Best pumps & accessories for labs according to redditors
We found 32 Reddit comments discussing the best pumps & accessories for labs. We ranked the 17 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 32 Reddit comments discussing the best pumps & accessories for labs. We ranked the 17 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Hey guys as a heads up. In the lab if we make silicone we always degas the mixture before pouring. To degas just put the silicone after mixing into a closed container and pull vacuum. I think even a cheap aspirator will pull enough vacuum to work. Pull until the bubbles stop than you're good to go.
https://www.amazon.com/Dynalon-312635-Faucet-Aspirator-Vacuum/dp/B004AHL77E
https://www.amazon.com/Nalgene-6140-0010-Aspirator-Polypropylene-Threading/dp/B003OBYNBO
Both look promising. Google degassing silicone for more it's a common technique in soft litho.
Edit: For a chamber just get a plastic dessicator. They aren't that expensive : https://www.amazon.com/United-Scientific-55204-Polypropylene-Polycarbonate/dp/B00ES3GPMM
Edit2: Cus degassing silicone just looks so pretty : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bbSvzD8g_S0
Edit3: Decent part combo for degassing
https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Chamber-Urethanes-Silicones-Epoxies/dp/B00KSWL29I/
https://www.amazon.com/Single-Stage-Rotary-Economy-Vacuum-Refrigerant/dp/B012CFTYX4/ref=pd_bxgy_236_img_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1N0WKYM5MHVXTF9FVB8K
Remember keep the vacuum so that it slowly degasses you do not want it to bubble over and all into your chamber.
Vac systems are getting shockingly Cheap. Vac Purge Kit
Depends on how much vacuum you want. You can suck a significant amount of air out of a bottle with your mouth by sealing your lips over the mouth.
With a small handheld vacuum pump you can create even more.
With a home food sealing machine, you can create about the best vacuum you're going to get without a much more expensive pump. Interestingly enough, the "vacuum" these machines produce is very near the atmospheric pressure on Mars.
Vacuum is dangerous if you put anything living into it, or if you try to draw a vacuum on some container that doesn't have the structural integrity to hold it, it will implode.
If there is running water these pull a strong vacuum, and cost nearly nothing.
https://www.amazon.com/Nalgene-6140-0010-Aspirator-Polypropylene-Threading/dp/B003OBYNBO
How about rigging a hobby servo to a stopcock like one of these.
Using Amazon and Medlabsupply for ease (two stop shop). I havent found much better prices (maybe a few cents..) in my homebrew career. My setup is a bit more expensive than whats listed lol.
Equipment
Consumables
Sterilization - dry heat stove method
https://www.amazon.com/Nalgene-6140-0010-Aspirator-Polypropylene-Threading/dp/B003OBYNBO
cost me 10$ in adapters from home depot to get it to hook up to my sink. works great pulls down to -25hg
You really do need to get all these factors right for light colored oil. The colder the initial wash, the cleaner the material, the fresher the material, the quicker the wash... the less necessary filtration will be. That said, if you need to filter it, pouring through a coffee filter doesn't really do much for color.
Take it easy on the AC, it can color your solution a bit red. Use it sparingly just to remove the green.
Freeze everything. If you can run the filter inside a freezer, do it.
-Bentonite catches water soluble stuff like lipids and waxes.
-Activated Carbon bonds to the chlorophyll
-DE/Celite catches the AC which holds onto the chlorophyll, along with other smallest contaminants
-The filter disk retains all this material in the funnel
Edit: Here
Also this
HSH-Flo 12VDC 6W 8L/min 120Kpa... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074W35XZK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share.
Orient Men's Automatic Stainless... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ON8XFSO?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I wouldn’t say there’s a lot of debate over decarbing. It’s pretty well agreed upon that if you’re going to put your extract in a cart then you need to decarb so that you 1. have an extract that’s fluid enough to wick on your cart and 2. prevent your extract from crystallizing in the cart.
If you wanna take some of the guess work out of decarbing, don’t do it before your extraction. Once you have your extract you can decarb it at 200f and instead of using a timer you can watch it bubble. As the extract decarb a you can visually see the carbon dioxide bubbling out. So once almost all of the bubbling is gone, your extract is finished decarbing and you should have a less dark concentrate.
Dry ice is what you want. Not liquid nitrogen. Nitrogen will freeze your got damn hand off. So will dry ice, but not if you’re wearing some thick gloves haha it’s like 2 dollars a pound where I live and for something small scale you should use too much.
Vacuum filtration is a MUST. You don’t necessarily need an expensive vacuum pump for this, instead you can get away with a faucet aspirator . They are pretty cheap and let you get enough of a vacuum to filter. You can get away without vacuum filtering on high micron filters without a lot of sediment, but if you want to do low micron like you mentioned or get into carbon filtering gravity filtration can take hours.
Those liquifiers can contain some real garbage in them. Pg, Vg, PEG, mct oil (mineral oil based on some independent testing of True Terpenes supposed “100% natural terpenes blend”) and who knows what else because MOST OF THEM WON’T TELL YOU. It’s a proprietary blend. If you can afford it get a blend of terpenes. Floraplex actually offers msds sheets for their products, so you know what’s in it. Mass terpenes does not do this, but they get a lot of support from the community along with Mr. Extractor. Mass terpenes and floraplex are quite affordable too!
Vacuum chamber and vacuum pump. They sell them separately or as a kit. Expensive, but a game changer with bubbles.
Just a vacuum. My chamber is aluminum and is a bit more expensive setup than a food dehydrator, but I bet a small chamber could be printed, which would bring the cost down. Another substantial cost is the pump itself. It MIGHT be possible to do this with a hand operated vacuum pump if most of the void space could be elliminated within the chamber, maybe with rice or a desiccant. Basically you want most of the air out when you start so you don't have to pump much.
In summary, with a printed vacuum chamber (would need to be well engineered to prevent implosion which would not be fun) and a hand pump this could actually be quite a bit cheaper than alternative methods. It's definitely safer for your spool and oven, lol!
Oh, and an interesting thing about the desiccant: It gets quite warm when it's adsorbing moisture, but not nearly warm enough to melt any 3d printer filament that I'm aware of. This warmth should make the filament dry out even faster. It also will keep the pressure in the chamber lower since it will adsorb water vapor surprisingly quickly.
Now if I can get an analytical balance we'll be in business!
Here you go, I use this one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F85W81N/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Ammosorb is useless. It's really only useful if you live next to a swamp or abattoir.
You really need to positively ID the NOx, and quantify how much.
A Draegar tube like this will work.
You also need to purchase a hand pump that fits the tubes. You can probably find a cheaper used hand pump on ebay.
Google the Draegar manual and it will explain how to use the pump, how to do the measurement and how to convert the reading into a concentration.
People are talking about "venturi vacuum generators" which can draw up a vacuum using the compressor you have. Eg https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ENZMBS6/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_.ddLDbJNZ2SV8
It seems there is a tradeoff between flow rate and vac pressure so you might be able to find one with a high flowrate. These devices are not as cheap as you would think though . . The price is comparable to an actual vacuum pump. However the biggest advantage is that the venturi doesn't use up or burn off vacuum oil which is stinky and coats everything.
oh shit I ordered these three:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M25S2JS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MDPP0BF/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DG8O594/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
What do you think about:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DG8O594/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_6y6Szb0TACEKS
And
http://www.liquidations-outlet.com/1cc--22-G-x-1-Luer-Lok-syringe-with-needle-Syringe-Needle-Combo-50pk_p_972.html (and 25G to pin)
Hard to tell if it's closed or open cell foam. But it's not just the foam itself, if the surface is rough you're likely to get some leakage. If a dog hair or something happens to be across the surface, you'll get leakage. Normally these things are insignificant but with a tiny pump it can become a factor.
You mentioned drawers and doors, but actually I'm not convinced you need the foam edges for that. They are relatively smooth surfaces unless there is some sort of raised or embossed pattern that needs to be conformed around - that's what the foam is great for. Plus drawers/doors are usually painted or lacquered so it cuts down on the surface roughness a bit.
That said, I'm starting to get the picture with the info you added. It would be hard to stick an air compressor on most RC vehicles! So the venturi is probably out. The diaphragm pump will do what you need, as long as you don't need it to be fast and you have a decent seal. Also I did some quick googling, there are a number of pumps like this and this as well. Higher pressure than your diaphragm pump but a little less flowrate. You can always double up on the pumps too.
This one claims ~-12psi @ 0.7 CFM, which should be more than enough to accomplish what you need.
Although the total tubing length will probably be pretty short on an RC vehicle, keep the tube as large as you can. The lower the pressure gets, the larger your tubing needs to be to effectively move air. If you use a tiny tube - even a short one - you can have massive losses of vacuum pressure. So -12psi at the pump becomes -5 psi at the cup. If you only have one cup and there is no leakage this won't be a big issue but it will still take longer to achieve a seal.
At work we use cups from Piab, Festo, SMC, etc... but they're not always easy to source if you have to work through a distributor. Here are a couple sources I found though:
Vacmotion
Piab No idea where you're located, you can find a distributor with easy online ordering if you look for a bit.
you probably need more material and a vacuum chamber.https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W8ZU5FK/?coliid=IKPZI52V796YI&colid=3HUBTLT676WDO&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
this is one i have on my list for my dice making project for later. You want to put your unpored resin into the chamber for 20 minutes, then put in your dice for 30 minutes. Always put something under your molds. you can leave the dice to cure for 20 some hours in the chamber turned off. If you want my dice amazon list i'll gladly hand it over.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCiocf36TFwHWWtyfajz6Aqg
This guy gives lots of good tips.
I use this vacuum chamber
BACOENG 3 Gallon Vacuum Chamber Kit with 3.6 CFM 1 Stage Vacuum Pump HVAC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W8ZU5FK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_OfvSxxeU3FZKP
And I use this pressure pot
California Air Tools 365B 5-Gallon Pressure Pot https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008FQEC6Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_GIVbOaA1tAb1O
I also had to get some fittings and modifications for the pressure pot but I can't recall exactly what. I like quick disconnect hoses and fittings and the pressure pot didn't come with anything.
To be honest you don't really need a vacuum chamber, depending on the application. Smooth-on Smooth Cast 325, 326, or 327 are all low viscosity and don't seem to bubble as much. You can get by with just a pressure pot and an air compressor.
For the love of all that is holy, though: PLEASE WEAR GOGGLES. I can't stress it enough. Resin in your eye will ruin your vision. Also, when dealing with pressure you're always running the risk of a breach and even dust at 50PSI can ruin your vision.
Surprisingly not really unlike Oregon. Where we have hundreds of farms, and ridiculously cheap flower, but so little oversight that they grew so much weed that there’s like literally a million pounds just sitting there waiting to either be sold, turned into oil, or go bad.
I’ve always wanted to come to Israel but my health hasn’t allowed for it. I’m kind of out of town Modern Orthodox. My sister managed to get out of here though. She went to seminary at Neve Yerushalayim when she was 17, moved to Manhattan, and has only come back a few times in the 6 years since. Oregon is too treif for her now lol.
I do know some people there who have made small amounts of their own though. It’s not something I recommend doing if you live in a city, but something that I imagine you could get away with easily by driving off into the desert or something. And everything necessary other than the herb, including the butane is available on Amazon. This is a good starting point.
Ablaze Stainless Steel Open End Tube Kit 45 Gram (No Tripod) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MS0BTGG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kv2VCb729DWJS
With one of those, all you’d need is butane, which is also available on Amazon.
If you want to take your product a step further, you can add a quality vacuum purger that comes with a pump for right around $150 now. All in all very little expense required to make something very valuable in places where it’s hard to find.
BACOENG 1 1/2 Gallon Vacuum Chamber Kit with 3.6 CFM 1 Stage Vacuum Pump HVAC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W8Z1QTE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6x2VCbY6470FJ
Yes please be safe and use a Purge to be sure extracts are clean.
I've done a dozen+ extractions with this one no problem
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KI29F6K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mGGJDbCGRRQSN
I've been using 2 different ones... a venturi and I purchased a chinese pump with a filter.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HU8GKT0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The chinese pump works quite well for my needs, it's a tiny table so the low CFM isn't a big deal. The filter because I use it indoors and didn't feel like having to deal with oil spit.
Good vacuum, fast, cheap. Pick any two.
To meet your criteria this one linked below is under $50, will pull a better vacuum than most mechanical pumps, but very slow by comparison. Also wastes a lot of water. Probably not suitable for the task.
Lowest priced practical pumps will be Harbor Freight or local equivalent starting at $100 and more like $250 for anything over 4 CFM. I get them over Craigslist for sub-$100 (7CFM in that case). The decision on CFM is a factor of vacuum chamber volume and silicone working time.
Good luck with that search!
Aspirator vacuum pump
Get one of those faucet asperators
14$ http://www.amazon.com/Nalgene-6140-0010-Aspirator-Polypropylene-Threading/dp/B003OBYNBO
Just make sure your hose water isn't going down the drain - because you don't want your butane down there :P
Oils are nonpolar, so you would probably get the best extraction with a nonpolar solvent (i.e. not water). The easiest starting point would be to use Everclear (95% ethanol) to extract from some chopped up hops, filter it, then slowly evaporate the alcohol.
You also might try some other high fat food products (milk, plant oils, butter, meat fat) to do the extraction, but it will be impossible to separate your solvent from the hop oil.
It probably wouldn't hurt you to read that info about THC (or even caffeine) extraction. A lot of the same principles will apply.
If you want to go further, look into converting your kitchen sink to a water aspirator pump or making a CO2 extractor yourself.
Lastly, I have no idea if this would work, but maybe you could make a "hop espresso/tea" with a moka pot? Also try with everclear.