(Part 2) Best power drill chucks according to redditors

It was an M12 drill, not an M18, which apparently behave differently in this respect according to other people commenting, but this is my favorite chuck.

Good call on the teflon tape, caulk / gun (learn the differences between latex and silicon) and shop-vac.

I was indecisive on the dremel b/c it is not often I've needed to use it and a drill can basically use most of the dremel attachments, right?

Could you also point to a SPECIFIC corded impact driver? For whatever reason when I go to the store I always end up confused after seeing all the drill / driver marketing materials.

I have probably this one: http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-D21008K-Heavy-Duty-8-Inch-Keyless/dp/B00006JSPI/ref=sr_1_6 ... and it works well, but I'm forever running into issues when trying to do things a bit more heavy duty.

--Robert

For ease of washing get one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Eazypower-30167-40-Inch-Flexible-Extension/dp/B0009XAFXU

Or see this,

https://www.amazon.de/Bosch-Zubeh%C3%B6r-2608190046-Drehmomentaufsatz-f%C3%BCr/dp/B00141BTQ8/

This attachs to IXO 3, 4 and 5 and can utilise drill bits.

I would still recommend the IXO series to you as you are just starting.

it will depend on what your thinking about doing. are you going to dedicate it to the table? answer these questions first.

generally people use a router table for work that would be dangerous if done by hand or requires very large cutter or cannot be done off the edge via a roller bearing.

making millwork for doors or windows, raised panel doors, stick and cope cabinet door construction, pattern routing...

I would start with the router table I wanted first? then work back to the motor/size brand that fits your budget.

your going to get all kinds of answers from /r/woodworking on tool brands. it's like a religious type of thing with most people.

Hitachi, Dewalt, Porter Cable all make very nice routers. my jess em table has a larger porter cable and it has run thousands and thousands of linear feet of material.
this one, it used to be the largest router they made. I don't know if that is true anymore but for a router table, go big.

http://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7518-Speedmatic-5-Speed-Router/dp/B0000222V3

although I have only really been buying festool stuff for the last 3 or so years and would never go back to the other brands, but I know that is not an option for everybody and some like to just hate the festool stuff because it's very expensive. For me the $ is not an obstacle and they are the best production quality machines out there.

once again I'm a heavy user, as close to prosumer wood worker as you can get and have been doing it for a long long time.

edit:
also put one of these on your table router if you can

http://www.amazon.com/MuscleChuck-Camless-Change-2-Inch-Porter/dp/B00AO717HE/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_8?ie=UTF8&refRID=1Z8N9WHXD921CHNBPEDP

makes changing bits super easy, no more busted knuckles. I think white side also has something like this?

I haven't done this myself but I've seen some people replace the chuck on their M12 Fuel with this Rohm chuck. The chuck seems to be a common complaint.

So I've started buying the parts to see if I could make this thingamabob as well. It looks so useful!

One thing I think I've discovered while researching: I think it might not be absolutely necessary to buy the exact same chuck that the original maker used. I'm thinking any 1/2" threaded chuck would do. Here's my reasoning: I thought at first that the threaded rod coming off the lever piece would screw directly into the chuck (and thus it would be important to match up the threading of the lever shaft with the threading inside the chuck. But now that I look at the step-by-step instructions on the original maker's webpage, the lever shaft is screwing directly into the nut he's epoxied onto the chuck. I think the lever shaft screws into the nut and then just moves deeper into the chuck when he adjusts the height of the piece, never actually touching the threads of the chuck itself. I ordered the same lever you did, and after taking it down to a hardware store and playing with that little gadget that helps you determine threading sizes, I found out the lever shaft on this one is threaded M8 1.25 (metric). That's definitely narrow enough to fit into the 1/2" thread inside the chuck.

I came just 'cause I was thinking if you were getting impatient about the delivery time of the chuck you ordered, I think you could get a different (but still cheap) 1/2" chuck on Amazon with Prime and get it lickety split. This is the one I got, but it appears to be out now. :(
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LDSSNP2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This one looks like it might also work:
https://www.amazon.com/Eyech-Keyless-Universal-Replacement-Electric/dp/B078H9N23D/ref=sr_1_26?s=hi&rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1525220991&sr=1-26&keywords=1%2F2+keyless+chuck&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011
Anyway, just a thought. As it turns out, I'm not using the one I bought, because I remembered I had an old . drill of my dad's, and I just took off the chuck and am using that one.

For epoxying the nut to the chuck, I ended up buying Original JB Weld at the local Home Depot, simply because it was the strongest they had. I haven't tried it yet.

Speaking of the nut, I held up my M8 1.25 nut to the chuck, right where the guy showed he epoxied his, and wow, there's just a tiny TINY about of metal-to-metal contact available there. I'm starting to think about how difficult it will be to get that nut on there centred, and how well it will stay. As a possible solution, I bought some flanged nuts of the right size, in hopes they'll provide more surface area for the epoxy. I went to two stores in my area, and they didn't have a bunch of metric hardware, so I just ordered these on Amazon. Fingers crossed.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077HSXHPV/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm now wondering how to get a threaded shaft that screws into both the lever and the nut. The lever assembly I got just has a bolt screwed into the end, so threaded one end and a hex cap on the other end. What I really need is a threaded rod. What I might do is just get a M8 1.25 bolt and hacksaw the cap off. There's a big fingers crossed moment.

Hope your build is going well! Thanks again for this great post!

Makita has one at Home Depot for 20$.

https://www.amazon.com/Makita-763198-1-Keyless-Chuck/dp/B000O3I5GY

I also bought a big Bosch one for an sds for drilling big nasty holes in steel boxes.

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-1618571014-SDS-plus-Shank-Integral/dp/B0009H5RFM

[Wera 1/4 socket to hex adapter] (https://www.amazon.com/Wera-Female-Square-Quick-Release-Adaptor/dp/B003KN3FU6/)

Since it isn't my money, i'd recommend a msc - Gerardi Standard over a Kurt vise. Well out of the price range buy it's got European design slathered all over it.


Albrecht drill chuck. Highest quality drill chuck and German made too. Go with an integrated R8 for best runout accuracy. Amazon - Albrecht 1/2 capacity R8 / Amazon - Albrecht 5/8 capacity R8

Bottle of blue/red dykem.

Gauge Block and gauge Pin set. Amazon - Gauge Pin set of 3 (.011-.06)(.061-.125)(.126-.500)

Dial Bore gauge set. Amazon has smaller range sets for cheaper as well.
Amazon - Mitutoyo .7-6" range bore dial gauge set

1-4" set of micrometers. I personally prefer Amazon - Brown and Sharpe Micrometer set 1-3". it's out of stock atm and actually I bought all of them individually.

Rotary indexer.

This is probably not what your looking for but This Old Tony swapped the original chuck on his M18 for an aftermarket one that works better for what he does.

Here's the video, the drill starts about 1:00 : https://youtu.be/PMv0noH_j4k

And here's the link to said chuck: Superior Electric ST13B 1/2" Keyless Drill Chuck 1/2"-20 UNF Mount https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Z2O4CK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_p0nTDbJJB0WZ6