(Part 2) Best pipe fittings & pipes according to redditors

Four inch fittings are usually made to fit inside a hose -- not to mate with other fittings. So use a short length of hose, or a Fernco plumbing flexible coupling sleeve, to connect them.

For shop-vac hoses, the fittings come in male and female. For example, you can get a F-F coupler (just a short length of plastic pipe) to connect two male 2.5-in fittings.

For reference, the shop-vac male 2.5 fittings have an outer-diameter (OD) of about 2.28-in but are usually slightly tapered. The female fittings have an ID of about 2.30-in.

I also find this coupler useful, which is male shop-vac on one side, and male 4-in hose on the other:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M3J60O6

This ~$135

I also have iron in my water, and had a rotten egg smell from the hot water tap. There’s a type of (harmless, naturally occurring) bacteria that live in the hot water tank, that feed on iron in the water, and produce the rotten egg smell. Replacing your water heater’s anode rod with one containing zinc should stop that. It worked great for me. Here’s the rod that I used: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M4S7Y5A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-y1YDbKXG9JS8

Non-mobile: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FB56SAU/ref=redir_mdp_mobile/179-3844062-9825103

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

I tried a few options and ended up going to a metal supply store. Grabbed some 1x1 aluminum tube, had them cut two 16ft lengths in half and then ordered these

Aluminum Alloy 3 Way L Shape Square Tube Clamp Tube Connector Pipe Fittings

I mostly use it for low risk stuff but it’s pretty solid. You should at least buy the right grip gear to hold this stuff down.

Don't buy the A.O. Smith rigid rod. There is nothing special about theirs. Get a flexible unit. Available in aluminum/zinc, and magnesium.

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Lightning-79098-Residental-Magnesium/dp/B007ZI385E

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Lightning-Aluminum-Flexible-Anode/dp/B00M4S7Y5A

Looks like this. The valve part is set back so the water cuts off inside your house. So there is less chance it will freeze.

Homewerks VFF-ASP-C19PA Anti-Siphon Frost Free Sillcock, 1/2-Inch Male Thread or 1/2-Inch Solder, 1/2-Inch inlet by ¾ inch garden hose thread outlet by 12-Inch in length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D4VE1MA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hwqiDb9VY8SBX

Yep, you need one of these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BC057UK/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00BC057UK&linkCode=as2&tag=aquarnetwo-20&linkId=P7JMPQCUL77BXB44
so you don't waste water.
You can message me if you need any help installing it

The white line? That's coming from the dishwasher. I think, I can use these two items where the dishwasher connects.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001TIZI68/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WnvhAb5R5TFDK

And

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009XDMEK4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_sqvhAb4MS86DC

GX16-2
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FB56SAU/ref=redir_mdp_mobile/179-3844062-9825103

I don't see why you would need 2 coolers. Also those cylindrical coolers are more expensive than the rectangular ones by quite a bit. The stir plate is overkill even though it's "free".

Make your own mash tun! This is all stainless unlike the one you linked. Brass sucks.

52 quart cooler $39

Stainless spigot with bulkhead and bushing $29

6" stainless screen $10

1/2" stainless barb adapter $7

And some 1/2" foodsafe silicone tubing, maybe 3 feet

Assembly is super easy, just remove the plastic spigot and put on the stainless one.

I was just curious as to Water Hammer Arrestor.I found this on Amazon, it has different sizes and looks like it could fix your issue, quick and easy for a DIY'r.

Yeah, you can get them at places like Home Depot and amazon for around $25.

https://smile.amazon.com/PlumBest-M25127R3-2-Inch-27-Inch-Water/dp/B0069QU7Z2

It's called water hammer and is very common with washers.

These will sort it out: https://smile.amazon.com/Sioux-Chief-Mfg-4-Inch-Female/dp/B07DLPB9QS

Cheers.

Water shut-off valve compatibility as well:
https://www.amazon.com/EcoNet-Controls-EBV105-Automatic-Water-Shutoff/dp/B010MG372E/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_txt?ie=UTF8

Would these help with the washer? Or is it what you already have? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013TLMCZM/ref=asc_df_B013TLMCZM5270139

Pick up some of these, will enable you to route the tube flat against the top and out the back for a cleaner look. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZ2PLCR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yPQRCbDGAP8MA
Been considering doing a float valve with my breville to avoid constant filling.

The only piece I had to fabricate is the little black cube in the top. I made that from a piece of 1/2" acrylic. I drilled a 90 degree hole into the top and side of it. Then used epoxy to attach it to the fan with the wires going through it. I had to snip the wire adapter off to do this. The holes I drilled into the cube were the exact same diameter of the male piece of the quick connect barb. This kept it snug but also allowed it to rotate in the hole.

Next, I then fished the wires through the quick connect fittings and through the quick connect bulkhead. After the wiring was all the way though, i re-soldered the wire adapter and used heat shrink tubing to seal it all together.

Once everything was wired up I connected the fans to a 4 channel PC fan controller and fired it up. I do have to say I am very happy with the results.fan closeups

All parts were bought on amazon or ebay. Mistkings fittings while black are nice, they are very expensive compared to the white ones I found on amazon. The fans were bought on ebay and were very cheap. I estimate I built 4 of the fans for about $30.00 USD

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vktech-5Pcs-Black-Brushless-DC-Cooling-Blower-Fan-5015S-5V-0-1-0-3A-50x15mm-/183518100748?hash=item2aba87fd0c


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YGR2ILM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZ2PLCR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is a bit of a longshot... If its the water pipes behind the furnace, you may be dealing with water hammering. I had something similar with my sprinkler system and it would vibrate (Though much much slower than yours). Water Hammering in short is caused by high water pressure in the pipes. Essentially the water gains momentum as it flows through and when it hits a right angle in the pipes the sudden change in momentum gets passed onto the pipe itself (Because the water won't compress to absorb the shock). Air in the pipes can also make this worse as air is compressible, but the water is not. Lastly, you see water hammering more in modern devices that shut off water quickly to conserve water. The sudden shut-off causes a shock to the flow of water (I had this problem with my washing machine).

Things to look into:

1. At a hardware store you can get various kinds of water pressure gauges. Ideally, put one on (for me it was my outside hose bib that was easiest to attach to), and measure the water pressure. I googled what the ideal water pressure should be for my house and went from there. Being in a 10 story apartment I couldn't tell you what PSI you should have.
   
   
2. Water Arrestors are a weird thing that exist ( Amazon Link). Essentially they act as shock absorbers for water pressure. I had to install 2 on my washing machine (again because of the high PSI). There's lots of different kinds that can be attached at various points in the plumbing.
   
   
3. Pressure Relief Valve - In the end I had to get one installed just after the main line entered my property. This regulated the water pressure for my entire house. This was also rather expensive. Again being in a 10 story apartment this may not be a viable option. But 1 and 2 should be worth investigating.

Thanks! I ended up ordering these:
Decor Star VSF38-27 3/8" OD 6 mm ID Vessel Sink Faucet Stainless Steel Flexible Water Supply Hoses 27" Long, UPC, cUPC x 2 (1 Pair) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00EA15BJK/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_mCHyCbD90B1TG

You may not need a frost free in FL, but you should install one with an integral vacuum breaker (anti-siphon). This prevents water from the hose being siphoned back into your potable water system. Anymore, hose bibbs with a vacuum breaker are required by code, and most of them just happen to also be frost free (meaning the actual valve is housed at the back of the fixture, which would place it inside the conditioned space of the house instead of outside at the point of use).

This is what you want. If you scroll down and look at "People also bought..." you'll see a SharkBite FIP. Get that, as well. Cut your pipe back inside the house to where it needs to be using a tubing cutter (NOT a hacksaw... you need a clean cut), pop the SharkBite FIP on, and screw the new sillcock into it (with a couple wraps of tape). The SharkBite can rotate on the pipe, so the orientation of your new hose bibb is whatever you want it to be; just screw it onto the house when it's pointing the right way.

Like others have said, one of these is probably more along the line of what you want.

And no, you generally should not move the drain to one of the higher openings. Its at the bottom because that's where you want your condensate draining from. Ideally, you would install one of these in the higher openings to shut the system down if your drain clogs and water rises to that level.

you're missing a little piece in your RODI, some come with them, some dont.

Its this little doodad

Don't use a drain saddle, use a DLA-D drain adapter. It hooks to the dishwasher drain at the garbage disposal and allows you to tee in the RO drain. It's completely reversible and less likely to leak in the future. https://www.amazon.com/Watts-Premier-164020-Plumbing-Adapter/dp/B009XDMEK4

If you don't want to use the DLA-D then drill the black elbow coming off the disposal

I have the dual fuel smoker. Get a needle valve, it works. It takes very minor adjustments to slow the fuel. You'll need tape, and extra propane gas line as well. You will have to keep an eye on it to make sure it doesn't blow out, but it hasn't done it on me yet. I got exactly this:

http://www.amazon.com/LASCO-17-1631-8-Inch-Straight-Needle/dp/B008E5C7NG

http://www.amazon.com/Camco-59913-Propane-Hose-Assembly/dp/B007HG7Y7M

http://www.amazon.com/44094-Slic-Tite-Thread-Premium-Length/dp/B004MYFPAK

Grab one of these to use as your Hot Lauter Tun and you're good to go. Just drain your sparge water from your keggle in (I typically aim 5ish degrees high to accommodate heat loss on the transfer). Then vorlauf your mashtun and drain the first runnings into the now empty kettle. Start heating the kettle. Dump the sparge water from your cooler HLT into your mashtun (don't forget to close the spigot first!). Aim for 168 F final temperature (I use 180 F sparge water). Stir in, wait 5 minutes, then vorlauf and finally drain into your boil kettle.

If you want, you can modify your cooler HLT with a spigot so you can drain from it instead of having to dump (or pump out if you get into that).

This is the hose https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005SPLBWS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_1y8XBbF9F2V80

And I'd also like to add that I've had this for 3 months and no issues so far but I wouldn't mind preventing a burst from happening

If this is the case, you can use a air admittance valve under the sink. https://www.amazon.ca/Oatey-39017-Sure-Vent-Admittance-Adapter/dp/B0069KCZO4/ref=asc_df_B0069KCZO4/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292930174785&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4194651304515183041&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1001849&hvtargid=pla-311232934043&psc=1

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They are well within the capability of most DIYers. Put in a Y downstream from the trap, then run pipe to put the valve as close to the top of the undersink space as you can. Not sure why these aren't used more often rather than running stacks.

Does anyone know where I can find square tube fittings like https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Alloy-Square-Connector-Fittings/dp/B01G6Z6B1Y and https://www.amazon.com/Square-Tube-Fittings-Way-Plate/dp/B00HRY2U4G?

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I've called a bunch of companies here and they don't have it. It seems that the preferred way here to join square tubing here is welding!

I bought one of these and shut my own valve off at the street. It's easy if you know where it is. Nobody will ever know...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0069QU7Z2/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_-WFTDbF7MASXY

You are correct and this is the one I have.

https://www.amazon.com/LASCO-17-1631-8-Inch-Straight-Needle/dp/B008E5C7NG/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=lasco+3%2F8+needle+valve&qid=1563645759&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Here is the mobile version of your link

> angle stop adaptor valve

Something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/John-Guest-ASVPP5LF-Angle-Adapter/dp/B00N4NDQN8

Regular old heat transfer plates should be cheaper if you're willing to build around them.

Eg
https://www.amazon.com/Ft-Aluminum-Transfer-Radiant-Heating/dp/B009KT7PO6

Also, instead of all that nonsense, you could just get the adapter that's literally made for that...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M3J60O6/

Ya, thinking about it a bit more I will probably skip the floor heating for the garage. More effort than it's worth. Might do a couple loops in the house though. Maybe something like https://www.amazon.com/Ft-Aluminum-Transfer-Radiant-Heating/dp/B009KT7PO6 since I have a partially finished basement that give me access to the most of the floors on the main level.

That was my fallback plan, but I actually found, after much searching, a replacement for the proprietary supply lines on Amazon. For anyone else with this problem: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EA15BJK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1.

They used a very similar trap as the one you linked. In the 16 years I've been here, I've only had one clog in the trap, everything else was much farther down the drain line after it enters the walls/floor. I'd love to go and replace it with a slightly larger diameter pipe, but to do that I'd need to cut up my downstairs neighbor's ceilings, and I'm just not wanting to do that.

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While yeah, I'd be upset if the trap fell out and poured water everywhere, the old one was unglued from June '03 (when I bought, probably earlier) to Nov '18 when the system was replaced. Never had an issue with it coming undone.

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I'll probably end up picking up some unions and calling it a day

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Edit: Pretty sure this is the trap I've got. I'd upload a pic of my setup but can't hit image hosting from work :/

Hope you're using a stainless steel flex supply line.. this if you are there is no problem bending it ,it was made for that.