Best primer paint according to redditors
We found 84 Reddit comments discussing the best primer paint. We ranked the 30 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 84 Reddit comments discussing the best primer paint. We ranked the 30 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
I've been using Army Painter primer since I have their paints as well. It's a few dollars more expensive but I've been pleased with it. It was my first time painting minis and figured I knew it would work with the paint.
https://www.amazon.com/CP3010-Uniform-Gray-Spray-Primer/dp/B005C3CXB4/
If you look up tutorials online, a lot of people do it without sanding! The key is getting a really good primer. The one I see most often recommended for ikea furniture is Zinnsser BIN.
Yes, you should. It looks like bare plastic without them.
For future builds, use a hobby knife (x-acto is fine, I assume you're probably American given the reference to comic-con) to scrape off the stubs to the part where they came off the parts tree. I can see several areas where the fit of the kit could've been improved by cleaning those parts up so they sit flush as they are supposed to.
For paint, I'd probably avoid Humbrol Acrylics (if you're in the US, they're not particularly easy to get) and they're' not great as paint. Tamiya is okay, but it's not great for brushpainting which you seem to want to do. If you have to, you can use this tutorial to see how to do it more effectively: https://zerobxu.wordpress.com/2008/03/10/hand-painting-with-tamiya-acrylics/
If you are just getting started, you might not want to buy an airbrush. In that case, there are two alternatives I can recommend:
If you are only brush painting, see this guide: http://www.finescale.com/how-to/articles/2007/02/basics-of-brush-painting
As for paint, Tamiya is...."okay." It's not great paint to brush and most people don't do very well with it. It's much more suited for airbrushing, but you can do it via the tutorial I referenced above.
An alternative would be to brush paint with Model Master Acrylics, which have very good self leveling properties that make brush strokes a bit less likely (also, for wide areas, use a wide brush, like around 1/4inch or so; if you want brushes, go to an art store like Dick Blick or whatever, and you can find some good ones there for a fairly low price. Look for Golden Talkon (orange/gold bristles) brushes, as they work quite well and are also cheap. They're a synthetic material. But frankly, watercolor and acrylic paint brushes will probably work fine.
If you use Model Master acrylic, be aware, you will need to purchase a can of sprayable primer, because otherwise, that paint will lift off the model as soon as you try to use masking tape to paint straight lines (like those red/gray panels on the snowspeeder.) I recommend a primer like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Surface-Primer-180ml-Spray-Tamiya/dp/B000BMXRUM. Primer helps give your final paint colors more grip on the final surface.
Then, use Model Master Acrylic, which is brushable, can be thinned with water, and has water cleanup. Enamels require special thinners/mineral spirit and smell bad, but some people like them.
Once you're done painting, you can use stickers, or use the waterslide decals that are included. If you use the waterslide decals, apply/spray/brush a coat of gloss over it.
Here's an example of something I brush painted (on a lark, but again, USE PRIMER) with model master acrylic about two years ago to show what results you can get.
A further description of the steps I went through to get that result with Model Master Acrylic is described in the two threads:
https://www.reddit.com/r/modelmakers/comments/2esizj/fa18e_1144_painted_entirely_with_hairy_sticks/
https://www.reddit.com/r/modelmakers/comments/2yzzms/brush_painted_1144_f18e_old_project_not_complete/
Additionally, please read the FAQ along the sidebar regarding basic tools, airbrush reviews, and other tips and tricks. Also, lots of tutorials on how to build models can be found on youtube. In your case, I'd be there's probably at least one or two if you just google "bandai 1/48 snowspeeder step by step" or something similar and it'll teach you more than you ever wanted to necessarily know about how to get better at this.
Congrats on your first build, and best of luck. And yes, pick up more models.
Try spray primers by The Army Painter- they offer a wide range of colours including "uniform grey" which could match your colour scheme.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005C3CXB4/ref=mp_s_a_1_32?qid=1414835784&sr=8-32
Things I've learned starting out:
Wash the miniatures. I found the easiest way was those little ziploc plastic containers. Warm dishsoapy water in them, throw a few minis in, scrub them with an old toothbrush, rinse them off and toss them into a second ziploc container filled with plain water. Then drain and refill that a few times to get all the soap out. Be careful you don't dump them down a drain.
Take them out of the warm fresh water and put em onto a plate with a paper towel or something to dry. I like to organize them into which model belongs to what at this point.
I invested on a sprue cutter and it has been WONDERFUL for me to remove pesky mold lines and the bigger tags sticking out of models. Also an xacto knife helps.
I got some cheap needle files from Harbor Freight and they've helped get the flash lines flush without any weirdness.
After your stuffs all pretty and moldline free I tend to toss it into a sonic cleaner because I work at a lab. It might be placebo but the industrial strength badass one at work seems to get clean and I mean... why not? But you can do the water and rinse again. Or even just do it once, after the mold line removal. (Side note: sonic cleaners are PRETTY RADICAL for removing paint from miniatures with some simple green. I love it. Saves me a lot of scrubbing.)
Anyway once its dry I personally use this glue and some stuff called green stuff to fill in gaps. Heres a tut showing the basic idea
Once they're assembled I use some good ol elmer's white glue on the bases and dip em in sand and shake them off. Tutorial that shows that
Then prime your stuff. Tons of tutorials about it and tons of everyone saying which is their favorite primer, spray or brush on, different types of primer, different brands. Some stand by Army Painter or Citadel. I've had good results with Rustoleum Ultra Cover 2x White primer. I've recently picked up some TAMIYA WHITE which I hear good things about. Trying them on some Morats tomorrow.
Lots of other good info has been posted too! I also just started probably, shit, 6 months ago, so this is stuff I've had to pick up and learn as I go.
This costs $7 with free 2-day shipping. I consider it a mandatory item to have when moving out.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-Patch-Plus-Primer-fl/dp/B00UY39TZ0/
Most painters have their preferences. I prefer Citadel but it's pricey. I've been using it ever since they were the only ones to offer spray primer and at this point I'm just used to how it reacts and know how to work with it well and IMO it's better quality. Army Painter spray primer is fine too though.
To my surprise, when researching primers on Amazon, I found that the Army Painter primer is only one dollar cheaper than the GW Citadel primer so in that case I would definitely go with Citadel. It has two negative reviews by people who haven't bought it and think it's too expensive even though the AP primer costs basically just as much, but I guess that's the anti-GW circlejerk for you.
Drop some PVA on a base, spread it around with a bush you don't care much about (stiff bristle works best).
I set the mini down inside a sandwich tupperware, pull some "washed dirt" or "driveway magic" as some call it, and cover the base in the stuff entirely, the more the merrier. Wiggle it a bit to fill in gaps, and leave to dry overnight.
After that night, I usually take a stiff bristle brush (or toothbrush, which I prefer), and scrape out any loose rocks and dust from the bases.
After the removal of stuff-that-didn't-stick-well, you're good to prime your miniatures as usual! GW stuff works awesome, but I like: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BMXRUM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Gray is easy to work UP from into brights, and DOWN from into darks. If you want to take it a step further and "pre-highlight" your models, prime white on top, grey in mid, and a splash of black around the feet (or any combination, if your color scheme is too light for black around feed, two-tone works well).
TLDR: Answer to your question, Glue -> Sand/Dirty -> Brushie Brushie -> Prime.
Use spray primer not paint.
I use this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-CP3001-Base-Primer/dp/B005WH3LVG
It's generally fine.
Sorry had the wrong wording its Tamiya Fine Primer
I guess i was thinking about (and still screwed up) the name of their glue i use
You are correct to paint the surfaces. I recommend a product like this.
The humidifiers you have chosen are too small. Get two, one for each side of your home. And get bigger ones. Maybe like this one.
I would also take pictures of the water condensing on the walls. Document everything you are having to do including the money you are having to spend to make your home "livable" and protect the property of the the landlord. Stay in communication with the landlord and ask if you can deduct some or all of these expenses from the rent since you are helping to prevent mold damage to the property. Mold is dangerous and it is nothing to mess around with. I don't know what the laws are where you live, but the landlord should be inclined to help with this problem.
If the problem persists or the landlord is not responsive it might be a good idea to find another place to live when your lease is finished.
Just want to make sure I get this correct. Are you referring to this https://www.amazon.com/Zinsser-Interior-Exterior-Primer-1-Quart/dp/B000BZX6B4 ?
Tamiya fine surface primer is a really thin primer that I'm using for my resin minis, does a good job of not filling in all the fine details.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000WS01E/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_Ef6TDbK9HYY3F
For acrylic you can use water as a thinner, or windex if you really want (some people use it to thin paint for airbrushing). For enamel you need turpenoid or paint thinner. Odorless turpenoid from an art store is good because it's not stinky, but you could use turpentine or whatever.
I'm not sure basic enamel will work as a primer-- is it a fairly matte finish? I like Tamiya's spraycan primer-- it's very fine-grained matte paint and sticks to all kinds of stuff.
Have you bought any paint yet at all? If not, get a spraycan of Tamiya primer, and use all acrylic for everything else. It's easy to clean up and won't give you headaches if you don't have good ventilation, and you'll know nothing's going to eat anything else and you can mix everything with everything else... Thin with water, clean your brushes and stuff with water, keep it simple.
This is the primer:
http://www.amazon.com/Gray-Surface-Primer-180ml-Spray/dp/B000BMXRUM
One can will last for 4 or 5 1/35 tanks.
If the odour is trapped in the walls I know that certain paints have been developed to "lock" the nicotine and smoke smell away.
I know my parents have bought this stuff after my grandmother died and they had to renovate her apartment so it could be sold/leased.
I did find some links. A professional painter explains what he does to salvage rooms that have been heavily smoked in.
https://www.duluxtradepaintexpert.co.uk/editorial/nicotine-nightmare
He talks about a primer that blocks the nicotine. I found something that sounds right on amazon for reference: https://www.amazon.com/Maximum-Blocking-Interior-Primer-1-gallon/dp/B007XH9PKO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1503859515&sr=8-2&keywords=Primer+Sealer+Nicotine
> Natures miracle then Paint over with kilz to trap odors
Should I just dump something like this in a bucket with a couple gallons of water and spread it around the floor?:
https://www.amazon.com/Natures-Miracle-Remover-24-Ounce-P-5553/dp/B001LUO1K8/
Or should I use a wet vac with something else?
For the Kilz, does this work?:
https://www.amazon.com/KILZ-Maximum-Blocking-Interior-1-gallon/dp/B007XH9PKO/
Isn't there a risk of this pealing up underneath in the future? We may use wider planks, which would require glue. Not sure how well that would bond with the paint being on top.
Gorgeous.
I bought a big piece of walnut last week and plan to make a simple picture frame out of it, was wondering how to finish it. Can you tell me a little more about "tung oil"? Is this what you used?
> http://www.amazon.com/Minwax-47500-Tung-Finish-Pint/dp/B002KHRNLU/
I like the look you got but may want something a little darker and less saturated, just exploring options. Again, kudos, pretty amazing work for a first furniture piece!
I started out using just water, and I eventually started using this mixture which is a cheap alternative to GW's lahmian medium:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ad7bNDfS3fI
I made a big batch of that and transfer it into a dropped bottle as needed. 1:1 paint to medium for base coats, 1:3 or 1:4 paint to medium for layering depending on the color. I think in most cases using water is "fine," but when going thinner for layering, I found this mixture helps the paint to still behave more like paint than water when it's super thin.
For me the trick to learning smoother and more vibrant layering has been "if you can see the difference after one layer, your paint was too thick." Once I drilled that into my head and trusted that it'd look better over a few thin coats, I leveled up considerably.
For primer, I just use regular old spray can Rustoleum white, black, or grey (or all 3 for a zenithal highlight) depending on the size and detail level of the model.
I have worked on both plastic and metal minis and found no difference -- a quick spray of primer, and they both behave the same cause you're just painting on the primer anyway.
AFAIK, most plastics have a coating that protects it, but also prevents paints from adhering well. To get paint to bond to it you'll want to scuff up the surface with a rough material (like a scouring pad from the back of a kitchen sponge. Or fine sandpaper if you're brave).
After roughing it up, wipe it clean, then spray on a plastic primer (it's basically a "spray paint" that's just alcohol and thinned out glue, generally clear or with some white color), and then finally, apply the final paint once that dries.
> Park it in the sun and leave a window or two cracked.
Its December/January in Minnesota, what sun? And the camper has been skirted thus it can't move.
>but I doubt you let the water boil for very long before you use it.
Its under 3 minutes and its ready to go. Since this week's weather isn't -8 when I wake up to make breakfast I have been opening the door and let my boot keep it open for a few minutes after the tea water is set up.
It also helps to open the door when I burn a pop tart that I shouldn't be eating.
Tonight I have to set up the crockpot to make steel cut oats overnight. It back down to -temps and single digits for a couple days then into the 20s again this weekend. I keep my eye on forecasts to plan what I will do in the camper to minimize the moisture levels.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00113UKQY/ref=s9_dcacsd_dcoop_bw_c_x_7_w
2896 B-I-N Shellac Base Primer & Sealer Stain Killer 00904 (1 Quart)
Or the Zinsser primer that is also a sealer and a stain killer. I used this first then painted the walls in an attempt to keep mold from taking hold inside the camper, inside the walls I am trying to figure out.
The more I read on windows and their R-value the more it seems unless they are uber expensive I will just have to deal with heat loss through windows. And plan to make other parts of the shell of the THOW air tight with a greater R-value.
I do feel fortunate that I have a camper that has aluminum siding, real wood studs and wood paneling. Not the fiberglass & vinyl shit on the newer campers and yes they have mold inside on the walls next to doors and windows....
Brush on or spray?
Always use spray.
My preference is Tamiya grey fine primer.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BMXRUM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_16BBDb3Z3AVA1
I've never had an issue with it. One thin coat will do it. You're just putting in on there to help the paint have something to adhere to smoothly. That's all unless you really care about what color your base cost goes over.
That's why I go with grey personally.
Also dont spray when it's raining or high humidity. It screws with the paint.
Its actually under an inch (just measured). There really isnt much depth as all. Would one of those 4-in-1 filler/spatula/sanders work with this you think? Since it's not that deep?
Tamyia makes a good primer in rattlecan and handbrush; while you're there, pick up some ultra thin cement - it's awesome for seam fusing.
In my house we ripped up carpet in the basement that the previous owners cats peed on and the only thing we found that got rid of the smell was we painted the concrete floor with kilz odor blocker and it worked like magic.
KILZ Restoration Maximum Stain and Odor Blocking Interior Latex Primer/Sealer, White, 1-gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007XH9PKO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-.EADb070PHDM
Also in a basement I'd recommend luxury vinyl plank instead of laminate because of it being waterproof and you won't ever have to worry about any smells from moisture.
zinsser odor killing primer
This is what you need.
Edit: or a big ass headboard if you're in a rental.
You'll want to use a primer! Don't worry, it took me forever to figure that out. Basically acrylic paint isn't made to stick on plastic, and it'll come off super easy. Primers are paints made to stick on things like plastic. That means that you're coating your model in a material that accepts your acrylic paint better than plastic. You can get primer from any home improvement store, but here's some links to some on amazon. They all work just fine, you just need to make sure it says "primer" somewhere on the can.
​
https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-249846-Painters-Purpose-12-Ounce/dp/B002BWOS94/
https://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-CP3001-Base-Primer/dp/B005WH3LVG/
https://www.amazon.com/Citadel-Colour-Chaos-Primer-Undercoat/dp/B000A5CHHE/
Paint the concrete with a mold killing additive, then use your tile:
https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-276087-Killing-Primer-Quart/dp/B00K7FEQPI
What can I use to remove tamiya spray primer ?
I'm new to using rattle cans and the pieces I did last night have some pooling.
that green things ar the same thing that u hold in ur hand in the last picture a screw plug just severely damaged and deteriorated. remove them with a pair of pliers and fill those holes with https://www.amazon.com/3M-Patch-Plus-Primer-fl/dp/B00UY39TZ0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1506342376&sr=8-1&keywords=hole+filler then drill the holes where u want for the new rod.
If u cant remove easily the screw plugs, use the drill on them to help them soften.
Fellow T1N owner! Cut any holes in roof and ensure there are no leaks before putting anything nice down on the floor :]
Also, I can't fully vouch for it yet as I haven't had any disasters.. but before you cover that wood, you may want to coat it in something which protects from moisture/mildew/rot.
I also redid my floor but during the process was wishing I kept the factory floor intact and just laid something on top. The method I chose was damn tedious. I did get to extend the floor halfway into the side door step though
Thoughts on this? The Army Painter Color Primer, Matt Black, 400 ml, 13.5 oz - Acrylic Spray Undercoat for Miniature Painting https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005WH3LVG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BGyRDbSSZ88E8
You can use a primer like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Mapei-Prim-Grip-Promoting-Primer/dp/B01MXO9KMD
Then tile the base with some nice slate and do some decorative stone facing.
Kilz is good, we used Zinsser:
http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-276087-Killing-Primer-Quart/dp/B00K7FEQPI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463426777&sr=8-1&keywords=zinsser+mold+killing+primer
My husband, son and I just moved into a temporary place while my hubby is in school and I HATE it. So, while we stock my house some stuff has to be done. It has the terrible wood paneling and old 70's green sink and bathtub. It's a cheap arrangement to help us save money to get a house after he finishes with his schoolin'. I NEED something to make it more cheerful in here. I plan to paint the walls, but I need primer and I heard this was good stuff. And if at all possible, this shit. Apparently the people who lived here before us had no clue what they were doing with ANYTHING so there's shit that needs fixin'.
How about this stuff? https://www.amazon.com/Adhesion-High-Bonding-Interior-Exterior-Primer/dp/B00J9Q58VC/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1510099045&sr=8-8&keywords=latex+primer
It would depend on how large an area of painting you’re doing. If you’re doing let’s say a model car body, you’d have to it in coats. So you’ll have to research how to paint brush coats with Tamiya paints since I’m sure you’ll have to thin the paint to some degree. And for priming, Tamiya sells them in spray cans. . As well as other other colors .
You don’t have to buy the sprays on amazon of course. Check with your local hobby stores and see if they’ve got them. I know my local Hobby Lobby carries the primer cans.
Hope this helps, bud. Good luck.
https://imgur.com/a/QqzTB9s heres my paint job i did the other day. the line at the side is quite scuffed to split the colours due to slightly dodgy tape use and the mouse buttons are a little weird feeling due to messing up my use of primer (spraying too close) but the rest i'm happy with and it feels not too different to the matte finish the mouse game with. the way i did it was i sanded it down just with some sandpaper i had at home, then used one good layer of primer paint ( https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B001W03PSQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) then painted on a few layers of paint for each of my colours ( https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B003X1DCJY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B003X1B9UI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) and finished it off with this matte clear finish ( https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B006O6D8FS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ). i'm sure you don't need these exact paints but they worked well for me and i've still got loads left for doing more mice if i want which is a nice bonus.
this primer works well for me
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002YTW8K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
here is a finished paintjob
http://imgur.com/gallery/RucQV2x
I'm using Tamiya Fine Surface Primer for Plastic and Metal.
This one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BMXRUM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Spray on primer is pretty ideal, though with those humidity levels idk how the final outcome will be affected. My guess is it'll be fine, just longer drying times.
Of all the primers I've tried, this has been the best.
We had old brown cabinets and no time to do a renovation. So we took the doors and hardware off, cleaned the hardware and scrubbed the doors. So, much, grease. After that we used “Stix primer”
INSL-X SXA11009A-01 Stix Acrylic Waterborne Bonding Primer, 1 Gallon, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KX8NV7Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1xdvDb5YCCY1H
It really made it easy to go right over the cabinets without having to sand everything. We then replaced the handles and it brought complete new life to a very dated kitchen. Paint does amazing things.
You can use ANY paint, if you have a good primer to work with. I suggest sanding the hell out of it, then use a bonding primer:
https://www.amazon.com/Zinsser-Interior-Exterior-Primer-1-Quart/dp/B000BZX6B4
After that, you'd be golden.
https://www.amazon.com/Minwax-47500000-Tung-Finish-pint/dp/B002KHRNLU/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=tung+oil&qid=1564354078&s=hi&sr=1-6
Would this be any good?
>EDIT 2: I haven't yet ordered any primer. Any advice on what colour to use (White/Grey/Black?) and what brands would be best?
Army Painter is a common spray primer that a lot of people use.
Another tip that I have is to not forget the model base. You will often see photos were people didn't even bother to fix the random blotches caused when painting the figure, which is distracting and makes the whole model look worse. It's very easy to just paint the base black, but it's also very easy to glue some junk on there and take your model up a level. Even just some dirt/sand, bits of leaves or bark & small rocks. You don't need to buy stuff. Just go outside with a couple baggies. Get some glue put down and stick the stuff on, maybe with some tweezers. The stuff won't stick where you didn't put glue. Here's a good example of basic sand & rock basing which is very achievable by a novice.
The picture won’t load for me but if it has a shiny finish but it has a nice smooth finish (even if shiny) you can probably do this with no sand paper at all...
-Clean it really good, wipe it down good with TSP Substitute All Purpose Cleaner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZRSMDK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XQJGDbPBFTM4J
-Once it’s all dried coat it with one decently thick coat of BIN primer, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00113UKQY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6SJGDb0MM32CE
Make sure it’s a real shellac-base, synthetics are no good. Also keep yourself well ventilated, some folks don’t like the smell but it never bothered me
-Paint it, with GOOD paint, silly to say but it matters a lot, my advice is use Benjamin Moore advance, it just will dry and harden the best of what I’ve dealt with, you’ll want to do two coats of paint no matter how good the first coat looks.
-Enjoy and start looking around at other items you can slap some paint on because BIN primer is a gift from the shellac gods
Sometimes.
3M also has a solution for that lol
https://www.amazon.com/3M-Patch-Plus-Primer-fl/dp/B00UY39TZ0/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=wall+filler&qid=1568684115&sr=8-4
Plastikote 25606 Twist Spray 400ML Plastic Primer, Clear https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00I8MILXU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_v92IDbY2Y0B0F
Agreed, bleach is a great way to attack mold. Once you have done this, let the wood dry really well before doing anything with it. Alternatively, you could try using some mold killing primer: https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-276087-Killing-Primer-Quart/dp/B00K7FEQPI
So for a frame like the PG strike freedom, if I wanted to paint the inner frame so that it isn't crap gold, I'd prime that and then spray it with gold paint? Can I do it with inner frame assembled or would that run the risk of the joints getting too stiff?
And does it matter what color the primer color is, be it gray or white? I assume the tamiya primer is ideal (as linked below):
https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-Surface-Primer-White-180ml/dp/B0000WS01E/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1487211789&sr=8-4&keywords=tamiya+primer
And a side question, someone told me acrylic paint is ideal for beginners as its less of a pain to work with. However I assume this is regarding brush painting. I notice stuff like the tamiya gold spray is lacquer. Does it matter? And is it bad if you primer, lacquer gold, and then paint some sort of acrylic on top of the gold?
Sorry for all the questions, but thanks for taking the time to answer!
So I'm looking into my first project that's more than a straight build. Specifically I'm thinking of a recolor of a Kyrios from orange to green (college/workplace colors, and fortunately white is our secondary).
The right order is Primer, paint, panel line, topcoat right? And then just topcoat for the pieces I don't recolor?
Also on topcoating, do you spray that on each external piece individually, or on the whole unit assembled?
Lastly, if I get into weathering effects, that's after painting and before topcoat right?
My batch of cheap Leos finally came in, so I have a few grunt units to mess with.
Not sure if this will work
Zinsser 03504 Cover Stain Interior/Exterior Oil Primer Sealer, 1-Quart, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BZX6B4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_f6.YBbDFAK58C
If you're not into painting - the first bundle is fine if you're willing to put the money into it, the other bundles are too much for a beginner IMO
Something like:
https://www.amazon.com/Miniatures-Highlighting-Miniature-Army-Painter/dp/B01MTXRU2L/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1518146756&sr=8-4&keywords=army+painter+kit
Is a cheaper entry point - look for something in the same category as this, the primary colours + a few extras, a shade and a standard sized paint brush
This way you can try out painting and if you enjoy it, you can add to it from there, while not investing as heavily as the suggested bundles in the link are asking
Another option ~
https://www.amazon.com/Games-Workshop-60-22-Base-Paint/dp/B00KOCXDT4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1518147023&sr=8-2&keywords=citadel+paint+kit
Any paints from Army painter/Citadel/Vallejo are great places to start, just get whatever's got the best deal on at the time.
Only other suggestion would be to get a spray undercoat such as
https://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-CP3001-Base-Primer/dp/B005WH3LVG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518147186&sr=8-1&keywords=miniature+undercoat+spray
Undercoat sprays make painting a mini MUCH easier and MUCH quicker, however, if you are only painting the bases and not any detail on the mini, you can get away with no undercoat spray
(You can get cheaper sprays but I find when you're new, picking one model paint brand and sticking to it to start with makes things easier to manage)
I've just grabbed links from Amazon, but you can find these products all over the place
I don't see any significant structural damage. I would make sure the area is as dry as it's going to get, and then cover the entire area with:
Zinsser 00908 B-I-N Primer Sealer – White, 1- Pint https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001ARJK94/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_FUgKzbDMSE18B.
We recently used it on a home office remodel that we did going from carpet to laminate that had been soaked in cat urine. One coat of that paint and all odor was gone. Good luck!
So, I'm planning to fully paint my next kit (HG Barbatos) and I'm wondering what paint product to use. Is this Tamiya TS-27 Matte White the typical white gundam color, like on the barbatos? Does it matter if it's matte or not, or is there a regular white color for the spray paint?
Also, I plan to use this white primer. Is this okay? It says "fine", but the gray tamiya primer doesn't say that so is this different in an important way? I hand paint in acrylics if that information is important.
Also, bonus question, should you use white or gray primer before hand painting/spraying on red? I assume white?
Thank you for the help friends, sorry for yet another barrage of questions, but it is much appreciated!!!
You'll actually need an adhesive primer. It sticks to the slick surface allowing you to paint over the primer. Warning: not any primer will do. Get something like this, or go to Lowe's and ask for an adhesive primer.
I used /u/AgentOrange96's v2 Painting Guide as a base and did a few modifications based on material availability.
Initially I did some light/medium sanding of the rubberised coating over the case so the paint will adhere better, starting with 400gr paper then finishing with 2000gr to finish up. I was a bit worried about not removing the paint completely, but it's cured pretty well without any problems. I then used Rust-oleum White Primer for 3 layers, waiting about 15 minutes between them and coating sparsely. Then did 3 layers of Plasti-kote Matt White leaving about an hour in between. Was touch dry after an hour, did another 3 layers in the same fashion, then left it alone for about 4 days to let the paint cure.
In hindsight, I will probably add a clear coat at some point: although I've been careful to not do anything silly, there is a minor scuff just by the numpad enter key that was caused by something. The matt coat it currently has is pretty tough, but no harm in adding extra protection :)
I'll second "use a hobby primer", though I am much less specific about it than /u/DathNader26. I use Army Painter primer, though I've used Citadel and Privateer before too. The only real rule is that if you use a color besides black or white, you must use a matching color to touch up any exposed areas. Citadel Dawnstone and Army Painter Uniform Grey are different enough that I can notice them if I change greys over a model. If you spray with Dawnstone, that needs to be your only grey paint for that model.
As far as other paints, once again the rule of consistency applies. I started painting with Citadel paints, so I mostly use Citadel so that my army looks consistent.
Since you're starting new, I may recommend Army Painter. I use a couple of their paints. They are as good as Citadel and substantially cheaper. The only Citadel product that I would strongly recommend is their ink washes. They are kind of pricey, but they are great and have awesome effects. It took me years to discover the magic of ink washes, so let me strongly point you in their direction right now.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002KHRNLU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_3mhODb4XGB5BA
Since no one has actually answered your question, I used grey Rust-Oleum primer for my Gloomhaven minis (Amazon link).
Now, I'm not 100% sure if this is the exact same one that I use, but it looks awfully similar. All I know is that it goes on smooth, doesn't obscure tiny details (as long as you don't heavily spray a single area), and dries nicely. I also have a white can of Rust-Oleum primer, but I'm not too impressed with that one. I'm thinking about giving the white Tamiya primer a try. Maybe that'll be better.
I tape the bottom of my figures to a paint stirring stick and then spray the primer on to them in quick, short bursts, spraying about 6 inches away from them and moving in a lateral sweep. Turn and rotate the stirring stick so that you hit all angles on the mini. Once finished, set aside in a dry room for at least 24 hours before you begin painting.
My favorite prime is expensive but it is literally the best I've ever used, by miles.
Tamiya gray primer. They make a white and black I think. They are far and away better than anything you can buy at lowes. Comes at a premium price point though. You can pick up a can for like 6 bucks at a hobby lobby with their 40% coupon though.
Like everyone here said, the easy and save way would to be to get some vinyl decals. However, if you are dead set on painting, then it's not too hard to do. you're going to have to disassemble the controller. From there sand the controller, this gives the primer something to bite on to. once everything is nice and sanded take your primer (I recommend this.) and spray in light, even coats and let cure for the time on the can, and maybe a few hours longer. Once you're happy with the primer, take your spraypaint and apply in light, thin coats. Remember to let the paint dry fully between coats.
Once you are happy with the color and it has dried for the recommended time on the can, go ahead and choose your choice of clear coat (gloss, semi-gloss, or matte. also krylon works best for this) and apply in thin layers like you did the primer and paint. after it has sat for the directions on the can. you can now put the controller back together and test everything out. Assuming that you didnt mess up putting the controller back together, you now have a painted controller.
I don't have carpets and for some reason, the dogs themselves don't smell. I think its the way they "live" that causes the smell...whatever it is they do. I'm more or less doing this as a favor for a friend so I'm trying to not evict her...
would something like this work:
https://www.amazon.com/Zinsser-00908-B-I-N-Primer-Sealer/dp/B001ARJK94/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467859272&sr=8-1&keywords=odor+primer