Best paper trimmers & blades according to redditors

We found 125 Reddit comments discussing the best paper trimmers & blades. We ranked the 52 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Rotary paper trimmers
Stack paper trimmers
Paper trimmer blades

Top Reddit comments about Paper Trimmers & Blades:

u/skittles_rainbows · 11 pointsr/specialed

Ok. Did some reading.

I'm not going to sugar coat this because well, I don't believe in that.

Welcome to the dark side. We have goldfish crackers. (BTW my roommate was an aide for 20 years and said that they are convenient because if they are attacking you, you can throw them at them and it will distract them for a while.) Invest in goldfish crackers and fruit loops. They make good rewards.

Buy this book. I really wish someone had recommended me that book before I stepped into an autism classroom. I reread it now every once in a while and still learn new things.

Start here. Go through the rest of her blog. Subscribe to it. She runs an excellent easy to understand blog.

Visuals are insanely important. Subscribe to LessonPix. Your school may have Board Maker, but I find it very difficult to use. Plus, LessonPix is online based so you can create something at home and then access it at school or vice versa. It is like $36 a year, which is insanely cheap. For my visuals, I usually put a picture with the word on the bottom.

You will need velcro. Do not buy it from a store. This is a wholesale place online. They have the cheapest velcro out there. I buy coins so I don't have to cut it, it makes it a lot easier. If you are going to cut velcro, get titanium scissors. They will not gum up when cutting velcro. Have a system with your velcro so you don't have random patterns of velcro. I usually do soft on a surface and rough on anything that travels.

You are going to need a personal laminator. My binding has the cheapest 5 mil laminating sheets out there. Use 5 mil for anything that travels and if its going to stay on a wall, use 3 mil. 3 mil or 1 mil (what the school laminating machine uses) tears easily and doesn't last. Once you create something, you don't want to lose it. Most any laminator will do. I like the Fellowes brand. This is a very good one. That my binding website has some awesome deals on laminators. Whatever you get, just make sure it doesn't need a carrier sleeve to laminate because those are annoying. Just make sure that if you from 5 mil to 3 mil you switch the laminator over to 3 mil and let it cool or there will be a burning smell. To save time I bought one of these. Just makes cutting faster.

Don't overspend on stuff for the classroom. Look at oriental trading post. You can find a lot of stuff there. Sign up for the newsletter and wait from a free shipping coupon, don't pay for shipping.

Get yourself a couple pairs of these. I like the 18 inch ones. Make sure your tetnus shot is up to date.

You probably need to brush up on your evidence based practices for autism too.

I know this is a lot of information. But these are all things I wish people would have told me before I started teaching this level of autism kiddos. I went into it blind. I've had to put all this together through reading, training, and observation. Its easier just to be front loaded with the information.

My first year teaching, I was put in a K-1 mod/severe autism class (your setting 3). It was the first autism specific class at the school. Nobody gave me any support. I had no idea what I was doing. I had very little formal training on autism specific teaching. It was like being sucked into a vortex in deep water with nobody around to help me. I didn't even know where to go for information. That's why I try to help people and be completely honest. I'm not trying to overwhelm you.

If you need help and support, let me know. My MA.Ed is in Special Ed with a specialty in Autism Spectrum Disorder. I am teaching a class similar to yours at an elementary school level next year. I'm really good at dealing with behaviors and data too.

u/simsarah · 7 pointsr/weddingplanning

I would recommend against a guillotine style cutter for this kind of work, it's very easy to get a slightly curved line on them if you aren't careful - one of the craft cutters would probably be better... something like

u/thetunnelrat · 7 pointsr/boardgames

My group absolutely loves the game. We've been playing it for about 4 of the last 5 evenings straight. My one house rule is that the mission objective does not fly off the map (unless it is supposed to). I will alter it's movement to just skirt the edge every time. No one wants to spend 45 minutes working to capture a shuttle only to have the AI card fail it.

To anyone interested in playing the campaign I have a few notes:

  1. Use a professional print shop.


  2. Make sure you have a good color printer and buy some card stock to print the materials out on. Without looking I would estimate there were about 30-40 pages worth of things to print aside from the ~80 page manual.

  3. Have the print shop laminate the materials except for the player ship cards. Or buy one if printing yourself.

  4. On that note buy a paper cutter. Something like this is fine and it will save you a massive amount of time.

  5. Have a good number of ships. The last mission we played had around 8 Tie Fighters and 2 Tie Interceptors on the board at once. We have 4 players, and the number and type of ships on each mission is adjusted by number of players and average pilot skill. Now, that doesn't mean go buy 10 Tie Fighters, but you will need at good number of bases and ship cards. It doesn't matter which as you only really need them for their range fans and movement nubs. The cards included with the game will show all applicable stats. We usually end up with Tie fighters being proxied by Phantoms, Advanced, or whatever other imperial ships are not currently being used.

  6. Table space. As you probably already know X-Xing is not a small area game. With HotAC you not only need space for up to 6 players, their cards, tokens etc, but also a spot to place the AI maneuver templates, cards, tokens, etc. Out table is about 5'x3' and I needed a tray table to house the AI cards as the other game stuff had taken up all the space.

  7. Read the manual at least twice, and reference it constantly for a game or two. I noticed that I had missed several details (some important, most minor) as I didn't notice their importance until I was actually playing the game.

  8. If you have the opportunity TRY THE GAME! It's freakin awesome. My girlfriend has zero interest in the base X-Wing game, but cannot get enough of the RPG.
u/Luke_Matthews · 6 pointsr/boardgames

The Logan Foamwerks Straight Cutter has been a godsend for me for making inserts. It cuts straight and square in a single pass, and the blades last exponentially longer than normal XActo blades. It's fantastic.

If you're picking one up tomorrow, I strongly suggest also grabbing an Adapt-A-Rule along with it. The Adapt-A-Rule has a channel that the Logan cutters fit into that guides them, ensuring a perfectly straight cut.

I consider those two tools an absolute necessity.

u/Deusis · 6 pointsr/Leathercraft


Section 1: Tools


Note: Just because it is more expensive doesn't mean it is better. You could get by just fine with the "cheaper" options.

| Tool | Required vs. Optional | Use | Notes | Price & Link |
| Tandy Wholesale Membership | O | Allows you to get better pricing at Tandy. | This is definitely optional. Items will cost slightly more without it OR if you have a tax ID you can get the membership with better pricing for free. | $35 / Free|
| Awl Haft | R | The handle which will hold your blade. | This particular haft allows for different blades to be added or removed with ease. | $16 / $35|
| Diamond Awl Blade| R | This is the blade used for piercing the holes in your projects.| This goes in the awl haft.| $4.80 / $28
| Channel Groover | R | Used to measure and gouge channels where your thread will lay. | Some say gouging a channel is optional however I find it to be required. It further protects your thread from damage. | $16 / $80 |
| Overstitch Wheel | R | Marks where you will punch your holes. | This particular overstitch wheel is a few dollars more than the versions that only offer one wheel. | $24 / $225 |
| Edge Beveler | R | Used to bevel and round off the edges of your project prior to burnishing. | Sizes vary. The smaller the number, the smaller the round edge. | $12 / $55 |
| Adhesive Glue | O | Used to hold your pieces of leather together prior to piercing the holes. | Some people prefer binder clips instead of glue. I've found that the clips end up making marks on my projects so I've always stuck with glue. | $6 / $30 |
| Gum Tragacanth | R | Used as a burnishing agent for your edges.| Some people use saddle soap. I prefer gum trag.| $6.40 / $21|
| Harness Needles | R | Used in combination with the thread for your projects. | Avoid the stitching needles. They break very easily.| $5.99 / $7.50 |
| Xacto Blade | R | Used for cutting projects. | You may have one of these at home already. Be ready to have replacement blades handy ($21.95) | $2.49 / $50 |
| Self-Healing Cutting Mat | R | Used for cutting your leather projects.| You may have one of these at home already. If so, you can obviously use that.| $14.73 / $50.80 |
| Cork-backed Ruler| R | Used for cutting straight lines.| I highly recommend the cork-backed version. It will save from accidental cuts/slips.| $4.80 / $14 |
| Burnishing Tool | R | Used in combination with the gum tragacanth to get a good burnish.| A good piece of canvas can be used as well. | $8.99 / $80 + $99|
| Sanding Tool| O | Used to sand down the edges prior to burnishing.| You might have sandpaper at home. Feel free to use that too.| $7.30 / $0 with dremel|
| Steel Square | O | Used for creating nice, even squares/rectangles for projects. | Learn to use this correctly!| $8 / $14|
| Thread Cutters | O | Use these for cutting your thread in the hard to reach places without running the risk of damaging your project. | Scissors work for cutting thread and the xacto blade can work for cutting thread inside your projects -- just be careful! | $3.95 / $39 |
| Maul | O | Used for end punches, rivets, snaps, chisels, or irons. | You really only need one of these if you are planning on doing any of the activities mentioned previously. | $20 / $55 |
| Pricking Iron/Chisel | O | Use these to mark or punch your holes instead of an overstitch wheel and awl. I prefer using the overstitch wheel and awl but others like the irons/chisels. | There is a big difference between irons vs. chisels, diamond vs. lacing. They all produce different results. Definitely ask before purchasing! The ones I linked are very different.| $12 / $259|
| Creaser | O | Used for decorative creases on things like card slots. | Definitely optional and definitely personal preference. | $14.40 / $72 |
| Wax | O | Used for burnishing. Gives the edges a nice seal. | The $10 is my top secret wax I use. I bought a bunch on sale for $5 and it is fantastic. | $4 / $10|



Buy some high quality cardstock, get yourself a cheap papercutter, a 1/8" hole puncher (like $4 after a Joannes coupon), and with a little bit of design skills you're all set to make your own hang tags! I usually attach them with some of that really nice little and silky looking embroidery floss attached to a tiny gold safety pin or loop it around anything with a loop.

u/Darth_Meatloaf · 5 pointsr/boardgames

So I posted a 2-picture album yesterday of my World of Warcraft: The Board Game box both before and after I made tuck boxes for all of the cards. (link)

I got a lot of questions about what I used and how I did it, so I decided to do a small how-to covering the assembly of tuck boxes for your various games.

If you guys have any questions, please feel free to ask. I'll be posting some additional information shortly.

EDIT: I'm aware that BGG has a repository of tuck box images for download - print, cut and done. I put this up because most of the tuck box patterns on BGG are for cards without sleeves, and figured that knowing what tools to use would be helpful.

Speaking of materials or tools:

The storage containers I use for the tokens in WoW:TBG

The scoring table I use

My cutting table

u/Founders_Game · 5 pointsr/boardgames

I've got some ideas. What exactly do you need a laminator for? And are you in a decent sized city?

The Pixma Pro-100 handles cardstock perfectly. It's not going to be the most amazing print quality on most cardstocks. You need special inkjet paper which tends to be expensive. But I find it is more than adequate for my purposes using regular cardstock. I got mine on sale + a big mail in rebate that came with a Visa cash card. Overall I paid about $130 for it which is pretty good imo. I print on both sides of some real thick cardstock and then just cut them out with the paper cutter I'm going to link below. The other good thing about the printer is it handles larger paper sizes. I have 13x19 inkjet paper that it takes and the prints come out incredibly good. And that's a pretty decent size for printing the stuff I'm going to attach to chipboard.

(If you go the Pixma route, I suggest looking at some bulk inks. It has reduced my costs significantly)

I use this for a paper cutter. Works fine. You might do well to find a way to shine a light from underneath the swing arm to line up cuts but it's plenty good enough without it.

I use this corner rounder. I've done thousands of cards with it. Still good. I think if I had to buy it again though I'd look for something that was more like a traditional hole punch in using your whole hand. The one I linked gets your fingers sore after a while.

The reason I asked about where you live is because if you live in a good sized city, you may have access to fab labs. My public library has one with a laser cutter. It makes making tokens a breeze. And because it's at the library for me, it's freeeeeeee. Print on some label paper. Slap the fronts and backs onto a sheet of chipboard. Stick it in the laser cutter and voila, perfect tokens. They'll come out slightly singed but overall they're great.

How much are you going to print and play?

If it's not a lot, I would say just skip the printer. It's $130 at its cheapest and that's not even counting the cost of replacing the ink. If you're only going to print a few games and they're not that intense, just go to a local printshop and use their high quality business laser printers. They print super sharp into label paper and card stocks. Print the fronts on one, the backs on the other, stick em together, cut it out with the paper cutter. It's a bit of work but the finished product looks great.

u/accidentalgaleano · 4 pointsr/IndustrialDesign

Got an HFS Guillotine-style Paper Cutter for my gf -


Handle swivels up and down, and it's strong, so you can cart this sucker around.


The arm pops right off and fits between the cutter and the handle when it swivels up.


Grid on the platform.


It's just a beaut.

u/Chairman_Mittens · 4 pointsr/Calgary

I'm also into Gundam models and I went through the same thing a while back.. I probably tried a dozen types of side cutters until I found ones that work. The problem is many of the jewelers cutters don't have a straight edge, since they are designed to cut metal. So even if the edge of the blade is flush with the piece you cut, you still get end up with some plastic attached.

These are by FAR the best ones I've found:

The blades are very sharp, and they're small enough to get into tight spaces. I would suggest you order a couple pairs. These even blow away the Tamiya cutters you posted (I bought those too and they sit in a drawer unused).

Note that regardless of how close you get the cut, you will still need to cut / file away the extra plastic bit on the piece. I use an x-acto knife with the following blades:

Then use a series of finer files to get the piece smooth.

u/KnuckleSangwich · 4 pointsr/pcgaming

Hah, ok...I'll get a few more up before Christmas at least!

Ordered one of these bad boys just to keep this up for you all:

u/anonymoooooooose · 4 pointsr/photography

> Although it does have his name huge on the bottom

I bet the local copy shop has one of these!

u/Molag_Balls · 3 pointsr/longevity

Imagine you have a piece of paper, and you want to use it for an art project. Obviously this project, in order to really flourish, will require you to cut the paper, and paste it back together in different patterns.

Imagine now that the only things available for you to cut the paper are expensive paper cutters that only the really committed or well financed paper artists can afford. You can probably still do your project, but you'll have to rely on big players in the paper art world to provide the resources.

Someone just invented scissors, but they're still sort of on the pricy side, and rather hard to use, requiring training and theoretical papercraft knowledge to use effectively. Nevertheless everyone is freaking out over how much easier and more precise scissors are when compared to previous bulky methods. Lots of new artistic avenues open up, but still only to the big players for the most part.

Suddenly somebody invents a cheap consumer pair of scissors and makes them widely available. Anybody can now cut and paste together all the paper they want.

Some artists are worried about the ramifications this will have on the paper art world, as amateur paper artists will likely flood the market with ill thought out artistic projects. The world will sour to the idea of anyone and their mother making paper art, and the doors will close on amateur paper artistry.

If your DNA is paper, the scissors are crispr, and the art projects are the results of synthetic biology experiments, that's basically a brief history of crispr/cas9

I probably went too deep into the metaphor, but whatever.

u/jarkyttaa · 3 pointsr/tabletopgamedesign

For all my prototype needs, standard cardstock ( and a decent paper cutter ( will get you ~2000 cards worth of paper for ~$40. It also allows you to print your prototypes, which isn't really an option with blank playing cards.

u/destructogrrrrrl · 3 pointsr/PlanningAddicts

I don't know of any stores, but I make my washi thinner by sticking long strips of it to some wax paper and using a paper trimmer to slice it down to size. Then I just cut it to size when needed.

This is the trimmer I use

Sorry for the shitty link. I'm on mobile.

u/TheRealTieral · 3 pointsr/Charcuterie

I use a Jielisi 12 inch scrapbooking cutter for my bolts of sealing material. Scrapbook paper cutter

Since I buy 50 foot rolls of 11" and 8" vac sealer bag material, I put an adjustable paper towel holder on 1 end, feeding the material into the cutting area. 3 years now, no problems making clean, straight cuts. Hope this helps!!

u/[deleted] · 3 pointsr/gifs

Yes. You can even borrow office supplies if you have a waist high table.

u/MeowPrincessSandwich · 3 pointsr/RandomActsofCards

Welcome to the sub! We are happy to have you around!

I totally agree with all of the advice u/ImOkReally gave. I'll also add that a paper cutter is invaluable! I use one like this, but the cheaper version. I got it for $15 at Michaels.

u/Ceilidh_ · 2 pointsr/BrushCalligraphy

I know you said you can’t be trusted with scissors, BUT... if you’re going to be doing a lot of smaller sized work, you might be pleasantly surprised at how user friendly paper trimmers have gotten to be. Fiskars makes a really nice one that cuts paper up to 12”x12”, has a self-sharpening blade, measuring grid (premarked for 4x6 and 5x7’s) and a groovy mechanism that ensures a completely straight cut. It sells on Amazon for $21. It will cut up to 5 sheets of regular paper at a time but can also handle stuff like card stock.
Fiskars 152490-1004 SureCut Deluxe Craft Paper Trimmer, 12 Inch

u/kevinb9n · 2 pointsr/boardgames

Once laminating you'll need a paper trimmer too. The $10 kind work fine (this is mine but there are a hundred like it)

Tip: get both regular and matte laminating pouches. The regular keeps your colors bright and text super clear, but if it's something that lays flat on the table, the glare will kill you! Plus the matte finish feels ridiculously cool.

u/Thespeckledkat · 2 pointsr/bookbinding

My husband treated me to a guillotine similar to this only larger, years ago when I got into paper hobbies. It works really really well! I don't use it for the books that I sell, as I deckle edge those, but I use it for all kinds of other projects. Just make sure you line things up properly and you'll be good to go :)

u/coopdude · 2 pointsr/ImmigrationCanada

As far as cutting down to size, the software should appropriately position and size the photo (head to chin distance, etc.) with your assistance. It'll be a tool like this on the kiosk. The issue is that it will print on a 4x6 and then you have to cut the frame of the photo out to the 50 mm wide X 70 mm high.

If they can print the photo you could always cut them out yourself using a tool like this to get a consistent straight edge.

Of course, if you use the online tool, you can print 10 copies with four photos each for $6 (10 prints at 60 cents per 4 x 6"). The way the tool works is that it prints the four photos all right next to each other with a lip at the bottom. Only three cuts would be required (between top and bottom photos, between left and right photos, white lip at the bottom).

Why print ten copies? To save you time/gas going back to CVS if you make a mistake cutting some of them.

Once cut, you'd just need to label the back with the passport info and Citizenship photo requirements.

However, the requirements technically state that the photos must be taken by a commercial photographer and not just printed. So I would try to get the photo taken by the CVS worker and then printed at the kiosk. It's their responsibility to cut it correctly and guarantee the photos (that's why 2 photos cost $15, they refund or re-take the photos if they're rejected), and the software that CVS licenses provides an option to size/validate the photos according to the requirements.

And then self-size/print on 4x6 at CVS/label yourself as a last resort.

u/Absolutionis · 2 pointsr/minipainting

Yes it does dull over time. It is rather significant. However, even with a slightly dulled blade, it cuts the flash off just fine. The parts you want to remove are almost always weaker/thinner than the actual detail on the miniature, so you can casually remove the excess with ease.

Plus, much of the 'cutting' power of the knife doesn't rely on it being super-sharp, it requires a simple blade and pressure. I find I cut myself much less often when using slaightly dulled blades.

Sharpening isn't necessary. Replacement blades are really cheap, and you don't have to get X-Acto brand blades.

u/LemonUdon · 2 pointsr/graphic_design

Are you looking for a guillotine style cutter? I currently use this one. A friend and I bought it several years ago when we did a lot of bookbinding, to help cut stacks of paper. So far, haven’t had any issues with it. I will say that it’s pretty heavy, so not great if you need something that can be easily transported around.

Should be able to cut thru 400 sheets according to the manufacturer. Highest we ever needed to go was ~250.

u/NimaSan · 2 pointsr/mildlyinteresting

It was this model I got to trim the edges of the books I make. Tabletop and hand levered, great for small at home projects.

u/sk8brdr540 · 2 pointsr/bootlegmtg

There are a few things to consider. First, the guillotine seems great but it isn't very accurate and requires more work than you think (the repetition). Fiskars 12 Inch Recycled SureCut Trimmer (01-005454) This option is cheaper and more accurate. The blade is also easily replaceable. Don't do more than 1 sheet at a time. Can it be done? (Yes) But will it always off by a little? (Yes)

I have made extensive use of card stock terrain and have learned. There is also the high end option of purchasing a cutting machine but that is $100+ to get started.

u/facewhatface · 2 pointsr/boardgames

I trimmed about an inch off the top of some Dragon Shield sleeves for Burgle Bros, and I definitely recommend one of these to help with precision.

u/SolitarySysadmin · 2 pointsr/bookbinding

I'm in the UK but I've got one similar to
I've used it to cut 3mm millboard with some success (it cuts cross grain beautifully but along the grain needs some packing underneath and careful clamping)

I had to adjust the clamp on mine after arrival as it was causing the stack of paper to shift when cutting and end up being undercut, it's a 5 min fix though.

u/horriblemonkey · 2 pointsr/howto

Ever try one of these?
Much straighter cuts and reasonably priced.

u/delithug · 2 pointsr/AmazonTopRated

Or you could get this and a newspaper.

u/timmit99 · 2 pointsr/papercraft

Look into getting a cheep paper trimmer/guillotine from amazon or staples. Allows for cutting many sheets at once and with easy adjustment for cutting all sizes. Something like this

u/MycTyson · 2 pointsr/MushroomGrowers

I do believe we all follow similar ebbs and flows when entering into this hobby or profession. As such I hope to save people time by adding more education materials to my site to help save the time required to get started equipped with the best and most relevant experiences backing them.

That said, $25 and enjoy:

u/Uncle_Skeeter · 2 pointsr/engineering

Maybe instead find one of those little tables that are meant to cut long straight lines into paper?

Something like this:

u/OdysseusX · 2 pointsr/boardgames

I'm not willing to spend three times the game price for an add-on like this. But if I was this is what I'd get.

u/diabolicbutterfly · 2 pointsr/WaterdeepDragonHeist

Awesome, I invested in a paper cutter (like this) and print on 90lbs super white cardstock. The cutter makes everything 10x easier :)

The screen is SUPER easy to make and 100% worth it. I have yet to find a retail screen I liked and the custom screens I found were way too expensive :)

u/WhistlesG0WooWoo · 2 pointsr/gamecollecting

I print my inserts using red river glossy photo paper (legal size for the universal game case boxes) and use a fiskars paper trimmer for cutting- this is much easier and quicker and is like $12 from amazon :

You can find cover art in printable sizes at

u/thedeanorama · 2 pointsr/Amiibomb

To further save you from future heartache, I strongly suggest something like this. There are cheaper varieties, but this happens to be the one I have kicking around thanks to a crafty wife.

u/bobpony · 1 pointr/boardgames

I print them on 90lb cardstock. You can get a ream of the stuff on Amazon, it's pretty cheap:

Then I cut them out using one of these:

Not hard to do at all, just takes a little bit of time.

u/MadMageMC · 1 pointr/videos

This would at least speed it up a bit. Also: I would love to see this attempted on some of the stuff over at /r/HQG.

u/Nemothe1st · 1 pointr/graphic_design

Didn't have time to go through that whole video. They have personal size rolling trimmers.

I used have one that would score and cut. I'm sure that one does too.

u/dildo_cd0 · 1 pointr/notebooks

I'll try and get some other pics up.

They're 20 sheets, so 40 total pages.

I use a paper cutter like this:

I also use a long-reach stapler, and the corner chomper I referenced in the comments.

Yours look good! You just need to make the corners and edges a bit neater and you're there.

u/LALocal305 · 1 pointr/crafts

Thanks for the feedback!

Do you have any opinions on which guillotine paper cutter would be good? I see this one. Is Fiskars a good brand? She currently has one of the little sliding paper cutters but mentioned she didn't like it so maybe a guillotine type cutter would be better for her. I actually wouldn't mind getting into scrapbooking so maybe I should go with a guillotine so it'll be a gift for both of us :)

u/galaxiekat · 1 pointr/teaching

I teach 7th grade math this year, spent most of my career in 8th grade and high school. Things I use on a consistent basis that are not directly tied to my curriculum:

  • laminator. i have the amazon basics one, and love it. same for their pouches.
  • paper cutter i love this one
  • buckets for holding table supplies (for scissors, glue sticks, colored pencils, etc)
  • totally yes to the magnet stickers.
  • foam mounting tape--my walls are concrete, and nothing sticks to them.
  • mini fridge
  • doceri desktop (it turns an iPad into a mobile writing surface)
  • i have always coveted my secretary's automatic 3-hole punch
  • a comfortable chair
  • small trays [like these ones] ( I use them for students to transport things from place to place, for manipulatives that are not always out, like unifix cubes or dice or playing cards
  • a box of plastic forks. it sounds stupid there are times i have skipped lunch because i didin't have time to find a utensil.
  • cleaning supplies. paper towels. lots and lots of paper towels. a broom and a duster. i dust/sweep while i'm walking around my room monitoring progress.

    there's more. everyone is different, and there are great suggestions out there. take inventory of what you already have and what your school is supplying you.
u/alraban · 1 pointr/minimalism

I've had mine for a few years (didn't buy it for my current project), but I think it was this one or something like this one:

Mine is by no means a high quality cutter (it's a little off true), but with a little caution it works fast and easy. Just make sure you get one that's fairly large (the little ones intended for cutting four or five sheets at a time will not work. Any A4 or larger guillotine cutter should work with a little fiddling.

Based on the middling reviews on mine, you might be better off with this one:

u/riepmich · 1 pointr/graphic_design

Get yourself an A3 cutting Maschine. Irreplaceable.

u/boardgameben · 1 pointr/tabletopgamedesign

I use this paper cutter. I can generally get about 5 index cards at a time, so that's reducing your number of cuts by 80%. Plus, it has a guide so you get the same measure each time.

u/melvinrdrgz · 1 pointr/FixedGearBicycle

I used Oracal vinyl and a paper cutter for the angles/straight-edge cuts.

I watched this video and it really helped me out + gave me direction with applying the vinyl, even though it was my first time messing with it on a bike.

Before cutting the pieces out of the vinyl roll, I used paper to help create a template. I didn't take many photos of the process, but I did create a "highlight" on my Instagram account (same username), showing a few pics/vids that I took during the process.

u/cerushin · 1 pointr/Jigsawpuzzles

I use these:
Elmer's self-adhesive foam board

I have a channel rail and cutter to make it fit.

u/Pai467 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Does anyone know if #11 blades will fit in the Tamiya Design Knife (74020)?

I lost my replacement blades for the Tamiya, so was wondering if these will work

u/Xonim · 1 pointr/boardgames

This is the one I have.

Works well for trimming sleeves or cutting printed dividers for games like Marvel Legendary.

u/J517 · 1 pointr/SCREENPRINTING

I have a little experience with Stahls. I'm happy with them. I have more experience with Avery. I'm not happy with them.

For light duty cutting I use this.

But I'll tell you that it's really not capable of cutting more than 3-5 sheets of paper at a time if that. I cut single transparencies and such with it all the time.

u/TheMasses1 · 1 pointr/sousvide

After doing some looking I found this (it also comes in a 15 inch model if you need something larger)

u/TheKmartfetus · 1 pointr/legendarymarvel

We use a guillotine cutter for cutting dividers:
Swingline Paper Trimmer, Guillotine Paper Cutter, 12 inches Cut Length, 10 Sheet Capacity, ClassicCut Lite (9312)

It's definitely not a necessary purchase, but it makes cutting them super easy. It can also be used for other craft projects.

u/Oversteer929 · 1 pointr/gamecollecting

I started with scissors and it was a huge PITA. If you’re looking for the best option I would pick up one of these.

Swingline Paper Trimmer/Cutter,...

u/40mphCouchPotato · 1 pointr/Teachers

Things I use teacher money for:
Post-It Easel Pads

Flip Chart Paper Also comes in 1-inch grid

Flip chart easels to use with the pads so you can use them anywhere in the room

Thin markers and thick ones

Construction paper

Colored printer paper (i.e. astrobrights)

write and wipe pockets

Organization - file folders, hanging folders, and mobile drawer units

Scissors, pens, rulers

A scanner
Flash drives

Classroom laminator and associated supplies

Paper trimmer

Misc project supplies or manipulatives

A large world map and a map of the US

I'm sure there's more but I'm pretty sure I already spent all of your money :)

u/A_R3ddit_User · 1 pointr/bookbinding

This is the one I brought - my bad, I said eBay before but it was actually Amazon. I don't know why but there seem to be dozens of identical looking guillotines with different brand names at both A4 and A3 size. The US ones seem to be sold by HFS I may be wrong but my guess is they all come from the same factory in China and are simply rebranded.

I have to say I am very happy with mine. It is very solidly built (weighs about 60 pounds) but it takes up a lot of space - with hindsight, the smaller A4 model would have sufficed. However, it does the job really well. I don't want to belittle other peoples experiences, but I think that most of the problems that get highlighted in the reviews are caused by them not using it properly. The key is that the clamping bar that holds the book block in place for cutting needs to be really, really tight to stop movement which makes it look like it is cutting at an angle. After I'd worked that out I haven't had any problems. The blade is removable with care and you can sharpen it yourself.

However, unless you have lots of space in your workshop and you make lots of thick books that need trimming then if your local shop will continue to trim a book for $2.50, I'd stick with them.

u/OutrageousButton · 1 pointr/Entrepreneur

Does it have to be electronic? Because that seems like overkill. I'd just pickup something like and be done. Or just order paper that's already cut in half.

u/i_upboat · 1 pointr/papercraft

Sorry, the spam filter caught your link. Could you trim it down to just and post again?

u/bleuaegis · 1 pointr/papercraft

These would be super easy to make especially if you have the right machine - (Push down to create the hole punch and push back to open up the binding and slide on the paper.)

Based on your dimensions it looks like the previous person may have just been printing out 2 per page then cutting them in half. (8.5/11 page). Hole punching then sliding them on the binders.


Now for the covers, they just look like clear binding covers:


And then if you want to be exact I recommend a steady hand or just a standard paper cutter.


You may have to recreate the file itself, but overall easy to do!


Hopefully that helps!


Edit: And binding combs, which could also just be cut in half with scissors

2nd Edit: The paper, I would personally use a cardstock for the covers, but that would generally be personal preference. The inside you could just use regular paper



u/FatePlaysChess · 1 pointr/notebooks

Thank you so much for your thorough reply! This was immensely helpful; I never knew that there was so much to learn about paper! 110lb Index it is!

I'll be sure to get a rotary trimmer as well.

Is there much of a difference other than sheet capacity between the rotary cutter you recommended and a cheaper one? (e.g.

Also, sorry for all the paper questions, but do you think 80lb cover paper would be better? Or is that coated and therefore unsuitable?

Thank you for your time!

u/Pink_Fred · 1 pointr/Ebay

I currently use a label printer, as someone else suggested here, but i used to print them the old fashioned way like I see in the pic here.

What I did back then- I printed it normal size, but I used a paper trimmer to cut off all of the excess- the paypal stuff up top, the blank on the bottom, and anything outside of the black lines.

u/mcarterphoto · 1 pointr/analog

> If I want to print smaller than 8x10 I need to cut the paper to fit in the easel frame. I'm assuming I have to cut it in the dark? Or should I expose just half of an uncut 8x10 sheet?

You can just use scissors, but a guillotine style paper cutter is great, or check amazon for the cheaper sliding kind. You don't need to cut B&W paper in full dark, safelights are fine.

I cut fiber paper all the time; I cut 8x10 in quarters or halves to start dialing in prints.

>Also do I need graded filters to put in the enlarger?

That enlarger probably needs under-the-lens contrast filters, unless it has a filter slot above the lens board somewhere. Filters are only for use with multigrade (also called VC) papers - which most papers are these days. Without a filter, the paper will be about a 2.5 contrast; filters give you lots more control. You can usually find under-the-lens sets used on ebay, but it's critical that they're clean and unscratched, no stains, etc. You can do split-filter printing, where all you need is the 00 and 5 filters (though if split filter prints seem flat, replacing the 00 with an 0, 1, etc. can help).

u/ComradeH · 1 pointr/weddingplanning

We didn't print our invites, but we did print our STD's, programmes, menus and hen do invites.

This is the card we used, House of Card, 250gsm, pack of 100 for £5.99. In theory, if you're having A5 invites, this will give you 200... or 100 A5 invites and 100 A6 RSVPS and 100 A6 Info cards.

The card is a really lovely weight - a tiny bit floppy if using as full A4, but at A5 it feels great. Not flimsy at all. And worked a treat with our basic old £30 from Tesco inkjet printer. Has a really nice finish too.

Really, it's not that much of a faff. Buy extra card so you can practice - and invest in a good paper trimmer and you'll be golden. I originally bought a £10 one from Argos - it was rubbish and made my lines wonky. This works great!

If using thicker card (which you'll want to do for the weight), I recommend only feeding say 10-20 sheets into the printer at a time.

u/famousGOAT · 1 pointr/Gunpla
these are what i use (blue) i ordered them from S&T office products, havnt seen them anywhere else really i ordered a 100 pack probably a year ago and still have 60 or so id say they last 5x longer then the normal colored ones

the black blades i havnt seen in xacto form, only in the flat razors ...opp did a search CARBON STEEL :OOOOO

u/Pidge17 · 1 pointr/scrapbooking

Ideally, something like this is fantastic. It has a rotary blade which cuts more like scissors than slicing the paper. It's smoother and straighter, and you can buy other blades to use with the same system that can cut different edges, like a wave.

A cheaper version is something like this. I own this tool, but plan to upgrade to a rotary style soon. This tool may not always cut exactly straight, but I personally think it is better than the chopping style.

Also, with sliding/rotary type tools, you're less likely to lose any bits of your fingers than you would be with a chopping style cutter.

u/MissyTheMouse · 1 pointr/RAoC_meta

He is. And I try to tell him as often as I can. He definitely needs to hear it more though ;-)

it's a hinged paper cutter. I have a hinged one and a slidey one

u/Thergood · 1 pointr/mattcolville

I use a combination of techniques. 3D printed dungeon tiles, dry erase flip mat and tiles. If there is a nice pre-existing gridded map I want to use then I will print it at home.

I use a relatively cheap Ink Jet printer and I added a "continuous ink supply" system (CISS) purchased off eBay. It has paid for itself many times over.

I print the maps full size on many letter sized sheets. Trim the edges as necessary using a ruler and utility knife or something like This.

Next I will use small pieces of Post-It tape to hold the pieces together from the front side.

Finally, I flip the whole thing over and use packing tape along the seams on the back of the map. Then the Post-it tape can be easily removed without tearing up the map or messing with the images at all. You can follow-up by running a glue pen inside the overlap from the top of the map if you wish.

It sounds like a lot of work, but I can generally do a map that spans 8 pages in about 30 min from PC to finished paper map. It's much cheaper then printing at a print shop. After 2 or 3 maps the CISS and supplies pay for themselves. I try to reserve this for larger areas or maps that might be reusable.

Many map makers on Patreon also make modular systems, like forests, cities, etc. I print these out and glue them to 8" x 8" pieces of chipboard or cereal box. They can go together any way you want.

u/felinelawspecialist · 1 pointr/scrapbooking

I would invest in the paper cutter. They really are not very expensive--i have what I imagine is probably the smallest size and it works for my everyday crafting needs.

You can also try folding, licking the edge, and tearing paper. I do that and actually really like the soft edge you get. Just practice a bit and as long as you fold straight, you'll get straight pieces from it.

P.S. Here's a 12 inch cutter from Amazon, I have the same size but different brand. This one is under $11:

u/bl1y · 1 pointr/tabletopgamedesign

If you can shrink down to business card size, you can find business card sheets to print on.

If you need to go poker card size, and if you don't mind a bit of tedium, get a pack of card stock -- I think I'm using 85lb, and it works pretty well. Print on that, and then cut them. I use this type of cutting board. It's a lot easier to line up (there's a wire guide to show exactly where the cut will be) than a traditional swing blade cutting board. Get a 40% off coupon, go to Michaels, and you'll have your supplies for about $15-20. Add some card sleeves if you want.

It's time consuming and boring, but it's probably the cheapest option. And the DIY approach means you can more easily fix things if you realize you need new cards.