Best powersports engine parts according to redditors

They are piston ring pliers.

50's Kid (Super Awesome): https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCml-eeSLJZ38Q5_sUnUXrZw

Shop Life TV (Pretty effen gewd): https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5jnm5CEnLSEmoQ-ktgAj6g

Well the people in the forums are the people with the problems, but that's not to say they aren't the most knowledgeable group of people about the e46. But the youngest E46 is 12 years old, so unless it's a garage kept car from an old couple, it'll have to be fixed a little soon into your ownership. You'll be advised to do $300,000 in preventative maintenance when on the forums, don't. I love my car but I only paid $3,000 for mine had I done everything the forum members suggested I would've spent another $3,000 in repairs. Keep up on your plugs and coils. If I'm not mistaken the 328s and 325s have transmissions made by GM and no one cares for them, so wait for a 330. I'm sure I'll get corrected on the transmissions but whatevs enjoy the plethora of links.

A Bosche fuel pump from Amazon is $130 and the gasket is $20.

Pump:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BZJE9C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Gasket:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0054JTTFO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The exact fuel filter $60:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006Q7HDII/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

OEM plugs are $35, again Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DERDU44/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

DISA rebuild kit is $80 (DO THIS ONE ASAP, It's the one thing I always tell people, it'll prevent a steel pin from falling into a cylinder and ruining your engine) I bought mine from G.A.S. German Auto Sport I think. I love their warranty, if my DISA fails they'll give me that $80 towards one of their DISA units, like $400

Coolant system:
Expansion tank - $30 (Amazon) - known as the most likely failure

Radiator -$150 (AutoZone)
Lower radiator hose - $30 (Advance)

Temp sensor in lower hose - $8 (Amazon)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FU9H9PO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Upper radiator hose - $30 (AutoZone)
Water pump - $55 (AutoZone)
Thermostat - $55 (AutoZone)

Transmission intercooler thermostat - $16 (Amazon)

https://www.amazon.com/Orion-Cooler-Expansion-Thermostat-17111437362/dp/B074K8SXL8/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1522204403&sr=1-2-fkmr1&keywords=e46+transmission+intercooler+thermostat

I was able to remove the radiator without being about to tell the water pump had an issue. Installed the new radiator, gave my fan a wiggle and then knew I had replaced two hoses, an expansion tank, and a radiator for nothing. Cost: confidence as myself as a mechanic and an engineer and $295 (didn't replace the temp sensor or thermostat, and I was lucky enough to reuse the transmission intercooler thermostat!!!!!!11!1!!11!!)


I paid $90 for a pack of coils 40,000 miles ago. The entire CCV is $55, you guessed it, Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/11617501566-11611432559-11617504535-11157532649-11617504536/dp/B00I3RBDDK/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1522204499&sr=1-2&keywords=e46+CCV


One pair of HID headlights - $28
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GRTEMCO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1



For two years of ownership starting at 153,000 miles and currently at 197,000, 8 months of driving 110 miles a day, five days a week, and now I drive 800 miles a week.

The hardest on this list are the fuel filter (unless you have access to a lift, I hate putting my car on stands) and the CCV, to replace the CCV you have to remove the intake manifold.

The DISA takes 10 minutes if you take the time to drink a beer MAKE SURE YOU BUY A KIT THAT INCLUDES A NEW GASKET

If you have problems head to here or the forums, I feel like I've written a book, but I spent forever tracking a couple issues only to find out it was the plugs. Check the plugs first.




Essential tools:

OBD2 WIFI adapter: $20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W0SDLRY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Regular socket set: $73

https://www.amazon.com/Kobalt-64-piece-Standard-metric-Mechanics/dp/B00GR8WEDU/ref=sr_1_24?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1522203667&sr=1-24&keywords=Kobalt+Socket+set

(5mm to 16mm or so, and includes bits you'll really want a wide flathead, Torx 25 or 30 for the cabin air filter mounting screws, and Philips, double check what this one includes)


Torque wrench: $35
https://www.amazon.com/Tacklife-Calibrated-13-6-108-5Nm-Certification-Extension/dp/B073VLDLQR/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1522203362&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=torque+wrench&psc=1


6”-8" Socket extension: $10
https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-4966-8-Inch-Extension-3-Piece/dp/B000NW85F2/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1522203436&sr=1-6&keywords=8%22+socket+extension


Fan removal tool set - $20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MTV8EO4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc150=1


Including all tools that's $850 Hope this helps, the car is really easy to work on, I enjoy driving it. One last piece of advice never short trip your car, especially in cold weather, you could fill the CCV with mayo and it could lead to hydrolocking/self destruction of the engine. If you live South of Pennsylvania you shouldn't have to worry too much, some people put an ounce or so of Seafoam into the CCV a month. You don't need to follow these links to the tee but they should help.

Check Trademe.

Buy something Japanese if you want it to be reliable and not rust to pieces but the Chinese and Korean ones will get you from A to B for a limited amount of time (they'll last longer if you keep it in a garage) for a relatively small amount of money. A Yamaha Jog is one of the faster 49cc ones (one of the very few that can actually make it to 60KM/H). Buy a Piaggio, Vespa or Peugeot if you're bourgeois.

Make sure you get a nice full face helmet that fits you well and some gear. Cars don't discriminate between hitting people in gear and those that are not; better to leave the altercation with your face and skin than without. Definitely recommend getting a helmet with an internal sunvisor. For one, they make you look like robocop, but they're also invaluable for commutes when the sun is low in the sky.

4 stroke engines like those in the Honda Today are reliable and run a long time but they're slow as fuck and no fun at all (seriously, can barely make it to road speeds, which is both dangerous and a liability to other motorists).

2 stroke engines are faster, but they require topping up the oil as you top up the petrol and they also require the top end to be rebuilt periodically. They will eventually seize and ideally you will rebuild it before it seizes. If you buy one that is reaching 40,000KMs, plan on rebuilding it. It's not as difficult as it sounds. You just get a kit like this (which is one for aforementioned Yamaha Jog) and you take some parts off and replace them; or just don't get one with that much mileage. They also smell delicious; it will grow on you.

We’ve done a couple of these, and believe it or not, they’ve held up and are pretty solid. I know you already have the 440 kit on it, but seeing as how you’re taking it apart and you will be into it for new gaskets at about half that price, you might as well just replace it all.

Good to know.


I've now ordered this piston and jug. But I'm worried about the quality of the head that came with the other kit. XD



What are those red rubber looking things?

A friend told me to get this:

https://www.amazon.com/Motrocycle-Engine-150cc-4-Stroke-Electric/dp/B07T8QP1J3/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=gy6+motor&qid=1565808099&s=gateway&sr=8-2

Honestly that looks decently simple to do solo, I can just disconnect the engine and power train from everything and reconnect this one, really simple. But how do I know 100% this one is going to fit my scooter? I need to know before I drop $300 and wait two weeks for delivery. Is there some way I can check?

> Didn’t think about lake water. That would be difficult, too.

Seadoo has supercharged jet skis that already follow this concept.

In reality, the engine (or engine heat exchanger) would really be in a better situation if the water were warmer than the 80s; the extreme difference is one of the concerns of a hotter thermostat. It's likely the intake water could cool the air first, engine second, and exhaust last, with no concerns of heat soak.

You're right about heat soak though; keeping the engine cool when the motor is off is a major concern. I've contemplated what using an electric pump would change; lower drag, higher thermostat, less cavitation.

https://www.amazon.com/Intercooler-Capacity-276000319-276000332-276000397/dp/B0741NZ6H8/

This stuff is cheap and very effective : https://www.amazon.co.uk/Metres-Black-Spiral-Cable-Wrap/dp/B01II0BRMS/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1523710410&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=cable+wrap+spiral&psc=1

First of all, kudos for tackling the problem yourself. That's a good temporary solution. However, hose clamps aren't great at clamping one hose onto another. Too much give. In order to make it a little more permanent I would join the two hoses with a joiner like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H6QBU9K/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_AUnEAbKCSQ90W

That will give the clamps something more solid to work with, or they might not be necessary at all.

Boyesen reeds are not expensive. I think I paid $40 for a kit for my 1980's tohatsu.

A little more in your case. Maybe you can shop around and get a better price. I just clicked the first link.
https://www.amazon.com/Suzuki-Power-Reed-1979-1995-Boyesen/dp/B0189CBZMM

As an after thought, you could also take the reeds out and flip them over, then put them back in. That works well also.

I agree, this is the route I wanted to go but I didn't want to mismatch any parts. Is this the big bore kit you're talking about? Do I need a new head?

Will any A9 cam work? I couldn't find a difference between a 2-stroke and 4-stroke.

My scooter came with the upgraded coil, and I saw a video that explained the advanced CDI's advance timing from 0-11k rpms while the OEM retards it slightly below 3k rpms which makes it easy to start. Is it better to stay with OEM?

Just to clarify, is it because you dont have enough room because you cant compress the piston(s) on one side? If so you can try either a set of piston pliers to loosen it off an see if you can press it in.

Draper Expert 30838 240 mm Motorcycle Brake Piston Pliers https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00487UO1G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6zcWCb98RWM7B

Or try a piston compresser

KESOTO Wheel Disc Brake Pad Installation Caliper Piston Compressor Press Spreader Seperator https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07MFVDSG2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_QAcWCb7W5EGAC

If neiter of these work and it is properly seized you will need to either rebuild the caliper and replace all the seals or replace the caliper entirely.

I think this is the right size, the bore on a honda CB450 is 70mm:

https://www.amazon.com/Honda-Piston-Ring-0-75-Cb450/dp/B012A7IEZS/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_1?keywords=cb450+piston+ring&qid=1556565341&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmrnull

Not the head, just the cylinder itself. I bought this kit from amazon. I just got the piston back in though, and I had to trim one of the rings and replace one of the more minor ones with one from the original piston as the one from the kit got caught and bent out of shape. I'm going to rate this kit like 2.5 stars if it runs.

Sounds good! heres the one I am buying,could you see if it looks fine?

Looks like 700 watts, then? Here is a 350 razor motor from amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Electric-Motor-Razor-MX350-Rocket/dp/B00ED5DH4O

This ought to do it!

http://www.amazon.com/Piece-Clutch-Head-Screw-Driver/dp/B007ZS38PO

What model is your scooter? Does the variator have holes in it for a holder? If it does, you could probably get a universal flywheel and clutch holder from a local motorcycle shop. Like this.

NO!

For heavy oxidation try some thing like meguires oxidation remover

For light oxidation a cleaner wax may be all you need

False. I can tell by that head it's a Honda clone motor, making This the biggest performance upgrade. Hell need atleast a new rear sprocket. Likely a new rear rim and tire too. Brakes would also be recommended.

EDIT: Turns out humor isnt allowed in the EU, so I will make a recommendation following the pattern of the rest of this comment thread. Dont do anything fun OP, dont modify a bike. Dont make any changes and whatever you do, dont lead an exciting life. Especially if that excitement involves gasp breaking a stupid law. The motor is a 190 that uses a slightly modified klx110 casting, which has a cylinder that's about 4 mm wider on the outside than that stock crf50. As long as you dont actually go fast with a cop present, easy because of their love of fluorescent yellow, they'll never know. You could even get a 140 that uses the honda casting, they're indistinguishable from the crf50, on account of the fact that it's just a bored and stroked 50. The move the head bolts a little and the cylinder is longer but without a caliper and knowing what to look for, you ain't finding shit.