(Part 2) Best plastic raw materials according to redditors

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We found 328 Reddit comments discussing the best plastic raw materials. We ranked the 156 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.

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Subcategories:

Plastic bars
Plastic film
Plastic rods
Plastic sheets
Plastic Shims & Shim Stock
Plastic spheres
Plastic tubes

Top Reddit comments about Plastic Raw Materials:

u/affixqc · 20 pointsr/Wellthatsucks

People who use acrylic balls for contact juggling have to keep them in a pouch or bag. If left out, they have a tendency to start fires. Not fun!

u/Karlemagne · 9 pointsr/bikewrench

I think kydex might be a good choice. It is pretty cheap, and also heat moldable. Just make sure to check the thickness of the sheets before you buy. If they are too thick, they won't be very flexible. The .060 inch thickness is pretty stiff, but still bendable by hand. You can pop it in the oven and then lay it on a cylindrical object to achieve the desired curve, and then use a heat gun (or a candle, if you're feeling cheap) if you want a more custom fit.

https://www.amazon.com/Kydex-Plastic-Sheets-Black-0-060/dp/B00HAS1VSK/ref=sr_1_4?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1495674072&sr=1-4&keywords=kydex

Otherwise, I have also had luck with those flexible plastic cutting boards, like these:

https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Plastic-Cutting-Colorful-Kitchen/dp/B01HN7ZGUQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1495674423&sr=1-2&keywords=flexible+cutting+boards

They are pretty good for making crud-catcher type fenders, with liberal use of zip-ties, of course.

Good luck!

u/macbooklover91 · 7 pointsr/longrange

Parts list:

u/dubadub · 5 pointsr/Multicopter

Sintra is a plastic sheet product made from PVC. It's easily available in 6mm and 3mm thicknesses.

For a project of this size any wood product is going to fail quickly. Plastics and composite/graphite are the way to go.

u/Frognosticator · 4 pointsr/DnDIY

Very cool.

FYI, I’ve been crafting a few floating monsters lately, and I’m a big fan of using 1/4” acrylic (lucite) plastic rods to suspend them in midair.

These rods are cheap, easy to cut and work with, and more than sufficiently sturdy.

u/Wokoran · 3 pointsr/DIY

I think an acrylic panel (that is thick enough supported) would work well. You can cut it with a saw and could purchase it clear or white which I'm sure would match your refrigerator. Check Amazon. It can be scratched though so I might go with white instead of clear.

u/fu_gravity · 3 pointsr/weightlifting

I'll be posting links to related items in Amazon and elsewhere so you can get an idea. By no means is this an endorsement for Amazon (peh, I wish) but just to get an idea of costs. This would be identical to the platform my coach and I made and it dampens sound very well. As mentioned, stable mats are quite dense and do not deaden the vibrations particularly well. Going with a composite "fleck" rubber flooring holds it's shape well and deadens the sound much better. A layer of cork between your base layers will further deaden the vibrations. Finally, making sure you have a full 8'x8' platform (or larger if you can manage it) will deaden the vibrations the most.

IF you shop around you can likely build this for under $200 (provided you can use HDF/particle board for the runway). Most likely if you are in a hurry it might cost about $50 more.

  • 5 Sheets of plywood. 4 of them can be "builder grade", i.e. cheaper and 3/4" thick. Top layer will need to be as thick as the rubber sheeting you select and should be of a better quality to avoid splinters and knots. In dry climates High density particleboard actually makes a great platform because it is cheap, has a dry, paper-like texture which is great for grip, but it can swell in humid climates.

  • Enough cork sheeting to sandwich a single layer on two 4'x8' sheets of plywood. amazon link for cork sheeting

  • 1 roll (for an 8x8 or 8(w)x10(l) platform of fleck composite gym flooring. amazon link for gym flooring

  • Flooring adhesive, 8 flat-head wood screws with washers, and 6 3/4" "taper head" wood screws.

  1. Set two sheets of plywood lengthwise, lightly coat with flooring adhesive, and place a single layer of cork on top of it. Coat the top of the cork with flooring adhesive as well.

  2. Layer two more sheets of plywood on top of the cork, in the opposite direction as the first layer.

  3. Cut the rubber to size, using the "outside" edge for the interior so the factory cuts line up easily with your runway. Place the runway in the middle of the platform. (Note: I don't advise using flooring adhesive on the top layer if you need to replace a component it makes it much easier)

  4. Secure the runway with 3 screws at the front and back (one in each corner with another in-between, none in the middle). Secure the wells (rubber) with the flat top screws and washers in each corner.


    Extra credit - lay your platform down on cheap rubber drainage mats to further ease vibrations, and to also have a place where plates can fall to the floor without damage to either plate or floor. link for drainage matting
u/Elbarfo · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

You'll want to get cooling on the fins for the hot end, for sure. That head (your appears to be a reprint) originally came with a little squirrel cage fan that sucked. This is a 40mm fan holder I designed that needs no mods to make fit.

They have done something terrible to the bed. I'm not sure what the thinking is behind all that but it all needs to go. Perhaps you can salvage one of the bed heaters (can't tell if it's still bonded to glass), but wow that's a mangled mess.

You will want to make sure that you have a 12x12 heater, a 12x12 sheet of glass and I strongly recommend getting a 12x12 [.06in. thick PEI sheet] (https://www.amazon.com/Polyetherimide-Standard-Tolerance-PEI0113-Thickness/dp/B0013HQ7B0/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_3?keywords=pei+sheet+.06&qid=1557608605&s=gateway&sr=8-3-fkmrnull) vs. the thinner stock style as it will last forever comparitively. I use one on my Taz5 and haven't needed to think about replacing it in over 2 years now.

The Taz's are tough printers. You'll be happy once you get it set up!

u/samsplinterc · 2 pointsr/knifeclub

Sure!

Basically, you need a few things: kydex sheet, heat gun (or oven, if you wanna do this at home), thermofoam, some wooden planks and G-clamps, hacksaw (Dremel would be better), eyelet (make sure you have the correct length and size) and eyelet setter, and teklok (belt attachment).

First, you wanna cut the kydex into the size that you want to use. I used taco style, so I wanna make sure the sheet can hug my knife.

Then you heat up the kydex sheet with the heat gun (or oven) until it becomes soft. Put the knife between the kydex sheet taco style. Press it hard with the thermofoam. Sandwich the thermofoam with wood planks and secure it with the G-clamps. After a few minutes, the kydex will cool down and you will have a roughly shaped sheath.

Draw outline on the sheath with pencil based on how you want the sheath to look like. Trim the sheath to size using hacksaw (or Dremel). Give about an inch slack from the blade area of the sheath.

Drill some holes on the sheath. I used 1/4" drill bit since I am using 1/4" eyelet. I also made sure that the holes are aligned with teklok holes, so I can attach the teklok using those holes (I messed this part up). Set the eyelet on those holes.

You are basically done here. You could use some sandpaper (or Dremel with sanding attachment) to smooth the edges of your sheath.

Hope this helps. There are many different guides out there, if you find mine confusing.

Cheers.

u/MrWally · 2 pointsr/DungeonsAndDragons

For the plexiglass, I think you can get something like this:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/OPTIX-24-in-x-48-in-x-093-in-Acrylic-Sheet-MC-13/202038048

or this:

https://www.amazon.com/Acrylic-Plexiglass-Plastic-Sheet-24/dp/B00C13ZSBA

Honestly, I just walked into a Home Depot and asked for a big sheet of plexiglass. It was about $25. Someone above suggested that Hobby Lobby may be cheaper.

Here's the battlemat:

https://www.amazon.com/Chessex-Role-Playing-Play-Mat/dp/B0015IQO2O

Grab some whiteboard markers, and the whole thing will run you about $50. But honestly, I've used this same setup for 4 years and it's been great.

A few thoughts:

  • The plexiglass doubles as a great protective surface for whatever table you're playing on. We've been saved from many spills because of it!
  • The plexiglass is a little heavy and cumbersome. My group meets at a different place every week, and it's a little annoying having to carry around everywhere. It's great if you have a dedicated gaming room, though.
  • The plexiglass can get dirty, but I never notice while playing. Just wipe it down with windex every now and then.
  • Get colored markers! It's so nice being able to track hp in red ink right next to minis as they move around the map, and my players love drawing out possible tactics/formations, etc.
u/ListenHereYouLittleS · 2 pointsr/woodworking

You can cut acrylic sheets easily with a circular saw, band saw, table saw, etc. The edges do not have to be perfect since it will be hidden in the frame.

http://www.amazon.com/Acrylic-Plexiglass-Plastic-Sheet-24/dp/B00C13ZSBA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462206658&sr=8-1&keywords=acrylic+24x36

Edit: depending on your frame, 1/4" might be too thick. I believe it is common to use 1/8" for framing.

u/MoronicusTotalis · 2 pointsr/DataHoarder

Buy some ABS sheets, cut, glue & assemble your own custom design.

https://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-Textured-Plastic-Sheet/dp/B00AKJA6SM

u/ToxYixs · 2 pointsr/battlestations

IMO this is the easiest way I know to cable manage. Buy THESE you can find them at walmart for like 2-4 bucks for a Large sheet, cut them to size and place them upright on back of desk to cover the wires. Its a super common thing to do, just get the same color one as your desk.

u/Mogurijin · 2 pointsr/Warhammer

I have used these blue Plastruct rods for an ice themed Necron warrior. They worked out alright, but the color is not as vibrant as GW's green rods. I'll see about posting a picture when I get home.

EDIT: Here are couple of pictures. The image probably does the rods a little disservice, but they are about that pale. I think some of the other colors were more vibrant.

u/BeachGlassBlazer · 2 pointsr/organization

You can order it in size and thickness

u/DesolationRobot · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Two options: laminate some thin panels to the walls. Either FRP or hardboard. FRP will reist scuffs better, but both will save your walls.

Or mount some vertical rails every ~12" or so. You could get aluminum bar stock or some UHMW cut in to ~3/4" strips. This will give it something to glide on. You could mount some of those on the floor, too, to save your flooring from the sliding.

u/Jarvicious · 2 pointsr/StLouis

Ahhh I didn't think about shipping. I've been thinking about building a cross cut sled and some other random bits now that my garage isn't just a storage locker. If you don't find anything I might be willing to split a purchase with you.

After a quick look, this doesn't seem like too bad a deal. .375" sheet at 12x24" for $20. God bless Amazon Prime. I really wanted aluminum runners but I use most of my tools so infrequently I just can't justify spending $20 EACH on some snazzy Rocklers and give or take kerf, a sheet this size would yield ~14-15 2' guides.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ILLNZC/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

u/phlidwsn · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

You might try a thicker PEI sheet in place of glass. I'm using a 1/16" aka 1.54mm thick sheet clipped directly to my bed. Its thick enough that it'll last forever without tearing, and there's no adhesive to wear out.

u/mlepisto · 1 pointr/boating

I think for it to look nice you'd have to create your own or have someone do it for you out of fiberglass and gel coat it. If you're already using plywood then it probably won't look great no matter what. Consider using a composite instead? You can get sheets of HPDE fairly cheap

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ILLNZC/

u/SilentRadar · 1 pointr/canadaguns

Lots of options on Amazon.com. $3.59 for the sheet and $3.43 shipping edit Might have to double check shipping to Canada, but price per sheet is cheap.

u/siamonsez · 1 pointr/pcmods

Some pvc with wall flanges on either side to make an I shape would let you get just enough height to relieve some of the stress on the bottom plastic bit without reducing the stability of the case.

Plus, if it's a white case, it's gonna blend in pretty well.

Edit: I assume it's in the curved bit of the plastic bottom part that is breaking?

An alternative to feet would be to use some stiff sheet material, maybe something like [this] (http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B006FLZ03A) (amazon).

Cut it to fit between the the bottom of the case and the plastic feet of the case and glue it in place. That way, the weight of the case is going more through this piece than the curved part of those plastic feet.

u/NegroMedic · 1 pointr/CarAV
u/Elitreehouse · 1 pointr/treehouse

To account for swaying I planned on using a poorman's treehouse sliding bracket system with a uhmw spacer. I'll leave 3 to 4 inches lateral "play" to give the tree enough room to dance.

https://www.amazon.com/Molecular-Weight-Polyethylene-Standard-Tolerance/dp/B000ILJZF2?th=1&psc=1

Thanks for the rubber tire trick. I have a few old tires stashed around the property. But when you say rubber between the anchors please help me envision this, are you saying put rubber between the tree and beam so on the side to side motion the beam does not smack the tree sideways and damage the tree that way?

u/MajesticAioli · 1 pointr/gardening

We use a 6mil plastic to winterize our chicken coop, that thickness allows light in, but it isn't see through. I bet you could find a lower mil that would be more see through. Here's a 4mil 10ft x 25ft sheet, it claims to be clear: Clear Plastic Sheeting – 10‘ x 25’ 4mil, 4 Year UV Treated, Heavy Duty Multi Purpose Drop Cloth by HANDYDeals. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B61YK3L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_f1g5Cb5YHYT4V

Look for something that won't tear easily in the wind, I can attest to the durability of the 6mil, you can't even tear into it with your bare hands, a knife is required. Trash bags are between .70 and .90mil, so the 4mil might be promising.

u/FreefallJagoff · 1 pointr/SkyDiving

I haven't seen 3D printed versions, though I'm sure they exist. I've wanted to do the same, but with a different twist that conforms to my helmet better. I'd do it with just a sheet of plastic. Imagine draping spandex or some stretchy material over your camera, it would look kind of like that.

  1. Buy a sheet of ABS plastic.
  2. Cover my helmet and camera with some painters tape (to keep it from getting scuffed).
  3. Heat up the sheet of plastic with a heat gun/hair dryer.
  4. Pull it down over my camera and helmet like this but without using a vacuum former, just pulling it down to get that nice convex shape. While the plastic is hot I can push the plastic down so it lays flat over the buttons/lens area.
  5. Once it cools we now we have a sheet of rigid plastic that drapes down over the camera all the way to the camera without any concave areas. Now just cut off some sections from the plastic so the lens/buttons aren't covered.
  6. (Optional?) Maybe fill the plastic with some insulating foam to make it more rigid, need to experiment here. Also I still need to figure out how I can mount/unmount the camera with this cover on.
  7. Adhere the cover to the helmet so it doesn't shift around from the wind.
u/dekopro · 1 pointr/videography

Based out of Las Vegas.
Grab a couple of
these

Stack them on some apple boxes. I personally would build a frame out of metal so I could get a bigger camera package underneath it.