(Part 2) Best power strips according to redditors
We found 972 Reddit comments discussing the best power strips. We ranked the 287 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
I don't know about all that living as long as you but to lengthen the life of your CRT:
But really, otherwise, the less time a tube is on, the longer it will last.
It'd be nice with the growing number of courses that require a computer, especially with the spread of online only HW and textbooks.
Until they add more, you could keep something like one of these in your backpack and ask someone to share an outlet.
In that case I think you would be satisfied with an ISOBAR8ULTRA, ground loop isolator, and a couple power squids.
Use the ground loop isolator on the audio cable to your computer. Plug the speakers directly into one of the plugs on the surge supressor. The plugs on this supressor are arranged into four filter banks. Try different devices in plug paired with the speaker one and listen for any interference. This should take care of all your issues for under a hundred dollars and I don't think you will get much better performance without spending MUCH more.
edit: If your budget can stretch a bit more you may enjoy some of the features of the Digital Loggers Web Power Switch 4 or Ethernet Power Controller III. I can attest that they are quality products although they do not have any EMI/RFI filtering (which you may not need anyway).
There are dozens online that are nearly identical, but I just got this one:
Wifi Smart Power Strip, Tonbux Surge Protector with 4 USB Charging Ports and 4 Smart AC Plugs for Multi Outlets Power Socket Extension Cord, Voice Controlled by Amazon Echo & Google Home, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0779R4879?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
There was nothing that I left at home that I wished I had brought with me. But there were things that I brought with me that I should have left at home. You can always buy things along the way - clothes are the easiest to buy, but if you have a favourite style/brand of underwear, that would be the only thing I would recommend you take enough of.
Minimize adapters, chargers, cords as much as you can. I found that a good power board/strip (with USB) and 3m cord came in very handy, similar to this, where you can plug in your gadgets, etc from your country, but just use one adapter. And the long cords helps in hotel rooms and apartments so you can maximise your work area.
A large collapsible umbrella. Many here I am sure would find it unnecessary, but if you are travelling for work (in tropical areas especially) and need to get places dry, a good large umbrella is worth its weight in gold. You might only use it a few times a month, but it keeps you and your things dry. Don't go for a small "travel size" one, get a large, automatic-opening one like this.
It does depend on how much you will be moving around. If you are only moving every 2-3 weeks, that would be very different to if you were moving every 2-3 days. Too much luggage is just a PITA to get to from hotels/airports, no matter who is paying for it. I used a baglike this one and started with 20kg (absolutely full!), but now I have left some things behind and it is 16kg, plus I always have a small backpack for my laptop/electronics and a change of clothes for carryon. Less is best.
I don't know how anyone can take this seriously. There's no way the mechanical energy from a swipe has enough energy to do anything useful. I bet it could run a cheap low power wristwatch, but there's no chance it could power a modern smartphone.
This handcrank charger on Amazon actually works and is for sale, but requires serious effort and is still not practical in day to day circumstances.
> Q: How long do I need to crank to fully charge a standard smart phone?
> A: I think It could take more than an hour, but don't worry you won't be able to turn the handle for more than tree minutes continuously. this device can work very well for emergency events but that's all.
edit: fixed a typo
I always carry these with me. https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Outlet-Cabinet-PS4816/dp/B000051174
Nearly every internally powered speaker that's of the budget range will have some level of hiss or sound floor because of the type of amp used. There's a number of downfalls of the LSR305's and the moderate sound floor is just one of them. Most people use them in rooms that aren't that quiet (computer or other fans going) or only turn them on when they're playing something to get around it. The LSR305's don't perform all that well when playing on super low volume anyway so it's just a poor choice for what you're trying to do. Possibly a solution to what you're doing is to get a power detecting power strip which shuts off certain plugs when no power draw is detected on the main plug. When your TV quits drawing power the plug that the LSR305's are plugged into also turns off. Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/BESTEK-Protector-8-Outlet-Individual-Supported/dp/B01DP9M3DO
No experience with that specific one, just showing the type of thing that would appear to solve your issue. But if you don't like the speakers when they're in use then get something else, the LSR305's just do not do well as an always on component in a quiet bedroom, especially for a TV because they have all individual mechanical controls with no remote possible. My recommendation for any TV setup would be a passive setup with a proper receiver, but if space/budget is an issue something like the Vanatoo T zero's or the Kanto Yu's, Fluance Ai40's or even many of the Edifiers are much better than the LSR305's because they have a remote, front mounted controls, have bluetooth, have an internal DAC, have common power and a bunch of other features you'd want in a system based around a TV even if you do have variable RCA outs from the TV. Just remember that nearly all these all in one speakers with built in internal amps will have some level of hiss, it's just a matter of if that level bothers you. If it does, make sure you can easily turn it off when not in use and that goes for passive or active speakers.
I'm currently using only power surge protectors.
HTPC + HT + TV + consoles + more...
For my desktop
I use a Pyle PDBC7O its nothing fancy its just a rack mounted power strip, but I can turn on/off each of the power inputs independently. I fucking love it, it makes my life a dream.
A hand-crank generator is better. You can buy a 10W generator for $60
Someone thought of you too: https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Outlet-Cabinet-PS4816/dp/B00006B81J?th=1
I'll go ahead and give you links to Amazon, but they're available everywhere. Tripp Lite, as /u/Knobodycares said, is a great brand. They're most known for their server racks, and UPS systems, but more importantly their PDU (power distribution units), which is what you need.
Their best (pricey but best-in-class), is the Isobar line. 4 outlet, 6 outlet, 10 outlet. They shutdown when a surge which would otherwise fry your equipment occurs, instead of simply allowing the power through.
Their other models, 7 outlet, 8 outlet, 10 outlet, are also much better than your average retail brand, and are generally cheaper. They all come with some form of insurance, as-well.
These are only a handful of options, check out the rest here.
I just did a project at work where I made 11 ‘all in one’ computers using 3b+s. I used a vesa mount pi case mounted on the backs of monitors, and I used super strong double sided tape to mount power strips with USB on the back.
I’ve had major problems powering rPis with those USB power strip combos before, I think because they are inconsistent on how they share the power between ports. So I found one on amazon that said each USB port received 2.4 amps independently. Sure enough- they have worked great!
I’ll edit with a link when I get to my office. I think they were like $15, which is great for a 3 outlet power strip with a 5 foot cord that can also power a pi!
Edit: Here is the link to the power strips I used. Great for anyone who needs a power strip and also needs to power a pi.
We actually have miniature 3 plug power strips in our inventory specifically for this purpose.
Like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00NY45N5G/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478109287&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=3+plug+power+strip&dpPl=1&dpID=31r1aBMyezL&ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-mPower-3-port-Power-Wifi/dp/B00CXWS848/
APC 7901
http://www.ebay.com/itm/APC-AP7901-16A-100-120-1U-8-Outlet-Switched-Rack-PDU-Strip-/112257616741?hash=item1a23134b65:g:UiYAAOSwA3dYZCKN
any other number of networked PDU's.
+1 for those wallpapers.
And yes, a new surge protector. I like the Tripp Lite ISOBAR8ULTRA.
http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-ISOBAR8ULTRA-8-Outlet-Protector/dp/B0000511U7/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1320740165&sr=1-1
I'd look for one that has UL markings (UL Listed or UL Certified) because they've been tested by Underwriters Laboratory for safety.
See here for an example:
https://www.ul.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/ul_markshub_hero_banner_680x285.png
You can even sort by UL Listed cords at some websites like Amazon or HomeDepot.
This one is cheap but is still UL Listed.
https://www.amazon.com/GoGreen-Power-GG-13002MS-Outlet-Strip/dp/B00NY45N5G
Just one example...you could find plenty others.
Frankly though, it has less to do with the power strip/extension cord and more how it's used. They have to be allowed to dissipate heat which many people don't think about. You should never leave a cord coiled or wrapped up tightly and you definitely shouldn't cover it with anything. Let's just say you leave one coiled up and throw dirty laundry over it...the heat running through the cord has nowhere to go so the laundry will heat up and can ignite if it reaches the right temperature. I've seen it plenty of times unfortunately.
If I understand correctly, you're looking for outlets with the usual US shape and voltage (NEMA 5-15 etc.) but with a switch that controls power to each socket.
The closest thing I've seen are single switch/outlet pairs like this one, where the switch can be wired to control a separate circuit or the attached outlet. I've never seen units with two sockets and switch for each one, though I suppose you could just mount two of these side-by-side.
Another alternative would be a power-strip. I've seen several models that have a separate switch for each outlet in the strip, if that's your main goal. There's also inline switch/socket units that might meet your needs.
That's a weird thing to have read..... the UPS measures power draw, and occasionally tests battery runtime... with the two, it'll tell you how long the battery will run. Shouldn't matter how much is plugged into it....
i've got two of these mounted to my rack, and my two APCs are perfectly content powering 'em.
Now, if you have something that was turned off and gets turned on, that might screw up your runtime expectation, because you've increased the load. A Runtime test would clear it up.
> "clean up" the line and remove the noise. If you look around you also might be able to find a power strip that does this without the battery cost
Here are a couple of power line conditioners, without battery backup, that would help:
USB wall worts and something like this maybe? https://smile.amazon.com/Protector-Charging-Outlets-Extension-Controlled/dp/B0779R4879/
Not 100% sure about the timing thing however as I don't have one.
I bought this timer/power strip. It eliminates the need for a power strip. It's worked well.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009KVEENO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I got one of these for my lab. No more pulling out power cables.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BQO5S0G/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Good on you for taking such good care of your mom.
I have this Wi-Fi enabled powerbar, which lets you control the outlets via a web interface or a Windows/Mac app.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CXWS848/ref=pd_aw_sims_3?pi=SL500_SS115&simLd=1
How about this? http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000784H4K
Sorry, 30a Main, 4 20 a individual breakers as far as I can tell.
In a nutshell I just want to avoid having to unplug/plug in the appliances on a daily basis from the two available outlets. I want to leave them plunged into a power-strip that is safety rated to handle at least two of the mentioned appliances running at the same time.
I can find these products sold abroad, however I cannot find the Japanese equivalent.
Example: https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Outlet-Office-TLM615NC20/dp/B000L4D3UO
That shouldn't be too much for one source, but I would recommend getting a good surge protector (NOT a $7 power strip with little to no protection) for your home theater. Personally, I use a Tripp Lite HT10DBS with a 3840 joule surge suppression rating. Higher ratings are going to protect against stronger surges.
That said, if your receiver was the only component impacted then it's unlikely that a surge protector would have made any difference in this instance. As others have suggested, it's likely a bad capacitor was to blame.
These are the ones I use.
From the Amazon Page linked:
> 12 outlet, 15 amps. Provides no surge suppression.
The strip he linked to is only 15 amp. Someone else linked to a 20amp strip, but the outlets are really close together so you lose outlets if you have large plugs (which high draw devices are likely to have).
Looks like you need a PDU, really helps manage your power cables and such...
I like getting ones that Have switches, So I can independently shut down devices without unplugging.
Check this out
https://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PDBC70-Mountable-Protector-Control/dp/B00BQO5S0G/ref=pd_sim_147_6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=NV042NJFVRN09HEADBZX
I have those but opted for a 24-outlet power strip.
Enough space and outlets for my Home theater.
How is this any better than a hand crank generator?
https://www.amazon.com/K-TOR-Pocket-Socket-Generator-Portable/dp/B00658Z3UI#
What are the make and models of the PSUs?
Also, most 'surge protectors' don't protect against surges. this is a surge protector*.
This and things like this will do exactly fuckall.
Even the 'real' surge protector that I linked however will fail to do much if the power you are getting is just 'dirty'. Stuff like that will take the hit from say, a lightning bolt, but if that 120hz signal is wavering between 100 and 140, then your mileage may vary.
If you want real protection, get a battery backup. That'll partition your electronics away from the wall.
Hey the power bar is made by Tripp Lite I ordered mine off amazon they make them in just about any amount of outlets you need.
https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Outlet-Cabinet-PS4816/dp/B000051174?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1
Yah the Pippin is pretty cool I'm an old school apple fan but doesn't get allot of use I need to get some games for it hard to come by tho.... It does have a neat painting app tho and a few other cool apps built in.
Por US$ 5 não é filtro de linha, e sim só régua.
Por exemplo, nesse aqui está escrito claramente que é um filtro: https://www.amazon.com/VCT-Universal-Protector-Outlets-Capacity/dp/B000784H4K/ Ele até dá dados técnicos sobre a filtragem, então é um filtro.
Já esse aqui em LUGAR NENHUM do anúncio diz que é filtro: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-6-Outlet-Surge-Protector-2-Pack/dp/B014EKQ5AA/ E as vezes o ANÚNCIO diz que é "Filtro" no título, mas se for na ficha técnica ou no site do fabricante, lá NÃO dirá que é um filtro.
O que mais tem no mundo é régua/T sendo vendido como filtro. Pra ter filtragem precisa muito componente, a montagem manufaturada é demorada, não tem como chegar num custo unitário muito baixo. Pra 3-4 tomadas duvido que dê pra ficar abaixo de US$ 15 nos EUA. Regua/multiplicador é tipo extensor de tomada (Rabicho) ou cabo de força pra fonte ATX, pode custar US$ 1,99 porque é feito no injetor com forma, zero manufatura.
My girlfriend told me that at the end of the day she will buy everything in my amazon cart up to 300 dollars...
But I didn't really have anything I needed or even wanted all that bad.. Took me all day to find stuff lol.
So I got
Corsair Hydro Series H100i v2 $97
JD Fenix Limited Edition Xbox One Wireless Controller $55
Microsoft Xbox Wireless Adapter for Windows $21
Xbox One Play and Charge Kit $24
SanDisk 128GB Flash Drive $32
APC 11-Outlet Surge Protector $35
APC 8-Outlet Surge Protector $25
10 Nylon Lanyards for Small Electronic Devices $4
Still have 8 dollars left over haha.
Just wanted to give you an update.
I have lots of tripplite products so I am confident in the quality but I just remembered that they have another product that may be enough for you. Isolation transformer might be overkill but will def take care of the pops you are getting on the line from the other appliances.
They also make this product.
http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-ISOBAR8ULTRA-Isobar-Protector/dp/B0000511U7/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458406893&sr=8-1&keywords=isobar
Basically it has a coil to filter out noise which is what you want.
Just wanted to throw that out there since it may be another option as opposed to a heavy 1:1 isolation transformer.
No, but you can get a "smart" surge protector. You plug the TV into the "main" or "master" slot, then plug the Roku into one of the "controlled" slots. Then, when you turn off the TV, it will cut power to the Roku a second or so later.
The disadvantage is that the Roku will have to boot up again when you next use it, so it's not as fast as leaving it on.
Edit: I just looked online and I'm seeing a lot of new surge protectors and power strips being called "smart" because they have wifi or voice assistant compatibility; that's not what you want for this. The important feature for you is the "master" and "controlled" outlets.
I don't have experience with these specific models, but these list the features:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D3VPJIA
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002K8S2J6
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DP9M3DO
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002XDQAC4
I can improve on this LPT if you go to business conferences that are likely to have people from different countries. Buy a power strip with "universal" outlets, like this model on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/VCT-Universal-Protector-Outlets-Certified/dp/B000784H4K
They can be hard to find in the US as UL won't certify them, but are easy to find overseas. You still need an adapter to get the power strip plugged in, but once it is the strip itself takes US, UK, European, and Japanese plugs at least. That way when there is one outlet and you're the only one smart enough to have brought a strip you can plug in all your friends.
I desperately want one of these with maybe 4 outlets and no cord that could be plugged directly into the wall and would be smaller to put in a laptop bag....
Something like this.
http://www.amazon.com/K-TOR-Pocket-Socket-Generator-Portable/dp/B00658Z3UI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1454120122&sr=8-3&keywords=Hand+Crank+Generator+Portable+Power
I don't see a 9 volt battery one, but you could just plug a 9 volt battery recharger into this. (Except I think it could take 4 hours to charge up. Maybe the 30 minute recharger then?)
I bet that would work still.
Crank and supply the current of a 9 volt battery to a tDCS device while doing a tDCS session. No battery at all. Disregarding movement influencing tDCS effectiveness, that would probably work too.
>-Will the timer handle two plugs pulling a total of 300w through it?
>-Will this, along with a fan and a pump, through an extension cord draw too much from an outlet (120v)?
>-Am I going to have problems with amps, volts, watts, heat, or grounding?
You plug them into a 120Vac wall outlet (extension cord), both outputs are switched on/off together, and can deliver 120Vac 15A (1800W) total for your lights, or radio/coffee-maker at 06:00.
You need two of those, one for each 'colour' power supply (19:00-24:00 and 00:00-07:00).
The fan and pump, like the LEDs, are low(-ish) power, you can connect those via an extension cord without problems, and when done properly there is no problem with grounding.
>What is the purpose of the voltage regulators (above the obvious) and do they go before or after the power supply?
The purpose of those boost converters is to increase the voltage, like when you need 18Vdc for your laptop and only have 12V from your car battery available, you don't need them in your setup, the LEDs require 12Vdc, those power supplies already deliver that.
Power supply:
With three strings at 36W each, that 100W power supply is too small for comfort, you need two of the 200W types (what you call " 150w transformers", they already give 12Vdc).
A possible way of wiring everything:
From an existing outlet you use an extension cord that has a power strip at the end, in which you plug the two timers.
There you have the option to plug the fan/pump into 24hr/day, 19:00-24:00, or 00:00-07:00.
>How likely am I to kill myself putting this all together?
It's a real possibility, maybe not during assembly (connect the wires before you plug them in), but the power supplies do not have a decent cover on the terminal strips, you could accidentally touch them during normal use.
>What effect will having these turn on and off every day do to their longevity/safety?
Not much, if any.
>Can I run a voltage regulator lower than the voltage it is made for? What about the power supply or LEDs (under watt/volt/amp)?
Adjusting the voltage to change the LED intensity does work, sort of, down is maybe no problem (depends on the 'adjust' range of the power supply), going up a bit too far will release the magic LED smoke.
Another option is using a micro controller like an Arduino with 'driver shields', you only need one 12V-200W power supply (no timers) and can program whatever you like, timing, intensity, fan, pump, whatever (see r/arduino).
Must be a large power strip like this
> The timer though I picked up at a local Petsmart or Petco(I forget which), its a Coralife power strip.
>
Petsmart has them for sure, at least in the US. If you don't have anything you need to turn on at night, then you can buy the original.
EDIT: Just saying, it also seems pretty dumb to invest all this money in the tank but then inexplicably not buy an item you need, or to cheap out so much on CO2 that you leave the bubble counter off. ???
Here is my item.
Thanks for the contest!
Yeah, Mr. White! Yeah, science!
For 300 bucks personally I would go with decent Powered speakers. Make sure you pick up a phono preamp as well if you go this route as opposed to using an amp+passive speakers (which is much more expensive, unless you go used). That's the setup I did, minimalist, clean, decent value, but still relatively cheap. Here's my setup for example...
https://www.amazon.com/rolls-VP29-Phono-Preamp/dp/B0002BG2R2 - Rolls VP29 Phono Preamp
https://www.amazon.com/Edifier-R1700BT-Bluetooth-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B016PATXSI - Edifier R1700BT Powered Speakers with Bluetooth - For the value these sound really awesome. Only downside is there are not great with lots of bass, they flubber. In retrospect I might have gotten something different, but most stuff I listen to isn't bass heavy so I'm not torn over it. I also wanted bluetooth in this room because it's a guest room.
https://www.amazon.com/Pro-Ject-Elemental-Gray-Turntable-Grey/dp/B01CZW826Y?th=1 - Pro-Ject Elemental Turntable - Great value turntable on the low-end if you buy new.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000513O4/ - Tripp Lite Isobar surge protector - Because I'm paranoid about this stuff and these are high end surge protectors that we use at work. They are bulletproof.
----------------------------------
So anyways... for 300 bucks you can pick up the same phono preamp and these...
https://www.amazon.com/Edifier-R2000DB-Bluetooth-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B01CDU3IAI
I hear the R2000's don't have the same bass issue that the r1700 does, but they cost a lot more. Edifier is kind of one of the best in value right now, it's "Chi-Fi" good. The hardcore audiophile kiddos are often brand-whores, so take their allegiance with a grain of salt and try to remain objective, read reviews, technical analysis, etc..
https://www.amazon.com/Audioengine-A2-Powered-Speaker-System/
The A2's always get good reviews in this price range, I have no personal experience, but there are recent reviews that show problems with quality control, maybe the company is getting worse?
https://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-2017-R-14PM-Powered-Monitor/dp/B075JRF295
A lot of people swear by the Klipsch powered monitors once you get into this price range, but I don't have any personal experience, maybe someone else can chime in, just showing it here because you might want to consider it, read about them more.
https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-Signature-S20-Bookshelf/dp/B01LVWWXQG
These are just barely in the price range, definitely consider them, my friend has a Polk setup and he loves it. These seem to get good reviews from hip hop heads too, so the bass response must be good.
It really depend on your musical taste, the room, what kind of setup you are wanting to go with overall and for what purpose though. If you want to be able to handle everything, up the budget, or buy used honestly. If you stay on a small budget and buy new, you are going to have to have compromises. I was wiling to have that compromise, but others may not.
I'm basically at the same point as you are. I got my google mini for free after buying a nest protect. Since then i've been building up.
I bought a second Google Mini which is cool because you can broadcast messages from one to the other, or group them to play the same songs are alarms in different parts of the house.
I like using these two smart plugs:
Tonbux Wifi Smart Power Strip
and
Tonbux Smart Plug
These two smart plugs use the Smart Life app, which is really cool. The smart plugs let you see how much energy is being consumed (kWh), allow for scheduling, and grouping so you can turn multiple outlets on and off at the same time. You can also set up Scenes to to trigger actions when you leave the house or get back.
I use IFTTT and the app Life360 to make it so all of my lights and electronics shut off when the last person in my house leaves and to turn back on when the first person in my family returns home. Honestly, it's pretty freekin awesome.
Lastly, I am a pretty big fan of the Nest products. I only have 1 Nest Protect right now, but plan to get more Nest products when I move to a more permanent location. It's true that their products are expensive, but when it comes to the smoke and carbon monoxide sensors on the protect, the nightly promise, the ability to run diagnostics on my phone to make sure it's functioning properly, and to silence the alarm from my phone when i burn toast, it makes sense to me to invest in equipment designed to save your life.
Good luck friend! The future is now!
When I was first trying to get it to work, Radioshack was trying to get me to pick up two battery packs which held 4 AA's each. I didn't want to deal with that so I found a charger online and hardwired it into the LEDs with a small switch.
Here's the charger I used
http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KZ2ZQE8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1I mounted a
I also picked up a heavy duty mountable surge protector that I mounted on the back so I would have a convenient place to plug in the fan, freezer and LEDs. This is what I picked up for that one.
http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000513O4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This BIGGEST thing to remember is to make sure the volts and amps are enough in the plug in you are using. My LEDS need 12v and 2 amps. As far as I know, it's ok to have more amps than you need, but don't go over on volts
Vita is dual voltage. You just need an adaptor to use the European outlets.
I recommend bringing something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000784H4K?pc_redir=1405759716&robot_redir=1
But be careful that your item is dual voltage before plugging it in.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000L4D3UO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is the one I am getting.
If the power goes out a lot where you live then I would go for the UPS. If not, just get a good surge protector. This is the one I use: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0000511U7 If you get hit with a surge, just call them and they will ship you a new surge protector for free. Check the reviews too, this is the best surge protector you can buy IMHO.
I just mean a basic one like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NY45N5G/ref=s9_acsd_zgift_hd_bw_b24qw_c_x_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-8&pf_rd_r=SWG0CFJ0FEBBPPYZQ62P&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=b08e95c0-6374-50d9-af9f-1e2411f92014&pf_rd_i=495314
That's what I've brought in the past.
But I'm glad you shared you're experience. I'll definitely be more cautious about that in the future.
Ok. a bit to cover. I would strongly recommend reading your UPS manual or calling the manufacturer to see if your model can or should be running a strip off of it. usually those are made to run the receptacles on it and not strips off of them(it's why they make some with a bunch of outlets). on my other hand they have a set amount of load they can handle and you need to be careful to stay below that. a UPS can have a "constant load" and a "peak load"(just like PSU's). where a constant load can be sustained a peak load would be a stress on the system over longer periods but in short bursts it would be alright. (strain on the battery, internals, etc).
Just so we are on the same page I will get some technical stuff out of the way. "To find the maximum number of receptacles permitted on a 20-ampere breaker, divide the rating of the breaker by 1.5 amperes (20 ÷ 1.5 = 13.3 = 13). The maximum number of receptacles permitted on a 20-ampere, 120-volt breaker is 13"
Any circuit should never be loaded to more than 80% of the max load capacity. this is again due to peak load putting a lot of stress on, pretty much everything. if you have a 20A circuit then max wattage is 2400W, making safe load levels being 16A (1920W). THIS IS ALL BASED ON AMERICAN CIRCUITS. I will do UK calculations if you need. I tend to recommend going no higher then 70% where possible but never more than 90% in the worst of cases. tripping a breaker too many times also wears them down very fast, so please don't be like some I've met who just reset it a few times a week and think nothing of it. it is not a light switch, it isn't meant for lots of switching.
I'm sorry but I cannot in good conscious recommend any strip for daisy chaining. personally use this strip along with isolated ground(to get a noise-free ground return). That strip can be had a lot cheaper, just used belkin directly for this link. Use of single strips with more outlets like this is really the best you'll get me to recommend to you(and only if your circuit is meant to handle that many, or to someone who will never use more than a few at a time just needs the lenght), sorry.
surge protector should not effect load. It's devices that take in power, produce a use(heat) and then return it. More efficient devices lose less energy to heat, put the electricity to work and then return it. that is a little more in depth than I think we need to go right now though. but I mention it cause like light bulbs, more of newer, for efficient things can be on one circuit. I use to get dips in power in my garage with 10 100W bulbs and now I have 10 9W LED bulbs that run a lot better, less draw and more power for my tools and such to utilize. I hope that helps illustrate load on the system a little. otherwise "/rant" i guess.
your current set up is not good. if the only thing in you first strip is the UPS remove that strip now and consider that a UPS tends to have protections of it's own. if that still concerns you try these then the UPS and if you get the go ahead from the manual or manufacturer the strip after the UPS.
Happy with Ubiquiti mPower. 3 switched outlets (there's an 8-port as well, but at 15A, you're likely only able to run 2 PSUs off 1 strip). Power usage reporting as well.
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-mPower-3-port-Power-Wifi/dp/B00CXWS848
Anything higher than 15 Amp is going to have a high-amp 5-20P or 5-30P plug per NEMA standard so users won't plug 20A or 30A equipment into systems rated for 15A. You'd have to see if your inverter has 5-20R receptacles (the ones with a T-slotted neutral). High-amp power strips are also more expensive. Idk, just an idea for you.
Thanks for the suggestion on Visio! Never heard of it before. I was using MSPaint like a caveman.
I got this inverter, which doesn't seem to say so probably not... And this power strip.
That amazon link brought me to what I'll probably end up using: http://www.amazon.com/Prime-Wire-Cable-PBFSTAP-4-Outlet/dp/B00DUEBFHU/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1404940659&sr=8-7&keywords=Switch+Grounded
Easy solution : buy a power bar with a timer, plug the router in it, put that in a metal locking box.
Timer power bar
Metal lock box
Padlock
Pair any old ballast up with an Ubiquiti mFi device like this one
Ferrite core is a good place to start. Also if you can find a decent price on a Tripp-Lite Isobar power strip, these have EMI filters in 'em. Put one between the router and the wall. Put another between the HMW and the wall. And of course, put the HMW and the router on separate outlets, separate circuits if possible.
However, it might not actually be the wireless suffering here. I mean, 20 feet is a pretty short hop, it should make that even with a ton of interference. It might be the cable or DSL that serves the modem -- that circuit runs miles back to the provider, and might have a narrower signal margin. In that case, an Isobar between the HMW and the wall will definitely help, and to go beyond that, you'll want to talk to someone who has a clue about radio and have 'em check out your cable or DSL line.
(What they're looking for in cable: Bad or broken shield, loose connectors, ground loop between modem and entry grounding/bonding point. What they're looking for in DSL: Pair untwist at the demarc or jack, untwisted "b-wire" serving the modem, untwisted satin cord between the jack and modem itself, no splitter/filter between the DSL leg and the POTS leg.)
These are things that are a must in our house lol. Stuff you might not think of! :D
There are surge strips which have “always on” outputs. You could plug an iPod or something similar into it, it’s playing a playlist on repeat but can’t be heard until you press the switch on the surge strip to turn on your carousel and the amplifier the iPod is plugged into. The amp will have a speaker or two, maybe transducers. So when the carousel is on, so is the amp. The iPod was always playing. You wouldn’t know what song it’s on or if it’s only one song, what part of the song. But it’s an idea.
Rosewill 6 Outlet Power Strip with Individual Switches and 6-Feet Cord, RPS-200 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HTQAK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hg6uDbER22JXQ
Which do exist, not sure why building his own was worth it. http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-TLM615NC20-Power-Outlet/dp/B000L4D3UO/
I used a folding table for years. Nice once you upgrade to a desk =D
Edit: Might want to invest in an UPS and invest in something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Outlet-Cabinet-PS3612/dp/B00005115S/ref=sr_1_3?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1511444243&sr=1-3&keywords=tripp+lite It's not a surge protector but you connect it to the UPS and can plug in your devices directly to it for better cable management.
I have a power strip with 8 outlets and 7 individual switches. The other one outlet is a control outlet that can control all the rest 6 outlets when you set the 6 outlets to "switched" mode. You can also charge USB devices as well.
https://www.amazon.com/BESTEK-8-Outlet-Individual-Protector-Extension/dp/B01DP9M3DO
Of course, you can also find one with both controlled outlets and normal outlets. Hope it can help you.
I use one of these https://www.amazon.com/APC-8-Outlet-Protector-SurgeArrest-P8U2/dp/B017VXT1E4
Also has 2 USB chargers so that's nice
I used this power strip when I set up my aquarium. I also had a GFCI outlet installed where the power strip plugs in.
Splicing together the 120v inputs is a no-no. It would technically work, but certainly is not safe or to code. Also, any damage caused by a fire resulting from a spliced cord would probably not be covered by your home/renters insurance.
Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:
Link: 24-outlet power strip
|Country|Link|
|:-----------|:------------|
|UK|amazon.co.uk|
|Spain|amazon.es|
|Germany|amazon.de|
|Canada|amazon.ca|
|Italy|amazon.it|
This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting).
Actually, just found this old thread on Ars of someone with my exact same motherboard, case, and power supply (kinda freaky IMO). Looks like his fix was a Hum-X... not sure if that's worth the investment or if I should just get a decent surge protector with noise filtration. Something like this Isobar?
Buy a Tripplite surge protector. They're extremely high quality and their warranty will cover up to $50,000 of damage if a surge damages any equipment plugged into it. I work in scientific research, and my old lab had every rig plugged into one for noise reduction and surge protection with the warranty.
They're heavy, and a fair deal more expensive than most surge protecters, but it's well worth it in my opinion, for just the situation you've encountered.
I believe they also have models that accept ethernet.
Nice build. I'd recommend an UPS or at least a better surge protector.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006B81J/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_pP9.tb1YT03ZS
If your aim is just to power on/off these devices, you could use a master slave power strip, something like this: https://www.amazon.com/BESTEK-Protector-Extention-Energy-Saving-Individual/dp/B01DP9M3DO/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=master+slave&qid=1568905158&s=electronics&sr=1-10
I just researched the power strip I have: https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Outlet-Cabinet-PS3612/dp/B00005115S/ref=sr_1_11?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1491072560&sr=1-11&keywords=tripp+lite
And I found out it has no surge suppresion. Would this be the problem?
it's a rack mounted power strip
What I would do in your situation is get the magni 2 uber but also get a foot switch so you can turn off your speakers easily. If you don't get the foot switch you will have to get up and turn your speakers off every time you want to listen to headphones. You will still have to unplug your headphones when you switch to speakers but this way you can easily turn you speakers on and off. I hope that makes since. The modi and magni aren't the best solution for powered monitors as they have limited outputs. If the modi 2 had two outputs I would recommend getting a separate pre-amp but that is not the case. Also this way you will be getting a more powerful headphone amp for the same cost.
I don't like the analog timers because they make clicky noises. I've also been through A LOT of various timers on Amazon because I own 2 auto cat feeders along with my multitude of reptile lights. I will break down my experience for you:
Enover TS18 Digital Timer -- I needed this for my triple-prong power strip and it worked for a couple months but then started turning the "random" feature on by itself and wouldn't turn off in the evening. Junked.
Westek TE08WHB Timer Strip -- I really like this one and I still use it for a couple of my cages. I like that 4 are timed and 4 are always on. NOTE though that when the power goes out this does NOT keep the time and will reset, which is very annoying.
WenTop Digital Timer -- I used this one for my single cat feeder for awhile, but it eventually stopped working for some reason. I never figured out why but it stopped turning anything on. Junked.
Century Digital Timer -- I bought a second feeder and needed a timer that had 2 outlets. This one has worked well so far, but you may just need a single outlet.
Woods 50006WD Analog Timer -- I still use these when my digital timers break lol. Honestly, they're really reliable, they just make that clicky sound that drives me nuts. But it's a great deal if you're just looking for something that works with no frills.
Nearpow Digital Timer -- My most recent purchase. I've only been using it for a few weeks but has been working fine. It has a bunch of settings, I have no idea what all of them do, I just need it to turn the lights off and on lol.
Hi i would like to know if this is worth it https://www.amazon.ca/APC-8-Oultet-Protector-SurgeArrest-P8U2/dp/B017VXT1E4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1542745407&sr=8-1&keywords=P8U2 recently put a lot of money into my pc and im wondering if it's worth protecting my investment with such a device, feel free to recommend another model, thanks in advance :)
Personally I'm not a big fan of just power strips because most of them don't do much to protect your PC. So it depends on how good the power is in your home and how much you're willing to spend. If you have good clean power and rarely experience brownouts/blackouts then I would recommend a decent APC surge protector like this one. If however you have had a few brownouts/blackouts and/or would like your PC to maintain power should one occur then I would recommend an APC UPS. How much you spend will be dependent on how long of a battery backup you want. This one would give you a good 5 - 10 minutes (approximately, depending on your PC) of power while this one would give you around 30 minutes.
Don't say they don't make them big enough. THEY MAKE THEM BIG ENOUGH
On the much lower end, something like this (http://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-6-Outlet-Individual-Switches-RPS-200/dp/B005HTQAK8) will suit your needs perfectly, and set you back a whopping $12.
Doesn't really seem like a deal, I bought a very similar one (99% sure it's a generic rebrand item) but with 3x 2.4A USB-A ports for $14.99.
It's good if you need a few outlets and some USB ports but that's really about it. It's not particular good bang for your buck IMO, the one I got I replaced with an APC 12-outlet surge protector with 2 USB charging ports.
The APC 12-Outlet Surge Protector Power Strip with USB Charging Ports, 2160 Joules, SurgeArrest Home/Office (PH12U2), right now it's going for $23.68 with a $5 clippable coupon on Amazon which brings the total to $20.69 with free Prime shipping and CA sales tax. I paid $35 for mine at my local computer store :/
I had the same problem. On one of my televisions I was able to plug my Roku stick into a powered USB. When the TV shuts off, so does the Roku. My other, older TV doesn't have the powered USB. I bought this power strip that has a option to turn off certain devices if the master outlet isn't drawing power. Works great.
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-mPower-3-port-Power-Wifi/dp/B00CXWS848
Buy this, set up on your home network, now you can turn your PSU on and off from your phone, measure power usage, and control other things. They work great
Non mobile link:
http://www.amazon.com/VCT-Universal-Protector-Outlets-Capacity/dp/B000784H4K
This is the answer I figured I would get! Thanks for that advice. I should hire an electrician.
If that’s not possible in the near future, would you kind help with something else? Looking at my driver, which is a MeanWell HLG-185H-C1400B and runs two cobs at 36V (or so says the specs).
How do I take those specs and compare them to 15 amps surge protector? Like this.
Or is anything I buy on amazon not enough protection? Thanks again for your help.
I use this:
https://www.amazon.com/TONBUX-Multiple-Protector-Certified-Schedule/dp/B0779R4879
You can set multiple on/off times for each individual plug in (excluding the USB ports which can only have one setting).
I have my lights, Co2, power head, and skimmer hooked up to it and use the Smart Life app (iOS) to run the setup.
How about one of these?
GoGreen Power GG-13002MS 3 Outlet Power Strip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NY45N5G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_QWlPzbAGFMFMQ
You actually unplug from the wall? Get one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Prime-Wire-Cable-PBFSTAP-4-Outlet/dp/B00DUEBFHU/
The only thing that comes to mind is a long power strip like https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Outlet-Cabinet-PS3612/dp/B00005115S
You would be better off with a power strip with individual switching.
https://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PDBC70-Mountable-Protector-Control/dp/B00BQO5S0G/ref=br_lf_m_ujd2t4axkp9qwn8_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&s=aht
Damn I really don't understand this stuff. Also it sounds like maybe you're talking about modifying a homes circuitry(?) and I'm a renter so that's a no go.
Now I'm getting super skeptical of all these Surge Protectors though..
What about this one does it seem ok? It's got a pretty high Joules rating (high number=good right?) and a supposed $50,000 equipment warranty. That all sounds pretty spankin' to me...
I actually had everything plugged into one of the Tripp-Lite Isobar Surge Suppressors, so perhaps I should take my claim up through them. I've read that those types of surge suppressors aren't really that effective, but it looks like they have a lifetime warranty, so it might be worth checking out.
I agree with your rational regarding upgrading my MB. I'll see if I can't find a test bench somewhere to swap in my hardware and make sure everything is working as expected.
Step 1. Get my Bike
Step 2. Get the hand powered generator
Step 3. Combine the two. You now have power to charge things, and then find a real generator and some gas.
Step 4. Load backpack standard survival supplies (I don't think we need to go into detail on this one anymore)
Step 5. Wing it.
uh.. power strip with switches on it?
like this https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-6-Outlet-Individual-Switches-RPS-200/dp/B005HTQAK8
Would this be a good one? http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Protector-Network-HT10DBS/dp/B0002QPC28
Thank you so much for the help!
Smart Power Strip WiFi Plug TONBUX Multiple Outlet Surge Protector USB Bar & FCC Certified Remote Control Timing Schedule Voice Control with Alexa Echo Google Home IFTTT Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0779R4879/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SyD4DbGJHEXZM
You could get something like this, that allows each individual plug to be controlled. I have a meross outdoor plug that I use for Christmas lights and both plugs are independent.
Can this onekeep parts from getting fried, if lightning strikes?
For the $50,000-insurance'd surge protectors it's not a consumer brand. We work in manufacturing and maintenence will only order those surge protectors. They are pricey (like 55 bucks for an 8 port I think), but they've basically been really good at what they do for decades.
https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Protector-Right-Angle-ISOBAR6ULTRA/dp/B0000511U7
Just figured I'd add that if you were looking for more info on why Tripp Lite seems to have a good reputation in the industry.
What about this one? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N1XHHMD/
Why do you have a lot of extension cords? Do you need to better distribute power with a long power-strip pole or a spring-driven power reel mounted overhead?
I'm using one of these and a bunch of 6-inch pigtails to stand off the adapters when necessary.
And my Sega Tower has its own strip daisy chained off of this thing.
Counting each member of the Tower separately, I have 15 systems connected.
It's convenient because I can stand it up behind my system shelves and the outlets space out pretty evenly with the shelves.
Okay I have a few things I think would be good to have. First of all target sells these amazing sheet sets. They're inexpensive and they last a long time. Whether you're dorming or not its good to have one of these. Do yourself a favor and get one of these and maybe one of these as well so you're not fighting over plugs. I see you play some instruments so its good to have some of these. Do yourself a favor and get one of these but this one may be better for you. This would be great for all your laundry and accessories. And last but not least this is an amazing desk to have for your computer and books (plus its free shipping :D).
If I win I'd love this and this
Would you like a falafel with that?
so are you not recommending surge protectors? what do you recommend? are you saying something like this is worthless?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000511U7/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I bought one of these a while back for my home theater. Since nothing in my setup draws a lot of power, it's perfect.
How necessary is the ground plug?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008NCDUKY/ref=redir_mdp_mobile?ref_=pd_sxp_grid_i_2_1
Edit: Or try
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DUEBFHU/ref=pd_aw_sbs_hi_37
Although you have most likely already found a solution, I highly suggest these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00006B81J/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Built a game room similar to this and I've powered it with those for about 4 years and it still works! Best part is the on/off switch has a plastic casing around it which for me protects it against the cat!
Cheers!
I know this isn't the sub for this, but dunno where to ask. Going to Macedonia for 3 weeks, and want to be able to plug all my shit in flawlessly. Will this work?
Ill try it out thanks. It makes A little sense. And appearantly they're actually called surge protectors. Been calling then multitaps my entire life :p
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0000AI0N1/ref=s9_top_hm_b3C6a_g23_i3
Think about getting a third sawhorse and putting it under the back of your desk. This will give extra support for the center under the monitors. Setting back will get it away from your feet.
Think about adding a multi-outlet power strip. Either on the top if you plug/unplug a lot or underneath if you have things just stay plugged in. I really like this Tripp Lite Power Strip.
Doors also work well. Solid doors are going to more stable. Hollow doors make it easier to move, set up, and take down. I have two that I use for temporary horizontal space any time I need it.
Could probably find out here
Also would this Power strip work in the dorms?
This APC one is very light, so velcro or command strips would work. I still put 2 screws into the desk.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017VXT1E4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Use this link to the same product on Amazon and they'll donate some of their profit to the XXXXXX:
Boop beep - I'm a bot that converts Amazon links to their Amazon Smile program. Up vote me if you find me useful, or down vote me for me to delete my post.
Just get an outlet timer.
For crickets yes because they will bite your sleeping chameleon. Most others are fine to put in before the lights go on. I like to let them hunt rather than give a feeding cup but a feeding cup will work.
Check this out. Plug a regular fan in and hit the switch when you're in the Rift:
http://www.amazon.com/Prime-Wire-Cable-PBFSTAP-4-Outlet/dp/B00DUEBFHU/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1406925783&sr=8-4&keywords=floor+switch
This. But when the comic or show is just too good to ignore I'm forced to snag individual issues/episodes as soon they drop (digital or hard-copy).
THEN, if I hypothetically would need this particular series should I be, say, stranded on a deserted island forever with my chosen selections (or the apocalypse occurs and all electricity stops working indefinitely), I'll grab the TPB or box-set to extend the life of the tangible product.
This leads me to my next concern. You may have asked, "How can I watch/read digital things in these unsavory hypothetical scenarios without electricity?"
I'd recommend a tablet PC, external usb storage devices, and one of these bad boys: http://www.amazon.com/K-TOR-Pocket-Socket-Generator-Portable/dp/B00658Z3UI
Because really... you'll wish you had.
Tell that to the tech that specifically told me that I could plug it into my Tripp Lite surge protector. If any technician roaming these parts can confirm, this is the surge protector I use: Tripp Lite HT10DBS
I got myself one of these.
My wife has one of these.
Don't hate me because I have some sense and can recognize the value of common, everyday things which saves me from having to reinvent the wheel.
this is for iphone correct? get a charger and if you dont have space get one of these https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Outlet-Individual-Switches-RPS-200/dp/B005HTQAK8