Best powerline network adapters according to redditors

We found 3,241 Reddit comments discussing the best powerline network adapters. We ranked the 230 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top Reddit comments about Powerline Computer Network Adapters:

u/Deathblow92 · 106 pointsr/PS4

Powerline Adapters are a blessing. I got the two-port version so I can have my PS4 and PC plugged in at the same time.

u/DeAuTh1511 · 100 pointsr/smashbros

Get something like this. It literally runs internet through the power cables in your house. Plug one next to your router with an ethernet cable, and one near you device with an ethernet cable. Instant internet.

u/ImCakeStep · 52 pointsr/PS4

Don't use WiFi ever. Random packet loss will happen from simple interference. Its possible the two PS4s are interfering with each other.

Just use an ethernet cable to plug the PS4 into the router. If its not possible to run a cable then buy Powerline Adapters. I honestly don't know why these are not more popular. I had to use them for years until I finally had cables run throughout the house but they pretty much saved my life as I refuse to play any sort of online game with WiFi.

u/sryan2k1 · 27 pointsr/networking

802.3af/at requires a handshake to deliver power, you'd need something like this to actually get useful power out.

A simple shut/no shut on the switchport would enable/disable power.

u/Homeless_Pig · 25 pointsr/hardware

It would be much better to get a powerline adapter. It essentially allows you to use your power outlets as really long ethernet cables.

Here are some examples from Amazon: 1 2 3

I personally use the D-link ones, the speeds are much faster than Wireless.

u/Ender519 · 24 pointsr/homeautomation

I suspect it doesn't get much press because most home setups don't have PoE and the average person has no idea what it is or what it can do. PoE switches are more expensive and you have to deal with power allocation and I think for this reason a lot of home gear doesn't include it because probably a single digits percentage of users would capitalize on it.

Anyway, if you have it there are also several PoE splitters available which takes PoE in and outputs Ethernet plus USB/Lightning or other power tips at 5V or 12V depending on the splitter. So even if your device is not PoE if it is Ethernet and USB power then you're golden. They aren't expensive either.


I used these splitters to power cameras and Ring keypads and RPi's and all kinds of crap. Cheaper and easier than PoE injectors so long as you have PoE switch to begin with.

u/FightingLight · 24 pointsr/techsupport

Ethernet over Power.

It's affordable and avoids running new wires.

u/photoresistor · 22 pointsr/gadgets

I got one of these from Amazon for $52.99 to extend the range from my crappy Verizon FiOS Actiontec router. The big difference is its not a repeater, but a range extender. At best, a repeater can only boost an already poor signal, meaning a slow connection, though stronger, remains slow. The range extender actually extends the wifi network itself.

With the range extender, one end connects to an ethernet port on the router, and gets plugged into a wall socket. The other end can be plugged into any other wall socket in the house. The two ends communicate via the electrical wiring (which is basically turned into an ethernet network between the two ends. The second end broadcasts a wifi signal with faster speed than the Actiontec wifi since its driven by one of the ethernet ports. Set it up in 5 minutes and works awesome. Gives me full coverage for a 3,000 sq/ft house. Highly recommend.

u/smithincanton · 22 pointsr/homelab

Same here! They have these POE micro USB splitters that split off 5v and Ethernet for like $10 bucks. I was thinking about integrating the adapter into the sled and have keyhole jacks in the back that the sled connects to. Power and Ethernet in one connection!

Link for PoE adapter:UCTRONICS IEEE 802.3af Micro USB Active PoE Splitter Power Over Ethernet 48V to 5V 2.4A for Tablets, Dropcam or Raspberry Pi (48V to 5V 2.4A)

u/Ennis_Ham · 22 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/ewleonardspock · 22 pointsr/GoogleWiFi

Wow, literally every comment in here so far is wrong...

Yes, OP, you can use the coax in your house for networking. What you’re looking for are MoCA adapters. I use them for backhaul between my pucks and they’re just as fast as Ethernet.

The only situation where they won’t work is if you have Satellite TV. DVB-T and MoCA don’t get along. If you have cable TV, though, you’ll be fine.

u/King_Merx · 21 pointsr/PS4
u/IphtashuFitz · 18 pointsr/Ubiquiti

I recently upgraded to their 24-port PoE switch and I'm very happy with it. It's powering my now 3 UAP's & cloud key, as well as two raspberry pi's that I run pi-hole on. (I'm using these to provide power to the rasperry pi's). Aside from the cleaner wiring, it's also very handy for getting more insight into your network traffic, etc.

u/Pyrohair · 18 pointsr/heroesofthestorm

You can buy extenders that run through the house's power lines. They're called "powerline adapters". I use them in my house with my roommates where I can't have a giant UTP cable from the switch to my machine.

Here's an example:

u/DestroyYesterday · 17 pointsr/apexlegends

Get a power line adapter bro. It’s essentially hard wiring your system without the long cable. Instead, it goes through your home’s electrical cables. Super cheap and works great. I have this one I posted. Never have issues and my reception is amazing despite my router being three rooms away.

TP-Link AV1000 Powerline Ethernet Adapter - Gigabit Port, Plug&Play, Power Saving(TL-PA7010 KIT)

u/LemonLimeAlltheTime · 15 pointsr/buildapc

Do yourself a HUGE favor and get yourself an Ethernet Powerline Adapter.

It sounds expensive but you can get a decent one for $20 $36 and it works great! My Wi-Fi speeds were 1/10th of what I get with the adapter.

u/KingdaToro · 14 pointsr/Fios

FiOS uses a device called an ONT (Optical Network Terminal) that translates the incoming fiber optic signal to internet, cable TV, and phone signals that your devices can understand. It's essentially the modem. This is the "OCN" you're referring to. It has an Ethernet port, a Coaxial cable port, and two phone ports.

The internet signal can be delivered over either the Ethernet or Coaxial cable port, but any speed of 100/100 and up requires Ethernet so we don't need to even talk about using Coax for it. When Ethernet is used for internet, the Coax port only carries the TV channels.

The Ethernet port on the ONT needs to be connected directly to the WAN/Internet port on the router. This doesn't have to be a Verizon router, it will work with any router. Obviously, for gigabit service you'll need a router with gigabit WAN and LAN ports, and that can actually do routing (remember, routing does not mean Wi-Fi) at gigabit speeds. I wasn't able to find any information on the Verizon router's routing throughput.

The best FiOS router is AC1750, which means one 2.4 GHz 450mbps stream and three 5 GHz 433mbps streams. The maximum theoretical speed of a device depends on how many streams it supports: 433mbps for 1 stream, 867mbps for 2 streams, 1300mbps for 3 streams. Very few devices support 3 streams, and in real-world conditions (particularly since 5 GHz is bad at going through walls) you can expect about half of the theoretical maximum speed. So, yes, you need an Ethernet connection to the router to get full gigabit speeds. The best way to make Wi-Fi work better is not to get a better and more expensive router, but to add additional APs so that you're always close to one and can get a good signal. APs, by definition, require an Ethernet connection to the router.

Using a non-Verizon router is dead simple when you only have internet, but with FiOS TV service it becomes more complex. FiOS cable boxes get their guide and VoD data through the internet, and like anything else they have to go through the router to access the internet. They do this with the MoCA protocol, which transmits data over coaxial cables. For this to work, the router must also support MoCA, have a Coaxial cable port, and have a Coaxial cable connection to the cable boxes. Only Verizon routers have this hardware built in. You're not out of luck, though. You can still use a non-Verizon router if you get the MoCA hardware separately. You just need to get a MoCA adapter, connect the coaxial cable that would otherwise be connected to the Verizon router to its Coax In port, and connect its Ethernet port to a LAN port on your router.

u/Fairuse · 12 pointsr/Chromecast

I used the following guide for my setup.!topic/chromecast/xo_NDh5CZA8;context-place=topicsearchin/chromecast/category$3Achrome-os

The ethernet adapter I got was the Linksys USB3GIG. It is nice that the USB3GIG supports 1000Gb and has USB3.0 to take full advantage of the bandwidth in theory.

My setup cost me $29, but it can be done for $20.

Edit: I changed the amazon links since I didn't realize amazon shorten links are referral links.

u/iamwhoiamtoday · 11 pointsr/homelab

Yeah! I've been using THESE for my 1st / 2nd / 3rd generation Raspberry Pi's, hopefully the new ones take up less space / are easier to manage cables for. (Note: they work well with my UniFi PoE switches)

u/PrayerPolice · 11 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Buy a powerline adapter. It extends your wired network through your house's electrical wiring.

u/Bobsalt · 10 pointsr/raspberry_pi

UPDATE: The DM9601 USB hub is junk, the ethernet driver causes kernel panics and it appears to only be USB 1.1


Ethernet USB Hub

LED's and resistors from some kit I bought for an arduino

u/EggheadDash · 10 pointsr/Overwatch

My apartment seems to have been designed with "no one ever uses anything but wifi" in mind so they made it so the only place you could put a router was in the closet. So I have to use one of these to get internet and it's reasonably fast but will occasionally start dropping packets like a motherfucker for a few minutes until it either goes back to normal by itself or you unplug it from the wall and plug it back in. I've been in games where I've just watched myself slowly rise from about 30 ping to over 500.

u/tquill · 10 pointsr/PleX

I have mine on a powerline adapter and it works fine for me.

I've been using this one.

u/etari · 9 pointsr/interestingasfuck

This is true I actually have a Wi-Fi Powerline Extender and 3 other normal powerline adapters in my house. 2 Birds with 1 stone.

u/PixelFelon · 9 pointsr/homelab

I don't think there's any non-Cisco equipment that can do that, but you could buy a passive PoE injector. It only powers one cable, but it is cheaper than buying a whole Cisco PoE switch.

Like this: TL-PoE150S

Or you could just buy a Cisco power brick (keep in mind it needs an IEC C13 cable), which is about the same price: Cisco CP-PWR-CUBE

The Cisco IP phones are very cool, so I hope you get them working.

u/tornadoRadar · 9 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I've done that exact setup.

2 of these.

1 of these for within the barn

1 of these for inside the house:

If you want wifi out there you can do a LR:

Cameras you can use a variety. but even at 4k resolution with h264 you're at 75 mbps with 4 cameras at 30fps.

one camera option:

edit: i also suggest a battery backup to clean power up in remote buildings. esp if they're old

u/Inkstriker · 9 pointsr/smashbros

Try using a powerline ethernet solution! This let's you run your ethernet signal through your home's power system. I use it for my downstairs Dock and it works very well, no disconnects! It's a bit tricky to set up though.

Here's the one I'm using:

u/bfodder · 9 pointsr/homeautomation

For powering the Pi. Previously you would have had to use something like this.

u/YummyMeatballs · 8 pointsr/mildlyinteresting

These are great, I install them for clients all the time. Rather than extending a crappy wifi signal it runs a network through your outlets. Pop the big one near your Chromecast, little one wires in to your router downstairs.

u/showmeyourtitsnow · 8 pointsr/homelab
u/SirEDCaLot · 8 pointsr/needadvice

Nope, nothing at all. You are the first person to ever run into the problem of being too far away from your router. There is no technology to solve this problem, and there never will be. Your only solution is to tear down your parents' house and build a smaller one so you'll be closer to the router...

I kid :)

This is a very common problem and it's easy to solve. Here's a few options.

The easiest is probably a WiFi Range Extender. These work decently well at re-generating the wireless signal to increase the coverage area. Put the range extender within the area that still has good coverage, set it up correctly, and it will expand that coverage.

There are a few drawbacks though. Your signal from the range extender will only be as useful as the range extender's signal back to the base station. So if you put the range extender on the fringe of the base's coverage, then you'll see a really strong signal on your device (from the range extender) but the bandwidth will still suck (because the range extender can't make a good connection back to the base).
Also, even when this system is working perfectly, it will reduce your wireless bandwidth by 50% or more. That's because the range extender uses the same frequency to receive and then re-transmit each signal, so each packet takes double the frequency time to send- once to be transmitted, and again to be re-transmitted by the range extender. Note that this may not actually affect your Internet speed- if your WiFi is going at 300mbit/sec, and this halves it to 150mbit/sec, then it's still not a bottleneck if your cable modem is only 30mbit/sec.

A potentially more reliable option is a MoCA Bridge Kit. That takes your local network as Ethernet from your router and re-injects it back into the coax cable. The result is anywhere you have a coax jack, you can just add another MoCA unit and whammo you now have a hardwired Ethernet port. In most houses this works slightly better than WiFi range extenders since you're getting a hardwired connection. To expand your wireless range, buy both this kit and the above range extender, plug one MoCA unit into your router and the coax, the other MoCA unit into the range extender and the coax, and then set the range extender to operate as an access point (not a range extender). Set the network name and security key to be the same as on the base router, but use a different channel. This will give you the fastest and most reliable system overall. Your laptop/phone/etc will connect to whichever device is closest (base router or the range extender working as a second access point).

IMPORTANT NOTE ON MoCA BRIDGES: MoCA only works on houses that use Cable internet and TV. If your house uses Satellite TV, then there's a similar device for DirecTV called DECA. If you have cable internet and satellite TV, that means there's two coax systems in your house (one from the modem, the other from the dish) so whichever bridges you use have to be on the same system.
If you have AT&T U-Verse, none of this shit will work because they use something completely different called HPNA-over-coax that's not compatible with either MoCA or DECA.

Hope that helps! Feel free to ask if you have any questions...

u/JudgeWhoAllowsStuff- · 8 pointsr/LifeProTips

somthing like this could help depending on your need. All the fun of having ethernet in the wall except for cutting of drywall.

u/Treasy · 8 pointsr/PS4

I'm using these.

The way they work is quite simple. Plug one into an outlet near your router and insert an ethernet cord into it. Plug the other into an outlet near your ps4 and connect an ethernet cord to it.

Now you have wired internet access. No other settings required.

u/evilarhan · 8 pointsr/PS4

Unlike the other PC gamers in this thread, I'd say that rig for a PS4 is a decent deal - if you do plan on replacing your PC with something a little more powerful, as you say in another thread.

Once you pick up the PS4, what you need first and foremost is a PS+ subscription, which I think is $50 a year. Multiplayer is more or less dependent upon it (except where noted, in certain games). With the service, you also get two free games every month. So far, they've all been smaller indie titles, though the PS3 is seeing some older AAA releases. You can still make a PSN id to buy games and suchlike off the PS store.

Next, you'd probably want a second controller, especially if you're into fighting games like Mortal Kombat or Injustice. Sportsfriends, one of the free PS+ games this month, is also local MP only, and I've really enjoyed it so far.

If your WiFi is not ideal, and you don't have a LAN connection direct to the PS4, you could look into one of these.

Finally, you could look into upgrading the hard drive. 500 GB doesn't last long, since the PS4 installs all games, even ones on discs, to the hard drive. With each title clocking in between 25 and 40 GB, not to mention the two free PS+ games every month, it's gonna run out fast.

Thankfully, it's really easy to replace, as detailed here. I've heard good things on /r/PS4 about a certain 2TB Samsung hard disk, but I cannot find it right now. Or you could go for an SSD, which is faster but more expensive.

That's about all I can think of at the moment. Now for the disclaimer:

If your primary motivation for the PS4 is Destiny, you might want to hold off. I'm enjoying the game, but I would not recommend it to anyone who hasn't already tried it and decided if it's the game for them. I played the open beta for between six and eight hours before deciding to buy it. If you can, play for at least an hour or two on a friend's system before taking the leap.

I know unsolicited advice is often unwelcome, so feel free to skip the following paragraph if you want to:


You could upgrade your GPU and get a PS4 for cheaper than assembling a new rig from scratch. I'm pretty sure you could sell just the GPU for between eighty and a hundred bucks.


Cheers, and welcome to the PS family!

u/getbodied99 · 8 pointsr/Games

Here are some things you can try if you haven't already:

  1. Use ethernet the whole way. If you do this, there will be almost no latency or noticable compression. This may not be feasible for the steam link itself, but you can likely pull it off for the PC connection. The less Wifi you use, the better the picture quality is.
  2. If you can't use ethernet, try using a Powerline adapter. Essentially these things send super small electrical signals through your house's circuit (unnoticable to any of your appliances) to replace ethernet. It's not quite as fast as ethernet, but It's a hell of a lot faster than wifi and should be fine for the Link. You can only use this if your PC and Steam link are on the same circuit.
  3. If you can't use powerline either, use a 5GHz Wifi connection if you can. It has smaller range but much higher bandwidth so you won't have as much latency / compression
  4. If you're using Wifi move your modem, PC, and steam link away from large metal objects (think about what's behind your walls!). Note that the material is important here - wifi signals can travel through wood and drywall pretty easily but not aluminum.
u/IVIajesty · 8 pointsr/PS4

I can't believe that after 173 comments, no one has the explanation as to why this is the case. I guess it's finally my time to shine. Simply put, the PS3 uses a wi-fi standard that's currently in most homes today. The PS4 uses a newer, faster standard. So why is it slower then? Because most people's routers aren't upgraded to this new standard yet. Sony made the PS4's wi-fi module more future-proof, but as of now it's definitely too future-proof. There are two work-arounds to this issue. You either A) buy a router that uses the new wi-fi standard or the better option IMO, B) buy one of these genius little network powerline adapters. Why do I think the powerline adapter is better? It's cheaper than most routers that use the new wi-fi standard and it's a wired connection. You ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS, want a wired connection with your gaming devices. Save the wi-fi for your phones and tablets. Wire connections are faster and more stable than wi-fi. The network powerline adapter allows you to have a wired connection even if you don't have the ethernet wire routed to the room with your PS4.

"But wait u/IVIajesty, how does this marvelous machine pull off such a magical feat???"

It's simple young padawon. You connect the first module into the outlet and into your router. It sends the ethernet connection throughout your homes circuiting. You connect the second module into the outlet by your PS4 and into your PS4 via ethernet cable, and alakazam! The internet signal is transferred over through the rooms. It's like having a wired connection, without having a wired connection! Woo!

Bonus LPT: If you have an electronics store like Best Buy or Fry's by you, you can buy the device from them and make sure it works. If it doesn't, they have 15 day return policies. This device works in pretty much 99% of home circuiting layouts. There are a few cases where the circuiting of the home isn't compatible with this device, but it's rare. If it doesn't work, you can always return it.

Bonus-Bonus LPT: Best Buy and Fry's both price check, so if it's cheaper on Amazon or any other reputable online vender, make sure you take advantage of that to save a couple extra bucks.

Edit: Used some bolding and italics to make my comment sexier.
Edit 2: It seems as though I might've have confused standard with a different word or I might've gotten my info from an unreliable source. Crossed out the wrong info. Guess I'm not a savior after all :'(

u/caseigl · 8 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Just use a powerline ethernet adapter to move between those locations. You won't have full gigabit speed, but they have come a long long way.

This link is for the 500Mb speed, but the 200Mb (which is fine for most stuff) is only $20!

u/qupada42 · 7 pointsr/Ubiquiti

No, the 24V ones only work with the older AC-Lite and AC-LR (and the Nanobeam, etc non-UniFi products).

I've used this model TP-Link PoE injector for a 802.3af UniFi AP (AC-Pro) before and it works fine.

u/gentlemanhorse · 7 pointsr/homelab

That device does seem to be available:

The device doesn't necessarily have to be PoE capable. You could always run a PoE splitter (if it's active PoE) with an ethernet 4G modem/router

Or you can just get a PoE router and a supported 4G dongle like

u/jftuga · 7 pointsr/pihole

Can you find a display that is powered from the RPi itself? If so, then you can power the RPi from this device for $11.

Here are two comments from this Amazon page:

I bought this for a FingBox (5v 2A, micro USB) and it works great! Also hooked it up to a RPi3 with the RPi touch display. Worked just fine, but I must admit I didn't leave it running long, just booted it up. Using this w/ the FingBox saves me from using an AC outlet in my server closet which are in short supply. Must use 48V POE on the switch.

Works perfectly. My switch recognizes it as a class 3 PoE device, and typically consuming 3.1 to 3.5 watts of power. It plugged right into my pi (with a 3.5" display) and so far I have not found any problems.
The only thing I'd mention is there's no clear indication of which network connection faces the switch, and which faces the client device. I took a guess that with the male RJ45 and micro-usb cable being the same length, that was where the pi should go, and I was correct. (I include a picture of the "correct" manner of connecting it.)

Hope this helps.

u/smokeybehr · 7 pointsr/amateurradio

You could always get something like this to power it, assuming that the power requirements of the device don't exceed the rating of the adapter.

u/aimless_ly · 7 pointsr/linuxadmin

PoE adapter for only 1 cable run to the Pi and consolidated AC/DC conversion in my PoE switch for better efficiency (and UPS runtime).

u/Stickfigs · 7 pointsr/techsupport

>I just need to run one long cable to the other end of the house, attach an ethernet switch, and then hook 3 shorter ethernet cables to the switch and run them to each room?

Pretty much. Any layer 2 switch will do, think of it as an extension to the ports already on your router. No other setup is required. I doubt you will have to worry about signal degradation.

Some other alternatives to throw at you.

If there is existing coax in the rooms Moca adapters can be an option.

Powerline adapters are also a thing for empty electric sockets in the rooms, not the best for data transfer though.

Could also setup an access point near the other side of the house in place of the switch to provide wireless access and switching.

u/Xakuta · 7 pointsr/PS4

If you can't get the wifi going, powerline adapters may be a great alternative for you to provide a consistent and reliable network connection to your PS4 as long as you have outlets available near both the router and PS4.

u/scarbutt11 · 7 pointsr/buildapc

Yeah sorry.

They sell a single plug version too for about $10 cheaper.

u/LeoPanthera · 7 pointsr/Ubiquiti

You could use Powerline ethernet to connect the AP to the network without any visible wires.

u/carlyman · 7 pointsr/buildapc -- I've found better prices tho. Just plug into coax and then treat it like an ethernet port; you can have multiple adapters on the coax "network."

u/Reptylus · 7 pointsr/PS4
u/eziam · 7 pointsr/xbox360

Get a powerline. It uses the outlets and runs the signal across the electrical wires. My xbox gets about 5mbs down wifi but about 75 mbs Wired.

TP-LINK TL-PA4010KIT AV500 Nano Powerline Adapter Starter Kit, up to 500Mbps by TP-LINK

u/xi_mezmerize_ix · 7 pointsr/GameDeals

TP-LINK TL-PA4010KIT AV500 Nano Powerline Adapter Starter Kit, up to 500Mbps

u/Nerdnub · 7 pointsr/homelab

Yes, you can. You'd use a couple MoCA (Multimedia over Coax Alliance) adapters, with one on each end. This should allow you to push ethernet over your Coax. Having never done this myself, it should work fine in theory, but other factors like cable quality and length will probably come into play.

Here's a link to a pair you can purchase on Amazon: Link

u/determined_warrior · 7 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I have MoCA adapters working with Verizon FioS. Its awesome. MoCA 1.1 gives 175 Mbps shared.

I have them next to each TV (3 total). Much better than Wifi. I do not see ocassional drops I used to see with wifi earlier.

I have had ocassional (may be 4 times in 8 years) when I have to reboot the moca adapter as it got out of sync but very rock solid otherwise.

I use Actiontec MoCA 2.0 adapters - no-referral Amazon link:

u/cyllibi · 7 pointsr/GameDeals

My wireless connection was too poor for the Steam link, and I rent a room so I couldn't run ethernet through the walls. Instead, I found a good solution in using this powerline ethernet adapter.

u/MrMentat · 7 pointsr/GameDeals

I would say it is sligthly better than a chromecast. Rather than only being able use a couple streaming services from an appstore. With the steamlink, you can basically stream whatever is on your desktop.

A ethernet connection is highly recommended though. I've use these with some success.

u/Kaemonn · 7 pointsr/Rainbow6

Buy a Tp-Link I bought one a while ago and it fixed all my problems I was having.

u/wolfcry0 · 6 pointsr/AskElectronics

While you could, it's non-standard and could destroy things that are plugged into it.

It's better to get a POE adapter like this one and use it instead.

u/dhocariz · 6 pointsr/CODZombies

actually, IMO the best answer is a ethernet powerline adapter. The way this works is that it distributes the internet LAN signal through the electrical power outlets. The way this should be set up is when you purchase it you receive 2 units. 1 unit should be by the router, the other in the location of desired internet (in your case your room). It is extremely easy to set up and I was able to buy a unit for 30 bucks. I pay for 100Mbps service and constintatly have download speeds of 50 on my ps4 using this. If you go this route, which I recommend, I would make sure the unit is connected DIRECTLY to the wall, not to a powerstrip. The powerstrip acts like a "wireless booster" and reduces your speeds. IF you only have one outlet some products do have a jack built in so it doesn't even take up an outlet. Example below:

Please note I realize this one is not in the $30 range I just wanted to give you an example.

EDIT: TL;DR Poweline ethernet adapter > 1000 FT ethernet cable. Check out link for example - there are cheaper models that work great.

u/brbATF · 6 pointsr/networking

Has an led on it or add your own via usb power pins

Hope your ubiquiti switches actually provide standards-compliant Poe and not ubiquiti’s proprietary piece of shit “passive Poe”

u/mask_demasque · 6 pointsr/GameDeals

A tip if you're going to use powerline adapters: make sure the adapter is plugged in directly to the wall outlet.

I originally had the powerline adapters plugged into surge protectors since, unfortunately, my powerline adapter blocks both outlets no matter which it's plugged into. It was garbage quality so I was pretty disappointed. Then I realized that maybe there's some extra resistance or electrical hurdles from going through the surge protector. Plugged them into the walls and now I stream games from my bedroom to my living room in my apartment. Never experience any problems, though I've never tried using another intense electrical appliance while streaming. I imagine vacuuming or something like that would bring the streaming quality down.

Here's what I use:

They also have a cheaper model that doesn't block both outlets, but I read (somewhere on the internet...) that that version uses an inferior technology so it might not do it as well. I didn't really wanna take chances so I went for that model because someone else said they got steam link to work using that specific one.

u/NinjaCoder · 6 pointsr/HomeImprovement

I use a few Moca adapters to connect wired ethernet to several places in my home that do not have Cat-5/6 installed.

I routinely get 200Mbps on them, which, for me, is plenty fast for most things.

u/Jrech84 · 6 pointsr/Games

Ended up buying this one off amazon.

TP-LINK TL-PA8010P KIT AV1200 Gigabit with Power Outlet Pass-through Powerline Adapter, Up to 1200Mbps

u/Ouch_my_ballz · 6 pointsr/buildapc

I've been using a set of these Moca adapters for a few years now. If you have coax tv cable throughout your house, it will be plug and play up to 270 Mbps.

u/Weed_Me_Up · 6 pointsr/xboxone

I've used this set before at a customers house for streaming Appletv and it worked great. I wouldn't get the cheaper one.

Just make sure you don't use an extension cord on it and make sure both outlets are on the same circuit breaker (which unless you have a huge house they should be). Was easy to setup.... Plug and play.

u/Charizard9000 · 6 pointsr/buildapc

if you are living at home and/or have access to your router, consider powerline adapters instead. the jist is they let you run a wired signal over your house's power grid, rather than running a huge cable through your house.

there's a few rules about using them, but for 90% of people they work great.

if you're in a dorm or something and cant actually get to the router, than u just want a cheap pci AC adaper, something like this

u/bent42 · 6 pointsr/politics

I'm curious for a source too, but it's not at all far fetched. Scanners are tiny nowadays and could easily be put into the feed chute of a shredder. The guts of this would do nicely. Data over power lines certainly isn't a new technology. Hell. You could use a wifi scanner and not even screw with that.

I could cobble this together in my garage over a weekend probably.

Edit to fix link.

u/ReallyObvious · 6 pointsr/techsupport

Dude. Go for the ethernet through power lines adapter first(btw this is more commonly called a powerline adapter).

This one has 500 mbps, which is considerably higher bandwidth than wifi. It will also give you lower latency, and a generally more stable connection. Take it from me, I have had some TERRIBLE experiences with wifi repeaters. Powerline ftw.

Or you could go all out and get the best of both worlds. Buy one of these, another router, and a powerline adapter. Then what you do is you set it up downstairs (where you normally have your router), and have it go, modem -> ethernet switch -> old router. Then plug one end of the powerline adapter into the switch.

Then plug in the powerline adapter into the wall upstairs where you want wifi. Plug in your new router to it. Set the SSID (the wifi name of your router), as the same name as the router you have downstairs. BAM. You now have STRONG wifi anywhere in the house. Devices will automatically connect to the router with the stronger signal. It will only appear as one wifi network on phones, tablets, etc.

u/acles003 · 6 pointsr/PUBGXboxOne

These blow powerline adapters out of the water.

Actiontec Bonded MoCA 2.0 Ethernet to Coax Adapter, 2 Pack (ECB6200K02)

u/tokemon8668 · 6 pointsr/Amd

Had this same issue - still can't stand Wifi due to dropouts and latency, so bought an Ethernet over Power adapter instead. Uses your AC line to provide a solid connection to your router anywhere in the house.

u/tangobravoyankee · 6 pointsr/homelab

I keep hearing good things about these MoCA 2.0 adapters. MoCA has been around quite a while, it works, and the latest generation stuff is actually gigabit fast.

As someone who has used three generations of powerline stuff, definitely stay away from it unless you have no other alternative. On a good day I see 60Mbps from the "1,200Mbps" adapters and they need to be cold reset (unplugged) after most power flickers.

u/neatoburrito · 5 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Hardwired connection is always an option now. Can I introduce you to PowerLine technology? Use your power outlets for ethernet!

This would only not be an option if you are in different houses.

u/ShiftyAxel · 5 pointsr/3DS

Sounds like a powerline adapter with WiFi would do the job, like one of these.

It'll use your house's powerlines to transmit an ethernet signal from your router to whatever room you like (you get two boxes, one for in one for out) and then broadcast it as it's own WiFi network.

I've used an ethernet-only set for years after getting tired of wifi's latency and general crappiness. So much better!

However, make sure the power sockets being used for the input and output boxes are on the same power circuit- you can test this using your house's circuit breaker. If they both turn off when you flip one of the breaker switches, they're connected and will work.

u/ItsNotDylan · 5 pointsr/xboxone

I personally own the Netgear Powerline 1200 series of powerline adapters.

It works better than a really bad Wifi connection. I have personally dealt with some packet loss but it's definitely something I've come to deal with. Since powerline adapters rely on the copper in your power outlets, so YMMV.

u/EverGlow89 · 5 pointsr/pcgaming


I got this one

I learned about it when I was planning my PC and looking for ways around having to use wifi. thought it was too good to be true. It isn't.

u/Jemikwa · 5 pointsr/homeowners

Network cabling everywhere. Even if you aren't in tech, you'll still find tremendous use out of this. Some requirements if I were to get it done custom:

  • At least one ethernet jack per room, maybe two per room on opposite sides if I could splurge. These are called network drops.
  • For each ethernet jack, run TWO ethernet cat5/6 per drop, because if one of them breaks or fails, you don't want to be the one that has to rewire a second one from your network closet to the jack. Also useful for testing if the cable is the culprit or if your networking gear is at fault. You don't have to hook up both cables on both sides, just choose one cable per jack to connect and the other is left dangling until you need it.
  • Addendum to above, if you want to be very fancy, get ceiling mounted wireless access points and have a network drop in the ceiling where the WAP will be mounted. You can get WAPs that are powered over an ethernet cable (called Power over Ethernet, PoE) and you would need a PoE Injector with your switch equipment to supply enough power over the lines (though some network switches PoE inject by default, so look for those if you want convenience), or you can wire another power outlet to where the WAP will go in parallel to the network drop that should be there too. Unless your home layout is convoluted, one, maybe two WAPs per floor is sufficient, usually in the common areas of each floor. Too many will cause interference with each other and you'll have a bad wifi signal. You can go with consumer grade TPLink or Netgear (ceiling mounted, remember, not just any old wireless router), or go with a more enterprise Ubiquity WAP (what we use).
  • Find a good spot for your networking gear, preferably near your home "demarc" AKA where your internet comes into the house at. Or, move the demarc into a closet for easier access. Have a patch panel set up that all of the network drops from the rooms connects to, and then you would connect each jack on the patch panel to a network switch, which then has one uplink (connection) to your home modem/router. Of course, the patch panel and network switch have to have at least as many ports as you have network drops to rooms, so if you have 16 drops, you'll have to get a 16 port patch panel and a 16+1 port switch (+1 because you have to have one connection to your uplink router/modem).
  • Not 100% necessary, but if you like having internet during power outages, or just momentary power in general during an outage, get a UPS or two or four... It will provide battery backup power to whatever is plugged into it for a certain amount of time, depending on the electrical load (how many devices you have plugged in, and how much power each device uses). I personally have 4 UPSs all around the house. One for the bedroom, and our phone chargers are plugged into them so we still have charged phones if a power outage happens overnight; one for our desktop computers (avid gamers :P); one for our networking equipment (power spike usually means you lost your internet and it has to reboot. I haven't had to deal with since getting a UPS unless the outage lasts for longer than 30-45 minutes!); and one for the living room TV setup and consoles. If you could only get one, I'd recommend it for the networking gear so you still have internet during momentary spikes. Useful for cell phones and laptops!

    This turned out longer than I expected, so if anything is confusing or you want more details, let me know!
u/Euphorya · 5 pointsr/Steam_Link

I'm having great success with my power line adapters I highly recommend them. I've heard people are having problems with the older generation powerline adapters though. Definitely go with 1200Mbps or faster.

These have been working great for me:

u/The_Abyss136 · 5 pointsr/FortNiteBR

You can use it on console. You stick one of these into an outlet near your router, connect them with an ethernet cable, then plug the other one into an outlet near your computer, then connect that to your console with another ethernet cable. These things take advantage of the wiring throughout your house and can send an internet signal through the lines on a different frequency than the power uses.

Here's the link:

u/JoeB- · 5 pointsr/googlefiber

Why not try powerline network adapters? Something like TP-Link AV1000 1-Port Gigabit Powerline Adapter, Powerline speeds Up to 1000Mbps (TL-PA7010 KIT). These adapters will use the house electrical wiring to extend the Ethernet network from your network box upstairs to the PC downstairs.

u/Kraphtyone · 5 pointsr/pelotoncycle
  1. Immediately! You don’t spin classes before, so you know what to expect. If the LB worries you, touch it and it’s gone from the screen. I low live classes, and think this is where the bike shines.

  2. Absolutely. It will take a few weeks, but if you are controlling your diet and don’t increase calories with the peloton use, you will see a definite change!

  3. Not qualified to answer—but can’t hurt to try!

  4. You will be louder than the peloton if you have headphones on. The belt drive and magnetic resistance combined make a tiny, almost inaudible hum. Your breathing will be louder.

  5. Hardwire. Your options are either the long cord, or a power line adapter. They work great!

  6. Not spin class, but gym. Tell them you’re moving?
u/Darkblister · 5 pointsr/buildapc

If you're willing to spend $75 on a card then just get this. Assuming your house isn't age old, this will give you much more consistent internet connection and stronger

u/Cyrix2k · 5 pointsr/homelab

That's cheaper at $15 and offers selectable output of 5/9/12 volts, perfect for a fan. I used it with it's splitter counterpart to power a switch in a drop ceiling and it works great - I can't comment how well it works with a PoE switch, but it claims it is 802.3af compliant.

u/wbgraphic · 5 pointsr/DIY

How far is the shed from the house?

You have a few options:

  • Bury a conduit with ethernet

  • Wifi router or access point in shed with a high-gain directional wifi antenna

  • Powerline adapters

  • WiFi range extender

    Fastest, most reliable would be wired, of course. Also the most labor-intensive.

    Directional antenna could work well, assuming the shed has good line-of-sight to your existing wireless router.

    Powerline may or may not work (or work reliably), depending on how power is wired to the house and shed.

    Wifi extender would likely be slowest, and performance will be dependent on finding the right placement for the extender. It needs to be in range of your wireless router and the shed.
u/ChurnYourObsidian · 5 pointsr/raspberry_pi

UCTRONICS IEEE 802.3af Micro USB Active PoE Splitter Power Over Ethernet 48V to 5V 2.4A for Tablets, Dropcam or Raspberry Pi (48V to 5V 2.4A)

u/BE_Airwaves · 5 pointsr/RocketLeague

Micro-stuttering and high ping spikes are usually caused by packet loss, which often has to do with shitty WiFi. Some games seem to handle poor connections worse than others. I had a similar experience with Titanfall 2.

I resolved in by plugging in Ethernet. It's not a convenient solution, but since the connection issues are coming from you, there's nothing the devs can really do.

If you don't have an ethernet port in your room, try a Powerline adapter. (Not an affiliate link or anything, just an example of the cheapest one you can get)

You get two adapters. Plug one into a wall outlet near your modem and plug an ethernet cord into it. Then you plug the other one into a wall outlet near your computer/xbox/PS4, and plug an ethernet cable from it into your machine. It basically turns your powerlines into a giant ethernet cable. It's not as fast as direct, but it's a million times better and more reliable than WiFi.

u/Buelldozer · 5 pointsr/Roku
u/triferatu · 5 pointsr/homelab

I purchased one of these for a project. Seemed to work well with the pi.

UCTRONICS IEEE 802.3af Micro USB...

u/badillin · 5 pointsr/pcmasterrace

2 story house? id forget about wifi and get a bunch of powerline adapters like this one:

u/jfarre20 · 5 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I recommend MOCA 2.0 over those. I have a bunch at home and they work very well. However, You do need coax run to where you are planning to put your stuff - and it works better when you run it detached from the cable tv network.

edit:fixed url

u/Opticine · 5 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/Tiinpa · 5 pointsr/buildapcsales

Eh, they're cheap enough just to try it. This is the set I went with.

u/FFFan15 · 5 pointsr/PS4

check out a thing called Powerline Adapter its basically a wired connection through your existing powerlines in the walls its convenient because you don't have to stretch a long Ethernet cord all the way to your console

u/NATOFox · 5 pointsr/SmashBrosUltimate

TP-Link TL-PA4010KIT AV600 Nano Powerline Adapter Starter Kit, up to 600Mbps

I'm not saying you should do this. I'm saying you might have an option you weren't aware of.

u/4wh457 · 5 pointsr/Windows10

So you're essentially using wifi because the extender is wirelessly connected to your router and that's the most likely culprit here. If you can't pull a direct cable from your PC to your router then the next best thing is powerline ethernet.

u/xTBain · 5 pointsr/PS4

You can probably try a powerline adapter. This one will run you about $40.

u/safhjkldsfajlkf · 5 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Well you can use the defective cat5e cable as a fish to pull a new cable run. You need to detach/destaple it, and redo the job. Depending on the run, it might be difficult, but it's the only way to get gigabit.


If you have 100mbps internet or less, you won't see a difference as long as you're not copying files across the devices. Use your cable tester on your cat5e cable, if you have at least 4 good pins, rewire those to pins 1,2,3,6 (from left to right on the connector).

If you don't have 4 good wires, well you need to rerun anyway.

There's always powerline adapters, but those are hit or miss. Make sure you have a good return policy (Walmart).



u/stravant · 4 pointsr/talesfromtechsupport

> Oh man, now I kinda want to see someone pull this one off.

This witchcraft is pretty awesome

u/mrteapoon · 4 pointsr/buildapc

No worries, I just clicked the little snoo on PCPP :)

If you want a build to grow on, this is a great place to start. Lots of flexibility for a CPU upgrade, solid power supply that will last a few builds, you definitely hit the sweet spot.

The only thing I would personally change would be swapping the wireless adapter for a power line adapter, like this.

I've used a similar model for a few years and have always been pretty pleased. No desire to go back to wifi anytime soon.

u/OmarTheTerror · 4 pointsr/PleX

Ok, so you basically setup a router behind another router?

In your situation, you've created a second network, and what you want to actually do is setup your router as a bridge.

Just google your "routermodel# + bridge" and you should get some step by step instructions. Here's a general how-to

Hopefully your router is capable of being configured this way

edit: easiest way would be buy a powerline adapter and just use your router as an access point.

u/michrech · 4 pointsr/Ubiquiti

You don't need a PoE switch -- most of Ubiquiti's APs come with an injector, and if the one you end up with doesn't for some reason, gigabit injectors are readily available (and don't need to be UBNT branded).


The UAP-AC-PRO or UAP-nanoHD are probably the two you'll want to consider, especially if you plan on getting 3x3 wireless clients down the road (if you don't have any already). :)

u/crazyk4952 · 4 pointsr/Boise

If you think the problem is with your wifi, try picking up a pair of power line adapters.

For $20, they let you run Ethernet over your power lines. I use several in my old home in the North End and they work great for me.

u/fuzzydice_82 · 4 pointsr/de

ich hab die hier bestellt, zusammen mit diesen PoE Injektoren.
Ich find sie ganz gut für den Preis. Können eben das was ich wollte (PoE, Nachtsicht, FullHD, Motionsensor], und bei amazon hätt ich sie auch problemlos umtauschen können wenn ich sie nicht gut gefunden hätte. Du brauchst allerdings entweder ein DVR-System mit dem du die Cams koppeln kannst, oder einen Windowsrechner mit etwas Festplattenplatz auf dem die Software dazu läuft (ich hab nen kleinen Server mit diversen VMs im Keller, der übernimmt das bei mir) wenn du aufzeichnen willst - das Kameramodell hat keine internen Speichermöglichkeiten. Cloudintegration geht wohl auch, hab ich aber nicht aktiv.

Bonus: Obwohl Chinakram funken die Geräte scheinbar nicht nach hause. Mein Wireshark meldet nichts Verdächtiges.

u/Chazay · 4 pointsr/buildapc

I recommend getting this over the Wireless Adapter.

u/Syde80 · 4 pointsr/raspberry_pi

I'll just leave this right here...

u/benegrunt · 4 pointsr/homeassistant

That's been possible for quite a while. Here ya go, 30 bucks for a pack of 4. They're actual 802.3af compliant pass-through splitters, not the ghetto "passive PoE" variety.

Probably even cheaper on Aliexpress, Banggood etc - this one's even a prime item.

u/LostVector · 4 pointsr/wyzecam

This one is working really well for me.

UCTRONICS IEEE 802.3af Micro USB Active PoE Splitter Power Over Ethernet 48V to 5V 2.4A for Tablets, Dropcam or Raspberry Pi (48V to 5V 2.4A)

u/big_phat · 4 pointsr/SSBM

I use this one and it’s pretty good. I only get 20 mbps up/down with it when I usually get 100 mbps up/down wired directly to my router but ping is pretty consistently good

u/killerhurtalot · 4 pointsr/xboxone

There's no wifi adapters that'll work with Xbox one since there's no drivers for it...

And instead of running a 60 feet wire, why not just get a powerline like this?

It'll just run the signal through the copper power lines in your house and come out as a ethernet connection on the other adapter to plug into your console.

u/Shaymon · 4 pointsr/destiny2

My entire house is powerline adapters and I love them! I never have any issues with latency. They are very easy to set up as well. pretty much plug and play.

I use the TP Link ones from Amazon.

The only issue I ever have is once in a while(Like every few months) I will drop a connection on one so I need to unplug it and plug it back in. However, I also have another brand in the mix and that may be causing that issue. So...Yeah, pick them up IMO, they are amazing.

Edit- My house was built in the late 70's as far as my power grid goes... Again, no issues.

u/AntecWidow · 4 pointsr/buildapc

Try one of these as you will get a faster and more stable connection

u/Docmcfluhry · 4 pointsr/buildapc

It's essentially two adapters. You plug an ethernet cord from your router into one, and then plug that into your wall outlet.

You plug the other into a wall outlet near your PC, and run an ethernet cable from that, to your PC.

Faster than Wifi, and runs on magic or some shit. Amazon has one on sale right now:

u/buddybd · 4 pointsr/GlobalOffensive

I used to use QoS using Tomato firmware on an ASUS RT N-16. It made things better but it wasn't even close to perfect.

I got myself a pair of Powerline adapters and connected it directly to the router. I highly recommend you do the same. I used this setup after I moved and didn't set up QoS.

I use this:

The cheaper one needed to be restarted once/twice a day. This one I never had to.

u/anglophoenix216 · 4 pointsr/Stadia

Even 2 gig ones, which is the theoretical limit!

u/winterforge · 4 pointsr/PS4

I use this on my PS4 and it more than doubled my speed from when I was trying WiFi.

Very easy to install, then you choose wired connection instead of wireless. Best thing I've done for my PS4. I get the same speeds now as if I was plugged directly into the modem.

u/VortexMagus · 4 pointsr/Competitiveoverwatch

If you're having issues with ping and bandwidth from wireless, try powerline adapters. They run data through your wiring by slightly altering the frequency the electricity is going through. They're fast, fairly reliable (not perfect, but FAR better than wireless), and resolved all of my ping and bandwidth issues, allowing me to play several rooms away from the ethernet adapter without significant ping difference or internet speed issues.

Also helped my parents resolve the problem of poor wireless reception on the bottom floor of their house (their wireless router is on the third floor).

u/theadventuringpanda · 4 pointsr/pcmasterrace


Is the most amazing thing I've bought. I didn't think it'd work well but I'm getting my max upload and download speeds without any connection issues like I do with wifi. (Router is downstairs I'm upstairs) also bought mine at Frys.

u/thilehoffer · 4 pointsr/firstworldproblems

I use a TP-link poweline adapter. It works great for streaming and gaming.

u/azgoodaz · 4 pointsr/xboxone

You would like to get:

  1. Access Point
  2. Adapter

    This will give coverage to your whole house. It will run you about ~ $60 dollars.
u/dahooddawg · 4 pointsr/PS4

So I sent my ps4 in and they sent me a new one and the problem still existed, I ended up getting power line adapters( to make my ps4 have a wired connection using my powerlines, and now it's super fast. 18-19 mbps when my connections is 20mbps.

u/mp3three · 4 pointsr/HomeImprovement

One thing to keep in mind is your speed is going to be only as fast as the slowest point. Since you didn't mention it, I'd recommend physically connecting a computer to the router and seeing what kind of speeds you get you of that. If your ISP just isn't delivering on the high speed, going super fast inside the house won't get you anywhere (unless you do a lot of file transfers inside the house).

I don't know what kind of building materials are used in your house, but the majority of the time wifi will work just fine. For myself, I started with a set of Powerline Adapters, but was relatively unimpressed with them. Your wiring may work better though, try them out and keep your receipt.

I ended up using just regular wifi for my setup, and since I am only paying for 100 down, it is more than fast enough. The adapter I got has big antenna, and going through a few walls isn't an issue at all. Whole lot cheaper (and less effort) than trying to run some wires over to where my office is. Strangely, I get better / more consistant performance out of the regular wifi channels rather than the 5ghz too. Still goes faster than my internet, so I don't care

u/TheDyingSun · 4 pointsr/pcgaming

It sends the signal over the power lines.

You plug them into electrical sockets. Some are better than others. You definitely want to do research before buying.

I use some that work flawlessly, except they disconnect every once in a while, and take a few minutes to reconnect. The signal is great over a pretty long distance, and the speeds are as advertised.

u/HWTechGuy · 4 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Something like this. Basically, it will let you run an ethernet connection via coax.


I am sure others can chime in regarding the specifics of setting it up with your Comcast service. I haven't had Comcast or run MOCA in years, but it did work very well when I did.


u/srbman · 4 pointsr/PS4

Unless you get a Slim or Pro, your best option is an Ethernet Wall plug adapter (something like this). It would help you get a wired connection without moving the router or PS4.

u/dauntlessTech · 4 pointsr/HomeNetworking

MOCA is worth the investment. You just need a cheap router from goowill to blanket the house with WiFi. I use this one

u/LurkerRex · 4 pointsr/pcmasterrace

This is the exact one I use. It does its job. There are also powerline adapters that are supposedly pretty great. I don't have a set up that would work with them, but I've seen them recommended plenty of times.

u/YaztromoX · 4 pointsr/PS4

Two options:

  1. Get a set of Powerline Ethernet Adaptors. These allow you to run ethernet through the existing power lines in your home (without impacting their ability to deliver power), or
  2. Get an external WiFi ethernet adaptor. This will plug into your PS4s ethernet jack, and will then connect to your WiFi router. A decent such adaptor is likely going to have better WiFi than is built into the PS4 (and you may be able to find one that has a better antenna as well).

u/ernthedon · 4 pointsr/HomeImprovement

You should consider using one of these. I use one to have Ethernet hard wired to my PC in my home office which is not near the router. Speed is legit.

u/catalyst518 · 4 pointsr/TagPro

Use an ethernet cable if you are able.

If you have access to your router, you can try changing the channel settings to minimize interference with other nearby networks. Wifi Analyzer is an app you can use to find the best channel.

If the issue with ethernet is the distance to your router, you could look into something like these:

Plug one into your router and then plug in the other one wherever you play in your house and you'll get all the advantages of an ethernet cable.

u/Sullacuda · 4 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Unless the cabling has been cut or otherwise disconnected inside the walls you most certainly should be able to use MoCa adapters to bridge ethernet through any available coax outlet in your apartment. I use actiontec double bonded moca 2.0 adapters and get ~980mbps across the existing coax in our house.

Useful to run ethernet from fiber terminal in the front of the house to a switch in the back that provides ethernet to server, two smartTvs, nas, printer and an AP providing signal to outdoor cams

u/Novalok · 3 pointsr/techsupport

What you might want to look into are power line adapters. Something like this.

What these do is allow you to use the existing wiring in your house via wall plugs. You plug one in by the modem/router and plug a cable in. Then plug the second half by your Xbox with a short cable from it to the Xbox.

Sounds about perfect for your situation 😊

u/Zer0Grey · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

You can try something like this:

It lets you run the internet through your power lines. You may see more or less success with this depending on if appliances disrupt your signal. The one I linked is pricey but they sell similar devices for around $30.

u/MaximumDoughnut · 3 pointsr/Edmonton

I had Wyze cameras and had 3D printed outdoor housings but the quality wasn't great at night after our last run in.

Went Ubiquiti. Three G3-FLEX cameras (four tonight) and ran some CAT6 with a powerline adapter for the camera you see above. I'm runing the UniFi Video software on an old Mac mini with a 5TB USB HD but I'm strongly considering one of their CloudKey Gen 2+ to dedicate specific hardware for the cameras/network.

The interface is fantastic, the camera quality is fantastic (they also offer a 4K camera though $$$), and security hardened. I like the idea of them being wired to take that busy constant video traffic off of wifi.

Edit: added links

u/soggypaw · 3 pointsr/LonghornNation

These work well also.

u/Android8675 · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Drop the wireless, buy pair of powerline adapters, wired connections, even ones that borrow your powerlines will usually net you better gaming ping times, etc.

Edit, ouch, downvoted, was only trying to help, Wireless is a horrid technology, and some people feel it's the only option. I'm here to tell you Powerline is the wave of the future. Obivously not for everyone, but I just upgraded my system in my bedroom and I'll never go back to wireless.

u/OmniDeath · 3 pointsr/buildapc

I've had a Netgear set for years and they've always worked in the apartments I've lived in.

Not sure if this is the exact set I have, but it's the same idea.

u/p0ke55 · 3 pointsr/SSBM

i haven't had any issues with ping spikes - definitely a huge improvement over wifi. setup is usually just plugging them into a socket and hooking up an ethernet cable to your router/computer

i use this one, mostly because it's for 2 prong sockets:

u/feh1325 · 3 pointsr/xbox360

I don't know if this counts as cheap, but I use this and it's great.

u/ryao · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Get a Ubiquiti ER-X for routing and a used Zoneflex 7962 with a tplink poe injector for wifi:

That is $114.34 in total.

Those will be cheaper and work better than many of the combination units. Be sure to enable the smart queue on the ER-X so that your gaming pings remain low even if you are doing background downloads.

Setting up the ruckus unit will require resetting it before you can log into it. The reset is a bit cumbersome, but once you have done it and have set it up, you will love it. It's radio technology is years ahead of anything that you will encounter on the market (despite that being a 802.11n model). It shines when the radio waves are congested or you try going far from the AP. I have gotten a usable 2.4Ghz wifi signal on my cellphone from a ruckus 7982 at 300ft away with 2 walls obstructing the signal. :)

u/afig2311 · 3 pointsr/shittyaskscience

Actually, they are. But not like the example in this picture.

u/ragingcomputer · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

I'm a really big fan of Hikvision cameras. They feel really solid for the price and image quality is very good. I'm looking pretty hard at an Amcrest for my next cam. They're getting decent reviews for the price too.

If you do get a Hikvision, look closely at whether the seller is an authorized distributor. I've gotten a grey-market camera and it was ok, but for a few $ more you can also get support and english firmware updates.

For myself, I have one of these in my garage

I have one of these on my front porch.

I have one of these powering them both NETGEAR ProSAFE FS108PNA

An unfinished basement and vinyl siding makes mounting exterior cams more tolerable.

For setup / testing, I keep one of these around TP-LINK Gigabit PoE Injector TL-PoE150S

I've also installed many more cameras for friends and family.

One 16 cam setup used a dedicated Hikvision DVR unit, DS-7716NI-SP/16-2TB. It has the PoE switch built in. Setup was pretty quick and he's still really happy with it. Runtime on a 1500VA UPS is pretty respectable too.

  • 1x DS-2CD2132F-I-4MM
  • 10x DS-2CD2032-I-4MM
  • 1x DS-2CD2232-I5-4MM
  • 4x DS-2CD2112F-I-2.8MM

    I've got a buddy with 8x DS-2CD2032-I-4MM powered by a Passive 10/100 Power over Ethernet PoE Injector. He's having pretty good luck with that setup.

    At work we install mostly Axis cameras, but we're trying 24 Avigilon cameras for one section of student housing. They seem pretty well built too. This is a mostly positive post, the only cameras I HATE are made by Arecont Vision.

    If you haven't decided on software, I've got an opinion on that too.

    I'm running Milestone XProtect Go on a spare PC. It's free for up to 8 cameras, up to 5 days of retention, no charge for the clients. I am familiar since I manage an XProtect Enterprise install at work, but it can be a pain to set up at first.

    I've also played with Blue Iris and ZoneMinder. I think Blue Iris is the way to go for most folk.
u/draxenato · 3 pointsr/cordcutters

Will your roommates be able to afford their own service if you stop paying nearly half of it ?

Rather than sell the souls of your as yet unborn children to Verizon, have you thought about ethernet over power ?

u/i_got_jiggy_with_it · 3 pointsr/homedefense

Just for reference, here is an example PoE injector. Not being limited to batter opens up options if you can run the wire:

I don’t have any camera recommendations for you. But I did have a really shitty night camera for awhile. I ended up setting up an external IR light to make up for it:

So that’s something to keep in mind if you are unhappy with whatever you get or want lighting from another source

u/needanacc0unt · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Most likely just the blue/white blue pair will be connected if you only have one phone line(it could be anything, but I think the blue pair is most common). You can replace the wall plates with a keystone plate and punch a cat 5 block onto the existing cable.

On the other end you will need to have something connected to it, but you could get creative if you don't want to have the router/modem in the closet near the existing box.

What I mean is you can plug the router into any of those ports in any room, and then terminate all of those lines in the box with an RJ45 plug and add a switch in the box.

But wait? There's no power in there! Precisely! You can get a TP link PoE injector (router side) and a Netgear switch with a "PD" port which will be powered by the 12v PoE voltage.

u/memebuster · 3 pointsr/amazonecho

This link is just an example.

For Echo I would consider making my own by cutting the end off of the Amazon power brick and splicing the ends into a network cable, RJ45 male end and RJ45 female end.

Edit: here's someone that made their own somewhat ghetto power injector. Same idea.

u/ImaginaryCheetah · 3 pointsr/homesecurity

your camera is POE. you cannot power it directly from your PC.

if your regular wifi router is not POE, it will also not power the camera.

you need a POE power injector, such as :

however, you describe lights coming on, so i'm assuming you've got it powered up....


most IP cameras will boot up into their default IP address.

this should be in the documentation included w/the cam.

whatever your cameras default IP is, your computer needs to be in the same domain.

if camera is as default, your computer needs to be 192.168.1.X

you'll set your computer to that IP address, and then connect the network port through your POE injector and connect to the camera. you should see it then.

once you can log into the camera, you can set the IP address to whatever the rest of your network uses.

u/tylerrobb · 3 pointsr/KingOfTheHill

You should try out an ethernet over powerline alternative!

u/zakabog · 3 pointsr/techsupport

Where is your router currently positioned? It could be simply a matter of too great a distance from your devices, 5GHz would give you more bandwidth if you already have a strong signal, but if you have a weak signal it will only get worse.

If you want 5GHz then pickup an 802.11ac compatible Wireless Access Point, and hard wire that to your current router, position it well for your TV to get a good signal. Also, for the Steam Link, you'll want to hard wire that to your router if possible, running it over wireless is far from ideal. Another option is going straight with a Powerline adapter and hard wire your devices with that (possibly wire that to a cheap 5 port gigabit switch and then connect your TV and Steam Link directly to the switch.)

u/RebaBurrito · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

If you're able to, I'd recommend using a powerline adapter. It's essentially allowing for a wired connection through outlets.
I use it because I'm so far from my router and went from ~10 on wireless to the ~20 I'm paying for.

u/TheFamousDoodleberry · 3 pointsr/gaming

Have you checked out powerline at all?

u/tiredofthisshit2017 · 3 pointsr/Hue

TP-Link Gigabit Ethernet PoE Splitter Adapter (TL-PoE10R)

Adjustable voltage too so you can use them for multiple devices. I use them to power a 5 port switch too.

u/alez · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

If you want to use your CAT5 how about a "real" PoE splitter?

You just need to replace the switch in your central location with an PoE switch or use PoE injectors.

u/fuckfinally · 3 pointsr/cordcutters

Power over ethernet is probably the cheaper, simpler and more reliable way to power the HDHR. So the cable run would go Ethernet switch > PoE injector > Cat 6 cable > PoE splitter > HDHR. The cost for both the injector and splitter should be less than $50.

Here's an example of a splitter:

u/ShittyTech_Support · 3 pointsr/Ubiquiti
u/Nexdeus · 3 pointsr/hardwareswap

Same price on Amazon, they usually get my orders right.

u/FairDevil666 · 3 pointsr/Ubiquiti
u/StayFrosty7 · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Nah that's just pure Ethernet. An Ethernet powerline allows you to connect to Internet via wall plugs. Just plug one module in near the router and another near you, one connected to your router and the other to your PC. Much more reliable than wifi, although it won't solve your phone problem. Although I guess you could connect that end to an extender? Well here's one for example:

u/dandu3 · 3 pointsr/buildapc

I'd try out this powerline kit. It's more reliable than Wifi, and better for gaming (and pretty much better overall)

Get the 3 port one if well, you need 3 ports

u/imadethis2014 · 3 pointsr/techsupport

Don't re-wire your phone plugs to be Ethernet unless they are all home-run (meaning each jack goes to the basement, and not daisy-chained together) Also, I would only consider this if they are CAT5e runs (not CAT5 or CAT3, or simply phone wire)

You could use any of these other options...

u/vaynebot · 3 pointsr/GlobalOffensive

Yep it's your WLAN. With an ethernet cable or power-line networking (something like this no idea if that particular model is good, but something like that) your issues will likely go away. If you need to use wlan, it could be a variety of things. If the signal is just erratic, you could try putting your router closer to your PC or install a signal repeater (another router). It could also be that your router is bad, or your WLAN adapter is bad. You'll have to find that out. If your adapter is bad, the best thing you can do is probably to buy a cheap $35 router, install OpenWRT on it, set it to client mode and use it as an adapter. (You can put the router in your room and connect your PC over an ethernet cable to it.) That requires a bit of reading and configuring though, not everyone's thing.

u/cjalas · 3 pointsr/homelab
u/Sedorox · 3 pointsr/sysadmin

This is going into /r/homelab territory, but I've gotten a few of these guys to power some Pis, gateways, etc, from my switch at home. They can be used to power anything that's USB.

At work, in the theater, there's some iPads mounted on the walls for the sound system (you can remotely control the faders and such). They have a small PoE to USB-A brick inside, which run back to the sound cabinet where a small trendnet PoE switch lives. keeps then charged, but also cycles some battery when you turn the rack off.

Another thing to keep in mind that as the switch is powering more, it's going to take more power, which means you may need a larger UPS.

u/FMA1394 · 3 pointsr/techsupportgore

actual throughput:
"Let’s take a look at some benchmarks that demonstrate these issues. When SmallNetBuilder reviewed the Netgear Nano 500, they found that it peaked at a downlink speed of 134 mbps, while the TrendNet peaked around 120 mbps. But there’s a catch. That speed was measured when the adapters were plugged into the same wall outlet, minimizing any risk of attenuation or noise. When the adapters were plugged in on two floors at opposite ends of a home, throughput dropped to 49.6 mbps for the Netgear and 50.2 mbps for the TrendNet."

u/CEngelson · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

You should try powerline adapters. You won't get quite the same speed as a hard wired connection, but it is a whole lot better than wireless. I have a few in my house, and they work great!

u/[deleted] · 3 pointsr/chartercable

It's possible to have two different internet services at the same address, but have you thought about powerline networking? It would be a simpler and cheaper solution

u/utmba_72 · 3 pointsr/GameDeals

We used powerline in our old house just fine, but circuits and appliances caused issues in our current home. I found that a MoCA adapter worked much better for us than the powerlines ever did. Here's an article on powerline vs MoCA if you're interested.

u/koalificated · 3 pointsr/PS4

Get these:

You hook one up to an outlet by your PS4 and another in an outlet by your router, connect the ethernet cables and then you've got a wired connection without having to run a 100 ft ethernet cable across your house. I couldn't play with my friends on Destiny using wifi a few months ago, but then I got these and they work great.

u/nashkara · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

Rather than 3D print something, maybe consider something like this ( It's what I'm planning to do. Mix it with a POE adapter ( for power and it should be great.

u/v-_-v · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

If you can run an ethernet line alongside the coax, that will be your best bet. If you cannot, look at MoCA adapters. They are a bit more expensive, but generally work a whole lot better than powerline does.

See, powerline uses the electrical wires in your home, and depending if they are any decent (most times they are not), or if you have a lot of stuff going through the same breaker, or just usage on the line, the communication between powerline adapters will be shitty.

You cannot tell before hand if they will work (powerline) and just have to try.


Having a coax line already run, if you can use that one, you can just have two devices at each end that translate ethernet into coax and back again. This is what MoCA adapters do.

These should do the trick.

If you have a good store where you can return stuff, the you can always try powerlines and see if they work, else return for MoCA...

u/obscureEraser · 3 pointsr/PS4

I had the same problem. I bought a Powerline adapter, specifically this one. It's the best thing ever if your router is in a different room.

u/Fire_Storm · 3 pointsr/homelab

good powerline adapters can be a much better option than wifi

u/TheLastOne0001 · 3 pointsr/PS4

You could always try a power line adapter

Here is the one I use

u/elichondo · 3 pointsr/pcgaming

> My folks doesnt want me punching holes in their newly built house.

If you get AT&T and they have to bring a new line inside the house, they'll have to drill whatever holes they need AND you would need to run an Ethernet cable from the AT&T modem into the attic, and then into the wall into your room and you'd have to cut a hole into the wall and patch the cable in, well if you want ethernet. I had to do something similar for a friend's apartment and put one of these in the wall:

OR you can buy some powerline adapters and see if that works to bring internet to your room. Like this:

Running ethernet cables in the attic is much easier in a 1 story house, you just have to watch your footing and only step on the rafters, otherwise you'll fall through the ceiling. If you're in a 2 story house then good luck, not happening.

Powerline adapters are probably your best bet.

u/bothunter · 3 pointsr/techsupport

There are Ethernet over Coax adapters available. There appears to be a MoCA standard which gives you 270mbit over existing coax:

u/harman_B · 3 pointsr/homelab

I had the same problem. I have COAX running throughout my house already and did not want to drill holes and patch drywall so I bought some MOCA adapters and I have been very impressed! I hooked one up to the router and now I have "ethernet" everywhere there is a coax port. Basically all you do is split the coax going into your modem, run one coax to the modem from the splitter and the other coax goes to the moca box . Then you plug an ethernet cable into the router from the moca box. Then you take the other box and take it to wherever you want ethernet and plug the box in, connect the coax to the wall and the ethernet from the box to the device you want to connect.

u/Kv603 · 3 pointsr/networking

Make them buy PoE splitters, the cheap kind with USB 5V output and no pass-through capability.

That way they have a "filter" for their devices, and can also charge their cell phones :)

u/saibot76 · 3 pointsr/ADSB

This is currently just my mounting mock up. My internals consist of a pi, RTL-SDR, an LNA and a PoE -> Ethernet/Micro USB splitter (something like this: ) I'll be running some Outdoor rated/UV Stable/Direct Bury Cat 6 up to the housing for power & data once it's up at the top.

u/chapel_py · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Your build is amazing, the only issue i see here is from the 'Wireless network adapter'. Think about it, you have this workhorse of a PC that can do anything, play any game, render/compress anything. However we are throttling it by purchasing a cheap $10.00 'WiFi USB Adapter'. If you plan on playing games you need a hard line connection, if you cannot get a hardline connection from your PC to your Router, use this:
Its called a "PowerLine" its the middle of the road between WiFi and a hard-line connection, its easily your best bet,

Here is a video explaining what a "PowerLine" is:

u/Nyyarlethotep · 3 pointsr/PS4

You don't even need to spend 50. I'll link the one I have below. I love this thing! When I used to work tech support for Square-Enix, I used to recommend powerline adapters all the time. Basically in layman's terms, powerline adapters run your internet signal through the wiring in your house. You plug one side in by the router and plug it in via an Ethernet cord, then you plug the other adapter by your ps4 and hook it up via Ethernet. I jumped from like 15 mbps to 40. It requires zero set up other than that. I even have mine running to another router I have on my desk, so I have great wireless signal in my room. The ps4 unfortunately has the same wireless card as some of the Windows tablets. It was a huge step down from the ps3.

u/checkmarshall · 3 pointsr/GTAV

Agreed. But I got these: TP-LINK TL-PA2010KIT AV200 Nano Powerline Adapter Starter Kit, up to 200Mbps

u/RansomOfThulcandra · 3 pointsr/techsupport

You can do it yourself.

Assuming none of your existing equipment supports MoCA, you can get a two-pack of adapters like one of these:

Edit: Note that MoCA 2.x is newer and faster than MoCA 1.x, but other than that they work the same, and are compatible with each other.




    If one of the devices already supports MoCA (TiVO, some Verizon modems, etc), you can just get a single adapter instead of the two-pack.

    You'll also need to get MoCA-rated splitters for your basement (or wherever the cable lines in your house run to). Either get one with as many outputs as your existing splitter and replace it completely, or get a smaller one and use it to split the signal from your main splitter into the cable for each room where you want to use MoCA. You want something like these, but there are many options with different port counts:




    Finally, you need a Point-of-Entry filter to prevent your MoCA signal from leaking out to your neighbors through your cable connection. You put it on your cable line before your splitter(s) and it blocks the MoCA signal from passing through:



    Edit: My setup is cabled as follows:

    The cable tv / Internet line enters my home in the basement. I have the Point-of-Entry filter screwed onto the cable, and then into a MoCA splitter. Coax cables run from the splitter to various rooms in my house.

    In the room with my modem and router, I have a cable from the wall jack to the "coax in" side of a MoCA adapter. I have a short cable from the "tv/stb" side of the MoCA adapter to my modem. There is an ethernet cable from the modem to the WAN port on my router (this gives my router its Internet connection), and then an ethernet cable from a LAN port on the router to the ethernet port on the MoCA adapter (this gives the MoCA network access to the Internet).

    In the room with my TV, I have a cable from the wall jack to the "coax in" side of another MoCA adapter. I have don't actually use cable TV service (just Internet), but if I did, I would have a cable from the "tv/stb" side of the MoCA adapter to my TV. There is an ethernet cable from the MoCA adapter to my Roku to provide it with Internet access through the MoCA network.

    I actually use this adapter: by my TV rather than one of the smaller ones, because it has four ethernet ports instead of one. I bought it before MoCA 2.0 devices were available. If you only have one ethernet port on your adapter but need to connect multiple devices, you can get a small network switch instead. I was just trying to avoid extra boxes next to my TV.
u/Skigazzi · 3 pointsr/buildapc

I'm a big fan. I bought these to connect two PCs that are right next to each other, but without a good way to run cables. (I built them without wifi since I thought cable run was easy, turns out there was a lot of crap in that wall)

They are the newest and most expensive TP-link model, but I figured I would splurge on this set since this will be the one that 'pumps the juice into the system', so make if as powerful as possible. Future expansions will be cheaper models.

As for performance, it was a simple set up, literally hit a button, run to the other one, hit a button, never needed a reset since.

Ping is around 20 on speedtest and CS:GO matches, so Im having NO ping reduction, and speeds are nearly 100% of ISP.

u/iHelp101 · 3 pointsr/perktv

In terms of speed it is unlikely that you have 600Mbps Internet, so think of that as an advertising number. It makes people think "this one is faster" when it reality you likely don't have Internet speeds that support speeds that fast. I linked a TP-Link 200Mbps powerline adapter below. It is about half the cost compared to the TP-Link adapter you linked. The speed is up to 200Mbps, which most people don't have.

In the US the average Internet speeds are 55Mbps/18Mbps, so I would expect this to work nicely for you.
TP-Link 200Mbps ($24.95/$21.21 Used) -

u/wastingxp · 3 pointsr/xboxone

Powerline adapter is what you would want. Its just plug and use, easy as that, won't cost you no more than $50 also. My modem locates on the first floor and my Xbox sits on 2nd story of my house but thanks to the adapter, my Xbox is now wired in. The only thing is you need to plug the adapters straight into a wall socket, not in a surge or extender. This is the one that I use personally.

u/clupean · 3 pointsr/buildapc

drill tiny holes =! break walls
Ask a pro to do it for you, it's very clean looking.

Alt: if you really can't touch the walls, powerline adapter + KVM ethernet extender.

u/PathToEternity · 3 pointsr/techsupport

You might look into powerline adapters.

I have a pair of something similar at home. Poke around to see what would fit you best, but me and my roommate are both very happy with them.

u/thgintaetal · 3 pointsr/networking

I don't live in a FiOS area anymore, so I can't actually give you a step-by-step guide. You're going to have to figure out a lot of this on your own.

Here's a brief primer on FiOS MoCA:

MoCA is a system for transmitting IP over coaxial cable. In most FiOS installs, there's actually MoCA running on two different frequencies: First, the WAN-side connection from ONT to the primary (in 99% of installs, only) Actiontec router, which IIRC runs at 1000 MHz. Second, the LAN-side connection from the router to any cable boxes and other MoCA devices, which runs at 1150 MHz, and is bridged to the router's WiFi and LAN ethernet ports. You're going to want to get your second router to listen to this 1150MHz signal, but not to act as a DHCP server.

If you disable the 1000MHz (again, not sure this is correct, but it's labeled as something like WAN Coax) MoCA connection, your secondary Actiontec won't have any way to connect to the ONT directly, which is what you want.

The first problem that comes to mind with this setup is getting the non-WAN Actiontec to run a DHCP client on the LAN side. The easiest way around this is probably to configure it using a static IP address in the same subnet, but outside of the primary router's DHCP range, which I believe you can do pretty easily.

Good luck!

u/nickdanger3d · 3 pointsr/cordcutters

Do you have coax in the rooms? You can use a MoCa bridge to connect them. Works great for my house.

Powerline networking only works if you're on the same circuit in my experience.

u/MilesHighClub_ · 3 pointsr/UMD

something like this you mean?

I've got one of these in my house. For some reason I didn't think they'd work here, but if they do that's a very reasonable alternative. Thanks!

u/jmajorjr · 3 pointsr/xboxone

I really like over coax. Amazing speed!

Actiontec Ethernet over Coax Adapter Kit

u/blinkingled · 3 pointsr/techsupport

I was referring to WiFi channels - but that might not help if your router is a problem or you are not getting enough bars.

If you don't mind spending few bucks - I recommend buying a Powerline Adapter like this one .

Basically you get a pair of adapters with Ethernet port each. You plug one adapter in wall power plug near the router and attach a Ethernet cable between it and the router. The second adapter does the same but in the room where your PC is - it basically transmits upto 200Mbps over your power lines. It is hassle free if your house isn't too old.

u/Edheldui · 3 pointsr/Overwatch

Why don't you use a power line adapter? It uses the electric system to bring the ethernet signal around the house.

I have three of them and my siblings and me play online games at the same time without any problems. Here in Italy we have really bad 20 megabits connections and our ping is around 50ms anyway.

EDIT: I use this model.

u/Pheace · 3 pointsr/Games

I don't even see why you would do the latter, do you have more than one ethernet connection? It's built to work from the router though.

If you're not willing to run a cable from your router to the TV you could consider getting those devices that expand your network through the power network. (basically plug one device in a power socket in the room where the router is and the other in a socket close to where you're going to use the Steam Link (random example)

u/Golden_Taint · 3 pointsr/PS4

Honestly, your best bet is Ethernet powerline adapters. They use the power wiring to transmit from your router, super easy.

u/jsimpson82 · 3 pointsr/funny

I recently helped set this up for someone. It worked well.

We used these:

u/epyon22 · 3 pointsr/pcgamingtechsupport

It can be inconsistent. I've found moca adapters over coax to be much better. I got the high end ones that can do a full gigabit but that's probably over kill for only gaming so you can go with the slower ones. A long Ethernet cable is probably going to be your cheapest most reliable option.

These are the ones I have:
[Actiontec Bonded MoCA 2.0 Ethernet to Coax Adapter, 2 Pack] (

u/Hammer_525 · 3 pointsr/PS4

Just made a post about this myself the other day and I have Comcast as my ISP. Some people recommended me to look into getting a powerline network adapter, and doing some research they've apparently helped a lot of PS4 users with slow internet connection.

This one's going for $30 currently and it seems to be fairly popular with the PS4 crowd, so you may want to check it out:

Can't give any feedback myself on it or any other adapter as I haven't purchased one yet, but they seem to be a highly praised method.

u/glowinghamster45 · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Wireless is always good, but if you've got a ton of space an walls between you and the modem, maybe you could take a look at powerline adapters?

u/Calmiche · 3 pointsr/DirecTV

Correct information. The DECA's are 100mb devices, under ideal conditions. 4k video on the DirecTV system pulls about 50mb per second. There's no need for them to be faster.

There are faster ones, but since you need more bandwidth, you can't have a satellite signal on the same line.

However, these devices can interfere with your cable modem. It's better to use a straight through piece of coax, rather than one that's tied into your coax splitter.

u/kmlweather · 3 pointsr/Fios

Based on some DSLReports users giving me some advice - it looks like I may have FiOS run ethernet only to the primary router (it's most important that one receive the gigabit service. And use these at the existing coaxial drops for the other routers - those are not as important to get the full gigabit.

u/missed_sla · 3 pointsr/techsupport

These are called "mesh networks" and Google is far from the only company that makes them. There is also the option of using powerline extenders with wifi access points on them. They have the advantage of being significantly cheaper, but require compatible house wiring.

u/GHONX · 3 pointsr/mildlyinfuriating

Or even a powerline adapter

u/rehehe · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

I have a house with several buildings and the stucco construction (with chicken wire in the walls) screws up most signals.

Of everything I have (wifi, rf, etc) my 4 Lutron Smart Bridge Pros are the best at connecting to devices over distance. It's really impressive.

I do use plug in dimmer to reach to a Serena shade that was having intermittent disconnection issues. You can have one dimmer as an extender per smart bridge.

Another useful trick is positioning the hub more centrally. I don't have ethernet cable in my walls, but I do have coax to around 10 locations. I use MoCA 2.0 adapters to do coax to ethernet throughout the house. I'm not sure what real world speed they top out at, but I can max my fiber (around 600 up and down) over the coax, so I'm happy. I mainly use them as a wired backhaul for my Velop mesh wifi, but I have one in a location just for a Lutron Smart Bridge.

u/ChunkyThePotato · 3 pointsr/xboxone

Either a long cable, or a powerline adapter.

u/folterung · 3 pointsr/gaming

I bought these, they’ve been fantastic. Stable and fast.
I’m in a home, built in the last 12 years so relatively new electrical. Each adapter is plugged into a wall outlet alone.

u/sina3001 · 3 pointsr/DIY

A PowerLine device, like the other guy suggested is perfect for avoiding running Ethernet. I use them around the house for running network to my TV, Xbox, and media player. You can even connect a network switch on the receiving end to connect multiple devices.

It basically uses the power lines in your home/apartment as an Ethernet connection. Generally much faster than Wi-Fi, and the greatest advantage is signal stability. You get a solid and consistently low ping, which you can't always get from wireless. Also, all data that is sent between adapters is encrypted, and it takes about 30 seconds to set up.

The previous recommendation is a much older device that is really slow and overpriced.

Get this and you'll be set!

TP-LINK TL-PA4010KIT AV500 Nano Powerline Adapter Starter Kit, up to 500Mbps by TP-LINK:

Edit: added second paragraph for more details.

u/ryanhollister · 3 pointsr/Ubiquiti

moca is the answer. I was all EoP but needed to get top speed to a second building ~200ft away and these moca adapters worked awesome with easily 500mbps.

Actiontec Bonded MoCA 2.0...

u/AzuraDM · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Absolutely worth it. I use this one for my rig, which gives me faster speeds than WiFi and was a breeze to setup. I've had it for a couple years now and will probably stick with powerline adapters moving forward.

u/h2ogie · 3 pointsr/GlobalOffensive

A pair of lil boxes with AC prongs on one end and an ethernet in/out on the other. Signal path looks like this:

Modem >> ethernet cable 1 >> powerline adapter 1 >> wall outlet 1 (no extension cords) >> electrical lines >> wall outlet 2 >> powerline adapter 2 >> ethernet cable 2 >> PC

Link to the ones I've been using for a while and have had no issues with.

u/warplayer · 3 pointsr/PleX

I just set these up over the weekend in my apartment. I bought the 500mbps kit, and since I'm not in a house I'm not getting the full bandwidth I should, but it was still a great upgrade. With the monitoring software it comes with I see the speeds range from 70-140mbps - loads better than the 40mbps I would average on WIFI.

In a house with good wiring, oh man, these babies would revolutionize your network.

Oh btw the TP Link set is far more afforable than the D Link ones, and from what I've read the performance is on par.

Edit: I forgot to mention, network latency is what is causing your problems with fast forwarding and rewinding over WIFI. These powerline adapters will drop your ping to a very low number and should alleviate the problems you mention.

u/AWildRedditorApeared · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Don't get that SSD. it has known performance issues.

Here's a 250 GB Evo 840 (also known issues but not as bad as kingston) for $65. Link

Also definently go i5 if you can. Do you need wifi in your motherboard? WIll a powerline adapter work for you?

>Being that this is my first PC I'm still learning about all the connections on the MOBO. What are some gotchas I should be looking out for?

Make sure the PSU has an 8 pin connector - your graphics card will require it. They usually have a 6+2 pin or an 8 pin. Edit!! - looks like it has a 6+2 pin, you're good OP.

Also be advised - that is a non-modular PSU (which is fine) but your case is a mini-ITX. I have had that case in the past. Cable management is challenging but not impossible, especially if you do nothing with the 5.25" bay drive. But if you load it up to capacity, it's gonna be a tight fit.

u/darkcat12 · 3 pointsr/Columbus

Are you using WiFi to stream or are you hard wired?

My wife and I had the same issue with ours cutting out and it was because our router was in a different room compared to the TV. I installed one of these and we haven’t had issues with quality or it cutting in and out.

u/Spawn_Beacon · 3 pointsr/thelastofus

Ethernet cord goes out of PS4, and goes into adapter

Adapter goes into power outlet

Another adapter goes into another outlet

Ethernet cord comes from the adapter

Ethernet cord goes into router

Karma gets put into my little karmawhore hands.

now go forth

u/MusicalDingus · 3 pointsr/halo

He means like these. Plug the adapters into outlets near the router and xbox and use two short ethernet cables to connect them. Although at that price and for how long before you move it's probably not worth it.

u/whiteyonenh · 3 pointsr/DataHoarder

If you have coax cable runs for Cable/Satellite TV, MoCa might be an option. I'm unsure what the max speeds are on it, but it should be much more consistent than powerline. If you have TV via the cable company or an OTA antenna setup you'll need a MoCa entry/POE filter (to prevent the signals from leaving the house), and you'll want to use at least MoCa 2.0 to get near 1Gbps speeds. I haven't personally used the adapters, but if you're willing to try it, and have existing coax runs, buying them from a place that has a good return policy would be what I would try. If you have DirecTV, there's also the DECA adapters (don't use these on a cable TV setup, they'll mess with TV/Internet reception because of the frequency/spectrum changes made to make these work on satellite systems.)

Something like these could work out well IMHO. Reviews seem OK, and Amazon has a decent enough return policy.

u/washu_k · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

The first one is a DECA adapter. It only works with cable that is either not active or has satellite service. It does not work with cable that has an active TV and/or Internet signal on it. It is also limited to 100 Mbps.

The 2nd one is an old MoCA 1.0 adapter so also limited to 100 Mbps. You should get a 2.0 adapter, they are much faster.

u/IBYMBYBMYL · 3 pointsr/PS4

If your wifi sucks, and you can't run an ethernet cable from your router, I'd suggest one of these. It's a powerline adapter. Basically, it just uses the electrical wires in your home to send the signal.

u/ylerta · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Look into power line adapters paired with Ethernet adapter. I'm in a similar situation and this is my solution and it works perfectly. it's an expensive solution but you can use the power line adapter for PC's and other things in the basement.

edit: also note this is not an invasive option since you just plug in the power line adapters, then plug one side into your router and one into the Ethernet adapter

u/Flying_Spaghetti_ · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

What you need is a PowerLine adapter.

u/oozles · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Pretty sure they don't work on power strips, only if directly plugged into the wall.

Also I only paid like $40 for this then another $25 for this. I don't know if that counts as skimping but it wasn't expensive. I've been very happy with them.

u/yourenzyme · 3 pointsr/vita

Use power to Ethernet adaptors. They are great (or they won't work at all, it all depends on how your home is wired up).

Something like this

u/Brian25savannah · 3 pointsr/Infinitewarfare

TP-Link AV600 Nano Powerline ethernet Adapter Starter Kit, Powerline speeds up to 600Mbps (TL-PA4010KIT)

This might help, I’ve heard it’s better than WiFi although I’ve never tried it. 100mbps is plenty, I don’t think the extra speed will help if you’re still on WiFi.

u/Trazac · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

You could always use Powerline adapters instead. Overall, though, you don't need fast internet to be competitive, you do need low ping. Wifi might bring up your ping somewhat, but probably not that big of a deal.

u/Crossgamer245 · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/JrClocker · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Hardwire to an access point will always be better than a mesh system.

I was in a similar predicatment to you...3,500 sqft house on one florr.

Do you have cable TV jacks throughout the house? If you do, check out MoCA devices (I Use These). They have Ethernet on one side, and RF jack on the other side. You may have to change out splitters (I Use These) with ones for increased bandwidth. When you connect MoCA devices, you connect them on the output ports (not the input)...also, you have to make sure that you don't have any RF amplifiers in the data as they will not pass data in both directions.

u/planet_x69 · 3 pointsr/Fios
u/taylorwmj · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

This will be your best bet. You'll take a ethernet cable out from your router/switch into one of these and then coax out to the wall. From there you'll place another near the device(s) you need better coverage with and take the coax from the wall into the other of this device, and then plug the ethernet from the MoCA adaptor into your other device or switch.

u/Jeremydaniels247 · 3 pointsr/pchelp

Use a powerline Ethernet adapter, then. Those things rock and come in a ton of different varieties. They are on the expensive side(for a really good one), but are way cheaper/easier than running cat 5 through the walls.

Amazon link for a basic 600mbs version.

u/kscannon · 3 pointsr/Borderlands

Like u/TheDavld said, most likely you are playing at 1080p unless you have the ps4 pro. [email protected] fps or [email protected] Best case framrates, I would go for [email protected] fps every time. Given that you might not care for having 60fps vs 30fps. There is a solution for better network connectivity and the 4k screen. I have a set of these. Faster and better connection than WiFi but not as good as Ethernet. Good middle ground. I have these as a quick hookup around the house that I do not plan to make permanent/run Cat6 too.

u/mrrag · 3 pointsr/ChivalryGame

If for some reason installing a cable to directly connect your router to your PC via an ethernet cable is not possible (either you have floors in the way, or just esthetically unviable) you should give PLC a shout, Power-line communication.

Summarizing, it is a device that will carry out data through your electric current without adding noticeable delay. You can connect one device into a power plug, connect an ethernet cable from it to your PC. Then do the same in the room your router/box is at.

This is how they look like, and how much they cost

u/porksandwich9113 · 3 pointsr/Fios

Err..idk what /u/Ryao is selling you, but MoCA isn't that bad, and it certainly doesn't have a higher latency than WIFI!

As long as your FiOS speed is 100/100 or below, you can expect to get your full speed over even the shittiest of Coax cable, it can even generally do 150/150, but Verizon will default to an Ethernet install because it can vary based on your home's condition.

MoCA 1.1 has a PHY rate of about 275mbit (give or take depending on wire condition, length,etc) and you can expect to do about 175mbit over it no problem.

I believe most if not all ONTs are still on 1.1. This will be limiting if you plan on doing transfers over a local network. (I.E. you have a networked storage or something similar).

Rather than running your whole networking coming from the ONT over Coax, I recommend buying a bonded MoCA adapter pack and creating your own, much faster MoCA network.

These do MoCA 2.0, which is a PHY rate of 1.4Gbit, with real world speeds near 1Gbit.

You plug one end into your router, then tap it into the coax network, then the other end wherever you want your network extension to end. You can either run it to a single device, or you could add a switch/or second AP at the end location.

You can buy as many as the adapter as you want and put end points in different locations if you want a wired connection in those locations.

The one I linked can do gbit assuming your coax is in decent condition.

This guy here tested this specific model and was able to full 104-108MB/s over his network with them.

u/bdfull3r · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Run a really long cable. At my in laws house they feed ethernet through the air return registers.
Unless we are talking 100 feet or more then you wouldn't see any noticeable signal degradation.

You could also try a powerline adapter. I have one for my rig and haven't had issues though milage can vary with them.

u/IceDevilGray-Sama · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

I've been using a pair of these to get internet to the second floor from my basement and they work wonders. You should also buy a POE Filter to put in where your coax enters the house.

Then you plug one into your router and attatch the coax. If you have a cable box, it has a built in splitter to let you hook that up too. Then you plug coax into the other one in the place where you want internet, and then the ethernet cable into your device.

u/IAmARobot_Friend · 3 pointsr/techsupport

If you're only needing this for a single device at a distance, consider Power Line Adapters. They're generally pretty reliable as long as they work at all in your house. They're a two-piece system that uses you in-home power wiring to transmit the signal.

They're simple to setup, but again do NOT work in every case. This will prevent having to wire anything, you'll just need patch cables on each end. One to the router, one to the computer. No super long wires, no cabling, no complex setup. Plug in, push a button, and go.

u/TwilekLa7 · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Amazon begs to differ your price assertion: TP-Link AV500 Nano Powerline Adapter Starter Kit, up to 500Mbps (TL-PA4010KIT)

u/para_soul · 3 pointsr/darksouls3

I'm not discrediting your connection, but unless it's literally fibre internet hitting near gigabit speeds, it'll still have an impact with wifi vs ethernet. You can use a powerline adapter, plugged in from the mains AC, to sync your computer and router despite distance. This gives you far less of the minor packet loss you could be experiencing.

If you're interested in a powerline adapter, check this. Though really if you get <10 ping in most games, I'm unsure if you need it.

u/Chelsea182 · 3 pointsr/techsupport

Power line adapters and a switch. You would not have to run any cables through your house. The power line adapter uses your existing electrical wiring to transfer data. You then use a switch to plug all your devices into.

Edit spelling

u/sushibagels · 3 pointsr/pathofexile

You should go wired if possible. If running an Ethernet cable from your router to your PC isn't an option consider using a "Powerline Adapter" it will allow you to send your connection through the existing power-lines in your house.

The connection isn't as fast as a normal Ethernet one and can be subject to some interference but it is still much more reliable than WIFI.

u/LHoT10820 · 3 pointsr/splatoon

Just because you aren't noticing lag doesn't mean you aren't lagging from your opponents perspective. Getting set up on LAN is really only polite.

Since your router is in another room, something like this will be helpful. Just pair it with a proper LAN Adapter and you're good to go!

u/rmatthe1 · 3 pointsr/buildapc

I bought a powerline adapter for my house at college because my roommate watches Netflix nonstop which causes latency issues when gaming. It should be really easy to setup and it fixed my latency. Just plug into the wall next to your router with ethernet cable going in and then plug the other one in next to your computer and connect to the computer with another ethernet cable.

u/caller-number-four · 3 pointsr/Charlotte

You don't need all that.

Order this -

One plugs into the switch near/on/in your router and the other end goes on to your remote room. From there you can plug the 2nd adapter onto a switch or an AP or whatever. Wammo blamo.

No new MoCA router required.

u/waspocracy · 3 pointsr/amazonprime

Question: Are you using WiFi for your PS4?

I noticed with the PS4 that there are some bizarre DNS checks going on. It's not just Amazon that has the problem - it was basically everything. A friend recommended a powerline adapter and I haven't looked back. I liked it so much I setup every major internet device to these.

u/truexchill · 3 pointsr/buildapc

If you have access to the router/modem, get some powerline adapters. They're better than wifi.

u/javierito91 · 3 pointsr/techsupport

TP-LINK TL-PA4010KIT - TP-Link TL-PA4010KIT 500Mbps Powerline Homeplug Nano Adapter with 10/100M Ethernet - Twin Pack

Something like this will work OP. You plug one next to the router with an ethernet and the otherone next to your computer so the internet travels with your house electricity. It worked wonderfull for me

u/silvernutter · 3 pointsr/ps2

There are a few things you could do. You could get a wireless bridge to convert the wifi back to an ethernet connection. If your house is relatively new you could attempt powerline networking. This would allow you to send an ethernet signal over your home's power grid to an outlet in your room.

Perhaps there is a way to turn your laptop into a wireless bridge, but I'm not aware of one, especially on Windows. I have heard of people doing such things with a raspberry pi however.

What are you looking to do with an online PS2?

u/EmeraldShark · 3 pointsr/NoStupidQuestions
u/Heratiki · 3 pointsr/vita

Try both. Never hurts to find out but we first need to start where all the magic happens and that is where your PS4 is at.

Guaranteed it's your wifi causing your issues not your connection. Give these a shot if you can convince your parents. They are cheap and reliable and offer superior speeds and latency compared to wireless. TP-LINK TL-PA4010KIT AV500 Nano Powerline Adapter Starter Kit, up to 500Mbps

Connect one to an outlet (not a power strip) by the router/modem and one to an outlet by the PS4 and the connect the Ethernet cables and you have yourself a wired connection that is only about 5-10ms latency over a standard Ethernet connection. And the bonus is it uses your existing power infrastructure to send the information instead of cables all over the place.

u/E-vanced · 3 pointsr/buildapc

3 words: Powerline. Ethernet. Networking.

TP-LINK AV500 Nano Powerline Adapter Starter Kit, up to 500Mbps (TL-PA4010KIT)

Also, frequently check out r/buildapcsales for sweet deals

Other than that, the only thing I might change is the 1050 to an Rx 470 as that maxes almost everything at 1080p

u/spookyjack123 · 3 pointsr/freenas

Well, one thing you can do is have a second router as a client bridge (Like a cheap WRT54G) and then have a NIC on the WRT54G feeding into the NAS. Or you can use powerline networking to get 100Mbps through electrical, allowing for a Router to NAS link without clogging up your Wifi. I strongly advise that you use Powerline networking if you have multiple devices that use wifi already.

Of course, the best solution is some ethernet, but since you said that's not possible, go for the powerline solution.

Here's a nice powerline networking solution:

Cheers ! And happy FreeNas-ing !

u/uacoop · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Or a Powerline Adapter for considerably less effort. Two minutes to setup feels just like normal Ethernet.

u/a1kimreddit · 3 pointsr/PUBGXboxOne

You might want to try a powerline adapter. It basically allows you to send network traffic from one normal power plug to another in your house. I've used one in the past, and it seemed pretty reliable... definitely better than the wifi you're using now, and they're not too expensive (about $40).


So you'd connect like this:

Router ->

Powerline #1 (which is plugged directly into the wall near your router) ->

Powerline #2 (which is plugged directly into the wall near your xbox) ->


u/DexterMorgan67 · 3 pointsr/techsupportmacgyver

Powerline adapters are perfect for what you're looking for. Do not plug them into a surge protector, they get weird. You can get either ones with outlet passthrough or without. I'd also suggest getting these to get that plug off the wall a bit.

u/holmgren · 3 pointsr/xbox360

I had the same problem, then I bought some of these and it has worked awesome.

u/fuzzydunloblaw · 3 pointsr/computers

Powerline networking was made for this type of application. Here's a starter kit on Amazon for cheap. It allows you to use the electrical lines in your walls to transmit data at decent speeds vs having to run cat 5/6 through your walls or having spotty wifi.

u/sathyabhat · 3 pointsr/IndianGaming

The link works fine, thanks!

Also on Amazon India for 4.4k

u/TitleMadeCallPing · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Interesting... Is this sort of like a wifi extender but seems much better? What makes this better/how much better is this compared to the ASUS/TP Link PCIe wifi cards?

Is this what you're talking about?

u/_Mr_Goose · 3 pointsr/DIY

As others have said running standard 5e or 6 will work just fine.

I'd like to throw out a couple other options that I haven't seen covered yet.

I've used something like these PowerLine Ethernet adapters at my parent's house and even with older wiring it still worked out very well:

And another option would be to get a wireless system that is built to handle a bit more. Ubiquiti has a great range of wireless access points that are built to handle the load. You would install multiple access points and then turn down the transmission power of the radios. Doing this will help the devices split up and connect to the access point they are closest to. At the same time those devices are rated to handle something like 30 clients.

u/itrippledmyself · 3 pointsr/Comcast

You may get some more range out of an AC router, so that could be a small bonus.

You might also check on power line ethernet adapters, as they are cheaper than MoCa (This is not a product recommendation, but something like this

u/ReelJV · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Before I bought my house, I used a set in an old apartment building. Worked well for me. I was able to get 120mbps down using it. It should be used as a last resort, but I PERSONALLY had great results.

I used this:

u/BLToaster · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

They're pretty damn neat. But from what I understand it utilizes your house's electrical grid to route the signal through. It was the clear winner vs. wifi for my household. We had 1 powerline sending signal to 3 others upstairs and worked like a charm before hardwiring our PCs directly to the downstairs router.

We've had two separate ones, the TP Link AV500 and the TP Link AV1000. Honestly I'm not sure if there was a difference so I'd probably recommend just getting the AV500. We only went up to the AV1000 when we added on the third person.

Setup is super simple, plug the one adapter to an outlet by the router, and connect the two via ethernet. Then plug the other adapter into an outlet near whatever device (PC, 2nd router, etc) you want to connect, and they'll pair. I believe there may be a button to press.

u/Shiztastic · 2 pointsr/PleX

My guess is the bridge isn't smart enough to keep the traffic local. It's sending the stream over the bridge back to the primary router and then back out to the Roku via the bridge as well. You might try connecting the Roku to the primary router and see how it works.

I tried something similar to this and it was awful using a wireless bridge. Then I replaced that with a power line unit from TP Link where the remote unit also acted as an additional wireless access point and it works great now.

u/dokool · 2 pointsr/japanlife

What are the best solutions for getting a wifi signal through/around concrete from one side of the apartment to the other?

A search in English brought up powerline kits like this, but a Japanese search brought up more expensive solutions - 30k yen repeater sets and the like.

Or is it as simple as upgrading our (already pretty good) router?

u/MLGw2 · 2 pointsr/Ice_Poseidon

The above image shows the range with the routers and wired lines in the house, and people using phones/ipads n shit.

Wifi extender for dummies: This guy explains it.

This is the product he uses: Under $50.

10 routers is not the answer.

u/tsdguy · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Nope. Get a Powerline Wireless network adapter with an Ethernet port.

I just put a TP-LINK TL-WPA4220KIT ADVANCED 300Mbps Universal Wi-Fi Range Extender, Repeater, AV500 Powerline Edition, Wi-Fi Clone Button, 2 LAN Ports into his apartment and I was very pleased.

Created an extended wireless network automatically and the remote unit includes 2 Ethernet ports for your wired TV.

Powerline sends network data over AC wiring at speeds higher than typical wireless network extenders and it's easier to set up.

u/Xuzio · 2 pointsr/techsupport

You can use a mesh network as suggested, or simply just get another cheap router and run a network cable from the living room to the bedroom router. There are also cheap powerline wifi extenders that will use your mains power to extend the connection: Here is an example:

u/rafikichi · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

They are truly magic:

Add another wifi access point to your powerline adapter in the bedroom. Full speed across your power system.

u/Raphman90 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

you could use powerline, or [MocA] ( attached to an inexpensive router

I have tried both set ups, and by far the moca/second router combo helped much more, but I am in an older house so it could be a problem with my circuits/ the fact that I'm on a sub panel.

u/TsuDoughNym · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Use the router for the powerline -- other users have mentioned the issue with double NAT, but keep in mind your powerline adapter, depending on how much you pay, will be much more limited in bandwidth than the gigabit ports on most modern routers.

If your concern is to extend your wireless network, I highly recommend the TP-Link AV500 WiFi Powerline Kit. I purchased one myself a few months ago and have it set up in my guest bedroom/office, with about 6 walls between me and my AC66U router. Speeds are fantastic, both wired and wireless. I have my laptop connected wirelessly, with my Pi and home server running wired (the adapter has 2 Ethernet ports), so it works out great and I get great N coverage on this side of my apartment now.

In the future, you can just purchase more modules to extend the network in case you have a house or a larger dwelling.

Hope this helps!

u/StickySnacks · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I bought this powerline extender recently and it's been awesome.

Just plug one into an outlet near the router, and the wireless extender one anywhere else in the house and push the buttons to sync. Couldn't be easier and the speeds are impressive.

u/pedad · 2 pointsr/techsupport
u/salesmunn · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I have used these in the past and they have worked extremely well. TP-Link's gigabit powerline adapters.

u/mpstein · 2 pointsr/wireless

Most market Wireless APs / Router combos should be able to support it. These things are pretty solid for expanding range.

u/darkharibo · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

I've had these for over a year now and I'm completely satisfied: Easy setup, works like a charm, unless you have an extremely old electrical instalation in your house - then these might not work at all.

u/GamerMan3D · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace This is a pretty good wifi card. That card is pretty fast. Source: In second pc. Or instead of a wifi card you could get a powerline adapter if your house isn't too old. I prefer powerline over wifi card since the its basically a wired connection except it uses yours houses electrical wiring to work.

u/hobowithabazooka · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I'm on mobile right now, but googling "smallnetbuilder" powerline or something like that should turn something up. I bought this one based on their review

u/anon_e_mous9669 · 2 pointsr/needadvice

That's exactly what I'm talking about. I bought some TP-Link ones 3 years ago and they've been great in 3 houses. I've used them to run internet to different levels or corners of the house and they've been great. Here's a link to the newer version of the ones I bought on [Amazon for <$50] ( . .

u/Intrikate · 2 pointsr/battlestations

Lol, no children yet. Not for awhile

Yeah its a powerline line. This one specifically.

Its pretty great cause I can "hardwire" my ps4 to it in my living room because it has a terrible wifi built in. It also doubles as a wi-fi signal boost. Helps reach the back area of the house. Speed isn't terrible, I have 100mbps internet speed for the front room. It hits around 60mbps through the powerline. Sometimes you need to re-pair them. Otherwise has been working great for a few years now.

u/slo_mo_shun · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I was in a similar situation where I had significant packet loss and went the powerline adapter route. I purchased this TP-Link and it solved all my problems. Just keep in mind it is not as fast as a Cat6 cable.

u/headsh0t · 2 pointsr/techsupportgore

I believe this is the one. The one end doesn't seem to negotiate at 1gbps on my Cisco 3550 for some reason but I don't really need it

u/AverageWhiteMale2 · 2 pointsr/xboxone

This is what I bought. You get two adapters, plug one in by your modem and attach it to the modem via ethernet cable. Plug the other one in by your Xbox and attach it to the console via ethernet cable. They talk to each other over your electrical and supposedly are the next best thing to being hardwired into your modem. Also prevents running cables across the house.

u/CPBabsSeed · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

For myself, I just connect the powerline adapter to a switch in my room which is then connected to all my devices, including a secondary wireless router I just use for phones mainly. My gear is a little dated, though, and nowadays you can get all that rolled into one device for a good price. For example this low end model or this high end model both give you a single port adapter to plug into your router, as well as a destination adapter with multiple ethernet ports and its own integrated wireless access point.

u/B_B_Rodriguez2716057 · 2 pointsr/PS4

If you're a long ways away from your router, I'd recommend picking up this. It's the only way I can download or play online.

u/RedPatriots · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

So I'm really new at all of this so I'm having a bit of a hard time following. Would this work (the reason I'm asking about this specific one is because I saw someone else recommend it in a similar thread)? Or could you recommend a product that would?

u/matt10489 · 2 pointsr/wireless

> AC is faster but less stable

lol wut? Based on what? Its a standardization telling hardware and software how to work. Its just the next wave of 802.11 wifi.

Also, you could lookinto the Ethernet over your electric wiring.

Edit: Like this

u/arahman81 · 2 pointsr/canada

Or look at getting powerline adapters (or With Wifi)

u/tmlhalo · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Just skip the wifi all together.


u/ArchiMarK · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

How about powerline adapters?

Sure, it's not quite UTP in terms of speed, but it's a very good solution in situations where there are no existing cables and wireless doesn't cut it any more. And it's pretty much plug and forget: one near the router (no problem at all when they come with an extra outlet) and one in your room.

u/Kryeiszkhazek · 2 pointsr/YouShouldKnow

The powerline adapter works amazing. Don't believe any review that says its difficult to set up. It's not. Hell even if I had good wifi It'd be tempting, if only to free up a USB port lol. Also the powerline adapter I bought TP-Link AV200 is only $30 which is about the same price as most wireless adapters.

Wired beats wireless 99% of the time speed wise. Also, you ain't gonna get 1ms ping with wireless
and here's Another result with a slower upload

Im paying for 25/25 but I'll be the last person to complain about getting more than what I payed for.

u/wictor1992 · 2 pointsr/RocketLeague

Where are you from? I bought mine on Amazon.

Seems like Devolo is only for EU countries, so in case you are from US or rest of the world, you can try Netgear:

u/aleatoric · 2 pointsr/gadgets

I'm using this powerline adapter. I haven't run any speed tests because I haven't really been curious enough to do so. All I know is that I was trying to stream 4K content to my TV in my living room, and my WiFi was too far to handle it well. I heard about one of these powerline adapters and figured I'd give it a shot. The 4K content now streams perfectly. I haven't noticed any hicccups at all. I've only had it for a couple months now but the purchase was definitely worth it and I don't know why I never used this solution before.

The adapter only goes up to 200mbps... which is fine for me because there is no ISP in my area that offers anything above that anyway. Fuck yeah Orlando for letting Telecom companies rule the city.

u/shadowman42 · 2 pointsr/OverwatchUniversity

I had occassionaly issues with lag spikes with a decent rig in my house, and while I was with my family during the summer, I'd have spikes of over 1000ms due to the placement of the router.

I invested in power-line adapters(such as these) and now rarely get above 30ms ping.

Getting a better computer might help you play a bit better, but getting off wifi will help your ping a lot.

u/DoctorChang420 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

This is your best bet, m8. NETGEAR PowerLINE 1200 Mbps, 1 Gigabit Port with Pass-Through, Extra Outlet (PLP1200-100PAS)

u/ascagnel · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I bought these in late 2015 at around $100 each; today, they run for about $80. I got nowhere near 1Gbps speeds.

u/showbread98 · 2 pointsr/PS4

honestly I couldn't recommend these more.

u/hassan07064 · 2 pointsr/thelastofusfactions

They use the wiring in your house to deliver your internet. One kit comes with two plugs. They each have to be plugged directly into the wall. One next to the router and the other next to the playstation. Then it's as simple as connecting the Ethernet cables. It's a no bullshit set up. A monkey could do it. Here's a solid kit if the only thing your connecting us your playstation. Not too expensive.

u/ArizonaLad · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Have you eliminated powerline converters as an option?:

u/dead_monster · 2 pointsr/buildapc

You gotta be kidding me. There's like ten right now on Amazon for $15 or less. I'm actually using this one right now:

And this powerline is only $30:

u/IByrdl · 2 pointsr/Chattanooga

I would try a Powerline adapter then.

NETGEAR PowerLINE 1200 Mbps, 1 Gigabit Port (PL1200-100PAS)

u/whymeogod · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I just bought a powerline adapter, and it's great. I am on Comcast though and have no need for gigabit adapters, so these ones were much cheaper and works just as well as Ethernet for me.

u/YawnSpawner · 2 pointsr/ReefTank
u/haol · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Replying here so you get to see my correction (PLC not PCL)

For example this

Note: I have no idea how good this specific model is. Just an example.

u/besme · 2 pointsr/GirlGamers

This may gain a few "witchcraft!" responses, but I tried wifi with a bluetooth/wifi antenna that screwed into the back of my PC, and it could be pretty unreliable at times. I also used a powerline adapter set up, and it was almost as reliable as ethernet. People couldn't believe it. I bought the kit for something like 25USD and I preferred it over wifi. Might be worth a try.

The card: Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I REV Bluetooth 4.2/Wireless AC/B/G/N Band Dual Frequency 2.4Ghz/5.8Ghz Expansion Card

The powerline adapter: TP-LINK AV200 Nano Powerline...

u/nwg442 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

hey man, pro tip: never use wifi if you want a good gaming experience. go with one of these

It allows you to connect to your router through ethernet from anywhere in the house (i'm guessing you chose wifi because you aren't near your router with your PC).

When i made the switch to this guy i never went back, wifi blows for gaming online

Of course, if you can connect it straight to your router, do so, but trust me, wifi fucking sucks

u/Bloodmage391 · 2 pointsr/shittybattlestations

Upvote for powerline, but those are waaaaaaaay more expensive than they need to be. You can get a good set for under $50.

I personally use these, though they're slightly more expensive.

u/rather_be_a_hobbit · 2 pointsr/PS4

Yes it'll work. No fire. any brand. yes it'll be okay.

TP-Link AV200 Nano Powerline Adapter Starter Kit, up to 200Mbps (TL-PA2010KIT)

u/papervstomatogrenade · 2 pointsr/xboxone

Simply buy a powerline adapter, it’s a shame such a useful device isn’t more commonly known. I have this set that work beautifully.

u/androidbruce · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I think he means Ethernet over power. Here's a link. TP-LINK AV1200 Powerline Adapter, Gigabit w/ Power Outlet Pass-through, Up to 1200Mbps (TL-PA8010P KIT)

u/Manodactyl · 2 pointsr/techsupport

usually you have to get the wifi module from the manufacturer as they do not just accept any old wifi adapter. Another option would be to use a wireless to wired bridge. If you are technically inclined this can be done relativly cheaply. Your best bet would probably be using a powerline adapter to get an ethenet port to your blu ray player

u/dstaller · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Powerline Adapters are typically viable solution as long as the two circuits used are on the same panel. Not always guaranteed to have a great signal due to other factors such as funky wiring in some poorly built houses or even older houses, but in my experiences I haven't had any issues. I actually use 3 in my household and get a damn near perfect connection.

Check to see how many electrical panels are used for powering your house, and if it's multiple check to see if the two circuits are on the same panel or not. If they are, here's a nice recommendation for an adapter:

Those should be fine for your speeds since they aren't extremely high. Make sure you plug them into the wall and not a power strip though. Power strips can decrease the quality of the connections.

u/viperguy212 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

New(er) powerline adapters have passthroughs, this eliminates your "free" plug situation.

Oh and the "ethernet ports" on your power strips are likely phone lines (yes they've been around forever lol).

EDIT: sample here

u/Dgarey94 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

id recommend a power line adapter. i bought one recently and went from my 20mbs wireless to the 60 Mbs i was getting at my router. I love it and its on sale for 25 bucks


edit: details

u/martindm03 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

If you can't go wired, your best option is a powerline adapter. I've never had to use one as I can always wire directly to my router, but I hear it's the best option vs. wireless. Your second best and only other option really is wireless. For wireless, the best option is an internal PCI-E wireless NIC, 802.11 ac to use the 5 GHz band for the best speeds.

u/Feltz- · 2 pointsr/fireTV

You might need to go hardwired. There could be some interference with your wifi. If you don't have ethernet in the room or don't want to run cable, get a powerline adapter. Works great.

u/LoveKilledMars · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Don't worry about the downvoters. If you're tight on a budget, TP-Link makes some cheap ones available on Amazon for right around 30 bucks. I've found they last around two years or so before they start to get spotty. Nicer ones last longer, of course, but if money is an issue they work.

Amazon link

u/seredin · 2 pointsr/homelab

I currently do pretty much exactly what you're planning. One "mother" powerline adapter receiving ethernet from my router and plugged into the wall in my living room on the main floor, and two "children" powerline adapters on opposite ends of the basement / garage level. The mother and one child (the child unit which has the higher traffic) is this kit:

The other (less traffic) child is an older model TP-Link that is one half of the predecessor of this kit (the other half died after 6 years of use) and is connected to an AP:

It works well. Depending on your ISP / plan rates, they could be the limiting factor in your network. I rarely transfer files across the powerline so I don't have transfer rates for you, but I do regularly stream off both children and have only experienced stability issues once, when the dead half of the older kit was dying (blown capacitor).

But the point of my post is that yes, a single mother can feed multiple children. I wouldn't get too carried away with adding children because of bandwidth sharing, but the stability should be there for lower traffic considerations. My internet plan is only 150Mbps down, and I know that my powerline adapters are not the rate limiters in my network (except for LAN transfers, which again I only rarely engage).

Happy to help in any way I can.

u/LazarusRizen · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

If your distance is too great to run a dedicated hardwire from the router to the Steam Link, I'd spend an extra ~$40 getting a powerline adapter like this

u/cgingue123 · 2 pointsr/AskTechnology

You could get an ethernet over power adapter:

Plug it into your wall, give it an ethernet cable and it "pulls" to the other side, an ethernet cable out of that into the PC and bam, ethernet-esque speeds

u/Bort_Glingus · 2 pointsr/buildapc

That is no problem I'm here to help let me know if you need me to clarify anything for you. So if the problem with connecting your PC to the internet via an ethernet cable is router placement then that is no big deal. It is actually a super simple fix and you don't have to relocate anything. I currently am using a powerline adapter on my setup because of where my PC is in relation to my router. Just in case you didn't know this is how the powerline adapters work. The wires inside an ethernet cable are made of copper. The wires in the walls inside your house are made of copper. What a powerline adapter does is it takes the signal from your router and sends it over these copper wires inside your walls. On the other end you have another powerline adapter that receives the signal from the powerlines and sends it to your PC. It is very simple and easy to set up and will provide you with the full wired connection. To set them up all you do is plug the included ethernet cable into the first powerline adapter then the other end of that same cable into your router. Then you plug it into a wall outlet near your router. Next you do the same with the other adapter but plug it into your PC. (It's been a little while since I've installed mine so please read the instructions that come with it they are very easy to follow). Then I believe you just hit the pair button on them and they work. The setup literally takes less than five minutes. The best part is there is absolutely no configuration.

This is the exact model that I'm using it's on sale right now for $25 dollars. There is only one slight problem that I've ever run into with them. Every so often, and I mean very rarely like once a month they will unpair. You will lose internet connectivity when they do but all you have to do is unplug the unit that is connected to your PC and plug it right back in that will fix the problem 99 out of 100 times. Hope this helps! Please don't hesitate to ask questions or for clarification if you don't understand something I am more than happy to help.

u/Arckanum66 · 2 pointsr/PS4

It's the shoddy wifi adapter in the ps4, there's plenty of people complaining about this same issue, the only way to fix it if you can't run ethernet cable, is to buy a powerline adapter kit

u/-m_x- · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

This is the one I'm going to be getting.

u/FlabsWereGhasted · 2 pointsr/buildapcforme

I do not recommend that PSU. It's not a very reputable company for psu's. General rule of thumb is that you never want to go cheap with a psu. I would stick to companies like EVGA, Corsair.

The RAM should be fine.

Instead of a wireless adapter, might I recommend a power line adapter?
I have been using this for around 2 years now and I have had 0 problems with lag/speed.

u/kokolordas15 · 2 pointsr/CabaloftheBuildsmiths or this if you want passthrough

Budget for windows is hard to get.You can drop the ram to 8gb and the build will still do fine.The 30 dollars saved can go for a license from /r/microsoftsoftwareswap .Mechanical keyboard is also somewhat out of budget unless you avoid paying any money for windows.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1400 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $159.99 @ B&H
Motherboard | ASRock - AB350M-HDV Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | $67.98 @ Newegg
Memory | GeIL - EVO POTENZA 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $93.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $49.99 @ B&H
Video Card | MSI - GeForce GTX 1050 2GB Video Card | $103.99 @ Amazon
Case | Rosewill - FBM-05 MicroATX Mini Tower Case | $27.79 @ Amazon
Power Supply | EVGA - 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | $44.89 @ B&H
Keyboard | AZIO - L70 Wired Gaming Keyboard | $19.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $568.61
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-06-24 05:16 EDT-0400 |

u/Derlique · 2 pointsr/homesecurity

You can use a Powerline Adaptor for this situation, they use your electrical wiring to send an Ethernet signal from one end to the other.

TP-Link AV200 Nano Powerline Adapter Starter Kit, up to 200Mbps (TL-PA2010KIT)

u/TheGeorge · 2 pointsr/DIY

aha there are ways.

Plug socket ethernet, reportedly they are excellent. Here's one at 500 Mbps

And I can't find a review for USA but PC Advisor UK are ok

u/CatPurrMeow · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Have you considered using a pair of Powerline adaptors?

u/Rage_Boner · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Here's a simple $50 solution...

Configure the new router to run in Access Point mode. Setup the network on it to the same subnet as the main router. eg. Set the device static ip to an unused static ip of the main subnet. eg.

Set the wireless SSID and password to the same as the main router, and use a different wireless channel from the main router. 

Plug cat5 cable into powerline adapter and LAN port on main router. Plug the other powerline into wall on other side of house and connect cat5 to LAN port of the Access Point. 

u/Rouse94 · 2 pointsr/PS4
u/thatgermanperson · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

There are different options available. Here are two common and useful options:

  1. A long cable running from your PC to the router. As far as I know maximum cable length for Ethernet is something like 90m (180ft). For longer distances you'd need something repeating (strengthening) the signal. It would be the cheapest solution.

  2. A Powerline Adapter is another good option. They send the signals over the power line in your walls. Simply connect one of those to your router via Ethernet cable and plug it into the power outlet. Connect the other device to a power outlet in your room and connect it via Ethernet to your PC. Of course that's only going to work if the power lines in your house aren't completely separated.
    There are different models available. The model I linked to has a single Ethernet port (which would be enough). You could also buy a model that offers WiFi and Ethernet. So you could have your own WiFi hotspot in your room and also best connection via Ethernet.
u/LzTangeL · 2 pointsr/buildapc

My advise? Don't use wifi. Use Powerline. You plug an ethernet cable from your router to your wall and vise versa to your computer and its like having a wired connection from across the house! Works wonders

u/arcticfox00 · 2 pointsr/vita

Yo: [Powerline adapters]

Plug one into an outlet near your router, plug one in near your PS4, connect a cable to each, and you're done. It uses the circuits in your home to carry the signal, basically. One of the coolest things ever, IMO.

u/CompletetheCircuit · 2 pointsr/skyrim

Depends on your home network tbh. If you're on WiFi it'll have more latency (input delay) than wired, but if you wanted to get kind of wired without rewiring your house you could use a solution like Powerline. Here's a fairly decent overview and review of the Steam Link.

If you were interested in switching to PC btw, you can check out subreddits like /r/buildapc for help, and AMD have a new graphics card coming out at the end of the month which looks to be a beast at a $199 price point.

u/Barboron · 2 pointsr/ffxiv

If you are in an area with a bad signal and have access to the ethernet ports on your router (assuming it's not in a shared area with other people, i.e. other residents) then you could consider getting a powerline adaptor

You plug one into the wall near your router and the other into the wall near your PC and run a cable to each. That's assuming your router is still working and it's just the wifi gone on it.

u/SykoEvil · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

TP-Link AV200 Nano Powerline Adapter Starter Kit, up to 200Mbps (TL-PA2010KIT)

u/shortrug · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Honestly, wireless adapters are just kind of sketchy in general, especially the USB ones that don't come with antennae.

I've been suggesting powerline adapters to anyone who will listen. This thing will let you take a wired connection from your router and take it up to your computer without running a cable to wherever it is. It comes with everything you need, including two ethernet cables.


If you have any other questions or want to yell at me for not actually answering your question, let me know haha.


If your heart is set on fixing the thing you have now, I would say that it's either a driver issue or something is broken physically, in which case it's dead. To check this just see if you can find information on how to reinstall drivers, and see if that helps. If it doesn't, it's probably time to replace it.

u/RobertCrewneck · 2 pointsr/xboxone

That’s exactly what it’s for. There’s two. You can plug one in downstairs and the other in your room.

this is the one I got.

u/DirtyDurham · 2 pointsr/EtherMining

I would suggest using your office and just get a cheap powerline adapter (like this one). The miner will double as a space heater while you work, plus you can keep an eye on it all day in case it ever has a hiccup and stops mining

u/Captain_Midnight · 2 pointsr/GameDeals

A single Ethernet cable can go for 100 feet without any signal issues, and the cable is a lot more flexible. If you can't do a cable from your PC to the router, you can try powerline Ethernet as an alternative.

u/acting_actuary · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I do! What makes this one better than what I have?

u/MagicalKarp · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Ethernet isn't an option for me.

What powerline adapter do you recommend? Would this two port be good for my brother and I to connect to in one room?

u/bushypornfromthe80s · 2 pointsr/VOIP

One thing that I think could work for you is using one of these. Plug one in near your router and plug the other one where ever you'd like to put the MagicJack.

u/smashadages · 2 pointsr/PS4

1. For fear of advertising my own thread... you may find these tips useful on improving your PS4 speeds. I basically had the same problem as you. I was getting 42 mbps download wired on my macbook and about 5 mbps wireless. The PS4 was getting maybe 20 mbps wired and 4 wireless. (Both wireless devices were about 10 yards from my router.) I vastly improved my speeds with the tips from my post. Hope that helps!

2. Since then, I've done two things because I had a little money to spend ($150 to be exact). I bought a new router to improve my speeds to my wireless devices and I bought a wireless bridge to my PS4. I'm now getting about 30 mbps on my PS4 when I was only getting 4 to begin with.

So #1 helps if you have no money to spend and #2 helps if you have some. If anything, I recommend just buying the $30 wireless bridge because it gives you a wired connection.

Good luck!

u/Deadmeat553 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

A good Powerline adapter is only about $30. You can get one here.

I use one and I can promise you that it's worth it.

u/StandingBehindMyNose · 2 pointsr/splatoon

I see... you might be able to see an improvement by getting a wired connection to the router if it's possible. I'm not sure you'll see a difference if Splatoon 2 handles its networking differently.

You could also try something like a power line ethernet adapter but depending on the age of the house and how noisy other equipment is that may give you mixed results.

I would try running a speedtest over wifi from the same location as the Wii U. What results do you get? Would you be able to plug a laptop directly into your router and disable wifi, and try running the speedtest again? Then we can compare the results and see if wifi quality is the problem or if the internet coming into the house is slow. I'm not convinced that the problem is on Nintendo's end but there might be some things you can try with your existing equipment.

u/dabitude · 2 pointsr/pcgaming

Are the powerline adaptors actually good? Are the cheaper ones good, or is it only worth it when you start spending a lot? I saw this on amazon and almost bought it

u/Ps4_and_Ipad_Lover · 2 pointsr/PS4

this one looks good [here] (

u/ThatCSGOGuy123 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

dont get that awful wifi usb thing. Get this

the R9 380 is better and cheaper than the 960 but requires about 80w more power

For the motherboard get this MSI Z170A Pro and use the money you saved to get an i5-6600k

u/yllanos · 2 pointsr/appletv
u/houndazs · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I've used it, just make sure to remember you get what you pay for. I have the TP-Link 500Mbs set.

u/JTrelow · 2 pointsr/GameDeals

Pretty much. You plug into an outlet, ethernet into it, and elsewhere in the house you plug another one in, and ethernet out of it. It's not as good as a straight ethernet cable, but it's better than wifi.

This is the one I'm using. I've got a Roku and Steamlink in the bedroom running through it. But my wireless router is only 1 room away, so I could be fine on that I suppose. Just had it from another house where the router was on a different floor.

u/piraten00dles · 2 pointsr/DIY

If wifi isn't your thing, why not just use these:

u/fuckflyingpigs · 2 pointsr/Steam

I bought this one and it only arrived today. Excellent product, I have it connected to my desktop. Boosted my speeds from 10mbps to 50. For $40 it's hardly beatable.

u/IAmNotTheEnemy · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I have this Powerline adapter. It's been great so far and having two ports is nice for my PC and Xbone. Just be sure to plug them directly into the wall and not a surge protector.

u/samwheat90 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

First, don't go by the antenna bars, they aren't 100% accurate. Download a speed test app, and test the speed strength when you're in your room compared to being next to the router.

I can't imagine losing that much signal strength from being down the hall. You can try moving your router closer to the middle part of your place.

Your current router isn't the latest and greatest, but it is dual band, so I would definitely setup the 5ghz network as well. 5ghz is stronger and usually has less traffic on the frequency, but it doesn't do well with distance. If you have newer phones (iPhone 5 and better), they should have an antenna for 5ghz and might improve your speed. You can easily google if your devices are compatible. Most should now be.

If that doesn't work you can look into getting a MoCa or a Powerline adapter. Don't get a wifi extender, those are crap. Also, I wouldn't bother with any new "mesh network".

If you really need to strengthen your wifi signal, it's always the best bet to run an ethernet cable and setup an Access Point (AP). This is usually the least preferred option for most people because they don't want a cable running down their hallway, or don't want to deal with the hassle of running it through the walls.

u/LocalTech · 2 pointsr/computers

This one will work fine, honestly most power line adaptors will work for you. Be sure to order from somewhere that offers returns. You'll need to be sure that both adaptors are plugged into the same wall circuit. The only way to check without trial and error with the adaptor is by flipping fuses with something like a lamp plugged into each outlet you intend to use. If you flip a breaker off and both lamps turn off they are on the same circuit.

u/L-E-iT · 2 pointsr/heroesofthestorm

You can look into a device called a "Power Line Adapter". Its a device that will run your wired connection through the power line in your apartment. I seem to max out on 40Mb/s on mine, but I am not sure of the exact speeds I purchased as I cant check since i'm at work. Since it is not just an ethernet cord, it can be moved around the house, and it plugs into any power outlet that you have.

I imagine latency is your biggest issue you are facing, but to be honest I don't have a big issue with these impacting my ping time at all. Its something to look into.

Quick Edit: Here is a link to the one I own. It comes in a few varieties if you need something specific with it. Hope it helps!

u/Dai_Kaisho · 2 pointsr/PS4

if there are no ethernet outlets nearby, try a powerline adaptor. much cheaper than setting up a 2nd router/modem

I've used these for years.

only downside is it can trip a breaker in some newer buildings

u/largepanda · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Unless you have a super cheapo unit, it's the house wiring. This is why /r/HomeNetworking hates powerline ethernet units.

Is your house wired for coax? If so, you can get a pair of MoCA adapters to run internet.

Or just suck it up and run cat6 through the walls somehow.

u/ellessidil · 2 pointsr/Diablo

I use the one port but the two port version might be better for you. You could also go with a higher model that supports up to 1200Mbps if needed, but for most applications the linked model should work fine.

u/OnceUponNeverNever · 2 pointsr/homelab

what about moca 2.0? do you have coax installed in the apartment?

u/TaedusPrime · 2 pointsr/buildapc

If your modem has 4 available Ethernet ports then it's probably a modem/router combo. A normal modem only has one port.

If you don't wanna move anything you can buy a cheap 4-5 port network switch and plug it into one of your router ports to expand it and use one of the ports on that switch for the adapter.

I prefer just using the PowerLine kits to get a good wired source to where you need it then plugging a access point into that. Wireless extenders are only as good as your existing wireless signal which in your case seem poor in that area.

Here's an idea of parts to get a reliable wireless signal to another side of house.

5 port switch to your router, from the switch to the PowerLine adapter. From the other powerline adapter in your target room/area to the access point. Then setup the access point and name it "Other side of house wifi" lol

This should give you a great full bar wifi source without uprooting your existing setup.

u/1new_username · 2 pointsr/techsupport

You could try powerline ethernet adapter like this:

If the plug where your room is and the plug where the router is are in the same circuit, it should work great, if not it may be hit or miss.

Other than that you next best bet is to try to improve your wifi with a better access point.

Something like this will be better than most ISP provided routers

Or something like this should really cover a lot of area

u/Adam-K · 2 pointsr/PS4

Just try to get it wired. Maybe look into a Powerline Adapter

u/Hollow_down · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Ethernet offers a lower latency connection,your router)modem will be able to feed data to it faster. This can be the difference between your connection and someone elses Netflix stream. If the router can push data to your system before the WiFi connection it generally will. Also with Wi-Fi you will be introducing interference from all nearby cell phone, game consoles, neighbor's wifi, microwaves, radio signals. So for stationary systems I always recommend a Ethernet connection. For portable systems Wi-Fi is extremely convenient. If you are unable to get a wire from your router to system I recommend a power line connection. These use your homes wiring as a Ethernet connection and work surprisingly well.

u/lance- · 2 pointsr/needadvice

The AV200 capacity ($30) should be plenty. I used this to hook up my Xbox and it works very well. I'm not sure how your home power has to be setup, but for me it was as simple as plugging in the first box to the router/power downstairs, plugging in the second to the power outlet in my room, and running a short cable.

u/chuccck · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I just tested moca in my new house and got 450-550 Mbps. I would suggest at least testing out moca first to see if it fits your needs. If you only have the 2 computers to wire, then you would be spending $260 on a pair and a single of these

u/Naminaro · 2 pointsr/RecRoom

Well I bought a wireless Ethernet cable thing so I could plug my computer into the router. After I did that it was smooth sailing I forget what it's technically name was but once I get to my computer I'll link it

Edit: Here we go

u/Devuh · 2 pointsr/buildapc

If you're going wireless because an Ethernet wire cant fit between the PC and router, don't go wireless. Get this instead.

u/kalamiti · 2 pointsr/homelab

Wow, I didn't even know this was a thing. I'll need to look at our coax wiring, but this might be the best throughput speed solution and I'm pretty sure out coax comes into the garage and splits from there, so it should work. Also looks like it'll be double what I'd pay for powerline though.

It looks like the Actiontec ECB6200 is currently the only product on the market that gives around gigabit speed, and supposedly the most recent firmware has fixed the speed issues it was having. $163.45 is a bit pricey though.

Has anyone used this that can comment on it?

u/Gman1957 · 2 pointsr/PS4
u/ForeverUnclean · 2 pointsr/PS4

I got this one from Amazon a couple months ago and it's made a huge difference:

u/Bilal_AG · 2 pointsr/RecRoom

Servers are currently in North America. We are working on expanding them to other regions of the world.

You should have very good ping. One thing we experience all the time is that 2.4ghz wifi interferes with the headsets. I suggest try cabled connection or 5ghz wifi.

In my house I switched to powerline adapters and things are working much better. Something like this

u/machinehead933 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I've used these and they worked out well for me. I will be completely honest though - when I bought them it was because they were one of the cheaper options and had pretty good reviews on Amazon. I did like, zero research.

u/zutroy · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I use moca and love it, however the main problem is the expense. Each coax outlet that you want your network to go to needs an adapter, and a 2-pack is $150.

This is the one I use -

I've tried Powerline AV2 as well, and moca blows it out of the water, at least in my house.

u/captain_dylan_hunt · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

No doubt direct Ethernet runs where ever possible to dedicated AP's if budget allows. what about using MCOA adapters?


Push Ethernet over your coax that runs to various parts of the house. Actiontech has lots of positive Amazon reviews, sure the guys here can give you others or better suggestions

u/NintendoNoNo · 2 pointsr/buildapc


I second this. Bitwit made a video on these and they appear to work great. Here is the link to the ones he used in his video.

u/Knoxie_89 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I was referring to:

So after re-reading and looking again at the pictures. I think your best bet would be to have a professional come run ethernet if you really want it. Or go wit ha MOCA setup.

u/HoundLine · 2 pointsr/hockey

TP-Link AV600 Nano I use these, for a more direct connection through the power lines and would recommend.

u/judgedeath2 · 2 pointsr/homelab

I have a pair of these:

My house was prewired with coax fucking EVERYWHERE when I bought it. I get like 600-700 Mbps over them, which is plenty for my home needs. Very reliable. Not rackable, but you can stuff em almost anywhere. One of mine is double-sided velcro'd to the ceiling in the (not finished) basement.

EDIT: I have the original MoCA 2.0 ones (ECB6000). These are a newer bonded version that can get >1 Gbps, which is cool

u/Jayahh · 2 pointsr/Overwatch

Bro these things are amazing. I have this one. Can't go wrong. Just make sure to unplug it and plug it back in every few days to flush the lines. Otherwise its a godsend. Pure sorcery though. Whoever thought of the ability to send internet through powerlines.. sorceror.

u/ShaunRMiller83 · 2 pointsr/Ubiquiti

I have the UAP-AC-Pro since I can not run wires in my walls.

I tried Powerline adapaters to meh success. I got a MoCA adapter and it works really really well.

u/Keeloi79 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Those are not MOCA adapters, those are meant specifically to connect DirecTV boxes to a router using an Ethernet cable. You actually need MOCA adapters which are about $100/set.

u/DowneasterJC · 2 pointsr/PS4

Try these.

I went from 2Mbps/300kbps over wifi to 25Mb/5Mb over these. Still not as good as a direct connection, but much better than wifi. Everyone I talked to said they wouldn't work in my old apartment because the wiring was probably too old, outlets not on the same circuit, etc., but I tried them anyway and they worked like a charm after ~30 seconds spent plugging them in.

u/drnick5 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Ok I get what you're saying now.

If everything is working fine in the theater, I don't think you gain much by moving the cable modem behind there.

One other option, instead or unning a cable, is to use something like these Moca Boxes. This would allow you to create a network connection using your homes Coax cable. (if you've ever used a powerline ethernet box, its a similar idea, you put one box downstairs, and plug into coax, put another box upstairs and hook into coax. both boxes also have a network port and will link together). So in your case, put a moca box near the theater TV, put another upstairs, hook network cable from moca into router/switch downstairs. Upstairs, hook that moca box into the ubiquiti injector, and then hook the injector into the access point. You could try this route first, if it doesn't work, send the MOCA boxes back and then run a cable.

The only time this doesn't work is if you have cable or direct TV, and use a "whole home DVR" which also uses a MOCA connection, as they will likely interfere with each other. (although some have been able to get it to work)

As far as switches, you don't need to spend a lot, I really like the Netgear switches for the price. Something like this should work fine.

u/takaides · 2 pointsr/eero

I have Eeros and am a big fan, but it sounds like you need some hardwired connections. One option that worked well for me was using the preinstalled coax cable in my last apartment. Every room seemed to have coax hookups, and I could run it over the same coax that spectrum was running my internet connection on.

What you'd want is a MoCA adapter (or really, at least 2, one per end) to inject ethernet over coax and then pull it off elsewhere in the house. Had 450Mbps at my Xbox 2 floors away from the modem, and an eero beacon on the other side of the room for wifi devices.

I used these from Amazon with great success. You'd also want to put a high-pass filter on the incoming connection from the street to keep your network private.

As for wiring it up: Modem <--> Eero <--> MoCA <--> Coax Cable (the same one the internet was going to the modem on) <--> MoCA (in another room on a different floor) <--> switch <--> TV, Xbox, Receiver, etc. And the filter on the coax splitter outside coming from the street.

u/GoodOmens · 2 pointsr/Fios

For internet only, ditch the FIOS router and get a pair of bonded devices (e.g., these). The FIOS router MoCa port is limited to ~500mbit. You should hit 850+ with the ones I linked (provided you don't have too many spliters etc).

u/JonPaula · 2 pointsr/buildapc
u/Flammy · 2 pointsr/AskTechnology

If you can't run an Ethernet cable, a great option for many is an Ethernet Bridge. An Ethernet Bridge has two ends, one near your router, plugged in via ethernet cable, and the other near the TV. The two boxes send the signal thru the existing power lines of your house.

I use this one: but there may be a cheaper / newer / whatever option out there.

Note this won't work for all houses, but personally, I've never had an issue. If you have multiple power circuits (like multiple breaker boxes in different locations) that could be a sign this won't work.

u/matfantastic · 2 pointsr/xboxone

This is what I'm using. No complaints so far and the price was pretty good.

u/Theupixf · 2 pointsr/breakingmom

Have you tried power cycling the router and modern?

I know you've goggled it, but have you tried the steps listed on this site: ?

I've had it happen before, but it's possible that the wireless receiver on your desktop may be shot. And instead of a long Ethernet cable, maybe try something like this: Yes it's more expensive but as long as you plug them into an actual wall outlet you can have your modem/router/switch in a completely different area of your house than your computer. It's lovely.

u/zeta_cartel_CFO · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Regarding the Moca 2.0 - do you have the actiontec bonded Moca 2.0 modules?

Secondly, do you have a splitter on your coax line? Because after removing a splitter from my line and using a direct cable, my speeds jumped to about 800-850 mbps. Before that it was around 500-600 mbps.

u/arkhira · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Yeah they can get expensive. Usually its used by most to bring internet between floors and not to use an adapter in every room.

u/Heartless_Carpet · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Heya! Sounds like I have a situation similar to yours. My room is on a separate breaker from my router and these are the results I get:

Computer on powerline adapters:

Computer connected directly to router:

I use these adapters.

I don't have great internet speeds, so the difference in up/down speeds across the powerline adapters is more or less margin of error differences.

As you approach the theoretical 500mbps advertised speed, you WILL see performance differences when using powerline adapters.

However, as far as gaming is concerned: raw up/download speeds are not a concern, and ping seems to be unaffected.

Edit: an important thing to note - you should plug these directly into a wall and not into a surge protector and definitely not a UPS. Both of these will cause interference with the signal and should be avoided if possible.

u/Hudbus · 2 pointsr/Steam

Correction, it has 3 USB ports. (And a hub, such as this one work great.)

Also, in my case, with the router being on the other side of the house, I used a couple of these to get it hooked up through the CAT5 (or Ethernet) port.

I've had no problems since.

u/tjberens · 2 pointsr/uverse

I don't think you can run multiple modems on a single phone line, there'd be too much interference. I'd try a powerline ethernet adapter. There are models with wifi if you need that extended, but this looks like a good basic model:

u/gbrayut · 2 pointsr/geek

The adapters usually include a splitter. So you can still use the same coax lines for Ethernet and cable TV. Also you want to add a MoCA filter on the main line coming into the house, so the internal traffic doesn't leave your home. I got these + the filter in the frequently bought section and they have worked very well on a 100ft coax line out to my garage

u/ilpazzo12 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace
You can make amazon links shorter in this way, the important part is the one written in capitalist letters " B00AWRUICG" anything after it can be deleted. Not finding the long ones annoying, but this is useful if you want to save/send a link of these

u/jollymonsa · 2 pointsr/ScryptMiningRigs

Id go with a powerline adapter over the other items mentioned, and avoid driver issues and location issues. You dont need a fast one for miners. 200 Mbps would be perfect like this one.

u/grey_sky · 2 pointsr/AdviceAnimals

Get a powerline. They are two tiny boxes with ethernet ports on the edges and plug directly into your wall socket. One goes into your router the other into the device you want to use internet on. It uses the preexisting electrical wiring in your house to transmit internet between the boxes.

Hardcore gamer and HD stream watcher with 0 issues here and I am about 200 feet away from my router that is upstairs behind multiple walls/floors. I have been streaming 1080p with 0 issues for the past few weeks.

Amazon Link to the ones I use

u/brad2017 · 2 pointsr/DataHoarder

I have a MoCa 2.0 bonded and I get 500-600 Mbps thru my gigabit internet connection using speedtest. My powerline got 50-60 so imo MoCa is much better if you can use it.

What I'm using:

u/PMMEURTHROWAWAYS · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

This motherboard doesn't have a build in wireless adapter, but you might want to use some powerline adapters instead of wireless, such as these

u/pmarascal · 2 pointsr/buildapc

This can be a very frusterating endeavor depending on many many different variables. To be honest, if Verizon will really run ethernet through your wall correctly for just $75, I would do that 10 times out of 10. Should be no hassle, and you'll never have to worry about it again. I used to have ethernet run throughout my house and I miss it so so much.

When I moved I have had nothing but trouble with my wifi. I live in an old city with brick houses, meaning there's 20+ networks in range at all times and apparently the old brick just kills with interference. I went out and bought a great $180 dual band router and still barely helped. Connection would be fine and fast but every 10 minutes huge ping spikes, certain hot times of day wifi would basically slow to a crawl. Wifi is unreliable if you game at all.

What ended up working for me was these TP-Link Powerline adapters. I was really hesitant, but they really do work my friend. When connected the ping is great and there are no random drops for me. The only problem I've had is occasionally the internet will go out and I need to unplug and plug into a different outlet. This hasn't happened while in use for me so it's not a big deal, it's more of a I just woke up and noticed it after my PC was off all night. But I am actually running through my surge protector which they say not to do... so that's probably my problem lol.

u/onastyinc · 2 pointsr/GoogleWiFi

orbi is a beast on speed, but googles app is better. The app has some downsides, like when the cloud barfed a reset a bunch of our units.

I have my onhub/GW in wired gigabit backhaul mode and it outperms pretty much everything. if i didn't have gigabit backhaul I would have kept orbi.

Another option since you're already using MoCA. Check out these actiontec bonded MoCA adapters you can use that to backhaul GW and potentially get the best of both worlds.

u/KaineOrAmarov · 2 pointsr/buildapc

That's what happened to me. I got this powerline adapter, and the connection would randomly drop out. I used it for a while, gave up, and went back to my $8 USB wifi adapter til I can get a new PCI-E wifi card.

Thing went to use connecting a TV to Netflix, so not that big of a waste

In your opinion, should I give a different adapter a try?

u/Edocsil · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

These things are awesome for cases like this!

u/Jemjem787 · 2 pointsr/electricians

It leads to another HDMI port, this is probably for a home entertainment system. If this port is on the ground level, look about 5ft higher (Where you might mount a TV on the wall) and it might be there, or vice versa. I have one wired in my house for a projector, so look on the ceiling as well. If you can't find one, then the connection might be under a blank faceplate somewhere, or it might not be hooked up, so open it up and see what you find.

If you are wanting to put a router in this specific spot, (Or just need a good wired internet connection), install something like THIS. It's not as good as an actual wireless connection, but i believe it would be faster than wireless.

u/larrylarrington03 · 2 pointsr/wifi

A simple powerline kit will do the trick. Powerline networking is generally not recommended because it is often slow and depends on how good the wires in your walls are. However, since you're just hooking up a printer, speed doesn't matter. If you have anything else next to the printer like a computer that you also want to hook up, you'll want to use MOCA (two of these ) for a much faster and more reliable connection.

u/FlightyGuy · 2 pointsr/homelab

You just need some MOCA adapters to create a MOCA network. The Adapters have ethernet ports:

PC --- MOCA ===COAX=== MOCA --- PC

How-Tos abound:

u/RolandMT32 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

The house does have coax. I had heard of moca but hadn't really done much research into that. Would it be better to buy some adapters like the ActionTec Bonded MoCA 2.0 adapters or would these passive adapters work okay?

u/zeke009 · 2 pointsr/Tivo

With satellite not being used, check out MoCA. IMO, it is way more reliable than WiFi. They will require a bit of an investment.


I bought these a few years ago, they work really well:

Amazon Search:


Prior to the Actiontec devices, I was using some MoCA 1.1 devices from Netgear. If it wasn't for the sale a few years ago, I'd still be using them.


If you go with MoCA, you may want this filter at the entry point:

u/Dead1 · 2 pointsr/PS4

Good to know and thanks for the reply. I actually just found a nice workaround for this problem, should it be something that I actually face. Apparently, I can buy a device like [this] ( or like [this] ( I've just read all these complaints about how WiFi isn't good on the PS4 because apparently it only uses the 2.4GHz N network, which I guess is overloaded for a lot of people because it's old and everyone in a neighborhood uses it now.

u/ShannonCash · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I don't know how it actually works, but I got the same one linked above from Amazon. It's just two little boxes, one plugs in by your router and the other by your computer. No complicated installation or even any software. Worked first time I plugged them in and haven't had any problems. Much faster than wireless too.

u/jibjibjib · 2 pointsr/Comcast

There's multiple options for using your in-wall coaxial for wired networking. The specific option you would use usually depends on what TV provider you are using over that coax

  • If you have cable, you can get MOCA adapters which will send the network traffic over your coaxial cable in a way that does not conflict with your cable TV service.
  • If you have DirecTV, you can get DECA adapters, which are essentially the same thing as MOCA but compatible with the DTV signal on the same cable.
  • If you have an IPTV service like Uverse, you can get HPNA adapters.

    I'll assume you have cable here since we're in the Comcast sub. Setup for each of them is essentially the same though. A MOCA adapter usually has one Ethernet port and two coaxial ports (one to the wall, and one to the TV). If you want to plug in more than one device in your room, you will need to use a switch in that room. Having two coax ports means you can use the wall coax for both TV and networking simultaneously.

    You need at least two MOCA adapters, one in each area you are trying to network. I would expect you would put one in the room where your existing router is, and the other in your room. I have a set of Actiontec bonded MOCA 2.0 adapters that do gigabit over coax, but there are also cheaper older versions that do about 300 mbps. MOCA supports mesh networking too, so if you want to add any additional rooms to your network, just add another adapter to that room, and it will be able to see the other two (or more) rooms.

    Once everything is plugged in, it should just work. There was no configuration I had to do on mine, they just immediately saw each other.
u/PapaChefee_69 · 2 pointsr/AskTechnology

Yes! Purchasing a powerline adapter will give you the flexibility to place your computer just about anywhere because it transmits signal via your wall outlets. you need to make sure that the adapter is plugged directly into a wall because power strips will filter the signal. also side note that these adapters usually sacrifice speed for low latency. hope this helps!

u/LS6 · 2 pointsr/nova

This is way more than $12, but these Have worked really well for me. (4-600mbps range)

Bonus if you have TV is they're backwards compatible with whatever version of MoCA the STBs use so they'll get them online too.

u/new-pc-builder · 2 pointsr/buildapcforme

Wifi is utter crap, I used it for 2 months in my new home and had horrible lags. I switched to something called powerline. You basically take a cable from your router, stick it into a plug connected to your power outlet and then you take another plug and stick it into an outlet near your computer and from there you take an ethnernet cable and connect it into the PC. It took 5 minutes to set up and I had to install LAN drivers for my motherboard.
I have these and they work great. Also these powerlines work great for streaming!
Ok to your build, this is what I came up with:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU | AMD FX-6300 3.5GHz 6-Core Processor | $119.99 @ Newegg
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-78LMT-USB3 Micro ATX AM3+ Motherboard | $59.99 @ Newegg
Memory | Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1333 Memory | $59.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $59.99 @ NCIX US
Video Card | MSI Radeon HD 7870 GHz Edition 2GB Video Card | $169.99 @ Newegg
Case | Thermaltake Commander MS/I Snow Edition (White/Black) ATX Mid Tower Case | $44.99 @ Amazon
Power Supply | EVGA 500W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply | $44.99 @ Amazon
Optical Drive | Lite-On iHAS124-04 DVD/CD Writer | $17.99 @ Newegg
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (OEM) (64-bit) | $89.00 @ Amazon
Monitor | Acer G236HLBbd 60Hz 23.0" Monitor | $109.99 @ Newegg
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available. | $761.91
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-10-12 11:18 EDT-0400 |

This rig could play most games on high settings (skyrim will be no problem), but since Bf4 is still in it´s beta stage, it is hard to say how the 7870 will perform. But it should play it with acceptable fram rates on high settings. The processor is an 6 core AMD CPU and will be strong in games optimized for multicores.Also it is very strong in multitasks. I added in an extra 1tb hdd, but you can leave it out if you want to put that money towards the purchase of an SSD.
Both Motherboard and the case support USB 3.0, so this is taken care of as well.
8gbs of RAM is standard and can be easily upgraded, there are3 more slots available for RAM in the Motherboard.
The case has enough slots for case fans and extra HDDs, so cable management and air flow should be no problem.
The monitor has an 23" screen and supports 1920 x 1080 resolution, it is a good choice when on a budget.
If you have any more questions, let me know and I will be glad to help you.

Edit: There was a mistake in the PCpartpicker list that showed the wrong price for the RAM, fixed it but now the build is 760$. I hope it is not to big of a deal, since shipping is already included in the price.

u/beaub05 · 2 pointsr/htpc

I use Powerline adapters because they don't suffer from connectivity issues or poor signal, they just work. It also puts less strain on your wireless network especially if the plex server would be on wireless.

u/the_dayman · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Not what you asked, but I'll throw out this idea since I didn't know about them until someone mentioned it. You might want to try some powerline adapters. They run ethernet through your power sockets. I got some out just to try since my computer is two floors above my modem and wifi was kind of spotty, it almost doubled my speed and basically always stays connected. I was very happy with them.

u/Chilloutdamn · 2 pointsr/RocketLeague

OP, I have heard great things about these ethernet power adapters. Check it out.

u/techeytim93 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

This is the set that I use. Not a good as a straight into the router setup, but still way better/consistent that even 5g WI-fi.

TP-Link AV600 Powerline Ethernet Adapter - Plug&Play, Power Saving, Nano Powerline Adapter(TL-PA4010 KIT)

EDIT: forgot the link.

u/mistur_niceguy · 2 pointsr/xboxone

Actiontec is one of the primary vendors in this area. A few things to keep in mind:

  1. If you have any cable splitters between the two MoCA adapters, you need to make sure they support the MoCA frequency range.

  2. Place a MoCA point of entry filter at the main coax tap coming into your home to block external household MoCA traffic from coming in and interfering, as well as to prevent your MoCA signals from exiting your house.

    A few sample devices:

u/heathenyak · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

2.4 penetrates barriers more reliably and with less signal loss than 5. So if you can't hard wire them together then using 2.4 as your back haul might give better results. Mesh is terrible but it is what it is. I would consider powerline networking gear in your case. It transmits Ethernet over your power lines. You could then have Ethernet to your mesh router. It's $34 for 2 adapters

TP-Link AV500 Nano Powerline Adapter Starter Kit, up to 500Mbps (TL-PA4010KIT)

Long term though you will want a prosumer access point or two, run cat5e or cat6 to them. Get a poe switch to power them and handle everything. Then pull a drop or two to each room. I try to keep my real bandwidth hogs wired if possible.

u/SomeTechNoob · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Another option is powerline networking.

Basically two little boxes on the wall connect to each other using your house's electrical wiring and that basically becomes your ethernet cable.

Builds looks pretty solid. Unturned is easy to run. Motherboard performance is negligible nowadays as well. If you mean integrated, that's also fine for Minecraft and Unturned and will get you by just fine.

u/Shitty_Paint_Artist · 2 pointsr/computers

I don't have personal experience, but this is usually the recommended adapter. You don't need anything fancy and unless you have fiber internet, you won't need more than the one linked.

I recommend checking out this thread as there is one important factor explained in various comments (the second has the most detail). It doesn't impede anything, just might make it a little more difficult to setup.

u/whyyouarewrong84 · 2 pointsr/AlienwareAlpha

You will want to setup your alpha to automatically boot to your alpha console account. Then in hivemind set steam to launch on boot: (adding an app with option to run on boot)

This guy explains how he got wake on lan working so the steam link can wake up the alpha if the alpha is off.

Then you can turn the alpha on and off to play on the tv it is hooked up to, but you can also turn it on via steam link if you are playing on the other tv.

If you have crappy wireless(most people do) and need a physical connection so the quality of gaming is good, but don't want to run an ethernet cable through your house, you can get a pair of these adapters that send ethernet over your electrical wires between two wall outlets in your house. 35 dollars

u/Mikkognito · 2 pointsr/blackops3

I get some laggy games but not every game.

  1. Firstly, if you're getting lag spikes, know that other people's issues are probably not the same as yours. They have different equipment, different service providers, different consoles/PCs, etc...

  2. Secondly, having an open Nat type doesn't change anything. That's a completely different issue and usually doesn't cause lag spikes. The only reason it would be an issue is if the port that BO3 uses gets used by another device and you get disconnected from the game.

  3. Thirdly, try to diagnose your problem using better methods.

    Ideally, we would be able to use your consoles for this but for obvious reasons, we can't do that. We'll try to make do but for obvious reasons, this method might not be perfect.

    Open two command prompts(Windows) or terminals(Mac). When you start experiencing lag spikes, try pinging your router and Google's DNS service.

    On the first window, you're going to type this (Google):

    >ping -t

    On the second window, you're going to type this (Router):

    Mac:(without the brackets)
    >ping {Your router's IP address, eg:}

    PC: (without the brackets)
    >ping {Your router's IP address, eg:} -t

    It should look something like this. After you've concluded your tests, you can press CTRL C to stop the ping tests.

    Now this could tell us a few things. Your ping times to your router should be very close to 1ms. 3, 4, 5ms is fine but if it's above 10ms more than it's not, then your connection to your router is unstable. This could mean a crowded wifi connection. If you're using ethernet, try switching your cables and run the test again. If it's the same, then your router is at fault. Your ping times to Google DNS could vary BUT they should be consistent. If they're jumping between the from 10s to 100s to 1000s, then there is something wrong with your internet connection and you should speak to your provider.

    If your wifi is at fault, there are various solutions we can try:

  4. Determine which wifi channels are crowded and switch to one that's not.

  5. Run an Ethernet cable from your router to your console/PC. I use a 10 meter cable from my router to my PS4, which works just fine. I just need to remember not to trip over it. lol

  6. User a powerline device such as this. Powerline adapters tend to be much more stable and faster than wifi connections but they depend highly on your house's electrical system. If your house is older, it might not work very well.

    If you tried all of this and you've determined that your equipment is not at fault, then by all means, blame Treyarch. lol
u/morelotion · 2 pointsr/Rainbow6

What internet provider do you have?

This happened to me 3 nights in a row recently and I figured it was something wrong with my wifi. I bought this and haven't had any problems since:

u/good4y0u · 2 pointsr/PFSENSE

There are MOCA adapters, just do a MOCA to Ethernet. I use this (got it cheaper then the listed price...on sale) It works perfectly.

*you want BONDED adapters

You only need ONE MOCA on the pfsense end, I used 1 there and had 3 in other rooms, for a total of 4 MOCA's.

FIOS ONT -> pfSense -> Switch -> MOCA _0 --> [ in wall coax] -> Br1 MOCA -> computer

--> [ in wall coax] -> Br2 MOCA -> Switch -> 4xDevices

--> [ in wall coax] -> Br3 MOCA -> Switch -> 4xDevices

All were getting gig speeds.


Even if you used multiple MOCA's on the pfSense end, it would all still be limited by the COAX in the wall, if it didn't conflict.

u/rabidpiano86 · 2 pointsr/PS4

Try powerline adapters as /u/ThePancakeOverlord mentioned. Here's an amazon link for them:

If you're having problems with your PS4's wifi, it's not worth it to keep screwing around with it. Just buy a set of those adapters and hook it up with an ethernet cable.

I really doubt there's anything wrong with your system. The wireless antennae's in the PS4s are poorly aimed and takes an extremely strong and close signal to keep a reliable connection. It's a flaw with its engineering - really doubt you got a lemon system.

u/Keinichn · 2 pointsr/Steam

Keep in mind that 100% of the time, wireless is going to have less throughput (considerably, the majority of the time). This is definitely going to impact the quality and latency that you get. You may want to look into an AC Ethernet adapter. It'll get you a wired connection without having to run a cable all the way around the house.

u/MistaFotso · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Powerline! One adapter is plugged in an outlet near the router, with an ethernet cable going into the router. The other adapter is plugged into an outlet near your PC, with an ethernet cable going into your PC. It basically lets you use ethernet wherever in your house as long as there's an outlet nearby.

u/tunaman808 · 2 pointsr/AskTechnology

>My questions are: is there a special kind of ethernet cable used for VoIP.

Nope - any CAT5e or CAT6 cable will do.

>is there an adapter that I could use to connect multiple ethernet cables?

Possibly. But the easiest (and most reliable) thing would be to install a switch somewhere along the line. A 5-port switch can be had from Office Depot for as little as $10... although I would prefer this TP-LINK gigabit switch from Amazon for $21.22. [NOTE: all switches should support speeds of 10Mbps and 100Mbps, also called "10/100". This should be fast enough for most people, and the $10 10/100 switch should work fine. However, a switch that supports the newer, faster 1000Mbps (gigabit) standard only costs a few dollars more, and offers 10x the speed. Essentially, if money's tight, get a 10/100. If you want something that's more futureproof, spend the extra $10 for a 10/100/1000 model.] Also, if your home internet is faster than 100Mbps, you'd obviously want to skip the 10/100 models and go straight for a 10/100/1000 switch.

Setting it up is super-easy: plug an Ethernet cable into your router and run it to wherever you want to put the switch (it will only need a power outlet). Plug the power adapter into the switch, then plug the cable (from the router) into any of the ports. Then, plug in a new cable into any of the remaining ports, and run it to your GF's PC. Done!

EDIT: If Wi-Fi isn't an option, another would be a powerline adapter, which uses your home's electrical system and only requires electrical outlets on both ends, and Ethernet cables from the router to adapter #1 and from adapter #2 to the PC.

Another option would be to take an old (or a cheap new) wi-fi router that supports client mode and use that. Basically, the old router acts as a "reverse wi-fi hotspot", in that takes your home's existing Wi-Fi signal and makes it available via its ports to Ethernet devices.

u/FranticGolf · 2 pointsr/centurylink

Ok Beautiful. So if you have not tried there are devices called powerline ethernet adapters (come in pairs and can add more if desired link below) basically you plug one into an outlet next to the router and then connect it via LAN cable then plug another near the device you want to connect and connect the device to the adapter via LAN cable. Essentially what this does is convert the electrical wiring into a network. You can then add more just purchase another adapter and plug it into wherever you have another device you want to connect to the original. I had good internet at my last apartment but due to the multitude of the wifi networks in my complex and the number of walls and odd angles in the apartment the signal had a hard time making it to the TV. Below is the pair I am currently using.

u/NotBillNyeScienceGuy · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I suggest buying a UAP for the main house, if it's centrally located you should be OK. I have the UAP-LR and a very large house with marble floors and thick walls and it gets most the house.

Run an Ethernet cable to the guest house and setup another UAP there. You could use a MoCA Adapter to do this (since you apparently have one). Don't put two routers on the network, imagine the MoCA adapter as just extending the Ethernet cable.

You could also continue using your router supplied wifi and just use the uap for the guest house. I suggest 2 UAPs and a ubiquiti cloudkey or a computer running the controller to avoid interference issues.

u/Doppelgangergang · 2 pointsr/PS4

I used to have the TP-Link TL-PA4010 which worked great on my previous 25/10 connection. It ran at Full Speed.

The only reason I stopped using it is because I upgraded to Gigabit (1000Mbps). I had to run a hard cable.

u/samplebitch · 2 pointsr/techsupport

I did this and it worked well - until I moved the cable modem from one room to another. I've heard the connection/quality of your electrical lines affects the connection, so individual results can vary wildly. I then heard about MoCA - while a little more expensive it works MUCH better. It uses the coax in your house to transmit data. So my HTPC in the living room gets speeds just as fast as being wired to the cable modem directly. I also set up an old router as a repeater so wireless reception is better on that end of the house as well.

These are what I purchased and they work great.

u/porkchopnet · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Professional network engineer here.
Much of the info so far in this thread is correct. Cat5/5a/6 is your best solution for stability and performance, and you can take any one of those 3 standards to 100meters per spec, and practically you can go slightly beyond that if needed. Mesh wireless is cool, but configuration can be intensive. Power line... sucks. Reliability is the biggest killer to me.

But nobody has mentioned MoCA.

If you have FiOS (or similar fiber delivered services), the “backpack” on the side of your house (properly called an ONT) communicates with your router in the house over MoCA which runs over the Cable TV coax. 2.5gigabit, and you can have up to (I think) 26 MoCA bridges on the same channel. About 15 channels available, and every bridge on the same channel is on the same network.

So it’s kind of like your power line adapter, but solid as all hell. If you have coax in all locations, this is the way to go. Bridges are available on Amazon, I just bought two more of these: (yeah that price is a downside).

Here’s more than you ever wanted to know:

If your internet is cable delivered, you may wish to look at a “MoCA blocker” (also called a low pass filter) to prevent other people in your neighborhood from jumping on your network. If you use FiOS, that’s not a problem.

u/lifeisflimsy · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I have come here to tell of the glory that is Powerline. Powerline uses your electrical wiring as a way to connect to your modem/router.

I was warned about wifi and told of the glorious deity that is Powerline. I decided to purchase a USB wifi adapter for my computer to save some money. Over the course of months I realized that it was a terrible connection. I am paying for 50/10 Mbps while getting ~8/1 Mbps. The connection drops out constantly (my router is literally one room away).

Fast forward to a couple days ago. I was fed up and ordered a Powerline starter kit. Not only did it take literally 2 minutes to set up, but it came with 2 RJ-45 ethernet cables, and my connection speed is stable and exactly 50/10 as it should be. I say to you, good man, REJECT THE WIFI heathen, cast away 2 Ghz and 5 Ghz internet connections.

This is the one I bought.

u/iclimbnaked · 2 pointsr/videos

It makes sense but not really.

A we already have tech that uses the electrical system in your house to transmit internet instead of ethernet cables. Its existed for a long long time

This Lifi works through light, not through your electrical system. You have special routers that tweak lights in your home.

u/coffeesippingbastard · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

was your house pre-wired for cable TV?

You can use MOCA adapters which seem to be generally have higher throughput and don't have the noise issue you get when running powerline.

u/galloway188 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

TP-Link AV600 Powerline Ethernet Adapter - Plug&Play, Power Saving, Nano Powerline Adapter(Tl-PA4010 Kit)

It uses your existing power line so you just need to have a near by power outlet by your computer and router.

You won’t get the full advertise speed but it is a reliable connection compared to WiFi

u/TheGift1973 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Yes, we have 3-pin plugs over here.

Here is the same make/model as I had but with US plug type. (via

Shop around as you may find them cheaper elsewhere, but Amazon is pretty good with its prices for most things.

u/Iamjasonc · 2 pointsr/buildmeapc

I got this. It plugs into your wall plus and runs your internet through your electric wires. I dunno how it does it but it works lol

TP-LINK AV500 Nano Powerline Adapter Starter Kit, up to 500Mbps (TL-PA4010KIT)

u/Hutobega · 2 pointsr/PS4

PS4 specifically WIFI adapter kind of stinks. I can suggest this

honestly it worked AMAZING for me. No issues and helped connection very much.

u/khangduong_ · 2 pointsr/buildapc

i'd switch off the keyboard and invest in a ssd, probably a 120gb. Also, i'd switch out the wifi adapter with this powerline adapter ill link under my comment. its alot better than wifi all together because it connects like an ethernet cable. aside that i'd find ram with higher clock speed since the difference between the 2400mhz and 3000mhz is very little.

u/Juurrd · 2 pointsr/CableManagement

I assume they are talking about one of these. They send the internet connection through the powerlines that are already in your apartment. My friend is running one of these and says they are far faster than wifi so you should check them out.

u/redditgoogle · 2 pointsr/GTAV

Try a powerline adapter.
I've was previously dealing with spotty, unreliable WIFI for years. Bought this powerline adapater and have had no problems since. Just plug 1 end into an outlet near your modem/router and the other near your PC or PS4.

My connection hits about 40mbps down, with WIFI I could pull maybe 3 or 5.... With this powerline adapter I'm pulling 20 which just fine for multiplayer.

Seriously, the best purchase I've ever made.

u/Dudew0 · 2 pointsr/PS4

One thing to look at is a powerline adapter. It works wonders. Usually they're between 40 Link for the basic and 60 Link for the upper end ones.

u/Phase83 · 2 pointsr/windows8

Bummer. You might want to look into these network plug adapters. I haven't used them but, I've read reviews that have said they work great. Just some info for you. Also, now that you have a desktop, you will want to visit the desktop related subreddits like /r/buildapc , /r/buildapcsales and /r/pcgaming.

u/OSC_E · 2 pointsr/pcgamingtechsupport

If you have WIFI available in the house you could source a cheap USB wifi adapter, for example this one at Amazon. There are plenty to choose from, some are better than others, so find one that suits your needs. If no WIFI you could try a powerline connection but those are a bit more spendy and hit or miss if they will work for your particular house/situation. As an example this TP Link kit. Just make sure you source it from a place that accepts returns should it not work out for you.

edit A PCGamer "best of" article for USB WIFI Adapters:

edit 2 And an article at Make Use Of on Powerline adapters:

u/tateland_mundane · 2 pointsr/PS4

I was having a similar issue in my house where the wifi was real weak in a room on the other side of the house. I purchased this

Basically you take the an ethernet cable going from the router and plug it into the wall, it sends the internet through your electric wiring, you plug another one in somewhere else in the house and that one will recieve the internet signal through the wiring. The one I linked you need to plug another ethernet into then run that to your computer, gaming system, or whatever it is you need internet for, but they do make ones that have wifi as well so the wifi signal will be coming from where ever you plug it in.

Sidenote, I've seen complaints saying in the reviews saying they need to be on the same breaker, mine are on different breakers but all on the same box and it works great. I did speed tests before and after I hooked it up and the speeds were essentially the same for me.

u/KarelVega · 2 pointsr/PS4

I had that problem too, I bought one of these and now I get my full speed.

u/1137ismyfavoritetime · 2 pointsr/PS4

I've got this one. Just make sure to plug it into the wall, not a surge protector.
TP-Link AV500 Nano Powerline Adapter Starter Kit, up to 500Mbps (TL-PA4010KIT)

u/zerozed · 2 pointsr/Steam_Link

Can you connect your PC to your router and your router to your Link via ethernet cable? That would be the best way to do this. Although you can connect the Link over WiFi, the fact that your PC is also connected over WiFi means that you'll have an incredible amount of latency--and that means your games will run for shit.

You have a few options. First, leave everything as it is--i.e. your PC hooked up to router via WiFi and connect your Link to your router via WiFi (crappy results). Second option: run cable from your PC to your router and/or run cable to your Link. Any cable you can connect will improve your latency. Third option: purchase a powerline adapter set. You will need 2 or 3 adapters (minimum 500mbps) depending on how you intend to set it up. Note that powerline adapters don't work in some houses, but they mostly do. You're not supposed to plug them in to surge protectors.

If you intend to use WiFi for connection (in any manner), you really need to have a strong 5ghz connection. Hope this helps.

u/darsheas · 2 pointsr/flightsim

There are adapters that transfer internet through power outlets. I never used them, but I guess a suggestion won't hurt.

For example;

u/GeneralCanada3 · 2 pointsr/AdviceAnimals

no not usb's. it in fact uses internet cables which are usually provided

options you see on the amazin page, are the most common. there are max speeds rated, the higher the speed of the device, the more expensive. like if you have gigabit internet and you want all of it, you would probably want the 1000mbps one

you can also get ones with multiple ports so that multiple devices can use the cabled internet.

u/tylerworkreddit · 2 pointsr/smashbros

Here is an affordable one. Basically they use the existing electrical wires of your house to transmit data.

Some homes don't work as well due to the quality of the wiring, and potential interference, etc. I also am under the impression that generally you can only have one set of adapters plugged in at once, since there's not a good way to separate the signals, but it's possible that newer adapters have found a way to circumvent this.

u/Ineffective8465 · 2 pointsr/homeowners

I rewired the phone jacks in my house (built 2003). They were all going to a central point in the garage and the builders used Cat 5e, so were easily converted from phone (2 pins) to data (8 pins).

I don't think cat5 was around in the 90's, but not totally sure. If the wiring isn't already there, then yeah it will be a project to wire it, but not impossible if you're comfortable fishing wire and crawling through attics.

Powerline adapters also work great in many homes, depending on the quality of your electrical work and are plug and play. I used to use these as WiFi extenders (before switching to Unifis), and beside rebooting them once a month or so they worked fantastic.

Example of powerline adapter:

Edit: WiFi has come a long way in the past few years. Invest in a high quality WiFi setup and you may not care about having wired connections anymore.

u/AfterAtoms · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I don't think anyone's helped you on your internet question, so here's some help:

I was in the same boat and what I ended up doing was after a few hours of research, getting a powerline adapter, this one to be specific, as a powerline adapter doesn't cripple your speeds as much as regular wifi or a repeater/extender does.

Regarding how and why I chose the TP-Link AV2000, it had really good reviews and it's apparently the fastest option if you need a good, reliable connection/speeds. You could cheap out on this but expect the opposite result. As a competitive FPS gamer (csgo, h1z1, pubg, etc), any potential loss of connection can ruin your game, so if you do these things, it will help to get a better powerline adapter.

Keep in mind you'll need two ethernet cables (CAT-4-6 should work, depends on your internet speed (one that connects from one of these units into your modem, and another one from the other unit into your ethernet port on your computer)), two unused wall-plugs (highly recommended not to plug either unit into, eg: a power strip, because then there will be interference which can cause issues), and of course the powerline adapters.

Also be aware that the closer the distance between the two units, the better the connection/speed. So if you're upstairs and the router/modem is downstairs like what it is for me, connect the first unit as close upstairs as possible (of course with the extent of how far your cable is (I had a 30ft one)) and the other one as close to it and to your computer as possible.

AMA if you need any more help regarding the above (or even build help).

u/Raptor_1067 · 2 pointsr/thedivision

this is what I have, though there are better ones

For an actual wired connection, try these
The power line adapters are great if you don't have a way or means to run Ethernet, but the signal is dirty. I'm my opinion, it is better than a repeated wireless signal.

I will say though, I once used the wireless repeats, to capture wifi, that was from a router also capturing wifi, and it worked great still.

u/Shorshack · 2 pointsr/homedefense

Have you considered a Network Powerline Adapter?

Could save you the hassle of running cable.
I have these ones in particular for other reasons, and they rock.
My father is using these in their home for IP cameras and has had great success with them as well.

u/Work_Jilt · 2 pointsr/StreetFighter

You're looking for powerline ethernet adapters.

u/Markus_Antonius · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Assuming your DSL line isn't faster than 85 megabit, this would suffice:

u/PA_Dsq · 2 pointsr/PleX

I switched from wireless to the gigabit powerline Ethernet adaptor and it has worked great for me. I no longer get the"server not powerful enough" when direct playing 4k media.

This is the one I have
TP-Link AV2000 2-Ports Gigabit Powerline ethernet Adapter Kit, Power Outlet Pass-through, Powerline speeds up to 2000Mbps (TL-PA9020P KIT)

u/Stevedor · 2 pointsr/funny

That's a real thing, other than as far as I know you can't connect a USB device straight into the router. With a RaspberryPi it should be very doable. ...I kinda want to do this now.

u/chips_22 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

EDIT: There are better ones out there, this is just the first I found.

u/ShawnDex · 2 pointsr/ShieldAndroidTV

You can easily still use Ethernet with this.

TP-Link AV1000 Powerline Ethernet Adapter - Gigabit Port, Plug&Play, Power Saving(TL-PA7010 KIT)

Powerline adapter provides up to 1000Mbps Ethernet over power.

u/Ryukyay · 2 pointsr/Vive

Cheaper routers are usually set to 2.4 GHz, yeah. But you seem to have misunderstood the previous comments. You would want, if possible, a 5GHz connection. If your router doesn't support that (if it's some cheapo ISP provided one, it most likely won't), you are stuck to 2.4 GHz, which is more prone to interfernce from neighbors' WI-FI or Bluetooth. The 2.4GHz band operates on 11-14 (depending on where you live) "Channels". You want your router's channel to be set as far away from neighboring routers' channels as possible. You most likely have some way of checking surrounding routers' channels in your router's options, though it may be a bit harder to find.

That said, I have the same problem as you and changing channels does not work for me, but maybe you have more luck.
If that doesn't work, you could try a Powerline Adapter

u/Nawara_Ven · 2 pointsr/gamingsuggestions

Perhaps you could use something like this? Works really well for me.

u/a_hairbrush · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I just installed this one recently, and it's surpassed all expectations so far. Reading the reviews, I was expecting maybe 10-30% of my download speed, (which is a measly 50mbps, sadly) but I've actually been getting full or close to full speeds!

Gaming on wifi is terrible. Any online game becomes unplayable when any other person uses the internet at the same time as you. Even if you're the only person on the wifi, your neighbours wifi networks could interfere with your own. For that reason, always use wired. Yes, power line adapters will never be as good as direct Ethernet, but they are damn close!

u/EngineeredMadness · 2 pointsr/Homebrewing

Another option is ethernet-over-powerline if you have really bad through-wall reception; a repeater is fundamentally limited by how good the signal it can get. Have a gamer friend who cares about ping times and uses something like this. Just put a wireless access point at the end of it or get one with an integrated access point.

u/Kibbert · 2 pointsr/xboxone

TP-Link AV600 Nano Powerline Adapter Starter Kit, up to 600Mbps (TL-PA4010KIT)

u/morchel2k · 2 pointsr/buildapc

if you can't use ethernet, the next best thing is Powerline. It has better transfer speeds and ping than WLan and doesn't mind thick walls.

You plug it next to your router and pc and connect them via ethernet cable. They transmit the signal over your wall power cables.

u/Preblegorillaman · 2 pointsr/buildapc

As an alternative, I'd look into Powerline adapters and still hardwire your computer.

u/M5F90 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Your neighbor's internet connection is most likely more powerful to the cheaper adapter than your home internet, causing interference and therefore dropping your connection. I would recommend removing the USB adapter and using a Powerline kit instead:

u/rtechie1 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

What kind of router do you have (name and brand)?

Your router probably doesn't support PoE. In that case, you will need to use an PoE injector for the camera. If you need to support multiple PoE devices, get a PoE switch.

u/the_crosshare · 2 pointsr/computers

Depending on what router you have an what it’s capacities are in terms of wireless. This will impact your WiFi speed and latency.

Best connection will always be cabled but this can be messy so your second best option will more than likely be using a power line Ethernet adapter.

Here is an example from Amazon:

u/DZCreeper · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Moca 2 adapters that will do 1gb/s are fairly expensive, you need 2 of them so a total of $140 per link. However, this approach plus a cheap access point will give you better coverage than having a single more expensive access point.

Measure the strength of your wifi and your neighbors at various points around your house. You want to set your access points to channels with the least amount of interference, for the best performance.

If you have an android phone I recommend this app:

u/EdgarAllan_BR0 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I ended up going with this one ( )
I chose this because it had 2 Ethernet ports. Both yours and mine are almost identical when it comes to performance from what I’ve read. I have a similar arrangement to you where my pc is far away from the router so WiFi is not an option. Hoping this solves my problems!

u/Artificial_Cinnamon · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

You can use one of these

RP-SMA Male to RP-SMA Female Wifi Antenna Extension Cable Cord 2m / 6'

To extend the routers antenna. After that you can build a focusing device. Pringles can and parabolic cookware antennas are popular. Google a bit and you'll find tonnes. Extend the routers antenna for one and put a USB adapter in the other. Bam, point to point WiFi.

Wires and plumbing is a good thing. Means the holes are pre drilled and you can just piggy back. 400 ft is a long way for wifi under the best circumstances. Are you sure that's the distance?

Ethernet bought in bulk would always be the best way to go, offering the best speed and reliability. Second to that is MOCA or power line adapters. Both will be faster and more reliable than wifi over that distance. I had better luck with MOCA personally, but power line adapters can be had pretty cheap.

u/blurryleg · 2 pointsr/buildapc

This Might work well instead of running wires.

I personally have this that I use and it works great through 4 walls (router is in a closet) and across a rather large sized house.

u/Kronusx12 · 2 pointsr/xbox

Yes, although in my experience for $10 more you can get the gigabit (1,000 Mbps) adapters and future proof yourself. I don’t know where they get the “500 Mbps” number, but if you google it, all of those use 100mbps Ethernet ports “fast Ethernet” as they term it. My speed went from 50mbps to 140 Mbps when I switched from the AV500 to a gigabit adapter. I know everyone may not have over 100mbps internet now, but $10 for future proofing is worth it in my opinion. I use this one:

u/9erInLKN · 2 pointsr/dragonballfighterz

I use tp-link power line adapters and they work really well for me but Im not sure how they would work in an apartment building. All you have to do is plug one into an outlet and your router then the other one plugs into the wall and wires to your xbox. They send the signal over the powerlines but the 2 outlets and power lines all have to be on the same circuit for it to connect. In an apartment your outlets may not all be on the same circuit like they would a house. You could definitely get some from walmart or amazon and return them if they dont work. They run about $50 for cheaper ones and 80-90 for better ones

Heres what I have

u/qpgmr · 2 pointsr/linux4noobs

Take a look at the powerline networking devices available now instead. We weren't sure they would work so we bought a couple sets and tried them: flawless win.

At least three times faster that wifi, much more stable, no problems with interference, completely portable around the office/home.

I used tp-link 500Mb but my coworkers went with the gigabit version - completely intercompatible!

We've sworn off wifi except for handhelds.

u/sivartk · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I think you are a little confused. PoE = Power over Ethernet (which by definition requires an Ethernet cable). Maybe tell us what equipment (Brand / Model) you have and what you are trying to accomplish and then we can help you.

I can try and read between the lines and say that you have a PoE Access Point and want to use it in the garage as a repeater instead of an access point (since you can't get a ethernet cable to it). You could still power it by PoE with an PoE injector in the garage for power only. You will just have to buy an injector that uses the same PoE standard as your device.

u/m_theredhead · 2 pointsr/Ubiquiti

I have a similar need and I tried using the wireless uplink feature and using a second UAP AC, but as noted in the other comments, the performance was not great.

I bought a Western Digital WD bridge from ebay for $35 and it works pretty well.

The throughput was about double what I was getting compared to a second UAP-AC-PRO and it only cost about $35. It is a little temperamental and needs to be rebooted occasionally.

I really wish there was a UBNT solution (AC bridge ) that didn't require going to their airmax products as the intermediate link.

Also as mentioned, the power line products have gotten much better. I just bought a couple of the AV2 power line adapters with mimo and get really good throughput on those. I had tried the previous generation and found them unusable. Something like:

u/TheGurmagAngler · 2 pointsr/buildapc

As far as internet goes, I ran into a similar problem with my build, and I bought the motherboard that was suggested to you in this thread that has built in Wi-Fi Unfortunately, that device's built in Wi-Fi isn't strong enough to go reach from the basement to the second story of a house. Additionally, I read several Amazon reviews saying that it couldn't get signal even on the same level through several walls.

Can you elaborate on your internet situation? Originally, I bought a wireless USB adapter for my PC, and it was pretty solid, but as far as gaming goes, I kept getting random ping spikes, resulting in characters skipping around. I'd definitely suggest a Powerline Adapter if you're significantly far away from your router. I bought this one, but there are definitely cheaper versions of it out there. I'd highly recommend it. It's as close as you can get to direct wiring to a router that's far away. Gaming has been smooth sailing for me ever since.

u/braiinfried · 2 pointsr/PS4

Yea get a wired extension and LAN your ps4 it sounds like a connection issue with the cloned extender TP-Link AV600 Powerline Ethernet Adapter - Plug&Play, Power Saving, Nano Powerline Adapter(TL-PA4010 KIT)

u/MiKe---2015 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I've been using powerline adapters for a long time and get my full speed, it all depends on the wiring in your house, I'm using these right now you can always send them back if you don't get what you want.

u/Dark_24 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Well lets step out of the can or worms and give you some realistic advice now =)

Power Line adapters are not a bad idea. Just as Wireless is not a bad idea.. It is just not as good as hard run Ethernet..

That is the best one you can get.. right now..

The trick to power line adapter is that it is hit or miss if they will work.. Some people get good speeds.. Other people crap speeds.. you should expect at best to get about half the rated speed..

So using the 500Mbps older version might give you an acceptable speed, but then again it might not..

The ONLY true way to figure out what will work is to GET them and try them.. If they do not work out make sure you get them from someplace like amazon so you can easily return them if they do not work out..

honestly I would not overly cheap out on the lower ones. They are based on older technology that is not as reliable..

The newer version of these are doing better and better.

Also keep in mind where you are plugging these things in..

So say you have a window AC unit in your room plugged into you wall outlet.. That might cause your speeds to tank due to interference.. same goes for anything else.. Microwaves / fridges / dryers / HAIR dryers lol yea I have had people that said their internet went real slow when the wife was blow drying their hair or using the Iron to iron cloths..

If you imagine how your house is wired.. all the little loops that go to each breaker and what each breaker controls - you will have an idea of what types of things might cause you not to get close to the rated speed of the PA you are using..

With a hard wired Modem/Router I once had an issue with my father that when a halogen desk lamp was turned on at night the internet would completely drop. Yes that was fun to figure out..

The story is a funny one...

So the best thing you can do it TRY it out and see how it works for you..

u/Doiq · 2 pointsr/wiiu

You can get Internet over your electrical wiring. I have a variant of these in my house and they work perfectly.

u/DaNPrS · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

How far are we talking? Will the reception be acceptable or do you thing a powerline would offer a more stable connection.

The "problem" with AC is that it's really only great on the 5GHz band. And the 5GHz band kind of sucks in terms of range. It's terrible at penetrating walls. On my AC set up I get 760Mbps connection, but this very quickly drops off once I walk out the router room. Sometimes even losing connection and having to switch to the older band.

By comparison, the 2.4GHz band is much better at range. But your speeds are going to be cut in more then half most likely.

u/Aquagoat · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

If you've got a PCI slot on your mobo free you can get a wireless card to put in there for sure. Like this.
You could also get an Ethernet Over Power kit like this. You'd plug one into an outlet near your router, and run an ethernet cable from the router to it. Then plug the second one in near your PC, and connect to it with your ethernet cable. Voila. I've never used them, but I have a friend who uses one with great success.

u/SlayerGM · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Yeah I could try this one and hey if I can't return then I am only $40 down

Do you think that would be a good adapter?

u/jamvanderloeff · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Usually no. Either run an ethernet cable, use a pair of MoCA adapters to run ethernet over your cable wiring, or Powerline adapters to run it over your power wiring, or use WiFi..

u/KevShallPerish · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I currently have these ones and they work great. You just have to make sure both places where you plug them in are on the same power circuit or they won't be able to talk at all. They are also a major improvement over Wi-Fi in my opinion and cheap to experiment with since they don't cost an arm and a leg.

u/BDizzleNizzle · 2 pointsr/GameDeals

In home streaming sucks over wifi. It has to be over a wired connection (unless maybe you have one of those $300 routers that looks like a stealth bomber).

What you want is a powerline adapter. It's voodoo magic that runs your internet through your copper power wires. Here's a link to the one I have on Amazon

I have my router down in my basement laundry room plugging into one of these in an outlet, then I have another one 50 ft away in a common room for a PC, and another one upstairs 150 ft away for the family computer. They work great and I can run games downstairs on the beefy computer and stream them to the 23 inch all in one upstairs with no lag. Highly recommended.

u/Balmung · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Use a MoCA adapter. Instead of network over power lines it's network over coax, which is in most all houses for TV hookups.

I started using earlier this year and it's great, I get consistent 90Mbps throughput.

It can coexist with your cable TV and if you have FIOS you actually only need one adapter as FIOS modem/router uses MoCA so one adapter can be used to connect to the modem in another room.

u/GrammarNaziCarrot · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/Ucla_The_Mok · 2 pointsr/techsupportmacgyver

No, you wouldn't.

All you would need is a laptop or desktop with a PoE Ethernet port.

Since that's highly unlikely, you could buy a PoE injector for under $20-

u/manarius5 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

>Is buying just an Actiontec-WBC6200Q02 a simple solution with my hardware?

No. You need something to be the "source" of the MoCA network, so you would need something like this: to pair with the WCB6200Q.

Additionally, you may have a hiccup because MoCA and DOCSIS 3.1 (the technology that runs your cable modem) use the same frequency space. You can try to use the modem and MoCA adapters at the same time, but no guarantee that they will work because of the frequency issue. The way you'd get around this is to make sure that the cable you're using for the MoCA is isolated from the rest of the cable network.

u/IlllIIIIIIlllll · 2 pointsr/techsupport

It uses your eletrical wiring as a ethernet line.

That's the exact model we've used at work sometimes. It's dead simple to use. Just plug them into where you want a connection to and from, then connect the ethernet cables and you're done. In your case you'd plug one into an outlet near the modem inside the main house, and plug the other one into an outlet in the guest house.

Though it might not work since you're in a guest house. I've no idea how guest houses are supplied electricity. If it's connect as if it were connected more or less just another room in the main house then I suppose it should work.

u/Torschlusspaniker · 2 pointsr/techsupport

It does not matter, the AV500 will get no where near the speed where it would matter.

Mixing cat5 and cat6 will be fine. I recommend returning the TP-Link AV500 and getting the AV2000. I have both and the AV2000 kicks the crap out of the AV500.

There was a coupon last week for $20 (over now) but it may go on sale again. They are planing a wifi enabled version by the end of the year/ early next year.

u/IMLOwl · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking
u/zrouse · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I have this one and it works great. The speed will largely be determined by the home wiring setup and distance. I get near 95% efficiency with it one room away in a new building for example.

TP-LINK AV500 Nano Powerline Adapter Starter Kit, up to 500Mbps (TL-PA4010KIT)

u/bdm722 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

So an update if anyone finds themselves here at some point. I bought a power line adapter, the one I linked below, and my ping went from 200 ms over the wireless range extender to 84 ms over the power line adapter. I decided to buy through amazon because of their return policy if it didn't work. Now I haven't pushed the data limits of this thing but I get pretty much all of the data throughput I should get (a whopping 25mb/s... take that fiber lol)

Now, why am I in this situation?
I'm living in an in law suite so I don't have the flexibility to drill holes through floors & walls to get cable from one side of the house to where I am. Also, I considered MoCa but there is literally only one coax cable in the main house living room. None where I live.

u/rageaccount373733 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I got you. I have a similar setup. So here’s what you need.

Wilson Electronics Wideband Directional Antenna 700-2700 MHz, 50 Ohm (314411)

Buy two of these. Place on a pole as high as you can get it. Mount them 45° and -45°. That’s how LTE is polarized.


Heavy Duty Weather Proof Multi...

Put the M1 in this on the pole too.

Use this to send power up the Outdoor cat6 cable:

TP-LINK TL-PoE150S PoE Injector Adapter, IEEE 802.3af Compliant, up to 100 Meters (325 Feet)

And this to pull the power out of the Cat6

ANVISION Gigabit PoE Splitter,...

Then convert the mini to USB C:

ARKTEK USB-C Adapter, USB Type C (Male) to Micro USB (Female) Syncing Data Transfer and Charging Converter for Chromebook Galaxy S10 Note 9, Pixel 3 and More (Black/White, Pack of 4)


That’ll get you where you want. Don’t get a booster or anything else. It’ll make your signal slower.

Put the whole thing on the pole because if you leave it inside you’ll get a lot of signal loss along those long cables.


Now the M1 is a 4x4 MIMO which claims it can get you gigabit speeds. But once you plug in the external antennas you’ll get 2x2 MIMO. the only way to solve this is a bit hacky.

You’ll need this:

(This isn’t me but it’s the only guy I’ve seen selling these wires)

Then you’ll need two of these:

weBoost Outdoor Directional Yagi Antenna with N Female Connector 301111 for 700/800/900 MHz Band

These will be you MAIN antennas. While the other covered ones will be your additional.

To explain. LTE towers send out 45° 800mhz, -45° 800mhz, 45° 2700 MHz, and -45° 2700 MHz You need an antenna for each. This will get you the fastest speed and best reliability. But this is hacky. I haven’t done this, YET. I’ve just planned it all out. I’m using a LB1211 with two covered yagis. I’ve gotten up to 70mbps with just that 2x2 setup (in a valley).

I plan on getting an M1 with 4 antennas soon, but right now my pole situation sucks. I need to figure out a better solution first. Then I’ll be comfortable spending that much more money. But just getting those two covered yagis and putting you M1 up until the pole, you’ll get a much better issue

u/Artesian · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Power. Line. Adapter. 3 magic words. Change your life.

This is just one, feel free to get any from Tp-link or Netgear. Plug an ethernet cable into the transmitter end, plug into any outlet. (not a power strip) Plug the receive end into a plug in your basement abode (not a power strip), plug ethernet cable into receiver... and boom. "Wireless" wired internet.

u/Lancks · 2 pointsr/pcgaming

Honestly an Ethernet cord isn't a terrible idea if you can run a cable thru vents or in the walls. Barring that, two other options: Wi-fi, which might be hard given the range, and powerline, which varies house to house. Something like this might work.

u/r3ddux · 2 pointsr/homeassistant

The camera is connected to this PoE injector. The injector itself is connected to this repeater. It has a ethernet port that can be used to either connect the repeater via cable or to "translate the wifi to ethernet". The repeater is connected to my Unifi ap. Thats it.

I just don't wanted a normal wifi camera for security reasons. Also it wasn't possible for me to run a network cable to the camera itself. That's why I use this "complicated" method.

Edit: here is a really crappy picture I drawed on mobile :D

u/popemasta · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

Look to amazon, 4 stars and up!

Seems to be good, there's cheaper options.

u/TyroneTheWhiteWIzard · 2 pointsr/buildapcforme

Honestly, even though this goes against your preferences a bit, I would personally choose this over what you are asking for. Explanation below.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU | Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor | $257.98 @ Newegg Canada
CPU Cooler | Corsair H100i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | $112.84 @ Amazon Canada
Motherboard | MSI Z97-GAMING 5 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $168.98 @ Newegg Canada
Memory | A-Data XPG V1.0 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $157.98 @ Newegg Canada
Storage | PNY Optima 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $123.32 @ TigerDirect Canada
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $104.99 @ NCIX
Video Card | MSI Radeon R9 290 4GB TWIN FROZR Video Card (2-Way CrossFire) | $434.99 @ NCIX
Video Card | MSI Radeon R9 290 4GB TWIN FROZR Video Card (2-Way CrossFire) | $434.99 @ NCIX
Case | Corsair 750D ATX Full Tower Case | $149.98 @ Newegg Canada
Power Supply | SeaSonic X Series 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $189.98 @ Newegg Canada
Optical Drive | Samsung SH-224DB/BEBE DVD/CD Writer | $15.79 @ DirectCanada
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) | $99.79 @ DirectCanada
Monitor | AOC e2752Vh 60Hz 27.0" Monitor | $199.00 @ Canada Computers
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $2430.61
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-08-12 00:54 EDT-0400 |

Then get your peripherals.

This will perform perfectly to what you want to do.

An Intel I5 will not perform any differently from an I7 with what you are doing with it. No need to spend money for no reason.

You don't nee to buy thermal paste, it comes pre applied with the H100i.

Better Motherboard, if you want to you can upgrade to the Gaming 7 but it has almost no difference.

Cheaper SSD for the same performance.

Dual R9 290s are more powerful than a single 290x, obviously, you can still get away with a single r9 290 and it will still destroy the games you want to play, but for a budget so large no need not to, just don't go 3-4 way crossfire, it is a waste of money, power, and is crazy on heat.

1000 watts is unnecessary, 850 is still overkill really.

Cheaper optical drive, this really doesn't matter.

Windows 8.1 is so much better than 7, you can download a couple programs to change the layout back to 7, and it has better performance, and it supports more games, and more future games.

You can get the same monitor really, but this one is cheaper, if you want 1 less milisecond response time (unnoticable) and 144hz instead of 60 go right ahead.

Sound cards are snake oil, don't buy any at all.

Ethernet is much much better than wireless. You can either connect via an ethernet cord, or if you are setting up in another room from your modem, use [powerline] (, you plug one end into an outlet near your modem, and connect an ethernet cord, then the other end in an outlet near your computer, then an ethernet from that to your computer, it provides ethernet like speed without a cord running around your house. Also if you do get wireless, you only need one, not two adapters.

You don't need speakers, both the monitor you chose and the one I chose have them built in.

I can make this even cheaper and keep enough performance to dominate current games if you want, just PM me if you have any questions.

u/RoDid · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Do you know how many Mbps upload/download you have to your home?

It may not be an issue then. Just try out the dongle and if you feel it is giving you issues, you have 3 options.

  1. Buy a better WIFI USB Dongle

  2. Buy a PCI-E or any PCI wifi card.
    Something like this:

  3. Purchase Powerline adapters.
    Something like this:
u/Veneroso · 2 pointsr/frontierfios


These aren't guaranteed to work but if running wires isn't your thing and you're ok with a little extra latency you can pretty much get an ethernet connection anywhere in the house though the electrical outlets with these.

u/bestjejust · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Have you thought of using a powerline solution with ingegrated wifi? For best coverage install it in every room and configure small cell sizes (=reduced transmit power), so your devices will roam around in your house.


You should consider of buying an 802.11ac compatible model for best throughput and to avoid the overfilled 2,4 GHz band.

Edit: of course you could use a wired connection over powerline aswell. I don't recommend to play games over wifi. You will have air congestion which leads to lag.

u/PGZ4sheezy · 2 pointsr/PS4

So, after a good hour and a half of research, I decided I really liked the ones you linked me for the price, but I gotta go all out on this. Especially since I may be moving out with a friend soon who will also be a heavy Internet user (Destiny, anime, Netflix streaming, etc).

Ended up going with this model and some surprisingly cheap CAT7 Ethernet cables in the hopes that they will be heavy duty and future proof. From what I've read, both the top-of-the-line adapters and the high-grade cables are super overkill for what I actually have as an Internet setup. But after 3 years of being mocked as the lagging guy in raids, I will do anything for an upgrade.

If these work, I thank you from the bottom of my heart. Thank you for opening my eyes to this solution!

u/rishicourtflower · 2 pointsr/Chromecast

I think you can do it if you're willing to settle for two separate adapters - first a PoE to separate Ethernet+MicroUSB, and then Ethernet+MicroUSB to OTG.

For instance this Ethernet-OTG adapter - which I know works with a Chromecast - would probably work fine with this adapter this adapter.

u/The_Funky_Stink · 2 pointsr/Ubiquiti

Just get an actiontec moca adapter. I used those for friends who don't use TiVo. I'm pretty sure the class 2 moca's are out.

Actiontec Bonded MoCA 2.0 Ethernet to Coax Adapter (ECB6200S02)

u/kevjs1982 · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Depends what you mean - there are a number of things CoAx can be used from in conjunction with a (set of) Raspberry Pi(s) with the details being country specific

  1. Legally watch Free to Air Broadcast TV - Get a DVB-T/T2 or DVB-S/S2 tuner if you're in Europe or an ATSC tuner if you are in North America. Install TV Headend (comes with OSMC) and connect the tuner to your aerial or satellite dish via the Coax and the tuner to your PI (Only Ireland, the UK, and Germany have full free to air presence via Satellite for there main channels AFAIK - most places you'll need an aerial which can receive digital tv broadcasts) - you can now watch and record (with a suitable external hard disk) broadcast TV on all your RPi's using something like OSMC. You can use one tuner to watch all the channels on one multiplex at the same time - in the UK that might be BBC ONE HD on one Pi, BBC TWO HD on a second one, and ITV-1 HD on a third. In Boston USA that could be WGBH-DT1, WGBH-DT2, WGBH-DT3, and WGBH-DT4 at the same time. You can add more tuners to increase flexibility.

  2. Share the video output of one RPi round the house - If you mean watch the output of one RPi on all the TV's in the house via the TV's built in analogue tuner - then an RF Modulator will allow you to take the composite output of the RPi and modulate it onto an analogue TV frequency. If you were in the UK Something like the TRIAX TRI-LINK Kit coupled with a TVLink at the remote end and an IR receiver at the main PI would allow you to do this. You can also get DVB-T Modulators with built in HDMI inputs for better quality. However the cost of these and the low costs of RPi's means it's just cheaper to get multiple RPi's.

  3. Use the Coax as network cable - In the US MOCA adapters (e.g. ) allow you to use your existing coax cable as a substitute for running Ethernet cables - however they are expensive, if possible you just want to run some Ethernet cabling.

    However when it comes to Value for Money 2 and 3 are pretty much a waste - WiFi and Ethernet are less expensive alternatives which should work just as well or much better. 1, depending what channels you can receive FTA via your aerial/satellite dish may well be a sound investment. Unless you have a large number of rooms where you always want to watch the same programme as on the main set don't bother with 2. either (the only reason I've done that is I already had the RF Modulator from when we used to share Freesat)

    RE: Point 1, A few things to note if you're in Europe:-
  • Germany, which has historically had extensive FTA broadcasts on satellite, the commercial FTA channels are in standard def only (i.e. HD is only for ARD, ZDF, and the third channels) - while over on DVB-T the only FTA services are those from ARD/ZDF/3rds and use x265 which the PIs struggle with - i.e. in Germany you want to choose satellite and you'll be stuck on SD.
  • Ireland - You won't be able to use a Sky dish for FTA channels from RTÉ - you'll need a dish aimed at KA-SAT which carries Soarsat - if you can get it Soarview is a better choice as it includes UTV Ireland.
  • UK - Local TV channels (e.g. Notts TV) and Sony Movie Channel are only FTA on terrestrial, but otherwise Freesat is now the better choice and can use an ex-Sky box coax cable/dish
u/trashkanman · 2 pointsr/arduino

For the arduino, I'm not sure if there's a great real time way to do this application easily outside of wiring a power relay to control something like this:

For slightly slower than real time solutions:
If I were to approach this application, I might use the Arduino for my data collection and a Raspberry Pi 3 for internet control. The Raspberry Pi 3 has both a wired and wireless connection, which you could configure into a controllable wireless network adaptor - you can bridge the network connection between the two adaptors. So either you setup the ethernet to output internet from the wireless network, or use the wireless adaptor as a hotspot from an ethernet controller that the xbox is configured to connect to. From there, write a program to toggle whether one of the adaptors is enabled / disabled (or break the bridge, there are lots of solutions here) depending on the data the output data from the Arduino.

Configuration setup instructions for Wireless input, Ethernet output:

Configuration setup instructions for Ethernet input, Wireless output:

You could also probably cut out the Arduino depending on how many things you're measuring, but I don't much about the GPIO pins on the adaptor.

u/kiwiandapple · 2 pointsr/buildapcforme

On board sound on most Z170 motherboards is very acceptable in terms of quality these days.
It does depends a lot on what your audio "gear" is, what headphones/headset? Some headphones are pretty demanding in terms of power that is needed to get the most out of them. With power I mean the ohms / impedance level. If you go above the 100 Ohms, you need to have a pretty good Amplifier (AMP) on board to be able to get the headphones to provide the music that's intended to get out of them.

There are just a few motherboards that really put a lot of emphasis on the on-board audio, such as the Gigabyte Z170X Gaming 5.
That motherboard is able to power 600 impedance / ohm headphones. Which are considered the top tier headphones. There are only a handful, very expensive headphones that go above this impedance level.
It also got 2 USB ports that are designed for external DAC/AMPs. The yellow ones to be exact, those ports are designed so that they provide very clean power. Which improves the signal clarity. It's not extremely noticeable in most cases, but especially compared to older motherboards, it's can be a dramatic improvement.
Than lastly, this motherboard got an AMP on it that you can swap out for other ones, in case you don't like the sound signature that this one provides. So absolutely a motherboard that is designed with audio very much in mind.

Gigabyte in general really are the best in terms of on board audio, they just focus on it very heavily and I love it.

An external sound solution like a DAC/AMP is in most cases going to improve the sound quality a fair amount. But before you make that investment, you really need to have some high quality headphones to even make use of it.

You're talking at the $100-200+ range of headphones like the;

  • Sennheiser HD558 & Sennheiser HD598s
  • Beyerdynamic DT999
  • AKG K701
  • Philips Fidelio X1/28
  • Audio-Technica ATH-AD900x

    I can go further with this list..

    Just to give you a grasp on "sound". It's of course also very important to note that all ears are different and we all prefer different styles of music.
    Some like bass, others like "clean" sounds. Some prefer techno, while others like classical. All of this matters in terms of which headphones to buy, what DAC/AMP to use or even slightly on how to set up your software / EQ settings to get the "best" out of them for your use case.


    In terms of your WiFi card. I disagree with suggesting a $100 WiFi card..

    WiFi depends on a lot of things. Not just the WiFi adapter that's in your PC.

  • Router signal strenght!
  • Router / ISP internet speed
  • Walls the signal needs to penetrate through
  • Interference with other devices
  • WiFi card

    If only one of those 4 things above the WiFi card is weak, it doesn't matter that you've got a $100 card, the signal might still be pretty bad, weak or simply lose connection.

    So I much more prefer to spend a bit less on the card and rather invest in a much better router as a start. If you have a 2.4GHz network router & get that $100 card.. it performs roughly the same as a $20 card.
    If you do have a 5GHz network router then in almost all cases the $35 gigabyte card will work almost identical.

    If you still have issues with both a 5GHz router + WiFi card, you have big troubles in terms of signal strength, so you may have to invest into either a repeater that "repeats" the signal.

  • RouterWiFi repeaterWiFi card / PC

    If you still have troubles (my god you're living inside a rock..) then you have to get an ethernet powerline adapter. This will make the internet go over your power lines. So you plug in one powerline adapter at your router, then plug in an ethernet cable from the router into this adapter.
    Then place the 2nd adapter close near your PC and then again connect that adapter with an ethernet cable to the PC.

    The internet will flow over your powerlines, it will reduce the speed a bit, but it works pretty well in most cases.
    However, you preferably want to use the same power group / circuit in your home for this to work the best.
    This TP-Link one is a highly rated one.


    If you or anyone got more questions regarding this information, please don't hesitate to ask.

u/DirtySwampThang · 2 pointsr/PS4Pro

If you can't run a cable from your router to your PS4, highly recommend PowerLine Adapters, like this one:



Plug one into the wall by your router and connect it using Ethernet.


Plug one near your PS4 and run ethernet to the PS4.


Bam. You now have a gigabit wired connection using the power wires in the walls of your house.

I run mine to a switch in my entertainment center that connects my PS4, PS4 Pro, TV and Hue Hub to the wired LAN.




u/jasonin951 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I bought my 2 story house brand new over 6 years ago and unfortunately did not choose to get it pre-wired with Ethernet so my options are pretty limited. The builder did however include a single Ethernet connection from the outside telecom box to my living room. With this I was able to connect the ONT to my Ubiquiti USG in the living room and get wifi through the house with the connected AC Lite. However I have a lot of ethernet connected gear in my office (computer, Microcell, NAS, etc) which is on the first floor but does not have an adjoining wall to the living room.

I use 2 of these to connect the office and living room and they are extremely reliable and allow my full 500/500 internet connection in my office:

u/Chimerith · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

The ubiquity one is PoE, not EoP. It will not work.

TP has extremely well rated [options on amazon](TP-Link AV1000 Powerline Ethernet Adapter - Gigabit Port, Plug&Play, Power Saving(TL-PA7010 KIT) for $40-50. It will likely meet your needs just fine. I’m not an expert on specific products though. Just be sure to read the reviews, which have a lot of advice about getting good performance.

u/gusgizmo · 2 pointsr/networking

VDSL (aka extended reach ethernet) would be the most robust as you don't have midspan unit. I've had great luck with the startech units, these look like carbon copies of those units for $100 less--

Otherwise, PoE powered switch/repeater midspan sounds like the ticket. Something like this:

And an injector:

Having something that needs an outlet to plug into halfway just feels half baked. 398 feet I'd roll the dice on forcing 10/100 first to see if it works. I've had gigabit work over longer.

u/falconPancho · 2 pointsr/homesecurity

You can use a Canary or Piper plus a POE splitter cable like this one. Both have ethernet ports and a micro usb port. Arlo Q also has a POE model. All are essentially kind of bleh without the reoccuring services. Arlo Q is free* but my suspicion is that is only till they dominate the market and wipe out the little startups. Most people willing to run POE will just do a NVR solution since the total cost of ownership is lowest that way. It does put more responsibility on you the owner to keep up with patches and security. Blink and arlo battery powered are motion triggered so expect to miss a lot of motion or recharge more often.

u/PhantomGamers · 2 pointsr/technology

You can use any router with Verizon for internet, however if you also get TV through Verizon you either need to chain your preferred router to your Verizon router (and then you can just disable WIFI on the Verizon router), or you can get a MOCA 2.0 ethernet to coax adapter instead and solely use your custom router.

I should say, your TV will work without that but you won't have access to the guide or on demand options.

Check this thread on the Verizon forums for more information.

u/GillyTC · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I had a some powerline adapters These TP-Link ones. I don't really use them anymore, it just doesn't make sense when you can get cheap, and decent APs.

u/binarycow · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking
u/MofoJack · 2 pointsr/homelab

I run one of these on my Pi3 and it works like a champ

u/jayact · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Here is an example of one. You take an outgoing ethernet cable from the router, and plug it into one of these bad boys. You plug the other one wherever you want to receive internet. This will use your house's circuitry to transmit the signal, through some black magic. It's cost effective at only $40, has minimal drop off in signal, and it allows you to add a repeater or second router to the other end.

u/Razgriz1223 · 2 pointsr/PS4

I purchased one a year ago and still use it to this day. Once I linked both units, I left it plugged it in and just left it and never had any problems.

I went from 3 megabits down and 200 kilobits up

To 60 Megabits down and 15 Megabits up. So huge improvement, more like what I paid for

I got the TP-Link AV600 Nano Powerline Adapter

u/dunger · 2 pointsr/PS4

I use a power line network in my house. The speeds are not much faster than my wifi, but the connection is solid. So if you're issues are due to a poor wifi connection a powerline adapter should solve your problem.

I use these. For $30 it is probably worth checking out.

u/GODDZILLA24 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I'm gonna tell you now, you're going to get sick of moving it between rooms really fast. It might be a better option to look for a streaming device, like a steam link, and using a powerline ethernet adapter.

u/pickled_monkey · 2 pointsr/homelab

Ubiquiti EdgeRouter POE

or any OpenWrt-compatible router and a couple of POE Injectors

u/FuzzyMistborn · 2 pointsr/Ubiquiti

I haven't done it myself, but my understanding is what you would do is set up the ubiquiti router as your main router connected to the Verizon ONT via ethernet. You would need a number of MOCA bridges to connect the ethernet from your ubiquiti router to your coax runs for the TV (here's an example MOCA bridge). I'd suggest having a separate switch to handle the MOCA bridges just to keep it all segregated (and potentially VLAN'd off). That should get you what you're after (but again, I have not personally done this nor have I really looked into it in great detail).

u/Mercutio991 · 2 pointsr/linuxhardware

So as far as WiFi is concerned I used a panda usb adapter for the longest time. I believe everything in the panda line up works out of the box. But since it seems that ur just worried about cables running across the house I would recommend a powerline adapter. The way they work is u have to wall outlets (one by the PC and one by your motem) and u plug it he Ethernet cables into these wall outlets and the signal is carried over the powerlines in your house. They are a lot faster and more reliable from my experience and are easy to set up as long as you have an open wall outlet near your 2 entry points. Here is the one I use:
TP-Link Av1000 Powerline Ethernet Adapter - Gigabit Port, Plug&Play, Power Saving(Tl-PA7010 Kit)

u/Kineticus · 2 pointsr/technology

Ditch the wifi repeater. That's no good for gaming. Replace it with power line network adapters. Here's one on the fancier side:

You plug in the base by the main cable modem/wifi router and attach it via Ethernet. Then you plug the other wireless hotspot in the needed area. You may have to try a few rooms if the signal is weak (houses have 2 phases of electricity, works best when the base and wifi extended are on the same phase). Lastly set the wifi repeater to have the same SSID and password, also make sure to select different and far apart channels. You can make the wifi worse if they are conflicting. For 2.4ghz use channel 3 on one and 11 on the other. For 5ghz use channel 40 or so for one and 130 for the other. Now computers will see many choices for wireless and connect to the strongest one.

In my old 1950's house (original wires) I get about 250 megabits over the powerline from one side of the house to the other (~75 feet)

u/RenThraysk · 2 pointsr/UsbCHardware

Might be easier use PoE (Power over Ethernet). Even possibly convert a non PoE printer to one with a PoE splitter.

u/certifiedintelligent · 2 pointsr/Ubiquiti

Eh, there are gigabit+ powerline adapters out there.

I've actually never had a problem with powerline. Used it to connect game consoles just out of reach of the wifi and never experienced an issue in the two apartments or one house I've used them in.

u/Dmelvin · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

If you have coax everywhere. MoCA is the way to go

u/rizz091 · 2 pointsr/PUBGXboxOne

Ok I posted this as a reply before, but for anyone who hasn't seen it and who is playing on wifi because they have no feasible way of connecting an ethernet to their router from where their xbox is, your issue has been solved!

Buy a tp link. This little guy plugs into your wall, it has ethernet ports for you to plug into. One is used on your xbox, another connects to your router. The signal is then sent through the powerline. It works amazingly and is only $40 for a starter kit on amazon. There is no excuse other than ignorance that you are playing on wifi.

u/tauisgod · 2 pointsr/ouya

Have you seen the price of powerline adapters? They've gotten ridiculous cheap.

u/FUKtheCARDINALS · 2 pointsr/cincinnati
u/Jedi_Lucky · 2 pointsr/xboxone

Its probably a new interference source in the area.

Hardline in; fixed.

Alternately if you cant hardline for whatever reason powerline 35$:

u/coololly · 2 pointsr/buildapc

> Do i have to buy any additional hardware to do that?

Just the powerline adapters. Thats it, nothing else.

> Will it be cheaper than spending 86$ on the Asus Ac68?


u/JustAnotherGraySuit · 2 pointsr/DIY

If you can push Ethernet over electrical wires, why not over coax too?

It's not cheap, but it certainly works. The MoCA standard exists for precisely this sort of issue. Media converters exist for almost anything under the sun.

u/DizzyRip · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

You may want to try looking into using a powerline adapter. /r/homenetworking hates them because the results vary by each use case. You could try that as a solution and if it works keep it, if not return it.

In the case that it works it's maybe a 15-30 min setup.

Others have mentioned using existing cable runs with a coax to eth converter and that would work too.

Powerline Adapter

u/Aerialbear · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

You can using either the official Raspberry Pi PoE hat or an adapter like this one:

My home network is also all Unifi and about every Raspi I have on it is running off of PoE. It's a little more challenging making it look pretty with cable management but I'm always happy to save a power outlet where I can.

u/SysAtMN · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Yes and yes.

There are various MoCA adapters out there pending on how you want to terminate your connections. Adapters that carry both cable tv and Ethernet are going to be more expensive than just an Ethernet adapter.

Some general information on how MoCA works can be found here:

u/eras · 2 pointsr/homelab

No link, but you can use a splitter for incompatible devices.

Edit: though why not link to that? Ie. .

u/mrsolo · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

No, because unifi AP is imo better hw.. You want to run DHCP server there. You want to turn of DHCP on tplink by either assign it a static ip or have it getting it from your unifi AP.

But really, if you are going with powerline solution, you probably want to look into something like this

Save a bit of space and with 5ghz radio.

u/bwfailcan · 2 pointsr/RocketLeague

You're dealing with unreliable wifi not only connecting to your extender, but also having your extender connect to your main router. I'd look into using a powerline adapter rather than a wifi range extender.

This not only keeps the wifi extender capability, but also provides an ethernet port, which is what you would want.

Here's a youtube video on how powerline adapters work.

u/e60deluxe · 2 pointsr/techsupport

a benefit that laptops have is that their antenna is is built into the screen so its usually longer, angled up and in clear view while desktops usually sit on the floor.

an external adapter would certainly help. but if you game, i would look into powerline ethernet kits.

u/xALPHA99x · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/Destroyer210 · 2 pointsr/PS4

Try this powerline adapter set. Comes with 2, which is what you need. It's basically a replacement for an Ethernet cord, so instead of running wire throughout your house, you plug in the adapter to an outlet, connect that adapter to your router WITH AN ETHERNET CABLE, and then plug the second one in an outlet in your room upstairs and connect it to your PS4 with an ethernet cable. So for this to work, you need 2 ethernet cables. This set that I am linking comes with the 2 adapters but not 2 ethernet cables. I swear by these adapters, I have them plugged in right now and hooked up to my PS4 and my NAT Type is always Open.

Best Buy Link:

Amazon Link:

u/netadmindave · 2 pointsr/amazonecho

If the show has a barrel plug that is 5v, 9v, or 12v this tplink adaper is great. I have been using them for a while with great results.

u/agoomba · 2 pointsr/homesecurity

Here ya go: TP-Link Gigabit Ethernet PoE Splitter Adapter (TL-PoE10R)

u/redmage311 · 2 pointsr/Warframe

I use a powerline Internet adapter like this and get nearly Ethernet speeds despite my modem being across the house from my computer. Not sharing the Wi-Fi with everybody's cell phones and whatnot is great.

u/dtallon13 · 2 pointsr/techsupportgore

These? Pretty sure it's magic

u/bpennypacker · 2 pointsr/pihole

Nothing too fancy about my pi-holes running on RPi 3's. I am running a slightly modified version of chronometer2, and since my switch is PoE I'm using that as a power supply for the Pi's. I found this handy PoE splitter that works wonderfully for powering the Pi's from the switch.

u/mirlyn · 2 pointsr/RTLSDR

Something like this?.... Interesting idea. Thanks!

u/IceZ23 · 2 pointsr/Ubiquiti

I am running a pi hole and use this to power and connect the zero to the POE switch.. Works remarkable well and I think it was about 8 bux when I bought it.

u/fourg · 2 pointsr/IAmA

Do you have coax wired in your house already? I highly recommend Ethernet over Coax rather than powerline or wifi for stability. If you need better throughout you might as well run Ethernet.

u/PM_Me_Halloween_Pics · 2 pointsr/computers

Either run a cable or use something like this. Powerline Ethernet will not be as good as running a cable. There are also "wifi repeaters" that you could set up to extend your wifi signal.

u/ceresia · 2 pointsr/techsupport

The model I used for a church is discontinued and replaced by newer, but the Ubiquiti PowerBeam series are quite nice. Our buildings were around 150ft apart and we have full speed at the receiving end:


Connect a WAP at the receiving end of the antenna and you have WiFi 500FT away.

Edit: Yeah $200 plus some cabling and install time isn't "Cheap" to some, but you can repurpose them after the party or attach them if you ever do another party. I don't think powerline would do well at 500ft but you can definitely try PowerLine Adapters - Just make sure you catch the same run of electricity that is shared with the house (If the electric is a separate service than the house then these won't work at all

u/brosephargon · 2 pointsr/xbox

If you want a permanent fix with out a crazy long cable, get this;

NETGEAR PowerLINE 1000 Mbps, 1 Gigabit Port - Essentials Edition (PL1010-100PAS)

If you want to know what's wrong, it's probably servers and their bandwidth. It's probably getting bogged down from all the people on that server downloading.

That, or your Xbox could be downloading chunks of information and got behind in writing it to the hard drive. So your Xbox might be installing portions, then downloading.

Could also be your WiFi router putting your Xbox at the end of the priority list, or limiting it because of ports. There's a few ways to fix it, but I wouldn't recommend this step as it can be tedious and time consuming fixing it. Especially if you don't know what you're doing.

u/AedandoRL · 2 pointsr/RocketLeague

If you purchased a PowerLine adapter a long time ago, you probably had a PowerLine adapter with the original HomePlug AV1 specification. In short, AV1 sucked hard, and gave PowerLine adapters a bad rap.

The new PowerLine adapters with the HomePlug AV2 specification are more than capable of providing stability to online games. I use a set of 1000Mbps NETGEAR adapters, and I do not have this issue in any other game, just Rocket League, which leads me to believe that the game sends information too frequently at higher framerates. I don't have any packet loss issues when capped at 60FPS, but because I have a 144Hz monitor it looks very choppy without at least 144FPS.

As for your solution, that's what I used to do when I had a larger bedroom closer to our networking gear. Now I do not; because I've been going to higher ed for the past few years, my sister has taken over my old room, which makes perfect sense since I'm not there most of the year. My new room is too far to pass an Ethernet cable to (and too small for a desktop), so I situate my desktop in our living room and use a PowerLine adapter.

Thank you for the suggestion though! I appreciate the politeness, your English is great for someone who isn't a native speaker.

u/kevin82485 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

There's not a noticeable difference between 3200 and 3000. There is a 16 GB kit of 3000 MHz Vulcan memory on sale right now for $100 and a 16 GB kit of 3200 MHz G Skill memory for $115. Upon further thought, if you're just mainly building this to game, then I wouldn't be concerned about memory speed.

Also you mentioned getting a motherboard with WiFi. While it is very convenient to have, might I suggest getting a powerline adapter if it is not possible to pull a Cat 5e or Cat 6 cable through your house and walls? Something like this one would greatly improve download speeds: I use one for my home NAS box that I have stuffed into the corner of my great. Not something you have to get now obviously, but something to keep in mind if you're not happy with your wireless speeds.

u/ulmanms · 2 pointsr/Ubiquiti

If you're cheap and not bothered by the aesthetics you can also use something like this:

u/BK1127 · 2 pointsr/DirecTV

No need to put any holes in your walls. Try out a Powerline Ethernet kit.

u/JKR_27 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I use this with amazing results! (usually 10-20 MB speeds)
My wifi router is 3 floors away and on the other end of the house.

u/itr6 · 2 pointsr/homelab

This seems popular. I've never used powerline adapters. I have a nice attic and very understanding wife (no offense or disrespect to yours) so I get away with a lot of stuff other labbers cant.

u/three18ti · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Plug one into the wall on the 3rd floor. Plug one into the wall on the 1st floor.

Works well with the device from this comment

u/TheBananaPhony · 2 pointsr/xbmc

If you have the inclination and want to do something a bit clever, you could use your old router as a wireless bridge. The basic idea would be to keep your new router as it is, set up the old router as an access point tied to the new one. Once it works, you can plug your Xbox into the old router and it will essentially function as a wireless card.

With my old modded Xbox, I just bought some powerline ethernet adapters to make it wired. Depending on the outlets in your house, you can get decent enough speeds.

u/clearing_sky · 2 pointsr/hardware
u/TimeTravellerSmith · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I've used a set of these and they work brilliantly in a situation just like yours (second story, router in the basement).

u/mhk2192 · 2 pointsr/PS4

Try a Powerline adapter. You connect your router to an adapter and plug another adapter in your room and the internet runs through your power line.

u/toplesstom13 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Understandable. Another option could be a cheap Ethernet over Powerline adapter if your garage is on the same panel as you house.

u/CactusWillieBeans · 2 pointsr/malelivingspace

Flat Ethernet cable, or you could get a power over Ethernet kit, like this one.

In case you aren't familiar with the product or concept, it's pretty much self-describing. It runs Ethernet through your electrical system.

u/transam617 · 2 pointsr/CabaloftheBuildsmiths

With that H97 motherboard, the 4790K would be locked so you would be paying extra for an unlocked processor you cant overclock. What CPU do you have now?

I think You want the 1231 Xeon which is a much cheaper i7 but locked.

Lastly, have you heard of powerline adapters? They use your electical outlets to go from your router to your computer without wireless. I ask because you had a $30 wireless adapter in there and thats about what powerline kits cost.

u/Meatballwarrior · 2 pointsr/buildapcforme

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor | $197.88 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | MSI - B350 TOMAHAWK ATX AM4 Motherboard | $81.98 @ Newegg
Memory | G.Skill - Trident Z 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $134.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Western Digital - Blue 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $149.87 @ OutletPC
Storage | Seagate - Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $59.99 @ Best Buy
Video Card | EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Superclocked Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card | $549.99 @ SuperBiiz
Case | Fractal Design - Focus G (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case | $59.99 @ NCIX US
Power Supply | EVGA - SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $89.99 @ NCIX US
Operating System | Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $92.99 @ B&H
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $1417.67
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-08-15 02:29 EDT-0400 |

Same build but 1080ti

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor | $197.88 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | MSI - B350 TOMAHAWK ATX AM4 Motherboard | $81.98 @ Newegg
Memory | G.Skill - Trident Z 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $134.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Western Digital - Blue 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $149.87 @ OutletPC
Storage | Seagate - Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $59.99 @ Best Buy
Video Card | Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB Gaming OC 11G Video Card | $724.98 @ Newegg
Case | Fractal Design - Focus G (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case | $59.99 @ NCIX US
Power Supply | EVGA - SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $89.99 @ NCIX US
Operating System | Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $92.99 @ B&H
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $1592.66
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-08-15 02:30 EDT-0400 |

Edit if you need a Wifi adapter this one will be good. Wifi is not recommend for online gaming thought. I would go with a powerline adapter if you have a free ethernet port on your router. I have some of these connecting the devices in my house and they work great.

u/boosteddsm · 2 pointsr/pihole

Shouldn't be a problem, this also allows you to put a ups on the switch and not have to worry about any poe powered devices going down. Also allows you to power cycle a device just by disabling/enabling the port it's on. I use these all over the place, much cheaper than the hats.

u/CuvisTheConqueror · 2 pointsr/cordcutters

Wrong thing. That's a Power over Ethernet injector, which is for powering devices through the Ethernet port. He's going to need a PowerLine adapter, which is for running network signals over power cables. In other words, one of these.

u/hispanglotexan · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

You should consider Power over Ethernet instead. It lets you create a LAN connection through the electricity in your house by plugging one adapter into your router and the other into your computer. This is the one I'm using and I'll never look back.

EDIT: formatting

u/mhender · 2 pointsr/DIY

I know this wouldn't answer your direct question, but if you face any issues with concrete or studs, you can use the Powerline ethernet adapters.

Many companies make 'em -- I hate seeing cable running through my place. It was a perfect solution, and I just didn't want to try and run cable underneath my stairs, even if it is a very simple DIY.

u/cuibksrub3 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Look up powerline adapters. Something like this, they are inbetween wired and wireless.

It uses the copper cabling in your house and turns into essentially into an ethernet cable. Plug one plug next to your computer and plug in, plug the other one next to the router and plug it into the router. If that makes sense lol....

u/synapseattack · 2 pointsr/kodi

Have you considered MOCA adapters? I only ask because when I mention them most people don't know what I'm talking about. I swear by them and I have been running them for the past 4 years.

I have the Actiontec. I just upgraded to the first link. However now that I've seen the price of the Yitong (third link) and see if there is a drastic difference. I still need one more....

Actiontec MOCA 2.0 (650+Mbps)

Actiontec MOCA 1.1 (270 Mbps)


u/iamyashsoni · 2 pointsr/PS4

Yes, but go for Netgear, I have personally had a better experience with Netgear than TP Link or Linksys....

NETGEAR PowerLINE 1000 Mbps, 1 Gigabit Port - Essentials Edition (PL1010-100PAS)

u/CbcITGuy · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

When you're talking about MoCa devices would something like this work for injecting Ethernet into the coax cable and then getting it on the other end?

u/i_dont_know · 2 pointsr/techsupport

I don't know why more people haven't heard of these, but I've had great success with moca adapters (power over coax). They offer faster speeds, better reliability, and easier setup than Ethernet over powerline adapters.

u/KantLockeMeIn · 2 pointsr/networking

If you have unused coax jacks in each room, MoCA is far superior to powerline.

u/JustinRN · 2 pointsr/xboxone

You might also want to look into MoCA adapters. I use a MoCA adapter and get speeds that are practically the exact same as if I was hardwired into my modem with Ethernet. I think MoCA adapters are more stable and get better speeds (through my personal testing). I have been using this set without a single issue for about a year.

u/RealLifeNoRespawn · 2 pointsr/Showerthoughts

Have you tried a powerline adapter? I've been using them for the past three years and they're a godsend.

u/RichardCranium12 · 2 pointsr/PS4

Triple your speed. TP-LINK TL-PA4010KIT AV500 Nano Powerline Adapter Starter Kit, up to 500Mbps

u/ItsNumi · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I use This and I absolutely love it. I pretty much increased my speeds by 3-4x. Granted I was pretty far from the router and getting bad speeds, bumped it up to the same wired speeds I get. Cant guarantee similar results, but I'll never game or download without it.

u/bhramabull · 2 pointsr/IPTV

Yea true again. I'm going to give the NetGear Powerline stuff a try.
Seems like a good way to wire stuff scattered around the house!

u/nony21 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

You could always get a powerline adapter like this one: TP-Link AV1000 Powerline Ethernet Adapter - Gigabit Port, Plug&Play, Power Saving(TL-PA7010 KIT)

I still get normal Ethernet speeds without the hassle of super long cords everywhere 😁

u/Chadman108 · 1 pointr/buildapc

I've had great luck with power line adapters in my house. I never had problems with my wifi but I always want more speed for streaming and file transfers within the network. I have a computer in the basement for backups and file serving (movies, music etc) and a few computers throughout the house (HTPC, Laptop, Gaming rig) that are all connected to the network by powerline adapters.

I have 6 TP link AV500 units throughout the house.

You start with the starter kit for $40

This is enough to start the network and get 2 devices hooked up to a wired connection (2 in addition to your router/modem)

Each additional connection you require you'll need to get another powerline adapter (1 or 2 port). I actually plugged in a single port one behind my home theater and ran a patch cable to an 8 port gigabit switch (I had lying around). The switch then goes to my TV, Cable box, Modem (source of the network and wireless throughout the house), Xbox One, Xbox 360, HTPC, and my AV Receiver.

I know this might not be what you're looking for but I've had great luck and absolutely no issues with my network. It was also a heck of a lot cheaper than running wires throughout the house or running a long Ethernet cable to my computer.

u/rozorb · 1 pointr/buildapcsales
u/Tachimochi · 1 pointr/cordcutters
u/TheophilusTheGreat · 1 pointr/buildapc

Does anyone here have experience with powerline adapters? Is it worth spending the extra money to get an expensive one or do the cheaper ones work just as well?

u/BonkersinYonkers · 1 pointr/Tivo

I moved my TiVo network over to powerline

Use one for each TiVo device and one by your router.

u/shift1186 · 1 pointr/techsupport

I didnt want to splurge on the mesh wifi yet either. I ended up going with a Ethernet over Powerline solution.

This thing is able to handle about 350-400MBits/sec in my experience. This is going between circuits too. Now, i did get a cheapo pair of no-name ones from newegg ($18 i think) to test as a proof of concept. They worked, but only pulled 20MBits.

I have 2 AT&T wireless TV boxes running through this as well as my R7000 Wifi Router (in AP mode) to provide normal wifi.

u/Thompsond209 · 1 pointr/buildapc

I use this for a wired connection across the house. Really easy to setup.
TP-LINK AV500 2-port Powerline Starter Kit, Up to 500Mbps (TL-PA4026 KIT)

u/OMGitsDSypl · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

(Sorry for asking the same questions as yesterday, but I need an answer)

1- This is my setup for ethernet right now and it's not the cleanest and it's damaging the crap out of the cable. I was thinking about getting a powerline adaptor so I could have cleaner cables without making too much of a mess. Does anyone have any recommendations or should I stick with awkward ass cables for the sake of specs? I game online extremely frequently and I need a stable connection for most of them, plus I intend to stream (Twitch/Picarto) in the future. Currently I'm getting 90-105Mb/s down and 20-25Mb/s up though direct connection to the router.

I found three candidates, lemme know if there's a better one: First, Second, Third.

2- How could I get the cleanest possible cable mangement with a UPS like this? Is there a way to conceal this or make it look appealing?

u/AdventurousBreak · 1 pointr/xboxone

>Does anyone have any recommendations as to powerline adapters they use?


As long as you buy a reputable brand, you'll be fine. Powerline is not rocket science, and most of them do the same thing and a good job to boot. Usually the price difference comes from added gimmicks such as two ethernet ports which was important for me (PS4+Xbox) or built in wi-fi extension. I use a TP Link and I would recommend the brand.



I think I have those: . They have only lost connected 2-3 times in a few years and I get my full speed through the powerline. I pay for 100 Mbps and all of it comes through.

u/fistful_of_ideals · 1 pointr/techsupport

The "right" way to do it would be to run some CAT6 and throw some jacks in. It's also difficult, and requires a little construction. I wouldn't bother unless you're hooking up multiple devices.

For relatively inexpensive solution for one device, it could be easily accomplished with these badboys, as long as your home's electrical is decent. You also need to purchase a pair of ethernet cables to go with it, and you'd need an open port on the switch.

u/tadag · 1 pointr/xboxone

I want to say 400 and I picked these up on sale for ~40. Something that I got lucky with if you go this route, try to see pictures of how it covers the outlets. The model I linked lets me plug it into the bottom outlet and still have room to plug in a non ground plug (like the One S cord) in the top outlet.

u/jdorje · 1 pointr/buildapc

You can't plug the adapter into the surge protector, but you can plug the surge protector into the adapter.

It looks like that adapter you have doesn't have a passthrough though? I've got two kits of these.

u/nattylife · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

yea, the house isnt wired for ethernet and we think the coax is on a different "network" since it cant see the DVR from that area of the house. this is the current powerline we've been using for now. if the coax is hooked together i will go with the MOCA.

u/grizzlywhere · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Was the Steam Link wireless or the controller? If the Link, then I highly recommend this baby. It let's you wire up from anywhere in the house near to a power socket. It is kind of a steep price tag, but it is totally worth it.

u/SarcasticOptimist · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

I got the TP Link AV1200 for my parent's home. Pass through, gigabit speeds without issues. Used will fit your budget. New is only 64.

u/cobalt_mcg · 1 pointr/GameDeals

The other reply was spot on.

These are the adapters I have. I have a router connected to my modem, then wired to adapter 1. I used a gigabit splitter connected to adapter 2 so I could wire my computer and an old non-gigabit router.

u/key_lime_pie · 1 pointr/nfl

Get a set of PowerLine adapters. They use your house's existing electrical system to create a wired connection. All of the machines in our house are connected over PowerLine and the connection screams.

u/Why_Is_This_NSFW · 1 pointr/techsupport

+1 for powerline, they work pretty well. I got a pair of these a while back and it works fine for wifi. Personally I don't get anywhere near gigabit, more in the 80Mb range, but you hook one up to your router then another to an access point where you need it and set it up with the same wifi info so it roams between them and you're good. If you hook it up to an old router functioning as an AP you'll also have (typically) 3 extra ethernet ports you can plug into on the AP also (4 LAN ports, minus one for the connection from AP to powerline adapter). Google "router as access point" or something.

u/captaingnome · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

The powerline adapter may be the easiest and cheapest way to test. And if they don't work, just return them. I've used the powerline adapters plenty of times for gaming, but I havent tried 4k over them. Plus everything you are doing is local. The PC upstairs is doing all the work.

u/MPZahn · 1 pointr/buildapc

you're going to get terrible speeds with that adapter.

I recently upgraded to TP-Link AV 1200 Kit and i'm maxing out my 60Mbps bandwidth from my ISP.

u/chucklesvr · 1 pointr/RecRoom

Yup, can confirm, wifi (even 5gz) is flaky. Using powerline adapters (I've got the TP-Link AV1200) give much better reliability than a straight-line < 25 foot 5ghz wifi connection to a normally-robust router.

If you have bad lag, though, try hopping into a different game. It doesn't seem like you're necessarily pinned to a nearby colo-- proximity and lag seem to be random luck.

u/thecrimsonthreat · 1 pointr/gaming

Hey so sorry I never replied but I finally got it up and running.

Speedtest by Ookla:

Ping: 17 (ms)

Download: 45.36 (Mbps)

Upload: 11.06 (Mbps)


Done using these:


Overall I'm really satisfied with them.

u/Gr3yGhost · 1 pointr/PS4

Just get powerline adapters and you're good to go.

Here's one I recommend, as I have it.

Although they make plenty of other that have multiple ethernet ports if you want more than one wired device in a specific room.

I always recommend one with an outlet pass-through so you don't lose an outlet because of these adapters

u/tj-tyler · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

I have used "passive PoE splitters" like these along with a buck regulator similar to this to implement my own DIY PoE solution for remotely powering RPIs. This will only work with "Alternative B" PoE (see "Mode B" and/or "Mode A").

Alternatively, you could use something like this which is basically the above solution in a single device (and didn't exist when I built my system).

All the above product links are super cheap-o Chinesium units; you've been warned :-/

u/myself248 · 1 pointr/RTLSDR

Mine was sold with an antenna, but there's other inmarsat traffic to poke at after Outernet moves. :)

I like the $49 price point, that's sort of a psychological magic spot. Under $50 for a board that's similar to any of the $30-40-ish embedded boards plus a $20 rtlsdr plus a $5 USB hub all built in? Yeah, that's pretty sweet. Somebody's gonna pair that sucker with a PoE splitter and put it tower-top.

Okay, so here's my logic: Let's assume a single SKU doesn't make sense long-term. You want to get the cost down on the 256MB, Outernet-specific version. So make that one. What's the most sensible configuration for the other(s)? Can just one additional SKU bring broader appeal?

I feel like making the 512MB version with 1090-specific RF parts might be the best route for general-purpose functionality. It still has the bypass path for "everyone else", the ADS-B market seems pretty active, and it would seem to minimize module count and soldering for the largest number of users. I never even looked to see if the bypass path also has bias-tee functionality, but that would be good.

And for those of us who want to build our own filters right into the thing, since we're comfortable with soldering already by definition, we can always scrape off the 1090 parts and reuse the pads. :)

The only folks left out in the cold by that split would be those who want to do L-band stuff but need the big RAM. Which is definitely a few people -- but I think most of 'em already have a Dreamcatcher, probably? Or just do another run of those and set 'em up as a while-supplies-last third SKU. Which may have been what just happened with the clearance sale. They had their chance!

Could (all) the alternate version(s) be offloaded to or someone? So the only one you'd be on the hook for supporting would be the "official" Skylark-specific board, and everything else is for experimenters, here's a schematic, here's the radionerds page, figure the rest out.

u/SlainByWoodborne · 1 pointr/homelab

Yeah. Their racks are pricey for what they are and I dislike their functionality where it looks like the USB and Ethernet ports of the RPi are internal (based on the switch in this diagram) to the chassis.

I agree the PoE hats make it nice and clean in terms of cable management but this type of splitter is a wonderful, cheaper replacement that doesn't block the GPIO pins.

u/_maph_ · 1 pointr/Ubiquiti

Just to clarify, you're powering it over PoE? I'm new to forgive me. Are you using "The Hat" or something like this. The latter seems like a better, cheaper & easier solution to me.

Using any particular distro? Or just plain old Raspbian? And how are you viewing that on the RPi? Just browser session in full screen? RTSP via VLC or some equivalent?

Our office is offsite from this location (accessible over our private WAN though), so would like some ability remote in and troubleshoot if the feed is down or not displaying properly. I'm assuming VNC would be OK for that unless there's a more elegant solution.

u/SeveredBox53 · 1 pointr/gaming

In my experience yes. I had a TP Link wifi adapter plug (basically sends Ethernet through outlets... Don't ask me how I don't know) connect one of those to the router and another one to the computer and you can get Ethernet. Well this worked for a while but eventually the internet just crashed. Replaced the TP Link with a router and the Ethernet works just fine again.

Note the TP Link was a few years old at this point so it is also a viable option. A lot better than rewiring your house anyways.

Edit: TP-Link AV1200 Powerline Adapter, Gigabit w/Power Outlet Pass-through, Powerline speeds Up to 1200Mbps (TL-PA8010P KIT)

Similar to the ones I had just newer. Would still research for best product though.

u/rpmartinez · 1 pointr/HomeKit

Hey, I just the hub and it’s perfectly working. Thanks for making this product.

PS. I was able to buy a POE adapter for it.
PI POE Adapter

u/ericlathrop · 1 pointr/linux_gaming

Great idea! These ones look pretty awesome.

u/zoahporre · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

this will solve your issue

Plug one in near your router and plug the other one near your switch. Get one of those USB Ethernet adapters too.

u/StressingSinceDay1 · 1 pointr/bapcsalescanada

I got the

I'll see how this works out :) thanks!

u/onesole · 1 pointr/homeassistant

Still need hat, I missed that. Would need to buy one:

You can use either official hat, which is ugly, and has fan which I do not like:

Or this hat:

Or even this:

After thinking about this, I think I will just go with POE USB splitter, and forget about POE capability of Raspberry:

u/TheMatster1 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

This is the one that I use. If it doesn’t work for you then from what I’ve experienced Amazon has a good return system.

u/swrdfish · 1 pointr/Ubiquiti

Have you thought about using a Poweline adapter to get the Ethernet to the APs on different floors?

I just did this at a client who lives in a three story condo that is seperated by concerete floors.

We put in TP Link Powerline Adapters to pass the internet signal to two APs around the condo, and it works great.

I used three of these
( starter kit and an extra one )

and 2 AP-AC-LRs

u/farptr · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

Get a 802.3af PoE splitter. It is cheaper than the PoE HAT and is rated for 5V at 2.4A.

u/HankBlardo · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

The default config does not have POE available, but it can be added with the following: . Alternatively I may go with something like this:

u/HyperspaceCatnip · 1 pointr/homedefense

Sorry for the late reply, but I thought it might still be helpful.

Something like these for instance.

Basically, it's a wallwart that plugs in, an ethernet port and (optionally) has a passthrough AC output. On the wall/house wiring side it accepts AC but also spits out an RF signal carrying the ethernet data, where another unit of the same model can decode it again, so you can send ethernet data over your existing wiring.

As the signal is going over wiring, it's less susceptible to radio noise and way more reliable than things like wifi.

u/majoroutage · 1 pointr/buildapc

It sounds like you would be better off adding another AP instead of just replacing the router. I picked up one of these during Black Friday sales to boost the wifi signal in our living room. It's working good so far.

u/Maderero · 1 pointr/EtherMining

This is anecdotal, but still relevant:

I tried used these TPLink Powerline Adapters for my mining rig, and while they initially worked wonders, over time (~6 weeks) they started to lose their luster. I followed setup instructions exactly as they were laid out, and still struggled to keep them from disconnecting over and over.

My setup:
(2nd floor) Router -> (2nd Floor Outlet) Powerline Adapter -> (Basement Outlet) Powerline Adapter -> (Basement) Mining Rig

If anyone wants to weigh in here on powerline adapters, feel free.

u/sulacet · 1 pointr/Games

I live in a smallish apartment. My wifi card in my PC doesn't pick up my router on the other side and upstairs in my apartment. I bought one of [these.] ( I haven't really used the repeater functionality on it, but I have actually considered setting it up so I can stream games to a laptop a little easier. I get what you're saying though. If I had more than one phone jack in my apartment I'd use an access point.

u/PickleSlice · 1 pointr/FortNiteBR

Are those of you who are having issues on wireless?

I'm hardwired and I have zero lag issues.

I networked my house and my PS4 has a gigabit connection to my router.

My duo buddy was having lag issues, so I recommended him to try something and it fixed his issues. It's called a powerline adapter, and it uses your wall power plugs for the internet. I know they sound like wizardry, but they work. I used them for quite a while before I networked my house.

Something like this might solve your issues -

u/JN02882 · 1 pointr/Windows10

I'm guessing this one?

u/hqrfns14 · 1 pointr/nfl

Gotcha. This is the one I got:

Super easy to set up and haven't had any problems with it.

u/Grimm665 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

The last building I was in was built 8 years ago, brand new wiring. Powerline adapters worked great for years, I had 4 of them connected for the router and three desktop machines. Not sure what else to tell you.

EDIT: Here are the ones I use:

Are 471 reviews with a 4-star average lying to you? I think not.

u/IAmSooAwesome- · 1 pointr/techsupport

i also found this one which says to have 1k Mbps only for 40$ is this one better than the one before. How come the price difference is so high?

u/Ballinagh · 1 pointr/PS4 you mean something like this:

That would work?
If so, is there a specific make, model and type that would be best?
BTW, live in Toronto Canada.
Thanks very much for this.

u/payeco · 1 pointr/Ubiquiti

Is the power in the garage on the same circuit breaker as the rest of the house? One option would be PowerLine networking equipment which uses your electrical wiring. TP-Link makes some nice ones for cheap. My dad was in the same boat as you in his garage. I used a powerline adapter from TP-Link to connect an UAP-AC-M out there. The link speed is actually really good.

u/ODSTStrongBad · 1 pointr/Vue

Roku > Ethernet Switch (A small Linksys one) > TP Link Powerline Adaptor plugged into wall outlet. Then, in the room I have my modem/router, I have the other powerline adaptor going to my router.

I know there are better options, but here's the equipment I'm using:

Linksys 8-Port Metallic Gigabit Switch (SE3008)

TP-Link AV1000 Powerline Ethernet Adapter - Gigabit Port, Plug&Play, Power Saving(TL-PA7010 KIT)

u/Theboardrider · 1 pointr/PleX

I've had similar issues, and a huge difference was made from purchasing a set of TP-Link TL-PA6010 Powerline adapters. See the link below...

I don't read of these or similar as a solution very often, and I don't understand. My speed got a small boost, nothing huge....but the difference is the latency.

u/wideruled · 1 pointr/nfl

You should look at getting some of these:

Plug one in near your router and plug it into an empty port on the router. From there plug the other one in near your PS4 and plug the ethernet into your PS4. Boom gigabit to your pS4.

FYI: i had older 300mbit models and they worked just fine for downloading

u/hiroo916 · 1 pointr/applehelp

You get points for MacGyver-ing together working solutions, but are you here are some better and "more proper" ways of doing it:

  1. Best case, if you can run in a single Ethernet cable from your bedroom out the living room, then get another wireless router and place that into the living room. Connect the two routers together lan (not wan) port to lan port. On the second router in the living room, going to the menus and turn off DHCP so that IP addresses will only be issued by the router in the bedroom. Boom you're done and everything will run fast and smooth.

  2. if you can't run the ethernet cable, you can also replace the ethernet cable with power line networking boxes to use your electrical wiring to create virtual ethernet cable to connect the two routers as described in number one. This will cost a bit more then the cable and its performance depends on the type of wiring and stuff in your house, but you can work really well.

  3. you can also get power line networking devices that have wireless or additional wired ethernet ports on the receiver box. For example, this one has a receiver box with four ethernet outputs that could accommodate your equipment in the living room without an additional router needed.

  4. if you still want to go the wireless route, you can get a wireless bridge unit that will connect to the wireless signal coming from your main router and then distribute that to the additional wired devices in your living room.
u/Brisk_Is_Back · 1 pointr/hcteams

I had previously been using a Netgear WNDA4100 but was having issues with packet loss and overall spotty connectivity. After looking into alternatives I bought the a TP-Link powerline adapter which I have been using for nearly a year, and I only have good things to say about it. This is the model I purchased but their are higher and lower tier models as well.

u/Shadow_Prime · 1 pointr/buildapc

What was the speed of the powerline adapters? You want to use 500mbps or higher.

The lower speed ones may be older models based on an older version of the "HomePlug AV" standard. You need to make sure you are using one with a newer version of the standard as it will have better error correction and if the line is worse, you will still see better speeds. A crappy line with the 500mbps adapter may still get 100mbps. But if you are starting with a 200mbps adapter, you are going to get much lower.

You will want to use something like: or

The Zyxel is most likely the better option.

u/bstegemiller · 1 pointr/technology

It's doesn't necessarily have anything to do with the distance you are from the router, it has more to do with the throughput of the router. Game streaming requires higher end routers (like the AC models that you mentioned). While they're still fairly high in price, they are dropping slowly as they become more of the norm. You'll have a lot better success with streaming wired though if you chose not to purchase a new router.

If you are streaming to a laptop, upgrading that router would be my priority. That will ensure that you get the least amount of network lag. If you are like me and just streaming to another box in your house (I built a cheap $200 machine that I have connected to my TV), then you should look at these. What these do allow you to run ethernet, through your entire house, using power outlets. This would give you the ability to run ethernet, over to a box that you may have running with wireless connectivity.

Just a suggestion.

u/friedstinkytofu · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Is that product in the link you showed me the same as the one in this amazon one? They look different so I'm not sure.

u/13220 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

For powerline, this one is good ($39.99)

If you have to get a wifi adapter then this one is probably the most worth it

u/Barracuda420 · 1 pointr/Steam

you can, or you can do what I did and buy a powerline adaptor that plugs in near my router and then is plugged into the room with my link is located. Run the Ethernet cable that way to avoid the extra work of either hiding the wire or having it just sitting out along the floor. This is the one I bought from TP Link though it was on sale for around $30 when I bought.

u/chrisp1992 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Sure, I get your point. I wasn't expecting the advertised rates. I did a lot of research, and maybe the reason mine perform so well is that they're relatively close together, even though they were on different floors? I have the TP-Link AV600, which is actually last generation I think.

When I had 300mbps service I was in a different house, router and modem were on first floor, and I was on second floor, that's where I was able to get the 250mbps if my roommate wasn't on his computer as well. I was just as surprised as you when I got those speeds, as I had figured I might tap out around 80mbps.

In my current house, I've only got 100mbps service, as I couldn't justify spending the extra money for 300mbps. So I can't recreate those previous results now. What I can say though is that those same adapters are getting me ~115mbps when no one else is on the network. That's through Steam downloads, and I'm on the same floor as the router now, but not much closer. I can take screenshots when I get home if you want more definitive proof than my word.

I haven't noticed any problems when other electronics are on in the house. Ping rates like to spike at certain moments, but it was the same way for when I was connected up via ethernet directly to the router, so not sure where that's coming from, although I think it might be our chromecast causing it. I have two roommates, and we all play Rocket League together on our own computers each hooked up to their own AV600, and we've had no problems playing together online with that, our ping rates are usually around 30-60.

This was one of the reviews of powerline adapters that I remember looking at when I was researching. Looking at it now, I would think that their results are a bit higher than average, but overall it's still relatively accurate.

u/james_shepherd · 1 pointr/buildapc

This method isn't fully wireless, however you may want to consider using a TP Link Powerline kit that may avoid using too many cables and ,from what I can see, would provide a reliable connection.

TP Powerline Kit:


^May not be exact same but similar.

Sorry if this was vague but it was my first time giving advice ;).

u/Rzarectah508 · 1 pointr/techsupport

Try an Ethernet powerline adapter. I’ve been using a pair for a couple years now. Works great

u/KevOK80 · 1 pointr/buildapc

THIS! I recently did this in my home due to needing to move my router and wifi to another part of the house. It's getting me the same speeds as if I was plugged in directly to the modem. Make sure to get a gigabit adapter set. Here the TP Link one I used. It is also very small and does not interfere with the other power outlet where it's plugged in to. Make sure you don't plug them into a surge protected outlet or the performance can suffer. Best $80 I've spent on my network.

u/Loghery · 1 pointr/Stadia

There is a lot of options to allow for wiring. Take a look at Power Line Adapters that do 1gbps on amazon. I install internet & IPTV for a living and this saves me having to run cat5 across a finished basement for folks with wifi issues.

u/westbury2017 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Try the adapters that use your electrical wires in your house as a Ethernet cable. Put one at your modem and then one where you want your new wifi. Or connect the Ethernet to whatever you need. Just plug it into any outlet on the wall

Edit: NETGEAR Powerline 1200 + Extra Outlet (PLP1200)

u/senormano · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

> i've put up repeaters off of the network, that can then give the MicroCell ... the signal it needs.

What specific devices are you using to do this?

> I'm thinking of taking out the Routers being used as repeaters and running via POE

The references to "routers" and "repeaters" is throwing me here. What devices and settings are your referring to?

My understanding of the AT&T Microcell products is that they require an Ethernet input and emulate a cellular tower to effectively give you VoIP through your mobile phone.

The questions suggest that you don't have Ethernet (cat5/6) cabling going to the rooms were you want to place the Microcells. You have three basic options:

  1. Run network cabling to reach those Microcells.

  2. Use wireless-ethernet bridge that joins your WiFi network to provide connectivity to the Microcell (like [this] ( ).

  3. Use a powerline-ethernet system (like [this] ( ).

    Note that the above are examples, not necessarily recommendations on specific products.
u/HeadlessTwitch · 1 pointr/dragonballfighterz

If you don't want to run a wire all the way from your modem to your ps4 you can also get a power line adapter. Your connection will depend on how your house is wired but it'll be a lot better than wifi.

If your modem is not that far and you don't mind running a wire then getting an long ethernet cable is the cheaper solution.

u/Not_dr_phil · 1 pointr/Ice_Poseidon

I recommend this one

I have the same one, and ive never had a more stable connection

u/EzGameBoys · 1 pointr/FortniteCompetitive

Also want to add that I do have a pretty good PC (8700k + 1070ti) and pretty good internet (1gbps) But am using a ethernet adapter. (For those who do not know what it is )

u/poopmagic · 1 pointr/StarWarsBattlefront

The PS4 has notoriously bad WiFi, especially if you have one of the originals (not a Slim or Pro). The 2.4 GHz band in particular is terrible for gaming because of inconsistent latency. If you can’t run an Ethernet cable, I’d suggest something like a powerline or MoCA adapter.

I have a PS4 Pro and I was getting constant lag, “Error 201,” etc. even though my console was about 15 feet from my wireless router with maximum signal on my 5 GHz network. Running some Ethernet cable fixed almost everything. I still get the occasional bit of lag, but it’s pretty rare and I haven’t gotten dropped from a match in over a year.

I’m not trying to put 100% of the blame on your connection, by the way. BF2 just seems very sensitive to latency spikes compared to other games.

u/aquastorm · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Which power line adapter do you have?

I have the Netgear Powerline 1200 and Extra Outlet (PLP1200-100PAS)

u/SuperGiraffe · 1 pointr/bapcsalescanada

Not strictly PC related, but I had a question about Powerline Adapters. My PC is in my room, about 50ft from the router in the living room, and I was wondering what kind of realistic speeds I'd get with this (Amazon link). Now obviously I wouldn't get 1200 mbps DL for internet, but would it be a worthy investment if I purchased this instead of opting for wifi adapter for my desktop? (unfortunately cat6 is out of the question since the landlord doesn't want cables lying around or nailed against the wall).

u/Kestre333 · 1 pointr/Vive

If you can, consider internet over power line:

That will avoid the wifi interruptions due to the Vive hardware.

u/thetrapjesus · 1 pointr/buildapc

Is there any functional difference between these two powerline adapters?


u/rinikulous · 1 pointr/PS4

Try this powerline adapter. Works great, not as good as true Ethernet cable, but better than Wi-Fi assuming your outlets are in the same circuit (most homes are, apts vary).

u/Protonion · 1 pointr/buildapc

Huh? That's just a WiFi network extender, takes the WiFi signal and creates it's own stronger network to extend that. Did you mean powerline ethernet adapters, like this? With those you are right, they practically never reach gigabit ethernet speeds, but 500 Mbits/s is entirely realistic. They do that by sending very high frequency signals (high enough that they don't bother other devices that are plugged in) via your existing power wires, and then decode those at the other end.

u/kuppajava · 1 pointr/Steam_Link

This should be more than enough so if it is too expensive, go down one level to the 1000 model instead of the 1200. From what I have read the numbers they are using are "lab numbers" but you will get something close to wired without having to run lines and drill holes, beware however that this will depend on your power wiring and also distance can affect it. My brother has a pair of the 1000 units (they usually come in pairs) and for him this works as good as ethernet for his use. I live in an apartment so I just ran a 50ft Cat5e line to the Steamlink instead, but I would get this if I had it all to do over again instead of drilling the walls.

u/benrazer220 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Just to confirm, the room is not outside the house from the drawing, correct? I would personally use a Wifi-Extender and see if that works. How big is your house in sq ft to your room? (meaning how much square feet does it take from your router/modem to your room)

What type of router/modem do you use? I use a Wifi Extender in my house as well. I currently use a Netgear one which is this that goes up to 1000ft but you can get less or more depending on price. (Amazon has this exact model for 600 sq.ft currently on sale) I do recommend hardwiring if you can but if not these extenders work great. I would determine how weak the signal is at the very weakest spot and measure the square footage on how far you want the signal to go. This way, you can keep extending the signal. I have Netgear Wifi Extenders in my 4500 sq space and it really works well to extend the signal and to get fast speeds.

If you are interested in easy hardwiring and not Wifi, I attached this short text below. I hope this helps!

In my bedroom, I use a NETGEAR Powerline Adapter 1200 MBPS. This can be on the pricy end at $75.00 currently on Amazon. Personally, I prefer the Adapter more in my opinion because you can hardwire a switch to it to have multiple devices rather than running a jack or many cables. You can never go wrong though with a direct modem/router connection for devices.

u/mke5271 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Have you looked into powerline adapters? It transmits your network through your power so you don't need to run a wire, or get another router.

Plug one in downstairs next to the router, plug one in by you. Should help your speed.

u/Broadsid3 · 1 pointr/PleX

Ill tell you what, I had This netgear Version and they were as good as useless. I had them between the router and the esxi host and storage box that I have and doing anything from the router side of the pair was painfully slow. As soon as I replaced them with a cat 5e cable my speeds went from about 2MB/s all the way up to 15-18MB/s on average just on downloads alone see here

My upload is terrible but thats Comcast's fault. I had them in the same room on the same breaker and they would constantly report bad connection even though they were one outlet away from one another - which was infuriating having plex stutter to start playing and just dont even try to skip ahead 30 seconds (wired LGTV Plex app)

I would say only use ethernet adapters unless its 100% necessary, otherwise figure out how to run a cable through the wall, along the baseboard or down through your basement because it is certainly worth it.

u/2PieceCombo · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

For almost a year I was stuck using powine adapters. I was fortunate enough to maintain a mostly consistent connection. I did a lot of "testing" to try squeeze every last megabit out of the things, and here's everything you can do to get the most out of them.

  1. Never use a powerline adapter on a power strip. This is almost always on the included instruction page, but it's worth saying. Power strips block out 'noise', which in this case is your data. Most of the time you won't even be able get them to link up, so just don't do it.

  2. The signal between the adapters is easily effected by interference going through your wiring circuits, so it's best to move them into different wall outlets to find the combination that produces the most reliable connection.

  3. Tieing into 1 and 2, whichever outlets you end up using, be sure to not plug anything into the second outlet slot. I'd even suggest putting one of those child safety outlet blocks in the unused one, just to prevent others from using it

  4. The newer your house, the better results you will likely have. Old houses have shitty wiring, for the most part. If you live in a really old place and the wiring has not been updated, chances are you won't get great results.

    I had a 100mbps connection from my isp, and my 'network' setup consisted of:

    Modem > power line > unmanaged desktop switch > my computers. I lost about ~20mpbs using Power line, but 80 was still a decent speed. The biggest issue was the occasional disconnect. It was usually a VERY brief interruption, but as you're probably aware even a second of missed gameplay can be devastating. I was never able to overcome this issue, as it was caused by short bursts of interenefce (someone turning on an applience or other device somewhere in the house)

    There is another option you can check out, called MoCA adapters. Rather than using the wiring in your house, this makes use of existing coaxial cable to bring internet to rooms that you cannot run Ethernet to. This obviously only works if your house (or at least starting and destination rooms) are wired with coax.

    If you are stuck using powerline, get a decent set. I have the netgear PL1200, but before that I tried a cheaper actiontec set, which was garbage.

    Edit: fixed link and clarification
u/NarWhatGaming · 1 pointr/RareDeals

This is the powerline ethernet adapter I picked up, it's a bit pricey, but I wanted to future proof for a bit.

u/monopticon · 1 pointr/wichita

Ah. Well the good news boils down to two things that you've already figured out.

Get a better stand-alone router and use that. Honestly if your hardwired devices are no issue, which I realized not long after I commented, then you shouldn't have to worry about a new modem at all. Just a good stand-alone router.

Aside from that, for any devices that can be hardwired (laptops, desktops, consoles) you can always get a powerline adapter. Especially for a console.

If your home is massive then for phones/tablets you can bridge routers or get range extenders.

Right now I'm using a netgear powerline adapter for my desktop and our old xbox 360 is hardwired to our second router.

For how our apartment is set-up it's the only way to avoid running cables in inconvenient places. Also, my husband is much happier with his wifi signal on our second router in the bathroom compared to the 1st router's signal. So there's that.

u/ferapy · 1 pointr/techsupport

behold basement greatness

in short the ethernet is run over the electricity in ur home. sure beats running CAT5 everywhere!

u/natesel · 1 pointr/homelab

Most of the bandwidth is taken up by the PLEX VM, transferring files from the seedbox to local storage, and some light web browsing. Other than that there isn't much network usage for this machine.

Do you have a recommended adapter? I found these that looked pretty decent:

TP-Link AV2000

Extollo Ethernet Powerline LANSocket 1500



*edit: formatting