(Part 2) Best power generators & accessories according to redditors

Jump to the top 20

We found 1,448 Reddit comments discussing the best power generators & accessories. We ranked the 570 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.

Next page

Subcategories:

Outdoor generator accessories
Outdoor generators

Top Reddit comments about Outdoor Generators & Portable Power:

u/LRDV8R · 40 pointsr/discgolf

I just plug my surround sound into this so I can roll it around the course:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001BMDFPS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4CFQybMH88Y8M

Also a food place to store your bag, way more convenient than a Zuca Cart.

u/ShakeproofLA · 39 pointsr/LosAngeles

Hi, I run a business called ShakeproofLA and what I do is set people up to get ready for The Big One.

To set the stage, you have to understand that Los Angeles has, historically, had a major earthquake every 100 years, but right now we haven't a big one since 1857 when a 7.9 struck Fort Tejon.
So, add that extra 60 years to the amount of tectonic pressure that will be released when it finally does happen.

Now, what I'm going to say will scare the shit out of people, but here it is: When the next major quake hits LA it will be a major, major catastrophe. Thousands of people will die and the damage will be counted in the tens, if not hundreds of billions of dollars.

The water mains will break. The highways will crumble. The gas lines will erupt and fires will break out all over the place. It's estimated, worst case scenario, that 1/3 of the city will burn down, partially due to the broken water mains. If the earthquake is during a heatwave, those problems will be compounded.

The dust and smoke and pollutants (asbestos, etc) thrown up by the quake will cause further health problems down the line as well.

Downtown, all the glass in the buildings will break and fall. Except glass doesn't fall straight down, it floats down like a leaf, meaning that it will be thousands of razor blades slicing across the street. The fire department thinks there will be up to 10 feet of broken glass in the streets afterwards. Moreover, some 1/3 of the buildings in downtown could collapse, including many of the skyscrapers which were build using flawed construction techniques, during the 60's and 70's and 80's. Many of those same buildings are packed with asbestos, much like the World Trade center.

Scary AF, right? Well, I have a motto: "It's absolutely going to happen, so don't worry." All you can do it get prepared.

As the freeways will be out, there's basically going to be no leaving town. More likely than not, you will have to shelter in place. That being the case, you will need supplies.

Here's a list of ABSOLUTE NECESSITIES for you to have on hand. It's only a few hundred bucks and it very well could be the difference between life and death.

What I have listed are only suggestions and I'm not endorsing any particular brand over another. If you find something that does the same job for cheaper, great.

Food
Have at least 2 weeks supply of food above and beyond what is kept in the freezer and/or pantry. Below are some options, but feel free to search around and find the best price/amount for you and your family

Food Option 1
Food Option 2
Food Option 3

Radios
Emergency Radios are a must-have and the wind-up type, with a flashlight cover multiple bases at once.
Radio Option 1
Radio Option 2


Water
These jugs are available at any local Home Depot and will last for 5 years in storage. Do not store on concrete floors at it will leech, instead store on wood, cardboard or carpet only. You want one jug per person per week. Additionally, if you have a hot water heater, wait until it cools and use that. Be aware that the first water that comes out will be mostly mineral silt, so be sure to run it through a coffee filter.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/5-Gal-Water-No-Exchange-Initial-Purchase-5GALIP2/205227468

The Lifestraw allows you to drink any gross water you find.
Lifestraw

If you have an outdoor grill, great. That's your cooking platform. Make sure you have extra propane. If not, get a camp stove.
Camp Stove 1

Propane -
To be sourced locally.

Honey Buckets
You're going to need a place to poop, right? Get a honey bucket, or get hepatitis. Your choice.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079GFLVLM/ref=twister_B079C4GN4M?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/LEAKTITE-B5GSKD-5GAL-Black-Plastic/dp/B000VBW17S/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1529963064&sr=8-3&keywords=5+gallon+bucket

https://www.amazon.com/Besli-Gallon-DrawString-Strong-Garbage/dp/B075ST2KJ9/ref=sr_1_4_s_it?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1529963592&sr=1-4&keywords=5%2Bgallon%2Bgarbage%2Bbags&th=1

First Aid Kit

DUST MASKS
I can't emphasize enough for people to buy these. N95 is the standard you want, as it will filter most pollutants. Buy these and don't get mesothelioma later in life.

Towelettes

Power Station

And the list continues. Have a car kit ready, consisting of water (I like VOSS water, as it's in glass, a couple Clif bars, a hat, sunblock, and old pair of walking sneakers and a space blanket. And dust masks. Don't forget those.

Fill out a FEMA Emergency Plan. and you'll really know where to go and who to contact in an emergency.

And that's the basics. Two weeks of survival supplies and FEMA will be on the scene, hopefully and roads will be open enough to get out of dodge.

Another good idea is to strap your furniture and TV to the walls, into the studs. I'd provide a guide, but that's my job, y'all.

u/StillPlaysWithSwords · 13 pointsr/CPAP

A battery does not have to be special built just for a CPAP, any battery that provides 12-volts DC will work (which is the same type of power your car battery provides). CPAP specific batteries are a scam. You just need to get the right DC power cord for your machine and hook it up to any 12-volt battery.

Now how many days will you need, and does your battery need to power anything else? Do you need it small enough to be legal to fly with (limit is 100wh (watt-hours) or 160wh depending on your airline).

The smallest and cheapest solution is the Easyacc Portable Power Bank 38000mah rated 144wh and costs $81. It is the size of medium paperback book and about 2lb. It has a built in cigarette outlet, usb ports, and a built in white light plus flashing red emergency light. Using my Dreamstation (without humidifier) it has enough power to give me approx 4.5 8-hour nights. Best of all, it's still under the 160wh limit the FAA has so it's legal to fly. It is also about 50% more capacity of a CPAP specific battery which are typically only 99wh.

Going larger you have the Renogy 222WH Laptop Power Bank or it's bigger brother the 266wh

If you need a built in inverter so you can get normal 120-v AC power (which will drain your battery quickly) something like the Jackery Portable Power Station Explorer 240, or Jackery Portable Power Station Explorer 500

There is also countless other chinese knockoff style power banks available. Most of them will be perfectly The only thing I would stay away from is anything that looks like this because they do not actually have a cigarette outlet (you have to get a barrel to cigarette adapter) and they tend to be actual garbage systems.

The gold standard for battery systems is the Goal Zero Yeti 400 Lithium Portable Power. I happen to also own this and it provides me with enough power for over 11 nights of power on my CPAP and still wasn't completely drained. It also comes in larger sizes. It is the most expensive option but the best designed. Weighs about 11lb, and can be charged pretty much from any solar panel big or small.

Other people will say the best thing to do is buy a lithium mobility scooter battery and build it yourself. Which I feel is only a good answer if you are handy wiring electronics. Some people just want a prebuilt answer.

u/sniggity · 12 pointsr/Humanoidencounters

You need to contact MUFON. TODAY ! file a report so they can get investigators out there. The longer you wait, the quicker any evidence will be disappearing. Check for footprints, disturbed vegetation, broken tree limbs and anything else out of place. I would also contact the former occupants of the home and ask them if they experienced anything unusual while they were there. And get one of these Oh yeah, one more thing.

u/buddboy · 9 pointsr/preppers

oh boy. I suggest you learn a little about the technology before you go make your purchase, because you're sort of barking up a non existent tree.


For example, a lithium ion power station about the size of a car battery would have about 100,000 mah capacity. To charge a battery this large with a "hand crank" you would have to crank for so many hours you would be cranking longer than the expected lifetime of the bearings and gears in that hand crank. The power generated by such hand cranks is something like 2 watts at best. It's really really pitiful, and after 20 minutes your arms are dead. Basically what I am saying is for any gadget that's powered by something larger than a watch battery, the hand crank is seriously useless.


Luckily, there are many products will serve you well, you're just asking the wrong question. For example this 50,000 mah battery bank is much smaller than a car battery and will still charge a cell phone 10+ times easy. Best part is it has high voltage outputs for laptops all the way up to 100v AC for things like lamps. Also it's compatible with solar chargers. And there are many products like this out there. Larger ones can daisy chain with deep cycle lead acid marine batteries for a cheap way to increase capacity.


I'm sure you;ll find something good but forget about hand crank lmfao.

u/RandoM_ChancE · 9 pointsr/collapse

There is such a wide range of options available that it is really hard to recommend something without having some background information. That being said, I use this and would recommend it or a similar (Honda) option. (please excuse the auto starting video... it's fucking annoying, I know).

To explain how I arrived at that decision, and how one would go about picking a generator in general you need to ask yourself a couple questions in order to narrow down your field of options:

  1. What am I going to power?
  2. How much power do (does) ____ devices draw?
  3. What fuel sources are available for the generator?
  4. How much money am I willing to spend?

    Basically, home and small business generators break down into two catagories: portable (such as this and this) and standby (such as this and this). The main difference between the two is pretty obvious: stanby generators are designed to be installed permanently in one location and wired directly into a control panel, while portable generators can be carried/wheeled around and have loads plugged directly into them. (sorry if this all seems really elementary... not really sure of your familiarity with the subject).

    The other main difference between portable and standby is what type of fuel they use and how that fuel is delivered to the engine. Generally speaking, standby generators are usually plumbed into a natural gas line that feeds your house (if you have natural gas) or a line from a (generally large, fixed location) propane tank. Pros and cons of this type of setup:

    Pros:

  • Virtually limitless supply (NG) as long as you have natural gas service you can run your generator and have electricity

  • Cheap: NG is currently the cheapest and most abundant of fossil fuels, propane is a close second

  • Storage: propane (as long as it is stored properly) is safe, will not leak, does not emit fumes, and does not go bad as quickly as gasoline or diesel.

  • Designed for continuous operation. Most standby generators are able to be left running for extended periods of time before needing serving, and will have an overall longer lifespan than their portable counterparts.

  • Larger alternators: since these gensets are designed for whole house backup, they will have load ratings in the 8,000-20,000 Watt range which is more than enough power to run anything in the average American home (including a 5 ton central A/C)

    cons:

  • Somewhat grid reliant: if the NG gas supply network shuts down, you're pretty much screwed. Also, NG service is generally not available in remote locations. (NB: a local power outage does not mean your NG service will stop. Gas lines are pressurized at various points in the system and almost all compressor stations will have their own backup systems in case of power failure in that area as well).

  • NG Gensets are (generally) more expensive than their LP equivalents... which are in turn more expensive then their gasoline portable alternatives.

    In contrast, portable generators are usually either powered by gasoline or diesel, from smaller tanks mounted on the unit that need to be refilled, typically every 8-12 hours. Additionally, gensets in this category can further be divided into two groups based on their electricity generating technology: Traditional and Inverter. In the Land of the Portable Generator the Honda EU Series Inverter Generator is King. Indisputably, the quietest, sturdiest, most reliable, most fuel efficient, most advanced generator on the market. Seriously. Google and read reviews, I've go two EU2000i generators and they are awesome. The Yamaha EF Series Inverter are probably 99% as good as the Honda EU, and they tend to be a little bit cheaper as a result.


    OK, this is turning into a seriously long post, so TL;DR of why i chose the generator in the first link: it is a Yamaha EF4500iSE fitted with a tri-fuel kit. The Yamaha starts life as gasoline only, but the company I linked to will sell you the generator with a kit that will allow you to select between gasoline, LP and NG fuel. This is the ultimate in versatility and preparedness IMHO. For short duration power outages i simply wheel it outside, disconnect my BBQ (also NG) from the quick-connect and plug in the generator. Because it is only 4500 Watts it won't power the whole house, but I don't need it to. I have my critical loads planned out (fridge, freezer, comm gear, tv, etc) and that is all i need to run. Also, because it is still portable I can take it up to my off-grid cabin in the summer, where I run it off a 40lb LP tank (and then gasoline if the propane tank is empty and I don't feel like going into town and filling it). Lastly, I chose the Yamaha simply because Honda does not have an inverter genset in the 4500W range, otherwise I would have gone with the Honda as I already have a Honda EU2000i (gasoline only)

    I hope this has been some help to you... let me know if you want me to keep going... expanding on the difference between inverter and traditional portable gensets, or you have questions on tying it into your house electrical system, etc.

    DISCLAIMER: I have linked to Central Maine Diesel several times in the post. I am not personally affiliated with this company, but I've corresponded with their representatives both on the phone and via email, and they have been nothing but helpful in providing the information I needed, and helping to guide my decision making process. Also, due to the intricacies of international trade agreements, I was unable to buy a preinstalled tri-fuel generator from them. I ended up purchasing my generator here in Canada, picking up the tri-fuel kit from a receiving company in WA, and installing it myself.
u/OldAssMan · 7 pointsr/ElectricalEngineering

I'm not an EE, but I know a bit about batteries. Low amp is fine, better for overall battery life. But, lead acid batteries get some kind of build up on the cells that needs to be zapped off with high-amperage from time to time. Solar charge controllers and automatic battery tending devices will go through a number of different cycle types throughout a month, for the health of the battery.

Your battery is probably damaged by now if it's been depleted several times. Best thing you could do besides buying a new battery is get some kind of trickle charge setup, so that it stays topped off. Whether it be a wall plug charger, or solar charger.

Secondly, open the battery and make sure that the lead cells are fully submerged. Add distilled water if the cells are exposed to atmosphere. Some car batteries are sealed and not able to be maintained in this way.

**Edit. Check this out, Battery Tender 021-1163 5W Solar Maintainer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004Q83TGO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ypxAyb2SXVHSN

u/Magicmarker2 · 7 pointsr/FireflyFestival

Thank you, didn’t see it.

So honestly, super easy project that anyone could do, I called it diy but it’s 99% just connecting wires. For speakers, I’d recommend scouring craigslist for a set of bookshelf speakers. You should be able to get a good set for under $30. The most important thing to look at is the sensitivity rating and the impedance of the speakers. Sensitivity is essentially how loud the speaker gets with less power running to it. Get the speakers with highest sensitivity (preferably 88+) and a low impedance (4 or 6 ohms if you can) if you want to be lazy, these are a damn good value. You could probably find better on craigslist but if you don’t trust your speaker buying go with that pair.

Next step is the amp. There are two pretty easy options that come immediately to mind. First, the “diy” amp you can go ahead and install this in one of the speakers. Parts express has videos showing you how this could be done. The second option and the one is probably recommend is this as far as I know it’s the same amplifier just this one comes housed, there may be small differences.

The final problem is how to power it, and once again you have options. The two basic options are either off some double a batteries or off of a large lithium ion battery pack. Between these options I’d say just go with the aa batteries for cost and just come down with a whole bunch (hit up Costco or bjs and buy like two packs of them). With the first amplifier you’ll have to buy a seperate battery pack to held them, with the second it actually has a place for the batteries already. Now, the coolest option but more expensive is what I’m hoping to do this year. Your car battery is actually 12V dc, exactly what you need. Therefore you can power the amps off of your car battery, just make the connections when you’re there and leave the wires running out of the hood with some quick disconnects (not necessarily this one but something similar) so that it’s easy to take down and set up every day. If you go with the second amp you will need the correct plug. Now, to ensure you don’t kill your car battery, you’ll need a solar panel, preferably with a with a trickle charger. I believe this is probably the best option. You can go cheaper but this is a well known brand so I trust it not to screw up my cars battery. This can sit on your roof all day if you have a tall car. Still do something to make it an inconvenience to steal. If you have a short car just leave it on while your there and use quick disconnects again to make packing up easy, or run the wires inside the car when your gone and have it charging through a window.

Hopefully this all makes sense, it seems like a hassle but for about $100 you’ll have a damn good sounding festival set up that you could take home and set up in a room and love the sound just as much at home as at the festival- I’m telling you, bookshelf speakers sound soooooo much better than your average Bluetooth speaker, just ask r/audiophile, and it’s a cool conversation piece while there. Anyone has any questions I’m happy to help!

u/Takashi_10 · 6 pointsr/vandwellers

I drilled a hole through one of my vents and sealed it with polyurethane caulking. I don't recommend this option. Its starting to leak already.

Check out these mc4 glands:
http://www.amazon.com/LINKSOLAR-Weatherproof-Plastic-Connector-Campervan/dp/B0111RNZDY/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1456967919&sr=8-1&keywords=solar+gland+roof

u/binocular_gems · 6 pointsr/HomeImprovement

I'd consider looking into the Goal zero Yeti line of portable battery/power stations, which have built in inverters for hooking up to solar.

They can charge up either via the wall or from a solar panel. They're pricey, usually $500+ but you have the flexibility of a standard wall charger or solar out that, so if it's a sunny day and you need to run this all day you can hook it up to solar.

https://www.amazon.com/Goal-Zero-400-Rechargeable-Generator/dp/B06WVDG9BS?ref=ast_p_ep

They range in price from like $200 (low power) up to $2000+ (high power, used in construction applications, can power fridges, etc).

u/loopswoopandpuII · 6 pointsr/vandwellers
u/krustyy · 5 pointsr/vandwellers

Looks like bullshit to me.

  1. No discussion on the technology used on the website. No specs This is a huge red flag. What temperature does the fridge maintain? How long does it maintain that temperature on battery power?
  2. I see no compressor. This means it is likely utilizing a Peltier to do the cooling, which runs at about 10% efficiency (compared to 30% with a compressor which is 3x more efficient) and is incapable of maintaining temperatures of proper refrigeration. It may cool your drinks down to 45-50 degrees, but it will not function for safe fresh food storage.
  3. Those solar panels are going to put out a max of maybe 50W in the heat of the day if you're lucky, probably closer to 20W. And that involves taking your refrigerator and leaving it in the sun, where you will need far more cooling capacity to maintain proper temperatures. That's not enough juice to run a portable compressor powered refrigerator by a third. You'd probably need 6 times as much power to properly cool with a peltier.
  4. Large gaps between the parts will make for leakage and loss in cooling capacity. Combined with thin walls, this thing is not going to be a good insulator.


    You can use a compressor powered, 12VDC portable refrigerator and freezer effectively on the go, but you're going to need some dedicated solar power production. Let's run through some numbers:

    31 liter capacity portable fridge/freezer for $611
    They have a 10.5 liter capacity version for $316 if you need to go really cheap. Reviews say this unit draws an average of about 3.75A, or 45W. For quick math: watts = volts x amps.

  • This will consume 3.75 amps for 24 hours every day, so it consumes 90 amp hours (AH) per day.
  • Lets say for 16 hours per day you need to make sure your fridge runs of of batteries. So 2/3 of that 90AH will come from batteries, resulting in a number of 60AH for battery power
  • I am going to add 50% right back on that 60AH for energy loss and battery efficiency, putting the requirement back at 90AH. We're then rounding this to 100AH since thats the size batteries come in. To run the above refrigerator at 45W all day long on solar/battery power, you will want a 100AH deep cycle or AGM battery
  • Next up, we want to know how much solar power you need to keep this going. This varies by solar panel placement and latitude, but I'm going to say you get a total of 6 hours of prime sun per day. During that 6 hours, you need to be able to charge 100AH of battery. That equates to 16.6 amps per hour. 16.6 amps x 12 volts = 199.2W. To run this system you will need 200W of solar panels on the roof of your van, producing power for you

    As a comparison, you can just how much different an actual refrigeration system is from the portable unit linked above. Looking at the pricing and weights further shows just how far off this system is from being able to actually safely refrigerate your food.

  • 100AH battery for $179 (weighs 63lbs)
  • 31 liter capacity portable fridge/freezer for $611 (weighs 30lbs)
  • 30A charge controller for $30 (weights maybe 1lb)
  • 2x 100W solar panels for $277 (weights 33lb)

    In total, This is $1100 in hardware and 127lbs of equipment to be able to properly maintain cold food storage. The thing you linked is a backpack sized beverage cooler only.
u/Underoo · 4 pointsr/amateurradio

For solar, buy anything that is Renogy brand. VERY nice stuff and well respected.

Here's the panel I use:

https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Watts-Volts-Monocrystalline-Solar/dp/B00DVPPFDS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484425808&sr=8-1&keywords=renogy+50+watt+panel

And the crappy PWM controller. Bought it because it was cheap. You really want an MPPT controller, but they're expensive and bulky. You can google around for the what and why, but this works for me.

https://www.amazon.com/Docooler-Controller-Battery-Regulator-Protection/dp/B00L37KZI6/ref=sr_1_2?s=exercise-and-fitness&ie=UTF8&qid=1484425831&sr=8-2&keywords=solar+charge+controller

I have a box full of these things though!
https://www.amazon.com/RENOGY-High-Precision-Meter-Power-Analyzer/dp/B00PSQPSWQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1484425929&sr=8-2&keywords=renogy+meter

Great to know what's coming from the panel, and coming out of your charge controller to the batter... or how much you're pulling OUT of the battery. 3 is ideal but if I'm out overlanding or camping, I wont use any of them. They're helpful and fun when you're setting up your kit.

u/StolidSentinel · 4 pointsr/vandwellers

Super cut a hole, and super be done with it. They have super glands for this. They are super.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0111RNZDY/

EDIT: Super!

u/pbostley · 4 pointsr/solar

These are easy to set up.

Battery Tender 021-1163 5W Solar Maintainer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004Q83TGO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_n0.pzbQQMHT2C

u/swiftcock · 3 pointsr/vandwellers

This is the things that I wrote for another guy, and since I already have it typed I'm just pasting it here. Since it's such a small battery my idea (155Ah) is to charge it with my alternator.

 

  • Battery
  • Isolator
  • Inverter
  • This Accesory
  • And this cables with this fuse.

    I would use that accessory to plug stuff that use 12v like cellphone charger,fans etc. It's best to run things directly from the 12v DC instead of converting it to AC and then again converting it to DC.

    Those cables are over-kill, but that's what I would buy because they are not that expensive and it doesn't hurt.


     


    This is how I would connect everything. It totals around $475 US.
u/ThePunchList · 3 pointsr/OffGrid

Thanks for the quick response. This was the Yeti I was looking at and here's the EcoFlow. I think their new generations are all LIB.

My current generator has been this inexpensive gas Sportsman. I usually don't even fire it up until evening and I rarely run through more than 3/4 of a tank of gas a night. It works perfectly except the noise.

My goal was to have something simple I could just plug into the 110V wiring and power the lights and maybe run the TV for a couple hours a night. The cabin is all windows so light during the day isn't needed.

I was more concerned that there is so much wire running through the cabin the power source would drain pretty rapidly due to the length and diameter of the internal wiring. The above comments make it sound like that would likely not be an issue.



u/SWaspMale · 3 pointsr/Electricity

Maybe something like this

u/bobz72 · 3 pointsr/askscience

I find it hard to believe that a dynamo that produces much more than 6 Watts isn't realistic. If I ride at 200 watts (which for a fit cyclist is sustainable for long periods of time), that would only be 3% of my output converted, if I ride at 100 watts (should be sustainable for many people) that's still only 6%. What would a diesel driven generator get?

Edit: Found a more powerful dynamo here https://www.amazon.com/MNS-Power-Bicycle-Generator-Dynamo/dp/B003GJL6GO

u/Taurik · 3 pointsr/Cartalk

I've been very happy with the Battery Tender brand. I have a friend who uses this on his boat (it's designed not to overchage).

http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-1163-Solar-Maintainer/dp/B004Q83TGO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416250584&sr=8-1&keywords=battery+tender+solar

We use a traditional (plug in) tender on my wife's car. A fairly common setup is to permanently connect the terminals to the battery and then run the leads somewhere more convenient, like out the grill or fender. It makes connecting/disconnecting a lot more convenient.

http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=pd_bxgy_auto_text_z

u/dnorm00 · 3 pointsr/boostedscooters

That model is likely overkill to charge ~50%...sounds like you really only need a small top up (20% or so) to get you back home under power:

This one would almost certainly get you what you need to get home under power:

https://www.amazon.com/Portable-Jackery-PowerBar-Universal-Compatible/dp/B07F119R6P/ref=sr_1_13?keywords=portable+laptop+ac+battery+charger&qid=1571105532&sr=8-13

I suspect this would get you 15-20% increase in charge over what you pulled in from your commute with.

if you wanted to go with one of the hefty jackery ones, this one would likely get you 60% from 0 or more charge into the battery of the rev (67k mah):

https://www.amazon.com/Jackery-Portable-Power-Station-Generator/dp/B07D29QNMJ/ref=pd_bxgy_86_img_3/136-2471141-6721145?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07D29QNMJ&pd_rd_r=5a05793c-d5db-4525-bb61-cb980e68e1a8&pd_rd_w=zT417&pd_rd_wg=jYB1X&pf_rd_p=09627863-9889-4290-b90a-5e9f86682449&pf_rd_r=3XT0KTAE3RDV0FDAV2RY&psc=1&refRID=3XT0KTAE3RDV0FDAV2RY

no need to spend 425 USD.

PS: this one is crazy cheap and would likely charge you to at least 60% from 0 (great reviews to boot) - at 64.8k mah slightly less mah than Jackery hefty one, but nearly identical spec wise, and much cheaper:

https://www.amazon.com/Rockpals-250-Watt-Generator-Rechargeable-Emergency/dp/B075SSMR6K/ref=pd_cp_86_4/136-2471141-6721145?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B075SSMR6K&pd_rd_r=44eeb9b7-24bb-43b9-8c6a-26adef14b6cb&pd_rd_w=YNe82&pd_rd_wg=nhtvD&pf_rd_p=0e5324e1-c848-4872-bbd5-5be6baedf80e&pf_rd_r=WCZPCS731EJZM70705MS&psc=1&refRID=WCZPCS731EJZM70705MS

I may even give that a go for the price!

Source: I own this one and it charges my rev from 50% to about 95% (42k mah, while the two bigger guys above are around ~65k mah):

https://www.amazon.com/Portable-Outlet-Battery-Pack-ChargeTech/dp/B06Y3NF7N2/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=chargetech+42000&qid=1571106042&s=electronics&sr=1-1

I can't recommend the one that I own...had some issues with it.

u/traveler19395 · 3 pointsr/solar

You need to stay within the amperage limitations of your wiring and charge controller.

For instance, this is a good charge controller that can do 75v and 15 amps, so in theory you would think it could do 1125 watts. But that's not the way it works. You need to keep peak voltage and amperage under 100/15, and load voltage and amperage will be a good bit less.

You could run three 300w panels like this in parallel with a charge controller that can handle 40v 30 amps, or you could run the same panels in series with a charge controller that can handle 120v 10 amps. The wiring needs to handle the amperage, so much smaller wiring would be needed for the latter.

If you did more, smaller panels, like six 150w panels, you could do a series/parallel combination for something like 80v at 15-20 amps. That would go very nicely with this charge controller.

And then there's the decision of how likely you are to want to expand the system and if you should buy equipment that can handle more panels.

Create a short list of your preferred charge controllers and their capacities, then start shopping for panels and do the quick math. If the panels were the same dollar-per-watt I would probably do six 150w in series/parallel with the controller I mentioned above. If you think it's likely you may expand capacity, I would go with three 300w panels in parallel with this controller, then you could add 6 more of the same (2700w total) in series/parallel without changing your charge controller or wiring.

u/KaBar2 · 3 pointsr/vandwellers

I was concerned about drilling any holes in my roof. Being a born pessimist, I figured if anything can go wrong, it will go wrong. The fewer holes in my roof the better.

I started looking for a roof rack. What I really wanted was a full-length roof rack with a diamond-pattern, "hardware cloth" platform surface upon which to mount my solar panels. All the racks I could find were around $600. Getting a rack custom built was estimated at $1300. Too much.

I finally found a very heavy-duty-looking rack made of black-painted round tubing for $311. "That's more like it," I thought. I ordered it off the internet.

When it arrived, I was annoyed to see that all the parts weren't there. Two long side panels seemed to be missing. I called the vendor, and after a very confusing conversation, it turned out that I had only ordered "half" the rack. The other part number was the side panels. Guess how much they cost? $300. ($611 for the whole rack. Dammit.)

Once I got the whole rack at my house, and started trying to install it, I realized that it's a two-or-three-man job. I finally got it installed, but Lord, what a pain in the ass!

I bolted a piece of 4x8 plywood to the rack tubing using large U-bolts. The PV panels bolt to the plywood.

I feel pretty sure that bolting the panels directly through the roof would work just as well, maybe better.

A really good book that describes solar panel installation is "Photovoltaic Design & Installation for Dummies" by Ryan Mayfield. He is the president of the Renewable Energy Associates solar power company.

A solid wire is called a "wire." A bundle of wires together covered with plastic insulation is called a "cable." You want cables of at least 6 gauge diameter. (The smaller the gauge number, the larger the cable. I know, it seems backwards.) A lot of solar power kits come with 8 gauge or even 10 gauge cable. TOO SMALL. Cable this small is inefficient for DC current, for our purposes.

You will need a "cable gland" (Amazon) and a good quantity of "Dicor self-sealing lap sealant." (Amazon). Be generous with the Dicor. Every time a cable goes through a steel bulkhead or floor you MUST put a grommet of some kind (rubber, plastic) there to protect the cable insulation. If you ground out a positive cable, it could cause a fire. Ground the negative (black) cable of the system TO THE VEHICLE'S FRAME, directly to clean steel (NOT PAINTED STEEL), through the floor. Bolt the ground cable connection securely to the frame. Don't forget the grommet.

https://www.amazon.com/Link-Solar-Weatherproof-Project-Campervan/dp/B0111RNZDY/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1506480381&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=double+cable+gland&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Scosche-WPG8-10-Gauge-Waterproof-Grommets/dp/B00OYGLP32/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1506480517&sr=8-12&keywords=8+gauge+cable+grommet

https://www.amazon.com/Auto-ranging-Multimeter-Resistance-Capacitance-Frequency/dp/B01N014USE/ref=sr_1_14_sspa?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1506480598&sr=1-14-spons&keywords=clamp+style+multimeter&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NWGZ4XC/ref=dp_cerb_2

Always use BLACK cable for the negative (ground) side of the circuit and RED cable for the positive side. This will prevent you from screwing up and short-circuiting your system. Hopefully.

Do not hook up the PV panels until everything else is installed and you have tested it for continuity with a digital multimeter (DMM.) The kind that has a "clamp", automatic ranging, and an audible alarm is best. (It looks kind of like a lobster claw and doesn't necessitate puncturing the insulation of the cables.) You start wiring from the storage battery bank and work backwards to the PV panels. Keep in mind--if those panels are exposed to the sun, they are GENERATING ELECTRICAL CURRENT POTENTIAL. Cover them with cardboard or heavy paper and tape until you are ready to energize the system. You don't want to get electrocuted accidentally. The risk of shock is small, but it does exist.

You need either a fuse (good) or a DC breaker (better) between the positive cable between the PV panels and the charge controller, and also between the charge controller and the battery bank. If you install an inverter, you need a breaker on the positive cable between the battery bank and the inverter. (Inverters burn amps just sitting there hooked up. You need to be able to "turn off" the DC power supply to the inverter. Turn the power to the inverter back on to use it.)

https://www.amazon.com/MidNite-Solar-Photovoltaic-Circuit-Breaker/dp/B004EQK8SA/ref=sr_1_7?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1506481155&sr=1-7&keywords=DC+breaker

Try to make the cable runs as short and direct as possible, within reason. The longer the cable run, the more resistance and the more voltage drop. All cables should be secured to the bulkhead with cable clamps in a neat, tidy, workmanlike fashion. If it's worth doing, it's worth doing correctly.

u/PicklesCx · 3 pointsr/AsianAndy

I recommend he buy an Goal Zero Yeti portable battery and a 12v kettle for his MRE's. He can use the Yeti to run the kettle and charge everything at once as it has USB's and a wall outlet 110v and a 12v car outlet. It even has a solar panel input you can plug a solar panel into. https://www.amazon.com/Goal-Zero-400-Rechargeable-Generator/dp/B06WVDG9BS

Here is a 12v kettle he can use so it takes less electricity than a regular one.

https://www.amazon.com/ALEKO-CARKT12V-Portable-Electric-Appliance/dp/B01NAPVLFI/

u/stfundance · 3 pointsr/boostedboards
u/BasicBrewing · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

I just did this a few months back (same issue with the well pump). Was originally planning on hiring an electrician to do it, but after a few youtube videos, realized I could do it myself. Very simple - hardest part was figuring out which circuits I wanted to include and wrestling 10-3 UF-B wire. The electrical part was easy.

First question you got to figure out is what kind of switch you are going to use. If you have some free breaker space in your panel, you can get an interlock switch. This is the cheapest way to go and you could power your whole house with this method (if you generator is up to it). Downside is you have to be careful about balancing your loads.

I didn't have any space in my panel so got one of these badboys. Super easy to set up and use. Lets you choose up to 10 circuits that you want to be run off the generator. It includes a bunch of documentation on how to calcualte and balance loads for your generator to decide which side you hook each ciruit up to. Also nice because when the pwoer comes back on, you will know. I very highly recommend this box and company. Great instructions and customer support, very easy to install. Seems like really solid hardware, too. They sell these at the Lowes near me in case you can't wait for amazon shipping.

In either case, I also highly recommend the remote L14-30 input box (its included in the kit that I linked to). Have it mounted somewhere outside you house where the generator will be running. You can run the aforementioned 10-3 UF-B cable out to it. Its a lot cheaper than buying a super long equivalent extension cord to get the generator a safe distance away from your home, and you also don't have to wrestle that same cord every time you need the generator (those things are heavy AF and the last thing you want to deal with in the cold/dark/rain/snow/wet/wind that is happening when you lose power).

u/675triumphtriple · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

I got a reliance. I like it. Very easy to install and comes with a video.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HS2L3O/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/H3M_Smite · 2 pointsr/videosurveillance

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0787SHJ21/?coliid=I2MUNFYRTF4Q0G&colid=28S5YKBYJ9YPX&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it Would this be a viable option? It looks pretty sturdy and appears to do all the functions I would need it do? I just don't feel comfortable enough to do a DYI bank.

u/brax_1 · 2 pointsr/MSILaptops

Never mind, I found one on Amazon. I can't take it on a plane, but will be great for camping.

Portable AC Power Bank, 300Watts 220Wh Pure SineWave Power Inverter, Mini Generator, Power Charger, External Battery Packs with 110V AC Outlet, 12V DC USB for Camping, Traveling, Emergency Backup
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0787SHJ21/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1W2yDb17PCMS1

u/eve-dude · 2 pointsr/OmniCharge

I would look at something like this Renogy 50w Mono Panel if you want a fixed panel. It's over the max that an OmniCharge will take, but that gives you overhead for non-ideal conditions and the OmniCharge won't eat more than it can take.

I'm looking at that panel for myself.



u/theoryface · 2 pointsr/vandwellers

Yeah, I thought anyone interested in the thread would be! But as soon as I posted the original version with amazon links, it was auto-deleted. Weird.

Oh well, here are my products:

Solar panel: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017OMTAV6/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3NTUA0DGQ65YX&coliid=I2R53I6ASRE7TH&psc=1

Charge controller: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JMLPP12/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3NTUA0DGQ65YX&coliid=IMF9F8IHLJ6EN&psc=1

House battery: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/SSBQ/3478PLT/03321.oap?year=1967&make=Ford&model=Mustang&vi=1332302&ck=Search_03321_1332302_-1&pt=03321&ppt=C0005

Battery isolator: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0058SGDFK/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3NTUA0DGQ65YX&coliid=I2UYT4LFVI14AN

Van fan: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002OWAIB8/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3NTUA0DGQ65YX&coliid=I1Q9S1UN7Z94H7&psc=1

LED lights: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007JF2A6G/ref=od_aui_detailpages02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Fuse block: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000K2MBPA/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3NTUA0DGQ65YX&coliid=IK1ERB55YT6QX&psc=1

Busbar: https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-MiniBus-Grounding-Terminal/dp/B0058GA4IO/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1467345205&sr=8-11&keywords=6+terminal+bus

Main line fuses (inline): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WZHE3A4/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3NTUA0DGQ65YX&coliid=ICS8GYAQNUJV1&psc=1

u/_Bombies · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-PPRH5B-Professional-Station/dp/B00BR1TO80/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1464974449&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=power+station

Maybe something along the lines of one of these guys in case you needed to jump start your car/ plug your batteries into on the battery charger (unless all your mods have built in batteries and are using a portable charger to recharge them)

u/cr0ft · 2 pointsr/vandwellers

Seems to me priority one would be to put a functioning engine in there, not go buying solar stuff! :)

An old Blazer shouldn't be hard to work on, relatively speaking, so wild ass guess time, a thousand buck in labor time and then you need the engine; a used one isn't much. But since you can buy a new shitbox van from the 90s for similar money... maybe not worth it, unless you've really built that out and would rather not do that again.

The car battery will drain quite rapidly if it's not being charged by an alternator. And as soon as it hits less than 100% charge, it will start sulfating. The lower the charge, the worse the sulfation. Trying to use it as a power source without filling it up daily from an alternator (ie the running engine) will kill the battery in days or weeks (on the outside).

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZXYVG4G or https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075SSMR6K or something like that would no doubt work to keep you powered. Take it to work and plug it in somewhere discreetly in the morning. There are smaller units that are a bit less. Lithium packs are very different from lead-acid starter batteries.

u/martinvandepas · 2 pointsr/vandwellers

I was thinking about geting the flexible ones glued directly onto the roof. It's almost twice as expensive though. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07195WHHX/ref=psdc_2236628011_t1_B017OMTAV6

u/Divinitous · 2 pointsr/Ultralight

It's not ultralight but I picked this up to power my Phillips respirpnics without the humidifier. Gives me about 5-6 days of use @ pressure of 12. Can also charge cell phones and has an really good flashlight.

We do lots of canoe camping up in the Adirondacks.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XBPQKTR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_b0NCDbK9PYCCS

u/Athlex · 2 pointsr/thinkpad

Pretty sure the Workstation dock is needed for Lenovo's proprietary dual-tip dock connector. It's necessary for the P72 because it combines Thunderbolt (via USB-C) and the 170W/230W charger (via the "slim tip" plug) since Thunderbolt maxes out at 100W. You could probably use another brand of Thunderbolt dock alongside the Lenovo charger, but that wouldn't save you much $.

I'm not aware of any power banks that can provide the kind of juice a machine like that needs. There are some that have an AC power outlet, but most are <100W or huge. For example, this one can put out 300W on battery power, but it weighs a little over 5 pounds.

As suggested elsewhere, you might consider getting a small machine for notetaking in class. I recently picked up a Thinkpad 11e and it's a nice machine that can do the basics and is totally decent running Linux or Win10 (despite its lack of Trackpoint). I've seen decent ones turn up on eBay for <$75 pretty regularly.

u/random_29 · 2 pointsr/howto

You should be fine. Just be sure to turn off all breakers that you don’t need. The interlock I plan on installing soon includes wire that I can fasten directly to my intended breaker.

Interlock

u/mo_jo · 2 pointsr/solar

I've never used them, but Flycrates says they will ship to places that Amazon sellers won't. According to this page, the main problems are extra shipping costs, customs forms, and import duties that have to be paid. Flycrates will supposedly do that for you and let you know what import duties will need to be paid up front.

AllPowers makes a flexible 100w solar panel that sells on Amazon, and there are other companies that also sell flexible panels.

I purchased an AllPowers flexible+foldable 80w solar charger panel and a Suaoki 150Wh Solar Generator (lithium battery+inverter) for camping, and it's worked well. It will run a few lights and power a laptop. I did have to custom-make the connector cable between them to charge the Suaoki, however.

Hope that helps!

u/tornadoRadar · 2 pointsr/electricians

I picked: Model MB7420 motorola for an example.

power draw: 12v @ 1a. 12 watts.

12v supply is really REALLY nice for the next thing i'm going to suggest: solar and a battery.


https://www.amazon.com/MOTOROLA-MB7621-Approved-Spectrum-Downloads/dp/B077BL65HS/


26 bucks for a charge controller:
https://www.amazon.com/HQST-Regulator-Charge-Controller-Display/dp/B00FB3OPKM/

46$: a 20 amp hour battery will be more than enough to get your thru the night. if you're concerned about cloudly days then you can double it up.
https://www.amazon.com/Chrome-Battery-12V-20AH-T3/dp/B00BW3ULZI/

130 bucks for a 100watt solar panel
https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Watts-Volts-Monocrystalline-Solar/dp/B009Z6CW7O/

figure 20-30 bucks in wiring and mounts and random stuff.

total cost to power it: 200-250$.




u/eosha · 2 pointsr/howto
  1. Get one that can handle the maximum power you're generating with some wiggle room. That is, if you've got a 1kW generator, I'd get at least a 1.2kW controller.

  2. Hookups are straightforward. Positive and negative from the generator into the controller, another positive and negative from the controller to the battery, another positive and negative from the controller to the load. Should all be labeled on the controller.

    Here's one that's fairly simple and popular.
u/kardall · 2 pointsr/DIY

... You realize that you can get a gas generator for $400 that will do all of that right?

This one allows for a 3500w continuous draw: http://www.amazon.com/DuroMax-XP4400E-Portable-Generator-Electric/dp/B001BMDFPS/ref=pd_ts_zgc_lg_348967011_1?ie=UTF8&s=lawn-garden&pf_rd_p=1365061542&pf_rd_s=right-4&pf_rd_t=1401&pf_rd_i=1000422531&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0TT67CD9JHVWYS44ZR2P

I mean ya, you could build something yourself, but if you're buying a battery that's probably 80-100 anyway. Redoing all your wiring I have no idea, but it might save you in the long run.

u/mechanicalhorizon · 2 pointsr/homeless

I use a Black and Decker portable battery with an electric blanket when it gets really cold out.

On the low setting, which usually if just fine, it can last about 4 hours. On high about 2 hours.

LINK

When I need to charge it I would bring it to the library and plug it in, or to work. The only bad part is that it can take 4-6 hours to get it back up to a full charge.

u/TheCodriver · 2 pointsr/pelletgrills

Yes. Jackery has solutions for this that people have posted great results with. both 12v and 110v capable, both are commonly used for pellet grills while camping/traveling.

Jackery Explorer 240

Jackery Explorer 500

u/creekyoffgrid · 2 pointsr/solar

I really like the new Victrons. Blazing fast mppt. And you can add bluetooth monitoring/programming. Which is really nice.
v75/15

u/CDXX_enthusiast · 2 pointsr/ElectricForest
u/RounderKatt · 2 pointsr/BurningMan

I have a 100w renology panel and this charge controller. They fed into a 100AH deep cycle battery from costco and kept my swamp cooler, cell phone charger, and LED lighting running all week last year.

You need to use a deep cycle or marine battery as they are designed to be run down lower and more often. As for wire, the panel has a short cable so I bought an extension and wired that directly to the controller. I believe I used 12 gauge solid core wire for the connection from the controller to the battery. all ,my stuff connects straight to the battery, however I want to add a terminal bank to make it easier.

u/n17ikh · 2 pointsr/GoRVing

I have a cheap Renogy charge controller and a 50W panel. If you're into DIY that might be the way to go. 50W isn't a lot of panel, but it might work if you keep the loads down.

u/lostsheik · 2 pointsr/solar

I have just put together a system for a remote barn on my property. It may be overkill for what you are trying to accomplish, but thought it might help.

u/freedmtrain · 2 pointsr/limejuicer

Thanks for the feedback.

I was thinking something more like this...

Amazon.com Portable Generator

I am no electrician, so I’m not super familiar with the conversions and such.

u/scooterscot · 1 pointr/vandwelling

I used two of these guys:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DDYM1UC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_TpCJAb5SDC8P4

It’s been more than enough for my needs. FYI - /r/vandwellers is more active than this sub. My favorite place for van info is the forum on cheaprvliving.com

u/coniferous-1 · 1 pointr/SolarDIY

I will say that if you DO spring to buy lithium batteries, you get more wiggle room about draining your batteries. If you get to 0% they just turn off, so it's much easier to buy two and then say "nope, they aren't enough" and then just pop another one in.

Also, you mentioned that you don't have enough space on the roof for panels - have you looked into the flexible ones? Something like this. https://www.amazon.ca/ALLPOWERS-Lightweight-Flexible-Connector-Compatibility/dp/B07195WHHX/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=flexible+solar&qid=1563121815&s=gateway&sr=8-1

200w I don't think is quite enough, but 300 is getting there.

u/brcfire · 1 pointr/BurningMan

Love Renology panels. Just ordered a 2x 50w since the 100w is a bit tough to store after the burn. This charge controller came today for testing. I like the addition of USB as all my lighting is now wired for USB battery packs and USB on the charge controller provides easy recharging.

u/DuQEtc · 1 pointr/VanLife

Also, I've been able to run fans, charge my phone and laptop, etc so I know that my solar system IS working and keeping my batteries topped off (because I can see on my windynation controller https://www.amazon.com/WindyNation-Regulator-Controller-Adjustable-Settings/dp/B00JMLPP12/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=windynation+controller&qid=1565557593&s=gateway&sr=8-1 )

u/doopdoop16 · 1 pointr/vandwellers

I'd like to attach a large 100w panel with suction cups to the windshield. Then I hope to further secure it by wedging the sunshade behind it. I won't be too worried about "stealth" as I usually won't be in the car when I have that in. Plus, I'll just look like an LA environmentalist in a Prius.

Solar panels are my problem. I figure I'll need something like 100 watts to make up for the sub-optimal charging through the windshield.

The problem with that is 100 watts is too big to easily place in the passenger seat. I need a folding unregulated 100 watt panel. And it has to be a lightweight panel.

This is the only one I could find in the entire world. It folds in half to the size of a 50w panel.

Unfortunately, it has shipping times of 4-6 weeks to the US. Also, it doesn't have those holes in the corners which would come in hand for attaching the panel to the windshield with suction cups. Maybe there is some way to devise them...

The only other folding 100 watt panels seems to be $100 more, but too long—when expanded—to fit in the dash.

I suppose I could get away with a 50 watt panel, but I'll probably end up being annoyed I didn't get a 100 watt panel on those days when I could use the power.

u/Styleisgolden · 1 pointr/HomeImprovment

Maybe this one would help you out?

u/techdude154 · 1 pointr/diytryin

You would want a charge controller. A charge controller basically manages te solar power going to your battery so it doesn't overcharge it. They can be as cheap as $30

u/energy_engineer · 1 pointr/engineering

What current (or power if that's more handy) rating do you need?

Number 1 best seller on Amazon.

You did specify 30V - is that the actual voltage you need or did you round up? A 36 cell solar module is fairly common - you'll have an open circuit voltage of about 22V in that configuration, less after the panel heats up.

Second best seller on Amazon.Its becoming more common to claim "12V panel" as a way of saying "panels intended to charge 12V batteries" - it has nothing to do with the actual open circuit voltage of the panel.


To be honest, if you can't easily get replacements, I wouldn't go cheap on this component.

u/gordogg24p · 1 pointr/LonghornNation

Anyone have any experience with this brand of generator? I'm looking to get a generator to work a TV for a small tailgate my friends and I are having in a few weeks. Price seems too good to be true for the reviews it has.

u/reallybigshark · 1 pointr/AskReddit

It's this 'why even bother' that continues to doom renewable energy. I ask why not try it? Also they have 'pedal r' that supposedly produce more energy than these record cyclists. There is one on amazon that would seem to generate quite a bit if used continuously around 8 hours a day for an entire year. It's DC power though and would have to be converted to AC for normal grid use so there would be losses. i'm not sure how much.

u/nighowl2000 · 1 pointr/ottawa

Get this: https://www.costco.ca/Firman-H08053-Hybrid-Series-Dual-Fuel-Portable-Generator.product.100364803.html

And this: Mroinge Automotive Trickle Battery Charger Maintainer 12V 1A Smart Automatic Battery Charger for Car Motorcycle Boat Lawn Mower Sla Atv Wet Agm Gel Cell Lead Acid Batteries https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B010NRKERI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7rojDbGT3EC43

Then a 30lb tank at costco filled for 85$

Then get this:

Reliance Controls 31410CRK Pro/Tran 10-Circuit 30 Amp Generator Transfer Switch Kit with Transfer Switch, 10-Foot Power Cord, and Power Inlet Box for Up to 8,000-Watt Generators https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000HS2L3O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3nojDb6PD5Q25


Should only cost $1000 to install from a contactor or electrician.

u/rudykruger · 1 pointr/solar

Are you within the Amazon return window? Send it back.

​

That is almost certainly not a real MPPT charge controller, and it is way overpriced for what it is. The "PV Off" setting is where charging stops and the battery goes into float. A single setting is not enough, with this controller you will always undercharge and eventually ruin the battery prematurely.

​

A proper charge controller (MPPT or PWM) allows you to set a level for Bulk charge (i.e. approximately 80% charged), Absorption charge (the remaining 20% to full) and Float charge (trickle charge once full).

​

If you are on a budget, on the cheaper side get Epever or Renogy. This 30A Epever is a proper MPPT controller and is more than enough charge controller for your setup (with a 30Amp MPPT you can go up to ~400W of solar if you are charging a 12V batttery system).

https://www.amazon.com/EPever-Controller-Tracer3210AN-Charging-Regulator/dp/B07BHKJSFN/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=epever+tracer+40a&qid=1562524137&s=gateway&sr=8-8

​

With a 100W panel you don't need a 40Amp controller, or even a 30Amp controller. A 100 watt, 12V nominal panel (i.e. 18-20V PV) will produce around 5.5 amps, and a real MPPT controller might raise that to 7 amps charge to the batteries. This 15A Victron controller is vastly superior and can handle up to 200 watt solar when charging 12V batteries.

https://www.amazon.com/Victron-BlueSolar-MPPT-Charge-Controller/dp/B00U3MK0CI/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=victron+75%2F15&qid=1562524536&s=gateway&sr=8-4

u/Phaedrus0230 · 1 pointr/teslamotors

All you really need is a transfer switch of some sort and an AC inverter hooked up to your car's 12v system. Just don't draw more power than the car's dc-dc converter can make.

u/The_What_Stage · 1 pointr/bonnaroo

Hopefully this starts a conversation about acceptable volume, because I really want to take a generator this year but don't want to be 'that guy'

This volume rating is 63 dB = conversational speech

My gas generator WEN 1800W is rated at the same exact volume rating.

https://www.amazon.com/WEN-56180-Starting-Generator-Compliant/dp/B00T7VT450

The other one I have is at 60db:

https://www.amazon.com/PowerPro-56101-Starting-Portable-Generator/dp/B00J261PGQ


I was also looking at portable A/C units which seem to have a volume around 53 dB (Refrigerator Volume)

Our main reason for wanting one is to put a little portable A/C unit in the tent in the mornings so we can sleep in beyond ~8am and also charge phones, etc.

You'd figure that if our A/C Unit is at 53 dB and we have our generator next to the fire lane on the other side of our car that we won't even be hearing it in our tent, but I'm more concerned about disrupting neighbors than our own camp.

u/scarflash · 1 pointr/vandwellers

true looks like almost a $120 difference.. damn

PWM

vs.

MPPT

edit: any thoughts on this one? sounds pretty great for a 200W setup.

u/SVKissoon · 1 pointr/vandwellers

I just, on a whim, ordered this charge controller on eBay for $35 flat. https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Wanderer-30A-Charge-Controller/dp/B00BCTLIHC/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
It was new with original everything and I figured I have the eBay protection if its not what its supposed to be. The owner says they ordered a bundle but they already had a charge controller so sold their Wanderer. we'll see how it plays out.

Thanks for your reply.

u/namesrue · 1 pointr/LoopArtists

If you have less than 500W total, this is super portable: https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-PPRH5B-Portable-Station/dp/B00BR1TO80

u/Morgrid · 1 pointr/TropicalWeather
u/TemptedTemplar · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

Well that makes it easy. There aren't any batteries that can do it with USB alone, so you need to find ones with AC outlets so you can use the system AC adapter. And probably another one for the projectors power too. Which leaves you with a very small list.

This is probably your best option imuto 50k mAh.

Do note that none of those can legally be taken on planes. Anything with two AC outlets is likely way over the 100watt hour maximum.

u/MatchaMoto · 1 pointr/vandwellers

https://www.amazon.com/Link-Solar-Weatherproof-Project-Campervan/dp/B0111RNZDY/ref=pd_cp_107_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0111RNZDY&pd_rd_r=EKHR6Y5N0NVKJF614FB2&pd_rd_w=9YXfC&pd_rd_wg=V6sqE&psc=1&refRID=EKHR6Y5N0NVKJF614FB2
This plus a shit ton of dicor over the holes that YOU HAVE TO DRILL (sorry)
I like this one better because it has the lip around the edge that you can put a few screws into
It's that or run it through the open window

u/pkb4112 · 1 pointr/vandwellers

Yes I do have a voltmeter, the battery voltage now that I've unplugged the solar panels from the charge controller is 12.9 volts.
Wire is 10 gauge CC to batteries, under a foot in length.

Wire for inverter is 5 gauge, 2 feet.

Ive only had it all hooked up for about a week, and yesterday was the first sunny day. I had my fan and lights running OK, but today when I started using the inverter was when I realized something was wrong. The batteries shouldnt be draining that quickly, or venting so intensely

Link for charge controller is https://www.amazon.com/Regulator-Controller-Digital-Adjustable-Settings/dp/B00JMLPP12

No alternator, just solar.

u/internetfightmeirl · 1 pointr/technology

Get an UPS and connect a big battery to it

u/eaglejm · 1 pointr/GoRVing

The panel output more like 5.5 amps /hour per 100 watt panel that's what my HQSTs do. PWM Is fine for a small solar setup better gain would be to get a 3rd panel than the extra expense of mppt. Something with a lcd to display input and output in amps is nice like HQST 30 Amp PWM Smart Solar Charge Controller with LCD Display https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FB3OPKM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.XETybK31ADKN

u/Kazelob · 1 pointr/SolarDIY

I was planning on getting a 30 Amp like this one

u/andthebatman · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice
u/darkdog1112 · 1 pointr/Ice_Poseidon

He's gonna need a few of https://www.amazon.com/Goal-Zero-400-Rechargeable-Generator/dp/B06WVDG9BS/ these with solar panels if he plans on streaming for 3 days in the middle of nowhere.

u/WhatATravisT · 1 pointr/motorcycles

On a side note, for those at apartments without battery tenders I highly reccomend the solar battery tender. It's saved my ass...well...5 times now.

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-1163-Solar-Maintainer/dp/B004Q83TGO

u/DeftNerd · 1 pointr/skoolies

Some things are terrible for battery driven operations. Air Fryers rank up there with toaster ovens, hair dryers, and space heaters.

I highly suggest aginst this.

If you want power for other things, like ab efficient TV or laptop, consider getting an oversized Lithium Ion battery bank. Not one of the ones for phones, one of the ones meant for camping or emergencies.

u/instanoodles84 · 1 pointr/PersonalFinanceCanada

You could probably get away with this to do that.

u/MildlyEnragedOcelot · 1 pointr/vandwellers

Just found that these Victron MPPT solar charge controllers have a lithium charge profile you can select: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00U3MK0CI/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_awdo_x_ClVtybFR6JJ4Y

Still wondering if there is some elegant way to tie in alternator charging

u/iredwards · 1 pointr/bicycling

I started a project like this, but won't finish. If anyone wants the generator and belt you can have them. I won't ship, you have to pick up (in Seattle).

Here's a pic of the generator and belt:
http://www.amazon.com/MNS-Power-Bicycle-Generator-Dynamo/dp/B003GJL6GO

u/angry_shoe · 1 pointr/SolarDIY

Has anyone used or have advice about Folding Panels?

u/cholley_doo · 1 pointr/AskTechnology

i use something like this

https://www.amazon.com/Rockpals-250-Watt-Generator-Rechargeable-Emergency/dp/B075SSMR6K/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=generator+alternative&qid=1575035211&sr=8-3

​

they have different capacities which drive the price , i also have the solar charger setup

u/MrYamimoto · 1 pointr/cinematography

Just do your homework. The advertised wattage on the generator is usually a 'peak' or 'surge' wattage. The wattage it can put out on a continuous basis is usually considerably lower. So, if you want 4000 watts continuously, you'll likely end up buying a generator that advertises 5000 or more.

Random example I found ... It advertises 4,400, but actually supplies 3500 continuous.

u/SunnySouthTexas · 1 pointr/vandwellers
u/cmonpplrly · 1 pointr/solar

Hopefully this is the right place. I'm working on wiring my camper and have this 225Wh, LiFePO4 battery pack. I would like to pair it with something like this, a preferably flexible 100w panel. The only way to charge the battery pack is via a 15V 4A wall charger. My battery pack is made to charge via solar, albeit with their proprietary panels. I would have contacted the manufacturer about what peripherals I need to get and ask them if/how I could use 3rd party panels, but the company has gone out of business. My question is, can I buy this solar panel, splice a DC charger tip on to it and charge my battery? Or am I missing some critical steps? I believe the battery pack has a built in charge controller, but I'm not sure. Any help would be awesome. Thanks!

u/daewootech · 1 pointr/TeslaLounge

not sure what the recharge rate is but i would imagine unless your directly tethering to the terminals then you would be limited to the fuse amperage, typically like 15 amps on a cigarette plug i think?


back on the main topic, maybe something in this article might help? https://teslatap.com/articles/12-volt-battery-compendium/ they dont mention exact rates that i saw but it says "

>The Gen 2 DC-DC converter in the refreshed Model S accepts 220 to 430 VDC at 15 amps, and outputs 9 to 16 VDC. When outputting 12 VDC, it can deliver about 200 amps.
>
>The Model 3 integrates the charger and the DC-DC converter into a single package, the PCS (Power Conversion System)

​

IMHO i would just invest in one of those Portable power stations from the likes of Jackery, Anker or Goal Zero especially seeing as how the replacement battery is going for about $500 on Amazon.

u/classy_barbarian · 1 pointr/askscience

At that point, there are already battery-powered jump starting devices that do this exact thing. Such as this device. If anyone was to go through the trouble of buying a jump starter, you may as well just get one of these instead.

u/brianbrah · 1 pointr/ElectricForest
u/thatyurt · 1 pointr/OffGrid

I’d look into the GoalZero products. We use a Yeti 400 battery for our off grid yurt (https://amzn.to/2IAk0YV), along with 180W of solar to charge it. It takes around 6 hours of direct sun to charge, it seems. If you’re in AK or Canada in summer, sun obviously isn’t hard to come by.

I think our battery is 33ah, so if you’re trying to do big watt draws like a karaoke machine you might want one of their bigger batteries. We only use the 400 to run LED lights and charge computers.

The up front cost might seem intimidating, but it’s lithium and you get the convenience of a plug and play battery-inverter-controller all in one.

u/zwhitchcox · 1 pointr/SolarDIY

no, the panel is flat on the ground. these are my panels. The temp is 72 deg.

The controller

The battery is a used Tesla Model S battery

u/Mayor_of_tittycity · 1 pointr/philadelphia

Here's an 1800w one. Actually cheaper than yours. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00T7VT450/ref=psdcmw_348967011_t2_B01M8L2RTS. Good point about the inrush. Not something you typically concern yourself with. I'll need to do some thinking. Not sure my hoa actually allows it.

u/ZaneBrooklyn · 1 pointr/vandwellers

Thanks for the reply! FWIW It's a Li-ion on amazon here, says input at 15V 2.5A

u/fangdelicious · 1 pointr/raleigh

If anyone is interested in a generator, new in box. Let me know.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001BMDFPS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/canonymous · 1 pointr/askscience

You can purchase DIY generators to attach to an exercise bike, like this one, for example. You ought to be able to power a laptop for a while, provided you were careful to match the input to avoid burning anything out.

u/awesomenesser · 1 pointr/BurningMan

I used 2x 150W roof panels that I got off of ebay for $330 shipped and a cheap amazon pwm charge controller combined with 3 marine deep cycle batteries. Just keep in mind that panels these days are very cheap, you should try to pay less than a dollar a watt, I would avoid buying panels from Harbor Freight as they can end up costing over $5/W (the only advantage they have is portability which could be a big deal I suppose) (The goal zero 90W panel would cost you $5.56/W).

Here is the posting that I bough from last year, I have been very happy with the panels, keep in mind these things are heavy so with shipping $330 is a pretty darn good price. http://r.ebay.com/4SCK9w

Amazon PWM charge controller (I bought this one because the lcd displays voltage levels, current in and out, and usage over time for the input and output) http://amzn.com/B00JMLPP12

Image of the setup from last year: http://imgur.com/a/AuM03

EDIT:
The pwm controller has a built in dusk dawn timer system so you can feed your lighting right off the unit. Or for high power stuff just tap right off the batteries (fuses would probably be a good idea...). We ran a couple 12V swamp coolers, a couple inverters, and a couple lipo chargers (charged 10+ large lipo packs a day for personal led lighting). And we never even came close to using the full 300W.

u/Bumblemeister · 0 pointsr/vandwellers

I'm looking at one of these guys

Possibly its big brother

This is the heater

Here's the solar panel I'm looking at.

u/wintercast · 0 pointsr/PelletStoveTalk

Is your pellet stove your only source of heat? Do you turn it down at night? If your pellet stove pipe going out of the house has some rise to it, for the most part it still has some ability to get the smoke out due to chimney effect. If your pipe is just sticking straight out of your wall , you might want to extend the pipe up on the outside of the house to encourage more draft.

you can use a battery back up (like the kind for a computer) - they have an alarm on them and will beep while in battery mode, so that might be able to wake you up in the night to alert you that the power went out.

If the power does go out enough at your place; i would highly suggest adding a generator plus transfer switch. I have one. it is not automatic and i would have to hook up the generator to the house, flip the transfer switch etc. but i made sure the outlet my stove uses is also one of the covered circuits.

​

Example Transfer Switch Kit - this is the one i used. Very happy with it. They do have other options. I have a well pump that needs 240. Just about everything in my home is covered except for the AC (i have a separate boiler for heat and hot water that is covered) and i have a sub panel for an addition on my house. If i need power for the addition i can run an extension cord.

https://www.amazon.com/Reliance-Corporation-31410CRK-10-circuit-Generators/dp/B000HS2L3O

Personally, i dont run my stove when i am sleeping or not home. I have hydronic heat for the house, the stove is to help keep the uninsulated part of the house warm. But i understand your concern and needs if it is your only heat.

u/10cmToGlory · -1 pointsr/overlanding

But keep in mind you don't have to charge the whole battery. So, if you have 400 watts of solar, which is easy to haul in the back with $100 flexible solar panels from Amazon, assuming you get 10 hours or sun each day for 2 days, you very roughly end up with 31 miles of range using the Tesla miles per Kw efficiency ratio of 3.9 miles to kWh (assuming I did my math right).

Not quite what you get out of a jerry can (5 gallons), but if you carry the same weight in solar panels - 5Ga Jerry can of gas holds roughly 30lbs of gasoline, 2lbs/100 Wh for Allpower flexibles, so (1500 W/h 10hrs) 2 = 3000 Wh), which over the course of a weekend gets you roughly 117 miles.

That said, solar panels don't leak, don't build up parafin, and don't explode if they get too hot.

u/knowskarate · -1 pointsr/preppers