Found it!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LHR4GR8/ref=mp_s_a_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1518923255&sr=8-14&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=many+ice+cube+trays

It's actually super easy. Bought everything off amazon.

• ice line kit, attach to your water line under sink
  
  
• Solenoid Valve 1/4", splice 12v plug and into a timer or wifi timer.
  
  
• Attach water line inlet to tank
  
  
• Drill hole in tank or use overflow box for water outlet. I made my own
  
  
• Optional, get water filter if your water is chlorinated, check valve for safety, 1 gph drip emitter for better flow control.
  
  I'll make a full guide later

You can still install the normal one to a 14-50, you just need a suitable cable.

I used this: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TCZUCZC/

The wheel that serves as the pulley to drive the tumbling in my dryer is plastic.

https://www.amazon.com/DC93-00634A-Dryer-Pulley-Assembly-Samsung/dp/B07DQFHTVS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1537369056&sr=8-3&keywords=samsung+dryer+pulley+wheel

There it is in all it's glory. Fails once every 6 months or so and I get to replace it. Luckily they're only $16, but it's still a pain in my ass. The old wheel comes out and it has maybe 50% of its original plastic still intact. 100% built to fail.

What do you want to know?

I will give you 3 pointers if you buy this particular unit, though. I only bought this because it's the cheapest 4 stage you can get, and I know I don't need all the bells and whistles (in-line TDS, etc -except one that I will mention in part 2 below) that come with the ones that cost way more.

1. If you want to make serious quantities of water, and you don't have the patience of a saint, get THIS MEMBRANE and just keep the included 50gpd membrane as a spare. The dow filmtec membranes are the best you can get. They're the only ones that really produce anywhere close to their stated GPD rating. The 75GPD membrane is great too. Honestly it's just a more convenient, and longer lasting membrane either way. I've gone through a shitload of RO membranes. Whenever I need a replacement, the filmtec 75 is what I buy.
   
   
2. If you're installing it on a bathroom sink that has easily accessible male threading (after you remove the aerator), then get one of THESE. It's much easier to just divert the faucet water to your 1/4" tubing than having to detach and reattach the included plastic faucet adapter every time you want to make water. If you want to cut the faucet out of the picture altogether (my preferred method) then install a SADDLE VALVE straight to your 1/2" copper pipe (cold water pipe ONLY - never connect an RO/DI to hot water) and a SHUTOFF VALVE in-line between the pipe and your RO/DI's supply port. That's what I did today. Tapped into the copper pipe behind my bathroom sink; drilled a hole in the wall just above the sink and ran the tubing into the bathroom; installed shutoff valve there; drilled holes in undersink cabinet to accommodate supply, waste, and clean tubes; mounted the filter unit inside the undersink cabinet. Now I have a convenient on/off switch just above my bathroom sink. The tubing for waste and clean are coiled up between the cabinet and my tub. When I want to make water I just snake the waste line down my bathtub drain, pop my water sprayer in the tub and fill her up. No worries of spills/overflow. No hassle of connecting/disconnecting plastic fittings that are prone to thread strip.
   
   
3. Doesn't hurt to install a BACKFLUSH. This is the one 'bell and whistle' that I think is actually really useful. Especially if you have really hard water, It's good to flush heavy solids out of your membrane occasionally.

As far as I know, dryers still need to be vented.

I know there is a thing you can buy for indoor use, but it is generally not recommended.
http://www.amazon.com/Dundas-Jafine-TDIDVKZW-ProFlex-Indoor/dp/B000DZFTC6

Don't use this if you have a gas dryer.

I haven't tried any of the "fixes" I've found, but a quick Google search brings up a lot of resources.

I have no clue if any of these work.

But there's this: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-DA82-01415A-Assembly-Water-Leakage/dp/B010RHJ1ZA/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=%22DA82-01415A%22&qid=1558875754&s=gateway&sr=8-3#customerReviews

And this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rwSSMF6Sj70

And this http://www.appliancerepairlesson.com/2013/12/13/samsung-refrigerator-leaking-into-crisper-drawer/

My GE fridge does this https://www.amazon.com/IceSurrender-Frozen-Water-Line-Tool/dp/B01DJFFT62 I bought this to unfreeze the line. Fill the syringe with warm water then shove the line up the water dispenser intill you hit the blockage then slowly press on the plunger to release the warm water. Keep pushing the line up as it thaws in till you can push through.

You are going to have a really bad time with that iron. It’s just too cold and too big to do proper joints at this scale.

I know it sucks to hear someone tell you to spend more, but either get this guy for a bench unit:

hakko FX-888D

Or this guy as a LiPo powered portable/do it all:

TS100

Soldering is usually the make or break part of building FPV copters. If you enjoy it and can do it successfully, you will enjoy building FPV and do it successfully. If it’s a pain in the ass, and a constant struggle to get you joints down easily... then building FPV will be a pain in the ass also.

It’s a super valuable skill to have, but not a skill you can build with shitty tools. A shitty iron will make you a shitty solderer. A damn decent iron will at least give you the chance to become a damn decent solderer.

I’ve owned/used over 30 irons at home and work for the least several decades and those are the only two I’d recomend for FPV. Get the Hakko if you are interested in having a solid workbench where you can craft like a pro. Get the TS100 if you’re only going to solder with/for FPV and would attempt a repair in the field.

I own both, on for the bench and one for the bag.

I have another iron that costs 4x what that hakko does and I almost never touch it anymore. That hakko is unbeatable for the money by a huge margin.

The same one is on Amazon for $5.85 prime eligible.

I have the same Danby kegergator. You'll want to put a 33k ohm resistor in parallel with the temp sensor if you want to get your beer colder. Also consider placing a fan inside the cabinet to circulate cold air up the tap tower.

Your starting relay will go out in a few years, order one of these before it happens : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N3WFW5K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Once it's fixed, add a dishwasher pan below the dishwasher. Also add one of these

OP, this is a common and easy repair.

You need part # W10712394

Here's how to do it:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=otUn8eoceBw

Buy it:
https://www.amazon.com/Kenmore-0W10712394-Whirlpool-W10712394-Adjuster/dp/B00SPYDSFC

You are not allowed to have bird cages on dryer vents. It is a code thing. I highly recommend looking into a louvered cover for your dryer vent like this one. A properly functioning louver/damper/vent cap will keep birds out for the most part. However I will highly recommended you have your dryer vent cleaned annually if not biannually to keep an eye on that issue. You will be running into a gang full of more issues with a bird cover on it over time. PM me if you have any questions, I do this for a living.

https://www.amazon.com/AC-WORKS-AD1430L630-Adapter-Connector/dp/B077V2JSVV

and or one of these might help too. I use um for drain pans under pots

https://www.amazon.com/Eastman-70486-Dishwasher-24-5-20-5-Inch/dp/B00WQRKDNY/

https://www.amazon.com/MagVent-MV-90-Magnetic-Dryer-Coupling/dp/B013TI7A4S

This thing and a cooler with an icepack.

I've been looking at this guy for a little while, egg holder every time I go camping I really, really, really want to make some damn eggs for breakfast.

All the bacon and eggs you have.

You can get them pretty much anywhere.

Basically, you want this: https://smile.amazon.com/Premium-Stainless-Washing-Machine-Connection/dp/B077XXYWPQ/

Instead of this: https://smile.amazon.com/Kelaro-Rubber-Washing-Machine-Hoses/dp/B077XWBJGM/

The NR-210A has no flow requirement according to Navien. The NR-210 model has a 0.5 gpm min flow rate. Which is the same as my Takagi.

Here's the pump I use for flushing my tankless once a year.
Some simple washing machine hoses will allow you to hook up to the clean out valves. Just dunk the pump in a 5 gallon bucket of white vinegar and run it through for about an hour with the tankless in off mode.

You also need to be aware of the chlorine/chloramine in municipal water. Get a prefilter like this one for $9ish a piece.

No but rubber isolation pads or feet would probably work. amazon

This maxxfan is under $185.
https://www.amazon.com/Maxxair-0005301K-MAXXFAN-5301K-WHITE/dp/B016MWZH0M/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1511334692&sr=8-6&keywords=maxxfan

I'd question how well a simple little $30 fan will work. The Maxxfan is a known quantity. If you decide to go with what /u/biased_user_agent suggested I would actually go out the side instead of the roof. I think that may be easier to find an appropriate rain cover to prevent water ingress.

I had to get one of these last year.

Previous homeowners decided they hated the roof top vent that required a 6 inch straight piece to connect to the existing vent and instead they wanted one that was 90 degrees to that (new hole in the wall included). Well that worked for a smaller dryer because you could pull the dryer out and still have space in the laundry room. Anything bigger and you were crimping the vent hose and losing a LOT of drying ability while water pooled in the hose.

The one on amazon had a low profile 90^o exention on it that allowed me to easily reroute the line in about 20 minutes and significantly increased the drying ability.

I love DIYing but this is one of those things where I'd rather build a new cabinet or workbench than futz around with a dryer vent in my cramped ass laundry room for half a day.

Or you can add a vent trap kit to a regular dryer. It's basically a bucket of water that the air is ducted into. Obviously it requires some maintenance, but it's an option. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000DZFTC6

The FX-888D is also available on Amazon Canada for 140: https://www.amazon.ca/FX888D-29BY-Digital-Soldering-Station-FX-888D/dp/B00NF2Q8N8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501918056&sr=8-1&keywords=hakko+fx888

I have the analog version (FX-888), and it's solid. Been using it for years, easy to swap tips (but very good quality, still running on the original), slim but powerful element (65W), ready from cold start in about 30 seconds.

I also have an old Weller WTCP unit, but the Hakko beats it by leaps.

The "idler pulley" for my Samsung dryer has worn out about once per year since I've had it, I recently found out that you can buy an aftermarket upgraded version with steel ball bearings that's supposed to be much more durable, it's around $15 compared to $10 for the original part with a plastic sleeve bearing. I swapped this in the last time the pulley wore out and so far it's working well.

Tesla briefly offered a HPWC with a 50A cord but not anymore apparently. What you can do is get a 14-50 outlet installed and if you want a HPWC just have your electrician wire it up with this https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TCZUCZC/

FYI the white wire would not be used in that case and you would need to set the current selector switch on the HPWC to the 50A breaker setting

thank you for the replies! when i looked at other photos (googled "compressor relay"), the relay is a "block" that directly plugs onto the 3 pins of the compressor. (https://picclick.com/Donper-S43BZ-SK30CZ-Replacement-Refrigeration-Compressor-R-134A-123815866065.html) Mine does not have it.

What is connected to the pins is the circular part (i think it is an overload protector) then, it connects to the black piece at the bottom of the photo which is the starter relay (part QP2-4R7).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N3WFW5K/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

i think this is the part i need to replace?

You cannot screen a dryer exhaust.

>M1502.2 Duct termination
Exhaust ducts shall terminate on the outside of the building or shall be in accordance with the dryer manufacturer’s installation instructions. Exhaust ducts shall terminate not less than 3 feet in any direction from openings into buildings. Exhaust duct terminations shall be equipped with a backdraft damper. Screens shall not be installed at the duct termination.

Replace the termination with a louvered cover. They are also available at Home Depot if you don't wanna order online.

Yup, capacitor, $20 https://www.amazon.com/GE-WH12X10462-Washing-Machine-Capacitor/dp/B00MNMZ6A2

Not much you can do to prevent it, and given the age it may have been from a batch of bad electrolytes. motherboards had a huge issue from the capacitor plague caused by cheap and counterfeit electrolyte.

https://www.amazon.com/IceSurrender-Frozen-Water-Line-Tool/dp/B01DJFFT62

Pick up this kit, its important to get the EVAP cover off in one piece so you may want to let the unit completely defrost to remove it. Usually the ice is frozen to the styrofoam on the back of the EVAP cover.

Also once you remove the tar like substance near the defrost temp sensor, per the samsung bulletin the sensor should be on the left side of the copper tube its clipped onto, and the new longer probe that comes in the leakage kit you are supposed to cut the old one off the defrost element before putting the new one on.

https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Assembly-Water-Leakage-DA82-01415A/dp/B010RHJ1ZA

AmazonBasics Inline Water Filter

If the 5100 is too pricey, I would still recommend the 5301 before you go down to the 4000k or fantastic fan. Fantastic fans are prone to breaking and having this rain guard is a life saver. You don’t want water dripping through in the middle of the night whilst your asleep.

Plus, if there’s anything to not be stingy about, it’s your ventilation.

On Amazon i saw the 5100 was $210 and the 4000k was $130. You just gotta drop the extra $80 and know that it’ll be worth it completely.

Here’s that other one
MAXXFAN DLX 5301K WHITE https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016MWZH0M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ikr1AbPA3KDDC

Worked fine for about a year, then the chopper got messed up. That was covered under warranty. The upper rack adjuster/rollers started to fail within a year and WERE NOT covered by warranty. We've had to replace them annually since. The part that are to be avoided are: https://www.amazon.com/Kitchenaid-Compatible-Dishwasher-Upper-Adjuster/dp/B013JKQ2YA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1512054918&sr=8-2&keywords=kitchenaid+dishwasher+roller

Instead you should replace with:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SPYDSFC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Isolate mechanically your refrigerator.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Silent-Feet-Anti-Vibration-Refrigerators-Freezers/dp/B00XNVIPMI

​

we used something like this on our washing machine - it worked great.

Whirlpool 61002140 Ice Maker Tray https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LHR4GR8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_7DrIAbX5CJY1T

Which conversion cables are you referring to?

Here's my planned setup. From the wall socket which is a NEMA 14-30R I plan on plugging the following PDU into it https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Outlets-Rack-Mount-PDU1230/dp/B0007YG85A

with the following adapter https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077V2JSVV/

Now the question is do i need to use any special PSU cables? Should I use the C19 ports on the PDU or are the standard C13 cables fine?

I plan on running 5 rigs, each rig is pulling about 750 from the wall when plugged into a standard 110 wall outlet.

A dishwasher supply line is 3/4" hose bibb to 3/8" compression. They are usually a few feet long. Make sure the Y splitter has deep enough threads to compress the neck of the hose bibb into the collar.

Reduce 3/8" comp to 1/4" comp, then run 1/4" flexible tubing to your fridge. A kit at the big box near me is about $15 for the 25' poly tubing kit with 1/4 and 3/8 adapters. A 1/4 coupling can be used to connect two lengths of tubing if you are forced to do so.

HB to comp
3/8 to 1/4
ice maker kit

The kit comes with a saddle valve, but you don't need it.

Different municipalities will have different standards.

I'd also add that an electric dryer doesn't vent any potentially harmful chemicals - just lint. There are solutions for this - like this - that solve the issue of interior venting.

I honestly would not sweat this.