(Part 2) Best powersports chains & accessories according to redditors

The difference is the number of links.

Stock gearing on the naked versions is 15/45 and calls for 110 links. Still as the other commenter points out I'd probably avoid these and buy more reputable brands.

EDIT: consider this set instead

https://www.amazon.com/Ek-520X120-Sro6-Chain-520SRO6-120-SKJ/dp/B00T6J3K6W?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0

Use a link press (or similar tool) to make sure the link is seated as far as it will go. Or go with a $6.40 riveted master
https://www.amazon.com/JT-Sprockets-JTC520HDSGBRL-Rivet-Connecting/dp/B00SYLSTY6/ref=sr_1_13?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1494794577&sr=1-13&keywords=520+rivet+link

Amazon has a bunch cheap. Iglobalbuy Aluminum Chain Tensioner Bolt on Roller Motocross Chopper Dirt Street Bike ATV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NJM6046/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_WnCWCbD8C308A

No worries man, bored at work and just trying to help best I can.

For the chain I would first recommend some elbow grease and wd-40 to see how much of the rust comes off first, if it's still bad then get a new chain. You want 520 o-ring

Here's an example of a chain:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007A8OSKS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_7WSnzbNPFVXVS

Haynes manual:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071JGBM3N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_CYSnzbGCH3HYT


I wouldn't pay a shop more than $50 for a chain swap as it takes maybe 30min to do. Easy enough to do yourself if you want an excuse to drink a beer in the garage.

Gorgeous looking bike, have fun!

I went with Competition Werkes exhaust with the baffle and their tidy tail kit. Fairly cheap, I think $650 shipped from them. I did see the tidy tail separately on Amazon and Revzilla for about $20 cheaper the other day

https://www.instagram.com/p/BPQSXb2j4V-/

I've read all over that tuning for the exhaust on the 13+ years is a pain, but isn't neccessarily required. I havnt noticed any difference in power, but it does pop on decel a ton. Some people complain about hesitation off the line, but I havnt had any issues

The M4 GSXR 750 exhaust will bolt right up and looks and sound pretty damn good for $260

https://www.instagram.com/p/BOvLXpTjo-S/

11-16 SUZUKI GSXR600 & 750: M4 GP Series Slip-On Exhaust - Black (BLACK) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007C68PNY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5fIJybTM02DJ6

https://www.instagram.com/p/BPQOJNYDhpw/

I reused the old turn signals so I wouldn't have to cut the wires. They included smaller ones with splice connectors

I didn't want to go too crazy and drill a bigger hole so I used their plate light and had to splice 2 wires

The fit and finish of the kit is great for the price. A little gap here or there, but it feels solid and everything works

I also got a Supersprox stealth 45T for $100 on Amazon

+2 over stock and makes a bit of difference. Will fit on a broken-in stock chain too.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BPP_VqHjYk6/

Supersprox Stealth Gold 530 45 Tooth Rear Sprocket for Triumph 955 1050 Speed Triple Daytona Sprint https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HF7XXB4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_c7HJyb5C9XEJW

My next mod will be a steel braided line for the rear. I noticed that when I took off the chain guard, my chain had touched the brake line and scuffed it a bit. I had to adjust the banjo bolt to avoid it touching again. I'll be replacing that ASAP

> Is there any way to tell by looking?

lol yeah, one has a solid nose and the other has a hollow nose. The ends of the master link tell you.

Solid nose have a solid nose

Hollow nose have a hole on the end

Hello!

I've got a 2012 FZ8, and I just replaced the chain and both sprockets. Here's what I used:

• DID 525VXGB X-Ring Chain
  
• Sunstar 42116 Countershaft Sprocket
  
• Sunstar 2-459546 Rear Sprocket
  
  The problem: Pretty much any time I'm moving, I get a pretty loud whirring/buzzing/whining sound coming from the area of the front sprocket. I'm 98% it's the chain itself, at the moment it rotates around the front sprocket. Here's the facts:
  
  
• Increases in pitch as speed increases (though 35-45mph seems to increase sharply)
  
• Increases amplitude as load increases (e.g. it's much louder at 3/4 throttle than at 1/8th throttle)
  
• I might have those mixed up (my memory sucks)
  
• Only appears under positive load (cruise/acceleration)
  
• Almost completely disappears under negative load (deceleration)
  
• Still occurs with the clutch in and coasting, but not as loud
  
• Stock sprocket has a rubber insert, new sprocket does not (I imagine this could have something to do with it)
  
  I've adjusted the chain to spec and aligned the sprockets the best I could. When I installed the chain, I cleaned off the grease that came with it with kerosene, let it dry, and went for a test ride. I've since (after the test ride to warm up the chain) applied chain lube and haven't ridden it since. This is the first time I've changed a chain on a bike before. Is this sound normal? Does it go away? It's not terribly annoying, since my leg blocks 90% of the noise (I only hear it when I move my head to the side, or open up my legs), but I just want to make sure I didn't do anything wrong. I torqued all nuts to spec on both sprockets and the axle. I've put the front sprocket cover back on (I had it off during the test ride), so I imagine that it will muffle the sound a bit. I also normally ride with earplugs so that will help too.
  
  Here's a video that shows the sound. I only get up to aboue 25-30mph, but you can still hear it. Notice that once I cut the throttle, the sound disappears. And keep in mind that it's a lot louder than the video makes it seem.
  
  Thanks!

https://www.amazon.com/KING-PROCOMPANY-stroke-Motorized-Master/dp/B00NIGUEYU/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1539813408&sr=8-4&keywords=415+chain#customerReviews
I've been using this one for 500 miles now

Barely...

I have three responses. 06 SV650S here. 520 kit (-1/+2, Chain and Sprocket below), K&N, DanMoto XG1 baffleless.

0) Do a Chain and Sprocket first. IMPO the PCV does little to increase acceleration, the changes are more dynamic the just raw power. (I don't know what a Zero Map is). Replacing your stock 530 pitch chain and sprockets with light weight (NOT Aluminum) 520 bits is one of the coolest upgrades. The 520 kit improve acceleration, wheel horsepower and torque by reducing rotating mass.

• Chain
  
  • https://www.amazon.com/RK-520-GXW-XW-Ring-Chain/dp/B002OMSCWK/ $95
    
• Front Sprocket
  
  • https://www.amazon.com/Driven-Racing-Sprocket-Suzuki-1999-2008/dp/B07BQJS1J4 $45
    
• Rear Sprocket
  
  • https://www.amazon.com/Driven-Racing-Steel-Rear-Sprocket/dp/B00M9M80UE $50
    
• Rivet Kit
  
  • https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0087Y493A $100
    
    

1. PC V with a Dyno tune = YES! << I'm planning to get this done but not for power, I'm looking to lean out the bike for efficiency after the chain and sprocket set. I want better mileage, lower the richness.
   
   
2. PC V with downloaded maps = NO!!! << I removed mine and enjoy the bike more. It runs rich either way. Without the PCV the bike seems better across the power band. I have added a couple maps, some changes, still always rich.
   
   Note: I've had two NGK cr8e spark plugs fail/foul in the last 6 months. Care Extras with you if your running rich.

I gave them this kit:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E0IKF2G/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have to double check my slack but since it is aftermarket and has no rubber damping, is the howling ok?

https://www.amazon.com/RK-Racing-Chain-M530HD-120-Connecting/dp/B00BV6W6DQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1501682128&sr=8-4&keywords=RK+530+chain

Get something like that. Plenty strong for a Vulcan.

I got about 7k out of my OEM. I tried the JIT, and will never do another (broke, and not at the master link). I went with a heavier chain this last time and it's been awesome - more than 12k on it now, very little adjustments needed, and no kinking so far.

DID Chain for NC: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006O85ULQ

Spare Master Link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0068FTJJ4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

FWIW, I have the OEM sprockets still on at 30K and they both still look good. When it comes time to get new sprockets, I will be going with OEM again.

Looking around, I found this site

And it looks like stock chain for the 1981 year is 630

Which seemingly runs between ~50-65 dollars.

I would try to talk him down to $1000 if you could. You also have the advantage of a winter sale with you.

how do i know what will fit it? 36t offset x 104 bcd, not sure what the 104bcd means? http://www.amazon.com/RaceFace-Light-Bash-Guard-104mm/dp/B007VUOO7C/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1454259034&sr=1-1&keywords=blue+Bash+Guard

Here ya go https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006O85XFE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_U-nsDb56NSD0R

Installed:

-Trail Tech 752-119 Vapor computer

-FMF PowerCore 4 exhaust

-JD rejet 39mm FCR carb

-Aluminum skid plate

Purchased (will install):

-Kenda K270 (3.25-21 front, 5.10-18 rear)

-JTR808.41 41T Steel Rear Sprocket

-DID 520VX2GB-110 Gold X-Ring Chain with Connecting Link

-MCCT, red billet

-Silicone coolant hoses

-FMF PowerBomb header

-Kick Start V162

-2011 DR-Z400S subframe

-2-port USB charger / voltmeter

-Weego JSPT524 Powersports Tether

Need to do:

-Free power mod

-Loctite clutch bolts and stator bolts

Cargo, haven't bought anything here yet:

-PMR rear rack and sissy bar.

Haven't decided between side racks:

-Option 1 - metal looks sturdy but has just 2 mounting points

-Option 2 - great that it attaches around back for extra stability, not sure how many actual mounting points it has

-Option 3 PMR again, I like that they seem to hug the bike well but not sure if metal panniers can be used, or just bags. And in fact these only seem to have 2 mounting points as well... what's the weight capacity on any of these setups if they all only have 2 mounting points?

Still researching:

-SM footpegs or similar wide option

-LED headlight bulb

-Steel brake lines

-Windscreen

-What the hell taillight I have and where to find a flat metal sheet to get my license plate to mount on it, since the existing metal plate is broken

-Ceramic coating for FMF PowerBomb header

-Ceramic wheel bearings link link link. Expensive, but would be neat if price were no object. Will be doing mostly street riding.

-Lithium battery or capacitor - this looks appealing, and ThumperTalk carries a capacitor that would cut down on weight but would mean no electric start. I have a kick start kit though so maybe I want to live without a battery, not sure.

-Iridium CR9EIX plug

-Tool kit in one of those black plastic canisters at the rear of the bike on the left, opposite the exhaust tip

-Seat Concepts seat

-Find passenger pegs & mounts to add to the S subframe

Frivolous but tempting:

link

link

link

link

link

link

short answer is no. Different mfgrs use different ID on the pins. I've tried with that exact same setup. Still running clip link w/ no issues after 2k mi. Let me dig around b/c I thought I found a DID 520 rivet somewhere.

ETA: how about this It's not black but natural. Use the color difference as a visual indicator on where to start / stop lubing the chain. It's also an x-ring not an "o" but that makes no difference in the rivet.