(Part 2) Best pet supplies according to redditors

Emphasis on the dog comment. My dog sits in the front passenger seat. About a year ago, I was almost in a collision thanks to an incident where someone ran a red light and I had to swerve and stop suddenly to avoid them. My seatbelt kept me secure but my poor dog smacked his face on the glove compartment pretty hard. Now I secure him with a seatbelt at all times. Here is the link to the one I purchased — it’s also quite useful w/ regard to preventing the dog from jumping out the window.

I use a puppy seatbelt. It’s a super short leash (dog seatbelt) that clips to the dog harness (NOT collar). And then the car’s seatbelt loops through the short leash. It keeps the pup safe and off your lap.

Vastar 2 Packs Adjustable Pet Dog Cat Car Seat Belt Safety Leads Vehicle Seatbelt Harness, Made from Nylon Fabric https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014W40TSW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.NhACbA0HZJV2

Confession: I bought my cats a fountain so they always have a supply of moving water. They really seem to love it!

Aww. Glad they were so generous about it.

Here's some unsolicited chewing dog advice. Take it or leave it.

With a dog that loves to chew, here's a few recommendations and a blog that is really great for hyper / anxious / chewy dogs. Goes without saying if you're already doing these things then keep on keeping on.

1. change all meals to puzzle toys like the tug jug and the wobbler. Make them work and think for their food
   
   https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Buddy-Dispensing-Medium-Large/dp/B000KV7ZGQ
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003ALMW0M/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493834636&sr=8-1&keywords=kong+wobbler
   
   
2. more exercise and consider adding a backpack like the outward hound or ruff wear. Use filled Nalgene bottles for weight for an excellent doggy workout.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B2KAACK/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1493834678&sr=1-3&keywords=ruffwear
   
   
   
3. More training. A trained dog is a confident happy dog. Do a new trick a month. Join a class. Etc.
   
   All this is a recipe for a less chewy dog. If they're tired both mentally and physically and are confident, unwanted behaviors like chewing and barking generally decrease.
   
   Here's the blog - 3lostdogs (dot) com

get some enzymatic pet stain remover. Its designed for the job. https://www.amazon.com/Rocco-Roxie-Supply-Co-Professional/dp/B00CKFL93K

http://www.amazon.com/Petego-Walky-Hands-Free-Bicycle-Leash/dp/B003OYIAW4 Something like this maybe?

Ssscat. Although the replacement canisters are kind of expensive, I recently found out that the top is fairly universal and apparently you can just use compressed air from Staples or something. We have gotten to the point that we don't even need it on our counters anymore, and mostly use it if we want to keep the kitties out of a room temporarily, we just set it outside, and they stay away without scratching at the door. We usually don't even turn it on anymore.

The thing that causes this behavior is that he is a working breed dog who is extremely energetic. You basically described almost every lab I have ever trained. His owners need to give him a lot more mental and physical stimulation.

Since he is a lab, a chuck it ball thrower would be a great way to play fetch. A flirt pole is another really great toy for tiring dogs out.

For mental stimulation, mealtimes are a perfect opportunity. Have them get either a Bob-A-Lot or a Kong Wobbler for daily feeding and get rid of his food bowl. I recommend the Bob-A-Lot because you can make it easier or harder. This gives him ~10 extra minutes of brain work every day and you don't have to do anything extra.

Then basic obedience and chew/puzzle toys (kong marathon ball, nobbly nubbly, squirrel dude) will also help.

It's actually an loud air can on a motion sensor.

https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Deterrent-Activated-Repellent-Environmentally/dp/B0721735K9/

The tank looks like a 2.5 gal. So here's a list of some inexpensive things you can grab to make him love his new home even more!:

• Sponge Filter very cheap and does its job well. You may need to buy a small air pump for it though, so maybe $5 more.
  
• Heater, however if you have the means to afford one that can be adjusted, I recommend this one I'm using this one for all of my tank.
  
• Thermometer to see if the heater works properly.
  
  If you get all of these from the links it should run you somewhere around $20.

Former veterinary nurse here. Everything you said is on point. As far as regular kitty maintenance, I cannot recommend a Litter Genie enough. It's definitely sold me on the concept, and if I ever have any babies, I'll definitely get one for them.

I will say though that timed feedings are a great idea if your cat will tolerate it, mostly because you end up knowing exactly how much kitty is eating. One of the first things to go when a cat is feeling unwell is their appetite, and they're notorious for masking symptoms until it's gotten bad. My sister has a cat in end-stage FIV right now for that very reason.

Oh, OP, by the way? If kitty is going to go outside AT ALL, you MUST do two things: parasite prevention and a microchip/FIV vaccine combo. Revolution is my personal favorite parasite prevention, as it's a monthly does and handles heartworms (yes, cats can get them), fleas, ticks, and most intestinal parasites. You have a ton of options, though. As for the FIV vaccine... Feline immunodeficiency virus behaves similarly to HIV/AIDS in humans. It's passed on through saliva, usually from deep bite wounds, as opposed to sharing a water bowl, but there is still some risk there. (This is probably how my sister's cat acquired the infection, as she spends a lot of time outside and has an ultra-nemesis cat that lives nearby.) The vaccine is effective, but it can cause a false positive result on a blood test. The only real solution is to have your kitty microchipped, which IMHO is something all kitties should have done. Here's the imaginary scenario which plays out all too often: Kitty is vaccinated for FIV but doesn't have a chip, gets picked up by animal control, get tested for FIV, and shows a false positive. Any cat that comes in the door with a positive FIV result is likely to be euthanized. However, the first thing anyone does these days is check for a microchip. If it's established that this cat has an owner, the medical workup will continue, but they can't just euthanize your cat anymore. It sucks and it sounds harsh, but it's the same thing as a puppy coming in with parvovirus.

As far as the rest of basic kitty care, a water fountain is definitely an excellent idea. We have one for our two cats and they L O V E it. It's cute and didn't cost very much, either. Here's a link: Catit Flower Fountain https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0146QXOB0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_MWVmzbNH28CMW

This sounds ridiculous, but my cats learned to love their scratching posts because we would scratch them together. If one of them ever started to scratch the furniture, I'd go over to the Correct Scratcher™ and mimic scratching it, and they'd go bonkers running over to do it with me. It's pretty cute, tbh.

I find these to work great for the price, you just need to keep them close, 1-3" away.

strip lights

or bulbs in reflector clamp lamps or in a desk lamp

Now slowly plant some real plants in the back over time like java ferns and it would look amazing. I love your design. Do you have a heater? If you live somewhere cold you’ll want to get your buddy one of those before the winter comes. https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-Submersible-Aquarium-Electronic-Thermostat/dp/B000OQO69Q?keywords=5+gallon+heater&qid=1538425836&sr=8-3&ref=mp_s_a_1_3
I have this one in both my tanks and I like the way it works. If you need any help or advice I’m here. I’m still learning myself but I can try to answer.

Dog puzzle feeders.
My dog gets his dinner from toys everyday. I rotate between OurPets IQ Puzzle Ball, Kong Wobbler, Magic Mushroom, and Tug a Jug, since those are the slowest dispensing as well as easiest to fill. I also have a load of other ones but found them to be too easy for him (One minute to empty Buster Cube on "hardest" difficulty vs average 20 minutes from the toys I mentioned). I used them everyday for about 5 to 6 years and never had to replace them.( Then again, my dog is not much of a chewer of hard plastic.) My dog LOVES getting his food from toys to the point of actually almost refusing to eat while giving me a very sad disappointed face when I just put it in his bowl. He has fun and they tire him out (he is panting after every meal). Win for me.

Check out this thing I used from Amazon! I have a climbing, chatty tortie who LOVED placing her ass directly on my dish towels/dishes and this fixed it.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0721735K9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xB3WDbTCKET80

I know warnings are like a broken record every time someone posts a picture of their new high maintenance breed puppy but here it goes anyways.

1. Aussies need a job. Get into some kind of sport. If you don't have time / money for special classes at least look into getting a Walky Dog to help burn of some energy. And don't forget to the Booties to protect the feetsies
   
   
2. Running / Walking will help burn energy but Aussies are smart. They need a lot of mental stimuli to keep them from getting bored and destroying your life.
   
   
3. Aussies tend to bond strongly to their own families and are generally wary of strangers. Proper socialization with other people and dogs is incredibly important.

Get one of these bad boys. Now THIS works like a charm. I can step over it if I don't want to open the gate, but it keeps the dog out while my cat can walk through fine. To me, 40 bucks is totally worth keeping my carpet and bed free from dog hair.

Carlson Extra Wide Walk Through Pet Gate with Small Pet Door, Includes 4-Inch Extension Kit, Pressure Mount Kit and Wall Mount Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JJDI0G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.Na0DbHG3A4FF

Strongly recommend getting these off amazon. I have 2 for my dogs. I attach them to their harnesses that they wear whenever we go for car rides. People think it will never happen to them but all it takes is one time. My wife was skeptical but I told her, with how much we love our dogs, how devastated we would be if something were to happen to them that we could prevent

Get her this

http://www.amazon.com/Sunny-Seat-Window-Cat-Bed/dp/B005AUM8U0

When my Doberman was between 1 and 3 years old, I had a Walky Dog on my bike and we'd go on rides multiple days a week. It was the perfect way for her to release her energy. She absolutely loved it and still gets excited when she sees a bike to this day. My only words of advice is to be mindful of the wear and tear running on concrete can do to joints. My girl is 10 now and has arthritis and leg tremors that's being treated with Gabapentin and Tramadol.

Oh Lordy I have a ton...I'll try to categorize them...

Best for Puppies
These are all easy toys that dispense a lot of kibble with very little movement. Perfect for baby puppies or really low-confidence dogs. These can also be upgraded in difficulty later by stuffing them with wet food and freezing, or stuffing with a large, hard to extract treat (like a slice of lunchmeat).

• PetSafe Busy Buddy Twist 'n Treat...total pain in the ass to fill if you put more than half a cup of food in it, but it's a great "intro to puzzle toys" for a dog that has never had to work for food before. Also very easy to clean.
  
• Soda Pup Coffee Cup...representative of a whole genre of "rubber toys with large holes" that make great easy kibble toys or challenging stuff and freeze toys. Some other toys in this genre are the Kong and the West Paw Toppl. I like the Soda Pup ones best because they have higher capacity and a flat bottom.
  
• Planet Dog Orbee Tuff Snoop...pretty easy by itself with kibble, can be made more challenging by stuffing a Mazee ball in the large hole.
  
• Plastic Milk Jug...or a water bottle, raid your recycling bin. You'll have to supervise to make sure your puppy doesn't shred and eat the jug, but it's a relatively easy and fun (and free) enrichment item. Another puzzle toy you may find in your recycling bin is a cardboard box filled with paper balls. Sprinkle some treats in the box, fill with the balls, and let your dog forage around in your DIY ball pit.
  
  Easy Rollers
  These basically just dispense kibble by rolling. Not particularly complex, but good for the dog that prefers to solve puzzles by brute force.
  
  
• IQ Treat Ball...this toy takes the longest to empty out of all my toys, but it is way too freaking small and loud as hell on my hardwood at 6am. Really easy to fill and clean though, as it comes completely apart.
  
• Omega Paw Tricky Treat Ball...a lot quieter but it empties faster and isn't as easy to fill (or clean).
  
• Kruuse Buster Cube...this one is also ungodly loud, but it takes a good while to empty despite the fairly consistent payoff per roll. It's a cube (but they also make a spherical one) and the insides have a few baffles to keep kibble from just falling out.
  
  Wobblers
  These require a more finessed rolling motion to empty, so they're the next step up from just batting a toy around.
  
  
• PetSafe Busy Buddy Kibble Nibble...more of a wobbler/roller hybrid. Surprisingly time-consuming for how huge the holes are, and it gets an A+ for filling and cleaning. Unfortunately my GSD knows how to unscrew it, so it's not much of a challenge for him.
  
• Starmark Bob-A-Lot...lots of ways to adjust the difficulty on this one, which is nice. I had a foster chew the yellow piece off of mine, but it still works well.
  
• Kong Wobbler...pretty standard toy, I actually do not have one of these but I know a lot of people that like them. They're available at big box pet stores which is nice.
  
• Nina Ottosson Pyramid...very similar to the Kong Wobbler, but the hole is in a more difficult location. Good toy but the bottom could use more counterweighting for the wobble action.
  
• PetSafe Busy Buddy Magic Mushroom...really good wobble action, but for some reason it's common for dogs to try and chuck this one down the stairs and break it. I've heard of a few dogs doing this, including my GSD. I have no idea what about this toy screams "fling me down the stairs!"
  
  Complex Action Toys
  These need movement in more than one direction (or very specific movement) to get kibble out of, which makes them pretty challenging.
  
  
• PetSafe Busy Buddy Tug-a-Jug...this toy is hard to learn but easy to master. Once your dog figures out the mechanism it doesn't last long. Also that rope gets SUPER GROSS.
  
• Nina Ottosson Board Games...I don't personally have any of these because my dogs cannot be trusted with small parts, but I've heard people say good things about them.
  
• Trixie Mad Scientist...this toy is cool because the dog has to learn to spin the tubes slowly or centripetal acceleration holds the food in. Good exercise in impulse control. I had a DIY one for awhile but my dogs decided to brute force this toy.
  
  Soothing, Low Energy Toys
  Along with the stuff n' freeze toys, these are good for dogs on crate rest or who need some extra help relaxing before bed.
  
  
• Snuffle Mat...great toy for activating a dog's foraging instincts and calming their minds. This is a good DIY project, or you can get extra lazy and chuck a bunch of food into the grass for nature's puzzle toy.
  
• HyperPet Lickimat...my cats eat their wet food from the orange kind ("buddy"), and my dogs use the green kind ("soother") with some PB or cheese as a distraction during grooming. You can spread a thin layer of something tasty on them and freeze for a long-lasting treat that promotes the calming behavior of licking.
  
  
  My dogs (and cats!) eat all their food out of puzzles so I am constantly on the lookout for new challenges! I'd be happy to provide more details on any of the toys I have, or buy and review any toys people have been wondering about :)
  EDIT: btw this Jackson Galaxy Asteroid is my favorite cat puzzle toy. They really need to make one for dogs because it is kinda quirky with its bounciness and super quiet.

Beautiful fish, but you said the plants were plastic. If you aren't careful bettas might cut their fins on the plastic plants. I highly reccomend some silk plants, or even better, live ones! Live plants really bring the tank alive.

I have a five gallon tank, and I use [this] (http://www.amazon.com/Hydor-Submersible-Glass-Aquarium-Heater/dp/B0006JLPG8/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1462643179&sr=8- 12&keywords=betta+fish+heater) heater. You'll want a way to get the temperature like a floating or suction cup thermometer.

I never know if posts like these are troll posts or not. I'm assuming that by having to confidence to post a picture of your fish, you've at least browsed through other people's posts and seen the proper conditions that a betta fish should be kept in.


I'm really hoping that either this is a troll post, or that you just have no idea that the conditions you've kept your fish in are borderline inhumane. :/ He has horrible fin rot, and is missing the whole top part of his fins. Before you come back with "but he's been with us for FOUR years, he must be okay!" I can keep a dog in a closet for years with food and water and he'd probably live a long time too. Ever heard about that woman who was kidnapped and kept in confinement for 18 years? A being's conditions won't kill them immediately, but the stresses of their environments will cause them to lead miserable lives.


In case you care about him, he needs a few (super, SUPER easy) things.

• A bigger tank. ASAP. At least 2.5 gallons, but 5 is better and only a couple dollars more at petco. 5 gallon tanks are about $15 at Petco.
  
  
• A heater for that bigger tank. Bettas are tropical fish and they NEED warmer temps. 76-80 degrees. A decent heater (I use the Hydor Theo 25 watt heater) will set you back $18.
  
  
• A filter. You can find many of these for a decent price, but for small tanks I prefer the Aqueon Quietflow Internal Power Filter. These are roughly $20.
  
  
  The total cost of getting your friend an ideal setup is about $53. You'll notice a huge difference in the behavior of your betta, and he'll be much happier. I can't stress this enough; he is not happy, and your friend of 4 years deserves better. This post was NOT made in anger, but rather in concern for you and your fish. Please take this advice, and remember to cycle the tank!
  
  

Oster Sunny Seat Window-Mounted... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005AUM8U0?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

She loves it! It’s her favorite spot in the apartment.

I’ve purchased these little things that sense motion and spray air to keep mine from jumping on a table where he was constantly knocking down a lamp! He jumped up maybe twice, was sprayed with air, and has never jumped up on the table again since! link

I believe Air Wick makes them you can buy them almost anywhere. Drug stores, grocery stores, Wal-mart, Target, etc.
**
EDIT: There is an actual item made for the sole purpose of repelling pets. It's called a Ssscat

I strongly recommend this

http://www.amazon.com/Pet-Odor-Eliminator-Urine-Cleaner/dp/B00CKFL93K/ref=pd_bia_nav_t_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=17B1P1TPSC8PK1YH5B0V

My rabbits peed in a spot of carpet and rabbit pee is notoriously difficult to remove but this somehow managed to get it out weeks after the fact. Hope it helps!

I have designated morning toys for mine so I don't disturb my downstairs neighbor. Syd gets the quiet ones in the morning and the louder ones at night. I like to feed her breakfast in the omega ball or the tug-a-jug (only to be used on the carpet--how quiet this is might depend on the dog). The Orbee tuff is good too, but doesn't fit her whole meal. My dog will also chew through a rawhide in no time, nylabones can be a good alternative.

Out of curiosity, how is he playing with the kong that makes noise? Throwing it on the ground? That's what mine does, she'll grab it and toss it in the air so that it comes down with a thud.

I bike with my dog and use this bike attachment, this harness and also [this] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002IJQDC/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) for her paws. She loves it. Here's some pics.

oh, he is so cute!!! I let mine sit up front in my lap when he was tiny and now he always tries to sit up front, even though he is way too big.

There is a great little seat belt for dogs that clips onto their harness and into the seat belt itself. Great for car rides and gives them enough room to stick their head out the window.

https://www.amazon.com/Oster-Sunny-Window-Mounted-Pounds-034264445611/dp/B005AUM8U0

It's very kind of you to not just let him die! If you get him spiffed up you may be able to find someone who likes fish to take him in, so you don't end up feeling burdened...

but in the meanwhile, there is some basic stuff you can do. If your measurements are correct, then he's probably in a 2 1/2 or 3 gallon aquarium, which while not the best, will certainly suffice. This means the main things you'll need are a filter and a heater.

It would also be nice if you got him some stuff to hide in, so he doesn't stress. They make aquarium decorations, but a clean, well rinsed ceramic coffee mug or unpainted terra cotta planter will do the trick for cheap.

By the way, can you post the name of the water conditioner that you found in the tube? It will help me be able to figure out if it's a dechlorinator or not, which is the most important thing.

Also, does the tank have a lid? Bettas will jump out of water, especially if the water quality is bad.

Anyway, there is plenty of inexpsensive, decent equipment for a tank that size:

I personally happen to like this filter for a tank that size, and it's very easy to install/maintain.

Here's a nice little heater that's worked very well for me. You'd want to maintain his water between 75 and 80 degrees, so it's always a good idea to have a thermometer to make sure the heater is doing its job properly.

From there, maintenance is pretty easy. Feed him just 3 or so of those little food pebbles a day, and once a week give him some of the bloodworms for variety. The main thing is to not overfeed, because they have very small tummies.

Once a week, change out about 25% of his water, and rinse out your filter pads with old aquarium water if they need it. They make little syphons especially for this, because the suction they create helps you vacuum poo out of the substrate.

Price of owning kitten: $60 to buy includes all shots

flushable litter: $34 for 32 lbs at local shop; last for 4 months (called worlds best litter: http://www.worldsbestcatlitter.com/ ) This is the best litter you can get. Trust me on that; plus you can flush it and it won't go bad over time like others.

food: Evo cat food $35 for 15 lbs at local pet shop. Feed 1/4 cup twice a day. This will last 2 months according to food regulation. Note: you shouldn't let your cat gorge, it will get fat and poop alot so regulating it will make poop duty easier and save you money on litter and food. I recommend this because it has very little grain which is why the cat doesn't have to eat much. It's also as healthy as it gets, so you save money in the long run vs friskies or something.

Litter box: top entry Top entry causes the cat not to make a mess using the litter (when it kicks it up)

I'd go with an adult cat for your first so you don't have to deal with the kitten phase plus usually they are already housebroken. So all in all its actually affordable if you can commit to it.

We actually got this gate Pet Gate before we had our baby. We got it to stop our puppy from eating the cat food (which gave her diarrhea) and also to keep her from trying to eat cat turds. I used some masking tape on the little door connected to the opening so that it's not wide open, just open enough for the cats to get through. Wide open it would swing and seemed dangerous for our ankles! Cats happy, dog can't get to bad things and now it's absolutely perfect with our baby. She can't get through the opening and can't get to the bad stuff either!!

Hi! I have two of these.
They’re only $15 and hold up to 50lbs. They’re super sturdy! My boys are around 12-13lbs each and every frequently I’ll find them both cuddled up on one. See? :)

If you want to forbid your cat from going somewhere then its important that its not you who tells him no. It has to be the environment. Either by using aluminum foil or double sided tape for a while or a motion detection air blast: https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Deterrent-Activated-Repellent-Environmentally/dp/B0721735K9 (although this one is really expensive, there should be much cheaper ones somewhere!)

The reason why NO, and sprays and stuff like that dont work is that it only teaches them that they are not allowed to do it in front of you or when they feel like they can "defy" you. If the environment is telling them no, it just isnt possible. And dont worry, usually a cat learns that pretty quickly so the foil or the repellant isnt necessary for too long.

(Jackson Galaxy teaches us that if you want a cat to not do something, then you also have to provide them an alternative. Maybe a Cattree in the kitchen where they can observe you cooking?)

To the morning thing: Are you sure that you were completely ignoring him? You have to ignore him for up to 2 weeks. And by ignoring I mean really ignore. No going to the toilet when he wakes you up. No noises. No nothing. It will get worse before it gets better. Believe me. You just have to go through it.

Try a Sscat outside the door. It’s motion activated canned air. It’ll spray little kitty if she gets too close to the door. We only turn ours on when the door is closed and the cats have quickly learned that door open means come in, door closed means go away.

https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Deterrent-Activated-Repellent-Environmentally/dp/B0721735K9/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=sscat+sprayer&qid=1573404070&sprefix=sscat&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzSzU1RDRCSUcxQ1Q3JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwODc5MTQ0M01LUk1aOTNERlFOQSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMDQwMjgxMlFYVTlPSUpON1VDRSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX3Bob25lX3NlYXJjaF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

Yes! I use these two:

https://www.chewy.com/drinkwell-multi-tier-pet-fountain/dp/48096



https://www.amazon.com/Catit-43742-Flower-Fountain/dp/B0146QXOB0/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1500244627&sr=1-2&keywords=catit+flower+fountain

Keeping your cat hydrated is important for their health.

If anyone else has a cat with a similar preference I would suggest getting a cat fountain which will make the water run.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0146QXOB0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I recommend this bad boy:

https://www.amazon.com/Hydor-Submersible-Glass-Aquarium-Heater/dp/B0006JLPG8/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=hydor+theo&qid=1566856882&s=gateway&sr=8-1

​

Heating such a small tank is difficult and you run a lot of risk of over-heating using heaters that aren't adjustable and/or don't have thermostats. This little one should be small enough to fit in the tank, is a reliable good brand, and with the flexibility of being able to adjust accordingly you should be able to get better, more consistent heating. Just make sure you're carefully monitoring the temperature with a reliable thermometer and checking it periodically throughout the day to make sure your heater is working correctly and you have it on just the right setting!

Also get ready for comments about decor, filtration, and upgrading. The recommended minimum on this sub is 5 gallons. I won't get onto you for the size, though if you plan on keeping this tank as his permanent home you will want to consider a few more live plants, popping in a sponge filter, and reading up on the nitrogen cycle if you haven't already. Small tanks like this are tricky and require a lot of upkeep, but it is doable with the right equipment, lots of live plants, and enough knowledge......though if you're a less experienced aquarist you may want to consider an upgrade to something easier to cycle and manage for yourself. Good luck!

Turquoise cutie <3 She looks a lot like a betta I had a few years back. Signs of yours being a girl: chubbier shape, shorter fins, egg spot (salt-speck on her belly).

The gender isn't always known, especially on the baby bettas. Someone takes a quick look and decides "boy" or "girl". One of my current ones was labeled "girl" but "her" fins started growing long, and his beard started growing out, and he started getting upset at every little thing...

Now that your question is answered, on to something more important.

This can be a passionate and sometimes hostile environment, but everyone else is spot-on - your fish would be happier in a bigger home. Let me tell you my personal experience. I've kept betta in bowls and I've kept betta in aquariums, and I can tell you that a betta in an aquarium is like an entirely different animal. They get so beautiful and develop so much personality when they're given a better space. A larger, filtered aquarium reduces maintenance for you, too. My two tanks get maybe 15 minute of maintenance each per week, with just one partial water change during the week, and they both stay sparkling clean. /r/plantedtank and /r/nanotank can show you just how much a nicely-kept aquarium can contribute to your home decor as well!

Pet stores will tell you that a quart of water changed once a week is fine, but that's because they can make ten times as many $30 sales of bowl, decor, and fish as they can $80 sales of tank, decor, heater, and fish. Also, they'd love to see you in again in a few month's time to buy another fish. :(

/r/bettafish has a great care sheet with some advice. To start you out with, I have this tank and it's fairly cheap and super sleek. Add an $18 heater from Amazon and transfer the decor over from your present tank and you'll be money. Bigger is better if you can swing it, but if you're on a budget or don't have much room, 3.7 gallons will make a nice studio apartment for your fishy friend. There are store-brand 10 gallon setups that are even cheaper (Walmart's Aqua Culture, Petsmart's Top Fin/Grrreat Choice) and you can often find used ones for cheap or even free if you look around on Craigslist/Offerup/Letgo/etc., go to garage sales, or look at thrift stores.

congratz !! :D

Our siberian favorite toy is this one
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B075SZCLZR/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

He absolutely LOVES it, he hides, he plays, he plots against us in there, the wrinkly sound make it super fun for him, and it's extremely robust couldn't find a single tear even with him putting is claw through it.

for a cat tree, it's better that you invest more money in a basic one, than paying for a cheap huge tree, siberian are BIG cats that LOVES to climb and jump and he will throw himself on it and you don't want an accident happening. Molyy and friends does amazing tree, we bought this one
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000OSIJA6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It think he would have love one that his higher than this one but they get pricier, He's spending 80% of his time on it. the top bunk is his bed, he love to run and jump through the loop, playing pick a boo in there, and it comes with the scratching post that is high enough for him to stretch plainly.

this brush is a must have, not a choice YOU NEED IT, Siberian need good brushing often to avoid painful matted fur, get him use to being brush EVERYWHERE very young (especially the butt, and under his "armpits")
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0040QS3PO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Best laser toy ever. you don't have to keep your finger on the button for it to work, it's super bright, and the cat will recognized the toy when he sees it before of it's bright color. we just need to say " Gaspachio wanna play ?" and show him the paws and he starts puring and getting ready to hunt. Make sure to train him to play with laser when he's young by rewarding it at the end of a session with a treat and making him stop on toy (so he has the feeling for catching something) after a few month he will have understand that the red dot CANNOT be catch, it's just fun to run after, and you won't have any mental issue with the cat.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B074Q2YK3L/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This window bed is super strong, at first we though he didn't like it because we didn't saw him on it, then we realized he's always on it during the day when we're not home. And when we start pulling the curtain over it he starts going even more often since it's an "hidden place"
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B005AUM8U0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Absolutely NEVER feed you cat with crap cheap brand, if you can afford a 1k cat you can afford good food and treat for it. and brush his teeth regularly.

Also, plenty of soft hugs <3

I was determined this weekend to find a better litter box solution, and I have the satisfaction of having done so. It's magical. I recommended it yesterday but I feel so strongly about it I'm doing it again. This is the litter box in question.

They should pay me to advertise, because I am passionate about this product.

I think I get a half day tomorrow as compensation for staying late last week. Fuck yeah.

You need to add ammonia, which is what the bacteria eat and process basically. Live animals produce ammonia through their waste, but we dont want to subject those animals to toxic ammonia levels.

We use fish food or pure ammonia instead, I ordered a bottle of Dr. Tims ammonia from amazon and use it when I cycle my tanks.

You can test your ammonia levels with a test kit, API freshwater master test kit is a decent kit, strips are another option but they’re harder to read and its very easy to get an inaccurate reading. You need a test kit to know when its safe to add animals.

Here’s some links/stuff that may help,

Info -

Nitrogen Cycle: https://fishlab.com/nitrogen-cycle/

Fishless Cycling: https://www.buildyouraquarium.com/how-to-fishless-cycle/

Supplies -

API Freshwater Master Test Kit 800-Test Freshwater Aquarium Water master Test Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cEpvDb8R85Q1K

DrTim's Aquatics - Ammonium... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006MP4QG6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

(Ammonia, aka food source for bacteria during cycling. I prefer this instead of using the fish food method because easier to dose and less messy. It’s around 2-3 drops per gallon to get to around 2-3ppm ammonia)

Note: Never replace your filter media unless you absolutely need to (like if it’s breaking down or contaminated or something). It can be cleaned with old tank water once a month or when needed. Just swish it around or squeeze it in the water and it should be good to go! After the tank is cycled, weekly water changes of 15-25% using a gravel vacuum would be sufficient - but this also depends on how big your tank is and what you keep in it as well. So it may vary.

If it is from Pet stains from the previous owners or something use this

It works very well. A cat of mine was having some health problems and stopped using the litter box. We used this and you can't smell it at all now.

Their intelligence is what leads to lots of their behavior issues. You gotta exercise that brain too.

Have a look at these toys. They have been great for our cattle dogs over the years. They tend to eat too fast so these tend to be food/game focused.

https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Buddy-Dispensing-Medium-Large/dp/B000KV7ZGQ

https://www.amazon.com/OurPets-Smarter-Interactive-Treat-Colors/dp/B003ARUKTG/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1480272473&sr=1-1&keywords=dog+food+puzzle

https://www.amazon.com/Outward-Hound-Hide-Interactive-Puzzle/dp/B0043A71PU/ref=sr_1_15?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1480272473&sr=1-15&keywords=dog+food+puzzle

I love the above one but one of our dogs is too smart for it. She picks up the covers with her mouth and sets them aside. when she eats all she can reach she tends to turn it over to dump it out.

I'm super impressed with the bell to go out. We haven't been able to get ours to do that.

Hey all

Thanks to this sub and after a ton of research here and elsewhere, I finally got my first planted/aquascaped tank set up. This is an update to my hardscape post HERE

You’ll notice that I got a different rimless tank. I wasn’t happy with the number of stocking options a 5g tank was going to limit me to, so I found a slightly larger (and $$$) option. Also, now I’ve got an extra tank laying >:) I’m super stoked with how it turned out but I might setup CO2 in the future to get it to really pop. I’ll put specs for the tank below since I always find that helpful from other posters. Almost everything was bought through Amazon (since North America sucks for aquascaping materials):

Tank: Landen 10.7 Gallon Rimless

Light: Fluval Planted 3.0 Nano LED (Petsmart purchase)

Filter: Penn Plax Cascade 500

Lily Pipes: JARDLI Glass Lily Pipe

Heater: Tetra Submersible Heater 50W

Substrate: Fluval Stratum (Petco purchase)

Inert Substrate: Carib Sea ACS05839 Super Natural

Some kind of rock from my LFS, spider wood

Ferts:
Seachem Excel: .75ml every morning before the lights come on / Seachem Flourish: .75 ml twice a week

8 hours of light/day

Plants (sorry, I don’t know Latin names, and I’m lazy):
Java Fern, Anubias (of varying kinds), Java Moss, Christmas Moss, Dwarf Hair Grass, Micro Chain Sword, Crypts, Subulata (?) (the tall grassy one in the back right)

Livestock:
1 Dwarf Gourami, 5 Ember Tetras, 1 Otocinclus, 2 Ghost Shrimp (if they haven’t gotten eaten yet)

I have 2 puppies right now. One is very much like tax, the other is very calm and relaxed.
He's probably bored and needs to get rid of energy. You could walk him around your house on a leash, that would get him better used to the leash and you being a leader, also gives him something to do and releases energy. Make sure he's paying attention to you while you do it.
Make sure he has plenty of toys and things to do. The best toy to keep my 2 occupied has been this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000KV7ZGQ?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd

You can fill it with treats or food and they have to work at getting it out

3 years ago I got my husky, and suddenly theres husky puppies popping up all over the neighborhood. Please know what your getting into with a Husky. They need at least 1 hour of full mental and physical exercise each day... simply expecting them to be a house-dog is just cruel to this particular breed.

Me? I have him pull a 3 wheeled trike in winter, a bike in autumn/spring, walks in summer, all 45 minutes long. One hour dog-park visits on weekends. Daily combing, 30 minutes of toy play every day I get home from work. He's broke two of these (never buying them again) and we've resorted to having simple heavy duty industrial bungee cords and a heavy duty harness.

Even after 3 years I don't understand him. He doesn't care for fetch, or understand the point of tug-of-war, he just looks at you funny when you throw something. He's crazy smart (knows how to open kitchen drawers, twist the front door knob, and knows how to unlock the gate to get into the living room).

My dog was in a fire at 6 weeks old when his parents & 5 brothers/sisters died... and has had severe territorial aggression (disturbed while sleeping can result in a deep bite to your foot or arm) issues we've never been able to address (even with behavioralists and medication). He's a big fan routines though.. which is great because I suck at them so we help each other out.

All in all, a husky is a lot of work, it's a relationship built on respect rather than "I am the master, you are the pet." You get an amazing friend that is beyond just being a dog. Huskies are independent, have strong personalities, and can tell when your having a stressful day so they'll always be there for you when you need them.

No problem! All of us here love betta fish, we really want to help.

Treated tapwater will be much cheaper in the long run, because you should be changing out a portion of his water weekly for fresh treated water. I recommend Seachem Prime as a water conditioner, it's the board favourite around here and the good thing about it is that it converts ammonia (produced from fish waste and anything else decomposing in the tank, is toxic to fish) into a harmless form for 24 hours. Since you do not have the Nitrogen cycle established in your tank, this property will be very useful in keeping your fish comfortable while the cycle gets started.

Here is a list of affordable supplies:

Aqueon 10 gal tank, $15. I would highly recommend going for the 10 gallon tank. Aside from the fact that it's the same price as the 2.5 gal so cost is no issue, the water conditions will be far more stable in a larger tank. In a very small tank, it will take only a small amount of ammonia produced before the water becomes toxic for the fish (they are literally swimming in and breathing in their own waste, after all). You have a lot more leeway the bigger your tank is, because the ammonia will be more diluted. A larger tank, once you have it set up and cycled, is a lot less work than a smaller one.

Aqueon Quietflow Filter, $14. I replaced the filter cartridges inside this unit with ceramic filter media (gives nitrifying good bacteria a place to grow for biological filtration) and Seachem Purigen (absorbs organic waste) along with a good chunk of filter floss (way cheaper than buying filter pads) to make it more effective, but it's not strictly necessary if you're on a budget.

Hydor Theo Submersible Glass Heater, $15. This is my favourite heater, I've set up five tanks so far using this model. It heats up well, holds the temperature steady automatically, and it's adjustable, so if you ever need to turn up the temperature (sometimes needed to treat illness), you're all set.

Seachem Prime, $5

API Master Testing Kit, $19. This is extremely helpful to have when setting up your tank, so you can test the ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels in your water. All three are toxic to fish in high quantities, in order of most to least bad.

5.5 gallon tank from petco - 12 dollars (or if you can go today 10 gallon for 10 dollars plus tax)

Heater - 12 to 15 dollars (I like this one but there is also this one here)

Filter - 13 dollars to 25 dollars (It may need baffled or This one though it's a bit more expensive but I prefer it just remember a filter is just something to push water through it. Also can look into sponge filters)

Substrate - 0 for bare bottom or 10 dollars for some cheap sand at petco This sand to be exact.

Light - 42 dollars This is what I'd buy but you can find cheaper or just do grow lights in little plug ins

I'd keep at least 30 for plants but you can get some cheaper live plants or maybe find some cuttings for free.

Total is 47 dollars for a proper set up not including plants since I don't know what you can do in your area. With my over priced light for your set up it's 89

We got this one to block off the kitchen while still letting our cats in and out. It works pretty well, although the baby has just hit the sweet spot where he's mobile enough to climb through the pet door and just small enough to fit through it. Depending on how young and spry your cats are, they might be able to jump over a regular gate (my chubby cat definitely can't).

My lil guy (Cheeto) had UTIs and the vet said he had to go on a specific diet and be forced pills to help and he would have to go on that diet for life. Well 3 weeks later and after all the pills and diet change he wasn't any better, but we noticed that he wasn't really drinking and he wasn't eating as much wet food, especially with the new diet which was all hard food. Got the following water fountains and all our cats love them (3 different cats, but only the one had UTI problems).

https://www.amazon.com/Catit-Flower-Fountain-Drinking-Triple-Action/dp/B0146QXOB0

https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-Pet-Stainless-Fountain-Raindrop/dp/B0037NKDSG/

https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Drinkwell-Platinum-Water-Fountain/dp/B000L3XYZ4/

Take your pick on water fountain, one cat each has a favorite!

I have this for our cats and they absolutely love it! I recommend keeping a small bowl of water somewhere until you're sure your cat is drinking from the fountain, but it didn't take long for mine to learn. Plus I only have to fill it up maybe once a week, and that's with multiple cats. No mess, no gross water, and the cats love it.

A lot of cats will, because many prefer running water over still water. All cats are different, though! My oldest (15yrs) wants water from still bowls, but the other two won't drink from anything that's not bubbling. Here's a link to the most recent one I bought (it has the easiest setup and cleanup of the three I have in the house) https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0146QXOB0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If the dog is a wrong fit for your family, don't feel obligated to keep her.

But, if you do want to work with her, there are a few things that I'd suggest based on your post:

1. A harness instead of a collar for walks so she doesn't choke herself. I recommend [this one] (https://www.amazon.com/Ruffwear-Front-Harness-X-Large-Pacific/dp/B01M3U4G66/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1479411295&sr=8-4&keywords=ruffwear+front+range+harness)
   
   
2. A seatbelt for the car. I know it sounds stupid but my dog is a nightmare in the car and for $7 this completely solved that problem.
   
   
3. Trips to the dog park or anywhere off-leash she can run. Play-dates with other dogs. Heelers and border collies are super high energy and while I understand you haven't been able to walk her because of her energy level, she's definitely this crazy because she hasn't gotten enough exercise.

• Upgrade your lighting. That penetration is not going to cut it.
  
  
  • Here is a cheap solution: NICREW
    
    
  • Here is a more expensive solution...I have had terrible results with any lighting that does not contain sufficient bulbs in the Red 660nm light spectrum. Unfortunately it is what plants love but can only be found in higher-end lights: Finnex Planted+
    
    
• Get your lights on a timer asap and include a siesta in the middle. Algae hates consistency and live plants love it. For example, I run my lights from 7am-1pm and then from 5pm-9pm. The break in the middle helps combat algae and allows CO2 to build up naturally.
  
  
• Invest in some nutrients. The most expensive but easiest to use products would be Seachem Flourish and Seachem Flourish Trace. A MUCH less expensive and more effective alternative is the EI dosing method which envolves using dry nutrients. You will need a scale if you choose the EI route.
  
  
• Like others have said, invest in some plant-friendly substrate. SubstrateSource is my favorite
  
  If you don't do these things the plants should still probably live...but they wont thrive. And there is a high chance they will die. You don't want to waste all that money you just invested in the plants :).
  
  Good luck!
  
  Here is my swamp

Hey Phantomsgf! I also have a fluval tank and man those filters are strong! I hunted around for ages and I found a really easy, really cheap solution: buy a pre-filter sponge and pop it onto the filter output. Make sure, of course, that the filter motor is at the lowest setting, but even that is too strong for a betta. You really need the sponge.

If you're having trouble with the filter intake, which are the vertical cuts in the plastic, I guess you could put some mesh over it to, again, slow down the flow. I don't have my betta yet so I'm not sure if this will be a problem.

You might also want to get a thermometer and verify your water's temperature. If it's always about 100 degrees inside your house, even at night, then yes, I'd believe that the water is warm enough for your little guy. But it has to be really really really hot to keep a fish tank at 80 degrees.

As for cycling, you're basically going to have to do a lot of water changes really often. My instinct, which is amateur, says to do 50% a day every day. I also learned from experience that you should let water sit for a while to warm up before putting it in the tank or the temperature drops like crazy.

You can check out products like this that claim to add the bacteria to your tank that eat fish waste. Do they work or is it a myth? I don't know. But for tiny tiny tanks like the fluval you have, you will definitely need a water dropper that can measure a tenth of a millimeter to put this stuff in your tank.

Anyway. Those are my tips. And when you do get a heater, you can fit it where the filter output plastic tube is! So cool!

Oh: look at this leaf. So cute.

We have a couple at our house, and they work really well even with our less than skinny cats.

Try this stuff - it's amazing.

Catit Flower Fountain

i have one for my cat, only the slightly cheaper model

I bought these that fit on my aquaclears..http://smile.amazon.com/Pre-Filter-Sponge-Pack-Fluval-Aquarium/dp/B004K9A15G/ref=sr_1_3?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1425919054&sr=1-3&keywords=fluval+prefilter. They work well and I always catch my shrimp eating off them.

Hey! Vet student/cat owner here. /u/ads215 has already answered a lot of your questions, but hopefully I can provide a bit more info on others!

Regarding vomiting: it's true that some cats vomit regularly (though usually not as much as 1-2x per week) BUT there could be an underlying cause, too. Is there always heaving with the vomiting? How digested is the food? It could be because of eating too fast (you can get dishes that help with that, or try something like this), or it could be a sign of disease.

My cat poops 1-2x per day. Again, your cat having a bowel movement only every few days might be normal for her, or it could be disease-related.

As for separation anxiety, it is seen much more often in dogs. Cats are really good at entertaining themselves. Like the other poster said, toys, windows, even little twist ties are great ways to keep your cat busy and active during the day. (Side note: to keep it fun, have "sets" of toys that you switch out periodically. Makes it seem like brand new toys every few weeks!)

I have a Sunny Seat for my cat in the window which he LOVES, he's either there or on top of his scratching post most of the time. Which leads me to another thing - do you have a scratching post for her? It's a behavioural need for cats to scratch, and if they don't have something appropriate to do it on, you can expect other things to get shredded.

Also, her breath - normal cat breath definitely exists, but it can also be a sign of dental disease.

Overall, most of my points go to the same conclusion: I think it would be of great benefit for both of you to visit a veterinarian for a wellness check. You can bring all of these issues forward to the vet, and they can check out the cat physically and figure out if they're normal or concerning. Not only that, but you can also talk to them about looking into pet insurance, which, in my experience with bengals, every owner should have. They tend to need a little extra veterinary care.

It was really awesome of you to take in this cat! I hope that she's with you for a long time, I can see that you're having fun with her!

Shameless plug for the best catbox in the world.

Cats are like people. There's always the RISK you won't get along. But if you treat them with respect they will generally eventually warm up to you. It's all about trust. It may take a while but one day you'll wake up and they'll be purring on your chest and you'll be like "what the fuck changed".

If you want to try cat ownership without the risk of getting stuck with a bad roommate, try fostering one. If you guys turn out to be compatible, adopt the little bugger!

Edit: Additionally, litter boxes are probably the biggest downside of cat ownership, but https://www.amazon.com/Omega-Paw-Self-Cleaning-Litter-Pewter/dp/B005E2S77C this litter box I've found is an engineering marvel that has made dealing with stinky kitty poopies super easy.

Beautiful dog.

Do you use one of the enzyme sprays on the spot she peed? That sounds a lot like territory marking which can turn into a cycle/habit if you don't completely kill the smell (including smells you can't smell).

This stuff is awesome if you haven't been:

https://www.amazon.com/Rocco-Roxie-Supply-Co-Professional/dp/B00CKFL93K/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=484GBW13MWTD&keywords=dog+pee+spray&qid=1556117378&s=gateway&sprefix=dog+pee+spry%2Caps%2C172&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

Have you tried an enzyme cleaner and just let it sit? It might need to really get down to the floor boards to work. Covering up urine smell is really just a band-aid.

https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Strength-Stain-Odor-Eliminator/dp/B00CKFL93K

And are you sure it's just your cats that have done this? Did the apartment have air fresheners when you moved in it?

It’s a Hydor 25W. I’ve got no problems keeping it at 78F. I keep my house at 70F in the winter and it’s been fine.


Hydor 25W Submersible Glass Aquarium Heater - Original Theo https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006JLPG8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_JouwGeQvRRrUk

Depends on how much you can spend, but I really like this tank for a 3gallon tank. It's attractive, reasonably priced, real glass, and it comes with the filter and a light that is strong enough to grow the lower light easy plants that are popular in betta tanks (anubias, java fern/moss, marimo balls, whatever)

You will also need a heater, unless you live somewhere where the ambient temp where you keep the tank is going to be in the mid to high 70s year round. It is kind of tough to heat a tank as small as 3gallons without overheating, but I have had really good luck with this heater. Its the smallest heater with a thermostat ive found, so it will turn itself off when it reaches the desired temp. Bettas are tropical fish and will do best with their water around 78 to 80 degrees.

Easiest way to change the water is going to be buying a siphon, or just a ~3' long piece of fountain tubing from the hardware store, and using it as a siphon, and then pouring clean, treated water back in with.. whatever thing you wanna use to pour water in your tank :P

Carlson Extra Wide Walk Through Gate with Pet Door, 29 to 44-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JJDI0G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_PZSSoOT53cYw6

Bought this one and it's great-- high quality and my small dog has no problems going through.

Beagles are not a violent breed, so you are safe for the most part. Where the playful friction gets to hissing and scratching is that beagles like to corner their prey and bay at it. Cats hate loud noises and being cornered, so this generally ends with the cat doing a face scratch. I have declawed cats (adopted that way), so this cycle repeats every few days. The one time we watched a clawed cat for friends, this was over quite quickly.

Also, consider a pet gate like this. Small door lets cats through but blocks dogs, very good escape hatch/tool to keep dog out of the garbage. Handle lets you through easy, great investment even without cats.

That's where you're wrong, kiddo

Seriously, we have 5 cats and just bought two of these. They work and it seems like they don't associate the spray with the object so once you remove it from the forbidden area, they still don't want to go back after it gets them a couple times. It's working on all of them.

It seems a little mean but all it does is startle them. And I like that I don't have to yell at them.

XD There we go, jealous babe but a smart babe. He knows when you'll be without your kid and is excited for it. Kudos to Pidgey for figuring it out but he's definitely too strong about his mommy time.

Seeing the picture puts more context into it too, I swear, Siamese cats are a different creature sometimes!

Is the main issue the fact that he wakes you up too early or the attention? There are different options for both.

One, which may help the situation as a whole, is promoting plenty of time with both Pidgey and the baby. Hold the baby and play with Pidgey, use special toys, or offer special treats.

The more he associates your new babe with positivity the better. He'll begin to enjoy time when you're with the baby more (because more fun comes of it) and will feel that attention meter filling up. That's the first approach I would suggest. It will take time but it's a good, lasting, fix.

As your child grows let them be the one to set down the food for the cats, should problems persist. Positive reinforcement is the best thing to use with a cat, unlike a dog 'no' isn't often going to help. Not because they don't understand it but ANY attention is good attention to a cat.

The second option is to get a motion activated spray canister https://smile.amazon.com/PetSafe-Deterrent-Activated-Repellent-Environmentally/dp/B0721735K9/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1550332210&sr=8-3&keywords=motion+air+cat+deterrent A touch expensive but they should learn fast. The key here is that the can does the work, he doesn't see YOU giving the punishment. That means that the door becomes the bad place not you. Another key for training cats. You could also use a can of keyboard cleaner and spray it yourself but this would be more consistent and far enough away from the bed that it shouldn't bother baby.

Both options can be used in tandem as well for faster results but I always suggest going for one method at a time. That way, if there are any behavioral issues stemming from a fix you know which fix caused it.

Food dispensing toys will likely slow him down further, and also provide mental stimulation.


I use the tug-a-jug for meals and it works great for my dogs. Depending on kibble size only a few pieces come out at a time.

You can also feed meals by doing training exercises and using kibble as the reward. Again this also has the added benefit of keeping the dog mentally stimulated.

Regarding High quality good, there are so many options out there. I use Taste of the Wild brand, but in the past I've also fed my dogs Blue Buffalo(Stopped because it didn't agree with my dogs stomach) and Costco brand dog food( Kirkland wild domain salmon recipe) There are a lot of good quality foods out there, just avoid brands that use a lot of fillers like Beneful, Ol' Roy, and other dirt cheap foods.

• You can hand feed/use meal times as training times. This is the recommended approach for any puppy. If your pup LOVES food he will likely work very hard to earn it. You can integrate some clicker training and work on basic skills like name/attention, sit, down, and leash skills.
  
  
• Use puzzle toys that will require him to think will FORCE him to slow down. IQ balls are fantastic for this! You can also stuff and freeze kongs with a bit of dry kibble + wet food and/or peanut only peanut butter. There are a variety of different puzzle toys out there (kong wobbler, buster cube, tug a jug, etc) - but the IQ ball was the only one that was really challenging enough for our dog not to 'game' the system. YMMV
  
  
• Feed smaller portions of food more often. Feed 5 or 6 meals instead of 2 or 3 more frequently throughout the day. Keep using your feeding tools - or you can use something like a muffin pan and cover the holes with tennis balls.
  
  Many puppies will do this as a matter of habit/necessity. They used to compete with their siblings for food so they had to eat fast and aggressively or they got nothing. Hand feeding is fantastic on so many levels - it teaches your dog that good things come from YOU not the magic bowl on the floor, gives you an opportunity to curb resource guarding in regards to food/the food bowl, allows you to work on training which is critical at this age and, most importantly, will slow your pup down!

You can feed him exclusively through food dispensing toys which will help occupy him and drain some energy. I'd pick up a couple different ones like this and rotate their use. See the recommendations below that, most of those toys are pretty good. The Bob A Lot is nice because you can put a decent amount of Kibble in before you have to refill. For hard puzzles, there's one called the Tug-A-Jug which lasts a long time. Freeze creamy stuff or wet food in Kongs to make them last a bit longer. If you can find a type of bone he really likes, keep a bunch in stock; chewing can be great for tiring him out.

And like other posters have suggested, practicing a little training every day will make a difference. Teach new tricks or mix in some basic obedience cues with a game of fetch or tug, using the toy as the reward.

Get a bike and a walky or similar attachment. It has a shock absorbing system so that if your dog runs ahead or jerks you, you won't fall over. Chances are you'll eat it at least once. This is the best way to exercise a dog that doesn't have much toy drive, it's pretty common for Siberians to have minimal interest in toys in my experience.

You can also do things like get a dog backpack and put water bottles in it on your walks (work up to it). You can also teach her how to pull weight (a tire, for example). Siberians are born to run and pull, exploit that drive and I guarantee you will have a much easier time with her.

Wow my heart broke and also grew reading all this. Thank you so much for giving Pepe Le Pew (loved his name!) such a happy life. Roland sounds like he’s very happy with you and I’m so glad to hear he’s got such a loving parent! It takes a beautiful heart to want to do what you’re doing, and I think it’s just amazing. My condolences again friend.

If you don’t mind me asking, how do your cats drink water? I learned that cats don’t drink water often like dogs, and to help prevent kidney issues it’s recommended to get a cat fountain. They are pretty cheap, and I have noticed my cats drink SO MUCH more water now. You can find the one I use here

I prefer this one. Catit Flower Fountain https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0146QXOB0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_BbDJzbYYCVG53

A water fountain that circulates the water might help so that she can see the water moving. It seems like that would address why she is drawn to it after she sees it refilled.

I've had a good experience with this one.

If you're worried he's not getting enough water, this may help! my cat is in love with his water fountain.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014W40TSW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Are you referring to a latch like this?

Sure! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0191EWII2

I got an answer for this! I too noticed a while back my cat loved drinking from the sink more than his bowl, and it turns out almost everyone who has a cat has the same issue!

So after some researching it turns out that cats are not fully domesticated (this is why they have such a strong need to hunt) and because of this they don’t drink water the same way dogs do.

A cat won’t want to drink water from a bowl, however if a cat hears running water it’ll kick start their instincts (just like when a cat sees a bird, something inside them clicks) and they’ll want to drink as much water as they can.

Without the sound of running water, a cat will get most of its water from wet food, because they will only drink when they are very thirsty. This is why it’s so common for cats to get kidney and bladder problems.

The best thing you can do is get a fountain for your cat.

There are some on amazon that very affordable, I use the catit water filter. I like it’s design and the way it uses it’s filters. You can also use it without filters, but if you make sure to clean out the water more often. Like once every day or so.

You’ll also have to keep an eye on the fountain, they’ll need to be cleaned often because if it it can get mold.

It’s a little bit more work, but it’s a HUGE difference. My cats drink so much water, it even reduced the stench of their urine.

Please consider doing this for your cat, and spreading the awareness. This alone can make your cat live so much longer and healthier.

cat fountain that I use

I got a fountain and it really seems to pump up the amount of water my cats drink. My water isn't too hard, so I don't have to deal with build up, but the only problem with mine is cleaning the middle part of it, but that isn't a big problem, all you need is a bottle brush. It's also great for seniors since they don't have to go down as far.

Yea, most bolws with flowing water will do it. I like this one though, personal favorite, because its customizable for your cats preference. Its the one I have for my little dude. It's just a bit pricey.

Catit Flower Fountain https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0146QXOB0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_QgEJzbH45NY16

I suggest the Catit fountain, extremely easy to clean and doesn't cost an arm & a leg. I bought it for $19.99 a year ago and I'd buy it for the $24.99 it is now. There's a new model that is exactly the same but comes with a flower attachment which makes streams as if the water is coming out of a faucet.

You should invest in some of these. They have saved my dog's face from the dashboard many times.

sure!

the usual method if you dont have a lamp handy is to just buy one of these. can be repositioned all over the place!

for powerful bulbs, 2-4 feet depending on plant size and fragility.

for other kinds of setups, you could look into T5 fixtures, that's like the standard florescent tube you've seen anywhere. these can be kind of ugly though...

There's been lots of topics about small lights such as decent clamp lights etc. I myself have posted a topic here. Make sure to use the search bar!

Quick answer:

• Simple desk clamp light with a good CFL lightbulb in it.

We’ve been keeping the cats out of the bedroom. One of them is super clingy and the only thing that keeps him from howling outside the door is this. Our youngest cat practically tries to smother me at night so there’s no way we can allow them to be unsurpervised around the baby. I do feel really guilty for the cats, especially our old cat, but unfortunately it’s necessary,

I would personally start making the transition sooner rather than later. Having a baby show up is going to be a major change for the cat as it is. I wouldn’t wait until the baby is there to start keeping the cat out.

There's a product out there by PetSafe called Ssscat that's simply a motion-activated can of compressed air. It sounds like a really big cat hissing. After a couple uses, my cats avoid wherever it is, thus I don't even need to turn it on anymore.

On top of speakers (can barely see it):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073VRR92F/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Behind speakers:
https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Deterrent-Activated-Repellent-Environmentally/dp/B0721735K9/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1536369076&sr=1-1&keywords=scat

Draped over speaker so he doesn't stand on speaker and bat the blinds over and over and over:
https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-ScatMat-Training-Medium-inches/dp/B0009MZ1L2/ref=sr_1_9?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1536369124&sr=1-9&keywords=shock+mat

It definitely looks like fin damage, not fin rot. The damage is more thin and narrow than I would expect to see with fin biting. For now I would recommend putting a sponge over the filter intake (something like this). I have also successfully made sponge intake protectors by sewing sponge together with fishing line... but I'm weird like that.

At the very least this will help you rule out damage from the filter.

For some reason I think it said up to 25 pounds, and it was labelled for small dogs as well, so you might be good.
Edit: I was wrong, it up to 50 pounds! https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005AUM8U0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493664401&sr=8-1&keywords=sunny+window+seat+for+cats

We got a litter box that you literally flip over and empty the clumps. No scooping required!! I think it's this one https://www.amazon.com/Omega-Paw-Self-Cleaning-Litter-Pewter/dp/B005E2S77C

I like that idea, though, for me, I dreaded cleaning the box, tried automatic ones, which sucked, and then found the Omega Paw http://www.amazon.com/Omega-Paw-Self-Cleaning-Litter-Pewter/dp/B005E2S77C worked flawlessly, cleaned the box daily, great box for the lazy. I did have to periodically have to take it apart and hose it out...

You should not start out using any PH regulating chemicals. Especially so in such a small water volume. What's your PH from the tap? PH crashes will reset your cycling. I don't know exactly how neutral regulator works but it could be stalling your cycle. Have you tested your tap water before using a conditioner? Check it for ammonia, you might have chlorimines to deal with. This will make cycling take longer.

Too much ammonia can stunt the growth of your bacteria. do a 50% water change and get it down to 2ppm. Then get this: https://www.amazon.com/DrTims-Aquatics-Ammonium-Chloride-Solution/dp/B006MP4QG6/ref=sr_1_9?crid=3BZ1CMMNFZIB7&keywords=ammonium+chloride&qid=1572890565&sprefix=ammonium%2Caps%2C146&sr=8-9

Dose your tank back up to 2ppm ammonia once it's consumed, Once you start seeing Nitrite then you know your cycle is going


Are you testing with strips or a drop kit?

Get that pothos plant out of there, it's not aquatic and it's polluting your water. Most people stick them in the HOB filter so only the roots are immersed.

I am using Dr Tim’s ammonia chloride here. It has dosing instructions to reach a specific concentration of ammonia. That being said, I am still working on processing nitrite and the tank has been cycling for about a month so be patient with it. Hope this helps!

What kind of look are you going for?

You could probably perch one of those cone-shaped aluminum work lights on top, but it will have an industrial look.

Something like this, but used without the clamp.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001KDVY42/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?qid=1463959589&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=clamp+light+10+inch&dpPl=1&dpID=41hFYMDpfcL&ref=plSrch

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B7PJHU6/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1463959589&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=clamp+light+10+inch&dpPl=1&dpID=51ivgMwycLL&ref=plSrch

I'm not sure how that would work long-term with moisture, and you'd have to set it up in a way that it wouldn't fall in.

Another option might be a clip-on desk light.

Or this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LIL7YPE/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1463959903&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=finnex+fugeray

The problem is the cylindrical shape. If the clamp doesn't go on well, you might have to improvise.

On the aquarium I got a Fugeray Planted+ cliplight and on the terrestrial plants I'm using a growlight

This saved my sanity.

https://www.amazon.com/Clevercat-77000-Top-Entry-Litterbox/dp/B0002ZS20I

Enter-through-the-top litter boxes are the best (and only) solution I found to my kitten being a litter digger/player. I don't have this brand, but you get the idea: http://www.amazon.com/Clevercat-77000-Top-Entry-Litterbox/dp/B0002ZS20I

We have a CleverCat top entry box for our 15 lb digging maniac. He's a pain in the ass and gets cranky if the litter isn't at least 6" deep, but it's a deep enough container that it can be deep and still leave plenty of room for him to get in there and get comfortable.

I don't know about the rest of your problems except to say that every cat is different and she needs more attention than your other cat. But for the litter box, this saved my feet from litter in the bathroom. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002ZS20I?pc_redir=1412917940&robot_redir=1. Worth every penny. I read reviews of people who tried to make their own and they said it just wasn't as good.

Here's what you'll need:

• 5+ gallon tank with a lid. You can go for one of the nicer-looking (but more expensive ones) or just a plain ol' tank from any pet store. Lids are necessary because bettas are jumpy by nature.
  
  
• Heater. Bettas are tropical fish so you need something that can keep the water at around 78ºF. I'd really reccomend an adjustable one because A) you can do extra fine-tuning and B) you can bump the temperature up if you need to (if the room gets extra cold, or if your betta gets stick, etc). Here's what I use in my 5.5g.
  
  
• Thermometer. Nothing fancy, but you need something so you can know what the temperature is. Get an internal one instead of the ones that stick on the front of the glass (those aren't very accurate). Again, you can find them at any pet store for a couple bucks.
  
  
• Filter. Filters are a must because they house the bacteria that maintain a tank's cycle (preventing your fish from getting poisoned). I would reccomend either reading up on the nitrogen cycle yourself and teaching your friend or giving them a link to a guide, since if they've got the fish in a little container they probably know nothing about it. An air pump + sponge filter is a cheap way to do it but as long as you can get a filter that makes less of a current you're good. Bettas (especially ones with long heavy fins) don't like fast flowing water. I've got this one in my 5.5g. The fact that it's adjustable is super convenient.
  
  
• Substrate. Looks nice, add extra surface area for more bacteria to grow, A+. You can get either gravel or sand. If you want to go cheap, regular pool filter sand or black diamond blasting sand will get you a ton for a few bucks.
  
  
• Decor. Bettas appreciate densely planted/decorated tanks with lots of hiding places. Make sure anything you get isn't rough/sharp enough to snag panty hose, because that means it'll also tear betta fins. That means no coarse decorations, plastic plants, etc. Silk plants are popular, and mugs are an easy way to add a little cave.
  
  
• Gravel vac. When you're doing water changes you need a gravel vacuum to clean down in the gravel. I've found that this one is a great size for my 5.5g. Others I've tried pull out water too fast to get a good cleaning in before you've removed the water you need to. She'll probably need some container to put the water into as well. I just use a plastic 1-gallon pitcher for my 5.5.
  
  
• Test kit. Back to cycling, you need to have a test kit so you can know the pH, concentration of ammonia, concentration of nitrite, and concentration of nitrate in the tank. The API freshwater master test kit is far and away the most popular since it provides all four. Whatever you get, go for the liquid kits rather than the strips because strips aren't very accurate.
  
  
• Betta food, but she probably already has that. Although if she's got flakes it'd be a good idea to move her over to pellets, since flakes make the water a lot dirtier. Also I would reccomend you advise her on how much she should be feeding her betta. They're little piggies and will eat themselves sick if you let them, so people who don't research betta care are prone to overfeeding.
  
  
• Water conditioner. Water conditioner removes chlorine from tap water so fish can live in it. Oftentimes you'll see betta-specific water conditioner at stores, but this is just a scam that preys on folks who don't know better. It's overpriced, comes in tiny bottles, and is watered down. At 1/10 mL per gallon, a single bottle of Prime for instance is way cheaper and will last way longer. I'd reccomend you also get a 1mL syringe for easy dosing. Whenever I want one I pick one up from my school's chemistry stockroom for like 25 cents.

Fluval Spec 3

Best tank I've ever used. Built-in 3-stage filter concealed in the back, plus space for a 25w heater in the same compartment the pump is in.

If you get this tank I reccomend two things:

Get a Fluval Pre-filter sponge to place over the pump-output to diffuse the current

Set the pump to the lowest possible flow (It's still pretty strong so that's why you'll need the pre-filter sponge)

I second the playing tactics. I had to hire a cat behaviorist for one my cat (yes it was that bad) and she taught me how to correctly play with cats. Mimicking how a prey acts and behaves makes play time physically and mentally stimulating for kitty. Just changing how I played with him changed some of his misbehaving.

I totally got into the roll of the "prey" and actually really had fun figuring out new ways to do that. I've found one of my cats loves to catch things in the air and jumps super high. My other cat is super fast and after the initial stalking period he loves the toy to be whipped around like crazy.

This is the toy the behaviorist recommended and it is amazing. It's cheap, the cats LOVE it, so I always keep a supply of them in the house. The other thing is to make sure you don't leave these special toys out all the time. Put them away when you are done playing so it remains an exciting thing for them to do.

>how do you prevent litterbox snacking?

Litter box is behind a gate in a room the dog cannot get into. At 55 lbs, I assume your dog probably couldn't fit through a little cat door in a gate like this, but if he could fit through, figure out some other way that only the cat can get to the litter box.

>Also where do you feed your cat so that the dog doesn't eat their food?

If you're free-feeding your cat, don't. They have a tendency to not self-regulate their meals well, and that's why so many cats are overweight and obese.

The cat is fed on top of my desk, and his food is taken away the second he's done eating. I do not leave the bowl unsupervised.

sometimes it is really hard to enforce a "you can't go there" rule. We have three dogs, and they do things all the time that they know they aren't allowed to, you can see they feel guilty about, but they do it anyway (like children).

We have a baby gate that has a swinging door we can walk though, and the door itself has a cat door ( like this ) that we use to keep the dogs out of our front room that has the cat box.

Maybe get something like this to use as a training tool or stepping stone until you can fully train your dog? Also, with having the door itself there it is simple to walk though, and the cats can go through the bottom.

Although it's simple enough to say "the dog should know what they can and can't do, why aren't they doing it?" sometimes we have to provide some help to them as well. If this is a new home with new animals it could be a real challenge for her pup. I know when my boyfriend (two dogs) and I (one dog) moved in together, we had a lot of challenges to overcome to get into a happy household groove.

Edit

I have been a dog owner my whole life; and most of the dogs I've had have gotten into cat food any chance they have gotten, and will eat as much of it as they can physically handle. Something about it makes them go crazy. Having a gate like this gives the kitties a safe place to be away from the dog if they want (that's one reason we have it at our house) and it keeps the dog from eating the cat food. Some dogs will just always eat it, doesn't matter the consequences.

Several companies make baby gates with pet doors, this might be a good option for you. I am something of a baby gate expert, as I have four dogs and baby gates have been a part of my life for many years, and I've had clients use these with elderly pets to great success. If the hole is still big enough to be of concern, you can make it smaller with some cardboard.

We have six cats that vary from 6lbs to 20lbs. We needed gates that could let them into the areas they needed easily but keep the kiddo from, say, playing in the litter boxes that are in the office and bathroom. After much searching and struggling with standard tension gates that don't fit right in our house, we tried these and they are great. Easy to open & close 1 handed. All of the cats can fit through the opening (we had the doors cut off because they are going to be open all of the time anyway) and kiddo has only tried to go through once. I just put a wrap of duct tape at the top of the cat opening and all of the cats still fit through, but kiddo doesn't even try anymore. With the extenders, it even covers the awkward, wide opening between the our kitchen and dining room.

I have a 6 month old ACD mix, so we're in the same boat! They LOVE to learn new things and are very easy to train for the most part. The problem with ours is carrying those skills over to distracting environments, as he wants to pay attention to everything besides me.

Doing all you can to give him as much exercise and mental stimulation as possible will go a loooong way. If you don't, he'll probably become a terror.

If you're not making him work for his food, you're doing it wrong! Get a Buster Cube or a Tug-A-Jug or any similar food toys. It will make him think, and it might help you separate his food from the other dog's.

You need to always make him sit or down or some other command before he gets his food. I usually make mine sit, then I put the food down, and he won't go eat it until I release him. Once he can do that, it should be pretty easy to keep him from eating your other dog's food.

Do as much training with him as possible. Working his mind will wear him out pretty fast. Games like 101 Things to do with a Box really make him think. Teach a bunch of commands and give him pop quizzes by doing a bunch of them in random order for 5-10 minutes.

One cool thing I did was buy one of those big inflatable balls for kids you always see at Target or Wal-Mart in those big tall bins. He LOVES it! He herds it around the yard and wears himself out and I don't have to do anything except kick it around every once in a while. It's also really cool to see his herding instincts kick in without ever being taught how to do it.

You also need to embrace his velcro dog qualities. ACDs are great off-leash dogs because they always want to be by you. Find an empty softball field, an empty dog park, any large area with a fence, and get to work on it!

1. Figure out what size tank you have in gallons. If you don't know. Measure the length, width, and height with a tape-measure and calculate the volume here using this online calculator
   
   
2. Go the fish store immediately, tell them the size of your tank, and tell them you need the following:
   
   

• filter
  
• heater
  
• water conditioner
  
  FILTER
  
  Nothing fancy. A basic "hang-over-back" filter is all you need. Make sure to get one rated for your size tank! If you get one that's too big, you'll create way too much flow in the tank and it will tire out the fishies. This one on Amazon is rated for a 10-gallon tank.
  
  HEATER
  
  Again, nothing fancy. You just need a basic heater for your size tank. Don't get an "adjustable" heater because those take time to calibrate. Just get a "pre-set" heater. Pre-set heaters always keep the tank at about 78-degrees, which is perfect for guppies. Again, don't get one that's too big or too small. Too big will heat the tank too quickly and too small means the heater will get over-worked and eventually wear out. This one on amazon is good for a 10-gal tank as well.
  
  WATER CONDITIONER
  
  Tap water often contains chlorine to keep bacteria from growing in the pipes and making people sick. Its a safe level for humans, but it kills anything that lives in water (e.g., fish and plants). Water conditioner contains chemicals that neutralize the chlorine in tap water, making it safe for fishies again. Just follow the instructions on the bottle. Its OK to add the conditioner straight to the tank itself. As long as you have a filter circulating the water, it'll quickly make the water safe for fish and plants again. This is the water conditioner I use in my tanks.
  
  OTHER COMMENTS
  
  Employees at these stores often give some really stupid advice for more complicated issues, like the best way to make your plants grow or how to breed fancy fish, but they usually do an OK job with recommending the most basic stuff like a heaters, filter, and water conditioner. Its really hard to fuck this up because all of these products say what size tank they're rated for right on the box. Just double-check to make sure you're buying a product made for your size tank.
  
  Once you have these three things, just follow the instructions that came with each product. Its super straight-forward. When you finally have all of this set up, come back here and we can give you some more advice for the long-term care of your guppies.
  
  EDIT: Just to add a few things. The most likely culprit at the moment is either the chlorine in the tap water or the water temperature. If you used tap water and you didn't treat it, the chlorine that's often in the water is probably burning the guppies gills and making it harder and harder for them to breathe.
  
  If you did treat the water or if you're using filtered/well water, then the next most harmful condition is the cold temperature. Guppies are tropical fish and will die if left in cold water for too long. They can survive for a little while in cold water, but they'll eventually die if you don't get the water into the high-70s.
  
  Finally, the least likely problem right now is the lack of a filter. Fish excrete their waste directly into the water and over the course of a few days the tank will gradually buildup a concentration of ammonia. This ammonia will poison the fishies when the concentration get's too high. Conveniently, there are bacteria all over the place that love to eat ammonia and turn it into a less toxic chemical called nitrate, which is very safe for fish even at high concentrations. The filter provides a medium for these bacteria to grow and constantly circulates the water through the bacteria colony so the bacteria can constantly turn ammonia into nitrate. Once the bacteria colony is established, they convert the ammonia into nitrate faster than the fish can excrete more ammonia, effectively keeping the concentration of ammonia at a constant zero. All you need to do to culture a colony of ammonia-eating bacteria is to set the filter up using the instructions that came with the filter. Nature will do the rest: The bacteria are everywhere, so once the filter is going those bacteria will move in to the filter and start growing all on their own. Another benefit of the filter is that it oxygenates the water column. This is important for tanks with lots of fish, but because you only have two guppies, lack of oxygen probably isn't an issue.

Looks more like a heater.

Edit: yup. it’s a heater.

Buy a cheap 20 dollar tetra heater :) it keeps it at 76 which isn't great but it's better than no heater.

Edit: its even on sale right now on amazon! http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000OQO69Q/ref=sr_ph_1?qid=1449305138&sr=sr-1&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=tetra+heater

Something interesting to get is a [bob-a-lot.](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001JQLNB4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JiVwxbF4BKWQC
) Or a flirt pole!

Both are fun, interactive toys that you don't see too often and I would love to get them at a dog birthday party.

They actually make leash attachments you can put on the side of your bike so your dog can run with you safely without pulling you or getting run over. I've been considering getting one for my dog since I don't run, but he sure loves to.

I personally wouldn't risk that. I would go with something like this. I've had horrible luck with things like it but they were recommended on here before for situations like this :)

What other fish are you putting at risk to keep him in the DT?

Edit: ALso the medication you'll need should not be dosed in DT anyway. You could get a cheap heater (i use them in all my QTs - they have them on amazon but they also have them at WalMart for just as cheap)

I never imagined that I would be a fish owner, but I have found myself with one, and I have a huge soft spot for all animals, so I can't stand to see them neglected so I want to provide the best home the little guy I can! Here is the list of what I've gotten so far. Let me know what you think and if I have made any mistakes!

Aquarium Rocks

He already has ~5lbs so I figure 10 lbs should cover a 5 gallon tank pretty well.

Betta Balls

Gravel Vacuum

Seachem Prime

Thermometer

Heater for 5 gallon tank

5 Gallon Tank

API Freshwater Test Kit

He already has a betta log, betta hammock, a small decorative plant, Tetra betta pellets, and some bloodworms for treats. Hopefully this covers all bases for little Zazoo! (Yes, my gf named him after the bird from the Lion King. Lol) If you have any other tips for a complete beginner, I'd love to hear them! Thank you for your suggestions!

Every dog is different! This is just a rough list, but hopefully some of these things will entertain your puppy:

• A good tug toy. Either a rope or something long and durable (we use braided sheepskin) that your puppy can get ahold of without putting your hands at risk for chomps.
  
  
• A couple tennis balls and a chucker. 99% of dogs love tennis balls.
  
  
• A soft stuffing-free plush toy for them to carry around and cuddle. Stuffing-free so you don't have to worry about them swallowing anything. Bonus if it has a squeaker.
  
  
• A couple puzzle toys. I personally like Starmark's puzzle toys, in particular the Pickle Pocket and the [Bob-a-lot] (https://www.amazon.com/StarMark-Bob-Lot-Interactive-Large/dp/B001JQLNB4/ref=pd_sim_199_6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=GGKBW1XCD9KTGNVHJRHB).
  
  
• A chew. They sell puppy-safe plastic chews that are probably best for dogs under 5-6 months. Once he is old enough you could try him on bully sticks or twizzies.
  
  
• Bonus toy that provides a different texture/movement/challenge for your dog. Maybe one of those really tough toys made out of firehose material, or a wood burl, or ?? Some dogs just like empty water bottles.
  
  

I was thinking about getting this for my GSD/Husky mix - supposedly it works great and the shock absorption for sudden movements works great!

Yeah, totally safe so long as you do it the right way. You get something like this to attach the dog to the bike and you use a harness, not a collar. Also, unless your dog is super athletic then you don't want to go really fast. I tend to stay on the sidewalk that encircles the park as well and I don't run here anywhere else but in parks. She also has an orange safety bandana that says "No Touch, No Talk, No Eye Contact" as well as a yellow safety vest. You never attach the dog to your handlebars or hold the leash while you ride because they can pull you off that way since the leash isn't attached to your center of gravity.

A sponge pre-filter on your filter intake should solve your problems, unless its broken beyond belief and can't even hold the sponge filter up.

you should get him one of these: https://smile.amazon.com/Original-Sunny-Seat-Window-Mounted-Cat/dp/B005AUM8U0/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1464831725&sr=1-1&keywords=cat+window+bed

my cat (aka my fat little bastard) loves his!

Cats love these.

7 isn't really a senior as /u/antigoneelectra pointed out, but that's the age when some health ramifications from previous care start showing up. most owners neglect their cat's teeth and it really starts to become a problem when they're 4+ years old. another issue is UTIs (especially in males) which often pop-up again from a neglectful diet (or simply genetics). both are potentially expensive medical bills.
with that in mind, be financially prepared for a thorough vet check-up as well as a possible additional bill of a few hundred dollars.

don't find what i said discouraging, i think it's very responsible of you and also very insightful of you to get an older cat in your situation! i just wanted to give you a little heads-up on initial costs :)

anyway, adult cats love to lounge around so get them a window seat, a cat tree, a vertical scratching post (cats have muscles that need to be exercised vertically), and a regular scratching post.

consider a wet food diet too. either way, don't free feed as cats are prone to getting bored and grazing all day.

https://www.amazon.com/Omega-Paw-Self-Cleaning-Litter-Pewter/dp/B005E2S77C

If you don't have fish yet, pure ammonia is best. If you already have fish, feed daily and do 50% (or even 75% water change till ammonia and nitrites are 0 PPM and you see nitrates (unless you have a planted tank, where you might not see any nitrates at all).

https://www.amazon.com/DrTims-Aquatics-Ammonium-chloride-bottle/dp/B006MP4QG6\

or

https://www.amazon.com/Fritz-Aquatics-Ammonium-Chloride-Treats/dp/B00OTH5TAQ

You have to cycle the tank first. To start the cycle you need to add ammonia. Typically take around 6weeks for a full cycle.

Read this to learn how and why to cycle.


Here is ammonia drops


Here is API Master Test Kit which you will need to monitor water while cycling and afterwards.

$6 on amazon

Hey OP so I hate to be a bit of a buzzkill here, but you might want to check out aqadvisor, I looked at your stock list and for a tank that size it would be severely overstocked and you would be dealing with a lot of aggression from your fish.

I don't know much about angelfish, but I think they're supposed to be pretty aggressive, making it difficult to keep with other fish. Some gouramis might be great, but they can get pretty aggressive too. I have one right now and he doesn't play too nicely with my black phantom tetras sometimes.

Oh, are you doing a fishless cycle? Remember that Eco complete has no nutrients in it so it won't leach ammonia. This means that you will have to dose the ammonia yourself, I know Amazon sells Dr Tims ammonia chloride that is suitable for aquarium use. If you do use something else, make sure that it doesn't have surfactants in it, meaning that it doesn't make lots of bubbles when you shake it, surfactants are harmful to your aquarium!

Since your substrate won't leach ammonia, you will need to make sure that you dose your substrate too or your water column. I didn't know this going into my tank and I am having all sorts of algae problems now myself, I think that I've run out of nutrients in the substrate.

You also might want to take your driftwood out of your tank and scrub and boil it for a few hours to make it completely safe for your aquarium. This will also solve your floating problem!

Anyways, that was a lot and I hope you were able to bear with me! I think that you have a good start and it's looking pretty promising. I think that you've arranged the driftwood quite nicely and I hope you'll post pics when it grows it. Looking good, I hope this helps!

You should look into getting it filtered and cycled.

Get something like this and put in some of this in the tank. You can hook the filter up to something like this. There should be more info in the side bar and check out r/bettafish

https://www.amazon.com/Rocco-Roxie-Supply-Co-Professional/dp/B00CKFL93K/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=rocco+and+roxie+stain+and+odor+eliminator&qid=1563673713&s=gateway&sprefix=rocco&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

A few years ago my cat had bladder stones and she peed on my bed a lot. This stuff got the smell out, but be careful not to breathe it in when you spray it. It's pretty harsh.

Edit: good luck. Cat urine is pretty much the worst smell.

I haven't tried these but heard good things about them on other forums and the reviews are very positive, especially since Nature's Miracle switched scents and ruined a good product. Just a few suggested Amazon links that might work well for you. Not sure if anyone else can suggest them or not.

Rocco & Roxie Professional Strength Stain & Odor Eliminator: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CKFL93K/

Sunny & Honey Pet Stain & Odor Miracle: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J4Z5B24

Zero Odor Pet Spray: https://www.amazon.com/Zero-Odor-Eliminator-Trigger-ounces/dp/B0049PBWEA/

Bubba's Rowdy Friends Pet Supply Company Pet Stain and Odor Remover Enzyme Cleaner Spray: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GK56SVE/

I have a cat that has marked its territory somewhere she shouldn’t have (carpet), have you heard of this?

Rocco & Roxie Supply Professional Strength Stain and Odor Eliminator, Enzyme-Powered Pet Odor and Stain Remover for Dogs and Cat Urine, Spot Carpet Cleaner for Small Animal, 32 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CKFL93K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2SrRCbR36TB34

The thing with cat pee is that they still smell it even after cleaning it out with vinegar and or baking soda so their pee needs a enzyme cleaner like the one above, the reviews are great however I haven’t boughten one cuz I can’t afford it now.

This is the one I have. Mine loves hers too, I just have to be careful to make sure I refill it often enough. Luckily it mades a horrendous noise when it gets empty but I'm sure it isn't good for the motor

Works up to 130lbs. You could use it clipped into a collar, but I would definitely recommend with a harness.

If you're carrying people and a dog, this goes over the headrest, and is long enough for the dog to have some space.

It doesnt seem like you clip in your dog, but since we do, I bought: https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Adjustable-Vehicle-Seatbelt-Harness/dp/B014W40TSW/

Im not sure if it works on the 3 yet, my delivery is for next wednesday.

I also bought this mat so that our dog doesnt scratch up the seats. I didnt want to have to get seat covers and this is easily foldable and can be thrown in the trunk

try this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0191EWII2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_Q4SFzbGZVASP7
i just ordered the larger size for my new 20 long and its great. much more affordable too

I am running a Nicrew on my ten gallon, might go with it when I get a 20g long also. .

https://www.amazon.com/NICREW-Aquarium-Light-Extendable-Brackets/dp/B01C84SLRO?th=1

I think it’s worth a try. Here’s the one I have.. It’s small enough to move it around if you need to, and the canister lasts a while.

Have you looked into Top Entry litter boxes? Not sure if that would work for your space, but they work great keeping EVERYTHING in. Litter too, since the cats have to jump out, there's less tracking!

http://www.amazon.com/Clevercat-77000-Top-Entry-Litterbox/dp/B0002ZS20I/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1376024305&sr=1-1&keywords=top+entry+litter+box

Hydor 25w adjustable heater. Heres a link on amazon. I've shopped around and this is the cheapest best small heater for a 5g and below.

http://www.amazon.com/Hydor-25W-Submersible-Aquarium-Heater/dp/B0006JLPG8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1382724963&sr=8-1&keywords=hydor+adjustable+heater

looks like they went up , I picked it up for 16 bucks a couple months ago.

Just purchased this for my Fluval Chi 6 gal: Hydor 25W Submersible Glass Aquarium Heater - Original Theo https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006JLPG8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9mYiybMJJ8980

This is usually a hit

The recommended amount is often too much. If that amount makes him chunky, feed him less. Also, you can get him active with toys like these: link link link

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000JJDI0G?pc_redir=1405297237&robot_redir=1

Bam!

That's pretty neat. I had a food dispenser for my last dog (who was a pukey guy). When the food got released, it did make a lot of noise. How smart is Henry? He'd have to work for food to get it out. The dog I have now is smart, so we put some food in there and he has to work to get it out. http://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Premier-Buddy-Tug-A-Jug-Medium/dp/B000KV7ZGQ.

Also, some of the rescues I've helped with recommend freezing treats in a Kong.

Also, you might want to bring it up next time Henry has a check up. Our last dog required daily antacids. The acid was making him throw up.

For the litter tracking problem I'd recommend a top-loading litter box or just buy a large plastic bin and carve a hole out of the top if you're handy with tools. This almost completely eliminated the litter tracking problem in my house with two cats.

As for spilling water, I would suggest getting a heavier ceramic water bowl with non-slip feet and placing it on a feeding mat. You could even invest a pet water fountain like this one (which are large and virtually impossible to knock down) if you find that your cats enjoy running water more than standing water.

They make some like that, we had this one for my old cat (rip gilbert). He loved to toss litter around and this helped a lot but it was a bit of a pain to clean, but then what litter box isn't?

This unsightly thing actually worked surprisingly well. Generally, dogs hate sticking their heads in small spaces like that. So, even when she's older, she'll likely leave it alone.

There are a plenty of others, but they can be rather costly. If you're crafty, you could always design something around it too. I'm not, so that was out of the question.

I do the same, I've got mine in the laundry room with cat door. I use one of those litter catching mats, combined with an extra tall litter box (you might even consider a setup like this). I also vacuum the room regularly, because my cat is just ridiculously messy no matter what we do.

Use the Clevercat litter box: http://www.amazon.com/Clevercat-77000-Top-Entry-Litterbox/dp/B0002ZS20I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421103970&sr=8-1&keywords=clever+cat

I switched to this when I had my cat track litter all over the place from his usual front entry litter box. The top entry for this prevents him from throwing litter out while burying his poop and the grooves on the top scrape off litter that is stuck on his feet. Pair the litter box with a mat/pad and you will have little or no litter in the rest of your house. Bonus: If you have a dog, this box will stop them from getting into the kitty litter for treats.

Ever seen a top entry litterbox? Your son might be compelled to toss a toy into the hole, but he himself wouldn't have access to it. Plus it keeps cats from flinging litter everywhere, win-win.

https://www.amazon.com/Hydor-Submersible-Glass-Aquarium-Heater/dp/B0006JLPG8/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1484007071&sr=1-1&keywords=hydor+theo

Your fishy would love a tank heater. You'll have to do a little research in order to get the right wattage. With a 20 gallon tank, you'd be looking at around 100 or more watts.

My Betta has a coco hut and he really likes to hide in it (make sure that the one you receive is the "correct" size - the first one they sent me was way too small, so I returned it and ordered a new one). Give it a good boil or two before putting it in your tank.

Also, I use Aqueon betta water conditioner and have had good luck with it. https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_1_11?url=search-alias%3Dpets&field-keywords=betta+water+conditioner&sprefix=betta+water%2Cpets%2C120&crid=AGT714XS0TZG

Omega One Betta Buffet pellets are great and so are New Life Spectrum Betta Formula pellets. :)

When you expand, this might be a handy tool for you: AquaAdvisor

Right now, if I were you, I would purchase:

HOB Nano filter

Siphon Water changer/gravel vacuum - Carry your aquarium over to a drain. Keep an empty two liter handy to pour freshwater back in.

You cycled your tank, right? If not, you may want to pour some of this in there to help.

Water Test Kit Keep track 2x a week. Small tanks are more difficult since water conditions can go bad quite quickly. Keeping an aquarium is not about fish, it's about chemistry.

Spiral CFL bulb to replace the incandescent you probably have. Incandescents suck and heat your aquarium way too much.

Thermometer Glass, with suction cup.

Light timer Trust me, keeping that light on all day is only going to cause algae, and won't make your plants grow quicker. 6 hours in the beginning, 8 hours max.

Heater 25 watt, keep at 80 degrees. The gradient lines will NOT be accurate.

------

Low-tech tank care Study this, and pay attention to the dry fertilization part.

Okay if he can eat them he probably is full when he stops. Don't feed him more if there are some at the bottom. Remove those or they will spike your ammonia and harm him.

Do you have a Petsmart near you? This is a 5.5g with a filter and light for only $30. Here is a heater get the 50W for only $17.

Those are the most important things and only about $50. You will also need a water conditioner if you don't have one already - don't waste money on a betta-specific one, just get something like AquaClear Plus. Anything else isn't critical.

Being removed from the tank (and needing to do 100% water changes) are very stressful on the fish. Normally you would leave the fish in and use a siphon to remove debris/poop from the gravel/substrate and ~20% of the tank water. Then get new water, condition and add. Fish stays in.

TBH fish will jump no matter how they feel. Some species are just notorious jumpers regardless of how the water/environment is for them. My LFS had some wrasse jump twice while I was there to buy corals and me and the employee both were trained for that particular-sounding splash lol. Some people train their bettas to leap for food! But yes, the fish can jump if it's unhappy. But not jumping does NOT mean the fish is happy, and jumping doesn't mean the fish ISN'T happy.

As far as equipment goes, get an AquaClear 20 (or 30) filter, an Aqueon (or other reliable brand, I've used Hydor with good luck) ADJUSTABLE heater. A thermometer. The lights you get depends on what you plan on doing with your tank. You're also going to need a water testing kit, a dechlorinator (most people will recommend Seachem Prime).

Is this going to be your first aquarium?

My kitty is also very picky about toys, but his favorite is cheap and awesome... Cat Dancer! It's just wire and cardboard tubing, so you could totally make one. Your little Boo will have some serious fun!

I can't really speak for any institutions that are cat-friendly, but my cat is solely an indoor cat (he's FIV+) and I feel bad about having him in a small apartment as well. I try to exercise him every night with toys -- he really loves this one. I can sit on my bed and just bounce it around the floor and on the bed and he goes crazy for it! After 20 minutes he gets tired out, and it's somewhat of an arm workout for me as well.

The Kickeroo is stuffed with soft stuff, like cotton batting. My cats hate paper filling in such toys but love the Kickeroo. It's been my experience working with cats that this is basically the only Kicker toy worth buying. This is only helpful if she is a kicker, i.e. when she plays, if she lays on the ground and uses all four paws to kick/shred the toy/your arm. It's a natural instinct cats have to disembowel prey. But not every cat is a kicker, so not every cat will benefit from this.

Not every cat responds to catnip, so no biggie there.

It sounds like she's just too intelligent for her own good. Either there is some physical quality to the wand that is attracting her (can test this by either removing the string part or just holding the toy in your hand so essentially the toy is only a stick, then moving the stick on the ground like it's prey), or she has figured out toy -> string -> stick, so if you get the stick, you win. I'd recommend a wand toy with a longer string. Da Bird entertains 98% of cats in my experience. Also, the cat dancer is 100% worth the $3.50. It moves like a bug would. In my experience, 100% of cats under 5 respond to it. They might get bored after 5 minutes, but I'm usually bored after 5 minutes, too.

Your cat sounds like a really good candidate for clicker training. The idea with clicker training is twofold: one, you train her to do what you want her to do (be quieter, leave you alone when you are doing certain things); two, she gets a sense of intellectual fulfillment and satisfaction. Cats are designed to hunt prey. When they live in our homes all their lives, they never get to do what they were meant to do, so I think it's natural that they are frustrated at times. When you clicker train a cat, you are stimulating a part of their brain that makes them think. If they respond to certain stimuli, they get a reward. Even if you just do this 2-3 minutes a day, you should see improvements in her temperament.

I've used an assortment of free resources (there is a great Yahoo group for clicker training cats) to teach myself. There are also two books that are considered the gold standard for this: this and this. I haven't read them, but if you're looking for a quick way to start, I've heard good things about both. The clicker is important - you can also use an old jam lid (one with those pop up buttons) as long as it makes a distinct, regular, loud-enough sound. This is all based on psychological research, so don't skimp on that part.

Wish I could be of more help! Good luck.

It's cheap and simple, but my super lazy cat goes crazy for this thing called the Cat Dancer. And yes, it is just rolled up pieces of paper at the end of a wire. I have no idea what it is he loves about it.

http://www.amazon.com/Cat-Dancer-101-Interactive-Toy/dp/B0006N9I68

This. Freaking. Thing.
Https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006N9I68/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_QkNhzb2TE4SRQ

It's just a wire with rolled up pieces of paper on it that you wave around your cat. Mine are both 7 and lost interest in toys a few years ago, but they LOVE that thing. Plus, it's only $2.

Additionally, the only other toy they really play with is this feathered Kong catnip toy.
Https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0018MXX3K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_qoNhzbSF1HA0J

It’s called a “Cat Dancer”. They’re super inexpensive ($1.99 on Amazon last time I bought one). My bengal would make these adorable chirping sounds he didn’t normally make while playing with it. It’s also great because you can tape it to the wall when your arm gets tired and they can bat at it on their own time. I’ve given them as gifts to several friends and every cat seems to love it. Here’s the link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006N9I68/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_W5V7BbWNMZ1VK

Maybe try some new toys?

I've been meaning to make a list of my cats' favorite toys. I have two cats, brother and sister, Millie and Smokey, now about 9 months old.

First, I can't explain it, but this carrot. I bought it on a whim at a pet store because it was on clearance and I thought it kind of looked like the Minecraft carrot and I thought it would be cute to see them playing with it. It comes with separate catnip container and you can fill the carrot with catnip, but I didn't use any. OMG, they go crazy for the thing. They get super possessive of it. If the other cat comes near, they'll growl and run away. Smokey likes to be chased when he has the carrot in his mouth. I lunge like I want to steak his carrot and he runs a few feet away, daring me to try to take it again. Millie will self-play with the carrot, batting it around on our hardwood floors. They've gone through two already. I think it's time to get a third.

Da Bird. It was recommended here and it's awesome. Something about the movement, the twirling, the colors, the noise. They can't ignore this thing. If the feather thing gets destroyed, replacements are available and cheap.

Cat Dancer 101. This is a stiff wire with some cardboard bits on one end. Move it and shake it a bit and I guess it looks like a flying insect. On the plus side, when they catch it, it's fairly easy to get them to release it.

Cat Dancer 301. This is Millie's favorite. She knows where I keep it and "leads" me to it at every opportunity. Like, first thing when I wake up and when I get home from work. It's a short stick with a long strip of fleece material. Wave it as you move in a circle and they're mesmerized. When they catch it, it's a bit difficult to get them to release it.

There are three toys I've found that cats consistently like, and they are all pretty cheap.

1. A laser pointer
   
2. catnip
   
3. a cat dancer http://www.amazon.com/Cat-Dancer-CAT-DANCER-ORIGINAL/dp/B0006N9I68

My cats have a ton of toys too, these are the only ones they really like now and still play with:

https://www.chewy.com/yeowww-catnip-pollock-fish-cat-toy/dp/130278 (I was skeptical my cat would play with this but they all went INSANE with it - kicking up a storm and wrestling with it)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006N9I68/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (this one you have to play with them. I'd say it mimics flying insects and my cats NEVER get tired of it)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JANUEQ8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (a wand toy. Mine get bored with wands after awhile but for some reason really like this one)

A laser pointer is always good for exercise and fun also.

I ended up with the most energetic and playful Newfie in the world, and she loves to chase the cats so I have some experience in this.

• First, I never let the puppy out of my sight. She's in whichever room I'm in, if I leave she's in her crate. When I use the restroom or shower she's sitting in the bathroom doorway. If she tries to leave the room I call her back and give her a treat. She's pretty good about that.
  
• Second, there are parts of the house she's NEVER allowed in--the kitchen and the laundry room. The kitchen is where everyone's food is prepared and where the cats eat and drink, the laundry room is where their litterbox is.
  
• Third, my cats have lots of high places to go to if they don't want to be hassled. They have a cat tree, shelves, and they like to hang out on the back of the sofa (my dog doesn't like furniture, luckily).
  
• Forth, I recognize and reward when she ignores the cats, and call her to me if she's gets too close.
  
  Obviously all of this requires training and conditioning, but it was very worth the time. You can also get baby gates with a little pet door on the bottom. If your pup is especially unruly and disregards boundaries, gates like that are great.

Going to be a bit long, bare with me.

Do not directly introduce the dog & cat at first. Keep them completely separated from each other. This will involve a bit of revolving animals, but in the long run it’ll be worth it. Crate the pup away from the cat and let the cat roam, sniff, etc. Hopefully the cat will “scent” some objects. After, say, an hour, crate cat away from dog. Let the dog sniff around. Do this process for 1 full week. During week 2 continue week 1 but add: rub your hands all over the cat’s face (where scent glands are) then immediately rub “scented” hands on dog’s face. This will force the dog to deal with the scent continuously. Do that for a week. Week 3 is week 2 plus “drive byes”. Dog on leash walks by crated cat until dog doesn’t show intense interest. After that you should be good. However it’s always best to have a safe space for the cat to go that the dog can’t. There are pet gates that don’t require any drilling that work wonders.

I hope that all makes sense. If you have other questions just ask.

Source: dog trainer for 10 years, own 2 pits, 1 Rottie, and 2 cats.

We have this for our laundry room where the litter box is (and will be getting more for the stairs) and we really like it! I'm not sure how well bigger boned cats will get through but ours is about 10lbs and he has no problem at all.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000JJDI0G/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have the same gate, it's marketed as a pet gate. I also use it to keep dog away from cat litter/food.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JJDI0G/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the one I plan to get.. But it's just pressure mounted, not screwed to the wall.

• Labs are notoriously fast eaters, so maybe a puzzle toy? Here are some good ones: 1, 2, 3. You can also never have enough Kongs, and they're sold at big box pet stores.
  
• A cool fetch toy might be fun too, like a Chuckit or a Ball-on-a-Rope. You can find Chuckit products at the big box pet stores. I like the ball-on-a-rope for training...I can throw it, tug with it, dangle it like a flirt pole, and it fits in my pocket. This Frisbee is good for training too because I can fold it up and put it in my pocket. Plus it glows in the dark and floats!

I have a papillon mix and they are so much fun to train! I do agility with my pup, and you are going to love it. :)

You could do nosework at home, or teach different "practical" tricks (put your toys away into a basket, fetch a newspaper, close the door etc.).

We also play the "101 things to do with a box" game with clicker training. This one is particularly fun because the dog gets to offer random behaviors, and you never know what your pup might be capable of. With this game, we've inadvertently taught our dog "paw at that" and "get in the box".

Edit: I wanted to mention that one of the few drawbacks with having a smart, "gotta have a job to do" dog means that you need to be mindful of keeping them from getting bored. We feed our dog all of his meals using various food toys/puzzles and that will usually keep him occupied for a while.

It seems you've tried most toys.

Have you tried something like a tug-a-jug or other toys designed to keep a dog interested?

Poodle crosses are generally smart, almost too smart for their own good. They can get bored easily and need to be mentally engaged and stimulated.

To this end, you might also think about a toy you stuff food into, such as this or this. It will slow the feeding down, and also keep your dog entertained throughout the day.

the shelter i volunteer at gives kongs to all the dogs. i've never seen them tear one up. maybe i'll see an indentation on the kong, but i've never seen one break a piece off. seriously, hundreds of dogs, never an incident like you're describing. saint bernards, pit bulls, german shepherds, no kong incidents.

peanut butter alternatives: you can fill the kong with food mixed with peanut butter. sometimes i'll put rice and chicken in the food processor until it's a thick paste and fill the kong with that. or, you can make some "honest kitchen" wet dog food, put it in the kong, leave it in the fridge, and give it to her when you leave.

kong alternatives: i like busy buddies. I started with this one and moved up to this one (removed the rope) for my dog. This is where she gets all her food now. You can fill it with normal food if you're worried about the dog's weight. These are a little harder, so if the dog doesn't seem interested when you introduce them, you can fill them with really high value treats like hot dog pieces until she gets the hang of it.

you can give her the toys when you leave and take them away when you get home. Some people don't like to take the toy away when the dog is using it -- because it can lead to food guarding -- but that may be no big deal if you're only working on separation anxiety.

it sounds like the dog needs a lot of enrichment. in addition to toys, i would also check out clicker training. it's a good way to exercise the dog's mind and anyone can do it.

also, don't give them rawhide. bully stick instead.

more walks may help. take her down to the park and meet men. i don't have a fenced yard, either, so i got a 30ft leash so my dog can run around. i also run with the dog every now and then.

there's no magic bullet, but there are a lot of small things you can do. all this sounds like a big pain in the ass, but it's probably easier than cleaning up a bunch of trash when you get home.

also check out /r/dogtraining. there are people with actual qualifications there.

and if you decide to get professional help, check their qualifications. CeXXr MXXXn is like the Scientology of dog training. A lot of "trainers" and "behaviorists" will claim to be a "member" of a dog training association. That just means they go to conferences and pay dues. There are lots of CXXar MXXXns in disguise, like BXXk BXXXXXs. You want a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist or a Certified Pet Dog Trainer or a Certified Animal Behavior Consultant.

EDIT: Formatting

Jumping on your comment to say: My vets have advised me that the first ingredient in cat food should be some sort of whole meat - not a grain or meal (corn meal is popular) or vegetable. Cats are obligate carnivores and need to eat meat.

Also, if your cat won’t eat wet food (mine won’t, the tiny asshole) make doubly sure to provide water. Cats generally like their food and water sources to be separate, for some reason. I keep the litter box, food and water in three separate rooms. My cat is particular about his water fountain but really likes this one: Catit Flower Fountain: 3L Cat Water Fountain with Triple-Action Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0146QXOB0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_B8YyDbEX56WVY

All this said but cats are super individual. They aren’t very good at adapting to new situations, so you have to meet them (more than) half way.

Not at all. Catit Water Fountain

I've had it for a couple years, still going strong. Bonus feature that is possibly unintended, it gets noisier when it is getting empty. It doesn't make much noise when full, but the pump becomes audible when it's almost out of water.

> https://www.amazon.com/Catit-43742-Flower-Fountain/dp/B0146QXOB0/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1500244627&sr=1-2&keywords=catit+flower+fountain

Do your kitties prefer one over the other?

Try getting a fountain water bowl: Catit Flower Fountain: 3L Cat Water Fountain with Triple-Action Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0146QXOB0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Dd3LDb5Z5XCCM

We have that one and our cat drinks more water than with a regular bowl.

I love water fountains for my cats. Cats have difficulty judging where the water's surface is if it isn't moving. This is why he splashes.

I have this one, and I love it. I wish it was ceramic, though.

I have 3 cats. There was a stray cat running around my neighborhood and we decided to bring her in and take care of her. Apparently she was pregnant. She had 5 babies and we kept 2 from the litter. Anyway, here are a couple random pics of them. They're my little babies 😍 My cats would love this!

Fountains do help. We've had a few. We found one easy to clean and the cats love it.

Its how we stopped out cats from knocking over the bowl. And we still have a couple that like to put their paws in the water, but its fine.

And no, they will still drink from a regular bowl. All of ours do if needed. Minus the one that refuses to drink unless it's running or in an actual glass.

The one we have https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0146QXOB0

Have these, work great https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B014W40TSW/

We use these and Ruffwear harnesses. One end clips into the seat belt thing and the other attaches to the back of the harness. They're cheap and work great.

99% sure it was this one: Nicrew LED Aquarium Hood Lighting Fish Tank Light for Freshwater and Saltwater, Blue and White Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0191EWII2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_YFiCxb3YJHNTV (on mobile, sorry)

I had a Nicrew 12-18 inch LED light on my 5 gallon for a while and it worked splendidly. Nothing spectacular, but it grew my Swords and Java Ferns. Great for low light, not so much for carpeting. Also it's cheap. But I don't know how much that matters to you.

You can find it here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0191EWII2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HiqIDbZ9F02HN

I've recently upgraded the tank to 10G and am now using a Finnex stingray on it. I have to say that it is one of the best lights I've ever used. It's just the right amount of light and is great for low maintenance/low light plants and high maintenance/high light plants, so it's good all around. I'm not sure if they have a model suitable for a 5 gallon but it may be worth checking out. It's a bit more expensive but worth the price IMO.

You can find it here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NAFQ6FK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Hope this helps a bit OP

The tank is very deep so I replaced the light that came with the tank with this it grows plants okay but I wish now I had bought an even brighter light, something like a round floodlight would work well for this tank. Also I glued a piece of foam over the filter intake slots to prevent shrimp from being sucked in, it seems to work fine and does not affect the filter flow rate. Cleaning algae off the curved corners can be a chore but otherwise it's a great little tank.

I have this NICREW light on my 5.5 gallon and it's lovely, it's adjustable and has day (white + blue LED) and night (blue LED only) settings. For the price I think it's a great bargain especially if you don't have high light requirements for your plants.

I tested the 28-36" NICREW ClassicLED at 50 PAR on a 20g long (through the standard Aqueon lid). The 30-36" is probably slightly higher:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0191EWII2/

If you want more PAR than you know what to do with and those differently colored LEDs for plants, I tested their Plus model at 149 PAR on my 20g long (through the standard Aqueon lid). I would suggest a dimmer with that one even though you are injecting CO2:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F7391M2/

Depends on what shrimp you want to keep, some of them require specific setup, like soft water Caridina (crystal shrimp and bees) and hard water Caridina (Sulawesi shrimp). "Base" will be very different for each of them. The rest of questions can be answered only after you decide on what kind of shrimp to keep.

Here are some of their photos and requirements. More on ShrimpFever website, or of any other supplier.

Next, make sure that you water is suitable for chosen kind of shrimp. Test or do online search for name of your city and water analysis. Or maybe you are already prepared to make optimal for them artificial RO based water.

Minimal tank setup: tank (not kit), filter (sponge is good), heater only if your room is cold in the winter, thermometer, light for plants, plants, a lot of hiding places for molted shrimp and babies (could be clumps of plants, wood, shrimp shelters). Substrate is species specific.

Sponge filter: T-shaped is my preferred kind. It should be connected to air pump by airline tubing, with check valve and double air valve to regulate intensity of air flow. Do amazon search for each of them, you will see how they look like. If power filter (=HOB), intake protector will be necessary for small shrimp and babies, sponge or stainless steel cylinder, pantyhose should work too.

If you will need heater, preset to 78F heater could be used only for neocaridina (cherries) and ghosts, but not for cold water caridina. Adjustable heaters could not keep temperature low enough, then external temperature controller (like Inkbird) could be needed. 50W should be enough.

Plants are up to you, this is very personal. I prefer the easiest way, low light low tech plated tanks mostly moss based (Christmas moss, weeping moss, spiky moss, fontinalis, Marimo moss ball, round pellia (actually liverwort, subwassertag or susswassertang), mini pellia. Do image search for moss tank to see moss trees, walls, hills, logs. Rootless plants do not require substrate at all.

Light is kind of plants specific, there are low light setups, fast and easy, and high light setups with fertilization schedule and CO2 dosing. Planted Tank subreddit can say what light fixture would be good for your tank and plants, if your price range. I'm using Nicrew and for other tanks, desktop lamps with daylight CFL. You will need tank cover (lid) for this kind of lights and to reduce evaporation. $5 timer is good enough, but you can ask for a better solution at Planted Tank.

Reliable online stores for livestock: you should name the country. ShrimpFever should be of no help if you are not in Canada.

Food sources for shrimp: depends on the kind of shrimp.

• Dwarf shrimp (cherry, crystals) will graze on the biofilm on the driftwood, glass, sponge filter, plants, with additional feeding by blanched or weighed raw vegetables (zucchini, cucumber, baby carrots, broccoli and so on, preferably low in sugar and holding shape well), leaf litter (do search for this and shrimp), and commercial food (you can see examples on ShrimpFever and find the same in your country). Mineral supplement helps with molting and color. Using feeding dish (like small Petri dish) helps to control pollution, this is even better. More about feeding them is in Shrimp Tank search.
  
  
• Ghost shrimp: anything you give them, especially live black worms, or frozen worms, will be appreciated. Variety and what doesn't pollute tank much.
  
  
• Amano and fan shrimp, no experience.
  
  Maintenance tools: if you will have substrate, gravel cleaner, sized to your tank, bucket, glass scraper.
  
  Tests: API GH/KH test kit; ammonia, nitrite, nitrate for cycling tank; pH just in case, TDS meter is helpful.
  
  Good to have: a piece of clear acrylic tubing for picking up uneaten food, this shrimp net. Scissors are up to you, I'm pulling apart my mosses by hands.

NICREW ClassicLED Aquarium Light, Fish Tank Light with Extendable Brackets, White and Blue LEDs, 6W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0191EWII2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ByE8AbA5JE4AM

Best advice is to take your time and buy what will make you happy. You'll only spend more money in the long run if you compromise now. Luckily, not everything needs bought at once. Tank, filter, and heater are necessary purchases now. Lighting and decor can be figured out more slowly.

I can recommend what I'd get in your position.

If you're going to buy a kit, this is a good one. Personally, I like this heater, but they do sell a cheaper version. So, about $100 for the tank, heater, filter, and light.

If you want to buy the parts separately, you can get a 10 gallon tank for $10-$15 or cheaper checking craigslist. You'll also need some kind of lid to cover the tank. You can buy glass ones or some people get a piece of glass or acrylic cut to cover it. Tank + lid: $25-$30

Aquaclears are my favorite filters for my tanks, but you could use a sponge filter. You'd need an air pump for the sponge one. So, $20-$25 for a filter.

Real plants are nice, but not necessary. You can do fine with fake ones, just make sure the edges aren't sharp. If you do want plants, the Spec V light should be plenty for low light plants. If you want to buy the light separately, this or this would be fine. I've had a Nicrew one on my larger tank before and it's enough for low light plants.

Or you could just get a clamp on lamp from the store and a daylight bulb. That whole set up would be about $10.

Until you get a new set up, I would recommend water changes at least once a day, if not more. I would also strongly recommend buying a water testing kit.

^ This is correct.

Also, re: lights -

This little NiCrew light is only $18.99 and does wonders for lighting. It's sturdy, adjustable, super bright, has two modes (white and blue LEDs) and our plants grow like crazy under it.

We have two of them -- one on our 20G Long and one on one of our 10Gs, and we wouldn't trade them for the world.

No real advice on the decorations, but I purchased this light on Amazon a couple weeks ago and I love it! Not expensive at all either. NICREW ClassicLED Aquarium Light,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C84SLRO?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Check this out. Those are my two 10 gallons with those lights. Plants are thriving. I also put the link to amazon. They are 40$ CAD for a 20-27 inch long. http://imgur.com/a/1SHR5DD / https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01C84SLRO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kkHIBb11K3QDF

I use NICREW ClassicLED Aquarium Light, Fish Tank Light with Extendable Brackets, White and Blue LEDs, Size 20 to 27 Inch, 11 Watts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C84SLRO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_25MvCbQTZWCRA
its a medium to high light it’s really good

I think something like below for your tank would be a good start. I would read reviews to make sure the intensity is right for yours to avoid algae problems.

The reason I recommend this route is it’s often the cheaper option for someone in your situation. I’ve noticed people sell their used equipments for well over 50% on this sub, and with shipping, you’re not getting any deals. There seems to be plenty of cheaper options nowadays besides something like a Finnex. But it wouldn’t hurt to ask, of course, especially if you come across a local hobbyist.

NICREW ClassicLED Aquarium Light, Fish Tank Light with Extendable Brackets, White and Blue LEDs, Size 20 to 27 Inch, 11 Watts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C84SLRO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LEmTBbM7Q1NBW

Got it all on amazon!

Filter

Light

Heater

Edit: You might want to go bigger on the heater than what I got. I think mine is good up to a 10g.

Thanks dude!

Yes, the bulb can be a bit heavy. I had good luck with this socket: https://www.amazon.com/Simple-Deluxe-Aluminum-Reflector-Included/dp/B01E9IY6US/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?keywords=light+bulb+socket&qid=1562912646&s=gateway&sprefix=light+bulb+&sr=8-12

It has a clip and it can be used to sort of prop the bulb up. Just have to take the big shade off.

Also, I’ve taken the clip off and just propped its back end up on a pillow.

Okay well I have a few different options for you.

The setup I went with that works really well is to buy two softboxes ($65). This will get you really good lighting and you can add a rear or hair light to do 3 point lighting very easily later if you want to make it slightly better.

Before that I had 2-3 clip lamps ($8 each) which worked alright, but definitely not nearly as good as the softboxes. You will want to put some daylight bulbs in them and then cover the front with some paper to diffuse the light. This is probably your cheapest setup, but the quality difference is worth the extra price for softboxes IMO.

You can also go with LED camera lights ($37 each) but for the price you might as well get the softboxes and be done with it.

Amazon! A small clamp light and a light bulb that hopefully matches the best specs for a good grow light! It took me a couple tries to find one small enough to not blind everyone around my desk too, and I went off of suggestions to get one with 30W+, 6500K, and 2000+ lumens.

I'm gonna quote what I wrote about my set-up in another thread. Small, cheap, and can clamp anywhere. Good luck!

> Very, very basic. I only got into succulents about two months ago, so keep in mind I'm very much a beginner.
>
> Right now, I have three clamp lamps with these bulbs, clipped onto a leaning desk. It's pretty cheap and seems to be working out for me so far, judging by the compact new growth on my light-hungry Echeverias. But I'm running out of grow-light room! I've been debating upgrading to one of these or simply just buying another clamp lamp to cover more surface area (since I know my addiction will eventually lead to me buying more babies).

Get some 100W LED daylight bulbs.

And one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Simple-Deluxe-Aluminum-Reflector-Included/dp/B01E9IY6US/

And also one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Toplimit-Standard-Splitter-Heat-resistant-86V-240V/dp/B00T5JD2P2

That's if you want super ghetto and super cheap. And/or super easy to say "oh it is not for growing weed, mom and dad. It is for my photography studio. which is a much more expensive hobby than growing weed."

If you have the money for it, getting each of you a mic like the Samson Q2U or Audio-Technica ATR2100 will go a long way in making the sound better. Another thing is to do some basic acoustic treatment. If you string up a heavy blanket behind each of you, and another on the wall that's in frame, it will cut out a lot of the echos and make you sound a lot better (no matter what mic you're using).

For video, I'm not sure there is much that can be done to the recording quality without spending a bunch of money on a camera, but there are a couple of things you can still do to make it look nicer. First of all, improve your lighting. Everything is well lit, but if you focus the lights more on your faces and have less light in the background, it will add a nice contrast to the scene (clamp style work lights are a cheap solution if you need more lights). The other thing is more audio based, but record the video and audio separately. Audacity is a free software for audio recording/editing, and if you can record it there as well as in OBS, you can have the audio only for a more 'traditional' podcast.

​

I know it sounded like a lot of critique there, but overall what you have isn't bad. There's room for improvement, but the only thing I would consider as needed would be some acoustic treatment. I hope this all helped!

They need to be relatively close to be effective as far as I've read but it's worth it. It doesn't have to be elaborate just a bulb like this (you want it to be 6500k) and a desk lamp or clamp light .

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01E9IY6US/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511774078&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=clip+on+shop+lights&dpPl=1&dpID=410mNADp05L&ref=plSrch

you can get away with one of these and a plant led or cfl bulb and they will do fine...put on a timer if you want as well

My border collie pup really enjoys this. I make him work for his dinner and breakfast. It has helped loads in turning down his destructive behaviors.

If it was me, I'd start by doing this:

• Upgrade his tank to something larger, at least 3 gallons, although something like 5 is more preferable. Despite the common misconception that bettas need a minuscule amount of space to swim around, they actually prefer larger areas. It's like keeping a horse exclusively in its stable. ...Except underwater.
  
  
• Invest in a filter (this filter requires a separate air pump but it's worth the extra cost) and a heater. Filtration and heating are necessities for bettas, and poor water quality is detrimental. Buying a water test kit will tell you everything you need to know about your fish's quality of water. If you can't afford the kit, your local fish store might be able to test the water for you if you bring a sample of it to them.
  
  
• Make sure your plastic plant is soft enough that it can't rip his fins. A good way to check is to run pantyhose over the plant, and if the pantyhose rips, the plastic is too hard. Live or silk plants are normally the way to go.
  
  I hope this helps! I know it can get a little pricey but it's more than worth it to ensure Flameo's healthy and happy.

As stated in title, Fishy is the newest member of our household.

My first instinct was to read up on bettas and in doing so, found this subreddit.

I have several doubts, such as:

• what kind of betta is this?
  
  
• Is it healthy? (Ive seen more vibrant colors on pics posted here)
  
  
• Can/Should I pair it with other fish?
  
  
• Are pellets preferred over flakes?
  
  As per suggestions on this sub, I think buying a bigger tank is my number 1 priority; im currently looking into a Tetra Tank (3 Gallons), this one is favored by my wife, as she finds its aesthetically pleasing (and I agree). However, most people suggest a 5 Gallon tank, so Im also looking into a GloFish Tank, we both dislike the blue led on this model and the black plastic lid it comes with.
  
  In any case, we're also looking to buy the following:
  
  
• heater
  
  
• Thermometer
  
  
• Silk plant
  
  
• Log/Hiding spot
  
  
• Filter * which we think we would only buy if we get the Tetra Tank, as per amazon commenters suggestions.
  
  We already have a net (for scooping), drops to dechlorinate water, aquarium salt (for cleaning) and what you see already in the tank.
  
  Please help us give this fish an awesome life!
  
  PS.: We are not in the US, if it even matters.

Thank you all so much for your patience! thoothsk is right, i should have given more information. I hate when people call me for tech support and say "my computer isnt working, can you come fix it" when they just need to load paper into their printer or some other equally as frustrating lack of detail. So here goes:

Pic Of Tank

1. 5 Gallon
   
2. It has a regular shop light style fixture that has 2 48" plant bulbs in it. something akin to these
   
3. Aqueon Filter 57 GPH
   
4. Eco Complete Substrate I think i am going to switch substrate. I do not like the eco complete. I rinsed it and rinsed it, but it still gives off dust particles. BUT the substrate shouldn't really matter, since the java fern are not planted in the substrate, right?
   
5. Liquid CO2 -yes, i know this isnt ideal, but i plan on taking this tank to work eventually, and a big rig of co2 stuff isnt going to work
   
6. Flourish and Leaf Zone doses weekly based on the guidelines on the bottle for a 5 gallon tank. I alternate days so i am not doing both of these on the same day.
   1.10G Heater so the temp is about 78
   
   So, i think that is all the answers, and again. Thank you for your patience. I should have given more details.
   
   My main question is should i throw these 6 java fern plants out, or are they salvageable in the condition they are in, if i give them time? I believe i will not order from this vendor again.
   
   
   EDIT: i have no fish in the tank. :) I have a 55G tank that i used to put lots of fake plants in because i love the look of plants, so this 5 gallon is my attempt at starting plants first. Fish when allll is well.
   
   EDIT 2:
   

• pH Level – NORMAL RANGE: but usually a bit on the higher end of normal. IL had hard water
  
• Chlorine – NORMAL RESULTS: 0.0 mg/L When i do water changes, i put in Tap Water Conditioner
  
• Ammonia – NORMAL RESULTS: 0 mg/L
  
• Nitrite – NORMAL RESULTS: about .3 mg/L
  
• Nitrate – NORMAL RANGE: about 20 mg/L
  
• Hardness – NORMAL RANGE: a little on the high side because IL has hard water.

First of all - the tank is too small for neons. So I'd take those back.

I have a similar issue with my Fluval Spec, I ended up moving the hose about halfway off the pump ad it slowed down the flow a lot. Almost made it pointless - but it still does the job. I'd see if you could do something similar with that. You could probably jerry rig some kind of spray bar out of pvc maybe?

Also I'd consider investing in a smaller heater for your betta if you haven't already.

So petsmsrt sells these 5 gallon kits for $30, (There's also a 10 gallon kit for $30, but my store doesn't usually have them). They have everything except a heater and substrate, but I've heard you can buy pool filter sand to use as substrate, which would be cheaper, and there are some heaters on Amazon you could get. I put some links and a total cost (other than substrate) below, and it comes out to about $90.

5 gallon: https://www.petsmart.com/fish/tanks-aquariums-and-nets/aquariums/top-fin-essentials-aquarium-starter-kit-40713.html?cgid=300129

Heater: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OQO69Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_sAnVAb4BGEVMS

Thermometer: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002AQIU4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IznVAbV5P8XSD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OQO69Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HwnVAbNSCPJWW

Total cost:
30×2 + 11×2 + 3.50×2 = $89

Definitely! The tank is a pretty standard rimless glass, which i bought from my LFS. The other parts I purchased online:

• Light - Mingdak LED Clip Aquarium Light
  
  
• Heater - Tetra 50-Watt
  
• Filter - AZOO Mignon Filter 60
  
  The substrate is pool sand, and the dark green moss is actually a marimo moss ball that i took apart and glued to the rock with superglue :)

Try getting him some toys that will keep him occupied while you're gone as well as crate training! He is bored, has separation anxiety, or both and would benefit greatly from crate training and toys to keep him occupied. We feed solely out of "puzzle treat dispensers", the Starmark Bob a lot being Lucy's favorite, and give her a bully stick to chew on as well. Most people seem to use filled frozen kongs since it will hold the attention of the dog longer. Another thing that would help would be to exercise more before you leave.

Address the problem of destructive behavior now before it gets worse and it will solve a lot of heartache for you and your pup!

I am thinking of getting one too! Found them on Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/StarMark-Bob-Lot-Interactive-Large/dp/B001JQLNB4)

Here is a food dispensing toy. Here are some treat and puzzle toys. Kong wobbler is also pretty good if you have larger treats/kibble.

I recommend looking into crating until she can be trusted alone

One of my favorite things to buy myself some time is what we affectionally call Bob (or the bob-a-lot by StarMark). I had my eye on one of these when I first brought my puppy home and didn't buy it for awhile but when I did it revolutionized my life. This keeps my pup busy and entertained forever. We will give her some food in the bowl for meal times but we put aside a lot of the daily food to be fed out through this. Our pup is incredibly food motivated but sometimes is super selective about what she'll chew.

First of all, thanks for saving those babies! I've never actually raised a piglet, but I know there's an underage pig Facebook page and they're very helpful. I do think piglets can start eating very milked down pellets pretty young, but, again, they would be your best resource.

When your pigs start getting older--please find a vet and get them fixed. I cannot tell overemphasize how important this step is, so I'll just leave it there. When they're old enough to get fixed, GET THEM FIXED!!

I would also recommend harness training them early on, since my 4 year old thinks his harness is the devil and won't go near one for all the cheerios in the world. Ditto car riding. Give them lots of praise (and, more importantly, treats) so they want to wear their harnesses/go places.

As far as toys go, our pig is super lazy, but he loves this for indoors and he has one of these for the yard. Either of those can keep him occupied for an hour at a time, though you might need to check in on them from time to time to make sure their ball hasn't gotten stuck or they haven't knocked anything else. (I once got out of the shower to find my entire living room rearranged because of the path the ball had taken...)

Good luck! Your pigs are lucky to have you!

As long as you tire her out every day you will not be disappointed! Welcome to the club.

It took me a few months of pushing myself to get more comfortable trusting our adult adopted ACD (adopted in Feb this year) but after I realized he's not going to take off sprinting when he's off his leash, the bond really solidified.

They are very smart and have a lot of personality. I've only been able to find one toy that mine wont destroy within a half an hour.

Above all other advice make sure you get pet insurance (I think we have healthy paws). Within a couple of months we had to have a few teeth extracted from ours before we enrolled. $700. They are hearty pure breeds, but they're still pure breeds and have genetic issues sometimes, or they just play hard and tear their ACLs often (my vet recommended fetch with a ball rather than a frisbee).

I also highly recommend agility training. My ACD loves it and can do a full hour before getting brain drain. I've been tempted to try taking him to a dog friendly sheep ranch but I don't want to unlock his heeling instincts, I'm fortunate to have an ACD that is more of a retriever than a nipper.

My less intelligent dog gets this [Starmark toy] (http://www.amazon.com/StarMark-Bob-A-Lot-Interactive-Pet-Large/dp/B001JQLNB4). I like it better than the Kong wobbler, it's much quieter.

The top end has been gnawed on a lot because I am not great about picking it up, but the toy is still more than functional, if a bit raggedy. He's not the brightest, but he's crafty and loves to dismantle things. You can adjust the difficulty if you like, which is nice.

The smarter one gets the [Kong satellite] (http://www.amazon.com/KONG-Satellite-Treat-Dispenser-Dogs/dp/B00BJZ5DMU/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1420219968&sr=1-1&keywords=kong+satellite).

It took him 3 months to destroy this one, but I bought a spare because I know him. It's a really difficult toy to solve. The hard plastic was worrisome at first, because his default solution for a new puzzle is to carry something to the top of the stairs and fling it down. He grabs the little satellites and flings this thing all over the house.

I tend to feed them in the morning with these and pick them up when they have gotten all of their food. Most of the hard plastic toys will be destroyed pretty quickly without supervision.

For a longer lasting puzzle toy to pacify them when we can't go out, I like softer toys. [This] (http://www.amazon.com/Cycle-Dog-Consumer-Recycled-Material/dp/B00FIWCJNQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1420220254&sr=1-1) one was a bit difficult but I accidentally got the big one, and they can't get their mouths around it to crush treats small enough to get out. We got [this] (http://www.amazon.com/Buddy-Squeak-Treat-Booya-Large/dp/B00MPE5FJU/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1420220442&sr=8-2-fkmr2) in a bark box and they love it. I don't love it as much because of the squeak, but squeak > stir crazy dogs.

And when all else fails, a 2 L soda bottle with a small hole cut in it is awesome. It's too big to get a good grip on, especially if you cut 2 of them in half and duct tape the bottom halves together, so it lasts a long time. And if they tear it up, it's no big deal.

My dog went through some really basic obedience classes when he was a pup, and I think it was really helpful that we put a lot of work into getting him used to walking next to us while on his leash. Honestly, he took right to the bike lead; I took him around town slowly the first few times, and that was about it. I think he knows that the bike = running, so he cooperates. Honestly the most difficult part is when he's over-excited and tries to herd my bike by nipping at my front tire.

As far as the leads, in my judgement it's best to have a lead that attaches to a mid to low section of your bike. My bike is pretty tall so I went with the Petego Spring Lead Universal Bicycle Leash and attached it to the lower section of my seat tube (below the top tube); whereas my wife went with the Walky Dog which she attaches to the rear axle of her bike. I will say that the Walky Dog is kind of nice because you can pop the lead right off the bike and use it like a leash, though if you're running two dogs the Petgo attachment has two attachment points.

Sorry that's not a lot of info, but if you have any specific questions I'd be happy to answer.

I do a lot of biking with my dogs. They run in front pulling, but next to you works too- it depends on what you want, and what the dog is more comfortable doing.

1. Use the right equipment. You must use a harness, and it must be designed for running/pulling. Even if your dog is not pulling, harnesses designed for biking will be better padded and will not restrict movement. Unpadded harnesses can quickly rub fur off, and any harness that restricts movement will cause strain on your dog's elbows and it affects the way their weight is shifted as well. Check out the Alpine Outfitters Urban Trail harness, the HDA Distance Harness, Indi Dog Vari Fit or similar. Do not use a traditional x-back unless your dog is going to be pulling consistently, it will bunch up and be uncomfortable. If your dog will be next to you, use an attachment like the Walkydog and if your dog will be in front of you use a tugline.
   
2. As a general rule, do not run on cement or asphalt. Very short rides, up to you, but hard ground means hard impact on their joints, and the abrasive surface leads to torn and blistered paw pads. A mile or two a few times a week I honestly wouldn't be concerned about but you may want to look at booties. Paw wax like Musher's Secret is great to help keep pads moisturized but does not protect well in itself from abrasive surfaces.
   
3. Yield to everyone. Dismount and hold your dog when another dog is going by head on. Dismount and hold your dog and run to pass people with dogs, using your bike as a barrier between you both and the other dog. Assume all dogs are mean, basically, as you never want your dog to say hello while working- it can lead to fights, but more commonly leads to tangles, which leads to fights. Your dog does not say hello to any human or other dog while it's attached to your bike.

I bike with all my dogs and we have run across all sorts of stuff they want to chase and I have yet to have an issue. Here is the attachment I use. I also put my dogs on our treadmill. I think you need to go a bit slower. I took everything slowly and followed the advice here.

Hey! Started doing the same w our girl too. After 6-7 rides I’ve started using a harness + this guy (Walky Dog Plus Hands Free Dog... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003OYIAW4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share)

After a few rides I’ve become a fan

I have this bike attachment for riding with my dog and I love it.

My dog is pretty good on leash, so getting him to do it on a bike was pretty easy. I did it in the following steps:

1. Put him in his harness, attached the bike lead (with no bike) and just took him for a walk with it.
   
   
2. Attached him to the bike, and walked the bike with him around the block.
   
   
3. Went for it.
   
   I don't know, it's very possible I under thought it, but it really worked pretty easily for me. No accidents so far.
   
   A couple of tips I've found:
   
   You should not pull your dog! If you start to notice it's a little harder to go, it's because he's lagging. Slow down, or let him stop. You can really get your dog up to a "sprint" on your bike, which my dog loves, but he just doesn't last very long. When I'm going fast, he can only got about 3 miles (when I started, it was about 1.5 miles). Make sure you bring water, a bowl and poop bags.

We just got a WalkyDog Plus that we're training our dog to use.

The pole attaches to your bike seat so you're free to safely keep both hands on the bike, and it keeps the dog at a distance so it can't get in front of or behind the bike. It does require training to get the dog used to moving with the bike, but so far we like it.

Even just snail pacing around an empty parking structure is more than enough to exhaust her for now. The added bonus is she's learning that paying attention to where we're steering is crucial to her safety.

The only downside so far is that if she pulls a certain way and doesn't match pace with the bike's speed, she can move the seat post attachment. But that's why we're slowly training her to keep pace with the bike.

My boyfriend used to get his boxer mix to pull him on a longboard when he was a kid to exercise his dog and it was great fun!

Biking can definitely be a bit safer if you use a specialized biking attachment like this to make it harder for the dog to topple you over.

With any pulling sport it's a good idea to get basic directional and stop commands in (especially if you don't have brakes like on a bike). We plan on doing pulling sports with our next dog and are shopping around for good harnesses to make sure he stays safe.

Hell ya! Do it all the time!

Of course, this really depends on lots of things. Do you have a safe area (not too much traffic)? How stable are you in riding? How big and strong is the dog and how much do they pull?

I used to take my dog biking all the time (hold the leash in one hand and the handlebar in the other hand). He got old and couldn't run much, so I got a cargo bike and took him everywhere:

https://youtu.be/zEY7LmnY23E

Ollie passed away and we got another dog. She is a puppy and hates the cargo bike. She wants to run! She is now 2 years old and weighs 50 lbs (black lab mix). I now take her with my e-bike. Leash in one hand, the bike handle bar in the other hand. The e-bike is awesome because it has good acceleration. Sometimes she just zooms all of a sudden and I can keep up without tugging on the leash.

But I'm a strong rider. I can keep her in control while riding 20+ miles per hour on short bursts.

My girlfriend is not a strong bike rider. So we got her one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Walky-Dog-Exerciser-strength-Paracord/dp/B003OYIAW4

This ties to my girlfriend's bicycle seat post. It stretches out and holds the dog. She takes our dog for rides with this apparatus. Works pretty good! She gets to keep both hands on the handlebars.

We got a WalkyDog and it works great:
http://www.amazon.com/WalkyDog-Bicycle-Exerciser-Leash-Hands/dp/B003OYIAW4

Keeps the center of gravity low so that they can't affect the bike travel as easily. It's just long enough to keep them away from moving bits but has enough play for some side to side.

Our huskies love them. Half the time I can just sit back and they will do most of the work :) Once they get into a run the are fairly oblivious to anything not directly in front of them. Had a rabbit jump out to the side once and I started prepping for trouble but we just ran right past.

How is your GSD with bicycles? You can train your dog to run alongside a bike with an attachment like this. Its easier on you and your husband than running for several miles but can be great exercise for you and your pup.

Our dog Suki was actually really bike reactive and we were able to get her to the point where even she can run along with the bike, so even if your dog is startled by bikes its possible to train them to be cool with running along with one.

A little bit of both. But mostly bike trails with light traffic. We sometimes jog off leash at a park thats dead empty in the morning, hell keep with me, but sometimes jog ahead maybe ten fifteen feet and look back at me, if i stop or slow hell come back to me. Also if i call he comes right away, but i havent tried to keep him at heel. Hes 0% aggressive and has no prey drive. We see squirrels all the time and he doesnt care. I would take him off leash but im worried about being rude by doing so, or be seen as non courteous to other riders. I was looking into something like this possibly? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003OYIAW4/ref=ox_sc_act_image_2?smid=A6UA4NC1RXBMR&psc=1

Before buying a whole new filter setup itself, try one of the sponge covers for a filter intake (I'll add a link in an edit in a second) they're just a couple dollars and they'll help a lot! My guy used to get stuck by the intake force alone. But he doesn't even get drawn to the thing now. I have them on all my filters!

Edit: you can probably find them cheaper but here's what I'm talking about! just put a rubber band right around it to keep it in place.

I highly suggest getting some type of foam/sponge thing to put over that filter intake. I lost a beloved ADF as a result of my oversight. His foot got stuck in one of the slats and he ended up drowning (they need to go to the surface roughly every 30 minutes to get air if I remember correctly). It was horrible taking his body off the intake :(

I'm only saying this because I don't want you to repeat what I went through.

I personally have 2 in a 2.5 gallon tank, but they are the only things living in it. So a question would be, do you plan on having other things such as fish? If you have fish, then probably 2 for 10 gallons. If not, then I could see 5 in a 10 gallon being fine.

And like u/numb3rb0y suggested, I would focus some more hides as well. Overall though, I like the tank set-up :)

I use this, which is a just a discounted version of this.

Visually it's cumbersome, but it works like a charm. If my tank were facing the other direction (I have it so the return nozzle is at the "front") it would be a lot less noticeable.

Despite the space it takes, I feel like Touch has regained part of the tank that he wasn't really enjoying, because the return current was so strong that he was getting a little blown around in there.

I actually use that filter on one of my 10 gallons as well, provides lots of flow for the tank which is good, and good filtration as well. I would maybe suggest changing out the ceramic rings with ehiem media or seachem matrix media, somehting with a bit more surface area, and you would never need to worry about filtration issues. I also recommend putting one of these http://www.amazon.com/Pre-Filter-Sponge-Pack-Fluval-Aquarium/dp/B004K9A15G/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1343104756&sr=8-3&keywords=fluval+prefilter+sponge on the intake of the filter, this will keep the maintenance to a minimum, because it would clog less and the sponge provides additional surface area for beneficial bacteria, i dont have a single tank with out sponge prefilters.

they also make steel mesh prefilters.

check some out here

and here

I used these, same thing I think, worked perfectely on my Sunsun, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004K9A15G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have this one

For cats who may like it more open and has more room for big cats. Mine loves it. I just had to clean the window and cups with alcohol.

Ehm, I'm just thinking out loud here now, wouldn't it be amazing
if the programs that let you surf the world wide web would include
some feature to save links to pages you want to review later?
Like for this instance, the www.amazon.com part is quite easy.
but http://www.amazon.com/Sunny-Seat-Window-Cat-Bed/dp/B005AUM8U0 is not an easy string of characters to remember,

Like if it were a book, you have a strip of paper you put between the pages so you know where to open, only for the internet.
hmm, maybe a list feature where you can save internet addresses for easy access, we could call it pagesaves, pagemarks or maybe bookmarks!
/s ;]

Every cat I've met loves this window perch! You wouldn't think the suction cups on the glass would hold an adult cat, but it's surprisingly sturdy.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005AUM8U0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&m=A2QRXZ1I1ZJ1I7

https://www.amazon.com/Omega-Paw-Self-Cleaning-Litter-Pewter/dp/B005E2S77C

Low tech version that's much more affordable

If the item comes in a marked box, Amazon tell you. I just bought this tonight:

http://www.amazon.com/Omega-Paw-Self-Cleaning-Litter-Pewter/dp/B005E2S77C/

See where it says "This item's packaging will indicate what is inside. To cover it, select Ship in Amazon box on the checkout page"?

There's an option during checkout to have the marked box put inside a plain box:

http://i.imgur.com/2IOFOta.png

So there you go, no worries needed. Selecting that option doesn't add to the cost (I tried it, for science)

This will probably only apply to "sold by and shipped from Amazon" and "fulfilled by Amazon" items FWIW.

Almost everything has been covered, but may I suggest this litter box?

http://www.amazon.com/Omega-Paw-Self-Cleaning-Litter-Pewter/dp/B005E2S77C

At first, I had one of those boxes where it has the mesh segment that you lift up to sift, but then you have to pour all the litter into the other tray and stuff. It's a mess. It's one of the reasons I had never really wanted a cat to begin with until my wife brought home our two little furballs; I hated scooping litter.

I got this one and it's fucking genius. All you do is flip it over and all of the poop and clumps are in the little pull out drawer. It's goddamn magical.

http://www.amazon.com/Omega-Paw-Self-Cleaning-Litter-Pewter/dp/B005E2S77C/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1369887043&sr=1-2&keywords=litter+box

best thing ever

Over the weekend, my bf and I drove to a huge hunting and fishing store (Cabela's) to try on chest waders for our fishing trip with my dad later this month. The bf was able to find some that fit, but the entire store did not contain a single small chest wader for me to try on. The mediums were much too big, but I really wanted to at least try on a small to make sure it was the size for me. :(

Got my cat a new litter box. It doesn't seem to be living up to the glowing reviews at the moment, but maybe I'm doing it wrong or put it together wrong or something.

At least I got the KAL hydra mitts cast on and going strong this weekend.

I'm sorry for the dad comment. That was really not my place even though that bothers me because my cats are the only thing in my house to keep me sane from nMom.

Here's the link. Sorry, it was cheaper in December ):
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005E2S77C/ref=redir_mdp_mobile/189-7810061-8584836

Get a [check valve](Marina Plastic Check Valve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002AQIAO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.jceAbW5X9VMS) for the sponge filter/air pump tubing so the water doesn’t go back into the pump.

You need an [API freshwater master test kit](API FRESHWATER MASTER TEST KIT 800-Test Freshwater Aquarium Water Master Test Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5kceAb9WH26C1) to keep track of ammonia/nitrite/nitrate as you cycle your tank and throughout the life of your tank.

[Dr. Tim’s ammonium chloride](DrTim's Aquatics Ammonium chloride - 2 oz bottle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006MP4QG6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9lceAbCE3EDN2) is optional because you can buy pure ammonia for cheaper at the grocery store, but I used it. It’s an easy way to start and maintain your fishless cycle. Just add 4 drops per gallon of water to bring the ammonia up to 2ppm.

Hi there,

Please consider my revised additions/changes to your lists as I see some things that could be better/improved. - - - - - PLEASE FISHLESS CYCLE!!!!!- - - -- - http://injaf.org/articles-guides/beginners-guides/the-nitrogen-cycle-and-the-fishless-cycle-getting-your-aquarium-ready-for-fish/

DO NOT BUY that 5g TALL Marina brand tank (I had the smaller 3g version in the past and ended up ABSOLUTELY HATING it because of the built-in internal filter compartment that took space away from the betta + was a pain to maintenance + the flow was difficult to modify)...

I HIGHLY HIGHLY RECOMMEND THE FOLLOWING TANK KITS!!! (They're even cheaper than your other mentioned options and far better for the betta by providing it with much more HORIZONTAL SWIMMING SPACE:

https://www.petsmart.com/fish/starter-kits/top-fin-essentials-aquarium-starter-kit-5262256.html it's ON SALE NOW AT TIME OF MY COMMENT FOR JUST $24.

THE TOPFIN 10g KIT IS GREAT TOO! - FOR JUST $45.49 (Right now at time of comment) - https://www.petsmart.com/fish/starter-kits/top-fin-essentials-aquarium-starter-kit-5262353.html

• FILTER options for the 5.5g/10g tank kit above:
  
  

1. EITHER the included TopFin HoB filter from the tank kits above - modified via: https://i.imgur.com/QYNiVEV.mp4 - Ditch the carbon cartridge (once you get the stuff to mod the filter) and go for the following supplies: - https://www.amazon.com/Aqua-Clear-A1370A1-Aquaclear-20-Gallon/dp/B0006JLO5K/ - https://www.amazon.com/Aqua-Flo-Aquarium-Filter-Media-Thick/dp/B01J5MV86S/ - https://www.amazon.com/3IN1-BIO-SPONGE-Biochemical-Sponge-QUACLEAR/dp/B00VPL0V0W - The pre-filter intake sponge that you had in your list would be good for this HoB filter that's included in the 5.5g/10g TopFin Essentials kit.
   
2. OR this SPONGE FILTER setup (my absolute favorite, HIGHLY HIGHLY RECOMMEND): - https://www.amazon.com/Powkoo-Double-Biochemical-Aquarium-Gallons/dp/B01M3VALFU/ - Petsmart: TopFin Quartz Bioballs (they are perfectly sized to fit into the two dual filter media chambers of the sponge filter I recommended above, plus come in a nice plastic canister for storage). - https://www.amazon.com/U-picks-Aquarium-Gallon-Quietest-Accessories/dp/B07RRNDMXJ/ <--The perfect mini and quiet airpump kit + all accessories to hook up to the sponge filter and run it (quiet airpump, check valve + airline tubing) - (If you have questions about setting this sponge filter stuff up, ask me once you have all the parts in hand. It's very easy.)
   
   

• BETTA FOOD: NorthFin Betta Bits (click link), Hikari Bloodworms (high quality w/ added vitamins), AND ZooMed Betta Dial-A-Treat (3-in-1 treat wheel) (DO NOT BUY THE TETRA RIVER SHRIMP - THOSE ARE FARRRR TOO BIG for tiny betta mouths).
  
• Dr. Tim's Ammonia drops for FISHLESS CYCLING!!!!
  
• PLEASE consider Seachem Prime (500 ml will last you a VERY long time for just 2 drops per gallon, for the 5.5g tank) - FAR more effective and requires less drops per gallon than almost any other dechlorinator brand (toss/remove that Tetra betta safestart, such a tiny bottle and not as effective for the cost).
  
• Seachem Stability - Excellent bacteria starter for new tanks to nitrogen cycle Dr. Tim's version might work too but I have no experience with it, as I put my trust in Seachem's brand.
  
• Alternative Thermometer - nice magnetic attachment feature
  
• DO NOT buy that 18 lb gravel - those pieces are HUGE, the description says 1 to 2 inch per piece, and that will trap debris and waste so badly and you certainly won't be needing 18 lbs of that stuff for the 5.5g tank I recommended. https://www.amazon.com/Spectrastone-Shallow-Regular-Freshwater-Aquariums/dp/B001OTSPDA/ You'll just need TWO of this pack, and may NOT need all 10 lbs of it but best to get at least 8-10 lbs of this smaller gravel - you should set the tank up with no more than 1-2 inches thick of the gravel. Sand is ok too, but I have no personal experience using it, and it might be difficult to siphon sand since it's so fine it might get sucked up if you try to gravel vac it...
  
• PLANTS!!!!
  
  • biOrb makes great silk plants. A great value - 2 plants per pack for about $14-$15: https://www.amazon.com/biOrb-Plant-medium-green-purple/dp/B003KGBJ06 <-- my two bettas LOVE these! I always catch them lounging on the big broad leaves. AND the shorter ones for foreground: https://www.amazon.com/biOrb-Plant-medium-green-purple/dp/B003BG2TEA/ (as you can see, I'm kind of a fan of the BiOrb silk plants xD haha! They're really great and my bettas do like lounging around on them). My Hikaru can vouch for the BiOrb silk plants (lol look who didn't want to have his nice nap on the BiOrb silk plant leaf disturbed): https://i.imgur.com/7miG7h5.mp4
    
  • Here’s my two tanks (see the silk plants and my sponge filters that I recommended, in action): https://i.imgur.com/ty9t3RJ.mp4 And https://i.imgur.com/x7VLj4l.mp4
    
  • However, live plants would be even better... there are some beginner ones like Marimo moss balls (get at least 3-4), java moss, Java Fern, etc. READ ON for more info and where to buy: r/AquaSwap - lots of plants sold there OR here: https://buceplant.com/collections/aquarium-plants
    
    About live aquatic plants:
    
    https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/wiki/plantsetc
    
    https://www.petmd.com/fish/care/5-live-aquarium-plants-even-beginner-can-care
    
    https://modestfish.com/best-beginner-aquarium-plants/
    
    https://www.aquariumcoop.com/blogs/aquarium/top-5-easy-aquarium-plants
    
    https://www.theaquariumguide.com/articles/10-best-freshwater-aquarium-plants-for-beginners
    
    **** ALSO anything I hadn't commented on from your original list to offer alternatives = fine by me, keep them in your to-buy list :)

I would actually establish his 5-gallon tank with a fishless cycle, and set him up a small temporary "hospital tank" to treat the fin rot in the meantime.

I always prefer to move my fish to a small, bare tank for medication that doesn't have an established filter, because medication can crash your cycle. So for his permanent home, I would start on a fishless cycle by setting everything up with the gravel, filter, etc and add some ammonia like this to get the fishless cycle going. You can follow the directions on the bottle and use your water test kit to test for ammonia in the water to determine when the cycle has established, and ammonia levels are safe again.

While the tank is cycling, set up a medicated hospital tank (in fact you can do this now before you set up his man tank so that you can start treating his fin rot before it gets too severe.) Set up a small bare tank with a heater set to about 80 degrees fahrenheit/about 26 celcius. Add a little freshwater aquarium salt, and dose an antibacterial medication like Melafix for the fin rot.

Hospital tanks shouldn't have carbon filters, since carbon will just remove medications. You simply need to do daily water changes with clean, treated water (I recommend Seachem Prime for dechlorination and removing heavy metals. Even better if the water is also carbon filtered.) Remember when you change water you have to add medication and salt back in. You can add a small sponge filter to a hospital tank if you want just to keep water flowing and to filter out debris, I use this little filter for my hospital tank.

Lastly, but still very important: When you move him, you'll have to acclimate him slowly. Bag him up in a Ziplock bag with the water from his vase. Float the bag in the hospital tank (preferable already at 80 degrees) so that he can slowly acclimate to the temperature, and add a little bit of the hospital tank water to his bag every 5 to 10 minutes. I would take about 30 minutes to let him acclimate before releasing him in the tank. Acclimation is important because temperature and parameter change can cause shock.

What a tough little guy. I'm impressed he's been able to pull through in these terrible conditions. That water must be absolutely toxic. Best of luck to you in helping him pull through!

https://www.amazon.com/DrTims-Aquatics-Ammonium-chloride-bottle/dp/B006MP4QG6/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=dr+tims+ammonia&qid=1551172849&s=gateway&sr=8-1


I have been using this with no issues

http://www.amazon.com/DrTims-Aquatics-Ammonium-chloride-Aquarium/dp/B006MP4QG6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1418867330&sr=8-5&keywords=ammonia&pebp=1418867343024

I've heard good things about this stuff but be aware that if you test your water using the API freshwater kit it won't be able to detect the low ammonium levels (NH4) only ammonia (NH3) so I would just follow the directions on the bottle and only test for nitrites.

it's my pleasure. you can find plain ammonia at wal-mart. just make absolutely certain-- CERTAIN-- you only use ammonia that is free from dyes, fragrances, and surfactants (soap). you can also buy this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006MP4QG6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 it's unspoiled ammonia in a dropper bottle. also make sure you have this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000255NCI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 don't use strips for testing as they're unreliable.

Then it was likely just widely different water parameters. Anyways if you want to seed ammonia I recommend this 6$ thing off amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006MP4QG6/ . Yeah it's a smallish container compared to what you can buy in stores, but finding straight ammonia is pretty hard. (Alot of them have soap and crap in them). This stuff works pretty good for seeding it. Im currently cycling two 10g with it right now.

Also throwing fish in to seed ammonia is being impatient lol. You're risking fish for the benefit of not having to wait 3-6 weeks.

Thank you!

Mr. Aqua 12g Long Tank (standard glass)

Keynice Digital Thermometer

NICREW ClassicLED Plus

Hygger Submersible Heater

Fluval C2 Power Filter

Dr. Tims Ammonia Chloride (for cycling)

Vintage Dark Brown Console Table (for stand)

(Seachem Flourite, Standard Aquarium Gravel, Polished River Rocks, Black Glass Rock, Blue Glass Rock)

(Monte Carlo, Dwarf Hair Grass, Red Pearl Amazon Sword)

We had the same issue and a combination of three things worked with us.

1. Enzyme Eliminator: http://www.amazon.com/Professional-Strength-Stain-Odor-Eliminator/dp/B00CKFL93K. I had success with Nature's Miracle as well.
   
   
   
2. S-Coe (the most amazing remove any odor eliminator in the entire world you can seriously bathe a skunk in this stuff!): http://www.scoe10x.com/
   
   
   
3. Scent Masker (this stuff is amazing, but get the Heavy Duty or the black label only): http://febreze.com/en-us/products/products-by-type/noticeables

https://www.amazon.com/Rocco-Roxie-Supply-Co-Professional/dp/B00CKFL93K/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=UZKBMTDUW8W1&keywords=cat+urine+enzyme+cleaner&qid=1550497354&s=gateway&sprefix=cat+urin%2Caps%2C136&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

This is the best spray I have ever used. I have two cats. You can purchase a larger amount. It should take care of the cat urine smell even if it is dry.

This stuff works wonders.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CKFL93K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Eb.WDbP7G1KA1

My daughter had pet dumbo rats that got loose in her room and it took 3 weeks to catch them. They pooped and peed everywhere and it made her quite sick with a respiratory infection!

We put out humane traps that we got from Amazon to catch them with banana and peanut butter in them for bait. It took about 3 tries to get themrat trap both.

We then used this cleaner to get rid of the left over feces and urine smell. enzyme cleaner

And the fruit fly infestation needs addressed ASAP! Make sure there is no standing water in the kitchen or other sinks, food left out, fruit left out uncovered, and you hang up multiple strips and change them often and move them around so they don’t start avoiding them. We used this kind over our rabbit cage and sink. fruit fly trap

All you can do is disinfect, deep clean, air the place out and really focus on humanely catching the pet rat and rehoming it or getting it a safe cage/aquarium home with lid.

Good luck and I hope you can get things improved for you and everyone. ❤️

First step is cleaning and vet. Take both cat's to the vet because sometimes this behavior is due to bladder infections, kidney issues, UTI's.. etc. It is essentially them saying "Hey something is wrong".

Get a good Enzymatic Cleaner and start scrubbing. Everywhere they have peed on the floor (or pooped). Buy or use a good scrub brush and some rubber gloves and just get it really good.

Next step is to clean out the litter boxes and put fresh litter in both (you really should have 2, 1 for each cat) but save some poop (just one scooped bit) from them and put it in the fresh one. It kind of helps them with association. Make sure the litter boxes are big enough for the cat's (1.5 cat lengths long and 1 cat length wide). Also make sure they are in low traffic areas of the house or covered (even kitties like privacy).

If none of this works then I honestly don't know what else to do. This is all the things I have done and they have worked in the past when we had kitties that had bathroom issues. Good Luck :)

This is what I use on my 3 gallon half moon.

This is the one I used!

After you clean it with enzyme cleaner I would hide mothballs around the area (cats hate the smell). Is the specific spot the piss on somewhat private (meaning it’s a corner and the can back into it and feel safe peeing there)? If so you can place objects there to discourage them. Some cats hate aluminum foil you can try that in the spot. This worked for us to keep the cats ways from the front door (one likes to runaway): PetSafe SSSCAT Spray Pet Deterrent, Motion Activated Pet Proofing Repellent for Cats and D... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0721735K9/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_tai_8ddSAb...

1+ Sssscat! I bought one of these to train my kitties and it worked great. Not too expensive, but well worth the money I paid for it. Just remember it's there cause it'll scare the crap out of you sometimes if you forget!

https://smile.amazon.com/PetSafe-Deterrent-Activated-Repellent-Environmentally/dp/B0721735K9/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1PBLRC78I3568&keywords=ssscat+spray+system&qid=1570283023&sprefix=ssscat%2Caps%2C125&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFNWlBORlQxUThFTzUmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAwNDQzNDYxNVdFSUFSNldLTUFMJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAwNDAyODEyUVhVOU9JSk43VUNFJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

PetSafe SSSCAT Spray Pet Deterrent, Motion Activated Pet Proofing Repellent for Cats and Dogs, Environmentally Friendly https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0721735K9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HfgSDbEKZW68Q

We use Ssscat motion activated air sprayers to keep our critters away from places they're not supposed to be. You don't need to buy the proprietary refills, just get canned air from the office store. The cans are universal fit.

We've been using these things for years. There is also another version by a different company we found on Amazon that also beeps so you can use it even when the canned air runs out. I couldn't find the link for it at the moment though, but it is worth seeking out.

This is the original Ssscat. They are worth it.

PetSafe SSSCAT Spray Pet Deterrent, Motion Activated Pet Proofing Repellent for Cats and Dogs, Environmentally Friendly https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0721735K9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CQg7AbV1EYM04

Cats are territorial and an invader can stress out your cat and cause problems so it's a good idea to deal with the problem quickly or this may cause your cat to "mark" its territory (your house) to feel safe.

You can either capture the younger cat in a cage and send to the local pound or use what are generally called motion-detecting air repellents to keep the cat from entering your yard. It will take a little detective work to figure out where the cat is entering your yard, but a few cans placed in common entrances will blast some air when the cat comes near and keep him away. This requires a bit of a time and a monetary investment but it's better than seeing your handsome cat getting stressed or hurt.

As for your poor fella, there are cat doors with special microchips that ensure only your cat comes in the house if that's an option.

You could try bitter apple spray which shouldn't harm the plant itself but will smell and taste bad to discourage her from chewing. I know you said that you haven't seen her doing it but you could get a water spray bottle to squirt when she does...

They also make spray motion sensors. So something battery powered you'd put in the pot next to the plant that will mist or squirt water if sensed motion too close to the plant. These are specifically made for pets who chew plants

Edit: here is a link to the motion spray: PetSafe SSSCAT Spray Pet Deterrent, Motion Activated Pet Proofing Repellent for Cats and Dogs, Environmentally Friendly https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0721735K9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_snY0CbPFPRFEG

Punishing a cat is not a very effective deterrent. They rarely make the connection between what YOU think they've done wrong and the action that you take against them; to them, it just ends up looking like you've gone psycho and are attacking them for no reason.

I've found that it's best to have something up there that deters them the second they land after the jump. Foil, as u/DJEricDanger mentioned is a decent option. Sticky-side out tape loops are also very effective, tho they can get stuck on the cat's paws so they're best used when you're home. Aluminum cans with beads inside, strategically placed where the cat usually jumps up so that they'll get knocked over can work, too. Scat mats are great, also.

All of those can be pretty unsightly, tho. THIS, on the other hand, takes up very little space and I've found it to be extremely effective (and entertaining):

https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Deterrent-Activated-Repellent-Environmentally/dp/B0721735K9/

This also disassociates YOU from the deterrent so that you're not the Bad Guy/Gal. You can even sweep in and "rescue" them immediately afterwards and be the hero... or run out of the Kitchen screaming and then seek comfort with your fellow furry victim of this senseless violent attack! 😃

I think you're combining the Ssscat with timed air fresheners.

Not sure where you keep your switch, but when we tried to keep our cats out of a certain area we used a motion activated can of air:
https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Deterrent-Activated-Repellent-Environmentally/dp/B0721735K9/

Worked pretty well, cat learned not to go near that area for fear of the air.

> I don't really know how to stop it

Now ya do

She should have just used these:

https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Deterrent-Activated-Repellent-Environmentally/dp/B0721735K9/

EDIT: for the lazy: https://youtu.be/zP5gx6Bw7v0?t=69s

We bought Ssscat to keep the cats out of our bedroom at night. It kept the skittish one out of the room permanently whenever it was out (even when turned off), but the bull headed one just looked pissed off while it sprayed air at her and she knocked it over to break into our room. I think it would work wonders with a kitten as they're more impressionable. It sprays air at the cat when they trip the sensor and that's it. Makes the cat jump and run off and eventually you might not even need air or batteries in it to scare kitty off. Citrus is also supposed to be loathed by kitties but, again, the bull headed one doesn't care. LOL Good luck with kitty. :)

I hope all works out with your cycle and you get some answers on it soon, too. It's always frustrating when you're trying to conceive and your cycle decides to do something wonky.

I’d get a motion activated deterrent spray to put near the tree. When the cat gets close, it’ll spray a puff of air to scare the cat away. The cat won’t want to come near the tree, and won’t associate you with scaring it (unlike spraying them with a squirt bottle)

Wrap wires with these Rancco Wire Protectors Headphone... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077JQ1N7Q?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Or spray them with Bitter Apple or No Chew

Or put one of these where she jumps up PetSafe SSSCAT Spray Pet Deterrent, Motion Activated Pet Proofing Repellent for Cats and Dogs, Environmentally Friendly https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0721735K9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_UZqEDbH0J6ZYJ

We use SSSCAT Spray Pet Deterrent to keep our cats from coming up the stairs. So far so good.


Use duster cans for the refills. They're not as powerful, but the Petssscat refill cans are way overpriced.


If you find a substitute can that is a good price and just as powerful as the original cans, come back here and let us know!!

I've posted this before, and it's a great list! Originally posted by u/manatee1010 and I have tried several:

I keep this list of brain toy links handy to send to friends who get dogs. It's getting pretty long...

Toys that get stuffed with food and frozen:

• Kong Classic (15-20 minutes) (it sounds like Watson is lukewarm toward this… have you tried mixing a spoonful of canned food in with some kibble and freezing it?
  
  
• Zogoflex Toppl Interactive Treat Dispensing Dog Toy (this can be a stand-alone toy, or if you get a big one and little one they can fit together and dispense kibble) (15-20 minutes)
  
  
• Starmark Pickle Pocket (my big dog really likes this one… we put cheese in it) (20-25 minutes)
  
  Kibble dispensing toys, hard material (good for carpeted areas)
  
  
• Bob-A-Lot (~10 minutes… this one can be adjusted to make it harder)
  
  
• Tug-A-Jug (10-30 minutes, depending on the dog)
  
  
• Magic Mushroom (10-30 minutes, depending on the dog)
  
  
• Kong Wobbler (~5-10 minutes)
  
  
• IQ Treat Ball (~10-15 minutes)
  
  
• Pet Zone IQ Ball (this is the ONLY toy my dogs can’t get all the kibble out of. They’ll usually persist for half an hour or so before they give up)
  
  
• Buster Cube (I think this has several difficulty settings… my guys now don’t have one of these, but my dog when I was growing up had one. I’d guess this is probably a 20-30 minute toy depending on difficulty and what you load into it)
  
  
• Treatstik – I have NO idea how long this one takes to load, but it’s on my to-purchase list because it seems like it’s one of the longer lasting toys on the market. If anyone has/gets one, I’m super interested to hear about it!
  
  Kibble dispensing toys, soft material (good for hardwood/tile/laminate)
  
  
• Barnacle (this can be stuffed like a Kong as well… I lost this one when I moved but I think in terms of kibble dispensing it was shorter lasting, maybe 5-10 minutes)
  
  
• Tricky Treater (I REALLY like this one; super easy to load and clean, lasts 10-15 minutes)
  
  
• Tricky Treat Ball (another super easy one… <5 minutes)
  
  
• Planet Dog Orbee-Tuff Snoop Treat Dispensing Dog Toy – this one just arrived yesterday so I don’t have a solid rating of its durability yet, but so far it seems great… easy to load, takes the dogs awhile to empty, and super duper quiet.
  
  
• JW Pet Company Treat Puzzler Dog Toy (this one is super easy for them to empty… I’d say 3-5 minutes)
  
  
• PetSafe Busy Buddy Kibble Nibble Meal Dispensing Dog Toy (this one is okay, not my favorite… I didn’t like that I had to make a decision about cutting it immediately after opening. It takes ~5-10 minutes to unload)
  
  
• Starmark Treat Dispensing Puzzle Ball - this one is new! I almost bought it the other day but haven't yet; I think it's most similar to a Buster Cube in terms of adjustable difficulty, it's just a softer material.
  
  Time-release kibble dispensing toys (good for work days)
  
  
• the Foobler is great because it works on a timer that rotates to the next of six, ¼ cup food hoppers at set intervals of time (you pick, the options are 15-30-60-90 minutes), which makes it last way longer than most of these toys. This is hard plastic.
  
  
• CleverPet – this has a December release date. I’m way pumped about it and have been in touch with the company… hopefully I’ll be getting one of the first models off the line!
  
  Lastly, there are also these two that I haven’t tried yet, so I’m not positive how to classify…
  
  
• Starmark Crunching Barbell
  
  
• Starmark Treat Crunching Multiball
  
  
  ETA: If you have any others you like (or don't like) that I've left off this list, please chime in!

I'm in the same boat you are, just 6 months in. Never had a dog before, always a cat person. Here's what I've learned (so far).

1. All they want is to be with you. If she's not with you, she probably into something.
   
2. They're smart. So smart that you'll realize you're not as smart as you thought you were. I bought ours this, filled it with treats, then anxiously awaited as he tried to solve the puzzle. He just picked the whole thing up and flipped it over so that all of the treat covers fell out. "Problem" solved.
   
3. It took ours a couple months to get the "retriever" part down, but once he did.. man he brings us everything.
   
4. Give him lots of toys that he can "work" at. Kong toys with treats in them, maze balls, etc. I'm thinking of picking up something like this for ours next.
   
5. Be ready to walk. Cold, hot, doesn't matter. Golden's need exercise and love to run. On that note...
   
6. Get him out to a dog park or visit with other dog-having friends as much as you can! Not only is it great for socializing the dog, but she'll be tired out from all of the playing.
   
7. Try to curb jumping up as soon as possible. we didn't do this, and now we're kicking ourselves.
   
8. Get some training books and start as soon as you feel your pup is ready. Ours looooves being engaged and figuring out what he's supposed to do.
   
9. When she picks up something she's not supposed to, don't chase after her. Again, this is our boys favorite game now. "Oh, daddy is trying to work? I'm just going to grab this pillow and run!"
   
10. Remember that it's always your fault. Any bad behavior is the result of the dog not being told what is allowed. Positive reinforcement is always the better option!

Also a puzzle toy is an option. My little pig-dog has a tug-a-jug, which takes him a good five minutes to eat his dinner, instead of fifteen seconds.

[This bottle] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KV7ZGQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_87STAbYCHNNXY). Our girl ripped out the rope almost immediately. We put a tennis ball in the bottle and now a few tiny treats provide her hours of entertainment.

I can totally understand not wanting to leave her in her crate for so many total hours each day. First I would recommend having lots and lots of toys on hand. The idea is to try to keep her engaged as much as possible while she's out there. Dogs can get tired of toys so I suggest investing in some new ones if you can and rotate them every few days. Have lots of chew toys on hand including hooves, horns (mine loves water buffalo horns especially) and antlers. The Busy Buddy Tug-a-jug can be a great toy once they get the hang of it. People who keep dogs in their apartment will actually give them all of their chow in these (start with small sized kibble first - any ACD mix will be smart enough to figure it out quickly) and they work to get it out during the course of the day. This will tire them out not only physically but mentally as well, which is hugely important, especially for ACD's. Along these lines, find new ways to engage her when you are home. Walks and exercise are essential but maybe start some training on new tricks (just 5-8 minutes at a time). ACD's need a job to do and helping to fulfill that in various ways can help to ease anxiety during others times of the day. It will be a process and it may not come without some trouble but it should eventually get better. I hope some of this is useful.

Wood Treat Puzzles like the ones Zanie's, Ethical Pets, and Nina Ottosson make are all ones my pit likes. Since they're made of wood they'll last a while. Also the Premier Tug-a-Jug has kept him guessing for 2 weeks now.

Here it is!
https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-26447-Submersible-Aquarium-50-Watt/dp/B000OQO69Q/ref=sr_1_4?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1511206121&sr=1-4&keywords=fish+tank+heater

(Sorry about the long link lol)
I've loved it, its been great.

For 5 gallons I love this heater, it stays at 78 degrees which is way better than "10 degrees above your room temperature" or 75 degrees. I got mine at walmart. For the filter I use a small air pump and this sponge filter. It's tiny but has both a sponge and rocky filter media, which you can replace with your own small biomax ceramic filter media. I found it could handle my betta's waste just fine.

​

edit: oops I just realized the heater I mentioned is yours haha. Mine works really well! I really haven't found a better one that's appropriate for such a small tank.

I use the Tetra Submersible for my 5g (Tetra 26447 Submersible Aquarium Heater, 50-Watt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OQO69Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_yktVRIl36l2jU). It keeps the tank at 78F and is $10

You have tons of people already going at you with the "just go for the 5 gallon" so I won't bother with that (2.5 gallon is still perfectly acceptable. I have a 1.5 gallon with a happy betta). Anyways, for filter you have a few options. I've used all of these filters as well.

Finnex Pure-5 Power Filter: https://www.amazon.com/Finnex-Pure-5-Power-Aquarium-Filter/dp/B004NP66M4

One of the very best filters for small set ups. A definite feature you'll love is the adjustable flow it has. Make sure to baffle it up if necessary. I personally use this one the most in my tanks.

AZOO Mignon Filter 60: https://www.amazon.com/AZOO-AZ13097-Mignon-Filter-60/dp/B005VEWCMO

An amazing filter that is very quiet and very powerful. Comes with a pre filter as well so your betta's fin will be super safe. Baffle it up though since it is quite powerful but it's also adjustable.

Fluval Nano Filter: https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-A455-Nano-Aquarium-Filter/dp/B004BZKDZC

This one is for when you do get a 5 gallon or bigger. This one is an amazing filter if you are willing to do some DIY on it. One of the major problems is the impeller is sometimes loose in some units and you'll have to wrap some teflon tape on it. If this bothers you, I'd skip this one but this is seriously a great filter.

Another option for filters is a sponge filter which is always cheap and readily available/easily made.

For heaters, you have a few options as well but I'll just list the ones I usually use. NOTE: I personally buy new heaters every year because the possibility of overheating still exists.

Tetra HT-50: https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-26447-Submersible-Aquarium-50-Watt/dp/B000OQO69Q

Don't let the 50 watt scare you because this one is probably one of the best and trusted non-adjustable heater. It is non-adjustable though so it will keep it at around 24-26°C.

Hydor Original Theo: https://www.amazon.com/Hydor-Submersible-Glass-Aquarium-Heater/dp/B0006JLPG8

One of the most trusted adjustable heaters. Useful for when you need to raise the temperature of your water. I haven't really used this one as much as the Tetra one but it does the job for me.

XiLong Heater: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Water-Heater-Fish-Tank-Adjustable-25-50-100-200-300-Pretty-Aquarium-Submersible-/261412637763

This one may seem like a sketchy buy but I honestly prefer it over the Hydor Original Theo. I use this for my 5 gallon and it keeps the temperature very very stable. Cheap as hell too.

My first betta tank was the 2.5 mini bow which wass pretty okay but after a few months I got a 5.5, it was actualy cheaper anyway... I did this because I would have more space for decorating and my fish looked kind of cramped in the 2.5. Also the minibow is more tall than long, and bettas prefer to swim left and right thean up and down so there's that too.

Food: get the omega one brand, not aqueon.

heater: I use(d) this in both my 2.5 and 5.5 https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-26447-Submersible-Aquarium-50-Watt/dp/B000OQO69Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500312805&sr=8-1&keywords=tetra+heater

conditioner: I use the api stress coat dechlorinator

don't waste your time with betta water, just use a water conditioner in your tap water

Setup Questions:
1.
If you're looking to have planted tank, check out real substrates that can grow plants better. I originally bought Sand by Imagitarium at Petco and thought it would work , but found out that this was just finely blended gravel and had no nutrients in the substrate.

http://aquariumadviser.com/best-substrate-planted-tank/

I am currently using the Eco-Complete and my plants seem to grow really fast in them . You can use those "Flourish tabs by seachem , but I haven't experiment them enough to see any changes . My Anubias lasted like 3 months until a plastic ornament melted one of the limbs that touched it and turned all brown and transparent. It's a hardy plant, but right now it seems to turn black from some kind of algae that's ruining the other limbs.

2.
Look into this heater. I have this in my Marineland 5 gallon and my Top Fin 10 gallon . It keeps it at a constant 78-80 degrees. It automatically turns on and shuts off by itself. Depending on the room temperature it can go up to 79-80, but the heater shuts off around 78 and just turns on and off on its own . I think its great and even have an extra one in-case I need a backup.

3.
Look up "seachem stability" as well. Prime dechlorinates water, but you still need a bacteria to help the culture of bacteria to build to keep ammonia 0 , nitrite 0 , and nitrates fine . It's a good bacteria to cycle the tank and does not require any refrigeration like other live bacteria. I've used API quick start, but it was okay. I think I needed patience which was the key. There's also Tetra safe start, and Dr. Tim's nitryfing bacteria, but all these vary if you look at reviews on different experiences.

https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-26447-Submersible-Aquarium-50-Watt/dp/B000OQO69Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500069473&sr=8-1&keywords=50w+heater

4.
Look up different bacterias like quick start, seachem stability, tetra safe-start, Dr Tim's Bacteria , and any of these should speed up and/or help your cycling process. I still add them when I do water changes as well.

5.
I originally added a betta running my tank 1 week thinking it was good, but didn't realize how long cycling can take. The problem with doing a fish cycle, is that you need a hardy fish to create ammonia to help start up the process. Some people think its not humane, since this can burn out the fish in bad waters. My original betta survived long enough and one week after it was finished cycling, he sank to the bottom (RIP Chiron).

Betta is apparently good for doing a fish cycle, since they use the air in the top of the water to breathe if the water is not cycled. Problem with this , it burns out their gills and can cause problems in the future with them . This is probably what happened to my original betta.

(As Bad as it sounds , I have a female betta in my 5 gallon I'm cycling right now and she looks worse everyday. I had to move her from the 10 gallon I had , because the other fish was picking her fins because she was a baby and still small. I'll have to see what happens next)

Maintenance :

1. 
   
   You can use sites like Aqadvisor.com and it will let you add the fish you have and the filter you have, along with the size. Choose 5Gallon and add the list of fish you have and it will tell you how many percentage is recommended depending on the stocking level you have. (This site is REALLY helpful , since lots of ppl online will say you're overstocking your tank all the time)
   
   2.
   Online instructions say:
   Use 1 capful (5 mL) for each 200 L (50 US gallons)
   
   If you have a syringe it's easier.
   
   IF 5ml is for 50Gallons, then 1mL is for 10 Gallons. Then half of 1mL is 0.5 mL for 5 gallons .
   
   Whew that's a lot of information . Let me know if you have any questions . I've had my aquarium for about 4 months now and I've done a LOT of research , so these are all my test and trials for these things and I see that I would ask these same questions and would tell you from my experience and what I've learned.
   
   If you have any other questions about plastic ornaments, I would look into real wood/decorations for a more natural aquarium, but I'm bearly getting into this and is a lot more money, research , and work .

Thanks for the response. I just checked the temperature with a food thermometer (not sure how accurate that is for this purpose) and it read 72F. A quick Google suggests this is maybe a bit lower than they prefer.

This is the heater - supposed to heat to 78F. Tetra HT Submersible Aquarium Heater With Electronic Thermostat https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OQO69Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_epTSAbZE62AQM

The main thing that makes me think it isn't just lethargy is that it really looks like he struggles to reach the surface. As though he's literally sinking - but maybe that doesn't rule it out?

I have used this heater on several small Betta tanks.

https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-26447-Submersible-Aquarium-50-Watt/dp/B000OQO69Q

It is inexpensive, and automatic.
Be careful of those slim heaters that just raise the temps x amount of degrees. This one has a built in thermostat and regulates temp automatically to about 78 degrees.

this little guy does the trick just fine
https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-26447-Submersible-Aquarium-50-Watt/dp/B000OQO69Q/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1479069667&sr=1-1&keywords=small+aquarium+heater

5g - Personally have many Chi IIs since they were very cheap when I found them and I just bought the store's stock. After around 6mo of running them I've decided I don't like them. The stock light is horrible, the stock filter is horrible. I had at first modified the filters to include ceramic biomedia from a cycled tank and I am glad I did because I found that the media that comes with the tank will quite actually fall apart when you try to clean it. Filter flow isn't strong enough to kick off debris from the bottom of the tank so you have to vac. I hate having to vac. If you want plants, you'll have to modify the light too. I ended up ditching the stock filter/light on all of them and hanging some Aquaclears on them with clip lights. Tip: You can baffle the flow of the Aquaclear by leaving the stock filter on the tank and just not running it. I've always put those cheapo adjustable Aqueon 50w heaters in these, this one. Just have to set it a little lower for the 5g.

I have a friend with a Fluval Spec V that I helped set up and his is doing well. We set it up with low light plants (lotsa java fern and water sprite) and just pointed the outflow at the glass. The water sprite baffles most of the flow that isn't baffled by the glass, but you can also put a sponge on the tip if you don't wanna get water sprite. For this tank, he went with a 25w Cobalt Neotherm which stays true to temp.

For HOB filters on every tank I have (up to 60 gallons!) I run Aquaclears. You do have to baffle it if you're putting it on a smaller tank but I promise it's really easy and takes like 10mins the first time. For heaters, I've done the aqueon one I listed above, this weird thing that is really cheap and I honestly have no complaints about or the Cobalt.

As far as lighting on a bare tank, that really depends what you want to do with the tank. Do you want a basic setup? Couple low light plants? Full carpet? Are you going to run CO2?

Same! I have the perfect heater for you. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OQO69Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Second vote for the Tug a jug, Buster Maze also the Mushroom are also good the Bobs A lot Also works great as it has variable settings for difficulty. Puzzles like this are great but they tend to be useless once the dog figures it out.

My Blanco did not eat so fast that he seemed to be getting sick, but knowing that he would enjoy being engaged for his food, we bought him this: https://www.amazon.com/StarMark-Bob---Lot-Interactive-Large/dp/B001JQLNB4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1469221369&sr=8-2&keywords=dog+food+toy

I won't say he loves it, but he knows how it works and never leaves a piece behind. I've heard of dogs getting bored/frustrated by toys like this and refusing to eat if that is how their food is served, but he has been using it for a few months now and nothing has changed yet.

Plus it gives me like twenty minutes of me-time where I don't have to worry about entertaining him.

This.

It's interactive, and it's fantastic. I put Yumi's daily serve of dry food in it, and she is far more interested in it than she is when it's in a bowl.

I second toys, toys and more toys. I actually tend to buy her Ikea toys cause they're cheap so I can replace them when she destroys them (toys will be destroyed), they're made for babies so there's nothing she can rip off and swallow, and some even have squeaky things which she loves.

Give them more toys than you can poke a stick at. Thus far, they have saved my furniture and house from destruction. Well, except for the computer chair. For some reason she's obsessed with the wheels.

Dogs need two types of exercise, physical and mental. Although what you are doing with him does have a lot of mental stimulation it's mostly physical. Spend some time every morning and evening doing some type of training, either a new trick, or reinforcing the things he already knows.

Also get toys that will keep his mind active. I feed my dog with this every evening. You could also try a Snuffle mat.

I've found that most dogs chew because they're either bored or they teething. Keeping them active both physically and mentally will help cut a lot of unwanted chewing. After that just keep consistent and when you find them chewing on something they are not supposed to chew give them something they can.

It's up to us to teach them what is or is not allowed, they eventually catch on, but sometimes it can take a bit.

We got ours a Bob-a-lot; she gets all her meals that way and loves it!

We have three not including Kongs! She gets bored easily lol.

This is my favorite one because it's really easy to change the difficulty and it's too big to get caught under the furniture.

You can change the difficulty on this one too by closing it more tightly but is pretty easy

And this is the easiest one out of the three we have but she still really likes it.

There are like hundreds more to choose from! Someone posted this and I'm probably going to pick a couple from there, too.

I would agree that settling into a routine seemed to help the most with our grey. It took about 3 months for her to settle and for the separation anxiety to fade. We also got her some puzzle toys that we give her only when we leave. She now knows that we give her a toy before we leave and we always come home. The best one I've found is this one but we also have this one and this one.

Bob-a-lot is one idea. http://www.amazon.com/StarMark-Bob---Lot-Interactive-Large/dp/B001JQLNB4

But I recommend that you practice his training for a few minutes every couple hours and then give him a toy to play with. The training will burn off mental energy and the release from training will make him eager for the toy.

We have the StarMark Bob-A-Lot and our puppy LOVES it - though it took him a while to figure it out.

I've read in a couple of places that using it for all meals is fantastic; I haven't tried doing that yet, we usually have our puppy eat all but one meal from the bowl.

StarMark Bob-A-Lot Interactive Pet Toy, Large https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001JQLNB4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vzztyb0MZ25AN

I got this one from amazon. It's pretty big, so unless you have some really high couches it should be okay. It has little sliding doors to make the food easier/harder to get out too.

I haven't had it long though, so I can't vouch for durability or anything.

• Omega Ball
  
• Flirt Pole
  
• Shuffle Treat Board
  
• Flip Board
  
• Nosework Games
  
• Fenzi Training
  
• Bob a Lot
  
• Treiball Balls

My dog gets her dinner in this. She loves it!!

It keeps her busy for a bit and helps get some of her her wiggles out at night. She does "protect" it from one cat, though. Any time Tobey comes in to the living room, she picks it up and sets it on her bed. Tobey has never shown any interest in the treat ball, but whatever.

Oh, Premier Pet makes a bunch of them - [on Amazon] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/search/ref=sr_nr_n_3?fst=as%3Aoff&rh=n%3A2619533011%2Cp_4%3APremier-Pet-Products%2Cn%3A%212619534011%2Cn%3A2975312011%2Cn%3A2975413011&bbn=2975312011&ie=UTF8&qid=1427303947&rnid=2975312011) but most pet stores carry a few of them too.

I use the Kibble Nibbler Ball for his meals, and other toys for some kibble throughout the day - he loves squirrel buddy, but I also have the waggle bone, large twist n'treat, the mushroom, and the barnacle. He figures them out fast, but it does slow his eating and make him think!

He also [loves this toy] (http://www.amazon.com/StarMark-Bob---Lot-Interactive-Large/dp/B001JQLNB4/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1427304091&sr=1-1&keywords=bob+a+lot), which is way better than the similar Kong Wobbler in that its slower to dispense and better balanced (he figured out how to get the wobbler to balance on its side and just dump the kibble out in on big pile!)

We have a beagle who is highly food motivated (doesn't play with toys unless food is involved) and the bob-a-lot is a great toy: http://www.amazon.com/StarMark-Bob-A-Lot-Interactive-Pet-Large/dp/B001JQLNB4 It is a bit heavier, and difficult to pick up with dog teeth, so probably less incline to be thrown.

I've had success with a Bob-a-Lot
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001JQLNB4/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Just put regular kibble in there and it can last a few hours

This is what I used to slow my dog down: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001JQLNB4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

He is really terrible about eating so fast he forgets to chew. Been using this for a year and have been slowly starting to phase it out as he's been doing a lot better. He got good at this toy but it still prevents him from getting more than a few pieces of kibble at a time.

You might get one of the treat dispensing balls like this one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001JQLNB4/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B001JQLNB4&linkCode=as2&tag=k9ofmine-20&linkId=I6W6RIYKDEMUWFI6
The dog really has to work at it, gives the brain a workout too, and that might divert her for one meal. And the antler is a good alternative because it takes awhile and gives teeth and tummy a workout too.

Kong is good. Get two: one to keep in the freezer and one to give to her. The frozen ones will take longer for her to get through. Put some peanut butter and treats in there and she'll be occupied for awhile.

I also have one of these things for my smart dog and it's great for her meals. I put her full serving of dry food in it and it takes her a good half hour to get everything out. It's also great because you can adjust the size of the release points to make it harder or easier for her.

Biking is the best! It's been a lifesaver with my dogs. I use the Walky Dog bike attachment and it's been amazing. My jogging speed is more like their slow trotting speed, but with the bike they get to all-out sprint. Plus my boy is fairly dog reactive but on a bike we go by so quickly that he hardly has time to notice other dogs.

Hey! Thanks for the kudos! I ride to work with him in the trailer (about 6mile round trip) every other day so that helped for sure. We have a walky dog as well that helped when he was getting antsy (but slows us down considerably) and then a few times where we could let him completely loose.

It was our first go at it, hence our short 22mile overnight. We're confident now that we can go further!

There is a thing for this! You can buy a special leash that attaches to your bike to make it easier for both of you.

https://www.amazon.com/Walky-Dog-Exerciser-strength-Paracord/dp/B003OYIAW4

Something like this. There are lots of different ones

Well, I can provide a bit of info but also hope to get a few answers myself.

I have a 4(ish) year old, 50lb aussie/bc mix. I bought a walky dog system this spring:

http://www.amazon.com/Petego-Walky-Hands-Free-Bicycle-Leash/dp/B003OYIAW4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1374676694&sr=8-1&keywords=walky+dog

and I am quite happy with it.

It is quite an advantage to have dog/leash tethered to your seat. Last weekend we were out for a ride/run and a fawn jumped out of the trees. Instead of having my arm ripped off or the bike pulled off the road, the combination of your weight on the seat and the good sized spring in the bar that allows the leash to flex kept us both under control. It is also good that the dog can't cut in front of the bike with this setup. The bar is a quick detach from the bracket so it is easy to deal with as well. Thumbs up on the product.

Now my related question. I have been unsure how far is too far for my Aussie to run. We were out for a couple of miles on the weekend and I think that is about the max without a good break at this point. I don't know know if more trips will increase range or not. So anyone been doing this long enough or have some data on how far a fit Aussie should be able to run? I would love to get up to 6-10 miles but heck, the dog has to run alongside. I am not sure that is reasonable?

I may be coming at this from a different angle, but I did NOT want my dog to pull. I thought it might teach her bad habits for on walks. So I got a dog biking apparatus with springs in it amd now she trots along perfectly!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003OYIAW4?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Just started up biking with Tigger for the first time last week. We have now been on 4 rides and I LOVE it. She loves to run and this has been a great outlet for her. Not to mention she took to it like a pro - no fear of the bike, heeled when I told her to, and so far she has not pulled me off.

We have a nice bike path near our house to ride on as well. I have only ridden on that path so far because I don't trust her on the streets. If we keep up with this I am going to buy a bike attachment this summer.

I use the Clever Cat Box: https://www.amazon.com/Clevercat-77000-Top-Entry-Litterbox/dp/B0002ZS20I

It's worked well.

We had the Clever Cat top entry litter box for a long time for this same reason and it worked awesome. But when we decided to try the Breeze system we just installed a cat door so the cats could get in and out of the bathroom without dog interference.

http://www.amazon.com/Clevercat-Top-Entry-Litter-Box/dp/B0002ZS20I

Yeah, she uses a vertical entry one, it's down below in the link. works really well, much less mess to clean up. She will go outside from time to time when I take her on walks but usually uses the litter box.

This is it on Amazon, I've found it for less in Mud Bay Granary tho so check around. Cleanest litter box I've found.

http://www.amazon.com/Clevercat-77000-Top-Entry-Litterbox/dp/B0002ZS20I

I've been thinking about getting a top entry litterbox for when my son gets mobile


http://www.amazon.com/Clevercat-77000-Top-Entry-Litterbox/dp/B0002ZS20I

If I'm understanding you properly, I had a similar problem. I took down the baby gate, got a Clevercat litter box that the dog can't get into, and got a small ikea end table to put the cat food on. So now the dog can get in the room, but can't get into the litter box or their food. Clevercat: https://www.amazon.com/Clevercat-77000-Top-Entry-Litterbox/dp/B0002ZS20I

Sometimes things changing can make cats poop outside of their litter boxes - has anything happened in the house that has changed? Baby, new person, other cat, etc.?

Also, I know it seems weird but with cats with a history of not-using-litter, vets are starting to prescribe Fluoxetine (Prozac), so you may want to discuss that with your vet in case it may make a difference.

It's best to keep the litter box in the same places - quiet places that are away from the normal pathways of people. You could even try a top-entering litter box, like this one: CleverCat. This would create his own little confined poop area.

Keep us posted! Let us know if you have any more questions.

Well, until she stops peeing outside of the litter box, I would advise you to take the covers off all of them. She's not going to want to use one uncovered box if the other cat is bullying her near it. Best to make sure she has options, just in case.

Look into getting a Clever Cat litter box.

You can take the cover off and the sides are high, to prevent a cat from bothering another cat inside, and the high sides is also good for high female pee'ers. But overall, without the lid, there's not just one small opening to get trapped inside with and lots of room to get out. Over time, you can slowly try putting the lid back on, or just put it on top when you have company over.

I didn't pay $40 for mine, but these are the shit.

Ever considered a top entry litter box? There are cheaper ones than this, or also DIY, but it would save the constant cleanup if he took to it.

1. An adult cat can probably tolerate for it about 3 days, on an infrequent basis. It is pretty dependent on the personality of your cat - some cats might act out destructively or gobble all their food. Most cats can regulate eating dry food so you can put a lot out at once. They definitely won't guzzle water for fun, so just put out an extra bowl. Destructive behavior from boredom can be managed with some interactive toys - maybe a Kong treat ball ect. Unless your cat has some issues, 1 litter box scooped once per day should be fine. I have 2 cats and we sometimes skip a day- nbd.
   
   
    
   
   
   
   
2. I spend about $10 a month for food (Taste of the Wild) and maybe the same on litter (Tidy Cats clumping) for each cat per month. So $20. I would plan on some start up costs for scratching posts, toys, and a litter pan. I tended to go high end on these: https://www.amazon.com/SmartCat-3832-Ultimate-Scratching-Post/dp/B000634MH8
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Clevercat-77000-Top-Entry-Litterbox/dp/B0002ZS20I
   
   But it's not a requirement. That scratching post is great though because it's nice and big, and indestructible. Also, I urge you to get sisal scratches because the texture is more unique. Carpet style scratchers teach your cat that similar fabrics are for scratching... As for vet visits, I would just make sure you have a credit card. A healthy cat, who doesn't go outside or get fleas/worms from other pets, is probably not going to cost you much. Spaying/neutering is a one-time expense, that may be taken care of by the shelter, and there are groups that do it for around $35-60.
   
   
   
   
    
   
   
   
   
   
3. Domestic mongrel 100%. They are going to be healthier in expectation, and I'm not a fan of the breeding industry. As for adult vs kitten - it's hard to say. Adult cats have more fixed personalities, that can include bad habits. Kittens have random personalities but you have a chance to influence them and for the two of you to gel. Look into local shelters to see if you can foster - that way you can make sure you have a good fit without committing. If you foster kittens, get at least 3. If you get a pair, you have a higher chance of keeping both.
   
   
   
   

My old guy was way too interested in the cat poop too. I would suggest you get or make a top entry litter box like this one.
https://www.amazon.com/Clevercat-77000-Top-Entry-Litterbox/dp/B0002ZS20I

Ours started digging out all of the litter onto the floor and using it there. I was so pissed! After 3 weeks of dealing with it and scrubbing the floor with natures miracle every couple of days, we bought one of these. It has definitely helped quite a bit with their bathroom behavior.

We have one similar to this.

Definitely invest in a top-entry litter box. You can just take the top off and your cat should be ok to use it. We tried this with my cat and it made a world of difference.

I use the Clever Cat box.

Ha! Friendly advice...you need a new litter box with taller walls. Something like a Clever Cat litter box.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002ZS20I/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487757291&sr=8-1&keywords=clever+cat+litter+box

It's not cheap but it is worth the money!

This wouldn't work for me. One of cats loves to dig. Before I started giving her access to the back yard, she would spend up to a half hour at a time just digging in the box. Even the boxes with a flap couldn't keep the litter in the box. I ended up making one of these (http://amzn.com/B0002ZS20I) out of a $5 Sterilite container, and it works perfectly. Very little litter gets out of the box at all.

I'm still new but this is what I have read:

I'm getting this heater for my betta. Although this heater is cheaper and has some decent reviews; link also lists other simular ones. I'm getting the more expesive one listed in the first link, cause I like that it atcts like a heater and thermomiter.

As far has plants go, if you get faux, make sure they are silk and don't have any sharp or rough edges on them or it could tear your fishes fin. I have read that one good test is to take the plants and decorations and run them through a panty hoe. If it doesn't cuase a run, it's safe. Live ones are better since they help get rid of toxins. Having a 1-3 real Marimo balls are always good. If your new to tank keeping I would search for plants that work well in low light, and can handle brackish water incase you need to do a salt treatment.

Get the API Fresh waster master water tester. Strips are ok, but not uber accurate sometimes and can end up costing more money.

Seen some people say they like the Fluval tanks, just have to adjust the filter so the current isn't too strong for the betta and might have to mod it to get a heater in the filter bit. I currently have a 2 gallon, but eventually would like to get him in a 5 gallon. I would not go bellow 2- 2.5 gallon.

I give my betta fish frozen brine shrimp; just one a day. Some people do the flakes and pellets, but frozen food is better. you have to be careful not to over feed them, or they will bloat and get swim bladder issues. Feeding them a blanched deskind peice of pea helps keep them regular.

Again, i'm still really new to betta fish, but this is what I have read online. The sticky INFO: Betta Care Sheet has a lot of good info to read.

Actually, you can get an adjustable heater for small aquariums. The Hydor Theo (Canadian Amazon link!) is what I have in all of my 5g Betta cubes. They're rated for 2-7g tanks and are by far the best purchases I've made for my bettas.

Non-adjustable heaters aren't worth the money. Water temps that fluctuate constantly is stressful for any fish and should be avoided.

The 25w Theo is available at US Walmarts for $19.

Sure! It's a Fluval Chi, five gallon tank. I am not using the stock filter/light.

Currently, I have a HOB filter (hang on back), but I have a sponge filter coming tomorrow. I have berried shrimp, so I need to change it out. Also, I find the HOB creates too much current. I wasn't planning to use it long term. I got this tank for free from a friend, so I just set it up with whatever I had lying around.

I am using an Eheim 50 watt heater on the tank, which is serious overkill. I'm only using it bc that's what I have. A 25 watt heater would be more than sufficient. This is what I have in the other tank:

Hydor 25W Submersible Aquarium Heater - Original Theo https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006JLPG8/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_rMMrub08HC07X

This is the sponge filter I'll be using:

6.2" Height Fish Tank Aquarium Bio Sponge Filter Black w Air Input Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E6PP36G/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_6MMrub1C6PG0F

For substrate, I'm using black blasting sand with root tabs.

Lighting is clamp light with a 60 watt equivalent 6500K bulb.

Stock is RCS and two kinds of snails, ramshorn and MTS.

I dose Excel and K, there are too many kinds of plants to list them all but a few are:
pygmy chain sword, bacopa, red camomba, hornwort, duckweed, java moss, guppy grass, and that's all I can remember ATM.

I have a 5 gallon I’m selling with a light, heater, and HOB filter for $60 so definitely put your zip code! But before I upgraded my tank I had a simple sponge filter with air pump from amazon, a Nicrew light, and driftwood from a local store that cost me $10... in total my first set up was... air pump , sponge filter , Nicrew light (that was $14 when I got it...) and the tank $10, lid $10, driftwood $10= about $8”:) or you can do this HOB heater

Oh and for plants in this sub, there’s tons of people that sell good, tons of plants, good priced! I got TONS OF PLANTS for $20-$30 from bquad. But he isn’t the only one

Yes. The more plants the better!

If you're looking for suggestions, the best heater ive found is https://www.amazon.com/Hydor-Submersible-Glass-Aquarium-Heater/dp/B0006JLPG8/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=Hydor+Submersible+Glass+Aquarium+Heater+-+Original+Theo&qid=1557360095&s=gateway&sr=8-2

You can buy used for $15.

Java moss, java fern, anubias and moss balls are really easy to care for.

The bigger the tank the fewer the water changes.

You can get water tested at the pet store, dont buy water test strips (theyre not accurate), and if you can, the master freshwater test kit is the best.

Betta can live for 7 years with proper care. They are incredibly hardy, and even with poor conditions, they can survive for years, and the pet stores capitalize on this. It is much more profitable to sell you a fish repeatedly like a decor item, with high mark up little tanks than it is to sell fewer fish with good setups.

Just wanted to point out that while it's true that a 10g setup would cost roughly the same as a 5g, but sometimes space is a factor.

With that in mind, you can expect to spend roughly $40-60 depending on where and how you're shopping. Currently PetSmart has 5.5g and 10g tanks that come with an LED hood for $30, and PetCo has the $1 per gallon sale (10g minimum) if you're looking for a convenient route.

You should decide if you'd like live plants or not. That will determine many factors for your tank, such as what kind of substrate and lighting. Having a planted aquarium doesn't mean it'll be high maintenance or high cost, and going planted is almost always the better choice over artificial. That being said, a betta can live just fine in a tank with fake decorations.

Tank: $10-30 At my LFS, a 5.5g rimless is about $11. At a place like Petco/Petsmart, you're probably looking at $15-25. You should probably check out your local Craigslist while you're at it, too.

Substrate: $5-20 There's a lot of variety here.
Sand. Gravel. Rocks. Out of these three, I prefer sand. Some plants can still grow in it, it looks nice and is easier to keep clean since fish poop doesn't migrate to the bottom of the tank as much as with gravel/rocks.

If you're tight on a budget but would like lots of plants, check out the Walstad Method, which uses potting soil (organic) capped with sand, uses natural lighting and low/no maintenance plants. This method would probably set your back about $10-15 in substrate and plants.
If you've got a little extra money and want plants, you can buy soil made for aquariums (found in actual fish stores, not Petco/Petsmart), CaribSea (~$20 for 10lbs), etc.
Mix aquatic soil and sand or rocks if you'd like a compromise. For my heavily planted 5g, I used 2 liters of Mr. Aqua soil (~$20) and black sand ($3) to give you an idea.

Filter: $10-15 Sponge filters are dirt cheap and fool-proof, but require an air pump and some tubing. Some people prefer a hang-on-the-back filter; I use this one ($12) and stuff the insides with a sponge and ceramic media (I don't buy the refill cartridges). HOBs like this are advantageous because you can customize the filter media.

Heater: $10-15 Hydor 25w, $15 will do just fine for a 5g. There are cheaper ones, but keep in mind that many cheap heaters aren't adjustable and/or don't have light indicators or built in thermostats. If that's okay with you, then by all means.

Light: $0+ If you're not doing plants, no light is necessary. If you're doing the Walstad method or just have low light plants, you just need natural light or a lamp. If you're growing plants (other than moss/anubia/java), you can use a desk lamp but you'll want to look into getting some daylight (like 6500k) compact fluorescent ($5?) or LEDs. There are special lights that sit or clip on your tank made for growing plants, but they're more expensive at around $40+.


Thermometer: $1-3 Anything more than that's probably a waste.

Decoration/Plants: $5+ Just make sure no decorations have rough or sharp edges. It would be nice to give him a hiding spot, some people just use a small clay pot for plants. If you're going planted, you should check out anubias and java moss/ferns, as they don't require substrate or much lighting to thrive, and can be found anywhere.

Check out /r/AquaSwap and you'll find people selling plants, and you'll often find kind members who will just give you trimmings you can propogate yourself for free if you cover shipping ($5-7, usually), all you need to do is ask. It probably wouldn't be hard to find someone who could sell you equipment and accessories (new or established sponge filters, regular filters, heaters, etc) for a decent price.

I got this same tank for Christmas and plan on making it a shrimp tank. I ordered some eco-complete off of Petco.com, since their shipping option was the cheapest. It was poorly packaged, but arrived quickly and intact. I ordered a Hydor 25 Watt Heater because it'll fit in the back area. One thing to consider if you're planning on putting the heater back there, is making a modification to the flow tube so the heated water circulates more evenly. This also helps keep the flow rate lower so bettas and shrimp don't stress out from the hight current. Also, keep in mind that keeping shrimp and fish together is risky - some bettas won't bother them, but it really depends. My experience with RCS is that if can fit in someone's mouth, it's gonna get eaten (I had 7 RCS in my 20 gallon and they were gone in a week - still not sure if it was my corys or my danios, but it was a shrimpocalypse). I know someone with a Spec III whose betta hunted down 3 ghost shrimp over the course of a few months and they're quite a bit larger than RCS and are also not a bright, enticing red. Hence, why I am now setting up a separate shrimp tank.

When I started up my 20 gallon long, my LFS advised me against adding all but the hardiest of plants (such as anubias nanas) while cycling since supposedly ammonia can melt/burn some plants. I plan on ordering some Christmas Moss and trying to create a wall or carpet using mesh, and I'll be moving some of my anubias and crypts over from my 20g.

I've been thinking about s. repens in this tank as well, since I think it would be great to have a low, carpet type plant in my shrimp tank. But from all that I've read, it sounds like that's a light and CO2 needy plant. Supposedly it will grow in in lower light, but is more likely to grow high and slowly, and won't necessarily produce that beautiful carpet effect. I've never had Frogbit, but looking at it, I would be worried that it could block a lot of light from anything buried in the substrate, and with an already weak light that could be more problematic.

ETA: The 25w heater should be fine for the Spec V, but if you tend to keep your house cold (60F) I would opt for the 50w.

I have the same heater as you do currently, and I plan on switching out to this one whenever I can. I seriously recommend it, as the temp is adjustable so you can decide the temp that you want

Hi :)

I was going to say good choice on the Marineland tank. I would say depending on what you want to put in there you might want to make some mods.

first with this hidden filtration tank, you will want to set the water pump to the LOWEST setting... because of the footprint water gets pushed around quite quickly stressing fish with long fins out... i.e. betta which is really good with this tank if you can get the water flow just right (they love swimming up and down and playing).

Second if you want shrimp, note the vents in the back of this tank are large enough for them to crawl in... so you might need to improvise and add a 'slab' of filter floss in front of the filter tray that comes with the tank... it gets a tiny bit tricky for the 5 gallon because the tank is quite tall...

finally tall tanks or square tanks do limit your choices of fish to less active nano fish. As with shrimp, nano fish will need to have filter floss added in the compartment behind the return vents. Fish like tetras would not go well in this tank since they like swimming over long distances - prefer long tanks.

Your heater doesn't appear to have the ability to set the temp. Not sure where you are geographically but assuming your room temp is around 20-23c your heater probably set in at about 24 to 25c. Either way a pre-calibrated to 'tropical fish' heater limits your choices in fish. i.e. red cherry shrimp can do ranges between 16c - 27c but seem to thrive in 22c. your heater choice might make them uncomfortable. In addition, while the Marineland instructions say don't put the heater in the back, you can if you know what you are doing - such as pushing the heater down lower and using proper suction cups so it sticks to the wall and doesn't touch anything such as the plastic pieces. The heater I would recommend which is slightly more pricey but comes quite recommended is the Hydor Theo 25w.

https://www.amazon.ca/Hydor-25W-Submersible-Aquarium-Heater/dp/B0006JLPG8

Also I would say skip the air pump, since the tank you added has a nozzle that can be angled at a wall in a way which creates
signficant surface tension and proper oxygenation in the tank. the way the glass lid fits creates a pretty nice fit so the pump cables coming out would just detract from the clean looks. If you put the air pump in the back compartment, its pointless since you can't see the 'cool bubbles' and also reduces the amount of volume of water in the back. From a filtration standpoint, you want more water to pass through the back than less for better filtration. Hence I recommended the Hydor since the heater is extremely short for an adjustable thermostat heater.

Hope that helps! A bit long I know.

EDIT: another thing, i noticed you are looking at a 50w heater... that is totally not necessary, unless you keep your room way below 20c and need to keep your at 30c. Also from experience, i find the tank circulates the water fast enough that I find the tank warmer than the thermostat on the heater. It could be a faulty thermostat, but the heater works perfectly fine in my long tanks (matching to my digital thermometer without any issue).

Thanks for the reminder to establish the tank first. I'll read up on that. As for the heater, I believe the one I linked to is adjustable? Isn't that the knob on top? I hope I'm not looking at the wrong type. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006JLPG8?_encoding=UTF8&isInIframe=0&n=2619533011&ref_=dp_proddesc_0&s=pet-supplies&showDetailProductDesc=1#product-description_feature_div

Thank you for your help!

Tank - https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Spec-Aquarium-2-6-Gallon-White/dp/B009S8NO26/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479225276&sr=8-1&keywords=Fluval+spec+III

Heater - https://www.amazon.com/Hydor-Submersible-Glass-Aquarium-Heater/dp/B0006JLPG8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479225297&sr=8-1&keywords=hydor+25+watt+heater

The tank requires a small amount of modification to make the flow suitable for bettas but these two pieces of equipment provide an excellent set-up for a betta.

As long as you don't keep your home really cold, this will probably do: http://www.amazon.com/Hydor-7-5w-Heater-Bettas-Bowls/dp/B006JVQ67K

If you want to be sure its good enough, these are pretty high quality for the cost (probably too large if you have the 2.5gal): http://www.amazon.com/Hydor-25W-Submersible-Aquarium-Heater/dp/B0006JLPG8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422690305&sr=8-1&keywords=hydor+heater&pebp=1422690295593&peasin=B0006JLPG8

Ha, love the name idea!

I'm not sure if you have read around and are aware of the proper care for a betta (if you have then ignore me) but if you haven't I'll go ahead and say a two gallon bowl isn't the best place for him, and is also another reason for the downvotes. He can live in it but he's not going to thrive. He does need a heater and a filter, if you have those then that is awesome, if not you can even get them as a broke college student.

If I can tell you one thing I'm positively sure of, there is always room for a fish tank. ;)

I'm just going to link you a cheap list of good stuff for little moneys:

Sponge Filter

Air Pump

Airline Tubing I bet you can find this in stores for less. Also less as an add on item.

Check Valve Most likely less at a store.

Heater, Heater 2 Costs a good bit more but I really love these.

Tank, Tank 2 There are many other options to look at.

If you go with the cheapest it will run you just about $58 with prime.

Hope the list gives you something to think about. If you've got any questions at all I'd be more than happy to answer them if I can.

Edit* Added a link.

I have this Heater for my 5.5 gallon. I'm pretty satisfied with it, although it struggled to keep up when we had a cold snap (like 55* Fahrenheit inside) with no house heat turned on. It was easily remedied by wrapping a towel around my tank.

Take a look at the 25 watt version of this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006JLPG8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

:D That is the same tank I've got and am looking to Craigslist here soon. There's nothing wrong with it as a starter tank, I just didn't like the difficulty of rounded side when trying to look at Superman. I am also not a fan of the amount of condensation that accumulates on the lid as it gets messy whenever I've tried to take it off.

With heaters, I'd suggest a Hydor or an Eheim as the reviews for both are very favorable, have a better heat transfer, and you can adjust the temperature yourself instead of guessing and hoping your heater is going to set itself to whatever it says on the box.

The filter does circulate quite well but you could shove an additional piece of filter media to slow the flow.

Do you have a thermometer? They shouldn't be that expensive. Get a real one and not a stick-on. http://www.petsmart.com/fish/thermometers/grreat-choice-floating-thermometer-zid36-5203381/cat-36-catid-300077?_t=pfm%3Dcategory

What kind of plants, substrate, and got any other decorations in it? Here's what mine looked like when Superman got his new home (and no, ADF didn't make it). And here's another shot of me showing off to some folks that didn't think I'd have a lot of nail polish.

If you get one of those cheap wire Cat Dancer toys and bend the wire around one of those Da Bird bundles of feathers or something similar, it will drive your cat absolutely batshit insane. The Dancer toy on it's own is good for Bengals because it's basically indestructible given the fact that it's just wire and some cardboard. Adding in the feathers puts it over the top.

CAT DANCER It costs about $3 and is a 3-foot wire with cardboard bits at the end. My cat is obsessed - she will drag it from room to room with her.

I bought This and This for my super active, playful kitty last summer.. I realize the first one just looks like cardboard on a wire.. but.. she loves it so much, it's scary. She prefers it over any other toy I've ever gotten her, it's ridiculous. NOW, I bought these before they were addon items, so in case addons aren't allowed:


This has lots of different textures and includes drugs for your baby cat.

Not similar in style, but my cat goes absolutely wild for hair ties too and he loves this wire toy from Amazon as much (if not more).

Cat Dancer 101 Cat Dancer Interactive Cat Toy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006N9I68/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_K6tDAb87MYF99

Here’s the link if it’s easier

I’ve bought my kitten this (I forget how to link on mobile so sorry for the ugly link) and of course it’s the cheapest toy I’ve bought, but he will play with this until he’s panting, go eat, come back and play over and over.

You can also kinda DIY some toys. My older cat (5 years) hates anything and everything I buy for her. I bought a bungee mouse toy you can hang on doors and stuff, and tied a long ribbon through the ring. She will play with that forever. (Also linked)

The one they both agree is with the Yeowww catnip banana. They go absolutely bonkers for it. (Linked)

Some also love little chirpy toys. You can find plenty on strings, or little strong free ones (linked).

Go to town with feathers, bells, and whatnot to figure out what your kitty likes!

Crinkle balls are also a hit with both. They love the sound and it’s their jam. My youngest will play with them for hours. Be careful of which brand you buy of these though, some people have issues with the dye.

If you don’t want’em scratching on anything, try getting a couple scratching posts and place them near where they scratch the walls or whatever else. They also love being up high, so a cat tree is always great! Preferably near windows since most cats enjoy looking outside.

Cheap toy: Cat Dancer 101 Cat Dancer Interactive Cat Toy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006N9I68/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_R7yTBbDYBC4T8

Mouse bungee toy: SmartyKat Bouncy Mouse Cat Toy Bungee Toy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001FK62YM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_2.yTBb1ECB06G

Catnip Banana: Yeowww! Catnip Toy, Yellow... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AUJFHE?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Crinkle balls: 12 Mylar Crinkle Balls for... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06VVY88VR?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Chirpy toy: Your pet will love this Pet Zone Play-N-Squeak Backyard Squeaking Raccoon Cat Toy: https://app.chewy.com/pEfewDgnJQ

Plastic spring toys and the cat dancer


Ethical Products 20 Piece Spot Colorful Springs Wide https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016L9R2Z4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EeTzCbX3B4P4P

Cat Dancer 101 Cat Dancer Interactive Cat Toy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006N9I68/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3eTzCb3T2WWPS

I'm a fan of garbage toys - things that normally get tossed or recycled. Easiest is a toilet paper roll, or a tissue box (cut holes in the sides and pop a tin foil ball in).

Of course, heading to a pet store and grabbing a cheap pack of toys and tossing them around. Not all cats like the same kind of toys, but if you see something like this, I 100000% recommend. Pretty cheap, tons of life, easy to play with, and I haven't met a cat yet that hasn't played with it. I actually have to hide mine from the cat, as she won't stop playing with it and exhausts herself.

I've bought a ton of toys for our kitten in the last few months, but these are his absolute favorites: Bergan Turbo Scratcher, a crinkle tube like this one, Cat Dancer, and the Go Cat mouse on a string toy. With the Go Cat mouse toy especially, he definitely lets you know he loves that toy. It's the only one he never ignores and the only one he will pick up in his mouth and carry to his "den" like it's real prey.

We also got him a fluffy mouse puppet that he loves to wrestle with. I might just be projecting, but it seems like it kind of makes up for the lack of another furry companion to play with. Bonus points: it lets you play hands-on without getting your hands scratched up.

The bitter apple spray doesn't seem to deter our cat much, but liberal application of Sticky Paws (double sided tape) and taping loose cords to the wall helps keep him away from scratching and biting things he shouldn't be messing with.

Also, if you have house plants, look them up to make sure they aren't toxic to cats. The kitten's interest in chewing on plants may vary, of course, but ours loves chewing and climbing on plants. The ASPCA has the most comprehensive list of plants that are toxic to pets.

The cheaper, the better.. I've bought some expensive toys in my life, but I once went to petsmart with 1 dollar, and a plan to make my cat's life better.. I ended up with this (which cost $1 at the time, and is still for sale there to this day). This lasted over 6 months before they destroyed it, and I had a box laying around, which lasted over a year.

Honestly, somehow the simpler the toy, the more they love it. Add a $2 bag of catnip, and you're done. I'm able to afford high-end cat food because the entertainment fund is so cheap. My cat's are now aged 6 and 7 years old, and act like kittens to this day.

Add Costco cat litter, and a good de-shedding brush, and life is good. I do my own vaccinations through farm supply stores, flea drops through petshed.com, and you're talking like $150 per year to own 2 cats who are healthy, vaccinated, and flea free. I still take them to the vet, but they don't ever prescribe anything more than what I already give them. I don't enjoy giving them shots, but it's so simple that anyone on a low budget could do it without a care in the world. Nobody should ever not own a cat due to "operating costs".

Garnet is almost 13--and it's so weird because even though she's a senior, she is as active and playful as a kitten. It's amazing what weight loss can do.

Actually, there is a toy that has really helped--she LOVES it and goes crazy for it:

http://www.amazon.com/Cat-Dancer-101-Interactive-Toy/dp/B0006N9I68/ref=cm_cr-mr-title

every cat i've ever had has LOVED cat dancers. it's literally just a slightly curved wire with little bits of cardboard on the end, but it drives them CRAZY. they're super cheap too. you can find them at most pet stores, or on amazon here

So precious! If he's your first, I really recommend a few things if that's ok! Amazon/ ebay links but products can be found elsewhere.

Watch My Cat From Hell - it's FULL of good ideas and knowledge, despite the cable TV format.

Harness and leash train your cat asap. Not only can you then take them for walks (which takes a couple years to do but is well worth it), being ok with a harness and leash will make him way easier to travel with and take to the vet.

Cat backpacks are easier than cat carriers; I like the solid rectangular ones best.



Check out robot toys that your cat can play with on their own, as well as bouncer toys (basically a long wire with a little cardboard thingy on each end that you can wedge somewhere for them to play with.

Couple of things mine love:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006N9I68/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WP7F8YC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1



A cat tree next to a window with a bird feeder outside (you can get ones that stick onto your window) will make them very happy. Note on cat trees - I got a really good deal on ebay recently, and the same cat trees were way more expensive on Amazon - I totally recommend checking ebay for cost comparison on this. They were like 30-40% cheaper.

He looks like he's going to be a floof. I recommend these two brushes - the first is for removing extra hair every so often in the summer months, the second is a general daily brush (I just keep them in the powder room seeing as my cats insist on going to the bathroom with me anyway). This seriously reduces the amount of hair all over your home. We barely have cat hair on anything aside from their regular spots on cat furniture.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CWCRFUW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000YIWUXI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If they do turn out to be floofy, watch out for them seeming bit light/ skinny in hot weather - they can get dehydrated, and this is a real life-shortener. Avoid cheap cat treats, which tend to be too salty (Temptations/ Dreamies etc) get the vet recommended sort.

My cats also love this fountain (we've gotten them three and this is the top pick and the easiest to use):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TY5D6C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Learn to trim his claws yourself - you'll save your furniture. I use these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002RJM8C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Before you first introduce the three dogs, make sure the pit mix is thoroughly tired out. If he's old enough, your friend should take him on a nice long jog to expend his energy. This will make him calmer and more likely to see your dogs as friends rather than playmates (or toys).

Then take them on a group walk together. This is important because it is neutral ground. If you were to bring the pit mix directly into your place, your dogs would likely respond territorially. That puts them on the defense, and puts all the dogs on edge. The group walk will put them on the same "team," so to speak.

Make sure there's a place where the small dogs can escape from the pitty if he's being too energetic or too physical with them. They make baby gates with a smaller door that you can open or close to let your pups through. This is an example of what you would want to get. This way your dogs have an escape route and won't feel trapped with the larger dog.

I was going to chime in and say that these gates do exist. We have a basement where the stairs are just open to the kitchen, and need a way to keep a crawling baby upstairs but let the cats (all 3 of them!) go down because their litterboxes are in the basement. We're getting this one because of the excellent reviews (and yes it's a small enough opening that a baby old enough to crawl won't be able to fit their head through, one of my concerns about it).

https://www.amazon.com/Carlson-Extra-Wide-Through-44-Inch/dp/B000JJDI0G

There's also baby gates with cat doors in them. http://www.amazon.com/Carlson-0930PW-Extra-Wide-Walk-Thru-White/dp/B000JJDI0G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409088264&sr=8-1&keywords=pet+gates+with+cat+door

How big is your dog?

Instead of cutting a hole in the door, maybe try this baby gate The only issue I had with this gate was my dog was too small when he was a puppy and could fit right through. Took him a few months to get too big for the cat door

We have the same configuration of house/floors. We use a gate like this, though without the pet door: Carlson Extra Wide Walk Through Pet Gate with Small Pet Door, 37-Inches Wide https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JJDI0G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ZhuEAbYGDPRV2. Our son didn't seem much bigger than our cats when we got them and in thought he would just crawl through the pet door. You drill little cups into the walls on either side and then the posts that extend on either side can't slide away. It's very secure. We don't usually spend much time except for sleeping upstairs, so we only ever close the uppermost gate for short periods, like when we're getting ready in the morning, for bed, or doing chores while our son runs around, to keep from blocking our cats from the box/food, depending. The gate to the bottom floor is always closed but the cats don't go down there anyway.

ETA; one floor has a wooden banister/grate thing on one side instead of a plaster/solid wall, and the gate makes the whole thing sit at a bit of an angle, but doesn't seem to affect the safety.

Whenever she complains, send her links to child-safe cabinet latches, cleaning supplies (mops or floor cleaners) or pet baby gates.

I bought this:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000JJDI0G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Worked really well and you can buy extensions. Don't have to mount it to anything either.

I have this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JJDI0G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Which has a cat door, but you can close that easily so they can't get through. It worked well for us until our 60lb lab mix figured out how to get through the effing cat door. Still can't believe that happened.

My puppy was snatching cat poop, too!! We got this gate to keep her out of the room that the litter box is in, it works wonderfully and she hasn't eaten poop in a couple months now :)

My two current faverites are the Tricky Treat Ball and the Tug-A-Jug.


For the ball getting the first half of the kibble out is pretty easy but the second half is pretty tricky (aka getting the dog hooked and then upping the difficulty). The Jug is just awesome but it's loud as hell on wood floors and drives me nuts so I'll only give it to her when I'm about to leave the house.


I've also heard good things about Buster Cubes because they've got adjustable openings but I really need to stop buying stuff for my spoiled pup so I don't have one.

My mom'a husky mix likes this treat dispenser rope thing and I've had several large breed fosters like this egg treat dispenser thing

I think what works for your dog probably depends on his preferences and chew intensity. If you're not solely interested in treat/food dispensers, you might look into some of the scent training aids. You can buy animal scents in liquid form, and you basically put a few drops on a piece of scrap fabric and hide it as a game. My beagle loved it when he was younger. I put it in a kong or kong-like toy then hide the toy. Of course, I'd never leave it hidden unattended. They still have scent hound competitions so there's quite a bit of information out there about training.

I don’t use those in particular, my current go tos are the tug a jug, Magic mushroom, and game changer.

I usually show him that kibble comes out and let him go to town. If he seems to be having trouble, I’ll usually show him every couple of minutes what to do but he usually picks it up pretty quick.

I introduced him to them pretty much as soon as I brought him home at 9 weeks. He very rarely gets a meal in a bowl. It’s pretty much training and puzzle toys when I’m feeling lazy.

Awwww! As bad as that is, that's really cute. Mine does that too. I bought her one of these bad boys and now she no longer destroys my personal property lol

So much destruction in a small package, am I right?

http://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Buddy-Tug-A-Jug-Dispensing-Medium/dp/B000KV7ZGQ

There are many different kinds of toys and puzzles that will keep him occupied when you aren't at home. Just choose something centered around your dog's motivation, whether it be treats, toys, or something else and don't forget to play with him yourself!

On a different note, I used to have a dog who started chewing when he was a puppy. I made it absolutely clear to him that I was VERY unhappy when he chewed through my headphone cord, then gave him a length of denim from the scrap box and said, "This is for you." Ever since then, he'll only chew things you give to him explicitly.

The Kong Wobbler and Bobs-a-lot are great toys. I also use a Tricky Treat ball a lot. My dogs also really love the Snoop.

You could also try the Tug-a-Jug, Kibble Nibble, or Buster Cube.

My cats were very unfamiliar with the fountain at first, and just gave it the side eye as they walked past. But it didn't take long for them to get used to it. We did end up swapping the original one out for This one once they got a little taller, as one of my idgits likes to dab her paw in and watch the water drip off her fur. Unfortunately that resulted in a frequently clogged filter, as they are long haired. The new filter is designed differently so she can't do that as much, and whenever I check the water in the tank it is wonderfully clean and fresh looking with nary a hair to be seen, which I like.


We did find that we had to move the fountain a few feet away from the food, as someone was apparently getting a drink with food still in their mouth, which would drop into the water, get all boated and contaminated, and be gross. But just make sure the water is always fresh and topped off, and she'll get the hang of it soon enough.

I have a finicky water drinker and eater too. Make sure you have wide, shallow bowls (non plastic) so the sides won’t touch his whiskers.

A fountain is also a great idea. My cats always come running when I turn on a faucet so I decided to get this one from Amazon. I also keep their food bowls in a different place than their water. Some cats won’t drink if their water is too close to their food source.

I got my water cat this one from amazon and he loves it!

> As far as the rest of basic kitty care, a water fountain is definitely an excellent idea. We have one for our two cats and they L O V E it. It's cute and didn't cost very much, either. Here's a link: Catit Flower Fountain https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0146QXOB0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_MWVmzbNH28CMW

Seconding this, it was absolutely worth the purchase. Running water is much, much better than stagnant, and the filter keeps it clean. The basic water bowls I bought before would always get incredibly gross, but this thing has been wonderful for my cat.

Catit Flower Fountain: 3L Cat Water Fountain with Triple-Action Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0146QXOB0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_rtHBCb273PAWK

Hi, I'm interested in getting a cat fountain (never knew any of this before!). I found two that might be what you're describing, what do you recommend? Thanks for the information!

https://www.amazon.ca/Catit-Design-Senses-Fountain-Softening/dp/B00CO527IC

https://www.amazon.com/Catit-43742-Flower-Fountain/dp/B0146QXOB0

Thank you for your advice! She is normally on a mix of wet and dry Urinary S0 (and we always mix the wet food into more of a soup), but we can definitely give her more wet. I hadn’t thought of that.

I don’t have a pic of my sink at the moment, but the water fountains I have are the Pioneer swan fountain and the Catit flower fountain.

I bought [this one](Catit Flower Fountain https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0146QXOB0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4EDUzbK1CJR56) on Amazon for my cats. It's only $30 and surprisingly sturdy. It's really easy to take apart, clean, and put together, and my cats love it.

We use this from amazon and it’s been great! She drinks from it all the time.

Catit Flower Fountain: 3L Drinking Fountain with Triple-Action Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0146QXOB0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hIn-AbNXX5PKK

You mentioned it is somewhat hard to clean?

I have this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0146QXOB0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cats are not too keen on this.

Just like mine prefers to drink out of the sink or tub rather than his bowl. I’m considering getting https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0146QXOB0/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1522243446&sr=8-3&keywords=flower+cat+water+fountain&dpPl=1&dpID=41W4QSh7LnL&ref=plSrch

Oh, that's awful. I hope you and your family were all okay. Sometimes our pets just don't understand we're doing things for their own good. Maybe you can try a larger crate or a harness that hooks to a [seatbelt] (https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Adjustable-Vehicle-Seatbelt-Harness/dp/B014W40TSW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1469244557&sr=8-3&keywords=pet+seat+belt), although the latter might not be feasible in an emergency.

Edit: Kitty [holster] (https://theanimalrescuesite.greatergood.com/store/ars/item/60409/Crazy-K-Farm-Kitty-Holster-Cat-Harness-Black-XL/94842?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=arsbpla&origin=ars_bpla_94842&utm_term=1100201014648&utm_content=All%20Products)

I can't read the article (animal deaths just make me sad ) but any dog owner out there who travels with their companion please invest in a dog seatbelt. In the event of an accident your dog will not be able to bolt from the car. I can't imagine taking my dog anywhere without latching him in.

I use these. $7 (2 pack) for a little peace of mind when my dog is in the car with me. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014W40TSW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_VxoZAbKQJMX40

You're not wrong though. I have a little belt that goes into the seat buckle on one side and clips onto my dogs harness on the other.

$8 for two - please make sure your pups are safe!

I ended up getting something like this for my pup and due to the breed, it worked for me since he used it for a few months. However, goldens grow bigger and faster than Boston Terriers for sure. So I'm not sure it's really worth the price for your situation.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Black-Soft-Sided-Pet-Carrier/dp/B00QHC01C2/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1540302534&sr=8-5&keywords=dog+travel+carrier

Do you know anyone with pets that might have a smaller carrier that you could borrow for this trip?

I eventually moved my pup to use this with a blanket under him. (Only use it with a harness though, not on a collar which could be dangerous to your pup) So in a pinch, it should work and last you a while.

https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Adjustable-Vehicle-Seatbelt-Harness/dp/B014W40TSW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1540302815&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=dog+car+harness+seat+belt&psc=1

Dog Seatbelt

Vastar 2 Packs Adjustable Pet Dog Cat Car Seat Belt Safety Leads Vehicle Seatbelt Harness, Made from Nylon Fabric https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014W40TSW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9f9QBbJ9NX8F8

Here's the link to one such product

Also, I have a Cattle dog too, fucking loves car rides. Before my jeep I had a pickup and put him in the back once when I was headed home from the dog park. I had a bungee set up on the tow points and a 6 foot leash hooked in to that. I reversed out of my parking spot and he jumped out, leash and all. Ever since then I've been real paranoid to only roll down the window half way and stuff. But alas in the past year or so I've decided to test it and put the window down all the way. So far so good! Not on the highway, just around town n stuff. But he loves it and doesnt even give me the vibe of jumping out, so I'm not too worried and seeing him like that makes me smile.

Not the best pic, but here he is enjoying the wind

He did, we have something like this for him.

Link for the lazy

I recommend these. They clip nicely on to her harness and she doesn't seem to mind it. She is far more comfortable with this than she used to be on my lap.

I use a seat belt adapter for my pup like this one

You could also try giving her calming treats before car rides to keep her a little more relaxed. They work wonders for my dog.

Also, maybe give her a pillow or something that she could snuggle with to kind of replicate your lap.

They're cute as heck.

That's an odd seat belt situation you have going on there. I recently picked some of these up, and it might be a better system than what you've got going on, especially because you already use harnesses.

I actually am not a vandweller, but I thought I'd comment in case you wanted a cat seat belt. This is the only one I've tried

I put Vector in his walking harness and keep him in place with a "Doggy Seatbelt" like this one - https://amzn.com/B014W40TSW

Plugs into your seatbelt connector, and leashes onto your dog so that they're tethered.

If you get this, PLEASE ONLY USE IT WITH A HARNESS. Obviously you don't want your pup being thrown about the car by his neck collar if you get in an accident!

Heres the light im using and its on sale, so this is a good idea if you ask me!

No problem! If you're interested in a planted tank, this light is really affordable , fits well on a 12" cube, and has been growing my (easy mode) plants well. (Link is to Amazon Canada)

NICREW ClassicLED Aquarium Light https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0191EWII2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_x2euDbDRFK25S

Nicrews are pretty good for the money. I've got one on a 20 long that grows high light plants. Sponge filters are also pretty good.

I don't know about filters. I've got a DIY canister on my 20, but it cost about as much to make as the cheapest store bought model and one of those might be a bit much for a 5 gallon. Plus you need to put the pump somewhere. If you want to look into DIY filters, here is the instructions on the canister I have. That guy has a ton of DIY filter tutorials too. Something like this would probably be better for a smaller tank.

This one: NICREW ClassicLED Aquarium Light, Fish Tank Light with Extendable Brackets, White and Blue LEDs, 6W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0191EWII2/

My money's on this light from Amazon, as /u/Gredival said, it's sold under many different names, chinese.manufactured LED. The nicrew on Amazon has loads of good reviews tho and at a price that's not too painful at all.

NICREW ClassicLED Aquarium Light, Fish Tank Light with Extendable Brackets, White and Blue LEDs, 6W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0191EWII2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_AiKZAbAGYQ19B

crocs Unisex Classic Clog, Black,... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07236CXBQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

NICREW LED Aquarium Light, Fish... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0191EWII2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I have this one and works great on a 10 gal

NICREW ClassicLED Aquarium Light, Fish Tank Light Extendable Brackets, White Blue LEDs, 6W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0191EWII2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_eL36BbFGJ8D1P

And for the filter I always go with hang in the back I had a corner one but my Betta got stuck in there and so did a couple of neons

This one? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0191EWII2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_7I1lzbDRETJ8A

If yeah, what size?

OK, Im just going to list a bunch of stuff I've purchased through this process. Nothing is in any particular order.

Almond leaves (for tannin) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LKTX4VC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Moss - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0035Q65TQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cholla Wood - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H4FUMHY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Dried red Shrimp (Protein and Chitin) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0027JCRVW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Instant Ocean (1/3cup per Gallon) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000255NKA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ultrasonic Mister/Fogger (for DIY Fogger) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PAK21WU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Digital Temp Humidity Controller - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I6BZ2IO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

LED White/Blue Light - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0191EWII2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

UTH (You may need to get a different size and this isn't the most recommended, but it works for me currently) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TR4HLEI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (This one has adhesive on the back of it, so you just stick it on like a sticker.)

Cork Bark Board - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0019J1VPY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Water Conditioner - https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-116043304-Prime-500ml/dp/B00025694O

If you have any questions, please feel free. To mitigate confusion I felt just listing this as a reference first is the best approach. If you are looking for a new tank so that you can get friends, i would suggest 30 or more gallons and work towards that instead of investing into the current tank which would get changed.

Personally with the 5 i have i clearly see they need much more room than the 15 gallon they have now. I am in the process of acquiring an 85-120 gallon tank for permanency. These guys can live 20+ years with the proper care and environment. but not everyone has that freedom. 30 is a totally doable size for 3 crabs. they can grow to jumbos and be fine in there, but im sure if they reach that stage you'll be looking for another tank. Jumbos need at least 12" of substrate for molting.

You basically just don't wanna provide so much light that it contributes to much to algae growth or a lighting set up that puts out a lot of heat and causes temperature swings.

NICREW ClassicLED Aquarium Light, Fish Tank Light with Extendable Brackets, White and Blue LEDs, 6W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0191EWII2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VigeBb3N75SQV

I use this for some fish, a red algae plant and a star Polyp. Blue light mode is nice in the evening if you wanna look at your tank but not have lights going full blast. Also LED so low energy cost.

Yes, not as easy as that seems. For beginners they always say larger volume is better/the solution is dilution...
But, if you want to get a simple 5.5 gal going, you can definitely do it. I don't know where you are but in the states, they have kits, which I've only seen with a black plastic lid where the light is attached inside/under the lid. I got this once because it was on sale... and I ended up tossing the lid, buying a glass lid and light on amazon and it is a great set up now.
And depending on if your fish like water flow, you might get a different filter. So, here's an example:
Light from Amazon will fit on a 5 gal tank and is less than 20 quid): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0191EWII2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Get a glass top if you can but be sure it fits (over here the topfin set tank didn't fit the aqueon lid I got!).
Don't know if you have Cobalt Aquatics 25 watt adjustable heater, but that's probably the best in that size that is adjustable. But I paid $40 for mine (although I just saw one on amazon for $25).
And you can choose between a sponge filter or a hang on back filter.
Pros for sponge are less turbulent water(unless you have really big bubbles)/Cons-it doesn't suck up any of the crud/mulm that might be in the tank... like I don't like the dust from the Catappa leaves (as they decay) I add to some tanks, so I don't like to use them in sponge filter tanks.
Pros for HOB filter, greater flow, can overfilter a tank allowing for a slightly higher bioload (like I have a filter for a 30 gal on a 10 gal that has Endlers livebearers 'cause they breed so prolifically and I have to sell them back to my LFS periodically so it's overstocked). And it sucks up mulm and shedded needles from hornwort and cabomba plants (unless I put a prefilter sponge on it). Cons--if you have baby shrimp or fry they would get sucked up without a prefilter sponge. All 3 of my 5.5 gallons have HOBs ranging from an Aqueon 10 for the fish that like flow to a small Deep Blue Nano filter for fish that don't like flow.

Hope this helps and sorry if it was too long!

I have two of these

It’s a JC&P LED I got off Facebook marketplace. Specs look similar to the Nicrew. It’s only white and blue LED.

NICREW ClassicLED Aquarium Light, Fish Tank Light with Extendable Brackets, White and Blue LEDs, Size 18 to 24 Inch, 11 Watts https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01C84SLRO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ODszDbTTYH904

Aquarium heater

Aquarium filter

The glass tops come with a plastic adjustment backing, all you have to do is cut out pieces so that you only have space for your heater and filter in the back. I added a few other links that I hope you can access.

Plant Light

Glass lid

When I was buying a light for my 29g I was torn between the finnex stingray and the one I ended up purchasing which is a nicrew led light. It's done quite well growing my low light plants and the value for the price is pretty killer. For a 28"-36" led that actually grows plants for ~$40, it's not much of a risk. I recommend these every chance I get.

https://www.amazon.com/NICREW-Aquarium-Light-Extendable-Brackets/dp/B01C84SLRO?th=1&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C84SLRO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Works really well, but be careful not to leave it on for too long. I had it on for seven hours every day on a timer when I left for vacation for five days and came back to a tank filled with algae. Other than that, it's a great light and I highly recommend it for the price :)

I just picked up this for a 10 gallon tank. Hits the medium light level really well.

Hey, I have a Nicrew, however mine looks a tad less dynamic.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C84SLRO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So far (3 months) it's been working fine for LOW light needing plants. I've had to take a few plants out that needed more light, so be sure to research. For the shrimp, they are fine. I have 3 Ghost shrimp that I've had since the cycle was over (2-2 1/2) months with no problems and they are growing great. I'm actually surprised they've co-existed great with my rainbow shark. the 3 plants that are doing great for me with this light is Java Moss, Java Ferns, and Temple Plants. I also have micro-sword growing....however one took, and one didn't. Could be because of the light reaching the bottom. I have a 20G tall so my assumption is you'll be fine.

​

​

That is way too bright. Could cause major algae growth too because of excess light

Edit: I would recommend one of these light strips off amazon. I have two and they work damn well. They also have a nightmode included which looks very pleasant

Im in a college dorm with limited space, so here's my set up for my D. Capensis and VFT.

Clamp light

Light bulb

It's been working for me so far. I turn it on when I wake up and turn it off when the sun goes down. (Or if I wake up three hours after the sun goes up, I'll turn it off 3 hours after the sun goes down). My VFT went dormant as planned and my sundew is healthy. I have not been feeding them anything else yet.

Not sure how expensive the one above is, but something like this generally works pretty well. You can have it sit on top of the mesh. You can find them at Home Depot or a hardware store if you don't want to order from online.

Recipe:

• 2 oz Dark Rum (Pusser's)
  
• 4 oz Pineapple Juice
  
• 1 oz Orange Juice
  
• 1 oz Cream of Coconut (Coco Lopez)
  
  Shake all ingredients with ice, strain into a rocks glass filled with crushed ice. Garnish with freshly grated nutmeg.
  
  -----------
  
  Light box was constructed using .25" PVC pipes and appropriate joints to create a basic box, then I stretched some plain white tshirt knit fitted sheets over it for diffusion. I'm currently using 3 basic white philips hue LED in clamp/scoop light housings.
  They are pretty handy because you can adjust their dim level via your phone and then save scenes.
  
  The set dressing is just a yard of tapa print fabric draped over a sheet of foam core and some fake leaves. Here's a pic I took when I was testing it out with a mug. It looks less impressive than the final product.

If you have access to a power outlet, a simple clamp lamp can work.

Yeah, it's clipped on to an old mop handle which I cut down to size and stuck in a box full of stones to hold it steady. I'm getting something along the same lines as this.

You could always grab some clamp lamps amd stick em on the side of your tank. You could spray pain them too if you want them to match your decor. You can even put grow lights in if you want to upgrade to a more heavily planted tank.

This is gonna be your absolutely cheapest option.

My recommendation is to buy a cheap reflector lamp and a high wattage grow bulb. If you want to go nicer (and more expensive) spring for a nice T5 bulb setup. As a first step, I would just do something like what I post below. It is effective and cheap. I really recommend not getting one of those tiny LED ones because they usually are super low power and help your plant less for your money.

https://www.amazon.com/Full-Spectrum-Hydroponic-Light-60W32/dp/B01L0GV2ZY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1493998601&sr=8-3&keywords=grow+bulbs+60+watt

https://www.amazon.com/Simple-Deluxe-HIWKLTCLAMPLIGHTM-8-5-Inch-Reflector/dp/B01E9IY6US/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1493998736&sr=1-2&keywords=reflector+lamp

OPULENT SYSTEMS 24"x24"x48"... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JNQXMRT?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


AmazonBasics 3-Shelf Shelving... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZAV8KH?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


BaoGuai Reptile Mister... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PLFC8X4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


BYB - 150W 110V Ceramic Infrared... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HFNZ59Q?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


Simple Deluxe Clamp Lamp Light... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E9IY6US?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


Inkbird Digital Pre-Wired Outlet... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FQKXRXA?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

If you are really trying to keep the budget tight this is what I use

https://www.amazon.com/Simple-Deluxe-HIWKLTCLAMPLIGHTM-8-5-Inch-Reflector/dp/B01E9IY6US/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1502802377&sr=1-4&keywords=utility+lamp

Add a true white bulb and either bounce it off the wall or cover it with nylon material to diffuse the light a bit and you are good to go.

I’m pretty sure you can use any 100W LED bulb!

With maybe one of these

I used to do professional lighting, and here is my best trick in a pinch:

• Buy one of these
  
• Put this bulb in it
  
• Tape some of this in front of it or mount the light directly in front of you but facing a white wall.
  
• ???
  
• Profit

Best $35 I ever spent.

I put sponge pre-filters on mine.

https://www.amazon.com/Pre-Filter-Sponge-Pack-Fluval-Aquarium/dp/B004K9A15G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1465528898&sr=8-2&keywords=sponge+pre+filter

Pantyhose works too but the sponge is added filtration.

ive never had a problem with neons getting sucked in the filter, but if youre worried you could put a sponge over it like this.

I have one in my tank for when random cory babies survive. it also helps big chunks of debris like broken plants from being sucked into the filter and clogging it!

Put a sponge over the intake. You can buy sponges specifically made for this purpose, or use pantyhose.

http://www.amazon.com/Pre-Filter-Sponge-Pack-Fluval-Aquarium/dp/B004K9A15G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1398461060&sr=8-2&keywords=intake+sponge

Not sure what type of filter you have but maybe try a sponge filter? It helps prevent the babies from being sucked up: http://www.amazon.com/Pre-Filter-Sponge-Pack-Fluval-Aquarium/dp/B004K9A15G

Most local fish stores will have pre-cut intake sponges that will fit any standard HOB filter. Like an aquaclear 20 or whatever. I actually bought filter sponge from my local store, cut it into a strip about 4 inches long, folded it in half and sewed the edges (leaving the opposite end of the fold un-sewn). Simply slide onto the intake.

or buy something like this

I have the same one! My dude also hates it. I got it in a Aqueon basic 10 kit.

I made a baffle out of a plastic bottle and put it over the outflow. It made the flow not fully reach the front of the tank, but it didn't seem like enough to really slow it down.

After that, I also bought one of these fluval sponge things and put it on the outside of the intake tube. I also put this aquarium filter fiber on the inside of the intake tube and inside where the filter cartridge is. If you put too much stuff in the intake tube, the filter will be really loud and suck up some of the fiber. I had to really pack it in. The intake flow is SO STRONG that it will suck up gravel (I had the genius idea of putting gravel on top of the fiber to stop the fiber from getting sucked up- did not work)

After all this, the filter is weaker and slower, but still pretty strong. I wish I would have just bought something else in the first place, but its so far working out. I'm just sad that every bubble nest my little dude tries to make is being instantly destroyed. He's still trying though!

Sorry! [Here is an example] (http://www.amazon.com/Pre-Filter-Sponge-Pack-Fluval-Aquarium/dp/B004K9A15G) but I picked up some cheap one at the pet store that didn't really fit and just used some sewing thread to tighten it up so it would fit my filter properly. I think it was $3 for a 2 pack maybe?

You would clean it like your normal bio filter--when you're doing a water change, rinse it out in the discarded tank water bucket to get rid of excess gunk. Don't rinse it in tap water or wash it or else you'll kill your beneficial bacteria.

I have some dwarf lettuce floating plants in my 5 gallon and they just sway gently but aren't pushed all over the place. The only downside to this is that you may get a biofilm on the surface of your water which is harmless but kind of gross looking (oil slick). You can add a little air stone if you like--that should be enough to agitate the top of the water and not bother your fish.

If you need a quick-quick fix, just get some filter floss and rubber band it securely around the intake--that works in the same way but I hate having rubber bands in the tank so I see it as a temporary fix. Hope this helps!

There is really no impact. In fact is catches a lot of the debris. You just have to rinse it out once in a while.

http://www.amazon.com/Pre-Filter-Sponge-Pack-Fluval-Aquarium/dp/B004K9A15G

Definitely. Which means good water parameters. They're highly sensitive to ammonia so be on top of testing your water and water changes.

I also learned the hard way that my filter allows little frog legs and bodies to be sucked in. For example, if you have the standard HOB filter, the tube may cause problems so cover it with prefilters.

Pre-Filter Sponge 3 Pack for... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004K9A15G?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share. I used this with my hob filter for the past 5 years with no problems.

I bought the pre filters off Amazon, they come in a 3 pack. I was going to offer to mail you a spare but judging by your comment history it looks like you're in Australia? I'm in the states and will only mail to US address...they're cheap though!

Put foam over the intake, aka http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004K9A15G/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Or a very fine mesh pantyhose etc..

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004K9A15G/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8

You can probably find them pretty easily. I ordered this pack on amazon which comes with three since I had more than one tank, but I'm sure anything similar to that will work fine. It's just basically a little cylinder shapes sponge sleeve that you stick over the end that sucks up the water.

Is it this one? http://www.amazon.com/Sunny-Seat-Window-Cat-Bed/dp/B005AUM8U0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=undefined&sr=8-1&keywords=cat+window+suction

[This as seen on TV item] (http://www.amazon.com/Sunny-Seat-Window-Cat-Bed/dp/B005AUM8U0/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=1L8ON2MX2QPTV&coliid=I38RFI7VXQZL0R) because it makes me look like a crazy cat lady. But my cat loves to sit in the window. Surprises are fun!

If you have the space, I recommend a cat tower with the sisal scratching posts. It'll function as a climbing playhouse for the kitten as well as a place to sleep. My cat also loves to sleep on these


For when the kitten is a little older, I think indoor cats should have collars too. The bell helps locate where the cat is and if the cat gets out of the house (knock on wood), people are more inclined to report cats with a collar because they'll know it's not a stray.

Something like [this] (https://www.amazon.com/Original-Sunny-Seat-Window-Mounted-Cat/dp/B005AUM8U0) is a good option. We have two of them.

Hi,

If you are referring to this one I highly recommend!!
https://www.amazon.ca/Oster-Sunny-Seat-Window-Cat/dp/B005AUM8U0

My cat is 12 lbs. This thing holds up to 50lbs and is sturdy. Only thing was initially when he went on it he heard the velcro and got a little scared. The material moved a little but still stays in place. My cat loves it!! So great to add this to the window and easy assembly. It's also very reasonably priced. I added a little bit of catnip on it to entice him to rub against it to leave his scent.

Hope this helps! I was also skeptical so hope you enjoy it if you choose to purchase one.

I bought my guy a Sunny Seat. Actually got it from Bed, Bath, & Beyond for the same price. Works wonders in a loft apartment. haha

1. Something Grey. Manatees love tea too.
   
   
2. Something reminiscent of rain. I have have a 6 hour thunderstorm on my iPod that I listen too almost every night to help me relax and go to sleep. But, my pillow finally gave up the ghost, so I use ear buds...not as comfy.
   
   
3. Food related, yet unusual. May seem tame to most, but my brain can't wrap around how these will/would taste.
   
   
4. On my list for someone else. Slightly NSFW! For my wife who has sensitive...well, you'll understand when you look at the link. She needs this stuff to be more comfortable. I only have to look at them funny and it's too much for her.
   
   
5. A book you should read. The Red Tent, is a book based on the fictional life of Dinah from the old Testament. She is is mentioned only once I think in the bible, but the author of this book weaves a life story based on how women where treated and lived back then. Dinah lives in a harsh world but learns from the women around her and see the workings of this mysterious entity called God in her world. It is a wonderful read and having to tell you about it reminded me I want it again to reread. Really a great book.
   
   
6. Item that is less than a dollar. This awesome awesome fantastic song!
   
   
7. Something for my kitty Cassie May. I've always wanted one of these for my kitty and this was the perfect opportunity to finally add it to my WL.
   
   
8. Something that is not useful, but so beautiful I must have it. Isn't it a beautiful ring?
   
   
9. A movie everyone should watch once in their life. Because it is so imaginative and awesomely made with the puppets and sets. And David Freaking Bowie and his cod piece and hair are sexy yet so evil. ....you remind me of the babe
   
   
10. Something that would be useful when the zombies attack. Keep my shankin' knives sharp yo!
    
    
11. Something that would have a profound impact on my life and help me to achieve my current goals. Currently I have no real space to do my painting and in a month and a half I'm moving and will have even less space to myself and my painting. This would enable me to paint at any table. For without being able to take a breather and paint, I can not be myself and have those moments to detach and relax so I can later go out and be the best adult I can be.
    
    
12. Pesky add-on. To make your hair o'so happy.
    
    
13. The most expensive thing on my list. My phone is currently my only camera. I've always dreamed of owning a "professional" camera to go take pictures of all the things!
    
    
14. Something bigger than a bread box. Vroom Vroom
    
    
15. Something smaller than a golf ball. Tee Tiny!
    
    
16. Something that smells wonderful. Romance by Ralph Lauren. Has been my go to perfume since highschool.
    
    
17. SFW Toy. She's evil but she's suitable for any setting!
    
    
18. Something that would be helpful for going back to school. Everyone needs to look stylish and stay cool for school!
    
    
19. Something related to my current obsession. I've become crazy about all things tea!
    
    
20. Something SO AMAZING! BEHOLD the splendor It's adorable, handmade, and I have seriously become so enamored with it! Thought you might like to see it's awesomeness.
    
    fear cuts deeper than swords
    
    Thanks for the fun contest
    

It's this one! And I absolutely love it. I've had it for a couple years now with no issues! Sometimes all three of my kitties squish into ir. :)

Sunny seat cat bed

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005AUM8U0

I haven't had any trouble with it at all! It's still in the same exact spot as the day I put it up which was 3 months ago. I have another cat that's much bigger, 16 pounds, and he sits up there just fine. They love the heck out of it. This is the one I have.

I have one of these, while not "auto cleaning" in the sense that you have to physically rotate the box it eliminates the need to scoop. Coupled with a Litter Genie it takes me less than 30 seconds to empty my (2) cat's litter box.

Eventually I'll get myself a Litter-Robot but for now this is just fine.

For those of you, like me, struggling with cleaning litter, this catbox changed my whole experience.

Just roll it upside down, pat the bottom (now top) of the box, bring rightside-up, and all the litter has been collected in the scoop to dispose of. Bam.

My husband took over the job but he bought this litter box from amazon and we love it! It has a filter inside so all you do is roll it to the right and the clean litter sifts through the filter while the clumps collect in that scoop thingy. Then you just take the scoop out and trash it and that's it. No contact with anything.

For everyone who says it is too expensive, here is the litter box I use which has the same sifting and turning process for $40, the only difference is that you turn it yourself instead of having a motor turn it for you. The litter all sifts into a long scooper for you to toss out.

I have a covered box you just roll over to scoop. It's great, and it won't break like the automatic boxes.

This is the one I'm referring to to avoid.. Good luck in your search!

Buy this. It is the best thing to ever happen to cat owners.

This is what I've used

DrTim's Aquatics Ammonium chloride - 2 oz bottle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006MP4QG6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_S-5kxbAFHCDW9

http://www.amazon.com/DrTims-Aquatics-Ammonium-chloride-Aquarium/dp/B006MP4QG6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405305547&sr=8-1&keywords=ammonia+aquarium

Using an all-in-one like thrive makes the likelihood of nutrients skewing upwards more likely, but with only plantstock I don't think there's any ethical concerns with that. If that happens you'll have to do water changes to rectify it.

If the volume is large you might as well dose macroferts individually (usually as dry ferts) then you don't have to worry about a run-up, you instead can just stop dosing the relevant nutrient. Also, since you have no livestock, you can dose ammonia (which plants love, in reasonable concentrations) instead of nitrates.

If you are unsure about your ammonia levels, I would not add fish. Retest, and make sure you follow the instructions on the test kit to the letter. If you are still unsure, but suspect it is zero, you can force an ammonia spike with this stuff, then retest and track your levels with an easier to read ammonia color. Good luck, and I hope your tank is cycled and ready!

Forget the fish food, it's too hard to dose properly. Get this or any kind of 100% household ammonia with no additives and use it instead.

It’s possible! I’ve had similar stuff happen. But the only way to know for sure is to put actual ammonia in there and test it. Most people say 1ppm/day ammonia removal (with no nitrate spike) means it’s cycled.

Or test your tap water, and if you find it has ammonia (lots of public suppliers use chloramine to keep water clean, which shows up on our tests and is available to the bacteria as ammonia), do a big water change. Check it 24 hrs later; if 0ppm, it’s cycled

You can get ammonia on amazon or at a hardware or grocery store (with the cleaners). Make sure it’s only got ammonia in it.

I am nearing the end of my 10g planted cycle, I used dr Tim's ordered on amazon. Easy to use, 10 drops per 10g = 2 ppm.

http://www.amazon.ca/DrTims-Aquatics-830-Ammonium-chloride/dp/B006MP4QG6/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1421115957&sr=1-1

Seachem will not help cycle your tank without an ammonia source to feed the bacteria. Letting a tank run for a month will not cycle either. The bacteria you are trying to cultivate need ammonia and then nitrite to feed off of and grow. I would buy DrTim's Aquatics - Ammonium Chloride Solution for Fishless Cycling - 2 oz Bottle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006MP4QG6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_WVdUCbT3KS740 and dose the tank to about 2ppm ammonia continue to keep 1-2ppm present until nitrites return to zero and nitrates are all that show up. Then do a big water change. Do not clean the filter with this change as it will get rid of a good portion of your good bacteria. When you do clean the filter in the future make sure it isn't the same day as a water change. Hope this helps your future skrimps

Something like Dr Tims?

I looked at it this morning, but figured if I could expect to wait another day or two for the cycle to start it may not be worth it, but I’m guessing I should pick it up then?

I've used this product, and it worked great.

Here’s an inexpensive filter I use and a heater . You’re gonna need a API master test kit. It’s recommended that you cycle your tank. You can do a fishless cycle in which you’ll need ammonia to start the cycle. Or you can do fish-in cycling and add him after you put the water in.
Bettas love plants! Silk or real plants are the way to go, you should avoid plastic because it will rip their fins. if you get real plans i suggest java fern because it’s super hardy

I've heard this stuff works well although I have no experience with it. I use this on my tanks with API quickstart. I let it sit until all the ammonia is consumed. As long as there is some nitrites still showing up then I drop a few fish pellets in to keep the nitrifying bacteria fed. Once the nitrites drop back to zero I do a 50% WC. After that a weekly 20% PWC. Slowly introducing livestock. Hope that helps

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006MP4QG6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478123759&sr=8-1&keywords=tim+ammonia

Oh no, that's terrible. I had a cat that was like this. He'd keep peeing on the same spots on a rug and I had to re-train him.

You need to spend a few strict days with her litter training her again. After eating, after waking up from sleep and after playing take her directly to the litter box. If you notice her drinking a lot of water or something, take her to the litter box. Make sure it's not next to an unpleasant place like a washing machine or the trash. Cats don't like loud or pungent smells and their nose is really sensitive. Also make sure to keep the box in the same place and if it makes sense in your situation, have two littler boxes in different places in the house. Also, if you're using an enclosed litter box, take the top off while you train her, until you feel confident that she's using it consistently.


You also need to spot clean everything she has peed on. Rocco and Roxie's pet odor and stain remover is what I use and I have 2 cats and a puppy. It works great! It really gets in deep to rid of the scents we people can't smell but animals can. Cats, specially dominant cats, tend to pee over the place where they peed previously because they have claimed it as theirs. If it smells like urine they're likely to go pee on it again.


Also, keep your parents bedroom closed and off-limits as often as you can. It's possible to train a cat to not go into a certain room. None of my pets are allowed in my computer room unless I'm in there and they avoid it even when I keep the door open.


You can also ask your vet. It might be something else that is bothering her, maybe her food or maybe the litter that you use. Try different things. Some cats don't like scented litter or chaulk-y litter.


Good luck!

The best way to prevent doggy messes is to immediately start crate training. Get your dog used to the crate, and over time you can slowly let your dog have a bit more freedom in the apartment. And if he's out for play or hanging out then you have to supervise him and hopefully distract him and take him outside if you see him about to start his business.

You can get an odor/stain remover and have that handy for accidents. As far as killing the carpet, you have to let them know that there are better, more fun alternatives.

Zak George's Dog Training youtube channel is a good place to start learning, imo. But honestly, I can't stress crate training enough. You have to teach the dog where it's okay to go.

First, you need to identify if it's a behavioral or medical issue. Medical problems are the most common cause of going outside the litter box.

If it's behavioral, a whole host of things could be the cause. It's possible your cat doesn't like its litter, its litter box is in a place not easily accessible, or somewhere the cat doesn't feel safe, or it doesn't like the box (too small, covered, uncovered,etc...). Lastly, make sure you clean the box everyday, sometimes if it gets too dirty a cat will stop using the box.

While you're trying to figure out the cause you can (if feasible) place aluminum foil over the place your cat usually pees, they don't like the sound/feel and will avoid going there. Get a good urine/feces enzyme cleaner. It will remove any remaining scent that your cat may be drawn to. One like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CKFL93K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_h1ftDbCQBJG9E

Good luck, hope this helps!

I have heard good things about Nature's Miracle, but also heard that they are not what they used to be. This was recommended to me as a replacement, and it's worked well in my home:

http://www.amazon.com/Professional-Strength-Stain-Odor-Eliminator/dp/B00CKFL93K

I use an industrial chemical called Consume by Spartan Chemical but it's not going to be available at any normal retail store, only janitorial supply companies and stores. You can probably find a different enzymatic cleaner at your local supermarket, they're usually marketed as cleaners for pet messes (OUT!, Nature's Miracle), but they work as well on other organic matter.

Here's one available online: https://smile.amazon.com/Professional-Strength-Stain-Odor-Eliminator/dp/B00CKFL93K

Use some baking soda to soak up the wetness, then vacuum.

Next, use some enzymatic cleaner to get rid of the smell.

If you own live with cats, you should always have some of that cleaner around anyway.

Yup, that's probably what is happening. Get an enzymatic cleaner. Something like this.

You cannot prevent pet accidental peeing, Fortunately you can clean it up almost entirely with very little damage.

First thing you will need is a small portable black light, For identifying where the spots are.

Second you will need an enzyme cleaner to remove the urine completely. http://www.amazon.com/Pet-Odor-Eliminator-Urine-Cleaner/dp/B00CKFL93K

Third you will need something to get the enzyme cleaner into the carpet and padding underneath, http://www.amazon.com/Marinade-Injector-Syringe-Cooking-Poultry/dp/B008Y9GS7S

In a darkened room a black light will cause the urine spot to glow, Fill the injector with enzyme cleaner and then inject into the carpet and pad, The enzyme will eat the urine completely and then die off.

Good luck and love your pets.

You need an enzymatic cleaner or one that will break down the molecular structure of the mildew.

Something like this - https://www.amazon.com/Rocco-Roxie-Supply-Co-Professional/dp/B00CKFL93K/ref=sr_1_21?ie=UTF8&qid=1536852308&sr=8-21&keywords=carpet+cleaner+spray

Pour like half the bottle onto the area where the smell is occuring. Let it sit for 20 minutes then get up all the moisture via shop vac or other carpet cleaner. Get it as dry as possible. the smell should fade away within a day.

Here's a molecular one - https://www.amazon.com/Ozium-Original-Spray-Mist-Sprays/dp/B003VSECIY/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1536852426&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=ozium&psc=1&smid=A3NI681A613SJA

Warning, it's stupid powerful. Like, open your windows and leave the room for a bit.

I prefer Rocco & Roxie. It has never failed me and is way more effective, imo: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CKFL93K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HjKKDbZYH3BRH

She might have a UTI, and is associating the litter box with her pain. Take her to the vet for confirmation.

Clean the area with an enzyme cleaner. Add another litter box as /u/ajru222 suggested. You can also add a litter attractant.

I know of this product from two of my friends and I see it has many great reviews so you might want to try it. Good luck :)

If you can get this type of stuff it works really well. I've had to clean up my share of cat piss. https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Strength-Stain-Odor-Eliminator/dp/B00CKFL93K

This stuff does wonders when my kitty with chronic diarrhea misses the litter box. Not sure how it would work for human poops.

http://www.amazon.com/Professional-Strength-Stain-Odor-Eliminator/dp/B00CKFL93K/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?ie=UTF8&ref_=s9_mbia_gw_d81_g199_i4

You should use an enzyme-based cleaner to take care of the smell, especially if it’s in carpet (some info as to why).

This one works pretty well.

Enzymatic cleaner plus upholstery cleaning machine?

We use this enzymatic cleaner for pet messes and it works for human pee too: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CKFL93K

I have this upholstery cleaning machine and it works pretty well - you can make your own cleaning solution instead of using their branded stuff, but it comes with some sample sizes of the branded stuff: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07D46F8S5/

This stuff is amazing!

It gets out animal pee smell better than anything I've ever used. I have a freaking super power sense of smell and it gets cat pee smell (which is the worst smell ever)out completely.

I'd get a finnex clip on or the lower light one. Trying to carpet without co2 or high light is a bit a bollock, you won't really get the lawn effect you are looking for in low tech. You'll be able to keep the hair grass alive, but not the monte carlo

>My husband gave me an Amazon gift card for my birthday so that I can upgrade my planted tank.

Is this what married people do?

All joking aside, The light that comes with it isn't too good, but should probably work with low-light plants. If you want something that will grow most plants, you can check out a small clip-on like this. https://www.amazon.com/Finnex-FugeRay-Aquarium-Moonlights-Cliplight/dp/B00LIL7YPE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469052287&sr=8-1&keywords=finnex+clip+on

No, generally speaking, any LED lights included with a starter kit will not be enough to keep plants alive. They just don't have nearly enough power, or the correct spectrum that plants require for photosynthesis. All they do is light up the tank and it's inhabitants.

If you're looking at a ~5gal tank and want to house low to medium light plants, I would suggest you snag one of these up at a $35 sale price right now:

http://www.amazon.com/Finnex-FugeRay-Aquarium-Moonlights-Cliplight/dp/B00LIL7YPE/ref=sr_1_4?m=A3E5ELDKVG03PY&s=merchant-items&ie=UTF8&qid=1411003284&sr=1-4

Nice thing is it clips on, so your tank size doesn't matter too much.

I have the same Exo Terra that I set up in November. Once you get the substrate in there, you're going to need tiny plants as even many miniatures will look huge and take up lots of room. I have these species in mine: Bulb. catenulatum, Dendrochilum quadrilobium, E. polybulbon, Den. oligophyllum, Haraella retrocalla and a jewel orchid I can't remember (that will out grow the tank). I also have Pilea glauca and Peperomia meridiana. The Pilea forms a beautiful mat and grows quickly - I really recommend it. The Peperomia also needs frequent pruning. I also bought some cheap live sheet moss off eBay to provide accents - however, if you are patient- moss will grow in without much seeding. I light it with this: Finnex FugeRay Planted+ Clip Light but you could probably easily light it for a cheaper DIY set up.

Genera you should check out are Dryadella, Porroglossum, Scaphosepalum, Masdevalli, Lepanthes, Pleurothallis, Bulbophyllum, Phalaenopsis, Schoenorchis, Encyclia, Epidendrum, Dendrobium, Aerangis and Restrepia - there are some super minis in all these groups and most have some members that are tolerant of a wide range of conditions or, at least, wherever your conditions fall.

When I am planning out a terrarium and the species I want in it, I typically start at Andy's Orchids and used his power search feature to find miniatures within my conditions. Then I end up trying to find images of them that show the whole plant size - one person's miniature does not necessarily line up with mine so I want a visual.

I'm going to guess it's a finnex like the one I have.
http://www.amazon.com/Finnex-FugeRay-Aquarium-Moonlights-Cliplight/dp/B00LIL7YPE/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1415809815&sr=1-1&keywords=finnex+clip

[This one] (https://www.amazon.com/Finnex-FugeRay-Aquarium-Moonlights-Cliplight/dp/B00LIL7YPE/ref=pd_aw_sim_199_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00LIL7YPE&pd_rd_r=25ce5c9e-e267-11e8-8349-9126162516c7&pd_rd_w=hldgy&pd_rd_wg=Jz5r5&pf_rd_i=mobile-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=57b46099-d750-4d74-83ee-63ad64b310a4&pf_rd_r=JJ92WT8SGYJ1YY6N57MC&pf_rd_s=mobile-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=JJ92WT8SGYJ1YY6N57MC) if you are really wanting to get into plants if not [this one] (https://www.amazon.com/Finnex-StingRAY-Clip-Light-Aquarium/dp/B00LMH10HC) will do fine.

My betta is in an aqueon 5 gallon tank with an Aquaclear 20 filter and an Eheim Jager 25W heater. Water parameters at perfect 0/0/<5.

I also have a Finnex Planted+ clip-on light, but unless you're growing live plants, it might be too much light.

this was my first tank. i like the tetra cube a lot but i eventually upgraded because i wanted more space. from my experience the LED was not bright enough for plants, so i ended up buying a Finnex Fugeray clip. The one I have is not on amazon anymore but I think this is a better version.

http://www.amazon.com/Finnex-FugeRay-Aquarium-Moonlights-Cliplight/dp/B00LIL7YPE

http://www.amazon.com/Finnex-StingRAY-Clip-Light-Aquarium/dp/B00LMH10HC

This will be the perfect match for low-light plants.

I personally have this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LIL7YPE

It worked very well for my 5g Fluval Chi with Java moss, dwarf hairgrass, micro swords, hornwort, and bladderwort.

I'm currently using it on a 20g long and the growth from my micro swords, anubias nana, Java moss, Java ferns, and wild bacopa is excellent. I keep it about 6" from the surface of the water. Some brown diatoms have formed directly below it on a piece of dead coral, but that's probably from a combination of recently cycling and a long photoperiod.


As long as you have a relatively short photoperiod or break up the photoperiod to "confuse" the algae, you should be fine. Flourish Excel definitely helps, as does hornwort if you don't mind it floating around.

Finnex fugeray, however if you want something cheaper than get one of those clip on lamps and use a cfl 6500k bulb

Your link didnt work for me but heres this Finnex FugeRay Planted+ Aquarium LED Light Plus Moonlights, Cliplight https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LIL7YPE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_RIksybPM0Y77A

Here is the desktop version of your link

Yeah, I don't know how it'd do with the depth of your tank, but it's definitely a sleek clean look.

http://www.amazon.com/Finnex-FugeRay-Aquarium-Moonlights-Cliplight/dp/B00LIL7YPE

I have a very expensive (relatively) set of LEDs on my 55 gallon that made my plants absolutely explode. They're called Finnex Fugeray Planted+ and a clip bar for the Chi would cost about 40 dollars and would keep up with the stylish design.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LIL7YPE/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1417778326&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX200_QL40

The thing to keep in mind when considering LEDs are the pros to having them. You don't suffer from "bulb deterioration", where the bulb's potential is lost halfway through its life, you have no replacement bulb costs, and they consume less energy. There is only one real con to LEDs, a set of good lights are much more expensive than bulbs. I say it is worth it though, almost two years on my LEDs and I've had to do nothing to maintain them.

That's funny you mention that one. It's actually the one that caught my eye, and I was thinking about getting it, that or this one

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LIL7YPE/ref=aw_wl_ov_dp_1_3?colid=2AS5E63OAVV3S&coliid=I29EFJYPYW51PL

Yeah that would be enough for low-medium light plants. The planted plus clip on would put you at medium-high light. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LIL7YPE/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1422337640&sr=8-2&dpPl=1&dpID=31ctlpwpY4L&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SX200_QL40

I would just do LED lighting. Much more sleek and efficient lighting. They will probably save you money in the long run too. LEDs last close to ten years. Flourescent uses more energy and you have to replace the bulbs routinely.

We have the catit fountain and my cats love it. My little girl was putting her paws in it within minutes and our boy was terrified. For a while, he would get close and then hiss at it. My roommate’s cat has had fountains before so he started drinking from it immediately. I spent some time dipping my finger in it and letting our boy lick the water off. Now, my cats love it. They prefer to drink from the fountain more than a dish of water. I use it without the yellow center of the flower after some trial - my cats like being able to drink where the water bubbles in the center and from the streams down the petals.

My local shelter has larger water fountains that look more like these. If your cats really like faucets they may like this better. The Catit isn’t very loud/splashy.

You can use a prefilter sponge to reduce the flow on the filter. http://www.amazon.com/Pre-Filter-Sponge-Pack-Fluval-Aquarium/dp/B004K9A15G/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

The filter current can be too strong for Bettas to swim against. Even in my larger tanks they struggle, and will often try to spend their time as far away from the filter outflow. People 'baffle', or slow down the outflow, in a variety of different ways. Personally I put a filter intake sponge, like this to avoid having any delicate fins sucked into the intake, and then also use a cut, clean water bottle over the flow like this

But your number one goal right now should be not the PH, but rather the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. Get a liquid test kit, and Prime by Seachem. Those are the two most important things you will ever purchase for the health of your fish. You can return the air stone. Bettas do not need it, and often the increased flow can stress them out.

Using Prime by Seachem as a water conditioner is the best thing you can do for fish in cycling. Widely available at LFS and even Petco. It binds up to 1ppm of Ammonia into a less toxic form, to safeguard against ammonia poisoning between water changes. I will never, ever, ever be without it ever again.

Seconding sponges! My Eheim's spray bar is a bit too forceful as well, and I have covered it with these Fluval cylinder sponges. I used a knife to poke a hole in the bottom of the sponge so I could easily slide it onto the bar. Of course, any shape of sponge can be cut and molded and tied where necessary. I just went for the fool proof option (alas, I am only a fool).

I cut off the bottom part of the 2nd intake tube that came with it (the pointy part), and used it to extend the tube. With an intake sponge https://www.amazon.com/Pre-Filter-Sponge-Pack-Fluval-Aquarium/dp/B004K9A15G/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1500078885&sr=1-1&keywords=aquaclear+intake+sponges, it is about 1cm off of my substrate.

Here are some links:

Fake grass you can float in the tank, and also put in the substrate-http://www.petsmart.com/fish/artificial-plants/top-fin-betta-grass-artificial-aquarium-plant-zid36-17760/cat-36-catid-300067?var_id=36-17760


Decor that can float-http://www.petsmart.com/supplies/ornaments/zoo-med-trade-floating-betta-log-zid36-17531/cat-36-catid-300071?var_id=36-17531


Aquarium safe filter sponge if you want to use that to baffle your tank-http://www.petsmart.com/fish/filter-media/marineland-rite-size-filter-pads-zid36-17130/cat-36-catid-300089?var_id=36-17130


Pre-filter sponge-http://www.amazon.com/Pre-Filter-Sponge-Pack-Fluval-Aquarium/dp/B004K9A15G


Plastic bottle filter baffle directions-http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=30139

Be mindful of sand getting into your filter and messing up the impeller magnet. Had it happen to me before when I had sand.

One thing you could do is buy this and put it over the intake:

http://www.amazon.com/Pre-Filter-Sponge-Pack-Fluval-Aquarium/dp/B004K9A15G

Petsmart sells them for like $2.

Probably. He looks fine for now, but you might want to consider a cover for your filter intake. Whether you buy one or make one, sponge pre-filters are good for a number of reasons. They slow the flow so a fish doesn't get stuck or have his fins ripped up. They also provide a good place for beneficial bacteria to grow.

How much do you feed him? The left over food stuck to the filter intake is a likely sign that he's getting over-fed. Most bettas gobble up an appropriate amount of food before it has a chance to get sucked into the filter.

Hrm, something is missing.

Here's the link at least: http://www.amazon.com/Pre-Filter-Sponge-Pack-Fluval-Aquarium/dp/B004K9A15G

get pre-filter sponges next time, they work great and all you have to do is rinse it off. amazon link

I run an aquaclear 50 on my 10gal and an aquaclear 30 on my 5gal. You could easily add another 20 and run them together or go with a single bigger one. Bigger ones will have a stronger flow output (though it is adjustable with aquaclears) so keep that in mind if you have fish that struggle with current (like bettas).

Edit: a sponge filter would be good too. But you'll get more bang for your buck with a second hob. You can add a sponge to the intake of the hobs for added filtration.

Here is the mobile version of your link

Here you go:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004K9A15G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I think there is a larger pack too. And it doesn't just fit fluval. Mine is an Aqueon.

You definitely need a sponge for your filter intake, I got these here https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004K9A15G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also use these prefilter sponges in addition to the sponge inside my filter. I pull them off and rinse them ever couple of weeks.

What you need to prevent the is a prefilter media

Hi!!!! I'm PBG and not a lot of people know that I was supposed to be a twin! I guess there were two embryos, but the other one stopped developing after the first trimester. Thank God, right?

I love love love my cats and I think they would love this sunny seat window cat bed thing. Ezra loves to sit in the sun and I bet he would just love it =)

I need a place for my pet Iguana to hang out!

I took a sip of something poison, but I'll hold on tight

thanks for the contest! :)

Amazon!

I bought it off amazon.ca but that's the model on the .com site.

On amazon! Both my cats loves it! My other cat is 17lbs and the hammock is holding up great :)

Oster Sunny Seat Window Cat Bed https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B005AUM8U0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rLdEDbQVN52TC

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B005AUM8U0/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_zHyRBbRW54049

If you're home all day, do you play with her much? My cats are always less irritating if I make them play for at least 15 minutes a day.

She probably just wants to inspect that room. Did she have regular access to it before the baby came? Does baby's room have a nice window?

If it's a window thing I would try making other windows in the house a more appealing place for her to hang. Add a suction bed or something. https://www.amazon.com/Oster-Sunny-Seat-Window-Mounted-Cat/dp/B005AUM8U0

Let me know if this link works!

Yes, /u/drusual is a super swell guy!

Yes, isn't it awesome?! It is made very well and is super sturdy!

I bet your kitty loves it!

Ahhh, thank youuu!

If you have a place for it, this is pretty awesome. I have one and it's so adorable to me when I see my kitty laying on it the sun. Had to take it down for the winter though because the only spot we could put it doesnt get much sun this time of year ^^;

They are only $15 on amazon

Here's a Removable, door-mounted climber!

And a Suction cup, window-mounted ledge. I've seen loads of pictures of cats who just love that one!

Thanks for the contest!

I am so very sorry for your loss. He looks like such a sweetie, and a total Teddy Bear. It's amazing how some of the biggest dogs can be some of the sweetest. Here is an album of my beasties.

I know my kitties would love one of these. Thank you for the contest.

[Amazon!](Sunny Seat Window-Mounted Cat Bed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005AUM8U0/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Nnkdvb19VEPSG
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005AUM8U0/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Nnkdvb19VEPSG)

Glad you took your meds. I find a consistent dosing schedule really does help so I try to do mine with an alarm. Back when I was on BC pills I was religious about taking those on time, I kept them on my bedside table, lol.

My kitty is such a dork, he can't really do walks because he wants to eat all of the grass. If I let him he will eat himself sick. He got shut outside when we were bringing in groceries one night and I ran out about an hour later in a panic just KNOWING he would be gone or my a-hole neighbors dog would have hurt him, but no, he's eating grass ten feet from the door and purring.

I bought him a little contraption on Amazon this 'window mounted cat bed' and it helps him accept that he doesn't always get to go outside. It does come unstuck and dump him out sometimes, so I wouldn't set it up on a high window.

He loves our bed too. He's figured out that he can pull the corner of the fitted sheet off and lay directly on the gel mattress cover when he's hot.

I try to only open the doors if I have pants on, because my yard has 0 privacy (yay fences are expensive) and he bolts right for the garden beds that are like twenty five feet from the door. My neighbors front door is parallel to my back porch and he smokes outside a lot so it's kind of awkward anyway.

However I have gone out at one in the morning to loudly but fairly politely ask my other neighbors to quiet down because it was one in the fracking morning and their music was vibrating my brain. They were nice and turned it off and moved inside, proooobabbly because they thought I was a little crazy with my bed head skull pj pants. Oh well. :D

Oster Sunny Seat Window Cat Bed https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B005AUM8U0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_tni-AbV927RHV

I really don't know about the door problem, but if you think a cat tree would help then I recommend getting something like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005AUM8U0?pc_redir=1411810177&robot_redir=1

It gives your cat something to climb up and lie on but doesn't take up any floor space and isn't heavy. You could get a few of them for different heights.

I bought my cat tree on eBay for pretty cheap (I have a small cat though, so don’t have to worry as much about really good stability). I also recently bought a couple of things on amazon since I don’t have a lot of time to play with my cat. Window bed: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B005AUM8U0 and Door toy: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B002Q41UFC

I got this one three years ago https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B005AUM8U0/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and it’s holds my 14lb Siberian no problem. Suction cups do a great job

These are pretty sweet

So long as your cat is not too big (say, ~12ish lbs or lighter), you want this box. Get the large size, as the litter box's biggest flaw is that it the usable inside area is a little small.


There is a reason that this is the #1 selling litter box on Amazon. Roll it over 180 degrees, roll it back, pull out a drawer, dump the drawer into the trash, replace the drawer, and you're done. No scooping, ever.

To be fair there isn't a screen between her and the waiting room.. her desk is off to one side. She did start out nice about Al being loud, but her expectations of little kids is too high. She did say nice things at first, and then proceeded to get worse about it. She did say "aren't you going to do something?" And huffed whenever Al climbed on top of the chair and I was holding Levi..... I wanted to snap at her, but I refrained because I really like my dentist.

We've been thinking about getting something closer to this ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005E2S77C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IOVDxbBGGG8XW ) for the litter box because of space... I dunno. She only does this with fresh litter. It could be month old nasty litter and she won't do it... the clear storage box would be cheaper but we have no wear for it to go.