(Part 2) Best powersports drive train parts according to redditors

I was just looking at these fancy ones
OTB Chain Adjusters GEN 2

The difference is the number of links.

Stock gearing on the naked versions is 15/45 and calls for 110 links. Still as the other commenter points out I'd probably avoid these and buy more reputable brands.

EDIT: consider this set instead

Just bought one of these for a similarly sized 3hp tecumseh, no idea if your engine comes with a bolt and washer, but you might have to order that separately.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M63YUTW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_gTAxDbBCPYS6X

https://www.amazon.com/CDH-Multifunctional-performance-teeth-sprocket/dp/B074SDZGGP/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1509566052&sr=8-1&keywords=gas+bike+sprocket

Amazon has a bunch cheap. Iglobalbuy Aluminum Chain Tensioner Bolt on Roller Motocross Chopper Dirt Street Bike ATV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NJM6046/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_WnCWCbD8C308A

Use a link press (or similar tool) to make sure the link is seated as far as it will go. Or go with a $6.40 riveted master
https://www.amazon.com/JT-Sprockets-JTC520HDSGBRL-Rivet-Connecting/dp/B00SYLSTY6/ref=sr_1_13?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1494794577&sr=1-13&keywords=520+rivet+link

https://www.amazon.com/Ek-520X120-Sro6-Chain-520SRO6-120-SKJ/dp/B00T6J3K6W?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0

This should do the trick https://www.amazon.com/Wingsmoto-Variator-Cooling-Scooter-139QMB/dp/B0150VZ1G6/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=gy6+variator+fan&qid=1555795875&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Realistically all your need is the "All Balls Kit" for your wheel hubs. However if you really want to be thorough then you want get 19, 20, 21, 23, and 24..

Edit - Rear Kit All Balls Bearing Kit
http://www.amazon.com/All-Balls-Racing-25-1087-Bearing/dp/B01B7PAVG4/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1462818561&sr=1-1&keywords=all+balls+wheel+bearings+honda+rebel+rear

Link for the lazy:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Muc-Off-Motorcycle-Bike-Cleaner-5L/dp/B01DVJITYK/ref=nav_ya_signin?ie=UTF8&qid=1511778909&sr=8-7&keywords=Muc+Off&

Also, the fuckers. I just bought a bottle the other day.

Hey everyone,

Looking for some advice as I can't find any additional information on this no matter where I look. I need to replace the chain/sprocket on my 2003 SV650. I've narrowed down my choice to one product but there are two versions:

15/45 110L

15/45 114L

Guys...for the life of me I can't find a difference. Is it the number of links in the chain? Because I can't find what my OEM version is. Looking for any help I can get, thanks!

Yes. And it worked quite well on a lowside! Here's the link

Here is a tuning kit

> do the weights matter if I get some stage six one or some generic ones

Unless you are racing a decent set (of 6) is probably $10 or you can go fancy and get $15 ones. NCY weights are more like $20 but I'd consider that high end fancy schmancy.

It's worth noting that your weights should be inspected/changed every 1000 or so miles anyway, so if you bought used it would probably be good to go ahead and change them. Here is a very good GY6 service manual too BTW

You will likely also (arguably) need a torque wrench for reassembling the transmission and a clutch holder. If you don't have these you can get by using other methods or a strap wrench

Its worth noting there are also sliders that you can use instead of rollers. If it makes any difference probably has to do with the slope in your variator and the design of the slider. There are many, many different combinations.

I found one source that says:

> "for every .5 grams heavier , it seems as if you loose about 250 rpms or so. Maybe a little less. "

but I cannot say if that is accurate or not.

You might also be able to change your variator to get a little bit more difference as well. As with changing weights its something some people seem to swear by and others say does nothing. Either way companies like NCY make nice parts that may be lighter and generate less/dissapate more heat, last longer, and offer a smoother ride than stock parts. If you go this route you can usually do it one piece at a time.

I'm still pretty new to all this though :-O so by all means if someone sees I said something inaccurate let me know!

This is a variant of an L-Faster motor kit. I just recently picked up a 36v version on Amazon for about $90 USD. Let me take you on a dead-end journey.

I bought this kit with the intention of putting in on a donor bike and powering it with three cheap SLA batteries in serial. Shortly after ordering this kit, I get an email from the seller telling me that any battery I use with the kit has to have a working current of 20A or less or else the controller will be fried. Not a big deal since I'm working with SLA batteries of 10ah or less.

When I received the kit, I got kinda antsy and wanted to see if the mounting plate would fit on my current bike only to find out that it did not. But my bike isn't some off-the-shelf department store bike, so I shrug and started looking for a donor bike. After searching thrift stores, pawn shops and yard sales, I find an old steel framed twelve speed for $20 that also has the left side seat and chain stays at the correct angle for the mounting bracket. I figure it'll just be a quick afternoon project to get it running.

Except the kit is meant to be mounted on the left side. The kit came with a threaded freewheel socket that was supposed to just screw into place on on the hub. But this is a department store bike, so the left side of the wheel hub is just smooth, unthreaded metal. So I watch a few Youtube videos to see what I'm missing. and none of them are any help. I would just use the sprocket from a gas motor kit, but that means I have to figure out how to remove the nine tooth fixed sprocket from the motor and mount the sixteen tooth freewheel to the gearbox shaft on the motor.

Right now, I'm thinking about mounting the whole thing on the right side by removing three gears from the cassette and mounting the freewheel sprocket in their place, but I don't even know if that's possible since this bike is probably over a decade old and obviously from Walmart.

In short, you need to know exactly what you're doing before you buy one of these things. It could be exactly what you're looking for. For all I know, it could be a neat little ride for short trips around town, but I have no way to mount this thing and I haven't found a single bike that I can actually mount it to.

https://www.amazon.com/KING-PROCOMPANY-stroke-Motorized-Master/dp/B00NIGUEYU/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1539813408&sr=8-4&keywords=415+chain#customerReviews
I've been using this one for 500 miles now

I did this to my 300 a while back.

This is all you need for the rearset. and this for the shifter and a couple allen wrenches

Barely...

I have three responses. 06 SV650S here. 520 kit (-1/+2, Chain and Sprocket below), K&N, DanMoto XG1 baffleless.

0) Do a Chain and Sprocket first. IMPO the PCV does little to increase acceleration, the changes are more dynamic the just raw power. (I don't know what a Zero Map is). Replacing your stock 530 pitch chain and sprockets with light weight (NOT Aluminum) 520 bits is one of the coolest upgrades. The 520 kit improve acceleration, wheel horsepower and torque by reducing rotating mass.

• Chain
  
  • https://www.amazon.com/RK-520-GXW-XW-Ring-Chain/dp/B002OMSCWK/ $95
    
• Front Sprocket
  
  • https://www.amazon.com/Driven-Racing-Sprocket-Suzuki-1999-2008/dp/B07BQJS1J4 $45
    
• Rear Sprocket
  
  • https://www.amazon.com/Driven-Racing-Steel-Rear-Sprocket/dp/B00M9M80UE $50
    
• Rivet Kit
  
  • https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0087Y493A $100
    
    

1. PC V with a Dyno tune = YES! << I'm planning to get this done but not for power, I'm looking to lean out the bike for efficiency after the chain and sprocket set. I want better mileage, lower the richness.
   
   
2. PC V with downloaded maps = NO!!! << I removed mine and enjoy the bike more. It runs rich either way. Without the PCV the bike seems better across the power band. I have added a couple maps, some changes, still always rich.
   
   Note: I've had two NGK cr8e spark plugs fail/foul in the last 6 months. Care Extras with you if your running rich.

What bike?

Honestly, something like this is probably perfectly fine.

https://www.amazon.com/XFMT-Heavy-Motorcycles-O-Ring-Master/dp/B06VT91FZ1/ref=sr_1_20?ie=UTF8&qid=1501675331&sr=8-20&keywords=525+chain

Before chains got fancy with O rings, then X rings then XVXZY rings, we simply went down the to the local bike shop and they pulled how every many links off a big roll.

If you wanted to be fancy, you got the "Made in USA" Diamond brand chain. Otherwise, it was on a roll from Asia.

Although, I run gold plated EK X rings chains now...