Best range parts according to redditors

The efficiency is about 75%, or about 10% less than induction, both are far more efficient than gas. The technology hasn't changed but replacing the elements with newer ones helps if the older ones are wearing out. Gas is way cheaper in much of the US, and can more easily be made to hit higher BTUs. So when combined with greater control, it is more popular for 'serious' chefs.

You can still install the normal one to a 14-50, you just need a suitable cable.

I used this: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TCZUCZC/

I agree with this. Or, if you're lazy, you can buy new drip pans for cheap: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001TH7GZA/ref=mp_s_a_1_1

Maybe full oven racks with wooden blocks to keep them elevated?

e.g. https://www.amazon.com/WB48K5019-WB48T10095-Hotpoint-Kenmore-Assembly/dp/B00943C890/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469831125&sr=8-1&keywords=oven+racks

Yeah burner covers are so cheap.

Reston Lloyd Electric Stove Burner Covers, Set of 4, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00185YDB8/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_i_iqpIDbJBZZR8T

This seems like a terrible idea to get rid of the stove, no way would I ever even consider a house like that because who knows what other crazy stuff the seller did.

Assuming you have room for it behind your range there is an adapter you can buy to make it easy on yourself.

https://www.amazon.ca/Canada-Wire-Range-Power-Adapter/dp/B01M6ZLQXC

Electric Oven Drip Pans


Cover them in foil when you get them. Replace the foil once a month or so.

You mean like this?

Are the shafts shapes like a D or just a splined circle?
You can get universal knobs for both types on Amazon.
The one with the pliers may be damaged, but you can try it.

If D shaped, these would work
Jetec 4 Pack Control Knobs with 12 Adapters Universal Design for Oven/Stove/Range https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N3V6DPG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qDIrDbY0T00K5

Is there anything still legible on the white part? Part number?

This looks kind of similar... Spark Ignitor For WP74009336 - Oven Top Burner Maytag Range https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RLP3J6Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7qQkDbA0CP356

I wonder if these would work?

Silicone Gap Cover, (2 PACK) Silicone Gap Stopper Kitchen Stove Counter Gap Covers - 21" Flexible Stove Space Fillers, Food Grade,Semi Clear https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07JMZTF9G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.-PiDb79084F3

Damn. It's a bummer they don't just sell replacement plastic cores.

Nothing left to do than just poke around and find other cheaper Samsung knobs that will fit.

These look promising:

https://www.amazon.com/DG64-00473A-Burner-Knob-Samsung-Range/dp/B07KGKJJP8

As do these:

https://www.amazon.com/DG64-00347B-Dial-Replacement-Samsung-Range/dp/B077BK6MKG/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_60_bs_lp_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=RT6A3WFK62V1D3WW4N2Y

But it's going to be a crapshoot.

You could potentially replace the burner head: https://www.amazon.com/Replacement-KitchenAid-3412D024-09-U-S-Solid/dp/B07522B6B7

It looks like yours was supposed to have another piece that is like a little skirt but it is missing for some reason. If you dig around using the model number of the stove, you may be able to find just the missing skirts on some appliance repair website.

So for 240V it's two 120V lines in parallel. A dryer outlet should be 240V 30A with two 120V lines (red and black), a neutral (white), and a ground (green). The Foundrywired for 240V with the correct fuses, as seen in the manual will be two 120V lines and a ground. My guess is you'd need something like this with a male adapter end like this on your Foundry.

If you can get the correct ends you could make all these yourself relatively easily. However, I'd only say to do that if you're comfortable working with electrical components yourself. Also I'm not an electrician, but I did wire up my DIY brewery and have converted a table saw from 120V to 240V so I do have a bit of experience with it.

Give these a look. No regrets from buying them

Ninja edit: i format good

Here is what burner head cap is for those who may not know: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07R2FKX4Z/?coliid=I1Q84HANLCBZDF&colid=3H924TQZAZJ5S&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

^ I bought mine from Amazon.

Double check that the model # fits with your stove. Also, note that cheap metal ones will eventually rust. Cheapest is not always the greatest. I bought a set of 4 porcelain ones that were $17. Worth it cause it’ll never rust. I routinely clean them twice a month to keep them shiny (I don’t with the stove often).

Tesla briefly offered a HPWC with a 50A cord but not anymore apparently. What you can do is get a 14-50 outlet installed and if you want a HPWC just have your electrician wire it up with this https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TCZUCZC/

FYI the white wire would not be used in that case and you would need to set the current selector switch on the HPWC to the 50A breaker setting

         Parts List for (PID Controller Box)<br />

Some of these parts may be purchased at your local hardware store for a cheaper price.....


• Dual Digital Display PID Temperature Controller: http://amzn.com/B002PIM3R8

• Solid State Relay w/ Heatsink: http://amzn.com/B005K2IXHU

• PT100 Thermocouple Sensor: http://amzn.com/B008MU0VFY

• Aluminum Project Enclosure Box, Econobox: http://amzn.com/B005T7RPFC

• 3 Pin IEC320 Male Power Socket w/ Switch: http://amzn.com/B00F4MGRRE . TIP - Replace Fuse With F15AL250V.

• GX16-3 Aviation Connector:http://amzn.com/B00FB56T04

• Black - Tamper Resistant Power Receptacle: http://amzn.com/B002L6H414

• Gray - Tamper Resistant Power Receptacle: http://amzn.com/B002L6H428

• IEC320-C13 Power Cord: http://amzn.com/B0012EI6KE

• Rubber Feet: http://ebay.com/itm/351131287090

• Heat Shrink: http://amzn.com/B00EXLLXK8

• Fork Terminal Wire Connectors - Non Insulated ~ 16-14 AWG: http://amzn.com/B00LUUAB94

• Female Disconnect - Non Insulated: http://amzn.com/B0071OXJ5Q

• Insulated Copper Wire ~ 18-14 AWG

• Nuts & Bolts

I used these two walkthroughs as guides:

• http://imgur.com/a/uGyF1
  
• http://www.instructables.com/id/2-Player-Bartop-Arcade-Machine-Powered-by-Pi/
  
  
  
  Total estimated cost is ~$500 based on:
  
  
• Flat-pack wooden cabinet with T-Molding: $185
  
• Joystick Set: $65
  
• Misc parts to make missing LED cable from Joystick Set: ~$15
  
• 22" Monitor from Craigslist: $20
  
• Raspberry Pi Kit: $50
  
• 128GB MicroSD Card: $41
  
• Speaker Bar: $20
  
• LED strip kit: $12
  
• Cheap Power strip: $8
  
• Power socket: $6
  
• Custom Marquee Printing: $50
  
• Miscellaneous Home Depot Purchases: ~$25

Or if that's not big enough, try this:

https://www.amazon.com/WB48K5019-WB48T10095-Hotpoint-Kenmore-Oven/dp/B00943C890/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480901403&sr=8-1&keywords=replacement+oven+rack

Hey!

So, I know this isn't 'conventional' water/liquid cooling, but I am not sure what's the right place to ask.

I've recently gotten "re-interested" in mineral oil cooling. Back in the gap, Pudget Systems was trying to refine the idea of mineral oil cooling. I've tried to gain insight from their writing but some of it is vague.

My first question pertains to oil "climbing" out of the enclosure via cables:
>The custom motherboard tray also allows us to install a power socket, and a control valve for the air hose. These connection points serve a distinct purpose! By not running any cables directly into the oil, we prevent wicking.

I can't really see what's going on in their pictures. It almost looks like the motherboard I/O is just barely sticking out the top of the mineral oil. Their power cable solution looks similar to what I was thinking: Using some sort of plug/cable like this secured to the case with a rubber gasket to help seal the oil in.

Would "plug extensions" of this sort combined with a gasket form a good enough seal to prevent mineral oil leaking/climbing/wicking? Do you think I can find similar extensions and gaskets for Ethernet, USB, and other kinds of cables?

Will wireless peripherials/receivers work if submerged in mineral oil?

Are there any special considerations I should make when selecting pumps, tubes, radiators, or reservoirs for a mineral oil system?

How do you think the cost of mineral oil vs traditional liquid cooling compares?

here you go OP https://www.amazon.com/Frigidaire-316442301-Element-for-Range/dp/B005B9CUD0/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1493347362&sr=8-10&keywords=electric+burner+for+electric+stove

But the covers over my burners are also made of metal and the nice ones are either covered in ceramic, or are simply metal. I don't see how this changes anything. For example http://www.amazon.com/Stanco-Universal-Electric-Chrome-Reflector/dp/B001TH7GZA

https://www.amazon.com/Stanco-Universal-Electric-Chrome-Reflector/dp/B001TH7GZA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1485565528&sr=8-4&keywords=stove+burner

oooh sneaky kitty! :)

Hey, you might want to move where you keep her treats. I see you have an electric range and the elements retain heat for awhile. I've burnt myself on them. Puss might accidentally step on them and burn her feet. Even though she's probably smarter than me.

When I lived in a place with an electric range I got [these] (http://smile.amazon.com/Reston-Lloyd-Electric-Burner-Covers/dp/B00185YDB8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421949076&sr=8-1&keywords=electric+range+covers&pebp=1421949083948&peasin=B00185YDB8) for extra safety.

Not only that, but there is increased liability. Part Dc47-00019A can easily be bought and shipped in a day or two. This is the fastest selling element on our truck. We sell 2 of these for every 1 other element acrossed all manufactures. Honestly, this guy sounds like a hack, just trying to save 10 cents on a part with $10 of time.
https://www.amazon.com/Direct-Buy-Supply-HEATING-ELEMENT/dp/B01N9463DW/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1483750894&sr=8-6&keywords=Dc47-00019A

Spend 10 bucks please, that catch pan is disgusting

https://www.amazon.com/Stanco-Universal-Electric-Chrome-Reflector/dp/B001TH7GZA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485557597&sr=8-1&keywords=oven+burner+drip+pans

I need it for connecting two boxes that have these https://www.amazon.com/Panel-Power-Inlet-Sockets-Connectors/dp/B00843KZP0#Ask on them