(Part 2) Best pc accessories according to redditors
We found 13,867 Reddit comments discussing the best pc accessories. We ranked the 2,218 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
![Team Wolf ZhuQue [Storm Buy] [CIY] [ Swappable Switch ] [ Customize Switches ] Mechanical Keyboard, Mix Color Led Backlit, 7 Light Modes 87 Keys Wired Gaming or Office Keyboard-Blue Switch](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41fyCXSCznL.jpg)
I've been using this to use cube controllers on PC for years (well, and other stuff). Would this be better somehow?
Or is the interest in the idea that you could more easily do 4 players in Dolphin than buying two of those other GCN-PC adapters that has two ports?
The Wii U adapters specifically seem super over-priced at the moment.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y2GDXMC/
I would personally recommend this!
If you want a smaller keyboard (TenKeyLess), you could try [this] (https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-MasterKeys-Mechanical-TenKeyless/dp/B06XVXWT33/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1519388651&sr=1-3&keywords=cooler+master+master+keys+pro+brown).
I my self have the smaller one because I go to a lot of LAN events and like having the keyboard taking up less space.
This is the one right here
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T300-RS-Racing-Wheel-PlayStation/dp/B01M1L2NRL/ref=sr_1_3?crid=30TMXSL6ODA23&keywords=thrustmaster&qid=1563234313&s=gateway&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&sprefix=thrustmaster%2Caps%2C157&sr=8-3
As many people have mentioned, Star Citizen is still an in-development title, and there are lots of bugs and will likely continue to be lots of bugs for quite a while.
That being said, there are lots of people who are OK with this and are able to enjoy themselves, some fall on the other end of the spectrum and get really frustrated so it's worth keeping in mind that there is a 14 day refund policy. If you or he decides you aren't satisfied with your purchase, you can submit for a refund at any time in that 14 day window.
If you're still with us and you want to go ahead and buy him something, here's four strong options for you to consider:
1) Buy the Mustang Alpha Starter Package for $45 - https://robertsspaceindustries.com/pledge/Packages/Mustang-Alpha-Starter-Pack
2) Buy the Mustang Alpha Starter Package for $45 - https://robertsspaceindustries.com/pledge/Packages/Mustang-Alpha-Starter-Pack
Then upgrade it to an Avenger Titan using this $20 CCU (Cross Chassis Upgrade is an item that you will find in your hangar on the website after purchase and can then apply it to the Mustang Alpha to convert it into an Avenger Titan) - https://robertsspaceindustries.com/pledge/Upgrades/Mustang-Alpha-To-Avenger-Titan-Upgrade
Most players in Star Citizen have owned at one point, or currently own an Avenger because it is incredibly versatile for its price allowing you to do both combat and hauling stuff while not being paper thin. It's also the one I'd recommend the most for him. He can always use the CCU system to upgrade his ship to something else later once he has a better idea of what he wants to do.
3) If he's likely to mainly do combat, then perhaps the Arrow would be a good choice $90 - https://robertsspaceindustries.com/pledge/Packages/Anvil-Arrow-Starter-Pack
It will be noticeably more combat capable than the Avenger Titan, but it doesn't have any cargo space. It is a very popular ship right now for combat pilots.
4) If you really want to splurge, then get the Cutlass Black Package $115 - https://robertsspaceindustries.com/pledge/Packages/Cutlass-Black
The Cutlass Black is larger than all the other mentioned ships and it's the first real offering that gives you decent multi-crew features. It has an interior you can walk around in with a couple beds (beds are used for logging off if you're out in space instead of at a station), It has a good sized cargo bay that's great for traders. It has a copilot seat which can be used by a second person to help manage shields etc..
It also comes with a turret for some extra firepower. It has plenty of teeth, and you can't really go wrong with it.
 
If he really ends up liking the game, he should look into picking up some flight hardware (Joysticks etc..). I'd recommend either the t16000m FCS HOTAS $130
Or the dual t16000m setup $115
You can also just buy a single t16000m joystick for around $60 and then buy a second one later. They can be flipped to lefty pretty easily, so don't feel like you need to buy two right away.
In terms of bang for buck, there is no contest compared to these in the budget arena. I personally fly with two sticks, some people prefer the stick plus throttle.
 
In closing, my personal advice would be to buy him the Mustang Alpha ($45) and the CCU to the Avenger Titan ($20), then tell him you'll contribute X dollars towards some flight hardware (Joystick/throttle etc) or further ship CCU's once he knows what he wants.
Best of luck on your decision making!
Gmmk full https://www.pcgamingrace.com/products/gmmk-full-customized
Gmmk tkl https://www.pcgamingrace.com/products/gmmk-tkl-tenkeyless-customized
, gk64,https://kbdfans.cn/products/gk64-mechanical-keyboard-64key
gk84, https://kprepublic.com/products/gk64-gk84-mechanical-keyboard-64-key-84-key-dye-sub-keycaps-wooden-custom-light-rgb-cherry-profile-keycap-starry-night-dhl
igk68, http://www.epathbuy.com/product-category/igk68-hot-swap-keyboard/
team wolf zhuque https://www.amazon.com/Team-Wolf-Swappable-Mechanical-Keyboard-Blue/dp/B01AFBJQA8
Kananic 82
http://s.aliexpress.com/RFNZjeQf?fromSns=Copy to clipboard
I have this keyboard. It's ok build quality and at $60 probably worth it if you want the 75% form factor. This layout is by far my favorite, very compact for desk space while maximizing productivity/convenience keys. Also I grew accustomed to the aligned f-key layout on laptops which not many keyboards have.
If you're tempted by this but $60 is too much, consider the backlit DREVO for $42. It seems to be roughly the same keyboard with some minor changes to the bottom row. The right alt/fn/ctrl are a single space which allows the spacebar to be a more typical size if you want a new keyset.
I like authenticity, I know this problem all to well while playing console games at 1080p at 60 fps.
Best Cheap Mechanical Keyboards Under $50
Best Cheap Mechanical Keyboards Under $100
​
The link are(non referral) to Amazon.com
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B06Y2GDXMC
Details for those asking:
Thrustmaster flight kit
Keyboard arm
Keyboard
Chair (it's the powered version)
Brackets
Buttkicker gamer 2
I just picked up the Qanba Drone fight stick. It’s cool for beginners. $60 but you can swap the stick and buttons when you want to upgrade. Takes some time getting used to it but once I got a button layout that worked for me, I prefer it to the DualShock.
That said, whatever is most comfortable to you is your best bet. The game’s default controls have a controller in mind so you’re set either way.
Tldr: Qanba Drone is a $60 beginner’s fightstick. Mod ready. Slight learning curve but I felt it was worth it. Do u tho.
Link:
Qanba Drone - PlayStation 4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I0GEDEY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.6rIAbW9GTPFN
You can make a great one under $100. I bought a Qanba one and replaced the stick and buttons with Sanwa parts.
Qanba Drone Joystick for PlayStation 4 and PlayStation 3 and PC (Fighting Stick) Officially Licensed Sony Product https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I0GEDEY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9VqRCbYR24NKK
I vote a T300 if you can find a decent used one.
Edit: Actually the T300RS GT is on sale right now on Amazon.
So... below is my setup and WHY I personally do this. It's not ideal for everyone but it's what brings me the most joy flying in SC given my budget/space/style parameters. I don't play with dual sticks to be highly competitive or to see my name on the leaderboards. I do it because it makes flying that much more enjoyable for me.
I've been playing combat flight sims since the late 80's with one or two sticks and I've been a dual stick user in SC for a couple years now and love it. Most here will recommend two of the very capable and affordable Thrustmaster T16000M or the newer version, Thrustmaster VG T16000M FCS. Both of these sticks have molded bits on the handle that are removable and come with replacements so you can make them usable in the right or left hand.
While I use dual sticks, I don't use two T16000Ms and here's why:
Yes, the T16000M can be made to work right or left handed... and that's fantastic. That's why I use it in my LEFT hand. And while it's true the T16000M has LOTS of buttons on it, 12 of those buttons are on the base and only accessible in a dual stick setup by taking one hand off of one of your sticks. That's not ideal.
So, I went with a CH Fighterstick for my right hand. I've always loved CH products... they just feel a little more sturdy to me. But, the reason I did it was because ALL the buttons on the Fighterstick are ON THE STICK within reach of your fingers/thumb. There are triggers, buttons and hats that amount to 24 (I think) digital buttons (on/off) within reach of your hand that's already holding the stick.
The main argument for using dual sticks is to have six analog axis in your hands at all times (X, Y, twist for both sticks). The drawback though of my setup is that while the T16000M has three analog axis (X, Y, twist) on the stick, the CH Fighterstick only has two (X, Y... no twist). That means with just the sticks, I have five analog axis to work with. BUT, for me personally, that was a trade-off I was willing to make. Eventually, I have dreams of owning pedals to cover the missing axis.
Also, I fly with all fixed guns, no gimbals. That's how I remove the gimbal variable for myself. Again, this is a choice based on the way I like to play flight sims.
Here's my setup:
I've posted my HOSAS (Hands On Stick And Stick... otherwise known as Dual Sticks) setup details multiple times... so I apologize to those who keep seeing it. I post it here again not because I feel it is the best method/setup, but simply for you to consider and take bits from if you wish:
-----
> I know it's easier said than done, but if you have access to two sticks (friends peripherals) and a HOTAS setup, try both/all and see what feels good. You could also find a really cheap, used stick on Ebay or ShopGoodwill.com as a test. So long as the axis work, that's all you need to test the setup. Then, if you're happy with how it feels, invest in a proper stick. I just happened to have an old, barely working stick laying around that I used to test the dual stick setup. After 2 weeks, I was convinced it was right for me so I picked up a newer stick (still used though).
>
> Here's a graphic of my bindings
>
> If you're curious, here are the videos I have specifically about dual stick:
>
> My Dual Flightstick (aka HOSAS) Configuration
> Game Play: Squadron Battle with Dual Joystick Overlay
>
> Here's a breakdown of my setup:
>
> #Right Hand (main)
>
> CH Fighterstick
>
> ------------------------
>
> X-axis: roll
> Y-axis: pitch
> Trigger: fire weapon group 1
> Pinky button: fire weapon group 2
> Side 4-way hat switch: Vertical and Lateral strafe
> Top left 4-way hat switch:
> Left: switch countermeasure
> Right: launch countermeasure
> Down: missile lock
> Up: fire missle
> Top right 4-way hat switch:
> Up: target object in reticle
> Left: Cycle friendly targets
> Right: Cycle hostile targets
> Down: don't remember...
> 8-way hat: only use down right now to look behind
> Right side red index finger "mode" button: IFCS mode switch (SCM, PRE, CRU)
> Don't use top red button yet
>
>  
>
> #Left Hand (off hand)
>
> T16000M
>
> -------------------------------
>
> X-axis: yaw
> Y-axis:
> Front half of axis: throttle
> Back half of axis: backward strafe
> Twist: strafe lateral
> Trigger: boost
> Throttle lever: set and forget throttle
> Top Left button on stick: Push-to-talk for Mumble and what not
> Top Right button on stick: couple/decouple mode toggle
> Hat UP: zoom in
> Hat DOWN: zoom out
> Three of the left side base buttons are the landing keys
> Two of the left side base buttons are Q-drive system and Q-drive engage
> And Match Target Speed is the last base button on the left
> * I have nothing bound to the six buttons on the right side of the base, yet
>
>  
>
> My two requirements and goals when I set this up when AC first came out was:
>
> 1. To have fine control over throttle on the Y-axis WITH reverse but to also be able to set the throttle using the throttle lever on the T16000M for longer flights without having to hold the T16000M forward to maintain velocity. For example, if I let go of the T16000M, my thrust will be 0. If I set the throttle lever to 75% and don't touch the Y-axis, my ship will maintain the 75% thrust/velocity. As soon as I touch the Y-axis, I again have fine control over thrust.
> 2. To be able to fly with only the main hand (CH Fighterstick) when fine throttle control was not necessary. I try to have all my main controls that I need on the Fighterstick with the extras on the t16000M. Combine that with some key VA commands and it works well in AC.
>
> I think the greatest drawback my setup has is that vertical strafing is not intuitive or easy (since it is bound to a hat on the Fighterstick). But, the throttle was the the key part of my setup and I wanted it on the Y-axis of the T16000M. I do not have pedals or any other peripherals.
The wheel you listed is arguably less than entry-level, as it doesn’t have force feedback and that’s arguably one of the most important parts of any serious sim racing wheel.
Since your budget’s $150 i’d suggest the Thrustmaster T150, decent, fairly small but it’s got FFB and is a solid jumping in point to the sim racing hobby/market.
That same keyboard is $50 on Amazon, or you can get an even cheaper MechanicalEagle one that's also hot-swappable (though I'm pretty sure these ones only work with Outemu switches)
Just buy the keyboard on Amazon, unless you're fine waiting several months just to save $10. Don't ever use Massdrop to get anything that can be bought somewhere else, especially keyboards. I only recommend Massdrop for keycap sets that you can't get elsewhere. That listed MSRP is absolute bullshit.
Link to t300 alcantara, (Deal of the year right here)
https://smile.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T300-Ferrari-Alcantara-Racing-Wheel/dp/B015KJ0SES/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480328060&sr=8-1&keywords=t300+alcantara
Here are a few popular keyboards with hot-swappable switches:
GMMK
Team Wolf ZhuQue
E-Element Z-77 and Z-88
My roommate found an old CH yoke in the basement that he purchased years ago but never used. Works like a charm. I just peek through the nose bridge to press keys, but almost never once the engine is up in the air. I'm planning on buying this once the price comes back down (lowest was $129)
The X56 is a bit expensive for what it is, and has dubious quality where you either get a stick that works for five years or that breaks after a few days. Supposedly the quality got better when Saitek got bought out, but I don't know how much I trust that.
On the other hand, the T16000M HOTAS is a well-proven stick and throttle combo. It has the same Hall sensors in the stick that the more expensive Warthog stick uses and has a good amount of buttons and hats that it can be used for a variety of aircraft. It is also a twist stick so you can use it for rudder control, and the throttle has a set of paddles that you can use as axis for things like zoom, brakes, rudder, or whatever else you might need.
TL;DR I'd recommend the T16000M HOTAS. And with the money you're saving from the X56 you could pick up TrackIR 5 if you don't already have it.
There's also this pack that comes with the Thrustmaster rudder pedals which are a good quality, and the pack is still less expensive than the X56 by a decent amount. I've also seen this pack on sale down to 150USD so if you're patient you could save a bit of money on it as well.
I don't know what exactly your budget is but it's also worth noting that the Warthog HOTAS tends to go on sale around the Black Friday to Xmas timeframe and you can often find it for 300USD. It's worth noting with this that the Warthog has no axis able to be used for rudders so you would need to buy rudder pedals from somewhere.
This right here, I have the pedals and the throttle. I bought a different joystick though for reasons unknown to me lol. The joystick was fine and more than adequate.
Here you go.
Get a Thrustmaster wheel over the Logitech wheels. The technology in the Thrustmaster wheels is far far superior to the notchy gear drive of the Logitech. I suggest getting the following
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015KJ0SES/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_3?pf_rd_p=1944687622&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B004J6KRD6&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0ET5925JQKKMT3HMJ4TA
You get a full size rim (logitech uses a very small unrealistic rim size.) You can also add a shifter if you prefer that.
http://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Add-On-Gearbox-Shifter-4060059-videgame/dp/B005L0Z2BQ/ref=pd_bxgy_63_img_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1ZJ22XYZZ13QGCVHA7HB
If you don't mind Gateron instead of Cherry (they're arguably nicer anyway) Magicforce makes a Gateron Brown full size board for $70 https://smile.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-Backlight-Magicforce-Qisan/dp/B01HHTFSIK?sa-no-redirect=1
Here is the US Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y2GDXMC
It's not available for preorder yet, but you can ask to be notified. It lists release date as July 4th, even if they don't do preorders, I'd still probably get it from them sooner than via DR.
all depends on how much you want to spend
step 1 GOOD PC - too much to talk about
step 2 joystick/yoke
extreme 3d pro
T.16000M FCS HOTAS
[Logitech G Saitek PRO Flight Yoke System ](https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?
Item=N82E16826197226)
Step 3 ruder - don't need this right away nice to have
hmm descent price combo
Logitech G PRO Flight Rudder Pedals
for your reference i use this
Warthog
MFG Crosswind
track ir
Well since it's USB you could always just get USB controllers for each one. I have the SNES and NES ones. There are also N64, Sega Genesis, and even Atari 2600 controllers. Just go on amazon and type in (console) usb controller and you'll probably find it.
I think the most budget friendly option would be the Rosewill RK9000v2. No frills, just a decent quality board that'll last. Or if any of them want backlit boards, then maybe a MasterKeys Pro L White will work.
If you want to treat em then maybe something like the FC900R, with the sound dampening mat in the case and PBT keycaps, it's a much higher quality board.
As for O rings I'd just buy the cheapest thing off Aliexpress.
Generally, the best keyboards are ones with Cherry MX Mechanical switches.
There are 3 types of switches that people mainly go for.
Red switches are linear switches, that means they don't have a bump. They are don't have a click, but make a large clacking sound. They will not have any feeling at the actuation point (The point where the keyboard recongizes your input). These are generally recongized as better for gaming rather than typing.
Blue keys will have an audible click at the point where the keyboard recongnizes your input. There will also be a slight bump at that point as well. These are generally recongized for being better at typing than gaming.
Brown keys are the middle between red and blue keys. Brown keys will keep the slight bump at the point where the keyboard recongizes your input, but does away with the click sounds of blue keys
Generally, the best keyboards will have genuine cherry mx switches of any type. That should be your starting point. Then you can add things like volume controls, backlighting, etc etc etc. Generally, the keyboard that stuffs the most of these features while keeping cherry mx switches will be your best deal.
All of these will be good gaming keyboards while keeping under your budget:
https://www.amazon.com/CM-Storm-QuickFire-XT-Mechanical/dp/B00EQV0W02/ref=sr_1_40?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1499480556&sr=1-40&keywords=mechanical+keyboard+cherry+mx
https://www.amazon.com/HyperX-Mechanical-Keyboard-HX-KB1RD1-NA-A1/dp/B01NCX88FQ/ref=sr_1_37?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1499480525&sr=1-37&keywords=mechanical+keyboard+cherry+mx
https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-MasterKeys-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B01ITE93OM/ref=sr_1_16?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1499480358&sr=1-16&keywords=mechanical+keyboard+cherry+mx
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Backlit-Mechanical-Keyboard-920-007857/dp/B01CDYB8F6/ref=sr_1_17?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1499480358&sr=1-17&keywords=mechanical+keyboard+cherry+mx
https://www.amazon.com/Razer-BlackWidow-Ultimate-Mechanical-Programmable/dp/B01CVOMWXU/ref=sr_1_22?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1499480358&sr=1-22&keywords=mechanical+keyboard+cherry+mx
https://www.amazon.com/Qisan-Keyboard-Mechanical-Backlight-keyboard/dp/B01872MCIA/ref=sr_1_11?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1499480358&sr=1-11&keywords=mechanical+keyboard+cherry+mx
https://www.amazon.com/Qisan-Keyboard-Mechanical-Backlight-keyboard/dp/B01872MCIA/ref=sr_1_11?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1499480358&sr=1-11&keywords=mechanical+keyboard+cherry+mx
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-STRAFE-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard/dp/B012B6X7MI/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1499480358&sr=1-8&keywords=mechanical+keyboard+cherry+mx
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-Compact-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B00DOWCQ0I/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1499480358&sr=1-4&keywords=mechanical+keyboard+cherry+mx
Non-referral link here.
Thrust master T1600M https://www.amazon.com/ThrustMaster-2960773-Thrustmaster-T16000M-FCS/dp/B01MQEDEEW/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1O0SQ58FWIO3J&keywords=thrustmaster+t16000m&qid=1564523941&s=gateway&sprefix=Thrust%2Caps%2C164&sr=8-4 its what I use for my flying sims & aviation games.
Qanba Drone if you're on PS4 and do not care about artwork swapping. Venom Arcade Stick if you're on PS4 and want artwork swapping. Mayflash F300 if you're on Xbox or Switch and do not care about artwork swapping. Mayflash F500 if you're on Xbox or Switch and want artwork swapping. Qanba Carbon if you're PC-only and care about artwork swapping.
All of these sticks can be easily modified with higher quality levers or buttons at a later date. Personally, I went with the Venom Arcade Stick, upgraded it with Sanwa parts, used it for a few years and then switched to a full custom.
You can use this or this.
I've gotten the Rosewill RK-9000V2 and I really enjoy it without breaking the bank
here it is on amazon for ~$80
If I were you I'd throw $70 more and go for the alcantara edition for far better pedals with clutch and a wider rim: http://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Ferrari-Alcantara-Racing-playstation-4/dp/B015KJ0SES
The Team Wolf Zhuque is probably the least expensive option at just under $50.
It's on Amazon as the Magicforce 108.
I love the Magicforce 68, but I'm just not a fan of the way the plastic bottom wraps up to form a lip on this full-size brother. They should've kept the floating keycap style.
Are you on PC? Is the Thrustmaster T150 (PC and PS4) or Thrustmaster TMX (PC and Xbox one) too expensive? This is as budget as I'd go if you want brand new. The downside is you only get two pedals but do have paddle shifters. If this is too pricy try searching craigslist around your area for any used Logitech Driving Force GT's (two pedals, no h-shifter, but has a sequential shifter), or a Logitech g27 (three pedals, comes with h-shifter).
If you do want three pedals and an h-shifter, then I think the Logitech g29 (PC and PS4) or Logitech g920 (PC and Xbox one) are the current best value as far as brand new. With craigslist you can possibly find better deals locally, but it can be a crapshoot.
Look for "Team Wolf" or Zhuque. Like this one. Full size board has RGB, TKL has different color LED for different rows, I believe. Also available from China through AliExpress (easy) or TaoBao (more complicated).
Mechanical Keyboards will last longer and will probably spawn an addiction to them later. If you want to get him a solid one that will also make him less prone to hand based injuries later in life, I recommend this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01E57PXKA/ref=mp_s_a_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1492474418&sr=8-10&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=magicforce+68
It won't have Red LEDs but those cost more money for a good keyboard. You have to spend around 120 USD for a good keyboard with any red LEDs or RGB. This at least has White LEDs.
Velocifire VM-01, Drevo Gramr, Nixeus Moda for browns. If you have a bit more money, though, I would go for a board from cooler master. I have one (with browns) and it's functional as well as RGB backlit without looking too "gamery". Hope this helps!
You should try a 75% since that layout has become pretty standard in recent years.
Budget:
Mid-range:
High end (custom):
Super high end:
--
Here's a 75% that I'm currently using: http://imgur.com/a/DMMql
Options I recommend:
Moving up, there's the Thrustmaster T16000M FCS HOTAS. This is the above T16000M stick along with Thrustmaster's new TWCS throttle. Totalling them up, you get 19 buttons, two 8-way hats, two 4-way hats, a two-way switch, an analog stick, throttle slider, rudder rocker, and an analog dial, which is plenty of room for all the stuff you need (note that the throttle has no detent, so you'll probably want to run it forward only with a button assigned to reverse). This is what I personally use and I quite like it. Note that all the components of this set are available separately and can function independently (each needs its own USB port, so you might want to buy a hub with these). So you could buy the stick today and the throttle next month. Or buy the throttle and some other stick or buy two sticks, or whatever. There's also a set of pedals available if that's your jam.
As for the money making, there are basically 3 options.
Whats your current specs?
I'd say avoid VR initially, I personally think it is the better overall experience but its a bit tough to learn DCS in and costs more overall in terms of hardware and performance.
So for under $1k budget, I'd get something like this if you can fit it in your space, or you could spend a bit more and get the [warthog]
(https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T16000M-FCS-Flight-Pack/dp/B01N2PE8CZ/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_147_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=N77385WVH3Q2D79PYPY2) which is a great setup, just no pedals.
Then, trackir or Open track for sure. And yes, you described how it works but its not a 1:1 head turn, and you can change the sensitivity. I don't really move my head more than 15 degrees or so.
Then I'd suggest buying the F/A-18, its a good mix of difficulty and capability.
After that, I'd go for the bottle neck in your system, but I dunno your specs. I'd suggest a 2070 super if you can afford it, or see if you can pick up some decent components over at /r/hardwareswap
After you've got some hours and feeling like you need more, maybe start saving for a VR headset, I'd suggest the index, but I've heard great things about the rift-s. Odessy + on a budget if need be.
Just a basic HOTAS like this or or with pedals but you don't really need them. Actually all you really nned is something like this
well, here's the page if you wanna keep it bookmarked
https://www.amazon.com/HTC-Vive-Deluxe-Audio-Strap/dp/B06Y2GDXMC/
You can buy one from Amazon, the Microsoft Store, Newegg, etc.
https://www.amazon.com/HTC-Vive-Deluxe-Audio-Strap/dp/B06Y2GDXMC/
https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/store/d/htc-vive-deluxe-audio-strap/8wz5cwh91s0q
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826918014
Rumor has it Amazon should be going live soon. Same with the HTC store.
Amazon 1 (Sometimes the
offer-listingpage updates before the product page.)Amazon 2
HTC Store
Never Sharkoon. The Logitech is good, though.
G402 seems to be just a couple dollars over $35, which would be even better:
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Hyperion-Gaming-Fusion-910-004069/dp/B00LZVNWIA/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1484600942&sr=8-7&keywords=logitech+g100
Can also get G303 (better version of the G302) for $40ish:
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Daedalus-Performance-Gaming-910-004380/dp/B00TKFD51M/ref=sr_1_1?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1484601088&sr=1-1&keywords=logitech+g303
G100s
revel
deathadder essential the same thing as the chroma but no rgb.
G303
G403 A bit outside your budget but its worth it.
G102 same thing as
G203
whatever you do, don't buy the $15 back alley abortion of a mouse.
Hi! I was recommended this converter a while ago in this same subreddit. They recommended me this one MAYFLASH 3 in 1 Magic Joy Box For Pc https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ND3XXA?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share. It works phenomenally!
I played them on my standard dance mats then upgraded to a Cobalt Flux Residential version and of course works great!
This + this + this.
You could have replaced that $15 spent on a keyboard & USB Drive with a $10 wifi adapter, then just SSH'd into the box and done everything that way from your PC, and then used SFTP or SCP to transfer ROM's to the Pi, or just when SSH'ed into the pi do
wget [download link]
Just FYI for anyone that wants to do this project. You also probably won't need a starter kit. Minimum you'll need:
Total Price: $44, I didn't include a keyboard because I assume everyone has one, you just need that for the initial setup and then you can use SSH.
They made the Xornet, but I never managed to get one.
I've been keeping my eyes on a cheap Redragon mouse. They have one that looks "similar-ish" in shape to that of the Spawn... I really prefer a ring finger rest area.
https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-Mammoth-Programmable-Profiles-Switches/dp/B00GU4F4OM
The Rosewill RK9000V2 on Amazon sells for around $80 and looks totally discreet.
Link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00S5E4KH2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503508354&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=rosewill+rk9000v2&dpPl=1&dpID=41KrvE-TUGL&ref=plSrch
This article is pretty recent and does a good job explaining a lot of the technical side of mechanical keyboards.
I'm not as knowledgeable and so can't talk about the nitty-gritty like the article does, but having used one since the summer (this one though I bought it for $80), I can say I definitely found them to be worth the price.
It's a bit of a weird start to get used to them, and the first thing I noticed was that they required a bit more intentionality than normal keyboards (I felt like I was pushing down a lot more than before). However, what's nice about them is that even though it feels like you have to put in more effort initially, I realized I was doing a lot less "mushing" of keys and that I made typos way less frequently because I knew exactly what I was typing when I was pushing down keys.
Going from a normal keyboard to a mechanical keyboard was a gradual shift, but I definitely noticed the benefits slowly. Going back to a normal keyboard after getting used to a mechanical one was like night and day, however. During finals when I spend a lot more time in my school library, I noticed that I actually had such a hard time writing anything because the keyboards were just so flimsy! I got so used to the weight, the noise, and the feel of a mechanical keyboard that the rubber-dome ones felt like I was typing on mashed potatoes. I thought about bringing my keyboard to the library, but the noise would have bothered others so I just ended up doing a lot more work at home.
On that note, a lot of mechanical keyboards have "click-clack" noises, but quite a few don't, so you can pick out what types you want. That's the other thing that's very nice is that you can customize and find out what types of key switches fit best for you instead of just a "one-size-fits-all" of the normal ones. I personally found that I liked Brown switches because the noise was actually a positive thing for me (they help me tell when I've typed a character) and are really soothing for when I'm doing a lot of work. Others don't like any noise at all, and there's at least two types I can think of that fit that as well. Some like their keyboards to have more resistance and some don't like any at all, and there's a switch for each preference.
Anyways, that was kind of long-winded, but hopefully some of that helped. As someone who's always heard that I should get one since 2010 and finally made the purchase a few months ago, I really wished I bought one sooner because oh my god they just feel so much better than regular keyboards. I will literally never buy a normal keyboard in my life ever again!
Edit: Also customizing keycaps! This is a pic of my current keyboard, and the name of the keycaps are Taihao Sunset.
For $100 I’d say the Qanba Drone
https://www.amazon.ca/Qanba-Controller-Fight-Stick-Drone/dp/B01I0GEDEY/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=drone+qanba&qid=1557242117&s=gateway&sr=8-2
Haven’t heard anything bad about it and apparently it’s easy to mod as well!
Logitech G29 - good value for money, tried and tested tech but it is a bit old being gear driven and can be a bit ratchety compared to a belt driven wheel if you care about these minor things. Pedals included are good especially at the G29 price point. Basically you can't go wrong here.
Thrustmaster T300 with standard pedals
T300RS with T3PA pedals - A bit more expensive than the logitech G29 and Thrustmaster have their fair share of horror stories regarding product defects but over all it's a solid wheel base for the majority. The T300 wheel base is a good wheel of choice for sim racing as It's belt driven so the steering is somewhat smoother and you have the modular steering rim option, just make sure to get a T300 package that comes with the T3PA or T3PA pro pedals. There's also the T150 which is a great starter wheel if you want a cheaper option than the T300 but you won't be able to take advantage of Thrustmasters modular wheel system in future and again, the standard pedals included aren't great.
Fanatec CSL Elite - Not wanting to leave the most expensive "starter" wheel base option out... The Fanatec CSL Elite wheel base for the PS4 will come close to blowing your budget of $500 and doesn't include pedals but it's another option on the table if you are interested in splashing the cash :).
I recommend to check ebay and any other buy/sell websites that you know if you're happy to buy used in case anyone who bought a nice sim rig or wheel and didn't like sim racing as much as they thought and are selling good kit for cheap. Happens more than you'd think!
Hopefully this helps somewhat and you can stay below that $500 mark.
Entirely depends on your budget - but at the very least something with Force Feedback, like the Logitech g29 with shifter - that's a very common setup. $200-450 is the figure you'd be looking at - depending on if what you want is on sale. A bit cheaper if you don't want a shifter and want to use the paddle shifters behind the wheels.
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-G29-Driving-Shifter-Bundle/dp/B016JBE8LU $299
I chose one a little higher priced, the Thrustmaster T300RS GT edition (3 pedal setup not the cheaper 2 pedal one without the clutch) as well as the TH8A shifter. I got the wheel on sale, full price on shifter. https://i.imgur.com/Y8Gg5oO.jpg
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T300-RS-Racing-Wheel-PlayStation/dp/B01M1L2NRL?th=1 $388 + https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-PC-PS3-PS4-Xbox-One/dp/B005L0Z2BQ $149
These wheels are much more than toys. You can feel the wheels on the road, traction loss, how much torque the cars have, if you slam into a wall the wheels can damn near rip your hands off (you can change the % of feedback to lower it). It makes the experience in VR feel super real. I'd say a wheel carries as much importance in VR racing as the headset does.
The craziest feeling I've gotten so far as just sitting at the start of a race idling in a '66 Mustang. The entire hood of this car is shaking back and forth like Dom's muscle cars in Fast and the Furious.....and the WHEEL is shaking left and right with the car exactly how you would expect something with that much power to. That thing was like 100% torque and it felt amazing.
Even if it takes some saving, I highly recommend one of them - although I would definitely wait until Black Friday to get $100 ish off of either one you choose. The sale prices for these are quite tolerable when they occur.
A stand for the wheel is much nicer than a table for mounting, but they can be pricey as well. From $100 and up. My Apiga AP2 stand was $280 but worth every penny to not have a bar in between your legs. Only $240 now and supports most wheels. https://www.amazon.com/APIGA-Foldable-Racing-Simulator-gearshift-ALL/dp/B00XBPYUIY
I didn't realize how much more difficulty hover mode adds to keyboard and mouse as opposed to a flight stick until I tried it recently. The Thrustmaster T16000M FCS is a good all purpose joystick at a decent cost, available on Amazon and elsewhere.
The Thrustmaster 16000M, either by itself, as a hotas, or as a hosas is regarded as a good entry level stick by many.
edit: best way to make credits in-game by far is mining, either surface mining for painite or core mining for void opals. Easily 100m/hr or more if you know what you're doing, and/or follow one of the many guides on youtube. I can't personally advise though as I've been actively avoiding it. I don't want to be rich so quick I have no idea what to do with it.
Thrustmaster T16000M FCS Joystick if you're REALLY pressed for space. Otherwise, I wouldn't hesitate to buy the Thrustmaster T.16000M FCS HOTAS Controller, which includes the HOTAS half of the setup. I think it's easily the best setup for the money.
edit: fixed the first link.
Buy two Thrustmaster T16000 Joysticks, they go on sale on Amazon in 3 days for $59. I just ordered two. Cheers
I recently bought a new ThrustMaster T150 at Amazon.com for $188.20 (US) (plus tax) to play on PC (it's also compatible with PS3 & PS4). I've played Project CARS & Assetto Corsa with it. It has paddle shifters (no clutch). For the price (compared to other options), I'm happy with the T150 so far. Better wheels cost more (new) than I want to spend.
I think the T150 might be the least expensive (new, not used) wheel that has force feedback. I haven't seen any bad reviews for it - the only "complaints" I've seen are just related to the fact that it's a budget wheel & so it doesn't have the deluxe features or feel that more expensive wheels have (but that's to be expected at the T150's price).
...At the moment, it looks like Amazon has the T150 available for $169.99 (US).
Logitech G29-about 300$, might be able to find it on sale somewhere. Pretty solid unit.
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Driving-Force-Racing-PlayStation/dp/B00Z0UWWYC
Thrustmaster T150-about 200$, entry level, you will probably want to upgrade the peddles later for another 100-150$.
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Force-Feedback-Racing-Wheel-PlayStation/dp/B014US02ZA/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1491247791&sr=1-1&keywords=thrustmaster+t150
I have been looking at a wheel by Thrustmaster, Its called the T150, it has 1080 degrees of rotation and pretty nice force feedback from what i am hearing. I would give that a look. Only $196 on amazon. I would give this one a look. This will work for PC and PS3 and PS4 also. http://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Force-Feedback-Racing-PlayStation-4/dp/B014US02ZA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451334141&sr=8-1&keywords=t150
One of these days, when I find the spare cash and the space, I'll buy the T300 Alcantara and a shifter...
If you're willing to wait, I'm pretty sure they drop to $300 somewhat often. I bought my Thrustmaster TX Leather for $300 a few months ago from Amazon, and it's normally $470, too. The shifter was only $130.
If you do get a wheel though, the Wheelstand Pro is so worth it if you're not planning on building some kind of big setup for it.
If your budget is sufficiently flexible:
I think the T300 Alcantara is the best bang for your buck near that price range.
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T300-Ferrari-Alcantara-Racing-Wheel/dp/B015KJ0SES/ref=sr_1_3?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1497120210&sr=1-3&keywords=t300&th=1
There is a big jump in performance once you upgrade to T300 level. Fanatec and the newer Thrustmaster wheels will perform better, but not in a radically different way. You won't get qualitatively better performance (to my knowledge) unless you spend upwards of 1000 on a direct drive wheel.
The Alcantara wheel has an amazing feel and size for the price. The pedals are also decent, and the most of the more expensive wheels (newer thrustmaster, fanatec, direct drive) don't come with pedals.
Depending on your budget, you may want to put off buying the shifter for later. I don't think I have a shifter recommendation, since I think that depends on your preferences. Eg, Sturdiness, ease of mode switching, shorter throw (clubsport) Longer throw, handbrake option (th8a)
Wut...
Thank you for sharing, I cancelled my order. I guess the Team Wolf CIY board is still the cheapest hot-swappable option.
Great budget sticks for dual-stick setup. Best price they've ever been on Amazon:
https://camelcamelcamel.com/Thrustmaster-T16000M-FCS-Joystick-Black/product/B01MQEDEEW
Sure. https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T16000M-FCS-Flight-Pack/dp/B01N2PE8CZ
T.16000M from Thrustmaster.
http://www.thrustmaster.com/en_US/products/t16000m-fcs
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T16000M-FCS-Flight-Pack/dp/B01N2PE8CZ/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1AI4E9YYZ26Q0&keywords=thrustmaster+t16000m&qid=1574377916&sprefix=thrustmaster%2Caps%2C183&sr=8-2
The T.16000M FCS (with the throttle) is more than enough for most modules (I've got everything except the WW2 birds and I've mapped everything I need), you can also get the pack with pedals included like here - I can fully map everything with only a couple of mappings as modifiers. It's a great starter set, highly recommend.
For that budget, you can't go past the Thrustmaster T16000m HOTAS kit.
HOTAS: https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T-16000M-HOTAS-Controller-2960778/dp/B01KCHPRXA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1542921662&sr=8-1&keywords=t16000m
Full flight kit with pedals: https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T16000M-FCS-Flight-Pack/dp/B01N2PE8CZ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542921662&sr=8-3&keywords=t16000m
VR for Elite is way cooler in my opinion than a HOTAS setup if you can only afford one. But if you end up wanting to get into this kind of controller setup for Elite, your best bet would be the Thrustmaster T16000M FCS Flight Pack with a second stick (roughly 210.00 plus tax in the US for all of it). That gets you the throttle, twin sticks, and pedals. Very close to the Steel Battalion controller.
As far as headsets for VR go, I've heard very good things about the Lenovo Explorer for Elite since Elite is a cockpit game, so you don't actually need one of the more expensive sets (Vive / Rift).
Again, If I could choose only one option (both are around 200 bucks) I would chose VR. I have about 800 hours in Elite, 700 of which are VR and about 100 using the above HOTAS/Dual stick setup for reference. I can tell you this though, having both VR and Hotas is pretty mind blowingly immersive. Cheers!
Edit: I'd like to also mention, after playing Elite with various HOTAS equipment, I've settled on the TM 16000m throttle and peddles, but my main stick is the X56 Rhino stick.
Try to get the package that includes the rudder pedals too because you're going to want those pedals. https://www.amazon.ca/Thrustmaster-T16000M-FCS-Flight-Pack/dp/B01N2PE8CZ
Does your budget include flight controllers? I like this set: https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T16000M-FCS-Flight-Pack/dp/B01N2PE8CZ/
HTC Vive Deluxe Audio Strap https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y2GDXMC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_u6ZkDb2BY0EZ1
I can third this is great for the quest. Super easy to install: https://youtu.be/RmnPnS4NOYo
You'll need a ring of some sort and about 3 strips of Velcro. Makes audio sooo nice! 😃
This now gives you a good excuse to do the mod!
I wanted to share my opinion on my first Franken-Quest setup.
I used:
- Gorilla tape - had some laying around
- Vive Deluxe Audio Strap https://www.amazon.com/HTC-Vive-Deluxe-Audio-Strap-pc/dp/B06Y2GDXMC/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=deluxe+audio+strap&qid=1568603404&s=gateway&sr=8-1
- Anker Powercore 10000 battery https://www.anker.com/products/variant/PowerCore-10000/A1263011
- Anker PowerPort Elite charger https://www.anker.com/products/variant/powerport-elite-2/A2023111
- USB cable https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZ8RA3A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This setup has been AWESOME! It's kind of like wearing a VR helmet now. I first tried the Vive strap without the battery for counter weight. I thought, how could everyone say this is more comfortable and worth the $100?
Then I attached the battery and the weight was distributed MUCH better. That's the key to this setup, balancing the weight of that front heavy beast, while remaining comfortable for extended periods of play, like 8 hours, give or take. I haven't really kept accurate track of time, but I'm pretty confident this setup extends the playtime to around 8 hours, and comfortably.
I've found that the weight is now more evenly distributed along the top strap and is held in place by the, excellently designed, back piece that very comfortably cups the back of my head.
The headphones sound amazing IMO. BUT that's only when applying extra pressure against my ears. For my ears, the phones rest comfortably, but I would prefer more pressure for that true surround with bass. If anyone has any suggestions please share. And if I come up with something, I'll update the post.'
My favorite thing to do with the Quest is play outside during overcast days or towards the evening when the sun is low. It feels so much more freeing IMO. I look forward to Mincraft once my GPU comes. That was always my favorite experience on the DK1 on. That is still the best VR game IMO. Although I wish there was still the Metacraft Server, I miss that place. I spent SO MUCH time in there building on my own land, going on quests, attending live broadcasts, the Nether quest... Such great memories.
That's what I'm most looking forward to again I think. A custom Minecraft VR server where we can all have our own land, help build cities, go on adventures, hang out... Anyone know what Wormslayers up to lately? Best Mod ever!
Other thoughts:
I'll probably switch the tape battery to Velcro for faster removal when wanting to use for charging something else, road trip or whatever.
I WISH THE UNITY QUEST DEVELOPMENT WORKFLOW WAS THE SAME AS THE RIFT OR VIVE! I got all setup and then learned that I would have to build each time in order to test out any changes :O That's insanity. It's unfortunate that Facebook/Oculus didn't release with this in place. I hope this is addressed sooner than later, because I'm all about freely jumping in and out Realtime instead of having to build every time I want to assess changes.
TLDR: This simple Quest setup gives the best VR experience I've had to date. (DK1, DK2, Gear VR, Rift, Quest, Vive, Odyssey) I would now recommend the Quest to anyone who wants an amazing !untethered! VR experience. But I would not recommend the Quest without this Mod. Mobile, high quality, comfortable and 8 hours of play for around $600 SWEET!
No problem! Haha I’ve spent quite a lot on VR games and accessories and these are the best games I’ve come across for the most part, probably missed a few.
If you don’t already have it, the deluxe audio strap
HTC Vive Deluxe Audio Strap https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y2GDXMC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_l9dNAb5VWXJVE
for the Vive is a necessity in my book, along with the leather face covers.
HTC Vive VR Memory Face Foam Replacement 6mm. Comfortable Pu Leather, Increased FOV. 2 pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0744B6PSQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_b-dNAb6MER44P
And if you’re really splurging and wanna attempt to battle VR sweat, I’ve found that these
http://www.vivenchill.com/ work surprisingly well.
R.I.P. your wallet.
there is no Gen 2 coming out any time soon. In fact, if you buy into Gen 1 now, you're getting: a %15 more lightweight vive that's easier to wear than the first release, as well as updated the new base station trackers (New on Left). The price on the vive is now $599 so you shouldn't feel too bad about buying into it now.
also with the money you save you can get a deluxe audio strap, a ViveNChill, and the silicone protective covers all for less than what I bought my vive for
PART TWO -- wrote this before seeing your VIVE arrives... basically tomorrow
-=- recommended accessories -=-
get the Deluxe Audio Strap. this is a MUST HAVE.
https://www.amazon.com/HTC-Vive-Deluxe-Audio-Strap-pc/dp/B06Y2GDXMC/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=htc+vive+deluxe+audio+strap&qid=1555922928&s=videogames&sr=1-1
i don't consider this an accessory...this is just absolutely CRUCIAL. installation took me ~15-20 minutes after watching a youtube video on how to install as the instructions that ship with it are ...lacking. there's a video of a german guy who shows you have to install it easily.... this strap adds not only great sounding, adjustable and comfortable headphones but (more importantly) will secure the HMD in a way that makes the default strap seem laughable. this deluxe strap allows more comfortable wear of the HMD, better cord management and eliminates the need for supplying your own audio (be it earbuds or headphones) while i ordered all of these "accessories" and received them before my VIVE, i decided to try the original / shipped strap before installing the "deluxe" and words can't describe the difference in fit, comfort, and how great the audio from the adjustable integrated earphones sound. the headphones are able to "snap" in an upright position when you are either removing /storing the HMD or just need to lift one up to hear something someone is trying to tell you...
-=-2nd suggestion for "accessories"-=-
probably most important second only to the deluxe audio strap.... get these tripods. you don't want to mount your lighthouses to your wall... with these tripods you are able to place your lighthouses without drilling/mounting. it is way worth the investment as the stands are very secure, adjustable and the lighthouses screw directly into them. no other parts needed, just these two stands... you'll realize that you might have to fine-tune/tweak the placement of the lighthouses slightly, and with these stands you are able to make adjustments (not only in placement but with the ball/swivel you are able to change the angle/pitch etc.) which you couldn't do if you mounted them.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B6FDKZ8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
-=-honorable mention -- not necessary but recommended...-=-
when i purchased my vive i made sure to get a nice stand to set the HMD/controllers on... (...i went a bit overboard with other accessories and for brevity i'll only mention two more accessories that i think you should pick up) here's the HMD/controller stand i purchased for when either storing the vive or to set it on while taking breaks/cooling off... . it isn't an absolute necessity but it gives it a nice place to rest the HMD/controllers during breaks between play (you will sweat a lot even in a cold room, i know i'm out of shape but with titles like sairento, sprint vector, space pirate etcetc i take breaks just to let my face breathe and cool off.) this beats just setting the HMD on the ground or on a nearby table which could easily fall off.... your call, but -- again, protect your investment!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D1N5GP4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
-=-
"Skywin VR cable management system"
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0733NN7G8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
-- these are simply pullies that attach to your ceiling, allowing the cable to be out of the way of the ground... personal preference here but i find these very useful (especially with titles where i'm moving around a lot... sairento, gorn, QuiVR etc) ... protip: i went to walmart etc, purchased -several- packs of 3M "Command" large picture and frame hanging strips 16lb "large picture hanging strips" and have them all over my ceiling at different strategic places (depending on if i'm playing a title that requires my entire room i.e having to move my bed for the max. play area, or if i'm playing a title that requires only the smallest room setup or even for sitting) so using the 3M strips instead of the adhesive that comes with the pullies in the kit, i'm able to switch around the location of the pullies to suit each above situation...also, they remove without damaging your ceiling... if you have any questions on this just message me and i'd be happy to elaborate.
-=-
last accessory suggestion -- after watching videos of people punching holes in their walls etc. i decided to grab these protective frames which have saved my walls and possible harm to my controllers when demoing my vive to friends (even though when demoing i always have chaperone on "beginner", floor bounds on etc) it -never- fails that they will try to throw a grenade and hit my ceiling, swing a punch while playing Gorn and instead of my vive controller slamming into the wall, the cage around the circular top part absorbs the impact and deflects/redistributes the force from one point of contact to several. just throwing this out there, just in case you or someone you are showing it to will be inadvertently throwing your controller into your wall
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XDLMYMQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
-=-
final thoughts/closing: hmm. well, i think i said a LOT here and hope that your experience with installation is pleasant. again, let us all know how your first experience went and feel free to ask any questions.
welcome to the subreddit, welcome to the VIVE family and congrats on embarking on this journey together with us
--kyle
Here is the link. My prime gave me free same-day shipping and the order says it will arrive tonight!
Kiwi straps suck. Mamut Grips are best for big hands, but are good. AMVR are the best grips. I own both grips. I threw the kiwi things in the garbage.
The silicon interface depends on the person. It doesn't sandpaper your face like the stock one, and feels nice and cool for the first 5 minutes, but it feels awful once it gets sweaty - imagine a wet rubber wedgie on your face. I currently have the VRCover 'facial interface set' with the 'comfort' pad that is pleather. It isn't perfect, but its the best I have found.
I hear some good things about the Studioform strap, but it looks hot and one more thing to mess with. I went went with the Vive Deluxe Audio Strap, but that costs money. I ripped the headphones out of it, so I just have stock audio. I love the quick-adjust thing on the DAS like a hard hat - makes switching people so much faster and better.
Then there is the cable. I don't do the Oculus Link, but even so I have kids and I have heard of people ruining the cable charge port on the Quest yanking on it. I got one of those magnetic USB adapters to reduce the risk of port damage.
All of the goodies need to fit in a case, and I love this thing - its super sturdy and fits it all without being too big.
Then if you want to play in the dark you need a good IR light so it is dark for your wife to sleep but the Quest can still see.
The RAP mini is okay but I wouldn't recommend it if you're going to upgrade. The buttons are small, not like all the other fightsticks. I would recommend the qanba drone instead : https://www.amazon.com/Qanba-Drone-PlayStation-4/dp/B01I0GEDEY
It's the cheapest fightstick that is worth it for the money, its only $10 more than the hori mini. The qanba drone also uses regular sized buttons so if you ever feel the need to commit to a larger stick in the future, the transition will be easier since it'll be same button sizes and stick size. The hori mini is small and it would be uncomfortable to play on your lap since you'd have to balance it on one knee, on top of that it doesn't have a lot of space for your wrists and hands. The drone is much more comfortable and has a slope for your wrists.
I highly recommend the Qanba Drone. I currently run 2 of them for a retro station at my local fighting game meetup. They go on sale often and I've had luck finding some on craigslist for $20 https://www.amazon.com/Qanba-Drone-PlayStation-4/dp/B01I0GEDEY
qanba drone, it’s like 60$ on amazon
Edit: Qanba Drone - PlayStation 4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I0GEDEY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nsEMAb1E742SB
here’s a link bud
In general, Das, for some reason or another, tend to be a little high-priced for the quality of the board. They're not bad, but you can find better for simliar pricing.
That particular Das you linked to uses some off-brand switch instead of Cherry or Gateron (Cherry is the original that they all copy, Gateron makes a well respected and popular clone).
For example, this Cooler Master Masterkeys L is cheaper, uses Cherry switches and has programmable white backlighting. And this Cooler Master Masterkeys L is only a little more expensive, uses Cherry switches and has programmable RGB lighting.
And Form Factor (from your other post) describes the physical size and layout of a keyboard. Full/100% is your standard keyboard. TKL is the next step smaller, and cuts off the numberpad. 60% is when you take a TKL and chop off the Arrow/Navigation keys and the F1-12 row, leaving just the alphanumeric characters and the surrounding modifiers.
Those are about the three most common form factors, but there are others as well (40% for those looking for something really portable and compact. 65% for those who want a 60% but can't live without the arrow keys.).
If you want full size, get this instead. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ITE93OM/ref=twister_B06Y52D72R?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Or this
https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=2050
Or this
https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=2375
Pro L is the one with numpad. It's well within your price range (RGB version is $130, white LED version is $90 https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01ITE93OM/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1503502965&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=masterkeys+pro+l&dpPl=1&dpID=411SzOfBkEL&ref=plSrch)
I don't really understand your objection, seeing as you said $160 is your price ceiling
T300RS GT is right at that price and comes with 3 pedals.
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T300-RS-Racing-Wheel-PlayStation/dp/B01M1L2NRL/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1488320317&sr=8-1&keywords=t300rs+gt
You can also look at T150 Pro or TMX Pro which are around $250 with the same pedals.
Cheap, or expensive, is relative. What budget do you have to work with? Basically, I would say in total for the rig, around $700-800 can get you something pretty decent, then you're looking for the actual console/PC and the games themselves as an additional price.
For a fairly cheap, but still best bang-for-buck rig, I would recommend:
All in all this comes down to $885 as of right now, if you want to save a little bit you could go for the original T300 GT Edition instead and it'll be $817.
The Simetik K2 is by far the best rig you can get in that pricebracket, but if you must save some more either skip the shifter for now or get a Playseat Challenge, it isn't the sturdiest but again, I do not recommend getting a rig with the pole in between your legs, I would personally rather play at a desk and an office chair than that, as it, at least for me, makes it really hard to heel-and-toe, and I love racing old DTM and GT cars with manual gearboxes and couldn't do without that.
T300 with T3PA set included...
little bit of a wait I guess,
but seems like a good deal
Okay, sure.
Duo Set - https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-16000M-SPACE-SIM-DUO-STICK/dp/B076XKZML8
Single Stick- https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-2960773-T16000M-Joystick-Black/dp/B01MQEDEEW/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_63_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=V057ET75WNB4K45T8ZXJ
MAYFLASH 3 in 1 Magic Joy Box For Pc
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ND3XXA/
I’m using two of these to connect to my PC to play DDR (Stepmania actually).
Plug-n-play, no extra driver needed to install on Windows 10. Just need to bind buttons in the config of the game.
This works great for me and has options for Xbox/PS/GC inputs (using PS for both my pads).
Did a bit of looking around, looks like someone who got it working used this to make it work
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ND3XXA/ref=cm_sw_su_dp
Using this adapter.
RK9000V2 for $79.99
iKBC F108
MagicForce 108
And none of these are on sale, but the Rosewill is regularly under $70 and is my current work board.
I'm rather partial to the Rosewill RK-9000V2 for my no-nonsense work/gaming keyboards. ~$90 on amazon and prime eligible.
Ducky One
MK2016
Leopold FC900
Rosewill
Can anyone suggest a wheel combo? I've seen http://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Force-Feedback-Racing-PlayStation-4/dp/B014US02ZA?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_sfl_title_2&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER suggested a lot, anyone have it?
I'd say the T150 is your best bet. I'm not sure if you're in the US or how the price would change depending on region, but the T150 Pro is on sale for $220. Comes with the T3PA pedals instead of the regular two-pedal board, it's great if you plan on using the TH8A shifter with your wheel. If not, the regular T150 and a DIY brake mod should do the job just nicely.
T300 Alcantara Bundle is the wheel to get. Its good all around, good base, good wheel and also pretty good pedals. Should be everything you need to get you started.
The T300 is the succesor to the T500 and its a better base in virtually everything.
iRacing is the place to go for public online simracing. Its expensive, but has a good penalty system that forces clean racing. It's good competition.
Alternatively you can also look for a league and race with them in any game really. Most serious simracing with fair opponents and no ramming etc is done in leagues or iRacing. It's not impossible to find good racing publicly in games, but often it has some rammers or the like.
There are many leagues out there, personally I race with Racedepartment but there are many more groups around.
Best game on how to learn is a difficult one, any game can do really ,the fundamentals of driving fast (and safe) are the same both in real life as well as in any simracing game.
I'd recommend watching this video on racing fundamentals, it covers everything to get you started. Don't expect to be the new Max Verstappen in just a few hours though :)
Not sure if the price changed but that shows $399 whle the T300 Alcantara is only $300 now and also comes with T3PA's. I might need to upgrade from my DFGT finally... tempting!
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T300-Ferrari-Alcantara-Racing-Wheel/dp/B015KJ0SES/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480382258&sr=8-1&keywords=t300+alcantara
I could be wrong, but I think it's this keyboard.
Magicforce are usually regarded as pretty good for the price so that one is likely no exception.
That isn't a TKL board though, it's a "75%" keyboard. It's a good layout but it will be difficult to replace the keycaps in the future because it has a non-standard bottom row and shift key.
For $60 it's a great price. My only alternative is this Team Wolf Zhuque which is quite ugly but is a true TKL and has a hot-swap switch ability.
This is probably the cheapest you can get I think. https://www.amazon.com/Team-Wolf-Swappable-Mechanical-Keyboard-Blue/dp/B01AFBJQA8
https://www.amazon.com/Team-Wolf-Swappable-Mechanical-Keyboard-Blue/dp/B01AFBJQA8
for those who don't feel like waiting.
Keep in mind that the leds are not rgb. Each row has a fixed none changeable color.
We have some Keyboard enthusiasts (myself included) attend. People have since turned up with suitcases full of custom keyboards. The razer RGB ones have nothing on what we bring to the party ahaha
The one @ 2:27 is actually a Drevo Gramr 84 with the tops of the keys sanded down to the translucent plastic. It makes the keys feel HORRIBLE but it looks quite nice.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/DREVO-84-Key-Tenkeyless-Mechanical/dp/B01H6DHITE
Drevo Gramr with Outemu browns would probably be your best bet. Ugly font on doubleshot keycaps, white backlighting, nice housing (Keycool rebrand), KC84 layout (my favorite, but everyone has their preferences). Usually goes for around $37 with promocodes and as low as $35, though it's not on sale at the moment. If you don't mind the slightly longer shipping (from experience, usually about a week despite the much longer estimates on the site), you can get it on Aliexpress from a good seller for $37 now (or $34 with Aliexpress's coupon games, probably not worth playing). It's also available on eBay for $42 from a well-rated distributor (Dinsdale). If you're on the extreme cheap end of things, Dinsdale occasionally auctions things and you could potentially get the keyboard for ~$30.
If you're looking for a tactile switch then MX Brown isn't particularly tactile but you may like it, it's good to try a variety of different switches as well, so perhaps try getting a switch tester. However if you just want to get straight into getting a board, here a few options:
Link
It might also be a good idea trying to get a board with hotswappable switches, so that you can buy new switches in the future to swap in. There are also some good tactile vintage boards you can get, however prices for these may vary - Chyrosran22 on YouTube has a lot of videos about some really good vintage boards and does many overviews of different switches.
Hope you're able to find a good board for a good price! - Just PM me if you wanna talk more.
At that price point I would absolutely look to buy a used keyboard, maybe a nice vintage one. You're actually going to be stuck with a gamer look at this price and most fullsize boards come in clicky switches.
If you can stretch the budget I'd get something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-Backlight-Magicforce-Qisan/dp/B01HHTFSIK/ref=sr_1_14?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1518016930&sr=1-14&keywords=brown+switch+keyboard
It will have better switches and a cleaner look with the LEDs off, as well as having the option for backlight if it's a particularly gloom day.
Thrustmaster T150 + Thrustmaster TH8A is the closest you're gonna get. It also gets you into the Thrustmaster ecosystem, which is great for when you potentially look for more upgrades in the future, such as a new wheel base of pedals.
Can easily do it for around $200, but you'll be wanting to be spending at least that much on individual components by year end. This rabbit hole is a dark, and very very deep one ;)
Thrustmaster T150 for ~$150
G29 for ~$200
TMX by itself for ~$180 but you need to buy pedals/shifter by itself
Hyperkin silicon gel controller and headset covers.
Hyperkin lens covers.
Seinheisser HD 598 SE headphones.
Leap Motion
Wooden HMD Stand
Wii Controller Straps
EDIT (Few more):
Overhead Cable Suspension Solution
Acoustic Wall Foam
Floor Mat
Racing Wheel
Subpac
The TM T150 is [$129 on amazon]
(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014US02ZA?ref_=sr_1_8&s=videogames&qid=1480000547&sr=1-8&keywords=g29&pldnSite=1)
+1 for Alcantara version. http://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Ferrari-Alcantara-Racing-playstation-4/dp/B015KJ0SES
Having a wheel does make the whole experience much more immersive and enjoyable.
If you are worried about not enjoying racing games with a wheel then I'd suggest a used G27/G29/DFGT if you can find one. You might find setting up and tearing down the wheel to be tedious, so I'd look into getting a stand as well, but that can come later.
I mentioned this already in another post, but the Thrustmaster T300 Alcantara Edition package is a very solid choice. Normally, the price is $469 on Amazon, but I saw it go for $299 during Black Friday and during the Christmas/holiday season. I picked it up when it was on sale, and for that price, its extremely well worth it. This setup is far superior to any of the Logitech wheels/pedals. My roommate has a Logitech G29, and that thing feels like a toy in every way compared to the T300. The T300 is much quiter, smoother feeling, and the pedals feel much more realistic (for this price range). Also just the diameter of the wheel alone makes a huge difference in the feel. It does not come with a separate shifter, but you can always add that in the future.
I have tried the G29 and the T300 side by side, and I can answer any questions you might have about them. Currently I'm using the T300 Alcantara package with a Fanatec 1.5 SQ shifter. The shifter adds ALOT to the experience, and it was totally worth the money IMO.
You've probably already seen this but the t300rs alcantara is on sale https://smile.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T300-Ferrari-Alcantara-Racing-Wheel/dp/B015KJ0SES/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480328060&sr=8-1&keywords=t300+alcantara
I suggest this instead. Way better value. The stock rim and pedals on the TX are honestly a toy.
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T300-Ferrari-Alcantara-Racing-Wheel/dp/B015KJ0SES/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481820130&sr=8-1&keywords=T300+Alcantara
On backorder but same price on amazon
I just picked up this wheel and I absolutely love it. It's out of stock right now but it should be back in soon I imagine
Thrustmaster VG T300 Ferrari Alcantara Edition Racing Wheel for PS4, PS3 and PC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015KJ0SES/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GRKtybA2ZW60X
If you purchase the T300 Alcantara setup, it comes with the T3PA pedal set.
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Ferrari-Alcantara-Racing-playstation-4/dp/B015KJ0SES
It does exist. It's called the Zhuque Create it Yourself, known as the CIY and is on Amazon US here
https://www.amazon.com/Team-Wolf-Swappable-Mechanical-Keyboard-Blue/dp/B01AFBJQA8
http://www.pcgamingrace.com/products/glorious-modular-rgb-mechanical-gaming-keyboard-barebones
If you want customizable lighting and TKL you'll have to wait for the TKL Glorious later this year.
https://www.amazon.com/Team-Wolf-Swappable-Mechanical-Keyboard-Blue/dp/B01AFBJQA8
I use this as my daily driver. the hot swap feature works well and its a nice keyboard overall. Quite ugly though.
Ganss for $93.
Team Wolf Zhuque and 120 SMD Gateron Greens for $95.
MK's Cherry Green and Gateron Green.
So a KBP V60 with Gateron Greens looks to be the cheapest option, followed by the Ganss.
Magicforce boards are pretty nice, this one is even backlit.
I didn't find any Magicforce keyboards offered for sale right now. Here's the Drevo that was mentioned. https://www.amazon.com/Drevo-84-Key-Tenkeyless-Mechanical/dp/B01H6DHITE/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1483889113&sr=8-7&keywords=tenkeyless+mechanical+keyboard
DREVO 84
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H6DHITE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_STy9ybF1THWT7
Seems best to start very cheap so you can start to figure out what you like, maybe this one https://www.amazon.com/DREVO-Backlit-Mechanical-Keyboard-Switch/dp/B01H6DHITE?th=1&psc=1
Qisan/Magicforce Full size white backlit, but brown switches and $70
This is a good option and is what I have https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-Backlight-Magicforce-Qisan/dp/B01HHTFSIK/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1492276676&sr=1-1&keywords=magicforce+gateron+brown
Kailh switches are generally considered to be lower quality than Cherry or Gateron. The keyboard looks like it has a standard bottom row, so that opens up your keycap opportunities, but keycaps are rarely below $20 from any manufacturer.
This keyboard is from a more reputable brand, and has Gateron Browns. It also comes with white keycaps by default - but the case is white too. It's also in a similar price range.
Excellent budget option, pretty damn nice looking, comes with shockingly good ABS keycaps (they feel great, not very thick to be expected but they're damn nice for the price), comes in either Cherry MX, Gateron, Kailh or Outemu switch variants (obviously, price varies), has 3 different colour options (black, gold and silver/white) and has a couple of different LED options (typically from what I can tell, the Cherry MX/Gateron variants have either solid white or solid blue LEDs, whereas the Kailh/Outemu variants come with blue LEDs but orange WASD/arrowkeys. Has a removable cable too.
I say generic because there's a lot of companies taking the reference of this board and rebranding it, just changing the logo etc. It's got decent build quality, cheap as hell in terms of price, Outemu switches from what I can tell, and well, it's cheap. Overall I'd choose the Magicforce over this any day, but it's an option of course.
Those are the main 2 I'd consider, the fullsize Magicforce is also a decent option though it's a hair below $70.
Nixeus Moda Pro w/ Kailh Browns $65 on Amazon
MagicForce Crystal 108 w/ Gateron Browns $70 on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Joystick-PlayStation-Fighting-Officially-Licensed-4/dp/B01I0GEDEY
80$ so bit higher than you want but its easy even with no knowledge to open up and replace parts if something does go wrong
I have a qanba carbon which is same parts as it and made excellent entry stick bit it doesn't support PS4 but the sticks are very comparable so I do recommend that one
Sticks like this or this are definitely "not good enough". If you read the associated reviews and they speak positively it is almost always in context of "budget" and "easily modded".
If you've never played on generic parts vs. good ones you'd be surprised how big the difference is. It isn't just some weird snake oil elitism.
I can say I have never seen the obsidian go lower then $160 so I think that's a steal. As for the TE2+ the pricing gets tricky since they don't make it anymore the price seems to always be inflated a couple months ago they where at over $300+ easy. I would say this sale is about as good as it is going to get until EVO since the prices on sticks only seem to drop around the release of new Fighting games and DBZF is huge right now so they are pushing them hard. But of course you do get random stuff like the Panthera being $140 I even missed out on that sale. But once the hype goes down for DBZF you won't see a sale on them for easily 6 months since they are a very niche product. It has gotten to the point where I get excited every time there is a huge fighting game out even if I have no intention of playing it since the sticks will finally come down in price. Here is the sales history of the TE2+ on amazon, Obisidan, and Drone. You can see its crazy how they rarely go on sale and when they do it is always with hype of a new game or Black friday. I mean hell the obsidian seems to never be on god damn sale, I would say if you wanna buy buy now before we enter the drought but that's just me.
If you want Full size, with white LEDs take a look at the
Cooler Master<br /> MasterKeys Pro Lfor 105 USD.There is also a RGB version and two smaller versions.
But I don't think it has the silent switches. If you choose brown or red, it will be more quiet then Blue, as they don't have a click. That is I assume your current board has blue switches?
I don't know if all modern board with red switches are the silent red version. The non silent version still makes a sound when you bottom out, as plastic hits plastic.
If you want to buy once and never again, Fanatec is probably your best bet but it comes at a price.
ClubSport V2.5 Wheel Base is my recommendation for wheel base, check out the steering wheels you like and pick one, this is more preference. This base should basically last you forever, DD wheelbases are highly over-rated in my book.
ClubSport Pedale V3 because they come with the load-cell upgrade already and this is probably the most important upgrade if you take sim racing seriously, it greatly helps with your braking being more consistent.
If else, check out the setup I use. I honestly love it and I don't really see myself upgrading anytime soon. I plan on getting a new setup maybe next year and I'll most likely buy what I posted above if they are still available at the time.
Thrustmaster T300 RS GT and T3PA Pedals
Still active at this link: https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T300-RS-Racing-Wheel-PlayStation/dp/B01M1L2NRL/ref=sr_1_2?crid=6OEFOQ2V2JHD&keywords=thrustmaster+t300&qid=1563221078&s=videogames&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&sprefix=Thrustmaster+%2Cvideogames%2C185&sr=1-2
Need a budget, but since you just learned to drive, I'm guessing you're young and funds are limited. As /u/MrTrt already said, the T300 is probably the cheapest wheel with swappable rims. https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T300-RS-Racing-Wheel-PlayStation/dp/B01M1L2NRL/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=thrustmaster+T300&qid=1562172552&s=gateway&sr=8-1
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If you have a bigger budget, then start looking at Fanatec as they have a TON of rim options and price ranges. If you can spend into the thousands, then a direct drive wheel is the way to go.
Heard the tracking isn't great on the WMR's but this with the Thrustmaster T300 RS that's on sale for $200 would be a pretty neat sim racing setup for under $400 if you have the gpu to power it.
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T300-RS-Racing-Wheel-PlayStation/dp/B01M1L2NRL/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=thrustmaster+t300rs+gt&amp;qid=1562597534&amp;s=gateway&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;sr=8-3
It's a G29 but I have pulled the pedals out from their casing and made my own retractable pedal box. It works just the same. There is also a similar G920, the G29 works with PC and PS3/4 while the G920 works with PC and Xbox one.
I would say that a wheel adds a great deal of immersion to racing, there are cheaper options but I upgraded pretty much immediately because the paddles on the cheaper wheels are rubbish. They are force feedback so you can feel the car moving through the wheel.
My wheel is barely considered entry level, in fact hardcore enthusiasts will not accept anything less than a Thrustmaster T300 which is out of my price range.
There's a good deal on the Thrustmaster T300 RS GT on Amazon atm, not sure if that helps you based on the euros.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M1L2NRL?th=1
so TBH all I have is a right handed stick that I use in my left hand. Its rather uncomfortable, but let me tell you I fly a million times better. One day I'll get myself a T16000m to fly with. That will be the day. Ambidextrous joysticks are rather uncommon, unfortunately.
Ultimately, it's going to be a matter of taste. What sounds like the most fun to you? That's the question I asked myself a few years ago when the original Arena Commander module released. I decided the answer to that was dual stick, so I got myself a cheap left handed joystick and tried it. Turns out I love it! If immersion is what you're looking for, joysticks certainly deliver, at least in my experience. But I've been playing with joysticks for two decades now so I'm familiar with adjusting to odd control schemes. You may not want to invest that time, effort, and money.
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If you do decide to try it out, however, there are a lot of cheap options that will give you a taste of what you're looking for without breaking the bank. I used the Extreme 3D pro joystick before upgrading recently, and it was a good option for only $30. Link HERE. There's also the T16000M which is fully ambidextrous for $60. I used it to test dual stick flight. Link HERE. And you may find them cheaper used. You can always upgrade later if it turns out you really like the setup, which is what I did.
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If all you want to do is run cargo and explore, though, any options will be fine. If you think you'll be happy with mouse and keyboard, don't sweat it! I like decoupled flight and combat so having that additional control over my thrusters is nice and immersive, but that's my situation, not yours.
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Again, ask yourself honestly what sounds like fun and go from there. If mouse and keyboard seems sufficient to you, there's no point in spending money. No amount of advice from other people can top that.
Amazon (US) has both the flight stick and flight pack on sale. Not sure if they'll go any lower.-
Flightstick: $40, down from $60
Flightstick + Throttle: $97, down from $107
Flight pack: $130, down from $160
Thrustmaster T16000M. Replaced my old logitech 3d pro which was a workhorse for many years for me and prob the majority of this community. But was floored with the level of precision and ergonomics of the Thrustmaster. Its because it has hall effect sensors rather then pententiometers which alot of the old flight hardware tends to have. I got the whole package with throttle and pedals and never looked back. Tons of programmable buttons too! Prob the best stick you can get in the sub $100 price category.
Thrustmaster T16000M FCS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQEDEEW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_IWXxCbJ1V06FB
FYI T16000m sticks are on sale for $39 at Amazon
And for those in Canada- it’s cheaper still than buying from Amazon.ca even with shipping and currency exchange, and there is a 1 per limit cap on the current sale.
Source- just bought two, shipping north of the border.
There aren't a lot of cheap HOTAS options. Some things to consider:
The Extreme 3D Pro is a very entry-level stick. It will get the job done, but you need to know that you'll be replacing it in a couple years or less if you use it heavily. It's plastic-on-plastic and wears pretty fast, and it's not got the greatest precision to begin with.
The T16000M is a better entry-level stick, being both more precise and better able to stand up to wear over time.
If you can convince your dad to spring for something slightly more expensive, the T16000M HOTAS package gives you a throttle to use as well, and would mean that you could set up to acquire an affordable sim package over the next year by using facetrackNOIR or other webcam-based head tracking, plus saving up for a set of rudder pedals.
The cheapest non-junk HOTAS, and the only one close to your budget, is the Thrustamaster T1600m and FCS,
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T16000M-FCS-Flight-Pack/dp/B01N2PE8CZ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1524072714&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=thrustmaster+t16000m
It's a bit over your budget with the pedals but if you want authentic flight then you need them. You could buy for less without the pedals and use the paddles on the throttle for yaw.
>Logitech X-56
I'm really trying to save money right now since I just ordered an RTX card. I was thinking about this flight system. Is it any good?https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T16000M-FCS-Flight-Pack/dp/B01N2PE8CZ/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
Have you used the Outemo blue/brown switches before? Just curious.
Mechanical Keyboard with Brown Switches,Rottay LED Backlit 104-Key Mechanical Gaming Keyboard with Anti-ghosting Ergonomical Perfect for PC&Mac Gamers and typist(black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0747D3YWR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_W42cAbZHDJJY9
Gaming Keyboard Mechanical Brown Switches 104-Key Doubleshot ABS Outemu Velocifire VM01 LED Illuminated Backlit Anti-ghosting Keys Full Size (Wired) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M0QEYR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_K62cAbWPPYAP4
Redragon K556 RGB LED Backlit Wired Mechanical Gaming Keyboard, Aluminum Base, 104 Standard Keys https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NAI2TXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_x72cAbPKDF81N
Found 3 at good price with good reviews. I would personally pick the Redragon if I were buying one.
Editing is crap cause I'm on mobile. Sorry for the mess.
I have a Redragon Devarajas and I really like it. Plus it is built like a tank.
Redragon K556 RGB LED Backlit Wired Mechanical Gaming Keyboard, Aluminum Base, 104 Standard Keys https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NAI2TXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_el2UBbHF6205C
I just got a Redragon K556 off Amazon and couldn't be happier. Full aluminum case (that feels awesome btw). On board memory and completely programmable through the keyboard, but comes with software which I appreciated. Completely modular plug and play switches. Fits any 3 pin cherry mx or knockoff. Tested myself with Cherrys and comes with Outemu browns. You'll have to grab "LED"/"RGB" versions of Gateron or Outemu switches off ebay though if you wan't the LED's to shine through. Cherry doesn't seem to make a shine through switch that I could find. I got these on the way. You'll notice the slit on the bottom that lets the light shine through from behind the switch.
I didn't really want a logo on my board, but at least its a cool looking dragon and not a written name. And for only $60 it left me a lot of extra cash left over for the switches I wanted and ordering some custom caps.
I purchased the Redragon K556 Devarajas on Amazon about a month ago and I'm really happy with it so far:
https://smile.amazon.com/Redragon-K556-Mechanical-Keyboard-Aluminum/dp/B01NAI2TXC/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=redragon+devarajas&qid=1555392817&s=gateway&sr=8-3
I have this keyboard, https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-K556-Mechanical-Keyboard-Aluminum/dp/B01NAI2TXC which keycaps would fit without problem? it has 2 different options and I want to dab into customizing my mechanical keyboard.
Oh god, yes, we have. You ordered from HTC direct, correct?
Good luck to you comrade. There's many of us that... Don't have very nice things to say about HTC. In any case, enjoy your Vive! It is a fantastic piece of kit. Think about getting the Deluxe Audio Strap for increased comfort and pretty nice built in headphones.
I would say it's as close to the vive w/ DAS as the quest could be comfort-wise, an immense improvement overall. The face cushion of the vive is more plush but that's the only difference IMO.
Links are in the description, but here they are as well:
edit: added new velcro
Cloth VR Cover $20: https://vrcover.com/product/htc-vive-pre-vr-cover/
Deluxe Audio Strap $99: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y2GDXMC/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_QzC0CbGN011FW
Only other thing would be HDMI / USB 3.0 and link box power extension cord. There is a post explaining which cables work best.
From what I understand, this adapter should work on mac
Non-mobile version
http://www.amazon.com/Gamecube-XBox-Controller-Adapter-favorite-PC/dp/B000ND3XXA
I've used both
http://www.amazon.com/Gamecube-XBox-Controller-Adapter--favorite-PC/dp/B000ND3XXA
and
http://www.amazon.com/GC-Controller-Adapter-for-PC/dp/B0089NVTDM
Both work quite well.
MAYFLASH 3 in 1 Magic Joy Box for Pc
Canada: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000ND3XXA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Dp37CbJACA8YR
USA: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ND3XXA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Hr37Cb7W6QN3P
Yes, that controller is freaking sweet. I just can't justify spending that much on it. This is a little cheaper, but I don't like the design as much. [Wired} is cheaper and still cool, but I need more buttons. This is even cheaper, and I might switch to it at some point. Right now I have two controllers which is enough.
Did you see this? It's essentially what I'm going for, but with more games. You can pack a LOT of games into the Pi version.
I don't have any personal experience with it, but when I researched this a while back it people seemed to recommend the Tomee branded SNES controller over others
Hi there, sorry for the late answer I was out for the week-end!
It will depends highly on what you expect him to do with it, and also your budget. But for the more standard it will be at least:
Then there can be:
And I confirm, it can be a pretty cool gift for a friend to build :)
Steam Link isn't a bad idea, but I've been considering getting a Raspberry Pi and installing Retropi. All in all, I don't expect to spend more than $75.
Emulation Station
Raspberry Pi Model B
USB SNES controller
32Gb MicroSD w/ adapter card for storage
If you or know someone who has a 3D printer, you can print your own case for the Pi
Edit: Just realized you said "my pc hooked up to the tv" - skip the whole getting a Pi part
There is no cheap way to do this, you are looking at about $300-$400. It's a great idea though, I have an old NES that just crapped out on me about a month ago, I may try this too.
I did find this instructable, that should give you a good starting point. Amazon has USB SNES controllers and NES controllers.
After you built the hardware I would suggest loading up some sort of Linux distro, if you are new to linux I would suggest Ubuntu. The emulator software is easy to install with that as well, FCEUltra for NES only, or bsnes for NES, SNES, and GameBoy, GBC and GBA. MAME will work for arcade games.
But if you want a truly portable emulator get a Dingoo.
I bought mine for a few dollars and haven't had any problems with input lag or poor quality or whatever. And if you are really worried about input lag, you could just get a SNES USB controller.
I have one, it's Bluetooth and got it on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BALK9CM
Thanks for the thoughts, although im pretty sure i'll need the optical drive for my drivers for my mouse and tablet
http://www.amazon.com/Redragon-Precision-Programmable-programmable-Cartridge/dp/B00GU4F4OM
My favorite mouse of all time. Not for the dpi (I only go up to 1200), but for the superb feel in hand. I don't have any complaints with this mouse at all.
I have somewhat large hands, but I have been very happy with my Redragon Mammoth.
Adjustable DPI is nice. I don't move my wrist either, and it's easy to grip.
RK-9000V2 BR is probably one of the cheapest full size Cherry board. It's also 'office safe' since it looks just like a $10 regular keyboard. People rated it good for its solid build.
Here are some of the cheapest. An actual budget will help more though.
You might be able to find something cheaper on /r/mechmarket but you will need 10+ comment karma and a 30 day old account to use the sub.
Cougar cherry blues
Rosewill cherry blues
Cherry cherry blues
Magiforce Gateron blues
From personal experience I can say Gateron switches are equal to cherry switches in quality.
If you can't find something here, check out the Rosewill RK-9000v2. Currently $69 on Amazon with Cherry Blues and it's fullsized.
Well, a lot of folks on r/mk (myself included) seem to be in agreement that Gateron switches are better than Cherry, and those are "knock-offs" so I dont think anyone will downvote you for not buying "branded" switches.
The few people who have posted about their red dragon boards seem to like them, and as far as backlight goes, that aesthetic is up to you.
What country are you trying to buy this keyboard in? If you search mechanical keyboards on amazon, you see a bunch of cheaper options that do have numpads. If you want a mechanical numpad, jellycomb makes one for $20 USD.
Here is a TOMOKO with numpad for $55 https://www.amazon.com/TOMOKO-Mechanical-Keyboard-Resistant-Anti-ghosting/dp/B01IHVN4GA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478280296&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=mechanical+keyboard+tomoko
Rosewill is $60: https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Mechanical-Keyboard-Switches-RK-9000V2/dp/B00S5E4KH2
If you really want a solid keyboard with a numpad, the coolermaster TK retails in the US for $80 https://www.amazon.com/CM-Storm-QuickFire-TK-Mechanical/dp/B00A378L4C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478280161&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=coolermaster+keyboard
The Ducky One is another great option if you can save up the $115
Are you 100% sold on that particular keyboard or would any with labeled media keys suffice?
Edit: Here, I went and found some keyboards that are full size, have brown switches, have labeled media keys, and are less than or equal to the price of that keyboard. All from US.
Rosewill RK-9000V2
CM Storm Quickfire XT
Ducky One
Das Model S
If you don't find anything you like here, you can get a Rosewill RK-9000v2 on Amazon with Browns for $79.99. I just bought one for work about a month ago, and I've been very happy with it. Very minimal, basic keyboard that gets the job done, no frills.
Link
So after some research and waiting I've got my first new mechanical keyboard since the old Tandy days. I went with a Rosewill RK-9000V2 BR with Cherry MX Brown switches and Maxkey DOLCH doubleshot ABS keycaps. The caps just arrived and I installed them today. So, so nice! I am so totally loving this setup. Thanks to everyone who posts to this group for all the keyboard porn that got me hooked on spending the money and getting a new keyboard. Here are the links to to pictures and the sources I used.
Imgur
Imgur
Imgur
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00S5E4LX0/ref=pe_3034960_236394800_TE_dp_1
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/MAXKEY-DOLCH-SA-Double-shot-ABS-keycaps-for-mechanical-keyboard/32818565728.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.KyKX1h
If you're looking for a full sized keyboard that's got a plastic case and nothing flashy, I would suggest the Rosewill Rk9000 line.
They're basically cheaper Filco's that are made in the same factory. I've been using one at home for 5 years no with no complaints
The Rosewill RK-9000V2 is a pretty good keyboard for its price i'd say
Make sure it is branded Cherry MX switches, not proprietary "mechanical switches" like some Razer keyboards have. Accept no substitutes.
Here's one I recommend
https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Mechanical-Keyboard-RK-9000V2-BR/dp/B00S5E4LX0
When buying a mouse, make sure it has a good sensor and it is suited for your grip style (the most common grip styles being palm and claw).
My current mouse is a claw grip mouse, the Logitech G303. It has the PMW3366 sensor, which is arguably one of, if not, the best sensor on the market.
Other good brands are Zowie and SteelSeries.
edit: also, if you dont already, get a mousepad!
You might want to look into the Logitech G303. It fits into your budget, it's a good "small hand" mouse, clicks are really nice, performs really well, and Logitech are known for making workhorse mice.
Logitech G303 + Review
Logitech G102 + Review
Cougar Minos X3 + Review
All taken from this page, he's a great mouse reviewer.
PSA: This price is currently matched on amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Daedalus-Performance-Gaming-910-004380/dp/B00TKFD51M/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485961872&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=g303
Update:
I just ordered the G303, it was $23 off on amazon and I couldn't resist. here's the link if anyone else wants to buy it: http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Daedalus-Performance-Gaming-910-004380/dp/B00TKFD51M/ref=sr_1_1?s=videogames&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1453980898&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=G303
if you really don't want to go over $35 then definitely take the g302, if you can sped a few more you could go for the g303, which is $40 and has the same shape as the g302 but better sensor. some people also have problems with the g302 "wobbling" because it has no mouse feet on the sides of the mouse
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00TKFD51M/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484610023&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=logitech+g303&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=314UDpL3BCL&amp;ref=plSrch
you could also look at the logitech g203, also$40 it has a rounder shape than the g302 and is probably a safer choice than the g302 unless you know you are comfortable with the shape.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M26YUKO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484610539&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=logitech+g203&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=319KAiGobEL&amp;ref=plSrch
Amazon has price matched it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TKFD51M/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
On PC I can use an Atari 2600, NES, Genesis, SNES, N64, PS1/PS2, Gamecube, XBox, PS3 (with bluetooth), Xbox 360, Wii (with blutooth), XBone (Micro USB), PS4 (Bluetooth) and Wii U Controllers as well as the the countless other 3rd party controllers.
On Xbox 360 I can can use an Xbox 360 controller.
Less than $6 shipped for a PSOne/PS2 to USB adapter is pretty cheap, in my opinion (And in my experience, this allows a PS2 controller to be used on a PS3 natively). $15 shipped for a combination PSOne/PS2, first-gen Xbox, and Gamecube all-in-one adapter seems pretty cheap, too.
But you also can't use your PSOne or PS2 controller on a PS3 or PS4 (without adapter above). Nor can you use a Dualshock 3 with the PS4. (Source)
And you can't use your Xbox or Xbox 360 controller with your Xbox One. (Source)
While PS3 and PS4 controllers both work either wired or via standard Bluetooth on both PCs and mobile devices usually with minimal effort; and XBox 360/One controllers work natively with Windows (not surprising as Microsoft manufactures them).
That's the one that I'm refering to, yes. This other one has compatibility issues with more recent OSes.
Also, tons of folks have vouched for the one you linked working well/reliably for longer than I've had it.
I've got one of
http://www.amazon.com/Gamecube-XBox-Controller-Adapter--favorite-PC/dp/B000ND3XXA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1372451147&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=gamecube+usb
These.
Not really any problems I've been able to spot.
Also, if you could let me know how those work I'd be grate ful
Type of Bug: Game force closes at launch
Description: The Easy Anti Cheat says "INTEGRITY VIOLATION" when the game launches. File path c:\Windows\System32\ffdrv1.dll
Video / Screenshot: https://puu.sh/u9Oc6/0badd5f100.png
Steps to reproduce: Simply launching the game
Result: Cannot launch or play the game
Expected result: Enter the main menu and able to play the game
Reproduction rate: 10/10
Edit: I figured out what it is. It is a driver for this controller adapter.
As an alternative to /u/DolphinUser's suggestion there's also this
http://www.amazon.com/Gamecube-XBox-Controller-Adapter--favorite-PC/dp/B000ND3XXA/
For Mac, I use the 3 in 1 Magic Joy Box. It sounds sketchy, and it says it has no support for Mac, but it works totally fine. The only downside is that it only has one port for Gamecube controllers. This adapter seems to actually only work on Windows, but it has 2 ports for controllers.
I have one that does it. It has analogs for both joysticks and the shoulder buttons, and also a digital for the click at the end of the shoulder buttons. It's here. Although, you may run into problems with the left stick not registering you pushing it all the way even though you are, like it has a reduced range. I fix this with a script in GlovePIE and a virtual joystick using PPJoy. (It could be a little complicated for someone who doesn't know programming.)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ND3XXA/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
The cheapest (as long as it stays marked down). That's pretty much it!
Thank you for the opportunity!
EDIT: Removed second item. Decided I don't need it.
I bought a off-brand USB Snes controller. It works great for Cave Story.
I bought this SNES USB controller and love it for the retro SNES stuff.
I have these. Very retro and small
Tomee SNES USB Controller for PC/ Mac https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0034ZOAO0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_iYDxDbVN15NHT
Get one of these, then get a few of these, put a SNES emulator on this bad boy along with your favorite games, and you have a modern-day SNES.
I know it's the same as inserting a cartridge into the console, but as quality as emulation as nowadays (especially for 32-bit consoles and older), you won't be able to tell the difference.
Edit: I wanted to add that if you don't mind using a controller layout that isn't identical to the SNES layout, you can use a Nintendo DS and PSP models to play SNES games on the go. Alternatively, if you have an old console, you can softmod them. I did that with my Wii, but if you really want a powerhouse emulation machine, an original Xbox is the way to go. If you have any questions man let me know, I've done my fair sure of emulating so I can give you a few pointers if needed.
>hooking on the street since the "incident"
>> << This is a joke right?
Whimsical fuckery, go!
This USB snes controller is pretty sweet. Its not the best, but it works well with emulators and current games.
Does anyone know if a controller like this: SNES Retro USB Super Nintendo Controller would work?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0034ZOAO0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Those work, and i have read play station controllers work well, too.
I never owned an SNES myself so I ended up with these
Any that mention 2.4Ghz will come with a small dongle that will need to be connected to your Android TV device via USB.
Any that only mention bluetooth will not use a dongle.
Right now I'm considering these two, personally:
On criteria that they are purely bluetooth with no dongle required, are small, backlit, have touchpads. and only cost about 20 dollars.
https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Keyboard-Touchpad-Android-QQ-Tech/dp/B00BALK9CM/
https://www.amazon.com/iPazzPort-Bluetooth-Wireless-Raspberry-KP-810-21SBL/dp/B015J6TEN8/
I have no idea if either are any good.
I have this one http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AG0D61O but I don't like it very much. It's missing mouse controls.
I recently got this one http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BALK9CM and it works better than I thought it would. It's not great for typing a novel, but for simple controls and typing a short email it gets the job done. It is deceptively small (5715012.5mm).
Wolphilink interface is also what I use with my Android tablet. Some of the apps I use with this setup:
DroidPSK
DroidSSTV
DroidRTTY
AndFLMsg (download from Sourceforge - this is not in the Play Store)
WSPR Beacon (Tx only...good for testing propagation)
Robot36 (SSTV receive-only...good for when ISS does SSTV)
Rucksack Radio Tool (again, 3rd party - not in Play Store -good for SOTA)
Most of these are free, but not all...i don't mind paying for apps like these, though.
This isn't quite as convenient as using a Windows or Linux laptop to do digital modes, but for a go-bag and doing SOTA/RaDAR and camping it beats the snot out of carrying a laptop and a SignaLink. I use a small, handheld Bluetooth Keyboard-mouse...something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Keyboard-Touchpad-Android-QQ-Tech/dp/B00BALK9CM
If you want a demo on how this is used, check out the SurvivalTech Nord YouTube Channel. OH8STN, who also posts here occasionally, has really good videos on utilizing the Wolphilink...among other interfaces.
It's this guy: Seenda Mini Bluetooth Keyboard W Touchpad for Android OS Windows (QQ-Tech Version) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BALK9CM/
You would use a OTG dongle, plug in a wireless media keyboard, or use something like this and it SHOULD work smoothly. If you haven't rooted it, do so, and get a better performing ROM, as well as an app to enable a playstation control for gaming.
i use a mini bluetooth keyboard, think this one to be exact. They are on amazon lightning deals often, think i got it for $16. Works great for me. i know some people still prefer a remote, especially if they have kids etc its just easier. Can get a usb IR receiver or connect an ir receiver to the GPIO pins if you want a remote, or, if your tv/audio receiver is CEC capable, so is the RPi so that would work also (mine aren't)
Yes I actually use this tiny bluetooth keyboard/mouse combo that someone on here suggested. Heres the link: Seenda Mini Bluetooth Keyboard
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BALK9CM/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_7icOub1R3D2CW
&nbsp;
Options are limited on the Fire TV stick because it does not accept USB input;
&nbsp;
&nbsp;
No USB for the Stick have to use Bluetooth or app. For some reason I can't mouse click with the wukong remote app.
You'll need to add the settings APK available on XDA forums
QQ-Tech® Newest Mini Wireless bluetooth Keyboard is a nice small one
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BALK9CM/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_aZXHub1NHH7ZF
Also GameStop has the Nyko PlayPad pro and the smaller non pro version for tablets and smartphones at about $13 each if you can find in stock and reserve for pickup. No keyboard but can use as game controller and has switched mouse mode if paired via settings.apk. The Nyko specifically for the FireTV supposedly won't do this. Not a very good controller but works.
Edit: settings.apk
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2714494
http://m.gamestop.com/Browse/Search/PlayPad
https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Keyboard-Touchpad-Android-QQ-Tech/dp/B00BALK9CM
I use something like that.
Use openvpn for android thats what i use, you don't even need to sideload it it's compatible via google play. Just set it up and you're off to the races. This is also a great addition to the mi box's remote if you need a mouse and keyboard.
Yep, I got this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BALK9CM/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_QkLLwbARN3F37
Have 2 of these, never had a problem, every key lights up.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BALK9CM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This one works over bluetooth
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BALK9CM/
to piggyback: it works fine with a mouse. i use one of these to great succes.
http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BALK9CM?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00
Good call. I have my HTPC/Game box with a full size clickity-clack wired keyboard, and wired mouse, and watching movies and such can be slightly annoying with the wires. But only $20 annoying, so it would be worth getting something like this. What model did you get? I would be looking for smallest form factor with mouse control. I found this one, which I like aesthetically/functionally, and it's rechargable.
Redragon M801 Mammoth 16400 DPI Programmable Laser Gaming Mouse for PC, 9 Programmable Buttons, 5 User Profiles, Weight Tuning, Omron Switches, Black
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GU4F4OM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_sA4vxbC04PH98
I love this mous soooooo much. I love the notches too that is the main reason i got it. It comes in a few different colors.
I have this one: http://smile.amazon.com/Redragon-Mammoth-Programmable-PC-Profiles-Switches/dp/B00GU4F4OM/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1457765904&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=redragon
If you have a few more dollars, i suggest buying it.
It's not the cheapest, but I've been using this: 30 dollar red dragon and I'm super happy with it. The 3 side buttons work well for light attack animation cancelling, the secondary index button is easily accessible, leaving me just my ult and 1 skill (usually a buff) on my keyboard.
I personally have a Redragon Mammoth - $26 and I absolutely love it. I ended up getting another one for work as well.
If you need more buttons to program, you could get the Redragon Perdition - $37. I don't personally own it, but my friends that do also highly recommend it.
I have a "redragon" (whatever tf that even means) rgb mouse that I got for 27 USD. I have enormous hands and it fits perfectly. It's a 16000 dpi that goes up or down with the press of a button. Would recommend.
https://smile.amazon.com/Redragon-M801-Programmable-Profiles-Switches/dp/B00GU4F4OM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503865952&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=12000+dpi+redragon
There are a million other mice with the same wheel, and general design too. I swear there is one company in china making the same couple of mice with different variations for each. Just look at these two mice
http://www.amazon.com/HV-MS672-Ergonomic-Soothing-Colors-Buttons/dp/B00KKAQYXM/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1453590544&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=gaming+mouse
http://www.amazon.com/UtechSmart-Uranus-Precision-Gaming-Lithoclase/dp/B00USS6TLS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1453590574&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=utechsmart The "mars" mouse
These chinease mice are pretty much the same thing with different engravings, yet two different companies. Heres another example
http://www.amazon.com/Redragon-Mammoth-Programmable-PC-Profiles-Switches/dp/B00GU4F4OM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1453590861&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=red+dragon+gaming+mouse
http://www.amazon.com/THINKTANK-T90-Precision-Computer-Multi-Modes/dp/B017PA4OZY/ref=sr_1_27?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1453590770&amp;sr=8-27&amp;keywords=havit+gaming+mouse
Its litterely the same thing just different engravings and buttons
Well, The mouse was for my home office. I personally like ones that have forward/back buttons on the side and adjustable sensitivity, but that is my preference.
I ended up with this, but I also use it to game occasionally. this mouse is similar to what I have at work.
I got the Red Dragon Mammoth for $40. Apparently, its on sale right now. Anyways, it's not super fancy but its damn good for the price you pay. You can find more about the Revenant profession with the link.
This must be the height of ridiculousness, then.
My Friend uses this mouse and he is in love
This seems to be a fine Keyboard
Then the Roosewill is probably the best for you. $80, decent build quality.
I use a Rosewill RK-9000V2 mechanical keyboard. It's only $90, allows you to choose your preferred cherry keyswitch, is very solid, doesn't have fancy disco lights (the only lights are for num, caps, scroll, and windows key lock), has a windows key lock (disables windows key), and IMO is all around a very solid no frills standard mechanical keyboard.
Ok, you will for sure want MX Blues or MX Greens then. I will post some links to ones that I think you would be interested in.
Ducky One I have this board but in browns and I like it a lot.
Filco
CM Storm Quickfire this one has MX greens which are
clicky but need more force to be pressed.
^Wrong link. Click the green one.
Rosewill This one is more of a budget starter.
Corsair Strafe this is probably one of the more popular brands especially for gamers.
Corsair K70
The Rosewill RK900-V2 with MX Blues is on sale right now. It's got the "boring" look but it gets the job done :p
Best option at $100 would be the Ducky One ( no LED version ). Very well-built and feature-packed. Or, if you want backlight, look for the CM Masterkeys pro M.
busca un IBM model m usao por ahí de gratis
si no pa no gastar mucho --> http://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Mechanical-Keyboard-Switches-RK-9000V2/dp/B00S5E4KH2
The Rosewill RK-9000V2 is pretty good for the price.
Is rosewill any good? https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Mechanical-Keyboard-Switches-RK-9000V2/dp/B00S5E4KH2/ref=sr_1_34?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480522823&amp;sr=8-34&amp;keywords=mechanical+keyboard
Also might I add, I might replace keycaps sometime if possible.
Rosewill RK-9000V2 ain't a bad choice.
Rosewills are cheap but not pretty. Probably the best for your value. wasdkeyboards.com is kinda cool too.
The three switches you see recommend the most (and for good reason. Look up the other ones if you must) are brown, red, and blue
Blue is marketed towards typists. It is very loud and there is a snap or full on click when you press down a key. These will wake up people in the same room as you and I wouldn't suggest these without sound dampening o rings if you live with others.
Red are marketed towards gamers. The most comparable to a rubber dome, they just go straight down with no click. Very quiet.
Browns are an in between and my personal favourite. They're similar to blues with a lighter "bump" instead of a click. Decently loud.
Also, simple questions thread.
Edit- link
I know it's a bit over how much you said you'd like to spend, but the Rosewill RK-9000V2 is a nice, standard layout, cherry board. Red and Black switches are somewhat cheaper on this board and also quite.
I would look at the rose will RK-9000 http://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Mechanical-Keyboard-Switches-RK-9000V2/dp/B00S5E4LX0?th=1&amp;psc=1 cheap and is fairly professional looking
First timer here. Narrowed it down to two. Any thoughts?
http://www.amazon.com/CM-Storm-QuickFire-XT-Mechanical/dp/B00DKXXABK
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S5E4LX0/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=1M5NBBBKEIS1D&amp;coliid=I2A35Y4NY4RQVI&amp;psc=1
Looking to buy my first MKB, full sized, Brown (or Clear, but I see that they are rare/expensive), no more than $90, and it would be used 70% of the time for gaming. This is what I've been looking at, but I'm curious about peoples thoughts on it for general use and gaming. Also looking for other recommendations that would fit my requirements.
I need help making a purchase decision. I bought my first mechanical a few months ago. It was a $40-something off-brand with Outemu blue switches, and OH MY GOD was it a breath of fresh air compared to the mushy swamp keyboard I'd been struggling with since college. Clickety clackety never going backety.
Now I want to replace my work keyboard. I prefer something sedate and professional looking, and I really like having a number pad. I've pretty much settled on Cherry brown switches this time, but I'm tossing around a couple of different models in the sub-$100 category. The thoughts of /r/mechanicalkeyboards are welcome:
Thanks!
You may get Redragon or Rosewill
https://www.amazon.ca/Rosewill-Mechanical-Keyboard-RK-9000V2-BR/dp/B00S5E4LX0/ref=mp_s_a_1_26?adgrpid=57898022101&amp;hvadid=310059670066&amp;hvdev=m&amp;hvlocphy=9001077&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvpos=1t1&amp;hvqmt=e&amp;hvrand=8853527168305914972&amp;hvtargid=kwd-296614449107&amp;keywords=cherry%2Bmx%2Bsilent&amp;qid=1550438834&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-26&amp;tag=h0a61-20&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1
Then put O-rings on it. I don't know if you can get Silent Reds or their clones at that price. I wouldn't put O-rings because it took away the sounds.
So basically you want a full keyboard with proper mech switches under $80? Only option I can think of that isn't cheap knockoff switches or bad polling would be something like Roswill's mech line. Like $70, you can choose between red, blue, or brown cherry MX switches. Full sized KB, reasonable build quality, and comes with a PS/2 dongle so you can use system interrupt protocol for your KB instead of USB. Also comes with a nice braided USB cable you can swap out if you manage to damage the thing somehow.
Hello everyone,
I am looking for a 100% keyboard with no-click Cherry MX Red switches (or maybe Brown or Black or another "quiet" switch). It's for typing a lot. It needs to have larger keys and/or larger key spacing than a plain old Dell KB212-B keyboard.
Any ideas? How about the Rosewill RK-9000V2 BR?
Thanks in advance!
I am currently using Rosewill RK-9000V2s at home at at work, with brown switches and the O-ring kit. They're sturdy and heavy, without any flashy crap. Been using the one at work for 18 months now, no problems.
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Daedalus-Performance-Gaming-910-004380/dp/B00TKFD51M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483858630&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=logitech+303
also at same price $24.99 at amazon.com
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Daedalus-Performance-Gaming-910-004380/dp/B00TKFD51M
I've heard good things about this being lightweight and responsive for online FPS and other things, even if it only has two buttons
Here are my recommendations:
G303
G502
EC2-A
DeathAdder Chroma
They're all great mice with the best sensors out there, so you should make your choice based on shape and price. Especially the G303, great mouse but the shape takes getting used to. Best of luck
mechanical keyboards are definetely nicer to play on(clicky and easy to tell when you press a key), but are more expensive, a gaming mouse will make a difference if the sensor is better than your current one.
For 60$ I would say
The large mousepad helps a lot and is really nice to use, so you can play on a lower sensitivity which will help you aim in games.
if you do get the money later on, you could get a mechanical keyboard like this one which had brown switches (more quiet but still "clicky").
Apparently you can still find them used for ~$100, but they cost $325 to $400 new. That or amazon is acting wierd.
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Daedalus-Performance-Gaming-Mouse/dp/B00TKFD51M
I've seen G502s for $50 before, so I can say it does go on sale. Maybe less often than the others, but the G303 has the same sensor as the G502 and is often around that price range you mentioned, and has the same functionality (two side buttons etc).
Do note that the G502 has a lot of extra functions, like the free scroll wheel etc. Those are excessively useful in non-gaming scenarios. That being said, here it is for $60 USD at Best Buy: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/logitech-g502-proteus-spectrum-optical-gaming-mouse-black/4803300.p?skuId=4803300
I would find a good mouse you like, so you aren't using a touch pad. I highly recommend the new logitech mice that have their new sensor. I personally have never used a mouse with a better sensor. Any of these three mice are good. I recommend the logitech g pro if you don't know what preference in style you have for your mouse. It's pretty close to what you would be use to in standard mice.
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Shifting-Personalized-Programmable-Customizable/dp/B00IRHE892/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482645105&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=logitech+mice
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Daedalus-Performance-Gaming-910-004380/dp/B00TKFD51M/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482645105&amp;sr=8-11&amp;keywords=logitech+mice
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Gaming-Advanced-Sensor-Competitive/dp/B01JPOLLTK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482645118&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=logitech+mice+pro
Make sure you download steam for all your gaming needs. There are alternatives, but since you are newer to PC I highly recommend using steam as your main platform. Also they are having an awesome winter sale right now! Perfect time to pick up games at super cheap.
http://store.steampowered.com/
I highly recommend turning off "enhanced pointer precision" which is normally turned on by default on windows machines.
http://www.thewindowsclub.com/enhance-pointer-precision-windows
I would also ensure that your computer is using the "balanced" power save option.
http://www.howtogeek.com/240840/should-you-use-the-balanced-power-saver-or-high-performance-power-plan-on-windows/
I recommend getting good, preferably free, anti-virus. Everyone has their own preferences. I use Avast. Just avoid McAfee.
https://www.avast.com/en-us/index
Picking up a new browser, so you don't use internet explorer, is a good idea. I recommend google chrome because it has enough built in features where you don't need to be "in the know" to get what you need out of it.
https://www.google.com/chrome/browser/desktop/index.html?brand=CHBD&amp;gclid=CjwKEAiA1vjCBRDd-9q3w4OF6WUSJACWv_sVbfPzq9MQuEXf_fjyvJqASfE7B5R_9B7d6mLscUpprxoCj8Xw_wcB&amp;dclid=CN360ufXjtECFZFFAQodU78Etw
If you do pick up google chrome, you should pick up an add blocker for it as well. Blocks advertisements everywhere and stops you from having to watch advertisements at the beginning of youtube videos.
https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/adblock/gighmmpiobklfepjocnamgkkbiglidom?hl=en-US
And to wrap it up I'd download the battle.net launcher from blizzard. Blizzard has lots of very good games, like overwatch, hearthstone, wow, etc.
http://us.battle.net/en/app/
I personally use a program called f.lux which makes your monitor more friendly for your eyes at night. It makes it easier to fall asleep after being on your PC late at night. I highly recommend using this if you game at night.
https://justgetflux.com/
Now just find some games you want to play. Here are some of the most popular games on PC(based on players playing the game at the moment). That I would recommend. Everyone has their own preferences, and sorry if I'm explaining this like you know nothing. I'm not sure what information you are looking for exactly or your knowledge level.
Battle Net Games
Overwatch(Multiplayer PVP focus - fantastic FPS highly recommend)
Hearthstone(free to play card game - if you like trading card games play this!)
Steam Games
Skyrim(Single Player)
Witcher(Single Player)
Total War: WARHAMMER(Strategy Game)
Civilization 6(Strategy Game)
Terraria(2d Minecraft)
Paladins(PVP Free to play game)
Path Of Exile(Free to play Diablo2 like game)
Rust(Multiplayer Survival game)
Ark(Multiplayer dinosaur survival game)
Stardew Valley(Top down run your own farm RPG game, think Harvest Moon)
Dark Souls 1,2,3(Hardcore mostly singleplayer action RPG)
War Thunder(Free to play WW2 plane/tank PVP game, multiplayer)
Binding of Isaac: Rebirth(roguelike, top down like old zelda games - highly recommend this game)
Cities: Skylines(better version of Sim city)
Rainbow Six Siege( tactical FPS pvp, multiplayer)
Stand Alone Games That Don't Use A Launcher
Minecraft
League Of Legends
League Of Legends is one of the most played games in the world, competing against overwatch. It is called a MOBA, you've probably heard of it, and it's at least worth checking out if you have a friend to play with.
edit: Also finding a headset is very important, I always point to HyperX headsets if you need a microphone to talk to people. They are comfortable, sound good, and won't break the bank. If you don't need a mic just pick up a nice pair of sennheiser headphones. Also sorry for any grammar issues and just the wall of text. I just started typing and kept going. If you have any questions feel free to ask, hope you like your pc!
There are many great mice on the market in your price range, but there's a lot of information (and marketing) to sift through. I hope this post helps.
The most important part of a mouse is its sensor, which is responsible for maintaining 1:1 tracking at all speeds. As of today (2015-01-17) the best sensors are the 3366, 3310, and S3989; this limits your choices significantly but ensures that you will be getting the best mouse possible. Below are some mice and information (and my own, biased thoughts) about them. Ultimately, you will have to decide on a mouse based on your own set of priorities and needs / wants.
First, the Razer DeathAdder Chroma. This is a 5-button right-handed ergonomic mouse with a good sensor, acceptable weight, and RGB lighting. However, the top edges are oddly shaped, there are rubber side grips, you have to use the Razer Synapse software, the clicks are extremely light (causing some people to accidentally misclick), it has a braided cable (frays), and Razer is known for its extremely poor quality control. A good mouse, certainly, but there are major flaws which prevent me from recommending this mouse.
Logitech mice are known for their excellent build quality and high-quality sensors, but they are oddly-shaped. The Logitech mice to consider are the G303 and G502 (there's an updated G502 with RGB lighting, too). Both of these mice use the 3366 sensor, which is slightly better than the 3310. Based on shape alone, however, I can't recommend these mice. The G303 is very small, and the G502 is heavy and awkwardly-shaped and such that I would accidentally click the two front side buttons. They also come with a braided cable (frays) and require software for configuration.
Next is the SteelSeries Rival 300. RGB lighting, 5 buttons, light weight, etc., but has a rubber side grip and uses software. The new revision supposedly fixed the wear issues with the rubber side, so there's nothing really wrong with this mouse, but I think there are better options.
The FinalMouse 2016 is simply a 3310 sensor in a cheap OEM shell - I'd look elsewhere. They're coming out with the "Tournament Pro" and "Scream One" editions, but I wouldn't have high hopes for these.
The Ducky Secret is an interesting one, but largely untested and unreviewed. Ducky is known for their high-quality mechanical keyboards (I'm typing this on a Ducky Shine 3), but this is their first mouse. Good sensor, RGB lighting, separate left and right buttons, a shell made of PBT (higher-quality plastic), Omron switches in all buttons, even the thumb buttons (but not rated for as many clicks as other mice). Could be great, but it's a bit of a gamble, especially considering how many well-known and well-tested other mice already exist.
Finally, I'll cover the Zowie mice. All of these mice are driverless (no software needed; all adjustments are made with a button on the bottom of the mouse), which is certainly a plus when it comes to ease of use, but they lack the flashy features of many "flagship" mice, like custom RGB lighting. All Zowie Mice use the same sensor (3310) and have 5 buttons (left, right, middle up/down/click, and two thumb buttons). Each type comes in two or three different sizes, as indicated my the number after the model name. The ambidextrous mice (ZA for palm grip and FK for claw grip) have two buttons on each side, but only one set can be used at a time. The EC mice are right-handed ergonomic mice. None of them have rubber side grips or braided cables, and all of them are very light. However, they are known for using Huano switches rather than Omrons (so the left and right buttons are a little harder to click) but there is a new revision with Omron switches. Speaking of revisions, this seems to be the Zowie business model: small revisions every 6 months or so. Questionable, but they do offer excellent mice.
Those are all of the major players in the gaming mouse market, but there are others (Mionix, Roccat, CoolerMaster, Corsair) that you may want to look into. There's a lot more depth than I've covered here (grip type, sensor implementations, lift-off distance, etc.) but this should give you an overview of the most popular choices. Keep in mind that this is not in any way an objective set of reviews; these are all my opinions and may not apply to your tastes. Additionally, I've been pretty harsh and picky, but these really are all great mice.
After all of my research, I chose and now use a Zowie EC1-A (late 2015 version, before the BenQ re-brand and Omron update), and couldn't be happier.
logitech g303 daedalus apex. Small, with programmable buttons. and it's on sale everywhere right now.
If you want to use an actual stick, I'd say it's probably not worth getting the Alpha. Miniature sticks such as the Alpha and the Hori Fighting Stick Mini tend to be uncomfortable to use for extended periods of time, and are made using lower quality parts than full-size sticks. If you want a stick, the cheapest one I'd recommend would probably be the Qanba Carbon. I own one and it's a fairly nice stick for beginners. Technically it's not a PS4 controller, but Street Fighter 5 and a few other games support it in Legacy Mode. Check to see if the other fighting games you have support Legacy controllers. If they do, this is a great option for your price range. Otherwise, your next best bet is probably the Qanba Drone.
If you want a pad, the revamped fightpad pro is a good choice. I've never used one but the new model has gotten significantly better reviews than the problematic previous model. Personally I went with the Hori FC4, but the price has gone significantly up since that model isn't being manufactured anymore. The newer model is only $40 though, so that fits in your budget.
Qanba drone is $60 on Amazon right now-
https://www.amazon.com/Qanba-Drone-PlayStation-4/dp/B01I0GEDEY
It may not work, but at least you can try. I still recommend upgrading though, but I don't know how much sticks go for in EU. I'm fortunate in the US that they're widely available. If you're not looking to drop too much money, but need a quality stick, I would take a look at the qanba drone. Link: https://www.amazon.com/Joystick-PlayStation-Fighting-Officially-Licensed-4/dp/B01I0GEDEY
https://smile.amazon.com/Qanba-Joystick-PlayStation-Fighting-Officially/dp/B01I0GEDEY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478477279&amp;sr=8-2-spons&amp;keywords=qanba&amp;psc=1
This is a decent stick for your price range that works with ps3,ps4, pc. You can switch out the buttons and stick, if you want. I normally stick with madcatz, but my friend has a qanba and i had no issues when I tried it out.
well then theres the Venom arcade-stick. dunno about availability in US, but hes pretty popular in europe. a friend of mine has one and hes more than happy with it.
i'd probably save 50$ more though and go for a HRAP4 if i were you.
the qanba-sticks are popular, too
If you are just starting out for cheap you can get a hori fight stick mini for about $50.
https://www.amazon.com/HORI-Fighting-Stick-Mini-PlayStation-4/dp/B014KXMEW4
if you want a large one you really cant go wrong with a Qanba drone.
https://www.amazon.com/Qanba-Drone-PlayStation-4/dp/B01I0GEDEY/ref=sr_1_1?hvadid=174249048211&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9013192&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=4422332991940354643&hvtargid=aud-647006051489%3Akwd-208944826600&keywords=qanba+drone&qid=1554995563&s=gateway&sr=8-1
if its your first stick it may a take a few days to get used to, but i personally use the mini when i travel to a friends house and a larger stick at home.
Either a Qamba Drone or you search for a second-hand HORI HRAP for less than $100.
My bad, I was thinking of the Drone. It is definitely a solid choice for 80 bucks. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01I0GEDEY/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1496407833&amp;sr=8-4&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=qanba+q4&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=419H6M77PhL&amp;ref=plSrch
There is a Q4 for the 87.99, but I've never ordered from play-Asia so I don't know that it's a reputable site. http://www.play-asia.com/qanba-q4-light-up-real-arcade-fightingstick/13/709437?gclid=CIudp4qan9QCFdQ2gQodw8sBCA&amp;ref=froogle_us
You seem to know a decent amount about mechanical keyboards.
How would the MasterKeys Pro L compare: https://www.amazon.ca/MasterKeys-Mechanical-Keyboard-Intelligent-Switches/dp/B01ITE93OM/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1518733364&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=masterkeys+pro+l
I just purchased the non LED version for $100. Wondering if I should cancel, I don't really care for RGB or anything fancy, but if it's nearly the same price I wouldn't mind.
Alright, there is a few options that i would recommend
---
If you don't want a numpad this is a great option
Cooler master masterkeys S (PBT (Thicker keycaps))
If you want a numpad this is the version with one
Cooler master masterkeys pro L
If you want a non pbt version of the S
Cooler master masterkeys S
If you want a pbt version of the pro L
Cooler master masterkeys pro L (PBT(Thicker keycaps))
---
These are all cherry mx brown switches, I'm not sure what the difference is between the pro and non pro versions you might have to look that up, they have white leds and come in at your budget, enjoy
The Masterkeys Pro L is on sale for $135 right now. I have a Pro S (the tenkeyless version) and it works wonderfully. If you don't care about RGB there's a cheaper one with white LEDs as well.
People on this sub tend to not recommend Corsair and Logitech boards because of their nonstandard bottom row (it's harder to get custom keycap sets for them) as well as the lighting being tied to software (which sounds good in theory, but they're usually really buggy and overly complex). If you really particularly like their features then go for it; they're certainly not bad at all.
I'm in your position looking for a non-rgb, MX brown around the 100$ price range. I went for Cooler master Masterkeys Large. It has a function key so the mediakeys are still there. This will be my first mechanical keyboard so can't say much yet, as I will be getting it next week. But read a bunch of reviews and ended up with this one.
https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-MasterKeys-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B01ITE93OM/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1494354031&amp;sr=1-2-catcorr&amp;keywords=cooler+master+masterkeys+pro+brown
HyperX or Cooler Master MasterKeys Pro L- Cherry MX Brown @5.5K ?
Want the brown which is 500 more.
https://www.amazon.ca/MasterKeys-Mechanical-Keyboard-Intelligent-Switches/dp/B01ITE93OM/ref=sr_1_26?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1501869156&amp;sr=8-26&amp;keywords=white+mechanical+keyboard
How is this for the price?
If you want some good points about the CODE, pretty much everything aside from the keycaps are pretty quality to me haha. I just mentioned the thing I didn't like about it the most. I'm also not a fan of costar stabilizers, but only because it's a pain to replace keycaps versus cherry stabilizers.
The price tag on one is also something I'm not a fan of, considering if you were to get a https://www.amazon.com/MasterKeys-Mechanical-Keyboard-Intelligent-Switches/dp/B01ITE93OM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481873277&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=masterkeys%2Bpro%2Bl&amp;th=1, for example, you could save 50, and have arguably the same keyboard. With that 50$, you could get a decent keycap set, such as https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&amp;p=1578, which is ABS, but thicker than normal and also backlit compatible.
There's nothing wrong with abs keycaps, don't get me wrong, I have tons of GMK keycap sets, I just don't prefer most OEM keyboards having thin abs.
For CM this or this if you need a dedicated arrow cluster.
Ducky is a bit more expensive, I'd recommend a Ducky One. Go here for an easy listing of options.
Hope this helps!
Did you ever type on a mechanical keyboard? The first time I tried one I was immediately faster while typing and it felt amazing.
Programmability and therefore macros seems to be standard most of the time, even my 25€ board could program every single key to my liking.
The Vortex Race 3 I bought supports macros of up to 32 keystrokes. The reason I bought a 75% keyboard over an even smaller one is so I can use the F-Row for gaming macros.
I can't imagine the left row of dedicated macro keys on the horde to be very comfortable to reach.
I don't want to put you off of your decision, but I'd highly encourage you to check out the other options you have with 100€. If you still find the horde to fit your needs the best, than it is still a great decision for you.
Edit:
Check out the Cooler Master Masterkeys Pro L
Or the hyper X fury alloy
Both are decent full size gaming keyboards and if you've got the spare money they are also available as RGB.
Thrustmaster T300 RS GT Racing Wheel - PlayStation 4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1L2NRL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TnpjDbKBWETSD
Click the link below “new and used from $200” — top link is the one being sold by amazon.
It’s out of stock now, but you can order it/buy it from Best Buy and get a price match. That’s what I did and it’s supposed to be delivered on Friday!
This is a good deal. PC and PS4. No shifter, but for the price, it’s much better than a g920. Thrustmaster T300 RS GT Racing Wheel - PlayStation 4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1L2NRL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QOPkDbS62HW63
$100 is only going to get you something used (like a t150 or g29) or something like the T80 that does not have force feedback, and force feedback is probably the biggest reason to use a wheel, so I personally would not recommend going that route.
The T300RS GT is on sale for $200 today for prime day, which is a really good deal for that level of kit. Cheaper than the T150 is usually, and it is a much higher quality wheel (I've had both.) If you've got the scratch right now, that is likely your best bet. Outside of prime day, the non-GT version, which only has two pedals, is typically around 230-250.
Also, browse a bit on /r/simracing, there are a lot of advice questions like this, as well as a very good buying guide that will help you get a good grasp on the options.
As a personal aside, spend a little more up front if you have any inkling this will be a hobby of yours. The t300 made a world of difference once I upgraded after hundreds of hours on the T150, and if you'll be spending a lot of time with it might as well get treat yourself up front.
are you in the US? Amazon just dropped the price of the T300 to 200 with the 3 pedal set, insane price for what you get.
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T300-RS-Racing-Wheel-PlayStation/dp/B01M1L2NRL
There already is a dedicated wheel... It's Thrustmaster T300 RS GT.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Thrustmaster-T300-Racing-Wheel-PlayStation/dp/B01M1L2NRL
This is a steal for the T300.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1L2NRL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pyHUCb861Q7KQ
And the G29 is at 200 right now.
And you gotta find a stand.
I assume instead of GTE you mean the T300 RS GT Edition.
This is the T300 RS GTE, and $400 is not a good price for it.
The difference is the GT Edition has better pedals than the GTE.
re: The T150. There is the Pro version that has the 3 pedal set, but it's currently unavailable on Amazon.
You can also get a separate 3 pedal set like the T3PA, or some refurbished G27 Pedals and the Leo Bodnar Adapter.
For a budget first-time wheel, maybe look second-hand? The G29 is mechanically exactly the same as the G27, and the G27 can normally be picked up for c. $200 or less second-hand.
Also bear in mind, the G29 does not come with a shifter, but the G27 does. If you want a shifter for the G29 you'll need to spend probably a minimum of c. $60 for the Logitech Shifter. However, the Logitech Shifter is pretty shit, so you might be better off getting at least the TH8A.
What's he difference between the G29, T150 and T300?
If you're comparing all the 3 pedal set versions, then the pedals are all virtually equal.
The difference is mainly FFB.
The G29 FFB is fine, but has a noticable deadzone at the top and can sometime feel a little bit notchy.
The T300 FFB is smoother, faster, stronger and quieter than the G29 and has virtually no deadzone. It's significantly better, but maybe not $150 better (depends on what it's worth to you).
I've been told the T150 FFB is somewhat between the G29 and T300, but I've not tried it myself.
> Thrustmaster T300 RS wheel
That sounds great - I like Thrustmaster's quality. I've been using their A10 HOTAS for flight sim for a while now.
Does this combo seem like the right wheel + pedals even though it says it's Gran Turismo edition for PS4?
not OP but I just got the Thrustmaster T300 RS GT for 200 + tax on amazon. Its list price is 400 but it keeps dipping to 200. You might get lucky if you keep an eye on it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M1L2NRL/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I haven't tried the T300, but the G920 was nice.
For the prices, (according to CamelCamelCamel, a price tracker for Amazon) the T300 is at a historical low, while the G920 was cheaper just a few weeks ago (even with the Prime discount).
https://camelcamelcamel.com/Logitech-Dual-Motor-Feedback-Driving-Responsive/product/B00Z0UWV98?context=search
&#x200B;
https://camelcamelcamel.com/Thrustmaster-T300-RS-Racing-Wheel-PlayStation/product/B01M1L2NRL?context=search
Try for a T300 RS GT IMHO. Will give you the option to expand into H-shifter driving down the road easily by buying a TH8A shifter.
According to CamelCamelCamel, it fell as low as $240 briefly on Amazon last December but anything $300 and under is a pretty good deal basically, and I think it's hit $270 repeatedly.
You should be able to get the T300RS GT for cheaper than $400.
I got the Ferrari version for less than the $400 a week ago on Newegg (it was down to 389 before any coupons or anything).
You can always use the Camelizer to check it's historical prices on Amazon.
https://camelcamelcamel.com/Thrustmaster-T300-RS-Racing-Wheel-PlayStation/product/B01M1L2NRL?active=price_new&amp;context=home_recent
A copy of what i sent to one user, but my recommendation still stands:
If you end up buying a joystick one day, I strongly urge you to look for Thrustmaster 16000, or for something with the equivalent of Thrustmaster's HALL effect. It really IS really-really nice. Because with whatever game you end up playing, you may end up using only a few buttons, but the joystick part of it will always be there, so THAT'S what you want to be top notch.
And I may be repeating myself, but that HALL effect is what they use in the pretty much highest end Warthog Joysticks and HOTAS, ones that go for $300+, so even though the buttons and the build itself of the 16000 is the same as of the other joysticks in the 30-50$, the action part of its is way above it's level.
Here's an Amazon link to the pre-order of the new version of the joystick by itself:
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-VG-T16000M-FCS-Joystick-Black/dp/B01MQEDEEW/ref=sr_1_10?s=videogames&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1479623136&amp;sr=1-10&amp;keywords=thrustmaster+joystick
They're 59.99 on Amazon.
Thrustmaster T16000M FCS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQEDEEW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TTJsDbV6M9SFR
Theres a Kit that gives you the stick and throttle, that's $129.99.
Thrustmaster VG T16000M FCS Joystick, Black - PC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQEDEEW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_19UeAbXQZDW1B
Some "higher end" links for you:
Don't use this for E:D Warthog that is my 2c worth. Its maybe looks all metal but has some plastic internals and really is not for space flight sims. Allot of people bitch about the nipple on the throttle. So just my opinion that you should not look at it.
On the lower end:
Happy stick hunting, fly safe CMDR o7!
I'd go with the [T16000M FCS](Thrustmaster T16000M FCS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQEDEEW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_oLPvCbGXEZ1HX) for $40 ATM
It's got the same sensors as the Thrustmaster Warthog stick, and the magnetic sensors feel better to me in general. As others have mentioned, this game has a ton of keybinds so as much as I like dedicated throttles, I find myself getting annoyed going back and forth from it to the keyboard.
That said if you don't think you'll mind switching back and forth, I'd recommend the [hotas combo that includes this stick](Thrustmaster T16000M FCS HOTAS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KCHPRXA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5SPvCbKVNA2QA).
Thrustmaster T.16000M FCS is the only one I'm pretty sure.
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T-16000M-FCS-HOTAS-Controller/dp/B01KCHPRXA/
EDIT: Here's it with just the stick, because the throttle doesn't look like it'd be too useful with your right hand
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T16000M-FCS-Joystick-Black/dp/B01MQEDEEW/
Flying with dual joysticks (and pedals) feels awesome! I got a T16000m FCS plus a T16000m FCS Flight Pack and only use the sticks and the pedal right now
I am gonna configure my setup in a way that I can switch from hosas to hotas when I am not in combat to be able to fly around more relaxed. It should be pretty easy to set up if I play around with the Target software some more.
The first time setting up dual joysticks was pretty tedious. I used TheNOOBIFIER1337's Playlist and the several reddit posts as an inspiration and finally decided to set them up more or less like in this video
To keep my desk uncluttered and my KB/M close I made a setup like this one!. Here are some more Images.
Oh hey, I own that joystick! It's old and has huge problems with y-axis, but it was a trusty joystick.
Anyway, depending on how well you can touch type, you could even use KB/M.
I run dual stick - the attack 3 in left hand for thrusters, and in my right a t16000m, works great. (though my t16000m is green/grey, older version, the new one looks like it would be easier to use in VR, and is ED colored). You could also try buying the throttle and using your old joystick
green one
orange one
Orange one is newer, but is the same basic stick. Has some bumps and insets on the buttons on the base of the stick so you don't have to look down to confirm where your fingers are. They also added some texture to the buttons on the top of the stick for better grip there.
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-VG-T16000M-FCS-Joystick-Black/dp/B01MQEDEEW/ref=pd_sim_147_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=2R4M0N4CN75NMYSD7ST8
dot has better quality, i think the dot is actually a newer version of the dash one.
Here are links:
T-16000M
T.16000M
T.16000M With Throttle Included
CH FighterStick
This one!
I really dig it, it clicks really nicely and fits my stupidly small hand.
Did you ever look at the Logitech G303 Daedalus? It's one of the smallest, lightest fingertip mice I found with an exceptional optical sensor (PMW3366), which makes it really great for gaming.
$188 on Amazon in the states. https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Force-Feedback-Racing-PlayStation-4/dp/B014US02ZA
I picked up the T150 thrustmaster force feedback wheel for $160. Not quite as good as the G29 but gets the job done at almost half the price.
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Force-Feedback-Racing-PlayStation-4/dp/B014US02ZA
Thrustmaster T150 FFB Wheel comes with a set of cheap pedals. You can sometimes find it on sale for under $200. It is a PS4 wheel, that is also compatible with PC. https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Force-Feedback-Racing-PlayStation-4/dp/B014US02ZA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1518146633&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=t150&amp;th=1
They also make the model TMX that is for XBOX and PC. also $200 https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Force-Feedback-racing-wheel-WINDOWS/dp/B01CI97DNM/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1518146633&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=t150
The thrustmaster T150RS is a good starter wheel, and it's $179 on Amazon. I have owned it for 3-4 years and have yet to have a problem. https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Racing-PlayStation4-PlayStation3-playstation-2/dp/B014US02ZA
Project Cars is a good game to show off VR, I was actually playing around with it last night.
http://store.steampowered.com/app/234630/
You might be able to find it cheaper via other sites.
As for the wheel I would recommend at least a Thrustmaster T150. The T300 is way better but also considerably more expensive. This is a solid wheel that is at least somewhat affordable.
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Force-Feedback-Racing-PlayStation-4/dp/B014US02ZA/ref=sr_1_1?s=videogames&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1473349087&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=thrustmaster+t150
Cheapest one with Force Feedback is around $200.
You can get this one or this one.
Both work for PC.
> ... having a structure in my living room that looks like half a go kart is contrary to the freedom that VR offers
That's not the purpose of VR though: The purpose of VR is to simulate an experience as accurately as possible. So, for example:
So the "ideal" room for VR depends entirely on the type of game you're playing it. Heck, if you were playing a VR game that simulated swimming, then a room with a swimming pool would be ideal.
Anyway, the cheapest possible PS4 wheel you can get that is worth owning is the Thrustmaster T150:
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Force-Feedback-Racing-Wheel-PlayStation/dp/B014US02ZA/
First thing first. Why would you want to spend a fortune on a shifter instead of getting better pedals or the wheel?
I'd rather suggest get G27 or even G29 or G920 for as low as you can get, in this case and buy a better pedal set like Fanatec CSL Elite rather than the shifter that costs the same. IMHO, it's pointless to spend a fortune on a shifter in this case when you can get far more important things like pedals.
Being in your situation I would do the following:
buy Thrustmaster T150 on Amazon
buy Fanatec CSL Elite pedals
P.S. don't forget that shipping costs and import tax applies when you order Fanatec in Canada. I bought the whole set (Fanatec CSW v2.5, Formula Black rim, ClubSport v3 pedals, Brake performance kit) and had to pay a about $200 for shipping and about the same for the import tax.
I ordered this Thrustmaster T.Flight Hotas 4 Flight Stick
and this Thrustmaster VG T150.
I like that they'll be compatible with both Vive and Oculus and, since I have a PS4 and plan on getting PSVR, they should be compatible with the PS4 too. Very rare to find hardware compatibility across the board like that.
This one is good for $200.
http://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Force-Feedback-Racing-PlayStation-4/dp/B014US02ZA
A review from Inside Sim Racing: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MJoZyCWUhDs
edit: I think I linked the wrong wheel, fixed. So that pricezombie thing is for another wheel.
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Racing-PlayStation4-PlayStation3-playstation-2/dp/B014US02ZA/ref=pd_cart_vw_crc_1_2/143-0195468-4173650?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B014US02ZA&pd_rd_r=ede26c3a-ec21-4d81-a5b2-d21b4e3421e0&pd_rd_w=Kfi3v&pd_rd_wg=40FWE&pf_rd_p=aa9f3def-b8ac-4b15-aa4b-c6a8313c2f5e&pf_rd_r=00P29C9MKR8QTGRGVX1N&psc=1&refRID=00P29C9MKR8QTGRGVX1N
here is the amazon link, its new. Also i fell like the pedals on the logitech would be better but if you say so.
I went with the Playseat Challenge and the Thrustmaster T150.
They're working out great for me so far.
Well, barely: https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Dual-motor-Feedback-Responsive-PlayStation/dp/B00Z0UWWYC/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1527736261&amp;sr=8-5&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=thrustmaster+t150&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41HFwIn650L&amp;ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Force-Feedback-Racing-PlayStation-4/dp/B014US02ZA/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1527736261&amp;sr=8-4&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=thrustmaster+t150&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=517SecDrovL&amp;ref=plSrch
I know that the G29 is a good wheel, but I don't know about the Thrustmaster T150, but it would fit your budget.
I just grabbed mine a few days ago for this reason. I made a post about a good deal on amazon for a Thrustmaster T150. It's still going on if you're interested.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B014US02ZA/ref=dp_olp_all_mbc?ie=UTF8&amp;condition=all
Keep in mind its a third party seller with no reviews, but it's covered my Amazons A to Z guarantee. It's the seller that has it listed for $130
The wheel stand itself is like $120. The wheel and pedals have a huge range based on what you get. You might get something ok on eBay for like $125-175 but if you want a new wheel that's pretty cheap then this one is good for $200. There are wheels under that cost by they just aren't good enough in my opinion. Above that price there are wheels of all sorts of costs up to many thousands of dollars.
This is the one I eventually settled on:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014US02ZA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
200 bucks for a decent-ish FFB wheel. Outside of finding a crazy windfall deal, this was the best price I could find without compromising too much quality and including FFB. I've been using it on Dirt Rally and I think its great for its price.
I know it's not the answer you were looking for, but I personally wouldn't recommend a wheel without force feedback. You're really driving sort of "blind" without it.
Cheapest alternative I know of is the Thrustmaster T150.
You could also go for the Thrustmaster T300 with the Alcantara wheel and T3PA pedals and the TH8A shifter for less money than the bundle with a better wheel.
I was about to write a lengthy text, until I realized that all i was saying has already been discussed :-)
I would love to recommend you the Thrustmaster VG T300 Ferrari Alcantara Edition , but the Logitech's QC has been really bad, and I don't know if they have improved in the last two years or not, so I can't really recommend them with a straight face...
The G29 is basically a slightly updated G27 minus the H-shifter (which you can buy separately if needs be). Some people are angry because of the omitment of the shifter, therefore the mixed reviews, otherwise it's a great set.
If you get more serious about sim-racing, and want to get better lap-times you can mod the G27 brake pedal with a loadcell...either totally diy (around 100 dollar) or with a kit (130 dollar).
It all depends on your budget obviously, but the G29 is definitively a very good set with the ability to mod the hell out of the brake pedal (if you ever feel the need to do so).
If you have more questions I am sure the guys and gals at /r/simracing are glad to help you (especially as the majority of them has more experience than I have...I'm still only entry-level enthusiast hehe).
:-)
The issue with the wheel is that you will have to spend a lot of money to do much better than the g29. I do think the t300 is an upgrade, especially the Alcantara edition but it's only a slight upgrade, definitely not worth the price of the upgrade. The pedals it comes with are a slight upgrade as well, again, I wouldn't pay that price unless your kit breaks.
Loadcell pedals on the other hand are kind of a no-brainer. CSL elites w/ the load cell will last you a very long time. Contrary to some of the posters here I would suggest getting the loadcell brake pedal right away. Learning to brake on a load cell is totally different (much much better) and you will have to relearn once you get it so there is no point delaying in my opinion.
I would get those then look into a bottom tier DD like the SW7C that goes for $550 + shipping in the future.
You also need a drill and a bunch of different size M6s to attach everything to the Challenge.
Oh, and I put a bunch of foam behind my pedals.
Holy wow thank you for the in depth response. Just really started getting into true sim racing and the whole community has been awesome so far.
I've been using a crap wheel/controller so I'm basically looking at my first true set up. That means Logitech and others are out because I want to be in an ecosystem I can upgrade and grow over time. That seems to mean Fanatec or Thristmaster right now.
With that in mind , I'm comparing integrated products, base wheel and pedals together. The best prices I've found on new products so far have been through Fanatec direct and Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Ferrari-Alcantara-Racing-playstation-4/dp/B015KJ0SES
https://www.fanatec.com/us-en/bundle/product;bundle_id;153
They both have awesome upsides with huge upgrades I can make over time, which is really the most important thing to me right now. If I wind up living and breathing sim racing, I'll eventually want to go direct drive, but I don't have any plans to do so as of yet.
Plus, in all honesty, if I don't stick with sim racing for the very long term (which I think is unlikely, but always a possibility), the Elite and T300 both seem to retain their value pretty well, definitely better than the current crop of Logitech and other brands.
Thoughts on the above would be awesome! Thanks again.
This thread is now moot. TS300 and TS300 Alcantara went on sale on Amazon for $250/$300 and I'll be returning the G29 based on the opinions here and the research I've done elsewhere. Thanks everyone for your input!
https://smile.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T300RS-Officially-Licensed-Feedback-Racing/dp/B015KJ0SES/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480322723&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=t300rs&amp;th=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015KJ0SES/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_jCcpyb99GXT5V
today only adn hands down the best you are goign to get at that price range
Yeah, the shifter is a sequential shifter only and there is no clutch pedal. The G27 included an H shifter and a clutch pedal, and the pedals themselves were of much higher quality than the DFGT pedals and it all would sell as low as $200 new when it was still being made, hence why I would typically recommend that as the starting point. With how Logitech decided to price its successor without actually improving anything, I just can't recommend buying Logitech wheels anymore.
The Thrustmaster TMX would be the Thrustmaster equivalent of the DFGT and the T300 is what I would consider to be competing with the G27/G29, but the Thrustmaster wheel is much higher quality for the price you're paying.
Difference would be wheel rim, and possibly the included pedals. If they're giving you the T300 Ferrari Integral Racing Wheel Alcantara Edition for less then the default package, do it now!
I can recommend my setup:
Thrustmaster T300 Ferrari Alcantara Integral Edition
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B015KJ0SES/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487172453&amp;sr=8-1-fkmr0&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=thrustmaster+t+300
Get a extra shifter like the TH8A
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005L0Z2BQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487172565&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=thrustmaster&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41AEMeEQwUL&amp;ref=plSrch
SimRig GT Omega Pro RS9
http://usa.gtomegaracing.com/racing-simulator-cockpits/pro-racing-simulator-cockpit/gt-omega-pro-racing-simulator-basic-rs9-seat-canada
Total cost: 1070$
Of course you could get even better options on the market. But IMO it is the best compromise between cost, reliability and quality.
I have this T300 to offer. Shoot me a PM if you are interested. I live in the US though.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B015KJ0SES/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1497709973&amp;sr=8-5&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=t300+rs&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41P9utdH5SL&amp;ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/Team-Wolf-Swappable-Mechanical-Keyboard-Blue/dp/B01AFBJQA8 you could get something like this and try the reds and then if you need the clears you get SMD led clears from here: https://m.newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=9SIA7AR5662611 then you don't need to solder to switch if needed.
Don't go buying that too fast, the Outemu hot swap system actually only works with Outemu and BSUN switches. They have thinner pins on the switches, and other brands won't fit into them.
You'll need a TeamWolf Zhuque, or a Glorious Modular Mechanical, if you want to use any MX switch.
It's easier to buy plate mount (3 pin) switches, but PCB mount switches just have 2 extra little pins on the bottom that you can cut off if you can't get your preferred switches as plate mount.
From the looks of it you might not be able too; cherry switches don't have smd led cutouts so the switch isn't going to sit properly. You can probably try gateron switches with smd cutouts, they usually have a white bottom and clear top. I looked up pictures of the bottom of the switch after I looked at the pbc and the pins looks smaller that regular switches so that might be a problem you run into.
https://static1.caseking.de/media/image/thumbnail/gata-753_gata_753_2g_800x800.jpg
The keyboard looks like the teamwolf one with the same concept of removable switches.
Amazon:
Team Wolf [CIY] [ Swappable Switch ] [ Customize Switches ] Mechanical Keyboard, Mix Color Led Backlit, 7 Light Modes 87 Keys Wired Gaming or Office Keyboard--Blue Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AFBJQA8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_x1prxbEJN693N
Massdrop:
https://www.massdrop.com/buy/team-wolf-swappable-switch-mechanical-keyboard
It was sold on massdrop a few months ago and when it dropped they gave you the option to include smd gateron switches. For the reason that the cherry switches won't sit flush with the plate and might cause problems.
Hope this was helpful this was all speculation from looking at the Amazon link you provided so don't take my word on it.
Clears won't make a lick of difference for a macaw and a cockatoo... They'll just rip the stem clean off. I can't think of a single keyboard that they wouldn't be able to rip to shreds in a moment.
In this case, it might be better to go for something like the Team Wolf Swappable Switch board. Would save the annoyance or desoldering broken switches...
You could try picking up a cheap hotswap keyboard like this.
You will need to pick up some rubber feet because it only has 2 on the front so the back of the keyboard can slide out. With a hotswap board you can test out lots of different types of switches and when you have a bunch of them you can even pick up this or this to open them up and mix and match switch stems, springs and housings to create your own custom switches.
I have wrist tendinitis but do not really suffer from joint pain (yet). If you have joint pain, I think you need to identify what precisely causes the onset of pain and either buy or build a switch that discourages it. If I had to guess, I would think that the impact of bottoming out the keycap is rattling your joints and triggering the onset of pain, so you could start with switches like Halos, where the springs get stiffer the further you depress the key. This discourages bottoming out but I personally don't like them because the stiff springs make them fatiguing for me to type on. Over long periods of typing my wrist kind of clenches up and I get wrist pain. My preference is towards very light spring weights. I do bottom out but I am a very light handed typist so I don't feel my joints rattling (yet).
Another thing about living with chronic pain is adapting your typing technique to your keyboard as well as adapting your keyboard to your hands. So I try to avoid doing things with my wrist that aggravate my tendinitis - gripping, twisting, splaying and clenching can trigger the onset of pain within minutes and it can take up to a week to recover. I've lived with tendinitis for years so my body is pretty good at warning me when to stop or do something different. If you have lived with chronic joint pain for a while, I assume you have learned to listen to when your body is telling you to stop.
For joint pain, I think you want to avoid the impact of the keycap slamming into the switch plate. Mechanical key switches are designed to have a long travel distance. Cherry MX switches for example have 4mm of travel and they actuate at 2mm. So you only have to press them down to 2mm for a keystroke to register and the remaining key travel is a cushion to soften or completely avoid the bottom out.
You could try a tactile switch with a light spring weight such as MX Brown. If you need more of a tactile bump there are many tactile clone switches that give you more actuation feedback. Adjust your typing technique so you type only with as much force as necessary to actuate and not to bottom out. You can mix and match springs if you need more of a cushion. If heavier spring weights are fatiguing then don't worry, you have other options.
You can consider switches where the actuation point is higher up so the keystroke registers sooner and there is more key travel distance before the cap hits the switch plate. For example, Kailh Copper, which actuates at 1.1mm with 2.5mm of travel after the actuation point.
You may end up spending a lot of money on switches but if they don't work out for you personally, you can sell them on mechmarket and recoup most of your money.
That's what I figured. I didn't think that needing a keyboard that requires switches to be desoldered to remove them needed to be said as that's 99% of keyboards :P
But yea, there are cheaper options like TeamWolf Zhuque or the E-Element Z-88. There's also the K-Type on Massdrop, but that's above your budget. PC Gaming Race, who makes the GMMK, is working on a TKL version, though I'm not sure when that will be available.
One thing to note is that in a Massdrop Discussion for another E-Element keyboard, people are saying that it isn't compatible with other Cherry MX/clone switches. I don't know if this is the case with the Z-88 I linked above as well, but I'd be wary of that.
Rantopad MXX is what I recommend for a lot of people. This one uses Gateron blues which a lot of people here like, some people moreso than Cherry brand. Or if you want hotswappable switches to add Cherry switches down the road, then the Zhuque is a good choice
If you want a good inexpensive intro board with metal case, I really like my Teamwolf Zhuque TKL. It comes with decent Outemu switches but they're hot-swappable so you can throw in a huge variety of switches without soldering. (I put Zealios in mine and absolutely love it.)
Zhuque/TeamWolf TKL. I use this one as a 'switch tester'.
Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/Team-Wolf-Swappable-Mechanical-Keyboard-Blue/dp/B01AFBJQA8
This keyboard is the same price as ordering Hotlites for a keyboard. And it comes with a hotswappable ability. Buy it, try everything you want! :)
https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-GATERON-Magicforce-Qisan/dp/B01E57PXKA
Yeah, that seems to be the general consensus.
Amazon carries Magicforces with Gateron Red and Browns.
Brown
Red
Yeah if you want really solid keyboard you have to pay more money, but that doesn't mean cheaper keyboards can't be still pretty good. I'm not the guy you responded to above btw. If you are a keyboard enthusiast then you would care about the small details, but if you're just and average person then they cheap boards are good enough. I would recommend Redragon though though. My K552 with blues was pretty crappy and the keys weren't very solid, but that's just my opinion. I would recommend the DREVO Gramr which I am typing this on right now or if you want to go smaller then I would recommend the Magicforce 68 with Gateron reds. The general consensus that I have noticed on r/MechanicalKeyboards is that Cherry is the best, followed by Gateron and then Outemu and the rest of the clones.
I noticed there are some already on special. With the nicer switches.
Gateron Red$55.50
Kailh Black$52.55
Cherry Red$66.38
Cherry Brown$69.99
The cheapest mech I'd recommend is the magicforce 68 with gateron switches, costing 63$ before tax. I've not personally used one, but I've used gateron switches and they are (IMO) as good as the most common switch brand (cherry MX).
There are cheaper magicforce 68s with lower quality switches that go as cheap as 30$, but I've not tried any of those.
Edit - I just realized the other person was talking about custom mechs. This is a pre-made mech, not a custom.
I would do Gateron switches instead of MX
Gateron Red Switch (LED Backlit) : https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-GATERON-Magicforce-Qisan/dp/B01E57PXKA
Gateron Blue Switch (LED Backlit) : https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-GATERON-Magicforce-Qisan/dp/B01J708CCG/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498968120&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=gateron+blue
Gateron Red Switch (RGB): https://www.banggood.com/APP-Control-Anne-PRO-Blue-Red-Switch-RGB-Bluetooth-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard-p-1064055.html
All those keyboards are really good, and they are all backlit
I suggest you buy a magicforce keyboard. You can get brown switches for 40$: Amazon Link. Or red switches for 63$: Amazon Link. Another red switch 39$: Amazon Link.
With the Magicforce 68, I noticed that the "Escape" key is on the same location as the Tilde ~ key. I assume that means each time I want to hit "Escape", I have to hit Fn+~ to get the Escape command, is that correct?
I know everyone recommends the Magicforce 68 as a budget Mech, but as I game a lot and sometimes have a lot of windows open in general, the necessity of the Escape Key being a one-button switch may be a dealbreaker for me...
Also--is there any consensus on the Drevo Gramr 84? From what I read and searched, it's a very solid board for it's price of just $40. I believe they're Outemus, and I'm planning to get a Brown Switch Keyboard. Are there any other potential Brown keyboards (on Amazon only, US) that I should consider around that price range? Can be TK or TKL.
i hope and extra fiver doesn't break the bank but this has Kalih Browns which are a good knock of cherry switch.
https://www.amazon.com/DREVO-84-Key-Tenkeyless-Mechanical/dp/B01H6DHITE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1494265648&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=drevo+gramr
You'd be surprised how similar the switch quality is. Apparently, this has to do with the Cherry patent expiring and others can now produce the same type of switches. I haven't confirmed this, I've only read it from a handful of other sources. Anyway, I bet if you looked at a few reviews, you might even change your mind.
Do yourself a favor and YouTube these models:
Ajazz AK33
Drevo Gramr
Qisan
So this past Saturday night I was browsing some reddit. I happened to stumble across this photo, which awoke a desire in me to own a mechanical keyboard. Until now I thought mechanical keyboards were just a gamer thing and the only style they came in was black keyboards with RGB flashing all over the place. But seeing that picture made me realize that there is a huge variety of ways you can aesthetically customize a board. So the past few days I've spent a lot of my spare time doing research and trying to decide what I ultimate want in my "dream" mechanical keyboard. I've ordered a cheaper mechanical keyboard off Amazon for now until I've settled on what I want.
Sorry for the story, I just thought it was worth mentioning and giving you my very brief history and knowledge of mechanical keyboards (or lack thereof). Anyway, I have two questions:
I have and like my Logitech G410 which fits all of your criteria. From logitech you will pay more than your budget but you can get it for cheaper via 3rd party. Its $70 right now on amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Spectrum-Tenkeyless-Mechanical-920-007731/dp/B01645FHEI
I also really like and actually use my Drevo TKL more tho which is not RGB: https://www.amazon.com/DREVO-84-Key-Tenkeyless-Mechanical/dp/B01H6DHITE/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1506356645&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=drevo But one of the main reasons I really like this keyboard isthat the F-keys are directly in line with the number keys.
Drevo also has a RGB option but it doesnt have the inline F-keys: https://www.amazon.com/Element-Water-Proof-Mechanical-Keyboard-Anti-Ghost/dp/B01FXF7HFC/ref=sr_1_15?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1506356645&amp;sr=1-15&amp;keywords=drevo
Overall I use my drevo for the very specific reason of the in-line f-keys and its a feature I really value. However if this isnt important I would recomend the G410. But any of these listed keyboards wont steer you wrong.
Cheers!
I have the Drevo 84 Key with brown switches and absolutely love it.
Also tried/have the Magic Force 68 key with browns and quickly realized I rely on the function keys too much in photo editing and gaming. But for just typing I prefer typing on it to typing on the Drevo.
But the drevo also has a number pad which is really useful for data entry from lab work. The media control shortcuts are also in a more logical/traditional layout.
Drevo is more functional. Magic force better for pure typing.
Some older side by side photos
Perhaps https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/rv7/Drevo-84-Key-Backlit-Tenkeyless-Mechanical-Keyboard/B01H6DHITE/ ?
Magicforce is also a good option.
https://www.amazon.com/Qisan-Promotion-Mechanical-Backlight-Magicforce/dp/B01HHTFSIK/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1524094532&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=magicforce+full+size
This has Gateron browns, which are good Cherry clones and won't break the bank.
I personally like gateron brown vs cherry brown for brown switches so check out something like this
https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-Backlight-Magicforce-Qisan/dp/B01HHTFSIK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510760374&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=gateron+brown+keyboard
My understand is that you can also get the gmmk keyboard for around 100 prebuilt with gateron brown switches. The value there is that for a little extra money you get a keyboard that can swap switches which could be useful if you don't like browns or a switch dies on you. While it has a dumb name it looks pretty sleek and the rgb can be fully turned off if you don't like it in a office setting (can also be tuned to one color for a nice backlight). If you are interested in that one I have a referrel code you can use to get the price lower than msrp.
If you can spare $40, this Magicforce 68 is a pretty good keyboard. It's a 60% board, so some of the extra key functions are layered underneath other keys. But it's not super hard to get used to.
If you need a full-size, it's a little bit more at $70.
Neither
CoolerMaster Trigger Z
MagicForce 108
Sacrifice quality? Not necessarily, let me link you some of the keyboards i was looking at. You would lose rgb but gain real mechanical switches not rubber dome switch with mechanical like feel.
Logitech g610 white led cherry mx red
Logitech g410 tenkeyless rgb romger g
Corsair k63 tenkkeyless red led cherry mx red
Qisan white led gateron browns
Ive had the tenkeyless version of this keyboard for 2 years now. Still going strong but as my dads keyboard now.
REFURBISHED: Razer Blackwidow x rgb doesnt list the switch but its mostly likely razer green Dont know if you care about refurbished or not but i listed one just in case you dont
Magicforce 108 Key with GATERON Browns white non-RGB backlit $69.99 (better thank Kaihl or Outemu or unspecified switches but a compromise on RGB)
https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-Backlight-Magicforce-Qisan/dp/B01HHTFSIK
This Magicforce 108?
Magicforce 108 with Gateron browns. Also comes in a version with blues if you want to keep the click
Every board has a metal plate so no worries there. For $100 and fullsized you could try the big Magicforce. Not 100% sure of it's quality, but having owned the smaller Magicforce 68, I think it was ok for the price. Magicforce is touted around here as being a pretty good fullsized board.
You can also check out the Masterkeys Pro L which is much more widely known and advertised. If you stretch your budget a bit more, you could have the RGB version but that's a bit pricey.
Any switches are good for typing considering people game and type on rubberdomes. Just figure out what you like. (Either in person, which I recommend, by going to a Bestbuy/ Microcenter or buy a switch tester, which is pricey and doesn't give you the full feeling.)
https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-Backlight-Magicforce-Qisan/dp/B01HHTFSIK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1506642470&amp;sr=8-4
perhaps? I'm sure you can get cheaper Kailh switch keyboards but from what I heard Gateron is superior. Often times its even said to be better than Cherry switches.
there's no such thing as a "beginner" stick. you just need to get one that uses decent parts like sanwa. unfortunately that means you will have to spend more but I recommend Hori
if you're really strapped for cash try this stick and then mod it later with sanwa parts
also playing on pad is perfectly viable, even more so for SFV. so don't feel like you need to get one unless you have aspirations to go to japan one day and play against the arcade heads
It's $120 CAD from amazon.ca if you want it faster. Qanba Drone
I concede on the KBM part. I agree, you can get stuff that will work fine for pretty cheap.
The T16000m by itself is around $40 on amazon normally. They recently released the new FCS HOTAS, which comes with the T16000m stick and a throttle, for $130. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KCHPRXA or the same thing with pedals included for $200 https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T16000M-FCS-Flight-Pack/dp/B01N2PE8CZ
They are switching over production from the older green design to the newer gold design, so I wouldn't buy anything right now until it settles down again. I expect you'll be able to buy the stick alone again once they do (and people can stop scalping them...)
You're not the only asshole who thinks that, there's a whole large crowd of us. :)
Twist sticks are never good anyway. They're looser, more prone to breaking, and lack precision.
You want those pedals. I've got the VKB T-Rudder Mk4, but that's because I have hardwood floors and any other model would slide all over the place. CH's Pro Rudders are a fine base model for ~$100.
If that's too much, get this instead. It's a step down from the CH (pretty sure the stick twists), but has the whole set. You want those pedals.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N2PE8CZ/
im a button whore, so yeah, more buttons the better (my desk has a k95 with the extra buttons, a USB keypad for extra buttons, a Razer nostromo keypad for more buttons, and a Razer naga for EVEN MORE BUTTONS!!!)
what do you use as lube for the throttle?
EDIT: so you got this?
It's this: https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T16000M-FCS-Flight-Pack/dp/B01N2PE8CZ/ref=sr_1_4?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=4NCFNXYZ4ONU&keywords=t16000m&qid=1563283031&s=gateway&sprefix=T16%2Caps%2C239&sr=8-4
It's a very good starter system not to expensive but very well made. It was my first Hotas :)
But since Variolamajor wants to sell his warthog i recommend u talk to him first b/c the warthog is way better. If it's to expensive just write me a PM :)
I have recommended this to many people, and I honestly think it is the best set up on the market right now: https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T16000M-FCS-Flight-Pack/dp/B01N2PE8CZ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1522886090&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=thrustmaster+t16000m
I see some people saying to get World Traffic. I think you would have a better time doing something like VATSIM than using World Traffic.
Planes I would recommend:
Flight Factor A320 - Pricey, but it pays you can see the high quality you are paying for. In my opinion, it is the best plane on the market in any flight sim.
Flight Factor 757 Extended - Another one of my favorites. I enjoy having the passenger and cargo variants, I am super into flying cargo runs.
Few others things, other than planes:
If you fly in the US, KSLC by ShortFinal is an amazing payware scenery. ShortFinal also known as MisterX on the forums, is, in my opinion, the best scenery maker in X-Plane.
Sometimes the best things for this game are free. If you have the storage space, and you think your game can handle it, download Ortho4XP and get some ortho scenery.
If I think of anything else I will add another comment
>alrdeay have an HTC vive and a hotas X (that i do not like ) i have a budget of 150-200€ ( 160 to 220 $ )
Thoughts on the entire setup tm t16000 fcs hotas (not a sponsored link, just generic link to first amazon link).
Thanks for this ad which is still higher priced than Amazon, I guess
If you have the budget, you may like this setup https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T16000M-FCS-Flight-Pack/dp/B01N2PE8CZ/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1540203046&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=Thrustmaster. Be sure to dig into the reviews, but this model seems like sturdy budget solution for stick, throttle and pedals. Mine should be arriving today.
I am looking at this set.
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T16000M-FCS-Flight-Pack/dp/B01N2PE8CZ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1496603618&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=Thrustmaster+T.16000M+FCS+HOTAS
I see in the game the pilot has rudder pedals. Do I need them? I suppose for immersion purposes it would be nice.
$179.37 (Prime) Thustmaster T16000M FCS Flight Pack
Get the whole HOTAS// Why not
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T16000M-FCS-Flight-Pack/dp/B01N2PE8CZ/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503064722&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=rudder+pedals
Currently looking for my first mechanical keyboard. I've looked at the wiki, but there's so much information I'm honestly a bit overwhelmed.
At the moment I've narrowed my choice to a full keyboard with brown switches. I think I'd like full RGB customization as well.
I have $125 to Amazon, so am focusing my search there. Anyone have any suggestions? Can a be a bit more than the 125 if it's really worth the money. Thanks!
Is something like this a good keyboard?
https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-K556-Mechanical-Keyboard-Aluminum/dp/B01NAI2TXC/ref=sr_1_25?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511835084&amp;sr=8-25&amp;keywords=mechanical+keyboard
https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-K556-Mechanical-Keyboard-Aluminum/dp/B01NAI2TXC
$60, Nice sturdy aluminum frame, brown switch, full size, and feels fantastic.
rgb can be turned off and adjusted via software. use it every day and love it. they're a pretty popular entry level mechanical keyboard that's extremely hard to beat because at $60 they sell every switch type and they feel fantastic. Hell they had a compact red switch keyboard for $30. if you want others just head to amazon and Seach "Redragon red switch" or whatever else
GMMK TKL. It's a little more than what you're looking for but totally worth it. You could check out Red Dragon keyboard as well.. they don't have great switches but are just fine and will get you by.
https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-K556-Mechanical-Keyboard-Aluminum/dp/B01NAI2TXC
You can remove the switches on this board I believe. You can install different switches when you're ready.
They have a TKL for like $44 as well.
Have you loooked at ReDragon Devarajas ? Cheap,great build quality,great doubleshot keycaps,brown switches from Outemu,replacable.
https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-K556-Mechanical-Keyboard-Aluminum/dp/B01NAI2TXC
I had it for some time,but went with a 75% one for fun and stopped using the bigger one. Was hard fore to sell it even tho I kept it in a box for over 5 months,because when I took it out to clean it I remembered how great it was. 10/10 would buy again if I needed a budget ,100% board .
I bought and returned 3 or 4 keyboards until I found this one. It's a mechanical with three switch options (drown blue and red I think) and every key has it's own RGB LED and can change color independent of the others. It's well worth the money in my opinion.
Redragon K556 RGB LED Backlit... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NAI2TXC?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
A buddy of mine has one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-K556-Mechanical-Keyboard-Aluminum/dp/B01NAI2TXC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493813794&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=redragon+rgb
For the price it is pretty sweet. The bottom is plastic, so its not all aluminum. Minimal bezel and brown switches. They also have a TKL variant as well somewhere.
This isn't the best board in the world, but for around $50 it's not bad. It should come with cherry brown equivalents, so it'll be quiet.
Your English is quite good :)
I wouldn't really recommend the three options that you listed as they aren't really the best value for the money (especially so with the Logitech and the Corsair). Instead, I'd recommend either the GMMK or the Redragon K556, mainly because both of these keyboards have the ability to pull out the keyswitches and replace them with new ones, which can be extremely useful for both longevity purposes and for customizing your keyboard to your liking. The Redragon would be a good value conscious option, while the GMMK is the better choice for pulling out keyswitches, as the GMMK seems to have a wider range of compatibility versus the Redragon.
Also, unless you're specifically a fan of memchanical keyboards, I wouldn't recommend the CM Masterset, as they don't come close to replicating what an actual mechanical keyboard feels like.
Yes. My opinion: get openvr advanced settings on github, turn signal on steam, vr covers 6mm pleather foam, a deluxe audio strap if you don't already have one, and learn about supersampling (unless you have a weak GPU). I've had a Vive since April 2016.
https://github.com/matzman666/OpenVR-AdvancedSettings/blob/master/Readme.md
https://github.com/matzman666/OpenVR-AdvancedSettings/releases
http://store.steampowered.com/app/689580/TurnSignal/
https://vrcover.com/product/htc-vive-foam-replacement-6mm/
https://www.amazon.com/HTC-Vive-Deluxe-Audio-Strap-pc/dp/B06Y2GDXMC
Htc vive website:
HTC Vive Deluxe Audio Strap https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y2GDXMC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_u6ZkDb2BY0EZ1
Welcome to the superior comfort of the vive. Now on quest!
The DAS is $99 on Amazon, this video explains how to install it.
https://www.amazon.com/HTC-Vive-Deluxe-Audio-Strap/dp/B06Y2GDXMC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1496758505&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=htc+deluxe+audio+strap
I'd sign up for alerts with MS and Amazon rather than pay the ridiculous shipping premium.
https://www.amazon.ca/HTC-99HAMR001-00-Deluxe-Audio-Strap/dp/B06Y2GDXMC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1496811997&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=vive+deluxe+audio
you can always sign up for e-mail alert from Amazon to let you know when it is available. (https://www.amazon.com/HTC-Vive-Deluxe-Audio-Strap/dp/B06Y2GDXMC/)
I'd guess around $105.
Deluxe audio strap $100 + 3M command velcro strips $5
https://www.amazon.com/HTC-Vive-Deluxe-Audio-Strap-pc/dp/B06Y2GDXMC
https://www.amazon.com/Command-Picture-Hanging-4-Pairs-17207-ES/dp/B004054NSQ/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=command+strip+velcro&amp;qid=1558608942&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-10
It's back in stock on Amazon, at least for now! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y2GDXMC
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1337111-REG/htc_99hamr001_00_vive_deluxe_audio_strap.html
https://www.amazon.com/HTC-Vive-Deluxe-Audio-Strap/dp/B06Y2GDXMC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1496201311&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=vive+strap
Depends on what you want to spend. Look up reviews on these if that's what you want. I just strapped a battery bank with velcro to the back to counter balance I then wear a baseball cap backwards underneath and just got a new face cover and just those feels great to me and minimal cost. I already owned the battery bank and cap. You could use anything with weight though. Or like I said check reviews for the following...
There is a halo strap https://www.goquestvr.com/index.php/product/halo-strap/
The Frankenquest https://www.amazon.com/HTC-Vive-Deluxe-Audio-Strap-pc/dp/B06Y2GDXMC/ref=as_li_ss_tl?tag=vrmediaproduc-20&keywords=htc+vive+deluxe+audio+strap&qid=1560896762&s=gateway&sr=8-1&linkId=49d2dfcb3477ed9031a20d9de9149d85&language=en_US
HTC Vive Deluxe Audio Strap https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y2GDXMC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vh6QDbJFKXWY6
Vive owner for a year and a half. What I've gotten on an as-needed basis over that time is:
Vive n Chill
Dog leash and carabiners
Silicone wand covers
and the DAS
in addition to cheap tripods to mount the lighthouses on to begin with, etc.
A little review on my 5K XR:
The headstrap is really s**t - cannot emphasise this enough. It is easily solved with the HTC Vive Deluxe Audio strap
HTC Vive Audio Strap
That requires a person with a 3D printer to make you three pieces, one for the top and one for each side.
Now we have something that works, but the faceplate is also s**t, so again, in steps HTC Vive:
Vive Cover
So now you want to know how it works, given that I am not experiencing pain just having the headset on?
I upgraded to the PIMAX from the Oculus CV1.
I have mainly used it for DCS, but have done a few sessions in IL2. I have an NVIDIA 2080TI, and I really would not spend the money on the headset if you cannot afford the graphics card, so that's about 2 grand american right there, net whatever pennies you can get for your Oculus and 1080.
So, now how does it work? - I got violently sick with the normal and wide FOV, just like in my parents' car as a child. The side view flashes past and made me sick.
I then changed to narrow view, and everything was fine, at least for me. I have friends who are happy in both normal and wide.
The cockpit is a lot clearer than with the Rift. With a reversed baseball cap under the straps, I can now tighten them enough that I can dogfight with no headset movement, even with a headset on top, which is an improvement on the Rift.
So my conclusion is, after a lot of farting around with both the strap and the graphics settings (PTool, DCS etc.), it is a huge improvement over the Rift and has made my DCS experience materially more immersive.
However, if you want a plug and play device, then this is definitely not for you, even if you have the two grand lying around.
[16AGR]Durham out.
So I emailed thrustmaster and this is what they sent me:
>We thank you for your interest in Thrustmaster products and for reaching us regarding your inquiry.
>
>The initial versions of this new product will be as following:
>
>- the FCS throttle available as a standalone device;
>
>- the throttle and the joystick unit, as a package;
>
>- T.16000 Flight Package (the FCS joystick and throttle units accompanied by the TFRP Rudders Pedals pedal set).
>
>We are also taking into consideration the commercialization of the T.16000 FCS joystick as a standalone device but at this moment we cannot provide you with an ETA on when this will become available.
>
>We rest at your disposal for any other inquiries.
That being said it looks like it for preorder outside of the states and bhphotovideo.com also has one.
EDIT: welp they are available in the sates for preorder now amazon link I don't understand why they would send an email saying they don't know if they will be selling it on its own when they were going to allow stores to announce that they are the very next day.
For all you commanders wielding a dual joystick setup, you can finally purchase the new Thrustmaster T16000m flight stick separate from the new HOTAS throttle. Available 28 November 2016.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MQEDEEW/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1479119919&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=Thrustmaster+VG&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41ddxyOeLrL&amp;ref=plSrch
Edit: For those looking for international shipping. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=&amp;sku=1296153&amp;gclid=CJWs1I2MqNACFdglvQod70EObg&amp;is=REG&amp;c3api=1876%2C50960586482%2C%2C&amp;Q=&amp;A=details&amp;pcur=AUD
>Also, long-time question: how does track IR work? If you turn your head wouldn't you not be able to see the screen?
It's not a 1:1 mapping of movement. You set curves so that (for example) if you turn your head 10 degrees and your view turns thirty. I use OpenTrack and have it set up so pointing my head at the edges of the screen (so I can point my eyes the other way and still be able to see all the screen) turns my in-game view 180 degrees in yaw, and +90/-45 in pitch.
As far as hardware goes, something like a Thrustmaster T1600 FCS pack might work for you; it comes with a stick, throttle and rudder pedals, is reasonably cheap and isn't as massive as something like an X-56.
Let me grab a link....
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T16000M-FCS-Flight-Pack/dp/B01N2PE8CZ/ref=sr_1_13
This is a great starter pack with solid controllers for all three bits. I had this to start and was very, very pleased.
I eventually replaced the stick with a Warthog, which I also love. I will next replace the throttle with the Warthog throttle. After I get out of ship debt on my credit card ;)
Anybody got experience with this:
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T16000M-FCS-Flight-Pack/dp/B01N2PE8CZ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495450862&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Thrustmaster+T.16000M+FCS+Flight+Pack
Is this any good for Star Citizen?
Hey. It doesn't really mater as most yokes aren't that realistic as you can't turn them the full ninty degrees. (Some really expensives yokes have do this). A yoke also takes a lot of space. It doesn't really matter for flight simulation. I'd recommend the https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T16000M-FCS-Flight-Pack/dp/B01N2PE8CZ joystick. Although I'm a boeing fan it's just better and cheaper to take a joystick.
&#x200B;
(In de link above rudder peddals which is a must and a throttle are included)
I haven't bought the game yet but it looks really cool, I hope to be able to use these peripherals when I buy it. Thanks for working toward a quick bug fix
&#x200B;
I have a Thrustmaster HOTAS
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T16000M-FCS-Flight-Pack/dp/B01N2PE8CZ/ref=sr_1_1?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1549048613&sr=1-1&keywords=thrustmaster
&#x200B;
And a Gladiator flight stick
https://www.amazon.com/Gladiator-Joystick-Flight-Simulator-Controller-Stick/dp/B01G6GT49O/ref=sr_1_16?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1549048659&sr=1-16&keywords=flight+stick
FYI, both Amazon and Newegg have the thrustmaster 16k flight pack on sale for $126.
Newegg requires using their phone app & a code but Amazon does not.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N2PE8CZ
&nbsp;
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826280082
I'm on the fence as I don't think I'll be getting Elite....sounds too grindy for me.
Price History
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CamelCamelCamel - [Info] │ Keepa - [Info]
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Don't Rook too long, these prices might not last.
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Alright tomorrow is the first time I'll really be diving in. I've had the game for a long time now but could not get used to the controls with keyboard and mouse At least not to an extent I felt was fun. But all you seem to really love the game so took some of my cash back money and bought.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N2PE8CZ
So any advice for getting started with the game or even the controls would be appreciated.
From what I've heard, Redragon make some very well made mechanical keyboards for very cheap prices, here's one on amazon with RGB lighting:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NAI2TXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_gm9HybJJNQMK2
https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-K556-Mechanical-Keyboard-Aluminum/dp/B01NAI2TXC/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=redragon+k556&qid=1562896534&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1#customerReviews
I got the ones with Brown switches. However, this keyboard only works on specific systems. On my old desktop, the keyboard doesn't do this animation, but on my new one, it does.
The other guy's recommendation is pretty solid, if you want a full-size one there's this.
https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-K556-Mechanical-Keyboard-Aluminum/dp/B01NAI2TXC/ref=sr_1_4?crid=33EBP6L0PQ602&keywords=mechanical%2Bkeyboard%2Bbrown%2Bswitches&qid=1565206371&s=gateway&sprefix=mechanical%2Bkeyboard%2Bbrow%2Caps%2C203&sr=8-4&th=1
I'm having trouble deciding between the redragon K561 , K556 , K557 , K558 , and the Vava mechanical keyboard
I have no idea which one would be better for me, and with most of them i can barely see any real differences apart from with or without numpad (which i never use). Does anyone know which of these would be the best choice?
Redragon K556 Mechanical Keyboard and Logitech G502
Oh.
In that case:
As for a mouse, I'd recommend:
EDIT: NVM, just realized you went ahead.
Personally I was using https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-K556-Mechanical-Keyboard-Aluminum/dp/B01NAI2TXC/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1517855594&amp;sr=8-9&amp;keywords=redragon+mechanical+keyboard before i picked up a 910 orion and i enjoyed it... Give it a shot its a little more than you said $58 but... It looks good, feels good... and has a decent amount of things you'd expect(anti ghosting), swappable keys, etc etc...
I bought this one for $60 US, and I absolutely love it. It’s mechanical with brown switches, multiple color settings, and it feels like it’s very good quality!
You can find it under different name: Redragon k556.
Brown switch: https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-K556-Mechanical-Keyboard-Aluminum/dp/B01NAI2TXC
Blue switch: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Redragon-K556-RGB-LED-Backlit-Wired-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard-104-Floating-Keys-/222396670082?hash=item33c7dfe082:g:4y8AAOSwUKxYkuq8
So I was searching around a bit more since you guys made some compelling arguments and found another pretty cool contender. The Redragon K556 Devarajas seems really awesome. This one is actually all metal unlike the corsair, still has all the features I liked about the corsair, and is quite a bit cheaper!
Also, I was checking out the brands you guys suggested, like Ducky and Coolermaster but it seems that they charge a bit more for the backlighting. Ducky has some really nice ones but they tend to run at around 150 with RGB, while coolermaster runs about 140.
My logic here is that the Redragon could hold me over for a couple of years until I have a better job and can afford a 150-200 dollar range keyboard.
Fingers crossed that ya'll like the Redragon haha
is this a good mechanical keyboard and deal?
https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-K556-Mechanical-Keyboard-Aluminum/dp/B01NAI2TXC/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1542324787&amp;sr=8-9&amp;keywords=mechanical+keyboard
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823816085&amp;utm_medium=Email&amp;utm_source=IGNEFL042117&amp;cm_mmc=EMC-IGNEFL042117-_-EMC-042117-Index-_-GamingKeyboards-_-23816085-S2A4B&amp;ignorebbr=1
was $80 until it sold out. have a good one
edit: https://www.amazon.com/RK-Setting-Mechanical-Keyboard-Switches/dp/B01KJTG62M/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492922378&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=brown+switch+rgb
have another. he did not ask for cherry specifically. he asked for browns
edit: https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-K556-Mechanical-Keyboard-Aluminum/dp/B01NAI2TXC/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492922378&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=brown+switch+rgb
have another
Hi guys im looking for a cheap rgb mechanical brown keyboard, the colors are super important to me and i just wanted to know which of these had the better colors.
https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-K556-Mechanical-Keyboard-Aluminum/dp/B01NAI2TXC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492588194&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=rgb+brown+switch+keyboard
or
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Global-Marketing-Partners-Excalibur-Spectrum-Brown-Switch-Full-Color-Keyboard/45810387?wmlspartner=wlpa&amp;selectedSellerId=1896&amp;adid=22222222227033077827&amp;wl0=&amp;wl1=g&amp;wl2=c&amp;wl3=76977009911&amp;wl4=pla-133673071991&amp;wl5=9031154&amp;wl6=&amp;wl7=&amp;wl8=&amp;wl9=pla&amp;wl10=113134512&amp;wl11=online&amp;wl12=45810387&amp;wl13=&amp;veh=sem
it seems like the greens on the tesoro arent visible
Is it possible to remove the audible click from a keyboards switches? I'm looking at getting the Redragon K556: https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-K556-Mechanical-Keyboard-Aluminum/dp/B01NAI2TXC/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492304422&amp;sr=8-14&amp;keywords=redragon
It has the keypad on the side which is something I was looking for, and the RGB backlight that I can customize. But can I get a bag of O-Rings to dampen the switchers? From reading reviews it looks like they use otemu switches, but I've seen that most O-rings should work with them. I'd like to damped the noise so I don't wake up my daughter after she goes to sleep, is this a viable option?
Hello guys looking for reference which is better from these 2 keyboards or if I should opt for another option. I took the redragon as an option because someone told me that its cheaper than the glorious and offers the same.
Redragon k556 devarajas
Glorious Gaming Mechanical Keyboard
Thanks
Can't find an r556, I assume you mean the k556? https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-K556-Mechanical-Keyboard-Aluminum/dp/B01NAI2TXC/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
Only differences are it's RGB, it's got a numberpad, and it's Brown witches, the k552 is Blue, Brown switches are a bit quieter and the tactical bump is more subtle. They're both good switches and quality wise the k552 and k556 are very similar and you'd be happy with either, just depends on which keys you want and if you want RGB and a numpad.
Just look around on Amazon and read some reviews. There are so many affordable mechanical keyboards these days and with a budget of $60 you have lots of options if you choose to go mechanical. Here are some good mechanical options/brands:
https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-K556-Mechanical-Keyboard-Aluminum/dp/B01NAI2TXC/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1505072205&amp;sr=8-9&amp;keywords=red+dragon+keyboard
Red Dragon is rising star in peripheral market, they are geared towards wallet conscious consumers, but offer some good products.
https://www.amazon.com/Razer-Blackwidow-Ultimate-2016-Refurbished/dp/B01LXOPFWP/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1505072792&amp;sr=8-8&amp;keywords=razer+keyboards
Here is a refurbished Black Widow Ultimate from Razer, which as you probably know is a renowned reputable brand. This offers green back lighting like you requested and is right at the $60 mark.
https://www.amazon.com/Cougar-Attack-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard/dp/B01938BWZG/ref=sr_1_28?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1505073256&amp;sr=1-28&amp;keywords=CHERRY+MX+keyboard
This keyboard lacks green or rgb lighting, but does offer Cherry MX switches in either blue, red, or brown. Cherry MX switches are German made mechanical switches and are generally regarded as the best switches you can get. I personally own a Corsair K65 RGB (the oringal, not the lux) with Cherry MX Reds and its fantastic, but at $170 bucks its out of your price range and the price has become inflated anyway.
If you really value led lighting non mechanical keyboards are the best way to get your RGB fix. While not as fast or in my opinion as nice to type on there are many wonderful options in the way of membrane keyboards.
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Gaming-K55-Keyboard-Backlit/dp/B01M4LIKLI/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1505073832&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=RGB+keyboard
If you don't want to go mechanical this Corsair 55 is a great alternative. This does not offer per key back-lighting, but has some great lighting effects that beat out most mechanical keyboards in this price range. By the way, this keyboard is only $50.
There you have it my super long comment regarding keyboards. As I said before, spend some time on Amazon researching keyboards in more detail, but the ones I listed are in my opinion some of the best options in your price range.
There is the Redragon K556 full size with cherry browns for roughly $50.
https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-K556-Mechanical-Keyboard-Aluminum/dp/B01NAI2TXC
This is the best you will get for that price.
https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-K556-Mechanical-Keyboard-Aluminum/dp/B01NAI2TXC/
Larger version
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0171BSNYK/?tag=pcpapi-20
What keycaps does this board use? I want to replace some modifiers.
Redragon K556 RGB LED Backlit Wired Mechanical Gaming Keyboard, Aluminum Base, 104 Standard Keys https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NAI2TXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BkcRzbVTHP8M9
They look like OEM. Can anyone confirm?
Is this a good choice? I was looking for a keyboard with a numpad that lights up, don't care about programmable keys at all.
Hey, I'm looking for a board with the following features:
Full-size or 90%
Stiff-ish, tactile, quiet switches. MX Clear or Brown or comparable
Orange or Red or RGB backlighting
As non-gamery as possible
~$50 US
Actually available
Media keys and replaceable switches is a plus, but not strictly necessary
Edit: bigass enter keys need not apply
So far, I'm looking at the following:
Redragon K556. RGB, replaceable (Otemu?) Browns. Looks alright, but I'm not big on the plank-with-keys-on-top style.
Redragon K578. RGB, non-replaceable Browns, has a nice plain look apart from the dorky keycap font and red logo.
Kaihua K16 White LED with Brown Switches. Looks nice but I'd prefer a warm-color LED. "Out of stock. No available estimate." Wonderful.
Anyone have experience these, or other recommendations in the same price range?
I'm currently sporting a Redragon K551, which is long out of warranty and developing key chatter issues in several keys.
I just got this today. I love it.
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-K556-Mechanical-Keyboard-Aluminum/dp/B01NAI2TXC/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=redragon+mx+brown&qid=1556595022&s=gateway&sr=8-3
I've been quite happy with my Redragon K556. They're not true Cherry MX switches, but typing still feels good. General construction feels good. And the RGB is programmable so you can tone it down if you don't want a crazy disco party. It's $60 USD, but presumably a little cheaper across the pond.
Hey I actually have Redragon K556 with brown switches, I believe they use the same innards, let me know if you’re interested
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01NAI2TXC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1518721732&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=redragon+k556&amp;psc=1
I have a similar one that's $60 and it's awesome
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NAI2TXC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Hello everyone,
I bought a keyboard off amazon and it was not very loud for being a mechanical keyboard.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NAI2TXC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I am trying to find one that is loud. I have a budget at about $100
Hey all. I'm new here and I'm also new to mechanical keyboards. I'm basically looking for a budget, rgb, brown switch keyboard that is relatively quiet.
I currently have this and, while I love the feel, it's obnoxiously loud. However, this keyboard from the same company has brown switches (Outemu?) and reviews are good. I'm also open to the option of getting o-rings if absolutely necessary. Thoughts?
Do you mind tenkeyless or need any other features?
Someone on here pointed this one out to me: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01NAI2TXC/ref=psdcmw_172487_t1_B00YMDYMYQ
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01NAI2TXC/ref=psdcmw_172487_t1_B00YMDYMYQ
Durable metal construction, custom lighting creation, mechanical keys, and pretty cheap.
I bought one as my backup keyboard in browns to be quieter during late night sessions. I've had it for over 6 months and have no complaints.
/u/seapodstudios : Thanks for posting
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new to vive: looking for suggestions to hit the ground running! by seapodstudios
howdy.
====
my first vive set arrived today as follows:
Black Friday bundle of the HTC VIVE Virtual Reality System comes with a free VIVE Deluxe Audio Strap and includes Fallout 4 VR, Google’s Tilt Brush, and a free trial for Viveport Subscription.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VF5NT4I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;th=1
https://www.amazon.com/HTC-Vive-Deluxe-Audio-Strap-pc/dp/B06Y2GDXMC/ref=sr_1_3?s=videogames&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511815008&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=vive+headset
====
i have also ordered a tripod setup as follows:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004U5F3OE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VAH3KWC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2TNW8ZCY8P5MD&amp;psc=1
====
the vive hardware arrived today (!) and the rest is set to arrive wednesday along with my first alienware box (wootwoot). i'm hoping to hit the ground running on wednesday with regard to any extension cables i might need to cover a 10'x10'x10' play space that will be covered by an 8'x10' carpet on hardwood for tactile reinforcement of the concierge.
if anybody has any tips/links to share re: pitfalls to avoid during setup that would also be greatly appreciated.
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Samsung HMD Odyssey+ - $355.00 new on Amazon.com as of 7/3/2019
Pros:
Neutral:
Cons:
Oculus Rift S - $399.00 new on Amazon.com as of 7/3/2019
Pros:
Neutral:
Cons:
HTC Vive - $480.41 on Amazon.com as of 7/3/2019
Pros:
Neutral:
Cons:
Uh, bro?
AMIGO https://www.amazon.com/HTC-Vive-Deluxe-Audio-Strap/dp/B06Y2GDXMC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1496936700&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=deluxe+audio+strap
I was talking about the Vive Deluxe strap. I remember it being more comfortable then the original Vive strap and easier to tighten as it was just a knob. This was great when many people were trying it. Just need to figure out a good way to attach it.
Deluxe Audio Strap In stock on August 8, 2017 Amazon US $99.99.
https://www.amazon.com/HTC-Vive-Deluxe-Audio-Strap/dp/B06Y2GDXMC
Even better is that I ordered mine Sunday, July 30, 2017 and got the e-mail today saying the expected delivery is Thursday, August 3, 2017, I was really surprised!
Only reason to wait would be to see if the Vive comes with the audio strap included after it releases. Someone might already know, other than that, nope go ahead and have fun.
Audio Strap
https://www.amazon.com/HTC-Vive-Deluxe-Audio-Strap-pc/dp/B06Y2GDXMC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=htc+deluxe+audio+strap&amp;qid=1570626520&amp;sprefix=htc+deluxe+udio+strap&amp;sr=8-1. That one with quest?
Maybe they don't live in the USA? Here in Australia its hard to find. on Amazon there's one for $575.47
https://www.amazon.com.au/HTC-Vive-Deluxe-Audio-Strap/dp/B06Y2GDXMC/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=vive+deluxe&amp;qid=1575095024&amp;sr=8-1
Sites like Amazon, NewEgg and Microsoft plus others say it's out of stock when you try and purchase it.
So it's literally the opposite of what you claim, it's not available anywhere at the moment. I've also read it has been discontinued.
$99 at Amazon
VRGE with magnetic charging cables $149, Vive N Chill $32, Hyperkin skins $35, 6mm replacement cushion $12, Deluxe Audio Strap $100, keep the old strap to do the Frankenmod, replacement foam for deluxe audio strap $20 and most people love the joystick attachment, I hated them. $348 total without the joysticks, ~$380 with them.
I just bought a Vive on Amazon yesterday for $499+tax.
Vive & Rift on Amazon.
People are saying to get the Deluxe Audio Strap for the Vive, which is $99.
Damn not available in the US
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06Y2GDXMC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493061714&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=htc+deluxe+audio+strap&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41cS1RXldML&amp;ref=plSrch
courtesy of jfwaitier : https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B06Y2GDXMC he sent this link, can't wait! preordered!
Same deal on a Deluxe Audio Strap. There are no 'Like New' in my area but in 'Very Good' condition it priced out $64.83 before tax.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B06Y2GDXMC
My first fightstick was a Qanba Q1. I replaced the stick and buttons with Sanwa parts as per the usual advice. I really dug it. So much so, in fact, I'm thinking about buying a Qanba Drone for a backup stick and adding a Sanwa JLF and Hayabusa buttons(my personal preference ever since I bought a Hori RAP4). I'm also currently planning a custom fightstick build, but thats neither here nor there. If you're set on buying a stick, the Qanba Drone should make a great first one, assuming the quality is on par with the Qanba Q1. Its a bit on the light side but it can be weighted. You can get stick on weights at any hobby store like Hobbytown USA etc. Just remember to switch out the stick and buttons with Sanwa parts. Heres a video guide for switching out the stick and buttons.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_sexNFxi38M
Just an FYI for when you're removing the balltop, you twist the balltop off. Do not twist the screwdriver. Thats just for holding the shaft so that it doesn't spin while trying to unscrew the balltop.
I hope you find what your looking for whether you go this route or not
Parts:
https://www.amazon.com/Qanba-Drone-PlayStation-4/dp/B01I0GEDEY/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=qanba+q1&qid=1565635749&s=electronics&sr=1-1
https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-2-54mm-Pitch-Female-Adapter/dp/B00W948IDG/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
https://www.focusattack.com/sanwa-jlf-tp-8yt-joystick/
https://www.focusattack.com/sanwa-obsf-30mm-pushbuttons-black/
Here's a link to the Drone:
https://www.amazon.com/Qanba-Drone-PlayStation-4/dp/B01I0GEDEY/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=hori+fighting+stick&amp;qid=1565040128&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-15
And here is the one to the fighting stick:
https://forums.shoryuken.com/t/hori-fighting-stick-for-ps4/586681
Hey there I wrote the guide on /r/fightsticks
> I want it to be a pretty cheap one like the Mayflash F300
> Also I saw these octagonal restrictor gates and just wanted to ask what are they?
What’s your limit per se and your systems you want to use it on? Reason I ask is I know a couple really good budget sticks. (Mayflash F300, Mayflash F500) but the best budget stick in my opinion that’s actually on sale right now I’d recommend the Qanba Drone. Easy to mod too (like I modded mine out with Sanwa parts and Hayabusa buttons) here’s the Amazon link of it while it’s down in price at $69 https://www.amazon.com/Qanba-Drone-PlayStation-4/dp/B01I0GEDEY/ref=sxin_1_ac_d_rm?ac_md=3-2-cWFuYmEgZHJvbmU%3D-ac_d_rm&amp;crid=361Z42RGDGX46&amp;keywords=mayflash+f300&amp;pd_rd_i=B01I0GEDEY&amp;pd_rd_r=fbb14bab-5c40-4ca6-99fc-0da2a5f86dac&amp;pd_rd_w=Bs9Pl&amp;pd_rd_wg=0tyq3&amp;pf_rd_p=d29bc9bc-49e2-46b8-bc05-387917c341ec&amp;pf_rd_r=C6GTT35K40VEH3BV43Y0&amp;qid=1567897331&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=Mayflash+f3%2Caps%2C158
Also if you’re willing to go up about $30, then this is a great stick on sale too and actually comes with Hayabusa matte buttons (which are great buttons and would mean you don’t have to mod it too much if you like those. I personally love Hayabusa buttons too) https://www.amazon.com/HORI-Real-Arcade-Pro-Soul-Calibur/dp/B01A8L6O0U/ref=sr_1_1?crid=NAN7Q46MA42W&amp;keywords=soul+calibur+fight+stick&amp;qid=1567897678&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=Soul+calibur+figh%2Caps%2C165&amp;sr=8-1
I'm in the same situation as you, coming from playing smash 4 competitively for almost a year now and wanted to try SF5. I would recommend either getting the Hori Fighting Commander 4, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GVOFIAA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_soNkzbF5WZWMH or the Qanba Drone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I0GEDEY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hpNkzbN42VHVE
I personally recently purchased the Qanba Drone due to a fighstick being much easier and healthier for my hands and wanting a fighstick as I've heard of how helpful they can be for execution. I at first was going to get a fighting commander 4, and would suggest that if you think you'd prefer pad, but my personal recommendation is a Qanba Drone. It's a bit pricier but it's a quite good stick for the price and can be modded in the future if you decide you really like stick.
save up 20freedommoney
Getting PS sticks to work in KI has always been a chore with hit or miss results, and has actually changed for better and worse after some updates. My Quanba drone actually lost both heavy buttons a couple updates ago even using joytokey and the like. It didn't matter how I set it up, what keyboard keys they were emulating, I just couldn't use my two heavy buttons.
For what it's worth, I use a Hori fighting commander, and I go through two a year. I drop inputs all the time as the d-pad wears out, and doing constant quarter circles in KI in particular gets really unforgiving as it loses sensitivity. So it's hard to say weather your d-pad is going, or if it's KI just being KI.
I'd rather get one cheap, and make it better over time. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I0GEDEY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wcErzbBT8NXS4 is this one good for a beginner or complete crap?
lol that stick is pretty bad actually. If you want to commit to using a stick, I'd actually recommend this one. It's not much more expensive and uses much better parts than does the super cheapo hori one. If you get either though, you can always upgrade the parts though. However, as others have stated, there's absolutely nothing wrong with learning the game with a controller instead of an arcade stick. Some people believe that using a stick is more accurate, and it can be, but there are people who learn how to be extremely consistent and precise with their inputs anyway, haha.
Thanks for the input. Damn those pads are kinda expensive (Canadian Dollar FeelsBadMan), but it seems the general consensus is to avoid the mini pad, so I'll do just that.
Someone below suggest this specific stick. Is this a good enough stick to get me rolling, cause it's significantly cheaper than the Qanba Q4?
save the money, it's going to feel like shit, and have shit parts.
No one here is going to recommend you spend it, save for a few more weeks or whatever and then look for one.
https://www.amazon.com/Joystick-PlayStation-Fighting-Officially-Licensed-Product/dp/B01I0GEDEY/ref=sr_1_3?s=videogames&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1496869308&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=fightstick
thats the cheapest you will get with anywhere near passable quality, even then i DO NOT recommend it to anyone.
edit: you can try craigs list I got my hori rap v hyabusa, for 100, cost 200 off amazon, got hori rap 4 offers for like 80, costs 150 off amazon.
Ok first off hi! I'm beatlemnkyhuman a.k.a Jesus nice to meet you.
You don't need a stick
It's a luxury. Sticks are pricey and custom sticks can get really pricey. I've heard of players buying sticks and never using them so some buy them just for the swag but it is no longer needed.
Luffy won evo and went pro with a ps1 pad and he still uses a ps1 pad.
Punk went pro on pad, nuckledu is pro on pad coolkid plays pad.
you no longer need a stick
A stick will not make you better.
Contrary to popular belief a stick is not magic.
You will still have to work. In my personal experience, it took me 3 months or so to get over pad and get used to stick. If you did not grow up with a stick then there's no reason.
Next thing, if you did grow up with a stick then your memory maybe rose tinted in that your remembering being better then you ever were. Sticks take work just like pad.
If after all this you still want a stick:
I recommend focus attack for custom art work and big e customs for custom designs as that's what I use
[the te2 is the pro standard. Amazing stick, easy to mod. Sanwa buttons and sanwa stick.] (https://www.amazon.com/Fighter-FightStick-PlayStation4-PlayStation3-playstation-4/dp/B018AW405K/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1543512575&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=madcatz+te2%2B&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41vrhKHqO9L&amp;ref=plSrch)
some players prefer the hori rap4 with hori parts. It's cheaper so the stick is a little more loose. Hori parts fully and difficult to mod
the qanba drone is seen as a cheap alternative. Sanwa buttons i think and if not it can be modded easily. Known to not last
The qanba dragon is a monster of a stick that goes for 300 and the obsidian goes for 200.
EDIT: The razr panthera is a pro favorite as well, impossible to mod the artwork but an amazing stick for 200
If you want to go custom from the ground up then you can do allfightsticks. Com which will give you a sleek heavy steel frame or marvelous customs.
Each of those custom sticks will run you 300 plus.
You can even go wood frame which may be even more expensive.
Good luck.
If you get a stick for under $100, at the very least make sure it's easily modiable. I don't know much Xbox arcade sticks but I usually recomend a Qanba Drone but since you're on Xbox you'll have to use a Converter. There is also a Evo edition with Sanwa parts already installed
OK, I play on PC so I think this should work for you.
I'm in the same boat. Grew up playing MK1-3 at the arcade and wanted to play MKX.
After trying to play on a controller, I couldn't get into it. So I decided to go the fight stick route. Had no clue which way to go but after lots of searching and whatnot, here';s what I found.
Biohazard and others like to use a TE2. It seems to be the bee's knees. I didn't want to sink $200 into a stick to try out so I got a Qanba Drone. The joystick didn't feel right so I found this tutorial that shows ya how to change the joystick out for a better one. Now, technically it's not like the old MK1-3 sticks in the arcade but I've grown to like it. You can change out the buttons too if you want but I haven't done that yet.
If you want a fight stick that's like the old MK arcade sticks, you want one of these.
Let me know if i can help ya out anymore.
I have the Quanba Drone. https://www.amazon.com/Joystick-PlayStation-Fighting-Officially-Licensed-4/dp/B01I0GEDEY. That guy
Unfortunately I don't think it does. The Qanba Drone as someone else mentioned does. There's a $20 price increase though
Can't find the hardware thread so
First off lemme say that no one I know is dropping $120+ on something for little ol' me.
But if someone will spend a little less and then I can plunk some better buttons in there, that sounds great to me. I'm looking at these 4 options right now:
https://www.amazon.com/Qanba-Controller-Fight-Stick-Drone-PS4/dp/B01I0GEDEY/
https://www.amazon.com/Carbon-PlayStation-Android-X-Input-D-Input-Joystick/dp/B01HSQE7IY/
https://www.amazon.com/Mayflash-Arcade-Fightstick-Joystick-F300/dp/B019MFPLC0/
https://www.amazon.com/Qanba-Q1-PS3-Joystick-Fightstick/dp/B00BXPIO1S/
Doesn anyone have any experience with these out of the box and after modding? Any issues? I will also be using this to play GG and possibly BB if that makes any difference.
Hi there! Please remove everything in your links after ref= including ref=. If you'd like a copy/paste:
https://www.amazon.com/Qanba-Controller-Fight-Stick-Drone-PS4/dp/B01I0GEDEY
https://www.amazon.com/Carbon-PlayStation-Android-X-Input-D-Input-Joystick/dp/B01HSQE7IY
https://www.amazon.com/Mayflash-Arcade-Fightstick-Joystick-F300/dp/B019MFPLC0
https://www.amazon.com/Qanba-Q1-PS3-Joystick-Fightstick/dp/B00BXPIO1S
Not only does this make your post much easer to read, it also removes any unintentional advertising links.
We're going to keep this post removed until you can edit, thanks!
https://www.amazon.com/Joystick-PlayStation-Fighting-Officially-Licensed-4/dp/B01I0GEDEY
Quanba Drone I believe many people say is a good cheap stick.
If you do make the plunge and get a stick I would recommend the Qanba Drone, it's probably the best entry-level arcade stick. https://www.amazon.com/Qanba-Joystick-PlayStation-Fighting-Officially/dp/B01I0GEDEY
this is the one i own and its pretty good https://www.amazon.com/Joystick-PlayStation-Fighting-Officially-Licensed-Product/dp/B01I0GEDEY
I'll keep that in mind.
Do you think it's a big step down from this one that /u/yetanotherkappaalt posted?
https://www.amazon.com/Joystick-PlayStation-Fighting-Officially-Licensed-Product/dp/B01I0GEDEY/ref=sr_1_1?s=videogames&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480889305&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=qanba+ps4
if you can find one in stock anywhere I'd recommend the Qanba Drone
$79.99 retail
In your case, I'd go for a budget one, it's called Qanba Drone, it's not the best, but for $79, it gets the job done https://www.amazon.com/Joystick-PlayStation-Fighting-Officially-Licensed-4/dp/B01I0GEDEY
I used to be a pad player since Tekken 5, I only used stick when I played on arcade, I bought Qanba Drone when T7:FR was released on PC, it takes time to get used to sticks especially if you've been using controller for a long time, there are moves that's easier to do on sticks
I use a Qanba Drone. It's not the greatest stick on the planet but it does the job and I greatly enjoy it. If you're looking to get into big time fighting tournaments, my buddy recommends buying something more expensive. But if you're just looking for a fun time then this will do the trick.
hey man i am undergoing the same process as you, except I decided to go with the Qanba drone and then purchased a set of 8 sanwa buttons and a sanwa joystick for about 40 more, all in all ill have a pretty decent stick part wise for about 97 dollars which i think is a decent deal
Masterkeys Pro L
Also available with RGB if you like that stereotypical PCMR look.
Ignore all those and buy a keyboard with real cherry MX - Coolermaster Masterkeys Pro L. Yes it doesn't have RGB but do you want a good keyboard or just RGB bling?
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.in/Cooler-Master-MasterKeys-Intelligent-Switches/dp/B01ITE93OM
&#x200B;
Fabulous keyboard for the money - I have been using one for over a year and it regularly goes for 5499 during sale.
Thoughts on this iKBC CD108 PBT keyboard with Brown switches compared to the MasterKeys PBT board and the Masterkeys Pro L board?
I have the Pro L reds at home and am looking for one with Brown switches for work. A little harder to find nice ones in an affordable price range in Canada though.
Was looking at this iKBC board that ships from the US for an odd $120 CAD without taxes ($89 + $30 Express shipping [$25 standard]) on checkout.
It comes out cheaper than the MasterKeys Pro L Browns for $128 before tax.
If you want a full size board I would recommend a Cooler Master Masterkeys Pro L
:D Those are just the default keycaps on the masterkeys pro L
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ITE93OM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_suV5ybKD8QYAJ
This is what I'd buy if I were you. You can choose between red (linear) and brown (tactile) switches and it has white backlighting, you can get RGB for a little more. Cooler Master's boards are really good for the price.
Since you're looking at a full size with the HyperX, check out the MasterKeys Pro L that's available with just white backlighting also available with MX browns. Quite a bit less than the RGB CM stuff.
Cooler Master MasterKeys Pro L with Intelligent White LED, Cherry MX Brown Switches, Multiple Lighting Modes and 100% Layout https://www.amazon.in/dp/B01ITE93OM/
But you have to increase your budget by 1.5k
o-rings are modules, just search for gateron clears, and then buy some o-rings on amazon.
I'm afraid that you won't find any gateron clears on any of the mainstream gaming keyboards.
You could buy Cherry MX browns, you'd find them quite easily they are in between linear (nicer for gaming) and tactile (nicer for typing) they are the best of both worlds.
A cool keyboard with browns and backlit (gaming at night ...) : the
link to a 100% keyboard from Cooler Master
link to a 100% keyboard from Corsair (Corsair has a bad reputation but don't listen to the r/mkb elitist, they are nice boards)
link to another Corsair boards, cheaper and simpler
finally a board from Logitech that looks like a regular mechanical keyboard without too much things on it
Cooler Master MasterKeys Pro L White Mechanical Gaming Keyboard, Cherry MX Brown Switches, Per-Key White LED Lighting, Full Size https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ITE93OM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_CxHozbNYCA17T
I have the pro m but the build quality is fantastic.
In this photo, you will see (bottom-up/left-right):
https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/S89047259/; for providing a surface for most of the following listed after this.
Looking to buy my first mech keyboard, preferably less than $140 AUD, that has white or blue backlighting, is full sized, has a standard key layout and has Cherry MX Browns. I'd also like something not too flashy.
I had my heart set on this, but the price has gone back up. I looked around Amazon and saw this, does it look like a good one? And if not, does anyone know of any good alternatives?
I was originally planning on buying from an Australian store, but some keyboards on Amazon US with shipping are cheaper than in Australia without shipping. Thanks Australia tax...
I have a Magicforce 68 now, and it is very compact and saves desk space. However, the key caps are kinda thin I think.
It was on sale for $30 on Amazon, but I think it is back up to $40.
Or get a Gateron Brown one for 52. Some say they prefer Gateron Brown over MX Brown.
Or, you can wait for 3 weeks and get Cooler Master Masterkeys Pro for $70 on Amazon: LINK
Need some help deciding between Ducky One 2 and Coolermaster Masterkeys Pro L.
Let me preface this by saying that this is my first keyboard and I live in India(so prices are absolute dogshit). I'm currently using the keyboard on my MSI GS 60 which, tbh, is the best laptop keyboard that I've used.
I have narrowed my search down to these two keyboards. Ducky One 2 in white with white LEDs or Coolermaster Masterkeys Pro L with white LEDs both in MX Browns.
I really like how the Ducky keyboard looks with the white on white, but shipping it to India along with any costs of customs duty will make it over twice the price of the CM keyboard(which I found on amazon.in). I chose these keyboards because it doesn't look too gamery and stuff with weird legends. I like the minimal design of both of these and RGB is not necessary (although, I don't mind having it) but the plain backlighting, I need. I do use the numpad, so a 100% keyboard is necessary.
I'm open for suggestions and I'm willing to spend around 100 USD (which is what the CM keyboard retails for on amazon.in)
Would this work? buy a set from china ans swap everything out?
https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-MasterKeys-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B01ITE93OM
>How do you know which one to get
The keyboard, switchtype and keycaps all come down to personal preference.
I'd recommend you research the most common MX switch types, and possibly get a switch tester to get a general feel for the individual switches before settling on a board.
>do you have to build the keyboard piece by piece?
Short answer, no.
Longer answer, a lot of keyboard enthusiasts choose to build their own keyboards with individually sourced high quality and sometimes sought after and rare parts, in order to build a keyboard to their exact preference. As a first time buyer, buying a stock board from a vendor or shop should do you just fine.
The Cooler Master MasterKeys Pro L seems to fit your specifications perfectly, and with the Cherry MX Brown version sitting at $89 on Amazon right now, you're getting quite a good deal.
I'm looking to buy one of the following keyboards, but not sure which one to get. All prices are Canadian dollars, so don't be alarmed if they seem high :)
I missed out on buying a $164.99 Ducky Shine 6 PBT Double Shot Black Keycaps RGB LED - would that have been the best one to buy? Price higher than the others was the only limiting factor.
http://www.ncix.com/detail/ducky-shine-6-cherry-mx-7b-141351.htm
Just throwing these Keyboards into the mix as well, you'll probably immediately disregard them but included them just in case:
Cooler Master MasterKeys Pro L with Intelligent White LED, Cherry MX Brown Switches, Multiple Lighting Modes and 100% Layout https://www.amazon.in/dp/B01ITE93OM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9yw9AbZNG6DAB
There's this one, but it's got a numpad (still is fairly compact with not a massive frame) and MX Browns, but costs 6k. Its TKL version, is however at double this price 😂🔫
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01ITE93OM/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483484777&amp;sr=8-4&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=masterkeys+pro+l&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51xFCCl5w2L&amp;ref=plSrch
I'm bias.
It looks like all of the CM keyboards are MIR eligible. The Pro L has a $20 MIR.
How is CoolerMaster with rebate processing? And are you guys thinking about jumping on this deal or waiting for Black Friday?
Newish to mechanical keyboards and have been doing my research. I can't decide which keyboard to choose and was hoping you could help me decide.
I was considering the Masterkeys Pro S over the Pro L but the brown switch version is currently priced at ~$156 over the blue switch version at $99. I'm guessing it's really popular so the price keeps going up due to Amazons algorithm. The RGB version of the Pro L with Brown switches is ~$136 but I'm not sure I want to pay $26 for some pretty lights. The RGB Ducky one is at $140 but then I'm paying $40 over the blue version just for some fancy colors. I was thinking if I wan't pretty lights the MK Disco seems to be the best value.
I think I'm leaning towards the disco. Also, if there's anything I'm missing or you have a suggestion other than these, let me know.
The T300RS is $200 on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1L2NRL
Thrustmaster T300 RS GT Racing Wheel - PlayStation 4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1L2NRL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fbplDbR0TCZV5
Here is an awesome deal on the T300RS GT
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T300-RS-Racing-Wheel-PlayStation/dp/B01M1L2NRL
I doubt it, see https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T300-RS-Racing-Wheel-PlayStation/dp/B01M1L2NRL
Do you perhaps have the GTE edition, which was supposed to have the pro pedals? GTE is $100+ more than GT?
It'sstill listedwith 1 in-stock. There were 20+ in-stock yesterday so they must be using this shipment to fill backorders.
They advertise that they are somehow selling a 12nm Direct Drive wheel for $399 that is competitive to the $900 Accuforce wheel.
However, what they fail to mention are the sustained torque figures. The only "affordable" servo motor that can hit 12nm (as they advertise) is the MiGe 130ST-M04025. This budget servo motor is only capable of 4NM sustained.
This means that it's NOT a competitor to the Simexperience Accuforce wheel that offers 13nm sustained (with a 16nm peak).
This means that it's only capable of competing with the other ~$400 wheels-sets like the T300RS, which Feel VR is charging $599 for on Indiegogo
Hope this helps!
Measured sustained/holding torque (excluding peaks):
Logitech DFPro: ~1.1 Nm (rumored, unable to find loadcell/torque measurment)
Logitech DFGT: <2.5 Nm
Logitech G920/G29 2.2 Nm
Logitech G27: 2.3 Nm
Mige 80ST-M02430: 2.39 Nm
Logitech G25: 2.5 Nm
Fanatec GT2: 2.6 Nm
Fanatec GT3RS v2: 2.6 Nm
Thrustmaster TX: 3.9 Nm
Thrustmaster T300: 3.9 Nm
MiGe 130ST-M04025: 4 Nm
Thrustmaster T500RS: 4.4 Nm
Fanatec CSW v1: 4.8 Nm
Fanatec CSW v1.5: 5.2 Nm
Fanatec CSL Elite: 6.0 Nm
Thrustmaster TS-PC Racer: 6.0 Nm
Fanatec CSW v2: 6.0 Nm
Fanatec CSW v2.5 : 7.3 Nm
Leo Bodnar Simsteering2: 8.05 Nm
Mige 130ST-M10010: 10 Nm
Lenze MCS12H15L: 11.4 Nm
Simexperience Accuforce v1/v2: 13 Nm
Mige 130ST-M15015: 14.4 Nm
Fanatec Podium DD1: 15 Nm (as advertised, not confirmed)
FREX DD WHEEL: 16 Nm
Fantec Podium DD2: 18 Nm (as advertised, not confirmed)
Note: Most Mige 10/15 users run their motors at ~25-50% torque.
Note2: Holding torque is arguably the most important factor when it comes to using a wheel. However other factors such as smoothness, linearity, drive type, peak torque, ease of use/setup/configuration, game support, software, etc etc should not be ignored when picking a wheel. Research accordingly.
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T300-RS-Racing-Wheel-PlayStation/dp/B01M1L2NRL/ref=pd_ybh_a_7?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=TM6JM139XC5EJ8ZTDXEE 350 dollars for the GT edition, pull the trigger?
The servo/wheel I linked come in a bundle with pedals for $499, but if I buy them separately, I can get the better pedals for a $50 difference (better T3 pro pedals are $150 on their own)
The T300RS is also available for $347:
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T300-RS-Racing-Wheel-PlayStation/dp/B01M1L2NRL/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1549332715&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=thrustmaster%2Bt300%2Balcantara%2Bedition&amp;th=1
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T300-RS-Racing-Wheel-PlayStation/dp/B01M1L2NRL
Thanks for the reply!
Okay so this is what I bought
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T300-RS-Racing-Wheel-PlayStation/dp/B01M1L2NRL/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1500815622&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=t300+gt+rs
I also have
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-TH8A-Add-Gearbox-Shifter-Xbox/dp/B005L0Z2BQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=videogames&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1500815656&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=t3pa+shifter
and I have a GT Omega stand
https://www.amazon.com/Omega-Steering-suitable-LOGITECH-Driving-Shifter/dp/B072PPSJY3/ref=sr_1_1?s=videogames&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1500815674&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=gt+omega+steering+wheel+stand
I've used them Twice
I'd be willing to give 20% off if you bought everything.
My choice would be T300RS GT (https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T300-RS-Racing-Wheel-PlayStation/dp/B01M1L2NRL)
But not Xbox compatible.
Not sure which country you are in, or what your actual budget is... But the T300RS GT is good value for money.
$380, and, jeez, these crappy pedals are still basically all plastic.
Considering the abysmal reliability record of the T300, the loud fan that won't shut up, zero quality pedal choices unless you use G27/29 pedals with an adapter or buy Fanatec pedals for the price of the wheel (and won't work in many games that only accept stock wheel setups), etc. I really don't see a reason to choose the Thrustmaster.
Thanks for your post ! Since I created this post I saw some new wheel that might be cool. Right now I'm looking over :
https://www.amazon.ca/Thrustmaster-T300-Racing-Wheel-PlayStation/dp/B01M1L2NRL/ref=pd_cp_63_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=Y38YKBPK1V3WBAJDGN6A
or
https://www.amazon.ca/Thrustmaster-T500RS-Racing-Wheel-Playstation-3/dp/B004J6KRD6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1494250893&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=thrustmaster+t500
or should I keep G29 ?
Has anyone read up on the new T300rs GT? What's the better deal?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1L2NRL/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_H2IpybZ3QJ0GK
This is what I originally used and thought it was great for the price:
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T300-RS-Racing-Wheel-PlayStation/dp/B01M1L2NRL
Found this on amazon, They have some deals going on, only $300 right now
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T300-RS-Racing-Wheel-PlayStation/dp/B01M1L2NRL/ref=sr_1_6?crid=3QUEUIFNW7BTA&keywords=thrustmaster&qid=1574581674&sprefix=thrus%2Caps%2C218&sr=8-6
THRUSTMASTER T300RS GT
T150 thrustmaster (175 from newegg, bestbuy will honor in store price match), I went dirt cheap because I am new to the sim gig and didn't want to put up a ton of cash if I didn't like it. Now I am looking at the OSW open source wheels which is like a $1200 solution.
VR racing is my favorite use of virtual reality.
There are belt/gear driven wheels and direct drive wheels. There are a few options between 150-500 bucks, all of them will get the job done the same. If you are never going to upgrade but you want a good wheel, get a $300+ belt/gear wheel with pedal package.
Most common,
G27
or
T300
There are various models and packages both thrustmaster and logitec offer more expensive standalone wheels but at $500 dollars you start to get into premium belt/gear territory.
Fanatec CSL
Then there is the ultimate, direct drive. Fanatec just released a new wheel and there are others but we are talking 1k+ for the wheel alone.
OSW sumucube is an open source racing wheel kitted together for the user. You can find the OSW kit guide but there are a lot of parts to build and learning to go with it, the kit saves the trouble but is less expensive than other direct drive offerings.
TL;DR It is all based on price point, $150, $300, $500, $1000. I chose to go the cheapest possible route, use it until I can afford the upgrade or it breaks.
Your best bet would probably be the T300RS GT edition for around $450 - https://www.amazon.com.au/Thrustmaster-T300-RS-GT-Edition/dp/B01M1L2NRL/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=Thrustmaster+T300&qid=1555519222&s=gateway&sr=8-5
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It also comes with the T3PA pedals, which are much better than the normal 2 pedal thrustmaster option.
What? The t300 GT edition is the same price as the base model: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M1L2NRL/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495476170&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=thrustmaster+t300&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=411vsJlmBML&amp;ref=plSrch
So you'd recommend two of these?
Nice. One of the good things with the T16000M is that it's reversible- so if you want the option of dual sticks you can get a matching one and use it with your left hand instead of the throttle.
This offer is probably the best value hotas you can buy at the moment. The quality is excellent if you don't mind a plastic stick.
Its a nice joystick and currently on sale
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQEDEEW/
> Don't by a plane with complicated systems and tricky/unique flight characteristics if you can't fly an F-15 proficiently. The FC3 planes have simplified systems but most have the same level of flight model. The F-15C and Su-27/33 are 3 of the best air to air planes in the game, so you're not at a disadvantage in that regard, if they were full fidelity they'd probably be even better (more radar modes to work with is one that comes to mind), master these then get the mirage
Thanks I think I'll stick with the FC3 planes mainly the F-15C for now, I heard that Mirage is not ransferable between Steam and Standalone so that might be a problem.
Also Can Steam players play with Standalone players?
> Get a proper hotas before going past the FC3 aircraft
So HOTAS X would be insufficient? I did look at the T16kM do I need the throttle combo? or just the stick? since I see there is what looks like a small throttle slide right there
and what do you think about the VKS Gladiator MkII stick? I've been eyeing it for a while (because I like how it looks, but expensive, I'm probably more likely to get T16K M. )
One last thing, Su-27, the engine won't start, I know the Start up sequence is pretty similar for all FC3 planes, I did the same things I do on the F-15C but the Throttle doesn't respond, there is no engine noise the plane just won' start.
MiG29 did respond to the same start up sequence, (battery>cockpit>engine>Nav lights>flaps)
Get yourself two of these and play Star Citizen!
https://smile.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-2960773-T16000M-Joystick-Black/dp/B01MQEDEEW/
Yes, DCS.
Mapping controls for flight sims is an enormous pain in the ass, no way around it. That's why I'm flummoxed as to why XP11 is so far the only legacy sim to implement motion-controlled cockpits (IL2 doesn't either.)
XP11 will give you the basics of flight and I think they have a tutorial, too. But at some point, you'll need a hotas. If you're on a budget, get a twist stick with a slider that you can use for throttle (separate throttle is way over-rated imo).
eta: i've heard good things about the t16000. Thrustmaster VG 2960773 T16000M FCS Joystick, Black - PC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQEDEEW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_slFYBb7HVTQW1
Get the throttle set if you're feeling rich.
I use the T16000M Joystick.
While some of the buttons are softer than I'd like, it is very good. I really enjoy racing with it.
I would go with the T.16000M (but why is it so expensive?). The new T.16000M with orange lights costs only 50€ in Europe and 59$ in the US link.
But if you can spend more (and i mean a lot more) i would go for a VKB Gladiator Pro or the better Gunfighter plus pedals. I just ordered a pair of gunfighters with rudder predals for 900€ (plus another 500€ for better grips and twist adapters after they come out next year).
Imho is for space sims a dual stick setup the best option because you need 6 axes (one for each of the 6DOF). Right now i use 2 T.16000M til my new sticks arrive. And for warthunder you only need one stick without throttle since the T.16000M has a throttle slider.
You are in luck! These guys (which are generally recommended) are on sale: https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-2960773-T16000M-Joystick-Black/dp/B01MQEDEEW
Get two for a HOSAS setup.
There's the Thrustmaster t.16000M stick. It's a little light on hats, but from what I've heard it's pretty quality otherwise. Amazon link here
This is the new version
Amazon VG T16000M
Not sure if they are still making the older one, I currently have 2.
I use the Thrustmaster Warthog HOTAS and also got a second Warthog Stick for a dual stick setup.
http://www.dell.com/en-us/shop/accessories/apd/a9168831?cid=309562&amp;st=&amp;gclid=CLWYqP6dk9QCFR1LDQodiiAAFw&amp;lid=5848362&amp;VEN1=s7nLQ1cQ4,183457792450,901pdb6671,m,,A9168831&amp;VEN2=,&amp;dgc=ST&amp;DGSeg=DHS&amp;acd=1230980731501410&amp;VEN3=812403894302130950
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CBVHJ00/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_IJXkzbZ5X9RT3
I also use the VKB Rudder Pedals.
http://store-x-plane-org.3dcartstores.com/VKB-T-Rudder-Pedals-MkIV_p_571.html
As for matching sticks, I am waiting to get the VIRPIL grips since they fit on the Warthog bases.
https://virpil.com/en/filtered/gpips/
-------- || -------- || --------
Alternatively, you can go with two VKB Gunfighter bases and wait for VKB SIM to release their newer right handed and left handed grips (which you can purchase later).
https://vkbcontrollers.com/?product=vkb-sim-gunfighter-base-only
Or perhaps two VKB Gladiator Pros for now and update both grips or just the left grip later when they eventually release:
https://vkbcontrollers.com/?product=vkb-gladiator
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Another way to go about it is getting two T16000 sticks (for a dual stick setup):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQEDEEW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8UXkzbM4P2BW7
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Or just go with the T16000 HOTAS (with or without pedals):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KCHPRXA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_PVXkzbAW6TM7K
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PII6YI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yWXkzb0KK7FTK
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Now although there are other options, like the Saitek products (X52, X55/X56) and CH products, those just aren't my cup of tea and too many problems plague the Saitek products that they don't seem to be worth investing in. I returned mine and got the Warthog setup and it's so much better. Night and day difference.
I hope I have listed enough choices at different price points to help you make a more informed decision.
And YES, DUAL STICKS are the best :D
says you can order and they'll ship when ready.
I personally recommend this setup:
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T-16000M-FCS-HOTAS-Controller/dp/B01KCHPRXA
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-2960773-T16000M-Joystick-Black/dp/B01MQEDEEW/ (stick only)
Only $100 for stick and throttle, $50 for just the stick. Throttle has enough buttons that you won't need to touch your keyboard. I don't recommend just the stick on its own, having a stick + throttle really is the way to go.
First, sorry for my shortcutting on the joystick. I was referring to the Thrustmaster T16000M. Same idea, basically, other than I am less interested in the full SIM, and am more likely to go with a HOSAS rather than HOTAS experience. As a side, I have a passionate interest in peripheral interfaces overall. I worked with a rehabilitation center in a Kinesiology College at a University, and I helped with the IT for laboratories which were using video game technology to combine with engineering to help people with disabilities. That included everything from people with MS interacting with Ocular Rift, to wheelchair rehab, etc. So I really geek out on ultra high dpi controls.
You did answer my question on that I would need an expansion for planetary landings and buggy exploration. That is a thing I like about the game's potential. I watched some videos by ObsidianAnt and they did interest me.
I think for me to subscribe, realizing that I'll have to spend some cash to do what I want and face some grindy elements, I'll basically see if I can find some social interaction that makes it worth my while.
I was skeptical but hopeful for years, until I saw Hurston and Lorville get released, and I finally jumped in both-feet during the end of the last Anniversary sale. Player-generated clips like this one and this one definitely helped convince me... I mean look at that, it's all actually there in the game, nothing is a backdrop only for viewing from that spot on some map, that sun isn't rising, the earth-sized planet you are on is spinning in space.
My biggest suggestion: get a proper HOTAS, or at least a stick with a throttle on it and some good base-area buttons - I use an old Saitek X-52 that interestingly enough is being re-released in a few weeks. There are some serious mil-sim level ones out there too. The T-Flight Hotas X and T16000M are popular for the budget-minded (although Star Citizen will rapidly change your mind about what "sensible expenditure" in a game means lol). Get a used one if you want a killer one but can't afford new (seriously though, $60 man, very worth it), but it's a huge help not having to go to keyboard commands for anything flight-related, including targeting, countermeasures, scanners, thruster controls, etc. When hopping out of your flight seat (either to do something in your ship or get out of it entirely), just have the mouse and keyboard positioned to either side of the flight stick, easy. You'll use the mouse in the cockpit a fair bit too, to interact with the MFDs sometimes for things like requesting landing clearance, changing MFD functions, overclocking components on the ship, etc,. It's the most immersive sci-fi flight/FPS/society game I've ever seen.
I'd highly recommend to get in as soon as they announce Update 3.5, adding the entirely new planet ArcCorp, its main landing area for spaceships Area 18, several moons, and the long-awaited new flight model, go Public Live in a few more days. Fly your starter ship (I recommend the Avenger Stalker starter ship or the Cutlass Black package for the bit of cargo space you get, helps make a little money and can still fight ), enjoy a bit of mission running, exploration etc, and learn the world, and when the next massive Anniversary Sale comes around in November you'll know what ships you really want and can make informed decisions, as the sales they have at that time are awesome.
Whatever starter package you get, it'll need to be a "Game Package" that includes the base game as well, and after that one-time buy you just buy standalone ships or packages if you want to pay real money, or you can buy many of them in-game for game-money (UEC) if you make enough (many good ones are millions of UEC). The advantage of paying real money is that they will be with you forever - as they make major updates CIG usually resets all accounts to starter levels again, and you lose anything you earned in that version of Alpha - but you also have many advantages in Alpha that will not be present in the final game so still worth it to buy cheaper ships in-game IMO.
^edit: ^added ^bit ^about ^game ^packages
Well, I skimmed through your videos, and thank you for your input, however, the work you are talking about it beyond my skill level. I found a T160000M direct from Amazon for $60 new, so I ordered one. If I like it, I will probably order a second one. If I decide I would prefer to use a throttle, I still have the throttle from my X-55.
Now I just need to figure out what to do with these old sticks....
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQEDEEW/
Back in stock with price increase?
> Price: $72.62 & FREE Shipping
> Only 18 left in stock.
> Sold by Beach Audio
What the fuck thrustmaster...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQEDEEW
That's the one I got off of Amazon. It's not super cheap but it's way less than the other ones they offer, in case you're looking for something new.
No, because two sticks are $120. The HOTAS is $110 on sale.
If you already have an xbox, ps2/1, or gamecube controller
http://www.amazon.com/Gamecube-XBox-Controller-Adapter-favorite-PC/dp/B000ND3XXA
This will let you use any of those. Great for all kinds of emulators.
this mayflash adapter is pretty solid in my experience:
http://www.amazon.com/Gamecube-XBox-Controller-Adapter--favorite-PC/dp/B000ND3XXA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1394308349&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=3+in1+adapter
it has an xbox and playstation adapter as well if you would perhaps use those.
Here's one for $13. No idea what the quality is like though. http://www.amazon.com/Gamecube-XBox-Controller-Adapter--favorite-PC/dp/B000ND3XXA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1396984663&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=mayflash+usb+gamecube
And here's the one I have. It's $19, but it works perfectly. http://www.amazon.com/GC-Controller-Adapter-PC/dp/B0089NVTDM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1396984661&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=mayflash+usb+gamecube
You can use a 360 controller or you get an adapter off Amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/Gamecube-XBox-Controller-Adapter--favorite-PC/dp/B000ND3XXA/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1393922335&amp;sr=1-1-catcorr&amp;keywords=raphnet
You can grab this: http://www.amazon.com/Gamecube-XBox-Controller-Adapter--favorite-PC/dp/B000ND3XXA
Any USB HID compliant device will work, but you'll probably need to create your own customer controller.ini. There's a program called HID-Test that will give you your values for each controller.
So there's two options i suggest
If you want to connect two players for cheap you can get the hde ps2 adapter HOWEVER you will have to follow a guide and have a seperate program running to make sure the game recognizes the pads as buttons and not analog sticks which can't go two directions at once.
Your other option is buying two of these which pretty much work straight out of the box and can be used for other stuff if you want to.
I've owned both now, i bought the HDE adapter then bought two mayflash since I made a linux Openitg machine and couldn't get the fix working on it. I do suggest the mayflash adapters just because they pretty much have an automatic dance pad mode which recognized the inputs as buttons instead of analog sticks and you don't have any other programs running
but hell if you want to pay for postage i can just send you the HDE adapter at this point since I don't really need it anymore.
I've used these before and it was always just plug and play https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000ND3XXA
http://www.amazon.com/Gamecube-XBox-Controller-Adapter--favorite-PC/dp/B000ND3XXA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1406652886&amp;sr=8-3
Is this the one you are referring to? I see a couple mayflash adapters for GC
I found it at Wal-Mart for $10 like 10 years ago. I can't find the exact same one online, but it's basically the same as this, which has good reviews.
I've been using a Super SmartJoy for years with no problems. And while I don't have the adapter you linked to, I have the Mayflash GC/PS1/PS2/Xbox to USB adapter and it works great.
The official GCN controller is much better quality. Just get yourself and adapter like this one!
do you use this? http://www.amazon.com/Gamecube-XBox-Controller-Adapter--favorite-PC/dp/B000ND3XXA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1375320234&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=gamecube+to+pc
Ive been using a 360 controller and it feels off
I have a wii CyberBike http://www.amazon.com/Fillpoint-VG-273200-Cyberbike-Magnetic/dp/B0058CSF8E and with a USB adapter http://www.amazon.com/Gamecube-XBox-Controller-Adapter--favorite-PC/dp/B000ND3XXA/ it functions quite well as a pedalling and steering device in PC games. That's if you want to cycle in VR though...
For walking in VR I have been pondering on a cheap solution which has the camera on the ceiling for a cheap yet effective positional (and orientation) tracking...
I personally use the Mayflash 3-in-1 Adapter for PC and it has worked flawlessly for me so far. I didn't need to use another program to map the steps for whatever reason. If you plan to get this one, make sure to read the instructions provided since I believe there's a certain order of what to plug in first.
I just want to follow up and say that this item worked out of the box with the Cobalt Flux pad. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ND3XXA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Seconded on the iBuffalo controller. It's probably one of the best PC controllers I have ever owned, and is certainly a good SNES replica.
Also, avoid the Retro USB SNES controller. I see it all the time in Hastings and other stores, and the D-pad is simply garbage, and the plastic used is very brittle. My R button broke when I finally decided to throw it away.
these work really well!
BUT!!! the Zombies Ate My Neighbor rom file is NOT the North American release and is missing some enemies like chainsaw wielding maniacs. Do not rom Zombies Ate My Neighbor if can avoid it
Thanks! I'll share mine: I purchased some USB retro video game controllers from Amazon like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Retro-Nintendo-Controller-Not-Machine-Specific/dp/B0034ZOAO0
Get one of these http://www.amazon.com/Retro-Nintendo-Controller-Not-Machine-Specific/dp/B0034ZOAO0
This might help a little bit.
Well you could just buy a Raspberry Pi, follow the instructions to turn it into an emu device, and buy a USB game controller for cheaper than Ouya. Ouya makes it a lot less complicated, but you will pay a premium for it and the controller isn't exactly worth the $100 ...
Here's what you'd need to do the RPi setup (I use one myself, works amazingly):
Raspberry Pi Model B Console ($35) : http://www.newark.com/raspberry-pi/raspbrry-modb-512m/model-b-assembled-board-only/dp/43W5302?mckv=s2SHZ9lAe|pcrid|33870392901|plid|&amp;CMP=KNC-GPLA
4GB SD Card: $8
USB Controller: (Found these USB SNES controllers for cheap on Amazon) http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0034ZOAO0/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;tag=lifehackeramzn-20&amp;ascsubtag=[referrer|www.google.com[type|link[postId|498561192[asin|B0034ZOAO0[authorId|5716493564230329059
Keyboard
Here's a full tut, http://lifehacker.com/how-to-turn-your-raspberry-pi-into-a-retro-game-console-498561192
I'm not trying to bash Ouya, however from personal experience I think that it's important you weigh the two options and figure out which is best for you :)
I have this NES controllerand it is great. Feels like a real one. I have a different SNES controller. It's constructed well but feels a little lighter then I remember the old one being.
And I bought this one which I used with RetroPi. Both good options.
https://www.amazon.com/Retro-Nintendo-Controller-Not-Machine-Specific/dp/B0034ZOAO0
My vote is for getting the original hardware, then an emu PC, and lastly a clone system.
There are some pretty cool USB controllers out there, like this one:
SNES Retro USB Super Nintendo Controller by Tomee
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0034ZOAO0/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_sEcPub02TG5DP
I used these, but they don't qualify for Prime. It worked fine but I was mostly playing NES and SNES games. For some Genesis games you might have to map L & R to Z & C.
btw heres the one i have Tomee Snes Retro
http://www.amazon.com/Retro-Nintendo-Controller-Not-Machine-Specific/dp/B0034ZOAO0/ref=sr_1_2?s=videogames&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1420261636&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=snes+usb
Bought this one and when I got it I compared everything. It's all the same size and placement, the start and select are hard plastic and the controller itself feels like a different material but no difference in play feel. Overall extremely happy with it.
Nope. You'll need a controller that can connect to the PC's USB port. There are, however, PC controllers that can be bought that way with the SNES model. You can buy a regular USB Controller, a SNES Model controller, or a SNES Converter hardware.
I didn't know such a controller existed... thank you
EDIT: Wow - this really looks like a clever advert-spam scheme
Christmas!
I'm considering using it towards this headset at some point, but $20 postage for $30 headphones kind of puts me off, since it's something that I can find in Korea (not the exact brand, but I just need a comfortable and decent a one for long conversations with people back home), unlike many of my other wishlist items. My headphones have an ear snapped off, so they need replacing. The sound is off and it's somewhat painful to wear for extended periods of time. I'm on a strict budget now, but by early November I might be able to afford to pick one up here.
There's a memory foam pillow which is very tempting. Before it didn't work to send it though, even though it didn't say there'd be any issues on the website.
I'm tempted to pick up this for playing Retro games, but I'll probably wait on it. That's $10 + $10 postage, but I can't get it from anywhere else.
I looked into some candy for my Halloween class, but the ones I tried wouldn't ship. Apparently international sometimes means Canada only.
I might end up saving it towards something big though, like a Kindle.
---
Short version: Still not sure.
Here is a link to the listing: link. I don't see anything suggesting a generic controller and the description clearly states the brand name of the product.
Ok, here is the run-down of what I use.
There are many different emulators you can use to play NES and SNES game ROMs. If you have trouble with the one I suggested, just do a google search and find a different one to try. Also, those are the exact controllers I use and they both work great and feel pretty authentic. However, you can get a converter kit to usb for either original system controller.
Have fun!
I've been using this one for a couple of years:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0034ZOAO0
It's actually quite decent, and for $9 you really can't go wrong with at least giving it a shot. As you can see it is reasonably popular on Amazon (255 reviews) and gets 4 stars.
The D-pad is a hair on the stiff side, but not bad, and certainly no worse than your typical knock-off controller. I was able to play Dustforce with it, so that should speak volumes to its responsiveness. Face buttons are pretty good, shoulders acceptable.
It has held up for 3 years or so with light-to-moderate use with no issues.
I haven't tried the PS ones, but these configure easy and work great.
If you don't happen to already own a bunch of SNES controllers, there's always this.
Thanks for the reply!
The controller I am using is the same one op bought (I pretty much bought everything exactly as he suggested).
Link here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0034ZOAO0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I tried to add a configuration to the end of the retroarch.cfg file, but for some reason I can't type quotation marks ". The pi changes quotes into an @ symbol. Any idea what I'm doing wrong?
I also ran into an issue when I tried to follow the post you shared (thanks btw). When I hit F1 inside the emulator and saved a new config, the notification that it had been created ran off the side of the screen, so I was unable to find out what the file was named.
Can someone please explain to me what SSH is? I ran an HDMI cable from the pi to my monitor so I can switch back and forth from my computer to the pi using the monitor input, is that the best way to do this?
Thanks for your help, sorry for the noob questions. =)
Edit: I don't know why I ask questions before using Google-Fu. Got SSH to work using Putty. Ignore that question =)
Apparently these work, has anyone tried them? http://amzn.com/B0034ZOAO0
Personally, I use the Logitech Dinovo for my HTPC and have a Lenovo trackpad separate since most of the time, I won't need the trackpad while watching/using the Plex or Netflix, so its pretty handy. But here is another cheaper option that I think would be great and kinda regret not getting
The Rocket Book Everlast is not high tech by normal thoughts, but I use it to jot down notes all the time, and I never have to worry about running out of space.
The LiveScribe is also awesome for the same reason, and you can even dictate to it.
Portable charger battery pack for phone or tablet makes for an awesome stocking stuffer. I use mine a lot, and never leave home without it.
This is also pretty handy if you like to connect your laptop to the tv like I do.
A micro usb to usb A flash drive is awesome because toy can store movies on it and watch them on your phone without taking up space on it or its SD card. (They also have them for Apple phones)
If you don't fear for your wallet, and you live near a Fry's Electronics store, they also have gobs of things to give you ideas.
I use https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Keyboard-Touchpad-Android-QQ-Tech/dp/B00BALK9CM when I need to do a little typing along with controlling stuff. Works pretty well.
I've used an Apple usb keyboard with no issues...I'd think any usb keyboard would work fine.
You could get a bluetooth mouse keyboard combo thing like this.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BALK9CM/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=D1ZJABY4W8L6&amp;coliid=I6MI6IMFPEQLH
Hey OP i have this and its a beast! works with almost anything that you can connect it to.
https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Keyboard-Touchpad-Android-QQ-Tech/dp/B00BALK9CM/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1517605594&amp;sr=8-8&amp;keywords=bluetooth+mini+keyboard
Honestly I'll take a windows PC with an HDMI cable over either of those options. It's a streaming box with all the customization you want, more sheer hardware power, plus constantly updated to use the latest and greatest. Couple it with a bluetooth keyboard as a remote, and ta-da.
Im with you on that mhl goes in to the phone first then otg hooks up to micro usb hdmi goes to tv of course but how would it charge? A picture/video of the final set up would be nice. My plan was to use an mhl adapter with charger hooked up to power phone and link a Bluetooth keyboard mouse combo to it like this one http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BALK9CM/ref=cm_sw_r_an_am_ap_am_us?ie=UTF8
I'm not sure either to be honest but I was under the impression that there was no remote options for iPhone. I don't own a steam controller yet either. I'd be willing to look into the other options too. My thought process was I needed a mouse and keyboard but I didn't want it to be bulky or difficult to use from the couch as I said before.
Edit: I think I may have found something. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;source=web&amp;rct=j&amp;url=https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Keyboard-Touchpad-Android-QQ-Tech/dp/B00BALK9CM&amp;ved=0ahUKEwi01cSh96nUAhXFjFQKHflTDGAQFgh5MAA&amp;usg=AFQjCNHpZnkTyVx15oMzAy3Q0gjOeGDarg&amp;sig2=7t_4VJzQkrnq-cn0fn396Q
Currently $25 on Amazon
Oh, you're right. I forget sometimes because of the others I have. I actually do have a working Bluetooth keyboard as the one you describe (this one to be precise - QQ-Tech Mini Bluetooth Keyboard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BALK9CM?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf ) but I would like something with a better number layout (I.e, the 4x4 grid instead of the horizontal keyboard numbers). Easier to change a channel without seeing the remote.
But you have great point, as a regular remote would do the trick then, although I need to place the receiver visible, which is why I liked the wireless receiver in the first place
According to one of the reviews this works with the Fire TV Stick.
QQ-Tech https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BALK9CM/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_0vFJub00VSA7T
I wish I had gotten one with the simplistic navigational buttons on the back for my wife to work the plex. Kind of like the roku controller. Kind of like this one:
Rii mini i25 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J6POGQO/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_eAFJub0VXT1F3
i would recommend getting one of these;
https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Keyboard-Touchpad-Android-QQ-Tech/dp/B00BALK9CM/
it makes an awesome phone companion, typing is alright, but probably about the same as any built on keyboard
where that device really shines is being able to have an accurate pointing cursor on screen especially for navigating web pages
unbox therapy did a video on it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pNFY7t8tJLg
I was struggling with this as I just purchased the firetv stick and I have an iPhone.
After sideloading the Xfinity TV app and settings.apk., this now works perfectly for me: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BX0YKX4 (alternate: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BALK9CM)
if you hold down the right mouse stick and use the trackpad, it scrolls just like the native android app is supposed to.
Yes, it's a $20 solution, but the keyboard has many uses. If there is ONE caveat, the trackpad area is small, so it can take multiple swipes to navigate the guide.
Hope that helps.
Check this one out. I originally got it thinking I'd only use it to type, but now it's pretty much all I use. About half of the apps I use give me some trouble with usage of the "back" button, but it's not really a problem.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BALK9CM?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00
Aw man, I wish titles could be edited, I didn't even see that it autocorrected until you said something. I guess that's what I get for posting from mobile!
I saw both of those cases but wasn't overly enthused. I think I would lean more toward the blue one but was hoping for something a little more...subdued in color. I think I prefer the contoured and textured hard cases with the silicone dots like on UAG cases, and I'm pretty disappointed in the lack of options for this one, though I understand why this is the case.
I love this tablet overall. I've had several android tabs and this one is probably the best one I have had and the best suited for my purposes. I primarily use it for streaming while on the go, with the occasional web browsing session or light gaming (Hitman GO and such). I really like the speakers, which are the best I've heard on a tablet thus far, though I would prefer they were front facing.
I also wish it used USB type C for charging and data transfer, as I've gotten spoiled using that on my Google Pixel phone. the speed is a huge drop compared to my phone.
I have a laptop I use for more hardcore gaming if I'm staying somewhere other than home, though the M3 is great for on the go entertainment. I have a 2TB external HDD that I have filled with movies and shows, so it's great to have a 256GB microSD that's been loaded up for the times that I don't have internet access.
As you mentioned, I have been pretty disappointed by the lack of accessories for the M3. I have one of those small bluetooth keyboards with a trackpad that I use for typing with my thumbs. It isn't the greatest but I find I do better with it than with the on-screen keyboard. Plus using the trackpad for a mouse is handy for when I'm feeling to lazy to lift my hand and use my finger to select something, lol. In case you're interested, maybe check it out!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BALK9CM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Overall I'd say it's a great tablet, especially for my needs. The battery is great, the speed is impressive, the sound is good, and the screen is pretty awesome. I'm not entirely sold on Huawei's approach to home/back/multitasking buttons, but it was an easy adjustment to make.
Thanks I used the settings.apk to install this keyboard/trackpad combo and it works great.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BALK9CM/
Ah..
So, I knew I wanted to sideload some apps. I also installed settings.apk (you can google it and sideload it), then I used that app to connect this BT keyboard / mouse combo.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BALK9CM
This one is bluetooth and it's pretty decent.
Lego Harry Potter Years 1-4 would be awesome
Steam ID
I think he might like this Mini Bluetooth Keyboard, I use it all the time from my bed when watching stuff on my computer.
Thanks appreciate the feedback.. Funny you say all that because now that i spent a little more time on research i found the Amazon remote app. Also found a 3rd party app (wukong remote). Do you have any experience with that one? I will try tonight when i get home from work. Wukong remote even has a quick launch for apps!!!
Was considering this (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BALK9CM?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=ox_sc_act_title_2&amp;smid=A1VCRDPIX0NQ5B) remote, but will hold off til i try amazon remote and Wukong Remote.. I will keep you posted if interested....
Thanks again for taking the time to reply
So a Smart TV keyboard? If so, here is a good durable one.
I opted to go with this one (for use with xbmc) since it had bluetooth support and seemed more generally useful. I expect I'll post something about it once my OUYA arrives (haven't gotten email yet). I feel quite well versed using a keyboard for navigation and then, of course, I can always fall back on the controller.
I'm not sure where to post this, but I'm thinking about painting the red parts on my mouse white, any tips or paint suggestions?
14k DPI? Please...16400 DPI is where it's at
/s
Here are the two that I have on my list right now. Both pretty good and not too pricey!
I've been using this for about a year now, had zero problems with it. Feels great in the hand, buttons are responsive (and programmable via their app), light colors are adjustable, it has a nice weight to it. Can't attest to its ability to last for years, but it's cheap and very good in my experience thus far.
I've not used it, but the Redragon mice have really good reviews on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-CENTROPHORUS-2000-Gaming-Buttons-Weight/dp/B00HTK1NCS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468792954&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=redragon+gaming+mouse
https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-M801-Programmable-Profiles-Switches/dp/B00GU4F4OM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468792954&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=redragon+gaming+mouse
not quite sure of exchange rate, but I've had this for years and still love it. https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-M801-Programmable-Profiles-Switches/dp/B00GU4F4OM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511642744&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=red+dragon+mammoth
I have a Redragon Mammoth which is a pretty good MMO mouse for the price. It's pretty large.
http://www.amazon.com/Redragon-M801-Programmable-Profiles-Switches/dp/B00GU4F4OM
Unless you're only interested in something via paypal, you should just grab this on the ultra-cheap:
http://www.amazon.com/Redragon-M801-Programmable-Profiles-Switches/dp/B00GU4F4OM
For the price... it's flipping amazing. Same omron switches as the $80 Logitech (overpriced) mice.
with this mouse ,you can Magic game.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Redragon-Mammoth-M801-Programmable/dp/B00GU4F4OM/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1462790061&amp;sr=8-8&amp;keywords=redragon
I don't like their keyboards in general only because they are usually Outemu blue switches which about the loudest possible, but the Mammoth mouse is superb for palm grip/large hands. I could say more but the reviews on Amazon should cover everything.
10% off coupon applies = $22.50
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GU4F4OM?psc=1
i'd recommend a Redragon brand mouse. Above is a link to one. There are other versions that compete with the Naga with thumb buttons etc.
The main difference is the palm texture. Most mice are smooth and plastic-y or smooth and rubbery.
Redragon mice are textured on top. Sort of like that black bumpy pads they put on stairs in warehouses to make it so they dont get slippery when wet. But fine enough so that it is still perfectly comfortable in your hands.
Benefits - doesnt get slippery or feel gross if you sweat. Also, doesn't buildup that disgusting gunk over time that needs to get scraped off.
my suggestion for a good mouse that is very well priced is the REDDRAGON MAMMOTH and REDDRAGON products in general. They aren't "professional" grade, but they match the performance, and have held up to rigorous gaming use.
Mouse I use: https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-M801-Programmable-Profiles-Switches/dp/B00GU4F4OM/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1466703773&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=reddragon
Keyboard (I don't personally own this as it was not available when I was making my purchases, but I assume it will be as durable as the rest of their products.): https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-INDRAH-Backlit-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B0171BSNYK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1466704124&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=red+dragon+k553
or
https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-K552-Backlit-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B016MAK38U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1466704161&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=red+dragon+k552
here ya go
Yes, thank you. Op this build is a great starter build. I am going to break it down, and post some alternatives or upgrade options.
CPU: the ryzen 2600 is the best price performance cpu on the market right now. It is powering a ton of midrange and even low high end gaming pcs. GET THIS.
MOBO. a b450 is a good entry level mobo and will work with 2000 series cpus without a bios update.
Ram. Team Vulcan works great with Ryzen. a lot of budget ram does not. If you can spare the extra cash, it is much cheaper in the long run to go with 16GB of the same RAM for $125 if you can spare the extra 45.
An HDD. This is fine. Personally, I would find a way to spend the extra money and go with an 500 GB SSD like this, or this. I would then buy an HDD later. If those SSDs take this build over 700 which appears to be your price limit, then feel free to go HDD.
When it comes to PSUs I don't like this one from above, nor do I like Thermaltake smart. The one thing you should never cheap out on is the PSU, because if a bad PSU fails it can take down your whole system. The above model is described as a safety hazard by review sites, and the Thermaltake 500w smart is not recommended for the same reason. I would get this one. For 10 bucks more you get a classic excellent PSU. While this PSU doesn't have modern PSU features, this is a very solid PSU from a name brand. However, if you want a legit modern PSU then this one would be great, if you can spare the 23 extra bucks.
Finally, the Keyboard and mouse are fine. I got platinum god in the original binding of isaac on a cheapo keyboard combo like this. However, If you want some legit budget products check out the company red dragon. The red dragon kumara k552 is a well reviewed entry level mechanical keyboard, and the red dragon m801 mammoth mouse is excellent. Note that despite the name, the red dragon mammoth is actually great for small handed/medium handed people, as a short 5'6" dude with small hands I love my mammoth, it's the best mouse I ever used.
Here is a build with my suggestions for cost comparison purposes, it will be over your budget of 700 but it is a legit core gaming pc. Here is something to consider:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 2600 3.4GHz 6-Core Processor | $165.99 @ Amazon
Motherboard | MSI - B450M PRO-M2 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | $64.99 @ B&H
Memory | Team - Vulcan 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $124.89 @ OutletPC
Storage | Seagate - Barracuda Compute 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $73.73 @ Amazon
Video Card | PowerColor - Radeon RX 580 8GB Video Card | $219.99 @ Amazon
Case | DIYPC - P48-W ATX Mid Tower Case | $29.98 @ Newegg
Power Supply | SeaSonic - S12II 620W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | $51.65 @ Newegg
Monitor | Asus - VP228H 21.5" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor | $99.99 @ Amazon
Keyboard | Redragon - K552 Wired Gaming Keyboard | $29.99 @ Amazon
Mouse | Redragon - Mammoth Wired Laser Mouse | $26.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $888.19
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-09-30 03:31 EDT-0400 |
The biggest change is that I added an RX 580 which is a 1080 60 FPS beast which should allow 60 FPS at 1080 on high or ultra for the next 2 years at least in modern Triple AAA games.
I also added a 1 MS gaming monitor. This monitor is totally unnecessary for small time indies like don't starve, however, once you get a gaming pc, you might want to play some esports titles like fortnite and a 1 ms monitor will be nice for that.
$20
http://www.amazon.com/Redragon-LAVAWOLF-Gaming-Programmable-Buttons-Switches/dp/B00H8Z3SRM/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1416908109&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=redragon+mouse
$27
http://www.amazon.com/Redragon-Mammoth-Precision-Programmable-Cartridge-Switches/dp/B00GU4F4OM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1416908084&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=redragon+mammoth
$13 http://www.amazon.com/Redragon-M601-CENTROPHORUS-2000-Buttons-Switches/dp/B00HTK1NCS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1416908109&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=redragon+mouse
(im not fond of this because most gamers play around 1800-2500 DPI, so)
What, no Redragon Mammoth? I call bullshit.
ive found a good deal on a mouse and it seems alright
https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-M801-Programmable-Profiles-Switches/dp/B00GU4F4OM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1497993112&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=redragon+mammoth
your thoughts?
I would definitely swing an SSD. At this price range, it would be silly not to have an SSD. (Maybe think about taking money from budget of mouse/windows/RGB RAM/cooler already comes with this CPU).
In my opinion the MSI B450 Tomohawk Mobo is very good in this series. Running it currently myself.
Great mouse under $30:
https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-Programmable-Buttons-Switches-Profiles/dp/B00GU4F4OM/ref=sr_1_9?crid=3NG1NDAPIIZ0Q&amp;keywords=red+dragon+mouse&amp;qid=1558336798&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=Red+dragon+%2Caps%2C203&amp;sr=8-9
Get a gaming mouse with at least 3 easy to use buttons for the thumb. It makes your life 500x easier for kit swapping. I personally use the Redragon M801 Mammoth, but something like the Logitech G602 would also work rather well.
Also take the time to learn every skill in those kits and how they can be used. Condi engineer is very powerful in open world and fractals if you can play it right.
Either this
http://www.amazon.com/Redragon-Mammoth-Precision-Programmable-Cartridge-Switches/dp/B00GU4F4OM
Or this
http://www.amazon.com/Redragon-Perdition-Precision-Programmable-Cartridge-profiles/dp/B00GU8W5AE
Or this http://www.amazon.com/Redragon-Precision-Programmable-programmable-Cartridge/dp/B00GU4F4OM/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1418730821&amp;sr=8-10&amp;keywords=4000+DPI+mouse
Here is the desktop version of your link
Looking For: Claw Grip, at least 4000 DPI, 5+ buttons (preferably right thumb)
Budget: $50
Handedness: Right
Currently Using: Logitech M705 (perfect shape and buttons but not a gaming mouse, way low DPI and polling rate)
Tried: Redragon Mammoth
Details:
I got this awesome Redragon Mammoth for Christmas. For 30 bucks, it's a steal with plenty of buttons and as much as 16400 DPI.
I've never had a gaming mouse before but find 4000 DPI both intuitive and comfortable to use. I could probably move it higher as I acclimate so I'd like to be able to go higher but at this point not a necessity.
The only issue is I use a Claw grip and this is clearly designed for Palm. Over long play sessions it causes my thumb to feel pain/strain since I need to bend it unnaturally to reach the side buttons.
I have to return it, it's causing me physical pain, but I don't know what to replace it with.
EDIT: Some more detail. The M705 has three side buttons (one is actuated by squeezing near the base) and the scroll wheel support left/right tilt. I find the three thumb buttons and the tilt to be quite perfect.
TLDR: I want an M705 with 4000+ DPI and 1000 MHz polling rate.
EDIT2: Based on how active this sub is, I think I just waited too long to post in this thread. Making this it's own thread =)
just got on my pc did some looking how about
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GU8W5AE/ref=twister_B071H7XCPV?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
it has red bits but it technicaly has rgb
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GU4F4OM <added in edit
Right now I have a Redragon Perdition and it works well for me. I think I have pretty big hands but it feels super comfortable and the plastic doesn't feel cheap at all. I'm very fond of this brand after moving on from Razer mice. My Razer mice really only ever lasted me about 6 months but this mouse has lasted me 2 years for about half of the price.
A buddy of mine tried the Redragon Mammoth because he didn't want buttons on the side and he said it's a great mouse for the price and it looks to be about the same size.
I didn't trust this brand at first since their stuff came from China but I've been pleasantly surprised. Good build quality, acceptable software, and tons of features for this price point.
I've got a gaming PC and I mostly use an XBOX One controller. I'm about to get a gaming laptop (really it's mostly for school and work, but I will be gaming on the go quite a bit), and I hate track pads. So I decided instead of buying some cheap-o general purpose wireless mouse, I'd buy some cheap-o gaming intended mouse. I have not yet decided if I should go wired or wireless.
I'm basically looking for cheap, pretty good, and black or black/red to match the laptop, all without looking like a baby Transformer. Looking in the <$30 range. I'll upgrade to a $50+ later if I feel like I get a lot of use out of it.
Here's what I've narrowed my options down to:
Any of these good, or do you have better suggestions?
I have the G502 and just bought this one for my partners build and well I stole it and gave him my g502. He does not game so it really does matter and usually gets my hand me downs. The g502 is nice with little amount of buttons getting in the way.
http://www.amazon.com/Redragon-Mammoth-Programmable-PC-Profiles-Switches/dp/B00GU4F4OM
I play MMOs and it do not want a ton of buttons as I am old school and use my keyboard too, it works actually better for me.
A plus is then you can get you a nice maousepad if you need which is also a must.
best mouse I have ever owned
I have the Redragon Mammoth, and I highly recommend it for people looking to spend less than $30 on a mouse. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GU4F4OM/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_gYqywbRNXFGEC
The mouse is perfect for wider hands, it has 5 different profiles you can switch between, and you can set up 5 or 6 preset DPI settings for as well as different keybindings for each profile... DPI goes up to 16,400, though I'll probably never use it that high. The mouse has a "three click macro button" on the upper left hand side of the left mouse button, and it has three thumb buttons.
I've had this mouse for almost a year now and it's easily surpassed my expectations. I'll never go back to an expensive Razer or Logitech mouse.
https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-M801-Programmable-Profiles-Switches/dp/B00GU4F4OM
I use this mouse and I know it's dirt cheap and not a name brand but don't let that scare you away it's actually really good.
Edit: here is a smaller model
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HTK1NCS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1479511822&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=Red+dragon+mouse&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41BGr8YLbcL&amp;ref=plSrch
So like the problem is moving to do mechanics and constantly be doing my rotations like second nature. So the tip about using mouse for movement to free up my left hand sounds like a good one because doing the whole keyboard moving and trying to click the numbers for moves is hard. So right now I'm using my left hand for moving and right hand mouse hand for moves so maybe that's the problem? I'm using a red dragon mouse cheap but I bought it a while ago and it's been fine: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GU4F4OM/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1474588942&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=red+dragon+mouse&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41Y5FwhINCL&amp;ref=plSrch
Yeah, turning down mouse sensitivity is hugely beneficial. I have a mouse that lets you do it on the fly (a lot of gaming oriented mice do this) and its essential. I turn it down two notches when I play as Ana.
This is the mouse I use if anyone is interested - its less than 30 bucks and works and feels as good as as a $100 dollar Razer mouse in my experience.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GU4F4OM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;th=1
I found this gaming mouse shopping today, would this work out?
My little brother has a Redragon Mammoth and he loves it. A bit short for me but it has a nice weight to it. Redragon has another one called the Perdition that's pretty highly rated as well.
Anker has some good offerings in your price range as well
I'm in Canada, amazon canada has this thing at $221.... that's just slightly cheaper than a keyboard I build myself.
https://www.amazon.ca/Rosewill-Mechanical-Keyboard-Switches-RK-9000V2/dp/B00S5E4KH2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1469325183&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=Rosewill
No frills you say?
Rosewill RK-9000
Rosewill with MX Blue switches: Rosewill Mechanical Gaming Keyboard with Cherry MX Blue Switches (RK-9000V2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S5E4KH2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ePJoxb1TDNBDE
Wonderful typing experience—but it won't have any of the other features you requested except that it's compatible with OS X and Windows, which is going to be the case with every keyboard these days anyway.
Give it a shot! If you really miss those other features you can always return it and upgrade.
If you really don't care for features, and want blues, there's a few options. It really depends how much you want to spend. The KB below are kinda starter/non-enthusiast boards (with maybe the exception of the corsairs), which doesn't mean they're bad, just that they are what most people are looking for (simple, clean, cheap, and sturdy). You could get other boards for around $150 that are a bit fancier, but it sounds like you just want a KB that works.
This is an decent board, but there are better ($139) -
http://www.amazon.com/Das-Keyboard-Professional-Mechanical-DASK3MKPROSIL/dp/B008PFDUW2/
Corsair has some nice boards around this range, but they also have extra features, such as LEDs and media keys. I recommend the K70 over the strafe, but the K70 is out of stock for some options -
$115-130 - http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Gaming-Mechanical-Keyboard-Backlit/dp/B014W1YUAS/
$150 - http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Mechanical-Keyboard-Multicolor-CH-9000120-NA/dp/B014W1YLAM/
CoolerMaster has some really solid boards. I would recommend the CoolerMaster Storm QuickFire Ultimate if you want something that's good but not over the top, and doesn't cost you too much. The CM Storm QuickFire XT is a similar board, but without LEDs.
$108 - http://www.amazon.com/CM-Storm-QuickFire-Ultimate-Mechanical/dp/B00EJ8CKIY/
$98 - http://www.amazon.com/CM-Storm-QuickFire-XT-Mechanical/dp/B00DKXXABK/
Rosewill also has some nice boards, but they're a bit simpler. I recommend the Rosewill Mechanical Gaming Keyboard if you want something real simple and cheaper than most. The Rosewill Apollo is also nice, and has some LEDs if that's what you want
$80 - http://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Mechanical-Keyboard-Switches-RK-9000V2/dp/B00S5E4KH2/
$94/114 - http://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-RK-9100xBBR-Backlit-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B00HA201UK/
Apologies for the lack or order and formatting, and let me know if you have any questions. The biggest thing for keyboards is that you like it though, so make sure you find one that appeals to you!
full standard 104 key (Qwerty) keyboard. i was looking at this one: Rosewill RK-9000V2.
if it had back lighting it would be perfect.
one last one i liked was this one but it had no cherry mx keys Mechanical Eagle Z-88
it has GAOTE keys according to amazon.
Full, I was looking at this Rosewill one I just need something pretty low-key, but definitely need the number pad for spreadsheet work.
im away from my house but its this
Rosewill RK-9000V2 is the keyboard I have, and would recommend (it seems to often be on sale for $80).
The Rosewill rk-9000v2 fluctuates in price between $70 and $90ish. I got one about a month ago for work and I couldn't be happier with it.
https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Mechanical-Keyboard-Switches-RK-9000V2/dp/B00S5E4KH2/
Be careful with blue switches though -- They might be too loud in certain work environments.
If you want new..
RK9000 from Rosewill, freaking solid
I was looking at CM's as they used to be 70-80.. I have a Logitech G710 myself and adore the 6 macro keys, I rarely use the ones on my G402 because of them. It's $85-90, although watch for sales on buildapcsales and such for boards.
GLWB.
https://www.amazon.ca/Cooler-Master-Storm-QuickFire-SGK-4020-GKCL1-US/dp/B00A378L4C/
https://www.amazon.ca/Rosewill-Mechanical-Keyboard-Switches-RK-9000V2/dp/B00S5E4KH2/
Can also consider used items through eBay etc if you have to, just look for clean ones.
Hey sorry for taking so long to respond, I was answering these questions at work and then had to go home, and work today has been much more insane than usual.
Anyway I took a look at the keyboard you linked, everything on amazon seemed legit about it so I didn't find any red flags. I bought a budget mechanical keyboard and the 3 or 4 days I bought it treated me well. The only thing I will say is that if you buy one, take a look at the packaging it comes in.
Mine came in a box with a bunch of manufacturing info from China, including a ton of info about the hazardous elements that they keyboard had "allowable limits by China's standards".
So it performed well, but I'm not getting cancer to save some cash. A lot of the reviews for the one you linked seem to indicate that it's alright though.
If you can live with a lack of a few features (no USB port on the keyboard to allow you to plug stuff into it and save a USB port/have one closer to you, no wrist guard, probably less function keys), then a budget option is a nice inbetween to get the tactile response of the mech keyboard without having to pay the full price.
For reference, I use the mx brown version of this for work:
https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Mechanical-Keyboard-Switches-RK-9000V2/dp/B00S5E4KH2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492126942&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=Rosewill+mx+Brown
It has no backlighting, no USB port, no wrist guard, no macro keys, but I am almost positive I could murder Iron Man with it and then get in a quick match of RL. If you're already not used to having all the fanciness, not having it on a keyboard probably won';t change much for you.
Hope this helps and glad I could be of service!
(Btw I included the Amazon.co.uk link last time cause I figured UK Amazon would be more reflective of the stock available to you if you're using the euro symbol, if not then I can find stuff on US Amazon)
I'm afk right now. But this is it
http://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Mechanical-Keyboard-Switches-RK-9000V2/dp/B00S5E4KH2?th=0,
I would recommend this or this with what ever switch you want.
How about this one? I own the backlit version of it, and it's great! The cable is detachable, but there isn't any routing cutouts.
http://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Mechanical-Keyboard-Switches-RK-9000V2/dp/B00S5E4KH2
Even without a sale you can get cherry keyboards for around $70 anytime.
If you want a cheap nofrills the Rosewill is good.
https://smile.amazon.com/Rosewill-Mechanical-Keyboard-Switches-RK-9000V2/dp/B00S5E4KH2?sa-no-redirect=1
Just pick the style you want, as for keys, that's personal preference.
If you want a Topre there's some Korean ones like the ABKO Hacker
The lowest price Coolermaster mechanical keyboard costs 80 dollars, that goes out of my budget. And for rosewill i found this one: https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Mechanical-Keyboard-Switches-RK-9000V2/dp/B00S5E4KH2/
Is it good? And is it better than the corsair k65?
Just happen to see because im looking for another keyboard, but the Rosewill RK-9000 V2 is on sale on Amazon for $70
Rosewill
Corsair I have this with mx reds and like it. I believe it also comes in mx blue with blue LEDs but couldn't find it on Amazon.ca.
If you want wrist rests look into other Corsair k70 or buy cushion ones separately.
I use the Rosewill RK-9000V2. It is a superb keyboard for under 100$, and it's been doing me good for a while now.
I have this Rosewill and it's great at $80. https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Mechanical-Keyboard-RK-9000V2-BR/dp/B00S5E4LX0/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468263382&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=rosewill+mechanical+keyboard
If you are willing to spend a little more, this is probably the type of thing you really want.
https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Mechanical-Keyboard-RK-9000V2-BR/dp/B00S5E4LX0
Pay attention to which switches you are getting if you work in a shared space. Blues may not be popular with others in the room due to the clicking. I've worked with a typist who made reds loud AF by slamming each key at top speed, and case/caps matter a lot for sound, but the clicks are a love it or hate it thing that I've seen most people keep away from in shared office spaces. If you love it then go for it, just be aware of your surroundings.
I would submit that, as a CS student, a board with programmable firmware and custom layers is a neat project that can help you keep your hands near the home row for less strain over the course of your career, but it can also be a major distraction, so there's no harm in starting off with something simple and plain while you build your skillset.
This is great information. Is this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S5E4LX0/ref=twister_B076K8TZN5?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
close to what I should be looking at?
Hey guys,
I currently live in Canada, the land of expensive PC components, and I'm looking at getting into the world of mechanical keyboards. I'm hoping to spend around $100, and it seems like options might be limited. I would love to get something like the Leopold FC900R but it seems the only retailer that will ship to Canada is mechanicalkeyboards.com and I'm probably looking at over $200 after shipping and currency conversion. My only real requirement is a detachable USB connection (so it can be stored easily) and a full-size number pad.
Would anyone have any recommendations to get my feet wet? I've been looking at this Rosewill keyboard: https://www.amazon.ca/Rosewill-Mechanical-Keyboard-RK-9000V2-BR/dp/B00S5E4LX0/ref=sr_1_18?crid=AFYWZTOVWTXV&keywords=mechanical%2Bkeyboards&qid=1563976704&s=gateway&sprefix=mechanical%2B%2Caps%2C196&sr=8-18&th=1
It seems like a great value, and uses Cherry MX Brown which is seems really solid.
Thoughts??
I wouldnt worry about it. iKBC makes high-quality boards. "Real" cherry switches are no better than many of their competitiors, such as kailh switches and gateron switches, and generally tend to feel worse. If you do a search of this forum (which I strongly recommend, so that you learn more about mech boards in general), you'll find that most serious enthusiasts do not like the feel of cherry switches unless they have modified them in some way - such as taking them apart to apply lube, or swapping them into the housing of one of their competitors. "Real Cherry" is a marketing gimmick, and if this is your only concern, you can save money by getting a "knock-off" board for much less.
As for stabilizers: this is a case of you get what you pay for. Off-the-shelf boards with great stabilizers include: vortex vibe (60% + numpad), and the vortex race (75%, no numpad), but these tend to retail for around $130 USD. Other more expensive brands, such as leopold, have great stabilizers too. Rattly stabs are easy to fix, in any case.
Other brands you might look into: Coolermaster makes solid entry-level full-sized boards, and they have excellent stabilizers, and does the brand Ducky. Rosewill is another option: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00S5E4LX0/ref=s9_acsd_simh_hd_bw_bk38zb_c_x_w?pf_rd_m=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&amp;pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&amp;pf_rd_r=5K7ZA2QY682GE8P8EK93&amp;pf_rd_t=101&amp;pf_rd_p=0717e713-00ea-5675-b7dd-2d1ae0cbad07&amp;pf_rd_i=680461011
Another option still is RedDragon: https://www.amazon.ca/Redragon-KUMARA-Backlit-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B016MAK38U/ref=lp_680461011_1_8?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1523199659&amp;sr=1-8
Cooler Master: https://www.amazon.ca/MasterKeys-Mechanical-Keyboard-Switches-Keycaps/dp/B072C516B9/ref=lp_680461011_1_18?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1523199659&amp;sr=1-18 .
And yes, fees tend to be higher in Canada.
If you are really, truly, concerned, I would spend the time to do some keyword searches in this forum. I dont mean this offensively, but a lot of your concerns are fairly noobish and reading up on what other people say will probably assuage them, and make you feel better about spending money on whatever board you eventually do get (I speak from experience on this). Your keyboard needs are fairly straightforward, so you should be able to get a solid board that meets them without spending more than you want to.
This keyboard normally goes for $82.90 on Amazon. It's still a nice discount but it's not as insane as the ebay pricing would lead you to believe.
Hi! I'm pretty new to the keyboard game and I was wondering if you guys could give me an opinion on some keyboard choices I've chosen. Based on my preferences:
I am looking for suggestions if these aren't worth the price.
DREVO Tyrfing V2 104Key- Otemu Browns
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07FC967M6/?coliid=I3R4H16FQ1NAJC&amp;colid=3P1UZUR6HQHP6&amp;psc=0&amp;ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
HAVIT 104 Keys N-Key Rollover HV-KB395L
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B074QM6F7X/?coliid=I1P95V5VPZPPK7&amp;colid=3P1UZUR6HQHP6&amp;psc=0&amp;ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
I know these are blues, but to me the low profile blue switches doesn't sound too clacky...
Rosewill Mechanical Gaming Keyboard (RK-9000V2 BR)
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00S5E4LX0/?coliid=I1IVYUXIOEAQKO&amp;colid=3P1UZUR6HQHP6&amp;psc=0&amp;ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Not a fan of the keyboard you linked for work use; the Roswell K9000 is more subtle, better yet MK Typist is a much higher quality and versatile board.
To go with the mouse is a good mousepad; I like the SteelSeries 9HD. Another worthwhile investment is a good set of headphones; I prefer studio style over "Beats" or whatever, so I have Audio-Technica ATH-M40x (due to this review) and a DAC (due to the same guy reviewing it).
Not trying to discourage you, what you have is very similar and if it suits your taste then more power to you.
Rosewill RK9000-v2, no frills, inexpensive, no back light, MX switches. I have one at work, 3 years hammering the shit out of it. Great board. Go MX Brown or Clear for a work environment so its not too loud. Could also add rubber dampeners on the key caps if people complain.
If you feel like spending more, DAS keyboard is well respected are built extremely well, but cost double the Rosewill ones do.
In that case, the K65 compact is currently on sale. If you want something full sized, you can get one the of Rosewill boards. There's also the Magicforce, which you can get either backlit or not.
What about this Rosewill for $90?
Rosewill RK-9000V2 or iKBC CD108 plus some O rings. Leopold FC900R if you can increase the budget a bit.
Hey there. I'm looking at the rosewill rk-9000v2, and I'm wondering if the spacebar is standard size. Anyone know?
[Link to keyboard] (https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Mechanical-Keyboard-Switches-RK-9000V2/dp/B00S5E4LX0?th=1&amp;psc=1)
This is the one I have, no led, ps/2 or usb https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S5E4LX0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xvDRCbW5S7908
EEk. I really can't recommend anything sub $50 on amazon except this but I would much rather go with their Gateron switches which runs $62. For other options, I can recommend this sale. It's not the prettiest, but it's a fantastic board for $20 more that will last you forever. These last two although cost more, would actually have resale value if you wanted to put it on ebay or mechmarket.
I picked up a Rosewill RK-9000V2 with brown switches, and I've really enjoyed it so far. I haven't done much gaming on it, but a fair bit of typing so far. I would imagine it'd be great for gaming as well.
As far as mech keyboards go, it's about as non-flashy as you can possibly get. No superfluous lights, no flashy logos or wrist-wrests, and the logo has been specifically de-emphasized for the V2 models.
And you can get one cheap. I think I paid $70 USD on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S5E4LX0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Currently using a Corsair Strafe with MX Silents that I've had for a few years but am really disliking the caps and switch feel. Been looking for a clean, full size PBT board with Brown or Black switch, but really can't settle on something. Backlighting is a bonus if the caps are still PBT. Typing is important, but gaming needs to be accounted for alongside noise, hence the lack of Blues/Greens. Was looking for Gateron switches, but it is difficult to find boards with these for some reason.
Currently been finding some cheap boards like the iKBC CD108 and the Rosewill RK-9000V2 BR, but kind of scared in case quality might not be up to my personal standards. There is also the Cooler Master L boards with PBT options with constantly fluctuating prices.
Any thoughts? Keeping the cost under $100 is preferred. I'm probably going to sell this Corsair board to someone that really wants the gamer aesthetic since I don't care for it.
I bought this one http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S5E4LX0?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00
it was 79.99 to match a newegg flash sale. The browns where sold out so it had a coupon knocking it to 71 (shipped a day later), I like it so far, its quiet but still has good feedback and noise. Not obnoxious but enough. Its heavy as hell for a keyboard which I like. Doesn't move. Like you could easily kill someone with this keyboard, its that heavy.
logitech mice are really good in my experience. I like the g303 but you might not like the shape.
(https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Daedalus-Performance-Gaming-910-004380/dp/B00TKFD51M/ref=s9_simh_gw_g147_i2_r?_encoding=UTF8&amp;fpl=fresh&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_s=&amp;pf_rd_r=JBKH92MJASRMNDCCVN9M&amp;pf_rd_t=36701&amp;pf_rd_p=a6aaf593-1ba4-4f4e-bdcc-0febe090b8ed&amp;pf_rd_i=desktop)
and the Red dragon is cheap and a good mech keyboard (https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-KUMARA-Backlit-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B016MAK38U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484738386&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=reddragon+k552)
You might check out the G303...https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Daedalus-Performance-Gaming-910-004380/dp/B00TKFD51M/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1465548442&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=Logitech+G303
If you're looking for something that's 20 bucks you can find the g100s easily on amazon for 20 dollars or less what we recommend is buying them on amazon then returning them(a few days is usually enough time to figure out if long term usage will give you cramps) and trying another mouse if you're in the United States, Best Buy sometimes has a selection of gaming mice that you can put your hand around.
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-G100s-Optical-Gaming-package/dp/B00SH30V6A?ie=UTF8&amp;*Version*=1&amp;*entries*=0
Sadly, we can't match your usage exactly, reviews and advice are approximations of what /r/mousereview does. You'll have to do some experimentation and figure out what gripstyle you use and how big your hands are.
/u/rocketjumpninja might be able to help you out in the OEM mice department better than any of us.
[Logitech G303]
(https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Daedalus-Performance-Gaming-910-004380/dp/B00TKFD51M/ref=sr_1_1?s=videogames&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468951201&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=g303)
Not sure about the two you listed, but claw with RGB and a hella good sensor sounds like the Logitech G303
https://www.amazon.ca/Logitech-Daedalus-Performance-Gaming-910-004380/dp/B00TKFD51M
Kinda expensive though.
Logitech G303
I had the mouse for over 2 weeks but its not comfortable for me as i use a palm grip. I really wanted to keep it as everything else was simply the best i have ever had in a mouse.
Sensor is the same as in the Proteus G502 which is arguably the best sensor on the market and it felt much better than my current Razer Deathadder Chroma, or any other mice i tried last year (steelseries, func, roccat, zowie. I tried tons extensively). If the G502 wasnt that heavy and "funny" looking i would have gotten it instead of the Adder.
The G303 has specific spring feathered buttons, its difficult to describe but every click feels so damn satisfying and on point. Its the mechanical keyboard of gaming mice imo. ;)
The weight (subjective) and sleeved cable (not stiff) were top notch too, way better built quality than the competition. I didnt really care for the RGB lights and turned them off, same on my Adder.
You should really try it, if Logitech ever builds a G502 shaped mouse that is lighter and has the spring loaded mouse buttons of the G303 i will simply ignore the shitty looks and buy 5 to last me forever.
Edit: Heres a post i found while looking for a proper term to describe the clicky feel of the mouse. On another note, i was over the whole thing and your post just brought the memory and pain back off me not being able to use the G303 comfortably...
http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Daedalus-Performance-Gaming-910-004380/dp/B00TKFD51M -$50
http://www.amazon.com/Programmable-Customizable-Cartridges-Precision-Adjustable/dp/B00G5T1Z5Y -$25
http://www.amazon.com/Redragon-CENTROPHORUS-2000-Gaming-Buttons-Weight-Tuning/dp/B00HTK1NCS -$15
Hope this helps. I have tried all three in the past, and would recommend them for budget and up.
All the top quality gaming mice I can think of have a primarily black shell, but many do have blue lights. The Logitech G303 comes to mind for your price range. If I were you, I would use a resource like the Rocket Jump Ninja YouTube channel and/or his website to find out which mouse would best suit you.
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Mechanical-Keyboard-Backlit-Multicolor/dp/B014W3FGYU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1466053879
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Daedalus-Performance-Gaming-910-004380/dp/B00TKFD51M
https://www.amazon.com/SteelSeries-Heavy-Gaming-Mouse-Black/dp/B000V7ARAU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1466053958&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=qck+heavy
Do not get the Firefly mousepad, yes it has RGB but the quality of it sucks really bad. Stay away from Razer if you can, most people have bad experiences with them. Stick with Logitech / Corsair. Also this Mouse has the best sensor on the market right now, any CSGO player who has used it will recommend it 100 times over, including myself.
FinalMouse 2016 Classic Ergo this is the best mouse after the Tournament Pro (But it's hard to find it) for fps games with 0 Response Delay.
Then the best mouse for your budget is Logitech G303
After going through various mice for FPS games, I cannot recommend anything else but the Logitech g303 Daedalus Apex. This mouse is by far the best I have ever used spanning various DPI modes, a sleek and sturdy design for true competitive accuracy, one of the best sensors on the market and last but not least, RGB lighting. I highly recommend it because not only is it insanely responsive but also lightweight.
You can find it here: https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Daedalus-Performance-Gaming-910-004380/dp/B00TKFD51M/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1517952647&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=logitech+g303+daedalus+apex
Wish you the best of luck in your mice hunting!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-J14fyar5ns
This guy ^ is great for mice.
If you're looking for general purpose, the Logitech G900 is great but pricey depending on where you are. In the UK I can get it for £80 which is pretty good considering it's one of the best mice out there.
For FPS, Zowie FK2 and Logitech G303 are ones to look into. Or a Razer.
Make sure you measure your hand size, the guy above tells you how, and compare to his recommendations. Also identify what your grip type is: palm, finger or claw, as that can matter.
edit: https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Daedalus-Performance-Gaming-910-004380/dp/B00TKFD51M G303 is around your budget.
http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Daedalus-Performance-Edition-910-004380/dp/B00TKFD51M
https://www.amazon.fr/Logitech-Optique-12000DPI-Ambidextre-souris/dp/B00TKFD51M/
you got the idea
It isn't double handed. It's right handed.
Edit:
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Daedalus-Performance-Gaming-910-004380/dp/B00TKFD51M/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1491934422&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=logitech+G302 Notice it has buttons on the left side, meant for using with your thumb. So yeah, not double handed and yes right handed. The pic also make it look like double handed, but it have a subtle curvature fitting right hand.
If you have a fingertip/claw grip I recommend the g303, if you have a palm grip the g502 is more comfortable, they both have the same sensor which is very good
Consider the Logitech G303 Daedalus Apex
Or spend a little more and go for the Zowie EC2-A. It's one of the best FPS mouse out there.
FPS version of this mouse is the G303. shares the same laser as the G502 Proteus, but smaller with less buttons - also on sale https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Daedalus-Performance-Gaming-910-004380/dp/B00TKFD51M
Hi, wired mouse user here because I also play stuff like League, Overwatch, and various other MMOs.
I'm using this mouse atm:
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Daedalus-Performance-Gaming-910-004380/dp/B00TKFD51M/ref=sr_1_1?s=videogames&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480837581&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=g303
It's actually a medium sized mouse so if you have, I guess, average sized hands then here is a good option. This mouse glows up on the logo and on the sides, but if you want to make it change to different colors or have a pulse effect, then you have to download the Logitech program thingy. There are no rubber parts on the mouse, so it is actually quite easy to keep clean. The design is also very neat. You can also customize your DPI if you have downloaded the program, which is actually very useful if you want to keep the same DPI that you are used to with your previous mice. I bought it around 6 months ago after my Razor Deathadder's buttons broke down, and it is still going strong. Currently, it is only $40 on Amazon.
Logitech is the best option for mice. I currently use a Logitech G303 but they aren't sold anymore. What is your budget? Left or right handed?
EDIT: I did a quick search on PC Part Picker: Mice and found the best mouse for the price. Check out this Logitech - G300S Wired Optical Mouse. It's currently on sale for only $24.90 on Amazon and normally sells for $40. I already have two extra mice still in their packages but might have to buy this one now too, as it's a great deal.
I have not touched one of those in probably 15 years so I do not remember exactly the dimensions. one of these should be fairly close?
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Daedalus-Prime-Gaming-Mouse/dp/B00OHJY7C2/
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Daedalus-Performance-Gaming-910-004380/dp/B00TKFD51M/
I use a Logitech G303. It's a smaller mouse and super light. I had tried the Logitech Proteus G502 but it felt too bulky and heavy. Returned it for the cheaper G303 and couldn't be happier. It's on sale for $25 right now on Amazon too. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TKFD51M/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_mDmoyb6QTTCY7
Edit: the G303 has the PMW3366 sensor which I think is the same as the 3360 sensor.
Logitech g303? it tapers towards the back though
edit: meh this shape is more like the inverse of the mouse you asked about, still a good mouse though
Thank you Ambushes!
Shipping cost hurts a bit but still a good deal.
BTW lowest was $50+ tax on Amazon.ca this past week http://ca.camelcamelcamel.com/Logitech-Daedalus-Performance-Gaming-910-004380/product/B00TKFD51M?context=browse
I'll google that for you!
Canadacomputers, Newegg.ca, and some third party sellers on Amazon.ca.
[Logitech 303] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TKFD51M/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00TKFD51M/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1452054032&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=logitech+g303&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=314UDpL3BCL&amp;ref=plSrch
Unique and simple. Similar design to yours. If you can scrape up $50 I highly recommend this mouse. Built for moba player. Not too well known, I'm not sure why.
Can't recommend the http://gaming.logitech.com/en-us/product/gaming-mouse-g303 enough. It's minimalistic, has rave reviews, RGB lighting, stores all settings on the mouse, and has arguably the best sensor on the market hands down. It also benefits claw/finger grip mousing and was designed specifically for it, especially in the context of FPS/TPS gaming (which every game you mentioned is).
Oh, and it's pretty cheap on Amazon. http://amzn.com/B00TKFD51M $49.96 on sale with Prime eligible shipping.
>NASCAR
lol, you can find a half-decent 900 degree wheel on craigslist for less than 100 bucks, i am willing to bet money if you go there and type in "Steering Wheel controller" one will pop up, its where I got mine, also look on local facebook "buy sell or trade" groups,
but if you want a fairly cheap new wheel, heres the current cheapest item on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Force-Feedback-Racing-PlayStation-4/dp/B014US02ZA?th=1
Thanks Price History Bot!
Whatcha got on the following:
Thrustmaster TMX
Logitech g27
Logitech g920
Thrustmaster T150
> r/PSVR
Checkout the Thrustmaster T-150. It's $199 and I've been extremely happy with it. It also works for PS3 & PC.
I think it is. From what I've read the pedals of the G29 are 100x better. I found the G29 for $199 and the best I've found with the Thrustmaster 150 Pro (medal pedals) was $202, the regular t150 with the plastic pedals is $149.
Links:
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/logitech-g29-driving-force-racing-wheel-for-playstation-3-and-playstation-4-black/4223000.p?skuId=4223000
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T150-PRO-Racing-Wheel-PlayStation/dp/B06XP1JZ53?th=1
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Force-Feedback-Racing-PlayStation-4/dp/B014US02ZA?th=1
The cheapest wheel worth getting is probably the Thrustmaster T150. You can typically find them around the $150 range, not sure why they're this high all of the sudden.
I just would wait until you can justify spending that before getting one - like say you want to play Euro a lot, or play some racing games/sims. I just wouldn't bother with a wheel (personally) unless it had force feedback.
The Thrustmaster T150 is going to be the cheapest wheel with force feedback and they are around $200 USD. I wouldn't even bother with a wheel that didn't have force feedback like the Thrustmaster T80.
The top wheels that are PlayStation compatable are the Thrustmaster T300 which is on sale right now for $300 or the Logitech G29 which is around $350
http://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Force-Feedback-Racing-PlayStation-4/dp/B014US02ZA/ref=sr_1_1?s=videogames&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458511342&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=ps4+force+feedback+wheel
Works with PC has force feedback and pedals
I use this wheel
It isn't horrifically expensive, and it's probably the best cheap (ish) wheel you can buy
For me, force feedback is an absolute must, it makes driving so much more immersive. You could find a decent wheel for cheaper, but it won't have force feedback.
Thanks for the PSA. I was going to buy this Thrustmaster T150 Force Feedback Racing Wheel for $77.99 from a just launched seller from the UK until I saw this. The racing wheel normally goes for $200 but is on sale for $129.99, so I had my doubts but his unresponsive to my message and this post helps clear things out.
Thrustmaster VG T150
Thrustmaster T150
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Force-Feedback-Racing-PlayStation-4/dp/B014US02ZA
They're currently out of stock, but they were in stock a day or so ago. I feel your pain about spending. I've looked everywhere for a reasonably priced one. Just be glad you're not in Canada, that T150 is almost $300. I've used the DFGT before. It's a good wheel, but apparently this one is better
I miss a few bucks and i dont know how long the sale will last. But i found this one
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Force-Feedback-Racing-PlayStation-4/dp/B014US02ZA
is this good too?
YO! If you are looking to get in to the T300 still, amazon has the T300RS basic edition listed incorrectly under the T150 right now, which makes it $211 w/tax shipped! Just ordered one!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014US02ZA/
https://www.joinhoney.com/shop/amazon/p/B014US02ZA/Thrustmaster-T150-RS-Racing-Wheel#price-history
Ok Thanks. Looks like the Alcantara Bundle is around $500 at the moment. I guess i'll have to wait till it's on sale
This is the one I bought and I am loving it so far. It is basically plug and play. Even before I calibrated it was working fine.
>https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B015KJ0SES/ref=cm\_sw\_r\_cp\_api\_i\_6dUbDbS92W13B
Hey I have problem now with my G29. IF it starts it will shut down after like 20 seconds. then after another 5 seconds it will calibrate itself and then the circle continues.. Hopefully I have similar success with the Logitech support..
Hi there I have already ordered this wheel and should be here in 3 weeks due to the hurricanes I live in the Caribbean so this has to reach Miami where the skybox company is located in order to be shipped to me. So you are saying I don't need anyting else? well I ordered the gearbox also so its $600 so far I spent.
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T300-Ferrari-Alcantara-Racing-Wheel/dp/B015KJ0SES/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504832461&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=thrustmaster+t300
Current deal is expired, but Amazon still has it up for $300, is out of stock but you can reserve the price and they will ship when it comes back in stock: https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T300-Ferrari-Alcantara-Racing-Wheel/dp/B015KJ0SES/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482040263&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=t300+alcantara
Whoops wrong link https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T300-Ferrari-Alcantara-Racing-Wheel/dp/B015KJ0SES/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481485408&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=t300
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T300RS-Officially-Licensed-Feedback-Racing/dp/B015KJ0SES/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1479783267&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=300rs&amp;th=1
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T300RS-Officially-Licensed-Feedback-Racing/dp/B015KJ0SES/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1479783267&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=300rs&amp;th=1
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-VG-T3PA-PRO-3-Pedal-Add-Set/dp/B00UVN21IU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1479783305&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=T3PA
I believe it is, but it is not as strong as say the T300. The other negative is you can't replace the wheel with other thrustmaster wheels.
The T300 offers 1080 degrees of rotation and the TX offers 900. If 900 degrees is enough for you, you could try this maybe?
You could upgrade the wheel if you want in the future or if you want a better wheel to start you could go with this.
I'd personally go with the first option since you get the shifter and better pedal set. There are plenty of options to go with though. I see a lot of people suggest fanatec pedals. I have the T3PA pedals and they work great for me. Hope this helps let me know if you have any questions.
I definitely think you could get a quality wheel for $300. The nice thing about Thrustmaster is that you can buy them from other retailers, such as Amazon, Walmart, Gamestop, Best Buy, etc.
I know I was watching this T300 w/ Alcantara because it fell to $300 in December of 2016. Similarly, this TX w/ leather wheel dropped to $300 in November 2016.
If you can, I would reccomend buying a Team Wolf TKL. It has hot swappable switches, and comes with Outemu blues installed. Only downside is that it has SMD LEDs, and the colours are pretty crazy.
ninja edit: it's on amazon
In terms of Cherry MX switches for an absolute beginner -
For gaming you want a linear switch for faster click registration and easier key presses. (Cherry MX Red)
For typing you want a clicky, tactile switch so you can feel the key presses and possibly make less mistakes. (Cherry MX Blue)
Cherry MX Browns are usually the middle-ground and preference for people who don't like the loudness or the full tactility of the Blues, but still want some tactility over the linear Reds. It does well for both typing and gaming.
Different manufacturers (Cherry, Kailh, ALPS, Zealios, etc) will sometimes call their switches different colors but the consistent factors are usually tactile, linear, or clicky. It can seem kind of crazy at first with all the different names but as long as you can recognize the base type of switch that you want, everything else will follow pretty easily.
The second common factor is switch weight, this is very much subject to personal preference so I would highly suggest trying some sample switches first but even then it doesn't really compare to using a board full of them. For my own personal experience I've tried all different kinds of weights and while I like the feel of heavy switches a lot, I don't think that they hold up to extended periods of use unless you reaaally like heavy switches. They can be tiring on your fingers and it's not something I think most people would enjoy powering through. There's not really any benefit to going heavier other than your own personal enjoyment so if you feel like it would take getting used to, I would just go with the regular weight switches.
If you're wondering why Kailh in particular, the switches that they make are very similar to Cherry MX's but they're smoother and just feel so much better than their Cherry MX counterpart (Most Kailh switches are named the same as the Cherry MX versions). They also have a new-ish version of their switches called the BOX and all you really have to know about the BOX vs regular is that the BOX's just feel smoother than the already smoother regular Kailh switches.
If you're going to be gaming and typing I would go with the Kailh BOX Browns, it's the same thing as the Burnt Oranges just not so heavy. :
https://novelkeys.xyz/products/kailh-box-switches
Please also be aware that you can't hot-swap switches in the KBparadise V80 and if you get the Kailh's you either have to solder them into a board or buy a hot-swappable board.
This Team Wolf Zhuque board, although not the prettiest with the lights on, is really well built and the metal casing really makes a difference in how your keys feel. It is hot-swappable meaning you can just use the included tool or tweezer out the switches and swap them to whatever you want.
https://www.amazon.com/Team-Wolf-Swappable-Mechanical-Keyboard-Blue/dp/B01AFBJQA8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1538166099&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=team+wolf+zhuque
The only other hot-swap board on the market I'm aware of is the twice as expensive and half as built Glorious PC Gaming Race board. It looks nicer and it's full RGB but the plastic housing feels very cheap compared to the Zhuque.
To sum it up real quick, if you're going with KBparadise V80 go with Cherry MX Brown. If you're going with the Kailh BOX Browns get the Team Wolf Zhuque.
tldr; get an HHKB
For ten bucks more you can buy a board that lets you switch out the switches whenever you want. Want gateron blues? Last I checked a full set would run you $40. I wouldn't recommend that since it comes with chinese blues, but gateron browns etc. Cheaper than buying a new keyboard and you can buy gateron switches.
https://www.amazon.com/Team-Wolf-Swappable-Mechanical-Keyboard-Blue/dp/B01AFBJQA8/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1536614179&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=zhuque
I can't comment on the quality, but I've only found this.
EDIT: Some comments on quality: https://redd.it/446x6t, https://redd.it/3urwhn
I have a cheap Teamwolf Zhuque+ (decided to be cautious with my first mech keyboard purchase).
Question: when I'm shopping for keycaps, what kind of descriptors should I be looking for to know that I'm buying the right size keycaps?
Thanks in advance!
I've used the Glorious PC Gaming Race Modular Keyboard and it does the job well. The other popular hot-swappable keyboard is the Team Wolf ZHUQUE though the switches it comes with aren't as good as the Gateron switches in the GPCGR Modular Keyboard.
Not exactly what you're looking for, but Team Wolf ZhuQue fits your price range. Plus, Outemu Blue switches are included! It's a pre-built and it's not 70% (it's tenkeyless), but it has hot swappable switches!
Note: The Amazon Q&A indicates the hot swappable feature should be compatible with most (any?) mx-style switch, but the LEDs might not work with some switches.
NP I got u, US site
It's the white key caps tho
I hear ya. In that case, you could go for something like the Zhuque, and snag a pile of switches to swap out the stock ones. If you're willing to try out Gateron Greens, you could get enough to cover the board for ~$30. Dunno, just an idea.
>under $50
mechanical
with features that many way more expensive boards lack
I know only 2 that are reasonable, Teamwolf Zhuque and E-element
Well, within this price bracket all you'll find will probably be rebranded chinese knockoffs anyways
That's what I would think, but the fact that this feature is usually found on cheap gamer brands like this one tell me otherwise. Surely I'm missing something.
Yeah that board has a different hotswap pin in it so it works with a larger variety of switches. If you're looking for an option that will give you the same functionality, this one is a bit ugly but it uses the same tech as PCMR
If you're looking for a cheap board with hot swappable switches check out Team Wolf.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AFBJQA8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xoSVzb6GJXJR3
I think you're looking for this.
They have authorize distributor at USA. it is now available for sale at Amazon
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AFBJQA8?keywords=teamwolf&amp;qid=1456876977&amp;ref_=sr_1_1&amp;sr=8-1
check this out.
thanks
This one?