Best pretend play toys according to redditors

We found 632 Reddit comments discussing the best pretend play toys. We ranked the 324 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Toy construction tools
Toy kitchen products
Shopping carts, baskets & cash registers
Toy home cleaning products
Magnetic & felt playboards
Money & banking play toys
Toy medical kits
Paper & magnetic dolls
Pretend phones & smartphones

Top Reddit comments about Pretend Play:

u/Panda_911 · 156 pointsr/oddlysatisfying

They're called "Magformers" and they are damned expensive...

Other vendors are available etc...

r/Productporn might like it.

u/Chuff_Nugget · 85 pointsr/INEEEEDIT

They're called "Magformers"

They're damned expensive... We have a set that our kids love, but it was a present from a grandparent, and we won't be buying more..

Other vendors are available etc...

u/raspwar · 80 pointsr/trashy
u/Spilcam · 58 pointsr/Marvel

I bought mine from Target in Maine almost two years ago for 30 bucks. [Amazon] ( has them now for $80. It's nothing special compared to other Nerf guns and I personally can't see myself spending $80 if I wanted a second one.

u/Docteh · 37 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/lewisfairchild · 30 pointsr/nostalgia

They still make the toy cap guns and the roll caps. Toysmith Wild West Metal Cap Gun

u/ohhwerd · 29 pointsr/funny
u/crucible · 17 pointsr/CasualUK

>Think I had a toy one like that

I just had the pull along phone with eyes that everyone has as a kid...

u/Maindric · 17 pointsr/RetroPie

Several years ago I got a Raspberry Pi model A and it lagged in most SNES games. Needless to say, I was disappointed. Well, I just finished this SNES RetroPie build and I am happy. Here is the parts list I used:

u/evilcr · 15 pointsr/HalfLife

uh.....guys, it's over $500.

u/PhirePhly · 14 pointsr/electronics

I highly recommend the Hakko 936 soldering iron Hakko 888 soldering iron, which is still actually available. It's hard to fathom how a $100 soldering iron could be that much better than a $20 one, but once you start doing anything more serious than just sticking some wires together, it's worth it.

As for other tools,

  • Standard needle nose, dikes, and pliers set
  • Tweezers - Additionally plastic ones if you're going to do PCB etching.
  • Dental Picks - for positioning surface mount parts and pushing wires into molten solder.
  • Wire strippers - You'll often see people using the combo wire stripper / crimpers. They're not as nice as a real pair of strippers.
  • +/-12V power supply for basic analog electronics, 5V for digital work
  • Breadboard
  • Solder sucker - Copper braid is useful for the same thing, but given the choice of the two, I prefer the sucker to undo soldered joints.
  • 30x Jewelers Loupe - Mostly useful for surface mount work, but pretty much all soldering is easier when you're able to look at it.

    As for components, I've been buying them piece-meal for years, so other's will probably be able to yield you a better recommendation for kits than anything I can find just from a quick search. I do mostly digital work, so as far as passives, my main stock is:

  • 0.1uF and 100uF capacitors, 25V
  • 100, 330, 1k, 4.7k, 10k, 100k, 1M resistors

    If I need any other resistor for a specific project, I'll tend to just buy an extra 10 and keep them in labeled coin envelopes.

    Random other pieces:

  • Precut Breadboard jumper wires
  • 7805 - 1A 5V linear regulators
  • 1N4007 diodes
  • 1N4148 small signal diodes
  • 3V linear regulators if you do low power work (MSP430, etc)
  • An Arduino - If not for real projects, I use this a lot to hack together crude digital signal generators to test other chips.
  • LEDs - I found a good deal on bright red ones, but any will do
  • push buttons, power switches, DIP switches (4 in a tiny package that fits in breadboards)
  • Copper clad perf board - To make through-hole projects permanent. Be careful because this also comes without the copper pads, which is just more of a pain in the ass to use.
  • Copper Solder braid

    Edit: Fixed the soldering iron model.

    Disclaimer: I'm using my Amazon Associate links for all of these, which always feel a little amoral and a conflict of interest, but really, if my apartment were to go up in flames and I could afford it, I'd buy every link on this list right now. Does anyone have strong opinions one way or the other on using them?
u/ericmok100 · 14 pointsr/pokemon
u/szirith · 13 pointsr/Cyberpunk

I think it's one of these but automated and backlit. Not to diminish the accomplishments here, just to explain it simply. The motors on these things must've been hell to arrange into a coherent array

u/KellyeTheGreat · 13 pointsr/AmazonUnder5

I would just buy a bunch of random stuff cause that's fun.

Rearview Spy Glasses Mirror Vision

Swedish Fish Soft & Chewy Candy 5oz bag

Contact (Keepcase)

Robots Activity Book (Dover Little Activity Books)

The Little Grumpy Cat that Wouldn't (Grumpy Cat) (Little Golden Book)

u/fuzzby · 12 pointsr/LifeProTips

How come they don't make tools like a caulk sucker similar to a solder sucker?

Is too much caulk usually not a problem?

u/Logan_Wolf · 12 pointsr/PS4

You may want to just order one of these PlayStation 4 Mini Wired Gamepad

u/ErantyInt · 10 pointsr/RetroPie

HORI Nintendo Switch Pokken Tournament DX Pro Pad Wired Controller Officially Licensed by Nintendo and Pokemon

PlayStation 4 Mini Wired Gamepad

u/sha-neyney_e13 · 9 pointsr/RocketLeague

I see you're on PS4 so due consider this
Edit: It does work fine with Rocket League in case you're doubtful. I have this control & can confirm.

u/daregroup9 · 9 pointsr/assassinscreed

Her hands are too small for that controller, get her this

u/Scooder · 8 pointsr/DerekSmart

Just got off the phone with a credible source of Derek's, FACT CONFIRMED. His name was Steve, I recorded it.

u/8bitesq · 8 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon
  1. /u/winterster needs this coin bank because it's actually maybe the most adorable thing I have ever seen on Amazon. I do not say this lightly. It's so damn cute!

  2. You're freakin' awesome. This is just a little reminder of that.

  3. I picked you, /u/winterster, because I was thinking of you today! I'm still chugging through What If a hypothetical a night (okay, so, I took a couple weeks off due to TV show live tweeting for my blog) so I wanted to check in!

  4. Upvote all the things.

  5. Kindness is key!!
u/ReyRey5280 · 8 pointsr/CringeAnarchy

Or get these guys... I'm in my 30's and am wondering how I am going to convince my wife I need these.

u/OneMintyMoose · 8 pointsr/pokemon

Pokémon Z-Ring Set yup. It can connect to your 3DS and will be synced with the game.

u/ActionFlank · 8 pointsr/PS4
u/[deleted] · 8 pointsr/kotakuinaction2

There's a third party licensed controller for PS4 that's a kid's controller.

And there is a "Duke" controller for the Xbox One.

Google is solving an issue that doesn't exist. lol

u/hellauberawesome · 7 pointsr/trees
u/akatherder · 7 pointsr/INEEEEDIT

Comparing anything with Lego blocks is going to skew your results. They've been around forever and they are the gold standard, so they cost a damn fortune...

Regarding Magformers, Ebay seems to be the only place they are somewhat reasonably priced. Any store like Target, TRU, Walmart, Amazon you're basically paying $1 per piece (30 pieces = $30+, 60 = $60+).

Which makes me wonder if the ones on ebay are even name brand Magformers. That wouldn't bother me if they are the same quality, but they might have shitty magnets or something.

u/zersch · 7 pointsr/TheCinemassacreTruth

James hairline look like it was created five minutes before filming via the Wooly Willy method.

Edit: I just finished the episode. I cannot possibly stress just how bad the script for this episode is. I cannot believe there are still people in the comments playing into the lie that this is still entertaining. The only positive thing about this is that it's cool for James to be able to say he collaborated with Gilbert on a project.

u/Paxtian · 7 pointsr/Metroid

Did anyone else get a prompt from Amazon to preorder? I got an alert from Amazon yesterday, and according to Amazon, it's Dec. 29, 2018. I'm guessing that's just a default date, though, not anything official. Here's the preorder page:

u/marsairforce · 6 pointsr/synthdiy

Maybe a desolder vacuum hand pump tool. Like
Wemake Solder Sucker- Desoldering Vacuum Pump

u/TheSwami · 6 pointsr/amateurradio

To mention some other homebrewing supplies and tools that haven't come up here:

  • Copper Clad PCB Board for Manhattan or Dead Bug or Island Pad circuit construction.
  • Perf Board for circuits involving many IC's or other 0.1"-spaced leads.
  • A Solder Sucker, for clearing solder from perf-board
  • Solder Wick, for removing solder from things that aren't plated holes.
  • A cheapie Rotary Tool, for making isolation pads, cutting boards, rounding off edges.
  • A decent multimeter - decent used to mean something in that $30-$50 range, but now even down in the sub-$20 range you're looking at plus/minus 0.5% accuracy for voltage measurements, which is good enough for most homebrew purposes. Whatever you do, get one with a continuity alarm! A $6 meter without one is a $6 waste of your money.
  • A decent Soldering Iron. I spent years thinking I was bad at soldering, turns out I was bad at buying soldering irons. A 15W radioshack fixed iron with a fat tip will do you no good. The 50W adjustable pencil linked here it solid, though many people (myself included) prefer a soldering station
  • A pair of fine need nose pliers and a flush cutter. Xuron is the name brand, but excelite or hakko or most others are fine.

u/AckbarForLife · 6 pointsr/marvelstudios
u/stonedeng · 5 pointsr/AskElectronics

I don't have any suggestions on soldering irons, but I do recommend a brass wire sponge over a regular sponge for tip cleaning.

They work great and don't require any water. I personally feel they are better for your iron tip and don't get nasty like a sponge can.

Something like this

Edit: that weller above that you listed is a good iron. Because you are doing SMD as well I would also recommend a solder sucker, as I call them ha.

This here

Helps a ton if you get solder is the wrong place or need to take some off or out of a through hole.

Lastly, these third hands can be a life saver at times if you will be working alone often.

Good luck!

u/JutNob · 5 pointsr/RoastMe

Too. Much. Material. Joke, Overload!

It's Uncle Fester Hipster Edition

David Attenborough : here we've captured a North American Couch Potato on his bi-daily, foraging excursion.

You have the skin tone of a Circus Clown. I suggest you look into it. You look to be "in-between" jobs and you could save a fortune in overhead costs

Please stay out of the woods for the foreseeable future

whew!! that was fun! All jokes aside OP, you do remind me of a Childhood Friend 😊

u/henryblazer · 5 pointsr/3DS

If you're getting him Pokemon Moon, you'll want to get him the Z-ring bracelet accessory with it that works directly with Pokemon Moon he will LOVE IT .émon-Z-Ring-Set/dp/B01JA03S9A

u/scrogu · 5 pointsr/RetroPie

Wireless is a pain to set up and PS4 controllers are expensive. The Hori Pokken controller is great, but the controller that looks like the best for retro pies now is going to be released on December 4th.

I want the two analog control sticks since a lot of PSX games work fine on retro pie, but need analog control. Also, the Drastic emulator runs many Nintendo DS games and many of those need touch support which you can emulate with one of the thumbsticks. Finally, and most importantly some arcade games such as Smash TV and the fabulous Assault Plus are designed with two analog controls in mind.

I've already ordered 5 of these since I trust Hori's quality on other controllers. I will post how well they work once they arrive.

u/2capp · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Might be worth getting a solder wick for when you inevitably screw up. Solder vacuum isn't a terrible idea either. I have both, I use them for different things. A third hand is also useful. I find myself using the glass more than the arms but it's all useful. If the iron you buy doesn't come with one a brass ball is great for keeping your tip clean without cooling it off like a sponge will. Micro-cutter is useful, not sure if angled or straight is better, up to you I guess. Last but not least a pair of angled tweezers. You can get those anywhere.

These are all the things I have within arm's reach when I'm doing a project. Have fun!

u/squidboots · 4 pointsr/hardware

My advice is to pick up a soldering heat sink to clip onto the board so you don't damage other components while desoldering, and pick up a desoldering tool and some solder wick. I suggest trying to wick the solder first - I find it easier to work with than a solder sucker.

De-solder each through-hole individually and you should be able to get it out without damaging the rest of the board.

I sincerely doubt you'll be able to salvage the broken piece and TBH it isn't worth the trouble - parts are so cheap that you would be better off replacing it. Check out Mouser and Digikey. The laptop's user guide/literature should have the exact specifications for power-in. In my experience, Mouser is faster to ship. Also worth mentioning that both places sell soldering/desoldering tools.

Good luck!

u/WoodenGearSolid · 4 pointsr/Damnthatsinteresting

You can just buy them though so that seems kind of wasteful. Found the rolls too.

u/kagealex9 · 4 pointsr/doctorwho

awesome job with the little human op.

so I can see via the comments you got her the 11th's sonic but I do have a suggestion one of these so she can make her own or if you wanted recolour the 11th's have a merry Christmas hope you enjoy the special.

u/ForgottenRomeo · 4 pointsr/doctorwho

Here ya go!

u/sarcastic24x7 · 3 pointsr/therewasanattempt
u/Eisenstein · 3 pointsr/vintageaudio

Well, if you can use the lab and it has a scope in it then you just scored big time.

As far as $100. I would get:

(amazon links for convenience, use any supplier you wish)

  • DMM (digital multimeter) - must have diode check, DC volts, AC volts, Ohms, and continuity. Extech EX330 ($50) or Equus 3320 ($20)

  • clip leads for the meter such as these - these are important because you will need to take values while the amp is on, and you don't want to be poking around a live amp

  • variable power/temp soldering iron - cheap one good one better one

  • 60/40 leaded solder - I like this kind

  • desolder braid

  • rosin flux

  • contact cleaner

  • (de-oxit d-5)[]

  • flush cutters

  • solder sucker

  • shrink tube of various diameters

  • 92%+ isopropyl alcohol

  • windex

  • q-tips

  • paper towels

  • needle nose pliers

  • nice set of phillips head screwdrivers

  • standard screwdriver

  • miner's headlamp

  • digital camera for taking many many pictures before and during disassembly

  • printer for printing service manuals

  • heat gunor hair dryer

  • canned air

    EDIT: Light bulb socket, 100W + 60W real light bulbs (not the hippy engery saving kind), electrical outlet - these are for making a dim bulb tester.

    All I can think of right now.
u/dude_the_dirt_farmer · 3 pointsr/diypedals

Maybe, maybe not. Get a solder sucker. Something like this:*Version*=1&*entries*=0 Heat up the blobbers and suck them off and redo them.

Simplest way to solder is to touch the tip so it contacts the PCB connection and the component lead for a couple seconds and then lightly touch the tip of the spool of solder to that point, it will flow right on to both points, or touch the solder to the tip of the iron right above that point and the solder will flow down onto the connection, leave the tip there for a second or two and then remove it. It should cool and leave a shiny solder joint. If it's kind of murky grey like a lot of those on your PCB, the solder wasn't hot enough when you removed the heat.

Getting a tip that has a small point is super helpful. A decent soldering iron makes everything so much easier as well. This is a good cheap one. The ones that are like 25 bucks from Radioshack are garbage.

u/Sound_Doc · 3 pointsr/electronics

Well, first your going to need to get a Solder Sucker of some variety, there are many out there, some cheap ones all the way up to very expensive vacuum powered rework stations. Recovery is going to be little more difficult, can I ask why you're trying to recover the solder?

Do you mean your going to attempt to reuse it?

Even if you do collect all the solder you "suck" that solder will be "dead". It won't have any flux in it, and you really won't be able to work with it again. Even doing little bits of rework or repair I usually completely clean the connection and go with new fluxcore solder else dope the area with flux before attempting any work.

u/electricblock · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards
u/Mortal_Scum · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Use a decent soldering iron and get one of these. Proceed carefully, don't rip up the pads, and keep the temperature as low as possible (while still melting the solder). Desoldering can be tedious, but you'll get there.

And no---no cool down necessary. So long as your iron isn't blazing hot, the PCB plastic can take it.

u/_imjosh · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

This is my go to list for what you need for soldering:

hakko soldering iron w/ diagonal cutters $91

hakko diagonal cutters $4.37

solder $7

solder sucker $6

solder flux $8 check digikey

solder wick $7
check digikey

wire strippers $10

helping hands $7 check harbor freight

check for lower price

One of the hakko clone stations paired with some genuine hakko tips is probably a good compromise on price/value. Maybe someone else that's from the UK could suggest something different that's also affordable there.

u/alek_hiddel · 3 pointsr/Showerthoughts

Did you never play with one of those "Bed of Nails" that has had all of the sharp ends cut off?

Pretty sure that like 99% of American's born in the last 30-40 years have played with one of those at least once.

u/OpticalData · 3 pointsr/doctorwho

Loosely based off of them yes.

Also apologies, I made an error. It wasn't the transtemporal sonic (which is a different thing) it's a 'Personalize Your Sonic Screwdriver' set See here

u/ILikeYourHotdog · 3 pointsr/blogsnark

Is anyone willing to share their kids' absolute favorite toys/games/crafting supplies? (We have two girls ages 4 & 7.) I'm trying to be a lot more selective to avoid the toymaggedon that invariably happens every year when we end up with a lot of crap they don't care about or play with. And I refuse to get on the LOL doll/Pikmi Pops bandwagon because they are fun for the 3 minutes they spend opening them and then zero interest afterwards.

I'll share a few of our favorites in case anyone else is in the same boat:

7 y.o. loves: Uno (card game), Math Slam game,

4 y.o. loves: Melissa & Doug housekeeping set, M&D play kitchen

Both girls are obsessed with drawing/coloring with oil pastels

Family games we all love playing together: HeadBanz, Zingo, Monopoly Junior,

u/ernieball · 3 pointsr/BabyBumps

Truth. My son whacked me in the head the other day with his new mop. That's was fun.

u/Fikko3107 · 3 pointsr/fightsticks

I might be wrong but I think when he said Hori Mini he meant that he wants to padhack from one of these:


u/donniedarkhair · 3 pointsr/rant

Buy him one of these mini controllers until he can control his rages. They're half the price and I actually have been using it over my typical dualshock because my hands are small and it's easier for me since I think I'm slowly developing carpal tunnel.

u/Mustafanasr · 3 pointsr/ApexConsole

PlayStation 4 Mini Wired Gamepad

Wired but has good reviews

u/Chriand · 3 pointsr/teslamotors

Just bought a Hori mini ps4 controller .
I can launch the game, and press Start, but controls dont work. If i go to options - controls, the controller wont work anymore except X and square button.

Edit: The game is cuphead

u/andvarix · 3 pointsr/PS4Deals

Yup, Knack 1 was free on PS+ recently and Knack 2 can be had for $10 from Redbox. I beat Knack 1 with her before I played Rayman. Definitely need to have patience. Also, this controller may be perfect for her:

u/TemptedTemplar · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

It only works for select products. It would be listed on the games store page if it was eligible.

Here it is on the DB FighterZ page

But it is not on the Moonlighter page

u/whosbloodisthat · 2 pointsr/shittyadvice

I think they go in here.

u/FeelTheWrath79 · 2 pointsr/gifs
u/KenGor · 2 pointsr/gifs
u/cexshun · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

If I had nothing and wanted to purchase decent quality stuff but still being affordable, I'd do the following.

Multimeter $45

Soldering Station $38

Solder $25

Desoldering Pump $6

If this is the only time you ever plan on soldering, then you can get away with the cheap stuff. You could probably source some of it locally for cheaper. None of this is great quality, but it will do the job for a 1 time project. While I wouldn't enjoy it, I could build an Ergodox with the following setup.

Desoldering Pump $6

Multimeter $13

Solder $9

Soldering Iron $8

Iron Holder $6

u/agroom · 2 pointsr/electronics

I know lead is bad for us, but is that why or does lead-free heat up/bond better?

I've got a solder sucker. I'm sure it's the same thing.

u/Ostracus · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Be interesting to see if a spring-loaded solder sucker would work.

u/kkauka · 2 pointsr/techsupport

You should also buy a "solder sucker" ( ) which is a vacuum pump, to remove the solder when you heat it up.

That will help prevent damage to the circuit board foil 'traces' which can break or lift off the board if you just heat the solder and wiggle/pull the cap. Also some components are soldered to traces on both sides of the board.

Many Dell and HP pcs had the problem for several years, our company had many models replaced under warranty. They would typically fail after 2 or 3 years. Tops of the caps were bulged or had white or yellow powder coming out of the top.

u/dc2oh · 2 pointsr/computertechs

In addition to this, a solder sucker is both helpful and fun. In all seriousness, it makes the part pull so much easier when all of the old solder is completely removed. Makes for a cleaner re-application of the replacement part as well.

u/Daviler · 2 pointsr/drones

I would heavily suggest getting one of these

As far as the solder goes as long as the 5v pad isn't connected to that center pad you will be fine, the solder can remain on the pads as long as the pads aren't connected

On a another note if they are connected put your solder gun on a low heat setting (Just barely melting the solder) And using your solder gun to carry some of the excess away

u/Rocksteady2R · 2 pointsr/electronics

a) yes, it seems pretty much the same. For the most uses, most DMMs (Digital Multi Meter) will work just fine. Your basic needs are to have a couple of different ranges for both voltage and ampacity readings (i'm refering to the accuracy of the readings here... a DVM generally has 3 or 4 characters on the screen to describe the charactieristic. one range will cover, let's say up to 2 millivolts, and the next will cover up to 2 volts, the next up to 20... you'll figure it out). another major tool on the DVM is an audible continuity tester. these just make a tone when you have a clean circuit path between points a and b. Big help. That one you linked up seems pretty decent.... when you start wiring houses or something, then you can think about upgradign into a fluke handheld or a benchtop if you're doing big fancy circuits, but that'd be fine for quite a while.

I'll tell you, my Iron Experience is pretty dang limited. but this is what i know. As far as a soldering iron goes, one of the major considerations is the power rating, i.e. the wattage ratings... i think mine is about 30W, and it works just fine. If i had my druthers I'd go to one of those variable ones that can get up to ~800 degrees. I'd also definitely consider one that comes with a proper resting stand. An operating soldering iron is a pretty big safety issue, in that it is a burning hot iron tip hanging around on a surface that may or may not be covered in flammable material or human flesh.

As far as de-soldering irons go, at school i have access to those fancy powered vacuum ones... I just take any desoldering tasks i have over there because they are the cats meow. I've used those l'il non-powered vacuum tubes and i think they are going to take a lot of skill and training to get to use efficiently. i didn't like them. I've never used or seen this type

u/Danpaulcornell · 2 pointsr/vintageaudio

Here are some useful links: Link; Link; Link. The Marantz cost about $58 using good quality replacements. I did a H/K 330B for $9.58. The Marantz 2285 I am working on cost about $90 for parts.


You will need a decent soldering iron; solder sucker; desoldering braid; lead solder; flux; and most importantly a multimeter. Here is another gear thread. Most of the manuals are available on Hifiengine. What you can't find there you can check the forums or Sams. Manuals on Fleabay should be an absolute last resort.


I would recommend going to a local thrift store and getting some practice junker units. It will take you some time to good at it and you certainly don't want to screw up your good unit. I still don't know anywhere near enough to do more than replace the parts and do basic troubleshooting. Fortunately for people like us, there are a lot of very helpful and knowledgeable persons on the forums who are always willing to lend a hand. Edit: Forgot about the Dim Bulb Tester.

u/LD_in_MT · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Soldering iron:

Edit: most people recommend getting a chisel tip for the soldering iron. Big tips for big jobs, small tips for small jobs. Just having the pencil tip and one chisel will get you by for a long time.

Desoldering braid:

Desoldering pump:

You want both the pump and the braid. Get thin solder for electronics. You should probably use lead-free, but I like good old 60/40.

There are a ton of suggestions on multimeters. The exact right one for you depends on what you eventually want to do. Dave Jone's EEVBlog has some good suggestions. As does Adafruit. Anything Adafruit recommends isn't too far off the mark. If you just want a suggestion: Extech EX330 for $45 Cheaper ones will do the job, but this is a better one. The next step up are True RMS meters for about $100.

u/jortbort · 2 pointsr/jewelry

You can remove most of the solder by heating the solder and using a solder sucker. I feel like the clasp would probably go between the two pieces and not on top but am really not sure by looking at it.

I'd probably take it a jeweler and just ask them. If it can't be repaired and it doesn't have too much sentimental value then you could purchase her one.

u/XTGNecro · 2 pointsr/movies

Zordon looks like one of those push pin toys at the store. I have no idea what they're officially called.

EDIT: I found it

u/an_almaniac · 2 pointsr/toddlers

We like Magformers and were able to find a set at TJ Maxx. I’d check out those types of stores.

They are strong and I think the rounded edges are better for making more shapes.

u/SsurebreC · 2 pointsr/gifs
u/sweetbeauty · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Retail therapy is always a nice way to feel better. If that doesn't work, you can always get a Dammit Doll to work out your frustrations. Or, you could get a cute kitty coin bank to save up for your next shopping trip. Or a portable phone charger for when your phone is about to die!

u/spctrbytz · 2 pointsr/whatisthisthing

Here is a current model that accepts roll caps. Most of these toys aren't built to last, though.

I got my last one confiscated about third grade, lunch period.

u/sweepminja · 2 pointsr/metaldetecting

I use to have metal ones that looked like actual revolver hand guns. They also didn't have the orange plastic ends. They used paper caps instead of the rings.

They looked like the above link but, with paper roll caps.

This was 25 years ago! Still glad to see they're still made.

u/robotjackie · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon
  • The Portal Gun Replica. A 1:1 scale model that's customizable. it's $122

  • The main reason is so that I can be Chell for halloween this year (at a huge local music festival with Nine Inch Nails and Gary Numan). But it would also just make a wonderful addition to my Portal-obsessed collection.

  • Absolutely. I actually already have another costume picked out (expecting to not be able to afford the portal gun), and will survive without more portal-y goodness around my home.

    "Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds (i'm new to this.. did I do that right).

    Also, thanks for the contest.. I like looking around at other folks' big-ticket items.
u/thegenregeek · 2 pointsr/Vive

> Trackers for the consumer is overrated. However, for commercial applications it's very powerful.

Look at the Hyperkin Tracker bundle

Now imagine collectors editions, compatible with the tracker, made for: this, this, or this

The ability to buy your favorite VR game in a collectors edition (with accompanying physical item) and slap a tracker on it is a killer fearture for gamers. Massively ups the immersion factor in a their favorite games, while increasing dev sales opportunity.

Problem is VR needs an install before companies will commit to selling these exclusives.

u/P0rtable_Panda · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Only doing Akeleie's demands because I know it annoys her.

Most geeky - Hylian Shield - On figures and geeky stuff WL

Item which would most help a goal - Guitar strings so I can finally try to teach myself to play. - On default WL

Best item to bring to a deserted island - portal gun...duh - On figures and geeky stuff WL

I don't actually want any of that stuff cos it's expensive, I only entered to annoy /u/Akeleie

u/xCurlyQ · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Probably this since Portal is the best game ever!

This is a little more reasonably priced, but I still really want it! :)

u/CowToes · 2 pointsr/gifs

[SPOILER] The guy getting shaved is actually a "Wooly Willy" toy.

u/Jilly_Bean16 · 2 pointsr/Wishlist

this is how I’m going to involve my toddler in spring cleaning this year!

u/PirateReject · 2 pointsr/cosplay

You can buy the Nerf guns on Amazon, and repaint them! :)

A few prop makers are working on the mask kit. My buddy WM Armory will be releasing his soon.

u/manwatchingfire · 2 pointsr/CasualConversation

I bought my kid this laser tag toy and its awesome we play with it all the time. If there are siblings somewhere in your family you can give it to all of them as a shared present. My parents always did this with "the good stuff" on Christmas. It always sorted itself out eventually.

u/Amonette2012 · 2 pointsr/Seattle

Is this a good thing to bring our laser tag toy guns and grenades to? We just got them and they could use a good testing out! Also just got a Google Cardboard in the post in case anyone wants play with VR. Needs putting together though.

u/crabrawler · 2 pointsr/pokemon

Dimensions are 8 x 3 x 8 inches according to

It will in all likelihood fit on a kids wrist

u/JereTR · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

metroid Expected by December 31, 2022

u/illQualmOnYourFace · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Metroid Prime 4 - Available for pre-order for release on...December 29, 2018 :(

u/KittySunsh1ine · 2 pointsr/GirlGamers

Absolutely! I went 8 months unable to play or hold a controller at all, and with some meds, PT, and this little guy, I'm back to almost full marathon days as long as I wear my braces/compression gloves and take regular breaks!

u/tkshi · 2 pointsr/PS4

This ones great for fighting games, no analog sticks:

This one has analog sticks and tiny share n option buttons, but it is targeted for “kids” so if your hands are big then might be too small for you:

Both I’m sure can be had from or

u/PriceKnight · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitchDeals

Price History

  • Dragon Ball Fighterz Nintendo Switch   ^PureLink
    CamelCamelCamel - [Info]Keepa - [Info]

    Don't En Passant these deals.
    ^(Info) ^| ^(Developer) ^| ^(Inquiries) ^| ^(Support Me!) ^| **[^(Report Bug)](/message/compose?to=The_White_Light&subject=Bug+Report&message=%2Fr%2FNintendoSwitchDeals%2Fcomments%2Fc8xuo4%2Fdragon_ball_fighter_z_2518_onamazon%2Fesqzgn9%2F%0D%0A%0D%0A
u/billybobiswatching · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

As someone mentioned Super Mario Odyssey and The Legend of Zelda: Breath of the Wild are must haves.

Some I'd recommend would be

u/SamebdasBundy · 1 pointr/RoastMe
u/pxlnght · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Once you get a new board, it would be a great idea to experiment with the old board. My first board was a Ducky Shine 3, and once I moved on I defs swapped LEDs and practiced soldering on it. It's a good investment to play with cheaper / worthless boards and parts before you accidentally bork your custom c:

To replace the switches, you'll need a solder sucker and a soldering iron. Those are the tools I use, and have used for the past 2-3 years. They're serving me well. I am very impressed with the soldering iron, as it's fairly reasonably priced (but YMMV, if you want the for-sure high quality iron Weller is highly recommended). Whatcha do is heat up the solder joints for the switches using the soldering iron (320-350C is good for temp), then quickly remove the soldering iron and put the solder sucker flush with the PCB above the joint. Press the button on the sucker and (if you were fast enough) it'll pull the melted solder off the board and into the sucker. Rinse and repeat for the rest of the switches. You will need to desolder all switches and LEDs before you can remove them, as they're likely plate mounted. After everything is desoldered and out, just put the new switches into position and solder 'em in. There are many good youtube videos on how to solder, but basically you just heat the joint (320-350C) and apply solder until you have a 'peak', whereas the solder is on the PCB touching the pad and it forms a nice peak to the top of the switch leg. (Peaking ensures that you have visual contact between the PCB and switch leg, which is why it's the go-to method).

After that you can get into cooler mods. Lube switches, clip and lube stabs, sip sockets, holtites, custom layouts, handwiring, building your own firmware... you can really go nuts if you want, it's all up to you. LMK if you have any other questions!

u/MorleyDotes · 1 pointr/Bass

If you're going to do it yourself get a soldering iron and a de-soldering pump. Then check online for the schematics, places like this. Replace all the capacitors first and you'll probably fix the problem.

u/muklan · 1 pointr/techsupportgore make sure you have one of these. SO goddamn handy

u/WaffleTail · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Dunno about the DA but for keyboards you can. As /u/01111000x said it'll void any warranty you may have with it.

I changed out all my LED's and Cherry switches using the following items:

Weller SP40NKUS - May be too powerful but it got the job done fine.

Solder sucker

Leaded solder with rosin core

Desoldering wick

I guess for Green LED's anything on eBay would work. 2x3x4mm square led's or flangless 3mm will both work. I got mine frome here because im impatient.

u/mitchelwb · 1 pointr/pinball

I typed up a great list last night, then somehow, I managed to screw it up and lost the whole thing. So I decided to heck with it... and found a beer.

Let's try again.

Standard tools:

  • screwdrivers, needle nose pliers, sockets, and most important, hollow point nut drivers. I got set from Sears on sale for about $20. You don't usually need the metric ones, but I love the zipper case they came in. It's worth the $20 alone if you ask me.

    Standard tools with more specific uses:

  • You need a decent multimeter. It doesn't have to be fancy, I have a $300 Fluke that works just as good as a little cheapie that I got for free. And vice versa. The fluke does make somethings easier, like it's autoranging and has longer and better leads, but for just getting started, you should be able to pick up something decent for $20.
  • You'll also need a soldering iron. Get a pencil, not a gun. Guns get too hot for most things. There are times when they are great in a pinball, like soldering coil lugs, but for most solder work, a cheap 25 watt pencil will get you by. I used cheapies for almost 10 years before I finally got a nice hakko and now I don't know how I ever lived without it.
  • You'll also probably need to learn how to desolder stuff as well. There are a couple ways to do it. It takes practice, and I'd strongly suggest practicing soldering on junk boards before ever going at a pinball board. To desolder, there is the cheap way or you can spend a lot of money on a pricey desoldering system. I got one of these when I got my Hakko soldering iron. I love it, I don't know how I ever lived without it, but I also know that it's very expensive, especially if there are still a lot of other tools you don't have yet.
  • We've already talked about you may need to replace some pins in your board connectors. You need two tools for that. First, you need a Molex Flat Pin Extractor. This lets you get the pins and wires out of the housings. You don't have to have it, you could cut the wires and use new housings, but those housings are increasingly difficult to find and it's not the housing that's a problem, it's the pins inside. This tool lets you extract the pin from the housing, cut it off, strip your wire and crimp on a new pin to slide back in to the housing.
  • Speaking of crimping on a new pin... You're going to need Pin Crimpers for that. I have the yellow pair and they work great for most everything pinball. Yes, I technically also have some much more expensive ratcheting pin crimpers, but honestly, I tend to use these cheaper ones more. I don't really know why.

    Finally, pinball specific tools:

  • Flexstones are used for cleaning contacts on switches. You want to be a little careful with these though... they're meant for some of the heavier switches. Often times, a business card will clean the gunk out well enough and doesn't risk destroying the contact points on the switch.
  • Palnut removal tool is a very handy tool. Until you need one, it's kinda hard to describe what it's for, but trust me, you want one if you're going to try and take the plastics off your playfield posts to replace rubbers or change light bulbs. It's not really necessary, but for the money, it's a damn handy tool.
  • Contact Adjuster is also a very handy tool. More for older EM games with lots of relays than for solid state games, but I mention it because Hulk, like many early solid state Gottliebs likely has a couple relays inside. It's unlikely you'll need this tool for Hulk, but it is a handy one to have around. Especially if you think you're going to be working on anything older.

    That should be about it. At least to get started. Depending on where you go from there, there are a bazillion things you could spend money on. But since you only have one machine right now, this basic list should take you a very long way. And don't kill yourself buying a ton of expensive specialty tools like fancy soldering irons if you don't think this is something you'll want to do a lot of. If you decide you like it and want to spend more money later, those are great upgrades.
u/cdchris12 · 1 pointr/consolerepair

Is it necessary to clean up flux? Almost never. Is it a good idea to do it anyway? I'd say so. Here's a good article about all things solder and flux to bring you up to speed.

Flux is SUPER carcinogenic, or so I've been lead to believe, and it also causes serious gastrointestinal issues if ingested, in even relatively small amounts. I generally try to leave all the circuit boards I work on clean of big globs of flux, but I'm no perfectionist. Flux is non-conductive, so don't worry if you leave a bunch behind or it looks like the flux might be bridging a connection. I oftentimes leave smaller flux contamination spots on the board, unless it's in a spot where I'd be likely to touch next time I'm handling the board.

Here's a pretty good soldering iron, the Hakko FX-888. It's more than enough iron to last you through all your projects in the foreseeable future, and it comes with extra tips and a tip cleaning canister. To be honest, though, it's pretty expensive, and I totally understand if it's out of your price range. Personally, I use a Chinese clone, which works extremely well, for what I paid for it.

I'd also recommend anyone working on anything with a soldering iron to get a set of helping hands. Finding one which isn't broken or of shit quality is a real crapshoot, but, once you have one that works, you'll wonder how you ever got by without one. Personally, I recommend spending the cash to get one with some sort of LED built in, but here's a link to a cheap and functional set of helping hands.

If you're going to be desoldering things often (or trying to make beautiful solder joints), you definitely want to get yourself some desoldering braid, which is just stranded copper wire filled with flux paste. When you put heat to the top of the braid and put the bottom of the braid on the component, the braid will wick excess solder from the component. Once you master using this stuff, it's a real boon for disassembly (or cleanup of solder blobs). You might also want to look into a desoldering pump, which is okay for some things, but not nearly as versatile as desoldering braid.

Last, but certainly not least, is having the right solder for the job. Personally, I use silver bearing solder, because I've been told it is more resistant to cold joints, and slightly more conductive. Here's a link to a spool of silver bearing solder, which I'd buy, were I in the market for a new spool.

One more link for you... When I was looking for a link to that Chinese clone soldering station, I stumbled on this DIY SMD soldering practice kit. Might be worth your time to invest in one and try your luck. For $2, it's a great way to go from soldering zero to soldering hero in a day or two. Also, check this page for more DIY kit ideas.

Let me know if you have any more questions! My inbox is always available, if you'd feel more comfortable PM'ing me questions, too. (That goes for anyone who needs a hand, not just /u/websurferathome)

u/Noobcoder_and_Maker · 1 pointr/arduino

You might find a solder sucker -
Or some de-soldering braid/wick - useful for removing the solder easily when removing header pins. Also before you try de-soldering, remove the plastic part from the pins by pulling it off with some pliars, this allows you to remove the pins 1 by 1, preventing the solder pads getting to hot and coming off.

u/solefald · 1 pointr/DJs

Great job. Though you need to get yourself one of these.

u/Nyxian · 1 pointr/arduino

When soldering to the header, should I do it to the long or short side?

Do you have any suggestions for solder suckers that work well for the size of work here? I'm looking at this one on amazon but it seems like the opening may be too large. Thoughts?

u/turtlegiraffecat · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

If you can, get a cheap solder sucker. I desoldered ALL switches from my g710+ and it was a dream with this guy

u/advicevice · 1 pointr/OpenPV

You'll need a solder pump and a reamer to get the broken pin out. Put the board in a vise/third-hand tool or whatever. You need to be able to work on both sides of it. Apply your soldering iron to one side and have the solder pump on the other. When the solder is melted you fire the pump and it will suck the solder and hopefully the pin out. You can use the reamer to make the hole a little bigger and get some tinned wire in there.

Solder sucker/pump

Soldering tools

The reamer is the second one from the left. I'm pretty sure RadioShack sells both.

u/narwhalyurok · 1 pointr/DIY

You need a solder sucker. Heat one point at a time and suck out the molten solder. Start on to the next one. Don't know the real name but they are available at most elec. stores. Try this link in amazon.

u/CBNathanael · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

If you're just dipping your toe in the water, grab that Weller I linked. It's under $40, but is a well respected budget iron. I personally own a Weller WES51. It's a fantastic iron, but if you're not convinced that soldering things is going to become a hobby, save your money.

Hakko is also a popular brand, but I'm not as familiar with their lower-end gear. If you get an adjustable temp iron from Hakko or Weller, you'll be set for a while.

Some other handy items are:

  • Desoldering Wick - Just a copper braid that will suck up solder. Great for removing parts from the board.
  • Solder Sucker - A cheap little vacuum that is supposed to suck the liquid solder off of a joint. I personally prefer the wick with a dab of flux. Others swear by the solder sucker. Both are cheap enough, so grab both and see what you prefer :)
  • Rosin Flux - a chemical that helps strip corrosion from your contacts, allowing the solder to flow smoothly and create solid joints. There are a lot of versions, but I've preferred using a pen like this one. It can (and will) make a sticky mess, so only use tiny, tiny amounts. (If you use the pen, keep a giant wad of paper towels nearby for when you need to get the flow going. I tried doing it with my makes a MASSIVE mess. The paper towels help immediately soak up the unexpected flow of rosin.
  • Helping Hands - Cannot recommend this enough. Typically, you'll see things like this one. But after a while, the joints weaken, and it won't hold anything in place. I bought a SparkFun Third Hand which is amazingly stiff and has held up quite well. Great purchase.

    Other things to consider are goggles, a small fan to pull the fumes away from you (DON'T BLOW ON THE JOINTS), and something to solder on top of. If you don't care about your work surface, it's no big deal. But I use my desk, and sometimes the kitchen table, so I have an old 1 foot ceramic tile that I solder on top of -- the soldering iron base doesn't get hot, but you can drip/splatter solder if you're being careless, and it gives you a hard surface to use that you don't have to worry about getting hot/burned.
u/rilacser · 1 pointr/diyaudio

Not really, just need a soldering iron and a desoldering pump
You can find some tutorials on Youtube.
Try to find a soldering iron with a small end.

This is what a desoldering pump looks like.
It's kind of easy to use

After that, you can get some LEDs and/or some of these. It's really simple to wire.

u/was-not-taken · 1 pointr/Guitar

Looks like you've started down the road to learning how to make your own cables, and you need some guidance while you're practicing.

This page has a nice picture of good, bad and ugly results. Yours are not bad for a beginner but ... ugly.

This set of search results will provide lots of information. Read as much as you can.

Here's what I use for guitar cable soldering tools. The links are for explanation. You don't have to get them at Amazon. An electronics store will have them. You may decide it's less expensive to buy the patch cables. But, if you are a do it yourself type, the tools will pay for themselves.

Weller 25W iron Get some extra chisel tips. They get destroyed quickly by noobs.

Helping hands

Wire stripper

Solder sucker

Brass wool solder iron cleaner

63/37/resin core .6mm solder

u/dedokta · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

Also get a solder sucker. You'll use it far more than the wick.

Edit: So why the downvote? Does someone not like solder suckers?

u/jaykaizen · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

I'm basically in the same boat as you so I cant help you much but here's some places that can.
I haven't watched that video but there are is a few on YouTube.

try doing a search here and if you still have questions do a post.

Thsee are two highly rated soldering stations on amazon

And you may want to get these

You may want to start with an unregulated or an okr or raptor build. It'll be cheaper and its easy to find tutorials on building them online. That is probably what I will start with.

u/cupcakegiraffe · 1 pointr/pics

The plastic peg ones are alright, but the best ones are the ones with the metal pegs. They're so cool against your face when you're trying to see if it will outline your nostrils well or not.

Edit: You said you were keeping your eyes out for one!

u/shanulu · 1 pointr/AskLibertarians

Yes but who decides: A central authority trying to process all the information or numerous individual actors processing the information they have? The idea here is that one central decision maker cannot act with as much precision as millions or billions of small ones (Some market failures occur, it isn't perfect). I like to think of it like one of these. Imagine the people make up a lot of small needles. A government has bigger needles in radius. The bigger the government the fewer needles that fit in that space, and the less clear the impression becomes.

u/ntoff · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

you don't need to, all it is is one of these with looser fitting pins that can drop into place by the looks of it.

I wonder if a 3d printed version would be anti static compliant. Maybe if it were printed with carbon fibre filament (does that stuff actually conduct? I know real carbon fibre does.... ^ask ^me ^how ^I ^would ^know ^that )

u/AlasPoorBenedick · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon
u/milkybuet · 1 pointr/oddlysatisfying

This is the one posted I believe. But there are cheaper ones available.

u/seamstress80 · 1 pointr/beyondthebump

Brio push cart. Useful to learn to walk. Additionally they love pushing things. Better this than have them pushing chairs around the house.

Toys with a string to pull. Like [this one] (

Bobby car (Wikipedia says it's from the age of two, but it's rather from a bit over one)

A xylophone

Building blocks

u/prettypinkdork · 1 pointr/MildlyStartledCats
u/Trey5169 · 1 pointr/holdmyfries

I definitely thought it was one of those pop cap guns, with the sparks and everything, until you mentioned this.

u/Booker009 · 1 pointr/cosplay

We actually talked about that! It's just a cap gun like this that he painted. He took off the plastic orange tip, put a dowel rod down the barrel and made the BANG flag.

u/KymPerson · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

A Make-your-own Sonic Screwdriver kit. It'd kick off my year by reminding me that cosplaying a character I totally made up is an awesome thing. That boost of confidence would help.

u/jamin101wolf · 1 pointr/Portal

They've been going up and up in price but you can find them here. I bought mine a little over a year ago for $98.

u/siegewolf · 1 pointr/gaming

I got the one that was all 3 portal guns for $100 on Think Geek. They don't make it anymore. This Amazon link is the only image of the thing I can find now.

u/cosplayhelp · 1 pointr/Portal

NECA's online store on Amazon. It was on sale about two years ago for a little over $100. Now, it's more expensive.

u/TheCreedsAssassin · 1 pointr/Flipping

Its this; It says 26" x 14" x 14" in box, and after shipping, itll go around 9 or so pounds, so maybe UsPS ground will work, as I bought it through ground.

u/BonderBRodriguez · 1 pointr/HalfLife

That's amazing.

You need one of these gravity guns


NECA Half-Life 2 - Prop Replica - Zero-Point Energy Field Manipulator

u/Daneel_ · 1 pointr/gaming

My wife can’t remember the price for hers, but mine was AUD$300 back in 2013-ish (about USD$250 at the time?).

Here’s a link to some still in stock on Amazon:

Feels good in the hands, but the claws are quite delicate - one of mine was damaged by someone being careless, although I managed to fix it :)

u/PMGeary · 1 pointr/RoastMe

You look like a real life version of wooly willy

u/trixmix12812 · 1 pointr/perfectloops

Reminds me of THIS guy...

u/LevelReward · 1 pointr/HelpMeFind

grab the filings and magnetic wand from this and then follow these DIY instructions

u/ben827 · 1 pointr/Nerf

What you could do is get a Vendetta Sword. It breaks into two swords, so then you have one for you and one for your friend. You can also try the ZombieStrike Blade, but I think it's more cost efficient to get the Vendetta Sword. Also, the Marauder Sword is no longer in production and the likeliness of finding one for a reasonable price (or 2 as you requested) is rather slim. eBay is the place to go for the Marauder Sword. You can get the Vendetta Sword on eBay. I hear it actually is quite durable.

I'm kinda happy that I got my Thunder Fury swords back in 2008 before they were put out of production for less than $20 now that I know they're up to $150 each.

Here's a link for the Vendetta Sword. Amazon probably doesn't have the best pricing, but it's an option. Do some searching. And waiting. Prices can go down if you wait with Amazon.

Heres a link to the ZombieStrike Blade, I recommend waiting to buy this, I got one for $12 not too long ago. Prices can rise or drop.. It's basically a newer version of the Vantage. Here's a better deal from Target for $12.99 each. If you're looking for 2, I'd recommend getting that. I hear Target is offering some good deals this weekend, so I'd take advantage of that if I were you.

Nerf swords typically don't have incredible durability, but they cost a hell of a lot less than many LARP swords. I recommend this site if you're looking for high quality swords. It's super expensive, though. And if you don't want to go out and buy foam and stuff to make your own, I suggest finding deals on Nerf swords. It's a cheaper and less time-consuming alternative.

See what I mean about the Marauder?. The pricing is crazy. Note: Those links were from mobile, just click to go to the main site if you're having any issues.

u/collegenerf · 1 pointr/Nerf

There was a zombie strike sword, but it is a little different than the Marauder

u/Thurgood_Marshall · 1 pointr/MensLib

On a related note, I grew up playing with a dollhouse and dressing up.

My nephews now play with the same 30 year old wooden dollhouse. The four year old got a cooking set for christmas, the two year old got a play cleaning set (their dad does all the cleaning). Still the older one once told me he didn't like 'boy colors' and I had to tell them there was no such thing. Sucks that parents can encourage boys to play with what they want and still get gender norm pressure.

u/stealingyourpixels · 1 pointr/cosplay

For the guns, buy the Star Lord nerf guns and repaint them.

u/elsewhereorbust · 1 pointr/shutupandtakemymoney

Amazon link without the referral tag.
For the lazy: $150 for 4 laser tag guns. 4.6/5.0 stars

u/Rubyheart255 · 1 pointr/pokemongo

While you are correct, I don't think this is a hard limit just yet. I wouldn't be surprised if they somehow added bluetooth into the actual cartridge (and then would need some sort of adapter for digital copies).

This claims to be able to sync with the games, so there must be some way of sending/reading data.

Pokémon Z-Ring Set

Although, come to think about it, this seems to be pretty darn close to what OP wants.

u/theblackxranger · 1 pointr/pokemon

Let me introduce you to these too:
Z-Crystals and Z-Ring set

u/mintchocolate22 · 1 pointr/WiiUHacks

Hello, I have a HORI ps4 Mini gamepad which I got here. This controller works on the PS4 and PC just fine, so I would think it would work with HID to VPAD, but its not being recognized. Is there a way to fix this? Thanks!

u/fredewio · 1 pointr/StreetFighter

Do you know the Hori mini game pad for PS4? for some reason it's really hard to do two consecutive qcb motions (for CA etc.) consistently. I wonder if I got a defective product and if there is a way to fix it?

u/1sleepyshadow · 1 pointr/teslamotors

I've read that as well but since I have a ps4 I was hoping to get something I could use for both. I saw a post from someone that said the ps4 mini controllers worked for them but these look small for my hands and cost almost as much as a duel shock.


I was hoping for someone with some experience would point me to a dual shock that works. I'm also hoping Tesla adds bluetooth for controllers in the future.

u/dannyapplesauce · 1 pointr/RocketLeague

Not sure what console you're on, but there's this controller for PS4 that I already have in my shopping cart for my unborn child lmao. Wife is like 20 weeks pregnant and I'm like 3-4 years ahead of the curve. I can't wait to play rocket league (cuz i'll still be playing) with him.

u/Dinierto · 1 pointr/gpdxd

How about something smaller like

u/wekilledbambi03 · 1 pointr/DestinyTheGame

Might be late now, but they make a smaller controller for smaller hands/kids. I got one for my kid when she was 3. Still too big for her. But a 6-8 year old should have no problem.

u/weebae · 1 pointr/PS4Deals

Your post has been removed for the following reason(s):


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u/Myvenom · 0 pointsr/Nerf

The zombie strike ones. I think they're like $12 on Amazon:
Nerf Zombie Strike Blade Toy

u/foam_data · 0 pointsr/Nerf

The Zombie Strike sword is available on amazon,

Obviously not as big as the Marauder. Better still buy a good quality LARP sword.

u/SquiffSquiff · -1 pointsr/Parenting

I looked into this and basically there isn't any research on mobile apps. It's all based on TV viewing which I would argue is not directly comparable. There are a lot of blowhards with strong opinions. There's a decent article with sources on the BBC here. Some people have the TV on all the time 'in the background' in a way that I don't see so much with mobile apps, time sponging as they are. Bear this in mind with regard to TV studies, also that slack jawed torpor that TV viewers have compared to interacting with an app or game.

I don't have formal expertise. I have a kid aged 18 months. My kid gets taken out every day for at least an hour in the real, outside world and interact with both parents at home.
Not yet speaking but significant receptive vocabulary, e.g. knows parts of the body, partially with assistance from a Fisher Price app. I think that people miss something important when they say 'oh, that kid spends too much time on an app. We didn't have that when I was a kid, it's bad for it, you should take them out to play more'. This is a completely different world from 40 years ago and a lot of it has moved into your phone or tablet.

Saying that you or I grew up without this stuff is utterly meaningless. I didn't have the TV on when I was small because we didn't actually have a TV. I can remember my parents getting their first TV when I was about 5 years old, it was someone else's cast off and did not work properly. Even when it did, it took several minutes to warm up and had analogue tuning that was VERY sensitive and always slipped. There were only 3 channels and you had to look in the newspaper or a special magazine for the programme listing. It was a very 'active' and deliberate activity, nothing like being able to watch a video easily today. It was the same story with children's music. All of this was on vinyl (later on tape also) and if we wanted to listen to something then this meant getting the record out of it's sleeve, out of the paper sleeve, cleaning it, turning the amp on, turning the record player on and then putting the record on. After 20 minutes you had to change sides- or your parents did if you were too little to be trusted with the record player. Later, when we did have a TV that mostly worked, my mother was very strict about what programmes she approved.

I did not have many expensive toys but the other children I knew (and their slightly younger siblings' toys when I was a bit older) weren't so very different in concept from things like some of the apps on my tablet. One I remember especially was the Fisher Price activity centre as shown here Yes, obviously it is physical rather than a touchscreen but the repetition and interaction is not so much different from some toddler/baby apps available today. It used to get fixed in baby's cots. What about the Fisher Price pull along phone?. It was very popular and you can still get a version of it today although few children would recognise it as a telephone given that nobody uses a phone like this today. Just like phones are touchscreen today, so are the apps. I remember also the Toy record player (music box with changeable discs) pictured in the first link and Toy TV - a wind up music box with a scrolling background. These were the types of toys most kids 'just played' with, often just winding it up and sitting there staring at it until it wound down, then doing the same thing again. I did this myself when I visited other peoples houses. I feel that interacting with a music or video app (e.g. YouTube kids) is at least as intellectual.

As a child I read childrens' comics and later newspapers and books. Today, I haven't bought a paper newspaper or book in years. It's a different world.

TL;DR There aren't any relevant studies for todller time spent on apps, it's all based on TV viewing which I would argue is quite different from negotiating within and between apps, something that I would consider today a life-skill.