(Part 2) Best power tool parts & accessories according to redditors

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We found 5,665 Reddit comments discussing the best power tool parts & accessories. We ranked the 2,619 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.

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Subcategories:

Air tool parts & accessories
Power tool accessory jigs
Power lathe parts & accessories
Power tool lubricants
Power rotary tool parts & accessories
Router parts & accessories
Power shaper accessories
Vacuum & dust collector accessories
Power drill parts & accessories
Saw blades, parts & accessories
Power tool batteries & chargers
Power fastening tool parts & accessories
Power finishing tool parts & accessories
Power tool stands & mobile bases
Woodworking projects plans & kits
Power oscillating tool accessories
Sand blaster accessories
Power tool replacement parts
Power blower replacement parts
Power milling machine replacement parts

Top Reddit comments about Power Tool Parts & Accessories:

u/anotherjunkie · 74 pointsr/pics

Can you not use a pin vice? Pretty much all hobby shops sell them, and they're used for drilling super the super tiny holes needed to pin modified models, etc., with bits available in all sorts of sizes.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001RJE3X8/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1474249537&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=mini+pin+vise&dpPl=1&dpID=51qOueQLNmL&ref=plSrch

u/PTVA · 30 pointsr/specializedtools

It is no no where near $800 to fix the saw once triggered. I got a few cartridges last year for like $70 each.

*edit to prove the troll below wrong

Saw stop cartridge purchasable today with free shipping for $79
https://www.amazon.com/SawStop-TSBC-10R2-Cartridge-10-Inch-Blades/dp/B001G9MGZQ

u/hansmoman · 24 pointsr/MachinePorn

The false positives can be problem and the cartridges are somewhat expensive. I've seen a few guys trade them back for regular saws. When the patent expires maybe the prices will come down a bit, because it is a pretty nice tool.

u/natestovall · 23 pointsr/woodworking

Don't do this. Please do not do this.

You would get better results with some guides (like this or this) and a couple of sawhorses for the larger cuts. For smaller cuts I would use a miter box or a bench hook and a hand saw.

Designing and building a fence system that would stay parallel to the blade would take too long. If it is not perfectly parallel, or moves while cutting you are going to pinch the wood you are ripping. This is going to result in a board being rammed into your stomach, or a circular saw breaking free of its mount and flying around with a spinning blade. Either way, you are going to have a bad day.

u/erichkeane · 17 pointsr/woodworking

I LOVE the Bosch 1617 kit. Lowes occassionally has it on sale for $189. There are a few others in that price range that are also worth it I believe.

Some Router tips:
1- NEVER buy a cheap one. An underpowered router, or one that isn't made true will ruin your project. As tempting as a $30 HF router is, all it will do is trash your work.
2- Get one where the fixed base has an adjustment from below the router. This will more easily allow you to make it into a router table down the line.
3- Get something that does a 1/2" shank. 1/4" shank bits ARE available for a lot of things, but you'll break them (and thus whatever they shoot off into, such as projects, tools, body parts) way more often.
4- Get A LOT of clamps. Don't rout anything where you're taking off a lot of material (such as a dado/rabbet) without it being VERY well clamped down. Err on the side of caution, routers can kick back light things really easily
5- This set of bits here: https://www.amazon.com/MLCS-8377-15-Piece-Router-Carbide-Tipped/dp/B000FJRN8S is a good starting place. When you find yourself using one of those bits A LOT, invest in a Freud/Rockler/etc bit.

u/dsmproject · 16 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

3m eraser wheel is the right tool for the job!

http://www.amazon.com/3M-03612-Adhesive-Eraser-Wheel/dp/B005RNGN8I

u/Sazzzzzzzzzzz · 16 pointsr/mbti
u/javelin1814 · 15 pointsr/AskReddit

Same here. My best gift so far has been this:

http://www.amazon.com/Makita-LCT200W-18-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Cordless/dp/B000V2DSE2

Awesome. Just awesome.

u/Gullex · 14 pointsr/todayilearned

You're confusing "blade cartridge" with "brake cartridge".

This is not a blade.

"Compatible with all standard 10 inch blades".

u/AnnaPea · 14 pointsr/femalefashionadvice

DeWalt power drill with bit set and angle adaptor. Perfect set for someone newly living on their own or for someone who just doesn't have their own power drill. The angle adaptor is particularly handy.

u/godfetish · 14 pointsr/techsupportmacgyver

Looks like they hacked the 18v to 20v adapter, but I don't know if they hard wired into the vacuum or what after that. https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-18v-20v-Adapter-DCA1820/dp/B016K1UD0E/

u/waltwalt · 13 pointsr/educationalgifs

https://www.amazon.com/SawStop-TSBC-10R2-Cartridge-10-Inch-Blades/dp/B001G9MGZQ

$63 for the brake cartridge plus whatever the blade costs, a good 10" blade could cost $100 so $200 was a decent guess.

To be fair though those table saws can cost $10,000 if you get them industrial sized and all tricked out.

u/constantino1 · 10 pointsr/woodworking

definitely not that. Bosch bits arent even that good, and that price is astronomical. I think that seller is offering it well over retail if I had to guess.

Get 1/2" shanks whenever possible.

I started with this set

http://www.amazon.com/MLCS-8377-15-Piece-Router-Carbide-Tipped/dp/B000FJRN8S/ref=sr_1_3?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1465239946&sr=1-3&keywords=router+bit+set

Its decent, it covers most of the bases without being wasteful with stuff you'll never use.

I have added to my collection with frued bits when I find that I use it alot, roundover, flush trim, straight bits mostly. And then some others that werent in the set.

u/ListenHereYouLittleS · 10 pointsr/woodworking

Hand saw . $31.66

Dovetail saw / fine saw $26.97

Japanese hand plane $55.35

Chisels $39.99


Combo Square $9.98

stropping compound $12.95

Sharpening Sandpaper $8.99

$185.89 total (excluding taxes). And you still have some left over for some coffee -- you're going to need some b/c learning to sharpen blades/chisels and turning/using a japanese plane is fairly uphill battle for a beginner. But this list is unquestionably your best bang for your buck.

u/adiaa · 8 pointsr/turning

I have the round and the square from Rockler. Now that I have a decent set of bowl gouges (and I'm focusing mainly on bowls) I don't really use them much any more. I have found that I can get a much better (smoother) surface from a shearing cut. I very much prefer this to the surface you get with the scraping cut you must use with most carbide tools of this shape. That said, I'm keeping mine for the occasions that I need to do some spindle work.


In hindsight, I'm not sure I would have bought them if I had it to do over again. I started with a standard $70 amazon set of old school chisels (see below). I wish I had skipped straight from that to the good stuff (some examples listed below).



Apologies if this next section is a little pedantic. I was hoping to write something we could link from the sidebar.



So here's my recommendation:

Step | Description | URL
:------|:------|:------|
1 | Find some cheap (but not crappy) tools. | amazon link
1a | Figure out how to sharpen things. |
2 | Experiment, figure out what works, figure out what kind of turning you want to be doing. | Join the AAW, Find tutorials on youtube.com, take classes at your local woodworking store, etc.
3 | Find great tools. You don't want to spend a ton of time working with crappy tools. | when possible all my future tools will be from this guy: http://d-waytools.com/tools-gouges.html I also have tools from Sorby, Pinnacle, DWay, etc.

u/Silound · 8 pointsr/turning

Cheap tools. Cheapest of the cheap. I don't even see them labeled as HSS. They're probably some really soft carbon steel.

See how straight and clean that snap line is? Almost perfectly perpendicular to the steel bar. I'd bet money that the break line is approximately even with where the steel stock was tempered to. My guess is when you got the tool far enough out over the tool rest, it snapped. Modest quality tools are tempered a few inches; good tools are usually tempered most of the usable length.

If you want a good set of HSS entry-level tools, check out this set which is well reviewed and commonly recommended.

Edit to add: I would toss those tools in the interest of safety. If one is willing to snap like that, others might be equally as brittle. Too much liability for my tastes.

u/MEatRHIT · 8 pointsr/MachinePorn

The brake is $65 and most of the time you'll want to replace the blade as well which is going to be anywhere from 50 to 150.

u/magespooks · 8 pointsr/woodworking

I agree with most of what has been suggested here. A microjig Gripper, a better saw blade, the one that comes with the saw is crap. A dado set. He can make push sticks, I like the ones I made better than the store bought. You could also get him a gift card to a hardwood store or HD/Lowes so he can buy lumber or anything else he needs.

u/Abrakastabra · 8 pointsr/battletech

For starters, what condition are the miniatures in? Are they packaged still? Assembled but not painted? Are they painted already? Depending on where they're at will determine what you need to do first, so let's assume the worst and go on to the better.

If a figure is already assembled, you'll want to disassemble it. The best way to get the glue off in my experience is to soak the figure over night in acetone. When you pull it out, the glue should be easy to get off. You can generally find acetone in large volumes at hardware stores in the paint section. You can store the acetone and figures in a glass jar or any plastic container that has the recycling logo on it with a number 5 in it and PP underneath it.

If a figure is already painted, you'll then need to get the paint off, without damaging the figures. The best way I've found to do this is with Purple Power, which you can generally find at automotive stores: http://www.clean-rite.com/purplepower_industrial_strength_cleaner_degreaser.html. You can use the same type of container for this as the one mentioned above. Let the figures soak for a day or so, and use a junk toothbrush to get any leftover paint off.

Now that you've got the figures cleaned, you need to prime them. You don't need anything special for this, as long as it's good for metal, however, I recommend a spray on primer. My personal preference is Krylon's general purpose primer, and I prefer gray as opposed to white. You can usually get this in the same place you get your acetone, or you can get it at a hobby shop. http://www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Hobbies/Stencils-Craft-Paints/Spray-Paint/Gray-Krylon-Indoor/Outdoor-Spray-Primer/p/1357

The next step is to get the rest of your supplies:

Super Glue: Can't put minis together without glue! I just use a bottle of Gorilla Super Glue. http://www.gorillatough.com/gorilla-super-glue

Painting palette: My preference is to use a wet palette for painting but there's definitely a benefit for having a dry palette available as well. Here's a link to a video on making a wet palette and the benefits of it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5FmxJdZdKdc. In here, they use one from a manufacturer, and it's nice because it's easily closed, but you can just as easily and super cheap with a plastic plate (dollar store), and using a paper towel instead of a sponge. Just cut the paper towel to size, soak it, have a little extra water in there and put the parchment paper down, then add more water. This is what I personally do, and just stick it in the fridge when I'm not using it. If you have an option to make one that you can put a cover on though, that'd be best. For a dry palette, you can just get something like a ceramic tile from the hardware store for like, a dollar or less, and it's super easy to clean.

Brushes: You probably don't want/need to spend a lot on brushes, especially starting out. I'd recommend a few cheap brushes, generally you want the brush sizes to probably be between 20/0 to 2, and also get a small flat brush, preferably with a cat's tongue tip, but it's not necessary, as long as it's flat. It'll be very useful for dry brushing. My recommendation would probably be to get a variety of brushes from Atlas Brush Company: http://www.atlasbrush.com/brush-sets. I'd recommend Style 255-3PS, Style 55, and Style 58A. When your brushes start getting hard to work with, you can usually stick the tips in boiling water for a bit to get them back to shape.

Paints, Washes and Varnish: A lot of people prefer either Vallejo paints or Citadel paints by Games Workshop. My preference, especially since I use a wet palette, is to use Vallejo, though I use some Games Workshop paint as well.

In addition to this, you'll probably want some washes. I don't actually have experience with Vallejo washes - I've only used Games Workshop, but I prefer the washes in the type of container that Citadel uses as opposed to droppers, since I apply them direct from the container. I'd recommend at least Nuln Oil from them if you go with Citadel Games, though I'm sure a black wash from Vallejo is perfectly fine.

Citadel also has Dry paints, which are supposed to be good for dry brushing, but I've not had any experience with them. They may be a good idea for you as a beginner, since you'll probably not have very good technique when you first try to dry brush (I found myself, and still do a lot of times, using too much paint). You can usually find these paints at hobby stores, but at the worst case, you can pick them up cheap on eBay. There are sellers on eBay that have pick-your-selection listings, just search Vallejo Pick and you'll have results.

You'll also want a varnish to seal your piece when you're done. I prefer to use two coats - the first one glossy, then the second one matte.

I recommend you get at least the following: White, Black, Red, Blue, Yellow, Green, Brown, Silver, Matt Varnish, Gloss Varnish, Black Wash

Flocking and Turf: Far from necessary, but if you want to make your bases have that grassy look to them, you'll need this. I use Coarse Turf - Yellow Grass, and then just soak it in the appropriate watered down paint, dry it out, and glue it on with Elmer's Glue. This stuff is generally available at hobby stores. http://www.sceneryexpress.com/YELLOW-GRASS-COARSE-TURF/productinfo/WD0061/

Antennas: A lot of BattleTech minis, especially older ones, should have antennas on them. If you have loose figures, the odds are they have been lost and you'll need to replace them. I've found staples work very well for this. If they're still in the package, you'll see a thin metal piece in there that looks like mechanical pencil lead; you'll just need to cut it to size for your mini. Additionally, these are pretty fragile once you glue them onto the mini unless you put a hole in the mini for it to go in. The best thing for this is to use a Pin Vise and drill bits http://www.amazon.com/CML-Supply-Micro-Drill-Chuck/dp/B001RJE3X8. However, I've gotten by just fine using a safety pin and thumb tack.

Files and razor blades: You may need some files and razor blades to get rid of flash (pieces of metal from the vent holes in the mold that may be attached to the figure still) and seam lines. http://www.amazon.com/ELMERS-X-Acto-Knife-Silver-X3602/dp/B000V1QV7O. Personally, I've gotten by with just the piece on my nail clippers that's there to clean and file your nails with.

Water dish: You'll need something to put your paint water in. I use 3 dishes: One for clean water, one for paint water, and one with water and dish soap in it.

Mini stand: You'll generally want to have something to put your mini on while you work with it. If you don't, you'll end up rubbing the paint and primer off of it while you hold it to turn it while you paint. This can be just about anything. My preference is to use something about the diameter of a hex that's a couple inches tall and use Velcro.

Now, you need to figure out what the hell you're doing with all this stuff. I'm far from an expert painter, and I've learned most of my techniques watching videos. You can find a lot of information on YouTube. Here is some good stuff to start off with: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL10C32CB2CD611E84

Hopefully this helps!

EDIT: I'm not the best best painter, in fact I'm still pretty new to this myself, having painted probably just under a dozen minis myself. However, I figured that'd probably put me in a good position to answer your questions as someone who's coming from the same place you're coming. That being said, this is my most recent piece - I just finished the base and varnishing it yesterday: https://imgur.com/a/Vj6fI (Unseen Battlemaster)

u/BarryLincoln · 8 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

I got this one a couple years ago for a specific job and have since found myself using it quite often. I actually just used it today! It works great. The day it breaks, I'll be buying another one immediately.

u/CuriosityKTCat · 8 pointsr/PipeTobacco

Thanks! This one was all done by hand.

Best approach I have found with oxidation is to submerge and soak the stem in a mixture of white distilled vinegar and baking soda. Cheap, natural and non-toxic!! You want the solution to bubble and fizz during the majority of the soak (so use a good amount of baking soda in the bottom of your container and a lot of patience filling it). I will use a pipe cleaner to suspend the stem over a small Mason jar and keep the tenon out of the solution. Make sure you have cleared the airway as much as you can. You will want to see bubbles coming out through the lip as it soaks. You can soak for 1hr to overnight (this soak won't hurt anything)

Wet sand with the flat sodium bicarbonate starting with 400 and progress to 800 grit sandpaper (depending on patience level and depth of oxidation). Finish with micromesh pads (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJC156U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xOjezb9NYZ9K6) Wet sand with flat sodium bicarbonate with first three, and dry sand with the rest). I usually apply olive oil between every 3 pads. :)

I finish with Howard Butcher Block Conditioner (Food grade mineral oil and natural waxes found at Home Depot). Allow it to soak in and buff with a micromesh towel. Others can use just olive oil or carnauba wax and a buffing wheel. Some believe you shouldn't use wax at all.

u/bad-coffee · 8 pointsr/golf

Found an old Ping Anser 3 at a thrift shop for $2.49. So why not!

Materials used:

20 oz Coke $1.75

Pack of assorted wet/dry sandpaper $8 All the grits are packed together, so the sheets all need rinsing before use.

3M scrubby dremel tips. Used a couple of these for hard-to-get areas, but the sandpaper worked much better for the large surfaces.

Brass Black $8


First step was to see how it was under 30+ years of oxidation. 24 hour soak in coke, then hit with a scrubby.

Next came the sanding. LOTS of sanding.

Started with 220, so I didn't take off too much material, and moved up from there - 400/800/1000/1500/2000. A good rinse and dry with an old t-shirt between each grit keeps from scratching up all the hard work.

I was going to go up to 3000 grit, but couldn't keep from scratching it up after 2000. Yeah, I could have buffed it to a mirror shine, but that had a good chance of softening all the edges. I didn't want a 'blobby' putter.

A bit of acetone on a q-tip removed the old sight line.

Next step was an alcohol bath. 99% isopropyl because that's what I had lying around. A hot water rinse and a good shake dry followed.

Into a ziplock bag it went with some of the Brass Black. Squished it around to get even coverage. Rinsed, dried, and left for 24 hours. Then repeat.

In reality, the next step was to sit the putter on my desk and forget to send it back to Ping. But we're gonna skip that step here.

The putter was shipped back to Ping on a Friday. The rep who called was super cool, and said it wouldn't take to long to put a new shaft and grip on and ship it back. Total cost about $61.

This putter is awesome. First round with it and I scored my lowest ever with an 82* (Par 64 course, so it's only bogey golf. But still lowest score for 18!)

Cheers

u/perrykissacock · 7 pointsr/balisong

If you're goiong to be spending that much money on a knife, you should get a good set of torx drivers to work on them with.

u/kernelhappy · 7 pointsr/woodworking

I'll probably get run out of town for saying it, but, if you're going to do more of this kind of a project, get yourself one of these or one of these.

No pocket screws aren't as strong as joinery, but for these kind of projects they're fast and work well enough and they'll last longer than the plates/L brackets you used.

u/kramithefrog · 6 pointsr/GoRVing

Just go but an easy out set.
IRWIN Screw Extractor/ Drill Bit Set, 10-Piece (11119) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002NYBH8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GK.BDb32A3JAT

This might be a better set.

8 piece Screw Extractor Set,Damaged Screw Broken Bolt Water Pipe Remover Set By Nizzco https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075TY8Y87/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_m0.BDbDKJD770

u/NO_TOUCHING__lol · 6 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

Get the tools in the picture. They're great, and relatively cheap.

u/khanable_ · 6 pointsr/ender3

Outside of the things others have mentioned (springs, tubing, couplers, SKR, BMG, etc.) - if you don't already have some good tools/spare parts you can use this time to invest in some.

u/jvorn · 6 pointsr/DIY

I'll never fault someone for erring on the side of caution, and it only has to save you once for the 2k to be worth it, but all you really need is something like this - where the blade passes under the tool.

u/hvacbandguy · 6 pointsr/electricians

Right angle attachment. I have the dewalt one. They sell it at home depot. They work great. I recommend getting one if you don't have one.

DEWALT DWARA100 Right Angle Attachment https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C0VSNKQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_euWnyb1Q21X15

u/Bauer22 · 6 pointsr/DumpsterDiving

Another trick to keep in mind if the batteries are dead is that they sell adapters to use the newer 20v batteries in the older 18v tools like this. They seem to hold a charge better and longer.

u/CybranKNight · 5 pointsr/Warhammer40k

Just aim to buy drill bits the same size as the magnets you plan to use. I've been using K&J and picked this set up and I've not been having any problems, it's also nice for drilling out gun barrels and the like thanks to the variety of sizes it has.

u/infamousnj69 · 5 pointsr/bikewrench

Yeah that hole doesn't look too good TBH. Hopefully it didn't damage the threads. The smallest one in the kit I showed you has a minimum of 2.5mm but it should still work on the 2mm screw. You can also find a spare 2mm allen key you don't need and use the strongest Gorilla glue you can find and glue it onto the screw. Slowly try to unscrew it after an hour or so. Take it to your LBS and see if they can help. There's also this which goes as low as M3

Edit. Just looked at the other angle pic you posted. Screw extractor most likely won't work. Try the allen key method.

u/darkehawk14 · 5 pointsr/woodworking

What kind of router did you get? And what is the collett size?

I bought this set from amazon and love it. It's got the basics you will need for starting out. And, as /u/snuffvieh said, get specialty bits as you need them. But get the quality ones, then.

As for a router table, I had a cabinet I made and put a router table top, Number 6 plan on this list on top of it. I took the drawer out of the top of the cabinet and put in a tip out. Not the best of plans, because shavings get caught in there really fast.

u/DavidPx · 5 pointsr/turning

The expert advice is to not buy a set but to instead only buy chisels for what you'll be doing. However if you're exploring turning you really don't know the exact kinds of turning you'll be doing, and you'll always be reading about oddball tools/techniques that you'll want to try.

So I'd advise a starter set that has at least one of each major tool type. This one fits that bill pretty well, I started out with it an still use everything but the "continental gouge".

u/windblast · 5 pointsr/MachinePorn

Did a quick Google hunt, seems you can get a 10" SawStop cartridge as cheap as $70 on Amazon, but the specialty ones seem to be slightly more expensive.

u/joelav · 5 pointsr/woodworking
u/Chrystine · 5 pointsr/KingdomDeath

I have all of the resources booked marked and ready to go. Plan on starting this project when Spring rolls in. Hope these helps!

Hand drill I purchased:

http://www.amazon.com/Mini-Micro-Drill-Vise-Chuck/dp/B001RJE3X8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1451452019&sr=8-3&keywords=pin+vise

Magnetizing guides:

http://macharianthunderguard.blogspot.com/2015/09/kingdom-death-monster-unboxing-and.html

http://roguepainter.com/kingdom-death-survivor-magnetization-tutorial/

Magnets I plan on purchasing (also used in the guides):

1x1mm

^ Woops the 1x1mm I linked are sold out. But you can look up and buy any 1x1mm neodymium magnets on ebay.

1x2mm

2x2mm

u/wichenstaden · 5 pointsr/modelmakers

Yeah, I would think that it would work fine. Just attach a regulator with a water trap to the beginning of the line going to your compressor. Edit: to your airbrush.

https://www.amazon.com/PointZero-Airbrush-Compressor-Regulator-Water-Trap/dp/B004KNAHE2

u/are_you_high · 5 pointsr/AutoDetailing

I just recently removed my side panels on my '06 Silverado which were held to the body by this kind of adhesive. This shit is amazingly difficult to remove, so I asked around on some forums. Conclusion: The 3M Adhesive Eraser Wheel It's probably a little overkill for a small patch like this but if you, in the future, run into a lot of adhesive, use this thing. It was worth every single penny.

u/Dinahmoe · 5 pointsr/classiccars

If the paint came off with glue, you are screwed, the paint sucks and needs to be redone. When I needed to get a piece off intact, I would heat the backside of the panel and it would come off easily. Probably not an easy task, especially on doors. The eraser wheel mentioned is made for exactly what you are doing. It's meant to be used on a die grinder, the 3m one is far superior to the cheap ones. The paint cleaning fluids will remove the glue left behind, but take time to work. I used the kleenstrip stuff because it was half the price of the paint brands. I made a trough to soak moldings in, they didn't pay shit to clean them and wouldn't buy new ones, so this was the fastest way to save them. Of course sparks from welding would set it on fire, so it's dangerous to leave solvents out like that. Making that work on the side of a car wouldn't be easy, but doable, and the easiest way, if you odn't have a compressor and tools.


https://www.amazon.com/3M-03612-Adhesive-Eraser-Wheel/dp/B005RNGN8I

http://www.kleanstrip.com/product/prep-all

u/SageofHalo · 5 pointsr/DIY

The single best thing I ever did in my shop was build a proper outfeed table for my table saw. It doubles as a work space, a catch all and a decent finishing table if I throw something on top of it not to mess it up.

Its not fancy by any means but it works. Its MDF and 2x4's but it works flawlessly.

I technically have the room for sheet goods in my shop (its 10x21) but it would be a pain in the ass moving sheet goods in and out of a 36" door. Instead consider ripping them down with a circular saw with one of these. Its very very accurate and makes short work of long cuts. I put my sheet goods on a set of saw horses and can break it down into easier to manage pieces with ease. I was even able to completely redo my closet ripping down 3/4" MDF with that rip guide.

Don't take chances with your health brother. Its just not worth it.

u/ANTI-PUGSLY · 5 pointsr/vandwellers

We used a regular hair dryer to soften the adhesive, though it was likely unnecessary since it was also hot out and kind of inconsequential to the final result.

I then flossed behind the plastic letters with fishing line (12 lb. test, for what its worth), which easily popped them off but left the thick chunky adhesive behind.

The real key here is the adhesive remover wheel you attach to a drill. I used this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018WG2XYE/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_Pw.wDb34TNWHK

The trick is to keep the RPMs relatively low and apply strong pressure. The adhesive will fling off easily, it's just a matter of making sure you go over each spot thoroughly.

Then I dabbed a little goo gone on a rag and wiped down the area, which revealed any further stuck on adhesive / stains. Used the drill again if need be.

The last step for me was a super quick pass with carnauba cleaner wax since there was kinda some grime around the letters that left an outline of them behind. The cleaner wax took it off with almost no effort. :)

I did all of the badges too - two on the sides, the Ram on the back, and the Promaster logo on the back. Took probably 45 minutes total, maybe less.

u/CommunistWitchDr · 5 pointsr/Coffee

Ok, I'll try my best to explain here. It's a long and labor intensive process, but there's no thought involved, and nothing to screw up like with some methods.

First, you're going to need a few supplies
-----

  • Spray adhesive, I used Loctite General Performance Lightweight Bonding adhesive

  • Oil for the sanding, I used 3-IN-ONE oil

  • Sandpaper of several grits, I used a bunch of big packs from Lowes, but a multi-pack like this would be ideal

  • Adhesive remover, I used Goo Gone

  • An X-Acto style knife, I used one I just had laying around so sorry no link

  • Some rags to wipe up the metal filled cutting oil

  • Masking tape

  • The thinnest tape you can possibly find

  • A screwdriver for the burr chamber and another for the burrs themselves. I recommend a torque screwdriver for the burrs, but it's not strictly needed.

    Now, for the chamber sanding
    -----

  1. Cut out 6 squares each of the 220 grit, 320 grit, 400 grit, and 800 grit sandpaper that will fit the entire burr on them. If you like shine and don't mind the time it takes, throw some higher grit in there too.

  2. Take the outer burr carrier out of your grinder, remove the spring from it, and set it aside. Then unscrew the inner burr, you'll be attaching the sandpaper to this burr first.

  3. Take one of the squares of your 220 grit and spray the back with spray adhesive then press your inner burr on it. Wait for it to dry. Then cut off the excess sandpaper from the edges and middle leaving only a ring of it.

  4. Tape your inner burr to the outer burr that's still screwed into the burr carrier with masking tape. Work around the standoff post things.

  5. Apply cutting oil to the sandpaper.

  6. Put the assembly of two burrs in the burr chamber (making sure the spring is out of the carrier) and spin it around with gentle pressure. Take it out from time to time to wipe off the oil and metal. Continue until the sandpaper is worn out.

  7. Repeat 3-6 two more times to use 3 discs. You'll need the Goo Gone to clean the burr to attach the next disc.

  8. Repeat steps 3-7 for each size of sandpaper. You should use 3 discs for at least 220 and 320, and can probably go down from there. Those sizes do most of the work and the rest polish.

    Now your chamber is sanded to be perpendicular with the driveshaft. But your carrier does not perfectly match, not yet.

    Now, for the carrier sanding
    -----

  9. Screw your inner burr back into the grinder. If you have a torque screwdriver that is ideal, but at least try to be even. Unscrew the outer burr from the carrier.

  10. Take one of the squares of your 220 grit and spray the back with spray adhesive then press your outer burr on it. Wait for it to dry. Then cut off the excess sandpaper from the edges and middle leaving only a ring of it.

  11. Tape the outer burr, without carrier, to the inner burr. This will be a massive pain in the ass to pull off and you'll need the thinnest tape you can get. The standoff posts will have to go over the tape this time.

  12. Apply cutting oil to the sandpaper.

  13. Put the carrier over the two burrs that are affixed to the chamber, apply gentle pressure and spin it to sand down the carrier. Same way you did with the chamber sanding.

  14. Repeat with multiple grits and multiple discs of each grit the same way you did with the chamber.

    Your carrier now has a parallel surface to your chamber. Which is also perpendicular to the driveshaft! Congratulations, your grinder is aligned the best it can be this side of a machine shop!

    Final steps and notes
    -----

  • Make sure to clean your grinder before using it.

  • Make sure to flush your grinder with at least a few doses of coffee before using it.

  • When you're doing spray adhesive, have it in a box or something to not make a mess.

  • Rubbing alcohol, acetone, dish soap, etc all do nothing on the spray adhesive. You do need the Goo Gone and will have to run out to a hardware store and buy it like I did if you don't try to skip it.

  • If you opt to use any water on your burrs for cleaning, dry it off right away. The SSP burrs are coated, so it's not as bad as if you did it to Ditting burrs, but still dry em.

  • You can repeat the chamber sanding once the carrier is done for a theoretically slightly more perfect surface, but it's not really necessary.
u/vulcanwagen · 4 pointsr/diysound

I would say the bare minimum of power tools are going to be a circular saw, jigsaw and drill. Combine the circular saw with a straight edge (i.e. a very straight piece of wood/metal) used as a guide and you can cut out all of your panels.

Then onto the speaker holes. After laying out where the holes will be, drill a hole big enough to fit the jigsaw blade close to the edge of one of the speaker layout lines. Then use the jigsaw to carefully cut out the rest of the hole. This part will take practice to make the best cut. After that, I believe the holes for the rear connections would be all that's left before prepping for construction.

At this point, you have your panels cut and you need to decide where the crossover will live. I'm assuming you have everything to solder the crossover up so I won't address that. But definitely try to plan the placement so you can still reach it somewhat within the box.

Now for the final requirement: Clamps...Lots of clamps. Particularly [bar clamps] (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/F-clamp) since they will have the reach to span the length of the box sides when you glue it up.

Of course, this is bare bones. You could always substitute a table saw for the circular saw and a router+circular jig for the jigsaw and get much better results, but I'm not sure how deep you wanted to get into woodworking.

u/FesteringNeonDistrac · 4 pointsr/Tools

I've got a Wiha 75992 which is awesome. Looks like it might fit OPs needs

u/divarty · 4 pointsr/turning

Your two cents are well worth having, when I said day it's because I need to change the shape of my tools and put on the edge again. When I first started I picked up this set of tools and from all of the reading I've been doing about angles and grinds I want to take the time to make mine right instead of what came out of the box.

u/wesgarrison · 4 pointsr/HomeImprovement

If you have clamps already, I really like this one:
http://smile.amazon.com/Kreg-K4-Pocket-Hole-System/dp/B001DYFISG

If you're going to use it semi-regularly, being able to set it once and then make 20 similar holes is very handy.

If it's just a one-time project, then one of the smaller ones work, too.

u/stiflin · 4 pointsr/HomeImprovement

This thing has been great: https://www.amazon.com/GRR-RIPPER-Pushblock-Router-Jointers-MICROJIG/dp/B001I9UNWC

I feel so much safer using it than I did using crappier push-sticks. The videos really show how you can use safely, and it's quick and easy to adjust.

u/CivilC · 4 pointsr/Gunpla

The reason why /u/triviper said it's about $200+ to start airbrushing is because you need not just the airbrush, but the compressor, moisture trap, hose, and adaptors if you're buying everything separately and want a setup that will last you a long time.

My setup isn't the best, but I got

u/iHateMyUserName2 · 4 pointsr/DIY

The table looks amazing! Going off the one picture where you were using a straight edge as a guide for your circular saw, which looked like it would've done an excellent job, but here's the regular tool for future projects where that setup may not fit.

u/MyNameIsRay · 3 pointsr/CarAV

Use a hole saw for terminal cups. It's really difficult to cut a hole that small with a jigsaw and have it precise enough for a terminal cup.

TBH, most of us don't use terminal cups. Drill a hole, push the wire through, put a dab of caulk/silicone on the inside. Straight connection=lower resistance=more power. Plus, easier and cheaper.

As for cutting the subwoofer holes, using a jigsaw is certainly a skill you have to develop. It can be done, but honestly, it requires a lot of practice. Once you develop the skill, you can do some pretty cool stuff.

For instance, except for the straight side cuts, I made this with a jigsaw, including cutting out the logo. Triple layer baffle, you can see how close each hole is (sorry for the bad picture, this was from years ago). They were all cut separately, freehand, from precisely measured and drawn lines.

Unless you want to put the time in practicing, best bet is a router with a circle jig. Find perfect center, drive in a nail, pop on the jig, plunge and spin, perfect hole.

u/BlakDrgn · 3 pointsr/Skookum

Have a similar set gifted to me by my late father. 3 years in. Not a single bit missing.

https://www.amazon.com/Wiha-75992-Precision-Interchangeable-Phillips/dp/B0000WTBO4

More bits for your buck.

u/Dongasaurus_Rex · 3 pointsr/Tools

I've looked an an Ifixit bit set that someone I know bought and it's not very high quality, not terrible but, not great.

I personally have this set: http://www.amazon.com/Wiha-75992-Precision-Interchangeable-Phillips/dp/B0000WTBO4/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1427321240&sr=8-13&keywords=wiha+bit+set and it is very very good. ESD safe handle for electronics.

u/bobroberts7441 · 3 pointsr/fixit

You drill into it with a reverse (left handed) drillbit, running your drill in reverse. That will probably bring the bolt out, but if it doesn't you use an Easy Out screw extractor to screw it out. Here is a kit with both left handed bits and extractors. You can get individual tools at a local hardware store. Soak it well wit PB Blaster first.

u/dtrav001 · 3 pointsr/hardware

I have cleaned and repaired many. First get the dust and dirt off. Then, if you find a center hub covered by a cap or thin plastic sticker, remove to expose the bearing. Then a drop or two of this stuff, and you have a good chance of resurrection. Praise grid.

u/light24bulbs · 3 pointsr/prusa3d

Ooh it's four dollars! Ordered. Super Lube 51010 Oil Super Lube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BXOGHY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_EdI0DbKX6MN0W

u/AnAppleSnail · 3 pointsr/flashlight

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BXOGHY

I bought one or two from Radio Shack a few years ago. The pen applicator is pretty handy.

u/VerticalMonster · 3 pointsr/woodworking

These keep popping up as recommended bits. I got a set, but haven't used them much. Seem fine and a decent price for a decent selection.

u/metarinka · 3 pointsr/manufacturing

It's just a set of bits for a router, not particularly rare, fancy or expensive. New set would be 40-100 my guess http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FJRN8S/ref=s9_top_hd_bw_bD4kJ_g469_i3?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-4&pf_rd_r=0854NJ7BABDQGVB3ZS0H&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=e3873ec3-2071-56f1-b304-96ab142fe7ba&pf_rd_i=3116511 put them on craigslist or ebay and I'm sure some woodworker will pick them up.

u/Matt2979 · 3 pointsr/turning

I went with the same HF model for my first lathe and got a good start. Just watch how the centers line up. I found that I have to twist my tailstock clockwise before tightening and it's usually fine.

I've also got the Rikon grinder that you linked, but I picked mine up from Rockler last month, on sale for $100. As far as tools, I'd suggest picking up a semi-cheap set of HSS. Hurts a lot less when you realize you completely screwed up a bevel and have to grind off a lot more metal than you intended from a cheap one versus a high dollar one! I have a set of Benjamin's Best and have been happy enough with them for the price.

u/Ron_Swansons_wood · 3 pointsr/turning

For Pens, its not so much the tools you need as the accessories. Small tools are fine for pens, there isn't much material. If you really want the bigger tools, this was my starter set and I'm really happy with it.

http://www.amazon.com/PSI-Woodworking-LCHSS8-Chisel-8-Piece/dp/B000KI8CTS/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1375795181&sr=1-1&keywords=lathe+chisel


Accessories: Pen mandrel, morris taper (probably #2 but check) to hold the mandrel. Bushing set (slimline is easiest to learn with) and CA glue.

u/squid_fart · 3 pointsr/woodworking

What is your budget?

A Kreg Jig would be a nice gift for someone starting out, although most people in this sub would turn up their noses at the sight of one.

Edit: also clamps, you can never have enough clamps. If you have a harbor freight nearby these are really cheap and work well enough.

u/clickitout · 3 pointsr/DIY

Ok, plenty of tips. Some are because I'm stupid and learned the hard way and others are specific to this project.

  1. Get a Kreg Jig. Dont cheap out and get the $30 one. I started with that one and although it works just fine, when your doing a bunch of them, the master kit is soooooooo much easier and faster. Halfway through the project I got the Master Kit for about $90 and its well worth the money.

    http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-K4-Pocket-Hole-System/dp/B001DYFISG/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1418682780&sr=1-4&keywords=Kreg+Jig&pebp=1418682786524

  2. This is probably common knowledge for wood workers / construction guys but apparently when you buy wood, its not the measurements you buy. A 2x4 is not actually 2" x 4" turns out its 1-1/2" x 3-1/2. When I went to H-Depot to find 1x10 board, I was miffed why it was in fact 1x9-1/4. I had to re-cut half my wood to fit.

  3. Although I am glad I used the cheapest stuff I could find, I would probably go to a lumber yard to get better quality wood next time. Its kinda warped on the drawer face.

  4. These plans don't really have any kind of drawer mechanism. The drawer just sits on wood. Next time I make something with a drawer, I will include a drawer slide. This also may be just because Im not good at it, but it doesn't slide easily or cleanly.

  5. Clamps. Make sure you've got plenty. When I started the project I had 2- 12" clamps and ended up ordering 3 more 36" clamps. Pipe Clamps are better, but I ordered some cheap ones (link below) When I ordered them they were $9 each with free prime shipping. Wait till they go back on sale.

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NQ17PI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

  6. Back to the Drawer. I just remembered. I believe the plans called for a piece of plywood as the bottom of the drawer. When I cut it down and tested the fit, it was too tight to actually go in the drawer hole. I ended up cutting it down to fit the inside of the drawer and gluing it in place. It ended up "ok" but I wish I had done a better job on this.
u/zxgravediggerxz · 3 pointsr/starcitizen

http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-K4-Pocket-Hole-System/dp/B001DYFISG

its this thing. I just bought it for other furniture projects and everyone seems to love it as an alternative to biscuit or other joint methods

u/kadidid · 3 pointsr/wince

It's not $1000 every time it fires... New saw-stop cartriges are about $80, and a new blade (which becomes destroyed in the process). So relatively cheap, considering you still have your fingers to count your $$$.

u/xenyz · 3 pointsr/CatastrophicFailure

You do know that every time that is used, it destroys itself and has to be replaced right?

Imagine that on a scale like an escalator where anyone who happens to press a button causes thousands and thousands of damages.

edit: $100 replacement , i'm thinking a scale of hundreds of thousands for a similar setup on a large scale

edit2: you could probably buy a whole new escalator for hundreds of thousands, idk how much the cost would be

u/rognvaldr · 3 pointsr/woodworking

$69, plus a new blade.

u/LittleJohnStone · 3 pointsr/woodworking
u/madmardigan81 · 3 pointsr/woodworking

GRR-RIPPER 3D Pushblock for Table Saws, Router Tables, Band Saws, and Jointers by MICROJIG https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001I9UNWC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XV54CbGH3S534

u/AMillionMonkeys · 3 pointsr/woodworking

Cross-cutting is easy enough, and so are sheet goods.
For ripping you'll want a featherboard and a push-stick. You could get a commercial push-stick like the Grr-ripper, or you could make your own. I prefer the "shoe" style from that page.

u/blue_chalk · 3 pointsr/woodworking

If he is going to be using a table saw, one a GRR-ripper would be a good gift. I've been wanting one, but never pulled the trigger. This helps cut thin pieces on the table saw. Also generally safer than normal push sticks.

http://www.amazon.com/Micro-Jig-GR-100-GRR-Ripper/dp/B001I9UNWC

Another thing to go with many power tools is a magnetic feather block. This also helps keep things safe on power tools. It keep wood tight to a reference surface, helping accuracy and safety.

http://www.amazon.com/Mesa-Vista-Design-GRIP-TITE-Featherboard/dp/B0000223VF

u/coletain · 3 pointsr/woodworking

Hard to say for sure without knowing his shop, so you'd probably want to try to scope out any recommendations for specific stuff to see if he already has something similar before you buy.

A good suggestion that I think always works well for any budget is to go to a local hardwood dealer and just pick out a selection of interesting exotic lumber, any woodworker will always appreciate getting cool woods to use in their projects.

If you want to have some ideas for stocking stuffers / tools though I'll list some cool things that I think are not super common that I enjoy owning or make my life easier.

Tiny-T Pocket rule

6" precision t rule

A really nice miter gauge

Router setup bars

A nice marking knife

Marking gauge

Magports

Tapeboss

Grr-ripper

Dozuki & Ryoba

Alexa (Alexa, what is 5 and 3/8 times 16... Alexa set reminder for 30 minutes to spray the second coat... Alexa order shop towels... etc, it's actually really useful, and it plays music too)

Shop apron

Quick sanding strips

Digital Angle Gauge

Digital Height Gauge

Anything from Woodpeckers is pretty much guaranteed to be great, albeit kinda pricey

u/Dokasamurp · 3 pointsr/Warhammer40k

I'll grab a couple of these that I've learned in the past several months, as I'm also quite new here.

  1. Sweet tool called a pin-vice (That one's pretty expensive, shop around). As for magnets, I'm using 2mm diameter, roughly 1mm thick round magnets from I dunno, I googled 2mm round magnet. Bought like 200 of them for something like $10.

  2. If you paint super thin, like one of my favorite twitch streamers, Slowfuse you can just paint right over your mess-up with no problems. If you really really want to strip it, many people use simple-green for plastic models. I don't remember what to use for resin models.

  3. Slowfuse paints practically with the wash-cup water lol. As long as you unload most of the watery paint onto, say your thumb, you will have amazing results with super thin paint. You'll end up doing lots of layers, probably even more than Duncan! You've applied enough coats when the color is as visible as you need for the situation. Sometimes you can use just a coat or two, for tinting the color you put on first, or other times you can keep going until the current color is solid.

  4. Super small brush, very thin paint, multiple layer, steady hand. Sometimes you can clean up a line of paint that went wide with whatever color you mistakenly covered.

    I'm going to stop there and hope others will finish the rest and also give their own answers to the first 4, since, as I mentioned, I'm new myself!
u/Damit84 · 3 pointsr/minipainting

Super awesome mini! I still have my Deathguard guys to paint so I'm going to save the picture for reference use;)

A little tip for improvement maybe: Get one of those tiny hand drills with tiny drillbits and gift it to your husband. He can drill a little barrel into the front of the gun which looks even more amazing ;)

Edit:I just checked. It is called a Pin Vice

u/NeatHedgehog · 3 pointsr/AnimeFigures

You could probably drill it out by hand with just a drill bit if you don't want to spend the money on a complete drill / dremel. Or there's always a hand drill kit, like this. Hardware would probably have one.

It's worth it to support it, though. The position of the break means there will be maximum shear stress on the join. Without a support it's much more likely to fall off. If the contact area was bigger I wouldn't worry about it, but in this case it's quite small compared to the weight it's supporting, so I'd really recommend an internal pin.

u/slipperyp · 3 pointsr/Dollhouses

So I posted in /r/woodworking and got a pretty good suggestion that is going to work.

For drilling the holes, I ordered a micro drill set that allows me to drill my pilot holes with a small finger drill. This is effective and gives me much more control than attempting to use a power drill (and works just fine).

Then just another note for aligning the sections - in the same woodworking thread they recommend using transfer points. This is a good technique that I was familiar with but will mention. Basically once you have your pilot, you put a specialized plug into the hole where the the plug is built with a sharp tip pointing out of its center. After I've drilled my two pilots in the railing top and bottom rails, I'll put a transfer point into each of those pilot holes, then lightly use the transfer points to "poke" and leave a small target mark in the end newel post. Then I know exactly where to drill my second pilot so that my support dowel will line up.

Thanks for the comments!

u/RedBeardtheImpaler · 3 pointsr/boardgames

Well I am by no means an expert but here is what I got:

Paasche Talon TG-3f - It does the job. I am not painting eyes with it, mostly priming, and wide cloak and base colors.

I too had a compressor but needed to grab a Water Trap the compressor I have is super load and not 'made' for airbrushing 'per se'. So I need to regulate the water in the paint.

Then get a bottle of Air Brush Thinner. You can then use any paint you want through it (make it much thinner than normal skim milk painting consistency).

I did pick up some airbrush paints to practice with on cardboard and canvas ... figured the more I use it the better I will get. My intent is to use Vallejo Black/White primer through it. Save me from having to use so many cans of spray paint.

edit Also should mention a couple videos that influenced me/I am using to learn from: Tons of airbrushing stuff later in the video of this BIG resin kit, Tested beginners guide, more resin kit with an airbrush, and just for giggles how to clean it which in my humble opinion is the largest deterrent of the process.

u/Fantastitech · 3 pointsr/computertechs

An air compressor with a moisture trap and a narrow nozzle. You can get a small desk-sized compressor for under $100 from a pawn shop. A filter and moisture trap is cheap on Amazon.

You just can't get the power of compressed air from a little electric pump.

u/B0Bi0iB0B · 3 pointsr/buildapc

It all depends on the temperature of your tank and hose. I can't say how long it will take because there's a lot of factors, but if it's been sitting there long enough to be around the ambient temperature, then it will condense in the tank and pool at the bottom (this will cause corrosion unless you drain it weekly). If your hose is the first time it reaches dewpoint, then you will be spraying a bit of water with the air. This is what happens most of the time if you are using the air soon after it is compressed.

Basically if you move very little volume like cleaning the occasional case, then you would be fine to buy something like this which gives you a few things. First is the trap. This needs to be downline from the compressor enough for the air to cool sufficiently for the water to condense into the trap. If you place this immediately after the compressor while it is running, it will do nothing. Second, it has a regulator to accurately change the pressure which would be nice for not blasting and breaking a fan or something. Third, it has a gauge to show your delivered pressure. With this you can fill your tank to as high of a pressure as it is rated for and fine-tune the pressure here.

Anyway, like you say, it's probably not much of a big deal and the average person will be fine, but it's something to be aware of.

Here's how you can figure out what the dewpoint of your compressed air is if you want:

  1. Find your air temperature and relative humidity. (google "weather [your city]")
  2. Input those values here to get your atmospheric dewpoint.
  3. Then go to this page and put the dewpoint in "Known Dewpoint".
  4. Put "0 psig" for "Pressure for Known Dew Point".
  5. Put your tank pressure in "New Pressure".
  6. Hit calculate.

    The air in your tank needs to be under that temperature for water vapor to condense and for a trap to be useful. It's hard to say for sure without measuring it, but air can be around 300 F after being compressed, so it could take some time to cool sufficiently. Hope that wasn't too wordy.
u/Jordo_99 · 3 pointsr/woodworking

Perhaps this will get me flamed here for doing things the wrong way but it's working for me on my table-less setup (currently making a router table and saving up for a table saw so I can avoid relying so heavily on these techniques in the future).

A table saw is probably what you need to do this properly but this is sort of a "poor mans fence".

My current workaround is to draw my cut line, and then clamp a straight edge ruler (or other material that's perfectly straight) 1" to the side. When I make my cut I know it will be perfectly straight if I keep the metal guide flush to the clamped piece the entire time.

This is also how I'm using my router with straight bits to make dado cuts (measure up 2 3/4" from the center line for my router guide)...I know there are probably better ways to do this but again, no table saw so I'm making due with what I know and what I've got.


  • This might also be a decent purchase depending on your needs:
    http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007K5HIFS/

  • For fun, here's another similar item for converting a hand drill to a portable drill press:
    http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JCIMEA/


    Those are both probably tools/adapters which are not going to be better than a table saw or drill press but they're also appealing for those with limited budget or limited work space.
u/BasicBrewing · 3 pointsr/woodworking
u/Edward_Blake · 3 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

I've used 3 different right angle drill attachments in the last few years. The first was a Milwaukee 110º one and it was alright, price was 15 dollars, I've killed that one. Then I bought this one for 20 at the time and it has been great, way nicer than my first adapter. I am still using it today.

http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWARA100-Right-Angle-Attachment/dp/B00C0VSNKQ/

My friend has this 50 dollar Milwaukee one and its amazing. Way nicer than my dewalt and it can take a lot of torque. I've never got one since its a little bit thicker than the dewalt and most of the time space is an issue for me.

http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-49-22-8510-Right-Angle-Attachment/dp/B000BYEJ02/

u/asdfasdf123456789 · 3 pointsr/PipeTobacco

2 pack

assorted pack sand paper

lifetime supply of oxiclean

obsidian oil

edit:
paragon wax for hand polishing smooth pipes
halcyon II for hand polishing rusticated pipes[https://www.ebay.com/itm/Halcyon-II-Wax-for-the-Pipe/323134732335]

just have plenty of pipe cleaners, qtips, and either vodka, rubbing alcohol, or grain alcohol

u/scuppasteve · 3 pointsr/woodworking

220 or 320 -> 400 -> 1000 -> 2000-> 4000 -> 6000ish

some thing like this
https://smile.amazon.com/Micro-Mesh-Assortment-Pack-18-Pieces/dp/B00HJC156U

then go through maybe 5000-6000

then polish with a felt pad

then final buff with lambswool pad

is how i do it

u/Tony3696 · 3 pointsr/Tools

18v to 20v adapter:
DEWALT 18v to 20v Adapter - Bare (DCA1820) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016K1UD0E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mNF2CbWH0QPS3

u/BrandonWatersFights · 3 pointsr/hondaridgeline

Before pics

Wonderwheel

There are more expensive versions of this but for 10$ it did pretty damn good
Just use low rpm (I think it says less than 2000 rpm drill) and don’t stay in the same spot for long. After wards I just brushed off the remnants and wiped away with goo gone and a towel.

I’m not like a mechanically inclined person so if I can do it you can too

u/Apotropaic_Sphinx · 3 pointsr/CherokeeXJ

Okay, first, don't believe anything that the PO told you.

  1. Get a 3M Eraser Wheel for the residual adhesive.

  2. Get a decent multimeter and/or test light to resolve the electrical issues. Although your window issues are probably caused by broken solders in the door switches or broken wires in the door boots.

  3. If working on the A/C system, invest in a good manifold and gauge set with vacuum pump. They're all over Amazon and eBay.

  4. General rule of thumb, don't fix something that's not broken. Definitely inspect the brakes, but if there's life left on the pads and rotor, leave them alone. There are probably plenty of other places that money could be better spent.
u/Gabe324 · 3 pointsr/MouseReview

Sandpaper I bought For reference , also i kinda suggest even getting higher grit sandpaper as i still see some scratches on the mouse (barely).

u/vff · 3 pointsr/lockpicking

One piece of advice, whether you find sandpaper or end up using something equivalent to a much higher grit paper, is to never skip grits. For example, if you want to bring them to a mirror finish it might seem like going from 400 to 2000 would save time over doing 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, and 2000, but the more intermediate grits you use, the faster things will go even counting the time to change paper. You'll only need a few swipes with each one. And if 400 doesn't seem to be doing anything at first, don't be afraid to start lower.

Something like this 36 piece incremental set from Amazon for $8 will give you all the grits you'll need.

u/Stasis_Detached · 2 pointsr/Warhammer
u/gwarsh41 · 2 pointsr/Warhammer40k

> Acastus Knight Porphyrion

I'm not sure about that one. It's a mighty big model, but it's leg assembly seems to be more like a knight titan, than a cerestus or warhound. It doesn't have the inverted knee like the other knights do. No idea what cabin assembly is like either. The warhound cabin is a bunch of huge pieces, I don't know of anything that can prepare you for it. I used about 20 rubber bands while I was building, to make sure it all held together and looked good before gluing. There is a pic of my warhound WIP below, you can see how it's legs have 3 segments, making a forward joint, and reverse joint. Standard Knights and the porphyrion only have a forward, and Cerestus only have a reverse. The only non +warhound models I know of with similar 3 segment opposite joint style assembly are the decimator and I believe the kytan daemon engine.

For pinning big ass models, I still use paperclips. However instead of pinning straight across a joint, like you might on infantry, I go through the joint from the outside. You can see some paperclips under the warhounds foot. There is one in each toe that goes all the way through, so if the warhound wants to move, the pin must be pulled out. That is the only place I pinned the warhound though. I used big ass magnets on the head, torso, and arms so I could do this to transport it.

My knight titan has 3mm neodymium magnets in each arm. They are the same ones I use on marines, dreadnoughts and just about everything. They hold knight weaponry up decently, but some people prefer larger ones. You can get bulk magnets on ebay much cheaper than the hobby store, but if you don't want to wait, go to a hardware store, as they are still cheaper than hobby store.

I believe this dremel is the new version of the one I have. The flex shaft attachment makes life so much easier. A basic drill bit set is good for getting started, but make sure it has the same size as the magnets you use. I've started using jewelry bits for mine, and they are insane good. However the larger ones (1.5mm-3mm set) are difficult to use, as they cut more than bore. Just last night I couldn't keep a handle on the arm bit I was drilling, ended up flying across the room. On resin they are easier though. I bought a set of cutter bits from the hardware store. It was all spherical tip and tube tip of various sizes. It has been very useful for battle damage, and the tube tip is how I widen holes for giant ass magnets.

The real MVP of a dremel for hobby conversions and building has been the circular saw bits I got mine from a wood carving magazine, and they are paper thin. Not 100% about these ones, but they are great for precision cuts and removing chunks of resin.

u/CornflakeJustice · 2 pointsr/Warhammer

I use this and this to cover my barrel sizes, start small adjust as needed, always start a pilot hole with an xacto or similar.

u/joecool · 2 pointsr/DIY

In all the speakers I've built, I didn't just cut a circle but actually cut a rabbeted circle around the edge for the lip of the driver to sit in. I think it looks much nicer but you could certainly do without it if you don't mind the look.

I cut mine circles with a router and one of these though you could pretty easily build your own jig if you didn't want to buy one. Cut the rabbet first and then cut the through hole after that. With this setup, it'll take you 2 minutes to cut a perfect speaker hole of exact dimensions at exactly the spot on the board you want it. I can't imagine trying to do that without a router - it'd be a freaking nightmare.

As for making your cuts, a jigsaw isn't going to produce very pretty cuts. A circular saw with a straight edge will do the job far better. That setup would effectively give you a tablesaw except upside down.

If you're strapped for cash, doing this one time only, or just trying to figure out if you're into the whole building thing, maybe get one of these. It's not a high quality tool, but it'll cut. I'm sure HF has some routers that would work with the jib above, but make sure the bolt hole patterns are supported. Oh, and never go into HF without a 20% off coupon - they're in every newspaper and magazine all the time.

Edit: Also use the router + a round over bit to round over the sharp corners on the box!

u/[deleted] · 2 pointsr/diysound
  1. Get a used power drill. The makitas are damn near immortal. Buy corded.
  2. Plunge routers are the #1 most useful tool once you've got the wood chopped up. Get a decent one.
  3. This fuckin' thing
  4. Hand sanding works. Used sanders are cheap.
  5. I'm a lazy shit who likes plasti dip.
u/Fred7099 · 2 pointsr/woodworking

I bought this one about 6 months ago and love it.

Jasper 200J Model 200 Circle Cutting Jig for Plunge Router https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00009K77A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_r1oezbKFHXNVB

u/GeauxBulldogs · 2 pointsr/woodworking
u/ThePolishThunder · 2 pointsr/woodworking

I've had good luck with Porter Cable and Bosch routers. For speaker building I recommend getting some type of plunge router with a jasper circle jig.
http://www.amazon.com/Jasper-200J-Circle-Cutting-Plunge/dp/B00009K77A

I do a lot of car and home audio, and that jig is one of my favorite tools. Perfect circles everytime.

u/CuedUp · 2 pointsr/DIY

If you have a router, I highly suggest a circle cutting jig. I have this model. I fussed around with hole saws and bought a cheap 6" one for my cornhole set like the other commenter, but when I finally decided to pay $36 for a piece of plastic, I kicked myself for not doing it sooner.

u/revrigel · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

I have 75992 and really like it.

u/Fiddler33 · 2 pointsr/knives

Sounds like you need a torx driver like this set.

Wiha 75992 System 4 Precision Interchangeable Bit Set, Torx, Slotted, Phillips, Hex Inch, ESD Safe Precision Handle, 27 Piece In Compact Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000WTBO4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_k5mDDb0TYJHX3

u/SicilSlovak · 2 pointsr/projectcar

This is what you're looking for, screw extractors. Cut the head flat, center punch, drill out, then use the left handed extractor bit to remove the bolt

I did this to a valve cover bolt or two, over tightening them to avoid leaks. It sucks, but it happens. These solve the problem.

Note: some WD-40/penetrating oil and heat can make the process go easier, as mentioned elsewhere in this thread.

u/vader540is · 2 pointsr/hometheater

You could use something like this kit, i have one and it very useful. Just make sure you measure your binding post size and cross check to see if this kit comes with the size you need.

IRWIN Tools Hanson Spiral Extractor and Drill Bit Set, 10 Piece, 11119 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002NYBH8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CPgQBb1RK76C6

u/fr0mastaj · 2 pointsr/Cartalk

Got a picture? Maybe a left hand drill bit along with a screw extractor bit, if you have room?

Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Industrial-11119-Extractors-10-Piece/dp/B0002NYBH8 (but they do make better ones out there too)

u/seek_0 · 2 pointsr/Jeep

Assuming the head is stripped (rounded) and it's not the threads, I'd use this style of broken bold extractor. That is assuming you can fit it on.

If you've got nothing at all to work with, then you can use a spiral-flute type broken bolt extractor

These are basically like big reverse-threaded screws that screw in counterclockwise (so lefty-tighty, unlike normal bolts/screws) that let you put enough torque on the bolt to remove. No sawing is necessary, you just have to drill a hole into the stripped bolt more or less on center.

If it's the nut on the hinge pin, I'd just use a small drill bit and drill several holes vertically and then crack it with a chisel (protect the door when you do this.)

Practically everyone carries door hinge pins and mounting hardware. Jeep dealers will have them, as will the major online parts places (4WD, quadratec, etc.)

u/spncrbrry · 2 pointsr/Throwers

yes that 3in1 will do fine, but thicker will be more responsive and last longer.

You can melt vaseline into a bearing with a lighter - hold the bearing on the end of a pencil or something you don't care about burning a bit. Make sure you only do this if the bearing is all metal.

"Brain Lube" is the best, imo - this is the same stuff https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-51010-Oil/dp/B000BXOGHY/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1499211271&sr=1-3&keywords=super+lube+ptfe

Mineral spirits cuts the oil - distributes it more evenly and thinly - so adding it to your lube makes it less responsive.

u/Uhdoyle · 2 pointsr/vinyl

Super Lube 51010 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BXOGHY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Cn8OCb5WJ71QT

You’ll want to add a drop to the horizontal pivot point inside that angled round donut part.

Edit: red line is the imaginary axle. Apply lube to points marked by yellow arrows https://imgur.com/a/ZlmV6Uw

u/makes_things · 2 pointsr/woodworking

I bought this MLCS set off Amazon as my starter set:

https://www.amazon.com/MLCS-8377-15-Piece-Router-Carbide-Tipped/dp/B000FJRN8S/

It's been fine - I'm now buying better quality bits when I know I need something and I've replaced a couple of these with nicer versions, but for a basic set this has been a good value for me.

u/IlliniBone · 2 pointsr/woodworking

new Drill press - Craftsman 12" $189

used table saw - Ridgid $250 http://denver.craigslist.org/tls/5299905704.html

new Dewalt miter saw 12" home depot $279

(2) new Sears plunge router 2.5 hp #27860 $130 each $260

used band saw http://denver.craigslist.org/tls/5306628654.html $150

new Milwaukee sawzall/drill kit http://www.homedepot.com/p/M12-12-Volt-Lithium-Ion-3-8-in-Cordless-Drill-Driver-Hackzall-Combo-Kit/206284103 $99

(2) Dewalt orbital sander http://www.sears.com/dewalt-5-in-random-orbit-sander-kit-with/p-00926349000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1 $50 each $100

new kreg pocket hole kit $99

used Delta jointer $225 http://denver.craigslist.org/tls/5262033510.html

(4) new pipe clamp fixtures $11 each plus $25 for the pipe $70

(2) new Irwin clamp sets $33 each $66 http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=quick+clamp+12%22&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Aquick+clamp+12%22

new 15 piece router bit set $45 http://www.amazon.com/MLCS-8377-15-Piece-Router-Carbide-Tipped/dp/B000FJRN8S/ref=sr_1_4?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1448998111&sr=1-4&keywords=router+bit+set

new jig saw $60 http://www.sears.com/porter-cable-pce345-6.0-amp-orbital-jig-saw/p-SPM7634045028?prdNo=7&blockNo=7&blockType=G7


That should put me around $1800 - the rest would be spent on sandpaper, blades, screws, work bench etc.

u/IIndAmendmentJesus · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Get these chisels for him they are for a lathe, while it isn't the best lathe if he doesn't have lathe tools then he can't use it. Bench chisels and Mortising chisels are more for furniture making and without a hand full of other tools they are pretty useless depending on what he plans on making.

u/matthew-mdjster · 2 pointsr/turning

https://www.amazon.com/PSI-Woodworking-LCHSS8-Chisel-8-Piece/dp/B000KI8CTS/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=wood+turning+gouges&qid=1568416993&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Has worked well for me to start with. One tool is useless and when I took a class from someone in the club with a lot of experience he had to look it up. And what we found was most people reshaped it to something else.

u/Nenotriple · 2 pointsr/turning

A topic like this just came up, here's what I said then.

The Hurricane Tools are pretty decent. I've never tried carbide turning tools, but I feel that regular steel tools are just as good.

I primarily use the bowl gouge set, and then for everything else, I bought the cheap Benjamin's best 8-piece set.

For almost a year I sharpened them by hand because I really was unsure of grinding. I just have a cheap 6" grinder with stock wheels, that I always feel like it would eat up, and burn the tools. I was really tempted to buy the wolverine jig, so I tried to copy it out of wood. I replicated both of these jigs (though the one on the left is all you really need) and used some old rusty flat head screw drivers to practice the bevel. It worked surprisingly well on the screw drivers, I could even turn with them.

Sharpening the actual tools worked fantastically well, they finally "cut" for the first time, heh. Again, I thought I would burn them up, but light even pressure, and multiple passes made it super simple. It really only takes a few seconds to sharpen them, it actually takes me longer to adjust my custom jig. If you're using the same tool, and jig position, it's super easy though.

Next you'll be wanting info on chucks ;)

u/mikej091 · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Yeah, probably. I typically used an impact driver (similar to this one http://www.amazon.com/Makita-LCT200W-18-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Cordless/dp/B000V2DSE2/ref=sr_1_2?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1398885605&sr=1-2) anyway, and it's rare that the bit comes out of the head with that. Stripping the wood is much more common.

u/mradtke66 · 2 pointsr/DIY

My current set the compact set from Makita: http://www.amazon.com/Makita-LCT200W-18-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Cordless/dp/B000V2DSE2/ref=sr_1_6?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1310495108&sr=1-6

They can be had cheaper during black-friday sales and the like.

The biggest win vs. a NiCad is first weight. LiIon is far, far lighter for the same power load.

Second, LiIon have a more usable power. NiCad degrades rather linearly. Ie, the more you use it, the less power it puts out. LiIon will hold on and produce roughly the same output until you've used about 90% of the charge.

Third, LiIon can (and SHOULD) be charged before you use them all the way to zero. They don't suffer the "charge memory" thing that NiCad does.

Specific benefit to that Makita set: Charge time from almost 0 to 100% full is 15 minutes. 15 minutes.

u/Kolione · 2 pointsr/Tools

I love my makitas. The LCT set is good for most people. The LXT 211 or 218 are slightly more powerful for people who use their tools every day. I own the 211 set and love it.

u/shivermetimbers11 · 2 pointsr/DIY

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000V2DSE2/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00

Lightweight, compact, and powerful. Battery lasts for a long time and recharges fast. Don't waste any money on cheaper cordless drills.

u/jhartwell · 2 pointsr/DIY

What made you get that jig compared to the Kreg Jig K4 Pocket Hole System? I know the Pocket Hole System costs about $50 more but it seems like it would be easier to use.

u/angryee · 2 pointsr/DIY

Wood is always the best material! Here's what I've learned so far on how to make non-ugly wood-based things:

-1) Plan, plan plan plan plan plan plan. Take measurements. Draw. Scratch your head. Go to the store and measure the wood you'll be using. Draw some more. Swear a bit. Nothing will save you if you don't plan out your design well.

0) Measure thrice cut once - Don't get antsy with your cuts. Make sure you have the right measurement, then make sure again. Mark your cut with a pencil and mark the WHOLE length of the cut, not just the beginning. Use a triangle and a clamp as a saw guide. Cut a SMALL notch in the wood and ensure you're on your mark. Make sure before your cut you know which side of the cut your saw blade is supposed to be on or your length will be off by the width of the saw blade.

  1. [Kreg pocket hole jig] (http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-K4-Pocket-Hole-System/dp/B001DYFISG/ref=pd_cp_hi_3) - this thing is amazing. It creates screw holes that are unobtrusive and easy to hide. You can go in at an angle instead of straight-on. Get the screws too.

  2. Random orbit sander - people like smooth things and nicely sanded wood takes a finish much better. Sand every surface you intend on finishing and keep sanding it until it's as smooth as a baby's bottom. EDIT: Use breathing protection such as a dust mask.

  3. Prestain - This is needed for some porous woods like pine.

  4. Wood stain + polyeurethane - I use the kind that is combined. I don't know if others will think I'm a heathen because of that but I do. I don't use the brushes but instead use the white sponges. I can't find them though. Use at least two coats and LET IT DRY inbetween. Don't get anxious. Also, if you live with a woman don't forget to ask her what colors work best with the room. Take her with you to get the stain if necessary.

  5. Steel wool between coats - This removes minor imperfections like bubbles and small hairs that get stuck in the coat of stain.

    That's all the suggestions I can come up with for now. It shouldn't be difficult. Scout out your wood supplier beforehand so you can see what you have to work with. You can probably find legs like those on the table in the picture at Lowes pretty easily. A nice top shouldn't be hard to find there either. You can either screw the legs directly into the top if you find a thick enough one or get some thinner boards for side pieces and form a frame to put the top on.
u/tacocharleston · 2 pointsr/gardening

Yeah this one

There's a smaller one for $40 that's supposed to work well too.

u/_Bay_Harbor_Butcher_ · 2 pointsr/watchpeopledie

You can buy replacement brake cartridges (the only part that gets destroyed and needs replacing) on Amazon for 70 bucks. https://www.amazon.com/SawStop-TSBC-10R2-Cartridge-10-Inch-Blades/dp/B001G9MGZQ So the initial investment is having to buy the Sawstop at whatever price the guy is charging for his custom saw but after that it's only 70 bucks per finger not lost. Not a bad deal. Also he only makes the saws himself because he has to because no hardware company wanted to take on the risk of his idea potentially failing one time on one of their saws and them having to deal with the lawsuit. He never wanted to manufacture saws but when no one else would take it on decided it needed to be available to people and took it upon himself to do so. I saw a Youtube video about the SawStop once and then went down a bender of videos regarding the product because I thought it was so cool.

u/St00dley · 2 pointsr/BeginnerWoodWorking

These are good too: https://www.amazon.com/GRR-RIPPER-Pushblock-Router-Jointers-MICROJIG/dp/B001I9UNWC

They can hold the peice and the offcut so that helps prevent kickback.

Take your time, cut slowly and keep your eye on the blade as if you push the price through to fast it won't like it.

Practice makes perfect. Good luck
Edit: spelling

u/joem569 · 2 pointsr/woodworking

With regards to making it more safe, you could get something like the Grripper. It's a pushblock that makes cutting smaller and thinner pieces a lot safer on the table saw. I just got one for myself, and I love it.

You can also use it with a router table, a band saw and a huge number of other ways too. It's a nice little tool.

u/shenco · 2 pointsr/RBA

hardware stores around me didnt carry the small drill bit that i needed. so i bought this from amazon ----->>>>> link

u/earthsavior · 2 pointsr/minipainting

I don't know what to tell you with specifics for Spain, but I can give you some general info that may or may not be helpful to you.

First off, there's this link in the sidebar. It'll give you a bunch of options.

Your hobby knife and mouldline remover will be the same thing. The handles all function the same way. However, I'd recommend picking up some kind of hobby knife set so you get a variety of blade shapes to try and multiple handles to use. #11 blades are the standard, and I prefer X-acto brand, but your mileage may vary. Some larger blade sizes won't fit into smaller handles. Buy in bulk to save money. You can remove mouldlines with the back of a blade, rather than a separate tool.

Any kind of cheap and well-reviewed wax tool / clay tool / dental tool set will work for scupting. Same deal with needle file sets. And with your pin vise. The drill bits will break (for any set), though, and bits can be problematic to replace if you're not sure of exact sizing.

u/VibeGeek · 2 pointsr/minipainting

I'd also suggest getting a Pin Vise to hold together the parts. I'm not a fan of depending solely on glue with metal parts.

In case you don't know what a Pin Vice is, it's a small, pen shaped, manual drill that you use to drill a hole, big enough to insert a pin into your model. This way you can add a firm set to where your model pieces join together.

u/zenautodetailing · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Look up eraser wheel. Not sure if you can pick up one locally, but they sell them on amazon.

u/poopmanscoop · 2 pointsr/Audi
u/Knoxie_89 · 2 pointsr/sarasota

Have they never heard of a rubber eraser wheel?

3M 03612 4" x 5/8" Adhesive Eraser Wheel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005RNGN8I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_AWj.BbKZ2Y78Q

These things remove glue really nicely

u/tcarmd · 2 pointsr/350z

3m makes a great adhesive remover that you attach to a power tool: https://www.amazon.com/3M-03612-Adhesive-Eraser-Wheel/dp/B005RNGN8I

​

also check our r/AutoDetailing they have stuff related to this asked about every other day and there are quite a few who will be more than happy to give some tips.

u/spriteun · 2 pointsr/Volkswagen

3M 03612 4" x 5/8" Adhesive Eraser Wheel https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B005RNGN8I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3T6RCbKGYKSP7

ur only using the side of the wheel so it shouldn't really swirl

u/AWalletsWorth · 2 pointsr/Jeep

I just had to remove one of these stickers. The very best thing you can use is a 3M attachment for your drill. I had HUGE vinyls on both of my door panels and this tool removed it and all residue in less then 20 minutes of minimal work.

http://www.amazon.com/3M-03612-Adhesive-Eraser-Wheel/dp/B005RNGN8I/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1426111757&sr=8-4&keywords=3M+Vinyl+Remover

u/JoyousTourist · 2 pointsr/TinyHouses

do it. It saved us a lot of money and weight. This tool saved us so much time: https://www.amazon.com/Kreg-KMA2675-Rip-Cut/dp/B007K5HIFS

Oh here's a video of the plywood ripping in action -
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1nXsiJ3pFQXt10Fs65_MdHMJMFly2gAld/view?usp=sharing

u/wdjm · 2 pointsr/woodworking

A scrap board and 2 clamps will make you a fence. Just make sure you clamp it square.

Or you can do as I did and spend $40 on one of these which should give you a nice straight cut on larger stock. (Can't vouch for the use personally - just got mine for Christmas and haven't had a chance to play with it yet. Theory is sound, though.)

u/warrentv · 2 pointsr/DIY

I have this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C0VSNKQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_pDOpDbJ4JM57C but it's bulkier than what you show in the picture. Not sure of a slimmer option, but the DeWalt is a lifesaver and of good quality.

I would think if you have a drill bit that doesn't have a smooth shank, it could work for drilling. The piece I linked accepts standard hex shank bits, so a drill bit without a smooth shank could work

u/V0RT3XXX · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

At my house we have a horizontal 2x4 as well and the way we got around it is to make a small hole right above or below the horizontal beam then use a 90 degree drill bit tool thingy and drill a small hole through the beam. Then when you drop the cable from the attic down, one person can look through the dry wall hole and navigate the cable through the hole in the beam.

Edit: this:

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWARAFS-Right-Angle-Shaft/dp/B013UBXU3E/

Or this:

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWARA100-Right-Angle-Attachment/dp/B00C0VSNKQ

u/carnesy · 2 pointsr/PipeTobacco
u/sejose24 · 2 pointsr/Tools

Lowes has the kit in Stock for $149 which includes an adapter, 2 batteries and charger.

https://m.lowes.com/pd/DEWALT-20V-Max-Battery-Adapter-Kit-for-18V-Tools/999981802

Amazon also carries just the adapter for $37

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016K1UD0E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_lmUDybW194P5R

u/grunthos503 · 2 pointsr/Tools

In your situation, I'd definitely look hard at the DCA1820 adapter.

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCA1820-Dewalt-Battery-Adapter/dp/B016K1UD0E

Lets you use the new XR Li-ion batteries in your existing XRP tools.

There are also some knock-off clones of the DCA1820 on ebay and amazon for half the price or less, which are getting decent reviews and seem to work OK.

This will allow you to get much better batteries, and then start phasing in new tools as you need them.

u/carpenterio · 2 pointsr/Tools
u/ski_it_all · 2 pointsr/Tools

Something to consider is their 18V to 20V battery adapter. Let's you buy into the new system and batteries for the lawn mower, but you can continue using your old 18v tools until they die.

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCA1820-Dewalt-Battery-Adapter/dp/B016K1UD0E

This will depend on how often you use the tools though. If it's a daily thing the added bulk of the adapter could get annoying quick.

u/DesolationRobot · 2 pointsr/Tools

One thing you have going for you is that they're nicads and older tech with less actual tech built in to the battery. Newer LiIon ones the battery itself is pretty smart and I wouldn't trust 3rd party.

One thing you have going against you is that's an obsolete battery platform, so any money you throw towards it feels wasted.

If it's just the one drill, I'd shop for a new drill. Get something current-gen. Even a current-gen lithium-ion 12v drill will likely be as powerful as your older nicad 18v--and much smaller/cheaper.

If you had a lot of tools that were still useful, you could look in to a battery adapter to let you buy new LiIon batteries that you could eventually use in new tools.

If money is tight, though, I'm sure the 3rd party nicad will work just fine--they're really not that complicated compared to the new smart ones.

u/DickLeaky · 2 pointsr/f150

ABN Rubber Eraser Wheel 4" Inch Pad & Adapter 1-Pack - Pinstripe, Adhesive Remover, Vinyl Decal, Graphics Removal Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018WG2XYE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_835kDbE8GQNEZ

u/zajaco · 2 pointsr/CherokeeXJ

I've had good success with these as well.

u/rayFizzle · 2 pointsr/CherokeeXJ

ABN Rubber Eraser Wheel 4” Inch Pad & Adapter 1-Pack – Pinstripe, Adhesive Remover, Vinyl Decal, Graphics Removal Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018WG2XYE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_b1k-BbKAHXSWA

u/demfeelz916 · 2 pointsr/Detailing

Eraser wheel.

ABN Rubber Eraser Wheel 4in Pad & Adapter 1-Pack - Pinstripe, Adhesive Remover, Vinyl Decal, Graphics Removal Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018WG2XYE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vkIKDb53F3HEB

u/Isogen_ · 2 pointsr/cars

You should be able to fix it with some wet sanding (go 400-600-800-1000-2000-3000-polishing compound). You should be able to buy an assortment pack that'll get you the above or similar combination. For example: https://www.amazon.com/Sandpaper-Furniture-Finishing-Automotive-Polishing/dp/B01LZ6TG05/ This is a random one, read reviews and pick a good kit.

Make sure to buy sandpaper designed for wet sanding. Let the sand paper do the work, don't push too hard on to the surface. Keep the surface wet with water. The water acts as a lubricant to keep the sandpaper from clogging up as well as controlling the dust.

edit:

Use tape to mask off the edges of the body work so you don't scratch it. I've found electrical tape to work extremely well for this. Once it's sanded and polished, apply a UV sealant or else your lights will start to yellow/haze after a while.

u/exccord · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Came out very well. I am a little picky about it all but considering I spent about an hour doing it (one headlight). I could have easily done another round though and it would have been slightly better but it was getting dark. I would highly recommend sticking with wet sanding all around because dry sanding it will clog up the sandpaper.

I 3d print so I had a bunch of sandpaper, unfortunately not enough of certain grits, but here is a link to the sandpaper I used. One sheet was good for one head light. Cheap and reasonable.

u/gabbagabbawill · 1 pointr/banjo

I just installed 4 spikes on my banjo. Placed them at the A, B, C and D frets on the fifth string. I installed the spikes facing inward (opening towards the other strings). I used this set of drill bits to drill the holes to set the spikes in:

http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-628-01-Piece-Drill-Bit/dp/B0000302Z3

I used the 1/32" (.03125") bit, which was very close to the diameter of the spikes, drilling the holes with the drill bit just touching the string and 3/8" back from the fret. I put a dab of Elmer's glue on the spike and inserted them with needle nose pliers. I used a .015 feeler gauge under the spike as I pressed them into place (no hammering). Then I masked off the fret board and filed the sharp edges away from the tops and sides of the RR spikes.

They work great, and only pull the string slightly sharp, but a quick retune is no big deal. I can still fret the string if I want to, barely being able to tell they are there.

It only took about 30 minutes. The longest part was the drilling, using a hand drill and being careful not to press to hard and break the tiny bit. Here are two links which helped me out:

http://www.deeringbanjos.com/blogs/faqs/10318861-how-to-install-spikes

http://zeppmusic.com/banjo/spikes.htm

u/idosay · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

I used these Dremel Drill bits on a regular drill to make the holes bigger on my IGO-L Cap. I didn't use the first one because it was the same size as the stock hole. I used the second one and tested after I cleaned it up. It wasn't enough for me so I went with the next size up, 1/16th I believe and that worked out for me. I've since used that bit to drill out an RSST and a mini DID clone.

u/SophisticatedPeasant · 1 pointr/nvidia

What I was thinking about doing is superimposing the G10 plate over the intel bracket and making markings through the C holes.

I found this Dremel drill bit set on amazon.com, do you think any of these bits will be the correct size and do you think a Dremel tool has enough torque to drill through the Intel bracket?

Although costly (total outlay $30 for Dremel tool and bits) this approach would allow me to cut the corners and drill the Intel bracket.

https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-628-01-Piece-Drill-Bit/dp/B0000302Z3

Seriously though, you should fabricate these brackets and sell them for $30. People would buy them. You can purchase them in bulk from Corsair for $10-15, make a few holes, turn around and sell them for $25-30. You sell 2-3 a day that's some money for not a whole lot of work.

Adding the required shim and these would sell with the demand exceeding supply of the EVGA Hybrid kits.

Pay less for vastly superior performance (with x41, H100i)

EVGA wants $120 for their H55 rebrand.

$60 for an H55 and $25-30 for your kit that's a no brainer.

u/TheSecretIsWeed · 1 pointr/electronics

I use the following(links below). I've seen them all available at walmart for not too much more.
Using the drill press you wont break any bits, at least I havent. If you size your holes correctly the lack of copper in the middle of the hole will guide your drill bit automatically so you can be off center by a small amount. I've made about 40 boards all with a crapton of holes and still havent worn out my smallest drill "1/32" bit which I use constantly.

The smallest drill bit I've been able to find is 1/32 which works for chips that fit into a breadboard. I haven't found smaller but if you see something smaller get it because even 1/32 is a pretty big hole for the majority of leads. Its about 2x too big for most chip feet.


http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-628-01-Piece-Drill-Bit/dp/B0000302Z3/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1414792230&sr=1-1&keywords=dremel+drill+bits


http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-4486-MultiPro-Keyless-Chuck/dp/B0000302ZV/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1414792230&sr=1-2&keywords=dremel+drill+bits

http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-Workstation-Drill-Press-Holder/dp/B008F6HLS0/ref=sr_1_4?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1414792250&sr=1-4&keywords=dremel+drill+press

u/giantrobotman · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

Definitely magnets. Not just so that you can switch out weapon configurations to allow your units to adapt and change roles as you add more units to your army, but also to future-proof your collection.

GW likes to do things like make a certain weapon loadout stomp face in one codex, and then be mediocre in the next update. The most notable time that this happened to me, I had recently finished building four broods of tyranid termigants with fleshborers. 60 models. There was no other way to go in that codex; if you built your 'gants any other way, you were wasting points. The new 'dex came out, the weapons didn't work the same anymore, and you were a fool not to take devourers. That was a bad day.

Magnets don't take much time (I spend less time magnetizing parts than I do scraping mold lines), and they don't really take a substantial investment, either. Here are the tools I use: pin vice with different sized collets (in the handle), $9.95USD; Dremel bits to gradually increase the size of the hole, important to start with a guide hole and gradually work up to the size of your magnet, $6.21, 200x 3mmx1mm magnets, 4.01. For $20.17, you can make your units super versatile, and know that you won't have to buy a new squad if GW changes the rules.

Although you're new to the game, magnetizing is a cool skill set to have. You have a lot more latitude when you make army lists (especially important for players that are developing a feel for the game, army, or local metagame), you can make dual-purpose squads (need jump troops? Good thing there are magnets on those backpacks!), and you can keep GW from making you choose whether to buy 60 more 'gants or try to pry off all of their stupid little arms and replace them.

u/AnEpicPie · 1 pointr/Gunpla

wow thanks! and uh would this drill set work ? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000302Z3/ref=gno_cart_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER and are there anything different with magnets found on amazon? i would prefer to order everything from amazon since i have a prime membership, if not no biggie just wondering.

u/abnormal_human · 1 pointr/woodworking

Use a router + a circle cutting jig.

Something like this would work if you're looking for a commercial solution. It's also possible to build your own. Not much too them.

u/dooshbox · 1 pointr/CarAV
u/mrm1776 · 1 pointr/CarAV

A jasper jig is exactly what you need... Harbor freight probably has them too.

http://www.amazon.com/Jasper-200J-Circle-Cutting-Plunge/dp/B00009K77A/ref=pd_sxp_f_pt

u/im_totally_working · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

CNC is going to be the most accurate. You can also get a circle jig for a router.

u/HeadOfMax · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

Boxer - Boxer 30 Pcs 4mm Precision Screwdriver Set - PK30 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FGQ1G6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_O..YzbM6B48CZ

I've had this kit for years since my day job was repairing computers. It hasn't failed me yet.

If you want a much nicer set wiha is one of the best brands when it comes to precision screwdrivers

Wiha 75992 System 4 Precision Interchangeable Bit Set, Torx, Slotted, Phillips, Hex Inch, ESD Safe Precision Handle, 27 Piece In Compact Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000WTBO4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qbaZzbCKNSP8S

u/Kenneth_The-Page · 1 pointr/Knife_Swap

if you want to stick with wiha and get a bit of other bits

cheapest wiha set



[this is what I used a for along time, the other bits come in handy for random jobs but it's a cheap metal that will warp sometimes. I mainly use the micro bit holder for my wiha bits now]
(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GYM7W6L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_UcmTCbSMSF3KB)


the cheapest micro bit holder, they other bits probably suck but the holders are usually fine, I mean, how can you really screw that up

u/Dhocum · 1 pointr/knifeclub

I got this set. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000WTBO4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 because you never if you'll need something other than a torx, like with the Sebenza that uses hex.

u/YosemiteSam357 · 1 pointr/knifeclub

Wiha, I bought this set when it was on sale a while ago to cover all my bases for knives and absolutely love it. I'm sure they have a torx set or something smaller closer to what you're looking for though.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000WTBO4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/dbinkerd · 1 pointr/ar15

Something like this might help. I know how small that roll pin must be, but I am not certain one of these tools will be small enough for the job. Might be worth it, though. Otherwise, a trip to a professional gunsmith might be in order. Good luck!

u/DsrtRunner · 1 pointr/videography

Get a screw extractor set from Amazon. Just make sure to get one that comes with left hand drill bits. You can often get the screw out just with the left hand bits before even needing to use the extractor.

This is a good kit if you want a variety of sizes for anything like this in the future:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002NYBH8/

u/Shtrever · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002NYBH8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_eCy4Cb467MDW6

I like these kinds of kits, I have one like this (not sure which brand). Those reverse drill bits sometimes work better than the extractors.

u/wolf9545 · 1 pointr/Tools

I own this set, http://www.irwin.com/tools/screw-bolt-extractors/10-pc-spiral-extractor-drill-bit-set-in-metal-index / https://www.amazon.com/Irwin-HANSON-Spiral-Extractor-11119/dp/B0002NYBH8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1521322834&sr=8-3&keywords=irwin+screw+extractor+set&dpID=410DHljAW2L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

and have used it once or twice. What I like about this one is the left handed drill bits. When you use the drill bit to round out the screw head, the left handed drill bits might just grab the screw and unscrew it for you.

u/smittyjones · 1 pointr/mechanics

I have these Irwin left handed bit/extractor set. I generally end up using them for all kinds of holes, even when it's not a bolt or I'm not trying to extract it, they just seem to cut really well, especially at the price point. I think lowes or home depot carries them too.

u/another_cube · 1 pointr/Miata

I've had success extracting a broken bolt with this kit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002NYBH8/

I'm sure any similar product will work.

u/M80IW · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

I like this set, all the extractors come with a matching left handed drill bit.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002NYBH8/

u/subcat · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I read that Hypersphere (guy who makes the Topre silencing rings of the same name) uses Super Lube 51010 to lube his Topre switches. Is there anything wrong with this lube that I should know (not plastic safe, wrong viscosity, etc.) before I order some?

Also, how long after using a keyboard should I lube it? A year or so?

u/Infinity_z · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

So stuff like this? Also, how do you apply grease/lubricant to the bearings? The rails/worm gear I’m assuming it’s directly applied, then the axis is moved up/down/left/right to apply throughout.


Zoom-SPOUT Sewing Machine Oil Oiler ~ 4FL. OZ.(118ml)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BYCKTW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6cPJBb3ZHQ8QH

3-IN-ONE Multi-Purpose Oil, 3 OZ
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002JN5PG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_HcPJBbYNBTFVR

Super Lube 51010 Oil Super Lube
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BXOGHY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_DdPJBbVT5E89G

Super Lube 21010 Synthetic Grease (NLGI 2), Blistered, ½ oz Tube
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BXKZQU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-dPJBbN0D6KVT

u/heloitsame · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

hey friends! would either of these be good for switch lube? going for hako clears/tealios if that matters, thanks!

edit: canadian, so id have to pay an arm and a leg for krytox/tribosys

edit2: or if you have other suggestions, im open to them!

u/Tkf530 · 1 pointr/motorcycles

I was able to spray some lubricant on the key itself to turn it so I can start it for an oil change. Do you think this product will work? https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000BXOGHY/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_apa_i_FLYXDbJX1G6C9

u/SirTimmyTimbit · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I'm getting my YMD96 kit delivered on Thursday. I want to clip and lube my stabilizers based on Kim's video.

I can find Dielectric Grease locally here in Toronto but I can't find any Finish Line Teflon Grease, or any other teflon grease for that matter.

Ordering 205g0 will take 6-10 days from Apex. Here are my other, immediate options:

u/NoSheDidntSayThat · 1 pointr/DIY
  1. buy a half in router, the 1/4" ones are mostly useless. Check craigslist

  2. buy this set of router bits, I don't think there's a better deal out there

  3. feed left to right, as you face the edge you're cutting

    It's not hard. I use a Makita RD1101 bought used, which I like because the grip allows me to keep pressure on top the the piece I'm cutting.
u/roostermathis · 1 pointr/woodworking

MLCS 8377 15-Piece Router Bit Set with Carbide-Tipped 1/2-Inch Shanks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FJRN8S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Wr2SybQJ8VEMY

I saw this set recommend in this sub. I have the same router as you and I've been happy with them.

u/spikeatcisco · 1 pointr/woodworking

If you buy ANY woodworking tools. I suggest a table saw (duh), a router and a router table. This is also the set I have that I bought to start with. Seems to be working great

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FJRN8S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/acarson13 · 1 pointr/turning

Face shield!!! $15

set of basic lathe tools PSI has a decent set for sale $80

http://www.amazon.com/PSI-Woodworking-LCHSS8-Chisel-8-Piece/dp/B000KI8CTS/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_4/180-3590963-5929100

Wood from neighborhood=free
reddit for cool ideas=free

you'll have to figure out where to spend your last $5

u/Chrisbeaslies · 1 pointr/Lathe

Here's some tools for turning. PSI Woodworking LCHSS8 Wood Lathe HSS Chisel Set, 8Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KI8CTS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_WgDVDbX2HTGM3 It's 70, but they have good reviews. But if you shop around for the same sort of keywords, and check reviews, you can find something good.

u/zpodsix · 1 pointr/turning

So just hauled my grandfather's lathe home and was anxious to start making wood chips and dust. Found a roughly straight oak log and went to town after de-barking.

Lathe I used. More info shows that it is a 12x42. After finishing the piece I noticed that the tailstock is seized up and not sure how to go about in repairing. I dosed with PB blaster and will let it sit for a day. I'm sure the friction and heat helped the bearing /s ... stupid I know.

Minus heating up the tailstock, the wood borer'd oak, and the dull chisels everything went well. I am looking at this set and this chuck, would these be good for beginner use? Looking for some feedback.

u/iepxs · 1 pointr/woodworking

I bought these http://amzn.to/2cohxkc and have been happy with them for a few years now. Don't forget to consider the price of buying a grinding wheel to sharpen the chisels you buy.

u/bebeschtroumph · 1 pointr/turning

What is the difference between these two sets(aside from number of pieces)?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KIECW4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KI8CTS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

I am trying to figure out what to get for my boyfriend for Christmas, and he's in a similar situation of having a lathe but no turning tools. I also have a face shield in my amazon cart. He's had a box of smaller turning blanks for a while now.

He does a reasonable amount of woodworking(makes a lot of furniture, is super into hand tools), but he's new to turning, so if you have any suggestions, it would be appreciated!

u/woodartisan · 1 pointr/woodworking

This was my first drill set and still is my drill set after many years of use and abuse Mikita

u/Hairyman76 · 1 pointr/DIY

I have a makita drill and impact set and it's been flawless for 5 years. http://www.amazon.com/Makita-LCT200W-18-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Cordless/dp/B000V2DSE2/ref=pd_sxp_grid_pt_0_1
Two years ago I built a privacy fence and wanted another impact driver with out the expense. I purchased the Ryobi bundle for $99.
I have had no issues with either, but as a home owner, Ryobi has so many other great affordable tools that the batteries work with.
https://www.ryobitools.com/power-tools/products/details/540

u/kewpur · 1 pointr/DIY

I purchased the Makita 18V Lithium Ion set linked earlier (http://amzn.com/B000V2DSE2). I love them, they work great and the batteries charge fast. One thing I wish I did was get the LXT version, which has a larger battery. I don't want this for longer run time, although that would also be nice, but it would run the rest of the cordless tools that Makita sells. Things like a circular saw, sawzall, shoot even a friggin leaf blower can all run on the same batteries. So I find my self now wishing I had originally bought the bigger battery set.

This one specifically: Makita LXT 18V

Reason being, it has the compact impact driver that everyone loves, and the hammer drill (which can switch between hammer function or normal drill function).

TL;DR: I wish I bought Makita LXT 18V over the Maktita 18V

u/whosgotthepudding · 1 pointr/Tools
u/NiceGuysFinishLast · 1 pointr/BuyItForLife

This is the kit I have. The smaller impact driver is phenomenal for about 99% of jobs, and lighter and more compact (as well as having a better heft or balance, IMHO) than most others.

u/ramennoodle · 1 pointr/DIY

I think Makita is an excellent brand. But the batteries are very small and low-power on that kit. If I where you, I'd spend a little more and get this instead: http://amzn.com/B000V2DSE2 . I have an older version of that set and it has worked well for many years. Although even those batteries are small-ish for big projects (e.g. insufficient drilling holes and driving screws to deck small porch in one charge).

u/saynotobread · 1 pointr/Carpentry

Looks good. Try using this:
Kreg Jig K4 Pocket Hole System www.amazon.com/dp/B001DYFISG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_z9z8wb79TPCTJ

u/jaydotelloh · 1 pointr/DIY

For future builds: http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-K4-Pocket-Hole-System/dp/B001DYFISG

Pocket holes are a great way of fastening boards together like this. This guy does some nice pieces using a pocket hole jig:

http://www.diypete.com/how-to-build-a-farmhouse-style-coffee-table/

u/incubusfc · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

My dad ended up putting a hinge with a board about 1x2 over the power controls. Drill a big enough hole to put your finger through to power it on, then a dowel or screw just over the off button. The board ran to the ground so all he has to do is slightly kick the end of the board to shut off the saw. Really simple and cheap way to hit the stop button quickly.


If you haven’t seen them already, there’s a product called sawstop.
SawStop TSBC-10R2 Table Saw Brake Cartridge for 10-Inch Blades https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001G9MGZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_61biAb9WAWE8Y
I think this is amazing. If you watch videos and look at their Instagram page you’ll see how they work and people that have had them work. You’re left with basically a scratch. It completes a current when you touch the blade then jams and aluminum block to the blade stopping it and then sucks the blade down. I don’t know which saws it fits though and the only other draw back is you need a new blade after and it may trigger on wet wood.

u/jontomas · 1 pointr/EngineeringPorn

it is literally just a $US69 single component sensor that needs to be replaced - plus the cost of replacing the blade if the blade is damaged. (The blades aren't always damaged and usually don't need to be replaced)

https://www.amazon.com/SawStop-TSBC-10R2-Cartridge-10-Inch-Blades/dp/B001G9MGZQ

u/quanimal · 1 pointr/woodworking

Can anyone tell me what the difference between the Microjig Gripper 200 and the Microjig Gripper 100 is? I can't tell the difference from the amazon pages other than that the 200 is 20 bucks more. I assume there are some new features in the 200, but are they worth an extra 20 bucks?

For reference, the 200 - http://www.amazon.com/Gripper-TM-200-Advanced-System/dp/B000H50BAC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1410386265&sr=8-2&keywords=microjig+gripper

the 100 - http://www.amazon.com/Micro-Jig-GR-100-GRR-Ripper/dp/B001I9UNWC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1410386265&sr=8-1&keywords=microjig+gripper

u/Phamine1313 · 1 pointr/woodworking

Here ya go GRR-RIPPER 3D Pushblock for Table Saws, Router Tables, Band Saws, and Jointers by MICROJIG https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001I9UNWC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_TcSXBbPYTVK0F

u/Jwilk420 · 1 pointr/woodworking

Ha.. That is exactly why I got them. There are 2 that I have.
This is the MicroJig one - http://www.amazon.com/Micro-Jig-GB-1-GRR-Rip-Block/dp/B00DNX3N7S
And the other is the GRRRipper - http://www.amazon.com/Micro-Jig-GR-100-GRR-Ripper/dp/B001I9UNWC
If you can afford it, get the 2 pack of the GRR Ripper. I like that one best.

u/ExBlizzardFanboy · 1 pointr/woodworking

I have a cheap table saw, and I am basically scared of it. I feel that if I had a griper that I might not be. I bought this shitty saw last year, and have only used it twice since, but I need it again for another project coming up. A garden bo, if you are interested. I currently only have 1 cheap plastic push stick that came with the saw, which by itself isn't even sufficient. So, I kind of need to buy another push stick regardless.

So, what do you guys think of it? Is it worth $60? Does it work well. Is it safer? Is there something better?

Here is a link to it,

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001I9UNWC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Here is the wood whisperer's video of it,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nE9RE3CEz4E

u/PawnE4Checkmate · 1 pointr/woodworking

I have a cheap table saw, and I am basically scared of it. I feel that if I had a griper that I might not be. I bought this shitty saw last year, and have only used it twice since, but I need it again for another project coming up. A garden bo, if you are interested. I currently only have 1 cheap plastic push stick that came with the saw, which by itself isn't even sufficient. So, I kind of need to buy another push stick regardless.

So, what do you guys think of it? Is it worth $60? Does it work well. Is it safer? Is there something better?

Here is a link to it,

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001I9UNWC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Here is the wood whisperer's video of it,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nE9RE3CEz4E

u/Mirarii · 1 pointr/Warhammer

It happens. Pin vises aren't too bad, and neither are brushes depending on what you are looking for. Army painter brushes are good, but they are probably not the best bang for your buck, I just like them because they work for me and I am comfortable with the sizes.

This is one of the two pin vises that I have and the same bit collection. There are plenty of options for everything, though, and if you take it slowly you will amass quite a collection of models and tools. I think limiting your warhammer budget is a good idea too- that way you actually PAINT the models you get and they don't just sit around.

u/tonytastey · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

This kit is only $27 shipped and has all the magnets you'll need unless you really go nuts - then you might have to get some more of the middle size eventually.

You also need a pin vice drill

But if you really can't wait, just go really easy with super glue on the arm joints - as that is typically where you magnetize. I'll get some pics here in a sec and update this post.

EDIT Ok here's a quick and dirty magnet album so you can get a good idea of which spots to magnetize. On the Thunderwolves I magnetized the rider in the ass so I can transport them easier. The arms are magnetized for weapon swapping. I also magnetized the backpack of any dude that might ever equip a Jump Pack (blood claws can quickly become sky claws, rune priests are great with jump packs so they can deep strike and psych). Dreadnought arms are pretty obvious. I also magnetized the hand on my battle leader using the smallest magnet size so I could give him a plasma pistol or a combi weapon.

u/guglielmotaro · 1 pointr/Vaping

Who said it has to be more?

u/whitesombrero · 1 pointr/fixit

Just some background – my sister asked me if I could repair her young daughters glasses since the new ones will take weeks to arrive. I took a look at them and told her that I would give it a try.

I noticed that the hinge was broken like this so I came up with what I showed in the pictures. Basically the pin is acting as a dowel.

Just though I would share since this is very very easy to do if you are handy with tools.

The small drills and chuck can be found online. Example: https://www.amazon.com/CML-Supply-Micro-Drill-Chuck/dp/B001RJE3X8/ref=redir_mobile_desktop/161-7421479-4802204?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=H9VB2SA2D97TJHZ7KSDR&ref_=pd_aw_sbs_469_3

These are the one's I used: http://www.micromark.com/the-rogers-drill-bit-set-61-80-set-of-20,8027.html

u/zymurgist69 · 1 pointr/DIY

Use a small drill bit- http://www.amazon.com/Mini-Micro-Drill-Vise-Chuck/sim/B001RJE3X8/2
and kill the leds one by one.

u/rkba260 · 1 pointr/KingdomDeath

Pin the SA...

Use a small drill bit with a hand chuck and drill up into the hooves. Then drill corresponding holes in the base. Clip off sections of a paperclip, inject glue into holes, insert paperclips, attach model to base and let sit.

Suggest doing the same for the Phoenix model.

It all sounds hard, but takes literally 5 minutes. And here's a decent [hand drill set] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001RJE3X8) that would work fine.

u/mr4dota · 1 pointr/Gunpla

You're looking for something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/PointZero-Airbrush-Compressor-Regulator-Water-Trap/dp/B004KNAHE2/

It's almost the same as mine.

u/RoboCopsGoneMad · 1 pointr/minipainting

Don't forget to get a moisture trap, something like this https://www.amazon.com/PointZero-Airbrush-Compressor-Regulator-Water-Trap/dp/B004KNAHE2 because compressing air wrings the humidity out of it, which can throw off the spray balance with acrylics. Other than that, any compressor will do, like most folks suggest. Depends on your tolerance for noise.

u/Slukaj · 1 pointr/Props

I used cheap-ass Master airbrushes and a 3-gal shop compressor with a digital regulator and a moisture trap in between the compressor and the brush. The below, plus a few trips to a hardware store for pneumatic fittings, should be enough.

https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Multi-Purpose-Gravity-Dual-Action/dp/B00EKUU0WY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1527561384&sr=8-4&keywords=master+airbrush

https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-C2002-Oil-Free-Pancake-Compressor/dp/B000O5RO1Y/ref=sr_1_3?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1527561398&sr=1-3&keywords=compressor

https://www.amazon.com/PointZero-Airbrush-Compressor-Regulator-Water-Trap/dp/B004KNAHE2/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1527561429&sr=8-6&keywords=airbrush+moisture+trap

https://alclad2.com/finishes/

People regularly say you should get a more expensive, higher quality brush, but to date I've yet to have major problems with my cheapo ones. It seems like the main benefit of the better brushes is ease of cleaning and durability.

u/egress123 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

thanks.

My badger compressor uses 'bleed-through' as well. (I think) It always runs no matter what.

I ended up ordering these two.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BROVMK
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004KNAHE2

Thanks for your suggestion!

u/MrGoob · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Hose (I'm using it with an iwata eclipse): https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01KDNSU4G/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Moisture trap/second regulator: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004KNAHE2/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I highly recommend a moisture trap with another regulator on it like that. It will give you fine control over the pressure. This one is a knock off of a few others that look/function exactly the same. The psi readout seems a little funny as pressure drops a full 10 psi when you start the air, but it doesn't seem to affect anything.

As for adapters, I needed a quick release tip, connected to an adapter, connected to a nipple (to extend the moisture trap further out because it touches the air tank), connected to the trap, connected to an adapter for the hose, connected to the hose. I can take a pic later if you'd like.

u/yjWrangler · 1 pointr/Trucks

http://www.amazon.com/3M-03612-Adhesive-Eraser-Wheel/dp/B005RNGN8I

If it's one like that it won't scratch anything. It'll leave a little rubber residue afterwards but that will polish right off.

u/WarWizard · 1 pointr/DIY

This is awesome; especially if you can figure out how to take things down in 24" wide sections.

http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-KMA2675-Rip-Cut/dp/B007K5HIFS

u/devilized · 1 pointr/AskMen

I see a lot of people saying another drill, but I'd rather have a saw and a crappy drill than two drills. If he works with a lot of flat boards, I'd say a circular saw and something like this. If he works more with dimensional lumber, a miter saw would be better.

u/object109 · 1 pointr/woodworking

And whats wrong with clamping a piece of wood down? Or yo could use this and your existing saw and save yourself $400. https://www.amazon.com/Kreg-KMA2675-Rip-Cut/dp/B007K5HIFS/ref=sr_1_14?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1473784486&sr=1-14&keywords=kreg+jig

u/ChrisTR15 · 1 pointr/woodworking

I used a circular saw with a straightedge jig at first but then I purchased the Kreg Rip-Cut. I didn't use it much before I got my $150 craftsman 113 belt drive-cast iron wings-table saw, and I think I might have used it (the kreg) once since then. If you make that straight edge guide, make sure the fence part is wide enough to place clamps on, and clear the saw motor while remaining clamped.
If your cutting wood more narrow than the jig, I screwed a stop block/riser, the same thickness as the piece being cut, from underneath and clamped the whole thing to a table, sandwiching the piece to be cut in between.

u/WredditReader · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement
u/skippingstone · 1 pointr/DIY

cut another hole above the stud, and use the following, and a 3/4 inch spade bit to cut a hole in the stud.

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWARA100-Right-Angle-Attachment/dp/B00C0VSNKQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1469205685&sr=8-4&keywords=angle+drill

u/RugerRedhawk · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

Can you get a right angle drill adapter to drill down from the attic?

Something like this: https://smile.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWARA100-Right-Angle-Attachment/dp/B00C0VSNKQ/

u/ComeOnYouApes · 1 pointr/DIY

Dewalt makes two attachments you could look at.

This is their impact driver rated right angle attachment. I use mine fairly often on the job, and it's held up to hard use, including running 1" spade bits with my impact driver. It's not something I use often but it can really get you out of a jamb.

They also make this flex shaft one, but I don't own one so can't personally comment on its toughness. It looks lighter duty but it would fit into even tighter or awkward spots.

u/Mango123456 · 1 pointr/electricians

I use a Ridgid impact driver with self-feeding Speedbor Max bits. They require nearly no effort at all. As long as you can pull the trigger, you can drill. They also work with right angle adapters and extensions.

I charge my batteries at night if I remember. I'm curious what impact uses both batteries to drill through 6 2x4s.

u/audigex · 1 pointr/HomeMaintenance

A drill plus a right angle adapter

You can also use a much smaller drill, or even better a compact impact driver which is a lot smaller than even the smallest drills

u/DerpDerpingtonIV · 1 pointr/DIY

Yeah, that sound good. I saw those Micro Mesh sanding pads and I think I am going to order them.

https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Mesh-Assortment-Pack-18-Pieces/dp/B00HJC156U

u/FrankieLynnsAttic · 1 pointr/woodworking

Thanks! Best tips I have are let your wood strips dry completely and don't let the CA glue get wet (it will turn ugly white), use at least 10 thin coats of CA sanding with 400 grit between coats, and buy some micromesh polishing pads. You can get them on Amazon for like 20 bucks. A buffing wheel or buffing dremel bit helps get it glossy at the end.

This is a decent tutorial if you don't have a lathe. I usually just use painters tape wrapped tight around a dremel bit until it fits snug to the inside of the ring and carve with a diamond tipped grinding bit of the proper size for the inlay. Poor man's lathe! You can also carve it with a sharp knife and a bit of patience.

u/vbf · 1 pointr/woodworking

can you chuck it back up? Try the micromesh pads

then a superglue finish or shellac (got those from the pen turner guys and gals)

while i agree that those grits are overkill for wood... what are you really out? an hour or 2 of work and 20 bucks of materials you can reuse in the future?



u/RodBlaine · 1 pointr/modelmakers

These, wet.

Once you get to the last one, break out some plastic polishing compound.

u/coldsolderjoint · 1 pointr/PipeTobacco

I generally use 4 wheels (Cotton Flannel Unstitched - The softest you can find, I ordered my current set from Foredom). One is brown tripoli, one is white tripoli, the next is wax, and the last is a dry buff.

For sanding, I like the micromesh pad set that reborn pipes uses: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJC156U/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Always wet sand. I also use a few high grit papers from home depot.

Also, I've found that if you just want to hit the rim real quick to take down a little lava build up, a mr clean magic eraser works really well.. but be very careful, you can go too far very easily.

I've found that pipe restoring is a hobby in itself, and you will learn to develop your own tools and methods. There are a few basic principles, but beyond that, it is a learning experience in itself, and you don't really have to rush out and buy everything all at once.

u/eaktheperson · 1 pointr/videos

Just a quick skim on Amazon and the 60v (as shown in the clip)... around 100usd for the 6ah, 200 for the 9ah and for whatever reason the 12ah is going for the same price as well. Just the battery, no charger.

I did get a few 18-20v adapters not too long ago and I'm super impressed what a new battery can do for the older tools. Not the most ergonomic, but def extends the life of the tool.

u/ganymede_mine · 1 pointr/AdviceAnimals

Get an adapter. Then buy the wiggly saw with a battery, they usually come with one free.

u/TK421isAFK · 1 pointr/electricians

I'm not sure. I think what I used was a retrofit-type battery - the batteries that you started seeing on the market 5 - 7 years ago that were designed to fit in existing 18-volt NiCad tools (center battery). Those seem to be getting somewhat scarce, too. I imagine it's cheaper to build a cell pack with just the cells and no charging circuit, thus having more contacts between the pack and charger.

For what it's worth, Dewalt now sells a lithium pack to NiCad tool adapter, but it seems kinda bulky.

I'll be at Lowes later, and I'll see if I can match up what I used. For some reason, I didn't leave myself a note in the charger. I usually do that, reminding myself what I used and the date I built the device, but I really didn't expect the motor to handle the increased voltage more than a few months. I did notice, however, that the donor charger has only one LED (flashing = charging, steady = charged) and that most newer chargers have several indicators. That could help figure out which charger I butchered.

u/radiobrain · 1 pointr/Tools

in case you didnt know this exists... dewalt makes an adapter that allows you to run their newer cells in old nicad tools.

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCA1820-Dewalt-Battery-Adapter/dp/B016K1UD0E

of course this would be more expensive than creating something yourself.

u/biggy508 · 1 pointr/Dewalt

They make a 18v to 20V battery adapter, Dewalt doesn't advertise it but in works great and will make the 18V tools last another 10 plus years
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016K1UD0E/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

u/draginator · 1 pointr/abarth

I used the same molding tape to attach as you did, to remove I used one of these rubber wheels and a drill to get the old adhesive off. You have to get the right technique of light pressure, but once you do it works perfectly.

Removing the gunk was the most tedious part of it, but once it was off and things were clean getting stuff reattached was a breeze. It's also very likely that you won't need those new fasteners and that the old ones are just popped out in a way that they can't be popped back in without twisting like you can when it's off.

u/192dot168dot · 1 pointr/howto

This thing ABN Rubber Eraser Wheel 4in Pad & Adapter 1-Pack - Pinstripe, Adhesive Remover, Vinyl Decal, Graphics Removal Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018WG2XYE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_w3w2DbDZV2EWK

u/GrimResistance · 1 pointr/DIY

This and a drill.

u/fxakira · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I usually buy Sandpaper with assorted grits like these and Wood craft sticks that you can also find in Walmart/Targets (if you're in the US) with some superglue. Just cut the sandpaper to the size that I can wrap it around the wooden stick, superglue it, and go nuts. I can usually go through a whole MG kit with one set of sticks (400/600/800/1200/2000/2400/3000 - I make all of those grits, but most of the time I will only use 800/1200/2000 for most builds) and just make a new set with a new kit.

u/TeleTuesday · 1 pointr/woodworking

So for the ScarySharp method, would these work?

There only a couple dollars cheaper than the stone, 3 sheets per grit. How long do you think that would last? I don't mind putting in the work to learn how to use a whetstone or keeping it flat (I've read you can do it on the sidewalk?)

u/boomerz87 · 0 pointsr/DIY

Kreg Jig.

edit: more specifically the Pocket Hole System

u/begin_again_2017 · 0 pointsr/EngineeringPorn

Yup. You blow a 70 dollar cartridge plus wreck your blade:
https://www.amazon.com/SawStop-TSBC-10R2-Cartridge-10-Inch-Blades/dp/B001G9MGZQ

u/neuromonkey · 0 pointsr/woodworking

One vote for GRR-Rippers.

u/V-chalk · 0 pointsr/Tools

I'm not sure why people downvoted you for pointing to the 100 series, which is impact ready.

Edit: dwara50 for drill, versus dwara100, for impact, on dewalt website. Seriously people, why downvote people trying to bring info to the table?

Edit2: maybe the impact rated dwara100 has more durable gears? According to the more informative amazon. So the dwara50 may be fine for impact uses but won't last as long. Anyhow, I'm not asserting who's right or wrong, only wanting to point out, the difference in 2 models.

u/t2231 · 0 pointsr/woodworking

I use sandpaper on a granite stone and am usually sharpening chisels and plane irons. Once you invest the time in getting them scary sharp the first time, maintenance isn't so bad.

My advice on the sandpaper method is:

  • Buy sandpaper strips in a variety pack. I usually get this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LZ6TG05/
  • Spend enough time at the lowest grit to achieve the flat back and proper angle quickly.
  • Don't skip grits. Work your way through the progression. It takes a lot longer to go from 120 to directly 400 than it does to go 120/220/320/400.
  • Personally, I invest the time to get only a portion of the back up to a mirror shine. Some people aim for getting the entire chisel/plane back to a mirror. I find this unnecessary. If you focus your efforts on the last inch or so, you'll achieve the desired result more quickly. Don't skip the step of polishing the back. You can only do as good as the highest grit on the back. If you sand the back to 400 and sand the bevel to 1200, you only have a 400-grit level sharpness.
  • Use a good honing guide to easily get the desired angle.

    Here is an article by Rollie Johnson on the subject: https://www.finewoodworking.com/2017/02/27/simple-sharpening-cart. You don't need four stones, and you don't need a cart. I do find the camellia oil helpful, but I have also had good success with water and with Windex.
u/smoof_daddy · -2 pointsr/jetski

Don't even mess with trying to heat and peel decals that old. Use a drill and a rubber eraser wheel. Heat guns are for amateurs that don't know any better.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B018WG2XYE/ref=yo_ii_pd_dx_gr_1/188-7323185-1878014?ie=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B018WG2XYE&pd_rd_r=MYRGCVXK6K2NTR47WFW0&pd_rd_w=s6OIm&pd_rd_wg=NzRRH&psc=1&refRID=PK1A5W57D0GPM348SN3F

You can thank me later.