(Part 2) Best powersports batteries according to redditors

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We found 131 Reddit comments discussing the best powersports batteries. We ranked the 71 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.

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Top Reddit comments about Powersports Batteries:

u/jgagnon_in_FL Β· 4 pointsr/SelfSufficiency

11 lbs.

Yeah, I think I am ok with my 2x Fullriver 224 Amp 6 Volt golf batteries (224Ah @ 12 Volt or 2688Wh) w/ 2000 Watt Pure Sine inverter (to power actual appliances up to and including air conditioners) w/ my suitcase 100 W Solar solution in the back of my Jeep. It's more likely I will drive that apparatus around then I will carry an under-powered 11 lb "battery pack"

Also a retail price of $599. You could reproduce the aforementioned battery bank for the same price:

Fullriver Group GC2 6V 224Ah T-105 AGM Sealed Lead Acid Battery

Yes it weighs 120 lbs for the two of them, but you are getting 4.5 WH per $ as opposed to 0.69 WH per $

Lithium Ion is still EXPENSIVE a f, the advantage obviously is the weight savings, but in this case now you are talking 37.8 WH per LB vs. my setup of 22.4 WH per LB, so you are effectively saving half the weight but paying 5x the cost per WH.

Alternatively you could get a 200Ah Li-Ion battery for $2400 that weight 72 lbs, so similar weight savings at a much better price 1 WH per $

..and for the curious a 35Ah (440Wh) Li-Ion battery for $450 that weighs 10 lbs - so given that price this unit with its electrical "wizardry" built in is not that much of a ripoff.

u/1832pro Β· 3 pointsr/vandwellers

Hello - One thing I'm learning as I continue to read more, watch more videos and build more vans out... You can definitely get some cheap "trainers" but 9 out of 10 times, you get what you pay for. I hope these work out. Batteries aren't cheap, on doubt. If you head over to my friends at the "Explorist Life" and check out this video specifically speaking to the pros' & con's of AGM versus Lithium. You may want to rethink your investment.

It will benefit you immensely if you can realistically tally up the devices, lights, USB chargers, etc and determine what their power needs are and then try to determine your usage of each... This will give you a rough guideline in how many Amp Hours you'll need.

Personally I have switched to lithium because the math just makes sense. There are a lot of affordable solutions out there that aren't BattleBorn tagged. For instance there's Orient Power. Will Prose and Jerry G (YouTubers) have done some extensive reviews of Orient's offering and have good things to say. I can vouch for them as well. I currently have 200W in Renogy solar on the roof coming into a Victron SmartSolar MPPT 100/20 Solar Charge Controller 100V 20A. From there it feeds a single 100Ah bank. I also have a Lithium Battery Isolation Manager so I can charge my "house" battery when my "starter" batteries register as fully charged. As an additional power source I have a Xantrex Freedom 806-1840 HF 1800 Inverter/Charger. This allows me to covert my 12VDC to 110VAC but it also always me to plug into my home's 110VAC to charge and power the van. I know you are new to this so I don't expect you to go out and get all this setup... But I figured I'd go down the rabbit if you wanted some food for thought in regards to future proofing your setup.

So one last note for some context to this battery's performance... I have a small Norcold fridge that's always on, 8 LEDs in the ceiling, USB chargers, a Maxxair, two USB powered fans and a 110 outlet to power my laptop... When I had only 1x100W panel up top I will kill the battery before 10pm. I added a second 100W and wired it in series and since then I've not killed the battery. I've consistently woken up in the morning see my meter reading above 12.9V. I've been very happy with Orient Power's offering after 4mo of use so far. I bought a second 100Ah battery to add but at this point I haven't needed it.

Hope this helped..?

u/johnkiniston Β· 3 pointsr/scooters

$35.50 with free shipping from Amazon

http://www.amazon.com/YTX7A-BS-High-Performance-Maintenance-Motorcycle/dp/B00IUV846I/ref=sr_1_5?s=automotive&srs=3020803011&ie=UTF8&qid=1459269582&sr=1-5

I have the 4 amp version of this battery in my Elite E's, Razz and other 50cc bikes and it's great. I like the display and alarm it has built in for low voltage.

u/BlorfMonger Β· 3 pointsr/scooters

I mean, a battery is like 30 bucks. It is possible you might be able to charge it up again. But if you can't then you just have to buy a battery anyways.

https://www.amazon.com/YTZ7S-Battery-Honda-PCX150-2013-2014/dp/B01159ABQC

u/xenosaga001 Β· 2 pointsr/hondashadow

The older vlx 600s(pre 2000) don't have a gear reduction starter so need all the voltage and amps you can give it. I have a black 91' that looks just like yours. I'd recommend this one on Amazon. It's $29.99 and has high reviews. It's the right size too, the (pre2000) vlx 600 uses a short battery. Just make sure and get a battery tender/maintainer if you don't ride often.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K53BM0E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_CWkYBbZ4JVFGM

u/tminus7700 Β· 2 pointsr/Electricity

The router I have seen are one of three voltages. 5, 9, 12. So if he starts with a 12 volt lead acid battery and either an off line float charger or solar charger, he can use it directly on 12V or with a buck converter to 9 or 5V.

I installed some security cameras at my house and have a commercial float charger with gel cells to get 12VDC to run the cameras and recorder. So power cutoff won't stop the cameras.

u/77ticktock Β· 2 pointsr/fz6

Amazon has 'em

And for the Li-Ion battery (easier to leave without constant charging + weight savings): also on Amazon

u/geekaz01d Β· 2 pointsr/vandwellers

Its quite easy to isolate a house battery from the starter battery. For example, my car has a cigarette lighter adapter in the trunk. It only runs when the car is on. You could also use a relay to do this; closing the relay when the car is on. Or when a switch is actuated. Blue Sea has a nice automatic battery isolator.


However there is another issue to consider. Mixing the chemistry of the batteries you want to charge can cause issues (mostly it abuses the batteries and they don't last as long.)


To cover both problems in one go, the best way to do what you are talking about is to use one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011J76CFE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For a small workload, you can use one or more of these packs: https://www.amazon.com/Mighty-Max-Battery-Replaces-Schumacher/dp/B00UOPR6YE/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=mighty+max+22ah+sla&qid=1555885031&s=gateway&sr=8-2

u/wav4rm Β· 2 pointsr/diysound

I’ve thought a lot about this actually and have a few options. Batteries are limited by how much current they can put out at once but fortunately woofer power ratings are not actually how much power they use, and because you have capacitors in your amplifier you don’t need to β€œfeed” the system high-amperage peaks of electricity - the amp will draw a constant(ish) amount of power and feed the speakers the spikes they need. So if you use a 200w (total) amplifier you can prob get away with 50-75w of draw on the battery. Totally doable but not great for 18650s - need a bunch of them. The Soundboks uses a battery configuration like this which is the form factor of a scooter battery. Fairly light, can pump out plenty of watts. I have not used the linked battery, but something in that form factor will be a good place to look. You can safely assume that all battery manufacturers are liars about capacity; buy 1.5-2x what you think you’ll need.

In your testing, get a meter and check how much actual power your amp is drawing when playing at β€œfull” volume, then you can figure out from there how many watt-hours your battery needs to be for a given playtime on the speaker.

u/graperkins Β· 2 pointsr/motorcycles

How old is the battery? If the bike was unloved, did the previous owner take care of the battery? If it still has the old T battery, replace it with this:

https://www.amazon.ca/Maintenace-Performance-Replacement-Maintenance-KMG/dp/B00JH25PTI/ref=sr_1_cc_5?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1472430443&sr=1-5-catcorr&keywords=ytz14s

I put one in my 1985 vt750 and it has worked great so far (~10,000 km). If you're hesitant to buy a new battery, take the old one out and test it...put it on a trickle charge for a few days and slap it back in the bike and see if the instrument panel lights up...if not, time to grab a multimeter and start tracing wires.

You'll also want to grab the Honda Service manual from here, chapter 18 has some stuff on troubleshooting electrical/charging problems:
http://www.mediafire.com/file/w6ygxyc023fo95i/vt750c__.pdf

u/sp00ney Β· 1 pointr/klr650

The ones I've seen are around $90-150 US. There may be more expensive ones, not sure. This is the one I was checking out:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JXAH7O0

u/likeabaws69 Β· 1 pointr/diyaudio


I'd really like to find something that can stand on its own without a sub, since none of my groomsmen will have a sub. Other than the Sprites, it looks like the rest of those were designed to be paired w/ a sub.

I saw the Sprites original design was a boombox, which I thought was pretty cool. I think that would be the most practical form that my groomsmen would use. Then I got to thinking, if it's going to be a boombox it needs to have bluetoof and I need to fit an amp and battery. Here's what I came up w/:

speakers $42.70
http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-nd90-8-3-1-2-aluminum-cone-full-range-driver-8-ohm--290-210

port tubes $5.14
http://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-speaker-cabinet-port-tube-1-3-8-id-adjustable--260-388

filter parts $17.19
http://www.parts-express.com/jantzen-audio-090mh-20-awg-air-core-inductor-crossover-coil--255-046
http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dnr-20-20-ohm-10w-precision-audio-grade-resistor--004-20

amp $16.99
https://www.amazon.com/INSMA-TDA7492P-Amplifier-Wireless-Bluetooth/dp/B01BTJZFY6/ref=sr_1_1?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1467991447&sr=1-1&keywords=bluetooth+speaker+amp+board

battery $15
https://www.amazon.com/ExpertPower-EXP1250-Alarm-Battery-Terminals/dp/B0010Z4MDK/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1468001600&sr=8-7&keywords=12v+sla+battery

battery charger $20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LICD2TU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATW4RRWB3JMSM

u/Jooshmeister Β· 1 pointr/Shitty_Car_Mods

A few more ways you can shave weight off of your S-series Saturn:

1). If weather is no issue than you can completely remove the A/C and cabin heating systems (A/C compressor, condenser, accumulator, expansion valve, heater core, blower motor, piping and wiring). Even if you want to retain the heat, you eliminate around 30lbs of material. Without, it's around 50lbs! Also, without the drag of the compressor clutch you regain 10-15HP.

2). The power steering system can be modified to be a de-powered rack-only closed loop, eliminating the power steering pump and reservoir and associated tubing (~10lbs). It is stiffer at low speeds, but can be quite manageable. This also frees up more horsepower that the engine was using to operate the pump.

3). Without windows, you can remove the windshield washer fluid reservoir and wiper arms and motor assembly (another 10-20lbs).

4). Since you can hardly hear anything anyway, you might as well throw out the old sound system (radio, four speakers, antenna, wiring). That's another 15-20lbs.

5). Since your system is now so light and Spartan, your battery really doesn't need to be all that large. You can use one of these lightweight batteries and save another 30-40lbs.

6). Nuts and bolts: lots of little things can be removed without affecting the strength or reliability of the vehicle. The front bumper support bracket, most of the exhaust, the spare tire and jacking tools, the floor carpet, the passenger's seat (who is going to ride in this thing with you, honestly!), the intake tubing and air filter. Hundreds of pounds of useless junk!

What you're left with is a "car" that weighs anywhere between 1800-2000lbs and pumps out something like 150hp. That's 13lbs/HP, or similar to a baseline Mustang. Your ears will be bleeding from the engine and exhaust noise, but the wind will carry the blood away so that's ok. Your car isn't exactly fast, it's just not slow anymore, so everyone looking at you will only see your rear bumper as you peel away. Also, mechanical work will be a breeze as all of the components are right there and readily accessible.

u/I_luv_cp_hmm Β· 1 pointr/ebikes

Can this battery do that?

https://www.amazon.com/Pre-Wired-48V-Ebike-Battery-Pack/dp/B00IV6G9T6

Sorry I'm a newbie and yeah I know it's a SLA battery but all I can afford

u/tomjoad773 Β· 1 pointr/HondaCB

What battery do you have? Exact spec and/or model number will help us figure out what its putting out.

https://www.batteriesplus.com/battery/motorcycle/honda/cb650sc-nighthawk/650cc/1983

this is a good starting place.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I96JZU8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got one of these for my 1980 cx500 and it has worked fine for the past 8 months.

When in doubt, go higher.

u/bedhed Β· 1 pointr/harborfreight

I'm running this battery in mine: 30 bucks, with prime shipping.

EBC CTX9BS 12V 9Ah 105CCA Motorcycle Battery

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H7DTMK2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_OcFqzbMPSR48W

u/AlphaMoose67 Β· 1 pointr/landscaping

Up to 1hr of run time on the 7.5Ah battery that comes with that mower.

The batteries range for around 2.0Ah to 10.0Ah. I’d expect the 2.0Ah to last maybe 20 minutes(?) and the 10.0Ah to run up to maybe an hour and a half or so.

As with most battery powered tools the batteries themselves are the most expensive part, with a replacement 7.5Ah battery clocking in at $365

u/URIDIOTLOL Β· -4 pointsr/Futurology

A 12V 200Ah battery(2.4kWh) can be had for ~$312 on amazon

a 5kW inverter is $1425 on amazon

That gives you a 31kWh storage solution for $5500. Even if you opt for more expensive batteries and inverter(s) I don't see how you end up with something with less storage than a powerwall?

But I guess It's marketed for a very special crowd that care more about how sleek and trendy their battery storage is than what it costs.