I have a little different take on this. What you want is a Bosch 12V combo kit. It has both a drill/driver as well as an impact driver. They share batteries and a charger:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005GT0IWK/ref=psdc_552734_t1_B0046ZRYPE

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0046ZRYPE/ref=psdc_552734_t1_B005GT0IWK

These are perfect for around the house. I use them almost exclusively for work, too. Incredibly powerful for their size, and I can't stress enough how useful an impact driver is.

Amazon sells a nicer black and decker for only $30 http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-RTX-B-3-Speed-Rotary/dp/B000MUSLCC

Less attachments, but I used one for ~5 years before I lost it

Bosch Jigsaw

http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-JS470E-120-Volt-7-0-Amp-Top-Handle/dp/B004323NPK/

MORE POWER!!!

PORTER-CABLE PCFP02003 3.5-Gallon 135 PSI Pancake Compressor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BMUGQNC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_0FgIwbNPNTZVY

If you already have invested in a brand of cordless tools looks for whatever your brand offers, most higher-end brands usually are pretty comparable these days.

I've used the milwaukee m18 impact for a while and I've had much better luck with it than I've had with air tools on a too small compressor. A quick search shows Dewalt and Makita both have equivalents that are probably quite good as well.

http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-Instruments-500-Screwdriver/dp/B002XZLTQO/

I can personally vouch for this product. The bits aren't standard (or at least I can't put in my other precision manual set bits into it) but it's really a hand saver when it comes to tinkering around a lot in small electronics.

Instead of getting a big, loud, expensive air compressor that you have to start up and wait for pressure to build, and have to drag it/its hoses around your garage, just get a cordless electric impact wrench. In fact pretty much all air tools have better electric versions now. I have one of these and I have used it for giant suspension and brake caliper bolts and spun them all off instantly: https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCF899B-Brushless-Torque-Impact/dp/B00WJA1J68

I hear the Milwaukee 1/2" one is great and everybody recommends it for a little more money.

I've got a a Bosch random orbital sander and I've been really pleased with it. I did a table for my child out of palletwood and it worked as advertised and took mall the weathering off each board in a couple minutes (w/ 40 grit sand paper).

I also have this piece of shit. The worst part is that the belt sand paper keeps wanting to wander off the tool, so you have to keep stopping and push it back on to the sander. Eventually the sand paper just disintegrates into a nasty mess because the inner edge of the paper will touch the tool while it operates. That and it feels like a flimsy piece of crap.

Anyway,

FEELTHESMOOTHNESS

Here are the basics, I will edit if I think of any more essential tools, but you can go an awfully long way with these.

Hand Tools:

• Hand saw- I prefer Japanese style pull saws, meaning they cut on the pull stroke. My go to utility saw is a Vaughn bear saw, which is a robust package, with several types of interchangeable blades. There are countless types of saws, for different uses, but a fine toothed Japanese saw will get you by for most things.
  
  
• Combination square- A sliding ruler square, perfect for marking and layout. you will also want a speed square eventually, so you might as well get one.
  
  
• Tape measure- Start with a basic 25' tape, and get more as needed.
  
  
• Basic chisel set- Most of the entry grade chisels are pretty much the same, this Irwin set is a pretty good buy. to start with a set of 1/4", 1/2", and 1" are all you really need, but you can never have enough chisels.
  
  
• Block plane- A low angle block plane will get you a long ways breaking corners and trimming pieces. Stanley makes a great, affordable, option. As time goes by you will need a jack plane, but a block plane will do for now.
  
  
• Sharpening equipment- A fine diamond stone like this will get you a long way keeping your chisels and plane sharp. You should do research into sharpening methods as you use your tools more, and build a system that fits you.
  
  
• Hammer- A cheap smooth face hammer. Build a wooden mallet as a starter project.
  
  
• Clamps- You always need more clamps. Big clamps. Small clamps. Weird clamps. I like bar clamps. Harbour Freight has good deals on fair clamps, but don't expect too much out of them. To start with get a couple with ~8" throat, and a couple with ~18" throat.
  
  Power Tools:
  
  
• Cordless drill- If you're willing to spend the money for a good, reliable, tool I recommend Makita, but a Ryobi or Rigid will serve you well if you're just working on small projects. Everyone has their favourite cordless tool brand, and, for the most part, it really is just preference. I highly recommend adding an impact driver and circular saw to whichever system you choose.
  
  
• Circular Saw- If you want to work with plywood or larger sticks, you will want a circular saw, which is the most basic power saw. Most of the major tool companies make fine starter saws, Skil is the original, and is quite cheap, but there are plenty of others, browse a store and see what takes your fancy.
  
  
• Jig saw- A jig saw is used for cutting curves, and you will eventually need it if you build enough things. I prefer Bosch but there are cheaper options. See what feels right to you.
  
  
• Miter saw- You don't need this right away, but if you start doing more projects you will want one. I recommend going right to a sliding compound miter saw, like this Dewalt. You will never need more miter saw than that, and if you get a small one you will eventually end up buying a the real deal.
  
  
• Table saw- Again, you don't need this right away, but eventually you will feel you need the precision and ease that a table saw brings. The Rigid portable table saw is a great saw if you're working in tight quarters and need to pack up, but you'll appreciate the appreciate the stability of a cast iron topped cabinet saw if you have the cash and space for it.
  
  Misc:
  
  
• Drill bits- Get a cheap twist drill set that goes from 1/16" to 1/2" and a basic spade bit set. Later you will want a set of forstners and hole saws.
  
  
• Utility knife
  
  
• Driver bits
  

There's a ton of electric compressors

http://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-PCFP02003-3-5-Gallon-Pancake-Compressor/dp/B00BMUGQNC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1457011626&sr=8-3&keywords=electric+compressor

Oh, for cars....

• motherboard tester
  
  
• Power Supply tester
  
  
• Ultimate Boot CD
  
  
• Dr. Web Live CD
  
  
• electric screwdriver
  
  
• package opener
  
  it's hardly relevant, but that last one is there because those plastic packages are annoying and sometimes the thing inside those clamshell packages are used for PC repair, such as a flash drive. it also has a box cutter, a little screwdriver you can use as a backup, and the clippers work really well on zip ties, which can sometimes be useful with PC parts, as wires are sometimes zip tied together.
  
  everything else is basically all you'll need to diagnose and fix any problems you may have with a PC. as long as the PSU connectors and motherboard are working, you can figure out any other hardware failure. Dr. Web will cure almost any viruses you can't kill in safe mode with Malwarebytes, and Ultimate Boot CD has many diagnostic tools that from my experience, can help pinpoint nearly any other issue.
  
  I feel like I've forgotten one of my other diagnostic tools. I might be thinking of my PC Login Now disc and my XP Black CD. but I can't legitimately link you to those. most subreddits frown upon linking to anything even remotely related to piracy. I think I covered everything else.
  
  and depending on how advanced with repair you plan to go, you might want a soldering kit as well, but I doubt you'll do anything on that level. I don't even solder anything, and I plan on doing computer repair for a living.

Something like this but cheaper may be good as well. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002JP315K

Amazon link.

I'm glad to see that the design has barely changed. It is kind of slow and really heavy, but this thing is built like a tank. It has been dropped several times from ladders, paint and water and gas splashed on it, and banged around in the junk drawer for decades.

I realized that not including pictures, mementos, and a few t-shirts, this may be the possession that I have owned the longest.

Can you afford to drop $110 on a proper workspace? If so, buy the following:

• 48" x 24" Folding Table
  
• 2 x Swing Arm Desk Lamp
  
• Power Strip with 6' Cord
  
• Screws
  
• Zip ties
  
  

1. Use a power screwdriver to attach the two lamp bases to the corners of the table.
   
   
2. Photocopy the underside of the power strip. Using this photocopy as a guide, install 2 screws into the underside of the table and then attach the power strip to the underside of the table.
   
   
3. Insert the first lamp into its base and plug it into the power strip. Gather up the excess cord and secure it with a zip tie. Repeat with the second lamp.
   
   
4. Plug the power strip into a wall.
   
   Congratulations, you now have a 4' x 2' workspace with excellent lighting that is easy to disassemble and tuck under your bed or against a wall.
   
   You can store your paints in a lidded box, such as the ones that most GW vehicle models are sold in. When you have more money to invest in a workspace, I recommend picking up a paint organizing system. I personally use The Rack Paint Master with an additional small straight section. This nearly perfectly reaches from one end of the table to the other, leaving a large area in which to paint. The nice thing about the Rack is that it splits apart for easier storage. Still will take up some space, but it's nice if you need to put away your entire workspace.
   
   As you expand your collection of tools, you can add a micro dremel, which is super useful (especially if you have to pin lots of metal models), and you'll already have a place to plug in the charger.

The Dewalt DW735 is my recommendation. I have used many floor model planers including by General, Grizzly, and some others. I have also used several of the bench top models, although not the cheaper Dewalt. Once I tried the DW735 at someone else's workshop, it blew me away. I bought one and have planed many types of wood with mine now including hickory, ash, maple, walnut, zebrawood, purpleheart, bloodwood, birch.

It does extremely well on the difficult woods like zebrawood which actually has grain sticking up both ways. None of the other planers I had tried worked very well on this, I would always get some tearout due to the weird grain pattern.

The other thing I was never able to do on other planers is plane thin pieces, on this I have planed pieces down to 1/8" without having to use another sled underneath (there are tricks you can play with laying the thin piece on another board when putting it through like a sled). I have also planed pieces up to 16/4 thick full width taking off 1/8"+ per pass. You will probably want to bolt it down to something, but I have run 12 foot boards through mine by holding it for the first few feet then going to the other side to hold up the finished end. It is expensive, but mine has absolutely worked like a charm. Also a little heavy for a benchtop, but I can pretty easily lift by myself, and it adds stability for when you do longer boards compared to other benchtops.

A few thing will give you excellent blade life for any planer. I check my wood very carefully for any foreign objects like staples nails etc. I cut 1/4" off both ends of the boards first because boards can stand up in dirty areas and get imbedded with dirt, metal shavings, gravel, etc before you get them or while you store them. Sometimes I wire brush the board surface if it looks dirty. Unless you are using especially knotty wood or plywood, the only real cause of knife nicks is from non-wood debris in the wood you are planing. I run on the slow speed setting even when roughing because the blades are removing less material with each cut (less stress on blade). The blade replacement is super easy on this planer too though for when shit does happen or they get dull.

I literally used a chainsaw on an ash tree and a hickory tree to turn them into boards. Probably a 10" hickory and a 16" diameter ash. Got several 10' sections from each. Cut it up with chainsaw into boards, let them dry, cut 6"-12" off the ends from splitting, then ran them all through this planer. After many other smaller projects and then nearly two entire trees, it was time to change the blades for the first time... definitely a workhorse that was worth what I paid.

The tables in this package are worth it in my opinion because they help reduce snipe. I get none to very little snipe. http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW735X-Two-Speed-Planer-Package/dp/B003OX9KME/

All I can see is bending the hell out of the motor rod on your first real use. Plus that isn't' exactly a powerful motor, so what is this really going to be able to handle? Even their "ready to drill" demonstration what to poke 1/32 in holes.

The fact they used a real drill to make it is even better. Maybe very thin materials in hard to reach places? But even then you can pick up a real one for $10

There's a sale on a 12v Makita drill and impact driver right now for $100. That's honestly probably perfect for what you'd need.

Makita LCT209W 12-Volt Max Lithium-Ion Cordless Combo Kit, Black, 2-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005CQ1RGI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_zw2xzbV68DWX8

Mine come off easily with an impact wrench. Here is mine, which gets a lot of use...

​

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCF899B-Brushless-Torque-Impact/dp/B00WJA1J68

​

And if you remove the fans and radiator there is plenty of room to work. One pull of the trigger and that bolt is spinning.

https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-8050-N-18-Rotary-Accessories/dp/B015DVN4E4/ref=sr_1_12?crid=1GBB19K4MW2HE&keywords=dremel+tool&qid=1572760512&sprefix=dreme%3B%2Caps%2C253&sr=8-12

I love this one. I've used the pet version and hate it.

If you have the space, I highly recommend you buy your own. I have this lil guy and it's great. Small and fairly light weight, but more than enough to fill your tires, run a nail/staple gun, and clean out your garage with a spray nozzle attachment.

I got sick of scrounging for quarters. And now I have no excuse for riding on under-inflated tires or waiting for them to be embarrassingly low.

If the only improvement you're after is labor savings, you can keep using your Mini Mill! Just drive it with this inexpensive device, and make sure you don't run it too fast.

I have a set of makitas that fit nicely in my hands. I built a bed with the impact driver last week. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005CQ1RGI (on mobile, sorry)

• Hammer
  
• Level
  
• Measuring Tape
  
• Some screw drivers -
  
• Drill / Impact Driver . - https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCK240C2-Lithium-Driver-Impact/dp/B00IJ0ALYS
  
• Dry wall anchor kit - https://www.amazon.com/Hilitchi-Plastic-Drilling-Drywall-Hollow-wall/dp/B01IGMMJ9S/ref=sr_1_15?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1540921117&sr=1-15&keywords=drywall+anchor+kit
  

You're getting downvoted, but you are probably right. The batteries that were most commonly marketed as 18V were substantially heavier.

The difference is the battery tech: The 18V one would be NiCad, the 20V one is LiPo. LiPo's have much greater power density, so they use a smaller battery to get the same capacity. The also hold a charge considerably longer between uses and don't have the issues with memory.

You could also get a heavier battery by increasing capacity (more use between charges). That's probably not the case here since they would likely both be 20V if they were LiPos, but it's possible.

Edit: Err... LiIon, not LiPo.

Dremel is a name brand for hand held rotary tools. I have and have had several so I will give you my .02

Vacuum powered - You connect it to a shop vac or other vacuum and the suction powers it, while this may sound good on the surface I can't see this having anykind of power from this I suggest avoiding it.

Cordless - Battery powered, I have had several. You get less torque than with a corded version, and they run down. I do have their new micro version and I like it so far, but cordless will always be a balance between power and battery life.

Corded - Best bet IMHO, get more features for less money than with the cordless and do not have to worry about waiting for one to charge.

Suggested Features -

• Do not stick with a single speed version, go with variable speed. In fact the more speed options the better IMHO. Different bits require different speeds, for example a cutting bit needs to run quicker than a wire brush.
  
  
• Multi Tool chuck - Some bits come in different diamters, this one will take them all. I love this and have replaced the old style chuck on all of my units.
  
  Bits - This will depend on what you want to use it for. I use my Dremels for everything from mixing epoxy to cutting and sanding everything (metal, wood, foam, fiberglass, etc). You can get more for your money if you buy a family of bits in a kit (example) but a few bits I have found most useful are:
  
  
• Sanding drum - then you buy the different sleves that slide over the tip and come in different grits. Again look for kits.
  
  
• Cut off disk - Go for the re-enforced ones like this
  
  
• carbide disk - Love this thing it cuts wood and softer material very well.
  
  
• carbide bits Come in many shapes and sizes, I find that they work well for shaping wood and softer materials.
  
  NOTE Like most power tools, a rotary tool takes a bit of practice, they can get away from you and eat up material (including your jeans and leg) if you are not careful. I have found that 90 percent of the time a light touch.. pull back.. and light touch.. pull back is the best method.
  
  edit: spelling and format
  

Stew Mac's tang nippers are really just a slightly modified hand nibbler tool with an astronomical markup. The older model was a modified Klein #760113 nibbler with a half moon groove for the fretwire cut out just before the blade. Klein discontinued that tool which is why stew mac is switching models. There are still a few places that still have some stock. Here is one.

http://planetools.com/products/76011b-klein-tools-sheet-metal-nibbler.

You can file your own groove in the Klein with a good set of needle files and some patience. I'll emphisise the word patience here because the deck is hardened steel.

Allparts has a set of nippers stock. If you have an account they are half of retail. ($70 vs $140).

https://www.allparts.com/LT-4246-000-Fret-Tang-Nipper_p_2217.html

You can also modify the cheapie nibblers off Amazon but longevity might be an issue.

https://www.amazon.com/Premium-Life-360-022-Nickel-Nibbling/dp/B0002KRACO/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1521051617&sr=8-4&keywords=nibbler+tool

Just get a black and decker or harbor freight model, they all do the same thing and most are compatible with most dremel brand tooling.

This is what I use and have cut a lot of metal with it, still holding up.

http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-RTX-B-Rotary-Storage/dp/B000MUSLCC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1341409647&sr=8-1&keywords=black+and+decker+rotary+tool

The circular random orbit sanders are good all purpose sanders, if you really get into wood working you'll likely need a few different sanders for different use cases.

The difference between the two Dewalts is variable speed.

I own the Bosch ROS20VSK Which is the variable speed version of the Bosch one you listed, and its been good for me, its fairly quiet and has low felt vibration.

I've also used both of the Dewalt ones you listed and they are on par with the Bosch one I own.

Quick use of one of these screwdrivers and the board is now mine.

Also this doesn’t look like it can accommodate a boosted / esk8 board’s battery.

No. You want a Dewalt (or milwaukee if you're into that sort of thing).

I didn't like the pet-geared dremel, because the form was really clunky. It's shape and size was really awkward to hold against my dog's paw. They have this flared base to accommodate the battery that makes it feel unbalanced and unnatural in the hand. Did a little roaming at the hardware store and found this other Dremel branded tool. This is my preferred dremel and it's so amazing. Although it is more expensive (regularly $80, but I saw it go down to as low as $63 earlier this season):

1)it is very comfortable to hold. My hand doesn't get any fatigue using it. It's highly reviewed for people doing non-nail trimming applications because the form is so good in the hand.

2)It comes with a nifty charging station.

3)It has five speeds vs two. If you're still getting your dog used to it's nails filed, this low speed is mellow.

4) Comes with lots of other 18 accessories for other applications, making it versatile for other things around the house or projects.

5) It's pretty quiet (see video demonstrating it's sound level).

The next time you're at a hardware store, I'd recommend looking for the Dremel demos and holding it in your hand. The better shape alone vastly improved the design for dremels. Go try it out. It will feel like a dream in your hand.

A limitation of the dremel micro and other cordless dremels is that if you have multiple dogs (because you're a groomer, breeder, handler), I'd be afraid of this model running out of power. For that reason, I imagine this model wouldn't work for them as well when a corded one does the job without energy issues.

Do it. You can get a good quality setup for about $200

I use this

https://www.amazon.com/California-Air-Tools-CAT-1P1060S-Compressor/dp/B01LYHYHEA/ref=sr_1_4_acs_ac_1?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1540393854&sr=1-4-acs&keywords=QUiet+air+compressor

And this

https://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-RK-1-Additional-Regulator/dp/B0078MEXX8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540393900&sr=8-1&keywords=Badger+krome

Sorry in advanced that this is so long! Tl;dr - your set up looks good overall.


Personally I would go with a cheaper compressor (One that has a tank) and spend the difference on a booth (You can get the exact same one as the Master Airbrush Brand on eBay for like $50 with the hose to blow out a window.) I went with this compressor. For one, it's cheaper, and two, it has a tank so it omits pulsing air. I ran into that problem with my old compressor. This will cause uneven spraying out of the airbrush. I'm sure for most people it's not a problem, and I know many that have that exact compressor you listed and like it. So ultimately, that's your decision. The downside to the compressor I listed is that you will need to get a hose, and adapters. I also bought another moisture trap for mine that has a regulator on it which required an extension piece I got from Lowe's. Another plus side to the compressor i have is that I can use it for other things too if needed like blowing up giant pool floaties and it's strong enough to put air in a car tire if I ever had to. It's fairly quiet and has an auto off switch, I live in an apartment and have never had any neighbors complain about it.


The cleaning kit, you'll need q-tips, microfiber pipe cleaners suited to clean out tobacco pipes, and dental picks like these. I bought the Iwata cleaning kit and those were the only two things I used from it. Waste of money imo. The cleaning solutions depends on what kind of paints you're using. I just use paint thinner for the most part because I already have to buy a bunch, not really gonna hurt to buy more to use it for cleaning my airbrush. But again, that's your decision. Also get some airbrush lube. I recommend Paasche lube because it doesn't gunk up and is a bit thinner than the iwata stuff. In total, I spent about $220 on my entire airbrush set up and I'm quite happy with it.


Ultimately, you go with what you want/like/budget. I'm sure you'll like the set up you have listed if you go with that, I just had to be pretty frugal about what I bought and what I needed, but wanted the best bang for my buck so I spent about 2 months researching the things I would need and want.

I use a nibbling tool for stuff like this.

https://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-Nickel-Plated-Nibbling/dp/B0002KRACO/

To use it, mark the outline of the cut, drill a hole slightly bigger than the square cutter head, then insert the tool in the hole and nibble up to your line. With just a little practice, you can make perfect square and rectangular holes.

Nibbler tool is usually what you'd want to make a square hole:
http://smile.amazon.com/Parts-Express-Nickel-Plated-Nibbling/dp/B0002KRACO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1425488715&sr=8-1&keywords=nibble+tool

• fire HD 10 for $150
  
• compressor/accessory kit $104
  
• wireless kb/mouse for $12 (to use with my tv & consoles)
  
• a dash button $1
  
  Bought the Dewalt powertool kit and then canceled it, I need something like that, but would rather a different brand.
  
  Tried to buy a dashcam but the deal was full, and ended with me sitting on the waitlist.

Vacuum chamber and pump ~ 150

Pressure pot ~ 104

Air compressor ~90

I used these or similar in the past to get started. Most people don't need a 600+ 10g pressure chamber or a giant air compressor.

You could always get him a Dust Deputy, people f'in love those things! Plus made in usa is something most woodworkers like.

Here you go and yes I would recommend it.

https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-500-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B002XZLTQO/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1499796039&sr=8-10&keywords=electric+screwdriver

Did you buy this?
If you are trying to do case screws with that you should be using something stronger like DLSS linked.

If I were in your position, I would definitely shoot for a big ticket item such as the sawstop PCS (36" T-glide) with 1.75hp motor. That will eat up your entire budget (plus $219 more). I cannot imagine a hobbyist woodworker who would not be happy with it.

OR you can do lots of little stuff: (take out the things he may already have)
Sharpening: this this this this and this

Chisels: here

Japanese saw: this and this

Caliper: here

Exceptional quality hand plane set every woodworker would love to have if they don't have it already: here. Conversely, you can get the Lie Nielsen 60-1/2 block plane and get the #4 and #5 from Lee Valley (I prefer their version).


If he doesn't have a planer, this is a great one: here


As for festool products, I would highly recommend the Rotex 150 with Dust collector combination

I'm sure i'm missing a couple of stuff here and there but I hope the list helps you get started.

Just got a notification from CamelCamelCamel and wanted to share:

Amazon has the Dewalt 735X Planer marked down to $530 right now.
https://smile.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW735X-Two-Speed-Thickness-Package/dp/B003OX9KME/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=Dewalt+735x&qid=1573819734&sr=8-2

This is a pretty good price on these new, normal price is around $650. They are very good planers and I love mine even though I haven't gotten to use it as much as I'd like. If anyone has been thinking about getting one, this might be the right time!

edit: swapped the link for an Amazon Smile one.

Would recommend it if you want your wood coming out square and equal thickness!

My jointer is a Cutech 40160H-CT (shipped from Tennessee): https://www.cutechtool.com/product-p/40160h-ct.htm

My planer is a Dewalt DW735: https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-Two-Speed-Thickness-Package-13-Inch/dp/B003OX9KME/ref=sr_1_1?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1502140300&sr=1-1&keywords=dewalt+planer

I'm a professional carpenter and general contractor, and from my personal experience and the anecdotal evidence from the guys I regularly see, Bosch is of the best you can get for cordless tools nowadays. DeWalt used to be the go-to, but their quality has dropped considerably over the last 5-10 years. They still have some decent products, but I know of a lot of people who have had major issues with their drill chucks being off center.

This said, you kind of need a grab bag to get the best of each tool.

Here's my current setup, which is the same as quite a few contractors I work with:

• Bosch 18V impact driver/drill set. I've dropped my driver with a 6" bit attached directly onto the bit from 10' up, on concrete, and the entire thing was unscathed. Batteries last forever and charge very quickly.
  
  
• Festool jigsaw. Festool makes AMAZING products, but it's probably way overkill for most, and this Bosch model is a great second option I've seen used by many guys with a ton of success.
  
  
• Skil Mag 77 circular saw. This is the be all end all saw. It has enough torque to change the rotation of the earth. It's heavy, though, so a decent sidewinder might be your best bet. I would never use anything else, personally, though.
  
  
• Bosch compound sliding miter saw. I love this thing. You can put it flat up against a wall and still use the slider, which is a feature unique to them.
  
  
• DeWalt table saw. The major plus of this saw is that the rip fence is on a track, so both sides move together. I still never trust their gauges, but to know that both the front and back are equidistant from the blade 100% of the time is worth its weight in gold.
  
  
• DeWalt thickness planer. Never thought I'd buy one, and now I wouldn't be without one. With the combination of the above 3, you can pretty much make anything out of anything. Have a 5/4 board at the house but you need a 1x? 2 passes through the planer and you're set.
  
  
• Bosch Rotary Hammer. The demo master. It can hammer drill massive holes in concrete, or switch to hammer only mode to remove tile or glued on drywall particles. These are bulletproof.
  
  
• DeWalt orbital sander. Nothing fancy, as I don't do a ton of heavy sanding. Something to look for in these is the variable speed; makes jobs much easier.
  
  
• Bosch oscillating tool. Most brands are similar, and depending on your uses a corded model may be better. I have a second tool that uses these batteries so I have lots of backups (and they charge very quickly), and I often use it in places that running a cord would be a pain in the ass. This is great for trimming things that are immovable and can't be sawed: think door frame bottoms for new floors, baseboard trim to accommodate a new vent, drywall patching, anything. Love this thing.
  
  
• RotoZip spiral saw. Great for drywall, and there's a masonry style bit that works good for cutting pieces of tile (like around a faucet or control).
  
  
• Bosch planer. Again, nothing fancy and I definitely don't use it daily...but when you need a planer, there's not much else you can use.
  
  
  So there you go. Those are the ones that have gone through the ringer on a construction crew and have survived heavy abuse and regular moving/dropping without any signs of letting go. Some may be overkill for your situation, but they're what I've found to be best. I'm probably missing a few loose ends so look out for edits.

Sometimes I find the handle on these to be too small to easily break loose some screws.

I like my Ratcheting T handle screwdriver, it's easy to use, adjustable, and ratcheting which is great for longer screws.

I have tried some powered screwdrivers and they are great, but without an extension they can be hard to use inside a case or in tight spaces.

If they hat fat handled precision screwdrivers for cheap that would be great.

You'll want to have a 6-in-1 screwdriver, a 12V drill and impact driver and some pliers:

• Tongue-and-groove aka channel lock style
  
• Needlenose
  
• Lineman's
  
• Diagonal cutters aka dikes
  
  For the hand tools it doesn't matter what brand you get if you won't be using them every day. For the drill and driver I'd go with 12V Bosch or Milwaukee. This kit is cheap and reliable or you could go with this kit if you have use for the compact sawzall.

If you plan on driving screws more often than drilling holes, I'd recommend an impact driver instead of a drill/driver. I have the 18v Bosch combo kit: impact and drill/driver, and I find that I use the impact weekly but the drill only gets used every now and then.

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-PS41-2A-12-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Batteries/dp/B003LST02W

Getting both in a kit isn't much more.

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-CLPK22-120-Lithium-Ion-Batteries-Carrying/dp/B005GT0IWK

As far as brands, it's hard to go wrong with Bosch, Makita, DeWalt and Milwaukee. Pick whatever has the best price this week.

Call me crazy, but I like these Bosch 12v tools over any 18 or 24v tools I've owned. They're still powerful, but they're also lightweight and keep their charge for a long time. It means anytime you reach for them, they probably have a charge. I've linked to the impact driver for a reason: if you're going to be building a fence, do yourself a favor and get an impact driver.

>Wan had used the University’s money to purchase a Porter-Cable Pancake Compressor

Let's hope the quality of his research is at least 4.5☆

I guess I could just spend the extra $50 and get both. That would cover both your suggestion and the one by /u/OutlawGourmet1

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCK240C2-Lithium-Driver-Impact/dp/B00IJ0ALYS/ref=sr_1_10?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1541128605&sr=1-10&keywords=hex+impact+driver&refinements=p_89%3ADEWALT

I've been using a look to know for a while, but as my health has declined it's gotten a bit difficult to keep up-- plus my looms never made a tight enough knit for my tastes.

So I did some research and found a good, entry level circular knitting machine that wasn't too expensive and I love it! Now I can make a good length scarf in only 3hrs.

I had an idea about making it electric-- lots of folks have set up a power drill and use it for turning the crank. Since it's not the more expensive Addi Express, unfortunately there aren't really custom attachments, so instead I'm using Sugru to attach a spare drill bit I found.

Then I want to hook it up with a foot pedal, and maybe I can work on 3-4 at once!

I also use a row counter, but I think I need a stronger magnet for it to not miss rows.

Product links:

D&D Professional 40 Needles Knitting Machine Weaving Loom Kit includes Yarn Needles Accessories for Adults/ Kids https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071YSTN8Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_x6SCCbCC2S4MV

Electronic Counter, DROK LCD Digital Tally Counter 0-99999 Forward People Door Counter Panel 5 Digits Shockproof Retail Traffic Punch Tester Totalizer Gauge Magnetic Induction Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0153409CQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_j.SCCb8XKJDEW

DCT Foot Operated Pedal Controller On/Off Power Supply Switch 115V 15A 2 Step Control Style Woodworking Machine Control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076MH2NCT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_C.SCCbVJS6QYY

BLACK+DECKER DR260C 5.5 Amp 3/8'' Drill/Driver. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T2VJ93C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_T.SCCbPP035AX

Sugru Moldable Glue - Original Formula - White 8-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WW8KIQO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9.SCCbGCDH137

DEWALT DCF899B 20v MAX XR Brushless High Torque 1/2" Impact Wrench with Detent Anvil (Tool Only) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WJA1J68/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_U7SMDbYY70THC

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WJA1J68/ref=psdcmw_552820_t1_B00WTQW7JA

Yeah you're right it's 700 ft/lbs

I would say the bigger the more dangerous. Most often the threads will not break and you'll be left with a bolt/nut digging into whatever it is that you're anchoring. I have two DeWalt impact drivers: both cordless 20volt, one with approximately 160 Nm and a 1/4" chuck, the other is a 1/2" drive high torque driver with a maximum output of approximately 950 Nm. I've snapped grade 8 half inch lag bolts with the big one.

All in all I would suggest for standard use a 1/4 inch chuck, not drive, light duty impact wrench. Anything you feel might not be tight enough go ahead and use a socket and ratchet wrench to confirm and you should be all good.

DEWALT DCF887B 20V MAX XR Li-Ion Brushless 0.25" 3-Speed Impact Driver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0183RLW8A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PleoybVS9H9CS

Source: I work in heavy construction

For anyone curious, this is the "big brother" - DEWALT DCF899HB 20V MAX XR Brushless High Torque 1/2" Impact Wrench with Hog Ring Anvil https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WTQW7JA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ioeoybRH1MZTV

I use this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WTQW7JA

I've never had a nut that it couldn't take off. I've used it in everything from taking off lawn mower blades to nuts on my tractor and implements.

Some of the bolts on the implements you could barely tell there is thread with how rusted they are. Good luck on the future.

Have you looked at something like this - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KRACO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_RpyFybR6T1D4B

If you don't mind, I'd actually advise picking up one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-RTX-B-3-Speed-Rotary/dp/B000MUSLCC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416532678&sr=8-1&keywords=Black+and+Decker+dremel

The motor is higher quality and higher amps than a Dremel, so it lasts longer, and wont burn it's self out if you start using it. Uses all the dremel accessories too! :)

Black and Decker RTX http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-RTX-B-3-Speed-Rotary/dp/B000MUSLCC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1372710581&sr=8-1&keywords=black+and+decker+rtx

Takes all the dremel accessories and is cheap.

Honestly, get a Black and Decker RTX. I had a Dremel for 15 years, LOVED it. IT's a fucking fantastic tool, probably the most used in my garage, (which includes a table saw, chop saw, router and table, RO sander, finishing sander, multiple drills, circ saw, etc. etc. etc. I have a lot of tools).

But then it died, and my sis got me an RTX. It's got a more powerful motor than even the most expensive current Dremel, (two point something amps, IIRC). It's got a really nice hands-free bit changing mechanism. It's infinitely variable, (Even though it says "3 speeds) in speed up to the max.

I've used current wired and wireless dremels, (get a wired one, by the way...much more juice), and my RTX beads them hands DOWN.

First thing that amazed me was the instant spin up time. With that powerful of a motor, when you switch it on, it's instantly doing 35,000 RPM. It's nuts. Don't let the low price make you think it's cheap. It is one SOLID tool.

Very commonly used all-in-one kit for a pancake style compressor. Good for if you just want to order it and have it come with everything you need for basic usage, you might want the coupler set if you want to use different heads though, I would get it even if you probably wont because it's only $7 and you might as well.

Compressor kit:

http://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-C2002-WK-Oil-Free-Compressor-Accessory/dp/B000N5UHK0

Coupler set:

http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-4725-Connect-Coupler-5-Piece/dp/B0037JHOFU/

As for not damaging stuff with it, just know the power of how much PSI is coming out of it. There's an adjustment (knob?) on it so you can tune it but you should still pretty much always stand a few feet away from whatever you're shooting at, obviously less with lower pressure.

PLEASE BE SURE YOU BREAK THE AIR COMPRESSOR IN FIRST

Here's the procedure for the one I mentioned, from the manual:

Break-in Procedure

Risk of Unsafe Operation. Serious damage may result if the following break-in instructions are not closely followed. This procedure is required before the air compressor is put into service and when the check valve or a complete compressor pump has been replaced.

1. Make sure the On/Off switch is in the "Off" position.
   
   
2. Plug the power cord into the correct branch circuit receptacle. (Refer to Voltage and Circuit Protection paragraph in the Installation section of this manual.)
   
   
3. Open the drain valve (counter-clockwise) fully to permit air to escape and prevent air pressure build up in the air tank during the break-in period.
   
   NOTE: this is sort of counter-intuitive as you want the valve to screw UP toward the tank - giving the appearance of being closed when it's actually open. You will quickly realize whether you're right or not because you WILL hear the air blowing out the valve. No blowing air? Turn the screw the other way.
   
   
4. Move the On/Off switch to "On" position. The compressor will start.
   
   
5. Run the compressor for 15 minutes. Make sure the drain valve is open and there is minimal air pressure build-up in tank.
   
   
6. After 15 minutes, close the drain valve by turning clockwise. The air receiver will fill to "cut-out" pressure and the motor will stop.
   
   The compressor is now ready for use.
   
   Bottom line: open the drain valve to prevent pressure from building up.
   
   When you turn on the compressor, it will blow air out the valve.
   
   Run for 15 min. Basically a "dry run." No pressure.
   
   After 15 min, screw the valve the other way to close it and let pressure build up until it shuts off.
   
   You're all set.

Pancake compressors, like this

PORTER-CABLE C2002 Oil-Free UMC Pancake Compressor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000O5RO1Y/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_EDskDb46AT7KW

Tend to be louder because of the way the diaphragm works to pump air into the tank.

Compressors like this one

Campbell Hausfeld 30 gallon 2 Stage Air Compressor (XC302100) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RD8JKC7/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_jHskDbDCPF1VY

With a cylinder connected to a motor by belt are much quieter because the piston has a full stroke to pump air.

While both of these links show prices those are not definitive and I chose them because they illustrate my point. Belt driven cylinder compressors are quieter than diaphragm compressors. Prices vary.

This one has almost 2000 reviews and is over 4 stars. Also in your price range. PORTER-CABLE C2002 Oil-Free UMC Pancake Compressor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000O5RO1Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Br82Ab38ES082

>1: You say you use Vallejo paints, what is the reason for using that brand, Cost? Quality?

Boils down to really just two things.... the model air/game air paints are pre-thinned for airbrushing which is super handy, especially when starting out, and two, dropper bottles are infinitely better for airbrush work than those stupid-ass paint pots GW makes. I have LOTS of GW paints as they are amazing paints. (expensive, but amazing) Typically i brush paint with GW and airbrush with Vallejo.

>2: For some reason, that airbrush costs nearly 60 pounds :D (i live in the UK, if you hadnt guessed!) if i were to get that specific airbrush, what else would i need to make it work, you mention an Air Compressor (brand? type?) and a Water Trap (whats the purpose of that - as i say, bit of a noob here!), what else, some sort of Hose to connect the compressor to the brush i assume? any cleaning supplies? which specific paints do you use?

WTF?! That airbrush is 60 fuckin pounds in the UK. Shit. At any rate, ANY TANK compressor will work. A tank compressor compresses air into a giant tank that is THEN let out of the tank through the brush, which allows for smooth flow. If it were an air compressor without a tank then it would "putt, putt, putt air out." which is deadly for airbrush work. You want smooth constant air flow.

Airbrush to Compressor Hose

Water trap for air compressors Note: these aren't 100% necessary for a larger tank air compressor as the large tank somewhat does exactly what this little guy does. These are usually only necessary for a compressor that isn't a tank fed. Moisture through condensed air is a real problem and if it gets into your paint, it'll fuck up your smoothness of airbrushing.

My exact compressor, which can be used for LOTS of things, not just airbrushing. Note: the only downside to these types of compressor is how goddamned loud they are. Pretty much HAVE to be used outdoors.

I connect the airbrush to the hose i linked earlier. I connect that hose to the water trap i linked earlier. I connect the water trap to a standard thick cheap air compressor hose. I connect the cheap air compressor hose to the air compressor.

I assure you it's FAR less complicated than it seems. That masters brush i linked you earlier comes with a 'quick release' that is STUPID handy. It connects to the airbrush hose (the blue-ish one linked) really quickly.

I use pretty much exclusively Vallejo Air paints.

Model Air Standard Colors

Model Air Range

Game Air Range

Only difference between game and model air ranges is the color vibrance and ability to be touched repeatedly and not wear off. (should not be a problem at all if you varnish your models though). Game air colors are generally formulated to mimic the GW range as well.

The only difference between Game and Model vs Game Air/Model Air is that the Air versions of them are pre-thinned and ready to shoot through an airbrush straight outta the bottle. You can buy almost any of those colors individually from amazon.

Also, Airbrush Guru is THE best resource I've seen on the subject. TON of helpful tips and tricks. Great in-depth reviews of noob friendly airbrushes and how to clean them. Most of the things I've linked you to buy can be used for things OTHER than airbrushing. The reasons for that are they are cheap. Good airbrushes run for hundreds of dollars. Shitty ones that still work awesome are priced accordingly. Start small, then dive in from there.

Lastly but not in the very least... safety is king. DO NOT AIRBRUSH IN A CLOSED ROOM WITH NO VENTILATION.

Airbrushing acrylics is the safest of the paints to shoot through, but even they can get in your lungs and over time cause problems. If you are going to try to airbrush indoors make sure you setup a proper ventilation system or have in place a spray booth. Something like this would be fine.

P.S. This is incredibly handy as well, like, more handy than anything I've shown you so far. It is obviously NOT necessary, but once you start airbrushing I would guarantee you that it'll be the next thing you buy. Helps when you need to sit the airbrush down but you still have paint in the cup. Enjoy! Again, go to that website, The Airbrush Guru for the best information. It's fantastic, seriously.

I am beginner woodworking and have only used the Bosch ROS20VSK. So my opinion might be a little "naive" per se. As far as ROS goes, it's great on dust collection and generate only moderate humming noises. It's also not too hard on your hands. Here's a link to it on amazon review: http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-ROS20VSK-120-Volt-Variable-Random/dp/B0018Z8D64

The one I have was ~60 when I got it, but it's 79 right now. Its got variable speed, but that doesn't matter to everyone. I've seen people go for dewalt, makita, bosch, and ridgid random orbit sanders most often.

On the topic of sanding/dust, does he have a shop vac or any form of dust collection? I linked the one I have below that I got from home depot for $99, but there are smaller ones you can get. It's less sexy of a gift but it's something that's important to have.

http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-ROS20VSK-120-Volt-Variable-Random/dp/B0018Z8D64/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1448994791&sr=8-1&keywords=Bosch+ROS20VSK

http://www.amazon.com/Ridgid-WD1450-14-Gallon-6-Horsepower-Vacuum/dp/B001MBADFI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1448994876&sr=8-2&keywords=rigid+shop+vac

i recently went through this and did a lot of research and comparison. Comes down to either the Dewalt mentioned below or the Bosch ROS20.
http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-ROS20VSK-120-Volt-Variable-Random/dp/B0018Z8D64/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1373305781&sr=8-1&keywords=bosch+orbital+sander
i ended up going with the bosch, only because it was on a great sale. Both are tops for sanding finish, but Bosch excels a little in dust collection.

My dust deputy was $60(ish), the dustopper is $40. The better performance seemed like it would save money in consumable bags or filters pretty quickly. I think in your case what I mean is, if you go with a seperator instead if the HF collector, dust deputy clears more fine dust and will be less likely to leave you with the same problem.

Duststopper comes with a hose, deputy does not. Both need a bucket. So thats a price consideration.

Here are links to what Im referencing.

Video that convinced me dust deputy performed well enough to be worth the extra money:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=XsCVcx2O0u4


Dust deputy for $60
https://www.amazon.com/Oneida-Molded-Dust-Deputy-Cyclone/dp/B002JP315K/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1549253233&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=dust+deputy&dpPl=1&dpID=312x3hJXq1L&ref=plSrch

Dust stopper for $40
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dustopper-High-Efficiency-Dust-Separator-12-in-dia-with-2-5-in-hose-36-in-long-HD12/302643445

Also consider that you’ll need a bunch of 4 inch hose and fittings / adapters for the HF collector.

I had to do a double take to check that I didn't post this last night without remembering.

I am going through this same process with the 10x14 attic space above our bedroom. I started off with Plan B and tried a few different methods. Filter bags filled up much too quickly and would have been expensive but they did a great job of containing the mess. I have a Dust Deputy attached to my vacuum which helped, but inevitably, the shopvac would get clogged with insulation that made it out of the vortex. My most recent adaptation was to attach the dust deputy to the top of a 40 gallon airtight drum I bought from amazon and then use some old pantyhose around the shopvac filter. This greatly extends my times between either emptying the shopvac or emptying the 40 gallon barrel. Inevitably the shopvac gets filled first but the pantyhose does a great job of keeping the filter in usable shape.

I did buy a Toro leaf blower/vacuum and it worked well but I didn't have an airtight container at the time so the fine insulation would just blow out from under the lid of the trash can I was using. If you have ANY holes in the tubing, you will have a dusty mess on your hands. I plan on retrying this method on the remainder of my attic in the next couple of weeks. If/when it doesn't work adequately, I will buy some insulation bags from Amazon and that should finish the job for me.

https://www.amazon.com/Deputy-Standalone-Anti-Static-Cyclone-Separator/dp/B002JP315K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496112200&sr=8-1&keywords=dust+deputy

https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-1601MB-Polyethylene-Lever-lock-Capacity/dp/B0025QI4XC/ref=pd_sim_328_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0025QI4XC&pd_rd_r=TWYG0J54TB8HRJBXHVX3&pd_rd_w=L9VJ6&pd_rd_wg=DlIiD&psc=1&refRID=TWYG0J54TB8HRJBXHVX3

I'm not going to try this(or I might) but I think if you daisy chained two dust deputies and two drums, you would be absolutely fine with a shopvac.

I also made the mistake of failing to consider the difficult in mixing the Green Fiber cellulose bales without their machine once I had removed the old insulation. I only needed 7 bags for above our bedroom but man was that a PITA. I used a concrete mixer attached to my battery powered drill and managed to get in a great rhythm but having the machine would have been a million times easier.

Replace the switch. You can get good quality switches at Ace Hardware. Make sure you get one that supports enough amps on AC.

You can then hook up a Dust Deputy to any drum or pickle bucket you like to keep the shop vac's filter from clogging as much.

http://smile.amazon.com/Oneida-Molded-Dust-Deputy-Cyclone/dp/B002JP315K

I just replaced the shop vac in the pic with a dewalt one


DeWALT Portable 4 gallon Wet/Dry Vac https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BYHM9NK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_d6ESDb49YJWZQ

And the dust deputy

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002JP315K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_p7ESDbJGQV34M

It depends...Due to a medical issue my hands shake a fair bit so I used one of these: https://amazon.com/General-Tools-500-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B002XZLTQO and drove the screws all the way but stopped just short of tightening then did the final tightening by hand with a hex key or the hand driver in the kit linked below. It beat dropping the allen key on the floor every 4 minutes! Now this power driver uses 4mm shank "micro bits" and the German tool makers Wiha and Wera, which are seriously pro grade and expensive as all hell, market these bits but this kit I linked to will supply you with all the bits you need and then some.

https://amazon.com/Syntus-Precision-Screwdriver-Electronics-Cellphone/dp/B071PB4RPV

Oh, and use lithium AAA batteries in your driver as it'll kill regular batteries in just a few hours.

Full disclosure I have zero, nill, null, nadda financial interest in the above linked items.

Do you use an electric screwdriver today? Perhaps one of those would be easier to use since you only have to aim it once and press the button?
Something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-500-Precision-Screwdriver/dp/B002XZLTQO

I recommend the DeWalt DW735. It's a great machine.

What is a layer, ie, how much material do you want to remove? How big is the piece? These questions would matter in giving you a helpful response.

FWIW, I have NEVER used a belt sander on anything I'm making. But I do have a dw735

Amazon has the Dewalt 735x for $544.59. The X is the one with the in/outfeed tables and an extra set of blades. It is a very good thickness planer. There is also a third party helical head for it.

All planers take some tuning.

Plan to pay minimum $500 for a decent one (13" width). Get a dial indicator for tuning the blade depth.

I'm still saving for one myself. This is the one I have had my eye on.

Pricey but Wow

http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-GCM12SD-120-Volt-12-Inch-Glide/dp/B004323NNC $695

http://www.cpotools.com/bosch-gcm12sd-12-in-dual-bevel-glide-miter-saw/bshngcm12sd,default,pd.html?ref=pla&zmam=31282435&zmas=47&zmac=66&zmap=GCM12SD&gclid=COiWw4Hew7cCFZE-Mgod7X4AHw $769.99

Tell that to amazon. some of their "list prices" are way more than that item has ever sold for anywhere.example i bought elsewhere after shopping around a lot, i never saw it over $800

Where are you located that a brand new Bosch miter saw is under $300? That saw is $600 at Home Depot and Amazon, right now.

I'd recommend buying tools based on what your project plans are. If you're going to do trim, build decks and fences or anything that involves less sheet goods, absolutely I'd recommend a miter saw.

If you plan to build sheet good stuff, desks, cabinets, anything that involves plywood, then you can reasonably by a table saw and fill the gaps with a circular saw.

What is your budget? I'll be able to make better recomendations for tools if I know how much you have to play with.

I would avoid the saw you linked for a few reasons:

1. Single Bevel - If you have any intentions of doing crown moulding or trim you will literally want to kill yourself after setting fire to that saw from rage. The saw only tips one direction, it rotatates horizontally either direction, but it only tips one direction, this will make some compound miters a fucking nightmare to figure out (if you can even do it with acceptable results) Even for a home owner, I'd suggest a 12" dual bevel saw. I own this: http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-GCM12SD-120-Volt-12-Inch-Glide/dp/B004323NNC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452305203&sr=8-1&keywords=bosch+sliding+miter+saw
   and I would not for ONE second hesitate to buy it again. Unlike most sliding saws, it does not use a rail system, so if you use it in a shop, you don't need 18-24" behind the saw to slide it. It's great for installing at a workbench. The price is also much more reasonable for you yankee folks since you dollar is getting much better now. It's a great saw, and if you look after it (as with any good tools) it will last a lifetime.
   
2. Sears tools are not what they used to be, I would not put them much above buying ryobi anymore, as they've outsourced so much of their production to the lowest bidder. I'd take Ridgid tools (great for homeowners, btw, because of lifetime service agreement for non-commerical users). Some of their (sears) stuff is ok, but there are better options now. My philosophy has always been buy the best quality you can afford, once. You're learning this lesson with your circular saw already.
   
   
3. 10" saws are ok, but a 12" saw gives you alot more cut capacity, both width of material, and depth.
   
   Some people might find the new yankee workshop boring (as you can likely tell, I'm a huge fan of Norm, and have been since I was a boy, I can attribute vast amounts of my woodworking knowledge to him directly) You'd do yourself a favor by watching some of his shows, and grabbing a book of his called "Measure twice, Cut once" they are absolutely worth the time investment.
   
   Here's a good place for you to start:
   
   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GUMif8_XQRE
   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JYqvwlbm6B0
   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rTp4v1PZmBY
   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZuKIBWqg5yI
   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-nGqsc0JF3I
   
   That should keep you busy for a couple hours. It might be a little dry in places, but everything he show he does for a reason. This guy is about as good as it gets IMHO.
   
   Let me know if you have any more questions, I'd be happy to help you.
   

Are you limited to that budget or can you go over? I got the Bosch GCM12SD a few months ago and it is awesome. Literally every worker who comes over and sees me using it is like "Damn that is a nice chop saw".

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004323NNC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I dont have a shop so I keep it on this stand and wheel it in and out of my shed when I use it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VZNEM0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got the laser for it as well but I never use it, just as easy to line things up manually.

Can't go wrong with the Bosch, the pretty much invented the jigsaw and are still affordable. http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-JS470E-120-Volt-7-0-Amp-Top-Handle/dp/B004323NPK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394418669&sr=8-1&keywords=bosch+jigsaw That's what most of my coworkers use, but I personally prefer my Festool. The only thing to worry about with Bosch is the blade carrier which will wear out, especially if you're doing lots of curved or miter cuts.

Also stay away from a cordless. The Dewalt cordless is solid but the battery doesn't last longer than 45 min of cutting, and the Bosch cordless I've used the motor burned and now it only runs at 1/4 speed.

Unless you are in the trades, where time is money, go with a corded model, as it will get most of its use in the shop and hardwire is always available to you. Batteries go bad and fail, or the technology improves and you're left with a bare tool in 10 years.

As far as brand and cost, you should be spending about $150 for a quality saw that will give you good cuts and long service, and you do want a variable speed for different materials. The only two I would recommend would be Bosch or Makita; I happen to own a Bosch, which has served me well for over 18 years now. The current version of my saw is below.

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-120-Volt-Variable-Top-Handle-JS470E/dp/B004323NPK/ref=sr_1_3?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1526935503&sr=1-3&refinements=p_n_feature_four_browse-bin%3A9060578011

I know, no-one takes it seriously until they try it. Of course your mileage may vary on how big the tuner hole is and how thick your toothpicks are, so you may have to double up. Then break em off so the toothpick doesn't run into an adjacent tuning post. If you're gonna change strings the next day you might as well leave them in, else pull them out with a needle-nose plier.

The cordless screwdriver isn't faster than you can do with a string winder, but it's easier. The one I got: http://www.amazon.com/Decker-AS6NG-Alkaline-Cordless-Screwdriver/dp/B004HY3APW/ref=zg_bs_552750_1

You could make your own bit if you're handy with that sort of thing, I got one like this one http://www.instrumentoutfitters.com/ZAP-IT-STRING-WINDER_p_2173.html

Good luck with it!

I got a black and decker cordless screw driver for this exact purpose. +/- $20 on Amazon. I'll track down a link shortly for you. Worked like a charm before I said fuck it for on the press trimming and went back to my zip trim.

Edit: BLACK + DECKER AS6NG Alkaline Cordless Screwdriver https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B004HY3APW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.9Fsyb4X9WK90

It takes AA batteries so you can replace them instead of having the factory battery slowly fuck off like they do.

better go with this one

I have the M12 Fuel driver. I've had it for about a year and a half I think and haven't had any problems. A single battery will last about a week with the brushless impact driver.

But Makita also has a pretty nice setup, not quite as powerful and they're brushed, so not as "fuel efficient," but they are a little bit smaller than the M12 driver.

Me too I have the Bosch 2 drill set Bosch 12-Volt 2-Tool Combo Kit (Drill/Driver and Impact Driver) CLPK22-120 with two 12-Volt Lithium-Ion Batteries, 12V Charger and Carrying Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005GT0IWK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JrxYAbAJ30R23
They have been wonderful so far

A/C service is notoriously expensive.

For good reasons, the gasses are toxic and its illegal to (knowingly) vent them to the atmosphere, it has to be pumped out with a machine and disposed of responsibly.

That said, I have done a fair few A/C compressors, they aren't terrible to replace but they are extremely heavy. Assuming your engine is the 3.0L Duratec the compressor is usually right on the bottom of the engine if memory serves me right, there will be three long bolts that are 10MM holding it in place, and one 10 mm bolt on the top securing the high/low pressure A/C lines to the compressor.

basically, remove belt, pull bolts, remove A/C line (after being depressurized), pull A/C unit down, then reverse the process with a new A/C compressor.

Assuming all else is functioning the next step is to vacuum seal the A/C system, Every car has a different vacuum specification for this, its best to get a shop manual (Haynes, chilton) to find out how much vacuum you need. You also will need some kind of air pump and a kit designed to create a vacuum.

Something like this, which requires an Air compressor to operate, there are a few youtube videos floating around on how to use this, its as simple as hooking up a few air hoses.

Once the vacuum is created, you need R-134a freon to be added to the system, the 2003 Sable requires 32 ounces of Freon assuming the system was completely depressurized.

Also, you need this in order to use those R-134a cans. Make sure while you are filling the system you are running the engine and the A/C setting on MAX, once the Freon gets into the system you should start hearing the A/C clutch cycle on and off, as you add more freon the system will cycle less frequently.

Assuming you did everything right, the A/C system should then start working again (with the addition of the correct serpentine belt), however, if you do this wrong it could damage the new compressor, dryer, and condenser.

Also, most shops quote to replace the dryer when the A/C system goes wrong, as the dryer's job is to accumulate water, over time this will fail to function as well as it should and start getting water into the rest of the system, thereby damaging the compressor and/or condenser, YOU SHOULD REPLACE THE DRYER WHILE YOU ARE AT IT, otherwise you will be in the same boat probably about a year from the date that you do the repair.

Conversely, you also could have a shop recharge the system for you, most places do it for about $80-$100, which is significantly less than you buying some of the aforementioned tools.

If all of this looks and feels daunting to you and you have no further assistance (like someone who knows whats up) helping you, either a) pay the shop or b) live with no A/C or C) buy a new car.

I did, the point is guns are not only simple to make but a gun which is effective at killing many people can be and are home made regularly. Your entire premise is completely wrong.

I've already explained why you are wrong, but I'll do it again. Guns are simple machines which only require basic tools to make, like a rivet gun, sheet metal bender, and an air compressor.

If you are looking to just shoot one person all that is required to make a shot gun is two pieces of pipe, a pipe cap, a bolt, and a power drill.

But go a head and downvote me, that will make you right.

I was in the same boat a few months ago. I went with the Porter-Cable 3.5 gal. pancake unit. Seriously, it doesn't take up anymore space than the ones you're looking at. If I had to do it over, I would pay extra for a comparable California Air unit, solely to avoid the NOISE.

Keep an eye out for deals (sites like slickdeals.net can help with this). I started with this set of Dewalt 20v Impact Driver/Drill and have just bought additional tools as needed for projects. Plenty of power and the batteries last forever.

You're misunderstanding me. The 18v sold in stores in America is completely different than the 20v sold here. American 18v versus American 20v


One is li-ion, the other is nicad. Huge weight difference.

This is a good cheap corded drill, which I recommend more than a battery operated drill, especially for the homeowner or apartment dweller that will use a drill only on occasion. Good luck.

Get yourself a cheap drill like so: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T2VJ93C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ALnPAb1XJ4REG or check out a second hand/thrift store. They come in handy for all sorts of things.

No, these are not design for that type of work.. This is a powered screwdriver.. made for making quick work of installing outlets or working with machine screws.

http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-DR260C-5-2-Amp-Driver/dp/B00T2VJ93C/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1454109673&sr=1-3&keywords=corded+drill

There, same price and will do the job.

Also, please be careful when drilling into walls, make sure you are hitting the stud using a good stud finer.. even a strong magnet will do. Be careful of electrical wires, data runs and plumbing drains\vents.

What are you looking do to exactly, hang a picture? Mount a T.V?

I use this

No need for a compressor and o lines to fuck with or oiling. It's great and hasn't let me down yet. In fact it outperforms my craftsman pneumatic impact

Cordless impacts FTW. I only have the Craftsman C3 20v and it's still pretty great. Takes a second or two on stupid-tight lugs (for example, whoever put the lugs on my buddys RAV4 should get a talking to - no way you'd ever get those fuckers off on the side of the road) and the wheel-hub nut on my wife's Odyssey, but it works. I've decided the money I'd spend on a bigger compressor is going to go to a small quiet one and the beefy DeWalt. If 700 ft/lb can't do it, I've got no business screwing with it... ;)

That's an impact driver, not an impact wrench. I don't know that model but they generally put out about 100 ft lbs. You need something like this.

Well bare tool DeWalt is $204 on amazon. That's $199 with coupon. Sure it comes with a battery, but I got plenty of DeWalt batteries.

The DeWalt one also seems like it will have a long production run and is super popular, so I'll be able to buy parts, and broken ones to use for parts for years to come.

Some additions to /u/iNeedAValidUserName's list (sorry if it wasn't clear, we own the same dogs):

• Dremel was about $80-90. You can find "pet dremels" for cheaper but for dogs especially bigger ones with hard, big nails, you don't wanna cheap out on it. This one was on sale a few days ago and is an example of a higher quality one, unsure if it is still. You can also pay someone to do it for you at about $12 a pop. We got burned on that with our first dog though and are living through the consequences so we are doing all the maintenance and grooming ourselves, at least for a little while, for this puppy.
  
• Training classes are pretty cheap around here in relation to the cost of living because we are blessed with some of the best dog trainers in the country within the Bay Area of all styles of training, and people who have trained under them/use their techniques. I really suggest you take training classes early on, it will make your life so much easier, and if neither of you guys are experienced with dogs, good puppy classes. Sirius is a pretty good school founded by Ian Dunbar and is about $200 for 5 sessions; you can start taking classes as early as 8 weeks old. I usually mention it to novice pet dog owners because it teaches you a lot about dog behavior and stuff like housebreaking. We take classes elsewhere, as we have experience puppy rearing - Deep Peninsula DTC trains on Mondays at Rengstorff Park and has a puppy class which is $90/session. We really like Reena, the trainer there and we were really happy to get a spot there; the class is outdoors though which is an insanely distracting environment. A lot of novice or first-time dog owners can get frustrated in this kind of environment. Our "main" dog training club is Town & Country DTC in San Jose, which trains Thursday nights. We love their program as a whole and they don't have a regular "puppy" class, but a beginner class you can start your dog at 4 months at. It's all the same to me. The trainers for that class are fantastic. Everyone teaches things a little bit differently so it's good to know a few different methods just in case your puppy doesn't respond to one of them.
  
• If you want your dog to socialize with age appropriate puppies it's good to do that while they are smaller as many have size restrictions of 15-20 pounds. Adobe Dog Training hosts it Saturday morning for $15 in Los Altos but we never got to bring our puppy there because there is a size restriction. Places like Petsmart and Costco have them too.
  
• Age-appropriate chews can get pretty expensive. We use 12" bully sticks with our puppy and we bought a huge bulk pack of them before we brought him home for $45 on an Amazon flash sale. Packs that size are like $60 a bag from most vendors. Occasionally they sell them at Costco.
  
• You can probably buy an okay high velocity dryer for around $250 on Amazon. We just want a specific one for our purposes. You can also take your dog to Pet Food Express in Palo Alto and wash em to the tune of $15/wash, or about $12 if you buy them 4 at a time.
  
• I noticed some people on r/samoyeds have been recommending harnesses to you guys for loose leash walking. This is good, but a caveat - harnesses will often times get really pricy because your puppy is growing very quickly. Another thing is that some harnesses do restrict movement or can change your dog's gait in not a good way, so it's good to speak to your breeder about it before buying one. Mine pretty much strongly discourages her buyers from buying Easy Walk harnesses. We are currently training our dog to LLW with a variety of layered training methods so we currently have him only on a martingale collar, no harness, and don't need to use collar corrections. We do go through a lot of cheese, though. Part of the reason for this is because we want him to pull under different contexts in the future and we want to actually have him associate harnesses with it being okay to pull.
  
• Ah yes, tangential puppy damage. My lower energy small dog destroyed my $120 pair of glasses, my $200 handbag, and a custom 100 ft. ethernet cable in less than a week once she started teething. So that is something to have to prepare for. Our dog isn't teething yet and the most he's done is put an inch tear in the shoes I wear to work every day, but we are nowhere near out of the woods yet.

I'm sorry to hear it, that sounds very sad and it must be tough to try to get her to a confident and happy place (although it sounds like she is in a very happy place living with you!). I imagine changing owners must be really hard on a dog also, especially one that is as glued to its people as dobes usually are, which could maybe make even previously normal things scary too.


I have this dremel (with the sander, not the pumpkin carving tip, of course...) https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B015DVN4E4/r - the smaller rechargeable ones like this one still make noise but they're quieter than the big plug-in full size Dremel.

If you want quiet, give this one a try. If the size isn't big enough, they have larger sizes as well but their sound levels are great.

https://www.amazon.com/California-Air-Tools-CAT-1P1060S-Compressor/dp/B01LYHYHEA

There really are no pros of tankless compressor compared to one with a tank. A tankless one will run hotter and louder because it has to constantly run in order to maintain air pressure. The airflow is also more irregular which makes detail work with a airbrush much more annoying.

The first link is a airbrush ready compressor with a tank that should do what you need it to. The second is compressor that would need some fittings, hose, and moisture trap in order to work with airbrushing. The second one has the advantage of being a bigger tank and more horsepower so it would have to turn on for shorter amounts of time to fill the tank and you can go longer with the bigger tank before the compressor has to kick in again.

https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Model-TC-40T-Single-Piston/dp/B00WBT7PTW/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=airbrush+compressor&qid=1570806689&sr=8-4

https://www.amazon.com/California-Air-Tools-CAT-1P1060S-Compressor/dp/B01LYHYHEA/ref=sr_1_6?crid=2HGLY5E1Q5YZ0&keywords=hitachi%2Bair%2Bcompressor&qid=1570807162&sprefix=hitachi%2Bair%2Caps%2C183&sr=8-6&th=1&psc=1

Buy from the source http://www.shoeboxcompressor.com/order/compressors/freedom10-shoebox.html.

Agree that you need a small compressor for the 1st stage, but many people into this sport already have one for some reason or another. I use this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LYHYHEA and it's a great low cost garage compressor and 1st stage for the Shoebox.

Not many have ever worked with a g pro wired pcb, but if you need to make the the pcb smaller, you can trim parts of it (I like to use hand nibblers) or cut parts off entirely and jump them with wires.

​

Also if you're not on there already, join /r/mousereview discord, the modding channel is pretty active.

Bud-boxes, some step drills, and a hand nibbler. Done and done.

I remember you. A man after my own heart. You can also use a cheap nibbler to make any cutouts you need. But I generally avoid them and use standup transformers and hard mounted power cords with strain relief.

a nibbler is worth investing in

Don't use a Dremmel with the mb still there.

Get a nibbler... I've modded many cases with one similar to that. Nothing fancy, usually just making room for a replacement PSU.

Doesn't leave any debris and makes nice clean lines. Most of the cases i worked on looked like they were made that way afterwards.

It's not quite $15, but I have one of these and it's built like a tank and really powerful for the price.

https://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-RTX-B-3-Speed-Rotary/dp/B000MUSLCC

I got a Black and Decker rotary tool last October and its amazing, variable speeds up to 30,000 rpm. it was a gift but purchased from target for around $29.99+Tax Than picked up a 249 piece attachment kit from harbor freight for $21.99+ tax

So far it has handled every task I've had from sanding wood pipes to carving channels for air flow. Even a few sculptures. The links below is exactly what I'm working with.

http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-RTX-B-3-Speed-Rotary/dp/B000MUSLCC

http://www.harborfreight.com/249-piece-rotary-tool-accessory-set-93243.html

I use a Dremel 4000, but you can probably get away with some Black and Decker for most jobs.

If you're doing straight cuts, I actually just use a fine tooth saw to make the cuts, sand down with sandpaper, and let the paint cover up everything else smoothly.

Wear a mask when cutting the plastic up and work in the garage.

I use a black and decker dremel knockoff. It's bulkier, but seems pretty well built and is about half the cost. Works with dremel accessories too. https://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-RTX-B-3-Speed-Rotary/dp/B000MUSLCC

Make sure to get one with variable speeds. I use mine a lot, so the finer control comes in handy. If you just need a tool that will get the job done, Black & Decker make the 3 speed RTX-B for about $30 and it works great.

More important in this case though is to have a proper plastic cutting/shaping tool. The trick with plastic is removing the material without melting all of it. They make special cutting bits for wood and plastics, which honestly I wish they'd made a lot sooner. It'll still melt some of the softer plastics if you go too fast but is miles ahead of the high-speed steel cutters..

More like 30, a million is a bit of stretch too, I'd prefer an angle grinder myself.

http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-RTX-B-3-Speed-Rotary/dp/B000MUSLCC/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1376520055&sr=8-6&keywords=dremel

No worries happy to help.

As far as a dremel goes, I got this and this to take Dremel tips. It works amazing.

Yes tiny details can be hard! Depending on how small it's going to be, my suggestion would be to use a nail file and/or a dremel. Epoxy may not be needed for small things like that.

I'm thinking this...

PORTER-CABLE C2002-WK Oil-Free UMC Pancake Compressor with 13-Piece Accessory Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000N5UHK0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4jqHxbTDWKKRP

Not sure, my Tacoma has a power inverter and outlet in the bed

PORTER-CABLE C2002-WK Oil-Free UMC Pancake Compressor with 13-Piece Accessory Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000N5UHK0/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_e7UhAbM93JRYS

I'd go with this one, for $125 you get the same specs as the ones you listed plus a hose and a few attachments. If you already have that stuff then you could get it without them for $99.

i got one of these pretty much just for this purpose

http://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-C2002-WK-Oil-Free-Compressor-Accessory/dp/B000N5UHK0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416286379&sr=8-1&keywords=6+gallon+air+compressor&pebp=1416286383267

Since no one else has mentioned it: I use an air compressor all the time.

So, I have a smaller compressor at home for tools and the such, this guy
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000N5UHK0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and I have attached an airbrush regulator with filter
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00171BFKK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Will these work good for air assist? I rarely use the compressor and would love to make it more useful ;)

I found 0.7 SCFM @ 90PSI on the Home Depot website for that model. An example of a more general purpose compressor for nailing and such would be this Porter Cable C2002 from Amazon with 6 gallon capacity and 2.6SCFM @ 90PSI. I can't vouch for that model but after a bit of research it's what's on my shopping list for the next time I need to do a lot of nailing.

Doesnt look like there was anything above that could have leaked on it. I used it for about 20 minutes today and it ran fine. I did notice that the tube leading from the pump to the tank was hot as hell. Nearly burned my hand on it. Thermal gun read about 170 F, not sure if that's normal though.

You appear to be corrected about it being oiless. This is the one I own https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-C2002-Oil-Free-Pancake-Compressor/dp/B000O5RO1Y

Yes that compressor will work fine with a finish nailer. For a framing nailer you'll need something beefier. I use this compressor with my Senco framing nailer and it works just fine for me. You can usually find them slightly cheaper when on sale at Lowes.

PORTER-CABLE C2002 Oil-Free UMC Pancake Compressor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000O5RO1Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6.nSAbK87TTRW

I use it to clean mainly as well as using it for my Brad nailer.

> Porter cable

Awesome, is this what you are talking about: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000O5RO1Y/ref=psdc_9022396011_t1_B006CVXGR0

https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-C2002-Oil-Free-Pancake-Compressor/dp/B000O5RO1Y/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1482369874&sr=8-3-fkmr1&keywords=porter+cable+compressor+refurb

Don't Buy Harbor Freight. It's trash. Buy the Porter Cable for life.

I used cheap-ass Master airbrushes and a 3-gal shop compressor with a digital regulator and a moisture trap in between the compressor and the brush. The below, plus a few trips to a hardware store for pneumatic fittings, should be enough.

https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Multi-Purpose-Gravity-Dual-Action/dp/B00EKUU0WY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1527561384&sr=8-4&keywords=master+airbrush

https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-C2002-Oil-Free-Pancake-Compressor/dp/B000O5RO1Y/ref=sr_1_3?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1527561398&sr=1-3&keywords=compressor

https://www.amazon.com/PointZero-Airbrush-Compressor-Regulator-Water-Trap/dp/B004KNAHE2/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1527561429&sr=8-6&keywords=airbrush+moisture+trap

https://alclad2.com/finishes/

People regularly say you should get a more expensive, higher quality brush, but to date I've yet to have major problems with my cheapo ones. It seems like the main benefit of the better brushes is ease of cleaning and durability.

I also use a 6 gallon pancake air compressor; you can set the air pressure so it's not too high. That model doesn't come with a hose, so I bought this kit which also includes an attachment to hook it up to the pump basket. After I've lowered the water below the skimmers, I blow the lines and plug each jet/skimmer as bubbles blow from them.

For woodworking, the two big power tools you need are a router and a tablesaw. You can duplicate other functions of tools with those two. I would suggest high quality on both.

For a sander, the Festool seems interesting, but I can't imagine spending that much on a sander. Instead, I went with this Bosch which if you take the bag off, has a tube connection that fits a standard shop vac. Much cheaper on all fronts, does the job just as well.

Someone mentioned you wanted to build a deck, and that is one of the few places I think a miter saw is really warranted. In a woodworking shop setting, you could simply use a crosscut sled for the tablesaw, but for more construction style work, a miter saw would be invaluable.

Fyi the first one is variable speed. You can see the speed dial in the 2nd picture and here’s the Amazon link for the same model.

I have this one and with limited experience I'd say it's a good buy. The variable speed is quite helpful.

I always feel the same way about every time saving tool I buy. My latest "How did I ever get by without this is?" tool is my Bosch Orbital Sander

First, the dust bible. I know at 4" hose you can only pull 349 CFM. Smaller the hose the less the possible airflow.

Second, Festool makes a great vacuum but IMO it isn't the right choice here. For the money, they don't move a ton of air.

---
Simplest choice - get the Harbor Freight Dust Collector for $170

$170

It pulls about 750 CFM at 5" hose. At a 4" hose you can only get 349 CFM. Go smaller and you drop even more. Won't be super quiet and not HEPA

---

OR

• Vacmaster 8 gal HEPA filter, fairly quiet- $190
  
  
• Cyclone - $50 and connect it to
  
• this container - $30
  
  Total = $270

Cyclonic dust collectors are very much worth the trouble. They save you an enormous amount of headache, and keep your vacuum's suction high enough to carry away the chips you're making.

The one you linked looks like it would trap medium sized particles pretty well, but with mostly straight sides, and the funnel down at the bottom, the vortex might not get going fast enough to spin smaller particles (like MDF fines) out of the airstream.

If you're not married to the idea of DIY, the Dust Deputy is an awesome option which works very well to clean your airstream.

Good Luck!

ah yes a dust separator

http://www.amazon.com/Oneida-Molded-Dust-Deputy-Cyclone/dp/B002JP315K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450308208&sr=8-1&keywords=dust+deputy

On top of a bucket with a tight sealed lid, and hooked up to:

http://www.amazon.com/ArmorAll-AA255-Utility-Vacuum-gallon/dp/B003M2F7NI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1450308251&sr=8-2&keywords=shop+vac

The cyclone separates the bulk of the dust/debris and drops it into the bucket below so it doesn't wind up in your shop vac, which extends longevity of the vac as well as makes the time between emptying much longer since it's now the size of hte bucket not the tiny little vacuum.

Of course you could always make the blower yourself too but it'll be hard to beat a shop vac in price efficiency.

General Tools 500 Cordless Power Precision Screwdriver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002XZLTQO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_mjIyxbX9TR56X

Quick Amazon search led me to this, it's fairly well rated. At $18.50 you can get a replacement or two for a reasonable price just in case.

I've been using probably the same General Precision Screwdriver as you for awhile now and it works great for most small screws. There are a few that require a bit of a wrist flick to loosen. I havn't broken it yet but I was lucky to get this PLUS the General Cordless Engraver for $10 for both so not a big deal if it gives out.

For larger screws I either use a Black and Decker 7.2v Lithium Cordless Drill (very lightweight but powerful) OR a Ryobi Tek 4 Cordless Screwdriver (a bit heavier but has light on the chuck, removeable rechargeable battery, and a '2' speed setting for quick removal of loose screws).

Bakcpack I use is waterproof and big enough to fit my laptop, tablet, tools, media, cabling and still have plenty of space for my Nintendo Siwtch and Switch Pro controller. Space for molle attachments, fully adjustable/removable straps.

This is my tool for light to medium driving jobs. I use a second manual driver with interchangeable bits for jobs that require more torque.

Fuck it. Get this one General Tools 500 Cordless Power Precision Screwdriver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002XZLTQO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0EkzybSZS3N4Q

I would like to see someone from /r/computertechs review one of these: electric precision screwdriver

Not sure if it's exactly the same kit, but that model is $570 on Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW735X-Two-Speed-Planer-Package/dp/B003OX9KME

Oh yeah I'm sure he does. That probably makes all the difference in this kind of stuff. I've done endgrain with my dad's Ryobi planer with 2 flat blades and it works ok. Lots of tear out on the back end of course. I've got my eye on this with this sexy beast. mmmmmfff...

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW735X-Two-Speed-Thickness-Package/dp/B003OX9KME/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=dewalt+735x&qid=1574962882&sr=8-1

Aside from coming with a "coarser" blade, how would it be aimed at construction vs cabinetry? If the Dewalt isn't accurate it should just need adjustment. Personally, I lean towards the DeWalt (I want a 12" sliding double Bevel Compound Miter saw one day) because I can'y justify the extra money on the Bosch beast

Squiggle wood is really cool, but what can it actually be used for aside from a demonstration of squiggle wood. The precision and accuracy of the jointmaker is probably it's best selling point, but that still doesn't come close to justifying the price. IMO.

Lets use specifically the kapex... it's really pricy

Vs the Bosch axial which is much more affordable and I do believe it to be an even better performer than the kapex.

You end up paying for the Festool name rather than quality of tool.

BOSCH 12" ARM SAW:

http://www.google.com/imgres?hl=en&safe=off&sa=X&rlz=1C1CHFX_enUS461US461&biw=1599&bih=809&tbm=isch&prmd=imvns&tbnid=VhOggZf9hETkKM:&imgrefurl=http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-GCM12SD-120-Volt-12-Inch-Glide/dp/B004323NNC&docid=SUBz96dGGZyFbM&imgurl=http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51o1ZQTMCqL._SL500_AA300_.jpg&w=300&h=300&ei=np17T5iRBarD2QXX59WnAw&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=475&vpy=138&dur=536&hovh=225&hovw=225&tx=147&ty=132&sig=108206764076847164418&page=1&tbnh=142&tbnw=138&start=0&ndsp=32&ved=1t:429,r:2,s:0

I stick with craftsman for basic tools like screwdrivers and shit because of the lifetime warranty. I've had too many cheap philips screwdriver get their tips bent out of shape from an unruly screw, and that's really fuckin' annoying. Spend the extra few bucks, but don't go overboard. Stanley tools are pretty good too. Kobalt and the other off-brands are crap.

Other than that, I tend to go with DeWalt- decent quality, not too expensive. However, this was recommended to me by the carpenters at work, and that thing is a wonderful beast. I'm doing some home construction work, and so far it sings like a champ.

Do you have an idea of what you want to get her, and what she'll actually use it for?

I've got this one, holy crap I can't even begin to describe how much better it is than my old black and decker. http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-JS470E-120-Volt-7-0-Amp-Top-Handle/dp/B004323NPK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420836671&sr=8-1&keywords=bosch+jigsaw

Yes! I really like barrel grips, too, because it gets your hand closer to the work so it's easier to control. Also, the ergonomics (at least on this one) are so nice! :) The standard ones you find in the big stores have 'top handles'. I don't like them as much. Thin handle, and if you think about it in terms of lever-arms, your hand rests a whole lot higher than the body, and a little bit behind where you can get your palm on a barrel grip. I find it's easier to make mistakes with top handle ones.

Just my opinion, so still worth researching to see what you like.

I have a Bosch JS470E, do not regret buying in the slightest (reviews speak for themselves). Had a piece of crap Ryobi cordless before it, which had me questioning why people use Jigsaws.

Not all their tools are bad.

For instance, this AA powered screwdriver combined with this set of bits makes a really handy kit for light around-the-house work like assembling furniture. Running off alkalines means that it won't go dead sitting on the shelf for six months between jobs.

Get yourself either a 12v or 18v makita set. Depending on how much you plan to use it, you can decide if you want the 12 or 18. My dad for work used the 18v, me as a condo owner using it maybe once a month got the 12v. I like the way the size feels in my hand. Not sure which of the 12v is the newer model. I got the white one, but i like the way my dad's 18 feels in my hand more. So i would probably go with the green 12v but i didn't see it when i got mine.

Makita CT200RW 18V Compact Lithium-Ion Cordless Combo Kit, 2-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M9D5L3M/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_bLsIxb83GZV9Y

Makita CT226RX 12V Max CXT Lithium-Ion Cordless Combo Kit (2 Piece) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0195M1MTQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_oMsIxbM94EBR1

Makita LCT209W 12-Volt Max Lithium-Ion Cordless Combo Kit, Black, 2-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005CQ1RGI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_8NsIxbNVQSXG5

I've had these makita 12 v for 2 years, still going strong on original batteries with everyday use. compared to my workmates' milwaukee and bosch, they feel the lightest and most balanced. i do envy the milwaukee battery meter, but overall am very happy with the makita 12v combo set for drilling and driving.

For 18v, I've had this Dewalt XRP 18v for at least 6 years. It's heavy, so i don't use it nearly as often as the 12's, but it gets used often enough on the more demanding jobs like hammer drilling or large diameter bits.

Regarding corded drills, I typically only use them for the heaviest jobs like mixing concrete and grout. Otherwise, they're either way overpowered or just uncomfortable

Just FYI, the Makita 12V drill + driver combo kit is only $100, making this right on the same price point, so it's really not a great deal or anything.

I use this Makita set. Super lightweight and can get into many small spaces.

Or get a real drill that will last you the rest of your life
http://www.amazon.com/Makita-LCT209W-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-2-Piece/dp/B005CQ1RGI/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1426213407&sr=1-1&keywords=makita

yeah - that looks like the Makita 12v compact drill and impact body:

see here

Yes, those hex bits will work in a regular drill chuck, or a hex chuck.


I'd recommend getting this set, with an impact driver and drill. Impact drivers are generally easier to use for stuff like screwing in screws, and you can leave the drill for drilling. You'll want a drill with a regular chuck so you can use regular drill bits in it. I've never been a fan of the hex drill/drivers, I'd recommend getting an impact driver instead.


Hex shank drill bits are usually not that great. The Bosch ones are probably OK, but generally round shank drill bits are better, and by far more common.


Bosch makes good tools and good bits. I think you'll be happy with them.

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-CLPK22-120-Lithium-Ion-Batteries-Carrying/dp/B005GT0IWK


Here’s a cheap, capable drill/driver combo.

I agree with others that for the tasks you've described, a compound miter saw is the tool. However, if she has no power tools, then another key thing to get would be a 12V battery powered drill and impact driver set (that share the batteries) like this extremely good one.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005GT0IWK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482342469&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=bosch+12v&dpPl=1&dpID=511SKUOCFcL&ref=plSrch


These things last forever

Yes, $65 at Home Depot - works great, I use it in the house. Don't get one that runs all the time, it will drive you nuts. Something like this, Home Depot has them for about $65 https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-PCFP02003-3-5-Gallon-Pancake-Compressor/dp/B00BMUGQNC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1484795364&sr=8-3&keywords=small+air+compresor

Do NOT buy this. It comes with 5 drills/drivers/impacts. Here is what you need:




http://www.amazon.com/Makita-LCT314W-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-3-Piece/dp/B005C95E2I/ref=sr_1_11?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1457007466&sr=1-11&keywords=12v+drill+driver+combo+kit




http://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-C10FCE2-15-Amp-10-inch-Compound/dp/B000V5Z6RG/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1457007519&sr=1-2&keywords=compound+miter+saw




http://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-PC75TRS-7-5-Amp-Reciprocating/dp/B004V327PS/ref=sr_1_9?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1457007539&sr=1-9&keywords=sawzall





http://www.amazon.com/WEN-61720-4-Inch-2-Inch-18-Gauge/dp/B000EJW1ZY/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1457007628&sr=1-1&keywords=brad+nailer





http://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-PCFP02003-3-5-Gallon-Pancake-Compressor/dp/B00BMUGQNC/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1457007761&sr=1-1&keywords=air+compressor




http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-60-100-10-Piece-Standard-Screwdriver/dp/B0000950PN/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1457007815&sr=1-4&keywords=screwdriver+set




http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-51-624-20-Ounce-Fiberglass-Hammer/dp/B000VSSG2K/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1457007879&sr=1-3&keywords=hammer+set




http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW1177-20-Piece-Black-Oxide-Metal/dp/B001EYU5N8/ref=sr_1_9?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1457007985&sr=1-9&keywords=drill+bits




http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW1177-20-Piece-Black-Oxide-Metal/dp/B001EYU5N8/ref=sr_1_9?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1457007985&sr=1-9&keywords=drill+bits




http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-33-425-Powerlock-25-Foot-Measuring/dp/B00002X2GQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1457008034&sr=1-1&keywords=tapemeasure

Getting close to the price of an air compressor... Just a little further and you could have a multifunctional tool! Come on. What's $100? http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BMUGQNC/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1395197738&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

We have this one at home. It's light, reliable, and pretty cheap. We use ours frequently around the house for inflating tires or powering air tools.

I wound up with DeWalt, but I caught a deal on drill, driver and toolkit for $230 a while back.

You can get either Milwaukee or DeWalt for $160 right now:

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCK240C2-Lithium-Driver-Impact/dp/B00IJ0ALYS

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-M18-18-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-Drill-Driver-Impact-Driver-Combo-Kit-2-Tool-w-2-1-5Ah-Batteries-Charger-Tool-Bag-2691-22/100650378

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCK240C2-Lithium-Driver-Impact/dp/B00IJ0ALYS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1487274792&sr=8-3&keywords=dewalt

I would get this:

https://smile.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCK240C2-Lithium-Driver-Impact/dp/B00IJ0ALYS/

I have that set and I use the impact driver 90% of the time. It is lighter, smaller (easier to fit in tight places) and more powerful. I pretty much only use the "regular" driver from the set when I have a special bit that won't work with the impact driver.

Edit: I actually just realized I have this brushless impact driver:

https://smile.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCF887B-Li-Ion-Brushless-3-Speed/dp/B0183RLW8A/

but the "regular" driver from that set. Brushless generally gets a bit more life out of a battery, not a ton of other difference.

Also, you can do most exterior work (drill into brick, concrete, etc) with the impact driver and the correct bit(s) (or the other driver and correct bits). I've put in concrete anchors in slab, drilled holes to mount things in a brick wall, etc with pretty much the first set I linked.

I have this set: https://smile.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCK240C2-Lithium-Driver-Impact/dp/B00IJ0ALYS/ I used this set to built a 10x30 deck, predrilled holes for screws and used the impact driver to run the screws in.

Get this impact driver bit set: https://smile.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW2166-Piece-Screwdriving-Tough/dp/B002JWSNIS/ref=pd_sim_469_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B002JWSNIS&pd_rd_r=89a3035b-cdb0-11e8-ab44-9143b7b890b1&pd_rd_w=vQWg3&pd_rd_wg=vqt4n&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=18bb0b78-4200-49b9-ac91-f141d61a1780&pf_rd_r=NMZEJE4DZECRHVJVWV50&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=NMZEJE4DZECRHVJVWV50

The five bits in the lower left hand corner of the box fit the impact driver. The other bits fit into the middle three bits.

Well, you need to find somewhere that sells cheap tools, perhaps a second hand tools place or a garage sale :)


Edit: here are the things you need, these are way way overkill for the job though and will run you about $55 if you get free shipping.

http://www.amazon.com/Decker-DR260C-5-2-Amp-Driver-8-Inch/dp/B00T2VJ93C/ref=sr_1_1?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1463019428&sr=1-1&keywords=drill&refinements=p_36%3A1253528011

http://www.amazon.com/Coolshare-Awesome-Craftsman-61-Pc-Accessory/dp/B0140PDXW2/ref=sr_1_11?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1463019496&sr=1-11&keywords=twist+drill+bits

http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-SF100-Wood-Finder/dp/B00020JOFA/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1463019602&sr=8-16&keywords=stud+detector

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-60-100-10-Piece-Standard-Screwdriver/dp/B0000950PN/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1463019662&sr=8-6&keywords=philips+screwdriver

What type of budget does your team have?

How much space is available as your work area?

How experienced at building robots are the mentors?

What build system does you team intend to use? How many custom parts do y'all want to make?

What level of CAD skills does the team have?

We need to know these things to give valid advice. If your team has $100 to spend on tools the list is really different than if your team has $500. If your team has ~$4000 and really experienced mentors the list is also totally different.

​

Let's assume your team has really limited budget and wants to make the most of it. I will also assume you are using the REV system.

Here is my minimum tool list:
5.5 mm Nut Driver - http://www.revrobotics.com/rev-41-1119/

5.5 mm wrench - http://www.revrobotics.com/rev-41-1374/

Allen wrench set - https://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Hex-Allen-Wrench-Ball/dp/B0776C2D6H/

Rotary Cutter - https://smile.amazon.com/WEN-2305-Rotary-Tool-Shaft/dp/B003BYRFH8

Hand drill - https://smile.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-DR260C-Drill-Driver/dp/B00T2VJ93C/

Hack saw - https://smile.amazon.com/Tactix-267031-Adjustable-Hacksaw-Frame/dp/B00ABBUU2Q/
Bench Vice - https://smile.amazon.com/WEN-453BV-3-Inch-Heavy-Swivel/dp/B07KKXQQ3S

Metric Drill bit set - https://smile.amazon.com/Drill-Warehouse-99pcs-1-5mm-Titanium/dp/B01NC25BRK

Pliers set - https://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Tools-4-Piece-Pliers-Set/dp/B015X2NHOK


That works out to be ~$110 + shipping and tax. These are the bare minimum tools IMO. If you can answer the questions above I can give you some better advice.

- Frank

Looks good but it costs a little bit more than I'd like (especially for this project). Do you think this is good?

That looks more like an electric screw driver in a drills form factor.

You might get better results with something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Decker-DR260C-5-2-Amp-Driver-8-Inch/dp/B00T2VJ93C/ref=sr_1_1?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1478633522&sr=1-1&refinements=p_n_feature_four_browse-bin%3A9060578011

I don't own this unit so cannot recommend - just saying a corded drill will probably work better.

No, in order to drill anything you need an actual drill, not a screw driver. Also it looks like in order to hold the hole saws you would need a chuck and the driver doesn't have a chuck because it uses the same size bits for every use.
Edit: Link for cheapest drill I found on amazon that will work.

This one is advertised as making 700ftlbs.

Is this the one you would recommend? :
https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCF899B-Brushless-Torque-Impact/dp/B00WJA1J68/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479230961&sr=8-1&keywords=dewalt+torque+driver

Alright, no offense to the first commenter but we need to clearly define what we are talking about.
There isn't an "impact driver drill" I believe your talking about something like this that is a cordless electric 1/4" impact driver. It accepts 1/4" hex driver bits notice the special cut out at the base of the bit, that's what keeps it from falling out. It functions like a drill/driver until it encounters sufficient resistance then it impacts, giving increased torque(rotational force), it does not produce a hammering force(along the axis of the bit).

Now this is an impact wrench it too functions like a drill/driver until it meets resistance then it impacts adding rotational force but not hammer force. What are the differences between this and the driver we looked at earlier? First is obviously size, the wrench is bigger, and stronger, and heavier. But that's not what makes it a different tool, what makes it different is the tip, it's a square, like for putting sockets on, in this case 1/2" sockets but they make 3/8", 1/4", 3/4" and much larger!

So could you use the first tool in place of the much larger second tool? Yes! Use one of these adapters

Here's the problem tho, the first tool, the driver, makes at most 117 ft-lbs, and I believe that's stretching, the second tool, the wrench, makes 700 ft-lbs. To remove a rusty, crusty, stubborn lugnut you will need the bigger badder tool, sometimes it still won't be enough, and you'll need a breaker bar with a cheater pipe.

Now what the other commenter mentioned, the hammering force, that can be made with a few different tools. Let's start with the handheld impact driver yes it's confusing, two different tools, both called impact drivers, but this one we'll call the handheld, you hold it with one hand, and hammer it with a hammer. It has a cam mechanism that takes some of that axial force and imparts a slight (like 1/16 of a turn) rotation. It's good for stuck screws especially Phillips heads.

Another, more common tool is the hammer drill it is essentially a drill, it grips with three jaws onto the same bits as our first impact driver, or onto completely round bits, like your common drill bits but when you engage the hammer mechanism it will push its chuck forward and back rapidly, and the pressure you apply to the back of the drill hammers the bit into the material your drilling, useful for concrete/masonary work. But for real drilling power into concrete you want an SDS rotary hammer drill this bad boy only accepts SDS bits, provides it's own rotary and axial forces and will drill thru reinforced concrete like non reinforced butter.

Ok I think that about covers it, if anyone would like to add on I'd appreciate it. And remember:

Always use the right tool for the job, a hammer is the right tool for every job, and every tool can be used as a hammer!


Obviously that was sarcasm.

>The tires were put on by the mechanic so probably pneumatic tightened but I didn't think that would prevent me from loosening them manually.

huehuehue

try a breaker bar. i got tired of straining my back on tight as fuck bolts and nuts so I got this

http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCF899HB-Brushless-Torque-Impact/dp/B00WTQW7JA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1464089495&sr=8-3&keywords=dewalt+impact+wrench

I had a cheap Campbell Hausfeld and a pancake. Totally worthless. It had good power for like 3 seconds as others say.

I had the enjoyment of removing a pitman arm off of my '74 Corvette earlier this year. I invested in a DEWALT DCF899HB 20V MAX XR Brushless High Torque 1/2" Impact Wrench with Hog Ring Anvil https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WTQW7JA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LoiRzbYFQV4AR

Oh man is this impact is dangerous. If a nut wont give, it'll snap the stud instead. Ask me how I now. Plenty enough power for me.

Hey man sorry for the late reply. I use These. They are awesome. With the big battery the impact lasts forever. I've only charged it about 5-7 times in he last year. The 3/8 one can pull off a lug nut tightened to 80 ft/lbs.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WTQW7JA/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1486534851&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=dewalt+20v+impact&dpPl=1&dpID=51H9HKF-8WL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007NVSQEQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1486534851&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=dewalt+20v+impact&dpPl=1&dpID=416tDAhussL&ref=plSrch


Hope that helps.

I failed at Reddit. I meant to link the dremel 8050-n. It has a built in rechargeable battery. The only downside is the price. Dremel 8050-N/18 Micro Rotary Tool Kit with 18 Accessories https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015DVN4E4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4ROsxbNX7EJJ0

I love my Dremel's and use them for many things around the house. Here is a quick general rundown of my opinion. Avoid the one that can be powered by a vacum like a shop vac. Corded Dremels will have more torque than the battery powered ones. The first cordless I had I did not like, but the new one I love. As for corded, I believe the largest difference in models is the number of different speeds. I suggest going with one that offers a large number of speeds, as different materials require different RPMs to cut effectively. Let me know if you any other questions.

Based on the picture she sent me I’m pretty confident it’s this one

With those prices you could even splurge and get one of the quiet air compressors at that price.

To be clear, this is the type of 120v air compressor you need to seat a bead.

You can get 12v car ones with a remote tank, like thisbut they’re designed to be permanently installed in your vehicle.

But, if you don’t have any other need for an air compressor, you’re probably better off with a pump designed for seating tubeless tires like this one.

Yeah, sounds like you've eliminated things down to a problem inside the compressor itself.

TBH those types of compressors are practically just repackaged aquarium pumps, and IMO aren't what anyone should use. Even when they work, they top out at such a rock-bottom low PSI and CFM that they're basically unusable outside of one or two VERY narrow use cases. For model airbrushing, you want something a little bit stronger.

The Iwata Ninja Jet is WAY overpriced for how inherently limited it is. Return it, and get something like this or this instead (I use the latter, and can vouch for it).

Well, they didn't lie. It can create a pressure of up to 100 PSI and it can output up to 4 CFM.

However, what we need to know is how much throughput it can maintain at a given pressure level.

E.g. this one can do:

> 1.60 CFM @ 40 PSI
> 1.20 CFM @ 90 PSI

So, at 30 PSI, it can probably output around 1.8 CFM.

And this one can do:

> 3.00 CFM at 40 PSI
> 2.20 CFM at 90 PSI

Which means it would be an excellent choice.

This one is quieter. plus it has an air tank

This: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LYHYHEA?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_yo_pop_mb_pd_t2

Go for a "pancake" or "hot dog" style. They are sufficient for airing up tires and occasional tool use.

Pancake style

HotDog style

Also, in my experience, electric paint rollers are much less hassle for housepaint. Less clogging and easier cleanup.

I researched a lot of them based on reviews. I think overall for price and how happy people are with the product, this stood out to me: http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-ROS20VSK-120-Volt-Variable-Random/dp/B0018Z8D64/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1333586647&sr=8-1

It's even back down to a very good price. I bought one, which was my first Bosch tool(I'm brand agnostic), and it really exudes quality. Comes with a case, vacuum adapter, and has variable speeds for $60 shipped. Hard to beat that.

12v would be more suited for light duty mobile work like that. 18/20v would just be extra weight to haul around. Here is a good comparison of the different 12v drills: http://www.protoolreviews.com/buying-guides/best-12v-cordless-drill-roundup/25102/

I've got the Bosch drill and pocket driver and love them. Almost never use my 18v Dewalt tools any more. They reviewed the brushless version. I went with the brushed because it has more torque. $168 for the combo https://www.amazon.com/CLPK22-120-12-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Batteries-Charger/dp/B005GT0IWK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1473956737&sr=8-2&keywords=bosch+12v

A more cost effective method would be an electric duster or even a pancake compressor. That way you can get more use and versatility out of your money. If you get a compressor though make sure it is an oil-free compressor!

There is only one cordless grinder on the market that is worth owning. I'm not just being dramatic. To be useful, a grinder needs to pull a lot of power and one tool puts the rest to shame, that tool is the DeWalt 60 volt grinder. DeWalt also has a 1/2" brushless impact wrench which accepts the FlexVolt battery from the grinder. (Note that the grinder requires the 60v battery, which switches to 20v when used in a 20v tool).