post it here, so others can see.

Paint: Miniature Painting Kit with Bonus... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MTXRUUT?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Brushes: MyArtscape Detail Paint Brush Set -... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010QLOJ3G?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Printer: Monoprice Mini Delta 3D Printer With... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CJQ3D6L?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Thanks for the recommendations

After finding no hobby store with paint near me, I finally pulled the trigger on $22 red spray primer, $39 paint set, and $14 brushes on Amazon. Thankful that this game is so cheap at $75 because the paints really kicked it up!

I looked at a lot of reviews, if anyone is curious:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010QLOJ3G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AC4LATI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004EKCOE2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Looking to get my first air-brush kit so I can start to do proper paint jobs. I found this on Amazon and was wondering if the community thought this would be a good starter kit?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010TQCOEE

I found a kit on amazon for around 80 bucks. It came with a compressor and three types of airbrushes.
PointZero Airbrush Dual Action Airbrush Kit with 3 Guns https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010TQCOEE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_8mMivZb67PArw
It's not top quality, but I've been happy with it, and it comes with a DVD that has tons of useful info for a beginner on it.

What are your thoughts on something like this? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010TQCOEE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_Pc.LzbPHQ3Z47

Thinking for a beginner to get their feet wet, and have a few junk(?) brushes to learn on so you don't have to worry about totally screwing up one of the $100+ airbrushes?

Is this a good set up sir? PointZero Airbrush Dual Action Airbrush Kit with 3 Guns https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010TQCOEE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_frLPCb08VJ4FC

Hey man, I've been using the air compressor from this for over a year and it performs admirably: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010TQCOEE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Only downside is that it's slightly noisy but It has an adjustable pressure and works very well for the price. I personally use a PSI of 30 or so but if you wanna be a cowboy and use 50 you certainly can.

This is what I used! Applies a chrome looking effect to the plastic

Molotow Liquid Chrome Marker 1Mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E7EFSVU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_mlgEtASVTj7qJ

Cool, thanks for the reply. When I do chrome work I just used a silver sharpie but your work looks much, much nicer.

Edit: Found it on Amazon for those others that may be interested

I can only afford one right now, which size would you recommend?

https://www.amazon.ca/Molotow-ONE4ALL-Acrylic-Marker-703-101/dp/B01E7EFSVU/ref=sr_1_1?crid=ES5LM22C2ZRE

Looks awesome. It looks like you got some of the rivets, but a nice little tool I've recently found is this little pen. It's been super helpful and really makes the small details pop.

Should of bought a Molotow pen.

Yeah, that's the right one. Sorry I said chrome earlier-- i had read either on RWI or RG where someone was trying this one..

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E7EFSVU/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A79CLRHOQ3NF4

but metallic silver is the safe bet.

Tikteck A4 Ultra-thin Portable LED Light Box Tracer USB Power Cable Dimmable Brightness LED Artcraft Tracing Light Box Light Pad for Artists Drawing Sketching Animation Stencilling X-rayViewing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M26S3VY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_t5j7CbVYHR58V

Got something like this for my classroom.

I also said that you could "get away without the extra torso", so save yourself the re-draw if you're happy with it, just work on the arms.

I know that it's a couple extra bucks, but some tracing paper and/or a light box might really help with revisions. You can get them at any art store.

https://www.amazon.com/Artists-Tracing-Sheets-Translucent-Sketching-Lightweight/dp/B0788K7D3K/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1525955462&sr=8-13&keywords=tracing+paper
https://www.amazon.com/Ultra-thin-Brightness-Sketching-Stencilling-X-rayViewing/dp/B01M26S3VY/ref=pd_sim_229_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01M26S3VY&pd_rd_r=45M3ZZWCPYYH9E7AWSEC&pd_rd_w=ZPgFf&pd_rd_wg=UYM5X&psc=1&refRID=45M3ZZWCPYYH9E7AWSEC

I recommend this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M26S3VY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought it for class and has been working great for me.

Thanks for the suggestions! She actually got a disappearing ink pen recently and was pretty pumped about it. I don't think she has a magnetic needle holder, so I'll look into that!

I was also thinking a light box, she mentioned she wanted one but I don't know if there are any differences based on the material being traced. This was the model I had in mind: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M26S3VY/ref=crt_ewc_title_huc_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A21H40ERIBU45K

So this:

https://smile.amazon.com/Citadel-Shade-Paint-Games-Workshop/dp/B00KOD3FM8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1519681521&sr=8-4&keywords=paint+wash

or this?:

https://smile.amazon.com/Nontoxic-Miniature-Washes-Dropper-Bottles/dp/B0714QL55V/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1519681988&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=army+painter+wash&psc=1

For primer is there a benefit to using paint on, vs spray? I think the bases will be separate from my pieces. So I would think a spray can of like, white, grey, and black would be my best bet?

First some basics:

for miniature painting we use acrylic colours and there are a lot of different brands available some are more famous among miniatures and scale models (because they have specific colours available, like the one you linked is a palette fur US WW2 military colours) some are more often used by artists and all of them have their advantages. The same with brushes and in the end it is more about personal preference and availability (makes no sense to buy the brand people say it is good but you have to order it while something of equal quality is available in the store around the corner and for a beginner a more basic set with ~10 basic colours is better than such a specific one)

For the brushes you want something similar to this https://www.amazon.com/Detailing-Watercolor-Miniature-Ergonomic-Precision/dp/B004HHIO50/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=army+painter+brushes&qid=1550092128&s=gateway&sr=8-10

in addition to the one you linked because you need more straight/fine detail ones and some larger one depending on the techniques used (dry brushing for example)

​

The only thing that I really recommend is to use a caned spray primer as colours won't stick very well to the pure plastic surface and you already have a basecoat if you use a coloured one. But it need to be a Primer and not a spray colour. I prefer Army Painter but mostly because of the colours available

Another thin would be Washes which are kind of thinner colours that add a translucent layer to the model or are used for blacklining

https://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-Warpaints-Quickshade-Wash/dp/B0714QL55V/

(I also prefer Army Painter over Vallejo here, but the link is more for the example pictures)

​

For a beginner, a coloured Primer and a Wash can already give good (and fast) results on models like Stormtroopers

​

The Army Painter Warpaints Quickshade Wash Set - Miniature Painting Kit of 11 Dropper Bottles with Fluid Acrylic Paint Color Washes https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0714QL55V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ay-JDbGNRG16A

This is what I got and I like it a lot. Plenty of washes and not too expensive.

doot

Black 2.0 is not "sick as hell" at all. It's just matte black paint. Don't make my mistake and buy into the manufactured social media hype. I had a use in mind for it (blackening the inside of a telescope tube) and it did worse than the factory coating when I did a test splotch. I also recommend looking at the 2.9 out of 5 star Amazon reviews with more pictures if one test isn't enough.

https://i.imgur.com/OW2yOIp.jpg

It should be noted that Semple also released his own version called “Vantablack 2.0” not quite as black but still very very black.

https://www.amazon.com/Stuart-Semple-mattest-flattest-acrylic/dp/B0758GKKGZ

If you're wanting to do it go with https://www.amazon.com/Stuart-Semple-mattest-flattest-acrylic/dp/B0758GKKGZ

It's apparently not as black.

https://www.amazon.com/Stuart-Semple-mattest-flattest-acrylic/product-reviews/B0758GKKGZ/ref=cm_cr_dp_d_show_all_btm?ie=UTF8&reviewerType=all_reviews

Don't let your dreams be dreams. About $20 on Amazon.