(Part 2) Best power rotary tools according to redditors
We found 326 Reddit comments discussing the best power rotary tools. We ranked the 77 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
I rescued a german shepherd mix when he was about 2 months old and he just turned 2 years! He's awesome!
Join /r/dogs for great community, support, and advice.
Here are some of my dog's favorites if you're lost on what to Wishlist on Amazon:
Furminator GSD mixes don't need regular brushing, but this one works great for shedding season
Dremel for nail trimming GSD = black nails, a bit trickier to trim. I use this with lots of treats to put a nice round edge and take off a bit of length of my dog's nails. works good but get him accustomed to it slowly and with lots of treats. Pretty soon he won't mind.
*Zukes are great treats for training
Wow I kind of didn't realize I have so much shit for my dog. But he's family so...anyway. Also costco has great beds for $20ish (comparably $80+ from a petstore) They also carry Frontline, lots of treats (buscuits, duck breast jerkey - the best!) good food (Iams ProActive goes on sale once in a while, and they also carry Natures Domain salmon/sweet potato food that's really good).
It’s time to take matters into your own hands.
How about a Dremel kit to cut holes into those hideous fake rear vents.
I started with flexcut interchangeable sets. I personally have the 11 pc. and deluxe set . Note that the image on amazon for the deluxe set is wrong, it looks like this. I still use them everyday alongside my more expensive tools and a benefit of the interchangeable blades is you can get an adapter in the future and use it with a powered reciprocating carver. Note also that these sets dont overlap, so if you got both the 11 piece and the deluxe you wont have duplicate chisels. It's a good way to initially round out a wide range of gouges and v tools and then later on you can start buying the more expensive chisels a little at a time. Good brands are Pfeil, Ashley Iles, Two Cherries, Henry Taylor, Auriou, Dastra, Addis (Antique, can find them on Ebay) and there are others that I cant think of atm.
You'll also need a sharpening stone and oil, and a strop. I personally use a soft arkansas stone and the norton oil, I also have a set of soft arkansas slip stones for honing the inside edge of gouges and v tools. And this is the main strop I use. And stropping compound, you can use flexcut gold or some green compound.
​
Iv'e also heard good things of ramelson tools, but personally have not used them, so maybe someone else can vouch for them.
​
---
Section 1: Tools
---
Note: Just because it is more expensive doesn't mean it is better. You could get by just fine with the "cheaper" options.
---
| Tool | Required vs. Optional | Use | Notes | Price & Link |
|:---|:---:|:---|:---|:---:|:---:|
| Tandy Wholesale Membership | O | Allows you to get better pricing at Tandy. | This is definitely optional. Items will cost slightly more without it OR if you have a tax ID you can get the membership with better pricing for free. | $35 / Free|
| Awl Haft | R | The handle which will hold your blade. | This particular haft allows for different blades to be added or removed with ease. | $16 / $35|
| Diamond Awl Blade| R | This is the blade used for piercing the holes in your projects.| This goes in the awl haft.| $4.80 / $28
| Channel Groover | R | Used to measure and gouge channels where your thread will lay. | Some say gouging a channel is optional however I find it to be required. It further protects your thread from damage. | $16 / $80 |
| Overstitch Wheel | R | Marks where you will punch your holes. | This particular overstitch wheel is a few dollars more than the versions that only offer one wheel. | $24 / $225 |
| Edge Beveler | R | Used to bevel and round off the edges of your project prior to burnishing. | Sizes vary. The smaller the number, the smaller the round edge. | $12 / $55 |
| Adhesive Glue | O | Used to hold your pieces of leather together prior to piercing the holes. | Some people prefer binder clips instead of glue. I've found that the clips end up making marks on my projects so I've always stuck with glue. | $6 / $30 |
| Gum Tragacanth | R | Used as a burnishing agent for your edges.| Some people use saddle soap. I prefer gum trag.| $6.40 / $21|
| Harness Needles | R | Used in combination with the thread for your projects. | Avoid the stitching needles. They break very easily.| $5.99 / $7.50 |
| Xacto Blade | R | Used for cutting projects. | You may have one of these at home already. Be ready to have replacement blades handy ($21.95) | $2.49 / $50 |
| Self-Healing Cutting Mat | R | Used for cutting your leather projects.| You may have one of these at home already. If so, you can obviously use that.| $14.73 / $50.80 |
| Cork-backed Ruler| R | Used for cutting straight lines.| I highly recommend the cork-backed version. It will save from accidental cuts/slips.| $4.80 / $14 |
| Burnishing Tool | R | Used in combination with the gum tragacanth to get a good burnish.| A good piece of canvas can be used as well. | $8.99 / $80 + $99|
| Sanding Tool| O | Used to sand down the edges prior to burnishing.| You might have sandpaper at home. Feel free to use that too.| $7.30 / $0 with dremel|
| Steel Square | O | Used for creating nice, even squares/rectangles for projects. | Learn to use this correctly!| $8 / $14|
| Thread Cutters | O | Use these for cutting your thread in the hard to reach places without running the risk of damaging your project. | Scissors work for cutting thread and the xacto blade can work for cutting thread inside your projects -- just be careful! | $3.95 / $39 |
| Maul | O | Used for end punches, rivets, snaps, chisels, or irons. | You really only need one of these if you are planning on doing any of the activities mentioned previously. | $20 / $55 |
| Pricking Iron/Chisel | O | Use these to mark or punch your holes instead of an overstitch wheel and awl. I prefer using the overstitch wheel and awl but others like the irons/chisels. | There is a big difference between irons vs. chisels, diamond vs. lacing. They all produce different results. Definitely ask before purchasing! The ones I linked are very different.| $12 / $259|
| Creaser | O | Used for decorative creases on things like card slots. | Definitely optional and definitely personal preference. | $14.40 / $72 |
| Wax | O | Used for burnishing. Gives the edges a nice seal. | The $10 is my top secret wax I use. I bought a bunch on sale for $5 and it is fantastic. | $4 / $10|
---
If his nails are super long, consider taking him to a vet/ groomer to have them do his nails and show you how. Because the nails are long, the quick (the blood vessel inside the nail) is likely to be long as well, so you are more likely to cut it, which will hurt him and might make him more fearful.
Or, you could get a small wireless Dremel which will power file his nails and won't cut the quick. You'd have to get him used to this, but it shouldn't be an issue with some dedication.
After seeking the guidance of all you gurus (https://www.reddit.com/r/XWingTMG/comments/4tkx3v/taking_the_plunge_with_magnets/), I finally went ahead and did it.
Components:
Ring Magnets https://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=R421
Ball Bearings https://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=R421
Gorialla Glue https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-7805001-15g-Super-Glue/dp/B001IY82FM
Dremel 4000 https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-4000-3-34-120-Volt-Variable/dp/B002L3RUVQ
X-Acto Knife http://www.michaels.com/10223579.html#q=x-acto&start=10
Pliers http://lmgtfy.com/?q=pliers
My process for the ships was as follows:
My Process for the stands was as follows:
-use a snap off knife
-invest in a dremel
-use rough then fine grit sandpaper if no dremel
-seal with woodglue or modpodge
-you can also seal with plastidip if you like
-paint with any sort of paint you like: krylon for plastic or acrylic are my top choices
You can get most/all of the above at walmart, harbor freight, or a hardware store
I know plenty of folks will disagree, but I have an old school dremel that I use all the time on small projects. Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-4000-3-34-120-Volt-Variable/dp/B002L3RUVQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1347740478&sr=1-2&keywords=dremel+4000
A good hammer, I'd avoid wooden handles and while 16oz is fine if you're just tacking into drywall, 20 or 21oz hammers will make a difference if you're driving nails into studs or lumber.
Corded drills are cheaper, often more powerful, and can get where they need to go with an extension cord. If you can afford a high powered cordless drill (as mentioned, not Ryobi) look for one that shares the same battery pack with other tools. You can always add to your collection later but having a consistent battery across is nice. I'd also suggest getting at least one spare battery pack as inevitably you'll run out of power in the middle of a project and it's a pain to have to wait for a recharge.
For "until I can afford something better" picking up some of the packaged mechanics kits can get you a good starter set of wrenches, pliers, wire strippers, socket wrench, punches, etc. They won't be the best by any means, but they'll do for now until you can invest in something nicer. They also tend to cover most home assembly projects pretty well. I can't vouch for the Kobalt line of tools having never used them, but I started off ages ago with something like this http://www.lowes.com/pd_228548-25428-86215_4294707909__?productId=3697806&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNs%3Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar%7C1&facetInfo=
If you're going to do big projects, circular saws are great. You can get a hand saw and a miter box (but if you find you're doing a lot of angled cuts getting a compound miter saw is handy, but they take up space you might not have).
Good luck!
I bought this kit a couple years back during a Black Friday sale. I already had some extra bits to use in addition to it but that kit itself has been pretty perfect for everything I need it for. The attachment accessory comes in very handy when needing to do fine detail work or small cuts etc.
His cones are center marked. If I were doing it on a drill press Id just use a few scraps of wood and a vise to make sure I don't squish the cone any.
Don't over think this, just make sure it wont spin when you clamp it and that its flat square and level. A $20 drill press vise from HF and a torpedo level will do ya.
For drill hole sizes, I don't claim to be an expert but I use 17/64. (0.265) and 9/32 (0.280) on the last 2 baffles and endcap.
For clipping on 22lr I just do double swoop clips I take a tungsten dremel bit and go a little down the cone. Something like this
https://i.imgur.com/Y52iR9S.jpg
Here is a dremel tool bit I have used. https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-9901-Tungsten-Carbide-Cutter/dp/B00004UDJJ
I know tools so here we go. Focusing on the extras, luxuries, and conveniences. If I don't specifically note a manufacturer/model I probably just grabbed the first Amazon link to make it clear what I'm talking about.
And to not leave anything blank, here is what I'm happy with that I use:
For polishing cartridge pins - [Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish](http://www.amazon.com/Mothers-5100-Aluminum-Polish-Paste/dp/B00068GEJM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1319605826&sr=8-4"She's not my mother, but I love her")
To speed up the process/ to tackle very damaged pins - my trusty [variable speed Dremel tool](http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-300-1-24-Variable-Speed-Rotary/dp/B002BAHFBE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1319605918&sr=8-2"Don't leave home without it, unless you enjoy having friends, then don't bring that anywhere") (I use a large polishing disc with the polish, and make a huge mess, if you are going to try this - WEAR SAFETY GLASSES. You only get two eyes, it'd be a shame to ruin any of them.)
Sticker removal - [Un-Du](http://www.amazon.com/Du-Products-Adhesive-Remover-4-Ounce/dp/B002E3KMSQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1319606203&sr=8-1"The only thing better than this would be a product that let you punch who ever decided to put a goddamned monster sticker over the goddamned label of a copy of Duck Tales 2. If I find you, I swear I'll punch you. It'll be easy, your name is all over your carts in marker. Do you know how hard that is to take off? Do you BILLY?!?") This is made of unicorn tears, or something. You can (although I don't recommend) pour this on over your main cartridge label to pull up a sticker on the top, when it dries, the label should not show any liquid was on it, and will become sticky again (be careful, that sticker will also have it's adhesive properties return). Very good product, and if you couple it with an old gift card, you can peel up pretty much anything. I can't praise this enough.
General staples - Rubbing Alcohol (highest concentration you can find), a million or so Q-Tips, Windex, and Compressed air (try to find someone without the additive that prevents kids from using it as a drug, unless you have excellent ventilation, you'll get that taste in your mouth, and it is awful.)
I haven't tried it, but I have been eyeing this dremel vice, looks like it is able to be repositioned to make it comfortable to use while picking, and isn't too expensive. Reminds me a lot of the panavice.
https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-2500-01-Rotary-Tool-Multi-Vise/dp/B000P4W3LU
LINK Three styles of kits there, depending on how many extra things you want, but you could always get the base kit and get the individual parts as needed.
This one is variable speed, which is nice
I used my dremel (3000 series) for exactly this....are you sure there isn't a dremel attachment that can help steady your hand? Perhaps something like this?
> Acastus Knight Porphyrion
I'm not sure about that one. It's a mighty big model, but it's leg assembly seems to be more like a knight titan, than a cerestus or warhound. It doesn't have the inverted knee like the other knights do. No idea what cabin assembly is like either. The warhound cabin is a bunch of huge pieces, I don't know of anything that can prepare you for it. I used about 20 rubber bands while I was building, to make sure it all held together and looked good before gluing. There is a pic of my warhound WIP below, you can see how it's legs have 3 segments, making a forward joint, and reverse joint. Standard Knights and the porphyrion only have a forward, and Cerestus only have a reverse. The only non +warhound models I know of with similar 3 segment opposite joint style assembly are the decimator and I believe the kytan daemon engine.
For pinning big ass models, I still use paperclips. However instead of pinning straight across a joint, like you might on infantry, I go through the joint from the outside. You can see some paperclips under the warhounds foot. There is one in each toe that goes all the way through, so if the warhound wants to move, the pin must be pulled out. That is the only place I pinned the warhound though. I used big ass magnets on the head, torso, and arms so I could do this to transport it.
My knight titan has 3mm neodymium magnets in each arm. They are the same ones I use on marines, dreadnoughts and just about everything. They hold knight weaponry up decently, but some people prefer larger ones. You can get bulk magnets on ebay much cheaper than the hobby store, but if you don't want to wait, go to a hardware store, as they are still cheaper than hobby store.
I believe this dremel is the new version of the one I have. The flex shaft attachment makes life so much easier. A basic drill bit set is good for getting started, but make sure it has the same size as the magnets you use. I've started using jewelry bits for mine, and they are insane good. However the larger ones (1.5mm-3mm set) are difficult to use, as they cut more than bore. Just last night I couldn't keep a handle on the arm bit I was drilling, ended up flying across the room. On resin they are easier though. I bought a set of cutter bits from the hardware store. It was all spherical tip and tube tip of various sizes. It has been very useful for battle damage, and the tube tip is how I widen holes for giant ass magnets.
The real MVP of a dremel for hobby conversions and building has been the circular saw bits I got mine from a wood carving magazine, and they are paper thin. Not 100% about these ones, but they are great for precision cuts and removing chunks of resin.
Which would be easier to start with? I see the benefit of both. Do you have a rotary tool that you would recommend? I've browsed around and was thinking about the Dremel 4000 here but part of me wants to go the hand route....I can do that inside my house without pissing anyone off as much with a rotary. Any recommendations on knives and micros? What about there and here. I'd like to stay under or around $100.00 on my first go of tools. Thanks again
here is a basic rotary tool
He said it isn't available in North America, but I think I found it on Amazon :
Proxxon 38644 Power Carver MSG
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004B4A3SU
And it's 120 volts
Wall of text to follow :)
Thank you. I almost exclusively taught myself just by trying to make different things. I started first by making wooden stamps and slowly realized that I didn’t like how they were turning out so I just got my hands on lots of different wood and bits for my dremel and played around with what each bit could and couldn’t do to different types of wood. Initially this is what I tried finding tutorials for, and there is a surprising lack of videos that can provide straight answers to what bit is best for crafting various things. Almost all the videos focus on the home improvement side of the tool, or on how to make something specific, but not so much how to use the tool itself.
If you are looking to jump into it I would highly suggest the dremel stylo. It’s cheap for how versatile it is and with all the options for bits what you can do with it is almost limitless (unless you are hoping to make large sculptures then ignore everything I have just said).
For carving things like this I use a combination of cutting bits available in nearly any large hardware store, and specialty diamond tip bits (don’t worry they are cheaper than they sound) for fine detail and smoothing. Both types are very easy to get on Amazon.
Most major craft stores stock a lot of the wood I use and a quick google can tell you if you have any specialty wood supply stores near you.
I’m not sure how your eyesight is but I found I absolutely cannot make these without the aid of a desktop magnifying glass/lamp combo. That is probably the most expensive thing, but in my case I NEED it.
All in all I say play around and see what you have the most fun creating. Just make absolutely sure you are very careful when you are starting to get a feel for the tools you choose to use. Thankfully this is pretty low risk compared to other types of woodworking, but it’s still wood working, and you are using a power tool so be carful.
I also found these links that might help for purchasing the bits I use. Dremel’s selection is massive and it can be very intimidating trying to figure out what the hell most of the bits are for.
Here is a good starter set of bits used mostly for material removal I use the ball shaped ones the most by far.
And here is a link to a good starter set of diamond tip ones for fine detail
You can figure out which of these you like and then buy those specific bits from dremel.
Also please feel free to send me a message if there is something you think I can help with. The learning curve can be pretty steep, but it’s probably the most enjoyable hobby I have ever found for myself.
We have the Dremel 8220! Not too noisy at all:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008DRY5AI/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I only have the book! Do you still want that?
If he's into collecting rocks, how about a rock tumbler?. It tosses rocks around until they get smooth, which can make some interesting or even boring at first rocks look pretty nifty.
I've always used one of these on a slow speed for cutting RC car bodies, and plastic automotive trim.
The speed is most likely your problem.
He used a Dremel rotary tool. It is over priced, grab the B&D model that works just as good for much cheaper.
​
https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-RTX-6-3-Speed-Accessories/dp/B0001GUDRI
What he used https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-3000-1-25-Attachment-Accessories/dp/B00LUJONH6/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=Dremel+3+speed+rotary+tool&qid=1563114194&s=power-hand-tools&sr=1-4
For getting rid of molded clothes, and so many other super useful things, I recommend owning a dremel, or other rotary tool.
You don't need a fancy one. I've got 3 dremel tools, of varying degrees of torque and power. One is identical to this one - only without the pet grooming branding. It's still a dremel - it'll still work.
Dremel 7300-PT 4.8V Pet Nail Grooming Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TU0XG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jF4xDb8CJPTXW
$30
I did find this guy for a super cheap price -
WEN 23006 Two-Speed Cordless Rotary Tool Kit with 10-Piece Accessory Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MSL9PW4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4C4xDb9MG46FY
$12
Can't vouch for it being any good, given its price, but it should be compatible with the dremel rotary bits, and for a starter tool, and just working on dolls, it should be fine.
Whatever rotary you get, you'll need a few things to go with it. I recommend one or both of these -
Sanding drums
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BK1VRH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yJ4xDb738D61Y
Abrasive buffing wheels
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075C72PGK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NH4xDbCZ6DM5C
The buffing wheels are pretty good a removing tiny molded clothing details without eating up the plastic a lot.
If you ever do anything with apoxie-sculpt, the dremel can come in handy with grinding down things after its cured.
OH - and sand paper. Buy sand paper.
I recommend getting some 120 grit, 220 grit, and some 400 grit. You work your way from the lower, rougher paper, up to 400 to get a smooth finish. When you get up to 400, make sure you sand in circular motions to avoid leaving gouges in the plastic.
I have to start with the disclaimer that I live in a townhouse and what little yard I have is maintained by the HOA, so I have no opinion on yard stuff. :)
Here's what I think about tools. First of all, if you're going for cordless tools, do some research because you're pretty much locked into a brand with your first item. The price of the batteries and the chargers is significant enough that you're not going to want to mess around with different brands that all have to have their own batteries. I've settled on the Ryobi One+ system and it works well for me. I don't see it going away any time soon. But there are other good brands out there as well, so research first.
The things that I have used the most around my house are:
I do a lot of household projects and like to DIY so there are a lot of other tools that I have (and my family knows my addiction to power tools, so they've indulged me over Christmas and birthdays), but those are the 3 things that most often get put to use. And for real, the little Dremel multi-max saw is a WORKHORSE. I've used it to cut down trim, to cut metal balusters, to cut drywall ... it's amazing.
I do have a battery powered circular saw and a miter saw that I use for little stuff but if you're going to be cutting anything bigger than a 2x4, you will want a corded circular saw. I bought my corded saw when I needed to cut down large sheets of 3/4" plywood for the attic. The battery powered saw just bogged down after a couple of inches.
Oh, also get a good set of drill bits and screwdriver bits. Usually what you get with the tool is the bare minimum. You don't have to get the same brand as your tools, but I did wind up with this one when my partner gave it to me for Christmas a few years ago. I laughed and thought it was overkill at the time, but I've used most of the pieces at this point and it's been so much better than having to go buy individual pieces: https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-Drill-and-Drive-Kit-90-Piece-A98901G/206264359
That's what I can think of off the top of my head. Hope it's helpful.
Anyone who has a pair of handcuffs in their house should also have a Dremel and a set of Dremel 456 cut-off wheels, just in case. I was in a similar situation and managed managed to escape by myself with a Dremel. It cut through the case hardened steel like butter. Just make sure to be patient and let the tool do the work. You don't want to cut the skin, especially if it's your own.
Dremel 200-1/15 Two-Speed Rotary Tool Kit
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002BAHF8W/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_nOCCub1B0Y38C
Dremel 456 1-1/2" Reinforced Rotary Tool Cut-Off Wheel - 10 Pack
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006O8RZA/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_UGCCub0W8RTB3
Check amazon vs home Depot or Lowe's. If you think you'll ever use any of the stuff in the combo kit, the kits are great. And with it I would just buy one of the assortment attachment kits that comes with different drum Sanders, polishers, cut off wheels, etc. I'd you don't think you'll ever use the other tools in the combo kit, I'd still recommend getting the corded version that comes in that kit.
Dremel CKDR-02 Ultimate 3-Tool Combo Kit with 15 Accessories and Storage Bag https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BLJ3AR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_f5cmDbGY3PQ3A
Dremel Rotary Tool Accessory Kit- 710-08- 160 Accessories- EZ Lock Technology- 1/8 inch Shank- Cutting Bits, Polishing Wheel and Compound, Sanding Disc and Drum, Carving, Sharpening, and Engraving https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BHGJHMI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_c6cmDbZ76X0DA
As /u/tomcatHoly said, use the lowest speed you can for burnishing, and I find that making an initial pass with water only, followed by a second pass after you pull a bar of glycerin soap over your edge makes for a nice burnish using these tools. I would not recommend using the flex, but I have found that using a detailer's grip makes for good comfort and control.
*EDIT: links
It's not hard but good equipment makes it much easier. Buy the very best soldering iron you can afford. I always found a Dremel vice was handy for holding the boards:
http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-2500-01-Rotary-Tool-Multi-Vise/product-reviews/B000P4W3LU
http://www.getprice.com.au/Dremel-Multi-Vice-2500-55-Gpnc_261--48758676.htm
I use this soldering iron:
http://www.electusdistribution.com.au/productView.asp?ID=5965&CATID=29&keywords=&SPECIAL=&form=CAT&SUBCATID=198
This was over $40 a few days ago when I was strumming my guitar with this pickle I found in my mailbox. But THIS is right at $60.
I've gifted 8 so far since my finances are still a bit all over the place.
WEN ($20) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BYRFH8/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza
Taclife ($40) - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6RH433/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B01N6RH433&pd_rd_wg=PJD3y&pd_rd_r=9AWBVZAGWHC8CD634DX4&pd_rd_w=PY0Hg
This Dremel looks nice ($75-$120+). Idk, I'll pay for whatever is best. I want to make sure all my silver is shiny so when I die it will look pretty while my copse turns into worm poo.
would it be safe to use this saw https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LUJONH6/?coliid=I2BFWUSU6NYGEQ&colid=DJXY1GYJNPUN&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it to remove a screw that I can't remove from my motherboard?
I use a clamp too when im doing really hard to handle parts, but this is the steady grip I mentioned: http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-A577-Detailers-Grip/dp/B003BIFMJW it gives you better control of the dremel so you don't mess up to hole. If you buy the kit for the dremel it usually comes with one.
Edit; Also if you dont do too much modeling you can probably get away with getting one of the hand drills that army painter and some of the other hobby tool companies make, but having a dremelis never a bad things since it has many uses outside of modeling.
This is the closets I could get to $18 without going over.
For my 18th birthday, I had to take a five hour driving course while recouperating from swine flu. I had to take it before I could schedule a driving test, and they only offered them on Saturdays. My mom decided to schedule it for me, so I had no say in the matter. After the course was over, I went home and layed down on the livingrom floor because we didn't have air conditioning and my mom was layed up (also with swine flu- she was rushed to the hospital the day before because she was caughing up blood) on the couch, in front of the fan, and the floor was the coolest place I could find.
I hope your birthday is a hell of a lot better than mine was.
Speaker of da hauz!
Gotcha. Does this seem like a decent one? Im also kinda worried about making a mess in my dorm room, and I cant exactly use it outside since its not cordless.
Oh man, that's ugly.
I think you're going to have to cut that chain apart to get it out. Right...see the section to the right of the sprocket that goes up, over, back down folded on itself? You're going to have to cut it where it goes across. That "bulge" where the cross-piece is keeps the sprocket from rotating, if I'm reading this right.
Best tool for this is a Dremel, or a Dremel clone of some sort that takes the same bits. You then need a fiberglas-grit cutoff wheel...it's basically similar to a die grinder except a hell of a lot smaller. It'll let you get in and make the slices in seconds.
The disks look like this:
http://www.amain.com/Dremel-Cutoff-WheelHD-Fiberglass-5/p33467?utm_source=Google-Base&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Product-Feeds&gclid=CKai_92JtcECFSEV7AodHhEAtw
You'll also need the shaft they go onto, and at basic Dremel tool like so:
http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-200-1-15-Two-Speed-Rotary/dp/B002BAHF8W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1413596750&sr=8-2&keywords=corded+dremel
A lot of the $50 range kits (Dremel and other brands) have fiberglas cutoff wheels included.
You'll get SO much use out of a Dremel that you really ought to go ahead and grab one regardless, and it'll bail you out of this mess. The chain is toast, sorry.
The alternative is to pull ALL the motor mounts and shift the motor in the frame to release the chain. Pain in the ass, that, but...yeah, it would salvage the chain I guess, but I'm not sure I'd trust it after the stress this event put on it.
It shouldn't be hard to do with a Dremel tool or hand drill. Sometimes like this or a hand drill should do it. Plus I think the Dremel tool is pretty helpful for any jagged engine ports.
I am pretty sure putting it together for the first time is going to be the hardest part. After I took it apart the first time I was surprised how quickly I can take the whole thing apart and put it together.
Some YouTube videos could come help you with figuring out how it goes together.
Here's the Dremel package for $99. - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1SJNVU/
Tack Life $37 (I wonder how much better this one is compared to the $17 one) - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6RH433
Skil 4.5" angle grinder ($47.95) - https://www.amazon.com/9296-01-7-5-Amp-2-Inch-Paddle-Grinder/dp/B009RJE6TQ/
I really like this Makita and the case it comes in - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010DHFTK/
Hitachi 4.5" $44.99 - https://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-G12SR4-6-2-Amp-Grinder-Abrasive/dp/B0199MMA84/
Bosch 4.5" $49 - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004SUOU/
The workstation in the link is just the workstation, you need to buy a Dremel separately, but they're not too badly priced. Here's the actual tool(the version I have and can recommend): https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-Corded-Electric-Variable-Rotary/dp/B00EA5KWUY/ref=sr_1_10?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1522194907&sr=1-10&keywords=dremel+tool
Edit: added link
I’d try the groove/flathead thing first.
I had this happen to a tap and I used a diamond dremel bit to essentially hollow and dig it out.
Like this. ZFE Diamond Burr Bits Drill Kit For Engraving Carving Rotary Tool- 1/8"(3mm) Shank Pack of 90Pcs/ 3 Sets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016HUCKSG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_R9nXDb375Z219
Thanks, don't hesitate if you need assistant or idead to troubleshoot an issue if you do it. Again, always plan. Oh in case you cut things, my Dremel cost me 140 bucks. Add to that eye and breathing protection, never forget that. And those were the important tools.
...Oh it's actually cheaper now. The attachement (thiner/lighter handle) is quite important.
Honestly, I use a Dremel (brand) 300 series and it's great. Comes with an assorted variety of started bits and it's never given me any problems. Variable speed (which is truely ideal over low/high or one-speed units) and a solid form. Depending on where you buy it from in the end, you can generally find it in the $60-70 range
Just a side note for everyone because it is all too common to do this, but Dremel is a brand, rotary tool is the product in reference.
Hi /r/chemistry, first time poster so sorry for my newbiness,
I am a senior student in Canada who does chemistry in his spare time, i'm looking to do 3 different reactions and would like advice on all 3, as a side note i also have access to most of my school chem lab stuff, so hot plates, beakers, ect i can have, i can't use chemicals though.
The first reaction i'd like to do is White phosphorus by purifying red phosphorus from match boxes, i'd use the acetone method of scratching the mixture off the side, then put the mix in a test tube with cotton at the top to seal it, heat the bottom and make P4 gas. I would then put this in acetone or water and poor the last bit of it in my container. Any advice/comment would be very appreciated, i'm here to learn.
The second reaction i'd like to do is the good old termite, my very kind chem teacher said he'd light it if i bring it, i would like to order a rock tumbler off amazon to grind down tinfoil into fine aluminum powder (https://www.amazon.com/Chicago-Electric-Power-Tools-67631/dp/B000NOKY2W this is what im debating buying) and making the iron powder with Iron wool dipped into a bleach+white vinegar solution. Again any advice would be really appreciated.
Third reaction I can't find the video for it, which is why i'm asking for help, it was making Iodine from Beta-Iodine solution, using H202 and NaOH if my memory serves right.
Sorry for disturbing the serious chemist on this subreddit, this place just seemed like the best to ask for advice. Sorry for my non-ideal English, i'm originally French. Thanks!
Dremel: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002BAHF64/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_DdOMyb5SF8EM1
I used the cutting attachment and it was very easy.
Pin set:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CFVUASS/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_bfOMybXEFV2KG
Wrong bit for the job... try a carbide cutter
Try it first on scrap. This will chop through 2MM steel like butter and ruin your project in 5 seconds. Make sure the metal won't vibrate with the cut, use a straight edge, vice, clamps. Also needed are ear and eye protection, and beware the tip will get red hot.
The cutoff wheel can cut through hardened steel as well, and it doesn't get as hot, but it looses material as it cuts.