Best plumbing supplies according to redditors
We found 1,193 Reddit comments discussing the best plumbing supplies. We ranked the 613 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
1. 008 Buna-N O-Ring, 50A Durometer, Round, Black, 3/16" ID, 5/16" OD, 1/16" Width (Pack of 125)
Made of Buna-nitrile (also called Buna-N) for use with a variety of fluids from petroleum to aliphatic hydrocarbonsDurometer (hardness) of 50A for resistance to penetrationRound cross-section to provide a seal between cylindrical overlapping surfacesFor use across a wide temperature range from -30 d...
2. 008 Buna-N O-Ring, 70A Durometer, Black, 3/16" ID, 5/16" OD, 1/16" Width (Pack of 100)
Made of Buna-nitrile (also called Buna-N) for use with a variety of fluids and hydrocarbonsCan be used across a wide temperature range from -30 degrees F (-34 degrees C) to 250 degrees F (121 degrees C)Round in cross-section to provide a seal between cylindrical overlapping surfacesDurometer (hardne...
3. HomeBrewStuff 1/2" Stainless Steel Valve Weldless Bulkhead for Home Brew Kettle
1/2" Weldless bulkhead fitting fits 7/8" kettle hole.Stainless steel full port ball valve1/2" Stainless hose barbHigh temp silicone sealsInstallation instructions
4. ATP Vinyl-Flex PVC Food Grade Plastic Tubing, Clear, 3/16" ID x 5/16" OD, 100 feet Length
Vinyl-flex PVC NSF 61 is suitable for general, low-pressure, industrial applications for the conveyance of liquids and semi solidsMade from a PVC compound that complies with FDA regulationsTubing provides good chemical resistanceIt is lightweight, flexible and economically pricedNSF 61 compliant for...
5. Regular 5/16" Auto Siphon with 8 feet of Tubing, clear, 1 piece
The auto siphon is one of the best purchases you can make as a new home brewerNever again will you have to start a siphon the old Fashioned wayManufactured in Canada
6. White Silicone Rubber Tubing, Food Grade
Flexible tubing for air, water, food, and beverageSilicone rubber for resistance to high temperatures, oils, detergents, ozone, and salt waterTranslucent for visual inspection of fluidsOperating temperature range of -150 to +500 degrees FMeets NSF-51 standards for food equipment material
7. White SiliconeTubing, 3/8"ID, 1/2"OD, 1/16" Wall, 10' Length
Flexible tubing for air, water, food, and beverageSilicone rubber for resistance to high temperatures, oils, detergents, ozone, and salt waterTranslucent for visual inspection of fluidsOperating temperature range of -150 to +500 degrees FMeets NSF-51 standards for food equipment material
8. 2pcs 3x4mm CNC Motor Jaw Shaft Coupler 3mm To 4mm Flexible Coupling OD 19x25mm (3x4mm)
Material: Aluminum alloy; Size: 25x19mm( L*D)Feature: Set screws (Coiling Clamping); Main Color: Silver toneThe shaft couplers are widely applied to small CNC machines encoding and 3D printers Z shaft coupling, simplifies the debugging difficulty.
9. Control Devices CR Series Brass Pressure Relief Valve, 0-100 psi Adjustable Pressure Range, 1/4" Male NPT
Relief pressure adjustable from 0 to 100 psi1/4" male NPT threaded inlet connectionBrass construction and stainless steel spring for corrosion resistanceSilicon O-ring provides leak-proof seal to within 10 percent of set pressureMicrometer-style nylon knob for pressure relief adjustment
11. DIGITEN DC 12V 1/4" Inlet Feed Water Solenoid Valve Quick Connect N/C normally Closed
DC 12V 1/4" Quick connect Solenoid valve.Turn on water when system start;and cut off water when system stop.Working pressure:0.02-0.8Mpa. Its working temperature:32-158℉ (0-70℃).Rated power:4.8W.It will become hot because there are so many coils inside. It’s normal and safe phenomenon. The hig...
12. bayite 12V DC Fresh Water Pump with 2 Hose Clamps 12 Volt Diaphragm Pump Self Priming Sprayer Pump with Pressure Switch 4.5 L/Min 1.2 GPM 80 PSI Adjustable for RV Camper Marine Boat Lawn
The patented design delivers smooth & consistent flow at all ranges of operation, while drawing low currentInlet and Outlet: 3/8-inch hose barb ports. Vertical Suction Lift: 6.6ft (2m). Adjustable CUT-OFF Pressure: Default 80-85PSI, MAX 100 PSI(5.5Bar). It doesn't mean 4.5L/min jet at 100PSI. Comes ...
13. General Hydroponics HGC728040 Dual Diaphragm Air Pump 320 GPH 4 Outlet
General Hydroponics Dual Diaphragm air pump is the only air pump in the world that is manufactured exclusively for use with hydroponics systemsThis high output pump (320 mph/24,800 cc/minute capacities) has four adjustable 1/4" outputsIn addition, growers who use our Dual Diaphragm air pump can coun...
14. FastRack Food Grade Vinyl Tubing - 10 feet 5/16 ID - 7/16 OD, Clear
Country Of Origin: United StatesModel Number: 2Y-U7VC-TC1UItem Package Dimension: 11.0" L x 8.0" W x 1.2" HItem Package Weight: 1.0 lb
15. Sterling Seal ORBN002x1000 Number-002 Standard O-Ring, Buna Nitrile Rubber, 70 Durometer Hardness, 3/64" ID, 9/64" OD (Pack of 1000)
For use across a wide temperature range from -30 degrees F to 250 degrees F, Good/Excellent resistance to many petroleum oils/greases, hydraulic fluids, alcohol, mineral oil and greaseOil resistant applications of all types. Low temperature military uses. Off-road equipment. Automotive, marine, airc...
16. Univen High Temp Food Grade Clear Silicone Tubing 9mm ID X 13mm OD Per Foot
Food-Grade Silicone Tubing9mm Inner Diameter and 13mm Outer DiameterTypically Used In Coffeemakers and Other EquipmentPrice is Per Foot, Sold as One Length - Example: Order 3 and Receive One 3-ft. PieceHigh Temperature
18. 3/4" Brass Electric Solenoid Valve 110V AC Normally Closed Water, air, Diesel.
Constructed of industrial grade brass, this valve is corrosion resistant, more conducive for welding, optimal for higher temperature projects, and can be used with gasoline, diesel fuel, kerosene oil, natural gas, air etc. Due to the chemical composition of brass, this valve should NOT be used with ...
19. Eaton Weatherhead 60X4 Compression Sleeve, CA360 Brass, 1/4" Tube OD, 0.3400" Sleeve OD
Sleeve for a tube compression fittingConnects to 1/4" copper, brass, aluminum, or plastic tubingBrass for corrosion resistance, ductility at high temperatures, and low magnetic permeabilityOperating temperature range of -65 to +250 degrees FNo flaring tool required for assembly
20. Kerick Valve MA052 PVC Mini Float Valve, Tank Mount, Adjustable Arm, 1.5 gpm at 60 psi, 1/2" NPT Male
Estimated rate of flow up to 1.5 gpm at 60 psiPVC for corrosion resistanceTank mount with extended threads on inlet side of valve for mounting through tank wallNote: MA052 has a 1/2 NPT pipe thread. This is extremely common in the plumbing world. The thread measures about 3/4 of an inch in diamete...
You can replace your tubing with silicone tubing. I use it in home brewing - it is inert even at high temperatures.
Actually, you're absurdly wrong. About 1000% wrong (with prime).
Don't buy a kit! They sell you all kinds of shit you won't use when there are better options for similar money.
Get a brewing bucket as if you don't have a bottler then this will make your life so much better.
Get 2 carboys (glass is best but better bottles will work too). Check Craigslist for these...you can get some awesome deals.
Get 1 Refractomoeter instead of a hydrometer because they use WAY less of your must to calculate and they aren't mega fragile like hydrometers are.
You will want an auto siphon
You will want a carboy brush that fits on a cordless drill because cleaning a carboy without one fucking sucks (and for 18 bucks this is a no brainer).
You will need sanitizer. I personally like Iodophor because it's super cheap, it doesn't really foam up and it lasts forever. I bought one of THESE bottles like 2 years ago and it is about half full even though I brew between 50-100 gallons a year.
I always advocate people start with beer bottles rather than wine bottles. The reason for this has less to do with the bottles and more to do with equipment. The Ferrari Bottle Capper is 14 dollars while a good floor corker for wine bottles will set you back 60 bucks. In addition, it's cheaper to bottle in 20 ounce beer bottles with caps rather than in wine bottles with good corks. Use of a double lever corker for wine bottles should be considered a war crime...seriously...unless you're a masochist who loves dumping wine everywhere and having to clean it afterwards...then just avoid them...they are absolutely awful.
If you go the wine bottle route then NEVER use agglomerated or colmated corks (the ones made from tiny pieces of cork glued together) as they fall apart and will leave chunks in your bottles. In addition they don't age well, so you are much more likely to lose your brew to spoilage. I like synthetic Nomacorc but you can also buy very good quality solid natural corks as well.
Good oxygen absorbing bottle caps on the other hand are mega cheap. Again...this isn't about one being better than the other, so you can use either one.
For wine bottles, I REALLY like the ones with screw tops because they make it nice and easy to cap your bottles once opened. But for all of your bottles buy these locally...shipping will double or triple the cost of these vs buying locally. I get them for 15 bucks a case a few miles from my house...they're almost 30 a case on Amazon or close to that from Midwest or from Ohio (shipping is like 11-15 dollars a case.)
For beer bottles...I prefer clear, but they'll be tough to find locally so I often end up with brown ones. Again...buy these locally not online due to shipping costs. Your local brewing supply stores buy these pallets at a time so even Amazon can't compete with the lack of shipping costs.
For my own recommendation I would say do an extract beer can kit. You'll get about 40 bottles of beer out of it.
Almost everything below you can get at your local homebrew shop. In fact, many of these items might be part of a "beer starter kit" etc. I do recommend getting the 5 gallon carboy instead of a kit with pails. You'll thank me later. pails can get messy.
Total $128 by my guestimates, but you do get 2 cases of beer out of it and $113 worth of brew equipment. Hell, in Ontario the two cases of beer can easily be more expensive than $128 lol... Not cheap, but everything here you will use over and over and over again (except of course the sugar and the brew kit)
The Coopers Can Kit comes with instructions to make your beer, a hopped extract and yeast.
After you make your beer it'll be a few weeks before the fermentation is done (which you'll know by hydrometer readings)
In that time you can start getting your stuff together for bottling and carbonating them.
You'll also need (for bottling) 48 empty clean bottles (cleaned and then sanitized with star-san solution) NON TWIST OFF TYPE
A handheld Beer capper
Bottle caps (box)
I gotta run, but this was fun to type out. If you need any help, glad to help ya.
It's actually super easy. Bought everything off amazon.
I'll make a full guide later
I got this keyboard for $50 after rebate, I really enjoy it (my first mechanical). Whenever I go to my college library, I always contemplate bringing the keyboard in to type on the computers because their rubber domed keys feel like I'm trying to type on a keyboard made of Play-Doh. Unresponsive, slow, and generally unpleasant to use.
A word of advice for someone who is thinking about getting a mechanical keyboard, even if the switches don't make much sound, the keys bottoming out / rebounding tend to be quite loud. This is why I invested in some rubber o-rings which limited the sound the keyboard makes when bottoming out. The ones from amazon are similar to the ones that WASDkeyboards sells for $18 (I assume its comparable to the 50A-R). They do influence the feel of the keyboard, but I think the noise reduction is worth it.
Overall, if you've been looking for a good keyboard to get for a new gaming computer, or if you're planning on upgrading to a mechanical keyboard, I would definitely suggest this (even though it is $10 more than what I paid for it).
Edit: If you are new to mechanical keyboards, keep in mind that they are generally taller than dome keyboards (base is roughly 3/4 inch tall). Also, this keyboard isn't fully back-lit if you were looking for a keyboard which is, I advise you look elsewhere.
I'm assuming you already have a kettle, burner, brew paddle, and thermometer. Also assuming you have good water. You will have to buy crushed grain until you get your own grain mill. The ball valve can be upgraded with a cam lock quick disconnect and tube. I like to mash on my kitchen counter, so I have to move the kettle outside for the boil and a platform dolly is a big help with that.
The best option is to spend some money on a decent quality USB supply.(Note, the official supply is crappy!) I'd suggest trying it out with another USB supply if you have one - I find the Samsung ones are pretty good.
You probably don't need 3A unless you're attaching a number of high power peripherals to the Pi.
If this doesn't resolve your issue, then you could buy a audio ground loop isolator, that stops the leaky current from making it to the sound system. Something like this should do the trick: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000NVWB9O
Story time... I've had this Filco with blues for awhile and never done anything to it. A few months ago I picked up a CODE with clears and my poor Filco sat abandoned and unloved. Recently, Massdrop did a group buy for Ducky PBT caps and I decided it was time to breathe some new life back into my Filco. I wanted to bring it back to work so I also took the opportunity to install some o-ring dampeners (Amazon, non-referral).
I love the keycaps, they feel great -- I'm a big fan of the texture. The o-rings make a big difference for me because I always bottom out. The one's I ordered from Amazon are a hybrid of the two offered by WASD because I wanted a harder ring with less travel reduction. If you're wishing your blues were a little quieter these are great o-rings.
IMO the best thing to do is just replace them periodically. You can buy the line in bulk and it should only cost a dollar or so per line to replace.
If you do want to clean the existing lines you don't really need any equipment. Just put some cleaning solution in an empty keg, pressurize, and run it through.
Below is a copy paste of a comment I made the other day on the cause of this problem.
the shaft of the z motor is 3mm and the threaded rod is 4mm the coupler they use is 4mm on both sides so the z motor shaft is pushed to the side inside the coupler so the center axis of the motor is off .5mm from the center axis of the threaded rod. Imagine putting a drill bit in a drill off-center of the chuck, the bit would wobble around in a circle. The is what the threaded rod does and pushes on the gantry every revolution. You should have horizontal stripes in the sides of your prints that coincide with the threads of the threaded rod. Since this is my first printer, I thought those were layer lines. upon closer inspection I realized the layers are much thinner and they were shifting back and fourth. I replace the coupler with one of these and it fixed the issue. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018VE5YAW What you need to look for in a coupler is that it is 3mm on one side and 4mm on the other. Now that I have fixed that , I can now see the vertical lines in my prints that were masked by the horizontal lines. It is probably due to the smooth side of the y belt running on the plastic toothed pulleys.
Alternatively, you can get a pack of 125 for $8.25 on Amazon.
I have o-rings on my Poker II with blues. I'd estimate that the sound has been cut by 50%. The "thunk" noise when you bottom out is greatly decreased but the "click" sound from the switch itself is audible.
I use these from Amazon since they're half the price of what WASD charges.
If you want a real carrying case, there was a group buy over on GeekHack for a 60% soft case. The organizer of the group buy owns TechKeys.us (where I got my Poker II) and said that he should have a few spare cases after the group buy is over.
What he has is vinyl tubing. High Temp Silicone tubing is what he needs.
If you're going to try this make sure to use food grade silicon tubing like this one: http://www.amazon.com/High-Temp-Grade-Silicone-Tubing/dp/B00FXAA0BQ
3x4mm coupler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018VE5YAW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JdakDb3YWS9Z6
Note to self, get Amazon affiliate link.
Get the O-rings from Amazon http://amzn.com/B0051XWXCE
Much cheaper then WASD.
+some hoses / tubes / enclosure for your electronics and a few hours of your time.
you should be able to construct a nice system for 50-100 dollar
2pcs 3x4mm CNC Motor Jaw Shaft Coupler 3mm To 4mm Flexible Coupling OD 19x25mm (3x4mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018VE5YAW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_53-RCbJ1NFFRV
Takes out z-wobble.
Get these, $2.08 for a pack of 100. They work great on my wife's DS4:
$8.25 at Amazon.
Ok, I just finished this project today! Get the led fairy lights that use AA batteries (they last longer and are brighter) https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B017N85S6M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 and some quantity of 5/16" inner diameter tubing (for aquariums, etc.) https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E6BCXQ8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
. Thread lights through tubing (I used picture hanging wire as the "guide" wire), and go a little past the connection to the battery pack. I bought some aquarium tube connectors to seal the ends https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LDFTQI2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 , and then wove it between the spokes and attached with small zip ties. Battery packs affixed to spokes with velcro cable ties, for easy on/off for battery change. With the lights coming in 5 packs on Amazon, I did all 3 wheels (yes, trike) and the rest of the frame for under $30. That will buy you 1 1/2 Wheel Brightz.
I've used JSpacers in some retooled Cherry Blues since Nov. 2017 having just pulled them out to try Clears and True springs in the retooled housings (awesome if you like Jailhouse BTW if a little heavy). I had no change in feel or obvious degradation in that time. At first with a very hard press (WASD mostly) they would get pinched and start to drag or click but that stopped happening.
I also have been using 002 buna nitrile o-rings in Gateron stems since March 2017 and after a few broke and were replaced I've had no issues.
You can also use these o-rings by putting them on each leg instead of the stem. Feels pretty much the same.
I've made some slight modifications to this, mostly to make it easier to follow. I've also included steps that should be quite obvious to someone who's done any homebrewing before, but I wish someone had told me when I first started.
I'd link to the original, for the sake of attribution, but the user who posted this deleted their account not long after I wrote everything down.
This will produce a sweet fruit-mead (or melomel). WARNING this will be far more alcoholic than it tastes, and should not be consumed if you've recently taken antibiotics, or suffered gastric distress, as the yeast culture will still be alive, and will happily colonize your intestines if your gut microbiome is too fucked up.
Equipment: Most of this stuff will be a good deal cheaper at your local homebrew store, but I've included amazon links (also to the yeast).
At least 2 (3 is better, for reasons we'll get to) 1-gallon jugs (I don't recommend scaling this up), glass preferred. Add an extra jug for each additional batch. This one includes a drilled stopper and airlock
Drilled stoppers (or carboy bungs) and airlocks, non-drilled rubber stoppers.
An autosiphon and food-safe tubing.
Food-safe sanitizing solution (I recommend StarSan).
An electric kettle with temperature selector is useful, but not needed.
If you want to bottle it rather than just keeping a jug in your fridge:
Empty beer or wine bottles (just save your empties), capping or corking equipment, caps or corks, and a bottling wand.
2.5 lbs (1130g) honey, clover recommended.
A cup (approximately 250ml) or so of fruit (I recommend blackberries, and I strongly recommend against cherries, other recipes have worked for me, but this yields a very medical flavor with cherries).
1 packet Lalvin EC-1118 yeast (a champagne yeast notable for its hardiness, its ability to out-compete other microorganisms, and its high alcohol tolerance).
Optional: potassium sorbate (to reduce yeast activity when our ferment is done), pectic enzyme (aka pectinase - for aesthetic purposes). Both are also available in bulk.
Mix sanitizing solution with clean water at specified proportions in one of your jugs, filling the jug most of the way. Stopper it, shake it. Remove stopper, set it down wet-side-up (to keep it sterile), pour the fluid to another jug. There will be foam left behind, this is fine, don't bother to rinse it or anything. At low concentrations this stuff is totally fine to drink, and won't ruin your fermentation or flavor.
Add honey to jug, all of it.
If you have a kettle, and your jug is glass, heat water to around 160F (71 Celsius), pour a volume into your jug roughly equal to the amount of honey present. Fix sterile stopper to jug. Shake until honey and water are thoroughly combined. The heat will make it FAR easier to dissolve the honey. Set aside for an hour or so while it cools. Add clean water 'til mostly full, leaving some room for fruit and headspace.
If you're missing a kettle, or using a plastic jug, this is gonna be a little harder. Fill most of the way with clean water (I recommend using a filter) leaving some room for fruit and headspace. Fix sterile stopper, shake 'til honey and water are thoroughly combined. This will take a while, and you will need to shake VERY vigorously.
At this point, you should have a jug mostly-full of combined honey and water. To this, add fruit (inspecting thoroughly for mold, don't want to add that). Then dump in a single packet of the Lalvin EC-1118 yeast, don't bother rehydrating it first or anything, it'll be fine going straight in. Add pectic enzyme if you have it (this does nothing to the flavor, it just makes the end product less cloudy). Stopper it up, shake it again. This jug now contains your "must" (pre-ferment mead).
Pour some sterilizing fluid in a bowl, put a carboy bung/drilled stopper in the bowl, with an airlock. Ensure full immersion. Let sit for a minute. Replace stopper with your bung/drilled stopper, affix airlock. Fill airlock with clean water, sanitizing fluid, or vodka. Rinse the stopper, fix it to your jug of sanitizing fluid.
Place must-jug in a dark place, I recommend a cabinet or closet.
Retrieve jug, give it a little jostle. Nothing so vigorous as to get your mead into the airlock, but enough to upset it. This is to release CO2 buildup, and to keep any part of the fruit from drying out. The foaming from the CO2 release may be very vigorous. Do this over a towel for your first batch. If the foam gets into your airlock, clean your airlock and reaffix it. Perform this jostling procedure at least once per day, more is better.
Final jostling, I recommend doing this in the morning.
let it sit, we want the sediment to settle.
Day 10: Time to get it off the sediment
Shake sterilizing fluid jug. Affix tubing to siphon. Put the siphon in the sterilizing fluid, shake the jug a little just to get the whole siphon wet. Siphon fluid into either a third container or a large bowl. This is all to sterilize both the inside and outside of your siphoning system.
Remove siphon from jug. Give it a couple pumps to empty it of any remaining fluid. Place siphon in your mead jug, leaving the end of the tubing in sterilizing fluid while you do this.
Take the jug that you just siphoned the sterilizing fluid from. Dump what fluid remains in it. Place the end of the tubing in this jug, then siphon the mead into it. Make no attempt to get the last bit of mead into your fresh container, it's mostly dead yeast and decomposing fruit.
Add potassium sorbate if you have it, stopper the jug, place it in your fridge.
Clean the jug you started in. Clean your siphon and tubing.
Let it sit
Day 12 or later: time to transfer again, or bottle it.
If you no longer have a jug full of sterilizing fluid, make one.
Repeat the earlier steps to sterilize the siphoning system, with a bottling wand attached to the end of the tubing if you want to bottle.
Sterilize your bottles or a clean jug, either with fluid or heat.
Siphon mead either into your bottles or jug. Stopper/cap/cork when done.
Put your jug/bottles in the fridge.
The yeast culture is still alive, and will continue to ferment. The fridge, and optional potassium sorbate, will merely slow this down. I recommend drinking any bottles within two months, to avoid a risk of bursting bottles. The mead should already be tasty at this point, but usually tastes much better after a couple more weeks.
EDIT: Fixed the formatting up a bit.
Try these O-rings.
Edit: The size 008 of these is a bit softer.
For $2, I used these on my browns. Probably took about 20 minutes to put them on. Definitely takes the edge off the noises from bottoming out.
Some that I ordered off Amazon.
There are many more too. No way you should ever have to pay $25 for fucking o-rings.
MX reds, blues, browns use the same spring. The reds should feel slightly lighter because of no literal tactile bump on the stems.
Oh, the o-rings I've tried are the cheap 70 durometer ones off amazon:
I believe using softer ones would make the reds feel even mushier.
TBH I prefer browns so much that I
haven't given the o-ring'd reds a proper try. I might try them later with 55g springs from originative.
Maybe get yourself some o-rings in the mean time. I put these on not to long after I got a blue switch keyboard. You might notice the reduced key travel at first, but you forget soon. I used these cause cheap: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FMWLR8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Britfag. Would this do the monkey?
Hola! I set all this up last year so it’s a bit rusty!
This is a shopping list for an Xbox One mixer setup similar to mine and you may need some help filling in a few gaps and the wiring!
So the idea is to build a setup to be able to use an awesome mic to talk to the stream as well as party chat ‘at the same time’ (which I prefer over using a headset) but to also be able to hear game/chat/PC audio though a single pair of headphones and control their volume levels in one place with ease.
I don't need sound going out to my PC as the Cap card is getting that from the Console via HDMI.
Streaming Xbox to PC then the WORLD!
Xbox – hdmi into a cap card in the PC Avermedia live gamer hd
This grabs the game audio and that’s that bit done, stream using OBS and boom!
Here's is my shopping list for party chat:
Headset Buddy (Real name, I didn’t make that up!)
Xbox Chat Thing:
Cable from Buddy to Mixer:
Cable from Mixer to Buddy!
Astro Mixamp (I use)
Earforce DSS (an option!)
Ground Loop things:
Although I have used these ones because I didn’t see the ones above!
Mic wise any XLR mic is fine!
Here is a link to a image i found that kinda helps piece it all together! http://imgur.com/UYaQQUZ
Here is a quick vid of my setup, happy to help if i can! http://www.twitch.tv/drunkiemunkie/v/26306849
Heres is my latest Xbox One vid with party chat but it picks up the Public Lobby if they speak!
I had a similar issue to you a while back with noise coming through my amplified outputs:
I have managed to essentially solve the problem through the purchase of both ground loop isolators (any cheap ish one will do the trick), and a cheap mains conditioner.
this should up your game a bit: https://www.amazon.com/White-SiliconeTubing-ID-Wall-Length/dp/B003TJ9YQU/ref=sr_1_13?s=industrial&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467824434&amp;sr=1-13
I can only see flair in comments as I am on mobile. I was going to say you can pickup a new whip from vapexhal. I found this one on amazon that may also be worth checking out.
Mash tun cooler (this is probably cheaper at your local hardware store or wal mart) Also, this isn't the only cooler that works. Pretty much any plastic cooler works. But you'll need a different false bottom if you use a chest cooler, which may allow you to mash bigger batches.
Weldless Ball Valve Just take the plastic valve off the cooler and screw this one on. Will work on most any cooler you choose.
False bottom Put this at the bottom, connecting the silicon hose to the ball valve and the top of the false bottom.
3/8" barb You'll need to screw this onto the ball valve on the inside of the mash tun to connect the silicon hose to.
Honestly, if you've already got a kettle that can boil 6 gallons, you're good to go there, and just add this to the mix. Otherwise, pick up a Stainless Steel Brew Kettle.
This whole setup comes in just under $200 but you'll need some hoses and some hose clamps as well. But I'm sure that if you shop around (even on amazon) you might find better deals than I linked. But that's the gist of it. And there's no need to stick with the specific brands I linked. But just make sure to stick with stainless steel for the kettle, ball valve, and connecting accessories and food-grade plastic for the cooler. And any hoses need to be high temp hoses. Silicon is ideal.
This is by no means the "only" way to do it, but a great start down the road. You may also choose to use a pump. It has advantages and disadvantages. You can make great beer with and without one.
if you live in the U.S you can get them for $8
Otherwise I would guess they range around $20. ^^^^iwishiwasintheus
Without changing the feeling of the key stroke? You would probably need something with a low shore rating. Maybe somewhere in the 20A range. I suggest that you just use something with a relatively higher rating and is readily available like this one I listed below, you'll get used to it pretty quickly. You can also find some in the 40A range but they tend to be more expensive for some reason.
It's because of how soft they are. The reds specifically are extremely spongy. I would recommend getting WASD's Sample and testing them out. I tried them and they were way to soft. I ended up getting these ones from Amazon. They are much more dense, so they don't mask sounds as well, but they are hard enough to not have any mushy feeling if you bottom out.
Here is the link
I have these because I think paying $20 for orings is retarded. Typing is fine, maybe just less enjoyable, but still a lot nicer than my old keyboards. It really prevented the ping I used to get from bottoming out, but I feel they are a lot less useful now that I type properly and don't slam the keys.
I use these http://amazon.com/gp/product/B0051XWXCE though I know that you can get the nice coloured ones from WASD.
I put these on my QFR blues. Now, they don't bottom out and just do the clicky sound. Much more consistent sounding since every keypress sounds the same.
I assume you'll get similar results with the wasd ones. I also bought the sampler pack from wasd but couldn't decide on which ones I wanted, so I ended up with the amazon ones.
I got a set of 125 from Amazon for less than $9 shipped: 50A Durometer, Round, Black, 3/16" ID, 5/16" OD, 1/16" Width. Had no trouble with it on my KBT Pure.
These are from Amazon but as long as they are the correct size any o-ring will work (your preference on hardness may vary); dental bands also work.
Here's an infographic for Cherry MX caps:O-Ring Informational.
Looks awesome. I set up an automatic daily water-changer in mine. I let it drain thru a hose-timer connected near the bottom thru a standard garden hose for 2 hours, and I keep a float valve on a second hose-timer to fill it back up.
hose timer (1 to drain and 1 to fill): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M676JAS/
float valve: https://www.amazon.com/Kerick-Valve-MA052-Float-Adjustable/dp/B0077RAP1I
you'll need 2 hoses as well. the timer on the drain end gets clogged sometimes but thats the best i could come up with so far
This is a pretty common item. You will have an easier time finding an adjustable pressure relief valve than a set 3 psi, but even that isn't too uncommon.
I found this one on Amazon
I use this.
I had to dial it in a bit but using a decent gauge it's not too difficult. When I have it turned to 60PSI it'll hold 20 perfectly, I have a bunch of stuff noted at home from my ~5mins of testing it took to dial it in.
It has held (and allowed to build) pressure on my Flanders Red for a couple months now awesomely.
No need to go insane on pricepoint for something like this, but if you want the kind of precision you got without having to trial and error shit, then go nuts.
OP, I found out what you were looking for is called a spunding valve. It's essentially used to brew beer under a fixed pressure. I found this on amazon , how you'd fix that to a lid is beyond me tho.
Edit : Also to note: mason jars cannot hold pressure anyhow, you'd have to bottle your kombucha first and fix on the valve to the bottle cap/cork and set it fro like 30-40 psi beyond which the bottle will explode anyway.
If you do make a spunding valve I recommend this pressure relief valve. I bought a pre-built spunding valve off of homebrewing.org and the pressure relief valve it came with sucked. I saw this on brulosophy I believe and swapped it out. My current fermentation is the first I've used the new one, but so far it is MUCH better.
Diaphragm air pump. Bought two and never looked back. Very quiet and dependable, I've had one running continuously outside for a year with no noticeable reduction in air flow.
The best way I found to get started is to just get a gallon jug carboy, some starsan, some montrachet wine yeast, yeast nutrients, and 100% grape juice from your local grocery store.
The starsan is a concentrate, I put about a capful into a 2 liter bottle, fill it up with water, and keep it under my sink. It's an antiseptic rinse that should splash over everything that's going to touch the juice; airlock, bottle, your hands, the scissors you use, all that stuff. It doesn't even needed to be rinsed, just shake the bottle out and go to town.
Once you've rinsed, put the juice, yeast nutrients, and yeast in the bottle. Put some water in the airlock and put it on top. Put the bottle of juice and yeast in a dark cool spot until you can easily see a flashlight shine through it, about 2 months or so.
While it's doing it's thing collect 5 old wine bottles or get some from a brew supply store. Old liquor bottles work great, just rinse them good and then splash starsan around inside.
Buy a racking cane! This significantly simplifies the process of getting wine out of the jug without sucking up all the dead yeast at the bottom. Run starsan through it at first, filling the starsan cup with water as it gets siphoned out so that the inside is all nice and clean.
Rack that wine out of the jug and into bottles. That's it! Age for six months if you want, but I often just mix in a little fresh grape juice to sweeten it up a bit right there in my cup and go to town right away, hence my inability to age it.
The only regular cost is the juice. I like to get the frozen 100% juice on sale because I'm doing 15 gallon batches these days (because I'm going to outpace my thirst, darn it), I use about 14 of those per 5 gallon carboy and fill the rest up with spring water from the grocery store.
I also use 4 cups of 5 minute boiled raw sugar in each 5 gallon carboy of juice to boost the abv, but this is personal taste. It makes the wine taste pretty hot but it also has a solid kick to it so I don't mind. After I mix it with a bit of fresh grape juice it just tastes like a light sweet wine and I have a very good time with it.
If it's a 1 gallon batch get the mini siphon:
if its 3-6 gallons get the big one:
They all work fine.
You replaced the beer lines, but with the same internal diameter? I almost made this mistake when hooking up my keezer, using gas line for beer line (mine are both clear). If the diameter is too large it will foam. I use this:
It sounds like it’s the beverage line. I’ve been skeptical of any pvc tubing that’s not from a reputable manufacturer (like Bevlex 200 by Kuriyama) after purchasing this product which was certainly expediting oxidation—in the lines, and also in the keg. I had what I think is a similar issue to yours when I had carbonated water through the same beverage tubing I linked.
Maybe someone has some further insight. I might try purchasing some Bevlex 200 and try again, or just switch to a different non-PVC high quality tubing.
especially if you use this stuff
You're may be paying many times more sourcing "locally" if you can't wait until chinese new year is over next month. On amazon anything that is 'prime' should be warehoused stateside
Compatible diameter tube for above example
Moisture sensors are literality just wires shoved into the soil. But beware of electrolyses degrading the metal, you can used galvanized nails or even pencil lead (carbon rods) instead
You shouldn't need a pump unless using a reservoir, but just in case
12V water pumpexample--note this has a bigger diameter hose connector you may be able to just shove a 1/4" inside and glue around for seal but look around at the different search results for matching hose diameters all around or possible legit adaptors
And don't forget the 12V power adaptor capable of powerint all that. ~2+A should be fine example
This is what I ended up using and seems to be working well:
2pcs 3x4mm CNC Motor Jaw Shaft Coupler 3mm To 4mm Flexible Coupling OD 19x25mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018VE5YAW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_m4N2AbMH6HZM7
Printed couplings are prone to slipping which means the Z axis doesn't rise(or lower) the correct amount. You're better off buying a real coupling for a few dollars.
I use it as a straw on a regular basis, it's completely poitionable, and it's not hard to clean.
Angled clearomizer, just the tip, or try to fit this on somehow and leave the pv where ever.
[modification] Perfect $2 O-Rings for reduced travel/sound (100 pk)
A post from yesterday
> I also don't have any thermal paste yet
> Oh, it also looks like I need a keyboard! Any suggestions
Edit: For some more exotic mechanical keyboards keep an eye on MassDrop.com - Often have cool ones like this: https://www.massdrop.com/buy/leopold-fc660m
here you go.
Hey yeah they slightly reduce the travel distance and they keep them from bottoming out.
I used these o-rings: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FMWLR8/
If you want to give it a shot for relatively cheap you can try out the ones I picked up
I have a blues keyboard. I ended up getting these o-rings to place underneath the keys which ended up cutting the sound of the audio in like half. The loudest part of blues is when you bottom out and the key hits the bottom of the keyboard. O-rings pretty much dampen that, which makes it much quieter. You can also put O-rings on browns etc.
Some are reporting that these o-rings (15 x 1 x 17mm) fit the kayfun body:
I bought the 008 Buna-N Orings for my Russian 91% chimney top, it seems to work ok...
Going to second giving o-rings a shot, I've got mx browns and some 70A o-rings from Amazon and they definitely quiet it down a lot. They were all of $2, so it's a pretty cheap thing to try. I actually like the stiffer o-rings compared to 50A, I find the softer o-rings leave the keys feeling a bit mushy when bottoming out while gaming.
If you want to try out some "cheap" o-rings check out this. They are a harder then the stuff that you can snag from WASD, but I actually prefer them over the ones from the Sampler Kit my brother got from them.
If you type forcefully then most of the noise is from the former, You can get o-rings for your blackwidow, without needing a new keyboard! If you aren't set on getting a new keyboard try it first, razer even sells a (Overpriced) o ring kit. Or you could get this If you get the secound you will also need a keycap puller, which the razer kit includes. It will still be cheaper, esp if you have amazon prime.
The only reason you would need a new keyboard is if the click it makes before it hits the bottom is too loud, or you want something nicer then a razer.
you can get o-rings for like $2 man they're just rubber.
For example, I use these on my Ducky Gold http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FMWLR8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
The problem seems to be that the ones that really reduce travel distance also seem to be the mushiest. Seems like most people who are installing o-rings are doing it for sound not how far your keys depress :(
I've only found one real "review" on o-rings in general and the guy was using blues not reds so not sure how much it will tell me. At $20 a pop for a set it's kind of a sucky "guess and check" situation I feel like.
Edit: I think I found my answer: 70A... the number is a measure of hardness not size! Now I just have to find the right thickness in them...
Edit 2: Found them! 70A O-rings on amazon. Code 008 for the 1/16" and code 106 for the 3/32". At $2 a pop I can actually guess and check with these.
I don't know why my google-foo was sucking so much last night. I must have been tired.
Most of these folks are right- blues are pretty noisy even with O-rings, but I will say that O-rings WILL quiet it down a bit. The bottoming out sound of the keycap is quite a bit louder than the actual switch actuating. A user here referred me to some cheap o-rings here that I quite like and would recommend, but it looks like they're not available at the moment. :/
> f-Bomb Micro Bubbler Tube
I've tried both the d020-d and a chinese copy of the f-bomb. Similar to this one: http://www.dhgate.com/store/product/pinnacle-pro-glass-smoking-water-pipe-vaporblunt/184494946.html combined with a 14mm gong adapter.
The pinacle bubbler is nice and portable and does a good job of smoothing out the vapor. However I bought some
Silicone tubing to use as a whip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FOWGGW/ref=biss_dp_t_asn and I actually prefer that, less cleaning also and no need to buy a GONG.
The do20-d is way better for home use with the arizer. It has a very simple design that is very functional.
I much prefer white silicone tubing over the stock vinyl-silicone tubes in most vapes. It will get dirtier quicker, can kink, and is more expensive. But its more flexible and more inert (no break in smell+taste and you can soak it in iso to get all of the honey oil off).
This is the Amazon link for the sized used by the DaBuddha
Its a ghetto setup :D I use silicone tubing which mounts on to the easy valve and use a 18mm male at the other end. I use a bong without any percolators since I'm afraid that any back pressure on the pump of the Volcano might damage it. I'll try and post a photo of the setup
This is the tubing I use, its the same size as the set on the Plenty
Honestly, if you get a whip adapter for your bong, you can attach a silicone tube to it and just attach the other end to the QQ. I got mine insanely cheap from dhgate right here, or you can get them off of multiple other websites by searching "whip adapter". A 3/8" inner 1/2" outer diameter tube will work perfect for the whip attachment end(this is the one I bought), but might be a little too big and cover the intake hole of the QQ, I'll check when I get home and update this post.
There's also the option of using a hydrotube on top of the QQ like Matt has done in a video, but you would need a silicone attachment to make it fit right.
Edit: looks like that 3/8” inner diameter tuning is literally the PERFECT SIZE for the mouthpiece, you don't even need to hold it on there, amazing.
> I sort of envision myself as the caterpillar from Alice in Wonderland when I vape with this and it just doesn't have that reach required. I should get a longer tube.
Do what I did and get a silicone tube, it comes in a 10 ft length and you can cut it to whatever length you like. Silicone also gives less plastic taste than the default vinyl in my opinion.
A ground loop maybe. If it is, this will fix it at a very reasonable cost: https://www.amazon.co.uk/AV-Link-Ground-Loop-Isolator/dp/B000NVWB9O
I'd avoid using it until you have silicone. Vinyl isn't rated for that temp. I have the Mash and Boil, only recirculated twice. Otherwise, the beer I produce on it, with a random stir here or there in the mash is perfectly fine. Good prices on tubing can be found on Amazon.
I'm pretty sure I got 10 feet from here when I made mine, but searching amazon for "food safe silicone tubing" will give you plenty of options. My "orbiter" was functional and cheap--I had the mason jar lying around already. I've used the tubing for 2 jar-bubblers and some whips now, and it works just fine! I don't have some horrible silicone inhalation disease, at least.
This is safe up to 500 degrees. It'll work perfectly for vaping.
I believe you want to select a 5/16" inner diameter.
Upgrade. You can drill an AL kettle using dish soap as lubricant like a hot knife through butter. Step bit was like $6 at my local hardware store -- not the best ever tool but I only need one use out of it. And then this serviceable bulkhead+ball valve+barb is less than $21: link. It goes on sale for cheaper from time to time if you watch homebrewfinds.com. Even if you upgrade, it's worth doing this one and using it as an HLT or something.
If you look at the product you will see it is commonly bought with [this ball valve] (http://www.amazon.com/Weldless-Bulkhead-Stainless-Steel-valve/dp/B00420WMUU/ref=pd_bxgy_k_img_z). Just remove the old valve (it is nylon) and put this in its place. Then connect the screen inside.
Great. I was going to add a no weld ball valve to it as well.
edit: this one actually: http://www.amazon.com/Weldless-Bulkhead-Stainless-Steel-valve/dp/B00420WMUU/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&amp;colid=22WSWWQDSQRRM&amp;coliid=I193MJG09G8FHZ
I started with a 20 gallon Winware Aluminium kettle, a custom bag , ball valve, a clip on thermometer, and a couple of Aquatainers for no chill. I miss the simplicity of that setup.
Yes, cooler as a mash tun. My setup is:
Ball valve (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00420WMUU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_oFpqDb0236QSQ)
Coleman 48qt cooler
Silicon tubing for transfer
Custom Wilser Brew Bag
I did not bother with insulating the lid of the cooler. I simply place a long piece of aluminum foil down onto the mash. Works perfectly.
Having a hard time getting a perfect seal with my new 5 gallon Rubbermaid cooler. I've tried numerous o-rings and washers that always result in a drip every few seconds. This usually stops after I dump in the grain, but it's just really annoying. Using this ball valve setup
Any help with this one? Cheers!
the shank might not be long enough for a cooler. measure before you buy
I built one and it was pretty easy and not very expensive considering. Warning: The following instructions are probably dangerous. This is what I did, and it's to demonstrate how simple it was to make.
It's maybe two hundred bucks and when combined with an inkbird it makes biab a breeze.
10 gallon cooler
False Bottom - Valve adapter
Please shop around. I have no doubt you could get some of this stuff for cheaper. I was restricted in that my only form of currency was Amazon gift cards. Especially the adapter could be built / constructed for much cheaper than I paid.
Additionally, instead of the false bottom / adapter, one could simply employ a Bazooka Screen instead of a false bottom, I have just read that false bottoms are more effective and less prone to problems.
DISCLAIMER - Always do your own research and make sure the parts that you are buying are all compatible and properly sized, etc. etc.
Having said that, the parts I listed above are exactly what I ordered and all fit together perfectly, I just needed to go out and buy a female coupler (to attach the valve to the hose from the false bottom) and a washer (per the included instructions with the valve, which had a additional washer for my configuration).
Those o-rings would work. There are different o-rings, I personally have little experience using them. /u/lpwl made a comment in a post a while ago:
>- A thicker O-ring will reduce key travel more than a thinner one.
>In other words :
>- If you want to quiet down the keyboard and soften the landing, get soft o-rings, ie in 40A or 50A durometer.
Here's a good post on his website that goes more into depth about o-rings. And here's a post on Geekhack.
If you want to skip reading all that then from what I've read the 40A-L Red O-Rings ($15) from WASD Keyboards is the most popular choice and Buna-N O-Ring 50A ($7). If you don't mind waiting a long time you can get o-rings on Ebay for $1.08, the measurements of this is very close to the red o-rings from WASD.
Also my first mech (haven't arrived yet though). I heard people like blues for typing and RTS (I plan to play SC2 on it) but perhaps not for FPS as the clicking might get annoying. The bottoming out probably produces the most noise though, so o-rings are good for that. The nice clicking will remain even with the o-rings. I just got these which are about 1/2 price of "keyboard-specific" o-rings.
WASD Keyboards the blue ones will dampen sound the most.
Amazon. Both WASD Keyboards and Max Keyboard also has O-rings on Amazon. Free shipping on Max Keyboard's O-rings and Amazon Prime on WASD Keyboards' red O-rings (blues are out of stock).
I honestly wouldn't bother with eBay unless if you want the buyer protection.
I believe these are ones most people buy. Note that o-rings will make the bottoming out a bit more like rubber domes, kind of squishy, but you will have less key travel distance, and it will be easier to actuate the switch a second time (i.e. you don't have to lift your fingers as high to get the switch to register again).
Get these. It doesn't completely silence the keyboard, but it keeps the keys from bottoming out and making the louder 'clank' noise. It also reduces travel distance of the keys, making it slightly easier to type.
If you want to save money this is the way to go
Looking for a full-size with MX Browns for general use plus gaming (USA), and the following are all pluses: Mac layout, white LED, detachable cord, simple aesthetics, and "floating keys" like Varmilo (definitely not all hard requirements except full size and Browns).
Current plan is WASD Code (has everything except floating keys, for 150 on Amazon or less if I can wait for MassDrop) with these O-rings (look equivalent to regular red ones), plus Vortex doubleshot PBT+POM backlit white keycaps thick OEM height ones that apparently look great on specifically the Code (plus they match my white Corsair 600T hackintosh case).
Any ideas? Decent cheaper alternatives I hadn't considered? Concerns I should be aware of with this setup? This Ducky One looks like a decent cheaper board at 120 with Browns and white LED, but the availability is listed only as preorder, which sounds to me like “unavailable for who knows how long”.
Apologies for my noobiness, and happy holidays!
Buna O - Rings
fuck yes i want pics. sounds like you almost went with dolch style color scheme.
nice price too. did you end up with brown switches?
o-rings can be really nice if you like to bottom out all the time. i do and it saves my fingers a lot of stress with my insane cave man style of key pounding.
i bought these on amazon. they seem nice enough.
it is a nice quick little mod. it also allows me to use my board in my cubicle at work. but i use blues. you use browns? you might be able to use browns at an office or at school without disturbing people.
Something like this:
I ferment in 10 gallon cornies and I just built myself a spunding valve to use as a test. Wasn't that hard the main bit is the valve itself, which I got off Amazon.
And then some fiddly bits to go from the Tee to the QD for the keg.
Funny this comes out the day all the parts for my spund build arrive. Good stuff! Got the parts in question from the chi company, valve and gauge off amazon.
1/4” NPT male x 1/4” JIC female
Nylon Flare Fitting Washers (1/4”)
Stainless Tee 1/4” x 1/4” x 1/4” NPT
Quick Disconnect - gas MFL
Pressure Relief Valve Adjustable Pressure 0-100psi 1/4” NPT
Pressure Gauge 60psi 1/4” NPT
Couple of things come to mind, this is one of them: https://redd.it/6p3f85
If you truly want just a valve this should work for you: https://smile.amazon.com/Electric-Solenoid-110-VAC-Normally-Closed/dp/B007N0J98E/
You'll need a few fittings to make it work with the hose, but that should be pretty minor.
Unless its a commercial air pump, which you dont need for 10 gallons it should be whisper quiet. Look into the Eco whisper series, they come in various sizes, all of which are quiet until you get to the commercial level. IF you feel you need heavier air output from a commercial size BUT you also need it quiet id go with https://www.amazon.com/General-Hydroponics-Dual-Diaphragm-Pump/dp/B008UF9XLY
Its what I use indoors for DWC 60 gallons across 4 reservoirs and it does fine.
TLDR; Your pump can be small enough that you shouldnt even hardly hear it running if at all
Here's the pump we bought for multiple buckets http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008UF9XLY?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=od_aui_detailpages00
You can even tee them off to do 8 buckets.
Buy a cheap HDMI switch if you want to switch between HDMI sources. It is entirely standalone and doesn't require a RPi or anything else.
You'll need something like this Hauppauge box plugged into your PC and just have a HDMI switch before it. They claim Linux drivers exist for it but you'll have to investigate how easy it is to get it running on a RPi.
There are cheap standalone HDMI encoders available such as this HDMI over IP transmitter or this Android settop box but they all require some work to get running properly. You're going to have to write significant amounts of code to get it all hooked up properly.
If you do want to capture a HDMI stream then you'll need to strip off HDCP first and then split the connection so one goes to your TV and one goes to the HDMI encoder box. You don't want to do encode then decode because it is lossy encoding and the latency will drive you nuts if trying to play on your PS4. The Hauppauge box claims it has a zero latency passthrough connection so you don't need to split it for that.
Honestly, your title needs to be more specific. If you're asking how to get the footage from the PS3 onto a computer, most people use (and I myself do the same) a PVR of some kind.
Most people I know use some form of a Hauppauge HD PVR, the one linked is a "specific" gaming one.
The PS3 has a cable to the PVR and from there it has 2 cables. One to the TV and one to the computer. Think of it as a crossroads which splits the image and sounds into 2 directions.
Then the inbuilt software records it onto your computer and you can chuck it into some video editing software and you're done.
I don't ferment in a corny keg, but my brews do end up in one. Here's my process:
If you don't have a kegerator, you can still do most of this process, but I would shy away from primary fermentation in a corny keg because of the yeast sediment that can build up in the various crevices in the corny keg (dip tube, poppet valves, etc.). Aside from that, the speed of 1F is partially dependent on the exposed surface area (where the pellicle forms) - a narrower opening like that of a corny keg makes for a slower 1F.
I AM NOT AN EXPERT MANY PEOPLE KNOW FAR MORE THEN I DO, MAYBE THEY WILL INTERJECT IF I AM WRONG
Alright, let me guide you away from the starter kit. It has helped me know what I'm doing, and develop my process, thinking about and acquiring the pieces I would need. Let's say to start off with you just are busting to brew! Can't contain it anymore!
Start off with these three things
-and I know it's not prime shipping but one of these
Plastic Carboys for $25.53 CDN with airlock and stopper
alright so baring the cost of shipping from AiH, plus a propane tank, siphon/tubing, and sanitizer. your looking at a cool $149.25 CDN for a bare bones basic kit for extract brewing.
Now you get a little more fancy, and throw in
This Auto Siphon
this brew in a bag
and this thermometer
and you right around $210 CDN minus a big ass spoon and bottling bucket that would be all you need to do all grain brewing from a bare bones stand point (ok baring ingredients also) but I think you could get off cheaper.. or at least better gear for the same money. especially since the kit you picked out doesn't even have a propane burner or pot this is a hell of a steal. You could go all out, buying a mini fridge and temperature controller for fermentation, an immersion chiller so your not icing down your beer post boil in a bathtub, custom mash paddles, etc.
What I got mad about when I started brewing was how much people were charging for what amounted too a couple of buckets, airlocks, benchcappers, and some "literature". When if you pieced it out it was more like price gauging because I did't know what I was doing.
Either way you go about it, welcome to paradise! Just wait till everyone starts rolling their eyes, when you bring up beer so you seek out friends that brew and you all start your big group beer tastings, I ♥ my beer buddies.
TL;DR : Here's an arguably better (and more utilized) "starter kits" of sorts for a basic bare bones set up. From a newly all grain brewer in a college apt
This is just a little more and a lot better suited.
A few questions about beer line. I got a great deal on a chest frezer and am building a keezer. I have almost all the parts picked out but need some help with beer line. I was planing on just using this tubing but am now concerned about vinyl flavors in my beer. Honestly the beer will most likely sit in the line for around 48 hours between pours. The two other things I am considering are Accuflex Bev-Seal Ultra or Ultra Barrier Silver. I am concerned that I with Accuflex Bev-Seal Ultra I will need to extend the lines to much in order to reduce foam. I would really like some insight on the problem I have spent 2 days debating this in my head and would really just like to order some parts so I can enjoy some beer.
I have 5/16" OD tubing in my keezer. Never had a problem with kinking. Once the tubing gets cold it is pretty stiff anyways. (although the 5/16" OD line is more flexible than the 7/16" lines I have, which is actually nice).
My personal preference for beer line is to buy it cheap and replace it often. Not sure what you ordered but this 3/16" x 5/16" beer line is what I use. When you buy it in 100 ft lengths it is extremely cheap... costs me about 70 cents to replace a beer line, which I do a couple times a year. So much easier than trying to do a thorough clean on a line that has had a sour or very dark beer in it. I flush with a little BLC and Star San between kegs but if it looks at all questionable I just replace the line.
something like this is what it use.
I use these:
Because they are cheap and have a great hardness, producing a very tactile switch. I slide them over the "arms" on either side of the MX stem on the bottom, then slide the click jacket back on, which now halts at the base of the two "arms"
I tried one pad with J-spacers, which are cool, but they feel less consistent to me. these come out super consistent and they have a very clean, sharp tactile bump, very low noise (depending on plate, etc) and in general are what I like the most out of everything I have tried.
I think solenoid valve is indeed the way to go.
You could hook up something like this Amazon link to a relay and a 12v power supply. I guess that particular one gets hot if you power the solenoid continuously for hours at a time, so it might not be the best for you project.
The support page for the Mini has all the links to mods. To get nice prints, I had to:
You may not have to do all these things, but my printer was a train wreck.
I also put in an E3D v6 hot end for $15 off Amazon and designed a double fan to cool it. You may not need that, but the extra cooling certainly helps with small parts.
I’ll upload some pics of print quality later. I have to head to work now.
Found these couplers on Amazon. Two for $4. Need to test but sofar it looks good.
Edit: This is a better solution than the 3dprint couplers available on thingsverse that I've tried. The reason is that the printed couplers clamp on the stepper motor shaft transferring the entire load of the X axis assembly to the bottom stepper motor bearing. This new coupler, like the Malyan original, retains the two nylon washers and transfers the load to the top bearing surface which is fixed to the motor case and printer chassis.
I find this works best
There is enough room in the base to carve out and install one of these guys in the base
For extra fun you can also install an inline juicer for a pour and play setup.
Reccomended ass milkshake recipe is-
5 grams psylocybe azuricans
15 peyote buttons
3 tabs acid
1/2 bottle of everclear
This is an easy fun home diy boof machine that you can make in under an hour!
I got this pump it’s a bit loud but works great.
I'm guessing something like this would constitute a 'bad idea':
Also yes, using cylindrical fiber filters.
I use an 12v rv water pump and a 12v power supply. The rv pumps are based on a diaphragm design and can handle a bit of debris going through them. I actually use an old computer power supply that you just have to mess with a little to perform the same function as the linked one. Just make sure your suction line is below your water level, it should stay primed.
Yeah a pool pump is definitely not a good fit. It is designed for high flow low pressure, you need the opposite.
I found a decent style of pump, an rv pump.
This one is a bit small only 1 GPM but it makes 80 PSI and it's cheap.
Something like this would be better but it's more expensive:
The first one has a couple reviews about people making portable showers
Was thinking about going with this guy. Bayite 12V DC Fresh Water Pump
I know you don’t know my set up, but you think this would work? I’ve been trying to piece together this project with minimal knowledge on solar, pressure, & volume.
Thanks for the help!
This is the 3/8" copper wort chiller that I have.
This is the tubing which I bought separately and have been using until now.
This is the tubing I'm considering purchasing.
Vinyl Tubing - 10 feet 5/16 ID - 7/16 OD (Food Grade) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000E62TCC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_G7d6BbHPD31ZP
I had similar problems with my cage. I got a jar of InstaMorph and made a little cover for the back of the bar. Works perfectly. I also used the slightly bigger ring and threaded it through a piece of Food Grade Vinyl Tubing which both reduces the diameter, but more importantly, makes it non-skin, without being to grippy. If that makes sense.
Without a proper airlock, the brewing vessel is either going to build up pressure and pop, or it's going to let in all sorts of things from the air, and would be about as safe as any attempt to drink grape juice that's been sitting out on the counter for a few weeks.
It's possible to brew this way, but it's almost guaranteed to end up poorly. There's a very high chance of it going bad, that is, of growing mold or other unwanted microbiotic visitors. You'll probably be able to see this happen.
Even if it doesn't work, the end result will most likely be one of the nastiest forms of wine you've ever had. It's not quite prison hooch, but it'll be close.
If you and your friends really want to try and get into brewing on the cheap, my suggestion is to start with an airlock and bung like these, find a gallon of apple juice or apple cider at the grocery store in a glass bottle with no preservatives (check the label), and drop in 1/4 of a packet of a brewing yeast like this one. It's a very beginner friendly (and kinda harsh) yeast that will survive mistreatment and bad conditions no problem. You put the yeast in the apple juice, you put a little water in the airlock, you put the airlock on the jug, and wait a month. You'll want to get a food safe hose to siphon out the brew when it's done, and you'll need bottles to age it in (the stuff will taste bad at first but give it 5-8 months and you'll have somethign wonderful). When the brew finishes that first month, fill up the bottles and seal them, then keep them somewhere cool for 5-8 months. Note: you'll need clean glass bottles, and you'll want to sanitize them or else any bugs in there will make the brew go bad while it ages. I like swing top bottles, they don't require a capper machine or a supply of caps.
Total cost to brew up a simple tasty cider, including all supplies:
Coming out to less than 50$ to get started, and most of that you won't have to buy again for later brews. If you find a local homebrewing shop you might be able to get these things cheaper... or not. At least you should be able to find them in single packs instead of amazon's bulk sets.
^^ Cheap o-rings. O-rings are essentially all the same (quality-wise, they're just little rubber rings lol). But like puppies said, there are varying sizes/thicknesses that you can choose. The above link is for 70A, browse the related products, as the thicknesses can range from like 50A upwards, look for what you like.
Corsair K70 RGB (MX Reds) here,
Totally agree with this guy, the O rings make a nice difference, there is less travel but you get used to it. I was surprised to find that there wasn't a difference in the light output when the O-Rings go on. Just search amazon for "keyboard o rings". I ended up buying these.
I tried a sample of the o-rings from WASD and found the 40a rubber was too soft for my liking. If I bottomed out, they felt mushy. Check these out, slightly harder and only $2, compared to $15.
You can get those same WASD ones direct from Amazon in either Red .2mm or Blue .4mm which at least saves you on shipping if you have Prime.
You can also get more generic, plain o-rings on Amazon in slightly different hardness. Both of these should work just as well for a considerably lower price. I found them via mech related links from Massdrop and here, but have tried neither myself.
I used these:
Nice and cheap, did the job just as well as the .4mm ones from Max Keyboard I'd previously tried. There might be a minor difference in travel limitations for the key -- but we're talking a tenth of a mm at most, and if you aren't bottoming out every key press you won't even notice that. The difference being that these are ever so slightly smaller than the .4mm's.
You can get harder o-rings (eg. 70A ones) for a harder bottom out while keeping the noise reduction. They sell these on Amazon for 2 dollars (only ships to the US, though): http://www.amazon.com/008-Buna-N-O-Ring-Durometer-Black/dp/B000FMWLR8
O-Rings. 1, 2.
I use these from Amazon. 2$, higher durometer rating to avoid the mushiness, and not price-gouging like WASD's stuff.
I had no idea O-rings were basically just industry specific rubber rings you don't have to buy at $18 from a keyboard shop.(makes sense when you think about it)
Mind blown, bought 200 of these for $4.
I got these for my keyboard, they fit great!
Yeah, I use a keyboard with MX Browns at work and installed o-rings under the switches and it's pretty quiet. I bottom out when I type and even then, I'm pretty sure nobody around me is bothered by it.
For anyone wondering, these are the exact o-rings I bought. Under $2 and shipped with Prime, and they fit perfectly.
It's a 100-pack so I think you might have to buy 2 if you want to cover every key on a full-size keyboard (I used one set of 100 on 2 keyboards, just covering the letter+number+modifier+spacebar/return/backspace keys). But still, buying 2 sets of these is under $4.
I ordered like.... a hundred for 11 bucks off amazon.
EDIT: Sorry, correction, it's like a dollar fifty for a hundred
I use mine (Gateron Reds) as a travel board. These should arrive today so people don't get annoyed by the clack. My logic is that it's worth trying out for $2.
Switches: If you're leaning towards Cherry MX switches but are still unsure of which ones you prefer, you can get a switch tester that includes red, black, brown, clear, blue, and green switches, as well as O-rings.
No matter which of switch you choose, it will still produce some noise, due to the key caps bottoming out. If you prefer a long-term keyboard with switches that produce tactile feedback, such as browns, blues, greens, etc., but are worried about the noise, you can get O-rings like these.
Which switch? I also code for lengthy periods of time and would prefer typing with something that produces tactile feedback, like either browns or blues. But since you have roommates, maybe browns would be better... unless they don't mind the click-clack noise, then get the blues since they're more satisfactory to type with. Heavy typer? Maybe you'll prefer greens since they require more force.
Keyboards: Of the keyboards you've narrowed down to, the Das or K70 are good. There're also the non-RGB K70s with single color LEDs that are cheaper than the ones with RGBs and come in red and brown switches.
I've owned the K70s with red LEDs and red switches and currently own the Ducky Minis with green switches. The LEDs on my K70 lasted throughout the time I've used it (< 2 years), but a friend's K70 had some that stopped working several months after use :/ I eventually sold the K70 and prefer green switches and a 60% mechKB since it's more portable.
I can't tell a difference between these and the 60A that cost $20/100.
While the Cherry MX Dampeners are probably pretty nice, I couldn't justify throwing an extra $20 on my keyboard so I used these instead:
They fit the stems very well and offer a good amount of dampening without making the keys feel mushy (at least to me). I like it so much that I even put them on my brown-switch k70.
Be aware: your blue switches will still be very clicky, you just won't get the "clack" when you bottom out and the bottoming out distance will be shallower (a plus for me, but that's personal).
I use these and they're pretty cheap.
Though they're on the stiffer side, they worked well on every switch I've used them on: clears, greens, blues, and reds.
EDIT: Accidentally switched the link and link title. hurrdurr
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FMWLR8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 they say $4 now, but I bought them for 2.20 about a month ago.
Cheap o-rings in Europe / Germany?
All prices I found through google are around 14-17 € or need some kind of mass buy.
I wouldn't mind the price but I don't even know if I even like them or the exact size I want.
I know of the cheap US ones but I can't really order from US Amazon and may have to pay shipping and Zoll anyway
I have a qpad mk 80 with reds by the way.
It's a good board, nothing fancy but it works well, I don't really like flashy, showy things anyways.
Both of mine have MX Clear switches and the original has o-rings and PBT blacked out caps.
I'm curious as well. I recently got these for my Nighthawk X7 : http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FMWLR8/
Only lasted a few hours before I was like "fuck this" and took them out.
There are some available on Amazon for very cheap. From what I've read they're slightly stiffer than their WASD cousins. I'm unfamiliar with Amazon's shipping policies, but I imagine their logistics infrastructure is faster than someone like WASD.
Also, the color of the o-ring won't have any effect on backlighting. The two colors that are primarily available (red and blue from WASD) are of differing thicknesses.
I'd say it's such a minute difference between them, I opted to buy some small rubber rings instead of branded "o-rings". You can check them out here! They work fine for me!
I just put o-rings on my alphanumerics on MX Clears and I'm enjoying it. It does actually make what I already feel is a quiet keyboard quieter, which was some of my goal. I also feel like it somehow made my typing a little more accurate, but that's likely just in my head. It definitely changed the way the keys feel a little bit, they have a bit of a "tighter" feel for lack of a better word (I'm sure there's someone more fluent in keyboard that can better attest to o-rings on Clears). Personally, I like the change a lot as I almost feel like it makes the keys heavier and the presses more defined. I might change my mind and go without; I've only been using them for 2 days so far.
For anyone considering, honestly, pick some up for $2 with Prime shipping and just try it out for a bit. Worst case scenario you're out of $2 and then you have a vehement negative opinion that you can later share in threads like this, woo!
These rings severely reduce the clack from bottoming out and they are quite a bit denser than most other rings, so they are not squishy. Highly recommended. Don't buy into the clear rings, they don't affect the backlight to justify the cost.
Source: Own three mechanical keyboards and I like them so much, I put rings on all of them.
Two quick questions, both since parts of the wiki seem messed up or old.
- [Is this still the best deal on O rings?](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FMWLR8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) I took my shitty old ones off my pok3r and I hate how it feels now.
- Is there anywhere to cop a Leopold FC750R in that snow white style with cmx reds where you won't pay up the ass for it? I need to tell people I want something that isn't $400 for christmas, lol.
For your dry firing needs:
I went brown to not completely drive my family crazy. Unfortunately, I've been toting it between home and work, and now I want to buy another for the office. THAT one will have blues :D
If you're looking to add o-rings, someone tipped me off to these $2 beauties on amazon and they're working wonderfully.
I use this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FOWGGW?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Eek, those vinyl hoses on the HLT and mash tun!
Edit: This is worth the 16 bucks.
The tubes are all silicone. It's rather expensive, but it's rated to 260°C (500°F)
I got this one but for that type of fitting, you'd want 1/2" ID probably (I had to buy larger tubing locally because that particular one was a little too thin).
I have the EVO too, and I have a whip. Love it!
As a suggestion, the official whip is hella expensive. You can build your own really easily and maybe ch cheaper.
Then grab a male and female (probably 18mm, 14 if you need it) from Oregon Glass Blower
I bought mine and love it.
EDIT: I actually just went and looked at vapeXhales site. Their prices have come down since I looked last time.
Im using this
Jel zna neko kako se ovo zove na Srpskom? https://www.amazon.co.uk/AV-Link-Ground-Loop-Isolator/dp/B000NVWB9O
Update 2: I have found the cause of the problem and what was needed to fix. I will post below what i found so if anyone else gets this, they can fix it.
Everything needed to fix this in this video. It was a grounding problem caused by a crappy PC. This little box eliminated all static noises, and has actually increased audio quality. With this i also bought a 2x1/4" jack to RCA cable, as that is the type of input my monitors take, all equipment used listed here: (UK Amazon)
Ground Loop Isolator: https://www.amazon.co.uk/AV-Link-Ground-Loop-Isolator/dp/B000NVWB9O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1522861082&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ground+loop&amp;dpID=413Ja6ofpeL&amp;preST=_SX300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
2x1/4" Jack to RCA: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B006H0E4YA/ref=psdc_407727031_t2_B004EBKV1Y
Ground Loop Isolator: https://www.amazon.com/InstallGear-Ground-Isolator-Noise-Filter/dp/B077Y5DLBB/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1522861210&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=ground+loop+isolator
2x1/4" Jack to RCA: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O19/ref=psdc_3236443011_t1_B004NCYVY2
Pretty good prices here on Amazon It is slightly thinner than the tubing I got from HBS, but it is still very good. Plenty of sizes, too.
This works pretty well.
I usually get 25' of the 1/4" Inside Diameter, and cut to size.
Ninja edit: got my numbers all wrong. This is the one I use. Takes some work to get it on to the glass tube with the ridges, but once it's on there. it'll stay for a while.
A quick google: https://www.amazon.com/White-Silicone-Rubber-Tubing-Grade/dp/B003TJ9YQU
I have read somewhere else on this board that, as long as it is food grade, it is safe to use.
You'll have to check yourself if this tube seals with your glass. I don't have a DBV, so I can't check it for you.
the answer is all about the type of tubing and metal. I cant give advice on metals but i did have a very similar problem with my vape getting too hot for its plastic tubing. I fixed it by getting high grade silicon tubing, which you can get on amazon for like $1/ft.
the general rule of thumb is glass, stone, or wood IMO. (you can also use a hallowed out coconut if you can engineer that, just an idea) or even better, a glass soda bottle (preferably w/o lead)
No problem. These are them. http://www.amazon.com/White-Silicone-Rubber-Tubing-Grade/dp/B003TJ9YQU. The tube really doesn't get hot at all so it's not much to worry about. They are food grade. I get 5/16 inner diameter and 1/2 outer. I was a little off about the price though. It's about $2/ft
Hey sorry I didn't answer for so long. I got mine here. Internal diameter must be 1/4 inch to accommodate the stem. I went with an overall diameter of 3/8 inch. The skinnier stuff is a little cheaper I think but you don't want it to be too skinny or else it'll fold in on itself.
The $40 is worth it to get a good silicone o-ring, washer, and SS parts, in my opinion. I got this one and I'm happy with it. I just don't think you'll save enough to make up for having inferior stuff.
I have the pot you referenced in the post and KAB4 burner that another poster recommended.
Pot is decent, but you can get better one. I've used it for a year so far, got a bit of a ding on a bottom, but it's ok. It's not super thick, but I guess it makes it lighter. What I would want in a pot is the markings for how much water is there. Another thing is having a valve there to drain the wort, built-in thermometer is nice too, i do BIAB though, so thermometer sticking out can potentially damage the brew bag. The valve you can buy yourself and drill a hole/install it - something like this:
The burner is good, I converted it to natural gas so I don't need to buy propane and worry about it running out in the middle of brewday.
That's actually a Bayou Classic, pretty cheap, nothing special.
The key was 3-in-1 oil with a stepped drill bit.
You can look into stainless. Can't go wrong with 304 stainless. Also since this is all pre-boil sanitation is that big of a concern. Mine was stainless. Paid a little more but for the piece of mind it is nice.
I believe this is the one I got.
HomeBrewStuff 1/2" Stainless Steel Valve Weldless Bulkhead For Home Brew Kettle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00420WMUU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_7yz6wbRPCZK53
I picked up a WinWare aluminum boiling pot for $40 last year, drilled a hole in it (I think that the bit was $20) and installed a $20 valve. Since purchasing it, I've used the bit for two valves, a thermometer, and two sightglass installs.
Edit: The pot
Holiday Deal Valve Alternative
You might be able to find better deals on Cyber Monday, though.
All you need is a drill gun and dish soap (the soap is a nice lubricant so you don't wear the bit down quickly)
I ordered this one about a year ago and have used it probably about 20 times since then. I love this pot and plan on installing a weld-less ball valve on it this weekend. Like what kds1398 said, the main downside is the size if you don't have a valve because once you get 7.5 gallons of wort in it she can get heavy. The only other really minor negative I can think of is that a lot of gunk and stuff gets caught and hidden under the little lip near the top, you just have to be careful when cleaning it but it's really no big deal. I would definitely buy this pot again.
exactly what I have, works perfectly
So I finally put my mash tun together last weekend. I hit a few small snags that I should have seen ahead of time based on reviews of the spigot I bought!
Total Cost: $76
Time to assemble: 15 minutes +- 5 minutes for testing the seal
Main suggestion - get either a false bottom or one of the short bazooka screens. The long bazooka screen is a pain to work with -- it barely fits in the cooler. I also heard there are spigots you can buy that come with a female connector so you wouldn't have to buy the coupling.
Take a close look at the instructions for the spigot - it spells out how to put it together correctly but the diagram was super confusing to me for some reason.
My primary frustration was that none of my local hardware stores had the coupling so I had to get and wait for it from Amazon. Lame!
My plumbing in the cooler sits pretty flush with the inner wall. Basically the only thing exposed on the inner wall is the nut.
We used a weldless valve for the boil kettle: 1/2" Stainless Steel Valve Weldless Buldhead and we used this video to make the counter flow chiller.
I did ice baths for a full year prior to making all this equipment. While I made great beer, I was tired of adding those extra hours to my brew day so I built this chiller. It's seriously amazing. I was able to empty 6 gallons of beer into my carboy and have it cooled to pitching temperature in about 10-15 minutes.
(And sorry for some of the potato quality or motion blur photos. I'm not a professional!)
Look in craigslist, Hit yard sales for the water cooler or Chest Cooler and a Stainless Steel Valve
I've done a bunch of 1 gallon all-grain batches (and a few 5 gallon extract batches) and want to try my luck with 2.5 gallon all-grain. I bought a 5 gal cooler and a ball valve kit, but would kind of like to swap out the barb on the ball valve for cam lock fittings to make it easier to clean.
What cam lock fittings are best for this type of setup? I'm guessing the "D Style" from looking here but it's a complete guess.
These work for mechanical keyboards and are a little cheaper alternative (not exactly what you're looking for but at least something to look into). http://www.amazon.com/008-Buna-N-O-Ring-Durometer-Round/dp/B0051XWXCE/ref=pd_sim_pc_43?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=03FZ1HQD6G9QPY8Q69KS
That being said, they're 50A not 40A. Otherwise, maybe someone has 4 extra they wouldn't mind shipping you?
I have a corsair k70 and its been great. If they are too loud you can put these under the keys.
First off try doing the o-ring modification with these. I found that it cut down on the sound of my mech keyboard and made the keyboard a bit nicer to type on.
If you really want to bail on mechanical though I use this for coding at work and I really like it for that. Otherwise I actually really like apple's usb keyboard with the numpad.
These. I don't know if they're hard or soft, but iirc they have a 2mm travel reduction.
Slime? I assume you mean slim...
For anyone interested, this is the actual one I was looking at and one of the reviewers said it would work. Measurements seem to match closely to the ones on wasd.
Something like that ^^
I used these, but felt they made bottoming out too mushy.
Ok I guess I paid more than $3, these show as $8 right now: http://www.amazon.com/008-Buna-N-O-Ring-Durometer-Round/dp/B0051XWXCE/ref=pd_sim_pc_1
But if you search for "o-ring" on Amazon there are quite a few results that are cheaper, in varying sizes.
I bought these for my QuickFire Rapid (black), removes the "mushy" feeling as some describe it. Feels really good and solid. Not sure about shipping to Canada, but these o-rings are very common and there are tons of reviews of users installing them on heir MechKBs.
If the reds are softer than the blacks, i don't know how you'll rest your fingers on the keys w/out depressing them. I find the blacks to be ideal for gaming and more than acceptable for typing. If I did more typing than mousing, I'd definitely want browns or blues.
Be sure to get yourself some O-rings though, otherwise you'll need some earplugs.
If you're interested, these are the ones I used on my keyboard. I think the Razer blue switches are a little different than the standard ones, but I don't see any reason they wouldn't work with how similar the two are.
I just got this keyboard to, if you don't like the loud clacking from bottoming out, you can get o-rings to use as spacers under the keys, quieted mine down, so all I hear is the blues clicking.
Link to the o-rings on amazon.
I have the red LED version of the K70 and the MX reds are pretty quiet. I put some O-rings on each key to limit their throw (the Reds actuate at the beginning of the depression rather than at the end like some other keys). The O-Rings made a HUGE difference in noise.
I find this keyboard to be just a smidge louder than my old logitech 510 but with the added benefits of being able to type without any sort of hand pain.
Here is the Amazon page: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051XWXCE/
Here are the O-Rings that I bought along side the WASD keyboard ones.
The WASD Keyboard brand ones are defiantly a lot softer and dampen a little better than the generic brands. :)
How about $8 from Amazon? These are harder (50A) than the blue/red sets, and should have a travel reduction of about 0.2mm
Put an order in for the brown version yesterday along with some o-rings. Since the browns looked like they were going fast, I didn't have enough time to get in-depth on my search for o-rings and grabbed these to throw on the same order.
008 Buna-N O-Ring, 50A Durometer, Round, Black, 3/16" ID, 5/16" OD, 1/16" Width (Pack of 125)
Thanks man, and merry christmas! I found these (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051XWXCE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER) but they dont ship to Norway, so im honestly not sure where to buy these things, damn.
I have the BWU as well and used these. They worked fine and slightly mute the sound of them hitting the board when you push a key in. It wont make then silent, but it helps and is a cheap purchase.
I bought these for 20$ including shipping to germany, which should be a lot less for domestic shipping.
These are the ones I have, dont know the size in metric and Im to lazy to look it up
Not sure if these are technically meant for a keyboard, and you won't be able to tell someone the exact size rating (in terms of the Cherry MX o-ring thicknesses from the pic I linked) but they're pretty cheap, there are more than enough for a full size keyboard, and they're what I used on my BW Ultimate: Amazon Link.
You need a keycap puller (or a way to get keycaps off) if you don't have one, but those are pretty cheap and easy to find.
I mean that's a totally fine train of thought. I just recommended them because I felt my browns were way too loud. Once I got my o rings, the sound got dampened significantly, so I thought the 8 dollars I spent on the O rings was justified.
This seems like a good idea: https://www.amazon.com/Kerick-Valve-MA052-Float-Adjustable/dp/B0077RAP1I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1466286871&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=water+tank+float+valve
I have done very similar stuff! Ill take some pictures for you to explain how it all works.
I was doing some thinking about your potential setup and i realized that if that unit's tank is plumbed up to drain in to a 5gallon bucked, there's nothing to prevent the bucket from overflowing. I have a solution for that though! all it takes is for the drain pipe to run through a float valve to the bucket.
this is the float valve, which is 8$
what that would do is stop the flow of water in to the bucket so it doesn't overflow. The hose will then start to fill up until it backflows into the unit's reservoir, and because the hole you drilled is below the max fill line, the unit will fill up and then shut off, at which point you will have to dump the bucket and the units reservoir, but should increase your capacity by about 3-4 gallons, depending on how high up the bucket you put the float valve.
I know it all sounds a little complicated but its really quite simple once you understand the parts.
check out this awesome video explaining the part i just talked about. Imagine his bin is your bucket(you could also use a tote bin like that) and imagine that blue tube is connected to your unit's tank.
You'll need the full power of an electricl outlet to do this. At least 1500 watts or 10-12amps. So you don't have power?
You can use a 12v pump and a solar panel. Look at Harbor Freight 12v pump and look for Harbor Freight 60w solar panel.
If you don't have power, you'll need to pump water up and use gravity feed to get pressure. A rain barrel about 30ft higher then where you want water should give you enough water pressure. This a float valve helps: https://www.amazon.com/Kerick-Valve-MA052-Float-Adjustable/dp/B0077RAP1I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1465850762&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=float+valve
You could use a pretty standard mechanical float valve to refill water reservoirs. Something along these lines
Maybe this is cheap enough wfor you?
Oh, and with free shipping included, this one
Heres an item for 18 cents (including free prime shipping)
18 Cents with Amazon Prime shipping. This is an interesting contest :D
If I win I'd prefer a gift card as I'm saving for some video games, but if you'd rather buy a physical item, I do have some blu rays on my lists less than $5 :)
$.18 with Prime that is if Prime is allowed.
Yes.. that is eighteen cents. Should I win.. might I nudge you twards my MP3 list? I'm trying to go legit
[This is the cheapest I can find (prime shipping)] (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B007A5XM3K/ref=nosim/krisssoccersi-20/), I would like [this] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/BT00DC6QU4/gcrnsts?ie=UTF8&amp;ref_=reg_hu-rd_add_1_dp).
these have a 0.15 minimum :P
unforetunetely the cheapest item with free shiping is this
Would this work? It's rated to 30psi and just needs to be capped on the male end.
This one is adjustable, but needs to be adapted to 3/4".
What if you did this:
Fermenting keg > pressure relief valve (set to say 22psi for spunding purposes at room temperature) > oversized tubing that could fit over the pressure relief valve > check valve > co2 keg > spunding valve (like 120-130psi).
Then you could use the co2 keg as a co2 tank.
Pressure relief valve: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007GDY3CU/ref=as_at/?imprToken=9h1Z-UNJjbEBc2vuAiG75A&amp;slotNum=0&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=390957&amp;creativeASIN=B007GDY3CU&amp;linkCode=w61&amp;tag=hombrefin-20&amp;linkId=CNQ6I4IKSFEAO43T
Relay Timer: https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Digital-Switch-110-220V-IDT-E2RH/dp/B008KV65MS
Pressure Switch: https://www.coleparmer.com/i/dwyer-cxa-s3-water-pump-pressure-switch-nc-range-35-150-psig-2-4-10-3-bar/6806346
Solenoid valve: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007N0J98E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
They do make automatic top offs for aquariums which could be modded for this. it is meant however to control a pump from a reservoir to fill up the aquarium instead of from the tap. you could buy [this] (http://www.amazon.com/Electric-Solenoid-110-VAC-Normally-diesel/dp/B007N0J98E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1373403144&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=water+solenoid+valve+110) and use it with a JBJ ato(one I use for my reef tank.) Or buy this if you want the diy way and hook it up accordingly. There are already cheap options so I personally would choose another project and use whats already available on the market for your hydroponic system
If anyone is interested... I did experiment with one and it worked rather well for the test.
This is the valve I used
You can use a valve like that and control with a wireless relay such as a sonoff basic or a Z-wave switch.
I have one, picked it up from indoorgrowingcanada.com and I love it. I had a Fluval Q1(45-80gal) running 2x 8" stones in rez and a Q2(50-160gal) running 5x 4" one in each pail.
I now could run just with the GH dual with 8x 4" stones and also could easily run the 2x 8" in the rez too (they are still on the Q2 for redundancy reasons) and still have air left over for my aerocloner.
Make sure to hang it upside down by the base for quietest operation, but its easily as quiet as my smaller aquarium pump and moves so much more air just sitting upright on the base. Stay away from the eco air style of pumps if noise is an issue.
The only downside is it doesnt have a 3/8s outlet, so I just fed two 1/4 lines to my manifold inside and same same. The valves are easy to use and seal up good. It doesnt get any hotter than an aquarium pump too.
All in all, im real happy with my purchase.
One stone per container is fine. I would buy a better pump like this one https://www.amazon.com/General-Hydroponics-Dual-Diaphragm-Pump/dp/B008UF9XLY and use that to power all the pumps. I have about 5 of these and they work great.
> Korean diaphragm airpumps
Like This?. Have you used this pump? How many do you think I need for my system? Looks like regen blowers pull way too much current.
Yeah my two air stones are bubbling away now with [this] (https://www.amazon.ca/Marina-11116-200-Air-Pump/dp/B0048AOQK8). Its a pretty basic air pump but it seems to be going alright. It's only aerating about 7-8 gallons of water. Its replacing my old pump that broke.
It is possible to capture video from an iPhone or Android using a video capture device, and something like an MHL to HDMI adapter.
The exact versions you use will depend on what you want to spend, the devices you want to use them on (especially considering the compatibility of your mobile device). Obviously this means some hardware cost, but it might be worth considering in the future if you wanted to branch into mobile games.
I would advise that you look into getting Premiere Pro for your video editing (it's my personal favourite), or maybe just something as simple as Windows Movie Maker if you are unsure about getting a bigger program.
As for your recording, check out FRAPS or Bandicam for PC recordings.
For console, check out any capture card or HDPVR (High Definition Personal Video Recorder).
My friend has one of these which he uses to record from his and the result is a good quality video.
For your voice recordings, take a look at Audacity which is a good free program for microphone recordings, although you will need a microphone for your computer.
Hit me up if you'll like any more help!
Hey - here is the hardware that I use to record my consoles (including Wii U) HERE
It will record anything that outputs video via a HDMI cable (or composite), and records on your PC via a USB cable and software that comes on the disc included with the hardware.
For recording your son (video/audio), he will need a camera and a microphone that can have its files eventually saved onto a PC for editing. I don't record any video of myself, but I use a Dictaphone (I paid around £80 for a decent one) to record myself talking and can connect it via USB to my PC where I join up the video (and game audio) taken from the games console and the audio (from my dictaphone) in video editing software (you can use any software that you can combine a separate audio file to a pre-existing video file).
I choose to record my Audio on a separate device, opposed to buying a microphone to record audio directly on my PC, as my PC is quite slow and does struggle to record both the game video and audio at the same time. Might be something to take into consideration if your PC is quite old.
I hope that helps :) however, as someone else has stated here, Nintendo get really funny about people uploading their games to Youtube. Technically Youtube stipulates that you can upload game footage as long as someone is talking over it and the commentary adds educational or instructional value to the game - a lot of people would argue comedic commentary also fits into this legally.
I wouldn't get used hardware. I'm just too "safe" I guess.
I did just find out that there are other capture devices that don't use HDMI-input. I don't have time to have a proper look now, but this appears to connect to a PC through USB. Any idea on the performance for this sort of device in comparison?
When moving kombucha from its fermenting vessel into bottles for consumption, I used to pour it through a funnel straight from the jar, but this really stirs everything up and all of that stuff at the bottom ends up in the bottles. You can run it through a strainer if you want some of the larger particles out, but I bought an autosiphon on Amazon and use this to move kombucha around while leaving the gunk behind.
It has really improved the clarity of the bottles I produce and I think the people I give them to appreciate it, because they seem to be afraid of the stuff that floats around or accumulates on the bottom.
I was considering getting this thing in the future, but it sounds like that spring filler may be better.
This might be a better investment. I use this for my 2F and it works great. You may also want to get a Air lock and a siphon as well.
TLDR: The "Full kit" looks like it has the basics. As others have said, you might want a food-grade plastic bucket for primary fermentation, and you'll need bottles/containers to store the end product in.
If it were a "complete" kit I'd probably put one together which included One step sanitizer to sanitize equipment,a plastic fermentation bucket, and an auto-syphon to make racking (i.e., transferring the liquid from container to container) easier.
If it's something you're interested in pursuing further, there's plenty more you could consider picking up. A bottle filler for the auto syphon, a filtration kit to help clarify wine/mead, fining products, you might want to look into picking up more things like yeast energizer and yeast nutrient (which it sounds like this kit comes with some) and sulfate/sorbate (to stabilize the mead before back-sweetening) etc.
There are lots of recipes and lots of help available, so read up and feel free to ask questions and have a lot of fun experimenting and trying new things :)
You could try a racking cane
I'd like to do 5 gallon batches. I don't think the quantity from the Mr Beer keg is worth it.
How's this look? Total is around $80.
Star San or Idophor (What's the difference?)
Is there any advantage to having a carboy as well? How long would I leave the beer in the fermentation bucket?
So if I wanted to do sours, I'd basically have to get 2 of everything?
Edit - actually, wouldn't this kit be about the same, but with an extra bucket but no stock pot?
Edit 2 - another pot, 36qt is good price, leaving this here so I can find it again.
I would strongly caution against a 35 quart pot. The Bayou Classic 44 quart (11 gallon) pot is only a little more, and it's of dimensions more ameniable to brewing (tall, rather than squat). If you plan to migrate to BiaB, the version with the basket is quite useful; you'll be able to fire your heat source without worrying about scorching the bag.
For ingredients, I would recommend looking around for a LHBS (local homebrew shop). You'll likely not save much money ordering those online, due to their weight/cost ratio, and a LHBS is often the centre of your local community of homebrewers.
With regard to literature, my bible is John Palmer's How To Brew. You can also read the first edition online, but much has been learnt since that was published and the latest edition has current best practices.
That equipment kit is decent, but there are a lot of things in it you'll probably wish you hadn't bought.
You will want:
If you feel it's the mouthpiece itself (doubtful, but whatever) replace it entirely with a length of 5/16" OD vinyl tubing. The tubing fits perfectly so it won't fall out on its own, and if you replace the mouthpiece screen with the ELB top screen the tube slips perfectly right down into the screen.
I did this on mine because I found the end of the mouthpiece getting too hot. The tubing solves that problem and makes it more convenient to hold as well since you don't have to hold the whole thing up to your face.
Personally though I find it hard to believe the mouthpiece itself is the problem. It has a huge air path running through and unless you've got an armadillo stuck in there I find it much more likely it's the screen.
I use this tubing for my draft line tho. it is more than likely smaller then your tubing.
Apologies everyone, it is 1.5 ft!
This is what I'm using for line:
ATP Vinyl-Flex PVC Food Grade Plastic Tubing, Clear, 3/16" ID x 5/16" OD, 100 feet Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E6BCXQ8/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_k8sXCbX7X23X0
It's been kegged for about a 3 and a half weeks, for the first three days I had it at about 35psi and shook the keg every once in awhile.
Also, I used
to calculate the length
This is what I bought for beer lines. It takes about 8 feet for proper flow rate. I've heard of people getting off flavors because they used the vinyl hose at high heat.
Sure! I got into it pretty heavy with a grand or two in brewing equipment at one point. A seltzer kit is pretty basic because you don't have to boil or "make" anything, but the gear will still nickel and dime you to death:
The rest of the cost is going to be in refrigeration and faucets, if you want to go that route. You can also get party faucets like you see on commercial rentable taps which do just fine but a nice chrome faucet looks and works better if you have the right setup.
Assuming you drink ~3 cases La Croix a week at $3/case (12 pack) that would end up around $36-40/month which would take 12-14 months to even out if you end up spending $500 or so on the entire setup, but that's retail and that's assuming your La Croix is only $3. We can only find it around here for $5 :/ Check Craigslist frequently and you'll find deals from people like me who need to get rid of their equipment en masse. Cost of the seltzer is almost negligible if you do plain fizzy water. If you do citrus I think I used ~20oz for 5 gal of my last batch which was 15-20 lemons/limes. A 5 gallon batch equals out to around 50 12oz drinks so the cost of 4+ cases of fizzy water is cut down to the cost of 20 lemons or $5-10.
tl;dr- initial cost is high but it will pay for itself in a year or less and think of all the cans that won't get dumped back into the world.
Edit: If you can find a system like this you'll be golden. It has all the parts I just listed including a nice chrome faucet and tower. All you'd need to do is pick up a used keg and the proper connectors which could easily be found for <$75.
I am building a keezer. New to kegging. need some help with what gas and liquid lines I need. I bought a 10# CO2 tank, dual body regulator, and a 3 way gas manifold. My plan is to have a high pressure line out of the regulator for a seltzer water keg and also to force carb. then one line to the 3 way manifold for the 3 other taps at serving pressure.
I'm not sure what type of hose I need for each application, length for beer lines/ seltzer water line etc. Any help is much appreciated.
Edit: what about this for beer line? found on HBF... reviews look good. Is the thin wall a concern?
Your lines are too short. Even with your 4mm line, 1.5 meters isn't nearly enough. Try 3.35m (11ft) of 4.8mm (3/16") ID at 12 PSI for your average keezer. Here's a cheap option.
You don't want to drop your pressure as your beer will slowly lose carbonation.
When I moved, I dissasembled everythiing for shipping and cleaned them in the process. My lines are a bit old, but I wash/rinse/sanitize everything before kegging. I actually just ordered this a few weeks ago and have been meaning to put it on. Maybe I'll go ahead and do that and see if that fix's my problem. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E6BCXQ8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I've got 9' of beer line currently on 2 of 3 of my taps. 5' on the other one which i generally use for stouts and other low carb beers. How much extra line are you thinking? 12'?
Yeah, I suppose I read that incorrectly. I thought he was advocating for these which are popularly referenced and ones that I use. I guess in my mind I was thinking cumulative not individual.
Honestly i dont know...i used it when i first built my 5 tap keezer and have since moved to using this
Way cheaper, way more of it and i havent noticed a difference in beer taste at all.
I hated how rigid the bevseal line is, it made installing and finding places to hide the large coils when moving stuff around inside the keezer a giant pain in the ass
This other stuff is much easier to recoil into a tight coil, throw some zip ties around and move to the corners of my keezer. I wont be going back to bevseal, even if its given to me. Installing it is a god damn nightmare, and removing it from my shanks was just as painful.
I do have some old rubber tubing on the 'out' end of the chiller, so maybe I'll clamp some of this on it to avoid a funky rubber taste.
I'm fairly certain my water is chlorine free, but wouldn't boiling remove the chlorine?
this works well for me. fits over my herc and nibbler xl mouthpieces without anything extra. also fits over my 10mm male joint on my little rig without anything extra.
You only need about an inch of it, but I find all kinds of fun uses for the extra.
Similar material and same dimensions, still ~$13
Sterling Seal ORBN002x1000... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015O31JFM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Technically not keyboard/switches/keys, but does anyone know if there's an actual difference in feeling between Jailhousing with Jspacers or just using these O-rings that get linked? Don't know if anyone has actually tried both
This might be the ticket, because with that type of tubing, I think you want quick connects. I'm not sure about the pressure rating, or if it would be easy to connect to an Arduino.
Yes I think using this type of board would make it easy for me wire multiple outlets together.
These are the switches that I will be using.
Do you think they will work? I'm still trying to wrap my head around how the switches will be wired into that PCB board. I kinda got the idea, but its still a bit hazy. I have a biology background lol, but been messing with electronics since younger days.
[This is the solenoid I will be using] (http://www.amazon.com/DIGITEN-Solenoid-Connect-normally-Closed/dp/B016MP1HX0)
Can’t help you with programming but you could eliminate the pump and use gravity feed and a valve like this
1/4" push in compression fittings.
I don't like the dash button idea. I do actually have those setup, but the delays involved would add uncertainty about time.
I found this solenoid, so that could work maybe, but Id have to hard a timer somehow. DIGITEN DC 12V 1/4" Inlet Feed Water Solenoid Valve Quick Connect N/C normall... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016MP1HX0/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_x_aqIczbQ7W75MF via @amazon
The minimum pressure for this valve is 15 psi. I am running my drip irrigation out of my rain barrel, with a pond pump. It doesn't make enough pressure to actuate the pilot in this valve.
I have tried the following valves, that only require 3 psi and they work. I wish there was better option that didn't require a minimum presure.
I've tried everything to get rid of this ridge pattern, every 4.3mm or so. It happens along the X-axis (both sides) of a lithophane box, but not the Y-axis. I tried both .1325 and .175mm height. The litho is 115x115mm. The belts appear tight. I replaced the base coupling with this flexible coupling: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018VE5YAW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_w5j2CbQ95ZEE4. I replaced the heat break and nozzle. The hot end temperature looks stable at 200C, and same for bed temperature at 65C. The extruder is stock, but I dont see how it would create a cyclical pattern on one axis only. The repetitive pattern suggests a mechanical problem. Also, it appears the grooves are facing one direction in that what is a groove on one side of the wall is a protrusion on the other.
I have a second MPSM, where the lithophane prints without ridges with the same Cura profile.
I have no idea what is happening. Help.
I had the same problem. This fixed mine.
2pcs 3x4mm CNC Motor Jaw Shaft Coupler 3mm To 4mm Flexible Coupling OD 19x25mm (3x4mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018VE5YAW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_x2IPDb932DYNE
Ground loops work in mysterious ways, but considering all three of those components have separate earth connections, it's almost certainly a ground loop.
The ground loop probably isn't between the USB and the DAC, though - it's probably between the DAC and the speaker. Use a transformer-based RCA isolator like this - https://www.amazon.co.uk/AV-Link-Ground-Loop-Isolator/dp/B000NVWB9O (a million different companies sell them)
This is basically what I'm referring to.
You know, like this.