Yea I have the Dremel 7700 Multipro with the coarse grinding bands. Just takes 2-3 quick passes per nail to grind them flat.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002BACCDA/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_e8i7wbRQW0SFZ

Edit:add link

It's not that much stuff - Here's the cheapest things on Amazon. For sure a lot better deals if you just go into Harbor Freight though.

Torch - $17

Mallet - $9

Jeweler Saw - $14

Tiny Files - $10 or A rotary tool - $15

​

A regular file - $8 (optional)

​

If you want to process the silver yourself you need a

Crucible - $15

That torch again

Tongs - $9

Welding Gloves - $9

Jewelry Rolling Mill - $169

I really love these bedsheets found on amazon.

Dewalt cordless drills are on sale right now.

I've had these dress belts for a couple years and really like them.

This is the best thermos I've ever had. Use it daily.

A little how-to:

1. Cut stencils from 110-lb paper
   
   
2. mark stencil mirrored on back of record
   
   
3. (i use a) Dremel Tool with these bits
   
   
4. The trick is to learn how the "burn" comes off of the record while you cut in order to get clean edges
   
   
5. Trim frayed label and rough edges with small Xacto blade.
   
   
6. Wipe with vinyl cleaner.
   

Buy a [dremel] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003TU0XFU/ref=mp_s_a_1_3/181-8200334-7124564?qid=1396637056&sr=1-3&pi=SY200_QL40). [Video] ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MH-tfjU1ruc).

I've heard a lot of people say that, and I won't deny it. But even as critical as I am of cheap manufacturing in China, I can't afford $270 for a drill when I can get another quality drill for $90. 3x the price just isn't doable, at least for an amateur.

Try a dremel if you have not already. The pressure from those clippers can be irritating even if they don't touch the quick

This would make it easier

Edit: Better link

This is a massive conspiracy. I found several online stores selling whats needed to build ghost guns.

https://www.harborfreight.com/8-in-5-speed-bench-drill-press-60238.html

https://www.lowes.com/pd/PORTER-CABLE-3-2-Amp-5-Speed-Bench-Drill-Press/1000183105

https://smile.amazon.com/WEN-4208-8-Inch-Speed-Drill/dp/B00HQONFVE/ref=sr_1_4?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1498684910&sr=1-4&keywords=drill+press

And they are all substantially cheaper. We should work on banning power tools. Think of the children. /s

DeWalt power drill with bit set and angle adaptor. Perfect set for someone newly living on their own or for someone who just doesn't have their own power drill. The angle adaptor is particularly handy.

I use these for my plug-in wall sconces and other 'ambiance' lamps around the house. They connect to an app and I have them on a timer from 5:30 to 11 every evening. You can also just control wirelessly from your phone.

I also use this lightbulb for my front porch - it's got a sensor to turn on at dusk.

I recently moved to a 2-story house with laundry in the basement and we use those giant ikea bags for hauling laundry up and down--works way better than our baskets.

One more thing...caveat I have NOT tested this out yet but it's in my cart. I think I got this tip from The Strategist but this buffer tool is supposed to be great for warming up muscles and massaging sore muscles! I have chronic, terrible shoulder pain and I'm praying this gives relief...ps this is not code for Sam from SATC and her Sharper Image massager ;)

This is a pretty popular one. I don’t have it but I’ve heard it works real well.

Bosch 1617EVSPK 12 Amp 2-1/4-Horsepower Plunge and Fixed Base Variable Speed Router Kit with 1/4-Inch and 1/2-Inch Collets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005RHPD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_sFIhAbT4DKK1X

According to /u/meangrampa it cost about 75$.

25$ for the angle grinder.

80$ for the drill press

30$ for the vice

And then you have tools you can use for other stuff too.

But let's be real, anyone who needs a square broach already have at least the drill and the vice.

I bought a Hitachi compound miter saw from a local big box hardware store. It doesn't cost a lot more, and it's taken everything I've thrown at it with no issues at all... It's light but solid, and powerful enough to handle hardwood and 4x4s without bogging down.

I have 7 routers at last count... but, if I only had one router in my shop, it would not be a compact router. It would be this one.

Most compact routers (including the Dewalt) only support a 1/4" collet. Bits with a 1/2" base are more common, and (generally) more durable.

This means that when you start collecting router bits, you will be forced to get all 1/4" base bits.

Once you go and get a big router that has 1/2" collet, then you will need to use an adapter to use your 1/4" bits. Not a huge deal, but, sincerely a pain in the ass.

These won't do well for big bits (for example, using a 1/2" straight cut bit to create a dado in hardwood - this thing would struggle)

I have a compact router (Bosch) that I only use for edge band trimming, and round-over duties.

I like it because it is light and I can run it easily with one hand.

You can spend WAY less. For one, buy tools as you need them, not all at once. To address some of your tools, here is my input. For reference, I am a homeowner and hobbyist woodworker, not a pro.

Table Saw: That Jet is overpriced for what you get. If you want to spend that much, get a SawStop, if you want a comparable saw to the Jet for significantly less, look at the Grizzly G0771z. I have the older revision of this saw(g0771) and love it. https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-10-Hybrid-Table-Saw-with-T-Shaped-Fence/G0771Z

Miter Saw: Ditch it. Anything you can do on it you can do on the table saw. Certain things are a bit easier on the miter saw like cutting molding, so if it is something you insist on, get a cheap one. You'll be surprised how little you use it.


Drill press: Can't beat free.


Router: Save yourself significant money but buying the Bosch 1617EVSPK. It is a combo plunge and fixed router(interchangeable bases) and is widely regarded as one of the best routers you can buy. https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-Combination-Horsepower-Variable-1617EVSPK/dp/B00005RHPD

Router Table: That one is nice, but there are cheaper options, such as build your own with MDF or look for used on Craigslist. This is a nice one, but expensive.

Modular Table Base: Not sure what you have in mind, but if you can build it definitely do so.

Jet Clamps: Nothing wrong with those, but they are expensive and probably more than you need. Have a harbor freight near you? Their clamps are cheap and decent enough. For more heavy duty applications, get some pipe clamps.

Dewalt Planer: If you have a need for a planer, yes this is the one to get.

Delta Jointer: Don't bother. You probably don't have a need for a jointer right off the bat and when you do, don't bother with the tabletop models. They are very limited with what you can get straight due to the short beds. Get a floor standing one with long beds. 6 inch wide if you must, 8 inch if you have the means.

Jet dust collector: This is another area where Harbor Freight shines. Jet is overpriced. The HF 2 HP is a great buy, make sure to use a 20% off coupon. https://www.harborfreight.com/70-gal-2-hp-heavy-duty-high-flow-high-capacity-dust-collector-61790.html

Band Saw: Don't bother with a 10 inch, it will be seriously limited. With the money you are saving on the other tools above, up your budget and get a Laguna 14|12 or 14bx. If that is too much, look for an older used 14 inch delta. Those old ones require a bit of cleanup but are built like tanks and will last you forever. No matter which saw you get, throw out the blade that comes with it and buy a good one. The Highland Woodworking Woodslicer blades are nice value for the price: https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodslicer-resaw-bandsaw-blades.aspx

Nail Guns: Do you really need a nailgun? And if you do, does it really need to be cordless? How much do you plan on using it. A combo kit with a compressor can be had for less than the price of one of the battery operated ones.

Paint Sprayer: How much do you plan on painting? A good roller is a lot cheaper if this is a one and done kind of thing.

Good luck and if you have any more questions I'll be happy to answer whatever I can.

I have the same saw. It's $120 from amazon. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000V5Z6RG

Let's see here.

drill - $89.00

bits - $14.99

grommet kit with punch - $14.99

So your solution costs $118.98

12 binder clips - $4.83

here's a knockoff dremel for thirteen bucks. how much is your time worth?

Bosch 1617 evspk is a solid choice

Avoid those cheap buffers and get yourself a Dual Action Polisher from a reputable brand. DA polishers are much safer on your car's clear coat and are user-friendly.

Griot's Garage 6" orbital polisher is a popular choice and will last forever.

Porter Cable makes a good polisher although it's not as powerful as Griot's and heavier.

MaxShine Shinemaster M8S is a great budget choice. I personally use this one and love it.

The prices for batteries are high because they can be. I have sold power tools for a few years and their are actually pretty good margins in them. Especially the bare tools. That is why, if a user needs a new battery, their best bet is to buy a kit to keep the batteries and part them out. For example, a Makita BL1830 Battery is 100.00 at Home Depot but you can get an LXT211 for 251-279 when on sale. It comes with 2 batteries, a charger, drill, and impact. All of which are sold for over 100.00 by themselves. This is why you see so many bare tools on Ebay for good prices. People buy the kits and break them down. There is so much profit in tools that you could purchase either of the kits below, break the parts down, and make pretty good money selling them on Ebay:

lxt211
dc970k2

Amazon will sometimes sell the 2nd kit for $89.00. DW9116 Charger -$15 DC9098 Batteries - $20 DC970 Drill - $34. If you search these on Ebay, you will see a couple sellers doing this. Hell, you could even break the items down and sell them on Amazon.

grab this one and all your concerns will be addressed. it has both fixed and plunge bases. 1/4 and 1/2 collets. plenty of power, and since the bases are removable it mounts great in a router lift or a non-lift table. The fixed base is even designed to work as a mini-lift, allowing adjustments through the table. I own three of these and love them.

edit: it also has quite a few available attachments, like dust collection, edge guides, etc. it's a great starter router and a great forever router, IMO.

DEWALT DW745 10-Inch Compact Job-Site Table Saw with 20-Inch Max Rip Capacity - 120V https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HXT2N6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_geUlzbS7H4WS2


I have had this saw for about 4-5 years and I'm continually impressed with its performance. It's small/light enough to be picked up with one arm, yet powerful enough to rip 4x of nearly any material. I strongly recommend it. I had used a Rigid saw before (comparable model) and this saw leaves it in the dust in every category. My 2 cents, good luck on your shopping!

>I have the same saw. It's $120 from amazon. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000V5Z6RG

Ah, that's no where near the same saw! YOU have a chop saw, he has a "sliding compound miter saw"!
Big difference!

That Makita one is OK but this bosch one is the router you want. It has more power, a plunge base, and both a 1/4 and a 1/2 inch chuck. It has all the power you should ever need and it is variable speed.

$45 on Amazon, definitely worth it.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00068P48O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RQFxCbAMKZEKR


If you don't have a workbench you can bolt the workstation down on, I would advise getting some of these clamps (not these exact ones, but this style) to keep the base from moving around. You can put them on the backside and it usually won't interfere with the project.

A good drill is key. It's silly to stick to one brand (many people have the bs brand loyalty fetish and I'm not sure why). You'll also want to get a variety of drill bits to go with drill. Go to garage sales and start hoarding nails, screws, etc at cheap prices.

My recommendations below are based on at least 5 hours of research and shopping around. There are some things I'd probably add to the list (like a hand saw and dremel) but this takes care of a lot of your big needs. I own everything on the list and am pleased with it all, especially in terms of a performance for value ratio.

The key is know what you want then shop around / wait for the best prices (track prices in spreadsheet). Use google shopping to compare prices and see who price matches plus has best ebates or Ibotta cash back % + consider buying gift cards at a discount on Raise or elsewhere to further maximize savings (or just go with whatever credit card gets best points on particular site). Add Google Chrome app "Honey" to have coupon codes auto applied (eliminates time searching for them).

Also, I'd strongly consider getting a credit card with a decent bonus that will essentially help you get these items for free (assuming you can achieve the bonus spend with money you're already paying on existing bills / monthly purchases - it's a no-brainer in this case) - Chase's Sapphire Preferred is a good place to start ($500 bonus for 4K spend in 3 months)

Consider waiting until Black Friday (and from Jan to end of feb) for the good deals.

Drill (get a decent to really good one - you'll use it often)

• This one goes on sale for $99 on BF though you may be able to find it elsewhere for that price or cheaper now:
  
• Makita XPH102 18V LXT Lithium-Ion Cordless 1/2" Hammer Driver-Drill Kit (3.0Ah): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L84A470/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_Wv.BzbSZ9FGJH
  
  Circular Saw
  
• cordless is usually unnecessary - this one goes on sale for ~$70 on BF:
  
• Hitachi C7ST 15-Amp 7-1/4-Inch Circular Saw https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007QESNMU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vy.BzbT32M7T2
  
• honestly I haven't used this as much as a muti-tool but many DIY blogs say you need one... not sure I agree but it nice to know I have it
  
  Multi-tool
  
• This one goes on sale for ~$99 on BF - there are cheaper ones but I like this one a lot and it has a lot of power and attachments:
  
• Rockwell RK5151K 4.2 Amp Sonicrafter F80 Oscillating Multi-Tool with Duotech Oscillation Angle Technology and 10-Piece Accessory kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HD4EQTG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_EA.BzbQ9KM4AQ
  
  Miter saw
  
• I've used this more than circular saw - it's much more accurate and fast for most jobs - went back and forth about getting a saw with a larger blade but ultimately decided 10in is enough for most jobs and I've been correct in that assumption so far:
  
• Hitachi C10FCE2 15-Amp 10-inch Single Bevel Compound Miter Saw https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000V5Z6RG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_UF.Bzb0CFWDHT
  
• paid ~$99 by buying on Jet and getting their 15% off first three orders + Ibotta 5% cash back
  
  Respirator
  
• may seem like overkill but don't fuck with your lungs: GVS SPR457 Elipse P100 Half Mask Respirator, Medium and Large
  
• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013SIIBFQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_HD.BzbREVSMX6
  
  Horse (the 'roided out version)
  
• this has come in really handy for me as it often helps to get stuff done without extra help:
  
• Rockwell JawHorse Portable Material Support Station – RK9003 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007XRFQKW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0E.Bzb9V02GJV
  
  Sander (makes a huge difference): I've seen it in the low $40 range
  
• DEWALT D26441 2.4 Amp 1/4 Sheet Palm Grip Sander with Cloth Dust Bag https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009WRKUC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wW.Bzb3CAWTZ9

Okay. First off, I'm a newb so take my advice with a grain of salt.

Basic detailing goes like this

1. Wash / Dry car
   
2. Clay bar
   
3. Polish [multi-step = (Cutting -> Polishing -> Finishing)]
   
4. Wax (remove)
   
   You can google / youtube for detailed instructions on each step.
   
   I use a Porter Cable for application / removal
   
   For polishing, it can be a multiple levels of polish. Think of polish as a really fine sand paper in a liquid. Wipe immediately any that you get on plastic / rubber.
   
   They make different applicator pads and compound for different levels.
   
   They make buff pads for removing wax
   
   For black plastic /rubber you can use [Mother's Back to Black](http://www.amazon.com/MOTHERS-6112--Black-
   Plastic-Restorer/dp/B00GZLMEN4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417395899&sr=8-2&keywords=back+to+black)
   
   Buy a shitload of microfiber towels.
   
   You can get 99% of what you need at Autozone. Once you start getting professional, then maybe you need to go online to get the good stuff. I don't know.
   
   
   What you can do is experiment. Wash / Dry / Clay only the hood. Then use painter's tape and divide the hood into four sections. Experiment with the different levels of polish in each quadrant so you can see the different. Experiment with different application removal styles etc until you're happy with the results then repeat on the whole car.

Amazon has dremel 4000 set for $44.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002L3RUVG/

Hello,

Professional amateur rollerskier here:

Step 1. Pick up some rollerski specific carbide steel tips such as these


Step 2. Use them and keep those tips SHARP! So many people do not sharpen their tips before they go out to their detriment.

For sharpening I reccomend buying a dremel tool such as this and then using these tips

Step 3. Sharpen often! In my opinion, it is better to sharpen a little bit every time than a lot every once in a while.

I hope this has been helpful!

Be the change you want to see in the world.


BLACK+DECKER LDX120C 20V MAX Lithium Ion Drill/Driver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NNF0YU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HSyLBb3SQVZRR

I purchased my screen from AAA Retro Gaming on eBay.

These kits and screens are all coming from the same place in China. One store won't have a magical better stock than another. The one linked above will come with the 40-pin Type B cable (if needed), along with a glass screen lens.

----------------------------------------

Not necessary, but it'll make your life easier ... a rotary tool.

I chose this one because of the bundled accessories and case, along with it's high rating. I've used one and couldn't tell the difference between this and a Dremel.

----------------------------------------

If you go the rotary tool route, get some eye protection. Bits may go flying directly into your face.

----------------------------------------

Can't forget the soldering iron.

I chose this configuration because it comes with stand, solder and other accessories for only $16.

----------------------------------------

Flush cutters will help you get to spots too tight for the rotary tool. This isn't necessary, but it's very useful when needed.

----------------------------------------

For various other mod bits, I've ordered from quite a few stores.

• Hand Held Legend - If you're in the US, these guys are my favorite. They'll get your package out within 24 hours.
  
  
• Retro Modding - They're based in Canada and shipments are ... a bit timely. Personally, it took 18 days for my package to arrive (to Chicago).
  
  
• eBay - Just make sure where the seller is from. (If the item is too cheap, it's coming over very slowly from China.)

I use this thing. It's cheap, comes with plenty of attachments, and cuts through springs and aluminum stock just fine. The cutting wheels it comes with suck though, so plan to spend another couple bucks on some that are properly reinforced.

WEN 2307 Variable Speed Rotary Tool Kit with 100-Piece Accessories https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A8DXKXS/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_5AzPub0GVDG02

Forstner bits.

A Drill Press like this one would allow you to control the depth of your cutting, accurately to within a millimeter.

For an extra 30 bucks, this works surprisingly well

https://www.amazon.com/WEN-4208-8-Inch-Speed-Drill/dp/B00HQONFVE

JessEm Rout-R-Lift II
http://www.jessemdirect.com/Rout_R_Lift_II_p/02310c.htm?1=1&CartID=0

Bosch 1617
https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-1617EVSPK-4-Horsepower-Variable-Collets/dp/B00005RHPD

I may upgrade the router later if I need to. I just happened to have this one.

I hear you, but there is only one way to get that experience. You don't need a workshop either...

You could do it well with:

• circular saw ($50)
  
• cheap drill press ([$50 w/ coupon](https://m.harborfreight.com/8-in-5-speed-bench-drill-press-60238.html?utm_referrer=direct%2Fnot%20 provided))
  
• handheld router ([$75] (http://www.cpooutlets.com/factory-reconditioned-ridgid-zrr2401-1-6-hp-laminate-trimmer/rgdrzrr2401,default,pd.html?ref=pla-mobile&zmam=31282435&zmas=47&zmac=722&zmap=rgdrzrr2401&gclid=Cj0KEQjwmv7JBRDXkMWW4_Tf8ZoBEiQA11B2frK1GwIs5sOvBFNJc6Fp5FC55fP6LjREXE_W7j_HsdQaAjuc8P8HAQ) + ~$20 for bit kit)
  
• handheld drill
  
• handheld sander
  
  It'll be more than a weekend project with those, but a great experience.
  
  A table saw (~$200+) and/or miter saw ($100) aren't needed, but would speed that up significantly.

Ya I love this guy and this stud finder. Made an amazing doggy door through my wall to the side of the house for a dog potty area, only took a couple days with the right tools.

Actually, this is just from a wash and Chemical Guys Blacklight

About a month ago I did a full detail which included:

• Wash and Clay Bar
  
  
• Meguiars M205
  
  
• Meguiars M21
  
  All applied with a Porter Cable DA polisher and some high quality Micro Fiber towels

One of the most popular options - and for good reason - is the Bosch 1617EVSPK kit. This kit combines an excellent router with both fixed and plunge bases and includes both 1/4" and 1/2" collets.

Bosch 1617 Fixed and plunge base kit or the Dewalt 618 Combo kit

I own them both (and 9 other routers) and they're both solid and versatile kits:

• 1/4 and 1/2 collets
  
• Fixed and Plunge bases
  
• Decent warranties
  
• Good power
  
  But I'd go with the Bosch because it's currently on sale. I'm not really a fan of the fixed bases knobs though.
  
  And if you've never used one, please read up on safe practices and avoid climb cutting.

Honestly, this question can be asked about any tool. Should a hobbyist buy cheap tools just to get started or spend more on quality tools, but buy fewer of them at first?

For the most part, I'm in the "buy quality tools" camp. I started out on the cheap tools (Skil, Ryobi, etc) and they made a lot of tasks harder than they needed to be. That is, a skilled craftsman could have gotten quality results from those tools but I certainly couldn't. I found that the quality of my work jumped dramatically when I switched to precision tools.

Now... in your case, none of three routers that you're referencing would be in the cheap crap territory, as far as I'm concerned. You'll do fine with any of them.

Some thoughts, though:

The Bosch 1617EVSPK is often considered the gold standard for mid sized routers. Many many woodworkers have that one and love it. You will absolutely not regret getting it.

The DeWalt DW618PK is a direct competitor to the Bosch and holds its own very well. Lots of very satisfied users of that model, too. Another that you'll definitely love.

The Hitachi models... are almost surely worth getting as well. I'll be honest, though -- they aren't talked about as much as either the Bosch or DeWalt.

One final thought: Depending on how you'll use a router, you might consider a "trim" router like the DeWalt DWP611PK. I've found that one to be notably easier to handle than my mid sized and it has handled everything I've thrown at it with aplomb. Really, the only downside is that it can only accept 1/4" shanks and most of my bits are 1/2". If I had more 1/4" bits then I'll likely use the DWP611PK almost exclusively when not on the router table.

I agree with the other poster. A router would be great. I'm also beginning at this, and I have a miter saw, table saw, trim router, and circular saw. While the miter saw is fast and easy for crosscuts, it only does crosscuts. A table saw will do crosscuts and rip cuts. The only place where a table saw sucks at crosscuts is long lumber.

A router, however, can be used for edge profiles, dados, slots, rabbets, mortises, etc. A table saw can do dados and rabbets.... But if the board is too long, it can't do dados, and rabbets might be unruly. The only power tool you have that can do mortises is a drill, but even that would be better with a drill press.

I suggest a router. The Bosch 161EVSPK is highly recommended and can be used for basically anything you would throw at it as a new woodworker. It comes in at 220$ but includes both the plunge base and the fixed base. The fixed base can easily be installed in a router table (either shop made or purchased) and you can do depth adjustment from above the table.

This is the router that came fairly highly recommended back in the day when I was looking then I got a down spiral cut bit for my plunge cuts (1/4" since that is what the jasper jig uses), a few roundover/chamfer bits, and a flush trim... Bosh makes pretty good bits for the price so I usually stick with them. Looks like amazon is even running a $20 off dewalt tools right now too.

As far as a "bench" you don't need anything fancy most of my work has been done on a piece of 2'x4' ply on saw horses. With powertools you don't have much lateral force so you don't need something as sturdy as you would if you're using planes, hand saws, and chisels. You just have to be careful about making sure things are balanced and clamped properly so you don't accidentally tip your work surface. Bonus is that it can be folded up and stored easily and if you need a special spot to clamp just right I just cut into the ply.

https://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-WP900-6-Inch-Polisher/dp/B000077CPT

this. press it into your body

One of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000077CPT/

My little Makita is a “big bore” design, similar power to what the HF 21g claims. Nice and quiet. Under 80db from a few feet away.

I’ve been thinking about doing a bad thing… sticking the Makita’s pump & motor into the big cheap HF tank and throw away the noisy HF assembly.

Definitely interested in the new stuff from HF!

Be aware that small drill bits are very easy to break. If this is something you're doing regularly, look into getting a drill press setup.

Here's an example: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00068P48O/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474267831&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=Dremmel+press&dpPl=1&dpID=31MGyrXrX5L&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7424XP-6-Inch-Variable-Speed-Polisher/dp/B002654I46 is a great starter and fairly capable, I still use mine for personal and some jobs.

Dremel. Haven’t torn in over three years since buying this.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002BACCDA/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1524420440&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=drimmel&dpPl=1&dpID=31J1yFAxAlL&ref=plSrch

As someone working through this but a few years ahead of you, I'll pass along the list of stuff I've bought and/or wish to buy...

Hand Tools

1. You say you have screwdrivers, but ifs worthwhile to have a full complement of them. You might consider getting a hand tool set like this one. Also, diagonals. Can't stress that enough. Eventually, you might upgrade a lot of these, but it'll get you started.
   
   
2. Ratcheting wrenches, along these lines. Conventional wrenches are functional, but these are much more so.
   
   
3. Ratcheting hex key set. In fact, this one looks good. If you have any Ikea furniture in your future, these will be worth their weight in guld.
   
   
4. Maybe a vise. That particular vice is mid-priced, but you can find well-reviewed vises at just about any price point.
   
   
5. A good range of sand paper grits: 80, 100, 120, 150, 180. You might also pick up a sanding sponge.
   
   Power Tools
   
   
6. A Dremel
   
   
7. Maybe an electric circular saw or a jigsaw. I really don't know which I'd prioritize, but you should probably have at least one of them.
   
   
8. If there's money left over in your budget, I'd suggest a random orbit sander.
   
   
9. A drill press
   
   Also, there are fluids to consider
   
   
10. Simple Green
    
    
11. Penetrating oil
    
    
12. Wood Glue
    
    
13. Mineral Spirits
    
    
14. Linseed Oil
    
    Of these, I'd focus on the hand tools, fluids, and the Dremel. You can always ask someone to buy you a saw for Christmas. If you have these things on hand, there probably won't be a job come along that you can't handle at some basic level. I'm assuming you don't need yard grooming tools, because that's an entirely different list.

You're getting downvoted, but you are probably right. The batteries that were most commonly marketed as 18V were substantially heavier.

The difference is the battery tech: The 18V one would be NiCad, the 20V one is LiPo. LiPo's have much greater power density, so they use a smaller battery to get the same capacity. The also hold a charge considerably longer between uses and don't have the issues with memory.

You could also get a heavier battery by increasing capacity (more use between charges). That's probably not the case here since they would likely both be 20V if they were LiPos, but it's possible.

Edit: Err... LiIon, not LiPo.

Hopefully you enjoyed the process, so there will be more wood pipes to come from you.

You can get a WEN rotary tool kit for $20. It fits the standard Dremel bits. You'd need to get a set of wood carving bits, which would run you maybe $10. With the flex shaft it's just like using a power knife.

You can get a cheap rotary tool that'll probably do the job fine

Dremel 7300-N/8 MiniMite 4.8-Volt Cordless Two-Speed Rotary Tool


Just use the brown one that’s for sanding and start on the lowest setting and move it around his feet only touching him the the end of it,the battery part, To get him used to the noise.
It should last you a good while since you’re only doing his feet. Good luck and I hope it helps :)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00A8DXKXS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494609770&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=corded+dremel&dpPl=1&dpID=416s2AicPtL&ref=plSrch this one looks like it'd fit your needs. The biggest difference in dremels is how powerful they are. You aren't trying to router through inches thick wood or metal so you don't need anything extra fancy. I have found that bit sizes are not universal though, so mind that detail when purchasing accessories.

I've recently bought this from amazon. Reviews seem pretty good in comparison to Dremels, but there are a lot more reviews.

Edit: it's also 15 dollars, 20 with the flex shaft.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A8DXKXS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

How about an air filtration system? Something like this or this

They're commonly used in wood shops to collect saw dust and other fine particles, but seems like it fits your application.

Agreed.

Followed this tutorial.

Got everything from amazon. Went with this dremel since it came with the polish wheels. This add-on item polish.
And these for safety. (And to meet the minimum for the add-on item.)

With 0 dremel experience, it was still easy. Didn't even mess up the glass, but I'd already upgraded mine to sapphire so I can only speak for that.

It could be that she doesn't like the sound the clippers make but what I've noticed while working is that most dogs don't like the pressure you put on the nail before you actually clip them because you're trying to avoid the quick.

I'm a groomer but before I even went to school for that I use to do everything for my dogs when it came to grooming, bathing and caring for their nails. When the time came to clip the nails I would slowly put pressure on the nail so I could clip it and avoid quicking them but it would freak them out because I was doing it that way.

I looked up videos of people using peanut butter to occupy them while you're cutting the nails and to take very little bits of nail off in one quick snap of the clippers and when they didn't react to it I would praise my dogs and let them know it was okay. Most of my dogs have black nails so I did it that way and now they're all comfortable with the nail clippers and the Dremel. I kept a routine on them and cut them every 2-3 weeks so not only will they get use to it I can keep the nails short. Now I just clip them and dremel off the sharp corners.

These are the nail clippers and dremel I have and that I personally love. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002ARUKQ?pc_redir=1411784168&robot_redir=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003TU0XFU?pc_redir=1411972862&robot_redir=1

You can get the clippers at Petco, Petsmart or pet supermarket and the Dremel you can find in the automotive section of Walmart.

DEWALT DCD771C2 20V MAX Lithium-Ion Compact Drill/Driver Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ET5VMTU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5qHqxbXAT6C30

Could check local hardware stores as well they sometimes have deals on dewalt or Milwaukee power tools. Those are the brands I tend to stick with, not saying others aren't good but they're tried and true for me.

Well, you could always go this route:

https://prima-coffee.com/equipment/helor/helor-101

https://www.amazon.com/Dewalt-DCD771C2-Cordless-Lithium-Ion-Compact/dp/B00ET5VMTU/

:D

1. Around the $200-250 mark is the sweet spot of good routers in my opinion. I haven't personally used it but this bosch gets very good reviews and costs $200. I personally have this Triton router. It really depends what features you need. The Bosch is a good general use router which will be able to tackle most tasks. The Triton is good if you intend to use in a router table because it has a built in lift system. Another nice thing about the triton is its basically a fixed based and plunge router in one so you dont have to change the bases. That's not really a big deal as changing bases isn't hard but it is nice.
   
   
2. Pretty much all routers will come with a fence for straight cuts. Others than that jigs depend on what tasks you want to use the router for, I don't think there's any must haves. Most router jigs can be built out of offcuts and scraps so you can just make them as you need them.
   
   
3. Yes, you can replace the functionality of a router with hand tools. It might not be practical though and will definitely cost you more money. A router basically replaces any joinery plane or moulding plane. You'd need a plough plane, rebate plane, router plane, and a half dozen moulding planes to replace the basic functions of a router, and more for specialty work. Before routers a wood worker would have around 50 to 60 different planes to do the jobs a router can do.
   
   
4. Companies like Ryobi don't necessarily make crap tools but they're geared towards people doing DIY type work. They aren't made to the same level of quality as better brands. In my opinion for something like a router its worth getting something a bit better.
   
   
5. Routers have a lot of functions, too many to list. You've covered the basic ones such as mouldings and joinery. Some others include inlay and template routing. They're a very versatile tool. I wouldn't worry too much about learning everything all at once. Once you start using it you'll learn how it works and what you can do with it.

I've been very happy with my Bosch. Part of the reason I bought it too is because another base can be bought for $50 that has a long hex key for raising and lowering from a table top. I haven't build the extension for my table saw yet, but can't see it giving me any issues mounted that way.

The PC that the other two mentioned here seems nice also though. I've just never had good luck with PC, or Dewalt for that matter. I guess it's a preference though.

http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-1617EVSPK-4-Horsepower-Variable-Collets/dp/B00005RHPD

This is in my amazon shopping cart.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00005RHPD/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Bosch 1617EVSPK 12 Amp 2-1/4-Horsepower Plunge and Fixed Base Variable Speed Router Kit with 1/4-Inch and 1/2-Inch Collets

I'd recommend the equivalent DeWalt. I've got that kit and it's fantastic, and it happens to be on sale for Father's Day. Get it while the getting's good.

If he's got a shopvac that's 2.5" or 4", consider getting an adapter to smaller size so it'll integrate with the dust collection in the plunge base. Also consider an edge guide with integrated dust collection, or maybe a starter bit set. I wouldn't invest a lot into bits until he knows what he wants to build with it, then get one or two nice bits for that particular project.

I have a cheap orbital car buffer that I use to get out muscle soreness. I have this one and use it with the soft wool pad. Light pressure flat on big muscles does a general massage and I use the edge to dig into knots. It sounds utterly ridiculous, but a CrossFit friend turned me on to this and it really works. I got a better massage with it in 5 minutes than any foam roller, stick, or deep tissue massage I've ever had.

Also, it exfoliates and works pretty well for buffing your car (4 stars on Amazon) :)

I tend to prefer 15 gauge finish nailers mostly because I feel like they can get into tighter spots with the magazine being angled. I've heard others say 15 exterior trim, 16 interior trim.

If your sole/primary use for the air compressor is the nailer get a smaller lighter compressor. My dad gave me his 4 gallon porter cable because its a pain in the ass to move around and he replaced it with a porter cable pancake
(on sale at lowes for $100 until 25th).

If I was spending the money I would buy this http://www.amazon.com/Makita-MAC700-Big-Bore-Compressor/dp/B0001Q2VK0/ easier to move around than my pain in the ass porter cable and running a proper oil lubed pump should mean it will last forever. I'll probably pick one up when I do siding.

I own this one

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0001Q2VK0/ref=redir_mdp_mobile/187-4516976-8219365

Great machine. Cast iron parts, most quiet compressor I've ever owned. By rough estimation, I'm expecting this to out last me.You can get one with two tanks for more capacity, but its really heavy. Same motor and pump for both one tank or two tanks.

Hope you spent less than $45

With what your going to do I would get a 10 inch miter...not sliding. unless you just want to spend the extra money.

(whooops....link removed.....didn't realize we could only link products from blue/orange/amz.)
alternate link....https://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-C10FCE2-15-Amp-10-inch-Compound/dp/B000V5Z6RG

For the table saw...I would search craigslist and get a full size saw and add a set of wheels to it...like these

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000223CL

I would search craigslist for the table saw.

There are only a few reasons to even get a miter saw.
Its easier to crosscut long pieces accurately.
You get quick access to a dedicated crosscut blade instead of swapping one into table saw.

Other than that, I tend to use the table saw. Even when I am crosscutting a lot of short material, I use a crosscut sled on my table saw. I only use my miter saw to rough cut and break down long boards.

If I was you I would buy that 100 buck miter and lump that other 200 in on my table saw money, wait and watch craigslist to get a better table saw with a solid top.

Porter Cable 7424XP can be found at Amazon and I would highly recommend the following Junkman videos specific to that DA Polisher. Also he states some supplies to go along with the polisher to help with your shopping list for your brother.

PC7424: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002654I46

Videos: http://youtu.be/KP-eAddv2sk

PORTER-CABLE 7424XP 6-Inch Variable-Speed Polisher 119.99 over at Amazon. It's the most/best rated.
PORTER-CABLE 7424XP 6-Inch Variable-Speed Polisher
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B002654I46/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KspZCbNJV560D

a basic walkthrough of the steps involved are as follows:

• wash your car with dish soap to strip any wax on it (really!)
  
  
• use a clay bar kit from the auto detailing section of the store to rub down the panels and soak up any contaminants bonded to the paint. it should usually come with a bottle of quick detailer to allow the clay to slide along the paint. you're not buffing here, just trying to catch all the tiny specs of dust bonded to the paint that a wet sponge won't catch. you don't want to polish those into your paint because you'll cause more scratches if you don't remove them.
  
  
• use a cutting polish recommended for your particular paint condition, I won't tell you what to use because it's always something highly debated.
  
• I recommend that you use a Dual-action rotary buffer or just a shitload of elbow grease, time, and a soft towel. It can be done by hand, but your arm and shoulder will be very sore when you're done.
  
  
• finish with a good quality wax or paint sealant.
  

Devotion to one deity or another is a little bit of a touchy subject around here, so I won't go into that, but if you want to make an amber pendant with a rune on it, I don't think anyone would argue.

If it were me, I would start with something pre-polished like this and then either buy or borrow a rotary tool such as the Dremel in that link and carve it yourself. Fill with enamel or paint, you can find smaller quantities at a hobby store, to make it more visible. If you use a latex-based paint, you'll want to seal the whole bead with a polyproplene (sp?) or something similar. Then use the same tool or a drill to drill a small hole in it and put it on a cord, or you can find jewelry mounts on Amazon as well but they're going to be more "effeminate." With Amber, you'll want to use slow speed for carving and drilling as it could be a little more fragile. You could also find a pre-drilled bead and do the same thing, I saw some on Amazon doing that search that had reinforcing grommets out of stainless steel.

EDIT: If you're not keen to do all that work or want something more specific, there's a pendant from Jelling Dragon which is claimed to be based on a "Viking find from Sweden," looks like a mini-statue of the goddess and it only runs $24 in bronze or $42 in silver.

Not that I'm advocating vandalism or anything because that would be illegal and bad, of course, but I'm [just say'n...] (http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-7700-1-15-MultiPro-7-2-Volt/dp/B002BACCDA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1374722229&sr=8-1&keywords=battery+operated+dremel)

>Does anyone know how to remove this?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002L3RUVG

If you look at how the process is done, undoing it just means cutting/grinding the weld.

Hey OP depending on how much cash you got/What you want to make I can recommend you get this router here.

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-1617EVSPK-4-Horsepower-Variable-Collets/dp/B00005RHPD/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1484624879&sr=1-1&keywords=bosch+router

It has sufficient power to handle most bits and has a super convenient height adjustment that can be used over the table with a hex key. It also comes with two bases (plunge and fixed) so you can just yank it out whenever you need it and not have to unscrew it.

Now if you want something that will handle anything you throw at it you can get one of those 3 1/4 HP monsters which will handle every massive 3 1/2 inch raised panel bits with ease.

Some good routers are:

https://www.amazon.com/Triton-TRA001-Precision-Plunge-Router/dp/B00779ND0Q/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1484625229&sr=1-4&keywords=triton+router

https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7518-Speedmatic-5-Speed-Router/dp/B0000222V3/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1484625371&sr=1-1&keywords=porter+cable+3+hp

OR if you got the cash you can buy Festools best router:

https://www.amazon.com/Festool-574354-EB-Router-2200-Watts/dp/B0079XHISS/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1484625654&sr=1-2&keywords=festool+router

As far as insert plates are concerned Kreg makes the for several routers our you can get them from the manufactures of the router themselves.

$50 off the Bosch Router combo kit is tempting

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-Combination-Horsepower-Variable-1617EVSPK/dp/B00005RHPD/ref=lp_19471440011_1_15?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1563205989&sr=1-15

Bosch 1617 Router, $167 after discount

It's a great router, one of the best you can buy for handheld work. Regular price is $219, I think this is the cheapest I've ever seen this router.

Assuming you are starting from the ground up and need everything, it's going to be tight and you'll have to skimp in some places, but this is exactly what I would do. The grand total here is $5005.00 and that includes shipping on the big ticket items which is a few hundred dollars.

Table saw and related stuff:

[Grizzly G0715xp] (http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-Hybrid-Table-Saw-with-Riving-Knife-Polar-Bear-Series-/G0715P)

Freud Premier Fusion

[Freud SD208] (http://www.amazon.com/Freud-SD208-8-Inch-Professional-Dado/dp/B0000223O9/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395407011&sr=8-1&keywords=freud+sd208)

Gr Ripper 3d advanced (awesome on the router table too

Make your own ZCI's

Table Saw Total - $1,142

Jointer

Grizzly G0654 6" jointer (sell this on craigslist when you can upgrade to the 8". They hold their value really well and sell fast)

Jointer total $534.00

Planer

Dewalt DW734 - $399.99 most places. The 735 is nice, but not that much nicer. If I were to upgrade beyond the 734, I'd go for a 15" stationary unit.

Miter saw

Definitely go craigslist on this one. These things are a dime a dozen there. You can get a sliding 12" Dewalt/Makita/Ridgid, etc for around 250.00 to 300.00 Also pick up a decent Irwin Marples or Diablo blade

SCMS total - ~320.00

Bandsaw:

Craftsman BAS350. I own this. It's the SAME EXACT saw as the Rikon 10-321, just 200.00 cheaper. 8" resaw capacity and no stupid riser blocks to fuck up the geometry of your saw and make tensioning a nightmare.

Bandsaw Total - 620.00 with the Rikon resaw fence (bolt on) and a few timberwolf blades

Harbor Freight 2hp Dust collector, a lot of hoses, blast gates, and material to mod it to a 2 stage cyclone - 400.00

Router(s)

Bosch 1617 with both plunge and fixed bases

MLCS 15 bit set. Not the best, but better than absolutely anything else in this price range. Replace bits with Whiteside or Amanna when you have the cash.

Router and bits total 200.00

Also make your own table and fence to fill the empty space in your table saw.

Sanding

{Milwaukee 6021-21 Random Orbit Sander. Best ROS on the market until you go Festool/Ceros

Some klingspor abrasives in different grits

Shop vac bucket max and a 5gal bucket - perfect for sanders

Ridgid oscilating spindle sander. This is a tool I could definitely not live without after owning.

Sanding total - $320.00

Drill Press

Porter cable floor press

Also get the Porter Cable Forstner bit set and some decent brad points/twists)

Drill Press/bits total - ~$420.00

Clamps

Jorgensen Cabinet Master 4pc Set and various other bar clamps. The Pittsburgh ones from HF are pretty good

Clamps total ~ $250.00

Misc stuff

Woodriver bench chisels.

A vintage stanley block plane, and a jack plane

some plywood/melamine, and cheap hardwood and hardware to make a cross cut sled, router table/fence. drill press table, a workable bench/outfeed table and a grizzly woodworking end vise

Misc total - ~400.00

a set of veritas joinery saws

bosch router kit

Get a portable router like this one, and build a router sled. That'll get you almost all of the way there.

For that price, you can get the Bosch, which I think is a better deal. It's the router I have, and I've been quite happy with it. That said, a router is a router in many cases. I think the Bosch is a better deal as you get the fixed base that you can put in a router table and use the plunge base for all your handheld uses.

Personally I would spent my money on the router - many seem to like THIS ONE and it's been on my wishlist for quite a while now.

And then build your own router table which can be done very cheap from a sheet of melamine and a t-track kit from rockler which goes on sale for about $20 sometimes.

I invite you to check out MY BUILD from about a year and a half ago.
I would probably make the fence nicer now and use what I learned to make it neater - but it works great and is VERY accurate.
If you decide on that route go on Pinterest and look up router tables and get some inspiration before you start so you now what's out there and don't regret maybe not integrating a feature that you would've really liked in the after fact.

Car buffers are the ducking best. They’re better than the actual sports massage things. This one specifically https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000077CPT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fruiDbZYQRBV8

I have this Makita compressor and I love it since it is pretty easy to haul around. I would stay away from the brands that you mentioned if you are looking for something you want for the long haul. I think you'll have to choose between portability and power though.

As someone who has done a lot of similar projects at home and professionally I could make a couple of recommendations.

I recently bought this Makita compressor and I LOVE it! Recharges in 30 seconds and it's very quiet. Not a huge capacity for say roofing or framing but for moderate jobs you will never be waiting for a pressure.

Also this Harbor Freight 18g brad nailer has proven itself very versatile and reliable over the last five years or so. For $20 you can't beat it for trim work and cabinetry.

Sure! First I trace the shape in pencil onto the G10. Then I clamp the original scales down and drill all the holes with a cordless drill. I have a stand that makes the drill into a mediocre drill press. Sometimes I use that. Next I use a combination of belt sander and dremel sanding drums to rough out the profile. I check against the originals by putting the drill bits through the holes so they line up perfectly. I go back and forth, comparing and taking off some until the pencil line is gone. If it has cutouts on the bottom side, like the Adamas, I trace the profil on tape and transfer to the new scales. Then I use the dremel workstation to operate the dremel like a mini mill. The bit I used was a steel cutting tool that is cylindrical with cutting teeth on the sides and bottom. I counterbore the screw heads with a cone-shaped stone grinding bit on the dremel, or sometimes with larger drill bits using the drill, depends on the size. For the texture I pressed the scales into the edge of the sanding belt with a rolling motion. Lastly I finish sand all the edges and large openings by hand with 320 grit sandpaper. Sometimes I use a router bit to chamfer the edges and/or holes. The color looks all weird and whitish, at least with the g10 I have so I paint loctite over the whole thing wipe it off once it dries a little. I also loctite all the screws when I re-assemble. I was messy with loctite putting a knife together and figured out that it made the G10 look like it did before I cut it.

http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-220-01-Rotary-Tool-Station/dp/B00068P48O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396740382&sr=8-1&keywords=dremel+stand

For a little more, you can get this

Yea... you most certainly need a drill press. Drilling by hand is not accurate in any way, no wonder you'll break bits. Look for local workshops, hackerspaces, maybe there's a trade school nearby or something similar. A drill press is a fairly cheap tool, you can even buy them where you use a Dremel, like this.

I make tons of these holes all the time, although I use a CNC machine for it.

Actually I do, and much cheaper than a band saw! I found this guy on sale for about $50 after tax at a Home Depot about a year go.

Cons:

Not as great with curves.

And it doesn't come with the dremel/rotary tool - but I found one at a garage sale for $5 so...


There are other options it looks like (especially if you go the wish/ali express way), but I bought the Dremel brand one and it has been great.

I have actually used it for cutting harder materials than foam, and so foam is like butter - just really easy to work.

There are also tutorials on creating your own rotary cutting discs to fit your needs.
Edit: Cons

Are these really worth that much? You can get a brand new dewalt that has a rack and pinion fence and a guard for $300.
http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW745-10-Inch-Job-Site-Capacity/dp/B000HXT2N6/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

Thanks for the recommendation! This is the one you mean right? It seems the Rigid R4516 is comparable.

I believe that you may regret buying that saw. If you are in need of a smaller job site style saw I would suggest this saw. Much better fence system and this comes with a better garud/riving knife system. If you can swing it I would recommend this one.

So I read the title and thought "Would be funny if he bought a Ryobi too, like I did a few months ago." I bought a small Ryobi table saw and it was the biggest piece of shit I have ever used. It was my first woodworking tool ever, so I had no reference point. At the time I didn't realize just how bad it was. After spending hours and hours trying to align the POS (which BTW the manual lists adjustments that DO NOT EXIST) I broke down and bought this https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW745-10-Inch-Job-Site-Capacity/dp/B000HXT2N6/ref=sr_1_4?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1481036327&sr=1-4&keywords=table+saw
Literally the best saw I can imagine having, it's a completely different tool than the Ryobi.

Not cutting square is probably an inherent problem with that brand or at least with their lower tier tools.

I don't have an answer for you. Just wanted to say I had the exact same issue but on their table saw. I spent many hours trying to align it but there was literally no adjustment that could be made, I mickey moused something but it still cut like shit.

A jobsite saw from DeWalt or Bosch would provide a lot of the precision a contractor saw would provide, but it takes very little space. You just want to make sure the saw has standard miter slots. If you're using jigs, miter slots should be 3/4 wide, not 5/8 like a lot of benchtop saws. Also, there should be no tabs on the miter slots.

http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW745-10-Inch-Job-Site-Capacity/dp/B000HXT2N6

Ridgid also makes one. I often see them for $200 - $250 barely used.

http://i.imgur.com/hRyGptO.jpg

One of these is available for $175 used in good condition.

If you're getting a new one, I'd also consider this Hitachi 10" model for such occasional use (and assuming you don't want to cut huge things). I've used a friend's and I would definitely pick one up for $120 if I had more regular use for one

I have been looking at this one: http://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7424XP-6-Inch-Variable-Speed-Polisher/dp/B002654I46/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1370906261&sr=8-8&keywords=buffer

Mostly because there is one at a local pawn shop for cheap. Anyone else have one that can verify that it's good stuff? Or should I spend the extra coin and get the same setup OP bought?

In my opinion, if this is your first polisher and you're not a seasoned professional, I would not recommend it.

1. it's a rotary (not a dual action) sander/grinder/polisher. Dual action is a lot more forgiving and a lot more user friendly.
   
   
2. it's 7 inches - that is massive for a first polisher. Most people recommend a 5-6 inch polisher.
   
   
3. simoniz doesn't make the most quality products. Their price points are amazing, but the quality of the product usually reflects why their price is where it is.
   
   
4. 10' cord is good if you want to strangle yourself. Using extension cables when working with a polisher is annoying as it can come unplugged by you pulling on the cord or inadvertently stepping on it moving from point to point.
   
   Look for the Griots Garage 6in dual action polisher or the Porter Cable 7424xp 6in dual action. Both can be had for nearly as cheap. I kept the GG polisher in my Amazon waitlist because it goes on sale from time to time for $155'ish which is a steal.
   
   Griot's Garage 10813LNGCRD 6-Inch Random Orbital Polisher with 25-Feet Cord https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B009UKUURO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_DKqxzbQJ5NVFQ
   
   PORTER-CABLE 7424XP 6-Inch Variable-Speed Polisher https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B002654I46/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_6Jqxzb3VNSE56
   
   Also, check out the wikilinks in the sidebar for recommended products - http://www.reddit.com/r/AutoDetailing/wiki/index

This is what I have. It works awesome. You will need a velcro backing plate and the pads to go with it.

So for example, my setup was the porter cable polisher, the Meguiar's 105 & 205 polishes, a 6in. velcro backing plate, orange pads used with the 105, and white pads used with the 205 polish.

I started with the orange pads and the 105 to "cut" the paint. Just to get all those deeps swirls out. This will leave micro swirls, which is why you have to follow up with the 205 and white pads. You could probably skip the 105 step all together and just use either the white pads or black pads. (that is if you don't have really bad swirls) I would probably try to black pads first as they would be the safest and less abrasive.

So here's how I would do it with your car if you just want to try and get minor swirls out. I would 2 bucket wash, dry, and then clay. I would then tape off all your trim (if you plan on doing the whole car) as getting polish stuck between trim or on trim is a PITA. I would just worry about trim that is close to paint. Prep work will take time, but you won't have to slow down when polishing each panel. So once your trim is taped off it's time to get to work. Decide which panel you want to start with. Apply 3-5 drops of 205 polish to the black pad, have some water (preferably distilled) in a spray bottle and mist the pad. Go over to the panel and stick the pad against the panel to spread out the polish. You should have a couple spots where there's 3-5 drops of polish on the panel now. Bring the polisher up to speed, (I usually do a middle speed) and start working the polish into the panel going back and forth in a sweeping motion. Once you have thoroughly gone over the panel, carefully turn off your polisher without lifting off. If you lift off you will get polish EVERYWHERE. Now wipe it dry with a soft microfiber towel. I purchased brand new microfiber towels (basically the softest ones too) from The Rag Company. You want to remove ALL polish residue from the panel as soon as possible. Do not move onto the next panel without doing this. This will also give you an opportunity to check your work. Use a bright light to see if you can spot anymore swirls. You shouldn't see any.

I am by no means a professional, I have only done this once on my own personal vehicle. I believe I got pretty good results. Take my advice with a grain of salt. I just watched Youtube videos to learn what I know. I hope this helps! Don't be too worried or nervous. It's pretty easy and was pretty fun. But I won't lie, because I went over my car twice, my arms were killing me by the end of the day. I could barely finish the last panel (it was on the side) because my arms just wanted to give out. It was hard work, but so so worth it!

It should also go without saying, but be sure to either do this in a garage or in complete spot. You want the paint to be cool and you don't want the polish to dry on the panel. Also you don't want to have any dust blow on your paint or settle. Basically you want your paint as clean as possible before you go to town with your polisher.

Wow. I should get into paint correction. <$250 for all the tools and polish and waxes. As a car guy, I don't mind waxing my car every 6 months (or 4 months if you're in the frigid north or are anal). I also feel it's foolish to drop $2k-4k on these nano-quartz-bullshit schemes that a lot of car guys swear by nowadays. If you want to drop $4k on paint protection, go for it, but I can get a full window-out repaint for the same price!

Here's what I learned:

Buy the equipment:

https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7424XP-6-Inch-Variable-Speed-Polisher/dp/B002654I46

https://www.amazon.com/Dual-Action-Hook-Flexible-Backing-Plate/dp/B0008G1RDK

https://www.costco.com/Kirkland-Signature-Microfiber-Towel-Case%2C-324-count.product.100341124.html

https://www.amazon.com/Collinite-Liquid-Insulator-Wax-845/dp/B000JK2D06

http://www.autogeek.net/lake-country-beveled-pad-kit.html (MIN: 2 orange, 2 white, 1 black, 1 blue -- I prefer doubling this order; Autogeek almost always has 10-25% off coupons on their mailing list)

You will also need an extension wire with the appropriate gauge (too thin/cheap cables might cause you to burn your Porter Cable motor!)


Buy the compounds (start with UC; if swirls aren't getting cut, move up to 50%/50% UC and 105 on the pads; finish with 205 regardless):

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound-15-2/dp/B001O7PNNM (medium aggressive)

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Ultra-Cut-Compound/dp/B003LMGDHI (most aggressive)

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Finishing-Polish/dp/B001O7PNXC

Wash your car with this, and the two-bucket method:

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G7164-Class-Shampoo-Conditioner/dp/B0009IQXFO

https://www.amazon.com/Zwipes-Chenille-Microfiber-Premium-Scratch-Free/dp/B002J7KCOG

Claybar the car:

https://www.amazon.com/YGDZ-Quality-Detailing-Claybar-Shipping/dp/B01MF4BVVS

It took me about 5-6 relaxed hours on a Sunday with a few beers for the full correction. Now I simply top up the wax every few months (and that only takes 30 min).

The thing is, once you do the full correction and get rid of all your swirls and scuffs and whatever clearcoat damage (wash + claybar + M105/UC + M205 + wax), then you don't have to do the FULL correction ever again.

Ever again meaning, if you wash the car properly thereafter with the two-bucket method. You'll simply need to top up the wax once it stops beading -- the wax will protect the clearcoat from damage and swirls.

My wax lasted 6+ months being daily driven in the California sun with three coats of Collinite 845 -- I assume if yours will see more snow and ice and rain, perhaps it'll only last 3-4 months. But since a bottle costs <$20 and you'll get at least 36+ layers out of it, I always recommend this versus the "nano coatings" that people are shelling out $2-4k for.

Here's the Collinite fanboy thread:

https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/40243-collinite-845-definitive-how-guide-legendary-wax.html

Any other questions, feel free to ask. Good luck!

I am not quite ready to start polishing... but looks like getting 'em for $100 would save about $17-20. (Amazon)

How difficult is it to return an item or exchange or deal with Customer Service if you take part in a group buy?

You could just ask one of the neighbors that has one to borrow their dremel.

Seriously though, they aren't that expensive.

Dremel is just a brand name that became so common that it's synonymous with the generic term "rotary tool." If someone says "Dremel" they may or may not actually mean a Dremel brand rotary tool. Like Q-tips or Frisbees or Zeppelins.

Dremel makes very good tools, but my rotary tool is a Black & Decker. The B&D is ridiculously over-powered and can be used as a drill and even a jigsaw at need, but it's also heavy and cumbersome. Some people even use dog nail grinders if they don't need a lot of power, say if you're only cutting and filing foam.

For raw materials, go dumpster diving and scavenge for E-Waste. You might also want to buy lots of LED lights in many different form factors. Invest in a soldering iron kit and learn how to solder. Invest in a Dremel - the most useful and versatile power tool you can own for DIY projects. Buy lots of spray paint in the "metallic" colors and get yourself a cool looking respirator while you're at it.

It will be the best 80 bucks you ever spend. They are seriously great. I had a Craftsman one but got a Dremmel 4000 for Christmas. The Dremmel is so much better in terms of quality.

So I've always liked to go barefoot when possible, but a few years ago I decided to give 'barefoot style' a serious try, inspired partially by Cody Lundin.

So one of the things I noticed was that I'd build up some pretty impressive callous on parts of my feet which is good because it makes walking on rough terrain like driveway gravel easier to handle but eventually those callouses get too thick and begin to crack and then that causes trouble.

The solution I found was to sand the callouses down once or twice a month. Tried a variety of methods and the best method I found was to use a high speed rotary tool with a sanding attachment, like a Dremel.

Works well enough that once while visiting my mother, she saw me using it and gave it a try then went and bought her own so she can give herself and her husband pedicures every so often.

Also, at least once a week or after runs you should boil a cup of water, add a dash of soap and then use a heavy terrycloth washcloth to really scrub your feet, make sure to exfoliate any dead skin.

Also take off your socks as often as you can, so your feet don't stay sweaty/wet.

Doing those things may clear up your issues, it works for me.

You don't really need an angle grinder to cut a cable lock, I would buy a cheap rotary tool like this: https://www.amazon.com/WEN-2305-Rotary-Tool-Shaft/dp/B003BYRFH8

You'd be amazed how many things that will come in handy for once you have it. (Wear safety glasses and cut it outside)

Or you could buy a hacksaw with a metal cutting blade (about $10). Will take about 10 minutes and some elbow grease to cut through it.

Or carry it to a bike shop and ask them nicely to do it for you (bring a receipt or some kind of proof of ownership).

I bought a cheap soldering kit from Amazon for $17 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XZ31W3M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_oedEzb5K4TWS4
Also a Dremel tool for sanding surfaces and cutting plastic https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BYRFH8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_NfdEzbEYCCFER

Look at the WEN kit on amazon. I got one last week for $20 and it came with the snake attachment to let you use it like a pen in your hand. Takes the same tools as a Dremel and even has speed control.
https://www.amazon.com/WEN-2305-Rotary-Tool-Shaft/dp/B003BYRFH8

What are peoples oppinions on knife sharpeners? I was about to buy the work sharp knife sharpener but changed my mind when I saw this video by Adam Ragusea

Basic freedom kit:

https://www.80percentarms.com/80-ar-15-easy-jig-gen-1/

https://www.80percentarms.com/gen-1-easy-jig-tool-kit/

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWP611PK-Torque-Variable-Compact/dp/B0049ZFUK2/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_469_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=TJ0F7J784GV5Y2QAE3PW

https://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/drills-drivers/drill-presses/8-in-5-speed-bench-drill-press-60238.html

https://www.righttobear.com/cerro-forge-raw-80-percent-lower-receiver-p/80raw-1.htm

You don't actually need a drill press, but I like to have one (for P80s as well). There are higher end jigs, routers, and drill presses (Easy Jig gen 2, 5d Tactical) but these are good enough to get you going. They are what I use (minus that drill press, I have a brand name one) and they work well repeatedly.

I've been using this one for about a year. It's a good, reliable drill.

$50 Drill Attack


https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-LDX120C-Lithium-Driver/dp/B005NNF0YU?ref_=Oct_BSellerC_552794_1&pf_rd_p=947d67c1-8c99-58e8-9d82-41a275d7b383&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-6&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_i=552794&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=BWAFDYPPE1GXHHXGC5D1&pf_rd_r=BWAFDYPPE1GXHHXGC5D1&pf_rd_p=947d67c1-8c99-58e8-9d82-41a275d7b383

At 2-20 cabinets I assume these are private facilities and not Co-Location facilities.

It all boils down to well-thought out standards that align with your needs & requirements.

Plenty of good recommendations in the thread already, but I'll chime in with some of my favorites.

1. Equipment Cabinets as tall, wide and deep as possible.
   

• Floor space is finite. You can't (easily) make the equipment room bigger. So use all of the vertical space that is available to you.
  
• Devices & equipment keeps squeezing more capabilities into the same 1U and 2U form factors, often at the expense of additional equipment depth.
  
• 900 and 1000mm deep cabinets are just not cutting it anymore. Standardize on 1200mm depth, or you'll regret it soon.
  
• I like this PDF from APC here as it provides a clear illustration of the problems encountered when you are forced to install a deep device in a shallow cabinet. Ignore the concept that maybe you don't use Cisco UCS servers. Someday somebody is going to buy a device as deep as that UCS enclosure and want to mount it in one of your cabinets.
  

2. Air Flow, Air Flow, AIR FLOW !!!
   

• Hot Aisles and Cold Aisles.
  
• Where will the hot air go?
  
• Where is the cold air coming from?
  
• If this is a small, 6 cabinet environment, having a big assed 36" industrial fan in the room for just-in-case is a brilliant investment.
  

3. I don't want 110V power in the server environment. Everything in the cabinets is 220V.
   

• We deliver 2 or 4 x L6-30R connections to each cabinet.
  
• My initial response to a request for 110V power in a cabinet will be very negative, bordering on hostile.
  
• Anything that is 110V-only isn't data center grade. Go find a better product and come back with a new request.
  
• Yes, I will eventually cave in and meet the needs of the business.
  

4. Yes, I fully agree with having a permanent stash of consumables in the facility (if this is a private facility).
   

• 1" or 3/4" velcro by the roll.
  
• 12" medium-duty zip-ties.
  
• Label Printer and a cable labeling solution.
  
• Flashlight, multi-bit screwdriver, Cage Nut tool. In a larger facility I want an electric screwdriver, but small & light not big and powerful Like This, NOT Like This
  
• Patch cables, Fiber jumpers, SFP/SFP+ optics
  
• I don't want a Co-Lo provider to provide these things for free. Such a service will be abused and the costs of that abuse will be passed forward to us.
  
• I love seeing a credit-card enabled vending machine outside of the data center floor with these things in it. I'll put a $10 15' CAT6 patch cord on my AmEx in a heartbeat if it saves me from having to sign out of the facility and crawl into my car because I'm one cable short.
  
  
  ...
  
  
  I had more thoughts, but I've lost them...
  
  

I bought this $16 dremel on amazon, then used blue painters tape to mask off the line I wanted to cut (took me a few tries to get the angle right). I cut the plastic with a cutoff wheel, sanded it with the sanding wheel, then finished it up by hand with some fine grit sandpaper.

Upgrade to an 18v, 20v, or a corded drill. I use 12v makita and bosch drills all day at work and they are pitifully weak on purpose because we hang doors on solid cherry and maple framed cabinets. I also hang doors on solid oak and hickory framed cabinets and those 12v drills sometimes barely have the juice to drive a screw in to those even with pre-drilled holes.

Conversely, if you don't set your chuck appropriately with a 20v drill, you'll either strip your screw hole clean out in wood or hurt your wrist pretty bad when the drill kicks out in metal.

This is the exact model I own and it is a beast. I've had it for about 5-6 years now and love it.

Brushless gets you more run time, it's basically more fuel efficient. Just using around the house, you probably don't need brushless. The 790 also comes with 2.0 amp hour batteries (more capacity than the 1.5 Amp Hour 780 batteries).

There is also a lower price point drill (DCD771C2) that is brushed and comes with 1.3 amp hour batteries if you are looking to save money. it typically is on sale on black friday around $99. It's a little larger than the 780 and 790 and not as ergonomic http://www.amazon.com/Dewalt-DCD771C2-Cordless-Lithium-Ion-Compact/dp/B00ET5VMTU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1413911751&sr=8-2&keywords=DCD780c2

If you have access to a drill press, and patience, you should be GTG. I've also seen tabletop stands for a power drill that give you the vertical axis control of a drill press without the need to buy a big-ass tool.

e.g.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01FZB3HQC/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1521483655&sr=8-8&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=portable+drill+press&dpPl=1&dpID=41tNr6DyFiL&ref=plSrch#


Edit: This a little bit more, but probably takes up a lot more space in an apartment, unless you have a spare room for an office/workshop/den/bar/etc... room that I wish I had.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HQONFVE/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1521483655&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=portable+drill+press

Hey! So I am in the exact situation with a furnace, water heater, washer and dryer in the same room as my basement shop.i thought about sectioning off but it would be too much of a pain and not practical. I use a shop vac and dust deputy with every tool I can. I use the belt sander outside. And I've found it necessary to have a ceiling mounted air filtration system. I have [this one.](WEN 3410 3-Speed Remote-Controlled Air Filtration System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LPD9BDI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wL9LybJ2PNAA8) it works well and you can find it for around $100 if you look around.

Don't worry too much about the furnace. It won't start a fire or anything. I would highly recommend changing your furnace filter or at least checking it every 30 days. Run your air filter and the furnace won't get as dusty. I also recommend blowing the dust out of the furnace with air every year or so to avoid buildup. Good luck.

I don't think a sheet sander would be any better. The random orbital could work if you have a decent shop vac or dust extractor set up. Another option would be to set up either a downdraft table or put an air filter right next to where you are working. These are all very loud options for working inside a house or apartment.

If I was working indoors I would look into using card scrapers and a smoothing plane as much as possible, with just a bit of hand sanding around any corners you miss.

Here is the desktop version of your link

What about one of these? It will at least move the air and be a closed system.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LPD9BDI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480352658&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=wen+shop+filter&dpPl=1&dpID=51yk6KdhUkL&ref=plSrch

Not bad, I wonder how it compares to this drill: http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DC970K-2-18-Volt-Drill-Driver/dp/B002RLR0EY/

I guess you get an extra box, but it seems like the dewalt gets better reviews, is 1/2" instead of 3/8", and is nearly the same price.

Aaalright so he's a simple man. I love that. He likes his tools and his gear to be life lasting and that's something I totally agree with.

A strong ass hatchet would be something manly that he might like.

I know this is out of your price range but a good electric Drill saves you so much trouble when you love fixing things around the house.

He has a pocket knife? Why not a multi-tool. I love these things. Super useful. Or a Swiss army knife.

I would love to have any the above mentioned items as gifts so yeah.

Hope you will find the perfect one thou. Happy hunting :D

You're misunderstanding me. The 18v sold in stores in America is completely different than the 20v sold here. American 18v versus American 20v


One is li-ion, the other is nicad. Huge weight difference.

On Amazon the Wen 2305 and up have pretty good reviews. Same with the Black And Decker one you suggested.

WEN 2305 Rotary Tool Kit with Flex Shaft https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BYRFH8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_U240xb88A6B97

Are the collets universal?

Thanks for the help.

Thanks! Just keep the damn thing moving! When a rotating bit sits in one place to long it will create happy little accidents.

edit: that particular tool is on amazon.

yea I have to agree with you there

Heres a great cheap Rotary Tool- https://www.amazon.com/WEN-2307-Variable-100-Piece-Accessories/dp/B003BYRFH8?th=1&psc=1

Home Depot is apparently going to have it in stores soon.

moar power!!! https://www.amazon.com/WEN-2305-Rotary-Tool-Shaft/dp/B003BYRFH8/ref=sr_1_4?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1481658063&sr=1-4&keywords=dremel

Just so you know I ordered this dremel for $20 on Amazon and it works great. Time is money!! Halloween approacheth! https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003BYRFH8?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Hello /r/knifeclub !

TL;DR: I got given a knife and it doesn't want to hold an edge, can anyone identify it / the steel. Is it worth keeping and re-profiling or is it trash?

I have googled and I can't find any information on this knife. It was given to me by my other half's mother. I took it to the sharpener and put a nice 18° per side edge on it and within less than a week it was blunted. My ceramic rod did nothing; I grabbed my loupe and looked at the edge and it looks like a god damn mountain range.

I'm not hard on my knives, my regular 8" chefs knife is the excellent but famously soft steeled Victorinox Fibrox and that lasts me a good 2 months between needing maintanace.

I have since taken it to the Worksharp because I didn't want to waste my time re-working it without gathering more information first (new edge picture is the last of the 4, you can see the new edge the Worksharp put on it). It's sharp again for now but I have no idea if it'll last.

Can anyone tell me anything about this knife? Do I need to put a steeper edge on it? the blade is stamped "Japan", I had my fingers crossed that maybe it would be a solid VG-10 blade but that doesn't seem to be the case. I'm happy to sit down and take the time to work the edge into something robust if it's worth it.

Help me /r/knifeclub, you're my only hope.

Worksharp

Maybe but it would be one of the least efficient ways. The motor isn't as strong as something like this, the belts are much smaller so wear out quicker and don't have the different grades available.

Sure, probably something like the WorkSharp System would be best, as it doesn't require to hold the knife steadily (just need to press it to one side of the lid and pull through) and will give you good and consistent result every time.

Because of it's structure - it puts a convex edge on the blade, which isn't necessarily bad, as it will lose the hair shaving sharpness quicker than a standard V edge, but will maintain a working edge for a long time afterwards and will be easy to touch up and strop.

Just get the regular Worksharp https://www.amazon.com/Work-Sharp-Knife-Tool-Sharpener/dp/B003IT5F14/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1525752433&sr=8-3&keywords=work+sharp

ok, here you go:

• Metal Comb
  
• Pin Brush
  
• Detangler
  
• Clippers - I use these but Wahl is also really good
  
• Different Blades - if you get the Andis Clipper
  
• Metal comb attachments - get these and not the cheap plastic ones
  
• Grooming Table - This is optional but if you have a wiggly pup like I do, they're helpful. If you get this you should also get these
  
• Dremel for nails
  
  Now keep in mind that I plan on doing 95% of the grooming for the rest of my pups life. Since he's a standard poodle, a full groom would cost me anywhere from $75 to $120 (every 4 to 6 weeks) due to his size. So, for me, investing in all of the above will save me a lot of money in the long run.
  
  *Edit - If you go this route and get your own clippers - make sure you get some blade cleaner/oil, I use this

I just use a Dremel Mini Mite though you might need to step up to the next more powerful one for a big dog.

I don't use clippers at all. Too nervous about cutting the quick and generally my dogs have done better with a dremel. I mean they still don't like it but once they get used to it they don't try to get away as much. The only catch is to be careful to not dremel too much as it will get hot and can burn the quick. But on high speed I can take off 2-3 weeks worth of growth in a few seconds (depends on the dog and how hard/large their nails are). Plus it leaves things nice and rounded so it's not as rough on floors/skin.

http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-7300-N-MiniMite-4-8-Volt-Two-Speed/dp/B003TU0XFU/ref=sr_1_5?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1368719810&sr=1-5

This will technically get the job done, but, like I said, it might take significantly longer without the diamond bit.

This is the one I got: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TU0XFU

It was so inexpensive, I figured why not.

I believe it is this one

DEWALT DWP611PK 1.25 HP Max Torque Variable Speed Compact Router Combo Kit with LED's https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049ZFUK2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_P3SDzb09F30DW

I think open builds part store also sells it but my phone is being a pain and won't load.

I use my smallest router on a plunge base 100% of the time. It is very useful on many scenarios. Unlike what the other guy said about dewalt being construction tools, I disagree completely. Dewalt tools have served my needs more than adequately. With one exception: the 618 router simply should not be mounted on a router table or that thing's variable speed mechanism will get destroyed by the sawdust. I think makita makes excellent tools as well.

In your case, please do yourself a favor and get the 611 with plunge base. I suspect the makita version is perfectly capable as well.

if you're willing to buy new, i suggest going smaller for your first router: https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWP611PK-Torque-Variable-Compact/dp/B0049ZFUK2

I have a full size Bosch router that has a lot more power but I like my little router much more. It's great for doing freehand stuff (routing out butterflies, small mortises, etc) and should be able to handle any edge routing you want to do.

I haven't used it, but the Drill/Driver alone (not the 3 piece kit) is $59.97 at Amazon and has 4.5 Stars on 243 Reviews, so it seems to be a well respected tool. I wouldn't think it's good for commercial use, but certainly a good tool for around the house.

Corded is fine, but most corded drills are not drill/drivers and don't have a clutch. If you go corded, I'd go for one with a clutch such as this from Ryobi. A standard corded drill would allow you to overtorque your bolts very, very easily and you could end up bending or breaking the furniture.

My two cents, don't get the Hitachi, get a cheap corded/cordless with a standard chuck (not a hex chuck) and a clutch. A cheap black and decker is half the price and will let you use standard drill bits in the future. Cut the 90 degree angle off the hex key and you can just use that as your bit in a standard chuck. Keep the clutch just low enough to tighten the bolts.

This is the one I own. Its great for modding cases. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A8DXKXS/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_SjfTub0RWAMHX

FWIW - I bought this rotary tool from amazon when I put together my STC-1000 project box and it worked really well. It doesn't seem too expensive for what it is, nor does it seem like a POS (but what do I know about tools?).

Rotary tools start at $20 on amazon.

http://amzn.com/B00A8DXKXS

One thing on the DeWalt products: There's a durability gap between their low end home owner type tool and their professional models. They cheaped out in the last several years on their production but the brushless sets still, as far as I've heard, hold up really well.

Example: This drill is likely to die on you after only moderate use. This drill will last much longer for $40 more.

Personally I run mostly Dewalt 20v tools. Was sold a rigid miter saw by a Milwaukee salesman (he was off duty) and he swore by it. I've loved it and have had 0 problems, plus they run a lifetime warranty on their products. Milwaukee is IMO at the top right now but you also pay for it.

I have had virtually that same 18v Dewalt drill for almost 12 years and it has never failed me. I actually recently upgraded to 20v and gave my old drill/driver to my wife.

I also work for a company that provides us with 18v Lithium ion Milwaukee drills and I can tell you that we put those things through the ringer each and every day and they are every bit as reliable.

Your biggest reason for the price difference in your two options is that the Milwaukee is a lithium ion kit and they have much much more power. If you are looking for the dewalt counterpart this is closer to its level. If you are serious about drilling through concrete, I would highly suggest getting a hammer drill.

Another thing you might want to consider is buying your drill from a dealer instead of online. Realistically any of the top brands you look at should hold up very well to moderate use, but if you go through a dealer it could make any warranty issues easier.

Hope this was somewhat coherent/helpful. Happy drilling and be sure to come back and share your projects!

WEN 8 Inch Drill Press

It's pretty good for the price. I will likely upgrade at some point but for now it's just right. I use it all of the time now that I have one.

I have this little guy from Wen. IT works fine for wood and light metal use, but it's nothing heavy duty, you do need to be cognizant of it's limitations. It's also not variable or have a worklight, though I think the latter is easy enough to set up. I don't remember what I paid for it, but it wasn't the $90 currently listed on Amazon. Edit - just looked it up, bought it for $70.

Actually not that much. I probably spent around $20-25 in lumber for all four shelves (I just got some cheap pine at Lowe's). Wood glue and paint was another few bucks.

The expense really comes with the tools. I didn't have a drill press, so I bought a relatively cheap one on Amazon ($75), which actually worked amazingly well (https://smile.amazon.com/WEN-4208-5-Speed-Drill-Press/dp/B00HQONFVE/ref=sr_1_4?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1521416744&sr=1-4&keywords=drill+press). A 2" drill bit will also run you about $20. Fortunately, I already had a sander and some sandpaper laying around.

So, short answer: One shelf will probably cost you around $10-15 in materials. However, there's a lot of additional costs if you need more tools. Also took quite a bit of time marking and drilling all of the holes. I put the design in the Imgur album, so feel free to make your own if you so desire!

Yeah, you could look in to smaller bench top models of table saws and jointers, lunchbox planers, etc.
Ive seen people create some pretty cool work areas out of small spaces.
The downside is with smaller tools comes less surface to reference your workpiece during the cut, less power and dust collection...
These are some smaller "budget" tools that I've heard good things about:

Benchtop "Lunchbox" Thickness Planer
Benchtop Jointer
Benchtop table saw
Benchtop Drill Press

Can you turn down the pressure from the compressor? Also look into air cleaner used by woodworkers. You can get one made by Wen for $100 or so. Helps with dust and bigger particles.

WEN 3410 3-Speed Remote-Controlled Air Filtration System (300/350/400 CFM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LPD9BDI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Nb3KAbVEAG6SM

I had something like this in my shop to vacuum the air.

https://www.amazon.ca/WEN-3410-3-Speed-Remote-Controlled-Filtration/dp/B00LPD9BDI/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=shop+air+filter&qid=1558616322&s=gateway&sr=8-2

Dust Containment, Dust Collection, Dust Filtration.

First, go to any big box store (I think even walmart may have it) and get a roll of sheet plastic. Try to get at least 6mil thickness. Attach this to the bottoms of the joists and subfloor. Be sure to go up in between the joists to seal that off too. Staples work really well, especially if you reinforce the edge of the plastic with a piece of duct tape on both sides. Wherever your door is going to be, overlap to pieces by about 12-18" to create a usable door flap.

Second, (if you don't already have one) get some sort of dust collection. A simple shop vac will do, though I highly recommend that you get a large one with a 2 1/2" hose as well as some sort of dust separator or you will be buying vacuum bags and filters like crazy.

Finally, get the Wen 3410 for $125. It has plenty of air movement and at full speed will cycle the air in a 20x20 room something like 7 times per hour I think. It's also quiet. The unit is identical to the Rikon and a couple other units at a much cheaper price.

The first two are the most important, but the last will greatly reduce the amount of dust that stays in the air, and more importantly, your lungs. A good respirator would also be a good investment as well. For less than $20, it's a good investment. I like the 3M 650x Quick Latch Respirator. I use one of these along with the P100 filters. If you have to go cheap on the last one, get a $20 box fan and a 20x20 furnace filter. That works decently too.

edit: I too work in my basement. I did the above and do not have problems with dust anywhere in the house, even right outside of my shop.

Looks exactly what I need.

I think I am going to get an air cleaner as well if I have the budget left.
http://www.amazon.com/WEN-3410-3-Speed-Remote-Controlled-Filtration/dp/B00LPD9BDI/ref=zg_bs_553020_1

The lid

[The filter] (https://www.amazon.com/WEN-3410-3-Speed-Remote-Controlled-Filtration/dp/B00LPD9BDI)

The bag

Edit: This is the single stage collector I bought

I also have a basement workshop but for sanding/staining/finishing I just do it outside. I have a 2HP Harbor Freight dust collector with 1 micron bag, and I have one of those $140 Wen 3-speed air purifiers which runs most of the time (and which is a purchase I highly recommend!), but the basement only really sees typical sawdust from miter saw, table saw etc. I'd love to be able to do sanding down in the basement but the dust it produces is just way too fine to risk it circulating around indoors.

Edit: link to the air purifier I referred to. Running this thing for a few hours each evening has made such a difference to the air quality down there

I still play with toys. Different toys, though. More expensive, heavier, higher age rating.

Bought this a few days ago:

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-1617EVSPK-4-Horsepower-Variable-Collets/dp/B00005RHPD

Looking at this one on Amazon - http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-1617EVSPK-4-Horsepower-Variable-Collets/dp/B00005RHPD/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1463398215&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=router+combo.

I had no idea they were quite this pricy for a good one. My budget doesn't really have $200 in it right now. I may have to get this project to the point where it's done except the routing and then re-evaluate where I am financially.

Also picked up the Bosch 1617EVSPK kit and have been very happy with it. Only used the fixed base mounted to a router table so far, and has performed nicely. As me again in a week and I will let you know how the plunger base performed.

In woodworking I stay away/give away anything craftsman before it hurts you or ruins your project.

A router is very versatile. This is a tool you don't want to cheat yourself. You will want one that can plunge as well.

There is no need to put money into a router table if you don't have money. I built mine out of mdf, and when I got money spent some on a better top.

Bosch is typically my go to brand. I went with them here as well. And have been very happy. Power is up to you. I went mid range and it has been just fine. A little Bulky for fine stuff (if handheld) but can tackle the bigger projects. this is the one I have and would recommend.

http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-1617EVSPK-4-Horsepower-Variable-Collets/dp/B00005RHPD

Edit: as much as I hate Dewalt s terrible, terrible customer service if you found theirs for a good deal I have used it as well and is good.

A bit over $150 (currently 189 less 25 for the holiday promotion), but if he needs a good router I've loved this set. Tons of things that you can use a router for in the shop and this one has lots of accessories that cheaper ones lack like edge guides and dust collection.

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-1617EVSPK-4-Horsepower-Variable-Collets/dp/B00005RHPD

In that case, you really should look at either the Rigid 4512 or the Delta 36-725 (either runs $500-600 at HD or lowes). That $200 kobalt saw is not going to serve you very well. I wrote up https://www.reddit.com/r/woodworking/comments/3j4zl9/intro_to_tablesaws/ to help out folks looking for a table saw. Craigslist can take some time- even if there's nothing now, you may well be able to find a deal if you can wait a while. Set up an automated search that emails you when it finds new matches.

As far as a router goes, I'd recommend http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-1617EVSPK-4-Horsepower-Variable-Collets/dp/B00005RHPD over the one you linked, for very similar money.

So full price, the Craftsman is roughly equivalent to this Bosch. How do these two actually stack up and is the Bosch worth the premium over the Craftsman even at the sale price?

EDIT: Just noticed the lack of a built-in dust collection system on the Bosch. Looks like this kit would solve that issue for another $40.

Also, any recommendation on good value bits?

My 618 has been great, and the D-handle option makes it even more useful. The alternative is the Bosch 1617EVSPK, which is also well regarded.

While in school, I made this router table. Love it. I had a cabinet I had already made in class and jsut made the top, fence, and other parts for it. Took the top drawer out of the cabinet and put in a tip-out tray for the collet wrenches.

I use this dewalt router on it.

I have the Dewalt DW618 and I really like it.

http://smile.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW618PK-12-AMP-Fixed-Base-Variable-Speed/dp/B00006JKXE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452215648&sr=8-1&keywords=dewalt+618

I also recently got the 1 1/4 HP Dewalt DWP611, and I am really surprised by how powerful it is for its size.

http://smile.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWP611-Torque-Variable-Compact/dp/B0048EFUV8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452215796&sr=8-1&keywords=dewalt+611

If you live close to the border, you may want to order the US price (U$D189 = CA$194) and save yourself almost $50

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00006JKXE/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1503877361&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=dewalt+router+618&dpPl=1&dpID=41l029-sITL&ref=plSrch


Happy with my dewalt here.

Is there any difference between a really nice polisher (I can't find one as an example) and a polisher like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000077CPT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_90CfzbTAG54TC

If you want a sports massager, the cheapest best option is probably a Black & Decker car buffer. https://www.amazon.com/DECKER-WP900-6-Inch-Random-Polisher/dp/B000077CPT/ They work just as well as the massagers and are super cheap.

You want to use a cutting compound, then a polisher, then a wax and polisher mix, then a wax. It can be done by hand but it'll be tedious work, a polisher is recommended. you can get a 6 inch polisher on Amazon for cheap

[Cutting compound] (https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Ultra-Cut-Compound/dp/B001O7PNW8/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2X258V2JG0MWL&keywords=cutting+compound&qid=1570408658&sprefix=cutting+compound%2Caps%2C213&sr=8-3)

[Polisher compound] (https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Clear-Coat-Polishing-Compound/dp/B006FUT154/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2GPHAWV9X86T2&keywords=polishing+compound&qid=1570408671&sprefix=polish%2Caps%2C203&sr=8-5)

[Wax] (https://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Wax-Polishing-Compound-Scratch/dp/B0009JKGJ2/ref=sr_1_7?crid=1QLIV2CDVRQM8&keywords=wax+compound+for+cars&qid=1570408763&sprefix=wax+compo%2Caps%2C190&sr=8-7)

[Orbital Polisher] (https://www.amazon.com/DECKER-WP900-6-Inch-Random-Polisher/dp/B000077CPT/ref=sr_1_5?crid=PM4UWG6DWJ5C&keywords=polisher+machine+for+car&qid=1570408680&sprefix=polisher%2Caps%2C196&sr=8-5)

I also recommend you completely clean the spot with a clay bar as well so you don't scratch the paint more with crud that's already imbedded in the paint.

[Clay bar] (https://www.amazon.com/IPELY-Detailing-Magic-Cleaner-Clean/dp/B0753FSQN6?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_5)

Good luck!

I assume you already have lacrosse balls, but this is a really good tool too, using a car polisher for myofascial release or stripping.

https://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-WP900-6-Inch-Polisher/dp/B000077CPT/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1502402094&sr=1-2&keywords=orbital+polisher

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5ictPToU9M

The closest thing you can get to that's meant to use on humans is a percussor, which is >$300. Battery lasts for a couple hundred hours

All my bodywork practitioners got them after I showed them mine.

This acupressure mat is good too, you can wrap your arms in it or dig your hands into it: http://www.heavenlymats.com/

Those are my favorites. I do a bit of thai massage for fun.

30$ on amazon

This is the one I use. So, I guess since it "orbits" instead of spins, that may help in the whole "preventing from cheese grating your skin" department.

I would try out an orbiter waxer first, they are a lot cheaper - https://www.amazon.com/DECKER-WP900-6-Inch-Random-Polisher/dp/B000077CPT

Invest in an aircompressor, idk how anyone survives without one:

https://www.amazon.com/Makita-MAC700-Big-Bore-Compressor/dp/B0001Q2VK0/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1538062920&sr=8-4&keywords=makita+air+compressor

I use mine in my woodshop. The small "pancake" porter cable type compressors are pretty awful (I went through two in 3 years, they are essentially unserviceable) and LOUD.

I then bought this Makita

It is AWESOME. Runs great, and AMAZINGLY QUIET, Amazon is selling it for about $200.

EDIT: Did I mention that it's quiet? In my garage I can talk on the phone while it pumps.

If I was going to buy another compressor I'd probably get a Makita.

http://www.amazon.com/Makita-MAC700-Big-Bore-Compressor/dp/B0001Q2VK0/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1374779714&sr=1-1&keywords=makita+compressor

http://www.amazon.com/Makita-MAC2400-Big-Bore-Compressor/dp/B0001Q2VPK/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1374779762&sr=1-2&keywords=makita+compressor

http://www.amazon.com/Makita-MAC5200-Big-Bore-Compressor/dp/B0001Q2VPU/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1374779762&sr=1-3&keywords=makita+compressor

As it stands they have great CFM flow and are relatively overbuilt.

I looked at way to many of these when trying to find a reasonable sized compressor that could handle light duty paint spraying. I ended up getting a very old 220v craftsmen off craigslist, and a small newer craftsmen for a deal from kmart.

If I didn't need to spray anything and valued portability, this seemed like the best available: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0001Q2VK0

The small craftsmen looked pretty similar but the makita seems to have a better motor, though the craftsmen was oil lubed as well. This is the craftsmen, but I think I only paid $60 or so for it: http://m.kmart.com/index-g.html#/productdetails/010W005319735001P?sid=

Another option if you can find one cheap is the smaller roll around Dewalt 200psi one. http://www.factoryauthorizedoutlet.com/dewalt-heavy-duty-4-5-gallon-200-psi-heavy-duty-hand-carry-air-compressor-w-wheels

I have both of these on my to-print list.

/u/CaptainPain mentioned a drill press one, but honestly for that I really like the official Dremel one.

It is the workstation (http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-220-01-Rotary-Tool-Station/dp/B00068P48O). Dremel is magic for lots of things in home.

Yeah for circuit boards, a dremel drill press would probably be great.

http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-220-01-Rotary-Tool-Station/dp/B00068P48O

That ridgid or the delta for ~$600 are the best hobbyist woodworker level saws on the market currently. If you intend to do a decent amount of weekend warrior woodworking then they would be good investments.

If you are just looking for the occasional DIY project and want to save some more money, this dewalt jobsite saw is half the cost and works great. Being a jobsite saw it is much smaller so think about the types of projects you want to do. But I have built tables, coffee tables, and many cutting boards on mine.

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW745-10-Inch-Job-Site-Capacity/

​

Edit: Also there is a common misconception about 220v saws. Rewiring to 220 does not provide any more power, it just takes up less space on the circuit while providing the same amount of power. So if you have a 15 amp 110v saw on a 20 amp circuit you aren't missing out on any power, you just can't run much of anything else on that circuit at the same time.

You can get a really nice contractor table saw for around $500. I have this one and I love it. Or a radial arm saw like this. There a a bunch of good brands out there. Just make sure you get a 12 inch blade.

I got the DeWalt DW745 from cragslist, new in box for $250 and I probably would've paid the $400 for it now that I've owned and used it for a while. Everything was nice and square right out of the box too, which saved some time!

I highly recommend the Hitachi on amazon, it gets great reviews and its an amazing compound miter saw for the price.
http://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-C10FCE2-10-Inch-Compound-Miter/dp/B000V5Z6RG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395172421&sr=8-1&keywords=Hitachi+miter+saw

That "DA" is not something I would use.

Check out one of these DA Polishers:

Harbor Freight DA

Griots Garage DA

Porter Cable DA

Meguiars DA

http://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7424XP-6-Inch-Variable-Speed-Polisher/dp/B002654I46
I would get this porter cable or if you are looking for a cheaper approach maybe the Harbor Freight Dual Action.

If you want that particular DA I would buy it off amazon its 117.99 with free shipping (click add to cart to see the price)

http://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7424XP-6-Inch-Variable-Speed-Polisher/dp/B002654I46/ref=lh_ni_t?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

then, since you're kinda new to machine finishing I would go with a microfiber pad and something less aggressive like megs microfiber formula

http://www.detailersdomain.com/Meguiars-DA-Microfiber-Compound-D300-16-oz_p_552.html

You can totally DIY paint correct with a dual action polisher.

Here’s a straightforward shopping list and guide. This will knock out most if not all of your swirl marks.

Shopping List:

Machine Polisher - PORTER-CABLE Variable Speed Polisher, 6-Inch (7424XP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002654I46/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_l7SADbKPP1Q6Q

Backing Pad - Astro 4607 5" PU Velcro Backing Pad https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CH3Z8W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_T7SADbZ187WK1

Bugging Pads - Chemical Guys HEX_3KIT_5 5.5" Buffing Pad Sampler Kit (4 Items), 16. Fluid_Ounces, 4 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J588UNG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_d9SADb8WF470V

Compound - Meguiar's G17220 Ultimate Compound, 20 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W5HCZ9M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_M9SADb0ADEMZJ

Finishing Polish - Meguiar's M20532 Mirror Glaze Ultra Finishing Polish, 32 Fluid Ounces, 1 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001O7PNXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_i-SADbWXADMQT

Wax - Your preference

Here’s the guide:

1 – Tool Prep

Set aside the dual-action polisher, backing pad, and foam pads. Remove the included backing plate that’s already attached to the Porter Cable polisher, use the included wrench. Re-attached using the Astro pad, secure tightly.

2 – Wash

Wash your car by hand, preferably using the two-bucket method. Afterward, move the car into your garage or shaded area. You’ll want to be out of direct sunlight, keeping the paint as cool as possible.

3 – Clay Bar

Clay bar the entire car. Make sure to wipe down the finish afterward, keeping it as clean as possible.

4 – Compound Buffing

Grab your machine polisher, the Ultimate Compound, and the orange pad. Attach the pad to the polisher using the velcro backing, make sure it’s centered. Prime the pad by dabbing 8-10 dime-sized amounts across the surface. Start working one section at a time, around 2 x 2 feet. Before you turn on the polisher, press the pad against the paint. Compound polish should be soaked within the pad, along with the paint. Press the pad against the surface, set to speed setting 2-3, and begin spreading the compound around in quick passes. Then, turn it up to 5-6 and let the fun begin. Use overlapping, slow passes. Once you’re done, wide the area clean with a microfiber towel.

5 – Inspection

Check out your results of the first section. Go over the area again if most of the swirl marks aren’t gone. If the swirls are gone, but a light haze is present, don’t worry. The finishing polish will take care of it.

6 – Polish Buffing

Use the M205 Finishing Polish with the white pad. Follow the same steps from before. Prime the pad and rub it against the paint before turning on the polisher. Use a max speed of 3-4 with medium pressure. The Finishing Polish will take care of the rest of the haze and micro scratches. Once you’re finished with the first section, wipe clean.

7 – Inspection

Again, check out the results of the M205 Finishing Polish. It’s doubtful you’ll need more than one application, but double-check all the same. If it’s looking great, move on and finish the rest of your car.

8 – Wax

Your paint is looking great. The swirl marks are gone, leaving a bright clean finish. Apply the wax using the black foam pad. Use very light pressure, letting the pad float along with the paint. You’re just coating your car’s finish, that’s all. Wipe clean with a microfiber towel.

Depends on the depth. If they're just light scratches across the clearcoat then it can be fixed with DA machine polishing, but if its really gouged into the paint then you can only just improve it at the most.

For fixing light scratches, for example using on my BRZ, I use a Porter Cable / Meguiar's G100 DA (dual-action) polisher with the DA Microfiber correction system with the 5 inch microfiber cutting disks. I use Meguiar's ultimate compound with the DA on areas were im just fixing light cobwebbing since it's lighter. Then follow up with a full wax. The two links provided below should cover it:

DA Polisher: https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7424XP-6-Inch-Variable-Speed-Polisher/dp/B002654I46/ref=pd_bxgy_263_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=T5NAEKBRAPWN6WM9HT26

Kit: https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-DMCKIT6-Microfiber-Correction-System/dp/B004VFWUXK

The kit includes everything including the backing plate to fit the Porter Cable polisher. Only things missing from the kit needed are microfiber towels.

I would buy this DA:
http://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7424XP-6-Inch-Variable-Speed-Polisher/dp/B002654I46/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407291588&sr=8-1&keywords=porter+cable+7424+xp

This backing plate:
http://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumatic-4607-Velcro-Backing/dp/B003CH3Z8W/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_y

3 of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-BUFX_102HEX5-Hex-Logic-Medium-Heavy/dp/B0040MI9H0/ref=pd_sim_hi_6?ie=UTF8&refRID=0NJJRSFYV45X3EWAS3NA


2 of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-BUFX_104HEX5-Hex-Logic-Light-Medium/dp/B0041MVQ4M/ref=pd_sim_auto_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=11TRQVZC789CNJ8EXED1


1 of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-BUFX_106HEX5-Hex-Logic-Finishing/dp/B0042TTIYO/ref=pd_sim_auto_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=08HEKJEWM7H5NRFGAQNH

Pretty sure they are all compatible with the backing plate.

Harbor freight is definitely cheaper, but for ease of use and reliability, you can't go wrong with the PC7424.

The actual tool I used was Porter Cable's DA Polisher


With that I did:

• Simple microfiber mitt wash
  
• Microfiber towel dry
  
• Full body clay bar using this kit
  
  
• All-in-one wax & polish with this, applying with these.
  
  If you go this route, you'll also need a [hook&loop attachment]
  (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BQVF8J0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) for the polisher. I did a lot of research before landing on what would get me good results with very minimal time. I did the whole thing in about 4 hours, after not having done anything but a normal wash for 3.5 years. about 9 months later, I'm ready for (need) another detailing.

If going to this amount of effort you can just use automotive polishing compound (bar keepers friend paste would probably be pretty close) and a wax/polishing machine. It will remove the buildup and then you can apply a coat of wax or Rain-X and you can do it inside your bathroom as long as you put a board to support the glass.

Take both doors out and lean a couple of 2x4 in your shower from the back wall to the front lip and then lean the glass against them. liberally apply polishing compound or barkeepers mix to the glass and then use the buffer ON A LOW SPEED - high speed will just make the paste fly everywhere.

I was about to do this to mine again but will try a couple of the 'easy' remedies mentioned above first.

Automotive detailers use this method on windshield of cars to remove buildup and grime and they look brand new after. I bought the Porter Cable 7424XP Polisher/Sander to polish/wax a black car that I owned and the paint was very neglected from sitting outside the past 15 years. After using a buffing compound the paint looked absolutely perfect. I used a polishing compound on the windshield and all of the scratches from the wipers and road grit were gone. The car was pristine - unfortunately I did this to sell it faster instead of to keep :-(

Edit: Your picture just loaded for me, you could probably do this while the door is closed and without removing the glass. If you open the door for better access while doing it be sure to put up a plastic sheet to keep it from spraying everywhere.

I never took a class, just watch a lot of videos. If you do decide to get a polisher, mare sure its a DA polisher. The one I use is proven to not burn the paint. At lease if you don't hold it down in one section for 20 minutes lol. It is the Porter Cable 7424 xp. I attach a 6 inch backing plate to it and use it with some of Meguiar's Polishing pads. Here is a link if you want to learn more: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002654I46/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B002654I46&linkCode=as2&tag=perfautodet0a-20
Now that I think about it, Chemical Guys also sell like a complete kit that looks like a reasonable price. Here is a link: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UW1IQU/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B003UW1IQU&linkCode=as2&tag=perfautodet0a-20

I actually got mines from a local store and got rip off. This old lady sold it to me for 180 with pads only... bummer.
I think all you really need to do is clean the area well, clay it, mask it, and start with your polisher depending on the condition of the clear coat. edit: I can't spell lol

this is the one i have i also have a fear of peices flying around or getting hit with them so i just wear saftely glasses and blow the chunks away when i see them, dremels have a locking mechanism so the bits are easily switchable and u can buy them for fairly cheap

I use a Dremel 7700 with 1/4" sanding bands.

My dog is way more willing to tolerate this than clippers.

It's annoying they're not easily swapped on this, but for a cheap stand I get it.

Just as a side note, the Dremel 7700 is $30 on Amazon right now if you're in the market or would rather go that route.

For future note, if your screw starts to strip, get some penetrating oil like PB Blaster before putting too much muscle into it. Stripping a screw will make it very difficult to get out.

I started stripping a couple screws on my stove, used PB Blaster and was able to get all but one out without stripping. For that last screw, I had to use a Dremel saw (like this) to grind out a crevice and bust it out with a flathead.

If you can't find the exact same screw after this process, make sure to degrease the screws (and the whole) before putting them back in so they're less likely to get stuck again.

This would be fine.

I got one of these. I think an angle grinder might be too big/scary, plus the open wheel might catch fur.

Got this kit works great so far. The keyless chuck works fine too I got.

Which piece are you talking about to sand down the MVP?

Got this too

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I have this one - https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-4000-2-Performance-Attachments-Accessories/dp/B002L3RUVG, I like the multiple speeds because we use so many different types of materials. Higher speeds for grinding plaster, lower speeds for plastic or polishing if you dare.

LINK Three styles of kits there, depending on how many extra things you want, but you could always get the base kit and get the individual parts as needed.

This one is variable speed, which is nice

Time to make a window.

A good dremel kit like this one is perfect :
http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-4000-2-30-120-Volt-Variable/dp/B002L3RUVG/ref=sr_1_2?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1452695783&sr=1-2&keywords=dremel

Good question, and it pains me a bit that I have a small box of unused tools that were purchased when I began. I'm sure I missed a few things, but here you go:

• Lamp I love this thing, and it's silly how much it improved my craft.
  
• Utility knife (Stanley) with many replacement blades. I flip then toss these frequently.
  
• Shovel knife
  
• Beveler
  
• Burnishers
  
• Microfiber clothes
  
• Granite block
  
• Stitching pony (handmade and based upon http://www.instructables.com/id/3rd-Hand-Leather-Stitching-Clamp/)
  
• Awl
  
• Diamond Awl
  
• Wing Divider
  
• Pliers
  
• Craft scissors
  
• Thread snips
  
• Bone folder
  
• Mallet
  
• Cobbler hammer
  
• Ruler
  
• Cutting mat
  
• Detail brushes
  
• Needles
  
• Tokonole
  
• Glue
  
• Glue brushes
  
• 50/50 neatsfoot oil and beeswax (double-boiled)
  
• Heat gun
  
• Ritza Tiger thread
  
• Chisels I use these as pricking irons because they leave a massive hole
  
• Dremel
  
• Bulldog clips
  
  If links weren't provided then I already had the item.

Start Here

Found one

Just slip one of these in your carrying case!

Yes. DeWalt makes very nice routers and this is a very reasonable mid-size model. I'm going to give two other recommendations, though.

For mid-sized routers, you can't go wrong with the Bosh 1617EVSPK. It is a solid workhorse and wins more than a few comparison tests: http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-1617EVSPK-4-Horsepower-Variable-Collets/dp/B00005RHPD/

Honestly, though, I'd skip a mid-size router if I was getting my first router. The new compacts are extremely versatile and I find myself reaching for mine most of the time. It's gotten to the point that I use my router table for router table type stuff and my compact for everything else. My mid-size just sits there, except for rare occasions.

The best compact router I've found is the DeWalt DWP611PK. I've had it for about a year and it's been my go-to router ever since: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049ZFUK2/

Porter cable is quite nice, would also recommend checking out Bosch: http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-1617EVSPK-4-Horsepower-Variable-Collets/dp/B00005RHPD/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1371188943&sr=8-1&keywords=bosch+router

I did something similiar on my Rigid 3650 as far as the router table goes. My recommendation would be not to cheap out on the mounting plate - I ended up going with a plastic mounting plate off amazon that has been terrible. Looking into either the JessEm or Woodpeckers plates myself.

this

For about $200, the 1617 evspk is a great set up

Is this bosch still a good first router to buy?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005RHPD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_7HYYDbYR4SAEE

Thanks! Any links or suggestions on a router table set up that would be better suited for trim molding?

How about this? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005RHPD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FP5TDbH7A1RC5

This comes with 2 choices. Comes with a plunger and fixed option, but for twice the money it can come with a table. Is the table necessary or would I be better off skipping it and just saving the money?

As someone about to take out some material with a forstner and then take the rest out/smooth it out with a router that I have never used before, I'm now slightly terrified to tackle this project. Before I head into this I figured I would ask a couple questions.

I have a template that I purchased along with the bowl bit. It sounds like one of the issues was that the bearing was not fully on the piece of wood? If I make sure the bearing isn't partially above the template when I start should that be okay? Not sure if I explained that well or am fully understanding the part where you mentioned "mistake number one".

When the bearing was riding up the spiraling lip of the forstner bit remnants, is that something I can avoid by starting the bearing on the template and smoothing everything below before plunging the router a little deeper? For this project I will need to use a collett extension to get the router bit deep enough so it will eventually have to go below the template and ride along the work piece.

Any other tips you can give me before I head in would be great! This is a 2.5 HP Bosch plunge/fixed base router. This one to be exact - http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-1617EVSPK-4-Horsepower-Variable-Collets/dp/B00005RHPD - Would it be smart to start on a lower speed? Or would a higher speed be smarter to make sure it doesn't snag on the hard wood? I'm using a combination of maple/walnut glued together.

Bosch makes a nice router kit that accepts 1/4" and 1/2" shank bits and comes with a fixed base and plunge base, all in a nice case. I got mine for just under $200 and have since spent an additional $45 for a table insert for my main powered workbench. You can also find refurbs for $150ish.

Bosch 12 Amp 2-1/4 Combination Horsepower Plunge and Fixed Base Variable Speed Router Kit 1617EVSPK with 1/4-Inch and 1/2-Inch Collets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005RHPD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YxXbBbAQJ61KP

Hey thanks for the message. The main reason I was looking at the smaller dewalt was due to savings on cash. I think if I was in the $200+ range I'd go for this Bosch It's only $3 more and has 0.5 more HP.
Edit: typo

I'm not saying you can't build floor to ceiling book shelves with out a table saw... but I can pretty confidently say I wouldn't be able to build quality shelves with out a table saw. Even a crappy bottom model contractor saw will help you do a lot of things.... If you're wondering check out

www.woodworkingformeremortals.com (i think I got that typed in right) and look at Steve Ramsey's videos up till about 2010 when he upgraded his saw. it's a crappy craftsman contractor saw but he makes some pretty cool stuff with it.

as far as saws go - I have the Ridigid one with the cast iron top - I can't think of the numbers at the moment. the reddit community seems fickle on this saw, some weeks reddit loves it, other weeks reddit seems to think it lacks balls. I personally have had it ~ 6 months and I love it. before that, I had a contractor saw and avoided table sawing as much as I could. Now, I find excuses to use it. seriously, I go out of my way to cut stuff on the table saw that would have been much easier with some other method. The other day I made a fresh loaf of bread and actually had to talk myself out of putting it on my cross cut sled. It seemed like a good idea at the time.

for a router I have this Dewalt. I actually got it for Christmas this year and so far haven't had any problems other then finding dust collection that will attach to the plunge base, but it's a minor problem really and to be honest, I haven't looked very hard.

Also since you didn't mention it in your tools list - get a 4 foot level if you're going to make a book shelf out of sheet goods possibly an 8 foot (but that's excessive). you're going to want a really good straight edge to help break down your ply before you try to mill it through a table saw or anything else.

Also - and it can be pretty cheap - compressed air with at least a brad nailer. I've found compressed air to be perhaps the most convenient luxury to have in the shop - others here might disagree.

Hope all this helps.

I just bought this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006JKXE/ref=pe_385040_121528360_TE_dp_1

Love it so far.

Please don't buy that router, instead buy a DW 618PK or a DW 621.

Also consider a bit from Eagle

Canadian Links

Hitatchi Combo

Bosch that is on sale actually a pretty good price

Dewalt

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW618PK-12-AMP-Fixed-Base-Variable-Speed/dp/B00006JKXE/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1480635974&sr=1-2&keywords=dewalt+router

Plunged and Fixed Base.

which bosch are you referring to? Why don't you like the of1400? Before I was considering it, I had pretty much narrowed things down to this dewalt.

I have no interest in a festool router table. what makes festool routers not work well in other tables? I'm pretty much ready to pull the trigger on buying the TS55. If I'm going with a festool dust extractor it seemed like a good idea to also get the of1400 for dust collection purposes.

Rhomboids and traps insert there. Mine are awful.

Invest in one of these: Orbital Polisher and one of these: Lacrosse Ball to work those knots out.

It was a $30 deal I picked up from Amazon. The paint is brand new and doesn't need correction per-se - I have the polisher for... well, polishing. Maybe "buffer" is a better term. I have a dewalt random orbital "sander" I use for actual cutting if needed. The cheapo polisher actually works really well for making things shiny though, and I figured it would also work for gently cleaning paint and stripping wax/product. I don't think that's the problem because it was only one panel that had problems shrug

I'm not new to detailing, just coating. I'm more curious how the application will respond to further polishing, and how aggressive of a product to use for that purpose so the entire application won't be removed. Also, how long to wait before doing the opticoat "correction." It seems like so many people have issues with streaking, that it would be easier to just work a post-application polish into the workflow if that gets more consistent results. I do appreciate the comments though.

I will use the "real" tool to carefully re-prep the rest of the car to see if that makes a difference. I was just going with the "less agressive" option to start since the paint is mostly pristine already.

Edit - what I used is similar to this

It's etched, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000077CPT/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_Chi.wbEWYQSPG how's this for a polisher?

Definitely check out r/AutoDetailing,

But some quick tips, make sure you get a dual action orbital polisher, not a normal rotary polisher. It's pretty easy to mess up your paint with a normal one if you're not well practiced, but DA polishers are pretty easy to use as long as you pay attention to what you're doing. There's also random orbit polishers, but those don't generally provide enough power to do any serious paint correction...

​

Examples:

Rotary polisher (hard to use): https://www.amazon.com/POLISHFLEX-Compact-Variable-Rotary-Polisher/dp/B004XAN4M4/ref=sr_1_12?keywords=rotary+polisher&qid=1551213120&s=gateway&sr=8-12

​

Random orbit polisher (no power):

https://www.amazon.com/DECKER-WP900-6-Inch-Random-Polisher/dp/B000077CPT/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=rotary+polisher&qid=1551213120&s=gateway&sr=8-10

​

Dual Action polisher (what you probably want...):

https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7424XP-6-Inch-Variable-Speed-Polisher/dp/B002654I46/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=rotary+polisher&qid=1551213120&s=gateway&sr=8-7

Orbital Buffer

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

https://smile.amazon.com/Black-Decker-WP900-6-Inch-Polisher/dp/B000077CPT/ref=sr_1_2

---

Never forget to smile again | ^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

Nah, that looks crazy haha

I use one of these. Super cheap, super effective.

I don't know that it's that much better than a roller, but I do feel like it works a more targeted area than rolling. I haven't used it on anywhere other than quads, hamstrings, IT band and calves though. I have this one

EDIT: link formatting

Oh! It has to be Neko Case who is a indie-folk artist. She has such a beautiful voice and writes about interesting shit like her great uncle going crazy and being eaten by wolves and the capacity tornadoes have for love.

This may seem like a stretch but I pick it because Neko herself loves doing DIY projects and even renovated a whole barn by herself in Vancouver. I also pick this because there isn't that many things of her's on amazon. :/

Music is life!

Use a car buffer, 30 bucks from amazon. No, I'm not trolling you.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B000077CPT/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new

Yeah its probably one of these. They wont do any real polishing or compounding.

you could use this to relax your muscles better than any commercial massager can! It is awesome (second link like to videos)


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000077CPT?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00

http://www.allthingsgym.com/car-polisher-next-level-self-myofascial-release/

I've had one of these for almost 10 years, and it's worked great for spreading wax AND polishing with several menzerna products as well as megs ultimate compound. There's no speed adjustment and you have to use those turtle wax style microfiber bonets, but it was the best thing around for $30 for a while. http://amzn.com/B000077CPT

Now that the HarborFreight one is out and uses regular pads, is adjustable speed and is reliable, that $60-70 seems like the best way to go.

I bought a small Makita that has an oiled compressor. Thing is awesome and is amazingly quiet - probably the best thing about it. I can run it in my basement doing work and no one knows. Not a huge air volume, but fine for my tasks.

Makita MAC700 Big Bore 2.0 HP Air Compressor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001Q2VK0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qq2dAbFAT770D

> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001Q2VK0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qq2dAbFAT770D

I have this one as well and a Porter Cable brad nailer and a couple paslode guns.

That Makita compressor is hands down the best one I've ever used or owned. I'd highly recommend the OP get it and a good gun seperately.

I've have a lot of DeWalt tools and I love them, but I can't say I have any experience with their compressors, just was looking at them since I know its typically a good brand. I saw one Makita in my budget, I just wasn't sure if it was worth the money since its only 2.5 gallons but also only 130 psi: [Makita MAC700] (https://www.amazon.com/Makita-MAC700-Big-Bore-Compressor/dp/B0001Q2VK0/ref=zg_bs_9022396011_14?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=R9DMEE93E13TWRMPH908)

I have this Makita. Since it is oiled it is quieter than the oiless models.

I bought one of these a couple of years ago, and I've been very happy with it.

I have a Makita MAC700(~$200) and it is incredibly quiet. You can have a conversation at normal speaking volume with the compressor running in the same room. The tank isn't huge, so I wouldn't use it for sanding or painting, but it's great for the typical DIY'er in a home garage.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0001Q2VK0/

I use a dremel drill press (amazon link)

Thanks for the suggestion, but I'm not interested in trains, the following items on my wish list are this Dremel workstation, and this drop pouch for spent magazines, but one is more than $25, and the other wouldn't be a good thread-starter.

> Are you chasing unicorns?

So that is what it is called! lol!

When you don't know something, you gotta ask the experts! I may have to start looking into an entire replacement tailstock in this case. I have seen other tailstocks with the crank but they have another (possibly removable) live center attached to it. I might be able to make that work.

/u/Silound, I did look into the Dremel drill press as an alternative and the idea of drilling a hole into something to hold the pin in place is a great idea! Several reviews on Amazon have noted that the dremel doesn't sit perpendicular to the base. I don't know if that is due to the placement of the dremel inside of the cradle or manufacture error.

In any case, this was my first attempt at drilling a 1mm hole in the pin freehand and this is how close to center I got. I am a thin hair off to the left side of center. As you can see, the larger hole was easier. If the entire length of the nestling pin would be 1mm as well, that wouldn't be a problem. However, the nestling pin has to have a larger head so that the pin doesn't fall out the bottom and I would have to match the degree of offset for it to fit correctly. I might need to catch one of those unicorns and rub some of it's blood on the dremel to make that one work, lol!

Thank both of you for your delicious knowledge! I appreciate it.

Dremel is a company that makes small electric power tools, including a rotary tool with many attachments and accessories for drilling, sanding, polishing, etc. Here's the web page for that tool:

https://www.dremel.com/en_US/tools/-/subcategory/tool/find-by-category/27343/rotary

h\Here's the drill press stand (not including the drill tool) on Amazon. Read the reviews, however:

https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-220-01-Rotary-Workstation-Station/dp/B00068P48O?psc=1&SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-osx-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B00068P48O

Brain dump if you don't mind:

UPS store has magazine paper they can print on. They'll usually sell you blanks for pennies. That stuff it the absolute best transfer paper. It transfers perfect, and practically melts in water. Get a cheap laminatior and use that for the fusing. I use a piece of scotch tape on one edge and run it through four or five times. Use a green scotchbright to clean it under the sink with dish soap before you try to adhere it. Only use acetone to remove it after the etch. These three things made my toner transfer process %100 reliable. I can etch smaller traces now too.

For etchant you should try 2 parts %70 peroxide mixed with 1 part muriatic acid (always add acid to the peroxide, not the other way). It's cheap, less toxic, and etches fast. Easy to get locally too since it's just hardware store and walgreens stuff. You also can see the etch better. Mix it in a glass container outside. It gets hot and off-gasses for a couple minutes when mixed, but it's pretty safe after that. It also looks like lime koolaid. Do not drink it.

Checkout the little dremel drill press. It's great for PCBs.

You could get a detachable drill press. Similar concept to your millscraft, but heavier guide rail and a proper lever to lower the drill. Craftsman used to make a decent version that packed up pretty small. If you can find one check for play in the linear bushings.

Update: there is a version offered by dremel

https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-220-01-Rotary-Workstation-Station/dp/B00068P48O

A dremel tool and a dremel press. Was messy!

A flex-shaft is a great all-around tool, but you'd have to get one that has a drill press attachment for the hand tool for that specific function. The set I know of with that configuration is the Foredom flex shaft and drill press.

You can also get similar functionality out of a dremel drill press that works with most current dremel tools.

Yea, I'd use the dremel drill press. just to be safe.

It reminds me of the small drill press I have for my spare Dremel. Like this

Dremel Drill Press

You could always get her a Dremel work station like this one. Then a pair of soft jaw pliers. Why soft jaw pliers? Well it gets her hand away from the cutting/drilling edge, important if she is working with small stones. And the soft jaw wont mar the stones. In addition to that gripping small things when you have arthritis can aggravate the condition, with the pliers it will take longer for her hands to become fatigued.

Yeah it's this one: https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-220-01-Rotary-Tool-Station/dp/B00068P48O. It's pretty cool and convenient

Sweet. Just large enough for the job.

Protip: Move the table away from the wall, get a surge protector (or two), and drape your cords off the back. That'll free up a lot of space. Also, the Dremel Rotary Tool Workstation is very handy.

Unfortunately I was hoping to use RGB LEDS, I can't believe I didn't specify that. Sorry about that, I edited it in. Would you be able to explain the common cathode vs common anode? I'll be looking it up but just to make sure I have the right idea for it.

 

I'll more than likely be using a relay at first, following tlucas's comment above just to get a bit of a better understanding but will be pushing to move over to a more complicated setup using transistors as they seem to be more efficient.

 

Ah yes I had picked out a multimeter but is there a type that you would suggest? I wouldn't be against learning how to make a board, i've looked at tutorials and it seems reasonably simple for just a basic board with no special features. I looked into the materials for a board, but the only thing I haven't figured out is the dremel. Should I go with a handheld one or would a standing one be better?

Edit: It seems like the standing one would be better, however people aren't too fond of that one I linked, I may end up going with a drill press

dremel has a drill press work station I've been considering picking it up.

Thanks for the input. I don't necessarily need one that can be moved around. I looked at your recommendations--i couldn't find anything on the Delta except replacement part stuff. The Ridgid is a little out of my price range. I should have specified, I can add about $100 to the gift price, but can't justify much more than that right now.

At the $300 level, here is the DEWALT DW745 and the Delta 36-6010. Would either of these be worth it?

I'm looking for my first tablesaw. I'll be primarily using it to rip common boards and plywood for simple home funiture. Hopefully someday I'll be using it on hard woods for nicer tops. For sub $500 should I go with one of the hundreds of old Craftsman 113's on craigslist like this one, or a new direct drive worksite setup like this one? I don't have a big shop, but the wheels on the craftsman would be sufficient for moving it out of the way when not in use.

You're talking about this dewalt, right?

​

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW745-10-Inch-Job-Site-Capacity/dp/B000HXT2N6/ref=pd_sbs_469_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000HXT2N6&pd_rd_r=7f5c7f8c-bc3f-11e8-83e7-0baf9bd39183&pd_rd_w=St9da&pd_rd_wg=jY29z&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=0bb14103-7f67-4c21-9b0b-31f42dc047e7&pf_rd_r=TR5CTK0QQKDY5E70FC84&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=TR5CTK0QQKDY5E70FC84

​

Thanks for the tips on the craftsman, that definitely helps

Currently selling for less that Home Depot. It is a nice saw and should sell new in box for close to that fairly quickly. A dewalt planer would also sell quickly.

DEWALT DW745 10-Inch Compact Job-Site Table Saw with 20-Inch Max Rip Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HXT2N6/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_rb9Wub0G94XHS
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HXT2N6/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_rb9Wub0G94XHS

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HXT2N6/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HXT2N6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

thats my saw. Standard slots I believe.

Poor form having a referral code in the link. Here is a clean link. And here is the price history for the past 120 days.

So you say skip it all together and save and that I'm dreaming if I think I'll get a decent tool for 300?

This is what I was scoping out if I did go with new.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HXT2N6/ref=s9_simh_gw_p469_d1_i3?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=desktop-3&pf_rd_r=0Z1SJ2MMNX30NFRZRY71&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=1970567562&pf_rd_i=desktop

And this. Never heard of the brand but reviews are good.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EN2JONA/ref=s9_simh_gw_p469_d1_i3?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=desktop-3&pf_rd_r=1JVDAYMDC2V9F8SKTS1P&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=1970567562&pf_rd_i=desktop

Not sliding but very accurate. For trim and flooring this is the best for the price. but a sliding one is ideal, this cant handle a 2x8.

https://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-C10FCE2-15-Amp-10-inch-Compound/dp/B000V5Z6RG

This one will be good.

I’ve used this one for almost 2 years and haven’t had a single issue.

I built a stand out of one sheet of plywood and use that. Just YouTube stands and you can find some decent ones you can build out of 2x4’s for practically nothing.

I’ve built some awesome furniture with that saw and it looks like the first one is a remake which is cheaper.

99 on amazon

I use my miter saw much more than my circular saw. I got this guy years ago and have had no regrets.

The Hitachi C10FCE2 is a perfectly good saw. Plenty of power, cuts accurately, has an accurate, solid fence. It checks off all the essential marks for a quality tool, but has absolutely no extra features.

While I'd prefer a sliding fence to a flip fence, and I really don't like the clamp position on it (it will get in the way of bevel cuts when attached on the left side), it is still a a very good tool.

Plus you can get a miter stand and still be within about $20 of the price of the Makita LS1040.

For $107 on Amazon its a hard saw to beat for the money.

https://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-C10FCE2-15-Amp-10-inch-Compound/dp/B000V5Z6RG

Do NOT buy this. It comes with 5 drills/drivers/impacts. Here is what you need:




http://www.amazon.com/Makita-LCT314W-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-3-Piece/dp/B005C95E2I/ref=sr_1_11?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1457007466&sr=1-11&keywords=12v+drill+driver+combo+kit




http://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-C10FCE2-15-Amp-10-inch-Compound/dp/B000V5Z6RG/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1457007519&sr=1-2&keywords=compound+miter+saw




http://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-PC75TRS-7-5-Amp-Reciprocating/dp/B004V327PS/ref=sr_1_9?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1457007539&sr=1-9&keywords=sawzall





http://www.amazon.com/WEN-61720-4-Inch-2-Inch-18-Gauge/dp/B000EJW1ZY/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1457007628&sr=1-1&keywords=brad+nailer





http://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-PCFP02003-3-5-Gallon-Pancake-Compressor/dp/B00BMUGQNC/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1457007761&sr=1-1&keywords=air+compressor




http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-60-100-10-Piece-Standard-Screwdriver/dp/B0000950PN/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1457007815&sr=1-4&keywords=screwdriver+set




http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-51-624-20-Ounce-Fiberglass-Hammer/dp/B000VSSG2K/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1457007879&sr=1-3&keywords=hammer+set




http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW1177-20-Piece-Black-Oxide-Metal/dp/B001EYU5N8/ref=sr_1_9?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1457007985&sr=1-9&keywords=drill+bits




http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW1177-20-Piece-Black-Oxide-Metal/dp/B001EYU5N8/ref=sr_1_9?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1457007985&sr=1-9&keywords=drill+bits




http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-33-425-Powerlock-25-Foot-Measuring/dp/B00002X2GQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1457008034&sr=1-1&keywords=tapemeasure

Found a guy (well reviewed) in another city that basically does anything construction related. He said he can cut them for me but his minimum job price is $75. For the price, I am leaning towards just ordering this $99 10" Miter Saw and this $22 10" Non-Ferrous Saw Blade, taking it to the Maker Space and cutting it there.

Do those look like they will be good enough to get the job done? I am a bit concerned, I have one of my pieces measured out to being 1496mm of a 1500mm piece (increased all of the Z frame pieces by 100mm). Worried the blade cut may possibly be too thick for that to work.

If you plan on building more than a work bench I recommend getting a miter saw. You can get a decent one for cheap:

[This is what I got]
(http://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-C10FCE2-10-Inch-Compound-Miter/dp/B000V5Z6RG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422581816&sr=8-1&keywords=mitre+saw)

My plan was to trade up if I ever outgrew it, but that hasn't happened yet.

Just an FYI, you can get the 7424X for $119.99 off Amazon.

Is that $199 in US dollars? If so the same polisher is on [Amazon] (http://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7424XP-6-Inch-Variable-Speed-Polisher/dp/B002654I46?ie=UTF8&keywords=porter%20cable%207424xp&qid=1465491315&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1) for $120

PORTER-CABLE 7424XP 6-Inch Variable-Speed Polisher

https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7424XP-6-Inch-Variable-Speed-Polisher/dp/B002654I46

While I don't have that specific new one, I do own the previous generation.

It's an average tool. It's a little louder than other ones I have used, nor does it have the same amount of power output.

If you can spare an extra $40, I'd personally recommend this:

https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7424XP-6-Inch-Variable-Speed-Polisher/dp/B002654I46

Buy a Porter Cable 7424XP buffer and some cutting compound and polishing compound and buff it out after a good clay barring.

Hello every one, my questions seem like they're fairly simple so I'll get right to the point.

I'm trying to figure out if my car needs compound or if it just needs to be polished/waxed. The car is white so it was kind of hard to get a picture of the swirls. Here is a picture. The whole car is like this.

I'm also planning on buying this polisher. And I'm not really sure which brand of pads I should get for it for compounding (if needed), polishing and waxing.

I've never polished a car before so I'd like to practice on my old car then move on to my dads newer car which is a red 2011 ford focus, then move up to a grey 2016 ford escape, just thought I'd let you know.

The Porter Cable 2474XP is a good one for around $120. https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7424XP-6-Inch-Variable-Speed-Polisher/dp/B002654I46

I am very OCD about my car and its paint. I also live in an apartment complex with no hose, no covered parking and lots of shitty parkers. I recommend hitting up r/autodetailing and checking out their wiki.

​

As for my own cirumstances, I don't have a clear bra or ceramic coats as I prioritize paying my student loans to hundred to thousands of dollards of paint protection. However, I clean my car using AMMO Frothe, and do paint correction every so often as needed with a DA, Maguiars 205 and 105, and some Chemical Guys orange and white pads. I used Wolfgang Gloss 3.0 sealant on my car before winter and every month during the warmer months. If the car needs it, I'll do a gentle clay application before sealing.

​

Edit: This is the DA I use, but I recommend getting a separate velcro backing plate to mount reusable pads. Full disclosure, my gf works for the corporate parent company of Porter-Cable, and I got the thing dirt cheap.

A glaze would certainly cover up imperfections but it won't last too long. What country are you in? Can you do shipping through Amazon? If so I would recommend this, if price and shipping isn't too crazy. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002654I46/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_y6buzb0CTB6TD

Then check out the chemical guys pads on Amazon as well. If you cant get good shipping via Amazon then I'm sorry, I wish I knew more to be of help! But good luck!

I recently bought this polisher (http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B002654I46/ref=pe_386430_121528420_TE_dp_1) and I see that it says it is a 6 inch polisher. Does that mean I need to buy 6 inch pads? Also, do I need to buy a specific type of backing plate? Do I even need to buy a backing plate?

Porter Cable on Amazon is only $96 bucks IF you go to checkout

PORTER-CABLE 7424XP 6-Inch Variable-Speed Polisher https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002654I46/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_8mJxwbHAWDFER

If you have a dual action polisher (e.g. Harbor Freight or Porter Cable 7424 ), then it's definitely worth it to polish. By hand...well, if you've got about a week's worth of time and patience maybe.

If you don't want to make the investment in a dual action polisher or don't want to spend a long time polishing by hand, a wax may be the way to go. Most waxes will temporarily "fill" the tiny scratches, rendering them smoother, harder to see and ultimately making your car shinier. It will only last as long as the wax is on the paint though, which may be anywhere from a couple weeks to 2 or 3 months.

Because polish is a fine abrasive, yes, you can polish your car too often. Your car only has so much paint, and polish works by sanding off a very fine layer to smooth the paint out. As you can imagine, eventually it's possible to sand through the entire clear coat, especially with a heavier cutting compound. The less clear coat you have on your car, the less UV protection it has as well, so it will naturally degrade faster if you don't protect it (which is why applying a protective layer of wax, sealant or ceramic coating is essential after polishing).

It's a buffer like this one http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002654I46/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1459442970&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=porter+cable&dpPl=1&dpID=41RnkPdvCuL&ref=plSrch

This was polished (heavy cut then light cut) then waxed using a Porter Cable.

7" front lift and 5.5" rear progressive leafs + 1" block. It was super dangerous on stock leafs with TWO stacks 3" blocks.

1. Now this is a goblet worthy of a queen. And honey you should see me in a crown.
   
   
2. Every witch should look her best. These face brooms should help me out!
   
   
3. Sure, the hat completes my look, but this will make sure that the hair underneath is just as fabulous.
   
   
4. Sure, this may not be much of a stretch as far as explanations go, but how much more fitting could you get? (PS - It was even on my wishlist before today!).
   
   
5. I would be HORRIFIED if my chest were to look like just any one I could have snagged at Amazon-Alley. This will ensure that I can customize it to be completely unique!
   
   Bonus: This is one classy cape. I have to look my best when I'm off campus!

Thanks everyone for the advice everyone, I probably would have bought them had I found them yesterday, but I decided to go the DIY route. Since picking must be a very budget conscious hobby for me, I went ahead and took the plunge and bought the important tools. I figured making my own pins would be difficult and require a lot of crazy equipment, but I looked into it and realized it was a lot easier than expected. So just for anyone who's curious, here's what I got:

• $50 Kwikset rekey/pin set from eBay. 200 of each type of pins, 8 types of pins. Clips, followers, springs, and anything else needed to reassemble locks. That leaves enough pins to make absolutely every security pin that I know of, as well as any others that I find from watching people pick challenge locks. There are a good variety of these sets, so you can save some money here by getting only 50 or 100 of each pin type if you prefer. I just decided to start off big so I hopefully never have to buy another.
  
• $35 Rotary Tool. Used for a huge variety of DIY projects, including and excluding lockpicking. There are some cheaper options, but in my opinion you're better off buying at least a decent one to start so you don't have to upgrade later.
  
• $7 Needle File Set. Used in conjunction with your rotary tool as cutting/smoothing tools
  
• $25 Base Vice. Also is very useful for holding locks while picking.
  
   
  
  So in total $112 for all the components needed to make as many locks as I can imagine, many of which can be used for other projects.
  
   
  
  To add supplies for a few other DIY projects I also added:
  
  
• $6 Rotary Tool Bit Set. Used for various DIY projects.
  
• $9 Cutting Wheels for your Rotary tool.
  
• $6 Wood Plank. I'll use this along with the dremel bit set above to make a nice pinning tray.
  
• $2 12" x 0.5" x 0.023" Stainless Steel Feeler Gauge. Used to make picks, tension rods, etc. making it $2 per 2-3 tools. If the thickness you want is expensive/in short supply on amazon you can buy directly from the manufacturer here but in my experience the shipping is slower and the price is usually a ~$0.10 higher per 12" rod. If you really get into making DIY tools you can buy stainless steel feeler coils from easterngage which are 25' x 0.5" x 0.15"/0.18"/0.23"/0.25"/0.26" or any thickness you want really. For 25', depending on the thickness it'll cost you anywhere from $50.64 to $64.95. You might need the 1" wide coils for making double sided tension tools.
  
   
  
  So another $21 brings it to $133 plus $2 per 2-3 tools that you need. Add in this $6 case and a few $4-$6 practice locks around aliexpress (1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th 5th, 6th, 7th), and you've got a great starter kit that sets you up to DIY anything you might need in the future. I also took advantage of Peterson's mega christmas sale (plus the 10% discount code they gave us) and got a ~$25 order of $1-$3 picks to start me off

Dremel like this one: http://www.amazon.ca/Dremel-7700-1-15-MultiPro-7-2-Volt/dp/B002BACCDA/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1449113974&sr=8-7&keywords=dremel+7 ?

I'm looking at getting a rotary tool for Nerf mods (and other stuff), so this review couldn't have been more timely.

Does anyone knowledgable have an opinion on this versus the Dremel 7700 Cordless on sale for $35 on Amazon? http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-7700-1-15-MultiPro-7-2-Volt/dp/B002BACCDA/ref=sr_1_1?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1425392723&sr=1-1&keywords=dremel#customerReviews

My Dremel has a speed control... I don't know details about all the models so I'll Google search that now to check.

Looks like there's several models of Dremel that has variable speed: https://www.dremel.com/en_US/tools/-/subcategory/tool/find-by-category/27343/rotary

I think I have the Dremel 4000: https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-4000-2-30-120-Volt-Variable/dp/B002L3RUVG/ref=sr_1_6?&qid=1563304627&s=gateway&sr=8-6

http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-4000-2-30-120-Volt-Variable/dp/B002L3RUVG

Hahah, i see.

I looked around web and found this awesome kit, is it good enough?

https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-4000-2-30-120-Volt-Variable/dp/B002L3RUVG?th=1

http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-4000-2-30-120-Volt-Variable/dp/B002L3RUVG

ahh ok i wanted to avoid any battery units because i already know it would die in the middle of working.

Is this the dremel you got? It seems like they have a lot of different Dremel 4000 models with huge price differences

https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-4000-2-30-120-Volt-Variable/dp/B002L3RUVG/ref=sr_1_2?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1501452157&sr=1-2&keywords=dremel+4000

https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-4000-2-Performance-Attachments-Accessories/dp/B002L3RUVG/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=dremel+3000&qid=1572396169&s=hi&sr=1-6 < i assume this with the dremal grout bit + removal kit?

So I have recently started doing my own scale work. It is quite fun but can be tedious work with how precise you MUST be for drilling screws or the knife wont go back together properly. Blade centering can be screwed up etc.
Anyways the main tools that I use are as follows:

Skil Drill press

Dremel 4000

Dremel Shaper Table

Swivel Benchtop Vise

You will still need other assorted accessories like sanding wheels, cutting wheels (if you dont have a table saw for cutting down G10/Wood/Whatever media). While I am not a pro and I am just starting these are the essentials. Please feel free to PM me or email me [email protected] if you have any other questions. I would be more than happy to help. It is extremely rewarding when you complete a set. The first few may not be perfect but you MADE them yourself :)

The only 2 I have successfully completed. I still need to work on my pattern technique

1. Not sure if this counts, but I'm getting it for my boyfriends birthday...
   
   
2. Simon Pegg is English, Game of Thrones is English, and I need a beanie
   
   
3. I will write a book on this and I'll read it? God, I'm sorry, This is horrible.
   
   
4. Ha! Bet you weren't expecting these, were you?
   
   
5. I need a new flash drive...
   
   
6. The Knight Bus is purple.
   
   
7. A game.
   
   
8. I love steampunk.
   
   
9. A Dremel
   
   
10. Triforce key chain.
    
    
11. I can organize my DnD dice?
    
    
12. DnD is a hobby. Right?
    
    
13. This is kinda nerdy...
    
    
14. Turtles are totally natural.
    
    
15. Cthulu is very green.
    
    
16. Shirt
    
    
17. I find this funny
    
    
18. I'm still scared of the dark, and I could string these together as beads...
    
    
19. I can cut down some trees?
    
    
20. I need one of these
    
    Bonus:Mats?
    
    Happy happy cakeday!!!!!
    
    

Shaver

For doing mods like this a Dremel is a must have. I started using a Grinding blade to cut the fan holes but that melts the plastic and makes a mess. Using circular saw blades that actually cut away material makes working with plastic much easier. A standard drill and Philips head screw driver were the only other tools I used. All you need is the right inspiration after that. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002L3RUVG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00,
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RCZ1GL8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00

These aren't are the droids drills you're looking for

DeWalt makes a solid power drill that fits your budget. This is the one I have. Lots of power and durably built. DeWalt has many other tools that accept the same battery.
Here are a bunch more with various battery sizes. Not sure of the advantages of the various battery sizes, but I have no complaints with my 18v.

I've got this one and absolutely love it. Comes with two batteries and enough torque to drill/screw everything I've needed it for so far.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002RLR0EY/ref=s9_hps_bw_g469_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=center-5&pf_rd_r=0Y8FEK8Y5MC72QRAC8WJ&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=1275635522&pf_rd_i=228292

I bought this when my Dremel shit the best. I've carved the shoulders off Gold Dollars with it without problems.

What type of budget does your team have?

How much space is available as your work area?

How experienced at building robots are the mentors?

What build system does you team intend to use? How many custom parts do y'all want to make?

What level of CAD skills does the team have?

We need to know these things to give valid advice. If your team has $100 to spend on tools the list is really different than if your team has $500. If your team has ~$4000 and really experienced mentors the list is also totally different.

​

Let's assume your team has really limited budget and wants to make the most of it. I will also assume you are using the REV system.

Here is my minimum tool list:
5.5 mm Nut Driver - http://www.revrobotics.com/rev-41-1119/

5.5 mm wrench - http://www.revrobotics.com/rev-41-1374/

Allen wrench set - https://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Hex-Allen-Wrench-Ball/dp/B0776C2D6H/

Rotary Cutter - https://smile.amazon.com/WEN-2305-Rotary-Tool-Shaft/dp/B003BYRFH8

Hand drill - https://smile.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-DR260C-Drill-Driver/dp/B00T2VJ93C/

Hack saw - https://smile.amazon.com/Tactix-267031-Adjustable-Hacksaw-Frame/dp/B00ABBUU2Q/
Bench Vice - https://smile.amazon.com/WEN-453BV-3-Inch-Heavy-Swivel/dp/B07KKXQQ3S

Metric Drill bit set - https://smile.amazon.com/Drill-Warehouse-99pcs-1-5mm-Titanium/dp/B01NC25BRK

Pliers set - https://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Tools-4-Piece-Pliers-Set/dp/B015X2NHOK


That works out to be ~$110 + shipping and tax. These are the bare minimum tools IMO. If you can answer the questions above I can give you some better advice.

- Frank

Actually, if you read the reviews it's been universally rejected for hamster use. Seems that every user has had the hamster escape from it. I think it's meant to be a guinea pig cage.

I actually made my own bin cages and then connected them to an OvO habitrail system. but be warned I spent a fair amount of money by the time I was done. I don't know what your budget is, but making a bin cage (another DIY vid ) ends up costing around 25-50 bucks, and it 's pretty easy. This is the one I've used when I made my bin cages. It ends up at around 400 sq inches which is good. The nice thing is that since it's plastic it's dead easy to cut a round hole in it to add tubes.

If DIY really isn't your thing I guess this is the pre built cage I'd choose. There are a few questions about durability, you need to change the water bottle to a safer one, and it can only connect to the manufacturer's tube system, which isn't cheap. but neither were the OvO tubes.

There are much more expensive cages as well. You can spend easily 200-300 on a nice prebuilt. Or even make one out of a Ikea bookcase. Lastly if you do decide to build a bin cage I suggest you buy or see if you can borrow a dremel tool. It makes the whole job much easier than using any sort of knife.

I live in Vancouver. My glass is literally out of a photo frame that I got at Dollarama for $2.5. Nothing fancy.

I cut it to size using my dremel https://www.amazon.ca/2305-Rotary-Tool-Flex-Shaft/dp/B003BYRFH8/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1501045676&sr=1-1&keywords=dremel with these wheels https://www.amazon.ca/SE-DW13-5-Piece-Diamond-Wheels/dp/B000P49NCC

I attached the glass with 4 binder clips, each measuring 15mm in width. Also from Dollarama; a pack for a Loonie.

Few tips. If you do this, get 2 or 3 frames because you will probably end up cracking your first one as I did. Also be safe. You need to protect your eyes, your hands, and your breath. Again, don't really have to be fancy. For my eye protection I was wearing just my glasses. I also had some good fitting working gloves (any comfortable slightly thick gloves would do) and I wore a surgical mask for protection from glass dust (a slightly damp cloth covering your mouth and nose would work fine too)

Alternatively, you could do this the normal and easy way and use an actual glass cutting tool https://www.amazon.ca/L-TMS-Professional-Handle-Cutter-Cutting/dp/B06X9GRGGD I didn't have one at hand to I just used my dremel.

Don't know if you have a rotary tool already, but I just ordered this one from Amazon. Great reviews and wildly cheap.

I bought mine because it came with a case and had a nice speed adjustment.

Can't really say I'd recommend a Dremel to anyone though. Don't really think they outperform the cheaper alternatives considering how much more they cost.

For instance I paid more for the Dremel flexible shaft than this entire kit.

I like it raw like u/overlyapologeticguy.

I don't really have any funny stories about that type "cough" protection.

Other protection related story. Was trying to tan before going on a date one time. Didn't think I would need any tanning lotion or anything like that. Well the employee recommended I try the lowest strength bed for 10 minutes... so I did. Holy shit. I was fine for about an hour and then it started. I was so freaking red all over my entire body. I'm a ginger so I burn really easily. Even the inside of my ears was bright red. It was so bad that my freckles all turned this weird shade of green. I spent the next several hours in a bathtub full of cool water and baking soda. It took about a week before my entire body peeled off in giant disgusting chunks of skin. So painful.

Long story short, I've accepted that I come in two shades. Snow white and tomato red.

I've been wanting this rotary tool kit so I can hopefully fix some small rust spots on my car before they spread any more.

Thanks for the contest.

You'll need to buy a new trigger but you will be able to put a cylinder drop in into this gearbox. If the spartan triggerboard does not fit because of a certain pin (like mine did) you can dremel anything thats in the way. Here's a trigger and here's the cheap dremel i used to fit the board in.

I think I may have found a solution:

• WEN 2305-KC Keyless rotary tool chuck adjusts to accept any bit from 1/32" to 1/8", about $7
  
• WEN 2305 rotary tool, about $20
  
  That should allow me to insert brass rod of any pin-sized diameter and make my own pins. I will just need to figure out a way to hold the rotary tool steady. Hopefully it'll fit in my vise.

I have this tool. It has a speed control, so I turn it to slow (ish) for drilling. It has a flex shaft so you can hold the tool end a bit more like a pencil or brush when working. I've used it for cutting and sanding/filing as well as drilling.

I had to buy some extra collets to hold my smaller drill bits.

I will say however that most of what I use it on are metal models (I'm an old-hammerer) and like others have said a hand turned drill may be fine on plastics.

Hey man, I know what it's like to make videos and get knocked on. I'm actually an 11 year manufacturing engineer who's poured molten metal on an industrial level, hundreds of thousands of pounds worth. I've Programmed and ran CNC machines, cut metals, drill welding, worked with water tools, abrasive tools, etc.

I've been trained by my grandfather who's been pouring metal since the 50's and my father who's been doing it since the 70's. Along with another half dozen men who all have a minimum of 20 years experience in industrial manufacturing. I'm going to give you some practical advice on how you could drastically improve your safety.

 

• I saw your DIY foundry once, you used cement in the slurry mix. I hope to god you aren't leaving that thing outside. Actually I hope you never use that furnace ever again. Good move using the aquarium stuff but cement is literally the worst thing you can use for anything with a flame on it. Cement is porous, it will absorb moister. If that thing ever absorbs enough and you fire it up, it WILL explode. If you are lucky it will just crack and i know you'll probably reply, "well I've been using it for ....". Ok, that's fine but what my father taught me the first time i stepped foot in our shop, "Dzuari, all it takes to kill you IS once." Don't ever fuck with mother nature or machines, you will always lose.
  
  If you are still using that furnace, please throw it out and remake it so my grandfather can stop rolling in his grave. Use one of these materials;
  
  Fine Kiln dried lapis sand
  
  Silica Sand 6lbs
  
  2200deg Rutland castable cement Fire Clay
  
  25lbs Rutland castable cement
  
  Kaowool Insulation Blanket
  
  Your best bet is to use silica sand but it's typically more expensive, however it will last the longest. The refractory is really where the durability is. I'd experiment with different types, you could even try adding in fiberglass reinforcement which may increase durability. Oh and here is a K-type thermometer. You can buy some thermocouple leads and figure out the math to accurately measure your burn temperatures so you don't over oxides your metals.
  
  And honestly, if it was me, I'd remove that video and remake it. Someone will watch that video, go out and buy cement and one day it will explode on them. That's an extremely dangerous way to make a furnace.
  
   
  
  
• Electricity and water. You can easily make your videos a whole lot safer just by distancing your water source from the electrical components with something like this for your Dremel. Pretty much apply this methodology to anything that involves electricity and water. The farther your motor and 120v input is to the water source, the better. You can make a quick plexiglass cover to help seperate it, make an extension shaft so the cutting wheel is further distanced and always wear heavy duty, insulated rubber gloves.. Hell you could even make your own retrofit abrasive water cutter with simple motor and pulley system. Matthais Wandel has a great belt sander build that wouldn't be hard at all to make your own water/abrasive wheel setup.
  
  The way you set up that cuttoff wheel.... smh. Please don't do that. Also I'm sure you already read the comments but there are times when to wear gloves and when not to wear gloves. You need to use a vice or clamp any time you can if it means avoiding using gloves when using a high-speed cutter of any kind. Especially if it's a wheel. Again, it only takes once.
  
   
  
  
• General safety. You should really read every single MSDS sheet you get on anything you buy retail or salvage. I've seen you light stuff on fire with zero respiration protection or use things that should have been done on a downdraft table or you were wearing improper clothing. Some of the stuff you work with can really fuck you up and you blatantly did not know of it's harmfulness or willfully disregarded it.
  
   
  
  Overall man I like your videos but in my opinion of everyone DIY'er i watch on youtube, you are hands down the lease safe. I usually spot something you did wrong in every video you post. Whether you feel responsible for your viewers and what they do with the information you give them, is up to you. I just figured I'd give you some pragmatic advice from someone who does this stuff for a living. I actually did a few youtube videos about 6 years ago on my Channel over industrial level green sand. I'm planning on quitting my job within the next mont or two to start my own workshop/foundry/DIY/Youtube/website marketing thing from scratch. Let me know if you have any questions and I'll gladly answer them.
  
  Here's some random tips;
  
  
  Don't use pop can metal for anything structural. It's 3000's series aluminum and it's mades specifically to be malleable. Good rule of thumb for scrap metal is, if it came from something cheap, the metals cheap. The highest quality aluminum you can get for CASTING is automotive parts. Typically made from A356-T6, very good aluminum. I see a lot of guys metal down "Aircraft" or "Aerospace grade" aluminum for casting thinking it's going to be strong. It will not be, 6000 or 7000 series aluminum is all wrought/worked aluminum. It gets it's strength from massive presses that squeeze the metal into shape. Once you heat it up it looses all that strength.
  
  T6 heat treat is the most common treat process for aluminum. If you are making something structural, heat treatment will greatly increase it's strength. But you have to use the correct aluminum for or it can't be treated (Automotive parts/A356). The process is usually 8hrs at 800-1000F then either a quench/2hrs at 300F or age hardening. With that K type thermometer you can easily set up your furnace to heat treat. Also, most aluminum age hardens once poured, usually around 21 days.
  
  Please never wear shorts ever again when working with molten metal. It's not that it will burn your leg. It's that it will hit your leg, then fall into you shoe. Then you have a burning foot and a ladle of molten metal in your hand. I've done this with high top boots and jeans on. My father would fire my on the spot if he ever saw me pouring with shorts on. I saw a guy poure about 2lbs of aluminum into his boot once. 6 years later his still on disability. Please don't ever do it again.
  
  
  Random informational videos
  
  Metallugical nature of Aluminum and crystalizing structures
  
  Grain Structure of Metal
  
  Cold work vs Hot work metal. E.I. this is wrought metal like 3000, 6000 & 7000 series aluminum
  
  Cermaic Material for Furnace Insulation
  

WEN 2305 Rotary Tool Kit with Flex Shaft https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BYRFH8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JhLbBbSFQ2VMG I got this one for 20 bucks and it works perfectly.

Do you have any recommendations on sets or brands for a hack saw and set of files? I was looking at a 8" bastard file but then I saw a 3 set where one is round, one flat, one curved. Also I do need a hacksaw that can cut metal rods the size of a pencil. That would be a lot cheaper than $100+ on a dremel. If I got any rotary tool it would probably just be the $20 Wen I'm going to try only because it's so cheap and maybe I'll get lucky and it will work well enough - https://www.amazon.com/WEN-2305-Rotary-Tool-Shaft/dp/B003BYRFH8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1525717920&sr=8-3&keywords=wen+tool

Yeah, I've done this on a few pieces with a crap rotary tool I bought off of Amazon. Works pretty darn well actually.

This one actually... I say crap because it is pretty cheap but it has actually worked just as well if not better than my wife's Dremel.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BYRFH8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Totally feel ya, these are some very soft screws. It sucks to have to do this but if you've exhausted the top three tricks for getting screws out you might have to dremel them out with a cutting disk.

​

I bought $30 worth of tools and screws to do this and it's easy if you have steady hands, like the kind you get from handling tiny screws for a day ;) . Just cut a slot straight across the screw and then use a slotted (flat) screwdriver to take it out. I had to do a little damage to get a deep enough cut on the screw - here's the result with new screw - https://imgur.com/pqDU519

​

This is all I used

Rotary Tool - This came with cut-off disks that worked on the stripped soft screws.

Screws - These replacement screws had all 3 of the right sizes for my XPS 15 9570, I suspect they will fit the XPS 13 but please check first. These screws are Phillips head and none have stripped on me in the last year.

Personally I ordered this one and it's been fine. Granted I am not using the tool a great deal.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BYRFH8

I bought a cheapo Wen off of Amazon. For the price of a Dremel^^TM accessory kit, I get a whole tool, accessories, and flex shaft (the accessories were so-so, but with the money I saved I was able to buy other fittings for it)... For what I need a rotary tool for, this one fits perfect. I've used many Dremel^^TM brand tools before, and this one is just as good.

Here's the thing with rotary tools tho, they're light duty. They're great for small/odd jobs, but if you're doing anything more than a few minutes work, an air die grinder and/or cut off wheel will be about 1000x better.

What do you need a rotary tool for?

A foam dispenser for the shower.

You should have one too.

Also Work Sharp WSKTS Knife and Tool Sharpener

Not sure what your budget is, but a work sharp is a great way to keep your swords nice and sharp.

So after seeing this I started looking into how to refinish the edge on a knife I've had since I was like 10 and came across a video of a guy using this

http://www.amazon.com/Work-Sharp-WSKTS-Knife-Sharpener/dp/B003IT5F14

Looks super easy to use. Would that work for you?

While I enjoy my set of lansky stones, they also take a while to use on knives. Seriously considering something like this sharpener. I have heard it works great on lawnmower blades and other larger objects that would take forever with lansky stones. The lansky's are great for beginners wanting to learn how to feel an edge and get great results without messing up a blade.

Another vote here for the Work Sharp. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003IT5F14


I use this on my Wusthof knives and they'll shave hair after I've sharpened them with this.

I use a worksharp to sharpen all my knives. It works great. If you get one, be aware there is a learning curve. It's a high speed rotary tool so it's real easy to hog off more steel than you want if you're not paying attention. Once you get the hang of it, the guide cartridges make it super simple to maintain a consistent bevel angle.

The only advice I really have it just take your time. Also, I tried to make sure I had all the materials that I needed before I got started. While making this knife it helped me to have my tablet with a video of whatever step I was on for a quick reference along with some pictures of what you are wanting your final product to look like so you don't have to search every time you come back from a break. This little tool also helped me out a lot and made sanding the blade and the scales much easier http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003IT5F14/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And I too have looked into getting either lanky deluxe system or sharpmaker. But I recently saw this and wondered if anyone had any experience with it? It's a .Work Sharp Knife and Tool Sharpener.. It has good reviews on Amazon. .. http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/81SyzNgsB7L._SL1500_.jpg
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003IT5F14

I found two listings on amazon but they both look identical (one is more expensive). Are either of these the ones you're referring to?

https://www.amazon.ca/Dremel-7300-N-MiniMite-4-8-Volt-Two-Speed/dp/B003TU0XFU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511544818&sr=8-1&keywords=dremel+7300-pt+4.8v+pet+nail+grooming+tool

https://www.amazon.ca/Dremel-7300-PT-Nail-Grooming-Kit/dp/B003TU0XG4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1511544818&sr=8-2&keywords=dremel+7300-pt+4.8v+pet+nail+grooming+tool

My co-worker has this one: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TU0XFU/
It works really well, but I'm not sure how long she's had it. I have the one from your link and my battery no longer holds a charge. Useless.

Do you think this would be powerful enough? https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-7300-N-MiniMite-4-8-Volt-Two-Speed/dp/B003TU0XFU/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1466142528&sr=8-4&keywords=dremel

Is this good enough to cut tubing? All I'm getting is dog grooming comments lol

https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-7300-N-MiniMite-4-8-Volt-Two-Speed/dp/B003TU0XFU/ref=sr_1_5?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1517442945&sr=1-5&keywords=dremel

Here's what I have: A non-pet specific Dremel with two speeds.

Dremel 7300-N/8 MiniMite 4.8-Volt Cordless Two-Speed Rotary Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TU0XFU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_c-pXBbYTSENXG

Something like this? https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-7300-N-MiniMite-4-8-Volt-Two-Speed/dp/B003TU0XFU/ref=pd_aw_lpo_469_bs_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=HHYW4TGC2AZQBSSFZQFG?

Get yourself a small Dremel: http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-7300-N-MiniMite-4-8-Volt-Two-Speed/dp/B003TU0XFU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1373437623&sr=8-3&keywords=cordless+dremel

Insert a thin dowel like a toothpick or cocktail stir into the Dremel head, then wrap some masking tape around the dowel such that the tacky side faces out.

Fit a bead snugly onto the tape. Now sand the nubs down by running the Dremel and holding the bead as it spins against some sand paper affixed to a firm surface (or use a sanding stick: http://www.amazon.com/Squadron-Products-Sanding-Stick-Coarse/dp/B000CDM4OU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1373437785&sr=8-2&keywords=squadron+sanding+stick). Keep the sanding surface wet to carry away the dust.

You can use finer and finer grits to polish the beads to a shine.

I used this technique on my MG Marasai. This is a really quick way to sand those tiny things and it will make them buttery smooth. If you do this right, there will be no stress mark where the nub used to be.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003TU0XFU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485328266&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=dremel+minimite&dpPl=1&dpID=41pjRg6Q9LL&ref=plSrch


If you cut a dog's nails instead of filling, you risk hitting the quick (which not only bleeds, but hurts like hell and makes the dog HATE having his nails done afterwards...) but also risks cracking and splitting of the nail.
I use a Dremel, and grind the nails down. Not only do the dogs hate it much less, but you get nice round tips instead of sharp edges. No chance of cutting too short, and no risk of cracking nails.
Even better, these tools are inexpensive, easy for beginners, and well made. I've been using the same one for years now! Sanding tips are super cheap and easy to replace, too.
Good luck!

Here's what I use, I think it was originally meant as a dog nail file. The small metal bit is similar to what I used here.

DEWALT DWP611PK 1.25 HP Max Torque Variable Speed Compact Router Combo Kit with LED's

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0049ZFUK2/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=7D56CMDZX75Z&coliid=I1UOVUHDTJ2VIN&psc=1

If it is his first router, I would recommend getting the DeWalt 611PK kit. It is a compact router, but it is pretty powerful for its size. I bought the Bosch recommended in another comment as my first router, and looking back, I wish I had purchased the DeWalt first. I find myself using the smaller router far more than the bigger one. Plus, the entire kit is around $160, so you have plenty of money to get a MCLS bit set and still be way under budget.

Just my 2 cents.

So I don’t really know much about this router BUT if this is your first router and you want a good one to use for small to large projects I HIGHLY recommend this one. This was my first and I use it for EVERYTHING and for the price it’s the best router on the market IMO.

DEWALT DWP611PK 1.25 HP Max Torque Variable Speed Compact Router Combo Kit with LED's https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049ZFUK2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3jyACbQW32Y0R

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWP611PK-Torque-Variable-Compact/dp/B0049ZFUK2/ref=sr_1_1?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1480055730&sr=1-1&keywords=dewalt+router

This is the one I bought. Super happy with it. I mounted it upside down on a table and turned it into a table router. works great.

Ultimately if you get serious into woodworking you are going to end up with several routers, a 3+ HP router table, at ~3 HP handheld, a 1.25 HP handheld, and a trim router. It all comes down to what you are doing with them. The router table is your work horse that you use for 90% of tasks, except for the few operations you can't do. The big routers are unwieldy to handle so you really have to make sure they are well supported and stable or then can get away from you. For larger bits you need the 1/2" shank and the extra power they provide but for smaller work you give up control and it's a nuance to use them. For those sorts of projects a smaller 1.25 HP compact router is the better option. You can't use the larger bits up much easier/safer the handle and more control. They use a 1/4" shank. For really fine work that you want to do free hand, say routing out waste for inlay, the trim router is what you want.

You want definitely want a plunge router. That allows you to start/stop in the middle of a piece by plunging down into it. I don't know that I've ever bothered to switch a router to fixed base. Variable speed control is also a must, you will get a much better cut if you have the correct speed for the bit/material you are working with. As far as as shank size you generally want 1/2" as it's safer, so if there is an option between 1/4" and 1/2" for that bit you'd usually go for the the 1/2". A lot of the smaller bits are 1/4" only, larger 1/2". You can use a 1/4" shank bit in a 1/2" router but not the other way around. So keep what bits you need in mind when you pick a router. Another important aspect is the router bits you use. Cheap bits are not worth it. A lot of people will say buy a cheap set then upgrade the ones you use regularly. I did that, not a great idea. The quality of the cut is poor and they don't feel safe. Do you want a cheap made in China bit spinning at a high RPM in a tool you are holding? No thanks! I get 1000% better results from good bits, smooth cuts and no issues.

For the sound of what you want to do I'd suggest a smaller compact router to start (then a router table /w dedicated 3+hp router motor). I like this one:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049ZFUK2/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3MF02H72ZOHDJ&coliid=I2UIP99Y0DK7X9

As far a bits go my top choice is Whiteside. The Freud quadra cuts (larger 4 winged bits) are super nice as well. There are several other good brands out there too though. I'd buy bits on an as needed basis as they are expensive for good ones.

They're not that bad to be honest.

Adding something like this would be good too :).

Ow that's awesome!

Happy birthday already!

Great to hear that the RAM will be used! That really makes me happy.

I've seen your updated OP and my god, I get way too jealous, haha! This is going to be an amazing PC.

---

Watercooling

---

I have been looking at it in depth. You don't want to go with the 480mm in the top & 240mm in the bottom setup?
Here is a double 480mm build. Which does look pretty awesome as well.
Here is an other double 480mm build. This one is a bit messy, but just to show you how it will "look".

I would advise to buy the pretty expensive but probably very good & awesome looking window from MNPC tech.
I've send them a mail to question if a 480mm radiator will still fit in the bottom. I am very sure, but not entirely.
Just got a reply from MNPC tech and the 480mm radiator will fit no problem.

---

As for the tubing, you mentioned that you want hard tubes. Would you perhaps like the extra step to go with glass?
The benefit of glass is that it's very scratch resistant & it stays very clear. It's also not that hard to "cut" but you need to take your time for it. It will take a full weekend for sure to completely watercool it. Or I would say, 2 days at least.
Here is a video that explains on how to cut glass tubes. But it also shows you and explains why you would perhaps want glass tubes.
As you can see at 3:23 the soft tubing got pretty damn clouded. I don't know how long this took, but I guess about a year+ for sure. Probably 2 years, not entirely sure.

When you do go for glass, it's recommended to actually set up the whole loop in plastic first. To get the exact lengths, since you can cut plastic a lot easier than glass. Then you can use the plastic parts as templates for the glass. This will cost you an other $50 extra, but it's mostly going to cost you time.
I will put the plastic in the list.

It's actually great that you'll get the case soon, because then you can measure up a lot of things that I need to know. So I can suggest the right parts! So be ready with a measuring tape.

---

GTX1080s, cables & monitors

---

GTX1080s:

Yes, getting 2 GTX1080s is going to be "rough". They sell out in a snap, so I highly recommend to make an account at this website:
https://www.nowinstock.net/computers/videocards/nvidia/gtx1080
Then you can get an email / SMS text notification for when parts come back in stock, so that you can order it very quickly. It sells out in less than 2 hours the last time a card came into the store on Amazon.
You can buy any "founders edition" card from any brand really. But EVGA & Asus are 2 that keep the warranty even when you put waterblocks on them. So I prefer those 2 brands, maybe MSI, Gigabyte, Zotac & other brands started to also keep the warranty if you put their cards under water. But I am not sure about that.
I highly recommend to be very careful about all the screws when you put on the waterblock. Just in case you have to send the card back for RMA. You need to have all the screws & the cooler.

Cables:

You have to tell me which color combination you would prefer. They have a lot of options from CableMods.

• Black / Blood Red
  
• Black / Blood Red / White
  
• Black / Blood Red / Silver
  
• Black / White
  
• Red / White
  
• Red
  
• Black
  
• White
  
  Then I have a better idea on how to pick out the colors for the rest of the components.
  
  

  Monitors:
  

  
  Ow yes, the monitors! I assume that you probably would prefer to have the same monitors all around? That would of course shoot your budget into the roof. If you do go for the Acer 1440p, 165Hz gaming monitor of $759. The LG 4K monitor that I recommended got a very sleek design as well, but it of course is a bit different compared to the Acer 1440p monitor.
  
  

  Other parts:
  

  
  I hope that you didn't buy that CPU for $549.99? But anyway, you want to buy a cheap after-market air cooler as well. Since the i7-6700K does not come with a cooler on it's own.
  You need this to test the system, before you put it under water, you have to make sure it works on air. Including a stress test for about 2-12 hours. Whatever you prefer. I generally let it stress test for 1 night. Which is about 8-10 hours.
  
  I will post my list with all the parts later tonight. I hope, but I have to tell you, that you should not order it right away. We have to do some measurements first!
  
  

  Measurements:
  

  
  I will make a paint drawing to show you exactly what I need to know in terms of all the measurements.
  
  

  Tools:
  

  
  I've also looked at some tools that you need to build the PC and to watercool it. But I have to ask you if you have certain tools already.
  There may be some other products I am forgetting about right now. Excuse me if I do!
  
  Item|Price
  :----|:----
  Magnetic screwdriver set | $20
  Set of files | $15
  Handsaw | $13
  Electronic drill | $50
  1/8" to 5/8" adapter chunk | $20
  Velcro straps | $8
  Anti static wrist strap | $5
  
  Working on the whole list now (again).
  
  ---
  
  

  Again, if you have any questions. Feel free to ask!
  

  
  
  
  
  

I have a cordless Black & Decker. I like it mainly because I have a leaf blower and hedge trimmer that use the same battery so I have spares when needed.

Well actually... probably not, at least with my experience using a dremel. My little hand drill works so well because it’s got really great precision on the RPM control just by being really careful with the trigger. I can get great real-time speed control, which is pretty critical. Maybe there’s some other dremel or accessory that I haven’t seen, but in my dremel the speed can only be adjusted with a clunky wheel, and even then, the slowest RPM is too fast. Also, you’d need to get some sort of annoying adapter to actual fit a small enough bit into a dremel...

I really only use the dremel for ‘carving’ type things... it’s just not delicate enough

EDIT: I think that This is the drill I have. It's honestly fantastic.

If you only plan on using it occasionally I'd go with a black and decker, I bought one (https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-LDX120C-Lithium-Ion-Cordless/dp/B005NNF0YU) a year ago and it's perfect general homeowner use.

I need a mandrel and a 3 1/8 hole cutter that can work with this drill https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-LDX120C-Lithium-Ion-Cordless/dp/B005NNF0YU/ref=sr_1_1?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1501613771&sr=1-1&keywords=black+and+decker+drill

Here's a good square: https://www.amazon.com/Swanson-S0101CB-Square-Layout-Combination/dp/B00SOVRPXW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1504672358&sr=8-2&keywords=swanson+square

Black and Decker isn't currently known for being a great brand, but they have some great prices on cordless tools.
This black and decker cordless drill is a great bang for the low asking price: https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-LDX120C-Lithium-Ion-Cordless/dp/B005NNF0YU/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1504672428&sr=1-4&keywords=drill
The combo with the circular saw is pretty damn good. If you don't need to cut curves, I would pick a circular saw instead of a jigsaw.

Black and decker also sells a cordless jigsaw: https://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-BDCJS20B-Lithium-Jigsaw/dp/B019OF6T38/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1504673042&sr=1-2&keywords=black+and+decker+jigsaw

The Harbor freight aluminum bar clamps are fantastic for clamping larger pieces together, and the smaller steel bar clamps are also fantastic for everything else. You can go with pipe clamps, that will cost slightly more than the aluminum bar clamps, but they will work significantly better.

Something like this

Most practical is this rotary tool set. I'd have a lot of uses for it, but it'll primary be for cosplay.

Least practical? I'm not really sure, I probably don't have as many items as the average user, and I try to only add items that have a purpose. This hat was the least practical, because I wouldn't often wear it, so I took it off the list.

If you are willing to spend some money to fix this I would recommend getting this: http://www.amazon.com/WEN-2307-Variable-100-Piece-Accessories/dp/B00A8DXKXS/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1413690107&sr=1-1&keywords=wen+2307

At $20 it's a steal. IMO

I have one and it has held up well. It's a handy tool to have around the house. You could even drill out bigger air holes with it. I use it fairly regularly to sharpen teeth on some of my work tools and have no complaints.

I’m very new to growing and building buckets (just started to put my first one together), but for cutting holes in the bins I bought this cheap little dremel tool. It’s definitely not the greatest (and I broke 2 bits trying to figure out the best one to use) but I was able to cut almost perfectly circular holes without too much trouble!

Edit: oops, sorry didn’t see the part about UK links, but if you’re interested perhaps there is a UK equivalent product.

Kevin is upset because he needs a pedicure.

Seriously, trim those toenails. I use one of these on my pitties. You won't be able to do much at first but you can gradually file them down once a week until they're nice and short.

Maybe a dremel, or really any rotary tool. Found a really cheap on on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/WEN-2307-Variable-100-Piece-Accessories/dp/B00A8DXKXS/

It probably sucks but if it's just for this 1 little job that might be fine.

Best solution is probably to buy a cheap rotary tool and make your own. I think I paid $3 for a spark plug socket from harbor freight and it took about 10 min with a dremel to cut it up.

Amazon has a cheap rotary tool for $18 here

Still cheaper than buying a premade socket and you can probably find other uses for the rotary tool.

You will want a socket handy anyway, unless you are planning on converting them to ball lock right away. I take mine apart between each batch to clean everything.

If you aren't comfortable with trying to make your own I'd be willing to make one and send it to you if you cover the cost of the socket and shipping.

I say file a hole, if you have a Dremel (tm) or similar rotary tool.

Dremel-like tools can be had for less money than a single one of my 2204 motors. Do yourself a favor and get one cause that tool is really really useful.

Also, ignore the idiots who think that a knockoff is somehow bad. I mean, if you made your living dremeling shit (is that a job? I want it) maybe you need high quality gear, but get the tool that works now and enjoy your awesome motors.

You can get a relatively cheap tool kit like this (can't vouch for this kit, just an example) and it is easy to store and has most of what you might need for most small projects.

Along with that I would say that a drill (I have this one, it's great) with a bit set. With those things you can probably do most of what you would need in a home.

You can also get saws and stuff but those are less necessary unless you are trying to get into home improvement and renovation type stuff. The drill and tool kit will do you fine for typical home repair and such.

A good cordless drill should not be skimped on. Cheap versions like ryobi, harbor freight, etc have terrible battery technology, and the things don't make it past a few charge cycles. Buddy of mine bought a ryobi cordless tool set, what a pile of junk. He only did one small shelving install with it and it wouldn't take a full charge.

Things to not skimp on:

• cordless drill. It's hard to beat this Dewalt 20V with two batteries for $99
  
  
• Multi-bit screwdriver.
  
  
• 8" adjustable wrench
  
  
• groove lock pliers
  
  
• Magnetic Stud Finder
  
  
• Hacksaw
  
  All of the above will cost about $150, should be enough for most home repairs, and will last a lifetime (Well, the Drill will last ~10 years or so, no battery powered thing is BIFL).
  
  
  Avoid these brands:
  
  black and decker
  
  Ryobi
  
  Craftsman
  
  
  These brands tend to make quality tools:
  
  Dewalt
  
  Makita
  
  Milwaukee
  
  Bosch
  
  Porter Cable
  
  Hitachi

Hello, complete noob looking for advice, i am looking up put some screws into my cement ceiling to install a curtain pole. Im on the fence looking to buy a power drill. I saw this product on amazon, its called Dewalts Dcd771c2 20v Anyone know if this product will be strong enough to get the job done?

I recommend this for making them open-backed.

My husband just got this one. He was very choosy, wanted it to be 1/2", cordless, keyless, variable speed, a certain amount of power, good brand, etc. - on the same budget. :) He never likes B&D.

Here's some essentials that I recommend picking up. They're all a bit pricey, but it's better to buy one pricey set and never buy another than buy ten cheap sets.

Screwdrivers: https://www.amazon.com/Wera-Kraftform-Screwdriver-Lasertip-6-Pieces/dp/B007NLPJN2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501608941&sr=8-1&keywords=wera+6-piece+screwdriver+set

Pliers: https://www.amazon.com/Tools-9K-00-80-Combination/dp/B00KBCM456/ref=sr_1_9?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1501609025&sr=1-9&keywords=knipex

Drill/Driver: https://www.amazon.com/Makita-XPH102-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-Driver-Drill/dp/B01L84A470/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1501609078&sr=1-2&keywords=makita+drill or https://www.amazon.com/Dewalt-DCD771C2-Cordless-Lithium-Ion-Compact/dp/B00ET5VMTU/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1501609100&sr=1-1&keywords=dewalt+drill

I got this one and its been mediocre. I was using a 1/2 inch spade bit to drill through about 1 inch of wood flooring and it simply couldn't handle it.

I thought an AC drill would deliver a lot more power.

But according to the above comment both the drill I put in the OP are shit so I'm open to any suggestions!

2" travel, half the price, good reviews: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HQONFVE/

(I just got this one but haven't yet unpacked it, so can't speak to if it's actually any good.)

step bit usually does a good job, you could also get a drill press if like this one.

This small bandsaw has been as low as $60, according to camelcamelcamel.

https://www.amazon.com/POWERTEC-BS900-Band-Saw-9-Inch/dp/B00367WB0G

Powertec is identical to Ryobi, FWIW. the parts are interchangeable, even.

I priced the list out at < 1k. Given that the table saw is as cheap as you can buy one, I don't think the rest of the tools were quality.

Edit: Here's a drill press under $80, too. https://www.amazon.com/WEN-4208-8-Inch-Speed-Drill/dp/B00HQONFVE/

what else would i need to add to these tools

Tools needed


Drill press

http://www.amazon.com/WEN-4208-8-Inch-Speed-Drill/dp/B00HQONFVE/ref=sr_1_1?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1422478362&sr=1-1

80$


Angle Grinder

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-4-1-2-in-Angle-Grinder-9557NB/202105761

70$

Cutoff wheel and flap wheel

10$

cabinet makers rasp
http://www.amazon.com/Nicholson-Half-Round-American-Pattern-Length/dp/B006P2X4Q4/ref=sr_1_4?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1422479106&sr=1-4&keywords=cabinet+rasp

20$

bench vise

30$


also from what i understand when I am making the blade do I just grind it so it is thing and sharp at the bottom and thicker on the top??

I did use a drill press. And even then not all the holes lined up perfectly. I be to do some fine tweeks at the end. I'd say either find a buddy with a drill press or save up and buy one. Some aren't all that expensive. Drill presses come in handy. Good luck with you build. This Or This

How does this sound.
HF duct collector and a wen air cleaner to get the air born dust.
Maybe someday I can exhaust the dust outside? Is there an easy way to do that with the HF system? I have an unused central vac vent closeby.

For what it's worth, something like this is what should be installed, depending on the size of the space.

Otherwise, I like the box fan and furnace filter option for cost efficiency.

As long as the rack/cabinet is grounded, then you should be able to vacuum right up to the rack/cabinet.
Just don't the vacuum inside the equipment where it can discharge directly to the electronics. If everything is closed and racked, then the electronics should be isolated from the case and the case should ground any static.
Plus server rooms should be between 40% and 60% humidity to keep static down in the first place.

you can also get dust filters to keep the dust down. either buy one,
https://www.amazon.com/WEN-3410-3-Speed-Remote-Controlled-Filtration/dp/B00LPD9BDI/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1493922318&sr=8-5&keywords=dust+filter
or build one with a box fan,
http://tombuildsstuff.blogspot.com/2013/06/better-box-fan-air-purifier.html

Do you guys have any recommendations for Air Filtration Systems as DIYers? Not in the shop every day, maybe 5/7 days but maybe max 3 hours, usually 1-2 hours. I have the dust collection at the source and dust masks but not the 'proper' air filtration system. Just 2 'household' air filters.

My lungs are already crap at 21 due to chronic exposure to 2nd hand smoke - at this point I'll be signing a death/cancer warrant.

​

I was looking units like these:

https://www.amazon.ca/WEN-3410-3-Speed-Remote-Controlled-Filtration/dp/B00LPD9BDI/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&srs=11968096011&ie=UTF8&qid=1550890807&sr=1-1

https://www.kmstools.com/magnum-industrial-air-cleaner-dust-filtration-system-152165

I use the Oneida Cyclone on a 5gal bucket.


For a standalone, you could go cheap: http://imgur.com/a/qzjIa



Or this: http://www.amazon.com/WEN-3410-3-Speed-Remote-Controlled-Filtration/dp/B00LPD9BDI/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1458061256&sr=1-2&keywords=shop+air+filter

Neither is mine, but those could scrub the air well enough to help keep dust contained to that room and help clean it up during/after work. The big dust is messy, but the small dust is the health concern.

That's an informative link. Thanks. The rig shown may not be technically a cyclone, and I apologize if I misspoke. It's this. Nonetheless, as chips and dust are forced by the impeller into the unit, they are forced along a curved ramp. The heavier ones drop out and the rest are dealt with by this pleated canister filter. Despite Harbor Freight's sometimes very sketchy quality reputation, this thing has been humming along for close to twenty years, and in conjunction with an air cleaner , has kept my shop reasonably dust free and has been totally trouble free.

I'm not a full time production shop, but a remodeler, so this has met my needs nicely.

Used for woodworking WEN 3410 3-Speed Remote-Controlled Air Filtration System (300/350/400 CFM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LPD9BDI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_QNS5Bb13AA9GY

Wen Air Filter

You’ll still have lots of airborne dust. Might want to look into getting an air filter of sorts.

I got the smaller WEN air filter about a week ago, I'm in a similar situation to you (mother-in-law lives in an upstairs apartment above my shop). It's quieter than my window shaker AC and does a really good job of keeping dust contained:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LPD9BDI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

New enclosure and air filtration system in place. Now waiting for the new Mini to ship from Prusa.

https://i.imgur.com/dsFavT4.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/xLjPEmd.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/hA2t04g.jpg

Air filtration:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LPD9BDI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks, been checking their web page. A mix or wood metal and whatever. I just ordered this for now https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LPD9BDI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

At least as a start, I currently work in my garage with a shop vac.

I have the upgraded version of this (ken onion edition): WORK SHARP WSKTS-I I The New Way to Sharpen, 110 V, Black, One Size https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003IT5F14/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WMRQCbT9QCQSB

It’s pretty foolproof for getting a great edge on almost any knife. It does remove A LOT of metal on the lower grit bands though so you need to use it sparingly. The plus side to this is that if a blade is chipped or damaged, it makes doing repair work easier and faster.

I use water stones on my kitchen knifes because the work sharp can scuff up certain blades and water stones give you more control, but all my tools (axe heads, lawnmower blades, etc) plus my outdoor knives are sharpened with the work sharp. I do think the “ken onion edition” is worth the upgrade, but I didn’t link it because it was slightly out of your posted price range.

> for free

I believe you mean for $5?

My girlfriend got me a Work Sharp knife sharpener for Christmas, and I've been able to keep my blade as sharp as the day I bought it, if not sharper!

I wanted to buy a hand tool, but I couldn't see the logic in doing so when I could get a powered router for the same price.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049ZFUK2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I was debating on this one and the makita that i saw was recommended. But this one ended up being cheaper on prime day.

Edit: I have never used one of these things. What kind of bits are ideal for woodworking?

I'm finding some cheap stuff on Amazon right now, that's why I assumed that I'd be able to get all of this for under $100... For example: https://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-WP900-6-Inch-Polisher/dp/B000077CPT/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1499722759&sr=8-2&keywords=polisher

Thanks for the advice on the wiki though :)

Go for a "pancake" or "hot dog" style. They are sufficient for airing up tires and occasional tool use.

Pancake style

HotDog style

Also, in my experience, electric paint rollers are much less hassle for housepaint. Less clogging and easier cleanup.

I would skip the Harbor Freight tools. If you want a miter saw, you can go with the Hitachi C10FCE2 for $130 new Amazon or $117 from Amazon Warehouse. Or you can get the C10FCH2 for $170 new or $140 Amazon Warehouse.

If you can wait a little bit, you can find the C10FCE2 on sale for $100. I bought mine for that price at Lowes in the middle of June. Amazon had it for the same price at the time.

Of the miter saws you have I would go with the Ryobi 10"; it is better quality than the Harbor Freight tools even if it is not the best quality.

This polisher? I remember reading some time ago that there was some mod people were doing with this one and the power switch or something and that the newer model wasn't able to do this?

Also, because it has variable speed - what is a good speed to work with?

I found this and this. Any input on these?

Dewalt DCD771C2 20V MAX Cordless Lithium-Ion 1/2 inch Compact Drill Driver Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ET5VMTU/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_MDpsyb1JK2N5H

If you have $6,000 for Invisalign you (probably) have $39 for a Dremel.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002BACCDA

It made a world of difference for me. Good luck!