Best passive components according to redditors

We found 562 Reddit comments discussing the best passive components. We ranked the 286 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Subcategories:

Antennas
Attenuators
Capacitors
Electronic chokes
Electronic coils
Electronic crystals
Electronic ferrites
Electronic inductors
Oscillators
Resistors
Resonators
Signal filters
Transducers
Transformers

Top Reddit comments about Passive Components:

u/Dthdlr · 34 pointsr/nova

Well the part itself is about $15.00 but you have to be sure it’s a direct compatible replacement (I think this one is but I’d have to see all of the numbers on yours better).

But what you really paid for was:

  1. Someone who knew how to diagnose the problem properly;

  2. Someone who had the part on hand RIGHT NOW

  3. Someone willing to come out and do this on a Saturday.

    It seems a bit high, but it’s been years since I had to have the capacitor replaced on my system. Thought it was high then too as it does seem a lot for the inexpensive part.

    But then if you paid for a hotel room while you waited for the part etc etc etc.
u/fatangaboo · 15 pointsr/electronics

Buy this and then Buy this other thing and you'll never need Radio Shack ever again.

u/buried_treasure · 14 pointsr/AskUK

Step down transformers are bulky, heavy, and unsightly. There are very few situations where it's worth bringing electrical equipment from the US to the UK, as almost anything you can buy in the US you can also get over here, and then you don't need to have your house littered with huge transformers.

Electronic equipment is different in that it all runs on low-voltage DC, so all you need is an appropriate adapter to convert the incoming AC. The PSU inside desktop computers and the standard "power brick" that's used to provide electricity to laptops and so on are usually made to a worldwide specification, meaning they'll cope with the UK's 240V AC just fine, all you'll need is a simple and cheap plug socket adapter.

u/Leggo0 · 9 pointsr/ElectricalEngineering

These are parts I use consistently in my labs
Capacitor kit


Resistor kit


Jumper wires


Bread board(s)


Larger breadboard. Recommended for larger projects but I haven’t used it too much. Best for large IC circuits


Multimeter. This has all the right features

Other things that can be useful:


•Wire strippers


•Pliers


•Electrical Tape


•Tackle Box or tool bag (to carry everything)


Flat jumper wires


As you get into classes you’ll need specific parts (transistors, logic gates etc) but this should get you started. I use the things I linked in every lab weekly.

Feel free to message me with any questions.

u/veni_vidi_vale · 7 pointsr/headphones

is it a good radio station? If so, enjoy :-)

cable may be acting as an antenna, try using a [ferrite core] (http://www.amazon.com/Ferrite-Core-Cord-Noise-Suppressor/dp/B0002MQGE0) to suppress EMI. Make sure you get the right size!

u/jmblock2 · 6 pointsr/santashelpers

Has he applied for any jobs yet? I was given one of those leather pads with paper inside and a holder for resumes (something like this) except it was from my undergrad university with their emblem. Definitely gives you some confidence for interviews and recruiting sessions. Also you can get him some nice resume paper to go with it. That lasted me for years.

I also enjoyed having one or two of these demotivational posters in my room. Depends on his humor and if he has barren walls like I did.

If you know more details about which raspberry pi he has, you could get some shield extensions. These are boards that expand its capabilities. There are also newer boards with better specs. Also with two boards you can of course make them talk to each other ;)

Depends on his area of interest and your budget, but you could get him some kind of [introductory FPGA kit] (http://store.digilentinc.com/fpga-programmable-logic/) or DE0-Nano.

Tools... so many tools he might be interested in. USB logic analyzers are so cheap these days and go well with hobby boards. Again not sure your budget, so you can go all sorts of ranges here (Open Workbench Logic Sniffer or scanaplus or Saleae Logic 8 or a china clone of Saleae Logic 8). Saleae or the knockoff I think are the better options for the software compatibility. He may be in need of a soldering iron or a multimeter.

Something else unique, you could get him a "gift card" (they don't really sell them) or an IOU to a PCB printing service. Ask him to design his own board and you'll pay $X of the service. You'll want to make sure he knows the price structure on the website because they charge per square inch and it depends on his design how many layers he may need. He makes the schematic and they will print some circuit boards for him. They won't mount the parts, just do the schematic and he would have to hand solder the components.

If he likes old videogames you could get him some old school USB controllers and tell him to install lakka on his rasberry pi, or just get him a new Raspberry Pi3 to dedicate it as an old-school console emulator. It is quite impressive how many consoles they have emulated.

And back to more tools... more micro screwdriver bits than you would actually need. You can get him a starter pack of resistors, capacitors, and other assorted electronics sparkfun. There are also so many buttons, switches, LED screen displays, etc. that he probably wouldn't want to buy on his own. Maybe you could get a container with an assortment of circuit components (resistors, capacitors, transistors, and other sensors). Careful! This can add up real quick. All types of sensors exist... ultrasonic rangefinder, stress, photocell, temperature, etc. etc. endless!.

u/gregorthebigmac · 6 pointsr/arduino

Joe Knows Electronics is your friend. 800-some piece resistor kits, each group individually bagged and tagged, comes in a nice compact cardboard box, and it's cheap as hell. I've been using their stuff for a while now, and it's good quality stuff.

u/Justintime233 · 6 pointsr/microgrowery

If it could be used everyone here would use one and save that money. I don't like spending $25 on a fan speed controller either but it needs to be done. The $20 one sucks by the way, it makes your fan hum, get the active air brand it runs quieter or if you really want the quietest get a variac. But that's more money and you're looking to spend less lol. I can help you spend more but not less.

u/throwawayCG48 · 6 pointsr/microgrowery

First grow.

This took 2-3 months. Seems like I ran into a number of first-timer pitfalls along the way. Good learning experience though.

Can't wait. So god damn tired of shady, undependable hook ups.


Edit 2:

Photos of my setup.

u/LeCrushinator · 6 pointsr/Minecraft
u/CBRjack · 5 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Power is way too high and you have a lot of errors. You can either ask your ISP to come and have a look at it, install an inline pad yourself or install a splitter in front of the modem.

10 dB coax attenuator

3 way splitter, you'd use one of the -7 dB outputs.

If lowering the power doesn't help, then you have no choice but to get your ISP involved. Try the pad first because it's the easiest thing, unless you already have a splitter laying around.

u/IMPEACH_TRUMP_NOW · 5 pointsr/microgrowery

I have a speed controller like that, it makes the fan louder actually. This one is worth it if loud fans annoy you https://www.amazon.com/PHC-Enterprise-Variac-Variable-Transformer/dp/B006NGI8VS

3 plants is absolute max for 2x4 and 3 gal pots are prob enough for that. my 3 plants have filled my 2x4 halfway through flower, 2 is a better number if you want good light coverage, 2 plants with 5 gal pots

u/6trees1pot · 5 pointsr/microgrowery

getya one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Variac-Variable-Transformer-300va-Output/dp/B006NGI8VS

those cheap ones will make the fan hum. this makes it super quiet

u/bucketbud · 5 pointsr/microgrowery

This is what I have. There is no motor hum at any speed. The only thing to hear is the air that's being moved.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006NGI8VS

u/AmishTechno · 5 pointsr/ageofsigmar

Full disclosure. I didn't pick it up, just saw the image and thought of it as a base. But you can buy them on Amazon:

Bismuth Crystal

u/shaunc · 5 pointsr/techsupport

If he's willing to throw $3.50 at the problem (and wait a couple of weeks for shipping from China), have him try a set of ferrite cores. You clasp one of these around the mic cord near the point where it plugs into the computer, and it can block out a lot of RF interference.

u/SubjectPresentation · 5 pointsr/Homebrewing

It's almost definitely just the 50c relay. Look up a youtube video on "fix fridge compressor relay hard start" and you'll be able to fix it for like $15. I fixed my keezer with this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A8O0E5Y/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and now that it has a proper relay I expect it'll last a decade. Freezers are incredibly simple devices.

u/Alaeron · 5 pointsr/starcitizen

After seeing a couple posts of people's custom button boxes on reddit I knew I had found my next project. I've been doing quite a bit of Arduino and small electronics lately, and this was the perfect fit. So off I went to Amazon, ordered a bunch of stuff I thought might be cool / useful and started piecing things together. Took a few weekends of working on it here and there, the most time consuming part just being tediously soldering and wiring the 38 inputs.

​

Was originally going to set it into some sort of project enclosure, but ended up getting impatient and just mounting it to two pieces of plywood with some feet. It added enough heft to it that I can lift the switch guard and rotate the somewhat stiff selector without issue. Eventually I'll get a better enclosure for it, probably grab one off of Hammond mfg or get someone with a larger 3D printer to make one. The Engine Start and black/red button (that I'm going to use for quantum jump) have leds in them that I don't currently have hooked up to the Arduino, but once we get some sort of API into Star Citizen hopefully I can tie them to engine state and jump spool/ready state.

​

The controls are:

Power on, flight ready, 3 misc buttons, zoom rotary encoder, 3 misc buttons, quantum spool, quantum jump

Hat switch + center for shield distribution and reset, engine, shield, and thruster power switches, power distribution profile selector, misc selector

Flare Fire button, flare select, 7 misc toggle switches, self destruct switch, eject switch.

​

I mapped everything to a button in the Arduino code (no rotary encoder as zoom in this screenshot) so that I can easily bind to functions in Star Citizen. Unfortunately without an API this means the switch positions can get out of sync with the actual ship status easily. If by the time of release / they make an API there still isn't a way to read / set state by API then I'll probably make a new version with only toggle buttons.

​

Code Libraries

PCF8574_library for interfacing with the IO expanders
- https://github.com/xreef/PCF8574_library

ArduinoJoystickLibrary for emulating a joystick on windows
- https://github.com/MHeironimus/ArduinoJoystickLibrary/

​

Useful Instructables

Joystick Library
- https://www.instructables.com/id/Create-a-Joystick-Using-the-Arduino-Joystick-Libra/

PCF8574
- https://www.instructables.com/id/PCF8574-GPIO-Extender-With-Arduino-and-NodeMCU/

​

Parts List

1 Terminal Expansion Board - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PGDWJ2V

3 PCF8574 IO Expansion Board - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B95LMLQ

1 Rotary Encoder - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DM2YMT4

1 4 Position Rotary Selector - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JN2967L

1 Red Ring Momentary Push Button - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017ILTX60

1 Engine Start Momentary Push Button - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MK2394L

5 Heavy Duty Toggle Switch - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078KBC5VH

1 12 Position Rotary Switch - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074WMC9C8

1 5-Channel Rocker - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K5PFPNC

1 Arduino Micro - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AFY2S56

7 Red/Black Momentary Push Buttons - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BD2D96W

2 Red Cover Toggle Switches - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BD2D96W

8 Small Toggle Switches - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013DZB6CO

u/drzorcon · 4 pointsr/cordcutters

I'd suggest one of these:


10db
or 20db

u/FlashYourNands · 4 pointsr/gaming

Or if the thing is delicate or expensive (let's not over-volt that old unregulated tube power supply), use a variac.

u/[deleted] · 4 pointsr/SpaceBuckets

> AFAIK most fans with speed regulators won't actually be much quieter on the lower setting as it just uses a variable resistor (a rheostat) to control the fan speed. Often they even have an extra buzzing noise. The only good way to alter a fan speed is to alter the AC voltage it receives. To do this you need a variac (variable AC), You can find them for 50 quid but you have to wire them up yourself.

I agree. My rig got much quieter with this variac https://www.amazon.com/PHC-Enterprise-Variac-Variable-Transformer/dp/B006NGI8VS

u/Umlautica · 4 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

> I think using a USB cord with a ferrite core for my phone will reduce that buzz.

It's what they are designed to do and they are cheap enough that it's worth a shot. You would add one to the end of the cable that plugs into the PC.

u/ralfwolf · 4 pointsr/raspberry_pi

You don't need to do any soldering if you get the right parts. Get these leads to connect to the header on the rpi board. Then get these connectors and you’ll need a 4.7k ohm resistor. I’d suggest buying a combo pack of resistors and save the other resistors for future projects.

Pull two of the F/F leads off from the rest and cut them in half; you’ll use 3 of the 4 resulting pieces. Connect one of the leads to the Vcc lead on the thermometer probe (usually red) and one end of a 4.7k ohm resistor. The connector/splice is a T so you’ll use all 3 connections. Then connect another of the half leads to the Data lead from the probe (could be yellow or white or almost any other color) and the other end of the resistor. You’ll have something that looks like an H with the two leads with the resistor across the middle. The third lead from the probe will be the ground lead which will probably be black. This lead will be straight through just joining the resistor probe lead to the lead with the gpio header female to connect to the rpi board. The end result should be 3 wires terminated with the female header connector and the resistor between Vcc/Power and Data lines. Now you are ready to connect to the rpi board. Make sure it’s powered down and locate pins 1, 7, and 9. Look here for a diagram. Pin 1 is the pin closest to the SD card. Pins 1,7, and 9 will be the first, fourth, and fifth pins respectively on the inside row counting from the “back” (side where the sd card is) of the board. Pin 1 (first inside pin) will go to the Power/Vcc lead, Pin 7 (fourth inside pin) goes to the Data lead, and Pin 9 (fifth inside pin) goes to the GND/ground pin.

That’s it for the physical connection. Now boot it up and see if it’s already working:

cat /sys/bus/w1/devices/28-*/w1_slave

If you see something like the following, it’s working:

XX XX XX XX XX XX XX : crc=51 YES
XX XX XX XX XX XX XX t=23500

The second line t=NNNNN is the temperature in Celsius out to three decimal places so 23500 is 23.500 C.

If you get a “No such file or directory” error then do the following and reboot:

sudo sed -i.bak '$adtoverlay=w1-gpio' /boot/config.txt

EDIT: found a mistake in the ground lead connection instructions

u/BlankSourceCode · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Here is a copy and paste from an older post I had on it:

I basically ordered one from Amazon (well a pack of 5 I guess since that's the smallest they come in). This one: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07DM2YMT4

Snipped off the 2 extra legs that are supposed to hold it to the board since they just got in the way. Then I soldered the two pins for the push button directly to the PCB using the regular switch holes. (Had to bend the other 3 pins up or if the way but after that they fit great). My PCB was the standard Lily58 from littlekeyboards.com (not the pro) so I only know they line up well on that board. (EDIT: actually with this build I'm now using the pro, the two push button pins don't line up nearly as well due to the board expecting hotswap sockets, but you can just solder a little wire between the pins and board, so it works ok for the pro too.)
The encoder itself already fit through the switch hole in the case so nothing needed there.

After that you need to attach the other 3 pins for the encoder to the PCB. The middle one I attached to ground by trailing a wire from the center pin the the ground pad for the underglow on the top side of the PCB. I lined it up so it ran directly between the switches and it covered by the case so you can't see it.

For the remaining 2 pins I soldered longer wires and fed them to the underside of the PCB through the hole for the case standoffs. Still plenty of room in the hole for the actual brass standoff. Then I ran them to the pro micro and soldered them to pins F4 and F5 (which I'm pretty sure went being used)

All that's left was to add a bit of glue to hold it to the board and add the config for encoder to my qmk using pins F4 and F5.

I'm happy with how it turned out.

Hope that helps.

u/GCEmD · 3 pointsr/diypedals

Hi! I built a Beavis Board about six weeks ago. Not terribly difficult to make at all. I purchased these on amazon from Joe knows...

Resistors
Capacitors
Transistors

The problem I have is that some of transistors aren't right for the layouts, the capacitors aren't film, and I couldn't find an assorted IC box.

If I had to do it all over again I would catalog all the parts needed for every project on the projects guide or see of there was a list of items the Beavis Board came with and take that to Tayda or Mammoth. It's a lot of work but will be better in the long run.

I'm definitely interested if anyone else has purchased assorted boxes and how that worked out.

u/huhthatscool · 3 pointsr/aeroponics

I actually didn't tally up the cost as that wasn't really of a concern to me, but I'll try my best to provide links to the things I bought for this. Feel free to add it up for me!

u/BrewerGlyph · 3 pointsr/diypedals

I've used assortment packs like this before:

Joe Knows Electronics 1/4W 86 Value 860 Piece Resistor Kit
by Joe Knows Electronics
Link: http://amzn.com/B003UC4FSS

Also search for Elenco

u/615wonky · 3 pointsr/microgrowery

Start small. It'll save you money, let you get your feet wet, and help you learn how to grow better, and then you can buy bigger.

My "starter package" is:

  • A 2' x 2' x 3' grow tent - $55.
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SWGYYWO

  • A grow light ($90). I prefer COB's as they're easier to fix than blurples.
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I4NY8KW

  • A power strip zip-tied to a pole in the tent. Makes wiring prettier and easier. ($24) I chose a nice metal one, but you can use a cheaper one.
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F8ZQYHA

  • Hangers to hold the light ($8)
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098R0600

  • A fan and filter ($70), and variac ($90) to filter smell and move air to keep things cool. This combo is overkill for this tent, but I ended up using it on later tents so it's a good long-term investment. You can cobble something cheaper together with some work, but this "just works" out of the box.
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Q2ER5C/
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006NGI8VS

  • 5 gallon Smart Pot ($7) for growing, FoxFarm Ocean Forest Soil ($16.50), Plant saucer ($7) for growing. You can save some money here by shopping around. In particular, Amazon's price for FFOF is about double what I pay at the (very expensive) local "indoor gardening" center.
    https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Pots-5-Gallon-Soft-Sided-Container/dp/B002JUOWB2
    https://www.amazon.com/FoxFarm-FX14053-12-Quart-Organic-Potting/dp/B001I49Q98
    https://www.lowes.com/pd/Garden-Treasures-15-31-in-Rust-Plastic-Plant-Saucer/50445000

  • Go Box Plant Nutrients. This should last you several grows.
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004PS4B08

  • Seed of your choice (let's say $10).

    So for about $420 (heh), you can get your foot in the door and start growing. This is a nice setup too, you can probably save $100 by shopping around, buying used, or doing-it-yourself. I've left off a few odds and ends like dryer duct, Fiskers for trimming, weed fabric pins for low-stress training, pitcher for watering, Mason jars for storage, but you can likely find those or suitable replacements around the house without spending money.

    I also have a Raspberry Pi 3 ($43) with Sense Hat ($37) and metal case ($15) in each of my grow tents to log temperature/humidity and other things. I'm interested in eventually using the GPIO functionality to water my plants too. Not critical, but definitely a nice thing to have, especially if you're the hacker type. If you go this route, you might look at raspiviv.com too.
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C6FFNY4
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014HDG74S
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0722L338Q

    I'm glad I bought a good intro setup because I still use it now that I've upgraded. I now have a 3' x 3' GG Shorty tent with HLG 300 LED for flower, a 2' x 2.5' GG Shorty tent with two 400W Roleadro COB's for veg, and my "intro package" is now my germination/cloning tent (and drying tent too since several people suggested that too). Being able to have three tents (germination -> veg -> flower) working simultaneously is increasing my output quite sharply. I'm doing this to help a relative with cancer, so you may not need to go quite as crazy as I did.

    You mentioned using 35+ gs (~1.25 oz) a month. You probably aren't going to be able to grow that much given the constraints of tent size and light wattage (plus being a first-time grower! You'll learn a lot!). So once you get used to it, you'll probably want to buy more stuff. Marijuana isn't addictive, but growing marijuana absolutely is.

    Once you've got your hardware, the variable cost is seed (~$10), soil (~$5), nutrients (~$20), and electricity (~$30). From that, I'm going to estimate you can grow ~1.5 ozs (you can do more as you learn more though). So you're looking at ~$40/oz after you've made the initial hardware investment.

    Hope this helps. Depression, cancer, and everything else can just go suck it.
u/OnlyGrowingTomatoes · 3 pointsr/microgrowery

Awesome controller. I've been thinking about getting this one. It looks very similar to yours. How was your experience with that vendor?

I have a speedster and it sucks donkey balls. As soon as you start turning it down, the fan starts a really annoying humming.

Does yours run smooth at lower speeds?

u/2moreweeks · 3 pointsr/microgrowery

Variac speed controller

https://www.amazon.com/PHC-Enterprise-Variac-Variable-Transformer/dp/B006NGI8VS

a duct silencer/muffler

https://www.amazon.com/VenTech-VT-FS-6-Muffler-Silencer/dp/B00HWILBSS/

insulated duct and google how to insulate/wrap a inline fan for cannabis

u/rich-creamery-butter · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

Well you say that, but you just obliterated a resistor by hooking it up to the mains...in any case, I won't lecture you.

A dimmer could work yes. The reason they work without blowing up or dissipating tons of power is AC magic, and we can leave it at that. You could also use a variable transformer such as a variac.

u/emptynestingent · 3 pointsr/microgrowery

When air is moving we dont think that there is an electric motor turning it but not getting the benefit of the air since we redirect it. A little noise to make sure there isnt a fire is a fine exchange. If it is too loud this way try moving it in the attic away from any walls.

This is the fan set up I use and once its mounted it stays quiet.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006Z1JLY4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006NGI8VS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


The transformer made all of the difference. I keep it set at about 75% of maximum.

u/duckmurderer · 3 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

Before you go out and spend a bunch of money, try putting a ferrite core on the USB cable. I'll update this post with a link to something that might work.

Edit: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007Q94DBK/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1375477435&sr=8-3&pi=SL75

Something like that. If your local radioshack has a parts bin then they should have some.

u/gr8bier · 3 pointsr/atlbeer

A real helluva engineer wouldn't even ask that question. I'm disappointed, but willing to offer some guidance to get you back on track.

In all likelihood, the compressor is fine, and the problem is a failed starter relay. I was able to revive a "dead" freezer I got off CL by replacing the PTC Starter Relay, like this - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WQFRT1A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1.

Probably the easiest thing to do is buy a Hard Start Kit like one of these - https://www.amazon.com/Supco-RCO410-Start-Kit/dp/B008YDSH6E/ref=pd_cp_60_1/142-1528411-3970020?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B008YDSH6E&pd_rd_r=9159887b-4c9d-4262-bc3d-29a057ef67c9&pd_rd_w=rgcC7&pd_rd_wg=9fJEC&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=M3750DQ3G24AXTZH74PH&psc=1&refRID=M3750DQ3G24AXTZH74PH or https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A8O0E5Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1. Figure out the right one for your freezer; that 1st link has a place to enter your model number. You can just install this and be done, or if that gets it running, you could pull this back out and then replace the failed part, knowing that you're on the right track.

If the freezer doesn't run with the hard start kit, then cut your losses and replace the freezer. Hey GT ain't much for a sports fan lately, but they at least turn out people qualified for appliance repair.

u/pompeiisneaks · 3 pointsr/diytubes

One thing I did wrong and I'd suggest you do, is make sure you get one that can handle higher amps. Some tube amps do pull upwards of 5 or 6 amps, and I got a 3 amp one and have burned a fuse or two with that being setup incorrectly, once I figured that out, I was careful to not over do it, but it was only one amp that ran at about 4A I think, not sure I recall the model etc, and it's only been one amp, but that's one important thing to consider. If you're going to use it a lot, it's worth saving up and getting a well built brand, but if not, then go for the cheaper models. I think I got this one: https://smile.amazon.com/Parts-Express-Variac-Variable-Transformer/dp/B00BXJYO6I/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1519332865&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=variac but it's the 3A version, here's one that's 5A and less expensive, but not sure how great it would be: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B076Y2XHRS/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B076Y2XHRS&pd_rd_wg=aRA3q&pd_rd_r=CS27F03X270JC48FRH4E&pd_rd_w=YJVX3

If I were to do it again, I'd likely go for one like this that's also an isolation transformer: https://smile.amazon.com/Variac-Variable-Transformer-Isolation-1000va/dp/B006NGC6HU/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1519332960&sr=1-1&keywords=variable+isolation+transformer

u/arnavkomaragiri · 3 pointsr/FTC

Outside rev through bore encoders and the signwise encoders ( https://www.amazon.com/Signswise-Incremental-Encoder-Dc5-24v-Voltage/dp/B00UTIFCVA ), there aren't really many good cheap dead wheel encoders. However, keep in mind you don't really need dead wheels. Ignoring the fact that FTC auto can be accomplished using 1d motor encoders and some basic gyro logic, dead wheels only really allow you to move at max speed and still localize. I'd recommend looking at https://github.com/acmerobotics/road-runner/blob/master/doc/pdf/Mobile_Robot_Kinematics_for_FTC.pdf to see how most drivetrain encoders can be used to solve for a position on the field. The only downside to this method is that you can't move at max speed for mecanum. All the other drivetrain styles are completely fine. I guess the question you need to ask yourself is whether you really need to move at max speed in autonomous, which is only really advantageous for autonomous cycles and automating teleop. If you don't need that degree of precision, run the motor encoders. Teams like 5029 have had great success running just pure motor encoder odometry, having one of the cleanest autos at the OH state championships. Unless you need that extra 2 in/s, you won't feel any difference.

u/LastSpark7 · 3 pointsr/FTC

We are running these, they're a little big, but they're cheap, with a 6mm D shaft, and works just fine

u/ravenobsidian · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

BTW. You can buy some prototyping board (like this) and some through-hole resistor (like this) to practice your soldering, as soldering diodes and switches are pretty much the same technique, and they are super cheap. ;)

u/vic06 · 3 pointsr/memphis

I get my parts at Jonestown Supply, but it's likely to be closed tomorrow. After paying $100 for a service technician to install a $10 part just because he had one in the truck I stocked up on spares.

My unit is not a Trane, but if this capacitor fits you can take it and drop ship me a replacement.

u/Mic_Check_One_Two · 3 pointsr/audioengineering

Before you give up completely, try a ferrite bead on power cables, and maybe even the XLR. It sounds silly, but they’re cheap and easy to use. They just snap on the outside of your cables, with no modification needed. So if it doesn’t work, it was only like 5 minutes of work, and like $10.

My bet is actually that you have poor shielding somewhere else in your system, and this is simply being manifested via the mic input having AM radio noise.

You can get a variety pack on Amazon for $10. I’m sure that you could find smaller packs for less if you looked around. That was simply the first result I saw.

u/mdamaged · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Buy some ferrite cores (check the right diameters), wrap them around the power cable(s).

u/KenEarlysHonda50 · 2 pointsr/ireland

You may need a step down transformer. Something like this

Don't buy cheap with this sort of thing.

u/Learnincurve · 2 pointsr/sewing

The singer 9960 is much better and has a metal frame, you need the updated one with the blue wavy lines, the old version without the lines was a dud so they fixed it and put the blue on. You can get them on the American ebay and they are cheaper even with import fees and shipping. What you want is a 300w step down transformer, I believe you are the same as the UK and 240w - in this case this is the type you need.

u/LBriar · 2 pointsr/diypedals

It depends on the component. Resistors and caps usually either work or not, and even really cheap sets tend to be within rated tolerances. I just buy the cheapest sets of those that have the values I want.

Transistors and ICs will depend on what you're getting. Common and still produced values are cheap and easy to get. Again, just buy whatever's cheap and gets you what you need. Watch out for fakes or seconds when buying out-of-production parts like 308s or 3007s. Best to get those from reputable places (smallbear, Mammoth, etc), because they're expensive and it's easy to get burned. I'd really look at the values you're getting when ordering ICs and possibly transistors in bulk. Those parts are usually really specific to a build and buying a lot of values might leave you with a bunch of unused parts.

The Joe Knows sets are good, if a little expensive. They tend to be well sorted, which is nice, but not something I'm willing to pay more for. Like this set of resistors is going to be just as good and is significantly cheaper than the equivalent Joe Knows set. There's certainly nothing wrong with the Joe Knows stuff though - if it has the values you need at the right price, go for it.

You can also score some great bulk deals on ebay and alibaba, but you'll be stuck waiting for overseas shipping a lot of the time. I'd go Amazon for an initial order and then shop around when you refill.

u/budc85 · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

Get a variac or step-transformer based fan speed controller, use with a voltage controllable fan like a ruck.

No extra sound, no increased wear.

Something like This.

Anything less will probably still cause the humming and the fan damage.

u/grow_time · 2 pointsr/microgrowery
u/WRipper · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

Damn yeah that must be loud. I have that fan as well. Highly recommend. Get a variac controller to run it as well. So you can turn it down.

PHC Enterprise SC-3M Variac Variable Transformer, 300 VAC Max, 0-130V Output, 3 Amp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006NGI8VS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_l3Gjzb63MZW1C

u/SemiSekki · 2 pointsr/AskEngineers

I think you're right. Would this model be compatible with my 120V, 1000W bulb? What would happen if I went up to 130V on the variac?

u/ProfessionalHobbyist · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I soldered my ergodox PCBs with my hakko set to 650 F (about 340-350 C). Just don't keep the iron on the switch solder posts any longer than necessary. Basically, if you don't have a perfect joint in 3 seconds, you did something wrong. The traces are small enough on keyboard PCBs that you probably don't even need that high of a temp, but I think it helped to make nice shiny joints when using lead-free solder.

The same temps worked with a separate de-soldering pump that I have that is similar to this one. I haven't used the integrated kind that you linked to before. Over 400C, you are risking burning up small traces and delicate components, but you are probably okay if you work fast. If you really wanted to control temp on that cheap desoldering iron, you could plug it in through a variable transformer.

Soldering components to a huge, thick PCB ground plane on my tesla coil kit, on the other hand... that was more of a challenge. I dialed it up to 750F (400C), and should have been using extra flux.

u/sheldor90 · 2 pointsr/roasting

Personally I got a 301 and wish I would have gotten a 304... wish I would have made my ET a probe and not a dial gauge. I run it with artisan, but it’s nice knowing if something happens with the comp you can still roast if you want to. I also feel like there is a little lag in the computer so I glance at the thermometer from time to time.

I got an extra motor without the case as a backup ($20)

And https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00XKDEVIQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
Works like a charm

I went to 3 hardware stores before I realized there are inside and outside threads on the regulator to the propane tank... so you’re good there, I’m just dumb I guess

Lastly I highly recommend getting one of these
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006NGI8VS?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Happy roasting :)

u/vladsinger · 2 pointsr/headphones

Is it GSM noise like 30 seconds into this video? If it is, you may have some luck suppressing it by adding some ferrite beads to the various cables: http://www.maclife.com/article/iphone_buzz_kill.
Easier to use snap-on ones like these rather than harvesting them from other cables.

u/y-aji · 2 pointsr/synthdiy

This.. I have really been enjoying look mum's cem 3340 tutorial:
https://www.lookmumnocomputer.com/cem-3340-diy-simple/

I would strongly suggest getting a resistor and capacitor kit off ebay or amazon.. They're like 15$-20$ each. That will get you a few of a huge range of resistors and caps:

https://www.amazon.com/Top-cofrLD-Resistors-1640pcs-resistors-Assortment/dp/B00WE1FQ8Y/ref=sr_1_14?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1541720878&sr=1-14&keywords=resistor+book

https://www.amazon.com/Joe-Knows-Electronics-Value-Capacitor/dp/B007SVHFXO/ref=sr_1_5?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1541720924&sr=1-5&keywords=capacitor+kit&dpID=41%252BFAHpNRVL&preST=_SX342_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

The worst part of these projects is waiting for parts. So Building up a little surplus of this kind of stuff will make your wait time much lower..

u/Shadow703793 · 2 pointsr/arduino

That's probably one of the better kits I've seen.

With that being said, no matter what kit you get, get a variety/assorted pack of resistors and capacitors. For example: http://www.amazon.com/Joe-Knows-Electronics-Value-Capacitor/dp/B007SVHFXO/

Check Ebay and such to get these cheap.

u/ishmal · 2 pointsr/amateurradio

For straight ham stuff, I've used mostly Gigaparts and DX Engineering recently.

Recently I've discovered electronic parts "starter kits" like these,
that can get a ham a good start on an well-stocked lab:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E9Z0OCG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007SVHFXO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


u/Apotheocrisy · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Adults are just outdated children. You can tell from looking at my wishlist-I want a rock. Bismuth to be exact. It's ridiculously pretty and it comes in rainbow colors!

u/Guepardita · 2 pointsr/GiftIdeas

No problem :)

Bismuth crystal.

The Science of Booze.

This book, which takes a look into the Kennedy murders.

u/CarbonGod · 2 pointsr/firewater

In the past I've used a large box type thing to control the heat output of my 1500w element. It got VERY VERY hot, and burnt out, because apparently i should have put a giant heatsink on the back (Why would it NOT come with one?)

Anyway....looking up motor controllers again, I see nothing but these guys. Rated at 2kw should be good for a 1500w element, but I'm not sure if PWM is a good thing, compared to plain old analog tuning. I guess it depends on the pulse width, right? 10hz compared to 0.1hz might be fine.


Edit: this is what I had which apparently is a FAN controller, and obviously analog (rheostat)

u/Jim-Jones · 2 pointsr/electricians

Sure. Does yours have a 2 pin or a 3 pin plug?

Something like this should work fine.

Photo of the label on the tray would help.

u/audiojeff · 2 pointsr/wine

Its not just the a single capacitor on the units that is prone to failure, a compressor start circuit usually contains a starting capacitor with resistor, run capacitor and a relay. Often these parts are married to an overload protection device. Last, you can have the compressor itself fail. The good news is that all of these parts can be easily obtained, and there are universal replacements that fit many different makes. Hers is a really popular one, its $12. https://www.amazon.com/Supco-RCO810-START-Hard-Start/dp/B00A8O0E5Y

And here's a video on how they work. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RamyqjqeLXA

u/pinionworth · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

I think this could make a sizable difference in noise. Mine really helped

3A Variac Variable AC Power Transformer 0~130 VAC by Parts Express
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BXJYO6I/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_NGuwtb0A7R1N0

u/djwonderful · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

Ok. My first go at it was a DIY tent out of PVC pipe and panda film. It worked well, except near the end I did not have enough air flow, the whole things grew up into the light and went tits up.

I spent a TON of time designing what I wanted in the space I could fit it in. I used autodesk homestyler. http://www.homestyler.com/designer I'm not going to share it, because I didn't even end up using the design. I have a big ass pipe that runs though it, so I rotated everything 90 degrees to accommodate for it.

Here is the mini tour of my area. the drawing is in google draw and was to help me with my plumbing situation.
http://imgur.com/a/hTpgW

anyway, the main outer walls are cement or drywall. The inner is 3/4" PVC. If I had to do over, I'd go with 1" PVC. I started with Reflectix over the pvc. This was still letting some light leak though the material, so I went and put an inner layer of panda film over it.

The doors are pvc style doors for a greenhouse. I'm not too happy with them and I'll redo them at some point, but they work for now. Better than a zipper.

Electric. I ran a 20 amp circuit just for the room. I put outlets everywhere, but I still could have used a few more.. plan for everything, I put one outlet up high for a circulation fan, wish I did a second.

Plumbing. I ran it right into my res. I pump back out into the 3" pipe running overhead. No sink... yet.

Light is a 600w ipower. I'd probably go LED if I was going to buy again.

The system is a 3x3 ebb and flow tray. I'm running 10 plants right now. I want to just get a viable mother plant. I'm going for 3 strains, so I have to do it 2 more times. After that I will clone 36 plants in 6" netpots. One strain at a time.

I use the lucas formula for nutes with General hyponics maxibloom
http://lucasformula.com/

your fan looks good. I have one of these to go with mine: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BXJYO6I/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I like nirvana seeds. https://www.nirvanashop.com/en/13-indoor-marijuana-seeds

Other than that, I would say make a DIY tent first out of PVC and panda film. Get 1 grow under your belt and then build something out of wood. Let me know how it goes.

u/D4rkStr4wberry · 2 pointsr/diypedals

I’m not sure I’d call it bulk but here’s what I ordered: ELEGOO 17 Values 1% Resistor Kit... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072BL2VX1?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

They come pre organized into little packets in a clear box. Super handy and takes up less space than if I put them in the drawers.
Hope this helps.

u/IgnitedSpade · 2 pointsr/ender3

I had a problem with the 5v regulator fluctuating on my gen L which caused the temps on the bed and hotend to fluctuate by about 3-5 degrees. An ultra low ESR cap connected to a 5v and ground pin fixed that.

u/BootsC5 · 1 pointr/Chromecast

I'd like a solution too. I've added ferrite cores (https://www.amazon.com/Ferrite-Core-Cord-Noise-Suppressor/dp/B0002MQGE0) to the supplied audio cable and I still get hissing and popping.

u/briellie · 1 pointr/techsupport

Random shot in the dark, but...

Get yourself pone of these (or something similar - can always yank one off of an old power cord too) and wrap the USB wire through the center of the core twice.

Its possible there's some interference traveling down the ground wire/shield and into the speakers even if its not an analog audio connection.

Try a front USB port instead of a back one, or vice versa.

There is also the possibility that the card is dragging the system down and not giving the USB chipset enough resources to handle the audio stream. Try updating drivers for the USB device as well.

u/r0ll3rb0t · 1 pointr/buildapc

I say NVIDIA because you can use VDPAU in Linux. I have a GT430 w/ 1gb ram that uses the card to decode all my video in Ubuntu (I use both XBMC and MythTV) Its very easy to use once you have the drivers installed.

VA-API is what (I believe) AMD and Intel use. I have never used this, but from what i've read its not easy to setup.

I am not against using Windows for HTPC, I just recall having major problems getting everything the way I wanted. I'm currently looking at building a second HTPC, and I might need to go Windows because I want to ditch my cables boxes and switch to a HDPrime/Cablecard.

Some audio notes; you need to use either HDMI or optical S/PDIF to your TV/Reciever. If you use the 1/8" audio outs, you will most likely receive a ground loop hum. You can reduce this by putting ferrite cores (chokes) around all the audio cables. This should help reduce the crappy sound you'll get. I only use HDMI and S/PDIF because of this.

Hope this helps.

u/Tantric989 · 1 pointr/recording

I'm using a 2i2 and not having any issues like this. I just tested it, and even with using a Shure SM58 (very different mic, SM58 is a vocal mic) and plugging in my acoustic electric the first few seconds of the track are completely silent on both channels.

I'm not much of an expert here but you may have either electronic or literal background noise. I used to run a Dean Markley Soundhole pickup to amp my acoustic guitar and it would have interference, and I just picked up a couple of ferrite cores from RadioShack for like $5. They seem like some kind of magic, but the magnetic ferrite core just snapped onto the line cord fixed my problem. You can find them on Amazon for like $4.

http://www.amazon.com/Ferrite-Core-Cord-Noise-Suppressor/dp/B0002MQGE0/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1449275303&sr=8-4&keywords=ferrite+core+1%2F4%22

The second thing may just be the fans on the laptop or anything else in the room. I'd try changing the power settings on the laptop to low power, that uses less energy and will spin the fans at lower rpm making them quieter.

Finally, I'd try the Line and INST selector switches as I think that might be part of your problem. I'm not much of an expert, but here's the manual page on the two options.

> The front panel input sockets are Neutrik Combo®, which accept either an XLR male connector (you
will probably have one on the end of your microphone cable) or a ¼” (6.35 mm) jack plug. Note the
Scarlett 2i2 has no “Mic/line” switch – the Focusrite preamplifier stage is automatically configured
for a microphone when you plug an XLR into the input, and for a line or instrument when you connect
a jack plug. Set the LINE/INST switch next to the socket to INST if you are connecting a musical
instrument (a guitar in the example) via an ordinary 2-pole (TS) guitar jack, or to LINE if you are
connecting a line level source such as the balanced output of a stage piano via a 3-pole (TRS) jack.
Note the Combo connector accepts both TRS and TS types of jack plug.

I'm fairly sure if you're using the SM57 mic it's using an XLR connector, what you definitely don't want is some kind of adapter that changes it from XLR (the three prong cord) to a 2-prong TS or TRS jack. XLR is a balanced cable and shouldn't have as many problems with interference. It seems like with XLR it doesn't matter what the selector switch is set at.

Hope this helps, good luck.

u/goldfishpaws · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

You're going to need a step down transformer. This kind of thing https://smile.amazon.co.uk/240v-110v-Step-Down-Transformer/dp/B000NIYH94/ref=pd_sbs_147_4/260-0762073-8654467

The device is rated at 69W, so you really need at least 150VA rating transformer to allow for power factor issues and startup inrush current. This one is 300W/VA, which may be a little too big, but should be a safe bet. You could likely get away with a 200W/VA model.

I don't think the frequency difference 50Hz vs 60Hz is going to be a big problem in this case. Unless anyone knows differently.

u/Squibbolata · 1 pointr/travel

If you have stuff that requires 120V (American standard) and you go to a country with stuff thats up in the 200s (Europe, Asia, basically everywhere else you are likely to go with lots of electronics), then your 120V stuff might blow up. You need a step-down transformer like this: www.amazon.co.uk/240v-110v-Step-Down-Transformer/dp/B000NIYH94

Which is obviously massive and i doubt you'll want to carry that around. Far better to leave your 120V-only stuff at home. There's also a 50Hz or 60Hz frequency difference, but that usually doesn't have an effect unless you have stuff with AC motors in it (maybe your hair dryer?), in which case it will spin slightly slower in 50Hz countries.

u/nerdburg · 1 pointr/Comcast_Xfinity

If you don't want to wait for a tech, you could fix that with a 10dB pad.

u/pmmguy · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

put a 10dB pad if you have it handy. If not, ask Tech to fix the line. but this reduced ds power aswell.

https://www.amazon.com/10-DB-Attenuator-Pad-Each/dp/B0013L56OK

​

​

u/baddays79 · 1 pointr/diypedals

I bought most of the kits from Small Bear Electronics (the exception was the resistor kits). They are one of the only sources I've found for capacitor kits, transistors, op amps, pots, etc and they have some great stuff available.

Link to kits here

Spent about $100 but it took a lot less time than ordering all the items separately on Mouser.

I also bought a resistor kit from Joe Knows Electronics on Amazon.

Link to resistor kit here

I would also recommend buying a component tester, it's one of the best purchases I've made. It makes it feasible to pull all the components off of your breadboard and sort them quickly so you can reuse them. Also very handy in double checking a component value when you're building a pedal without looking at the color coding, etc.

Link to component tester

u/ToxicFox2 · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

Good idea! For anyone who wants to have a set of organized resistors I would recommend this kit. Only $18 in Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/Joe-Knows-Electronics-Value-Resistor/dp/B003UC4FSS

u/CoptorTare · 1 pointr/arduino

I'm a big fan of this kit, mostly because the resistors already come in individually labeled bags, but its a bit more expensive. Amazon

u/structure77 · 1 pointr/arduino

For the organization reason I just got this. Chocked full of values I'll probably never need, but now I have them and at least a way to keep them all organized!

u/Weird_With_A_Beard · 1 pointr/arduino

I ordered this pack last night.

u/cdyvan · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

Would you recommend having an electrician come and do this capacitor switch?

Also, would this transformer not work for this? Thanks!

u/Miguelito624 · 1 pointr/microgrowery

Electronix Express Variac Variable Transformer, 300 VAC Max, 0-130V Output, 3 Amp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006NGI8VS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_rxDcAb0C6JSJD

I️ used this for my vortex 6in.

u/Zatch_Gaspifianaski · 1 pointr/microgrowery

That is my exact setup for my veg tent, other than I use a 400w MH. It was my first tent, but I wanted a continuous cycle, so I got a bigger tent for flowering.

The actual draw on that 700w model is 334w so that would probably be the one to go with, and probably won't need any supplemental lighting.

After buying the fan speed controller, while it does work, I found out that apparently it isn't the right kind for the type of motor the fans use. This is a little more expensive, but is supposed to be better on your fan motors.

u/morto00x · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

I see. Then you might consider looking for a variac like this. I only bought one once so other redditors may know better about brands.

u/FastRedPonyCar · 1 pointr/Guitar

congrats OP! I really enjoyed mine but just had too many amps and ended up selling it.

Grab a variac for some really great vintage chunk (very very different than the actual variac mode on the amp BTW)

This one I made using the variac mode on the amp but an actual variac will soften/loosen everything even more.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Ea9KKuA_y0

I got this one

https://www.amazon.com/PHC-Enterprise-Variac-Variable-Transformer/dp/B006NGI8VS

u/MrBabyHands · 1 pointr/microgrowery

If you want ultimate silence, do NOT get a fan controller - get a variac instead.

u/_fups_ · 1 pointr/microgrowery

If your grow space is small, get a variac controller and turn down the fan speed. I have mine at 30%-ish and it’s nearly silent.

Cheaper fan speed controllers are noisy. You get what you pay for.

u/VeryLowSodyPop · 1 pointr/microgrowery
u/Ghigs · 1 pointr/electrical

Most any dimmer that works on "chopping" the AC cycle can cause buzzing. You'd have to go with a pretty fancy and more expensive one that could generate a cleaner signal if it bothers you.

Something like a variac would give you clean power with no possibility of buzzing.

http://www.amazon.com/Variac-Variable-Transformer-300va-Output/dp/B006NGI8VS

It would be pushing this one right to it's full rating, but this one should work.

Edit- Here's a 5 amp with a little more capacity to be safe:
http://www.amazon.com/Variac-Variable-Transformer-500va-Output/dp/B006NGI2RS/

u/Absentee23 · 1 pointr/microgrowery

The iPower fans seem to be junk. Here's the one I bought: a 6" Hydrofarm, 400CFM (actually an ActiveAir brand fan). Much better than the 175 the ipower 6" was pushing.

It's loud at full blast, and probably more than you need. This is good though, because you can get a speed controller to turn it down. The fan gets much quieter even at 75%, and I run mine at less than 50% to cool my small cab w/aircooled 400w HPS. You can get this speed controller if you don't mind a slightly annoying electric hum from your fan (I have this and sleep in the room with it at night), or you could get the more expensive variac controller that eliminates this hum (and probably helps your fan last longer too).

The centrifugal inline fans are much more powerful than the axial booster fans, and will force air through a carbon filter easily, so get one that is sized correctly for the fan. (heres mine, sized for that hydrofarm/activeair fan)

I keep a steady 78º-79ºF in the cabinet (2.5'x1.5'x4' grow space) with 75º-77ºF ambient room temps, and the air exhausted right back into the room (central air keeping the room at 76ºF helps).

u/aesthetics247 · 1 pointr/microgrowery

Don't forget a speed controller! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006NGI8VS/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

this one's highly recommended and people say it helps reduce the humming on the inline fan compaerd to cheaper speed controllers.

I'm sure the apollo tents are fine, I've heard slightly better reviews for the vivosun tents. This one's about $12 more than yours i think. https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Horticulture-Hydroponic-Obeservation-Growing/dp/B01DXYMQ9M/ref=sr_1_2?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1478889774&sr=1-2&keywords=vivosun+48

The Mars 300 is chill for the price, you probably want to want to get a second one if you're going to have multiple plants in that tent. People say 1 mars 300 per plant should get you good results, almost pushing it with two full plants under a single mars 300.

Also if and when possible, try to invest in a good pH meter. everyone recommends bluelabs! https://www.amazon.com/Bluelab-Ultimate-Solution-Measuring-Temperature/dp/B008R7OWJS/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1478889906&sr=1-3&keywords=bluelabs+ph+pen

I didn't PH at first and my plants were dying on me... turns out my tap PH was above 7.0 ph. the PH pen saved grow!

u/daairguy · 1 pointr/microgrowery

Yes I actually just ordered the fan and filter so I actually dont have it running yet but this fan will be cooling my hood. Im planning on setting it up like this. Ill have the filter hung up in the corner top of my tent, then Ill attach the fan to it, then the hood, then have ducting taking the exhaust outside of my tent. This fan has a low and high speed., 239/333 cfm I believe. You can also get one of these that can help you control your speed as well. Im planning on getting a 4in filter (thats all i need, its cheaper and lighter too) and getting a 4 to 6 in duct converter (just a few buck at home depot)

http://www.amazon.com/Variac-Variable-Transformer-300va-Output/dp/B006NGI8VS

u/gj80 · 1 pointr/DataHoarder

Aside from the recommendation to shuck the drives (I'd transfer data off them one at a time before doing so), you could just put a box fan in front of all of them and run it on low. Or, any smaller "desktop" fan you might find in a local store or online. Anything like that should provide sufficient airflow to keep them cool enough as long as it's right in front of them.

It would follow the KISS principle, and it would only cost ~$15-ish

Oh, and if you want to be able to smoothly dial the speed of a box fan down to any arbitrary point (if "low" is still louder/faster than you want, which has sometimes been the case for me in the past), then what you want is a variac transformer between the box fan and the outlet. A little pricey to pair with a cheap box fan, I know, but I use that with one and it's quite nice since the box fan moves air while being almost totally silent, with no coil whine. You could do the same with a smaller turbine-style fan if you wanted something smaller.

u/Cool-Beaner · 1 pointr/RTLSDR

Very much this. Add some ferrites to your USB extender cable and you will also reduce some of the background noise.

u/itsMalarky · 1 pointr/buildapc

Gotcha, thanks for the reply.

I have a feeling you're right, and that it's due to the cheap front audio cable getting interference....and that the new GPU i installed pumps just enough power to make it more noticeable.

I have some new monitor cables coming in...so I will see if they make a difference, if not I will try to get one of those ferrite chokes to see if it makes a difference.

I also haven't taken off the front panel to give simply "jiggling the handle" of the front audio cable a shot to see if it changes anything.

u/shiekhgray · 1 pointr/diypedals

I bought one of these a few years ago, and it's stood by me. I've had to restock a few values, but this has gotten me close enough for 95% of my projects. Same for their resistor kit. I got the digital logic kit as well (lots of transistors and diodes) but it hasn't been as useful to me.

u/Bugos19 · 1 pointr/electronics
  • I can't recommend a better book than this one.
  • Get this resistor kit. Seriously, I bought one of these a year ago and I've never once had to buy more resistors.
  • You're going to need a capacitor set like this one.
  • You're also going to need a breadboard.
  • Make a trip to Maplin and get an assortment pack of LEDs and a few switches. Trust me, this will make your life a tons easier when it comes to making proof of concept or test circuits. And they make circuitry more interactive and fun!
  • Lastly, get a cheap multimeter. You can get one at Maplin or somewhere similar for like <15 pounds.

    Sorry about the links, I'm in the US so the prices will be in USD but that shouldn't be a problem. I really hope you find this hobby as intriguing as I do, I started a year ago making little flashlights and what-not and now I'm making motion detectors and all kinds of cool gadgets. If you'd like some guidance or help, don't think twice about PMing me! Best of luck.
u/stillborn86 · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

Well, breadboards run pretty cheap... And size matters here. Sometimes a smaller board is better, but a large board gives you more room to work with. So I'd recommend getting both! A small board will be nice for smaller projects, but larger boards will be nice for more in-depth prototyping that require more room to work with. And he can always use a small area of a large board when he doesn't need it all... but a large board won't fit into a small boat or airplane if that's what he is doing... So, at a good price, both can be beneficial.

Other than that, he'll need jumpers (male/female), and maybe a ribbon cable. Ribbon cables need a T-board (or equivalent) to connect to the breadboard with, but jumpers just plug into the GPIO pins. With a small breadboard, jumpers are favorable, as they only take up as much space as one pinhole, and they come in many different colors and lengths. A larger board can accommodate a ribbon cable and T-board more readily... a T-board can take up a LOT of space on a small breadboard REALLY quickly.

Word to the wise: if you buy a ribbon cable and T-board, you are going to want to know what type of Pi he has. The original versions had fewer GPIO pins than the B+ and the A+ versions. This means that a larger ribbon cable wouldn't work with the original Pi's. If he has an A or B, a 40 pin cable/T-board wouldn't work as they're designed for the newer B+ and A+. If you need help identifying which board he has, we can help you with a photo or a description of the board...

Also, a resistor kit and a capacitor kit would be good to have, if he doesn't already have them. Most projects require that you use resistors/capacitors somewhere, and the kits usually come with several of the most used resistors/capacitors, which should tie him over for some time.

Then you should get him an LED set. LEDs are nice because they can be used as a "proof of concept" tool. Since everything into and out of the Pi is digital, all you are doing is giving an item voltage. So it doesn't matter if you're using a buzzer, motor, servo, or LED... they will all work interchangeably. He can use an LED to prove that his code and wiring works when the light comes on... then, when it all works, he can swap the LED for a buzzer or something, and everything should still work, just with sound instead of light.

You could also buy him some sort of case, but these aren't always necessary. I don't use on on my Pi, and it works just fine... I just have to make sure I'm not shorting it on anything, or breaking it in some stupid way. These vary so much in design and price, I'll let you search for them instead of providing a link... just remember, like the ribbon cable, cases will obviously depend on the model he has.

Personally, I would stay away from potentiometers and photoresistors since the Pi only has digital inputs. Both of these items would need to be attached as analog items to work properly, and that means buying extra boards for correct functionality. The Raspberry Pi can not natively read analog inputs, so these items would only be frustrating to him since he can't use them without extra parts.

This should get him started in coding and prototyping. If he's looking for motors, servos, or speakers, you can get him those too, but they're not necessary to tinker with a Pi.

There are also kits that offer these items, but they're usually more expensive than they have to be, and they may or may not have everything you're looking for. Also, there are other places to shop for these types of things, but I use Amazon because it was the quickest and easiest place to search for examples of all of these things for this post. If you're smart with your shopping, you can get all of these items for ~$100, and might be able to have them shipped before Christmas... but you're going to have to hurry.

EDIT: Added links since you said you knew "nothing" about these items. This should make searching easier since you can actually see what I'm talking about...

u/gentlethistle · 1 pointr/diypedals

This is a good starter CAP Kit

And in a pinch for work I needed some resistors, so I drove over and bought this KIT
for $8.

It is nice to have a range of stuff laying around, but you will never be able to stock everything you may ever need.

I dont stock many trannys (maybe 5 varieties), but I do have a few drawers of IC's.

u/orika07 · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Time for a new addition to your wishlist! Bismuth

u/domumegosum · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

I'd have to say the weirdest thing on my list is this bismuth crystal I just think it's super neat, also one could say its pretty California.

u/MarkusGordathian · 1 pointr/pics

Also, bismuth is very cheap. It seems like it would look awesome in a display case.

u/alderaanirebel · 1 pointr/stevenuniverse

On Amazon! It's surprisingly cheap.

u/CodenameMolotov · 1 pointr/interestingasfuck

> edit: yeah, it's available on Amazon Canada/US (and other places too, I assume)

There are much cooler elements you can buy on amazon.

They have everything. (Sure, it's unrefined and only useful for geiger counter calibration, but still.)

u/NegativeEyeballs · 1 pointr/teenagers

He would skip sections at a time. He'd just go, "Eh, you probably won't need this." On the bright side, he was more than willing to go over the skipped material with whoever was curious. He even offered to teach calc 2 to a woman who was taking a semester off to care for her son. He's a great guy.

You know what, how about a bismuth crystal?

Pros:

  • Doesn't stain
  • Stays solid
  • Shiny and colorful
  • Great listener
  • Science
  • Won't eat your food and break your heart

    Cons:

  • None!
u/accioveritaserum · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

http://www.amazon.com/Educational-Innovations-Bismuth-Crystal/dp/B008MB1MCE/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=2QQ95AS53U57B&coliid=I2J2971B3PS6MI


BISMUTH CRYSTAL.

I am so fascinated by crystal growth patterns. My boyfriend took me to NYC for my birthday last year and had to drag me from the crystal exhibit at the Museum of Natural History because they were closing :( I can't wait to go back.

u/Oster · 1 pointr/AmazonTopRated

Lifetime lowest price on Amazon: https://thetracktor.com/detail/B008MB1MCE/us/

u/soawesomejohn · 1 pointr/AndroidQuestions

You should get some ferrite cores. Put one on each end of the cables (your charger and your audio cable).

It's most likely engine noise entering the charging cable, but it could also get picked up by the audio cable.

You can try different schemes. It may be placebo, but I think they do best when they have one wrap around the core, like shown here.

u/TheAwesomer · 1 pointr/DanceDanceRevolution

I did the same thing for some DDRGame pads and can confirm this works. Here is the pinout information you will need: http://pinouts.ru/Game/cobalt_flux_pinout.shtml

Just a note, I have been having some problems with the board cutting out mid-play, but I think it is because of static. I bought these ferrite cores to help and now the pads work (as long as you play without shoes for some reason): https://www.amazon.com/UF-50B-Noise-Suppressor-Ferrite-Filters/dp/B009ENG6TI/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1469024572&sr=1-1&keywords=ferrite+core . Still trying to figure out why the USB cuts out when I play with shoes though... think I have to ground the entire pad D:.

u/pleione · 1 pointr/amateurradio

Use a USB extension cable, like this, and clip a ferrite choke on each end. Route the USB such that it doesn't cross, or ideally, come anywhere near any power cords or transformers, and place the dongle as far away from the PC as you can.

It'll help a bit, but it's still a $15 piece of hardware, and as such, won't be perfect.

u/Rayezilla · 1 pointr/techsupport

is it an HDMI monitor? If you have audio cables you can try clipping a ferrite bead on it.

If you get a lot of buzzing and there's no interference than it's mostly likely a failing speaker.

u/homeboi808 · 1 pointr/hometheater

Expensive? Not sure if the diameter matches, but here’s a pack of 5.

u/t-ara-fan · 1 pointr/astrophotography

Sounds like RF noise from the 19V converter getting into 12V power. Maybe buy something like this for both the power leads to your laptop and the camera.

u/_kemot · 1 pointr/techsupport

amazon? ebay?

link link

I'm not sure this will solve it 100% but it's worth a try. If not return it or go to a shop near you and ask for this and if its possible to test it out and return it.

u/WolfOfAsgaard · 1 pointr/whatcarshouldIbuy

Maybe looping the wire around a ferrite bead may help?

u/dcoolidge · 1 pointr/diyaudio

Way cool! Thank you. I couldn't figure out the proper name for them. I just ordered some off of amazon ;) Link.

u/schmogramming · 1 pointr/HVAC

So a router speed controller would not work?

What about a device like this?

https://www.amazon.com/TruePower-Electronic-Stepless-Controller-Brush-type/dp/B009KAEP7A

u/eatgoodneighborhood · 1 pointr/woodworking

How wide is your maple? Something to consider: I have a 12" 5hp Belsaw planer at my shop in Hagerstown, I'd be willing to give you access to for lumber trade. Also, I noticed you need a motor for your lathe, I have 4 electric motors that I don't use, I think most have pulleys. I purchased this a while ago as a speed controller, it works great.

Those slabs sound amazing. How did you get those milled?

u/ejo4041 · 1 pointr/woodworking

>How wide is your maple? Something to consider: I have a 12" 5hp Belsaw planer at my shop in Hagerstown, I'd be willing to give you access to for lumber trade. Also, I noticed you need a motor for your lathe, I have 4 electric motors that I don't use, I think most have pulleys. I purchased this a while ago as a speed controller, it works great.

>Those slabs sound amazing. How did you get those milled?

I also have a 12" planer. Some of the board are over 18 or 20. I think I'll be ripping most of them down anyways. Thanks for the offer on the motor, I recently picked up 2. I just need to get a belt that fits now.
The slabs I had done by 2griffins. They had an Alaskan chainsaw mill. That was really cool to watch. If you ever want to come see some of it, let me know.

u/benmarvin · 1 pointr/Welding

Find yourself an old fan motor or an old plug in drill and hook it up with something like this http://www.amazon.com/TruePower-Electronic-Stepless-Controller-Brush-type/dp/B009KAEP7A

u/IncredulousDesire · 1 pointr/SexToys

I've had good luck with a router speed controller. You can find them at most hardware stores for very little money.

u/electriclumpyland · 1 pointr/DIY

not sure how or if it will work for what you're using it for but - you need a relay and overload to start that compressor -

this will get it going if it is from a full size refrigerator:
http://www.amazon.com/Supco-RCO410-OVERLOAD-CAPACITOR-Electronics/dp/B000LDB89S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1404426639&sr=8-2&keywords=supco+rco410

if it is from a small refrigerator this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Supco-RCO810-START-Hard-Start/dp/B00A8O0E5Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404426755&sr=8-1&keywords=rco810

u/DeadlyElixir · 1 pointr/appliancerepair

>So I could use https://www.amazon.com/Supco-RCO810-START-Hard-Start/dp/B00A8O0E5Y
>
>and it should work just fine? Or are there different relays and I need to do more looking to find one to match my model?

Sorry to bother, wasn't sure if you saw it before! \^_\^

u/lewis1243 · 1 pointr/techsupport

I purchased this for a similar problem you have. Works very well. Plugged it into my PC and the wifi was just as quick as if I was next to the router.

https://www.amazon.com/Ideaworks-Distance-USB-Powered-Antenna-72-6612/dp/B00BDE4IUK/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1486736702&sr=1-3&keywords=long+range+wifi+antenna

u/thelude · 1 pointr/GoRVing

I use this guy cheap and it works great

u/heatedundercarriage · 1 pointr/microgrowery

ah thanks! ive just been looking those up and it looks like youre right (mine cuts the sine wave to reduce power). this there one anyone can recommend? something like this maybe?

u/freakydrew · 1 pointr/roasting

something like this and this

dumb question, would the kill-a-watt plug into the variac with the behmor plugged into the kill-a-watt? or behmor to variac to kill-a-watt to wall socket? (the latter does not make sense to me, but I am not a smart man)

u/hotswapper · 1 pointr/microgrowery

The fan speed controller from the starter shopping list on the sidebar was a total piece of garbage. At first I thought the problem I was having was from my inline fan but after goin through 3... three goddamn fans it turns out that the controller was jacking things up. Started working fine but after a few weeks I could hear the fan that is in the basement all the way up on the 2nd floor.

Did some research n questioning that led me to buy a Variac Variable AC Power Transformer. It is pricey as a fill in for a fan speed controller but 8 months have passed with no issues.

This is on a 400watt setup. You may need a beefier transformer for a larger grow room. Be safe.

u/jimjacksonsjamboree · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

So, if I'm understanding you correctly, you simply want position feedback, and not the ability to control motors? If so, I have had good results with these encoders. They are simple and fairly inexpensive. They are relative, which means they do not report a position inasmuch as they report a rotation. It is up to you to keep track of their rotation and to zero it out. A known position + a rotation gives you a known position, but you will have to zeroize them when you start up. this could be bad if your system crashes during a performance, you'll have to physically zero out the projectors position. so you may want to look at an absolute encoder, such as this one, which I've never used.

The other problem you will run into is that unless the encoder is mounted directly onto your shaft, you will have to use a transmission of some type (belt and pulley, gear, etc) to rotate the encoder. You will have to measure the turn ratio of shaft to encoder to ensure that the values you are getting back are accurate. For example, if there is a gear reduction of some amount, your encoder will spin fewer times than your shaft, give you bad values. Since I dont really understand where you will mount it, that may or may not be an issue.

Now, others in this thread are telling you to look into an arduino, but they do not have networking capabilities, so by the time you buy a network shield and code up a working osc/udp translation layer (there's probably a library for it, but who knows), you will have spent more time and money than if you just went with the pi, in my humble opinion. Python can run osc and python is very nice for beginners, compared to c++ which you'd be using on an arduino.

u/safetysandals · 1 pointr/arduino

Ha, right :-)

Tried it out with two types of encoder: This one, and something like this cheap-o style, though there could be some differences. Not fast at all in either case, just turning it with my fingers.

Hmm, maybe I'll give it a try with no debounce. I assumed it was needed, but maybe not.

Thanks!

u/AtomKanister · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

100-200 Ohms seems about right. But I recommend buying a resistor kit like this instead of the individual values, makes you more flexible for future projects. And it's even cheaper than the 2 single value stips you listed.

u/3nderr · 1 pointr/battlestations

Something like this. Even though this is overkill for a one off solution. 5% resistors would be fine too.

Elegoo 17 Values 1% Resistor Kit Assortment, 0 Ohm-1M Ohm (Pack of 525) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072BL2VX1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_yAK0AbPG0JMZD

u/luke1900cc · 1 pointr/ProHVACR

Most boards I've come across really don't appreciate and are sensitive to anything above 27-28 VAC.
Edit:
Nice kit I bought on Amazon for similar situations.
Elegoo 17 Values 1% Resistor Kit Assortment, 0 Ohm-1M Ohm (Pack of 525) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072BL2VX1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_q2k.AbW3C1F4A

u/sparkitekt · 1 pointr/Multicopter

I've read everywhere that these are the best:

6 pcs Panasonic FM Series Electrolytic Capacitors - 35V 1000uf 20% Low Impedance https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073YR6LVK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_AK4MsHl8uDQSE

u/get_MEAN_yall · 1 pointr/diydrones

Like you said its a good idea to filter the vtx power source. That's probably what the CAP port is for (there is a CAP+ and CAP- right?). Capacitors absorb voltage spikes and act as a filter. Use a high capacitance low ESR cap like this one
It's uncommon for VTX power sources to require 12v. If you use a modern vtx like this you can just run it straight off the battery without a BEC, with a cap attached in parallel ideally.

u/lodc · 1 pointr/amateurradio

I often use a surface pro 4 with aprs. It definitely generates some RF noise though not as bad as some laptops I've used before. Something as simple as a frayed or loose cable can make a big difference though.

​

Technically yes you could install a filter between the antenna and the handheld, but I don't think thats the road you want to go down. I would start by getting some ferrite beads (anything like this): https://www.amazon.com/Cedmon-Pieces-Ferrite-Suppressor-Diameter/dp/B07CWCSNW9/ref=sr_1_5

Snap them around any or all cables coming out of the surface, see if things work better. If one helps, try two or loop the cord through it a couple times for even better suppression. You can listen on your handheld with the squelch held open and see if the noise changes or gets quieter when you put them on. Also compare running on battery vs having the charger plugged in, sometimes one will be a lot noisier than the other.

u/scorp00 · 1 pointr/CarAV
u/anthonynyc62 · 1 pointr/huion

Hi Guys, Just a suggestion before giving up and sending it back, have you considered adding some clip-on Ferrite cores onto the cable to see if it suppresses the RFI/EMI noise?
I noticed the my Huion Kamvas Pro 16 cable doesn't have any ferrite cores on the ends of the cable but I personally haven't noticed any interference of ghosting and am not sure if the Pro20 cable is also missing them.
I did notice online that the Wacom tablets all have them on each end of their cables so perhaps they would help?
Amazon sells them in kits for various size cables, like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CWCSNW9/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=A1S74XD9IDUGLD&psc=1
I really think adding one on each end of your cables along with any other monitor cables you use that might be missing them will help to get a pristine interference free image.
I hope this helps, Good Luck!

u/joe0400 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

It's a potentiometer knob.

Cylewet 5Pcs 360 Degree Rotary Encoder Code Switch Digital Potentiometer with Push Button 5 Pins and Knob Cap for Arduino (Pack of 5) CYT1100 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DM2YMT4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gnoqDbT62PMJE

u/ArtistEngineer · -1 pointsr/electronics