(Part 2) Best patio, lawn & garden according to redditors
We found 21,627 Reddit comments discussing the best patio, lawn & garden. We ranked the 9,126 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
Not a landlord but I had an infestation when a nearby house was demolished.
It's awful and creepy and gross. I'm so sorry.
This is what i used:
Advion roach bait gel everywhere.(keep away from pets - just put it in weird places pets dont go/cant' get to)Tip: Put dots on top of painters tape bc its hard to get off the walls$40(i have a ref # below, just search on amazon if you hate crap like that)https://www.amazon.com/advion-Plungers-Cockroach-Insecticide-Australian/dp/B00730QW70/ref=sr_1_3?crid=GONLARZ3FFB8&keywords=advion+roach+bait+gel&qid=1564993523&s=lawn-garden&sprefix=advion+roach%2Clawngarden%2C129&sr=1-3
You can also spray the whole house with insect growth regulator (IGR) which stops insects who touch it from reproducing. Try to only use in the house bc outside bugs we need. Its generally $15 on amazon
Hope that helps!
Try advion. That stuff is roach killing magic. https://www.amazon.com/advion-Plungers-Cockroach-Insecticide-Australian/dp/B00730QW70/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=advion&qid=1564814580&s=gateway&sr=8-2
i've been paged for my link dump, so here it is. the first three links are detailed care sheets, then a tub tutorial, and the rest are product recommendations. read everything thoroughly, come back with any questions. let me know if any of the links don't work.
glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. it's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.
FYI those stick on hygrometer/thermometers are very dangerous and sometimes even lethal - he is strong enough to accidentally pull it off the wall but not able to get it off himself if he gets stuck to it afterwards. Pet stores hawk them like candy and I wish they didn't, well intentioned snake parents buy them not knowing. Not only are they dangerous, they are also highly inaccurate. I'd suggest removing it ASAP and replacing it with something digital without adhesive. This is the one I use in my enclosures, the probe lets you get cool side and warm side in the same unit!
If you are willing to cut 4 inch pvc and use a heat gun to mold the openings, this guy shows you how. I then put them in a 5 gallon bucket, food grade from Lowes, with a hole in the top for the tower and another one for adding water and nutrients.
I use a small pump rated for around 5 to 6 feet.
There are 3 nutrients that you can get on Amazon.
Hydroponic Tomato Fertilizer 4-18-38 1lb. 8 grams (10 for tomatoes)
Calcium Nitrate Fertilizer 15.5-0-0 2lb. 8 grams (10 for tomatoes)
Hydroponic Organic Magnesium Sulfate Soluble. 4 grams
I wrapped mine in
kevlarReflectrix. to keep them dark and insulated. Keep the water at around 4 gallons. Change the water and add new nutrient solution every couple of weeks... I use a hand pump, but there are other ways.edit: I just wanted to add that I have towers connected to a timer. 1/2 hour on and off.
You can also purchase the plastic net pots and clay pebbles on Amazon.
This post will get downvoted to oblivion, but sadly this is simply the wrong sub to ask this question, unfortunately. As usual when this question gets asked here, every answer is ignoring your query, dismissing your budget, and instead is insisting that you NEED to spend 2-3 times as much instead. This simply isn't true, and this elitist attitude creates an unnecessary obstacle to people wanting to get their feet wet in this hobby.
You can achieve perfectly acceptable results with a 600 watts LED like this one..
Similarly, this one is a good choice for getting started.
In point of fact, there is a ton of snobbery and bro-science in this hobby. Interestingly the latest research on this subject seems to indicate that tuned-spectrum grow-lights might even be a waste of money, and that bog-standard 5000k LED light bulbs might be perfectly adequate for maximizing indoor-growing yields, at the least.
The Impact of Light Intensity and Spectrum-Tuning on Cannabis Yields
>The results show that holding all else constant, cannabis yields are primarily driven by the intensity of the lighting, whereas there is little evidence that tuned-spectrum lights have a significant increase in yield versus general-purpose, broad-spectrum lights. Moreover, the positive, apparently linear relationship between intensity and yields continues at least to 1500 µmols/m2· s, which is over twice the level provided by an HPS fixture in a grow configuration, which is currently the industry standard. These results are important for two reasons: First, many horticulture LED lights are tuned-spectrum varieties that justify a significant price premium above commoditized broad-spectrum LEDs by arguing that their proprietary spectrum increases the value of a grower’s yields. It is possible that spectrum tuning may improve the cannabinoid profile substantially enough to justify a price premium, but our results provide no evidence that spectrum tuning increases yields. Rather, the more profitable strategy would be to buy commoditized, high-intensity, broad-spectrum LEDs (like flood lights), which are about one-third the cost per watt of horticulture LEDs. The second reason these results are important is that the vast majority of growers use HPS lights. Those who use LED lights are using lights that were designed to use less electricity while providing the same light intensity as an HPS. Our results suggest that both these strategies reduce the grower’s expected profits, since both provide less light than is optimal when trying to maximize yields.
Having read this, I purchased these LED bulbs, splitters, and hanging cords from Amazon, and am running two of those on a single plant in my north facing window as an experiment. So far, the plant is doing just fine, and it seems to be progressing as well as the plant I have under a 600 watt COB.
The title is rather innacurate, I agree. But let's look at what he has actually made.
His machine takes these solar panels, which cost $0.50 per watt (peak output), and wires the components into a series then seals them against the elements (likely costing ~$0.25 for plastic/glue/ect, wild guess there). Meaning you can get $0.75 per watt for a solar panel that you can stick anywhere.
For comparison, a medium scale solar panel costs around $1.15 per watt. This includes a charge controller, which costs about $70 on its own (and the $70 has been included in the cost-per-watt).
So instead of having a huge panel that may need repair and may have one component fail which takes the whole thing offline, you have a hundred plastic packet solar panels. That each cost less than half as much.
If it works as advertised, it has the potential to bring home solar panel costs way down by a third, and make maintenance easier (just throw it out and replace the broken ones). As well as making installation costs easier because you'd really just need a big box that has divots to place the plastic wrapped solar panels in.
Sounds like you were getting outdated or flat-out incorrect information and those 'experienced snake owners' are likewise misinformed. There are very few snakes that legitimately have evolved to thrive on sand-based substrate (irony being the Sand Boa is not one of them; they live in sandy soil which is very different composition than straight sand). The Ball Python is native to the svannah/jungles of Sub-Saharan Africa. Its dirt, soil, and burrows. Not a majority or even significant amount of sand.
Additionally, if I extrapolate correctly from this singular picture, your BP is also in a glass enclosure and has a log-style hide. The former makes keeping humidity in the 55~80% range a difficult exercise, and the latter, is a stressor as BPs do best with a hide that has a single-entrance or is cave-like; the more points of contact, the better, and a single entrance means they can feel safer.
I'm going to steal _ataraxia's ball python dump and toss it below:
i'm going to dump a bunch of links to get you on the right track. the first three links are detailed care sheets, the rest are product recommendations. read everything thoroughly.
glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. it's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.
https://www.maximumyield.com/what-is-required-for-plants-to-breath/7/3091
Durring photosynthesis plants release much more oxygen than they consume. Photosynthesis requires light, not necessarily sun light. LED Grow lights are low cost (~$25) and consume little power (~25watts).
https://www.amazon.com/Roleadro-Panel-Spectrum-Growing-Flowering/dp/B01IVQ96KY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1511753012&sr=8-4&keywords=led+grow+light
In fact, indoor plants not only improve air quality, but also have a calming effect, reducing panic in a stressful situation.
[edit]
Why would you want to have dim bulbs in your bunker?
[/edit]
> i basically just need a light and thats it? if i want to grow autoflower only
oh boi... alright here we go.
youll need duct fans for both ventilation and heat dissipation, especially if you go with HPS/MH lights 600/1000watts will require reflectors with ducting so you can connect to it. This will need to exhaust out of your tent. Then you will need a intake fan coming preferably from outside. Youll most likely also need a Carbon filter attached in series to your exhaust fan. Your light will have a ballast as well, which creates a good amount of heat so plan for that to be located outside your tent. Youll also need smaller fans in the corners so you can keep a good air circulation going (hurricane fans are great). Also consider using T5 lights when starting your seeds off as your higher wattage lights are not good for seedlings. Also get a few supplies like gorilla tape and duct clamps and anything else you might need to secure everything together.
When it comes to growing, even if you are only doing autos youll need smart pots, fertilizer, promix HP, perlite plus both vegging and flowering nutrients. Have access to PH up and down solution, and also get a Ph Pen + PPM meter (TDS).
Ive only linked amazon, there are probably other local options for you.
I'm not the person you asked, but I've been using these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IVQ96KY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
So far EVERYTHING I put under them does fantastic. I have apple seeds that sprouted really fast, I have succulents, I have a few flowers and things that don't like too much cold. Everything is doing super well.
Put this all around in the car and underneath if it is stored in a garage. It will kill any kind of insect and is fairly non toxic to humans. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0085HRWI8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1463878556&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=cimex
Red light isn't good, you'll want a heat mat (MAKE SURE you have a thermostat for it or it will get too hot) and possibly a ceramic heat emitter (also needs a thermostat) for air heat. What are the temps and humidity and how do you measure them? Glass tanks usually don't hold humidity well and often aren't good for bps. You need at least 2 good hides, one for each side. They should be snug and enclosed with only one opening, preferably identical, half logs don't work.
Someone should come by with a really good care sheet, read it, it has some great info. I know this might be a lot of information, but having a good setup is important and will save you headaches in the future.
Edit: I found the care sheet. Credit to u/_ataraxia.
Glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. It's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.
OK, some specific advice to your situation follows. However, I recommend you carefully read through _ataraxia's post (pay special attention to the caresheets). That should answer a lot of your questions, and give you good advice for keeping a BP in a tank.
---------------------------------
I've never heard of corn substrate before, how does it do under high humidity? Keep an eye out for mold issues.
Humidity: 80-90 is fine, but will be incredibly difficult in a glass tank with a mesh top. You can get away with ~60% humidity most of the time.
Hides: In the wild, BPs hide in tiny rat holes/rodent dens. They like to feel tight, snug, and secure in their hides. These log hides aren't great at replicating those natural conditions because they have large openings at two ends. Please consider switching both hides to something more secure (even cardboard boxes are fine in a pinch, and these are highly recommended).
Mesh Top: Use tin foil to block off everything except where the lamp sits. This will reflect heat and humidity back down into the tank.
Temps/Humidity: I don't seen a digital gauge in your enclosure. Analog temperature and humidity gauges are notoriously inaccurate (like... WAY off). Digital gauges are cheap and reliable ways to monitor snake-level conditions in the enclosure. You can usually find them at your local Wal-Mart, even.
Water Placement: Most people put their water dish under the lamp so the evaporation increases ambient humidity. However, real estate in your enclosure is limited, especially when you add that second hide. So putting the water dish in the middle might be your best bet. Especially because you do want hides on each of the warm and cool sides.
But yeah, read _ataraxia's caresheets and follow that advice.
Edit: Instead of getting a new tank as she grows up, please consider getting a PVC reptile enclosure instead. Many are designed and made for snakes (whereas tanks are designed for fish!), so they'll make it much easier to maintain heat and humidity and keep your snake comfy and happy. Right now your tank appears a bit small and sparse...
Thanks /r/SpaceBuckets for being such a great resource!
Right now I'm using:
They get mobile in the summer and will travel into your home. This is the most important time to keep a handle on them, you'll see giant watering style roaches and teeny German cockroaches in Houston.
Germans are the bigger concern, they're the sort that likes to infest homes and when an infestation gets going it can be tough, if you're infested you'll see tens or hundreds scatter when you turn on the kitchen lights at night.
If you just see one or two on wet objects occasionally they're probably traveling. Best to use some sort of bait poison in my opinion. I swear by advion cockroach bait which I buy in syringes from Amazon.
It's peanut butter looking gel you lay out near cracks and crevices, along baseboards, backs of cabinets, between the stove and the wall, behind the fridge, countertops on slips of thin cardboard. They'll eat and carry it in and on their bodies back to their nests, where they die. Then their cannibal brethren will eat them, and die. Makes for a very effective treatment, I've used it to help friends fix up terrible German roach infestations in a week or two.
The waterbug varieties die to it too, but they're not so much indoor dwelling roaches so they rarely infest clean appearing homes.
Mostly harmless to animals, active ingredient is indoxacarb which is used in some flea drops.
It used to be about $25 with prime shipping from Amazon but it seems that's not the case at the moment. This was the best I could find.
advion 4 Tubes and 4 Plungers Cockroach German Roach Pest Control Insecticide Bait Gel, Kill German, American, Australian, Smoky, Brown https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00730QW70/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_prdsDbEHJXGCS
Invict Gold seems similar, imidacloprid is its main ingredient, same as advantage II flea drops for animals, and at $25 on amazon not bad.
Rockwell Labs - Invict Gold - Cockroach Gel - 4 Tubes https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049I6CT2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HldsDbDGN91FC
Note on animal toxicity, these chemicals are safe because they're being spread at low concentrations in small areas, not broadly and widely like with sprays. If your animals seek and consume the roach bait that will not only increase the dose but reduce the effectiveness of your bait. I've never had issues with my cats being interested, but maybe a dog would. Just keep the bait out of reach of them as best you can,
I've had a lot of luck with this stuff.
They eat it. Run to the nest. Die and all the others eat them and die.
D'oh, it is. Time to call an exterminator or buy some CimeXa.
First of all. It's very good you recognize that you need help in learning how to care for the snake.
Second, here is a big link dump created by another regular user u/_ataraxia all credit for this goes to her.
the first three links are detailed care sheets, then a tub tutorial, and the rest are product recommendations. read everything thoroughly, come back with any questions.
glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. it's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.
If you are planning to detail for the long term, I'd suggest investing in some bulk / concentrated products rather than the consumer-grade & Ultimate Meguiar's line.
I've tried to break down the supplies I'd suggest. Of course, don't just throw out your existing supplies. Use them up and then get the concentrates / bulk.
Note: There's no need to get everything in this list. Just get what you need. There's also cheaper alternatives to several of the products, and probably cheaper sites than those in my links. Some of the products I use because I want to support the manufacturer and/or because I trust the manufacturer. Use what you like and use it often. :)
 
Dust, light bug gut, and light bird bomb removal / lube
 
Heavy bug gut and bird bomb removal / light grime removal
 
Wheels & Tires
Cleaning
Drying
Dressing
Protecting
 
Body
Rinseless wash
Two bucket wash
Drying
Protecting
 
Glass
Cleaning
Drying
Protecting
 
Engine
 
Exhaust
 
Paint Prep
 
Paint Correction
Cheaper than a prechiller is using a cheap submersible pump in a bucket of ice water. You can recirculate or run your hose into the bucket to keep it topped up as you pump your ice water through the chiller.
I'm just going to drop this link dump from u/_ataraxia. The first three links are fantastic care sheets and will talk about feeder size vs snake size and age. The rest of it highlights products you may need.
I brought one home from golfing about a month ago and went to absolute war. CimeXa is all you need to get rid of them if anyone is out there strugglin'. I learned everything I could about these fuckers and used it once and haven't had any issues since.
Thermostat for the UTH (under tank heater)! That's a BIG MUST for a UTH. Temps that are too high can cause burns and neurological issues (aka brain damage). You can get one relatively cheap. The one I use is here iPower Digital Heat Mat Thermostat
Good luck, you choose the right pet!🐍 Hisss!
u/ataraxia has amazing information for ball pythons. You should definitely read it through. Glass tanks are not ideal for Bps, so this should help. Here is her normal dump of information I took from another post.
i'm going to dump a bunch of helpful links on you. the first three links are detailed care sheets, then a tub tutorial, and the rest are product recommendations. read everything thoroughly, come back with any questions.
glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. it's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.
Home: For the heating pad, you need a thermostat, which will turn it on and off automatically around a specified heat range. Mine is set to 86 degrees with the probe placed between the heat mat and the bottom of the tank. This keeps the glass on top of the tank around 83-85, and the paper towel I have over the glass is around 81-83. You may need to have a different temperature setting, depending on your setup. You shouldn't turn the heat mat entirely off, unless you notice it is malfunctioning and overheating.
To make sure that your temperatures and humidity are decent, you will want a digital thermometer/hygrometer and a temperature gun. The cool side should be in the low-mid 70s and the warm side in the low-mid 80s. The humidity should be 30%-60%. If it isn't, you can make or buy a humid hide, block off some of the venting on the screen top with aluminum foil or acrylic panels, or switch substrates to something that can be misted. This last measure will likely not be necessary unless you live in a low-humidity area.
You should have two identical caves, one on the warm side over the heat mat and one on the cool side.
Diet: What you were told may be appropriate for an adult snake. If possible, weigh her and post pictures. Do a quick Google search on how much adult corns should be eating and how often. I only have a hatchling, and don't want to lead you astray with my lack of adult corn experience.
Handling: If you got her recently enough that you haven't fed her yet, you shouldn't be handling her yet. You should feed her at least once, preferably twice before handling her the first time, and wait 48 hours after feeding to handle her.
Depending on the snake, many can be held multiple times per week. Some are conservative and say only once a week for 15 minutes. Some people allow for more handling than this. But 3-4 times a week for 'extended periods' is almost definitely too much, and as she's new to you, you should be slowly working your way up to longer periods of handling. You also should never be handling her in the 48 hours after she eats.
Shedding: Their color will usually dull and their eyes will turn milky or blue. They might have some minor changes in behavior, like more resistance to handling or possibly even refusal to eat. Mine just shed, and hid for three days prior to that. Note that the shed should come off all in one piece -- if it doesn't, it may be a sign that your snake is dehydrated and doesn't have sufficient access to clean water or the humidity in the tank is too low.
Another quick note on water: You should be changing it at least twice a week, plus any time the snake soils it. I buy filtered spring water from the store, which doesn't have some of the chemicals in tap water that are fine for humans but not so good for snakes. It's kind of a pain in the butt, but it's only about $2 a month, so whatever.
Picture of the setup
Im using a 20 gallon long glass tank with this surrounding the sides and back, its a perfect fit. A day night timer hooked to a non heated light. I dont use heating that sucks the humidity out of the air by using a heat pad for both hides regulated by thermostats one for each pad. Substrate I use is coconut husk, this one lasted me a whole year and people say it wont mold as easily compared to other non coconut fiber substrates. The tank itself uses a screened sliding locked lid. I cant speak for how to lock down other types of lids for tanks. The screen however I covered most of it with 3 layers of foil followed by tape around the edges of the foil to keep it attached and sealed better to the screen. A hole for the non heated light was made and I used a cut up piece of a zipblock bag along with tape to cover over the hole for humidity reasons. Finally the hides are medium sized from reptile basics, I remember when he could easily fit in the small one, was such a tiny noodle and of course a simple plastic water dish big enough to soak in and aid in humidity.
For times when he is in shed though, I lightly spray down the substrate and sides and back of the tank once a day. I think just spraying the glass walls and keeping that large surface area wet is good enough though.
Other items include thermometer, fake plants, gram scale, and one ball python
Looks like a pretty good start there.
Pots: If just doing one plant I used something like this that filled my case perfectly and just wrapped it in aluminum tape
Soil: Fox Farms Ocean Forest is recommended alot around here and you can buy small bags
Nutrients: There is a plethora of nutrients you can use from GO Box to Botanicare to General Hydroponics and many many many many more. With almost as many methods.
Edit: Also case wise that mid tower is going to be too small, you will definately want to go for a full tower. Something like this
EditEdit: Here is something to power your fans with no DIY
Or Splice this onto you fans
Get some of this stuff:
https://www.amazon.com/advion-Plungers-Cockroach-Insecticide-Australian/dp/B00730QW70/
​
Lay it down, just in pea sized amounts on a piece of paper and place it under your sink and/or in the corners of your kitchen. If you have roaches, they will come out and be obliterated within a couple of weeks. I just moved into a new apartment on 145th and I am doing this just a precaution - my last apartment was a 5th floor walkup (im in a 6th floor now) and we ended up getting a small infestation when they started doing construction on the apartment below us.
Here is my current (year-round) setup! I moved into a new apartment with only north and west facing windows, and nothing was getting enough light. So recently I upgraded my setup.
I have the lights on for about 12 hours a day.
I used to have a clamp lamp with CFL, and that worked for a bit, but I was trying to squeeze too many plants under it so they started to get etiolated. In comparison, these lights are amazing. You can see that some of the plants were etiolated but are now growing compactly!
Sure! They're 10x10inch (11x11?) 45w panels that run off a regular 110 outlet. They do not have an on/off switch, but if I put my plants outside I just unplug them from the timer and there hasn't been a problem. I don't believe these are waterproof so beware if you plan to use on a porch or in a green house.
Hmmm what else.... I have them about 6 inches from the top of most my plants (I actually used my Lola to measure from). The only plant I have propped up closer to the lights is my aeonium kiwi because I want to see if she'll develop the pink outline on her leaves if she's closer. They don't get super hot, but they do get warm, and there has been very little impact on the electric bill (I run them 12 hours a day on a timer). Let me know if you have any more questions I didn't cover!
here you go!
Pm me your mailing address and email and I will send you the 8 photoperiod seeds I have left that /u/effectiveambassador was kind enough to send me last year. Statistically, you should get 4 females from this. (Oddly all the sends he sent me have turned out to be female.)
After that, you are set, as you simply clone your best females going forward. Plants look like this grown in bog-standard potting soil, germinated and vegged under these 5000K bulbs, and flowered under this blurple.
Here's the one I use, just remember to start slowly and then gradually add time. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C68N7PC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C68N7PC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I like these. The bulbs are replaceable and the plug is a traditional plug (rather than a USB into adapter as many are... those wear out very quickly because the adapters are cheap and don't sit in the socket right, but the lights will blow other adapters). I also like that they're white light. When I had the purple bulbs I lost the ability to enjoy my plants as they naturally are because they were always bathing in ugly magenta light.
Still trying to figure out exactly what your prop is. I had the same exact one. Etoliated it the same way before I learned. I can't find the marker for it. I'll keep my eye out next time I'm at the store.
/u/Dodifer this. Buy some Mosquito Dunk Bits, take about 1/8 of a teaspoon and stir it into 1/2 cup of water really well, spread this on the surface of the surface of the soil of any plants you have indoors near the gnat problem. You can spray it on or brush it on, doesn't really matter as long as you get semi-even surface coverage. Reapply 10 days later if you still need to.
The dunk bits are just dried corn bits coated in BTI, a bacteria that goes after gnat and mosquito larva. There's a lot of safety warnings on the bottle but from the articles I've read from an WHO article BTI should be safe to use in drinking water, so it should be safe to use on indoor plants and vegetables.
They lay eggs in the soil, so they multiply rapidly. I used mosquito dunks when watering the plants, and then when the top layer of soil is dry after a couple of days, I sprayed diatomaceous earth - food grade on the soil liberally. The yellow stickies all around the plants caught the ones which somehow miraculously managed to survive. It took about three weeks to not see any flying around.
Gilmour Cleaning Sprayer Foamaster II Multi-ratio Spray Gun 1609706073 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Y190WE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_C4DdBbD3ZN2TV
It’s on sale right now for the next 4 hours via Amazon. Great for washes and doesn’t require a pressure washer.
I don't know if anyone has told you yet, but you really should remove that nasty stick on thermometer thing you have. Not only is it likely not very accurate, it could fall off completely and get stuck to your snake (not very fun).
I'd definitely recommend going with a nice digital hygrometer like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001BO8CUE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's accurate enough for snakes, and it can take ambient temps on both sides of your enclosure and measure humidity.
Honestly, you can do much better for your money... There are kits in the Starter Shopping Lists to the right on the sidebar.
I was wondering the other day what exactly I would need for a turn-key grow setup, and put the following together. Mind you, this is not TOP of the line shit, but it will absolutely get you into the hobby!
600W Tube / Timer / MH & HPS Bulbs / Hangars / Ballast - $157.50
6 Inch Carbon Filter / 440CFM Fan - $149.75
25 Ft. 6 Inch Ducting - $19.10
48 x 48 x 78 Tent - $139.99
FFOF - $18.99
General Hydroponics Go Box Starter Kit - $35.95
CALIBER IV DIGITAL HYGROMETER - $19.23
Smart Pot Container - Pack of Five - $20.65
Micro-Tip Pruning Snip - $10.19
Light Duty Soft Wire Tie - $7.84
PH & Temperature Meter - $79.95
Water Quality TDS Tester - $15.59
LED Handheld Microscope - $16.81
Total just under 700$ and you are getting a LOT more for your money.
Don't blindly take that list, shop around, deal hunt, and do the research! There are many hidden costs associated with growing ><
ill look that stuff up. this is what i bought btw https://www.amazon.com/advion-Plungers-Cockroach-Insecticide-Australian/dp/B00730QW70
every review ive seen says its the best stuff you can get.
That is some serious devotion to curing meat!
Another reddit user turned me on to this product for cold-smoking:
https://www.amazon.com/A-MAZE-N-AMNPS5X8-Pellet-Smoker/dp/B007ROPJ1M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1512064297&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=amaze+smoker
I have successfully cold-smoked a lot of sausage in a cold smoker made out of a large carboard box. I just sit this thing in a metal tray and light it up. Since it just smoulders, it produces almost no heat. I'll bet you could put this inside an unlit green egg to make a cold smoker.
If you have seen a couple, there's an infestation. It may not be bad, but if you're seeing a few roaches during the day, there are going to be many more coming out at night.
Cimexa is generally better than boric acid. It lasts longer, naturally dries itself out, and is less toxic to pets than boric acid. Spray it in the cracks of your walls, baseboards, and under large appliances.
Advion gel bait is highly cited around here to be a godsend in culling live nymphs and adults. Cockroaches are opportunistic eaters; it's better to place several small dots around common walkways (along baseboards & sources of water) than larger, but fewer dollops.
An IGR, like Gentrol, will help with long-term prevention. It prevents nymphs from reaching sexual maturity and can stop eggs from hatching. It doesn't do anything for adults though, so you'll need the Advion to knock those fuckers out.
The most important thing is to change your behaviors. Don't leave trash in the apartment overnight, dry out sinks/sources of water overnight, keep food sealed, etc...
Well, you aren't wrong, just a little skewed on the numbers. Peppers, like pretty much any plant, requires 12 to 18 hours of light a day when indoors. for a single pepper plant you may be able to get away with a shop light. This may be in bad taste, but this is a great option. For tomatoes I'd suggest something similar but in 4ft. Professional indoor HID (High Intensity Discharge) setups will run at the multi thousand watt levels, but most people looking for fresh veggies year around can do with far less. It also makes everything like grow/rest hours, heat, humidity, soil nutrient levels, you name it, way easier to manage.
I actually just finished going through all of this.
1b) I have 2 vent fans installed in my roof, and it does wonders on a hot night. Set one to blow in, and the other to blow out, and you'll get some great airflow. Humidity is another story though. Even with the two fans humidity can be rough, but at least its something.
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If you are worried about solar being too expensive, it really isnt. You can get a full 100 watt solar panel kit for $118. That give you all the wiring, a panel, and a charge controller all at once. Then all you need are batteries, which you can get a set of 4 for $250. You don't need those specifically, but just make sure whatever batteries you get, you make sure they are DEEP CYCLE batteries, and not starter batteries.
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Hope this helps! If you have any other questions, feel free to ask, and I'll be glad to help. Anything to help another vandweller so they don't have to go through all the hell I did trying to figure it all out myself. lol
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ok lets start off with correcting your requirements..
Phone 3.24Ah x 3.7v = 12Wh
Laptop = 42 Wh (per spec sheet)
Fan .5Ah x 12v = 6Wh/hour of run time
LEDs 0.8Ah x 4.5v = 3.6Ah (assuming 3 batteries)
With 7 hours of run time on that fan lets call that an even 100Wh/day that you will need to generate which that panel should be able to crank out in about 1 hour of direct sunlight if it was perfect with no loss anywhere so plan for 2 hours and you will be very safe if you never have a cloudy day without charging.
In theory a 20Ah 12v battery will meet your needs based on your stated design with only a 50% discharge. (less if you recharge the laptop while the sun is out)
My suggestions:
Use this panel kit instead https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BFCNFRM/ . Same rated output but the mounting kit saves some headache and gives flexibility on the charger about what kind of batteries it can feed.
For batteries I would highly recommend looking at a pair of 35Ah 6v golf cart batteries run in series.
For lighting just get some 12v LEDs and run the straight off the battery and don't mess around with AAA batteries.
Extra note - Any time you are charging something else there is a voltage change and you are going to lose some energy in the step up/down transformers or inverters that can be as horrible as 20% loss. Just keep this in mind when doing calculations.
These heat mats are meant to be used with a device which monitors the temperature and then controlls the amount of current running through them. Like this.
That being said, it shouldn't get to the point where it's melting itself.
Those lights are honestly more novelty than anything else, the third one is the least-bad of the 3 but it's kind of a waste to spend $27 on four 5W bulbs that also need fixtures when a 130W panel with the same purple LEDs costs $70.
Even these ~30W panels would be a better value than any of those, though I wouldn't recommend them either:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01F53LP46
I have those exact same lights. They work great for my tropicals and my girlfriends house plants.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C68N7PC/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_g4xODbHR7604Z
Of course! It's this one. Only downside is it doesn't have a built-in timer, but that's easy enough to remedy.
For a tent that small, I think you'd be better off with an HLG 100 v2 3000k (the same light is available at Amazon). The Viparspectra light is cheaper, but that's about the only thing it has going for it.
I don't have that light, but I use the next size up (an HLG QB288v2 3000k) in my 2x2x5.5' tent, and I've been very happy with it. I had a Viparspcetra 450W, but it stopped working after 10 days so I returned it. The QBs seem significantly better made, have a better light spectrum (and the purple light felt very harsh to my eyes), and only use like 2/3 as much electricity for similar amounts of usable light.
Also, the white light spectrum from the QB lights means that you can use a cheap lux meter to get your light position dialed in. That won't work with the purple light spectrum, you'd need a much more expensive PAR meter.
If you're growing in a tiny space, r/SpaceBuckets also has good info about light, airflow, and so on.
Well placed yellow sticky traps (horizontal near the soil surface and edge of plant pot) are good to quickly reduce the adult fungus gnats.
Mosquito dunks can be mixed into the water to inoculate the soil with beneficial bacteria that kills the larvae.
i just got this http://www.amazon.com/Gilmour-95QGFMR-Foamaster-Cleaning-Sprayer/dp/B000Y190WE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1382638883&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=gilmour+foam+gun
i personally love it. i just go out and foam things down for the fun of it.
Many store offer catch-and-release live trap such as this one...
https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Mouse-Trap-Humane-Mousetrap/dp/B000YFA7HW
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Once they're caught, you want to take them AT LEAST a mile away from your home before releasing them. Also, if you have any more questions, try over at r/pestcontrol
This wouldn't work, mice are too smart. You might catch 1 but the rest will know to stay away after that. Have to be careful about putting human scent on the bait too, they'll know somethings up.
I've used this and this to good effect, but you'll have to move the trap after catching 1 or 2.
Really, catching or killing them isn't effective, you're better off removing any incentive for them to be there and then making it inhospitable for them. Peppermint oil worked for me.
Without a doubt it is my Counterpressure Bottle Filler. I hate bottling, and almost exclusively Keg these days. However, sometimes A beer turns out so well I want to either save a couple bottles for later, or bring it to people who won't be drinking it quickly enough for a growler to be reasonable. Option one was to bottle while kegging and bottle condition. The problems with this involve A) Not knowing if your beer is great yet, possibly wasting time. B) Having to clean the bottles and bottling equipment along with kegging equipment, adding time. C) Having trube build up during bottle conditioning, contributing to off flavors for long aging. D) unavoidable high DO / Oxygen levels in the bottles, also causing oxidization and other off flavors after long periods of sitting. The counter pressure filler allows me to bottle beers directly from a carbonated keg. The bottles are cold and carbonated immediately. But more importantly, allowing you to cap on foam like at most craft breweries, you can insure very low DO levels. Combined with the lack of trub, your bottles are likely to age very well for archival purposes. And for people asking, whats the best reason to save a good beer? Well, if you are trying to perfect a recipe, being able to sample the last several batches with your current one together really helps point out what your method changes do to your beer quality.
Another important purchase from the last few months is a combo of these two items: Faucet line Jumper and Submersible Pump. I use these in combination to clean my beer lines. I have a twin faucet tower kegerator. I keep two kegs on, and when they both cash, i clean my lines. I disconnect the line from my first keg, and attach it to this submersible pump, which is sitting in a gallon of caustic liquid line cleaner (from five star, but PBW would work too). I use the Faucet jumper to connect the ends of both faucets, and I disconnect the line from keg 2, and have it dump back into the bucket. What i have created is a recirculation that I let run for 30 minutes. It doesn't need to be supervised. This is so much better than how I used to do it, which was using a squeeze bottle and doing one faucet at a time. It took forever, and required me to be there. This new solution allows me to walk away and let it do its thing. Furthermore, I also use this time to defrost my kegerator if it needs it.
Edit: I would like to add that I think this might be the most interesting and useful post on this sub in a long time, good job OP. I have spent quite a lot of time googling other peoples purchases, some I haven't heard of, and am planning some purchases.
You're in luck. I bought the 396gph ecoplus pump just a few weeks ago, for exactly the same purpose. It's been used twice now with my immersion chiller, and has the perfect flow rate.
In Houston, ground water is over 80 degrees right now. An IC simply can't get things below 100. So I run regular hose water through until I get below 110 (about 8 minutes if I keep the wort constantly moving). Then I switch the hookup to that pump sitting in ice water, and another 8 - 10 minutes gets me to 70 degrees. Best $22 spent.
Notes:
1- The pump has a 1/2 inch female output, and a handful of different size hose barbs, none of which are useful. I went to a hardware store, and got a connector to go from that to a male hose receiver for a few dollars.
2- Yes, you could use this to save water by recirculating. However, as your source water heats up, you get less efficient. (Unless you had like a swimming pool or something to draw from)
3- It works fine lifting from ground level, but it works even better if you can raise it to an even level. I have my kettle on the propane burner, so my ice chest (with water and pump inside) sits on a chair.
4- If you can avoid it, don't waste your money on corner store ice. It's insanely over-priced. There's a "Twice the Ice" vendor by my house that sells 20lbs for $1.75. This suffices for the day.
Ask any other questions you have.
Ok. he needs a basking spot of 85f in order to digest properly. His cool side temps should be between 70-75F. He should have two snug fitting hides, one on each end, and a decent sized water dish. Aspen is the best bedding for them. Amazon has a reallly good digital thermometer/hygrometer combo that I use in all my tanks, it's this one. does the tank have any sort of heating at all?
Probably this,
For veg/clones you should be using 6500k lights or T5 lights, not 2700k. 2700k is for flowering.
That soil says "feeds up to 4 months". In general, you don't want soil with built-in fertilizer. Get the FF soil and some perlite. You're going to want 25-40% of the mix to be perlite.
Don't use Miracle Grow. Go with Fox Farms Trio or GH GO Box. If you really want to save money on nutes (you don't), grab some fish fertilizer ($8 at Home Depot) for veg and Morebloom ($6 at Home Depot) for flowering. If you go with the cheap nutrient options, it'll show, but it's better than nothing.
HID isn't complicated. You don't need to be smart to set it up. A system like this comes with everything you need. Any real light system (including LED) is going to require ventilation (inline fan and duct).
Good luck! Keep us updated.
Get this and they'll be gone in a day. Seriously.
advion 4 Tubes and 4 Plungers Cockroach German Roach Pest Control Insecticide Bait Gel, Kill German, American, Australian, Smoky, Brown https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00730QW70/
Search YouTube and you'll see every single person says it's the best and really works.
When we moved into our condo we had a slight issue with roaches, i think from an adjacent unoccupied unit. Saw a half dozen or so first week.
We put this stuff all around inside and outside our building. Killed almost all of them. Reapplied in a few months and didn't see another one again for over a year.
Every few years now if we see even one in the spring/summer, we reapply and never have real issues.
I straight up love my masterbuilt electric smoker. I started with a drum grill, moved up to a water smoker and finally upgraded to a masterbuilt 40. I gotta say, I'm never going back. I mean there's a certain primal enjoyment that comes from charcoal but electric is so much easier and more precise. No dumping ash everywhere, no wearing a thick cloud of smoke every time I tend to it, warms up quickly, the built in meat thermometer is great for larger items, the remote with temp and time display comes in handy, the insane amount of room for food (seriously I can fit like two turkeys in there and still have room for ribs). Lets not forget cleanup, stainless steel racks and water tray that can go straight from smoker to dishwasher. And should you ever feel that you don't get the smoke you want, they make sweet little pellet trays that fit right next to the heating element.
Okay, I'm going to try and keep it manageable.
If you live in an apartment, you need to tell the super if only because you risk them going into other places and reinfesting.
There are kits you can buy, though just be sure anything you buy also has a sprayer of some kind if it's mixed
If a kit doesn't have encasements you should order those on amazon.
That said, here are some steps:
Wash and machine dry everything you own, and put them in these or these. Don't be stingy on this, buy 2-3 of them. Make outfits for work and home and organize them bag by bag. Lets call this 25 dollars.
Do this with your linens, pillow cases, and pillows. If your bedsheets are not light colored and plain, then buy some light colored plain ones. White is good, a little off white is best as nymphs can appear white if they haven't eaten, eggs too. Wash your linens every 4 days or so.
Buy mattress encasements for your bed AND your box spring. Measure both to make sure you don't buy one that's too big, the snugger the fit the better. Do not go too cheap on this, look at the reviews. A good one will have not only a zipper but a folding flap to secure it. Lets call this 60 bucks. Once on, never remove the encasement without a PCO telling you to. Do not try to make your own, it never works out well. Important note, do NOT under any circumstance have any kind of bed skirt or blanket that's so large it touches the floor easily. You're going to want to make it so the bugs have to crawl up the legs so they die on the cimexa.
If you do not have an iron/steel bed frame, I recommend getting the cheapest one you can find.
Clean everything off the floor, make sure no furniture is touching any other furniture or the wall. If you can't do that, you need to lose some stuff. Believe me it's worth it.
Vacuum daily if you can, and immediately toss out whatever you vacuum up in whatever trash is outside. Do not keep it inside. I wouldn't recommend vacuuming less than every other day. Vacuum early in the morning if at all possible.
Buy interceptors. These babies are pricey unfortunately. but a 12 pack should be good for a bed and something else. That's about 40. Make sure whatever bed post you have will fit in them, they're not the widest.
Buy two cans of bedlam plus. Spray it along each joint and crevice in all the furniture after you've emptied it out. Do not use over the counter sprays, they're almost always things bed bugs are already resistant to.
Buy two bottles of Cimexa and a bellows. Apply the cimexa on the perimeter of every piece of furniture that is on the floor as well as along the wall of the room. Unscrew every outlet and switch cover and put it there as well. Don't go overboard, less is more. This will be about 40 total for the set. I recommend spraying the legs of your chairs. Make sure to cover your face while you're doing this. Cimexa will kill them if they crawl over it, however if it's clumped up in big piles they'll walk around it because they don't like it.
Do NOT switch where you sleep. They'll follow you and spread to other parts of where you live. You're live bait. It sucks, but having them come to where you're sleeping is the best way to kill them. You want them feeling safe and secure as they walk over the poisons and cimexa you've laid out.
You'll be living out of bags for a long long time, so get used to it. I recommend scheduling something you enjoy every week to keep your sanity and have something to look forward to.
Whatever you do, do NOT buy a bed bug bomb. It will scatter them and make them harder to clear.
Nothing goes on the bed unless it's sterile, and nothing leaves the bed without being washed and dried ASAP.
I'm not OP but I have a similar setup in my apartment. It's not as nice as OPs but it's working well for me.
I have a floating shelf with a 2 ft T5 light hung above it on an electrical timer. It's hard to see in my picture but it's quite bright. I think it looks pretty nice and allows me to keep a small collection on display (I have the shelf right at eye level).
http://i.imgur.com/29lfZ5X.jpg
VIVOSUN 48"x24"x60" Mylar Hydroponic Grow Tent with Observation Window and Floor Tray for Indoor Plant Growing 2'x4' https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DXYMQ9M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dx13BbGGT8164
VIPARSPECTRA Reflector-Series 300W LED Grow Light Full Spectrum for Indoor Plants Veg and Flower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B4GQ6MO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Hz13BbPVVN2TK
This light is good for 2 plants but you’ll eventually want to add a second for your tent. You definitely can’t fill the tent with just this light, but it’ll get you started.
iPower 2-Pack 1/8 Inch 8-Feet Long Adjustable Heavy Duty Rope Clip Hanger, Reinforced Metal Internal Gears,150lb Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018WIOEDA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wA13Bb58ZJ5GD
Century 7 Day Heavy Duty Digital Programmable Timer - Dual Outlet (Indoor) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MVF16JG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XA13Bb9NQJDG1
Comfort Zone CZ6C 6-Inch 2-Speed Clip-On Fan (White, 2 Fans) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JLUZSPC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.E13Bb05JK7B1
247Garden 5-Pack 3 Gallon Grow Bags/Aeration Fabric Pots w/Handles (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013JM3JAI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VG13Bb7MGJS2R
https://www.oregonsonly.com/samples/
These are great nutrients and basically foolproof. This free sample kit will get you through 4 plants full grows. I love these nutrients and even now use them in a reservoir (which people claim you can’t do but works great).
Dr.meter 0.1pH PH002 High Accuracy pH Meter/pH Pen Tester with ATC LCD 0-14 pH Measurement Range (PH002 pH Meter for Water) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PU0W35K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fI13BbNRES1BK
That will get you started on your first grow or two. I recommend auto blue mystic from nirvana for your first run. They are very low smell while growing so you can get by without a carbon filter. They’re autos so you can leave the light on 24/7, and they finish fast. Also turns out a great finished product.
https://www.nirvanashop.com/marijuana-seeds/815-blue-mystic-autoflower.html
Less than $40 for 5 seeds and very discrete shipping.
When you have a bit more $ you can add on additional items. Eventually you’ll want to upgrade to PFD sun boards or quantum boards, but you’ll probably want to get a fan and filter first:
6" Inline Fan - 395 CFM Exhaust Duct Fan, Built-In Speed Controller, ETL Listed, Pre-Wired 6 FT Grounded Cord - Great Use In Grow Tent With Carbon Filters, Light Fixtures, Intake. Fits 6 Inch Ducts. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L0D0UEQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TM13Bb5170NC1
Activated Charcoal Carbon Filter 6" x 16", Up to 400 CFM, Premium Grow Tent Odor Scrubber, 1.8" Extra Thick Layer of Top Grade Activated Australian Virgin Charcoal-Great for Hydroponics and Growing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M0VN4I5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qN13BbEH9AG9W
Maybe you can upgrade to a 2x4 tray with reservoir so you can automate feeding.
If you don’t want autoflowers you can just do 12/12 from seed for faster harvest. https://www.royalqueenseeds.com/blog-how-to-grow-cannabis-from-seed-under-12-12-lighting-n330
But I really recommend doing the auto blue mystic for your first round or two.
Its a grow tent, vivosun has affordable ones you can check them out on Amazon. I use mine for growing the devils lettuce. Have a good one!
https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Hydroponic-Observation-Window-Growing/dp/B01DXYMQ9M/ref=asc_df_B01DXYMQ9M/?tag=hyprod-20&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=193139379506&amp;hvpos=1o2&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=10332705642358581025&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvqmt=&amp;hvdev=m&amp;hvdvcmdl=&amp;hvlocint=&amp;hvlocphy=9030231&amp;hvtargid=aud-799728744414:pla-311013962850&amp;psc=1
I doubt those lights will do much for your plants. Something like this would be more appropriate: https://www.amazon.com/Phlizon-Thermometer-Humidity-Adjustable-Spectrum/dp/B0752CL6KJ (I'm not endorsing this particular product; it just happened to come up first in my search).
I just started growing my own marijuana. I’d like to get 5 of these at $79.95 each. The total for all 5 of them is $399.75. Is that allowed?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0752CL6KJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fY21Db8AS1FCP
If you don’t win and I do, what can I get for you?
I have the 4 tube agrobrite, and am very happy with it. I will point out that the Home Depot light appears to be T5 (14w per tube), not T5-HO (24w per tube). I also have this fixture, though recently there seems to be a ballast problem that I haven't gotten taken care of yet, but should be covered under warranty. Aside from the issue I'm having now, it has worked great, especially for the price.
Agreed. Renogy's kit is far superior to Harbor Freight: https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Watts-Volts-Monocrystalline-Starter/dp/B00BFCNFRM?ie=UTF8&Version=1&entries=0
I had a similar idea a while ago and the general consensus is that a solar generator, while it seems practical, isn't much more simple than a DIY solar set up, but it is much more expensive.
Heres a simple list I could find that'll give you the same wattage (someone correct me if I'm wrong with this, I'm no electrician):
$185 [100w panel (comes with mounts for your roof)] (http://www.amazon.com/Renogy-100W-Mono-Starter-Kit/dp/B00BFCNFRM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1421722028&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=100w+solar+panel)
$189 [Inverter] (http://www.amazon.com/Cobra-2575-2500-Power-Inverter/dp/B00126K8DA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1421722161&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=5000w+inverter) (the gene you linked is a bit sneaky, saying 5k watts, but thats the peak, not the continuous, so this inveter is the same wattage). Also, the generator produces a modified sine wave. This means the inveter isn't suitable for things like lighting and (so i've heard) isn't good for expensive electronics, [you can do some research on the difference between pure and modified] (http://www.civicsolar.com/resource/pure-sine-vs-modified-sine-wave-inverters). The one I've linked is pure and good for any electronics.
$183 [100 AH sealed AGM deep cycle battery] (http://www.solar-electric.com/batteries-meters-accessories/batteries/unba/unba100amagm.html)
$100 for the extra wire you'll need. You have to get wire for the charge controller to the battery, then from the battery to the inveter, so not too much. The $100 is probably much more than you need.
So in total, thats ~$660 for the same power. You could toss the components into a box and seal it up and make your own generator if you really want to.
Just to add, I thought it'd be cool to see what I could do with the $1000+ the gene costs. For just ~$150 more, you could more than double the system with [these panels] (http://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Solar-Panel-Bundle-200Watt/dp/B00B8L8MD2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1421722532&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=200w+solar+panel), [this inverter] (http://www.amazon.com/Power-Bright-PW6000-12-Inverter-6000/dp/B002EA22YQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1421722161&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=5000w+inverter), and [this battery] (http://www.solar-electric.com/batteries-meters-accessories/batteries/unba/unba200amagm.html).
>Two of these?
Great! Looking forward to seeing your new buddy. :)
So, carpet pythons are a tropical species, and as such do require specific temperature ranges and humidity levels. Ideally, it should be about 33c on the warm side, and 22c on the cool side. Normally, people control temperature with thermostats. You put the temperature probe above the heater, inside the warm side's hide, and set the temperature you want it to maintain. Bam - instant temperature control!
The next thing you'll want to do is invest in a digital thermometer and hygrometer combo, ideally something with probes that you can place around the vivarium. This will let you double check temps and humidity around the viv. Long term, the thermostat can measure the warm side and your thermometer/hygrometer can measure it on the cool side.
For humidity, you should be aiming for like 50% - 80%. The hygrometer part of your thermometer/hygrometer measures the humidity level. Grab yourself a spray bottle, fill it with water, and give the viv a good misting when humidity levels get too low.
I'd recommend googling "carpet python care" and reading the entire first page of results. There's a lot of great information from a number of knowledgeable keepers there, and it'll help you figure out which suggestions are actually good, and which ones don't make sense.
Do you mind if I ask what country you live in? Sounds like it probably isn't the US (where I'm from)
Humidity should be fine for a corn. The heat mat is most likely the issue.
You should have it on an actual thermostat that will regulate it. Off and on doesn't do any good if it still reaches high temps since it only takes a few minutes for a heat mat to heat up to full temp, which can easily be 110-115 or more. Anything over 105 can cause permanent nerve and brain damage due to them not being able to self regulate their body heat. If you turn it off for 15 minutes 6 times a day, that's still 22.5 hours at full temp.
You also need to measure the actual floor, and not just the substrate. If you have an IR thermometer, move the substrate aside and actually measure the temp of the tank surface. Corn snakes will burrow and if you only measure away from the heat mat you'll never get an accurate temp of what the snake could be laying against if it burrows down to it.
There are absolutely FAR better thermostats than this one, but this is not a terrible one to get and dirt cheap. I hot glue the probe to the floor over the hottest part of the heat mat.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E9IO6N0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
here’s the fanny pack! I’ll also add that pretty much everything I own is chartreuse. It’s my jam.
And yes! I have two types of grow lights for my plants.
This onemy plants seem to really love just for the coverage it allows.
And I have two of these on another cabinet that do all right but aren’t as powerful. I like them because they have clips and are usb powered so I can save space on plugs with a dual port brick.
Started germinating seeds Feb. 24th using two 45W LED grow lights and some plastic pots. I encapsulated half of a Costco garage storage shelf and mounted the lights to a 1x6 for easy height adjustment. The plants sit on two seedling heat mats and lights run 16 hours/day. Here is a list and picture of Group C at one week.
I have a bunch of plants so I have a small shelf unit in my room now with four panels hanging above all the plants.
I use a 45W blue and red LED panel. I got them off of amazon! https://www.amazon.com/Roleadro-Panel-Spectrum-Growing-Flowering/dp/B01IVQ96KY
If you're getting serious about keeping plants indoors you might want to invest is some LED lighting. The lights are pretty bright, so you might want to house the plants in a cabinet, a closet, or something with doors/flaps. And for when fungus gnats finally rear their ugly head: 1 part 3% hydrogen peroxide to 4 parts water in dry soil will get rid of them. Enjoy your plants!
I use lunch trays. 12 Pack - Fast Food Tray 10"x14" BLACK from Globe Commercial Products https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G7OMIGG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_rbQkx7k2iTXJ2
And these lights Roleadro Panel Grow Light Series,45W LED Plant Grow Light with Red Blue Spectrum for Growing&Flowering https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IVQ96KY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_lepWHiSeUl8re
I have two of these lights
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01IVQ96KY?psc=1&amp;ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
They are not powerful at all, they meet none of the standards that people recommend. But I’ll be darn if they don’t work just fine. You have to have the light within inches of the plant. I mostly wanted something to prevent stretching since I’m in Ohio and we have very dark days ahead of us. But to my surprise they brought out some cool colors that I hadn’t achieved even after months of being in the sunniest window. I have them hanging under a desk and the plants are on the floor.
It looks desperate for more light, maybe get a light for it like this https://smile.amazon.com/Relassy-Spectrum-Gooseneck-Replaceable-Professional/dp/B07C68N7PC and keep it on it for 8+ hours a day.
Ok well scrog isn’t about height. It’s about square footage.
For example I can get more out of two plants Scogged at about 2 feet high in my 4 x 4 x 7 foot tent than I could out of 4 tall plants.
It’s about using the “footprint” of the light in the most efficient way.
With tall plants you lose that efficiency. Basically the top of the plant is going to get that sweet light and the bottom is not. So further your plant gets from the sweet spot then the less yield you will eventually pull, especially from the bottom of the plant.
Now one way you could circumvent that is placing lights all around the plants. I just saw a cabinet grow with a sort of vertical scrog.
In one of the weed subs. Maybe someone else can chime in here. But they essentially grew around a vertical screen with led strips surrounding the plants.
But in the end the yield wasn’t great.
But you could essentially grow tall skinny plants with a surround of led strips and an led topper.
Personally I say kiss. Keep it simple stupid.
I scrog. I like scrog I get about 6 ounces per plant per harvest so 12 ounces total out of my 4 x 4
It’s the best method I’ve found after dozens of grows and experiments.
I do not recommend blurple amazon leds. At the very least I recommend hps/mh lamps (that use a lot of power and give off a lot of heat so you need a good exhaust)
If you’re going to go led then start with quantum boards or cobs. Like someone else said they at least have resale value if you decide to stop growing. You can’t get $5 for an amazon blurple I promise you. I tried to sell mine on Craigslist for months in a legal state.
They’ll last years and in the end they’ll cost you less money in electricity. But you’re gonna pay more up front.
this is not much more than a blurple and is good for a 2 x 2 foot space.
Money far better spent than $100 blurple. Better yield better light.
If you want to see what I mean about scrogging, check out my grows on grow dairies
Check out a lot of grow styles and methods.
Read growweedeasy.com back to front. Then start over. Read it again. And again. Then again. And then again.
Then reference it during your grow.
Once you decide your grow method. Then pick lights to fit.
Good luck.
the left one
the right one
As you can see, the left one is more yellow while the right one is more white. I was torn between the two and didn’t know which one would be better for the plants so I kept them both 😂
I'd suggest skipping the Mars 300w and saving your money to invest in a Quantum Board LED kit, these 100w kits are $150 on Amazon.
The LED tech in those Mars LEDs are outdated, the Mars 300 would be equivalent to about <~140w draw while outputting 150w HID, whereas this QB kit is closer to true 200w HID output at 96w draw. Compare the QB's lumen output of 15,000+ to the Mars' < 5,000.
Ok I will give tips in the order you presented the info.
>40 gallon tank.
This could be a bit on the large side for your snake so I would start by blacking out the back and sides. You can do this with construction paper, foamcore board, or spray paint if you have someplace else for the snake to live for at least a few days. Pet stores usually sell a scenery backer meant for this. Doing this will make the snake feel less out in the open and thus safer.
>Aspen bedding
I get my aspen bedding from tractor supply in a big bail. You might consider trying coco husk which will help with keeping humidity up.
> 1 hide
I would have 2 identical tight fitting hides (This is how tight they should be)so that your snake can thermo regulate without prioritizing safety.
> 2 branches
Make sure these are secure and won't fall over.
> and a sugar skull for design
Cool.
>Have a UTH because ive heard those are best forglass tanks.
These are great for many setups but you should have temperature controlled. I recommend a thermostat. Here is a cheap one. You should place the probe on the inside against the glass or you can place it under the UTH if you have an infared thermometer to check your glass temp. remember to point the these thermometer directly at the glass from the top straight down. You must shoot perpendicular to the surface you are measuring.
> Havent fed him yet because he was fed before I bought him.
That's good. I would give him a week and offer a rat that is 10% of the snakes weight. If the snake will eat frozen thawed I recommend that. I would feed every 7 to 10 days at that size. I would thaw the rodent in hot (not boiling) water in a ziplock bag until you are sure the rodent is thawed in the center. The ziplock bag is to keep the rodent dry so you can feed in your snakes enclosure. You don't want substrate to stick to the rodent and it will be fine if its dry and you supervise the feeding.
> Whats a good way to control humidity?? Having a hard time keeping it steady.
Try covering most of the screen top. You don't need that much ventilation as your snake won't be soiling its bedding regularly. You will spot clean any problems and so you can get away with much less airflow then with rodents. Here is a tutorial if you want to do it up nice. Adjust how much ventilation you have until you get the right humidity. On that note I like this for a thermostat/hygrometer.
>And should I have a heat lamp ?
I would not use a heat lamp unless you need it to keep a warm side of 90F under the hide and an ambient temp of 80F. A heat lamp will suck humidity out of the air.
wait, your saying i can sniff for acurite things like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001BO8CUE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1?
this would be great, i could better monitor my snakes set up.
Y’all need to get on the Advion Train
I’ve never been more satisfied and disgusted in my life. It creates a roach Holocaust!
I had a roach problem recently, would see at least two a night scurry across the floor. Did some googling and folks swear by Advion roach gel. So I bought some on Amazon:
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.com/advion-Plungers-Cockroach-Insecticide-Australian/dp/B00730QW70/ref=sxts_sxwds-bia?gclid=Cj0KCQjwl8XtBRDAARIsAKfwtxDGxAtO9eq368oI_q84pMgjc5BZ3o6DSTDux1jFDtMxi-54_QgT1AMaAiNUEALw_wcB&hvadid=174250762539&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9028279&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=13904204731268889902&hvtargid=kwd-10507852639&hydadcr=15252_9600101&keywords=advion+roach+gel&pd_rd_i=B00730QW70&pd_rd_r=3a9ad86b-356c-457d-bc36-099e482dc7b0&pd_rd_w=h7mjO&pd_rd_wg=lvOjp&pf_rd_p=a5491838-6a74-484e-8787-eb44c8f3b7ff&pf_rd_r=3FERGZYCA6RTYT0VXVN1&psc=1&qid=1571927326
&#x200B;
Just put a tiny dollop on the baseboard or in a crack around the walls all around the house. It solved my roach problem within a day. I have seen maybe two since, and they are always spazzing out on their way to death, poisoned by the bait. Very satisfied with this stuff.
https://www.amazon.com/A-MAZE-N-AMNPS5X8-Pellet-Smoker/dp/B007ROPJ1M
I use it in my weber smoker but it's incredibly versatile. They have a ton of information on the website. I did a whole day recently cold smoking these sea truffles as well as salt, grains, flour, butter, etc.
I had a terrible fungus gnat problem (caused by using soil I let sit outside) The way I got rid of 99% of them was by using yellow sticky traps, mosquito bits, and DE on the top soil.
I agree with not using H202
Mr. Machine has good points.
Less of a chance to F something up.
And yes, you can get some foam without a HP washer. Use a foam gun, but the foam won't be as thick as using a HP machine with a foam attachment thingy. Search youtube :)
It's great that you care about the dogs and want to make their lives better. How about buying a new dog house, if it wouldn't be overstepping your bounds? You might ask the dog owners in a sweet way whether you can do this for them as a gift. Also, be sure to extend your compassion to the mice. Compassion should be based on what a being experiences, not how cute it is. Besides that, poisons can make their way into the dogs' systems, and cause environmental havoc, etc., etc.
Here's where you can buy some cheap, reusable, humane mouse traps, and a relatively cheap but nice and large dog house (unsure about the size of the dogs we're talking about)
https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Mouse-Trap-Humane-Mousetrap/dp/B000YFA7HW
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000QJ9EU2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1505340335&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=dog+houses+for+large+dogs&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51wrI9CWc2L&amp;ref=plSrch
Used the Masterbuilt electric smoker. Smoked for ~12 hrs. Used this pork rub recipe as a base, with a few modifications (didn't have cumin or mustard seeds). Meat fell apart. Most tender pork I've ever had.
This one does.
I use this pump with this adapter, works great.
Acurite brand thermometers are a good option, especially this one. I would also advise getting an IR temp gun for spot checking. I take it you decided not to go with belly heat for now, so probe placement is going to be: probe attached directly to the basking spot (whatever that may be), body of the thermometer on the cool side. That's how my boa is setup as well.
I would never try to trick a fellow gardener! Hey I sprout other things too, but I use t5 panels, seedlings love it and it's cheap all around, electricity, bulbs...
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009GU4RMC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=AGHGL81LFL69F
One of the best things you can buy. 10,000 lumens is equivalent to full sun.
Yes, but you can get a better deal. This Renogy kit is the same price and includes a 100w panel.
Did more research on solar power. I live in an apartment now, but I am thinking about buiding a kit to experiment with. Possibly with this kit to start with.
The most recommended setup I see from other vandwellers in Renogy. They make pretty much everything you need, and it's competitively priced.
You can buy a kit and have almost everything you need but a battery or you can build from scratch. The big components are deep cycle battery, panel, charge controller. There are obviously lots of other smaller things you'll need as well such as fuses, wires, mounting brackets, etc.
This option is much more cost efficient but also requires a good working knowledge of electrical setups (or the desire to learn them) in order to do it safely.
If you're going to drive a lot each day, then you can charge it using the vehicle alternator by attaching it in parallel with the vehicle battery, but you should use a switch to make sure it's only connected when the vehicle is running (charging) so you don't drain your vehicle battery running electronics in the camper. Many trailer harnesses can't provide enough power for charging like this, so you'd likely need to run your own wire from the vehicle battery.
If you don't drive a lot, you'd probably want a solar panel. Again, this is one where you want to look at how much power each of your electronics are using and estimate how many panels you'd need to keep up with your usage throughout the day and battery size to get you through the night. E.g. you could use a panel and charge controller like this: https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Monocrystalline-Negative-Controller-Connectors/dp/B00BFCNFRM/
Or if you're going to be parked somewhere with a power plug, just use an auto battery charger to keep your battery topped up.
Anyone have this Renogy Solar Kit and use it for amateur radio? Or, if you are a solar guru, how does that kit look features/price wise?
It's just one 100W panel at the moment propped up in the field about 70' from the cabin, it came with a 20' run of the cable and i bought another 50' extension. I've found a good spot for half the year, and then have to move it to another spot for the other half to get decent charging. This is the starter kit i got: http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00BFCNFRM/
I ended up replacing the PWM charge controller with an MPPT which performs much better under lower light conditions, made a huge difference with charging.
Just going to throw my light that I've got since I'm also a first time grower. (Who also happens to have a 2x2 tent.)
Viparspectra 300W LED Has been a great light for me so far, have also seen a lot of others with the same light and eventually they'll add another which is also what I plan on doing.
You do you though! Good luck and happy growing. :)
Sure thing!
I'm using 2 Viparspectra 450w LEDs which equal about ~500w true watt output.
I've got 2 small vornado fans running, 1 above and 1 below the scrog net.
I have a 5 gallon bucket with an AWS-10 automatic watering system hooked up to it. Was pumping about 0.25 gallons of water per plant per day in veg, now it's at ~0.32 gallons per plant per day in flower.
Also got a small exhaust going, but the LEDs don't give off that much heat, so could have done w/out it.
4 different ones.
lights
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C59J8L2
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IVQ96WW
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IVQ96MW
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015FLSOCE
fans
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D8ZC566
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I8Q30SC
clip fan
other stuffs
Frog soil
Smart pots - half 3 gallon half 5 gallon
Advanced nutrients nutrients
hygrometer: https://www.amazon.com/SensorPush-Wireless-Thermometer-Hygrometer-Android/dp/B01AEQ9X9I/
6 inch intake fan from home depot
filter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008NYF8S4
filter fan: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CTM0JF2
strains
1 white widow
1 amnesia haze
2 money bush
2 jack herrer
My grow tent
My light
The light is on a 12/12 cycle, veg only. I have two fans: one that circulates air constantly, and another that periodically replaces the air in the tent with fresh air.
sure. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015FLSOCE/ref=crt_ewc_img_gw_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A1BSXM5KIS5MZE
tent
light comes with hangers... looks complicated to order from alibaba but its not... and 1week delivery. you can also order from HLG in usa or canada but its more expensive. or you could go with a 400w hps from amazon with vented hood, or a 315 cmh.
fan amazing fan (have the 6'' model)
timer with battery built in
filter
temp and humidity
fan
Ontario here too, have you checked amazon? Vivosun has a good selection of tents for an excellent price! Here's the link to their tents, just select one of the 5 sizes -> https://www.amazon.ca/VIVOSUN-Horticulture-Hydroponic-Obeservation-Growing/dp/B01DXYMQ9M/ref=lp_11914446011_1_6?srs=11914446011&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1555178839&amp;sr=8-6
iPower 40-108 Degrees Fahrenheit... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E9IO6N0?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Put it on the bottom, just make sure you have a thermostat like this one, with the probe wherever the gecko will be laying above the heating pad. If you use reptile carpet, put it on top of the reptile carpet. Paper towel? On top of the paper towel. Your gecko will be fine as long as you haven't bent the heating pad and it doesn't have any defects. The thermostat would prevent that area from going over temp anyways.
You've got good advice already - thermostat to safely regulate the cage heat (a cheap one like this works), a cool side hide, a warm side hide, lots of clutter (wood, fake plants, etc.) around the cage so your snake can feel securely "hidden" even while not in a hide, and a hygrometer & thermometer (like this one) so you can keep an eye on the cage temperature and humidity. <- (proper humidity is important for ball pythons so they can shed well and so they don't get dehydrated)
For a retained eyecap you can try the old warm-damp-towel-in-a-pillowcase trick: wet a towel with warm water, squeeze it out so it's not sopping wet, drop it in a pillowcase, add your snake, tie closed, and let your snake slither around in there for 15-30 minutes or so. The warmth, moisture, and gentle friction from the towel can loosen stuck shed.
Edit: fixed the links.
45W LED Grow Light, UNIFUN New Light Plant Bulbs Plant Growing Bulb for Hydroponic Aquatic Indoor Plants https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F53LP46/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9CbxDbE6MEX57
This is the one I use cuz I'm a cheapskate. Full spectrum is a lot better for actual viewing/ photography tho. I think it's about 6 inches from the plants and on for about 12-14 hours. I would check out the overwinter megathread under the about tab for r/succulents for grow light into tho. They are way more helpful :)
I don't think any LED would do and unfortunately the ones I ordered a year ago are no longer available. But I bet you get better bang for your buck now.
I'd be happy to offer a couple humble suggestions if you can answer a couple questions.
Are you fine with the light being purple, or would you rather have white light shining on them? I went with red/blue LEDs but now I kind of wish I had gone with fluorescent lighting to better enjoy my plant's natural beauty.
I'm thinking about expanding my grow area and I'm seriously considering going with fluorescent and putting my "prize" plants there and using the LEDs for cultivation.
TL;DR- You can compare something like this to this
First is $19 and could probably do the job for a couple plants. Second is on sale for $29 and could probably do 3-4 times the area but I'm bad at math.
I don't necesarilly recommend those models specifically, but with the links others have provided and these examples that should give you something of an idea of where to start comparing.
I am using this one. And this is what my set up looks like right now.
South facing windows don't provide even light, you need to rotate the tree to keep them from leaning too heavily. This means they don't get as much light as if they were outside. This means health will be compromised over time.
Grow lights of sufficient power are not ridiculously cheap. I have this one and this one. The first I use for seedlings as it isn't powerful enough to provide enough light to developed tree. The second I use seasonally if it gets too cold as I don't have room for a greenhouse.
You may be able to find cheaper used equipment, especially older stuff like CCFLs and MH/HPS. But those have a whole host of problems from heat management to spectrum and intensity issues.
Depending on where you keep the light, you may also need to worry about temperature and humidity. I use a small grow tent to help control both temp and humidity, but this also adds additional expense.
All this, just to mimic conditions that are generally readily available outside.
> Never said it was just as viable either but to deny like everyone preaches in this sub, it is what then?
You originally said
> you will come across many people who have grown years or decades indoor. It's an elitist opinion that it can only be outdoor.
This presents a view of indoor and outdoor as a choice of little consequence. aka they are equally viable.
> Moreover, stop referencing horticulturists unless you can quote one chiming in on the topic of bonsai, else that's just talk.
fine, here's a bonsai professional with a degree in horticulture:
> So there are clients that have found situations where they’re capable of cultivating these indoors, but it’s an extremely challenging thing to do. We also end up potentially designing the space in which their trees are held.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01F53LP46?psc=1&amp;ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title
What will you be putting in there? If it's mostly high light species you probably don't want to cheap out too much on light, but if you have a mix or mostly intermediate to low light you can probably get away with cheaper and fewer fixtures.
I have a few of these led panels, which are strong enough to tan a cattleya at a close range and could also cover a very wide area at a further distance for lower light plants. My oldest ones have been running daily for a little over a year and no issues so far, so hopefully they'll last a good long time. You could probably use one of these on each side at an angle so that the front of each shelf gets some direct light and arrange your plants closest by ordered of light requirements.
I also have some areas where I supplement light with a setup of cords---socket splitters---and smaller sized grow bulbs that I can swivel to target a wider or narrower area.
One more tip that I haven't tried with orchids but might be worth a shot in a setup like this, you could line the walls with foil or something reflective to help bounce light to the back sides of the shelves and have less spillover "going to waste". I've only ever done this with seedlings for my garden but it seemed to help.
Amazon is having a flash sale on these. But it ends in an hour. I don't know anything about grow lights but they're well reviewed and 20 bucks seems cheap.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01IVQ96KY/ref=gwm_tlc_pi?pf_rd_p=62af779f-88df-4dd0-be50-91c6a4b9661a&amp;pf_rd_s=grid-6&amp;pf_rd_t=Gateway&amp;pf_rd_i=mobile&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_r=7PZSJ9HA0YW0X1JV4C9G&amp;pf_rd_r=7PZSJ9HA0YW0X1JV4C9G&amp;pf_rd_p=62af779f-88df-4dd0-be50-91c6a4b9661a
This is from 6 plants. Initially grown indoors but put outdoor to flower, rainy fall made for quite a bit of bud rot. I’d say about a quarter of the yield was lost. The light I use is the Phlizon 600W LED Plant Grow Light. I think two of them may be overkill for a 4x4 but can’t hurt.
I start them off in DWC, create a nebula manifold and once the root system is sufficiently large I transfer them to a mix of my own compost, along with topsoil and mulch. 7 gal pots.
I have another group (genetic clones of the ones jarred) that is still under grow the lights, going to yield much larger than the outdoor even without considering grow lights.
https://www.amazon.com/TopoLite-Multiple-Hydroponic-Growing-Plastic/dp/B074J876KK
and
https://www.amazon.com/Horticulture-Lighting-Group-High-Efficiency-Upgraded/dp/B07C59J8L2
and you're doing way better, the other things there are all at or under $10, so when you do the math, you've spent $20 more than this kit, but you got a better, brighter, cooler, more efficient light.
Do yourself a favor and return that and get 2 of these Horticulture Lighting Group HLG 100 V2 3000K Quantum Boards. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C59J8L2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7S6qDbN0E9JY1
https://growerslights.com/products/horticulture-lighting-group-260-watt-quantum-board-led-kit
Would be ideal for a 3x3. It would definitely be worth it
You could also get one of these:
Horticulture Lighting Group HLG 100 V2 3000K Quantum Board LED Grow Light Veg & Bloom | Version 2 High-Efficiency Upgraded LM301B LED's https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C59J8L2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4rBqDbSBZBDJY
Then buy another when you start to flower
For some reason the link above didn't work for me. I think this is what was being linked to.
https://www.amazon.com/Relassy-Spectrum-Gooseneck-Replaceable-Professional/dp/B07C68N7PC/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8
hlg 100 3k
This is the one I’m using now. It’s softer and more natural than the other grow lights I’ve tried. My house looks less like a club/grow house now, and it was only around $30.
You can get a small QB for a small space ~150usd
Horticulture Lighting Group HLG 100 V2 Quantum Board LED Grow Lamp Veg & Bloom 3000K https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C59J8L2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.tcACbR8SPV41
I hate the purple glare of most LED grow lights, to me it ruins the aesthetic of my pretty plants. I think that far north, being too close to the window might be a little risky depending on the plant, some are cold tolerant, some are not. I have a couple smaller setups like on tables and my mantle where I use a little double headed white LED grow light from Amazon. These are the ones I have:
LED Grow Light for Indoor Plant, Relassy 45W Sunlike Full Spectrum Grow Lamp, Dual Head Gooseneck Plant Ligh with Replaceable Bulb,Double Switch, Professional for Seedling Growing Blooming Fruiting https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C68N7PC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qArSBbGAK8ZMQ
They're pretty small and easy to move around lol I'll shove plants in every single nook and cranny possible and these are perfect for that. The bummer about having these scattered about is that you have to do a little marathon twice a day flipping them all on and off as opposed to one big rack setup.
Oh I've got you covered!
I made a detailed comment a few months ago summarizing and reviewing all the LED grow lights I have used - many of which are white and won't mess with your decor (I too don't like the prospect of living in a Disco).
To summarize the post in case it is TLDR, here are my two favorite white-colored grow lights. Both of which I think could work well in your space.
&#x200B;
Here is my favorite bulb type light
And here is my favorite goose-neck style lamp(It could work well for your plants on the shelf)
I love looking at this echeveria.
Though, I noticed that the leaves are not as dense as what I see on other photos.
I'm using a grow light, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C68N7PC/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
because my apartment gets too little sunlight.
should I try to give more lights ?
BTI is a bacteria that is harmless to humans, animals, and plants but that kills mosquito and fungas gnat larva. I ended up with a bad fungus gnat infestation and other remedies were not helping. This is the only stuff that's helped. you sprinkle the pellets on the soil in the pots and water normally. I'm not sure what other mites or larva you could have. It sounds like fungus gnats though. They look similar to fruit flies but don't have any red on them. The gnats are harmless but the larva in the soil sometime eat the roots. Plus they're just kinda unsanitary. I hate them, it didn't take long for them to get out of control.
If you have plants that retain water or things you can't dump on a regular basis: mosquito bits
I have one like this.
Just use it as a presoak as you do the wheels, for instance. Then rinse and commence with the normal 2 bucket method. Any chance to minimize rubbing dirt around with a mitt is worth it.
I think what you're looking for is a foam gun. You can get one on Amazon for ~$40
http://www.amazon.com/Gilmour-95QGFMR-Foamaster-Cleaning-Sprayer/dp/B000Y190WE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1410910175&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=foam+gun
I thought about getting this before I even had a pressure washer. Gets the job done, but definitely not as good
Or something like this. (Gilmour Foamaster II Cleaning Sprayer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Y190WE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_VF9VzbB9AC6S2).
I also think pressure washers are a pain in the ass if you just quickly want to wash your car.
A Gilmour Foamaster II Cleaning Sprayer could work, but you won't get as much suds/foam.
I would never consider a sticky trap a humane trap.
I was talking about traps like these.
Either way new mice are going to replace the ones that are killed or relocated, so I'm an advocate of prevention techniques such as the ones listed on the humane society website.
If you're looking for humane options, there are cheap mousetraps with one-way doors that will allow you to capture chipmunks and relocate them a few miles away.
http://www.amazon.com/Mice-Cube-Pk-Reusable-Humane/dp/B000WB13QC/
or
http://www.amazon.com/Smart-Mouse-Trap-Humane-Mousetrap/dp/B000YFA7HW
Put some peanutbutter for bait.
There are humane mouse traps . Just make sure you release the mice farther away so they don’t just come back in.
I've had great success with this humane trap
Your trap can be pretty cruel as well, though not to level of the absolute torture of glue traps. These traps work really well:
http://www.amazon.com/Smart-Mouse-Trap-Humane-Mousetrap/dp/B000YFA7HW/ref=cm_cr_dp_asin_lnk
Smart Mouse Trap - Humane Mousetrap
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000YFA7HW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_P8UKwb2CBJXMN
This is 13$, reusable, and doesn't kill animals in a terrible way.
This is the one we are getting for now and this is what we will be getting next time we see one.. :)
I have one and I run it off my garage circuit. I also have a freezer hooked into the same outlet and use an extension cord. The house is 40 years old. I don't have any issues getting it up to its max 275 when the air temp is in the 20s. (http://imgur.com/a/bPPI1) The walls are slightly insulated. I would say you probably had a bad unit.
This is the one I have https://www.amazon.com/Masterbuilt-20070910-30-Inch-Electric-Controller/dp/B00104WRCY
I am on the research phase for my first smoker as well. This electric one on Amazon is super well reviewed. I am curious what the folks here think.
Masterbuilt 20070910 30-Inch Black Electric Digital Smoker, Top Controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00104WRCY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_IaZFxb1FT7XY3
This one
I have really enjoyed my Masterbuilt Electric Smoker. Just be careful buying something like this if he hasn't talked about specific brands/methods of cooking. You don't want to spend a ton of time/money/effort buying something different than he was planning on using.
I got my husband this smoker for Christmas a couple years ago, and he LOVES it. I also got him a "Project Smoke" cookbook with it, and he's made all kinds of things: wings, jerky, a Christmas turkey, ham, pulled pork, ribs, etc. Now, this is a guy who usually won't cook at all, like the most he's willing to do in the kitchen is heat up leftovers for himself. But he loves using the smoker. I think it has more than paid for itself in his enjoyment of it.
Masterbuilt 20070910 30-Inch Black Electric Digital Smoker, Top Controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00104WRCY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wI36Ab34QE4FJ
I've got the a Masterbuilt 30'' Electric Smoker and I really like it. It's got a range of 150 to 275 degrees. Operates on a standard 110 volt outlet. Takes regular wood chips.
I really like the ability to set it up and walk away from it for hours. Electric is definitely one of the easiest ways to smoke.
I've heard of people doing this and some shop, I think Williams Brewing, actually sells this as kind of a kit. I think the most commonly used / most economical are the "EcoPlus" pumps. You can get them for about $25 on Amazon.
I use this cheap little pump for a ton of stuff in the brewery
my only gripe is that it did not come with a 3/8ths barb, other than that, super useful for cleaning kegs, draftlines, post brew day cleanup and recircing ice water through my IC.
Looks awesome and love the built in spool but can't get a sense of size. I use this pump and it works pretty well:
EcoPlus 728310 Eco 396 Submersible Pump, 396GPH https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0018X2XT4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_bQP1GqSuczqht
Reposting the famous u/ _ataraxia info:
Glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. It's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.
Start small. It'll save you money, let you get your feet wet, and help you learn how to grow better, and then you can buy bigger.
My "starter package" is:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SWGYYWO
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I4NY8KW
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F8ZQYHA
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098R0600
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Q2ER5C/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006NGI8VS
https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Pots-5-Gallon-Soft-Sided-Container/dp/B002JUOWB2
https://www.amazon.com/FoxFarm-FX14053-12-Quart-Organic-Potting/dp/B001I49Q98
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Garden-Treasures-15-31-in-Rust-Plastic-Plant-Saucer/50445000
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004PS4B08
So for about $420 (heh), you can get your foot in the door and start growing. This is a nice setup too, you can probably save $100 by shopping around, buying used, or doing-it-yourself. I've left off a few odds and ends like dryer duct, Fiskers for trimming, weed fabric pins for low-stress training, pitcher for watering, Mason jars for storage, but you can likely find those or suitable replacements around the house without spending money.
I also have a Raspberry Pi 3 ($43) with Sense Hat ($37) and metal case ($15) in each of my grow tents to log temperature/humidity and other things. I'm interested in eventually using the GPIO functionality to water my plants too. Not critical, but definitely a nice thing to have, especially if you're the hacker type. If you go this route, you might look at raspiviv.com too.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C6FFNY4
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014HDG74S
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0722L338Q
I'm glad I bought a good intro setup because I still use it now that I've upgraded. I now have a 3' x 3' GG Shorty tent with HLG 300 LED for flower, a 2' x 2.5' GG Shorty tent with two 400W Roleadro COB's for veg, and my "intro package" is now my germination/cloning tent (and drying tent too since several people suggested that too). Being able to have three tents (germination -> veg -> flower) working simultaneously is increasing my output quite sharply. I'm doing this to help a relative with cancer, so you may not need to go quite as crazy as I did.
You mentioned using 35+ gs (~1.25 oz) a month. You probably aren't going to be able to grow that much given the constraints of tent size and light wattage (plus being a first-time grower! You'll learn a lot!). So once you get used to it, you'll probably want to buy more stuff. Marijuana isn't addictive, but growing marijuana absolutely is.
Once you've got your hardware, the variable cost is seed (~$10), soil (~$5), nutrients (~$20), and electricity (~$30). From that, I'm going to estimate you can grow ~1.5 ozs (you can do more as you learn more though). So you're looking at ~$40/oz after you've made the initial hardware investment.
Hope this helps. Depression, cancer, and everything else can just go suck it.
The problem with all-in-one fertilizers is that they are usually too high in nitrogen for late flowering. I would use, at a minimum, two nutrient types, one nutrient type for veg, then another for flower that is lower in nitrogen and higher in pk. It's useful to have multiple fertilizers to help pinpoint your plants exact needs as well. I've used the GH GO Box then switched to their Flora Series and also bought some diamond nectar as well (because the GO BOX nutes aren't all suitable for coco)
Humic acid does wonders for soil and soilless applications. The GO box comes with Diamond Black which is humic acid for soil.
I would recommend the GO Box for anyone wanting to use 'organic' fertilizers (disclaimer: might not be considered ''organic' by everyone's definition of 'organic'), which, according to GH, don't have to be PH adjusted. But I use the Flora series now and love it, but it is a chemical fert and needs to be PH adjusted before feeding.
General Hydroponics General Organics Go Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004PS4B08/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_Gpd5IZEMcBVdw
Had some fun with LST the other day and can't wait to work on the plants some more. I really love how quickly the plants bounce back from the training. I included some more details in the pics regarding what I believe to be a calcium deficiency. Plants were fed with 1/4 strength nutes for the first time last watering. I also sprayed both plants with neem oil as a preventative measure last night.
INFO
Plants: (1) Feminized Barney's Farm Vanilla Kush & (1) Feminized DNA Genetics Tangilope.
Tent: 3'x3'x6' Apollo Tent
Light: iPower 600w closed hood currently running at 100% power 15" away.
Fan: 440CFM exhaust fan
Carbon Scrubber: 6"x16" phresh filter
Soil: 3/4 roots organics & 1/4 big & chunky perlite
Nutes: General Organics GO Box 1 feeding of 1/4 strength calmag and grow veg last watering
Pots: RR > solo cup > 2gal smart pot (currently) > 7gal smart pot
This shizz:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00730QW70/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Lq7qDbPSM640Z
I used this stuff and it worked extremely well. Woke up the next day with 50+ german cockroaches slowly dying and eating each other. The bait paralyzes them and makes them shed; other roaches then eat the dying ones and they get poisoned as well.
advion 4 Tubes and 4 Plungers Cockroach German Roach Pest Control Insecticide Bait Gel, Kill German, American, Australian, Smoky, Brown https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00730QW70/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5UDCDbCNBWG7F
This stuff is the best. I mean best. It doesn't smell and it kills them. My aunt's house went from seeing them crawl all over the walls dropping down on you when you walk through doorways. All in her appliances. Everywhere super bad. She used this stuff and it cleared up quick fast and in a hurry. I ended up needing some because a kid I babysat bright them I. My house in their car seat. I didn't know they had them. I used these and never did get an infestation but I was seeing them creep up here and there and was like what the hell where are these coming from? It was the kids car seat. You can use them in your car too if they have made it out there. God they are do gross and eeew. Seriously try it this stuff works.!
I had a problem for a bit and put this shit out and those fuckers have never come back
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00730QW70/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_gHJQDbDZB2T3J
This stuff rocks. https://www.amazon.com/advion-Plungers-Cockroach-Insecticide-Australian/dp/B00730QW70 My bf moved into a new place that the owner had to remove 32 contractor bags of trash from and had that roach smell... in 3 days they stopped seeing them. But it was also a house and not a multi unit building.
Yes! Best solution to roaches. EVER. https://www.amazon.com/advion-Plungers-Cockroach-Insecticide-Australian/dp/B00730QW70/ref=sr_1_2?crid=BGS8SRINS3VA&keywords=advion+cockroach+gel+bait&qid=1573831350&sprefix=advio%2Caps%2C208&sr=8-2
Put one of these in the bottom. Don't use the wood tray provided...apparently it's the best way. I have a master built electric and am ordering one of these soon.
A-MAZE-N Pellet Smoker https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007ROPJ1M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_liBDxbK6QSC3W
pellet grills just dont' generate the raw smoke that stick or charcoal does, that's the trade off for being able to walk away for 12 hours.
I recommend trying an A-maze-n smoke tray to get more raw smoke flavor. light both ends and you get a LOT of smoke.
Just buy the Amaze-N-Smoker (Or This One) and be done with it.
You'd think the frequency you're getting bit, that you'd see one somewhere by now.. kinda sounds like there's a few fleas still lingering. My brother had a flea issue and bought this trap and said it started catching fleas within 15 min. Can't hurt to get one or 2 to use in the rooms you're noticing bites in.
He was also dealing with a bedbug problem at the time and used this CimeXa Powder and it helped a ton also. He used a 1" angled paint brush to apply the powder to the cracks and crevices and a powder duster to dust larger areas.
https://www.amazon.com/CimeXa-Insecticide-ounces-bottle-Rockwell/dp/B0085HRWI8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1543032378&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=cimexa+bedbug+dust
Oh boy. That's a blessing and a curse, I suppose - there is still action you can take to prevent a home infestation.
The best way to prevent bringing them home is heat. Immediately take pretty much any article of clothing you think might have come into contact with him (or any others), head on over to the nearest industrial laundromat, and toss your stuff into the largest dryer they have and let it run on high for a long time. Also, DON'T take your suitcase into your car with you. Put all of your clothes in plastic trash bags first, and tie them. Assume that your suitcase has been infiltrated, so placing it in your car could release them in there.
Periodically, once you get home, go do a thorough search of your bedroom. The first thing to look for are dark stains on your mattress. These are usually blood stains (since bedbugs are easily squished if you roll over). Also, check every crack & crevice on the mattress for small black objects like these, which are bedbug p00p. Also, keep an eye out for any shed skin remnants which'll look translucent like those.
If you do have any of those visible signs on your mattress, you'll need to call an exterminator. Seriously, it's pretty much impossible to deal with an infestation by yourself since they hide EVERYWHERE. Including in your walls.
Also, please inform your college's residential services department. They're liable for this sort of stuff.
If you'd like an additional safety measure, just to be safe, get some of this stuff and apply it to your bedframe at home. It's kinda like post exposure prophylaxis to ensure that none have the opportunity to set up shop once you get home should they still successfully hitchhike. It's a desiccating agent that isn't toxic to you.
Buy some silica gel (https://www.amazon.com/CimeXa-Insecticide-ounces-bottle-Rockwell/dp/B0085HRWI8) right now and just coat the entire apartment with it. Leave it as long as you can completely sealed.
It will kill any bugs in there. Check cracks in walls and corners, in between floor boards, behind appliances. Just buy like 2-3 bottles at least and just douse the entire place.
To anyone suffering from bed bugs: http://www.amazon.com/CimeXa-Insecticide-ounces-bottle-Rockwell/dp/B0085HRWI8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1452125613&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=cimexa
This stuff nukes 'em.
I bought it off of amazon, it's a T5 grow light which hangs from my ceiling and it measure 2ft! Perfect for my little apartment :)
Also consider SMG bought General Hydroponics. I agree Miracle Grow is shit for MJ but everyone knows that.
Does General Hydroponics make good fertilizer/nutrients for MJ?
I think SMG's aim is to give your average MJ home grower a "one stop shop" experience at Home Depot or Lowe's. Or Amazon shoppers too.
[https://www.amazon.com/General-Hydroponics-Organics-Go-Box/dp/B004PS4B08]
I'm concerned I might actually be under-watering, I've been just splashing a bit of water in the container. Last night I went down and they were bone dry, so I gave them a good soaking, hoping that maybe I'm just under watering. We'll see on that front. Here's the rundown on what I've been doing.
- Growing Medium - Soil - Roots Organic
- Nutrients - Bio Thrive 5ml/gallon - General Organics Grow Box -
- LED light - VIPARSPECTRA ULTRA
I've got this PH Tester and have been keeping my PH between 6&7.
I have the grow box myself and it's done very well in my opinion. It gives the schedule all the way through the veg and flower. You can adjust the dosages to your liking as you begin to notice the habits of the plants you're growing. For instance I just set mine to flower and I'm feeding twice a week instead of once right now; white widow seems to love it.
I would also suggest getting a ph kit. You should be able to see one on the frequently purchased together listing thing on this Amazon page. Just a PH up and down bottle with small test kit dropper thing.
General Hydroponics General Organics Go Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004PS4B08/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_ADdbvb050FMDY
Honestly, you need to get on a forum such as rollitup and start reading the stickies at the top of each section until you have a better understanding. Read, Read, Read and read some more. Are you doing this for fun? Dropping a seed in soil to see if it sprouts? Or are you serious and really wanna grow some bud. If its the second option than lets be logical. How much bud do you think you could get off a plant that's growing in a small cup? I know some people start their seedlings in solo cups but from the pics it looks like your trying to do the entire grow in the solo cup. Man, there are just way too many bases to cover here but please do not give up. Keep growing the plants you have while you do more research from an informational dense place such as what I mentioned above. Just to touch on some bases you gotta get those plants out of those solo cups and into larger containers. You need A Lot more light (cfl's by the pic) and get them within 3 inches of the light or they will keep stretching the way they are. I wouldn't even expect much off those plants either. Just apply everything you learned from this grow and from your research to your next and hopefully it will be more successful. Here is a good complete line of nutrients for someone starting out and it should give you an idea of what your plant needs to thrive. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004PS4B08/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1419201497&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=AC_SX200_QL40 Nutrients really don't matter if your plant isn't in a big enough container and is not getting enough light so take care of those two things first.
I started them in a 3 gallon SmartPot because I knew it would outgrow cells before I could get them outside. It transplanted easy along a fence. I fed them with an organic fertilizer (this one).
The soil was great. It was fresh soil in a spot that was never planted in before. Although a pine tree was near it. Could that have done it? It got sun around 12pm onward.
I live in old building and I see cockroaches every once in a while in garbage area, but not so much in my apt. However, a few years ago I started seeing a few (maybe 3 in a month) so I got the below product. I think it works well because I see maybe one a year now, and every once in a while a dead one.
For your first go, i’d use four tubes, to make sure you get it under control, but now i use maybe 2 tubes evert 4 months for “protection.”
https://www.amazon.com/advion-Plungers-Cockroach-Insecticide-Australian/dp/B00730QW70/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=cockroach+killer&amp;qid=1569766850&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=cockro&amp;sr=8-3
I recommend this though
https://www.amazon.com/advion-Plungers-Cockroach-Insecticide-Australian/dp/B00730QW70
&#x200B;
tbh my apartment complex had a roach issue so i used some of this stuff on the outside AND inside of the building and it helped a lot. Haven't seen any since I applied it in like June
Op, try this stuff:
https://www.amazon.com/advion-Plungers-Cockroach-Insecticide-Australian/dp/B00730QW70/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=Advion&amp;qid=1573478469&amp;sr=8-2
I've been recommending this stuff for years and haven't had one person come back and say it didn't work. Here's my old reddit.poat about it explaining how well it works:
https://www.reddit.com/r/tifu/comments/6zpf6k/comment/dmxd0hy
This is what you want: https://www.amazon.com/advion-Plungers-Cockroach-Insecticide-Australian/dp/B00730QW70
Put a line in the back corner of your under sink cabinets and other places they might hang out
As nice as living in Hawaii is, these things are pretty common in the islands.
This is what I personally have used and recommend - https://www.amazon.com/advion-Plungers-Cockroach-Insecticide-Australian/dp/B00730QW70/ref=sr_1_4?s=lawn-garden&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1525906408&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=advion+cockroach+roach+gel+bait
SUPER effective.
It is still pretty cold around here, so the temp was around 25-30F when I was smoking. The Amaze-n-smoker uses pellets to create smoke at a low temp.
I use it for nuts and cheeses a lot in the Spring and Fall when ambient temps are lower. As it starts to warm up, I still use it, but will put steaks, chops and other things on a bed of ice in the grill with the smoke. If you like smoke flavor, it doesn't get any easier.
And thanks for the kind words.
I don’t use the smoke tube. I use the amazen pellet smoker. Longer more consistent smoke, no refilling the tray, and you can cold smoke with it.
A-MAZE-N Pellet Smoker - Hot or Cold Smoking - Works on any Grill or Smoker https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007ROPJ1M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_n-lmDbPVF6PWT
I started out with the gas version of the Masterbuilt cabinet smoker. I'm not sure how well the electric does at low temps, but the propane smoker wasn't very good at keeping the temps low.
You might look into the A-MAZE-N pellet smoker for cold-smoking. I haven't actually done any cold smoking, but I remember hearing lots of good things about it on various forums & youtube reviews.
If you're a smoke addict, I recommend smoking some of the cheese. If you have one of these, you can cold smoke inside your existing smoker. That way you can put a decent amount of smoke on the cheese without melting.
I have one similar to this and I love it but I probably would not recommend it for indoor use. I use it on the patio and half my house still ends up smelling like smoke and meat after using it for a couple of hours. Plus, he'd have to find some way to vent it outside, something like coupling a hose to the vent in the top and putting the other end out a window?
Maybe try something like this https://www.amazon.com/A-MAZE-N-AMNPS5X8-Pellet-Smoker/dp/B007ROPJ1M which he could use in the oven to add smoke flavor? Still would be a little concerned with smoke indoors though, especially in an apartment where you could lose your deposit if the smell sticks.
My disdain for pellet smokers is probably no secret, but being that this was a gift, I'll tell you what I've learned from them. Don't sell a gift, especially from your father in law. That's a dick move.
There are a ton of other things you can try, but these will definitely get you started.
Nice, glad it works for you! I had the Amazin smoker tray, but found I didn't get enough airflow for it to work properly, that and sawdust was hard to find/overly expensive, so I bought the Amazin tube and use pellets. It burns through a little quicker, and runs a bit hotter, but it's much more forgiving with airflow.
I purchased a cold smoke generator. And all it does burn tiny wood chips and it creates no heat and produces more than enough smoke. You'd light it once and it'll go for about 10 hours without an issue. All you need is an torch to get it going.
This is the cold smoke generator I bought:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007ROPJ1M/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1413715153&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SX200_QL40
I have just successfully dealt with this without an expensive exterminator. First thing is to take the bottom liner off of your box spring and use this dust all on it http://smile.amazon.com/CimeXa-Insecticide-ounces-bottle-Rockwell/dp/B0085HRWI8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463285327&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=cimexa . The Cimexa will get under their exoskeleton and dry them out and kill them usually within 2 days. You want to use the Cimexa on your baseboards, light fixtures, outlets, and furniture. From all my research this is the best way to get rid of them as they are really resistant to chemical insecticides. Put your mattress and box spring in bed bug resistant mattress covers. Through all I read this brand was the best http://smile.amazon.com/Sleep-Defense-System-Waterproof-Encasement/dp/B01413355S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463285687&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=bed+bug+mattress+covers. I put the Cimexa on the box spring on top of the mattress cover just to be sure everything died. You want to leave the mattress covers on for at least a year, the bugs can survive for up to a year with no food, so if you are just trying to starve them out keep everything sealed for at least a year. The plastic foot to put under your bed works, I used tuperware of water but I have plastic bed feet so I don't have to worry about rusting my bed frame, they cannot swim at all so the water is very effective, put bleach or witch hazel in the water to discourage molding and mildewing. Wash and dry all clothes on high heat, they will die within 20 minutes if exposed to 120 degree heat, can also put things in your oven that wont fair well in the dryer. Vacuum daily, make sure you take the bag out seal it in a garbage bag and take it outside far as you can from the house as soon as you are done vacuuming. Keep sleeping in your bed, you want to draw them out of their hiding spaces to get in contact with all the Cimexa you have laid out, you are essentially using yourself as bait, there are also so DIY CO2 traps (they are attracted to the CO2 we exhale) that use water and yeast or dry ice, I haven't used them but you might want to look into them if you feel so inclined. Good news is they are more annoying than anything, they are not known to spread disease or cause actual harm aside from being itchy. Good luck I hope this helps you.
https://www.amazon.com/CimeXa-Insecticide-ounces-bottle-Rockwell/dp/B0085HRWI8
this is the one i bought and it worked wonders
you are probably fine, but if you want to be extra sure, you can use this stuff to kill any if there are eggs that hatch:
https://www.amazon.com/CimeXa-Insecticide-ounces-bottle-Rockwell/dp/B0085HRWI8
To add to what airhighfive is saying, you should use Cimexa. This sub is always recommending it. This is a study about the effectiveness of Cimexa over DE. Here is an amazon link to but the stuff.
Long post incoming!
Not sure what you tried but here's what I did (sorry if you've already done these). Full disclosure, I'm not a professional in the slightest, but this worked for me.
There is a better product than DE
Also bug interceptors
Dust the place with this:
Rockwell Labs CXID032 Cimexa Dust... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0085HRWI8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Use with this cheap bellows duster:
Harris Diatomaceous Earth Powder... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LRMN9ZM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Cracks and baseboards, and bed perimeter with this:
Ortho 0202510 Home Defense Max... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JYT16AA?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Get that dust everywhere. I see you got rid of your furniture? But, when you get new? Get that stuff down in the cracks and everything. Do under your bed. Just do the whole place with a fine layer it will grind into everything and disappear...but stay there for ten freaking years. The NEXT day I started finding them dead and dried out. The live ones were all jacked up acting and had dry bodies inside of plump ones. When I mashed a live one? It just flaked apart. I still keep the bed traps under our bed feet? Nothing. Check out and read the reviews on that dust. It’s no joke and it won’t hurt you. It works FAST and it’s deadly.
I dusted the bed frame and pulled off the sheets and dusted the box spring and sides and my mattress too. Put the sheet back over it and pulled my bed about two inches from the wall...well I did all the beds like that.
I did every inch of this place....over kill. But they crawl trough that dust and it fucks them up big time.
It was ages before I finally felt completely “safe”. But I haven’t even thought about them in months now.
The dust is Cilicia gel. Like the little packets you find in new shoes of beef jerky. Dries them out. Just absorbs every drop of moisture in them. Works through their exoskeleton. Literally turns them to flakes.
Your landlord may not have been aware of an infestation. They could have been deep within the box spring, he could have been immune to their bites.
Have you CONFIRMED that these bugs are bedbugs, by visual comparison?
Follow this protocol:
I have this in two foot and 4 foot. Highly recommended. All my plants are nice and vibrant and not etiolated at all.
And I also have this for quarantine plants and at work for my desk plant. Works great and is dimmable, and each light can be turned on individually or together. Also has a few built in timers.
Also, as an aside, when you do get your cactus a light make sure you acclimate it. Just like us, cactuses sunburn.
yea, don't use ViparSpectra 300w. Grab some T5s instead: https://www.amazon.com/Light-4lamps-DL824-Fluorescent-Hydroponic/dp/B009GU4RMC
maybe splurge on some bulbs. You will be able to bring the light much closer with the T5s. The LED u looking at is ~meh to say the least.
For some real restricted space, u may want to invest in something like this: https://scrogger.com/products/p-scrog-primary-system with the money you save buying the T5s instead of that fail led. Then scrog whatever you stick in there. You can use a no-brainer bubbler in that setup for a nice grow too:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WBZZY30/ref=s9_acsd_hps_bw_c_x_13_w (fuck soil, its for weaklings, bwahahaha!)
>I want to mainline the plant to maximise yield with the space i have.
then scrog.https://imgur.com/oWStgjR
or grab a 400W and vent that heat!
Can't speak to the hydro part.
Since you are already considering $600 for lights, going Quantum Board (or diode strips if you don't mind DIY) really is a better option. 260w @ 3000K for flower, and 120w @ 4000K for veg for veg is a better option. Cheaper and they run cooler.
I have these two grow lights: Ferry Morse and DuroLux
No heat may but was looking into getting this one
I use this light to propagate and raise my plants they love it. https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&amp;ai=DChcSEwjch6Tr5argAhVetcAKHQB6CAkYABAaGgJpbQ&amp;ae=1&amp;sig=AOD64_0JKkDQgzbrY-y97gVI8UIdkH6Jcg&amp;ctype=5&amp;q=&amp;ved=2ahUKEwjy45zr5argAhUGSa0KHWE0DU0Qwg96BAgLEDI&amp;adurl=https://www.amazon.com/Light-4lamps-DL824-Fluorescent-Hydroponic/dp/B009GU4RMC/ref%3Dasc_df_B009GU4RMC/%3Ftag%3Dhyprod-20%26linkCode%3Ddf0%26hvadid%3D167140116641%26hvpos%3D1o11%26hvnetw%3Dg%26hvrand%3D14470749587284503236%26hvpone%3D%26hvptwo%3D%26hvqmt%3D%26hvdev%3Dm%26hvdvcmdl%3D%26hvlocint%3D%26hvlocphy%3D9015235%26hvtargid%3Daud-465585855334:pla-307335020097%26psc%3D1
I'd recommend the best 2 foot T5 HO fixture you can afford.
I've got one of these and it's fantastic.
Why can't you buy online? There's nothing illegal with buying lights.
https://www.amazon.com/Light-4lamps-DL824-Fluorescent-Hydroponic/dp/B009GU4RMC/ref=sr_1_5?s=lawn-garden&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1542347024&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=t5+grow+lights
Return that shit and get rockin and rollin.
If you're that paranoid ordering online, you can order from home depot/lowes. They won't have it in store, but you can do ship to store in store pick up I guess.
I'd use something like this is you're talking leafy greens like lettuce or kale or similar. I'm using the 4 foot version of this for hydroponic lettuce and kale right now and they love the light.
T5 Grow Light (2ft 4lamps) DL824 Ho Fluorescent Hydroponic Bloom Veg Daisy Chain with Bulbs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009GU4RMC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FlM5BbVX6DY06
It depends on the plants, but that light wouldn't be much help to most garden/outdoor plants. Even something like this would need to be right next to the leaves to give them enough light, and left on for at least 12-16 hours.
If it's an indoor plant though, they generally don't need as much light and will most likely be fine even with that bulb you linked.
I have these hanging from above, and these where I need something freestanding.
... My previous comment was actually kinda sarcastic. You see, these provide white light, which includes all (visible) colors.
http://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Watts-Volts-Monocrystalline-Starter/dp/B00BFCNFRM
Expand from there with more panels depending on how fast you want to charge the battery. I recommend spending the few extra bucks for the MPPT charge controller, those cheap chinese PWM controllers can be pretty notorious for QRM. The charge controller specs will determine how many more panels you can add to the system.
I bought a kit similar to this and hooked it up to the largest (115ah) deep cycle battery I could buy.
I run all my interior lights, an electric water pump, a 1000w inverter off it with no problems so far. Again i'd gauge your power usage. A friend of mine has almost the identical setup and always seems to be draining his battery, he charges his laptop and drone batteries off the system though.
You can do much better on panels now, http://www.amazon.com/Renogy-100W-Mono-Starter-Kit/dp/B00BFCNFRM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1415138291&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=solar+panel
Hi there! Our Starter Kit might also be a good alternative for you as well because unlike our Bundle Kit, it also includes Z-brackets and a tray cable. If you have any questions relating to your system, feel free to message us. :)
All the best,
The Renogy Team
I don't recall right now, but it was in south california, maybe 6-8 hours? I can look it up tomorrow.
Worth it.
Did it have power? I'm trying to recall. It may not have, come to think of it :|
You could certainly do something laptop based:
Renogy 100 Watts 12 Volts Monocrystalline Solar Panel
It's better to be safe than sorry. You don't want to bring out all that gear only to find you can't turn it on.
You'll be fine with any of these with the top one being your best candidate. Just remember to be courteous to your neighbors if people are trying to sleep!
Xantrex 806-1210 PROwatt 1000 SW Inverter
MicroSolar 1000W (Peak 2000W) Pure Sine Wave Inverter
BESTEK® Dual 110V AC Outlets 1000w/1200w Max Car DC 12V to 110V AC Inverter Power
You'll probably want to get a fuse holder and a cable kit depending on how far you expect to keep the table from your car.
You could also go the more environmental route and get some solar panels to juice up a spare solar battery each day.
I'm not a pro on the subject but I think you should start the process with a budget in mind. Then you can look at amazon or eBay and find something like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BFCNFRM/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1418164194&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SY200_QL40
Preferably with good reviews within your budget and the documentation that comes with the product will usually explain pretty clearly how to connect everything together. Remember you can always add more batteries and panels in the future.
If you feel like some serious scope creep....
Get one of these.....and maybe some solar to charge a deep cycle battery.....
Have you considered dry ice as well?
This one seems about right for you.
For temps look at something with a temp sensor and pair that with a cheap booster fan and it will pull the air out when the light is on and regulate the temps for you. https://www.amazon.com/Century-BNQ-T7B-Digital-Cooling-Controller/dp/B01LZV591B/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1550002156&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=century+temp+controller
I looked at a comparable led light and it looks like it would have appropriate PAR levels of light at about 24-30 inches above your plant. 12 inches is really close. Plants at that stage need very little light intensity. The consensus is about 250 par for seedlings. Here is a link to something with pretty similar wattage draw to give you an idea of intensity at different heights. https://www.amazon.com/VIPARSPECTRA-Reflector-Spectrum-Indoor-Function/dp/B015FLSOCE/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1550002428&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=viparspectra
VIPARSPECTRA UL Certified Reflector-Series 450W LED Grow Light Full Spectrum for Indoor Plants Veg and Flower, Has Daisy Chain Function https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015FLSOCE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_q-oMDbNHR3VE8
Apologies for leaving that out - here's the light I used:
VIPARSPECTRA Reflector-Series 300W LED Grow Light Full Spectrum for Indoor Plants Veg and Flower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B4GQ6MO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_2mNSGemHv8xkn
Edit: Ok my bad apparently that version isn't sold anymore but here is the link to the 450W version : https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B015FLSOCE/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr0_1
Here is the Light I'm using. So far it's worked incredible. It's supposed to cover a 2.5x2.5 space.
https://www.amazon.com/Mieemclux-Reflector-Triple-Chips-Spectrum-Available/dp/B07SNP22XS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=led+grow+light&qid=1565576938&s=gateway&sr=8-3
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https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Hydroponic-Observation-Window-Growing/dp/B01DXYMQ9M/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=grow+tent&qid=1565576981&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUE1NE9VWlZWRU5XRDEmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA5Mzg4NjExVFFNUjlER1NVSTlDJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA3MjU0NTQzRFE0RVE3WjdOUjdBJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
https://www.amazon.com/Lilly-Miller-100099247-Quart-Fertilizer/dp/B000BX4QGK/ref=sr_1_3?crid=WQYMXKQ4RC54&keywords=alaska+fish+fertilizer&qid=1565577089&s=gateway&sprefix=alaska+fish+f%2Caps%2C235&sr=8-3
https://www.amazon.com/PH-Meter-Automatic-Calibration-Accuracy/dp/B07NYZBYD3/ref=sr_1_11_sspa?keywords=ph+pen&qid=1565577113&s=gateway&sr=8-11-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEySTVLNEg3S0dWVE5FJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDg2MzQ2MkI3SDdRUEoySjFFRSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMTY4Njk3Mkg0MERVWUxEVlg3WiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX210ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
https://www.amazon.com/Hydroponic-pH-Down-Control-Kit/dp/B00TYW6Q58/ref=sr_1_18?keywords=ph+up&qid=1565577139&s=gateway&sr=8-18
that will do what youre looking for. Make sure if you use that fertilizer that you ph your water after you use it because it will tank you PH down to about 4. If someone tells you you have to spend more than $400 to get started they are wrong. You do not need to spend that much. You can ... but you dont have to.
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miricle gro performance organics is like twelve bucks a bag at lowes and is OMRI certified
Something like this https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Hydroponic-Observation-Window-Growing/dp/B01DXYMQ9M/ref=sr_1_4?s=lawn-garden&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510850378&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=grow+tent&amp;dpID=41vlDhyEv%252BL&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
Either 4x4 or 4x8. Probably 4x8
Grow tent $50 shipped- https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Hydroponic-Observation-Window-Growing/dp/B01DXYMQ9M/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=4x2+vivosun&amp;qid=1567717535&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3
AC infinity(duct tape adhesive is on it) $110 shipped-https://www.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-CLOUDLINE-T6-Temperature/dp/B074XBXFPD/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=ac+infinity+cloudline+t6&amp;qid=1567717602&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=ac+infin&amp;sr=8-2
Meijiu 240W with driver completely wired $130 shipped- https://m.alibaba.com/product/62055663077/meijiu-quantum-board-full-spectrum-folux.html
Well if an ounce is all you want, check out /r/SpaceBuckets. I could never get myself to do it as growing a weed plant, even just 1, is a huge investment of your time, resources, and effort. I think about it like: If I can get 1-2oz from a spacebucket in the same 3-5 months time, why not invest money that'll make itself back twice over just the first grow (even if you dont sell any, to me getting 1000$ of weed from my grow is making my 1000$ back but ima stoner lol)
and spend my 3-5 months growing 16-20oz.
Ya know? But I can understand why some people can't or dont want to.
edit: here's some links
nice sale on the tent i use right now, these are HIGH QUALITY, only tent ive found is better is gorilla but even then they both have their own pros and cons:
https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Hydroponic-Obeservation-Window-Growing/dp/B01DXYMQ9M/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493165611&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=2x2+grow+tent
roleadro 300w led
https://www.amazon.com/Roleadro-Upgrade-Developed-Spectrum-Generation/dp/B01HI3AFYM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493165668&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=roleadro+300w
fan and xarbon filter: https://www.amazon.com/iPower-GLFANXINLINE4-Hydroponic-Conditioning-Pre-wired/dp/B00D7M6692/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493165639&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=4%22%2Bexhaust%2Bfan%2Bfilter&amp;th=1
you would still need soil and all the odds and ends pieces still though.
This is a great list. Thanks for posting it.
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Hydroking.ca is another newer shop in Little Italy that's pretty good for hydroponic growers.
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For people wanting to go LED, I put together this tutorial on how to build a no soldering required LED build - https://imgur.com/a/yZo5FsB
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For some friends asking about a 4 plant setup, I made this quick list of things they'd need:
- Soil $149- http://destinygrowsystems.com/grow-kits/ - https://www.greencorner.ca/destiny-4-plant-grow-kit.html
- lighting $199 - https://www.amazon.ca/VIVOSUN-Hydroponic-Digital-Dimmable-Ballast/dp/B00P8P50G6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539906294&sr=8-3&keywords=hps%2B600w&dpID=51VpECcA31L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch&th=1
- Tent $119 - https://www.amazon.ca/VIVOSUN-Horticulture-Hydroponic-Obeservation-Growing/dp/B01DXYMQ9M/ref=sr_1_1?s=lawn-garden&rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1539910838&sr=1-1&keywords=grow+tent&refinements=p_85%3A5690392011
-bHVAC $189 - https://www.amazon.ca/VIVOHOME-Scrubber-Aluminum-Flexible-Ventilation/dp/B07CHC2Z1N/ref=sr_1_6?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1539906699&sr=1-6&keywords=6%22+carbon+filter&dpID=51VdpZrXbhL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
- pots $19 - https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01I1D9N9Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_F7rYBbNA7CD4V
- Saucers $21 - https://www.amazon.ca/Hydrofarm-Hgs12-Clear-12-Inch-Saucer/dp/B0055F5WC6/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1539906520&sr=8-14&keywords=saucer
36" x 20" x 62"
https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Hydroponic-Observation-Window-Growing/dp/B0716BK1KD/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1542084519&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=vivosun+2x4+grow+tent
48" x 24" x 60"
https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Hydroponic-Observation-Window-Growing/dp/B01DXYMQ9M/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1542084519&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=vivosun+2x4+grow+tent
I have a vivosun 4'x4' and love it. Do you have a light already?
I haven’t bought one yet, but I’m thinking of getting this one but the 60x32x80 so I can have some decent space for airflow between tubs, I already have an exhaust fan for a grow tent that I’ll probably keep on a timer to bring in fresh air a few times a day,
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DXYMQ9M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JIy2DbMQ65YCQ
You don't need a "night light", you want your snake to have darkness at night. Light and heat should be from two separate sources, and make sure your heat source is always controlled by a thermostat. If your room does not receive ambient lighting from a window, etc. you can use something as simple as a clamp lamp with an led light bulb screwed into it, plugged into an outlet timer. As long as the light is not overly bright (grow lights or aquarium fixtures can be too bright) and your snake has a place(s) to seek shelter this will work fine.
I am a huge fan of these thermostats. I have three for my snake's viv-- one dangling under the heat lamp at the point she could slither to, one against the glass where the heat mat for the warm side is, and one against the glass where the heat mat for the cool side is (my house runs too cold, so I keep lamp+mat for the warm side both set to one temp, and mat on cool side set to a lower temp).
I tend to keep my apartment around 70F, which wasn't enough to keep my starter decently active. I bought a seed germination mat with a thermostat and put it in a plastic storage bin. Works great to keep my starter temp consistent and doubles as a proofing bin when I'm baking.
I wouldn't put too much stock into anything you read on yahoo answers. I've used CHEs for a number of years without issue. Depending on the wattage, I've measured over 500 degrees on the surface of the CHE but ceramics can withstand extremely high temperatures. A defective CHE with a bubble in the material could easily explode and I'm sure it happens but it seems rare. If you are concerned, there are very reliable and affordable thermostats available online. Just make sure you are using a light fixture with a ceramic socket so it can withstand the heat of the CHE. These are the fixtures and thermostats I've used with CHEs and UTHs.
https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Wire-Cage-Clamp/dp/B0002DIWVO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1536344685&sr=8-3&keywords=wire+clamp+lamp
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E9IO6N0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NZZG3S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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I use this thermometer and put it at the very beginning of his cool end/toward the middle of his tank. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072XHJLFD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ucoYDbZK5D6HA
There are more expensive ones that are reptile specific out there, but this has never failed me. Just be sure you have a stat for each heat source and have the probes positioned appropriately https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E9IO6N0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EdoYDbE9C22BR
Also might be worth getting a temp gun. They’re accurate and can give you exact readings for spots they hang out most.
I use a fair bit of blankets and a plant germinating mat with a temp probe. I think I paid 20-30$ for that mat, and blankets/towels from a second-hand store. If the room is cold enough, you shouldn't need a freezer. It will be less effective but much cheaper. Something like this, mat not included.
Get yourself a heat mat and a cheaper thermostat. I use these when I need a cheaper option. I also have a second probe thermometer to monitor the temps since I don't completely trust the cheaper thermostats. But I've used them for years without any issues, so I haven't found anything to justify my distrust. I just like to be doubly sure. (:
For the shedding, the most important thing to help your leo is a humid hide. My girls get enclosed hides (something with a base and only a hole entrance) with sphagnum moss. I mist the moss until damp every other day or as needed. I live in a very arid environment (usually around 20%) and don't do anything else for my leos humidity wise except their hides. They very rarely have any shedding issues. One girl actually came to me with horrible chronic shed problems (she lost 3/4ths of her poor little toes to stuck shed), but with her humid hide she's not had any problems since!
If you don't have one already, there are guides to making your own humid hide. You can get a tupperware container with a lid, place it on it's top and cut a hole in the side where the leo can get in. Stuff it with a bit of moss and mist it and there you go! There are hides sold specifically for humidity, and I find my girls prefer the dark hides to the clear tupperware, but it sounds like your boy needs something ASAP.
Edit: to answer your question more. I only step in for stuck shed with my leos if it has been a few days. Once in a while they will have some left over for awhile after a shed, but they usually take care of it themselves. Toes and noses can be tricky and can take some time. If they have a humid hide they'll use it to help soften the remains. When I do have to step in, I use a wet cotton swab after a soak. You can try dripping water onto his nose to soften the shed first.
We use these for our bearded dragon and hedgehog, but there's no reason you couldn't just plug a space heater into it. I agree there's not really a need for a "smart" solution here.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E9IO6N0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/UNIFUN-Growing-Hydroponic-Aquatic-Indoor/dp/B01F53LP46/ref=sr_1_9?s=lawn-garden&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511118706&amp;sr=1-9&amp;keywords=led+grow+light
I just bought two of those after having the 15w version for a while now. The 15 watt one is enough for most of my plants but it doesnt quite bring out the nice colors of most of them and my e. prolifica is still etiolating like crazy. The 45watt one will be enough though I think.
What you really want to ask is how many Watts per square meter (or square foot). If your garden bed is large, you'll need more light. And light that doesn't hit the garden doesn't count.
Something like this covers about 4'x4' with pretty good brightness. With all the LEDs pointing at the plants, this will be far more effective than a LED grow bulb in a typical household lighting fixture.
Does the fact that it's 18 months old count for anything? I'm getting contradictory advise
Edit: I also have it under a 45 watt grow light
I got this one from Amazon.
45W LED Grow Light, UNIFUN New Light Plant Bulbs Plant Growing Bulb for Hydroponic Aquatic Indoor Plants https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F53LP46/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1davzb63SSH7P
Mi se par o companie de încredere și cu potențial de creștere.
On an unrelated note, ce părere aveți de produsul acesta?
45W LED Grow Light, UNIFUN New Light Plant Bulbs Plant Growing Bulb for Hydroponic Aquatic Indoor Plants https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F53LP46/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cptODbQHDE0JB
I used some of these for an indoor setup with good success. Like u/LilPineapple69 said, maybe you could use a few in your greenhouse.
I just ordered a QB 260 Watt set up, replacing some really junky lights. I'm at the end of my first grow so im excited for the major upgrade :D my grow space is smaller than yours.
Old lights https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01F53LP46?psc=1&amp;ref=yo_pop_mb_pd
>if I didn't add ice, the bowl/water container easy goes up to 93F after a 16 hour light cycle...
If your house is 77F, but your water is 93F, something is wrong. The water should be at ambient temperature, which in your case seems to be 93F. Do you have a lot of hot lights right up against the plants with no fan? If so, fix your lights.
>with lighting from something like this but hopefully a bit smaller -
Don't use pure blue LEDs, you want either whites or red/blue. something like these: https://www.amazon.com/Roleadro-Spectrum-Hydroponic-Greenhouse-Succulents/dp/B01IVQ96KY/ref=sr_1_5
Sorry never checked my notifications, here's that link
https://www.amazon.com/Roleadro-Spectrum-Hydroponic-Greenhouse-Succulents/dp/B01IVQ96KY/ref=asc_df_B01IVQ96KY/?tag=hyprod-20&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=198107334619&amp;hvpos=1o6&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=4560918641975468473&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvqmt=&amp;hvdev=m&amp;hvdvcmdl=&amp;hvlocint=&amp;hvlocphy=9028727&amp;hvtargid=pla-318369567006&amp;psc=1
It’s an LED array. It’s a cheap one; you’ll find they can get very expensive. LEDs are nice because they consume little power, produce almost no heat, and last a long time. These plants get some sunlight; I use a timer to run the lights 2-6 hours/day, depending on time of year.
I’m no expert, but I find they work well, especially for seedlings/young plants. Some plants do fine with limited sun, others need lots of light. Flowering plants apparently do better with a wider spectrum light than the one shown here. I’d suggest researching a bit, getting one that fits your needs, and giving it a try.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IVQ96KY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_llxQDbZ1DY2NN considering these
Yeah you can but you're better off buying a LED panel or ufo, you'd need at least eight of those bulbs for a nice small plant, look into socket splitters if you go this way but check these other options out too.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IVQ96KY/.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00RWYCRB2/
Hey there! I think you're going to have trouble growing in the window if you're facing north. South is best, and I've grown nice window plants with good east and west exposure, but never north.
I think your best bet is to do a small indoor set-up like mine. This is where I start my peppers before moving them outdoors. I have three of these panels suspended from a shelving unit, and I'm growing below using Khang Starr's 2-cup method. The lights are on a timer for 16 hours of light and 8 hours of dark, but you could get away with a little less if it keeps your roommate happy.
I actually germinate the seeds in a starter with a heating mat to keep it around 85°, but while that will speed up germination, it's not completely necessary. You can also get good results by germinating the seeds in a paper towel, dampened with water, and sealed in a ziploc bag.
Last thing is the fertilizer solution for the bottom cup. I use MasterBlend 4-18-38, mixed with the recommended amounts of ammonium nitrate and Epsom salt. I've had really excellent results so far.
If you get started soon, I don't think you'd outgrow a small setup by mid-May.
Where do you live? Sounds like you need to invest in a grow light for it. If it’s that big, tabletop lights won’t be enough. Look at some of the hanging lamps like this.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IVQ96KY
It's a phlizon 600 watt LED light. https://www.amazon.ca/Phlizon-Thermometer-Humidity-Adjustable-Spectrum/dp/B0752CL6KJ
Edit: it pulls 108watts from the wall aparently.
First timer here. I have 3 female autoflower Northern Lights seedlings at the moment. I am using a 600W amazon LED and 2 45W LED panels in a 4x2 tent. I wasn’t aware the actual wattage of the 600W Amazon light is closer to 150W when I bought it. What’s my best bet for having enough light for all 3 plants in a 4x2 tent? I’m trying to keep costs relatively low. Should I buy some CFLs and spread them around? How many?
My 600w
https://www.amazon.com/Phlizon-Thermometer-Humidity-Adjustable-Spectrum/dp/B0752CL6KJ
Excellent! I'm torn between the bulbs I did, the one you have, and this one,
(https://www.amazon.com/Phlizon-Thermometer-Humidity-Adjustable-Spectrum/dp/B0752CL6KJ/). Do the bulbs for yours have a good shelf life? How costly are replacements vs the LEDs?
Cool, I’ll probably switch both of mine on then. I’m using 3 of these in a 2x4x5 tent
Hi there!
So I would really like to get into the art of Bonsai. I've been looking at getting a Ficus. The only problem is that it would have to permanently (at least for the foreseeable future) live indoors, as I live in a townhouse complex, without access to a balcony/private yard/fenced in area. I completely understand bonsai don't do well indoors, but with the proper lighting is it doable? I have been looking at lighting from local hydroponic shops and am having trouble picking a light. Would a basic 100 Watt-Equivalent CFL work? Or should I get something a bit fancier like one of these?
250 Watt, 6500K CFL with Reflector
2 Foot, 2 Tube, T5 Fluorescent
60 x 10 Watt LED Grow Light (600 Watt Equivalent)
60 x 10 Watt LED Grow Light (900 Watt Equivalent)
[CFL 13 Watt = 65 Watt Equivalent, 6500K] (https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.cfl-13w--60w-mini-twister-daylight-6500k---case-of-12-bulbs.1000681198.html)
CFL 23 Watt = 100 Watt 2700K
CFL 23 Watt = 100 Watt 6500K
If I were to get Fluorescents I would need a stand of some sort. Would something like this work? Should I change the bulbs to something more powerful?
24 Watt, 6400K, 2 Feet T5
Any of the lights purchased would be kept on an automatic timer indoors. Should the length of the timer be affected by the power of the bulb? Less powerful = More time per day?
These are not autos and I have 3-600w LED's. I have 2- VIVOSUN 600W LED Grow Light and 1- Phlizon Newest 600W LED Plant Grow Light -- seeds from https://www.cropkingseeds.com/
As an example for a smallish grow:
2 x 2 x 4 Tent: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B074H5DKPY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00
Lights: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0752CL6KJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00
Exhaust fan: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01C82SYZ0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00
Ducting: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00EPE3XHY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00
Timer: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00MVFF59S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00
Total cost: ~270 CAD
Here's u/ataraxia's classic link dump I found on a other post. Although the informstion is written for bps (most common snake people have trouble with it seems- mostly due to the humedity) but the suggestions could definitely help you for the humedity aspect needed for your boa.
You should definitely read it through.
i'm going to dump a bunch of helpful links on you. the first three links are detailed care sheets, then a tub tutorial, and the rest are product recommendations. read everything thoroughly, come back with any questions.
glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. it's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.
u/_ataraxia has a lot of good information. I've stolen their list of links and information for you to go through, but all the credit for this belongs to them. (Also I don't know how to embed links into the comments since I'm a reddit noob so please excuse the messiness)
the first three links are detailed care sheets, the rest are product recommendations in case you need to get any supplies yourself.
http://reptimes.com/ball-pythons-the-basics-and-then-some
http://reptimes.com/ball-pythons-common-problems
http://reptimes.com/ball-pythons-feeding
spyder robotics (http://www.spyderrobotics.com/index.php?main_page=index&amp;cPath=1) makes high quality thermostats to regulate your heat sources with pulse/proportional temperature control and various safety features. https://www.amazon.com/MTPRTC-ETL-Certified-Thermostat-Germination-Reptiles/dp/B000NZZG3S/ is a popular cheap thermostat with simple on/off style with zero safety features. any heat source should be regulated by a thermostat.
heat tape (http://www.reptilebasics.com/heat-tape) or ultratherm heat pads (http://www.reptilebasics.com/ultratherm-heat-pads) are high quality and affordable under tank heater [UTH] options.
a digital dual sensor thermometer/hygrometer (https://www.amazon.com/AcuRite-00891A3-Outdoor-Thermometer-Humidity/dp/B001BO8CUE/) allows you to easily monitor the warm side floor temperature [with the probe] as well as the ambient temperature and humidity [with the main unit].
an infrared thermometer (https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-774-Non-contact-Thermometer/dp/B00837ZGRY/) allows you to spot-check surface temperatures anywhere in the enclosure.
these hide boxes (http://www.reptilebasics.com/hide-boxes) are a cheap simple hide with a design that offers the best sense of security for your snake. cave style hides, cardboard boxes, plastic food containers, etc, can also be used. half logs are not appropriate hides.
edit: Just fixed some formatting to make it easier to read.
Personally I use these generic branded CX201 - A units. (be aware the link I provided is shipping from China, and will take a while). I have half a dozen and while they are cheap they have been relatively uniform and accurate throughout all the examples I have.
[The AcuRite](AcuRite 00891A3 Indoor/Outdoor Digital Thermometer with Humidity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001BO8CUE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LIiRAbCEG2W80) indoor outdoor plus humidity units are very popular and come highly recommended.
Great! That should also serve as an example too: if it was that easy for you to take off and expose the adhesive, imagine how easy it would have been for a snake!
This is the digital one that Ataraxia has in her link dump. I was concerned because of the reviews, but actually looking through them it seems to be a lot of people who don't know what they are doing/buying. I did an ice-bath test for the probe, a salt test for the hydrometer, and compared the "Inside" temp with a known source and it was fine. While that's a sample size of one unit, you can also return to Amazon for a fair period if something does go wrong.
The hardest part ill be fixing the main unit to the tank since you have glass walls instead of plastic (Plastic you can just pop a hole and slip a bolt through).
It's this light from amazon.
oh and heres the lights I would recommend for smaller setup like what we have:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C59J8L2/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B4GQ6MO/
https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/8254/FC85-S50OD.html
and finally, if you're poor as shit like a lot of us are then buy the quantum board first. you can still produce very nice flowers with just that.
I bought some clip-on plant lights from Amazon, would that work? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C68N7PC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hi! I use these two products:
LED Grow Light for Indoor Plant,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C68N7PC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Grow Light Plant Lights for... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PYFTHMW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
You totally don’t need to use both of them, the first one would be good enough. I bought these two for different uses but ended up using both of them at the same time. I leave them on for at least 12 hours a day.
I totally understand, I haven’t had to do the big chop myself yet, but it’s something that will probably have to happen in the future lol.
I’ve been using this one that’s pretty good. It brought out stress coloring in my succulents so it’s strong enough if you put it really close https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C68N7PC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_zOj0DbHYF72TS If you have a lot of succulents/plants I wouldn’t recommend this style of grow lamp because it doesn’t cover too much area.
If you wanna go the most inexpensive route you can get a grow light bulb and put it in one of your lamps.
There’s a lot of posts on this subreddit asking for grow light recommendations. You can browse through those to get some suggestions! :)
I have this one and have found it to be completely sufficient for keeping my plants happy in the winter! It has a clip and you can turn one or both lights on.
Ok, so the top picture is from March 10th, the bottom one is a month later, so they've all been under the grow lights I purchased for about a month. Most everyone seems to be happy (my sedeveria letizia is struggling, but that's a different issue, I've not gotten her watering down yet) and the two girls in the middle there have each sprouted two buds and flowered! Wondering if anyone can ID the flowering cutey in the back (hoping now that she's flowered it might be easier).
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The lights I purchased are these: https://www.amazon.com/Relassy-Spectrum-Gooseneck-Replaceable-Professional/dp/B07C68N7PC/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_3?keywords=grow+light+relassy+45w+sunlike&qid=1555078123&s=gateway&sr=8-3-fkmrnull if anyone is interested, I know people have asked for grow light recommendations and these have done pretty well for me so far. The lights are about 6-8" away from the plants.
I bought this one a couple weeks ago, it works great so far. My only complaint is it doesn't have a timer or anything built in. I just bought this also (I have a lot of plants to cover lol), I think the light spectrum might be different, and it also has a timer built in so you can set it to stay on for 6 or 12 hours or something. They both are able to just clamp on to the edge of your bookshelf.
You could also get a power strip with a timer built in, that way you can plug the light(s) into it and they'll come on each day automatically, and you don't have to worry about buying a specific light with one included.
HI! I have been growing my seedlings and some plants under a grow light ( ttps://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C68N7PC ) for reference. I was hoping to migrate them out to my porch in a few days but I was concerned about sun scorching? Will it be a problem to move them out, or will they be fine because they have been under the grow light for 16hrs a day? Thanks!
Top tier has 2x Relassy 45W LED Grow Lights Goosenecks.
Bottom tier has 2x ACKE 20W Warm White LED Grow Light Panels.
I am just getting into the hobby so I don't have any real results, but I posted the same question here a few weeks ago and was recommended this: https://www.amazon.com/Quantum-Board-Grow-Bloom-4000K/dp/B076QDKVDZ?ref_=bl_dp_s_web_18674157011
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I ordered it and like it so far. Very bright, lightweight (I am holding it in place with only a few zip ties), and doesn't get too hot. They also make a bigger one if you're going to have a lot of plants: https://www.amazon.com/Quantum-Board-Grow-Bloom-3000K/dp/B07C59J8L2?ref_=bl_dp_s_web_18674157011
So, I think I am going to order off Amazon... any advice on the HLG 100 vs the HLG 135?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C59J8L2#customerReviews
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https://www.amazon.com/Horticulture-Lighting-Group-USA-Quantum/dp/B07D9SP862/ref=sr_1_1?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1548979975&sr=1-1&keywords=hlg+135
a [HLG-100 V2 3000k]($150) would work well for two 5 gal fabric bag plants and should yield around 2-4oz a harvest once you get everything dialed in. It doesn't need any additional parts other than a pair of adjustable hangers($5-10) and a 24 hr timer(for setting 12/12 in flower). Something like this is great for ease of use, low heat, and efficiency. I'd suggest a combo of topping and low stress training(LST) to bush out your plants and increase yield, usually i'll shoot for 8/16 main cola heads however the veg time can be quite long with this method. Fabric pots are cheap and effective, and add some super soil(kinda pricey, but worth it) like fox farm ocean forest/ happy frog and you'll almost have enough packed in nutes to last you until flower. Supplement with budget cal/mag and some cheap flower fert like scott's super bloom and your good to go. Also never try to save time in the drying/curing step, by far the most important part imo and one of the most challenging to get right from my experience. Also you can def veg 4 plants under this but if you want a good yielding flower, 2 would be the sweet spot and you can always add another unit down the road.
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This company makes DIY kits as well for cheaper, however if pure cost to yield is your interest HPS/CMH are still two great options with a few more needed components(duct fans, tubing, light hood). Also check out cobs if your a DIY person. Not as much spread as the quantum boards but pretty damn efficient too.
def at least 4 for a tent that large. honestly you'd be better getting a few more powerful versions. 4 of the [100 watt version] (https://www.amazon.com/Quantum-Board-Grow-Bloom-3000K/dp/B07C59J8L2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1542073882&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=hlg+100) would beast out a 4x4 tent through flower. This 285 watt version could handle a 4x4 at veg but you may want to add some supplemental light at flower. And this 480 watt monster would be ideal, but it's getting pricey at that point.
if you are wiling to do a little wiring and buy you're own driver, you could buy just the boards for cheaper from the company on their website: https://horticulturelightinggroup.com. Then you could wire all the boards to a single driver and have a good set up for less cost.
Currently in the midst of dealing with a gnat problem. Here's what's worked for me so far:
There are lots of other redditors on this subreddit, /r/IndoorGarden , and /r/plantclinic who have faced the same issues, so have a look at their posts too to see what works for them (I see hydrogen peroxide is a common solution). Best of luck!
This worked in my worm bin and all my potted plants inside the house. It kills the larva in the soil before they become breeders breaking the life cycle.
I bubble some in a container for a couple hours then strain out the bits and water my plants with it. Get some yellow sticky traps for the adults flying around and you are set.
Mosquito Dunks 116-12 8-Ounce Quick Kill Mosquito Bits https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001LE1VC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_Y9Utxb7FEJXFZ
People mention this on here often
Mosquito Dunks 116-12 8-Ounce Quick Kill Mosquito Bits https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001LE1VC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_IQCazbP0A7CT4
I used a product called Mosquito Dunks to get rid of my gnat problem. Worked like a charm.
They’re granules that kill mosquito larvae in ponds and standing water but also kill fungus Gnats. Here’s a link to amazon but you can find it in Lowes or Home Depot if you’re in the US.
These are great for all flies:
Clear fly paper that you can stick to a wall or window and remove easily: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001QBPP66/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_d.9OCb2WA1D7B
These kill fungus gnats: Quick Kill Mosquito Bits https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001LE1VC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ua-OCbHNTK5J4
Both are safe for pets. If you have plants that’s where the fungus gnats are likely laying their eggs. You know if you have fruit flies because when you kill them their abdomen will have stripes. Setting out soap/vinegar traps should kill most of the adults.
Yes. Before you attack the problem you have to get certain ID on the pest first. Buy some of these to catch the flyers to examine under a loupe. Compare it to images on google and get the necessary pesticides. If you want to skip all that (not recommended) then go ahead because I do. If you have seen them consistently, chances are they probably laid eggs in your substrate. Attack the cycle not the individual. Most efficient way personally for me was a combination of a biological pesticide + mechanical. This + This + the yellow sticky traps = gnat free within 12 hours (atleast for me). The brown shit works like Diat. Earth by cutting up the bodies of the insect (but its in granules instead of powder and won't harm you if you touch it), the mosquito dunks is a fungus that attacks mosquito and gnat larva. The dunks are SUPPOSED to be a mechanical + bio method but it doesn't cut up the baby ones for me, only the adults so I have to substitute with the brown granules. There is an organic form of the brown granules that do the cutting but it was more expensive so I didn't buy it.
Edit: Mix the dunks and granules at a 1:1 ratio and pepper it over your topsoil.
Mosquito bits and/or Neem oil are all you need for gnats!
The bits kill the larvae in the soil and the neem oil makes the adults go crazy that they forget to eat, breed, or even fly!
EDIT: a great source for info on neem oil.
Bacillus thuringiensis
Foamaster. Slightly smaller version of the NuCalgon coil gun. Half the price. Originally bought it to wash my car before I saw the NuCalgon version in RE Michel one day. Works pretty good! There's cheaper versions on Amazon. Adjustable dilution for different lighter or heavier soil buildup.
I wouldn't buy it myself. Heres what I would buy it's cheaper and get the same results. Soap Foam Gun Wash Mitt Drying for about $60. It's what I started out with and I still use gold class every now and again and the foam gun for my Motorcycles.
Prima stuff: http://www.primacarcare.com/
Foamer I use: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000Y190WE/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Grit Guard for your buckets (FFS buy two and two buckets): http://www.amazon.com/Grit-Guard-Wash-Bucket-Insert/dp/B000N3W8J0/ref=pd_bxgy_lg_img_z
Adam's Car Wash: http://www.adamspolishes.com/
Monster MF Extra Thick Towels: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001UFK9NM/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Amazon linkified!
My favorite scent by Chemical Guys is their Mr. Pink soap. Smells like bubblegum. Detailer's Pro line makes something called Xtreme Foam that smells like spearmint gum and is very great - but it's kind of pricey to me.
I use this foam gun and I'm very happy with it. The sprayer is extremely high quality and I find that it definitely helps in my wash process - plus it's fun to use! The canister detaches from the sprayer easily. It also makes no noise - I think pressure washers can be kind of noisy if that has any bearing on your decision. Anyway, if you do go another route and put another package together be sure to post it!
https://www.amazon.ca/Gilmour-Foamaster-II-Cleaning-Sprayer/dp/B000Y190WE
Use this and it works well for what it is
The Gilmour Foamaster II (same thing) is available on amazon for $39.99 Prime - For those that are just looking for the foam gun.
These however do not foam like a pressure washer lance, so some people will be disappointed if that's what they're looking for.
This is what I use: Gilmour sprayer
You don't get a super thick layer of foam like the pressure washer ones do, but it's a very easy and convenient way to put soapy water on your car.
example: foamed up
Oh, maybe I misspoke. I have this that hooks to a garden hose, I didn’t realize there were pressure washer versions.
Not at all. I use this one with Chemical Guys honeydew snowfoam.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000Y190WE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I have quite a process now for this car.
I use the 2 bucket method with the following:
My Process
Extra stuff:
At first this took me almost 2 hours to wash my car, but after doing it every other week I'm now down to only an hour. It's extreme but it's detailed and allows me to also check if there are any rock chips, which I can then cover with some touch up paint.
The Gilmour Foamaster II is probably what you're looking. I bought a Chinese knock off of Amazon (Canada) for a fraction of the cost of the Gilmour with great success! While you're not going to get the same level of foam as you would with a pressure washer foam cannon, this will do the job and provide you enough lubricity for your washing medium to glide across your paint!
Edit:
https://amzn.com/B019MIV72K - Chinese Knock Off version
https://amzn.com/B000Y190WE - Gilmour Foamaster II
Dude, there are tons of humane mice traps that are just as effective. Earn double bonus points from Jesus and adopt a homeless snake to feed them to.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000YFA7HW
There are these humane traps which are catch & release traps (for example)... and other people use quick kill snap traps.
No matter what you choose, it's better than using rodenticide which doesn't even kill the animals fast but makes them suffer and then the animal that eats them (the hawks, the coyotes, etc) then suffer afterwards. Even your own pets like your dogs and cats can die from the rodenticide or eating an animal affected by rodenticide.
There are non-lethal traps you can buy. Just search "humane mouse trap".
Here's one: http://www.amazon.com/Smart-Mouse-Trap-Humane-Mousetrap/dp/B000YFA7HW
In that case: https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Mouse-Trap-Humane-Mousetrap/dp/B000YFA7HW
I utterly respect your point of view. Do not put the trap away after catching one or two mice, there are always more.
We tried everything to get two mice out of our place, and after trying 5+ types of traps, this one caught them each within an hour of putting it out. Plus, it's a humane trap, so it just traps them and you go let them go ffar away. we've had no problems since catching our two in this thing.
I used this (smart mouse trap)[http://www.amazon.com/Smart-Mouse-Trap-Humane-Mousetrap/dp/B000YFA7HW] and it worked well for 3 mice so far. They're so cute and they get so scared in the cage but I just release them in the woods nearby. Thing is... I hear they may not survive very long if you release them
Agree that glue traps are absolutely terrible.
I really recommend humane mouse traps that catch and keep alive. I just went through mice problems in my basement. I caught 6 mice using one of these before finally figuring out how they were getting in and have had no more issues. I'd catch each mouse and then drive to the local park to release them.
When I was younger my Dad caught a mouse in the glue trap and the poor mouse was tugging the trap all over the house trying to get free but getting himself more and more stuck until my dad put him out of his misery.
There are some great humane traps on Amazon. I have used these 2 and they have worked great. I just transfer the mice to a bin and drive them out to the woods.
http://www.amazon.com/Smart-Mouse-Trap-Humane-Mousetrap/dp/B000YFA7HW
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WB13QC/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_3?pf_rd_p=1944687782&amp;pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&amp;pf_rd_t=201&amp;pf_rd_i=B000YFA7HW&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_r=1W0D8NTC5E1QYAC1Y5VZ
Here is also a Youtube channel that discusses many different types of traps and provides a lot of good information.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m1hjFB77Ia4
Wow, this is just awful. I'm not entering but it's a bit "shocking" to me that so many are "laughing" and joking about killing sentient beings.
I totally get that you need mice out of your house. I wouldn't want them in either, but I would never kill them, much less joke about their death and more ways to kill them. They want to live as much as you do. We can't truly be a civil society unless we live and let live. Humane Mouse trap. I think you could use that.
There are a number of fairly readily-available humane/no-kill traps that basically are a long box with a lure in it, with some sort of pressure-plate or something that once a slight weight is sensed, slams shut the entrance of the trap. This contains the critter therein, without snapping its neck or so forth. So long as they're checked regularly/daily, this should result in a live capture of the critter.
Here's about 5 seconds of googling's results:
http://www.amazon.com/Smart-Mouse-Trap-Humane-Mousetrap/dp/B000YFA7HW
http://www.amazon.com/Mice-Cube-Pk-Reusable-Humane/dp/B000WB13QC
http://lifehacker.com/5811880/make-a-no+kill-mousetrap-with-a-jar-and-a-nickel
http://www.instructables.com/id/Simple--No-Kill--Mouse-Trap/
I have a Masterbuilt 30" electric smoker. This model https://www.amazon.com/Masterbuilt-20070910-30-Inch-Electric-Controller/dp/B00104WRCY but it looks like they make a newer one that is slightly cheaper now.
I also use a smokin cube with traeger hickory pellets for smoke instead of the built-in chip tray.
I think it's absolutely worth it for steaks. It adds a really nice savory smoky flavor, and the crust you get is extra crispy.
I just bought this it's great:
Masterbuilt 20070910 30-Inch Black Electric Digital Smoker, Top Controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00104WRCY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_JfbkJwaml3tBu
Same price on Amazon
I've had great luck using Masterbuilt electric smokers. I had this one, now have this.
Ours tend to get worn out much faster than usual, using it 6ish hours a day, 5-6 days a week. I prefer the digital one instead of guessing with a dial to try and get the temp right.
One I use.
https://www.amazon.com/EcoPlus-Submersible-Aquarium-Fountain-Hydroponics/dp/B0018X2XT4/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;ref=yo_pop_d_pd_t2
One I use in my tank as part of my filter:
https://www.amazon.com/Active-Aqua-Submersible-Water-Pump/dp/B002JPGE6S/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;ref=yo_pop_d_pd_t2
As long as it's strong enough to pump water to your tank it should be fine. Stronger will of course be better for speed and getting water there. I happened to have first one because I had to replace it with second as it was too strong to use as part of my filter.
Another thread suggested this 20w pump with this fitting and I've been happy with it for the 6 months I've had it. I run my pump 24/7 to keep the water circulating and so far still working fine
This is the one I use: Ecoplus 396-gph. It's a classic that a lot of homebrewers use, and was recommended by /u/homebrewfinds.
>Does hydroton need to be soaked for a long time to not float in your grow bed?
No. But you want to rinse it extremely well. It always arrives dusty. So it will soak up initial water that way. Typically if your pebbles start to float, it means your water level is too high. The weight of the media above the water line should be enough to keep the entire bed from floating.
>What volume should I assume for my system when buying a pump
Don't think too hard about this. You will have around 25-30 gallons of water that will be circulating. You're going to need a ball valve regardless of your pump size, because with a flood and drain system you need to be able to regulate the duration of your cycle. This is my favorite cheap pump.
My warning to you: You are really pushing the lower limit of what a system can be. The less water available to the system, the more tiny imbalances can completely throw off the water chemistry. You're going to be dealing with very abrupt swings in your pH, dKH, and nitrate and will probably need to monitor them daily. Consider adding an overflow to the fish tank and a 20 gallon sump, with the pump in the sump.
This one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0018X2XT4/
And this adapter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AB5X28G/
If you have an IC already you can do the first part using a pond pump fairly cheap, here is one for $28. Can't speak to how good that one is, but I'm just saying there are cheap options out there.
A bit overkill but I flush the rads with a pond pump + filter using distilled water for 6 hours.
> Regarding the snipping of the ends... i'm not snipping all of the leaves... just the ends and I immediately dip my cuts in aloe vera.
I'm a little confused, all the videos on taking clones I saw had the grower cutting off 30%-50% of the tip of all the clones leaves. So 2 inch leaf ends up 1"-1.5 inch long. This is what I did and what I assume you did. I didn't mean to imply it doesn't work, I was trying to point out how/why it works (less transpiration vs encouraging root growth)
> What supplies did you purchase to get that setup? 2 buckets and what is that machine pump ?
[Water Pump]
(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0018X2XT4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1)
360 Spray Nozzle
(2) 5 gallon buckets from home depot
(1) 4" long 1/2" connector from pump to 'T' piece of PVC
(6) 2" black foam inserts for holding plant stems
long piece of PVC and more 90 degree and 'T' pieces of PVC
> So far it's worked tremendously fast. So it does work. Perhaps not the best method, but works!
Lots of cloning methods work great, I chose my method b/c being a total noob at it I figured I needed every advantage I could get.
I got this one:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0018X2XT4/ref=oh_details_o07_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
So I just run hose water until the wort gets down to about 110 or 100. Then I hook my IC up to this pump sitting in an ice bath and just recirculate the water until it gets down to pitching temp.
> Also, can anyone possibly point me to any cheaper alternatives to a thermometer/hygrometer? eg something more generic, not specific for reptiles.. my local pet store wants $35 a pop for them
this is the go to hygro/thermometer. As a note, the probe reads temp only, and the display reads both temp and humidity, most put the display on cool side and probe on warm
Hey! Thanks for all the great info you've posted in this thread and all others. One thing I've noticed however is that your resources recommend this therm/hygrometer, but the product description indicates that it measures indoor humidity at the unit itself, not at the probe location. Assuming you use a unit similar to this one, do you have the unit mounted inside the enclosure somehow? If not, how do you get an accurate humidity reading from inside?
EDIT this link you provided below shows the same thermo/hygro unit attached to the inside of the tub with adhesive velcro strips - something I've been very thoroughly warned against by your link to that poor injured corn that ended up dying.
Oh those little round plastic ones? If so, there are a couple different problems here I think -
Those plastic dial thermometer/hygrometers are pretty much just garbage. If you want to get a better reading of what ambient temps are, I would look into digital ones like Acurite. This is the one I use which comes with a probe that can stick on to the side of the tank. There's also one that's like $11-$12 but it just sits on the bottom.
Another problem is UTH are designed to only heat the direct surface above where they're positioned, so they don't have much of an impact on the ambient temp. The best way to measure a UTH's heat is with a temperature gun, which takes a reading directly from the surface. They're about $20 on Amazon. If you used a temp gun on that UTH's surface you'd likely be surprised by how hot it is; actually, a UTH unregulated by a thermostat can get dangerously hot for an animal to touch.
What you might want to look into is a ceramic heat emitter; it's an unlighted bulb that screws into a heat lamp and it'll heat the air temperatures below the lamp. You'd probably have to experiment with different wattages or get a dimmer for it to get temps around what you'd want
(http://www.amazon.com/Compare-N-Save-Concentrate-Outdoor-Control-32-Ounce/dp/B00ARKSABO
). Main ingredient in many of those bayer garden pesticides. Short lived so as long as you are not too far into flower shouldn't cause any issues. This is your not-fuckin-around option.
I bought a small bottle of the mosquito dunk granules several years ago. The bottle has sat outside (in sheltered spot) and they still work just fine. They seem kind of pricey but a little goes a long way and they don't seem to go bad.
I put about a tablespoon of mosquito bits on top and mixed it in. BT is good for fungus gnats and my wifes figs were infected so peroxide isn't a great choice. On top of which I mixed this soil and let it set for 3 weeks just to get the right things going.
you probably wouldn't need too deep an ipm. neem oil or azidirachtin spray while in veg every week would be ok. add some crushed up mosquito dunks to your medium to tale care of any soil gnats (you want the stuff with BTi in it https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001LE1VC/ )
that would be fine for most indoor grows imo. i have plants in and outdoors and my ipm is a little more rounded, but i only use stuff when i need it, except for caterpillars outside. that's a weekly spray.
Summit 116-12 Quick Kill Mosquito Bits, 8-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001LE1VC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LvYOBbXR4S9M1
That’s what I use and a little goes a long way. So worth the $$. Another thing that helps is I always have a ceiling fan on for air flow. Seems to keep the gnats away too. My house is a jungle and I rarely ever see a gnat! Best of luck :)
When I ordered orchid pots from a store online they gave me some of this stuff for free: Summit 116-12 Quick Kill Mosquito Bits, 8-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001LE1VC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jl3JDb43N6AAF
Mosquito Bits or Dunks will kill them.
I know you're looking for more gentle solutions, but if you ever have to pull out the big guns (I had no choice), I've had success with sprinkling mosquito dunks on the soil surface.
yes! i use this:
https://www.amazon.com/Summit-116-12-Quick-Mosquito-8-Ounce/dp/B0001LE1VC/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=mosquito+bits&qid=1556469075&s=gateway&sr=8-4
&#x200B;
you can let them float in a little bowl of water near your plants to attract and kill them but i don't like the look of that so i just pour some into my watering can and allow them to sit on the top of the wet soil in my plants. i did it twice recently (during my routine watering) and now i am gnat free again! and thank you so much!! :)
I have a fungus gnat issue too. I’ve been using sticky stakes to catch them but I’ve noticed it doesn’t actually solve the problem in the soil. A lot of people have been recommending mosquito bits to me so I’ll be trying these out. Good luck!
Sounds like fungus gnats. You can use that dish soap method, but when I had delicate venus fly traps I used mosquito bits which you basically sprinkle in before the next watering.
I use these mosquito bits, which also control fungus gnat larvae when watered into the soil.
Edit: /u/juanitospeppers posted it first, but I'll leave this, as that link didn't work for me.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0001LE1VC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This is the one I purchased and only used a pinch of
http://www.amazon.com/Gilmour-95QGFMR-Foamaster-Cleaning-Sprayer/dp/B000Y190WE
Or, pick up a foam gun if you don't have a foam cannon & power washer.
Foam down the car, rinse it, and then dry as usual with a proper microfiber towel and drying aid of your choice.
I used this before I got a pressure washer
https://www.amazon.com/Gilmour-Cleaning-Foamaster-Multi-ratio-1609706073/dp/B000Y190WE/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?keywords=Gilmour+Cleaning+Sprayer+Foamaster+II+Multi-Ratio+Spray+Gun&amp;qid=1564550736&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-2-spons&amp;psc=1&amp;spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyNklFVkk3VDM2T0hSJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjE0MDg4NVlUUUVQSjRSVzhEJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA2MzQ3NzJJV0U2SklISFM1VEwmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
(Sorry for long link)
It works ok but I needed to use a lot of soap to get it to foam well and even then it was kinda watery foam. But if you only have a garden hose I would recommend something like this.
I was using the Gilmour Foammaster to wash my car but upgraded to a pressure washer. Since then I’ve been using the Gilmour for lawn/weed chemicals and works great for me.
Gilmour Cleaning Sprayer Foamaster II Multi-ratio Spray Gun 1609706073 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Y190WE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8KPCDbTP3DRZW
We are happy with this cheapo one. We quat foam lots of things with it including the floor, canning line, etc. And sometimes we acid foam vessels we want to shine up.
https://www.amazon.com/Gilmour-Foamaster-Cleaning-Sprayer-95QGFMR/dp/B000Y190WE/ref=sr_1_1
I have been washing my truck with the 2 bucket method. I just watched a junkman video on his 2 bucket method, and he recommends using a foam cannon to loosen and remove most of the dirt and grime. Do the foam cannons really make a difference? I found this one online.
Another question - Can someone critique my overall process for paint correction? I have a griots garage DA, have 2 orange pads and 2 white pads, meg's ultimate compound and meg's 205 polish, as well as menzerna sealant.
I plan on washing the car w/ 2 bucket method (I use chemical guy's Mr. Pink), claying the car using Mr. Pink soap + water, then rinsing the car and dry with a waffle weave towel.
Then I plan to try to polish a section (white pad and polish) and wipe it down with isopropanol and a MF towel. Which dilution ratio should I use, 10% or 50% IPA/water? If I need a stronger cut, I will move onto compound (orange pad and ultimate compound), and once again wipe down with isopropanol and MF towel. Then follow up with polish again.
Then I want to apply a sealant, and I plan on using menzerna powerlock with a foam applicator (one of these guys) and apply a thin coat and let it settle overnight. Does this sound reasonable?
I'd get a fine grade nanoskin mitt or something similar for decon. Maybe a foam gun or foam lance and some soap. Might want to grab an APC for interior cleaning, although I think you can dilute ONR down as an APC... I really like Optimum APC though, very safe and effective.
I saw this today on slickdeals, choose subscribe & save to get it down to $13.35: 1-Gallon Chemical Guys Maxi-Suds II Super Suds Car Wash
Yes it is, you're adding more lubrication to your paint to minimize the chances of scratching the paint when washing. Check this one out http://www.amazon.com/Gilmour-95QGFMR-Foamaster-Cleaning-Sprayer/dp/B000Y190WE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1422562217&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=gilmore+foam+gun I have this and I like it and it's 20 bucks cheaper. You should shop around on other sites, Auto geek has lots products and all but they're not always the cheapest. Oh and buy at least two grit guards for your two bucket washing.
I was using THIS before I decided to get one for the pressure washer. It works pretty decent, but it's nowhere near as good as one that hooks to a pressure washer.
This is the one I use. It hasn't done me wrong yet. Good for quick washes or washing before a good detail. I just use straight car soap into it and you can adjust the mixture.
Gilmour Foamaster II Cleaning Gun Sprayer
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Y190WE/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_2a1qybZ0K6BHB
Nah, it's just a normal hose attachment. It's the Gilmour Foamaster II gun. It seemed like it was the highest rated for ones under $50 so figured I'd give it a shot. It does great, it definitely puts a nice layer of foam on the car. I am using Chemical Guys Mr. Pink wash. The foam gun is here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000Y190WE/
You need a pressure washer for that one. I used to use this when I didn't have a pressure washer.
They do make live mouse traps if you want to let them go outside
I couldn't kill the mice in our house either. I got this Smart Mouse humane trap and it works fantastically.
Maybe try feeding him and giving him water because rubbing with oil or alcohol and removing the animal seems to be the only way, meanwhile get a live mouse trap for next time.
Here's a solution.
I think that there are mouse traps out there that catch them that don't hurt them....you should buy those. Then release the mice a few miles away from where you found them.
look, a mouse house
but thank you for being a compassionate human being, and washing off the little fella.
Get a reusable humane mousetrap, and make sure you take them for a 5 mile car ride at least before you let them go. I use this in a visible place, so i know when I've caught something. It works great, and I've had it for years.
Once you think you've caught them all, you also want to patch all of the holes both inside and outside to help prevent future infestations.
Never let rodents run around your house though. They chew wires which can set your house on fire.
Another humane alternative:
http://www.amazon.com/Smart-Mouse-Trap-Humane-Mousetrap/dp/B000YFA7HW
Mine were Russian Dwarf. It is possible it squeezed out below the front door but not guaranteed. You're doing all the right things, I am sorry your roommate doesn't feel like helping in any way, that's terrible. Just keep doing what you are doing, they are so tiny they could fit in anywhere. It's challenging. The no-kill traps worked for me and you might consider purchasing one, you'll need a small one, like this. There is even a double pack so you could set them up in a couple different areas.
Right, I have a much cheaper solution;
http://www.amazon.com/Smart-Mouse-Trap-Humane-Mousetrap/dp/B000YFA7HW
Bait with peanut butter. Works errytime.
Reusable Humane No Kill Mouse Trap, Endorsed by Humane Societies and Animal Rights Organizations in the U.S. and Worldwide.
This one works just as good as any other but no killing necessary.
This is the trap I used. It's not sensitive enough to go off like it should. But I weighed it down with rodent food pellets. So then his weight added to them set it off.
I know that rodents are often seen as pests, but there are humane options out there. Everything else promotes suffering and it's really not necessary. I bought the Smart Mouse humane mousetrap on amazon and it worked like a charm, catching multiple mice a day: http://www.amazon.com/Smart-Mouse-Trap-Humane-Mousetrap/dp/B000YFA7HW
You don't have to touch the mice...just check the trap every couple of hours and reset when necessary. Drive them down the street and dump them in a different neighborhood. You and your girlfriend can live guilt-free that way. And the only way you're going to keep them out of your apartment is by finding how they're getting in and stuffing the holes (the Smart Mouse has directions on how).
If we were talking about a puppy infestation all of the other options would appall the majority of people. That's how I feel about buckets full of water, glue traps, and snap traps. Good luck!
http://www.amazon.com/Smart-Mouse-Trap-Humane-Mousetrap/dp/B000YFA7HW
Better, endorsed by a rodent lover... A fall from that high could seriously injure the mouse.
I don't know your budget, a Traeger looks nice but $$$$$$. I just got a Masterbuilt 30" Gen II electric however i think the Gen 1 are better and a better buy
Masterbuilt Gen 1
I like mine however, the temp controller seems to be off about 10+ degrees on the high side. I actually have to contact the company and see if they can get me a new controller.
I"m not sure if the 40" masterbuilts have the same issue or not but keep in mind that you should probably verify the temp of the electric smoker controllers no matter which one you get.
A huge resource if you want to do some research is Smoking Meat Forums
https://www.amazon.com/Masterbuilt-20070910-30-Inch-Electric-Controller/dp/B00104WRCY
I have the older model and there were complaints of quality and such. I have had it over a year outside in Texas weather and no issues and no cover. Yeah, you won't get the smoke ring, but it will make some tasty food!
This is the one I got:
http://www.amazon.com/Masterbuilt-20070910-30-Inch-Electric-Smokehouse/dp/B00104WRCY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1397051004&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Masterbuilt
Cool. What did you get?
I'm on my 2nd electric smoker. My first was a super cheap/simple brinkmann bullet that survived about 5 years.
I highly recommend getting a remote thermometer like this as well.
The easiest things to make are pork shoulder and salmon. Ribs and brisket are the most difficult in my experience. Chicken is right in the middle...depending on how hot your smoker can get, rendering the skin can require grilling at the end.
It's a fun hobby. I love turning cheap cuts into deliciousness.
Masterbuilt 30-inch Electric Smoker
$177.66 shipped, brand new
730 in.^2
Goes up to 275°
Set-and-forget constant temperature for long, slow smokes
Wood chip dispenser
link
I've used the propane version as well...a few less bells and whistles, but it feels a little more like smoking rather than baking.
I personally started smoking on a Masterbuilt Electric Smoker ($150 to $180 at a Lowes Home Depot, Wal-Mart). You never have to worry about temps, they seal well, and its cheap to experiment with chips and recipes on. I eventually outgrew it after a couple of years and picked up a Pit Barrel Cooker, knowing more of what I actually wanted and would use. I kept my Masterbuilt and now use it for Jerky and light smokes, like fish and fajita meats...might want to check it out. That Masterbuilt put out some pretty kick-ass shoulders and ribs and it was frustration free for the most part.
This is very similar to what I have....just a few years older: https://www.amazon.com/Masterbuilt-20070910-30-Inch-Electric-Controller/dp/B00104WRCY $134.
Also, they make a cold-smoke add on for $50, I plan on picking up for it in the future. https://www.amazon.com/Masterbuilt-20070112-Smoking-Digital-Smokers/dp/B008DF6WWE
forget those prices, masterbuilt electric 30" smoker with a mailbox add on.
https://smile.amazon.com/Masterbuilt-20070910-30-Inch-Electric-Controller/dp/B00104WRCY/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487093731&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=masterbuilt+30%22+smoker
http://s29.photobucket.com/user/DVicari/media/Smoking/DSC00635_zpsqrhtpkv9.jpg.html
for me, i didnt use a mailbox, but i have 2 terracotta clay pots, one bigger than the other. i have the bigger one on top, so they sit together like a boston shaker
http://www.livinggreenandfrugally.com/wp-content/uploads/DIY-Homemade-Barbecue-Smoker.jpg
i dont use the mailbox as i didnt want any chemicals from the paint or zinc to get in the food. so i have my smoker elevated, and just an L shape going from the side to right over my clay pots. i dont use any tape or connective stuff. there's like a 2" air gap between top of clay pot and aluminum HVAC tubing into smoker, but it's fine, the smoke/heat just rise up into my smoker.
in the clay pots you can use wood chips or pellets, or whatever. i put some steel scrubber pads in the bottom of the inside of the clay pots to give it more room for air flow. i have the bottom clay pot on a few landscaping bricks to allow good airflow into the bottom of it. my whole setup is less than $250 and it's solid as a rock. i don't need to spend twice that on a trager.
the only problem is you need to allow room for the air to move around inside. it has 4 racks, but at most i've been able to use 3 to make sure good air flow happens. don't let meat on adjacent racks touch, and don't have the meat touch the sides, which would block some air flow.
Well here's the model i'm looking at, I think I'm going to order it next week and try it next weekend with a few racks of ribs and a sauce my wife makes. I'm a little nervous bit it's trial and error, wish me luck.
http://www.amazon.com/Masterbuilt-20070910-30-Inch-Electric-Controller/dp/B00104WRCY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1414362085&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=masterbuilt+electric+smoker
I'm not sure why the reviews are poor on that website. I only linked that site because it was the lowest price I could find for that model. Here is the Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/Masterbuilt-20070910-30-Inch-Electric-Controller/dp/B00104WRCY. The reviews are much better there.
Regarding the premium, the ash wiper is great! I keep my kettle covered after it cools. Otherwise, some rain could trickle through the top ventilation holes and create a thick mixture with the ashes still inside of the kettle.
If you season it and keep it covered after it cools, that grill is the best starting place for grilling and learning to smoke utilizing the snake method. Very popular. You can read up more on smoking at amazingribs.com.
When you take off the ash catcher, it is its own container with a handle. I'm not sure where you live, but it's worth a visit to a Lowes, Home Depot, etc. to take a look at one.
Again, many will agree the Weber kettle premium is a great piece of equipment that can grill anything and smoke nearly anything.
I have smoked pork butts on mine, made beer can chicken, smoked ribs, smoked chicken, smoked sausage, and grilled dang near anything I could think of (chicken, steaks, pork steaks, pork loin, brats, burgers, etc.) on mine.
here you go
Hmm, first thing amazon compares it to is the Masterbuilt
I like the idea of keeping the food area closed (retaining heat) while the wood chips / fuel gets added.
I really liked the electric one I built because it maintained a temp really easily.
Edit: has anyone used one of these?
Haha no joke the one I have is on lightning deal RIGHT NOW on Amazon. Normal price was 160, current is 129. On sale for 3 more hours! AWMF was so great - I really need the next actual book to come out. Rothfuss is an incredible storyteller.
I have a masterbuilt. It is the size of a mini-fridge.
I am a lazy man and so the electric smoker is my jam. Maybe not competition worthy meat... but it is sooo good. My masterbuilt you just set temp with controller (Never worry about temps again)... add meat and water/vinegar to a reservoir. It has a built in meat probe that also displays for you.
Not sure if this is the exact model, but basically this.
http://www.amazon.com/Masterbuilt-20070910-30-Inch-Electric-Controller/dp/B00104WRCY/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1420656605&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=masterbuilt
Edit:Few details
I haven't read much about indoor smokers. Maybe an electric smoker he can plug into a wall inside? You'll have to research how safe that is and how good they.
https://www.amazon.com/Masterbuilt-20070910-30-Inch-Electric-Controller/dp/B00104WRCY
I'd suggest this one: https://www.amazon.com/Masterbuilt-20070910-30-Inch-Electric-Controller/dp/B00104WRCY
it's simple and does the job. I've had this exact one for about 2 years now and I've even traveled with it to friend's houses. Make sure you get it without the window but controlled digitally. The window will only let heat escape and it will get completely dirty after the first use and you won't be able to view in very easy.
I have even set this for an over night cook with a brisket. Started it at 8 pm and took it off at 11 am. All i had was a meat probe to check the temp and had an alarm set if the bbq was too low or the meat hit the correct temp.
Yep, Masterbuilt electric smoker. Works pretty good, my first smoker of any kind. That is the water pan and wood tray that it came with. http://www.amazon.com/Masterbuilt-20070910-30-Inch-Electric-Controller/dp/B00104WRCY
I bought the Masterbuilt 30" on Amazon and am super pleased. If you don't have the time to keep the heat at the same temp, then get an electric... I like to put it in, let it go for 3 hours (walk away, do yard work, etc) then come back and put some more chips in...
Here's the smoker I have, electric is the way to go. With electric you don't have to watch it as close. I went with the 30 and wish I got the 40 (the 40 is also cheaper now). http://www.amazon.com/Masterbuilt-20070910-30-Inch-Electric-Controller/dp/B00104WRCY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1425837089&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=masterbuilt+electric+smoker
Also this - http://www.amazon.com/Smoking-Meat-Essential-Guide-Barbecue/dp/1770500383/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1425837163&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=smoking+meat
800 watt i believe.
its this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00104WRCY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Can essentially cook enough meat to feed 10-15 ppl in about 3-4 hrs and smells wonderful while it does it
I had to google it but it's a Masterbuilt 30" vertical smoker
Thanks.
This is the one I'm considering right now. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00104WRCY/ref=s9_simh_gw_p86_t1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_s=center-2&amp;pf_rd_r=00V1A0XAFTBQHMH9SZTA&amp;pf_rd_t=101&amp;pf_rd_p=470938631&amp;pf_rd_i=507846
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00104WRCY/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1374629752&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=AC_SX110_SY190
It's a mes30
http://imgur.com/a/eM0M2 I just made one of these. Works really really well for cheap. Get one of these pumps.
Basically am trying to get out, could this , http://www.amazon.com/EcoPlus-728310-Submersible-Pump-396GPH/dp/B0018X2XT4/ref=sr_1_5?s=lawn-garden&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1398359780&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=water+pump+electric, power a 50ft hose if you provided the water source and electricity?
The 396 gph version isn't much more expensive. To keep from using too much ice, you could start by letting the pot rest on its own for a few minutes (try a hop stand!), then switch to cold tap water through the pump, then switch that out for ice water. The key is just maintaining a high differential between the wort and whatever you're cooling with.
Another option -- and this is a little off the wall -- is to use your shower. You could switch to a handheld shower, get a diverter, or get a showerhead with a splitter that would let you easily swap in your wort chiller. Handheld showers use a pretty standard 1/2" thread.
This one is supposed to fit on a Python hose. I forget who, but it was recommended by one of the bigger youtubers. I plan on getting one as it's faster than siphon power alone, and you don't need to leave your water running on your python to use it.
Sorry I'm a little late but here: http://www.amazon.com/EcoPlus-728310-Submersible-Pump-396GPH/dp/B0018X2XT4?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00
I actually just posted about this in another thread if you'd like to read about my process.
Thread
You need to look into an upgraded submersible pump and a tub/cooler for ice water. Being able to whirlpool would help as well.
Edit : This is the pump that I use and it does a great job.
Is this a full boil, or partial boil? I use a simple pump like this for partial boil to do immersion in a sink, so it gives me the cooling effect of immersion and water on the kettle itself. I do wish I went with a slightly stronger version like the 1083 GPH version. The different versions come with different sized connectors, so you may need a step up in tubing size for the higher GPH versions depending on the tubing you use.
The setup you want is pretty quiet. With the airstones on 24/7, set the top feed drip pump to come on a couple times a day and it will still be quieter than a window A/C unit
Air Pump
Drip pump
Very cool. I will warn you that this tank is long and heavy. It took two people to cary it into the house. Also water is heavy so this setup will weigh around a thousand pounds when filled with water. Our house is on a concrete slab so weight is not an issue for us.
My turtles are smaller than your slider so I have not tried to build my own basking area. I use large Zoo Med floating docs for my map and painted turtles.
These are what I use:
https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Turtle-Gallon-Tanks/dp/B00178LI50
They also make an extra large floating doc for larger turtles but I have not tried it out:
https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-78098-Turtle-X-Large/dp/B01AYBRVN8
I do not have a sump on the tank. I just run the FX6 and a UV sterilizer. Also the FX6 and power strip barely fit in the center compartment of that stand.
I used to use a syphon kit that I bought from the pet store to drain the water but that was expensive and a bit slow so I bought a cheap pump on Amazon and purchased a pipe to hose adapter at the hardware store. I start up the pump and let it run for a few minutes and then detach the hose so I can get the hose into the hard to reach corners of the tank.
Pump I use (it has a lot of different adapters for various tubing but no hose adapter):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0018X2XT4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
The adapter I have looks similar to this one except the one I have is male hose thread to 3/4" female pipe adapter (you can find these adapters in the irrigation section at Lowes and Home Depot):
http://www.homedepot.com/p/DIG-3-4-in-Female-Hose-Thread-x-3-4-in-Male-Pipe-Thread-Swivel-Adapter-50007/100186564
I clean out the tank about once a month and clean reusable media and swap out filter floss and polishing pads. Even after a month my water is still clear and my ammonia and nitrites are at 0 but my nitrates are in the 40-60ppm range.
Older pics (pump I use with the adapter is in the second to last image in the gallery): https://imgur.com/a/2c4d0
Even older pics: https://imgur.com/a/xOieq
EcoPlus 396gph Submersible Pump -
$23.95$22.50This pump would be great for a chilling water re-circulation system
^1/6/2017 ^10:56am ^EST
I've used this one to recirculate ice water in a cooler through my immersion chiler.
I use this pump, and it's awesome for both draining and filling the tank - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0018X2XT4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1.
ecoplus has worked great for me, and they are a great value
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0018X2XT4/ref=sxts1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492282275&amp;sr=1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65
I purchased this pump from amazon.
EcoPlus 728310 Eco 396 Fixed Flow Submersible/Inline Pump 396 GPH
I am a bot programmed to automatically provide the following content by /u/_Ataraxia when summoned. Link to the most recent version of this content here
The first three links are detailed care sheets, then a tub tutorial, and the rest are product recommendations. read everything thoroughly, come back with any questions. Let /u/_Ataraxia know if any of the links don't work.
Glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. it's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.
Ball Python Care Guides
Set-up Recommendations
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https://www.amazon.com/Light-4lamps-DL824-Fluorescent-Hydroponic/dp/B009GU4RMC/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=grow+light+t&qid=1567157547&s=gateway&sr=8-3
https://www.amazon.com/Daylight-Spectrum-Vegetables-Greenhouse-Hydroponic/dp/B07RKTQ355/ref=sr_1_28?keywords=grow+light+cob&qid=1567157598&s=gateway&sr=8-28#customerReviews
A T5 or LED setup like the ones in the links should work pretty well. There are definitely still other cheaper options out there, but I haven't done my research on that end of the market so I rather not give you possibly incorrect information.
Im not sure about using this to grow them indoors but ive had success germinating and growing my veggies inside this season with this light - T5 Grow Light (2ft 4lamps) DL824 Ho Fluorescent Hydroponic Bloom Veg Daisy Chain with Bulbs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009GU4RMC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0smWAbD8VF8JA
https://smile.amazon.com/Light-4lamps-DL824-Fluorescent-Hydroponic/dp/B009GU4RMC/ref=sr_1_6?s=lawn-garden&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493949328&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=t5+grow+lights
something like that
just set up my T5 Grow Light
(http://www.amazon.com/Light-4lamps-DL824-Fluorescent-Hydroponic/dp/B009GU4RMC)
here http://i.imgur.com/UEwIS5N.jpg ... 10,000 lumens... you think that'll be good enough?
I use 4 T5 lights.
You want something like that for the first few weeks:
https://www.amazon.com/Light-4lamps-DL824-Fluorescent-Hydroponic/dp/B009GU4RMC
Meizhi LED lights are great, alternatively this T5 is fantastic... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B009GU4RMC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ZadbBbX9R537N
The fluorescent lights are 2ft. These ones: (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009GU4RMC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). I couldn't find 3ft lights I liked (although I think they would be too long), so I went with the 2ft and augmented them with a couple of simple reflectors with these bulbs: (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FYGDX3A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1).
&#x200B;
The whole setup is about 3ft wide. The shelving unit is a simple rolling set of shelves. For each shelf, I made a square frame and screwed wire mesh into it, otherwise the spacing on the shelves is too much and the pots tip over when trying to move them. Then the whole thing gets wrapped in a mylar emergency blanket. They're super reflective and keep a lot of the light in.
See, this is why I'm confused.. These are the exact fixtures that Natch had recommended and that he grew with these ones which they say are HO and are 24 watts.. So I'm not too sure why they're reading so low.
T5 HO
Also I would do some looking into the sidebar info as well as the search function
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009GU4RMC/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1506602011&amp;sr=8-5&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=t5+grow+lights&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=411ZLelTLqL&amp;ref=plSrch ugh I’m so sorry about the wrong link! My bookshelf doesn’t have strip lights. I just have these hung on each shelf. I cut a hole in the back of the bookshelf for the cord to go through too :) https://i.imgur.com/eJzYeUc.jpg
Let's go over a couple terms:
A watt measures power, or how fast something can do work; to continue the analogy, how fast a hose can fill a pool. You can fill it faster by either increasing the hose size (ie. using a firehose, or thicker wires), or turning the water pressure up so that it moves faster (increasing the voltage).
When you apply power over a period of time, you do work. We can measure work in watt-hours (Wh). Watts determine how fast your boat moves (just like HP on an engine), where watt-hours determine how far (just like how many gallons of fuel it takes).
If your trolling motor draws 300W, then it consumes 300Wh every hour.
Or, speaking in amps/amp-hours, 300W from a 12V battery would be 25A; in that case, it consumes 25Ah from your battery every hour.
Having said all that:
If you can find a place to mount it, I'd recommend this:
https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Watts-Volts-Monocrystalline-Starter/dp/B00BFCNFRM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485011099&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=renology+100w
Hook it up to your house / propulsion battery bank via the included controller.
A few notes:
A 30A trolling motor load on 200Ah of batteries (ie. 2x100Ah deep cycles) represents a draw of 15% of its capacity per hour, and it won't create much waste heat. You might get 4-5 hours of propulsion.
A 30A trolling motor load on a single 100Ah battery represents a draw of 30% of its capacity per hour, and the battery will warm up, wasting energy. You might only get 1.5-2 hours of propulsion (less than half the dual battery setup).
200Ah of batteries would be ideal, but would weigh between 100-150lb, which might be a consideration.
I've got two ideas:
Is this the kit you had in mind: http://www.amazon.com/Renogy-100W-Mono-Starter-Kit/dp/B00BFCNFRM? Thank you for the straightforwardness. Do you have a fuse box that you would suggest as well?
I never really considered solar energy before this post but I think I'm going to go for it, especially since I don't really have a need for a lot of power. Thanks again man!
I bought this kit many years ago to charge 12v batteries and it works great (though I got a better inverter as that one is a joke,and you need to provide your own battery).
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CIADLG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
but looking at amazon listings now it seems this is the most popular, affordable entry level kit (note that you are again providing your own inverter and battery):
http://www.amazon.com/Renogy-100W-Mono-Starter-Kit/dp/B00BFCNFRM/ref=zg_bs_2236628011_3
These both charge batteries. Wiring into you home is a much bigger undertaking.
It is unlikely that you will be able to power a heater with solar power; heaters simply require too much electricity. A sleeping bag rated for the temperature you will experience is probably the most effective thing for you.
A quick look at Amazon shows the Nintendo switch has a wall outlet power adapter that outputs 5v at 1.5a. Assuming that is correct, you can charge your electrical devices from a wall outlet at McDonalds or Starbucks, or from a cigarette lighter adapter in your car. If you won't be in cities or won't be driving daily, a small solar panel and battery (I like that battery for its dual inputs, which makes it charge twice as fast) will likely be sufficient. Price for solar panel and battery about $100.
If you need more electrical power, put a roof rack on your car, then buy a battery and a 100-watt kit from Renogy (the kit includes mounting hardware, cables, a solar controller and instructions to wire everything together). Price for solar panel kit and battery about $400.
Buy a couple large deep cycle batteries and a battery tender to keep them charged
For example, this battery:
https://www.amazon.com/Universal-UB121000-45978-100AH-Cycle-Battery/dp/B00S1RT58C/ is 100ah at 12v, which is roughly 1200 watt hours. For comparison, A 3.7v 20,000 mah phone power bank is 74 watt hours.
Get something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Chanzon-Cigarette-Terminal-Accessory-Inflator/dp/B07CQMQL9L/ to allow using your car charger with a standalone battery.
Add a 100w solar kit: https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Monocrystalline-Negative-Controller-Connectors/dp/B00BFCNFRM/ if you expect sunny weather during your power outages
It's a waste of space and energy since he's not grinding dried beans or crushing ice every morning, just pureeing some veggies into a smoothie. Sell it on Craigslist for ~$200 (those things are like $400 new - JEEZ) and you could buy a 100W solar panel with charge controller plus a hand blender that won't kill your battery.
for solar: (for starters since Im mainly using fans)https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Watts-Volts-Monocrystalline-Starter/dp/B00BFCNFRM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1501920037&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=solar+panel
I'll also use lucy lights which are solar
For water: I might use a tank with pump or a thera pump for 5 gallon jugs. It really depends on whats available up there.
Sheds: its a toss between this which included installation, http://www.conestogabuilders.com/strawberry/strawberry.htm
or the one from lowes: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Cedarshed-Farmhouse-Gable-Cedar-Storage-Shed-Common-16-ft-x-14-ft-Interior-Dimensions-11-5-ft-x-9-5-ft/999916833
the weather : the highest is around 75F and the lowest is around 35F. Rain wise about 4-5 inches every month.
Renogy 100 Watts 12 Volts Monocrystalline Solar Starter Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BFCNFRM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_A7twybFH176K5
Hey, thanks!
I'm going to go into detail on the equipment I bought with my next video (and I've got a really fascinating powerpoint presentation where I try to explain a little electrical theory without putting everyone to sleep). I'll answer your question here though:
I started with a kit that came with the wires you're asking about. The solar panels have those short (2 or 3 feet) wires that end with what's called an MC4 connector. The wires have the MC4 connector on one end, and a bare wire on the other. The MC4 is a weatherproof, snap-on connector.
For the second panel, I had to get the MC4-tipped cables separately. From browsing YouTube, it looks like you can save some money by buying the connectors alone and splicing them onto a wire. I didn't feel like messing with this.
I got all my stuff on Amazon. Here's the list:
The parts for my installation came out to a little over $400.
Hope that helps! :)
My boat didn't come with the solar setup, but I fitted them myself. You'll need the panel itself, a charge controller, and some sort of battery to store the charge. You could have the same sized system I have (without the battery included) for $200 bucks on amazon. http://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Watts-Volts-Monocrystalline-Starter/dp/B00BFCNFRM
Sorry for the late response... we spent some time on public land, no wi/fi!
You can get a cheap (but good) Renogy 100W kit: https://amzn.to/2JiRPh4, then shop locally for a small battery (in the 50-100 Ah).
Or you could just charge using your alternator with an isolator (cheap solution, but in this scenario you need to drive frequently).
If you don't want to worry about wiring/fuse etc, Goal Zero has good plug-and-play solutions but they're NOT CHEAP (https://amzn.to/2LFW04J).
Good luck!
Amazon has a 100 watt kit that looks to include what I need minus the battery and inverter. Would something like this be what I am after?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BFCNFRM/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1526590632&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=solar+panel+kit&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51tMu4DA-EL&amp;ref=plSrch
These can take half shade to full sun and you'll likely get stronger and more compact growth and better fruiting at closer to full sun. You're nowhere near that. This might work https://www.amazon.com/Light-4lamps-DL824-Fluorescent-Hydroponic/dp/B009GU4RMC/ref=sr_1_26?s=lawn-garden&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1466223033&amp;sr=1-26&amp;keywords=grow+light but this https://www.amazon.com/VIPARSPECTRA-Reflector--Spectrum-Indoor-Plants/dp/B015FLSOCE/ref=sr_1_16?s=lawn-garden&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1466223033&amp;sr=1-16&amp;keywords=grow+lightwould really do it if its in your budget. You could also go the High pressure sodium light route. But in general, start thinking brighter. Also be aware of the inverse square law. Light intensity drops off at the inverse square of the distance so for example at 3 feet you have 1/9 the light intensity you have at the source. So basically I would put whatever light as close to the plant as possible without causing heat stress or burning the leaves.
I mean, ive seen people have incredible results with this light
This or the 300W
Nothing is forever tho. Struggle through and grab a decent light when ya got some funds.
I'm actually going to use this light
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015FLSOCE/ref=asc_df_B015FLSOCE5282819/?tag=hyprod-20&amp;creative=395033&amp;creativeASIN=B015FLSOCE&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=193142362025&amp;hvpos=1o2&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=2837281691555801629&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvqmt=&amp;hvdev=m&amp;hvdvcmdl=&amp;hvlocint=&amp;hvlocphy=9005667&amp;hvtargid=pla-307774400559
http://www.amazon.com/VIPARSPECTRA-Reflector-Spectrum-Indoor-Plants/dp/B015FLSOCE?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00
You are at exactly 3 square feet. At a minimum you need 50 watts per square foot or 150 watts total for your space. So something like this would be fine: http://www.amazon.com/VIPARSPECTRA-Reflector--Spectrum-Indoor-Plants/dp/B015FLSOCE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1462999197&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=ViparSpectra
That includes a 3 year warranty which most panels do not.
That is 200 watts so it would put you at 66 watts per square foot. (Microgrowery recommends 50-80 watts per squarefoot, so this is fine)
Follow manufactures recommendation for height. Seedlings 36 inches, veg growth 24, flower 18"
I have 2 of these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015FLSOCE?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share for 5 plants.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015FLSOCE?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
That depends on how he's going to use the space. The 300s will give more coverage area, but the maximum PAR value will be less (by a substantial amount), so you won't get the same growth potential. If he were to go with the 600w (that's the one I have) and hang it over say, the right 2/3 of the tent he'd have perfect coverage and PAR for that area. It's a choice between barely adequate lighting but good coverage and decent lighting but less coverage area. A compromise might be to put 2 450W LEDs in there (same brand, Viparspectra)
At the moment it is nothing simple, I have a ViparSpectra 450w w/ bloom switch hooked up to a Century Timer. I just went and bought a small circular fan maybe 6 inches in diameter at Wal-Mart and tied it up in the tent to the top vent as an exhaust. It's in a tiny 2x2x4 Tent. I have a couple clones from my outdoor grow, 2 in pot rn and a few more in a dome, all in the same tent. Not obviously going to keep them all, just hoping the pick the best of the litter.
This is my light
VIPARSPECTRA Reflector-Series 450W LED Grow Light Full Spectrum for Indoor Plants Veg and Flower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015FLSOCE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3MwTBbM909RXW
It has a bloom and veg switch. I used the soil ocean forest potting soil.
My tent is 2x2x4
Thanks for the reply!
Two 450w LED's and the tent is 48x24x60"
VIPARSPECTRA Reflector-Series 450W LED Grow Light Full Spectrum for Indoor Plants Veg and Flower
It has two switches supposedly for flower and veg separately, but I read most people just leave both on all the time. I did the same.
Check out this Vipar Spectra 450W (200W actual) on Amazon. Very well reviewed and affordable. Just bought one myself for my next grow. They have a whole line if you want more wattage. VIPARSPECTRA Reflector-Series 450W LED Grow Light Full Spectrum for Indoor Plants Veg and Flower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015FLSOCE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_QfMJzb0BYTCR4
Haven't even purchased lights/tents yet, but seriously planning an indoor grow and don't know if my setup will work, so feel free to criticize all around.
Location: I plan on growing either in an attic (with good ventilation ofc) or the corner of a large, dark closet, both in a 3x3ft grow tent.
Plants: After some research on Leafly, YouTube, and various forums I have concluded that I am going to attempt to grow Wonder Woman, and I believe could grow 6 plants in that space, but 4-5 is also acceptable if anyone thinks there won't be enough room.
Light: It will be one tent (for now) so I intend on getting a combo veg/flowering LED (since money isn't a big problem and LED yields more than CFL) like this one. If anyone has any recommendations within the same price range (up to $200) I would be glad to look at and consider them.
Medium: Because there are already so many new variables for me, and growing potted plants in soil is something I'm used to, I plan on going with what I know instead of attempting a bunch of hydroponics my first few grows. I assume a better-managed soil grow would be much better than a shotty hydro system.
Also, when do we start cloning? After we determine the sexes? After harvest? Right before harvest? What lights are they kept under?
Thanks in advance!
It says 200 watts:
https://www.amazon.com/VIPARSPECTRA-Reflector-Spectrum-Indoor-Plants/dp/B015FLSOCE
Specifications:
I have a few led lamps and am planning to buy a tent that will hold both lamps.
lamp 1
lamp 2.
I am planning to start with two clones. Veg for 1.5-2 months. Flowering for 2.5-3 months and end with a final weight of 1LB dry.
I would use the scrog technique and use floranova grow/bloom in FF soil.
Would a tent this size and lamps I will use yield me 1LBS dry??
Ill buy this VIPARSPECTRA LED, I think it will be enough for 4-5 plants, what do you think ?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B015FLSOCE/ref=psdcmw_14252961_t2_B01B4GQ6MO or the 300w cousin
Yes that’s exactly what I just did, thinking maybe 2 plants can fit? And do these come with mounts for lights? https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Hydroponic-Observation-Window-Growing/dp/B01DXYMQ9M
Cool, okay I think this may work - I need the whole QB kit and planning 4x2 tent for two plants (I’ve got 4 seeds hoping they aren’t all guys lol)
Would this not work: grow tent :
Alright, here is everything in my shopping cart. I think this should cover everything I need, basically everything but PH test liquid and up/down haha(already have those):
General Gear:
Nutes/Grow Medium/Container:
13 items for a total of literally JUST under $400... Subtotal (13 items): $399.47
Am I missing anything else? Oh shit a drip tray, but I guess I can only buy 5 of this one and can't find one of any that look like they would work for cheaper than 5 of these.
Subtotal (14 items): $415.46 now... Am I missing anything else? This all look good?
edit - had to make the bullets format right
VIVOSUN 48"x24"x60"
That's the tent I added.
I also added 3 HLG100 lights so I still use the 2x2 for veg and just move the plants to the 2x4 to flower. aka, the perpetual harvest.
VIVOSUN 48"x24"x60" Mylar Hydroponic Grow Tent with Observation Window and Floor Tray for Indoor Plant Growing 2'x4' https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DXYMQ9M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BY0MDbKV74WB1
That's the max I was looking at for reference
Edit: thanks for your help btw!
2x4 Tent
Fan/Exhaust
AliBaba / Ali Express for HLG QB288 240w
So, as is surely obvious, I'm completely new. I just set up my tent, which is 2x4x5'
I purchased a mars 600w LED, a charcoal filter and two of these fans
VIVOSUN 6 Inch 440 CFM Duct Inline Fan with Variable Speed Controller
I just opened one of the fans and it is ridiculously huge. The reason I chose that one was it seemed to fit the holes n my tent. Which is
vivosun tent
Is this total overkill? Will it work? Ack. I don't want to have to mess with an exchange unless necessary.
Don't forget a speed controller! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006NGI8VS/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
this one's highly recommended and people say it helps reduce the humming on the inline fan compaerd to cheaper speed controllers.
I'm sure the apollo tents are fine, I've heard slightly better reviews for the vivosun tents. This one's about $12 more than yours i think. https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Horticulture-Hydroponic-Obeservation-Growing/dp/B01DXYMQ9M/ref=sr_1_2?s=lawn-garden&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478889774&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=vivosun+48
The Mars 300 is chill for the price, you probably want to want to get a second one if you're going to have multiple plants in that tent. People say 1 mars 300 per plant should get you good results, almost pushing it with two full plants under a single mars 300.
Also if and when possible, try to invest in a good pH meter. everyone recommends bluelabs! https://www.amazon.com/Bluelab-Ultimate-Solution-Measuring-Temperature/dp/B008R7OWJS/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478889906&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=bluelabs+ph+pen
I didn't PH at first and my plants were dying on me... turns out my tap PH was above 7.0 ph. the PH pen saved grow!
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B01DXYMQ9M?psc=1&amp;ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
Hey! As always, thanks to everyone for helping me get better at this hobby.
As you can see from the album, I've got one clone of the Cookie Shots from the Unofficial Good Guys. Other than the yellowing of the leaves, which I can't quite figure out, the grow has gone pretty well so far. My last plants seemed to take FOREVER to get from this stage to harvest so we'll show it goes with my new kick ass 3VL light fixture. The difference between this and my old setup is staggering.
My last grow with two plants and the budget setup yielded something in the neighborhood of six ounces, and I'm hoping to replicate that yield with this single plant given the new light. We'll see.
&#x200B;
I've never had any issues with yellowing leaves before, and I don't think it's a big concern, but if any of you experts know more than I do please chime in and let me know your thoughts. Grow details are below if anyone gives a rip.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DXYMQ9M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
VIVOSUN 48"x24"x60" and 2 x Roleadro 300w LED Grow Light Full Spectrum Light Fixture
I am doing more of a DWC setup. The tubs are 15 Gal with 2 x airstones and the 5Gal buckets get 1 airstone each.
here is the thermostat that I have always used. it’s a good price and I haven’t had any issues with it
and here are the thermometer/hygrometer combos that I use. one on the hot side, and one on the cool side.
Thermostats are different from thermometers. Thermostats regulate the temperature while thermometers measure it. Non-digital thermometers are also known to be inaccurate. A thermostat like this would be perfect: https://www.amazon.com/iPower-40-108%C2%B0F-Thermostat-Controller-Germination/dp/B01E9IO6N0/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=thermostat+seed&qid=1562452127&s=gateway&sr=8-3
You absolutely MUST regulate your temperature with a thermostat/rheostat. They are very cheap, buy one right now. You put the thermometer probe on the bottom of the inside of the enclosure, and set it to the proper temp of ~90F.
I would advise moving your hognose out of the 20 gallon tank - it's far too big for a baby - and moving it into a plastic bin instead. They hold heat much better to keep the ambient around ~80F, as well. Something closer to this will work much better for your snake while it's young and less than ~12" long. You will want to punch holes in it for air flow. I'd also suggest changing to 2-3" of aspen bedding, since hognoses like to burrow and walnut will not hold burrows.
Zilla 11931 8-1/2-Inch Reflector Dome For Up to 150-Watt Bulbs, Silver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005SRVM2K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_eNFxDbWNQT4D5
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MXUT5RH?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E9IO6N0?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
These are links to the best heat to use the lightbulb comes with a thermometer and the thermostat connects to the light allowing you to set the temperature. ( If you're just interested in the thermostat it's the last link!)
This is the thermostat I am using: https://www.amazon.com/iPower-40-108-Degrees-Fahrenheit-Germination/dp/B01E9IO6N0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=ipower+thermostat&amp;qid=1565799414&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=ipower+the&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;psc=1&amp;spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzQ1pES05SRzg3TTdPJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDc5NDIzM1BXSEhKNVBENjQ5UCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwODE0MTEzMVY4UlJTMTFIQlE2QiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX3Bob25lX3NlYXJjaF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl
And if it matters for the CHE, my ambient room temperature is around 67-69F.
It's on the bottom left side. Here is the Amazon link. iPower 40-108°F Digital Heat Mat Thermostat Controller for Seed Germination, Reptiles and Brewing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E9IO6N0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FILvCbH72MP6H
Caution, you want to run your space heater on a low to medium setting. The thermostat can't handle anything above 10ampers
I haven't heard of anyone using those. It looks interesting but a couple things I can think of:
If that power symbol on the top left is a light, it may disturb your hedgehog.
It says it has two heat settings with a built-in thermostat. If those settings aren't an appropriate temperature, you may need an additional thermostat. Redundancy is always good with heaters anyway in case of failure.
I wouldn't place it within reach of the hedgehog despite it saying zero clearance.
Most people use these types of heat products:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HFNZ59Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1at8Bb48DVR65
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003H200QC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Lct8BbWJYR774
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E9IO6N0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Cdt8BbH1E5YHF
add a thermostat to keep it at 75 degrees
I've found Repticarpet gets messy quickly, especially when your gecko goes for a dip in their calcium dish and tracks it everywhere. I personally use non adhesive shelf liner for the bottom of my tank and add a few stones from the pet store for texture for my little one to run around upon.
I suggest using a temperature gauge to make sure the heat mat doesn't burn them. I like to get them for cheap. I've bought 6 and have loved them all. You typically stick the probe between the mat and the glass, and set the temperature accordingly. This is what I use: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E9IO6N0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ELKYDbN9JM51K is the one I use
I also use sphagnum moss in the moist hide as it holds humidity better, but paper towels will get the job done so long as you're properly moistening them.
I recommend the Flukers heat mat. It's non adhesive, so you'll want to purchase HVAC tape. This is tape that can be found at most hardware stores. It is made out of adhesive and aluminum foil, so it can easily handle the high temperatures. you can find it in the plumbing section. I've used the heat mats that come with the stickiness on them only to bend and break them when trying to deep clean the tank (I'm not gentle), so this will let you avoid having to replace them as often.
As it's winter, if you find their ambient air falling low, you can always invest in a ceramic heat emitter.
I also suggest using a digital thermometer to gauge the temperature of the air within the tank. You can find these online anywhere between 10 dollars and 100. I have a simple one and it's done the job. This has also helped me with ensuring that I have the heat mat at the right temperature, in case some heat gets lost through the glass and I have to raise the temperatures using the thermometer.
As someone else has said, it's better to avoid loose substrate when at all possible, such as sand or dirt, especially if you're just starting out. This will minimize risk of impaction.
And If you have any other questions, feel free to reach out. C:
iPower 68-108°F Digital Heat Mat Thermostat Controller for Seed Germination https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E9IO6N0?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
iPower Small Seedling Heat Mat 10" x 20.5" Warm Hydroponic Heating Pad with Durable Waterproof Design https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E9IO87O?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
I use 3x20 mats for the 2Gs. I may get controllers if things get a bit toasty during the summer.
I'd say your thermostat is broken, if it goes over the set 90f you put in, it should be shutting off, not continuing to heat. Maybe try contacting the company to see if they have suggestions or if they can just replace it? I use a viviarium electronic thermostat for my rack but that would probably be overkill for you. I have used this one before for other species and it works pretty well! What do the tank temps get in the cooler side with the CHE off? does your house stay warm enough to rely on heat pad alone?
Thank you all so much for the advice!
I'm really strapped for money right now, so I'm going to try and make her tank work for as long as possible. I put a little amazon shop list together with some of the recommended products - please feel free to take a look and recommend other suitable products. http://a.co/b2h5atL
In the list, I've got multiple different fake plants, some black 1 entrance hides, a complete hide with 4 sides and just a hole, multiple digital thermometers / hygrometers, a kitchen scale, coconut fiber, aspen bedding, a ceramic heat emitter with dome, and a thermostat
(I had already bought this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E9IO6N0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
would it be suitable? Or should I return it to get the one on the shopping list?)
She does have one of those metal screen tops, but we put a few boxes and such on top for extra security. I may pick up some insulation pads at my local Lowes and attach them to the outsides of the tank to help keep the heat in. Thoughts on that?
Sarah is eating okay. So far we've been giving her 1 little fuzzy each Saturday. Hopefully when I get the scale I'll be able to more accurately assess the food weight vs hers.
Her shed has come completely off! I gave her a nice warm soak shortly after the photos had been taken, and it was like she just wiggled out of it. Hopefully with the substrate change and the addition to the 4 sided humid hide, I won't need to soak her and she can just do her own thing.
When it comes to the ceramic heat emitter, is 60 watts enough? I'm afraid of burning her. The cage is only about a foot tall, and it would have to be in one of those dome lamps that sit attached to the screen. I've been leaning towards getting the "Zoo Med Deluxe Porcelain Clamp Lamp" for the bulb. Has anyone had any experience with this? Will they work together?
I'm absolutely horrified of any fire risks (my house had burnt down about a year and a half ago due to faulty wiring) so are there any tips to help prevent overheating?
Again, thank you all for the amazing advice. Looking at Sarah's previous setup and then looking at everything thats been suggested breaks my heart. I wish I had known sooner that she was being treated this way... But my friend had made it clear that she was "basically an expert" and "knows what to do." Let me roll my eyes a bit harder. As soon as I had seen her bearded dragon laying in sand, I knew she didn't know anything about these poor animals. It takes a few minutes to do some decent research on an animal. Its been just a day since I've reached out to all of you, and look at all this information! You would think in the 3 or so years that my friend had Sarah, she could've taken the time just to do a basic google search...
Some people really should never have animals.
Anyways, sorry for the tangent. Please let me know what you guys think of the products I'm considering! Thank you so much!
I have used the thermostat you linked for 2-ish years without a single problem. I also recently purchased this even cheaper but functionally identical thermostat, and it's been working perfectly for the last week.
This approach came up on the Facebook group:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F3PBX7J
And control the temperature using one of:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E9IO6N0
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008KVCPH2
If I do this, I'd personally use an ESP32 microcontroller instead as I have those and like playing with them.
It looks to be only affecting my jalapeno, cayenne and crosses of the two.
The light was probably 1-2 feet away, maybe they got burned?
I have noticed that the soil is taking forever to dry. I'm suspecting my light source is an issue?
I have the light on from 6am to 10pm, fan running, 2 of 3 flaps open. Room temp is 68F, no idea of the inside temp of the tent.
Using this LED light and this fan
A week ago I shaved the top of the soil, it was dark, hard and just not drying out. That's when I added a fan to the equation.
Am I right in thinking it's the light? I am thinking of grabbing this one
So I'm no expert but I'm pretty sure that's your issue. Something more like this should help.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;source=web&amp;rct=j&amp;url=https://www.amazon.com/UNIFUN-Growing-Hydroponic-Aquatic-Indoor/dp/B01F53LP46&amp;ved=2ahUKEwjB46yk2PbjAhUDYKwKHYwkDc4QFjAAegQIAhAB&amp;usg=AOvVaw29-UTKrimvXmqkoMoM_IJm
Although I would recommend something even stronger depending on your $$$
I know those LED panels. Theyre garbage. And seeing how high theyre hung they cant be doing too much. Guess that's why he has some side panels (looks like the one on the right fell over?)
Also, that weed looks shriveled and tiny. Whatever is going on in there, dude needs serious help. Shits gonna start a fire. RIP your house.
https://www.amazon.com/UNIFUN-Growing-Hydroponic-Aquatic-Indoor/dp/B01F53LP46/ref=sr_1_11?s=lawn-garden&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511074403&amp;sr=1-11&amp;keywords=led+grow+light
thanks for your help !!!! I'm almost convinced to get Fluorescent... It looks like T8 fixtures are cheaper than t5. There is one for $18.48 but then then the bulbs only come in a two pack.. if I buy a set of warm white and a set of cool white then that would be about $20, at $10 per double pack. So if I have just one 2 bulb fixture and 4 lights, i may as well get another fixture so I don't have any leftover lights. So - 2 fixtures and 2 packs of lights it comes to about $57.
Now these LED ones I found are not as strong as the 300W ones, and seems that people use them for house plants. They are about $30 for one But there was another seller offering 2 for $55.
My only concern is judging from the grammar errors on the amazon listing, these LED seem to be from foreign manufacturers and they don't say anywhere on the page if they are UL listed like the Florescent lamps are - so I have to assume these lamps are not and reviews say they get hot so I really don't want one of these to burn my house down.
So, knowing they're both the same cost what would you do??? Florescent or LED? Or can I just get 1 pack of full spectrum bulbs and one florescent light?
I have this one
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0778Z8M5H/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
And this one
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KMW7RYM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
The LED light is a much more attractive spectrum, the HPS is quite yellow. No way the LED is actually producing 1800 watts but i suspected that going in. Growing banana, avocado, jackfruit, mandevilla, succulents, lemon, pitaya and some others in a dedicated room. Room had been set up for over 2 weeks, new growth on everything. 18 on, all lights on single timer. You can buy the ratcheting carabiner cords for very cheap. One caveat about any light that is going to actually produce healthy growth is that if it is above your eye level you will not like it. Mine is not set up for aesthetics but to keep my plants thriving through the winter in zone 6. Last year I really struggled along with shitty cheap lights and lost a few plants. We have some huge windows but deep eaves and they just aren't adequate. Entering the plant room is like walking into a blast furnace for the eyes because my plants are so tall.
There are some really shit lights so make sure you're reading the reviews. If people are growing weed with them you're generally good to go. Last year I bought a cheap purple panel led and some spot lights and they were shit. They are also hideously ugly, they make the foliage appear brown. Edit- this is the one I bought last year. I would not buy any this weak again
https://www.amazon.com/UNIFUN-Growing-Hydroponic-Aquatic-Indoor/dp/B01F53LP46/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1538295568&amp;sr=8-11&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=led+plant+grow+lights&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41-UTvLz0CL&amp;ref=plSrch
They may be good for starting seedlings or for lower light houseplants but to keep outdoor full sun plants thriving indoors they were total failure.
https://www.amazon.com/UNIFUN-Growing-Hydroponic-Aquatic-Indoor/dp/B01F53LP46/ref=mp_s_a_1_13?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1535832383&amp;sr=8-13&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=45w+unifun
Think that’s the light that’s hanging in the middle, then 4 9inch reflector clamps in the corners with “100w Led Bulbs” - GreatValue brand- that only pull 14w each from the wall.
So 56+45 =101? That was my basic workout of it in the beginning, or something close to it. Think I have wrong spectrums for flowering with the reflectors, no nutrients to boost them (do have foxfarm coming), and I’m aware middle light isn’t strong enough for several plants, but it’s doing pretty good on the one far as I can tell, there is a second in the room it’s just further behind/bigger/different strain/not getting enough spectrum from reflect lights so not flowering normally.
What a world to live in :-)
Haha - here is some additional information.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F53LP46/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_s2W8Bb1Q1Y1HJ
I've seen on Amazon, as I did some light searching, these LED grow bulb setups. 45W grid of LEDS that are used for growing, at least from seed, indoors. I know you've recommended the flourescent tubes but what's your opinion on these? If it's similar to what you are saying where they keep growing all winter I could see it being a fair replacement to the tubes.
I only used the basement as an example as I do not have a garage and the only south face window which would get enough light exposure is right above a heating element which I have read could interfere with the plants. It also happens to be my dog's watch post, therefore I think the basement would be the best compromise. I will look into setting up the shop lights or perhaps if you are able to recommend, that LED setup.
So.. as I was looking at more I came across these. They have great reviews, seems like I can get 3 of these and that should cover all of it. Would that work? Sorry for these noob ass questions.. just wanna be sure with a second or third opinion
new led light
I use LED grow lights personally. I have a bout 3 of these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0748D2SMB/ and 2 of these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F53LP46 in a different spot.
What about using grow lights. But more importantly this plan depends on having a small population. I'd imagine 1-2 million max.
This is the light, I have two, one for each plant. Theyre a little shitty but quite cheap so was perfect to start off. Looking at getting a 1000w led panel to replace these two.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F53LP46/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vTxZzbHSJBS09
I have a few of these for my plants while they stay inside for the winter. My key limes and custard apple all have new leaves and started to bloom.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F53LP46/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01F53LP46/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Looks like 45W
ditch that strip and go with these
I have mine currently on my laundry room shelf with an LED light. Ha. Nice setup. I don't have any reflective insulation right now since I will be moving mine outside soon. But next year I plan on it. Would you say it's cheaper to do that or just get a tent?
Anyone curious, this the LED and hooks I have:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F53LP46
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098R0600
I see, can you recommend me the bare minimum of all the things I need to do and buy to grow just 1 plant in my balcony as a test experiment. The only thing I know so far is making sure to get the water between 5.5 and 7.5 pH but other than that I'm lost. Can I use this light in my balcony for 1 plant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IVQ96KY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Xu54AbBQSNHZ4 ?? What nutrients do u recommend and how do I do it?
I noticed much more growth and sun coloration for a while after getting the light, but now for the last month or two, all of that is going away. This is the grow light I bought, I’ve had it for just about a year now.
I got 3 of these a month ago. Good so far but someone please tell me if I chose poorly and why.
Roleadro Panel Grow Light Series,45W LED Plant Grow Light with Red Blue Spectrum for Growing&Flowering https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IVQ96KY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_OzYfAbD2Y360Q
Your grow lights are the emitting the right frequencies, but they are far too weak. Your plants are stretching out as a result. You want something more powerful like this:
Roleadro LED Grow Light, 75W Grow Light for Indoor Plants Full Spectrum Plant Light for Seedling, Hydroponic, Greenhouse, Succulents, Flower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IVQ96KY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_EHJIDb2QA12DE
I keep my grow light 1.5 feet away from my plants, and they seem to be happy with the setup.
Edit: sent the wrong link
>If your house is 77F, but your water is 93F, something is wrong. The water should be at ambient temperature, which in your case seems to be 93F. Do you have a lot of hot lights right up against the plants with no fan? If so, fix your lights.
This is from the default Aerogarden Bounty LED setup - I bought two of them - both have consistent (high) water temps. The issue it seems is that while germinating and while the plants are youn, the black deck that the water runs directly under is 100% exposed to the lights - I think a combination of that along with the 10" height of the 45w lights during the germination & young plant phase is causing the 16F difference - in the bounty growing the basil, where they shade the deck the water temp is only 8-10F higher...still 87F seems too high for basil so I add ice to that one as well... I brought up my observations to Aerogarden who said just to add ice cubes (my thinking plants dont like sudden temp changes), but that seems to work ok....but seems ridiculous I would need to add 10-12oz of ice twice a day just to bring it down to 70F for a a few hours.. (the ice I add now, is solution I had to remove from the bowl to make room for the ice)
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Since it seems my issue is that the room already starts kinda warm, the LED lighting (along with a black deck with water running across it) is the culprit of the high water temps?
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In my planned Kratky/DWC setup - should start off with?:
- White Lid/Deck
- fan/forced air blowing on each deck
- 3w or smaller light source when germinating
- moving up to a 10w when young
- moving to a 25w+ when the leaves are covering the deck 90%+?
-- Beyond, moving the lights up and down - is there any other way to keep them from warming things up too much - do they make lights with adjustable intensity?
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>Don't use pure blue LEDs, you want either whites or red/blue. something like these: https://www.amazon.com/Roleadro-Spectrum-Hydroponic-Greenhouse-Succulents/dp/B01IVQ96KY/ref=sr_1_5
If I were going with just greens, Blue is best?
Yeah that was my first thought but I'd rather conserve space if possible, [here] (https://www.amazon.com/Docooler-Ultra-quiet-DC12V-Brushless-Submersible/dp/B00JWJIC0K/ref=pd_nav_hcs_bia_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=YSKNJPEGXGP15Q1N1XJM) is the pump I am using and here is the light. Do you have a converter in mind I could look into?
This is the grow light: https://www.amazon.com/Roleadro-Panel-Spectrum-Growing-Flowering/dp/B01IVQ96KY/ref=sr_1_8?s=lawn-garden&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1512481070&amp;sr=1-8&amp;keywords=grow+lights
As for natural light, it doesn't get any due to the dorm I'm currently in. This grow light set up is pretty much the only way they can get the required light without etiolating to shit in the windowsill.
To build on my previous answer: Does this only really pertain to the high intensity grow lights? Because the one I was thinking of getting was this one https://www.amazon.com/Roleadro-Panel-Spectrum-Growing-Flowering/dp/B01IVQ96KY Which seems to have an actual output of 25 or so watts. So if I hung this on a shelf, and looked the plants on it, would it direct the harmful frequencies onto my eyes, or would it be absorbed into the chlorophyll mostly?
i don't have that grow light, but i do have some of these
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IVQ96KY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
my succs love em, it'll take a while to see how the cacti will feel but i don't foresee any problems
I started with a south facing window, but it wasn't quite enough in winter. Eventually I bought this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IVQ96KY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
It covered about 6 plants until the one bell pepper plant decided it was the alpha and would overgrow.
This has worked nicely for my jade plant. It's not super heavy-duty, but it runs cool, and could easily be mounted under some cabinets.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IVQ96KY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This is the best one I’ve had! It was recommended by a friend and provides great light! https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01IVQ96KY?psc=1&amp;ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
This is awesome. I'm about to get a pilea peperomioides. I think I'll try and grow it first with window light - and then with any babies I'll try using artificial light. I was thinking of this light - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IVQ96KY/. Not sure if it would be overkill...
How is this one?https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IVQ96KY/ref=s9_acsd_hps_bw_c_x_2_r
I have two of these mounted side by side -- they don't spread a whole bunch, and are maybe 12" above my plants: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IVQ96KY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I don't think they'd grow much more than a phal, though I do have a suburst under them right now that's doing okay, and as you can see in the picture a rogue aloe :-) I really want to build a shelf that is 3 or 4 tiers with each having its own light to keep at home, but I haven't gotten that far. They get just a little warm, but not hot. Just be considerate of that depending where you plan to put them.
Fair play man, and I get the stressed thing. We'd do anything to make them happy and growing vigorously :). We've all been in that boat man. I feel your pain.
I'd germ another seed and start that off too and get a backup going because, I know you hope it will, but in reality she won't produce much most likely. Sorry.
To give her a fighting chance please crank the light distance back up. Here is a distance chart from an advert of it. 12" will cause her further damage.
Also, not to be harsh, but check peoples post history before taking their advice mate. A lot of people talk the talk but have never walked the walk, which means their advice is often based on their book reading or assumptions. Not personal experience of the plant, techniques or kit.
My mistake, I thought it was a 300 but it’s 600w
Phlizon 600W LED Plant Grow Light,with Thermometer Humidity Monitor,with Adjustable Rope,Full Spectrum Double Switch Plant Light for Indoor Plants Veg and Flower- 600W(10W LEDs 60Pcs) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0752CL6KJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_uIyqDbK1YKRCV
This is the lamp I'm looking at
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0752CL6KJ/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_i_s9aHDbY6JYAHP
What sort of wattage are you using for your lighting? I'm similarly moving into hyro testing, but finding my current lights are enough to grow but not sufficient to flower or fruit. I've been looking at .5-1kw lights like this. Is that close to what you are using? I'm mostly just experimenting, but I want to make sure I'm on the right track.
This is the light I’m using.
https://www.amazon.com/Phlizon-Thermometer-Humidity-Adjustable-Spectrum/dp/B0752CL6KJ/ref=pd_m_ba_rp_of_8?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=JZPMBM715K2QP5HRDS9H
https://www.amazon.com/Phlizon-Thermometer-Humidity-Adjustable-Spectrum/dp/B0752CL6KJ/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1539363778&amp;sr=8-4&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=grow+lights&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=419qEBaal3L&amp;ref=plSrch
I haven’t started yet, but the seeds are in the mail. I’m planning on going with this bucket in this tent with this light .
grow light ordered 600w
Hey man so how do u know wat actual wattage is ?? I'm looking to buy a light for a 1 plant small tent and i don't want to buy lights twice. For example this is only 100w light ???
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Phlizon-Thermometer-Humidity-Adjustable-Spectrum/dp/B0752CL6KJ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=400w+hps+grow+light&amp;qid=1557525667&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=400w+hps+&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;psc=1
too lazy to look for the model number, so here are the amazon links
Meizhi 600w
Phlizon 600W
the meizhi is definitely better for sure
You could get two of these:
https://www.amazon.ca/Phlizon-Thermometer-Humidity-Adjustable-Spectrum/dp/B0752CL6KJ
Here are the respective links to the lights I was talking about. although I have no experience with grow lights, so I might be looking at bullshit, you'll have to let me know👍🏼.
COB LED Grow Light Full Spectrum 300W, CF GROW Indoor LED Plant Grow Lamp for Hydroponic Greenhouse Plant All Stage Growth Lighting Replace UFO Growing Lamp, High PAR Output https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XJ9W4GX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2kYXDbM9GBMWQ
VIVOSUN 300W LED Grow Light Full Spectrum for Hydroponic Indoor Plants Growing Veg and Flowering https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07843C284/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_olYXDb38DK18V
VIPARSPECTRA UL Certified 300W LED Grow Light, with Daisy Chain, Full Spectrum Plant Growing Lights for Indoor Plants Veg and Flower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B4GQ6MO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ElYXDbPTK09FZ
Phlizon Newest 600W LED Plant Grow Light,with Thermometer Humidity Monitor,with Adjustable Rope,Full Spectrum Double Switch Plant Light for Indoor Plants Veg and Flower- 600W(10W LEDs 60Pcs) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0752CL6KJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RlYXDbSE8S0AN
LED Plant Grow Lights, KINGBO 600W High Power Grow Lamp with Optical Lens, Double Chip/Three Chip, 12-Band Full Spectrum Grow Light for Indoor Plants Veg and Flower (Daisy Chain Function) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H2TFCMF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0lYXDbEENATZG
currently using a 300W LED light from VIVOSUN and its been doing great for my 2 pepper plants 2 cannabis plants and a tomato/dill plant i have going,
but im looking into investing into another LED light, this time a 600W to add to my 4x4 tent.
Looking at a few options but im not sure if they're good or not.
vivosun 600w vivosun is reliable and great but its cost is 120$
This no name brand named wakyme is only 60$ and has a dual switch and comes with a few things, but i've never seen any on this subreddit and the reviews seem alright but im not sure.
and lastly this one, phlizon tons of reviews, seems like an older model but also comes with goodies and is only 80$ with a dual switch.
should i go with ol reliable and spend almost double without a dual switch and no goodies with it, or do some of you use these brands and know they are reliable and great to sustain my 4x4 tent with my already 300W led light which is doing great.
So not this amazon light then?
Phlizon 600W LED Plant Grow Light,with Thermometer Humidity Monitor,with Adjustable Rope,Full Spectrum Double Switch Plant Light for Indoor Plants Veg and Flower- 600W(10W LEDs 60Pcs) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0752CL6KJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qr-RCbVY391PB
I saw a comment about that the other day, I think I will try that method for a few plants on Monday when my new light arrives. Here is a link to the light I ordered, link. Let me know what you think!
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B0752CL6KJ?psc=1&amp;ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title and the other light I got with the kit says it’s 600w but not sure of actual power it pulls from the wall. My dimensions are in meters sorry.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0752CL6KJ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This light has been working great for my two adult females. It is good enough for 2 adult plants. If you have 4 adult plants then buy two of these.
You tell me. I have no idea Lol: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0752CL6KJ/ref=od_aui_detailpages03?ie=UTF8&psc=1
A few weeks out of the germination box, they’ve been under
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0752CL6KJ/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This light, on the veg setting, about 12 inches above the plants. Planted in miracle grow type potting mix, no additional nutrients added.
Thanks!!
[Thermometer/Hygrometer] (http://www.amazon.com/Chaney-Instruments-Acu-Rite-Thermometer-Humidity/dp/B001BO8CUE/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_nC?ie=UTF8&amp;colid=LHQMMUNJTCBO&amp;coliid=IX3DGDHB4PBM8)
[Thermostat] (http://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-MTPRTC-Digital-Thermostat-Heat/dp/B000NZZG3S/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&amp;colid=LHQMMUNJTCBO&amp;coliid=I11WG4736K1KJI)
That makes sense! I'm using this thermometer in the corner of the cold side to measure the cold temp: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001BO8CUE/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1
Is that good to measure the cold temps?
I have the UTH on a jumpstart thermostat, with the probe between the UTH and the bottom of the tank. I don't have the lamp on a thermostat, but I'll get another one to put it on. Where should the probe for that thermostat be?
I use this guy: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001BO8CUE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I did the salt test and it's only 4% too high. I thought it was busted at first when I put it into my humid enclosure, but it turns out the humidity was just 96% or higher (it was just displaying "HIGH"). It does update pretty well though. I let the enclosure dry out a little bit over a few days due to oversaturating the substrate and the percentage dropped to display an actual number.
https://www.amazon.com/General-Hydroponics-Organics-Go-Box/dp/B004PS4B08
I'm using this for my current soil grow, its directions state not to worry about PH, and so far that has been the case for me.
Here is what I am currently using.
Yes, if you needed to cover a larger area/footprint, then 2 x 600ws would make more sense, but in a single tent it would be overly complex, crowded and expensive. The small gain in light and yield (if any) wouldn't really justify doubling the expense and hassle IMO. A 600w will make plenty potent product ;) Again, it's 90% in the genetics. So long as the plants gets sufficient light, food and water the genes will do the rest. The key is to not get in its way.
All lights, including HPS, have an ideal range from the plants at which they work best. Generally, it's within 18-24" of the tops. As a result, if you have a 4 foot tall plant the top will get good light, but bottom will suffer. For this reason, various training methods (SOG, SCROG, FIM, LST, etc...) have been used to even out the canopy and put all/many of the tops close to the light source in a single, uniform layer. As long as the bulk of your tops receive light within this ideal range they'll be fine. Any closer and they may get damaged by the intense light and heat and farther and they may loose density and take longer to ripen. Many fellow microgrowers actually use nothing but CFL/Fluorescent lights and get very good results.
There is no magic formula or way to guarantee yield. Never let anyone tell you differently. However, there are some rules of thumb. If you can get between 1/2 -1 gram of cured bud per 1 watt of HPS light that's good, but there's A LOT of variation in there, and much of it depends on matching just the right strain with just the right growing method in just the right environment. So, when they say a 1000w "can" make a "pound" (16 oz), that is an idealized figure. Sure, it "can" be done by the pros using various whiz-bang hydroponic set ups and lots of fancy fertilizers, etc...,but not always easily or very reliably due to all the many variables involved. They aren't "lying" per se, but there's always fine print. If you have the time, money and patience to invest into it, almost anything is "possible", if not probable.
In terms of harvesting, remember, plants are 70-80% water, just like us. As they dry and cure, they're going to shrink considerably and loose the vast majority of their weight, just like tobacco, dried herbs and mummified pharaohs. If you've ever cooked fresh spinach, you'll know what I mean. You can watch an entire bag of leaves wilt into a pile the size of your palm in just seconds as the moisture evaporates in the pan. Of course, we need this to happen so the buds can burn, but we also want it to happen to concentrate the aroma and flavor too (ie "cure"). For these reasons and more, you start to see why good weed costs as much as it does, especially considering it takes months per cycle and you have to grow at an almost 10:1 ratio! If you want a single dry, well trimmed and cured ounce you'll need to grow about 8-9 "wet" pre-trimmed, ounces (that includes the fan leaves, stems, other bits, etc....) :/ It's kind of depressing the first few times you harvest, but you learn to anticipate it eventually and plan accordingly. It's also why folks can't/don't stay "micro" for very long.
The good news is that if you're legal you can grow presumably grow outdoors in which case you can literally grow "trees" that will produce 10-15 POUNDS each and still only count a "1 plant" !!!! They would be 20 feet tall and would take almost a month to harvest, but it can and is done all the time (r/trees). Of course, outdoor come with its own challenges, but the rewards can be HUGE.
As for nutes, there are gozillions of brands, but they all do the same thing. The main difference is in hydroponic vs. organic systems. Hydroponics are like sci-fi steroids and the results can be AMAZING, but there's lots more equipment and noodling around involved and when things go bad, they go bad hard and fast. Soil/organic grows are generally easier and more forgiving, but usually don't yield as much. You'll have to decide which you prefer. The "benefits" nute manufactureres espouse are again, mostly marketing. While there are some very expensive nutes (ex: Advanced Nutrients) they're not really necessary and seem to work as well as any other. I run an organic set up, so for small set ups like ours, I use GeneralOrganics GoBox. It only costs about $40 and has everything you need for veg and flower. I can usually get 2-3 cycles (veg and flower) per box. Considering it lasts for +6 months, $40 is pretty cheap. Other companies make their own kits too, but the GoBox is probably the most common/popular. Just follow the directions on the side and you'll be good to go. It's basically all I use and I have no plans on changing.
http://www.amazon.com/General-Hydroponics-Box-Starter-Kit/dp/B004PS4B08
I'm not sure about the mechanics of becoming "legit"in Oregon, but my state will hopefully be following suit soon too (hopefully), so let's hope we both figure it out. One key is finding a robust, fast growing, large producing strain and the growing method it prefers (hydro v. organic). Every grower has their favorites, so I would ask around in your area, but Blue Dream, Girl Scout Cookies and just about any Kush variety perform well indoors and seem to be very popular and readily available on the West coast.
Hope that helps.
Hey,
Find a hydroponics store.
Find this http://www.amazon.com/General-Hydroponics-Box-Starter-Kit/dp/B004PS4B08/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1406524920&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=go+box
I'd say get a few CFLs or buy a t5/LED if you got the extra money.
Get some foxfarm soil and a ph test kit. And you'll be good to go.
I use the General Organics GoBox at 1/2 strength and adjust if symptoms arise.
You can just buy a Gobox on amazon. This will have everything you need to have a successful grow.
no that was right Perlite and flush..... maybe more perlite next time? Ive heard of people usually sitting between 25%-40% I use roots organic Since its pre-mixed and nute content is a bit lax to reduce early burn... Pair that with general organics Box lets me have more control on the nutes for my plant instead of the soil over saturating.
If you want something simple, fairly affordable (grow and flower nutes come with) mostly organic and complete (even calmag comes with) and to have nutes also for flower I'd sugest the gobox
https://www.amazon.com/General-Hydroponics-Organics-Go-Box/dp/B004PS4B08/
Will last a few more grows too depending on how many plants
I used on my first grow 4 years ago, started using it again this year
I'd recommend coco for sure, I mix in hydroton and perlite and use the GO box nutes in 5 gal smart pots.
I've done the Lucas formula with maxibloom before and I wouldn't recommend it. Definitely treat yourself to a good line of nutes and you'll see the difference right away. I'm really liking the organic stuff so far, I don't have to pH and my plants have gone crazy after I started adding zyme alive (thanks /u/Biloba414)
When I started I had nothing but disasters. Then I went to coco and general organics. Then I got some traction and started having success. Ive since moved on to more intensive stuff. I say Coco choir and get the general organics starter kit.
http://www.amazon.com/General-Hydroponics-Box-Starter-Kit/dp/B004PS4B08/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1422591266&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=general+organics
http://www.amazon.com/Kempf-Compressed-Growing-Potting-11-Pound/dp/B003MOD2HY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1422591247&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=coco+coir
Just follow the instructions, its easy, its cheap, it works, and its pretty dang hard to kill your plants this way.
Edit: I did pull 1.25 pounds on 2 big plants in a scrog with a 600 watt HPS like this in about a 3.5x3.5 foot scrog. It was my second ever grow.
It sounds like you should look into using the GO Box for nutes. I am coming up on the harvest of my first grow and I used the FF full line this time around with what looks to be great success. I got the hang of adjusting the pH pretty quickly, but the GO Box claims absolutely no pH adjusting is necessary. If you want something that is more or less just add nutes to water >>> shake well >>> water plants then I would check out the nutes I linked.
GO Box
Thanks for the information! That is really helpful.
I'm currently using the GH Advanced Nutrient System - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017H73708/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I was using the GH Go Box nutes, but I switched to the ANS recently. I still have the stuff on-hand, tho. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004PS4B08/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I also ordered some GH Floralicious for this grow, but I have not used it yet.
Here is the mobile version of your link
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004PS4B08/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Little bit of everything it looks like.
This has worked for me.
advion 4 Tubes and 4 Plungers Cockroach German Roach Pest Control Insecticide Bait Gel, Kill German, American, Australian, Smoky, Brown https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00730QW70/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_U-IpDbKXDXYJF
I've used this to get rid of roaches and it's the best thing next to hiring an actual exterminator since it's what they use.
advion 4 Tubes and 4 Plungers Cockroach German Roach Pest Control Insecticide Bait Gel, Kill German, American, Australian, Smoky, Brown https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00730QW70/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_doVrDb67584JF
Use it after deep cleaning the apartment top to bottom, behind all furniture and kitchen appliances (fridge and stove being critical)
Just make sure to out it near any sources of water/food (fridge has a drip tray for condensation) and entrances into and out the apartment such as near the door, behind outlet covers, lights and windows.
After that it's just a matter of maintaining cleanliness and following package directions for reapplication. Got rid of roaches in my house thanks to some nasty roommates and they haven't come back since.
Get Advion Roach bait (https://www.amazon.com/advion-Plungers-Cockroach-Insecticide-Australian/dp/B00730QW70/), a dustpan, and a broom. Put the Advion on dots on index cards and leave them everywhere roaches like, in the corner of every cupboard, room, near all water sources, etc. What will happen is that the roaches eat it and they die extremely high (like, they don't have any pain at all, they get stoned and wander around and die). Some of them will make it back to their nest, then the other roaches will eat them and they will die too.
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Just keep putting it out and replacing it. DO NOT USE ANYTHING ELSE, no other sprays, no nothing. The first couple of day you will have dead roaches EVERWHERE, you will have to vacuum or sweep up them up in bushels, twice or three times a day. Then after a couple of weeks you won't see any. Keep putting the bait out, refresh it every two weeks, and your problem will be solved.
If I were in that situation, I'd want to try something to decrease the population, so I'd get cockroach baits/gels. Something like this. https://www.amazon.com/advion-Plungers-Cockroach-Insecticide-Australian/dp/B00730QW70
This stuff is the bomb. They eat it and take it home to the colony and kill everyone else off as well.
https://www.amazon.com/advion-Plungers-Cockroach-Insecticide-Australian/dp/B00730QW70/ref=pd_cp_86_1/143-7441202-9761869?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00730QW70&pd_rd_r=056d2e2d-b6e1-4496-93ca-6017598d09fd&pd_rd_w=ERoZ4&pd_rd_wg=4sa5N&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=FYQH3Z45XEDX8K8BW0T7&psc=1&refRID=FYQH3Z45XEDX8K8BW0T7
It's a toss up on responsibility..
"The implied warranty of habitability means that landlords must maintain livable conditions in a rental property. A pest infestation is one of those things that will jeopardize that condition. So for the most part, it's up to the landlord to arrange and pay for pest control."
also
"Pest control falls under the general responsibility of both tenants and landlords to maintain the premises in a state of reasonable repair, safety and cleanliness."
But that aside, self treating I can't recommend any brands but I would caution against glue traps. Largely they end up being a waste of money and if you forget about one, they then become a food source as dust settles and the sticky portion no longer works. If you do use them, try to use a sharpie to number and date them. You know you set 10 on this date so if a month later you come up 1 short you know you missed one. They also have a habit of catching non insects like mice which either starve to death slowly or end up with broken bones or torn skin if you try to remove them yourself.
A quick search I found this helpful video.
$30.76 for 4 tubes on Amazon.
I found gel baits extremely effective.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00730QW70/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_18RXDbZXYRXEP
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0042JCIDC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_l9RXDbJHC31R4
Japanese roach traps imho never work and they can suck my balls.
It's best to cold smoke hard boiled eggs. They're already cooked; you don't need to cook them further. You can use this to turn your smoker or grill into a cold smoker.
The salt content in Cure #1 is around 94% of a level teaspoon as its usually 6% Sodium Nitrite(the actual active ingredient, the salt does nothing except make it easier for you to dose safely).
Consider a level teaspoon (enough cure for 5 lbs of meat) is 4.2grams. So you're only adding 4grams of actual Sodium Chloride (salt) to the marinade. Marinade for that much meat is probably 3-4 cups volume. By the time you add 4grams of salt to that much meat and water it down with marinade composed of the usual suspects, worsterchire, soy, teriyaki, you would not even know the 4grams of salt is there. Matter of fact if you could accurately measure out 0.25grams of straight Sodium nitride they wouldn't even need to add the salt to the cure but since too much is toxic they do you a favor.
The short answer is its a pinch of salt compared to everything else, so don't even factor it in. Just add the cure accurately and move on.
As far as the liquid smoke, yeah I don't know. I've used it, I've made it without. Liquid smoke adds a flavor that is different than real smoke. Some people hate it, some like it. I think if you're going to do a slow low temp real smoke I would make a batch half and half one with one without liquid smoke and treat it all the same otherwise and decide based on taste.
The probes don't go in the jerky in this case it's too thin. I was referring to probes(plural) because it has a meat probe you can use to verify against the internal chamber temp sensor kinda like a second chamber temp sensor. I also have several wireless probes that I bought separate so I can run 3+ sensors to check things if I want. But the chamber temp sensor that the smoker uses to maintain chamber temp is accurate enough by itself. I normally use the probes for thick pieces of meat to monitor internal temps.
I have the older model, Masterbuilt MES30. I do not use the chip loader the way it is designed. I use a AMNPS 5X8 cold smoke generator with pellets like you buy for a Traeger pellet grill/smoker to make the smoke. Much easier and more consistent. Allows you to set the smoker and walk away for 8-10 hours. The factory wood chip loading method has you adding wood chips every 30-45 minutes and kinda defeats the utilitarian advantages of an electric smoker.
https://www.amazon.com/MAZE-N-Pellet-Smoker-Smoking-Works/dp/B007ROPJ1M
If you like electric I recommend you go with a Masterbuilt pro. This is hte one I use:
https://www.amazon.com/Masterbuilt-20070411-30-Inch-Controller-Electric/dp/B003XJGEGY/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467319050&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=masterbuilt+pro
and I usually use a AMAZ-N pelet smoker at the bottom instead of the wood chip feeder.
https://www.amazon.com/A-MAZE-N-AMNPS5X8-Pellet-Smoker/dp/B007ROPJ1M/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467318800&amp;sr=8-7&amp;keywords=pellet+smoker
This has worked out well for me and I have made many nice racks of ribs and a few small briskets. This 4th will be my first attempt a a larger brisket.
Ah yea I had one of those little masterbuilt electric smokers and it was hard not to end up with creosote with the limited air flow on it and the way it created the smoke so close to the food. I got decent results once I purchased their external smoker and ran it through dryer duct, which is what a lot of people online had done.
I'm sure if you keep at it you'll find a way to get better results. I'd try soaking the chunks and adding 1 at a time .. just go lighter on the smoke in general. If that doesn't work you might look into something like this .. it uses wood pellets and has a slower burn. Not ideal to have to sink more money into something but I know people that have gotten good results with them and it's portable if you happen to have other grills.
A-MAZE-N Pellet Smoker https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007ROPJ1M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i4PZAbWDAB6AE
You could in two days
I switched to just using pellets instead because I had so many issues trying to get the tray to work. Bought one of these things - https://www.amazon.com/MAZE-N-Pellet-Smoker-Smoking-Works/dp/B007ROPJ1M
It's to increase the chip capacity. I just slide a chip tray in there. I also have an A-MAZE-N pellet tray, which you can actually set for overnight without having to re-ignite or restock. Some people don't like the wood pellets, but I've had decent results with them.
https://www.amazon.com/A-MAZE-N-AMNPS5X8-Pellet-Smoker/dp/B007ROPJ1M/
They generate very low heat compared to the amount of smoke it puts out.
Rinkelstein hit the nail on the head to make sure you are using the wood chip holder correctly. That should get you a decent amount of smoke coming out of the vent hole on top.
I also have an MES30 and from the recommendation of other forums purchased the A-MAZE-N 5x8 Pellet Tray. It's very simple to use and will definitely give you much more smoke. Here is a link to the product, https://www.amazon.com/A-MAZE-N-AMNPS5X8-Pellet-Smoker/dp/B007ROPJ1M. Simple youtube videos will show to how to load it and light it.
Lived two years in an apt complex that did not allowed charcoal grills so... bought a MES. This is what I got for it that helped with the smoke and bark.
You need to a special setup to provide smoke without heat, or with minimal heat. Some people use pellet trays such as this or this. You can also make something similar with tinfoil.
I have a Masterbuilt 30", so I bought the cold smoking attachment, and added a 3" dryer tube to separate it from the main unit (to prevent creosote from landing on whatever im smoking).
What to give the man that has everything? Something rare, something he probably won't think he needs...
Get the TS8000 and this :
http://www.amazon.com/Booker-Dax-Searzall-Blowtorch-Attachment/dp/B00L2P0KNO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1419274787&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=searzall
http://www.amazon.com/A-MAZE-N-AMNPS5X8-A-maze-n-Pellet-Smoker/dp/B007ROPJ1M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1419274936&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=wood+pellet+smoke+tray
Neither.. check out the AMAZN pellet tray I can do 18+ HR smokes using that thing without ever touching it.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007ROPJ1M/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_oatTDbR3Z9NBQ
I also did a mod to my MES...Here's my setup...but you can run the AMAZN without modding.
https://www.reddit.com/r/smoking/comments/cc58q1/my_tried_and_true_setupgetting_ready_to_roll_out/?utm_medium=android_app&amp;utm_source=share
or A-Maze-N
I second the suggestion to use a pellet tray in an electric smoker. It provides a much more consistent smoke than using the chips in the built in tray that only smoke when the element is actually heating. Plus you can use it to cold smoke with too.
A-MAZE-N
there is a lot of mis information out there. https://www.epa.gov/bedbugs is pretty good. i wasted a lot of money and effort. people say DE is good but you want 100% silica powder like this and these strips. the powder put all over. then put all your shit in plastic tubs with one of those strips. as you put stuff into tubs clean it with rubbing alcohol. its a metric fuck ton of work, but it can be done.
Do all those things you plan to do, also consult the exterminators about what further steps you can take. Don't forget to use intercepting devices on each foot of your bed, with the bed pulled away from the wall so there's no alternate access. The traps can be as simple as cups with talcum powder (which makes their feet slip), or little glue traps.
Let me emphasize that the silica gel I referenced above is cheap, available (on Amazon as Cimexa), and effective as treatment as well as prevention, possibly for a decade, if applied properly.
The important thing is to stay sane. Be proactive, do all the things you're supposed to, and then trust that they're working. Don't let paranoia turn every little itch into a panic. Scorch the earth but stay cool.
cheap diy indicators and treatments;
simple double sided tape along bed legs.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002O16SHW
use this powder as directed
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0085HRWI8
it may be fleas not bb.
fleas leave fewer indicators behind.
for fleas wash everything around bed with borax.
https://www.amazon.com//dp/B000R4LONQ
including floors walls in:outsides of furniture.
Since I haven't seen it here yet, a good way to kill any roaches and prevent reinfestation is by using Cimexa dust. Buy a duster and some Cimexa and lightly dust the interior of the ps4 through the air vents. Bonus points if you open it up and dust the inside too. Watch some videos on dusting appliances so you get a feel for how little you need to use to be effective. This Cimexa is not a poison but rather it dehydrates the insects and doesn't harm electronics. Best part is you can use it in other areas of infestation as well.
If you decide to go this route make sure you use a dust mask when applying and read the label on the Cimexa bottle before you use it. It's not poison but I'm you still don't want to put it somewhere where someone could breathe it in so make sure you know how to apply it before you so.
As of now my plan was to wash and dry on high heat all the bedding, buy mattress and box-spring bed bug covers, and get some CimeXa and put it all over the room. Especially in the doorway so they don't infest other areas of the house (is this being naive? will they just go through the walls?)
How does this sound to you guys?
Powdered amorphous silica, like this stuff. It will kill both, but it kills by dessicating so your ants won't be poisoned. Just don't put it where your spiders go.
Or better yet, Cimexa. Amazon link here.
Look into this stuff as well, CimeXa Insecticide Dust, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0085HRWI8?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
This stuff is great -
https://www.amazon.com/CimeXa-Insecticide-ounces-bottle-Rockwell/dp/B0085HRWI8/ref=sr_1_2?s=lawn-garden&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503065033&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=cimexa
Bed bugs can be managed without an exterminator, but you do need to do research. Cimexa is definitely vegan and extremely effective, you just have to be okay with a fine layer of dust on the floor for a few months. It doesn't kill the eggs, but when they hatch, they'll crawl over it to feed on you and then die.
Godspeed, OP, you can win this. I found a few two months ago and now they're all gone. Still dusting with Cimexa for a few more months, to keep them gone.
https://www.amazon.com/CimeXa-Insecticide-ounces-bottle-Rockwell/dp/B0085HRWI8
This stuff is a lot more effective. Im too drunk to provide a source but just look up cimexa
Thanks for sharing your story. I need to hear stories like this one.
I think my first step is getting a "monitor" for them. You can make a homemade one with dry ice (carbon dioxide) and a few other cheap materials. If this "monitor" (which is more like a trap) catches some, I think that will be the evidence I can use to present to the management of my new apartment.
Since I'm pretty sure that monitor will find the evidence I fear, in the mean time I will purchase a duster and a whole bunch of Cimexa and treat every nook and cranny of every visible surface in side my apartment.
When I let my management know, and just how truly awful and shameful that conversation will be, I know that at least they have to choose which pest control company and method will be used to treat my unit. I am hoping they opt for heat treatment of some kind.
Ultimately, I'm hoping that by escalating it within the next month and the following treatment outlined, I can be over this in about 4-6 months.
But I don't know. I just hope it doesn't take my relationship from me...
Cimexa is cheap and works wonderfully in my experience. https://www.amazon.com/CimeXa-Insecticide-ounces-bottle-Rockwell/dp/B0085HRWI8/ref=sxin_3_ac_d_rm?ac_md=0-0-Y2ltZXhh-ac_d_rm&keywords=cimexa&pd_rd_i=B0085HRWI8&pd_rd_r=c89aaaf1-719b-4de0-93ca-9bf321243418&pd_rd_w=eEVP3&pd_rd_wg=3e1lb&pf_rd_p=ed481207-4bea-4e19-bbad-73ed40fdc292&pf_rd_r=PT9FPWKGF1QAFMG0NRW5&psc=1&qid=1572508437
Hey, so I accidentally bought this brand.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0085HRWI8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
92.1% silica gel and 7.9 %
I sprayed my bedroom two days ago, and besides going in for a minute or two to grab something I haven't gone back. So what should I do? Should I vacuum the floor?
How effective do you think it'll be?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B07C59J8L2/ref=dp_olp_new_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=new would this be sufficient for my tent then? still cant figure out actual wattage cause Im stupid i guess...its saying 95 wats.
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i guess for 30 more dollars i could get it right from the site https://horticulturelightinggroup.com/products/260w-qb-led-kit?variant=14331333804081
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really not sure of the difference between the two.
Replied to the thread, not sure if it'll notify you!
Here's a link either way :)
LED Grow Light for Indoor Plant,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C68N7PC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
LED Grow Light for Indoor Plant, Relassy 15000Lux Sunlike Full Spectrum Grow Lamp, Dual Head Gooseneck Plant Light with Replaceable Bulb, Professional for Seedling Growing Blooming Fruiting https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C68N7PC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5kA1DbYV7W4GT
Amazon, HLG
Ordered this one
HLG 65 V2 4000K Horticulture Lighting Group Quantum Board LED Grow Light Veg & Bloom 4000K | Version 2 High-Efficiency Upgraded LM301B LED's https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076QDKVDZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_i3MKDbN8MT81N
Thinking of getting this one
Horticulture Lighting Group HLG 100 V2 3000K Quantum Board LED Grow Light Veg & Bloom | Version 2 High-Efficiency Upgraded LM301B LED's https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C59J8L2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_e4MKDbRYJXDE7
Would 165 watts be too much for them? And how far away should i keep each one? The 65 watt says about 20 inches I'm assuming the 100watt will be slightly more
Yep, absolutely love taking all this information and learning more about it, i am so fascinated by this process and have learned so much. Thank you for the input, and idk what my “liking” is right now as i yet to find out what i like rather then what they need and im at that point where ill do anything for them to be ok. Lol(to a point ofcourse) just, am inpatient so looking at them everyday and seeing no difference is bugging me, hopefully this new one will do better.
New one
Horticulture Lighting Group HLG 100 V2 3000K Quantum Board LED Grow Light Veg & Bloom | Version 2 High-Efficiency Upgraded LM301B LED's https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C59J8L2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Uyv4Cb2WP4FQM
Hi guys. My wife got me a Bonsai Azalea for Valentine’s Day for my new office because she knows I was always intrigued by them. I read they can be cared for indoors. Thing is, I don’t have a window, only thing is the drop ceiling with the fluorescent lights. I ordered a little full spectrum LED light with a clamp but I’m reading that they need diffused light.
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Will this light be fine?
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[LED light](https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07C68N7PC/ref=psdcmw_14252941_t1_B07LBQYDCW)
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Not sure I even trust it lol I can always return it, that’s why I like Amazon. They are full of knockoffs, though. For all I know it’s just a standard LED.
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Will this be bad for the Azalea? Is it fine? If so, should I point it directly at it? Sorry I’ve never had any kind of plant.
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I don’t even understand and how it’s going to know it’s “growing season” if I come in, have a light on for 6-8 hours, turn it off and go home year round. This is all knew to me.
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If anyone could explain what I should do in terms of light/diffused light I would appreciate it. Thank you!
https://www.amazon.com/BESTVA-Reflector-Spectrum-Hydroponic-Elite-600W/dp/B074K25WD2/ref=mp_s_a_1_10_sspa?keywords=bestva&amp;qid=1559020553&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-10-spons&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Quantum-Board-Grow-Bloom-3000K/dp/B07C59J8L2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=quantum+board&amp;qid=1559020631&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07C68N7PC/ref=cm_cr_othr_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8#cm_cr_carousel_images_section
These ones, I bought it mainly because the price was affordable and setup is easy. If I had the money I would use T5 growlights. These lights are okay though, if close enough to the plants it causes pretty nice stress coloring and compact growth.
They have some cheaper lights for $150 that aren’t sold out. It’s around a 200 watt output compared to these ones. Horticulture Lighting Group HLG 100 V2 3000K Quantum Board LED Grow Light Veg & Bloom | Version 2 High-Efficiency Upgraded LM301B LED's https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C59J8L2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.itHDbYF42X58
Use the cabinet as it is. 9 ft height is a huge advantage over a low-height tent.
One of these Quantum Boards will work just fine for the given area.
I've had this bookmarked for a while, do you think this would be good?
LIST POST:
|/u/Dent7777|Shady Angel Investor|Total|Strictly Necessary Costs
:--|:--|:--|:--|:--
|318.366|212.244|530.61|385.44
|Item|Price|Link|
possible to replace or modify|32G Wheeled Trash Can|20|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B071CZ4BWD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1|
fabric bags also work|Air-Pruning Pot|13.98|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BFISHS2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1|
|Mylar Blankets|6.69|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GLCYR5S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1|
NSN|Velcro tape|16.49|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B007OXK330/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1|
|Plant Ties|7.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B071CZ4BWD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1|
|Happy Frog Soil|11.95|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01508YKY8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1|
|FoxFarm Trio|33.95|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D93NIFY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1|
|Fem Blue Dream Seed|23.68|https://www.seedsupreme.com/blue-dream-feminized-seeds-20604.html|
|2 Free Fem Seeds|0| |
|pH control & testing kit|18.5|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BNKWZY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1|
not strictly necessary (NSN)|Submersible pump|7.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EWENKXO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1|
NSN|2Liter bladder|12.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B075RWCXWZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1|
NSN|Clear Tubing|7.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W6W10TK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1|
NSN|tubing switch|7.95|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L45TLPK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1|
NSN|Funnel|10.96|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OKXZL8O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1|
|Humidity & Temp Sensor|12.82|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013BKDO8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1|
NSN|Rechargeable AAs|13.8|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JHKSN76/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1|
|Inline Fan|17.95|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CQBFOTS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1|
|Carbon filter|33.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CJ5D4AG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1|
|Ducting hose|10.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B076S6KHB4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1|
|ArcMyn Vent|14.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0793HH4GD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1|
|Axial Fan|11.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B009OWRMZ6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1|
NSN|Fan Speed controller|17.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B6VV6GL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1|
|HGL 100w|149|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C59J8L2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1|
NSN|Smart Power Strip|32.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C1ZSCYV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1|
may keep for lights, might get rid of it.|Light Timer|12.99|https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MVF16JG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1|
Some information on my Ginseng Ficus.
Height: 18 in. (including pot) and Width: 9-10 in.
For the upcoming 9 months, I'll be living inside of an apartment and looking to start growing my Bonsai in that environment. The main concern I have is lighting, I have no southern-facing window with the only window I have being eastern-facing. This window isn't even the biggest and I'm concerned about the health of my tree if it had to live in these conditions. However, the option for a glow lamp should hopefully solve this issue. The issue in that being I have zero clues what glow lamp is optimal for my scenario nor what exact specifications I need to look for in a glow lamp. I've down small amounts of research and found you need roughly 300 nm-800 nm spectrum but am unsure if that's actually true. If anyone could provide some guidance or insight on what I should be looking for that'd be greatly appreciated.
I've attached three glow lamps I show through amazon that seemed like viable options(my price range is $50). Also, I've included an image of my bonsai tree to hopefully give you a better understanding of what I'm dealing with.
Lamp 1
Lamp 2
Lamp 3
Ginseng Ficus Photo (This was not taken in the apartment I'll be living in, just another angle of the tree)
Thanks for reading! If you have any recommendations or lamps that have worked for you in the past I'd appreciate it if you commented those below. I'm looking for lamps that can be attached to a desk as that's where my tree will be.
First off, I'm going to be growing in a 3' x 2' x 5' tent. I'm aiming at growing organically and as cheaply as possible. I have quite the compost pile going on and also own chickens, so I've got an abundance of free nutrients. I'd rather not buy all this stuff I see in growing videos as this is more of a budget, work with what you got kind of grow. I will buy additional nutes if I have to, though.
As for lighting, I'm leaning towards this light atm: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C59J8L2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A3OJY9E0ZY1FCH&amp;psc=1
Still deciding on what I'll get for exhaust/filtration.
When you say cleanliness, are you talking about sanitization of tools and workspace or more about pests?
I see temperature and humidity being my biggest hurdle as I'm currently planning on growing in the garage and things can get kind of cold. May decide to grow in closet instead.
>Bonchi (Bonsai Chiles)
Nice. My friend wants something a bit more traditional, but I love chilis. Will have to look into that for myself. Can you actually grow them like bonsai, which is to say can you arrange, clip, and mold them like bonsai? May have found a new hobby. Also, any thoughts on this type of lamp?
What is a pcb board?
My spot is 2×4'
2 of these:
LED Grow Light 800W - Full Spectrum 3000K COB LED Grow Lights 3W Osram Chips with UV IR Daisy Chain for Hydroponics Indoor Plants https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HH2FNW9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_zhDTDb4PAF9AE
Or
3 of these:
Horticulture Lighting Group HLG 100 V2 3000K Quantum Board LED Grow Light Veg & Bloom | Version 2 High-Efficiency Upgraded LM301B LED's https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C59J8L2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uOETDb12TWERN
Yeah your tent is the right size for flowering 4 medium-large plants or 9 smaller ones (like if you took clones of a photoperiod strain). Anyway, 3 autos have a good chance to not even fill up the whole space, which could be good for your first run not having to invest as much in lights all at once.
"Quantum board" specifically is a name brand by the company HLG that I mentioned in the previous post. They're really good and use the highest efficiency LM301B Samsung diodes but require a bit of assembly unless you want to pay a whole bunch extra. No soldering or anything though, just some screws and wire connectors This 260W kit for $350 would cover most of your tent at a full flowering brightness and spectrum. It would probably require that plus a second smaller light to completely cover the 3x3. Which could work out great if you started off with a small cheaper light during veg for the first few weeks and then add the bigger light later on.
My suggestion if you wanted to do that would either be to start with the small HLG boards you can get preassembled on amazon (two of the 65w $100 HLG65 or one of the 100W $150 HLG100) or one 150W $140 MarsHydro SP-150.
I would not suggest any of the other MarsHydro lights besides the SP-150 or SP-250. Those are their only ones with a proper heat sink and high efficiency diodes. They are not quite as efficient as the quantum boards but are fairly close and are much cheaper than any other preassembled light in this efficiency range with a decent build quality.
Another option with the same type of Samsung diodes as the HLG in another form factor are the chilled logic pucks I mentioned like this 400W 4 puck system for $600 which would absolutely completely cover the entire tent right off the bat and could even be dimmed down while plants are younger.
https://www.amazon.com/Relassy-Spectrum-Gooseneck-Replaceable-Professional/dp/B07C68N7PC
Got this one from Amazon a couple months ago. I've been happy with it so far. All my orchids are growing new roots and leaves, unlike last year with minimal light from a shaded East facing window.
Newbie myself. I'm happy with this one. See my post for some pics of the results so far.
https://www.amazon.com/Horticulture-Lighting-Group-High-Efficiency-Upgraded/dp/B07C59J8L2
I like that it's white light - easier to see the plants. I have a phlizon 600w LED that I initially bought and then I added the HLG 100. It only pulls 95 watts from the wall which is great. Getting close to harvest so I'm totally psyched.
Yeah, I know they do best outside 😥 there's just nowhere for me to place it and my apartment doesn't have great windows for sunlight. I did buy a grow light, about 45 W. I'll link it below. Is this a good light? And thank you for the suggestion, I'll trim it tonight!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C68N7PC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_WdWRDb7V58ENH
Howdy! I recently purchased this light: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C68N7PC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0isQDb6R1XGPH
Is it strong enough? I definitely see notable growth in the two weeks that I’ve had it, but this fella seems like he might be getting leggy growth. I decided to move the lights even closer.
My apartment has pretty terrible lighting and with fall/winter coming on strong in the Boston area, I decided to put together a little home gardening station to help with lighting and movement of the plants for watering. I went into this with the goal of having my setup accommodate most of my small collection of plants and to allow for easy movement without having to mess with the grow lights. In the end, I decided on a cart-based design composed of the following items:
Bror Utility Cart 33 ½” X 21 ⅝” X 34 ⅝” ($99)
https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/bror-utility-cart-black-pine-plywood-60333850/
Bror Add-on Shelf 21 ⅝” X 6 ¼” X 5 ½” ($10)
https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/bror-add-on-shelf-black-20402001/
Koppla 3 Outlet Power Strip 19 ¾” ($4.99 for two pack)
https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/koppla-3-outlet-power-strip-grounded-white-00086428/
2x Hemma Cord Set, Black 15’ 5” ($7.00 each)
https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/hemma-cord-set-white-10175810/
(IKEA site only has white showing up now, black was available in-store)
2x Luftmassa Lamp Shade 10” ($17.99 each)
https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/luftmassa-lamp-shade-rounded-70462648/
Kasa Smart WiFi Plug Mini HS105 ($21.75)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K1JVZOE/
Relassy 20 Watt Dual Head, Gooseneck, Full Spectrum Grow Lamp ($27.39)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C68N7PC/
2x GE 9 Watt BR30 Balanced Full Spectrum Bulbs ($9.98 each)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NN6SVG6/
4x 3M Command Utility Hooks 3 lbs ($8.99 for nine)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0751RPD3V/
2x Velcro Thin Ties 8” X ½” ($9.70 for 100)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E1Y5O6/
Total Cost (pre-tax): $234.76
These?
If you can't afford COBs and you want a cheap legacy LED panel that works, and you're only growing one plant, go with a ViparSpectra Reflector 450w. I can vouch for its effectiveness. 10w LED bulbs won't really do anything. Get 2 42w cool white CFLs just until you can get the panel. It's $149 at https://www.amazon.com/VIPARSPECTRA-Reflector-Spectrum-Indoor-Plants/dp/B015FLSOCE
You're probably looking for about 3-4 ounces minimum, for personal use. I grew two plants under one after vegging for only 3 weeks from seed and I ended up with about that. I didn't top one of them, or I'd have had more.
Has an actual power draw of 200w. When rating LEDS especially these cheap blurples you need to look at actual power draw. That gives you the raw wattage of the light. (I’ll explain how they get away with this clever piece of marketing later if you wish). Anyways when it comes to lighting you want to fall within a 30-50 W/sqft (watts per square foot) your 4x4 has a footprint of 16sqft to figure this out you take your actual wattage 200W and divide by 16sqft the result is 12.5 w/sqft. Also you’ll notice in the description the light is rated for a 2x2 for flowering.
Sorry, I didn't mean that brand wasn't important. I meant I'm not brand biased and open to any suggestions. But yes, I'll share with you the links to the lights I was considering.
SpaceTote2 Lights:
Philzon 600w LED Grow Light
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0752CL6KJ/ref=emc_b_5_i?th=1
VIPARSPECTRA Timer Control PAR600T 600W LED Grow Light
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RTG4H1J/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_taa_eagCDb5MWT707
5x5 Grow Tent:
-Was going to buy
Phlizon 1200w Grow Light
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07527N1F7/ref=emc_b_5_i
-Interested in buying now
Phlizon 1800w LED Grow Light
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075SRR8ZD/ref=emc_b_5_i?th=1
VIPARSPECTRA 1350W LED Grow Light
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078B4VJ35/ref=twister_B07N66DGXN?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
VIPARSPECTRA Dimmable Series PAR1200 1200W LED Grow Light - 2 Dimmers
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N7CEW5Q/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_taa_-9fCDbVAK62AB
King Plus 1500W Double Chips LED Grow Light
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZ8C34S/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_taa_9NfCDb5APW8K3
King Plus 2000W Double Chips LED Grow Light
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MY27Q9H/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_taa_aOfCDbCPXWYN8
I will have one 5x5 with either setup mentioned above and two space totes using a 600w led light each. I'm trying to use all of the same brand equipment to limit the amount of manufacturers to keep up with and monitor warranties with. Any suggestions, experiences and advice welcome.
Gun or cannon?
I have this one. Works great.
For less messy amazon links you can extract the part after "/dp/" in
https://www.amazon.com/AcuRite-00891A3-Outdoor-Thermometer-Humidity/dp/B001BO8CUE/]
and make it:
https://amzn.com/B001BO8CUE
Or via smile link:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B001BO8CUE
BEEP BOP
Plz send any recommendations via PM
https://www.amazon.com/General-Hydroponics-Organics-Go-Box/dp/B004PS4B08
Just get this. I had shit luck trying to get the GH nutes to not burn the shit out of my outdoor plants. After using the GO box last year, I wouldn't use anything else with outdoor soil.
If you insist on the GH, usually once per week (using the GH feeding schedule from a Google search) and at about quarter strength.
how about this
https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Hydroponic-Observation-Window-Growing/dp/B01DXYMQ9M/ref=sr_1_4?s=lawn-garden&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521906686&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=grow+tent
"Poor people" could make better choices...