(Part 2) Best plastic sheets according to redditors

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We found 278 Reddit comments discussing the best plastic sheets. We ranked the 120 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.

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Top Reddit comments about Plastic Sheets:

u/TheFuriousGoat · 8 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Thank you!
It wasn’t that hard, here’s the materials

Plexiglass 12 x 12 Clear Acrylic Sheet - 1/8 th (.125) inch thick https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NBVKDPD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fuw3AbF00WHZA

Red Devil 1170 Plexiglass Cutting Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BZZ1D0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7uw3AbWAMMW9Y

Adhesive Vinyl Sheets - 30 Pack 12'' X 12'' Premium Permanent Self Adhesive Vinyl Sheets-Assorted Colors for Cricut,Silhouette Cameo,Craft Cutters,Printers,Letters,Decals https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077GRNT2H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Jvw3AbD0TD3RC

And of course some spray paint

  1. Measure the top of the gpu (L and W)
  2. Mark the plexiglass sheet to your measurements, and score it with the cutter until it’s about halfway down, the put it on the edge of the table, and snap it, it will break along the line
  3. Sand any rough edges
  4. Pint out the logo you want, (I did it ok normal paper, then glued it on the vinyl) then cut it out of the vinyl
  5. Put the logo made out of vinyl onto the cut acrylic ( it has adhesive)
  6. Paint the top, and bottom of the acrylic ( bottom color for the color of the logo / design
  7. Once it drys, peel off the stencils
  8. ?????
  9. Profit
  10. Repeat and sell to people with left over materials???
  11. More profit?????

    I just placed it on-top of the gpu, but you could use some cheap “mounting tape”, then it’s not going anywhere!
u/dubadub · 5 pointsr/Multicopter

Sintra is a plastic sheet product made from PVC. It's easily available in 6mm and 3mm thicknesses.

For a project of this size any wood product is going to fail quickly. Plastics and composite/graphite are the way to go.

u/Wokoran · 3 pointsr/DIY

I think an acrylic panel (that is thick enough supported) would work well. You can cut it with a saw and could purchase it clear or white which I'm sure would match your refrigerator. Check Amazon. It can be scratched though so I might go with white instead of clear.

u/Elbarfo · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

You'll want to get cooling on the fins for the hot end, for sure. That head (your appears to be a reprint) originally came with a little squirrel cage fan that sucked. This is a 40mm fan holder I designed that needs no mods to make fit.

They have done something terrible to the bed. I'm not sure what the thinking is behind all that but it all needs to go. Perhaps you can salvage one of the bed heaters (can't tell if it's still bonded to glass), but wow that's a mangled mess.

You will want to make sure that you have a 12x12 heater, a 12x12 sheet of glass and I strongly recommend getting a 12x12 [.06in. thick PEI sheet] (https://www.amazon.com/Polyetherimide-Standard-Tolerance-PEI0113-Thickness/dp/B0013HQ7B0/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_3?keywords=pei+sheet+.06&qid=1557608605&s=gateway&sr=8-3-fkmrnull) vs. the thinner stock style as it will last forever comparitively. I use one on my Taz5 and haven't needed to think about replacing it in over 2 years now.

The Taz's are tough printers. You'll be happy once you get it set up!

u/fu_gravity · 3 pointsr/weightlifting

I'll be posting links to related items in Amazon and elsewhere so you can get an idea. By no means is this an endorsement for Amazon (peh, I wish) but just to get an idea of costs. This would be identical to the platform my coach and I made and it dampens sound very well. As mentioned, stable mats are quite dense and do not deaden the vibrations particularly well. Going with a composite "fleck" rubber flooring holds it's shape well and deadens the sound much better. A layer of cork between your base layers will further deaden the vibrations. Finally, making sure you have a full 8'x8' platform (or larger if you can manage it) will deaden the vibrations the most.

IF you shop around you can likely build this for under $200 (provided you can use HDF/particle board for the runway). Most likely if you are in a hurry it might cost about $50 more.

  • 5 Sheets of plywood. 4 of them can be "builder grade", i.e. cheaper and 3/4" thick. Top layer will need to be as thick as the rubber sheeting you select and should be of a better quality to avoid splinters and knots. In dry climates High density particleboard actually makes a great platform because it is cheap, has a dry, paper-like texture which is great for grip, but it can swell in humid climates.

  • Enough cork sheeting to sandwich a single layer on two 4'x8' sheets of plywood. amazon link for cork sheeting

  • 1 roll (for an 8x8 or 8(w)x10(l) platform of fleck composite gym flooring. amazon link for gym flooring

  • Flooring adhesive, 8 flat-head wood screws with washers, and 6 3/4" "taper head" wood screws.

  1. Set two sheets of plywood lengthwise, lightly coat with flooring adhesive, and place a single layer of cork on top of it. Coat the top of the cork with flooring adhesive as well.

  2. Layer two more sheets of plywood on top of the cork, in the opposite direction as the first layer.

  3. Cut the rubber to size, using the "outside" edge for the interior so the factory cuts line up easily with your runway. Place the runway in the middle of the platform. (Note: I don't advise using flooring adhesive on the top layer if you need to replace a component it makes it much easier)

  4. Secure the runway with 3 screws at the front and back (one in each corner with another in-between, none in the middle). Secure the wells (rubber) with the flat top screws and washers in each corner.


    Extra credit - lay your platform down on cheap rubber drainage mats to further ease vibrations, and to also have a place where plates can fall to the floor without damage to either plate or floor. link for drainage matting
u/MoronicusTotalis · 2 pointsr/DataHoarder

Buy some ABS sheets, cut, glue & assemble your own custom design.

https://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-Textured-Plastic-Sheet/dp/B00AKJA6SM

u/BeachGlassBlazer · 2 pointsr/organization

You can order it in size and thickness

u/ToxYixs · 2 pointsr/battlestations

IMO this is the easiest way I know to cable manage. Buy THESE you can find them at walmart for like 2-4 bucks for a Large sheet, cut them to size and place them upright on back of desk to cover the wires. Its a super common thing to do, just get the same color one as your desk.

u/CharlemagneIII · 2 pointsr/airsoft

You can find it at hardware stores but I actually just amazon primed it, cost me like 5$
Edit: here’s the link, with this thickness it’s too thick to cut with regular scissor.
Lexan Sheet - Polycarbonate - .093" - 3/32" Thick, Clear, 12" x 12" Nominal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0759V14Q7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TUlIDbVF86X39

u/Jarvicious · 2 pointsr/StLouis

Ahhh I didn't think about shipping. I've been thinking about building a cross cut sled and some other random bits now that my garage isn't just a storage locker. If you don't find anything I might be willing to split a purchase with you.

After a quick look, this doesn't seem like too bad a deal. .375" sheet at 12x24" for $20. God bless Amazon Prime. I really wanted aluminum runners but I use most of my tools so infrequently I just can't justify spending $20 EACH on some snazzy Rocklers and give or take kerf, a sheet this size would yield ~14-15 2' guides.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ILLNZC/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

u/DesolationRobot · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Two options: laminate some thin panels to the walls. Either FRP or hardboard. FRP will reist scuffs better, but both will save your walls.

Or mount some vertical rails every ~12" or so. You could get aluminum bar stock or some UHMW cut in to ~3/4" strips. This will give it something to glide on. You could mount some of those on the floor, too, to save your flooring from the sliding.

u/Glimmering_Lights · 1 pointr/MousepadReview

Something like this, perhaps? https://www.amazon.com/PTFE-Virgin-Teflon-Sheet-031/dp/B074KNKCGG

I'm not sure how you'd secure it to your desk or whether the glide will last for a long time.

u/dekopro · 1 pointr/videography

Based out of Las Vegas.
Grab a couple of
these

Stack them on some apple boxes. I personally would build a frame out of metal so I could get a bigger camera package underneath it.

u/NegroMedic · 1 pointr/CarAV
u/MajesticAioli · 1 pointr/gardening

We use a 6mil plastic to winterize our chicken coop, that thickness allows light in, but it isn't see through. I bet you could find a lower mil that would be more see through. Here's a 4mil 10ft x 25ft sheet, it claims to be clear: Clear Plastic Sheeting – 10‘ x 25’ 4mil, 4 Year UV Treated, Heavy Duty Multi Purpose Drop Cloth by HANDYDeals. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B61YK3L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_f1g5Cb5YHYT4V

Look for something that won't tear easily in the wind, I can attest to the durability of the 6mil, you can't even tear into it with your bare hands, a knife is required. Trash bags are between .70 and .90mil, so the 4mil might be promising.

u/FreefallJagoff · 1 pointr/SkyDiving

I haven't seen 3D printed versions, though I'm sure they exist. I've wanted to do the same, but with a different twist that conforms to my helmet better. I'd do it with just a sheet of plastic. Imagine draping spandex or some stretchy material over your camera, it would look kind of like that.

  1. Buy a sheet of ABS plastic.
  2. Cover my helmet and camera with some painters tape (to keep it from getting scuffed).
  3. Heat up the sheet of plastic with a heat gun/hair dryer.
  4. Pull it down over my camera and helmet like this but without using a vacuum former, just pulling it down to get that nice convex shape. While the plastic is hot I can push the plastic down so it lays flat over the buttons/lens area.
  5. Once it cools we now we have a sheet of rigid plastic that drapes down over the camera all the way to the camera without any concave areas. Now just cut off some sections from the plastic so the lens/buttons aren't covered.
  6. (Optional?) Maybe fill the plastic with some insulating foam to make it more rigid, need to experiment here. Also I still need to figure out how I can mount/unmount the camera with this cover on.
  7. Adhere the cover to the helmet so it doesn't shift around from the wind.
u/Elitreehouse · 1 pointr/treehouse

I need to check the table again but I want thinking a 4x6 would be stronger than a 2x8.
If that is not the case I will go with a single 2x8.

To account for swaying I planned on using a poorman's treehouse sliding bracket system with a uhmw spacer. I'll leave 3 to 4 inches lateral "play" to give the tree enough room to dance.

https://www.amazon.com/Molecular-Weight-Polyethylene-Standard-Tolerance/dp/B000ILJZF2?th=1&psc=1

u/mcarterphoto · 1 pointr/analog

> Should I just go ahead and buy a Patterson instead?

If a plastic reel will fit your tank, look into Omega and Samigon reels - the "ears" where you load the film are like great big landing pads - night and day difference from my previous plastic reels (though those weren't patterson). If you want a steel reel for 35mm, nothing, NOTHING nothing beats a Hewes reel - the way the film attaches is genius.

>what do people recommend for a light diffuser

White acrylic sheet. Shop around online and eBay, you can find it cut to all sorts of sizes, very affordable.

u/ewiggle · 1 pointr/MouseReview

Alright, so the going strategy in these cases is to put a normal sized hard pad ON TOP of your existing cloth pad like this (that black part is my glorious xxl pad, and the shiny part is my hard pad). So maybe consider that since it's kind of hard to find a hard mousepad, sold as a mousepad, in that size.

And if you go that route, just any 'ol hard pad from a popular manufacturer will do. Logitech, corsair, ... lots of companies make them.

But if you insist on an ultra-wide hard pad, you might use one of these options below (or something similar) as your mousepad and either deal with the length not being exactly as you wanted (36x11) or by getting one of the HDPE pads and cutting it down to the size you want:

  • pvc mat
  • leather pad
  • HDPE sheet (smooth)
  • HDPE sheet (textured)

    Note: a lot of times the edges on the HDPE sheets are sharp enough to annoy if you lay your arm on it for a long time so you'll have to sand those down or whatever if you care about that. I can use my HDPE pad without issue though, the edges don't bother me enough to fix them lol.
u/siamonsez · 1 pointr/pcmods

Some pvc with wall flanges on either side to make an I shape would let you get just enough height to relieve some of the stress on the bottom plastic bit without reducing the stability of the case.

Plus, if it's a white case, it's gonna blend in pretty well.

Edit: I assume it's in the curved bit of the plastic bottom part that is breaking?

An alternative to feet would be to use some stiff sheet material, maybe something like [this] (http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B006FLZ03A) (amazon).

Cut it to fit between the the bottom of the case and the plastic feet of the case and glue it in place. That way, the weight of the case is going more through this piece than the curved part of those plastic feet.

u/phlidwsn · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

If you do a thin film PEI like most, you'll want to stick it to glass.

If you get a thicker sheet, I use 1/16" and just have it binder-clipped to the bed. Give it five extra minutes to warm up the bed and PEI, and it works great.

u/mlepisto · 1 pointr/boating

I think for it to look nice you'd have to create your own or have someone do it for you out of fiberglass and gel coat it. If you're already using plywood then it probably won't look great no matter what. Consider using a composite instead? You can get sheets of HPDE fairly cheap

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ILLNZC/