Best powersports electrical products according to redditors
We found 622 Reddit comments discussing the best powersports electrical products. We ranked the 222 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 622 Reddit comments discussing the best powersports electrical products. We ranked the 222 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
[This might work] (http://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4). it had all the keys so you can test them out yourself
WASD's better switch tester is always $16.
If you don't mind using Aliexpress, a 4-switch Cherry mx tester is under $4. Mine took 10 days to arrive with free shipping.
Either way, though, switch testers are a poor way to select a switch. Typing on a keyboard is really the only way; switches feel very different when you slowly press them down one at a time on a tester. Go out to a hardware store or a meet and try things out; it's free, and it'll give you a much better idea of what you're looking for.
^ Yes. https://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4
I got the Daymaker knock off for my '16 Sportster from Amazon for $50 and it's been perfect. Bight as all hell. and was a breeze to install.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DZU30S0/
Yeah, pure dumb luck mostly. I received a WASD key tester along with some stuff I ordered. It must have been accidentally packed by the picker which I'm sure happens a lot, but not predictably enough for it to be useful. I also ended up ordering a WASD mechanical keyboard shortly after so it ended up costing me quite a bit.
Also received a free Dell laptop kind of in the same way. My friend ordered a Dell laptop, they sent him the wrong one, so they gave him a shipping label to return it which he did, then he received the correct laptop as well as the laptop he sent back. Dell contacted him to say they didn't receive the laptop he sent back but he has the tracking number which indicated that they received it. Dell dropped the case after that and he ended up giving me the laptop.
Fair point regarding peripherals you physically interact with, like keyboards and mice. I was thinking you were talking more about components like processors, RAM, and so forth. I recently went through a similar ordeal trying to find a gaming headset I liked.
Stores like Best Buy and Staples will usually have one mechanical keyboard in stock, but it's hit or miss as to whether they'll have a demo unit on display for you to touch and feel. Doesn't help much if there's a physical box in front of you, but you can't open it to get a feel for the product.
My wife has been considering a mechanical keyboard, and she actually bought this switch tester that lets you get a feel for the different switch types. It was helpful to rule out the ones I definitely wouldn't want, but without being able to see on-screen response and have an entire set of keys under hand it still wasn't the demo I would have hoped for.
(I'm conflicted between the Cherry red and brown types. Red seems to be the one you'll find most commonly in mass-market mechanical keyboards.)
Do you have quality lighting? If not I upgraded my halogen bulb to an LED headlight I found on amazon and it made a huge difference.
Amazon link here.
I also have put horns on my bike:
Picture of the horns.
Test video. It's much louder than it sounds in the video. Much louder than a typical car's horns. I only use it for situations where I am not seen by a driver and in danger. Not for casual "fuck you, buddy" type of situations.
Originally I had this set up with industrial zip ties, but it was not a very robust setup, so I removed it before this past winter. The bike is currently sitting in pieces. When I reassemble it I will mount the horn components in a single, weather-resistant enclosure, with a quick-release attachment so I can take it with me when locking up outside.
parts:
From my Google doc:
Headlight Housing (Amazon)
I requested larger fork clamps for the housing to fit the DNM USD-8 since they're 42mm diameter pistons.
Headlight itself (Amazon)
Switch Set (Amazon)
Power Switch (Amazon)
And then as far as the wiring, I crimped all my wires into molex. I use JST a lot but just to be safe with higher amps, molex gives some headroom.
You need to give more info:
Is this a dual battery system charged by your alternator while moving?
Will you use solar to recharge?
What type of trailer and how much “stuff” will be running?
Will you move the trailer every day or use it as a home base?
How much room do you have? (For 1 battery, 2 batteries, etc)
These are just a few questions to start.
Based on a guess (external, camper mount, and road trip), you can use a vented, marine, deep cycle like this: Duralast 29DP. And that will support some LED light strands, and a small fridge for a night or two, possibly more.
Based on my own application (usually daily charge from an over-sized alternator and run a National Luna fridge, and multiple lights), look for a sealed, lead acid, deep cycle battery. For $200 I can order a sealed lead acid from Amazon and that will run everything I need for a few days, then charging off my truck for a days drive.
[Renogy 12 volt Deep cycle AGM] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075RFXHYK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_jwC3DbH19QZ6B)
Lithium batteries can’t be charged when the temp is below freezing. Besides, they cost a fortune (but last a long time tolerating heavy abuse)
Your question is very broad and there are a million varying applications.
Check out Expedition Portal. Start here if you want to read about a dual battery system .
Do you know what particular model it is? I recently got an iron 883 and purchased this LED headlamp off Amazon and it is awesome!!! Super easy install and makes a hell of a difference at night!
LED Headlamp
What you should do is buy a sealed lead acid battery, a power inverter, 12v clips to cig lighter and a charger.
I just picked those products as examples but that would work and would cost around $50. It could probably be cheaper if you look around.
Also the batteries in most small UPS are around 2 amp/hour while the one I picked is 8Ah.
And that would be pretty easy to use.
there are switch testers, bought one to play with before I bought my mx black cougar, then my mx black steelseries 6vg2, then my mx black rosewill...
https://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4
>Switches, where can I try them? is there anything like blues that aren't loud?
You can try out switches by buying a switch tester like this one. I'd say the closest thing to feeling like blues without the click would be cherry MX clears.
> are reds hard to type on?
I wouldn't say they're hard to type on, but that's a bit subjective. Reds are Cherry's lightest switch offering, so someone who likes very heavy switches might find it difficult to type on them, but for someone who's just getting into this stuff or doesn't have a particular preference there isn't anything about Reds that make them hard to type on. They're linear switches, meaning they don't have a click or bump for the actuation, they're just straight force all the way down to bottom-out.
>What is your personal favorite?
Right now my personal favorite is linear switches, with a force somewhere in between reds and blacks. I'm currently using cherry MX black switches and I have some springs that I'm going to modify them with to make them just a bit lighter.
>TKL or full size? seriously have no idea what to do here
This is all about how big you want your keyboard to be. Personally I started out with a full size but with each keyboard I got from there, I went smaller and smaller as I found that there are a lot of keys on a keyboard that I just don't use. I went with TKL and loved it, then tried out some of the smaller sizes like 60%, 65%, and 75%. I decided I liked the 60% but needed my arrow keys so I settled on 65% with my Clueboard.
>RGB is it worth it?
If you're into backlighting RGB is great. There are a few keyboards that are great, solid keyboards that get recommended a lot here that have RGB. Check out the CoolerMaster Masterkeys Pro S and L (S is TKL and L is fullsize) and the Ducky Shine 5.
>macro keys/volume controls are they worth it?
This is something that's pretty much non existent in the higher quality enthusiast-grade boards. You can get volume controls through function keys and such but dedicated volume controls are rare (pretty much just the Das Keyboard 4 that I can think of) and macro keys are very much nowhere except for cheap, badly built "gamer" boards by Razer, Corsair, etc. You'll find that the mk community is all about less is more as far as keyboard sizes go, so adding more keys just to do undefined "macros" with is the opposite of what the community's going for. Instead, it's all about reducing the size of the keyboard and adding more functions to existing keys for more efficiency. For example, a lot of people forego dedicated arrow keys and instead have arrow keys on Function+WASD. Personally I like my arrow keys but that's the idea. The highly sought out keyboards in the community are mostly fully programmable, so basically every key becomes a "macro key" at that point.
Personally, I went with Coolermaster's Master Keys Pro L RGB for the following reasons:
It's no different than people wanting a pen that feels nice on paper and in their hand. Anyone who spends time inputting text appreciates a high quality instrument with a nice feel.
How do you use your keyboard?
Do you value the number pad?
How hard do you press the keys?
Is backlighting important to you?
I recommend buying this switch tester from Amazon to see which switch feels best to you. They're all Cherry MX switches, which are the most common switches that you'll find on boards from Amazon or mechanicalkeyboards.com (another online vendor with free shipping).
If you haven't experienced any of the switches, I highly recommend buying a key switch sampler like this https://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4
I got a Daymaker style LED off of Amazon for less than $50 and it's amazing. Even during the day I can see it's reflection off of road signs. I highly recommend it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01DZU30S0/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1505147395&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=daymaker+led+headlight+for+harley+5.75&dpPl=1&dpID=416A6FSR7fL&ref=plSrch
The first thing is a Dynojet Power Vision, then pipes and getting rid of the back plate, lights, and turn signals. I’m thinking of covering the ugly intake with stickers for awhile, then a K&N. It seems like it would let more air in than the K&N.
Edit: I’m thinking this will help clean up the back end greatly
Wiipro Universal led Harley Davidson Light Strip Tail Brake Stop Turn Signal 32LED 8" Flexible led light for motorcycle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GJGCR9U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KcaWBbNMFS70X
I didn't have a tutorial, but here's what I did.
Here's the end result with some input and output connectors on the outside of the can, as well as a volt meter, USB charge ports and a switch so that the parasitic load from the Astron box doesn't kill it while not in use.
The hookup inside the box is relatively simple:
It's really that simple. This box kicked ass on Field Day, ran my Kenwood TS-50 and AT-50 all day with the solar panel keeping the battery topped off. Ran the system long after dark until I was too tired to work any more.
If you have more questions, look me up.
This blanket draws 4.6 amps at 12 volts. One 35 amp hour SLA battery will power it for 7.6 hours. 35 amp hours / 4.6 amps = 7.6 hours. If you wire two batteries in parallel you'll double your capacity to 70 Ah. This will run your blanket for 15 hours.
You'll hurt your battery if you fully discharge it every night. So maybe take that into consideration especially if you have other stuff you want to be charging. A simple guideline is to have 1 watt of solar for every amp hour (Ah) of battery.
If your 100 watt solar panel can feed 8.3 amps to your 70Ah battery it'd take a little over 8 hours to fully charge. 100 watts / 12 volts = 8.3 amps. 70 Ah / 8.3 amps = 8.4 hours.
I suck at math but am fairly sure I'm doing this right. Hope this helps.
You should try getting a switch sampler to see for yourself. I haven't tried the blues, but the clears are exactly what I was looking for in terms of being tactile, but not loud. But bear in mind there is definitely a break in period with these ones. At first they feel kinda rough as they slide, but that goes away with use.
I had no idea what it would be like, so I ordered a key tester from amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&field-keywords=key%20tester&index=blended&link_code=qs
The exact one I got was:
https://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4
Both the original and chiclet keyboards have a slight bump to them, but the chiclet are a lot less force to push down. After trying it out, I realized I liked typing with the least amount of pressure, hence, the reds which are linear. The browns are very close to the X60 and X200 keyboards.
I was actually considering getting a DIY version and putting in Mattias switches.
It's a Mechanical Keyboard switch tester. Basically, it has one of each of most types of Cherry MX Mechanical keyswitches, so you can figure out which kind you like best before committing to one.
I think it's this one
Goto your local store and try the keyboards on display or buy a Cherry MX Key tester Original site Amazon
I'd recommend either the Cherry Blue edition of the CoolerMaster Storm QuickFire Rapid. It's a great first TKL board, also cheap enough that you can get into it without tremendous regret if Blues aren't really your thing.
If you want to test out some switches and see what's best for you, you can get a switch tester. This one only comes with Cherry switches, but that should be enough for an intro.
For keyboards it should be a simple affair by the way. Most people who are saying they want to test out a keyboard are saying such because they want to test out the switch or better explained the feel of a keystroke. You can easily pick up a switch tester from amazon on the consumer level, so I assume you can pick up something like that for a store. Something like this for example.
A tester with the most common Cherry MX Switches
This one comes with a Novatouch Topre instead of an MX Clear
If you want Gaterons too
You'll get more traction at /r/MechanicalKeyboards/
You should get a Switch Tester to see what kind you like best.
Also, you're going to be hard pressed finding a good quality mechanical keyboard under $100, unless it's on deep sale. Don't cheap out and buy some no-name brand. This is something you're going to use every day for multiple years.
If you want to get a mechanical keyboard i would suggest getting one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457724173&sr=8-1&keywords=key+tester
I bought a couple keyboards (cherry mxred, and cherry mxblue) before buying that tester and found that my favorite feel is clears). Now i want to buy another keyboard....
If you have the money, go for the leopold. I have a magifcforce, and the build quality is good for the price, but I wasn't very impressed with the otemu switches. They were so bad that I just decided to remove them all, and replace them with box navy switches. Before buying anything though, buy a switch tester. I recommend this one. This will save you a lot of headache.
Ah, I bought a thing on ebay that had 6 cherry switches in it red, blue, green, brown, black, and white. Whenever I was at a loading screen or watching a show I'd pick it up and play with the switches, after a week I settled on brown.
In case anybody wants it, this is similar to what I got
https://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4/
Why don't you just buy this and get switches that you like instead of trying to replicate someone else's setup?
https://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4
Also consider going with any number of brands using CherryMX switches. Razer is not the be-all and end-all. You have several options at that price point for a tenkeyless keyboard without having to use a "game-ified" typeface on the keys themselves.
The following is a well-written article by a reputable website about Razer and their "award-winning, universally lauded, industry best" switches.
http://www.anandtech.com/show/7911/razer-blackwidow-ultimate-mechanical-gaming-keyboard-review/3
WASD 6-Key Cherry MX Switch Tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AZQKCD4/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_ngkAwbD3149H3
Test them on store or buy an switch tester
Quite a few people seem to favor MX brown switches (light and tactile) for mixed use, but it's really a matter of personal preference. You might want to get a switch tester to try out a few different types before making a decision (something like this: https://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4).
https://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4
would this be good for testing? I only have tried red and blue and I like blue better for typing. gaming no preference but as I said typing is more important to me. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AZQKCD4
Are your flush mounts LEDs? The lower power they use means they function differently on a stock bike so you've probably had this issue the entire time and haven't noticed. Get a new relay
Some options for storage available here - https://www.twistedthrottle.com/shop-by-bike/yamaha/mt-09-2018/luggage-racks-for-saddlebags
Perhaps for the price you should just consider a large top case.
As for the LED blinkers, you are totally correct. Most everyone "mods" their stock turns by putting ones directly attached to the headlight. It's almost impossible to see them at night. I prefer ones like these :O.
If you go LED blinkers you'll need one of These.
As for the exhaust, that M4 is one of the only options that can be fit to the stock header. The factory exhaust being one piece means you must CUT your factory exhaust to make the M4 fit. Honestly, it'll be so worth it though. Baffle in M4 sounds Great.
https://www.amazon.com/LED-Headlights-Signal-Jeep-Wrangler/dp/B00WM3WDXA/ref=sr_1_10?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1525074994&sr=1-10&keywords=7+Inch+Cree+LED+Headlights
Big fan of these lights:
7" LED Headlights Bulb with White Halo Angel Eye Ring DRL & Amber Turn Signal Lights for Jeep Wrangler JK LJ CJ Hummer H1 H2
Not OP, but I just installed a set of similar halos and they look amazing. I'll post pics as soon as I get unlazy.
This is what I used. Then just drilled a hole in the top corners of a license plate frame and ran the wire through. I will get a picture of them when it is light outside.
Here is a picture I made when I first did them, the white ones you see here wasnt very bright but these black ones seem to be better. They also look better with the black frame. http://imgur.com/3E44Dtn
Partsam LED Strip Light Bar 2X 6 LED Black Third Brake Light Motorcycle Turn Signal Backup License Plate Universal Amber Lights Strip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015H90NBO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pZbIDbBPDH7BV
Looks sharp! Did you use the same process for the plastics as you did for the tank?
Also, looks like you're going for a really clean look, you should consider integrated brake light turn signals and flush mount turn signals
Hey y'all! Some of you asked about mods so here is a full list of what I have done so far with links.
Radiator guard - Has a nice little FZ-07 etched at the bottom.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075MCXCM7/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Shorty levers - Mine are gray but they come in lots of colors.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0197N3KA2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Bar end mirrors - You can find these for less but I chose these because the reviews indicated that they might be better quality than others.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Q3UL6S6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Yoshimura fender eliminator - Kinda pricey for what it is but it looks really nice.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T6J9IM2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Motodynamic integrated tail light - I also looked at the TST but after looking at some videos decided on this one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015NN3YUG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Proton 500 flush mount LED - These things are brighter than the sun. You can also change the signal pattern which I thought was cool.
http://www.hightechspeed.com/products/Proton500/yamaha.html
Flasher relay - Prevents hyper flash and let me get rid of resistors.https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RM26LXO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Stompgrip volcano black - I really like these and they have great grip. You can also get them in clear from their website if that's your thing.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018NH74BE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Akrapovic TI - This exhaust sounds sweet, I also purchased the CAT for it through cyclegear.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L44J56G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Other mods that i'm considering in the future
Stainless Steel braided brake lines, FTECU on the bike flash kit, T-Rex Racing no cut combo.
Bonus - https://i.redd.it/en8vfnpv46u01.jpg
sorry for responding late - had to wait until I got home to take a pic. Bonus video though: here. I have my stupidly-bright LED headlight (this one) on and you can still see the turn signal pretty obviously I think. Here's a pic showing the hose clamp attachment part more clearly (IMO it's not very visible unless you're looking for it).
Eventually I'd like to upgrade it to something like this but obviously I don't have anywhere to put an arduino...
Wisamic 5-3/4" 5.75" LED... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DZU30S0?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Thanks here are the headlights I used.
I got the day lighter "knockoff" off amazon or eBay for like $60.00 with shipping. Pretty
Easy to install looks good and doesn't cost $500.00.
Wisamic 5-3/4" 5.75" Round LED Projection Daymaker Headlight for Harley Davidson Motorcycles Black 9 pcs Bulb https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DZU30S0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_MBg9GsV58RfaJ
Comes in black or chrome.
Edit my bike is a
2013 forty eight
I have this on my Sportster. It does work really well at night. Too lazy to make link on mobile. Wisamic 5-3/4" 5.75" Round LED Projection Daymaker Headlight for Harley Davidson Motorcycles Black 9 pcs Bulb https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DZU30S0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_XBIAzbP3FXTWE
Wisamic 5-3/4" 5.75" Round LED Projection Daymaker Headlight for Harley Davidson Motorcycles Black 9 pcs Bulb https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DZU30S0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_rVMBXkTYQvhee
Wisamic 5.75"
https://smile.amazon.com/Wisamic-5-3-5-75-LED-Headlight/dp/B01DZU30S0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1537471564&sr=8-1&keywords=wisamic+5-3%2F4%22+5.75%22+round+led+projection+daymaker+headlight
Works great in my 2002, should fit the same in the '94 headlight bucket. It's a tight squeeze but it works. The light is awesome, especially compared to the OEM shitbox.
Not sure if this is exactly what you're looking for, but this is the one I have:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DZU30S0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_exGSJbUqNpNv9
It's $50.99 and looks just like the Daymaker. Ive had it for about a month now and it's been great. Easy to install, no extras needed, and no issues with it so far.
2017 with 156 miles on it... original owner (and his son) road it a few miles and then accidentally dropped it off the back of a pickup truck.
The front wheel had a small bend/flat spot but he had it replaced before selling it to me.
New parts coming in tomorrow but I've been riding it with some basic stuff i slapped on it from my garage.
The damage so far:
Got a K&N airfilter and 4 oil filters + some 10-40 Yamalube coming too!
So stoked, already put about 120 miles on it :D
This thing is total goat, I had a DR250 which was an incredible bike too, but this thing is wild...
Edit - Any recommendations for stuff i should get or do to this bike? I'm following the break-in period, aiming for no more than 1/3 throttle until 600 miles, then 1/2 throttle till 1000. Oil changes along the way.
Wisamic 5-3/4 5.75 inch LED Headlight - with Halo DRL Compatible with Harley Davidson Dyna Street Bob Super Wide Glide Low Rider Night Rod Train Softail Deuce Custom Sportster Iron 883 -Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DVX9K99/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PPiyDbC43GZ8F
HOZAN Black 5.75inch Motorcycle LED Headlight Housing 5-3/4 LED Headlight Mount for Harley Honda Suzuki Kawasaki Vulcan Cruiser Bike Cafe racers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071D3TPQ5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_aQiyDb15VTRTP
Awesome to hear another van dweller is in here! my current electrical design includes installing a two alternator system from nations and 4 100AH lithium batteries. That should give me enough power to run the speaker system, TV, Router and Modem and lighting for around 12 hours before needing to start the van and charge up the system. The automation is a total luxury, and adds the wow factor, but if implemented properly may be worth it to me. Budget isn't a huge issue, this will be the first house I ever build. My salary is pretty good and I'm spending $1500 a month to live here in southern california. Without the added rent expense I can justify making this thing an awesome place to live. Maybe a better idea would be adding a separate, solar electrical system with a 5th battery so that the wifi and automation system can stay on at all times.
If you want a single battery, get a 100ah lithium iron phosphate... its gonna cost you though...
AGM batteries are only useful for 50% of their advertised AH rating vs like 80%+ for Lifepo, also lifepo are lighter weight, and have more recharge cycles.
I run 2 of these right now to get 100 useful AH, and I am hopeful that in ~3 years when its time to get new batteries the cost of LifePo will have come down b/c they really are vastly superior in every way.
I don't personally have one, but I've heard good things about the Battleborn batteries.
Contrary to what a lot of people say, as long as you don't abuse them Lithium batteries (especially lifepo4) are pretty safe.
I decided not to do the halo. This is the one I got: Akmties Motorcycle Headlight 5.75... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DXVSJJB?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
And this casing: HOZAN Black 5.75inch Motorcycle... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071D3TPQ5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Halo looks good but wasn’t worth the price jump to me.
Renogy 200 Watt 12 Volt Monocrystalline Solar Starter Kit w/ 40A Rover MPPT Charge... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06VY9DVY9/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_R4YRDbW552GF4
Krieger 1500 Watt 12V Power Inverter, Dual 110V AC Outlets, Installation Kit Inclu... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MS5BY6T/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_u-YRDbS0KJZC6
Renogy Deep Cycle AGM Battery 12 Volt 100Ah for RV, Solar Marine and Off-grid Appl... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075RFXHYK/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_ybZRDb8WFGN0K
This is what I used for my 06 altima ser with Bose Works perfect and super easy to install. Was my second time doing a install.
Doing what you're proposing will end one of three ways:
The adapter you listed are for specific amplifier models designed to accept speaker-level inputs via the RCA cables. These aftermarket amplifiers generally have a switch to change the input type from line level to speaker level so you don't go burning things up.
There probably is a plug and play solution out there to wire an aftermarket deck to your factory amplifier that isn't hacky. I suggest googling it. "[auto year make and model] retain factory amplifier" should do the trick. Like "1999 Nissan Maxima retain factory bose amplifier" results in a PAC ROEM NIS2 adapter.
It was extremely easy. I used this wiring diagram: http://s222.photobucket.com/user/HOTTTiEBOi7/media/g35_pacoem2_to_jvs_kw-avx820_zps17433e60.jpg.html
I had to splice some wires, but everything was plug and play from there. I wouldn't recommend the headunit/adapter combo I got because I had to sand down the adapter a bit to fit it over the head unit.
As others have said you can do this with a relatively small setup. There is a LOT to consider - HOW portable, HOW efficient, etc etc. Help me out if the below suggestions don' t meet the need I can piece together just about any system for you :P
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You could get by on a small sealed lead acid battery designed for uninterruptible power supplies. They range in size but average 9 amp hours. I say get yourself a little 35 amp hour and never worry about discharge rate if you are only powering the win2 even if the sun don't shine that day. For the solar - buy BIGGER than you need - learned this the hard way with my truck camper. Right sized is great until the season changes or its overcast etc.
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Check out this little starter kit - it includes the solar panel and charge controller:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DCDZOI0/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_2ehvCbKCNM5MT
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Down in the frequently bought together you should see a 35ah battery - will fully charge the win2 a few times and not even feel it:
https://www.amazon.com/85980-D5722-Sealed-Battery-UB12350/dp/B001VV0318/ref=pd_bxgy_2/135-2046487-8709925?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001VV0318&pd_rd_r=f062a34c-263c-11e9-b2b2-83751d0b2340&pd_rd_w=Nxcwh&pd_rd_wg=KqE5I&pf_rd_p=3f9889ac-6c45-46e8-b515-3af650557207&pf_rd_r=KWC3NGMZ50M5TJWJ1STT&psc=1&refRID=KWC3NGMZ50M5TJWJ1STT
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12v car charger that I use with the win2 - works great:
https://www.amazon.com/Charger-Anker-PowerDrive-Adapter-MacBook/dp/B071WYF9HP/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549038482&sr=8-3&keywords=anker+pd+2+car+charger
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Plenty portable depending on your needs. Its almost as easy as color coding to setup. You can power the win2 and multiple devices if you so choose. Expandable at a later time if you choose with panel and batts. Will fit in any trunk or backseat. Hell it will fit in a big backpack (panel is 21x26). Large enough charge current to top off your battery quick even in partial sun - big enough reserve to keep you going for a couple days easily. This is just an example of an 'easy' bundle if you wanna save some more money I can show places to get these items cheaper.
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If you wanna talk more DIY and are not afraid of LI-ION 18650s you can build you a safe lighter and denser battery for pretty cheap. It would be piecing together a charge controller and panel but I would say stick to 50w range - affordable and covers your power needs even in less than ideal conditions. If you wanna go more expensive but more portable flexible/foldable panels are out there too.
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12v. I've considered getting another and running in series to get higher charging rates. Right now I can charge at 6.8 amps on my isdt 608. U
PG 85980/D5722 Sealed Lead Acid Battery (12V; 35 AH; UB12350) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001VV0318/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5.oyzbPK44VN7
You will almost certainly need a generator or a running car as /u/Laymanism mentioned. A dual halogen worklight will draw about 1000 watts [1]. A car battery will hold about 18 AH at 12 V [2]. Even with a perfect inverter you would only get about 12 minutes power. You could hook up a bunch of batteries in parallel, but I would recommend a generator and a long extension cord.
That's a tight budget. It is possible but you don't have room for $1000 mistakes.
It isn't really hard if you want a small system in the range of a Suaoki or Yeti. They are 400 watt hours. Divide watts by volts to get amps. 400 ÷ 12 = 33.33 They actually contain a $65 35 amp hour battery like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001VV0318/
That is not compatible with a 12 volt efficient fridge. It is too small. It's simple but it won't work past the first week.
You can get a 100 amp hour battery, 3 times the size, for about $100. A 100 watt solar panel for $100, a $12 to $20 charge controller, and you have a system that can run an Alpicool C20 little efficient 12 volt compressor fridge, $250. There are you tube videos about the Alpicool.
In addition to that you need some AWG # 10 wire, fuse holders, fuses, a $10 multimeter, a $10 hydrometer and as needed sockets for USB, cigarette lighter sockets, led lights and switches. You'll need a cheap crimper and an assortment of crimp terminals. That's a total of $600, including fridge.
For charging laptop and stuff search on amazon for "car charger" and your computer brand and model. They run off 12 volts and are more efficient than double conversion 12 to 120 then 120 to 19. They go 12 to 19. If you have a device where you can't find a car charger then you need an inverter. Smaller is better.
If you want a system big enough to have all the electricity you want, double the solar panels and get a pair of 6 volt golf cart batteries.
Ones I grabbed from the local bike shop, similar to these.
They fitted perfectly into the brackets of my headlights.
The relay behind the headlight shroud? Is that what you are asking?
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.com/Lighting-Controller-Suzuki-Signal-Bandit/dp/B003UN4FXW&ved=2ahUKEwju5cjp5KnjAhUQOs0KHZQ2CEgQFjAAegQIAhAB&usg=AOvVaw0YruURk2ofwFiYCjsK3RCm
I see you have an SV. Just buy this relay: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UN4FXW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Its plug-n-play to the existing relay located under the seat.
That way, you won't have to worry about resistors. I have all LEDs and the relay and the flash rate is normal.
I'd check your turn signal relay, or just replace it since they're cheap. It may have blown with it. Here's the one I bought to work with my LED signals, but it should work for regular bulbs as well if you're not running LED's.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UN4FXW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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It is under the pillion seat, as described in this forum post. You won't need to do all the stuff he does, just pull out the old one and plug in the new one.
https://www.svrider.com/forum/showthread.php?t=163261
The spec sheet says it draws 60 watts.
60 watts times 4 hours is 240 watt hours.
Using a small inverter and 12V lead acid battery, it would take a 20AH battery, 25 taking conversion inefficiency into consideration.
So it will take THIS 19 pound battery to power 4 hours.
I recommend moving to 12v components and then regulating the power back down to 5v for the Pi. There will be many more options and prices will be better.
Start with a solar panel:
http://www.amazon.com/HQRP-Mono-crystalline-Anodized-Aluminum-Radiation/dp/B002HSUT40
Use a charge controller to attach it to your battery(s):
http://www.amazon.com/Sunforce-7-Amp-Charge-Controller/dp/B0006JO0XI
Attach a voltage regulator to the battery and your Pi:
http://www.amazon.com/Ship-Hobbywing-Switch-mode-UBEC-Lowest/dp/B008ZNWOYY/
As far as batteries go, buying local will save you some shipping. If this is an outside battery you can use a deep cycle/RV battery. If inside then you need something sealed. You should have several days of reserve for bad weather. Maybe something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/26-SEALED-VOLT-DEEP-RECHARGEABLE/dp/B007GCDDOA
is this a good second battery I plan on getting two with a 3000 watt inverter http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007GCDDOA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A33OOXQLQV58WQ
This plus This and you are good to go in any post apocalyptic scenario.
You could use solar panels to charge a bank of batteries, and run everything from that.
There are plenty of 12v options for lighting and heating. You can install a power inverter to run any 110v tools and appliances you need.
It's better to be safe than sorry. You don't want to bring out all that gear only to find you can't turn it on.
You'll be fine with any of these with the top one being your best candidate. Just remember to be courteous to your neighbors if people are trying to sleep!
Xantrex 806-1210 PROwatt 1000 SW Inverter
MicroSolar 1000W (Peak 2000W) Pure Sine Wave Inverter
BESTEK® Dual 110V AC Outlets 1000w/1200w Max Car DC 12V to 110V AC Inverter Power
You'll probably want to get a fuse holder and a cable kit depending on how far you expect to keep the table from your car.
You could also go the more environmental route and get some solar panels to juice up a spare solar battery each day.
My humble opinion would be that before you invest in a mechanical keyboard is to get a switch tester ( https://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4/ ) so you can personally feel each type and you make a decision that you will not regret.
And also if u can try to get a Varmilo, Leopold or Ducky. Don't let the "gaming" mech keyboard lure you with their "features".
Yup, there are various samplers out there. This one is all Cherry MX. I would also not discount Gateron as they're very very close. This one is a bit expensive but offers both Cherry MX and Gateron. What I would do, is just get the Cherry MX tester to get a feel for the differences in linear vs tactile vs clicky. Then you can choose Cherry MX Reds (linear), or Brown (tactile), or Blue (clicky). The Chroma you have is either clicky or tactile. Good luck!
If you're worried about getting the right kind of switches, you could try ordering a switch tester to get a feel for different kinds. It's a way to spend a couple bucks to make sure you're getting exactly what you want.
https://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4
that's totally cool, try them for a month, or see about getting a [cherry mx switch tester] (https://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4) and see how they compare
Okay so for your first, you def want to buy a pre-built one, since building your own with parts takes both a lot of keyboard knowledge and a lot of money. I would, personally, suggest either getting a CoolerMaster (any model is good) or a Vortex Pok3r, since they both have relatively good stock keycaps and are well-priced. Before that, if you have $10-15, then I would really advise getting a switch tester so you can decide what type of switches you like. It's better than spending $100+ on a keyboard you don't like. To address your last concern of not liking the board, you can sell a "nicer" keyboard on r/mechmarket, a sub for buying and selling boards, and probably come close to breaking even. But to sell on mechmarket, you need a "desirable" keyboard, which is why I recommended getting a CoolerMaster or Pok3r. They're both pretty good boards/brands. No matter what, though, DO NOT get a Razer/Logitech/Steelseries/Corsair board. They're really overpriced, shit build quality, and nobody would want to buy them for more than 60% of retail on MechMarket.
Along with this, if you want a personal rundown and recommendations on switches, then just let me know.
Also, if you don't have as much $ to spend (or even if you do), I would suggest the Anne Pro board. It's hella good build quality for the price, and a lot of people say that the gateron switches on them feel better than MX switches (which both the pok3r and all of CoolerMaster's selections use.)
Also, I always recommend blue switches because of how nice the click feels to me (and BTW, cherry and gateron blue switches are pretty similar- most switch companies use a consistent coloring system for switches where blue is clicky, brown is tactile (semi-clicky), and red is linear (not clicky at all)) but it's all up to personal preference, so I would again suggest you get a tester or try some boards out at a local computer store to see which kind you like.
Hope all this helps!
A 2080 might even be overkill for 1080p depending on what games you play, but it should last you a long time and also leaves you the option to upgrade to a 1440p monitor if you so desire.
I'm not that knowledgeable about mice and keyboards, but for a mouse you can't really go wrong with a Logitech G502.
For (mechanical) keyboards there is a lot of choice in the $50-150 range, depending on what features you want such as RGB, I know Corsair makes good ones and I've got a CoolerMaster myself that I'm quite happy with, but there are a lot of other manufacturers. You could ask the folks over at /r/MechanicalKeyboards for advice, but be warned that it's a rabbithole, before you know it you'll be looking at $250 keyboards with custom keycaps. ;)
One thing I would do when it comes to mechanical keyboards is figure out what switches you prefer, there's a lot of variation. The ones that are used the most are Cherry MX, which come in several colours denoting their function. Reds are more silent and offer no resistance, Browns are more tactile, Blues are clicky like a typewriter and Blacks are like Reds but require a bit more force push down. Those are just the most common ones, and afaik most gamers stick with Reds or Browns. A switch tester like this can help you decide, you can find them much cheaper on Aliexpress though.
How can I convert my WASD 6-Key Cherry MX Switch Tester into a macro keyboard?
How about a key tester? those aren't to overly expensive and could be extremely helpful... https://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4
I love my Logitech G402 mouse. I have fairly average hands, but I like that it's a bit narrower. It is a bit on the long side, but nothing too crazy.
For keyboards, as people mentioned, you'll want to figure out what kind of switches you want. For Cherry MX, Blue, red, and brown are the most common, but there are a whole load of other colors. Personally, I like browns because I like the tactile feedback (unlike reds), and they're fairly light and are quieter than blues. If you have a store that carries them nearby, definitely try them out. You can also get testers on amazon for about $15, depending on how many switches you want to try. This for example has the usual switches, as well as black, green, and clear, and comes with dampener rings to try as well. I've had a lot of Logitech peripherals over the years, so I ended up with the G710+ board, and I'm happy with it. It's pretty wide as it's a full board, plus has macro keys along one side, but I like having the option of using them :)
Monster stickers, which make my computer go faster. /s
Try out Greenshot. Free program that sits in your tray and can quickly capture regions for screenshots. Has some other neat options too.
Get a headphone stand. Banana stand works too (I heard there's always money in them?).
If you want neat shit to fidget with while waiting on loading screens (like me!) consider a Cherry MX Switch Tester. Literally thinking of buying one for myself while writing this out. Seems like a neat little thing.
http://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4
You want a switch tester, WASD makes a good Cherry one:
http://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464300365&sr=8-1&keywords=switch+tester
As for the rarer switch types like Topre and Zealios... yeah I don't know without spending too much money by buying the switches and something to mount them on. Sucks. Someone should make one massive switch tester and then pass it around r/mk
I can't help you with the keyboards themselves as you aren't in an area with stores, but; this might help you deciding which switches?
Here's an amazon link for the tester. I'm sure it can be found cheaper.
http://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462451781&sr=8-1&keywords=cherry+mx+tester
Well if price is no issue the very first thing I suggest you do is order a switch tester
This is so you can actually feel what each type of switches are like.
After that start looking at suggestions/keyboards that use the type of switches you like.
I personally really do like my K70
It's very solid and well built. Comfortable and you can use all kinds of lighting effects.
As for a mouse if you're into FPS games check out zowie products and pick one that matches your grip type well. Logitech and Razer also make good mice.
A naga like you mentioned in your other post would be a good mouse for the more casual games where you might want more buttons.
Get one of these If you don't have a place where you can demo them.
Start by choosing what kind of switches you want, and then find a keyboard that has those switches. I'd recommend grabbing one of these: https://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4 It's just a row of switches on a plate so that you can hear/feel each one before you commit to an entire keyboard.
For Cherry switches (which is what that WASD tester has), you'll probably want non-clicky, which means that anything other than green or blue is a good option. Clears and browns have a small bump that you can feel as you press the key, and then red and black are just linear switches that you have to bottom out to get them to activate. There's some difference on the amount of force required to press each key too (greens are "heavier" than blues, clears > brows, black > red), so take that into account.
When you land on a switch, WASD Keyboards has a decent selection with any of the aforementioned switches.
Personally, if I couldn't have clicky switches (I like blues and greens), I'd go with clears. They're about as silent as you can get, especially if you add the O rings on the stems (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HPQQLXM - basically, you lift off the key cap, put the o ring on the keycap stem, and then put the keycap back on. Repeat for all your keys. They prevent the keys from bottoming out and making a louder sound. Useful if you type
aggressivelywith purpose like I do)This might not be exactly what you're looking for, but there are things like this that will let you test the switches and see if you like the feel. Beyond that, do any friends have a mechanical keyboard?
I have browns, and I quite like them. I don't have a ton of experience on mech keyboards though (only other one was a model m which is quite different from browns.)
If you are unsure, there are test blocks you can get that have different types of switches on them.
Upvoted anyone that said to get a switch tester. At the bare minimum one with the basic cherry switches (red, blue, black, clear, green). Link. I was fortunate to mess with my cousin's Brown switches to immediately discover I hate browns.
Then you can get a hold of Zealios, Mod-x, Matias/Alps, etc. switches to test out once your mechanical keyboard obsession has taken root and grown.
That looks like an awesome board, looks like it even comes with mouse control on the keyboard which is always a neat thing to see. What cherry switches are you going to grab? You can always grab a switch tester and decide after
Although I think that'd be called a 60%, I think 40% don't have the top number row.
I had an MX Blue keyboard for about 3 months until I just couldn't stand it anymore so I bought the same one but with browns and I love it so much the perfect amount of resistance and noise.
Here's a link to the key tester I have.
There are others with more or less keys but this one is pretty good.
https://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499785215&sr=8-1&keywords=mx+switch+tester
It's all preference man. Browns are non-linear which is a preference for me in that I do a lot of typing and gaming. I'd order something like this before you purchase a new keyboard.
I certainly wish I had.
Before dropping a lot of money on a nice keyboard, get a sample set of switches to see what your preference is.
The link below includes a test set of 6 Different Cherry MX Switches: Cherry MX Green, Cherry MX Clear, Cherry MX Red, Cherry MX Black, Cherry MX Brown, and Cherry MX Blue.
http://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4
Corsair K70 RGB can be customized using their software to get a purple backlighting effect. It's a gaming keyboard though, so it's built like a tank and a little bulkier.
Ducky Shines can have purple led backlights. They are a little more elegant for an office as well.
Cherry MX Brown switches (no click when you type, just a bump) for an office, Cherry MX Blues (audible click sound) for home. IMO, Blues are more fun.
Cheaper switches more or less follow the same color code, though a switch tester could help you decide what you like http://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4/ref=sr_1_1?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1457221913&sr=1-1&keywords=switch+tester
Various switches have certain things they're inherently a little bit better for (red switches for gaming, blues for typing, etc.) but it's entirely down to personal preference. You can read up on the wiki about what each switch is like, but the best thing you can do is buy a cherry mx switch tester, that'll let you try out each of the most common switches so you can get an idea of what kind you like.
If you have any stores in the area you can go to that sell mechanicals though, the best thing is to go there and try a bunch out yourself.
Based on the fact that you both play Osu and have other people around you though, you probably won't want the exceptionally loud blue switches.
Before you buy any switches, I recommend you purchase a tester set or go to a PC store to try them out. Feeling it in person can be completely different from reading about them online and your keyboard can last ages so it's important to have switches you'll like.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-7700 3.6GHz Quad-Core Processor | $308.74 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | ASRock B250 Pro4 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $93.98 @ Newegg
Memory | Team Elite Plus 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $95.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Crucial MX300 275GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | $89.88 @ OutletPC
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $49.33 @ OutletPC
Video Card | MSI Radeon RX 480 8GB ARMOR 8G OC Video Card | $219.99 @ Amazon
Case | Fractal Design Define C ATX Mid Tower Case | $79.99 @ NCIX US
Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA G3 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $79.99 @ Jet
Wireless Network Adapter | Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I REV 4.2 PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter | $29.99 @ SuperBiiz
Monitor | LG Neo Blade III 24.0" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor | $249.00 @ B&H
Keyboard | Glorious PC Gaming Race Glorious Gaming Wired Gaming Keyboard | $99.99 @ Amazon
Mouse | Logitech G502 Wired Optical Mouse | $57.98 @ Amazon
Speakers | Logitech Z200 0W 2ch Speakers | $20.99 @ Best Buy
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $1475.84
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-02-10 20:52 EST-0500 |
Changes
For keyboards, it really comes down to personal preference with all the options available. See if you have a local shop that has some mechanical keyboards you can try (Best Buy might have some as well). If that isn't an option, buy a switch tester to try and get an idea what kind of feel you want on your keyboard.
I don't know enough to comment on the monitor.
If you're ever unsure about which switch you can always get a switch tester. There's this one which has 6 different Cherry switches to sample but no Topre. Cooler Master dropped one that included a Topre switch a few months ago on Massdrop, that's the one I got. Maybe they'll do it again
Yeah they sell them on Amazon for around $10-20. Worth it if you know you'll be interested in acquiring more/customizing.
Here's an example of a decent Switch Tester. Even comes with O-rings! You can try a few of them out on your board now to see if you like the dampening.
I noticed you spelled customization with British English, so here's one I found on Amazon UK.
Correct. Here is a link to one on amazon for $16.
https://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4
I have gone through about 4 keyboards just trying new switches. I later found these and for $16 it would have saved me some cash.
You can test it yourself with one of This from Amazon
there is a lot of options on eBay
This way you will fill most of the Cherry MX Switches.
Edit:
There is a lot other switches brands, But I have no experience with them
You should be asking over at /r/MechanicalKeyboards/, not /r/dota2.
The benefits of mechanical keyboards are mostly comfort and feel, it sounds like you're overestimating the usefulness of them. They will not make your clicking/searching 3 times more efficient. Unlike a gaming mouse, the benefits of a mechanical keyboard for gaming will be minimal at best.
If you're not sure what switches you want, something like this switch tester might be up your alley. If noise is an issue, Cherry MX Browns sound good for you. They're low stiffness and have a tactile bump but no click, which makes them good for typing.
Even non-clicky mechanical switches will always make noise when they bottom out, so you might want to invest in some O-Ring noise dampeners.
Honestly, just grab one of these to get a feel for how each switch feels / sounds, then order a keyboard online with your preferred switch type.
If you're looking for a step up from your average $15 Dell membrane board, you're going to be looking at a mechanical.
Cherry makes the reference quality switches, reds are smooth (gaming focused), browns have a tactile click (best of both worlds), blues have a tactile and audible click (loved by typists, hated by anyone who cares about noise).
You can get a sampler to see which you prefer before dropping some cash on a full keyboard.
I'm partial to the Corsair options, K60/K70/K90 depending on whether you want a tenkeyless, traditional, or extra macro buttons.
I switched to mechanical a few years back and won't go back to dome keys. I have a cherry blue at work and a brown at home. Both from Cooler Master. They are relatively cheap for what you get. The model is the Quick Fire Rapid. It says "Gaming Keyboard" but I use them mostly for programming and gaming.
If you are going to go mechanical, I'd recommend buying one of those tester boards with one of each switch on it like this
I found both of my keyboards on amazon. Each was less than $80 US.
I'm using Cherry MX browns right now. I was using a keyboard with blues for a while, but I wanted to go for something a bit quieter and with a lower actuation force (it's a small difference in force but I don't know, it definitely makes a difference for me).
Before I made the change I bought this so I could try the different kinds of Cherry switches. It was really helpful, I feel like there's really no substitute for feeling the differences between the switches yourself!
https://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4
I'd highly recommend you try a key switch tester. The switches are 100% subjective. For example I'd rather use a membrane free piece of junk than a linear cherry switch. I hate them so much. That's my opinion though and some people hate the greens I use.
https://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4
This is a great one with 6 of the most common key types.
Very nice build! I'll second the Samsung EVO SSDs--I see a lot of people recommend the Pro ones, and I don't quite understand why, they're pricier for not a lot of (consumer-level) performance increase. EVGA graphics cards are a bit pricier than their competitors, but the customer service is absolutely worth it.
I think you'll be very happy with the 970--I'm still running on a three-year-old 670 with a single 23.6" 1080p monitor, and it still holds 60+ FPS at Ultra in Mythic raiding.
I know little about the EVGA PSUs other than that I see them recommended a lot; another brand to look for is Seasonic, from whom all models are recommended. Avoid Corsair PSUs, especially those of the CX series--I've seen more than one fail after people insisted I use them for their builds.
Regarding a keyboard, I highly recommend mechanical switches--you may want to play around with them and see what you like. Amazon offers a sampler of the six most common switch types for $15, which is well worth it for the money you're about to spend on the keyboard itself. Here I do recommend (Corsair keyboards)[http://www.corsair.com/en-us/gaming-keyboards] over the Razer ones you'll see a lot--the build quality is significantly better and they're overall (I've found) far more comfortable to type on.
I agree wholeheartedly with the earlier commenter who suggested you take a look at (Logical Increments)[http://www.logicalincrements.com/#!/]. Their Parts Information (green bars below the big chart) has a lot of information about what the various parts do, what brands are good, and where you can skimp a little vs. what's really worth the money. They have a (page about World of Warcraft specifically)[http://www.logicalincrements.com/games/wow/] that discusses what components the game taxes more.
Good luck, OP!
Don't forget you're also able to buy Switch testers! They're about $20 - $25 online, and there's some for Cherries. They're usually a 6-Key Tester that come with some blank keycaps.
Tester from WASD on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4
8-Key Tester with O-Rings, also on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N6DXTW4/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2/181-2676872-3001900?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_r=1DW3DFXX6PNSM6XD039N&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_p=1944687462&pf_rd_i=B00AZQKCD4
Keyboard - If you can't test them for yourself, buy this and test them out. See which one you like the most.
5820K will absolutely outperform Skylake outside of your video game use. After DX12, it will even outperform the 6700K in video games. As of right now the performance difference in video games is fairly negligible though. Don't be turned off by the clock speed. You should be able to overclock past 4GHz with a somewhat high end CPU cooler.
That wifi adapter works very well.
2-3 fans are plenty. 1-2 in the front, 1 in the rear for exhaust. Don't really need more than that. Will just add noise and will only help temperatures by 2-3 degrees, and that is being generous. Literally a waste of money and time to install. I suggest you watch this video.
http://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4
Heyo. Another question here. I want to buy a new keyboard, but i'm not entirely sure about which switches I want. I'm planning on purchasing this: http://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4 . Can anyone tell me if this is worth the $16?
You need to know how to solder to customize shit? Do you mean just switching key caps or?
For point 2, I think you should try and go to a nerdy computer store (I don't know where you are but in Canada, I would say the difference between a regular store and a Nerdy store would be like Futureshop vs Canada Computers or NCIX) and play around with different keyboards or try out a cherry key tester. Basically a piece of plastic that has all the colors of the Cherry MX keys (red, blue, black, brown, green, and in some cases, but rarely, white). Figuring out what kind of keys you want is going to be one of the biggest issues for you. Personally I like blues because of how light they are, the tactile feel, and that they sound like a machine gun going off :D. Greens would be a close second but I know they have more weight to each press on them.
RGBs definitely make things more expensive but here are some other brands that do RGB.
Basically the idea is that if you mash 6 keys at the same time, all 6 will register. The keyboard won't have a brain fart and ignore it. But that's the max: 6 keys. Nkey roll over means you can mash as many keys as you can and all will register on time. I've always thought it would be pretty damn difficult to need to register more than 6 keys at once but it's considered a key feature for good keyboards to have. Or atleast that's the impression I get from when I researched all this stuff.
250USD? Oh man, that's a huge range! I suppose you'll can get some good stuff in Korea but you'll just have to make sure you can get English caps! Unless you're fluent in Keyboard.
Hmm..I don't know much about casing changing. Do you want to change the physical dimensions of the case or just the colors and such?
You can pick up a switch tester to try them out. It's not as good as being able to type on a keyboard but it's better than nothing. This one on Amazon has the major switches and two different kinds of o-rings you can try out. I bought one years ago and it definitely helped. Now I keep it on my desk and let others use it when I start telling them about my geek fascination.
I prefer reds with O-rings. I don't think it changes the feel of them as others have stated, but switch preference and feel is completely opinion based (I just wanted to give you another perspective). I use the 2mm o-rings (red) because I'm heavy handed and bottom out my keys. The o-rings bring the noise down and I prefer the reduced travel.
Depending on your location, stores might stock mechanical keyboards to try out. One thing you can do is order a switch tester and see which switch you like the most. Most good keyboards use genuine Cherry MX switches, and the ones that don't use fairly good copies of them (Razer for example have copies of the MX Blue and MX Brown with faster actuation). The rest of the keyboard then is aesthetics, cost, features, etc.
Where can I find a mechanical switch tester like this one that isn't prohibitively expensive?
Or, it's a bit of a long shot, but does anyone know of a brick and mortar store that carries mechanical keyboards in Montreal that isn't BestBuy? I've had nothing but terrible experiences there, and I would prefer not transiting 30+ minutes to face the same.
Could someone help me figure out what key cap material this switch tester has? I would love to buy a set to replace my current setup
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AZQKCD4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You could probably get away with giving him a key sampler like this WASD Keyboards one. Let him play around with that as a pre-present to get a feel for the switches then buy whatever he decides feels nice to him. As mentioned earlier, /r/mechanicalkeyboards is a great resource if you wanna look up what the switch properties are, but nothing really beats pressing down on one yourself.
Oh and trust all of us who have mech boards (Cherry MX Brown Logitech G710+ here), the clack will spoil most other keyboards forever.
I'm not too sure; but I would guess you could just use generic, like this. Or upgrade to LED turn signals and get one of these.
Just did some digging and here they are LED RELAY WITH LOUD TURN NOISE!!!!
7" LED Headlights Bulb with White Halo Angel Eye Ring DRL & Amber Turn Signal Lights for Jeep Wrangler JK LJ CJ Hummer H1 H2 https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00WM3WDXA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8YkuDb21TBP7J
These Headlights are surprisingly good for the price I Also Wired the Halo LED to a fuse that turned on when the Key is On/Running the Jeep. You'll have to adjust your headlights after but there a little t15 screw that allows you to do that (Left for lower, right for Higher, on my 2015 Sahara I can access this screw without taking the Grille off)
Pretty sure they are these.
It should be noted that the visibility is very directional with these compared to a traditional signal. So wrapping them around a fork tube has the advantage of presenting multiple viewing angles.
these are also in my amazon cart if the turnies in this guy cant be made visible somehow...
edit: fuck it i bought em.
7" LED Headlight For Harley... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018LXCS0C?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
If you have a 7 inch bucket this will fit on your bike. I put this on my 76 CB750 and it is amazing.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018LXCV4U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0VyJDbS9S9NHS
This headlight plugged right into my 03 Night Train without any modifications or extra parts being needed. Turn signals, on the other hand, require a load equalizer if you’re replacing all four with LEDs. I use two LEDs up front and everything works fine. Replacing all four with LED without adding an equalizer will make the bike act as if a bulb is burnt out (rapid flashing).
Motorcycle 5-3/4 5.75 LED Headlight for Harley Davidson 883,sportster,triple,low rider,wide glide Headlamp Projector Driving Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018LXCV4U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_86j7CbA5K4AXV
It‘s a 2000.
The fairing: https://www.amazon.ca/Krator-Quarter-Windshield-Davidson-1995-2005/dp/B06XZWJDXT/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=krator+quarter+fairing&qid=1557205615&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1
The headlight: https://www.amazon.ca/Motorcycle-Projector-Headlight-Headlamp-Driving/dp/B018LXCV4U/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmrnull_4?crid=3H9HI92SWNCV6&keywords=sunpie+daymaker&qid=1557205679&s=gateway&sprefix=sunpie+da&sr=8-4-fkmrnull
To install the fairing, you will need a docking hardware kit. Since I didn’t find any aftermarket kit with good reviews, I chose the genuine Harley kit:
P/N 58164-96A
I had to trim quite a bit of the fins behind the headlight to make it fit. I don’t know if my bike originally had that much wiring in there though.
I went with this one for $50 from Amazon. Side-by-side, the only difference I can make out with an HD Daymaker is the little bar and shield w/ a light in the bottom-center. I've been running it for a few months now and it's a great light. Also, with Prime shipping, I had it two days after placing the order.
Ok that makes sense. I was going to use something like this. Do you have a link to an H4 reflector?
And my only worry is the mounting; the daymaker replica just pops in and is held in by an outer ring (as its for a Harley). However I believe the CB light is held in by 3 bolts? So I may have to change to a Harley style housing?
> The lights that blockhead used i cant even find on revilla or j&p cycle.
He used an Amazon Chinese special. They're actually reasonably reliable, and there are plenty out there for Fat Bob as well. If it's Amazon, the returns policies are pretty good if it's a dud.
http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/DDMPlusMoto
Hardest to install, very very bright: The Ultra kit has a much larger, harder to hide ballast, but you can get extensions to help hide things. With the Octane, I've got a little mini fairing around the headlight that I can use to hide the extra stuff. You'll have to figure something else out.
Easy to install, very bright but not with great cutoff: https://www.cyclopsadventuresports.com/7000-Lumen-H4-LED-Headlight-Bulb_p_169.html
Somewhat harder to install than the LED bulb, but doesn't require any wiring know-how, and still bright but with better cutoff: https://www.amazon.com/Wisamic-Projection-Daymaker-Headlight-Motorcycles/dp/B01DZU30S0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504997083&sr=8-1&keywords=wisamic+5-3%2F4 in reviews and videos online (i.e. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zvk4vJesxKA, a vlogger in Tucson where we don't have much lighting at night), and you might try that.
Here u go
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DZU30S0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kmh6Ab1X3CZXS
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01DZU30S0/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502049442&sr=8-1-fkmr0&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=wisamic+5-3+4+5.75+round+led+projection+daymaker#
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DZU30S0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
i find it hard to believe a $400 headlight is necessary...
Wiipro Universal led Harley Davidson Light Strip Tail Brake Stop Turn Signal 32LED 8" Flexible led light for motorcycle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GJGCR9U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_K.j5xbR4YFQ8C
It's a cheap one, so I doubt it'll last but it looks good and works well. I just hooked the ground to a 9volt battery and mapped out the wiring, added bullet connections and hooked it up.
No worries!
License Plate Bracket - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B482VWN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 mounted on the side by the rear tire
Brake Light - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GJGCR9U/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AMLMN1HNSN4VN&psc=1 - super glued it under the seat where visible
I am speaking from personal experience on my own car and I'm not sure if it'll pertain at all to your situation so take it however you want.
I own a 2006 G35 with factory bose amp and if I did not use the correct interface kit and spliced the headunit cables directly to the factory audio interface, i would experience the same exact symptoms you did. This was because on my car the bose amp needed to havea the correct signal supplied to which was only possible with this interface kit: https://www.amazon.com/PAC-ROEM-NIS2-Interface-Integrate-Amplifiers/dp/B000CE9OY2
again this is for my car and I dont know if you have a factory amp or anything but maybe its something you can look into
I'm not a 100% sure... I bought all the parts and then had a shop install it...
I did purchase this so I was under the assumption that the Bose stuff was still being used: PAC ROEM-NIS2 System Interface Kit to Replace Factory Radio and ... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CE9OY2/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_t1_kewKBbKMG7D5B
The installer said he wasn't needed, but I didn't get it back, so I'm not sure if it was installed or if they just kept it.
Best Buy did not sell me that adapter, unfortunately.
While researching the LP6-4 I stumbled upon this: https://www.amazon.com/PAC-ROEM-NIS2-Interface-Integrate-Amplifiers/dp/B000CE9OY2
$20 cheaper and addresses the issue of connecting to Bose amps in a Nissan. Just ordered it - will update after I hook it up.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-Sealed-Lead-Acid-Car-Motorcycle-Battery-Charger-Rechargeable-Maintainer-YK-/152151069810?hash=item236ce91472:g:M6IAAOSw-KFXdlI6&item=152151069810&vxp=mtr
https://www.amazon.com/Sealed-Lead-Battery-Charger-D1724/dp/B001G8AIMU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467867243&sr=8-1&keywords=lead+acid+charger
you can go more expensive if you want a faster charge
You look to be on the right track. I just bought a fishfinder for my kayak.
This is the battery I bought
Along with this charger
I also picked up this waterproof box that I've seen a lot of people use to put the battery in. Do a google search for DIY fishfinder battery box.
Good luck, I'm on the east coast so I have to wait for it to warm up before I get everything on the yak
> Would a 6v 12ah battery with a LDO regulator work?
It should work. LDOs have a maximum efficiency of output_voltage / input_voltage. In this case, you'll only get 83% of the juice, at least 17% of it will be "wasted" in the LDO.
83% is pretty good, A buck-converter will be around 90% if you wanted to go there.
> How would I recharge it?
Depends on the chemistry. 6v 12aH sounds like lead-acid to me, so I'd bet you need something like this (I dunno if that's a good charger, just picked the first one on Amazon). 500mA is going to charge very slowly however... maybe find a better charger, lol.
> I wanted a very high capacity battery so it can withstand several charges but that can also be recharged, even if it takes a long time.
If you're going with Lead Acid chemistry, you'll want to make sure you get a deep-discharge model. Lead Acid batteries basically come in two flavors: shallow-discharge (like Car batteries), and deep-discharge / deep cycle.
Shallow Discharge need to stay at maximum-charge most of the time, otherwise their internals start to corrode. Deep Discharge still has the same problem, but there are more anti-corrosion measures. Even then, you really are only supposed to go down to 45% charge or so.
---------
Other battery chemistries (Lithium or NiMH) have their own issues. Do a little bit of study on the battery type you plan to use
It's a Piranhamax 150 I picked it up at Academy for $50 during a sale. I think it's regular $80, it works pretty good I have no complaints. I tried to mount the transducer to the hull but I kept kicking it loose so I just wrap the cord around the base of my mount (you can see in the picture) and drop the transducer in the water just below the hull of my yak.
It's hooked up to a 12v battery stored in a dry bag I bought on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/UPG-Security-12V-7-2Ah-Certified-Electronics/dp/B001MHSCWI/ref=sr_1_2?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1373486574&sr=1-2
Don't forget the charger either!: http://www.amazon.com/Sealed-Battery-Charger-UPG-D1724/dp/B001G8AIMU/ref=pd_bxgy_e_text_y
Seems like a car, marine, or deep cycle battery of 32 or more amp hours would do the trick. You'll have to evaluate your purchasing options, but I'd recommend getting sealed lead acid deep cycle batteries of some flavor.
This is a good deal:
http://www.amazon.com/UPG-D5722-Sealed-Battery-UB12350/dp/B001VV0318
My reasoning for that sizing is that 200w for an hour is only 16ah at 12v, so double that to prevent yourself from overdischarging the battery and you should be good.
If you want to double up on size, I'd recommend just buying a larger battery from the start and avoiding the complications that multiple batteries bring into the picture.
The solar panels seem to output around .9a, really depends on your insolation numbers but 5 hours of usable light gives you around 4.5ah per panel or perhaps around half an hour of TX time per day of charging.
What a fucking SCAM. A FIVE HUNDRED DOLLAR battery every five years? It's a stinking medium sized sealed lead acid (gel cell) battery. At most it costs $70 retail.
Philly did a test run on these, and they're an over priced hot mess. The city shouldn't spend a dime on this junk.
Also, do you think you could estimate how long this might last for me?
edit: whoops, assuming a 38wH battery like this one
http://www.amazon.com/UPG-D5722-Sealed-Battery-UB12350/dp/B001VV0318/ref=cm_cmu_pg__header
although that one is quite large size-wise, perhaps a more reasonable 10 wH
For generic signals you will need an adapter plate (for the front). They are like $5.
e.g.: http://www.amazon.com/Adapters-Signals-Suzuki-SV1000-Bandit/dp/B001MZVWKY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1393862757&sr=8-2&keywords=sv650+turn+signal+adapter
You may want to find some wire adapters, so you don't have to do any cutting or w/e. I cut mine but afterwards realized that was annoying because I prefer not to modify a vehicle's stock harness if possible.
http://www.amazon.com/Adapters-Signal-Suzuki-TL1000S-TL1000R/dp/B003UNAZX6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393862757&sr=8-1&keywords=sv650+turn+signal+adapter
Next: If you are using LED signals, you will need a flash fixer because otherwise they'll flash really fast. Most states it is 1 flash per second by law, see:
http://www.amazon.com/Signal-Flasher-2000-2010-TL1000R-Hayabusa/dp/B003UN4FXW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393862864&sr=8-1&keywords=sv650+turn+signal+flasher
Lastly, your lights:
http://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Indicators-Blinkers-Cruisers-Davidsons/dp/B003LTEC0G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393862886&sr=8-1&keywords=motorcycle+led+turn+signals (OR basically any aftermarket generic signals. Mine look similar to that in the front.)
http://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Motorbike-Signal-Indicators-Blinker/dp/B003LTEC0G/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1408934545&sr=8-5&keywords=LED+turn+signal
It's a simple power and ground. So all you do is cut the wire splice in the new wire onto the end. If you do this 4 total times you get to install any LED turn signal you like.
I have these on my street.http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003LTEC0G/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1457833730&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=arrow+led+turn+signal&dpPl=1&dpID=41xFmcD-RLL&ref=plSrch
I'm in Mexico, but this info LED bulbs model would be help anyway.
I replaced incandescent stock bulb indicators with that:
https://articulo.mercadolibre.com.mx/MLM-600774743-par-de-led-cree-1156-7506-direccional-cuartos-reversa-1000lm-_JM
It has a great lumen power more than stocks.
You must replace Flasher relay with this model, because LEDs bulbs blinks more faster with stock relay.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UN4FXW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
For tail stop brake bulb I replace it with that:
https://articulo.mercadolibre.com.mx/MLM-598842987-foco-de-stop-led-1157-para-motocicletas-1000-lumens-potentes-_JM
It has a great power and minor consume.
All bulbs sizes are compatible with stock ones.
Hope it help to you.
​
Don't do resistors, get a blinker relay.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003UN4FXW?pc_redir=1414050018&robot_redir=1
Something like this, but there may be a cheaper one out there.
A bad resistor job can melt stuff and $15 is essentially nothing compared to the headache of wiring in all that extra stuff.
It appears it does not,
Here's a link to the exact one https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003UN4FXW/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Nice, thanks for the update.
Did you install a relay? That may be what's causing the weird flashing. Without the relay for me was a solid light but I read somewhere that may have to do with the grounding but I'm not sure.
Just in case, here's a couple links: DIY on SVRiders.com and Plug and Play on Amazon.com. I used the Amazon one.
yeah that what i was going to reccommend. So if my math is correct (probably not). to run that stereo for 3 hours you would need a 9 amp batter at 12 volts. So to not destroy the battery lets round that up to 27-45 would be better. Then you would only need a small inverter and charger.
http://www.amazon.com/Whistler-Pro-200W-Watt-Power-Inverter/dp/B003R7CAX8
http://www.amazon.com/26-SEALED-VOLT-DEEP-RECHARGEABLE/dp/B007GCDDOA/ref=sr_1_8?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1426616369&sr=1-8&keywords=12+battery
http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0123-Junior-Charger/dp/B000CITK8S
~$100
200w of solar panels is actually quite a bit for most lithium batteries. You're probably better off (financially) in investing in just a single 100w panel and deep cycle lead acid battery like this one.
In fact, a single 100w panel can keep two of the listed batteries charged on most days with moderate sunshine, no sweat.
I know I need fuses but I don't know how big, and I know the battery is small but its what I can afford right now I'll get a bigger one later. If someone could just tell me what else I need and draw me a schematic, that would be a big help.
BESTEK 400W Power Inverter DC 12V to AC 110V Car Adapter with 5A 4 USB Charging Ports https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UFERZKO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_W1gqnxKEimW27
35AH 12V DC DEEPCYCLE SLA SOLAR ENERGY STORAGE BATTERY https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008D5YG3G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_RYM9yc9uIJBdu
Renogy 100 Watt 12 Volt Monocrystalline Solar Starter Kit with 20A Rover MPPT Charge Controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WGW485F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_EuTJwlC55xZgQ
Switches are the thing that tell when you press the key, certain switches do certain things. Blue ones tend to be loud but satisfying. Red ones are sort of in the middle between quiet and loud. This is a guide. If you are planning on spending a lot on a keyboard you can get a tester kit and test each switch to see which would suit you best. You could also make a trip out to best buy or your local tech store to try out the keyboard they have on display.
Large/Medium, for use at a desk. I haven't tested some different switches yet, is there anything I can buy that has a couple of switches I can test with?
I found this: https://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4 though I have a relative with a couple of Corsair keyboards or maybe some local stores have them on display.
I'm thinking about MX Cherry Brown switches.
I've only seen it once. I don't think all stores do it, sadly. There's always these, but it would be better if there was a way to rent it or something instead of buying it for 16 dollars.
I've own a few different mechanical keyboards. While I know the difference when gaming I don't notice a difference in using browns vs reds. I assume it because I'm more focus on gaming than typing by feel.
If you looking for suggestions on what keyboard to buy, it depends on your budget.
There are also "Cherry Switch Testers" that will let you get a feel of different keys. However, if you like Cherry Browns I would personally stick with browns for your first keyboard. When collecting keyboards starts becoming an addiction you'll branch out.
Maybe grab a switch tester before making an investment?
My Keyboard
You should try one out some time or better yet buy the sampler which has all the main different types which all feel different.
you should be a switch tester off of amazon for like $20
https://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474879535&sr=8-1&keywords=keyboard+switch+tester
https://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4
Turns out there are at least 6 different flavors of switches. Blue, Brown, Clear, Red, White, and Green.
It's worth testing them all out in person before blowing $100+ on a keyboard. Picking up one of these testers might be a good idea too: http://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4
>I want the feel of a mechanical
That's as varied as the colors in the RGB spectrum (well not quite, but you know what I'm getting at). I suggest you go to a retail shop that will let you test the different kinds of mechanical keyboards there are, or buy one of these mechanical switch testers so you can play around with the feeling of different switches (there are cheaper ones with less switches, but this one has a good representation of the Cherry MX line). Yes, any mechanical keyboard feels distinct from a membrane, but if you get one with MX Reds and find that it's too mushy for your liking, then that's a bit of a waste.
And, though it may rustle some jimmies here at r/mk, there are even some hybrids available. Essentially, they're membrane keyboards with mechanical components that mimic the feel of certain switches and even allow compatibility with MX keycaps. You get the advantages of membranes (quiet, cheap, waterproof) with some of the tactile feel of mechanicals. And generally they're backlit for your nighttime pleasure.
I've had one for a while, and I've checked the switches and model number several times just to make sure they're really "Cherry MX red". It sounds way more clicky than the mushy and easy-to-type-on models I see at stores. My issues with this keyboard:
All of this being said, it's still great to type on (especially when I do it enough to be used to it), and it's pretty well-rounded between gaming and typing (IMHO). If these issues weren't there, I'd probably be keeping it.
I'd also check out /r/MechanicalKeyboards and pick up a keycap tester with o-rings before buying a mechanical keyboard, especially if you've never owned one before!
no like cherry MX red switches are different than Cherry Blues I guess you misunderstood me. My question was whether buying one of each switch to test them out. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4 or
https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Mechanical-Keyboard-SGK-1010-BBCA1/dp/B01FXDV92G/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1469155362&sr=8-5&keywords=cherry+mx+testers
or
https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Mechanical-Keyboard-SGK-1010-BBCA1/dp/B01FXDV92G/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1469155362&sr=8-5&keywords=cherry+mx+testers
If I get one I will probably go for the 9.99 one cause chep = op since all cherry mx are the same brand anyways
Get one of those switch testboards to see what type of switches you prefer. Something like this (I just googled for the first one)
https://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4
I think the g413 is actually a pretty nice looking board. The problem is the keycaps. I've read multiple threads all over the net about how flimsy and shitty they feel.
This: https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/7f8q19/for_those_of_you_interested_in_getting_a_logitech/?ref=share&ref_source=link
was posted this past week about some dude even talking about the keycaps creating holes. Probably a freak thing but still. The difference is really buying a Dell or building your own pc. If you see all the options that are out there you will be floored.
Two things for you to try.
If you type for a living, you really should know what all the key caps feel like. This is the single most important tool you use daily.
I suggest buying this : https://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4
After you know which you prefer ( Browns and Blues are generally better for typing)
https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/wiki/buying_guide
I’ve never used the Microsoft ergonomic keyboard so I can’t really speak to the actuation force of their switches.
What I will recommend since you’re new to cherry switches is pick up a tester that lets you try out the different switch types. Here’s an example of a cherry tester on Amazon
That should help you get a sense of which switch types feel best to you. Even better would be to find a local mechanical keyboard meetup you can go to where you can try out different profiles and switch types on full keyboards
You can get a test device with a variety of switches.
Yes, it all comes down to the feel you like.
> I'd suggest heading to an electronics store and trying some demo units.
You can also order a switch tester from Amazon for about 16 bucks and some change:
https://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1509565909&sr=8-2
and
https://www.amazon.com/Akwox-Cherry-Switch-keyboard-Sampler/dp/B01GZHU1EG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1509565909&sr=8-3
Then I would just buy a switch tester. This WASD one should be fine.
If I where you I would get a keyswitch tester before dumping some cash into one, Mechanical keyboards can last a very, very, very long time, I ended up going with browns because Its blue switches (iconic clicky ones) without the click, and I am completely satisfied, my keyboard is the Magicforce 68-key backlit mechanical keyboard with cherry mx browns and I have no regrets.
Incase your wondering about the key switch tester, here's a link to the one I got
https://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467377443&sr=8-1&keywords=wasd+key+tester
WASD Keyboards
Amazon has them as well.
Keyboards and mice are very different in terms of feel and ergonomics across the board, but there really isn't a "wrong" choice when it comes to keyboards. All of them will work just fine. Some are just nicer/worse feeling or more sensitive. Just make sure your mouse has an optical or laser sensor. I wouldn't want you to accidentally end up with a trackball.
EDIT: If you want a cheap, safe option: hit up the Cooler Master Devastator Mouse/Keyboard Bundle. $30 bucks for a halfway decent gaming set that comes in Red or Blue LEDs. Not top of the line, but a good place to get your feet wet. Then for $16 you can grab up this MX Switch sampler. The sampler has 6 different mechanical keyboard switches built into it, which will let you actually feel the difference switch types and decide whether or not a more expensive mechanical keyboard is something you want, and what kind of switches you want in it.
Not a perfect option, but there are key switch testers available from quite a few places so you can feel what each type of switch is like.
https://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4/
Hap hap hello there! I am a bot and you linked to Amazon.
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Product 1: WASD 6-Key Cherry MX Switch Tester (B00AZQKCD4)
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Consider one of these!
https://www.amazon.ca/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4 nope I mean 50$ CDN Wich is only 10 dollars more expensive than the keyboard I want.
WASD 6-Key Cherry MX Switch Tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AZQKCD4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ikfzzbFACMZNX
Sadly it is not functional. It is called a wasd 6 key cherry mx switch tester. I did find some similiar options made by max keyboards, here
Here is a nice little article that explains some basics.
Also check out the Wiki as a lot of the questions you may have already have answers there.
Next you could pick up a cheap switch tester to decide which type may be right for you.
You could also get one of each of the Keychains to test. That way after you decide which you like you could have accessories.
Lit Version
This is a switch tester
There are different kinds out there depending on what switch you want to test or how much you want to pay.
Device used to test different switch types. Some examples:
http://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4?ie=UTF8&keywords=cherry%20switch%20tester&qid=1459360907&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1
http://www.amazon.com/Max-Keyboard-Keycap-Cherry-Sampler/dp/B00N6DXTW4?ie=UTF8&keywords=cherry%20switch%20tester&qid=1459360907&ref_=sr_1_3&sr=8-3
http://www.amazon.com/Max-Keyboard-Keycap-Cherry-Sampler/dp/B00E71W4O8?ie=UTF8&keywords=cherry%20switch%20tester&qid=1459360907&ref_=sr_1_2&sr=8-2
So reds and blues are very different from each other, and are extremely easy to press (I was pressing them without realizing a lot) I personally ended up loving mx blacks (the hardest to press). But of these choices it is almost impossible to figure out without trying them before deciding. If you cannot find a store or someone who has a mechanical keyboard to try them, I would recommend getting a switch test board like this
I believe they are closest to the Cherry MX Blues or Cherry MX Greens, based on the clicking sound.
You may want to look at getting one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1457108288&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=Cherry+MX+Key+tester
if you're looking at a Cherry board.
Hey everyone. I've been lurking this subreddit for about two months now, but finally decided to join when I saw that a meetup was happening literally 40 minutes from my house.
Anyway, I'm somewhat new to mechanical keyboards, though I have a general knowledge about them. I actually purchased two mechanical keyboards about a year ago from, come to find out after lurking the subreddit, a less-than-reputable company (hint: it rhymes with Boar's Hair ;) ).
Needless to say, I'm interested in upgrading my work and home keyboards in the coming months. I've currently own Cherry MX Red (home use) and Brown (work use) boards, and I actually have the Coolermaster and WASD switch testers. After doing some research, I'm looking at the KUL ES-87 (Clear), Leopold FC660C, WASD Code V2 88-Key (Clear), and Topre Realforce 87U (55g) as potential upgrades. Hopefully, I'll be able to try several of these boards out in person next weekend.
I'll definitely try to make it if I don't oversleep. I'll also try to bring a 6-pack of something for the community cooler.
Get something like this so you can test out different switches, and find one you like! The knowledge comes with tinkering.
Someone can probably recommend a better one. The WASD was the only one I ever owned.
Well, thats a beast of a rig!
With this you could cut a few corners... for example, are you planning on overclocking? if not, there is no need for a K processor, so you could get the 7600 (no k) and with no overclockeable cpu there is no need for a z170 motherboard... but the price difference may not be all that big.
You could get a cheaper PSU, but again, thats a really good and reliable one, the price difference might not be worth it if you are not on a very tight budget.
Essentially i think you have an excellent rig and the things you could "cheap out" on, might not be worth doing so, as in, if you have the extra $ better to have this than the slightly cheaper versions.
A thing i would add is a regular HDD at least 1tb, and use it as storage, if for any reason you need/want to format your pc, you could just wipe the SSD and all your downloaded games/pictures/videos/documents would be safe in the other drive. Only games with long loading times benefit from being installed on a SSD, so no need to have them all in one (i dont have any games on my SSD for example, only Windows and windows programs).
You should post your specs on /r/pcmasterrace with a title like "can someone check my build?" so you can get more opinions, i might not be seeing something!
-------------------------------------------------
What monitor do you have, or what resolution (1080p/1440p) and refresh rate (60hz/144hz) are you planning on gaming on?
If you are getting a new monitor, and keeping a AMD Gpu, consider one with FREESYNC (or one with Gsync if you change for a more powerful nvidia card, but expect a $200 price increase as Nvidia taxes manufacturers that use their tech) people say it makes a considerable difference... i havent had one so i couldnt really give my opinion on that.
Now for GPU, With the rx480 you are on the sweetspot for 1080p 60hz gaming.
the next step up would be an nvidia 1070 for either 1440p 60hz or 1080p 144hz
and the next one would be a 1080 for 1440p 144hz
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Also do you have mouse/keyboard??
Personally i love Logitech Mice, Want top of the line and arguably the best wired/wireless Mouse there is, but also quite pricy? go for the g900, or one of the most loved and better reviewed is the g502 just ask /r/G502MasterRace
i have a g700s that can be used wired or wireless but the battery life is crap. around 1 week, so i invested on rechargeable batteries, it can be charged via the cable, so not all that annoying, but the g600 battery lasts for around 6 months... (The g600 is wireless only though.) i went for the g700s because of button placements.
And for the keyboard... well there is no dispute, get a Mechanical Keyboard, only thing is that you might be overwhelmed because of the huge ammount of options... but basically get one with CHERRYMX switches, there are others switches, but these are the best there are, no contest. Just decide on the color of the switches, as each one has different characteristics, some are clicky some take more pressure etc... a tester
https://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4
would be useful to decide what kind you want, i went for the Cherry Mx Browns and i have to tell you, i couldnt be more satisfied, honestly one of the bestest buys ive ever made for my PC, Why do you think my answers are so lengthy? i look for excuses to write on mine, thats how satisfying it is. You might not feel this way the moment you get it, but after a month using it and you get accustomed to your Mech, and then type on a common membrane keyboard, youll ask yourself how the hell did you use that crap for so long.
/r/MechanicalKeyboards is where you should go ask as there are a huge amount of options to choose from.
Thats all i can think of right now!
> I'd recommend Cherry Reds
Browns are good too, but I prefer Reds as they feel better overall to me. I'd definitely reccommend trying them out for yourself to see what you like before buying. I know my local Best Buy had some keyboards out to try. If you can't do it that way, you could always buy something like this first:
https://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4
Better to get an aluminum switch tester like this one or a larger one with better switches like this one? I have a lot of switches already so I'm looking for a big tester with keycaps (preferably DSA)
Get a switch tester : WASD 6-Key Cherry MX Switch Tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AZQKCD4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_agdYBb48Z8A0Q ?
It's all personal preference, one isn't objectively better than another (if we're talking about CherryMX). I find a lot of people use Reds, but that also might be a result of keyboard manufactures making more Red switched keyboards then any other type. I have blues, a brown keyboard, and a red. I really like the blue. I'd recommend getting a sample switch from amazon, and trying them all out.
Don't buy one without trying the different switches.
The most common ones (blue, black, red, brown) are all different (linear, tactile clicky, tactile non clicky etc.) and honestly nothing compared to a regular rubber dome keyboard.
http://www.keyboardco.com/blog/index.php/2012/12/an-introduction-to-cherry-mx-mechanical-switches/
You should order a sampler or just go to some stores to try them out
https://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4
https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-keyboards-Switch-keyboard-Sampler/dp/B01G3BJOHO
Honestly the type of key matters way more than the manufacturer. Make sure they're Cherry MX switches; avoid Razer as they use proprietary Khalil switches that most people don't like as much and that I've heard wear out faster. I'd recommend trying all of the switches before you buy one, because everyone has a preferred style. I like reds and browns but blues are also popular. Best Buy sometimes has mech keyboards that you can try out and see which one you like best, otherwise get a switch tester.
OP, if you're interested in compairing what keys to test out without forking out a lot of money there are testers for around $15 that let you try out what switches you want before buying. its pretty handy I gotta admit.
I myself went from browns to greens, and I'm switching to blues pretty soon by grabbing an ak33 keyboard when I can afford it.
Buy a cheap switch tester off of amazon (I personally bought this one) and figure out what kind of switch you prefer the most.
If you get the chance, try a key switcher like this:
https://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4
You won't really appreciate the difference if you don't have a side by side comparison.
I think you're using the words "keys" and "switches" backward :) Keys are what your fingers touch when you type. Switches are what they connect to.
You might want to pick up an inexpensive switch tester so you can taste the rainbow before committing. I wish I'd done this before I bought my first, since I ended up finding out that blue switches were not to my taste and decided to return my first board as a result.
Since it sounds like clicky switches aren't an option, your Race will probably have silver, red, black, brown, or clear switches.
If you're looking for the quietest experience, you probably want a heavier switch that will make it easier to type without "bottoming out" as much (smacking the keys against the board). So black or clear switches might be your best bet. Blacks are linear, meaning smooth action from top to bottom so you don't feel exactly where the key activates. Clears are tactile, so they have a little bump in the action that lets you know when the key is activated before bottoming out.
If you're up to retraining how you type a little bit, the clear switches would most help you learn how to type with a minimum of bottoming-out. So that'd be my thought, but grab a switch tester and try them out first if you want to feel for yourself. Good luck!
Not sure how much you want to spend/how quick you're looking to get one, but it might be easier to buy one on Amazon or something.
https://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491330210&sr=8-1&keywords=mx+switch+tester
> Quickfire Rapid
this. I'm not a fan of led/ lighting on my peripherals. i think you can disable them here [unlike my current fucking mouse and keyboard] using the " Illumination Levels Profile Management".
Is the Quickfire Rapid the general go-too entry level recommended MK? Is that why you recommend it here. Then I'd go and buy a set of switches on top of this purchase?
> I would recommend that you try a keyboard with Cherry MX Brown, Red, Clear, or Black switches and use o-rings to see how that works for you.
I'm not sure how to go about this. I do not know anyone who owns a MK [I don't think I know anyone who knows that they exist]. I don't think there is a shop near me that sells any so I could demo them.
Is my only option buying a 15 pounds key tester to try them all out?
I notice in the picture of this one there is included o-rings. When you said I'd need to use some, I thought you meant I'd have to go to a plumbing store to get some tiny ones. When you buy a keyboard/ set-of-keys do they usually include the o-rings?
also, when searching on amazon for those testers I came across this multi-coloured abomination. the fuck is it? I've never seen a MK below 100 pounds before.
edit: i also just found this silent pc subreddit, /r/buildaquietpc/. very inactive though. I looked around spcr but could not find anything there. this keyboard claims to be quiet, but only boasts to be as quiet as a non-mechanical keyboard.
Mech keyboard pleb here, but /u/manofinterests is recommending you get one of these if you are seriously unsure which to get and you're willing to drop $20~ on this.
I was talking to an IT guy at work the other day about different cherry switches and 5 minutes later he walks up with one of these. That's what I call an IT dept.
Mechanical keyboards are a personal preference thing. You really should test at least half a dozen at computer stores or expo booths to get a feel for the type of switches you like. Alternately, you can buy a Cherry Switch Tester and then decide.
Cooler master is a solid choice in terms of build quality and price. They come in a full size keyboard (xt) and without a numeric pad (tkl) if that matters to you.
In terms of switches. it's purely preference, I would hit up a computer store to try out different switches if they have gaming keyboards available. MX reds, blues, and browns are all different typing experiences, there are other switches but these are the most common. You could also pickup a switch tester and try them before you invest in a board:
http://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4
There are switch testers you can buy
How accurate are these Switch Testers? I'm looking to upgrade from my Steelseries 6G keyboard from like 2011 and I know it has cherry MX Blacks. I think I want something like Brown or Red..I'd say 70% gaming 30% gen use is my split
Uh oh, I see I'm finding another subreddit to join... because I love typing.
Good comments from the other replies here. I love my K68 and my K63. I have one at home, where I work often typing up compliance letters, policy docs, emails and PowerPoints for my company. And never ending meeting notes. Loved my K68 so much at home I got the compact K63 for work.
That being said, be sure you get something you're happy with, even if you end up returning another keyboard. I love MX switches. You might want to check out Romer-G switches on Logitech, much newer design and I hear people rave about them. I'm sure someone will correct me: I think MX switches are from the '80s? I love them and type all day on my two Corsairs with reds, even though they are more "for gaming than typing." So, yes, I think you'll get used to them if you keep the K68 but if you have the option to find something you'll really love, that should be the keyboard you get. Sounds like you don't love the reds.
There's also stuff like this switch tester out there: Cherry MX Switch Tester on Amazon
Edit: Fixing link
I also found that my broad TWSBI had hard starts at first. I've now used it a lot (daily driver w/ my Nanami Seven Seas notebook) and it almost never dry starts now. I would imagine once you get your feed wet it'll write like a dream. How is Apache Sunset for daily use? I hear a lot that it comes out lighter in pictures than real life. Do you find it fairly legible? Tempted to get a sample - thanks!
And as /u/Ragnarok418 said, I saw the logo :) I bought a little Cooler Master doohikey that lets me test the switches, and the blue is definitely a heavy click. The sound is incredibly satisfying, indeed. I think I'll go brown, though, so I don't piss off my coworkers ;) But it's a great way to test switches without committing to an entire keyboard. Though I'd get this one if I could do it all again since it contains Cherry Clears vs. the Topre switch (which I found kinda gross and muddy).
Advice for first time MK buyer? i still have a few weeks before i fully decide/get the funds but so far im considering the ducky shine 5, coolermaster masterkeys pro l or a k series corsair..
k-series - quality issues, wary of "gaming" brands, and the keyboard i want that fulfills everything i want is ehh and over budget (k95 - nearly £200, budget is not strictly set but its about £120-150) while the other, lower cost k-series still seem to have quality issues and are missing various features (media/macro keys, etc). - and when compared to the below 2 keyboards (or at least the masterkeys) seems pretty inferior when quality is taken into account.
ducky shine 5 - seems really, really solid and is reasonably priced. but no software for rgb customization is kinda disappointing. although it does seem to have better LED's then others.
masterkeys pro l - seems similar to ducky in regards to quality, but has software. just in general seems really solid and pretty much ticks all my boxes.
features id like:
macro keys - not a huge dealbreaker, but i would like to have them. that being said, i have 12 atm (logitech g110) that are pretty much never used - but id like to use them. software for customizing keys never used as replacement for dedicated macros would also be acceptable
media keys - again, never used and a minor bonus and im not to fussed.
quality - id like to have the keyboard for a fair few years.
Full sized - im not completely against the idea of getting a smaller size, but it seems unnecessary for me.. full sized has been perfectly fine for me.
Customizability - for keycaps, etc.. I realize that the k-series use a non standard bottom row which makes replacing/getting new switches difficult..? atm this is a complete non factor and i have 0 plans to change anything.. but i guess standard and not some weird hard to find stuff would be good for future.
RGB - it seemed silly to me yesterday for this to be such an important thing but after seeing a razer chroma something in person.. I love it.
UK layout
If theres any other keyboards that i should consider looking at thats roughly my budget and fits the criteria, id really appreciate it - along with advice about the 3 mentioned boards - ATM im leaning towards the masterkeys.
Bonus question - i realize its a pretty personal thing, but it seems cherry MX reds are what id like the most..? I dont like the idea of blues potentially interfering with double tapping, but i have pretty much no experience. Does something like this really help in finding your preferred switch if its only 1 key? i tried typing on razor chroma (something) which i believe has razor greens and found it pretty lovely - at least compared to what i have now.
If you're not sure what switch you should get, I would recommend buying a switch tester. Switch testers have one of each type of switch, so you can try each one out without buying a new keyboard every time. This tester has everything you need, including keycaps and sound dampening o-rings, so you can find out what switch is right for you (and if you like o-rings or not).
I prefer brown switches for the feedback, if you want a clean press go with red switches. If you have a micro center by you or any high end PC parts store they usually have keyboards out to try. Fry's generally has testers too. You can also buy one of these to try at home for yourself Good luck!
As /u/Graspar said, you develop that muscle memory for exactly where the keyswitch will trigger. I only have to press my Cherry MX Red keys down a little past halfway before they trigger. If you add o-rings to the switches, then you can reduce both the noise (which, I have to admit, is satisfying) and the impact when you're typing hard enough to bottom out. You can also type very quietly with linear switches if you don't bottom out. However, I will note that this takes some getting used to. During the first month or two of typing on Reds, I got a LOT of nuisance triggers. But that goes away as your typing becomes a little more accurate. If you want to know what a mechanical keyboard that uses Cherry MX switches will feel like without either meeting someone with one or without dropping $100+ on a keyboard, you could order a sampler, which costs about $16 (note: call any local computer specialty stores in your area, particularly ones that build custom gaming PCs or have a focus on PC gaming - they might just have one already that you can play with!)
On top of the feeling of mechanical keyboards (I mean, honestly, it just feels nice to type on reds. I have a friend who looks at me funny for preferring to type on reds instead of browns, but to each their own. That being said, I even like the tactile feedback of my laptop keys, and I occasionally enjoy the "mushy" feel of rubber domes. They're just different, and a lot of people prefer them), many offer n-key rollover (or some other high number), meaning that you can press as many keys as you want to on the board and it will tell the computer that you're pressing every single one. Cheaper keyboards will tend to have limited rollover due to the way the keyboard matrix is laid out, whereas more expensive keyboards are more likely to be have the matrix laid out with diodes that allows for high rollover. I honestly don't know enough to explain how this works, so you'll have to either wait for someone more knowledgeable or go to Google. But because mechanical keyboards usually end up on the "more expensive" side, they tend to have that high rollover. Gamers often find high rollover desirable because it reduces the likelihood that an input will not be received because you're holding down a key.
You can get a sample of all the mx switches for $16 on amazon https://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4
It is entirely subjective, but purchasing yourself a switch tester will definitely help! Some examples:
Please note, I haven't purchased either of these items, so these may not be great examples, but I am just trying to help :)
You can always sell it on eBay once you've decided. http://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4
Blue is the loud clickity clackity switch. A lot of people like the noise and try to associate it with mechanical keyboards, but if you're like me and prefer a less noisy experience avoid them. When a friend of mine was still living at home, his mom made him get rid of his blue switch keyboard because it was so loud she couldn't sleep at night being in the next room. He also didn't have o-rings so she had to deal with the clicky noises and the clacking from bottoming out.
Browns are basically quieter versions of Blues. Great for typing without all the noise. Has a tactile bump for actuation without the click noise and great for typing. I use these for both gaming and typing and I love them.
Reds are linear switches. Little quieter than browns. Easier to bottom out if you don't have o-rings because there isn't a bump or click for actuation and they have little resistance. Typically used more for gaming, but doesn't mean you need them for gaming.
All three are commons choices and at the end of the day it completely comes down to preference. If you're unsure what switch you'd prefer, go to a computer store with some on display and try them out. If none are available, there are switch testers to you can order to test out the different choices.
http://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4 For example.
Also, http://www.amazon.com/Max-Keyboard-Keycap-Cherry-Sampler/dp/B00E71W4O8 cheaper option with less switch choices.
Browns with o-rings are my personal favorite. Brown for the bump without the click, and o-rings to avoid the clack. I also really love the way Black switches feel, but admittedly they're a bit too stiff for me to game with so I stick with brown.
http://www.keyboardco.com/blog/index.php/2012/12/an-introduction-to-cherry-mx-mechanical-switches/
This describes the different types of cherry switches fairly well, which are the most common brand you'll run into, it's really a matter of how "clicky" you want it to be, in other words, how much resistance/feel do you want, and how much noise do you want or are willing to tolerate.
If you don't mind investing a little more, you can get a switch sampler like this
http://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4
To see what kind of feel you like best
(And you could always return it for a refund after you decide...)
I had browns and blues and LOVED both of them. I like the clicky ones so I sold my keyboard with browns for the one with blues, but it's all personal preference. If you wanna test all the switches that are in mainstream Cherry MX keyboards you might wanna get this to see which is best for you
More switch options also. I'd recommend ordering a switch tester to find what you like. They are pretty cheap. http://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4
Have you tried all of the switches?
Ill list them off too make it easier
Cherry MX reds-40Gram actuation force,Linear no bump nor click
Cherry MX Blues-55 Grams actuation force,Tactile bump and click
Cherry MX browns-45 Grams Actuation force Tactile Bump,No click
Cherry MX Greens-80 Gram Actuation force,Clicky And Has a tactile bump,Basically Stiffer Blues
Cherry MX Blacks-60 Gram Actuation Force,Linear no tactile bump,Stiffer Red
Cherry MX Clears-55 Gram Actuation Force,Tactile Bump no click,Siffer Brown
That's all i can think of at the top of my head,There are switch tests http://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4
> For twenty bucks or less you can get a switch sampler from WASD on Amazon.
Sweet, this is great, thanks!!
For anyone interested, here is what he is talking about: Link - Amazon.com
> mici. În rest, au vreo 40 de dubioșenii la vedere, cu prețuri între 20 și 800 de lei, lucru irelevant având în vedere că toate
Salut, eu am un tester de la WASD de genul asta
Daca vrei neaparat sa cumperi, iti recomand sa te joci cu testerul inainte. Vezi care tip de switch preferi.
CM Storm Quickfire Rapid-I
The key is simply to get a keyboard you like. One that feels good to you. You will do better if you feel comfortable using it. Many people will suggest mechanical, but if you honestly prefer the feel of rubber dome, go for it. I WOULD suggest perhaps looking on amazon for a kit that gives you a sample feel of a bunch of different mechanical key switches, such as this. It will give you a better idea or what you like before you commit a large sum of money to a keyboard full of them.
One final thing; keep in mind the strength and weight of your fingers. If you have small skinny fingers, mx greens are not for you. They require the highest force of all the cherry-mx switches to actuate. They will tire out your fingers with extended use. Otherwise, its completely your opinion based on comfort.
yeah but you should do some research on the type of switches you want.
the cherry ones are probably the most common.
http://www.pcgamer.com/best-mechanical-switches-for-gaming/
you can get this or this to test them out before hand
http://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449361539&sr=8-1&keywords=mechanical+switch+tester
http://www.amazon.com/Max-Keyboard-Keycap-Cherry-Sampler/dp/B00E71W4O8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1449361539&sr=8-2&keywords=mechanical+switch+tester
yep, trying them out is always the best approach. if they dont have a good range of switches you can always buy a switch tester on amazon and put some o-rings on for yourself.
https://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1506370021&sr=8-1&keywords=keyboard+switch+tester
I use a Corsair K65 compact for gaming and a DAS Ultimate at work. Cherry MX are really good, but they aren't necessarily better than other switches. If you don't have an easy way to try different keyboards you can get a switch tester: https://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4
If you have expendable cash, I would suggest getting a switch tester like this one. You wont know what switch is best for you until you try it. Kailh tend to be considered a bit "low end", but I suppose any mechanical keyboard would be an upgrade from a membrane.
RGB is dependent on the user, but when you go mechanical you never go back. Invest in one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4
and determine your favorite type. For gamers, it's usually red or brown switches. Reds don't have a "bump", but just go straight down with no resistance. So I recommend browns.
The K70 has both red and brown options. They feel quite different, so don't just pick one randomly. If you have any questions, PM me or post to /r/mechanicalkeyboards where we'd be glad to help.
I went to a Microcenter recently and the only non-Corsair/Logitech/Razer boards they had were CoolerMaster, and they wouldn't allow me to open the box to test.
It's not a full keyboard, but OP could try something like a switch sampler to get an idea of how the switches feel.
Switch tester costs ~$85 :(
I'll have to make some phone calls and see if a local shop has a tester to use in store
if you just want to test out different switches there are things like
https://smile.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4?sa-no-redirect=1
I'm not sure there's a huge market for keyboards with different switch types on different keys (or if there is that the market would agree on what keys should get different keys).
There are also quite a few available on Amazon such as here or this one. The differences between different testers being the number of switches and switches on the board (if you can really call it a board).
Since I don't know which version your Razer BW is (2014 or <= 2013), you should try out what cherry MX switch is best for you by going to some shops that have mechanical keyboards or get this one.
After determining your switch type, go for the options below:
Sure, here's a good one from WASD.
No problem. before you order I would recomend getting a switch tester such as this so you can be positive about what switch you want.
Something like this might not be a bad idea, to get a feel for a couple different switch types.
Generally for 'gaming' Linear switches are most common, while for lots of typing, Tactile switches are fairly common.
I am new to this, but I will take a swing. You have to ask yourself what you want out of your layout. Can you do without a Tenkey pad? Can you do without your cursor arrows? Do you need Home/Ins/Del/etc. Can you do without function keys? Do you mind using layers for your numbers? If you can't do without all of those keys, then you will want a standard keyboard. For starters, you are probably looking at a Ducky for starters. If you can work without all but the cursor arrows, then look at a TKL (ten key less board). Vortex makes a good assortment of TKL and 60&#37; boards.
If as a gamer you want lighting, both Ducky and Vortex offer RGB versions and plain.
As for switch type, only you can tell. I can tell you that both MX Browns and Blues are clicky, but that is where my experience stops. They offer a switch tester where you can get all the switch types on one small board. https://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4 It will give you an idea of what each switch does, but not necessarily give you the experience.
As for cost, both Vortex and Ducky can be had for less than $150, you can also look at r/mechmarket there are a lot of trades going on you could pick something up and if you didn't like it just throw it back up for trade.
Also take a look at https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/wiki/redditnoob_tips
I hope this helps.
G502 for the mouse, as for keyboard, youre going to want to start getting into the mechanical keyboard game.. And there are many types of switches with different feels to them. Get yourself a switch tester and try out the different kinds of keys and see which one you like the feel of the best.. My personal favorite are browns, but it varies widely from person to person. After that, check out the folks over at /r/mechanicalkeyboards they are pretty helpful and super knowledgeable on the topic.
I ordered the wasd switch tester https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AZQKCD4/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1473073811&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=SX200_QL40&amp;keywords=wasd+keyboard&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41bdGDPmEPL&amp;ref=plSrch.
I realize it may be slightly different from Das keyboard feel (and I prefer look of Das). But at least this will give me idea of differences between switch feels.
If you want more feedback, then mechanical keyboards are certainly worth a go. The ones I suggested (linears) provide some feedback, and you can get tactile switches (e.g. mx brown) which have a tactile bump right when the key is registered as well. There are also clicky switches, which have a tactile bump and an audible click at the point of actuation as well. It's all very fun and exciting, so definitely try out a cheap mechanical board and see if you like it, or get a key tester (Amazon US link here) to see the difference between different switches. I also wrote this guide to different switches which might be helpful.
You bet. If you can't find anywhere to try them, you can order one of these little "samplers". (If you're anywhere near Seattle, let me know and you can try mine.)
Here ya go
You could get something like this, https://amzn.com/B00AZQKCD4, to see which switches suit you
I'd get some taps to splice into your existing wires. One of the photos has the color code on it for the wiring. Looks to be red ground, white running, black brake, yellow left turn and green right turn. I wouldn't waste time with adding resistors. If you are keeping your stock lights also, you shouldn't encounter an issue, but you can always replace your mechanical relay with an electrical one. Just find out if yours is two or three pin and get a replacement like this.
Yeah, I have the Sunpie head lights and fogs. There have been some mixed reviews on them, but they have been really good so far over the last month, requires some splicing, and the high beams flicker a bit, but overall they've been great for the price.
SUNPIE LED Headlights Bulb with Halo Angel Eye Ring & DRL & Turn Signal Lights for Jeep Wrangler JK LJ CJ Hummer H1 H2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WM3WDXA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Seu6xb5FJ43ZW
Then get these for 120 bucks.
https://www.amazon.com/SUNPIE-LED-Headlights-Jeep-Wrangler/dp/B00WM3WDXA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1486492412&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=halo+led+wrangler
No, just tapped into the DRL and Blinker wiring (theirs YT videos) The lights are Sunpie 7"Round Halo for Jeep JK (H3 connector). You will need to find a way to mount them. I removed the headlight base and used a new mount (ordered from Amazon) for the new lights. You have alot of options for headlights, I just bought these because they were reasonably priced
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WM3WDXA/ref=sspa_mw_detail_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFRWFMyTUtRQzBVQTcmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA1MTg1MDAyOUxYWDQxV1RLV0syJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA1NDMyNjgzSDA4WjZQNEdPNTdXJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfcGhvbmVfZGV0YWlsJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0
https://www.amazon.com/Mounting-Wrangler-2007-2017-Unlimited-Headlights/dp/B07GNZ7XBL
https://www.amazon.com/SUNPIE-LED-Headlights-Jeep-Wrangler/dp/B00WM3WDXA
These look very similar
I have these ones (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WM3WDXA/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) and they're great.
Super bright and clear as day. Everyone that rides with me is always impressed.
http://imgur.com/GGM7nhh
I installed these, was a snap - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WM3WDXA/
Here you go.
It was a bit more than $8 actually.
SECTION | CONTENT
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Title | FZ-07 Progress Report
Description | The Build Parts so far, TwoBros "The Garden Snake" edition Exhaust - [email protected] Stage Two Filter and Lid Kit, https://www.e-dnafilters.com/product/Stage-2-and-3-Applications/Yamaha/DNA-1092/YMA-MT07/Yamaha-MT-07-(13-15)-DNA-Air-Box-Cover-and-Filter-TC-Y7N14-S2 ECU Flash Tune - http://www.veloxracing.com/ Core Moto brake lines - http://amzn.to/2iYwoR2 LED Relay - http://amzn.to/2iq0Mnj Pro Taper Carmichael Bars - http://amzn.to/2iGkCyz Pro Taper Pillow Top MX Grips - http://amzn.to/2j6VDFB Shorty CNC Levers - http://amzn.to/2iGe6It R6 Throttle Tube - http://amzn.to/2iGbJFq RAM Mounts - http://amzn.to/2hPo0aY Phone Mount - http://amzn.to/2iG7slt GoPro Mount - http://amzn.to/2j2EGrz Bar End Mirrors - http://amzn.to/2iGdouu Bar End Mount Kit for MX Bars - http://amzn.to/2hQqdRT Washers Needed for Bar Mount - https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/RFD8071034B/RFD8071034B The Proton 500 blinkers SAVE 15%-http://hightechspeed.refr.cc/bullwacky Motodynamic Fender Eliminator - http://amzn.to/2iP0L0A Motodynamic Integrated Tail Light - http://amzn.to/2ircKkB Mini Fly / Windscreen (Its only $30!) http://amzn.to/2iz4Q61 Merch http://bit.ly/1Rxcefz Shirts https://teespring.com/stores/thegardensnake Support my Patreon here, https://www.patreon.com/TheGardenSnake TheGardenSnakes Second Channel, https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCjDp-bUClKTq8lzoC18iJLw TheGardenSnake on Instagram http://instagram.com/jake_thegardensnake TheGardenSnake on FaceBook http://www.facebook.com/TheGardenSnake TheGardenSnake on Twitter https://twitter.com/#!/thegardensnake and only if you want to, https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr?cmd=_s-xclick&amp;hosted_button_id=DSV4PQ4B2L28E Business inquiries, [email protected] Cold Funk - Funkorama by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/) Source: http://incompetech.com/music/royalty-free/index.html?isrc=USUAN1100499 Artist: http://incompetech.com/
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Went with the simple TST industries, not to sure if i'll like the only top bolt mounts but we will see.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DAMH7ZA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Also did the MD integrated tail light and i love that.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015NN3YUG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I use sunpie , ive had it a few months and it works really well. Guys over on the harley sub love it. Also it was less than $60
I got the one made by Sunpie on Amazon. Love it. 5-3/4 5.75 Daymaker LED Headlight for Harley Davidson Motorcycle Headlamp Projector Driving Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018LXCV4U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Uq75yb2FQGAQV
I purchased this one: 5-3/4 5.75 Daymaker LED Headlight for Harley Davidson 883,sportster,triple,low rider,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018LXCV4U/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apip_lr61rViUiOus6
I got this LED headlight and the improvement was outstanding. My dad said he didn't even need to look in the mirror when I was following him because he could clearly see the light on the road. The next day he was looking online for LED headlights for his bike.
Motorcycle 5-3/4 5.75 LED Headlight for Harley Davidson 883,sportster,triple,low rider,wide glide Headlamp Projector Driving Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018LXCV4U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_sy4KDbET93HQV
No doubt. When you decide to, this light upgrade is a must. The stock headlight could probably be outperformed by my iPhone’s flashlight lol.
I can’t speak for clutch but for headlights and turn signals all I can say is Amazon. I got this LED Headlight:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B018LXCV4U?psc=1&amp;ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
And these front signals:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07F1G3P1G?psc=1&amp;ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
I have no complaints and they saved me probably $400 if I bought them from the dealership.
Read the reviews for reassurance if you’d like but they are a must have!
Hope this helps.
Which light??? Sorry I was on business. If you're talking about the headlight I got it as a steal from amazon. Wisamic 5-3/4" 5.75" Round LED Projection Daymaker Headlight for Harley Davidson Motorcycles Black 9 pcs Bulb https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DZU30S0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7dOqzbHE35FWS
Thanks man!
The headlight is one of the cheap amazon ones. So far no issues.
Wisamic 5-3/4" 5.75" LED Projection Daymaker Headlight for Harley-Davidson Motorcycles 9 pcs Bulb-Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DZU30S0?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
I'm thinking something similar to this if anyone has tried it
Im fine cutting wires and splicing.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01DZU30S0?psc=1&amp;ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title
This is the one I bought 2 years ago. It has been running great! Plus, it shouldn't have any issues with any sporty, I put this on my 2014 iron, and then later my 04 roadster lol
Now that I look at that page again though, theres one with a halo, I might purchase it lol
I got a daymaker rippoff from Amazon and it works great. 50.00.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01DZU30S0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492538569&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=daymaker+headlight
https://www.amazon.com/Wiipro-Universal-Davidson-Flexible-motorcycle/dp/B01GJGCR9U/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=led+tail+lights+motorcycle&qid=1567195964&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzSDZYTVo5MloyU0VUJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMTcxMTM2VEpNQTRPUVJTM0xaJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA3MTY5NTkzNzc3SDNWNUFIVVoxJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
I don’t like too many things sticking out of my Spider either..
I’ve been thinking...
Wouldn’t it be nice to have a deck like this one which could blink yellow, independently, on each side (left/right)? This way, we’d be seen from pretty much all angles.
Maybe something like this could be adapted somewhere on the sides of the deck? What do you think? :)
Can anyone speak to fender eliminator kits such as these?
https://www.amazon.com/Honda-Rebel-integrated-fender-eliminator/dp/B07635YKLN
Also considering just removing the fender and trying to wire a strip like this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GJGCR9U/ref=psdc_8323687011_t2_B07635YKLN
I like the minimalist look but don't want to sacrifice visibility.
Thanks for the help!
it's an incredible tail light for $10. Brighter than the original by far. Here's a link: https://www.amazon.com/Wiipro-Universal-Davidson-Flexible-motorcycle/dp/B01GJGCR9U/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499461785&amp;sr=8-8&amp;keywords=brake+light+motorcycle
Wiipro Universal led Harley Davidson Light Strip Tail Brake Stop Turn Signal 32LED 8" Flexible led light for motorcycle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GJGCR9U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ssWBzbZM1208N
Something like this could possibly work. I had a similar setup on a previous bobber.
This is the most popular solar set-up. Then a battery like this. You may need an inverter, too, but that depends on your needs.
Water depends entirely on you. You can get five gallon jugs that re-fill at Home Depot for $7, for example. A lot of people get water for free at gas stations or parks.
It seems like you're just getting started thinking about this. I recommend the FAQ. There's lot of good stuff in there!
No problem, I wish you luck with your project!
Depth of discharge is definitely important for battery longevity. The more 'shallow' your discharge cycles are with any sort of Lead Acid chemistry, the longer the battery will usually live. :)
Also, if you're going to go over ~300-400 Ah of battery storage (rated) consider making the change to a 24 volt system before you start ordering components. The reason for this is to ensure you don't end up using cables the size of your arms to carry the current you need. When you double the nominal battery bank voltage, you half the current being carried by your conductors in that circuit, thus reducing the needed wire size. It doesn't sound like you'll need to go with a 24 volt system though, as you won't really need that much storage, or that much solar.
&#x200B;
Remember:
Voltage x Amps = Power in Watts
Power in Watts x Hours = Energy in Watt-hours
&#x200B;
>What do you think of the Optima BlueTop? They are more money than most AGMs, but they claim superior number of recharges. I can get the 66Ah at Costco for $299CAD. But I'd probably need at least 3 of these.
Try something like this instead:
https://www.trojanbattery.com/solar-agm-2/
Avoid 'marine/starter' batteries like they tend to sell at Costco and auto parts stores. (Optima BlueTop included.) They're designed to be a hybrid of a 'starter battery' (for a motor) and a 'deep cycle' battery for running electrical equipment. They will not live as long as something that is designed purely for deep cycling like the Trojan Solar AGM's, or even these Renogy ones: https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Battery-Marine-Off-grid-Applications/dp/B075RFXHYK/
EDIT:
Renogy also makes a gel-cel equivalent of that one, here:
https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-100Ah-Rechargeable-Cycle-Battery/dp/B01KN6QUW2/
EDIT 2:
By the way, there are some differences between Gel-cel lead acid and AGM lead acid batteries, but they are both non-spillable (Sealed) battery types, that come in 'true deep cycle' varieties. :)
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Easy way to tell if it's a 'hybrid' battery type (designed for use where it will start an engine at times), is to check if it has those 'automotive style' post terminals. The ones that you find on your car battery. 'Marine' batteries that have both automotive and screw termainls, like those BlueTops, are not quite ideal for use in a solar application.
It is unlikely that you will be able to power a heater with solar power; heaters simply require too much electricity. A sleeping bag rated for the temperature you will experience is probably the most effective thing for you.
A quick look at Amazon shows the Nintendo switch has a wall outlet power adapter that outputs 5v at 1.5a. Assuming that is correct, you can charge your electrical devices from a wall outlet at McDonalds or Starbucks, or from a cigarette lighter adapter in your car. If you won't be in cities or won't be driving daily, a small solar panel and battery (I like that battery for its dual inputs, which makes it charge twice as fast) will likely be sufficient. Price for solar panel and battery about $100.
If you need more electrical power, put a roof rack on your car, then buy a battery and a 100-watt kit from Renogy (the kit includes mounting hardware, cables, a solar controller and instructions to wire everything together). Price for solar panel kit and battery about $400.
Thank you so much for the information, I'll have to measure it out when i get home.I had intended to start with 1 and work my way up to 4 if it worked well.
So Batteries, probably the most technical portion of this part. So looking at [this] (https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Battery-Marine-Off-grid-Applications/dp/B075RFXHYK) There is a lot of words in here that are challenging me. Whats the best way to assess what would actually be needed for the job? Can you chain multiple if you exceed capacity on 1 battery?I should take an electrical class...
Thanks, yeah it’s a super cheap light on Amazon too: https://www.amazon.com/Headlight-Housing-Davidson-Motorcycle-Kawasaki/dp/B071D3TPQ5
I’m using just the light, no metal can, and making a custom dash and light can.
Ok, so I need some help finding a 7-inch headlight bucket that I can put a led light into but the thing is it has to have a lot of junk in the trunk because of the number of wires I have to shove in so it needs a hole in the back of it too.
This is what I'm currently using. If I can get something like this but 7in it would be perfect. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071D3TPQ5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Depth of discharge.
I'm not sure how you get triple the cost for lithium, even if you can only buy from Amazon and only count up front cost. You're looking at 4x$170 lead batteries or 2x $500 lithium ones (in both cases the cheapest ones Amazon sells), which means $680 vs $1000. For triple the cost ($2040) you could buy name brand lithium instead (Battle Born or Renogy). And of course you're looking at 3000-5000 cycles to 90% DoD from the lithium rather than 300-500 to 50%... that extra zero really does affect the cost per cycle.
Glad the info helped! Let's say you're using 100 watts (Xbox with TV). It sounds like you may be using only 90 watts, but we want to allow for electrical inefficiencies so we add 10% to your usage, so in this case that's 99 watts. Let's say 100 watts for simplicity and for a little extra margin.
The GoalZero website says their battery has 280.8 amp hours (Ah). You don't want to discharge a lithium battery more than 90%, so your real capacity is 252.7 Ah (280.8 * 0.9). Your system uses 8.34 amps (100 watts / 12 volts = 8.34 amps). To find out how many hours you can power your system on this, divide your Ah by amps, so 252.7Ah / 8.34A = 30.3 hours...which means your math is correct :) Keep in mind that it will take around 9 hours to recharge this battery.
A little more math: You can get a 100Ah lithium battery for $950, a 600 watt pure sine inverter for $220, and a lithium battery charger for $175. Throw in $20 for cabling and you're up to $1,365, so let's say $1,400 if there's any extra shipping. That's less than half the cost of the GoalZero and you'd get 10.8 hours of play from it, and recharge time would be 3.3 hours.
If you get two batteries, your numbers would be $2,315, 21.6 hours of use, with a recharge time of 6.6 hours.
I'm not saying you shouldn't get the GoalZero since it may be the perfect solution for your needs. Just trying to show you other possible choices.
Be CAREFUL with Vruzend. Fuse every cell. I destroyed half my garage because I thought my tiny 36 cell packs (4s6p) was safe only being charged to 14v since it should have been safe up to 16.8v. Only takes one bad cell to screw up your life. I've decided it is no longer worth the effort to harvest 18650 batteries. The Renogy 100ah 12v ( https://amzn.to/2NO883u ) for $214 is rated for 1100 cycles at 50% depth of discharge. There's the LifePo4 version for $800 which is rated at 7000 cycles but I ain't made of that kind of money.
I'm going to have to weigh my options on that one. It would be nice to make my own connections since this is a DIY project, but want to keep it cheap as well.
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>How are you charging the 'house' battery?
I'll have to look into that. I'm not sure if the alternator charges that battery or not, but it can be charged from the generator. I won't be using either of those options if possible, my plan is to recharge it using the 100 watt portable panel since it'll mainly be used for the water pump, wifi amplifier, and lp/smoke alarms.
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>What's the gel-cell's model number and such?
It's a renogy 100aH 12v battery: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KN6QUW2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
from the product description:
Specifications:
Cells Per Unit: 6
Voltage Per Unit: 12
Capacity: 100Ah 20hr-rate to 1.75V per cell 25℃
Weight: Approx. 67 lbs
Max. Discharge Current: 1000 A (5 sec)
Normal Operating Temperature Range:25°C±5℃
Float charging Voltage: 13.6 to 13.8 VDC/unit Average at 25℃
Recommended Maximum Charging Current: 20A
Container Material: A.B.S. UL94-HB, UL94-V0 Optional
Specification: 12.8X6.8X8.8 In.
&#x200B;
>Also, hooking up the solar to your house battery system is pretty easy, especially if it's 12 volts nominal. Depending on specifics there are better and worse ways to do it, but in theory it's very simple. :)
The solar battery bank will be in the storage next to the under the stairs battery, so it won't be too far. Another reason I didn't want to do this is the RV only has 1 12v outlet in the front, so everything i use will be going off the inverter anyway, and I have the 100 watt portable panel to charge the house battery for those small electrical needs mentioned above
Yeah, just got my sampler: http://www.amazon.com/WASD-6-Key-Cherry-Switch-Tester/dp/B00AZQKCD4
Browns are terrible. Long live clears.