Best recording signal processors according to redditors

This is the one he uses. 200 bucks so it better be worth it!

This is the exact model that Dan is using.

Dude, are you fucking daft?

Equalizers. They are things. Buy one, plug it in, and use it.

The "right" way to go from an unbalanced 1/4" instrument cable -> balanced XLR is to use a direct box. You can also get an impedance matching cable.

As for the cable you have, whether you bridge pins 1-2 or 1-3 is a matter of convention. Some systems consider #2 the "hot" pin and others treat it as the "cold" pin. See Wikipedia for more info

He uses a Roland AIRA Series VT-3 Voice Transformer combined with a slight accent in his voice.

Source of info - https://youtu.be/n3qao9cPxYA?t=7m45s

Roland AIRA Series VT-3 Voice Transformer -
https://www.amazon.com/Roland-AIRA-VT-3-Voice-Transformer/dp/B00IGDXK9Q

https://www.amazon.com/TC-Electronics-VoiceTone-C1-Processor/dp/B004GTED7C/ref=pd_rhf_gw_p_img_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=Y6D29P16MQAGAMXS1FJ3

Personally I would use an LTIblox and an XLR cablefor this situation. It will take your 3.5mm headphone jack and send it to mic level XLR with an easy to access volume dial. Its not the cheapest solution, but it is what I would do.

I struggle in a lot of areas, but keeping readers engaged has always been a strength for me. Here are a few ways that work for me:

1. Get a voice changer. Check out this Twitch streamer who uses a voice changer to do a grandma voice to screw with scammers: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=igzPcgXd0XY
   This is what he/I use(s): https://www.amazon.com/Roland-AIRA-VT-3-Voice-Transformer/dp/B00IGDXK9Q
   
   It allows you to do hilarious voices and the kids really crack up at it. You'll spend around $300 for everything, but it's worth something that is such a significant portion of your job. If you've listened to many audiobooks, then you know a good narrator can make or break a book, and it's no different in your classroom.
   
   
2. Every once in a while (depending on your group's stamina), have your students act out a scene. I frequently say something like "You know, I'm reading this, but I'm just not visualizing it too well. I need to see it. I need 3 people up here. Okay, you three are the Socs and Julissa is going to be Johnny. Show the class what it looks like when they beat up Johnny." Motion creates emotion, so while students sometimes will initially roll their eyes, it always brings their mood up.
   
   
3. Stop every once in a while and cold call (call on without warning) students and ask them to clarify things. I might say "RJ, this author keeps saying that Jonas and his family live in a dwelling. Remind us what a dwelling means in this context," or "So, we just saw our main character lie to her mother for the first time. Alex, what would you have done if you were in the character's situation?" As long as you enforce the rule that students must stay engaged, they'll pay attention just to avoid getting embarrassed if they get called on and don't know the answer. A few times is okay, but if a student clearly isn't even trying, then it becomes a discipline issue. I'm lenient if students can't find exactly where we are reading (because they may be listening even if they aren't following the words), but you'll be able to tell if they are paying zero attention.
   
   Those are 3 things that help for me. Of course your personality and energy level will determine if these methods work for you.

Right now you’re sending left and right signals to a balanced input that is inverting the polarity of one of those signals, hence the horrible sound. You need to sum your left and right (tip and ring) signals before they hit the input of your transmitter.

With some soldering skills, you can make your own 1/8 TRS to XLR(M) summing cable

Or you can buy a summing box that is purpose-built for connecting 1/8” headphone outputs to balanced XLR inputs. Like this one.

Before you buy anything (and don't pidgeonhole yourself into spending $100+ on a new dac as /u/Diablo-D3 says - he may as well be a Schiit shill with how much he's pressuring you to spend money with them) try adjusting the current setup first. Spend $300 on new equipment to fix a little buzz? Please.

You are using a USB dac/mixer as your dac stage. You're connecting through balanced 1/4" outputs - presumably these are line-level. The buzz only comes when when your GPU is under load.

From that we can extrapolate it's due to power problems. Go to the power management menu, advanced settings. There should be something there for USB power selective sleeping - make sure that's disabled.

The problem persists with a powered hub, but the headphone amp section of the 2i4 is fine. The amp circuit is removing the power problem.

I'd do a couple things:

Use a microphone to record the hum and see what frequency it is. If it's 60Hz (US) or 50Hz (elsewhere) then it's a grounding problem and a guaranteed way to solve it is to put a DI box like this in the signal path to the speakers to ground it. That whirlwind is the type of box we use at work for very long XLR runs and they work great. Your 1/4" outs would work fine, an XLR -> 1/4" cable would work on the output side.

You could also try the unbalanced RCA output. It could be a flaw in the circuit for the balanced output, or something is just barely touching inside.

A more 'severe' option would be to buy a power conditioner, but there is no guarantee that could fix it. Or you could get a new motherboard, that could fix it too but would be silly. A USB power isolator would work as well, such as this which is unpowered. It limits the output to ~200mA though, and the 2i4 probably needs more juice than that.

Really I'd look into the unbalanced RCA out first, since that's like a $8 potential fix for a cable. If that doesn't work a DI box should fix it.

>Disclaimer: it requires the power supply that looks like a headphone jack, so you can't use the OneSpot chain power supplies on this baby.

http://amzn.com/B0040PX5QW

https://www.amazon.com/Roland-AIRA-VT-3-Voice-Transformer/dp/B00IGDXK9Q

Yeah, just get a Direct Box to take your XLR and convert it into a 1/4". I saw Bradford Cox live a while ago and he was doing exactly that. Here's a picture you can see he's using a GrooveTubes Direct Box to get his mic into those pedals on the right. I know Behringer make a budget one for $40 or so if you wanted to give it a go before shelling out for anything more expensive.

First thing... Never remove a ground from a power adapter. You're removing the ground from the wrong place and it can be dangerous.

Something like this can help / fix the issue completely: https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-HD400-BEHRINGER-MICROHD/dp/B000KUD2G4

It's basically a line level isolator. It sits between your soundcard and monitors and isolates using transformers. It ensures that there is no direct contact between signal lines as it only transfers the signal via the transformer, one for each channel (left and right).

There are a few models of this sort of thing out there but the Behringer is good value and performs well. I've had one in between my computer and monitor and casual A/B tests show that is doesn't affect the sound in any perceptible way.

If you don't trust Behringer, google "transformer isolated line level signal" for more boxes that do this.

Lifting your grounds on your power will get rid of your hums, sure, but it also gets rid of the safety function that grounding pins play, which is in the event of failure of your device, the power flows away safely.

Did we ever confirm that this is the Vocoder Dan has been using?

This is basically like coil whine. I had this with WoW and KRK's too! Basically just electrical interference from your graphics card being picked up by your KRK's - you'll notice the buzzing changes as your framerate changes. I fixed mine with one of these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Behringer-MICROHD-Hum-Destroyer-HD400/dp/B000KUD2G4/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=passive+hum+destroyer&qid=1562644272&s=gateway&sr=8-3

For the microphone stand if you ever wanna change it...

https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/PSA1Rode--rode-psa1-professional-studio-boom-arm

These are excellent, I'm pretty sure Joe Rogan uses these now... can't remember. And he uses the SM7B so that was a noteworthy mention in your post.

For your other stuff...

https://www.amazon.com/dbx-166xs-Professional-Compressor-Processor/dp/B004NDJRKO/

Pick up one of these one day. You don't seem to use a limiter, your strip doesn't have one, and this will handle that, and this would solve the volume extremities issue with your stream where my wife gives me that look because you start yelling at some alt-right dipshit after I could barely hear you talking a second earlier. Thanks.

Then I would change out your mixer one day. It might have some noise you aren't happy with in the preamps (maybe not), and if so try one of these out. Allen and Heath is famous for having completely perfect preamps

https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/ZED60-10FX--allen-and-heath-zed60-10fx-mixer-with-usb-and-effects

They make a much smaller one as well if you don't need that many channels, obviously.

https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/ZED6FX--allen-and-heath-zed-6fx-mixer-with-effects

But I'm not sure if it's up to the same standards and if you do that deal where you send some audio back in from the mic out on the computer, I always forget the terminology that podcasters made for that trick. Basically to isolate who is talking to you and put it into the mixer directly and you hear it and your audience hears it, and you can turn them down, etc... On my allen and heath I had to mess with it a bit to make that work right. Something to consider.

If you don't already use a RACK, might as well.

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Desktop-Frame-Components-RK8OD/dp/B01NBPL8OP/

And I'd advise something like a power conditioner in the rack as well, keeps the gremlins out. I'm paranoid about sound, I use their cheaper power strips for my setup and it feels like it makes a difference, but maybe I'm tricking myself.

https://www.amazon.com/Furman-Conditioning-Outlets-Spacing-Voltmeter/dp/B00145EVJ6/

Just little things, but they probably won't be worth it overall. Stuff you might add to an amazon list or something. I'm a list guy. ;)

This is probably what's commonly known as ground loop. This is caused by electricity going in a loop within your setup. Crossing wires such as power wires and speaker wires, coming in and our of your wall socket, computer, and everything plugged in together, will cause this to happen and does not necessarily persist only within your blue yeti, especially because you mute it and it still happens. You may have introduced new wires or devices that brought more electricity into the mix, causing this ground loop. Best thing to do would be to unplug devices individually from your setup until it disappears, and then you'll know the culprit. This can be fixed by using a ground loop isolator (hum/noise isolator), or by painstakingly going through your setup to find the culprit, keeping wires as uncrossed as possible, and with a lot of luck.

I personally solved mine with 3 of these and possibly even this if it applies to you. Good luck

I would recommend using a crossover for that kind of setup. Even with the lows turned down on the guitar amp, you still risk damaging the speakers.

Last year's model of Schiit Modi - looks great, sounds great, unbeatable at this price

You'll need a USB cable for it but they practically grow on trees at this point

You've got a ground loop.

Look at your headphone jack, see how there's black rings separating the metal bits? (You'll have 2 or 3 depending on mono or stereo jack). One of those separations is the "ground". When you plug your headphones in the ground goes from your headphones into your jack, through the USB, and out the ground pin on your Xbox power brick. When you plug your amp in you're adding another ground path through your amp's cord, causing a ground loop, which adds the buzz you're hearing.

To solve your buzz, you need to get rid of one of the ground paths. There are many many ways to do this, but here's a few inexpensive ones.

1. http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-HD400-2-Channel-Hum-Destroyer/dp/B000KUD2G4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1394933322&sr=8-2&keywords=hum+eliminator place this before the input of your amp. This isolates ground that would come from the cord, eliminating the "loop". Your xbox is grounded, and so is your amp, but the unit prevents them from sharing each-other's ground path, eliminating the ground loop and the buzz.
   
   
2. http://www.amazon.com/45086-3-Prong-2-Prong-Electrical-Adapter/dp/B00166TT3G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394933411&sr=8-1&keywords=ground+lift buy one of these and plug your amp into this. The intended use of these is actually to give you ground where you don't have ground (you screw the little metal bit into the metal screw that holds your wall outlet), but we're not using it for that purpose. We're using it to remove the ground path from your amp. So make sure if you use this, don't let the metal loop touch other metal. You lifted ground from the amp, but it's okay because your amp is still grounded via your cable which is grounded through the Xbox.
   
   Keep in mind if you lift the ground and then unplug the amp from the Xbox you're playing with an ungrounded amp and are potentially in the danger zone.
   

How about this Behringer guy?

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-FBQ800-BEHRINGER-MINIFBQ/dp/B000MJ406Y/

Buy this:

https://www.amazon.com/Truetone-C35-Converter-Power-Supply/dp/B0040PX5QW/

If anyone is interested, like myself, you can buy it here.

I'll probably get one in the coming weeks/month(s). I'll let you guys know how I like it if I do.

Well this interface is really highly rated, exceptional quality for the price and this DI box was standard use back in uni. Hope that helps get you started anyways.

Behringer Shark comes to mind.
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-FBQ100-BEHRINGER-SHARK/dp/B0051TZBTU

Truthfully the in game sound is perfectly fine IMO and up to par with any DAW I've used, the difference is likely in what you're using to output the sound (the two 12" are going to sound a ton better than shitty macbook speakers or not amazing quality headphones).

That being said I'm splitting to the same exact amp for my setup with a behringer headphone amplifier and dehummer.

I've heard other people use tuning pedals or AB/Y pedals which may (probably) are a cheaper and better solution, but I can't personally speak to that.

The downside of this setup is that you're going to still need to keep your volume at 10 and your tone at 10 on your guitar for the best RS note detection.

[If anyone is curious this is what he says he uses.]
(https://www.amazon.com/Roland-AIRA-VT-3-Voice-Transformer/dp/B00IGDXK9Q/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1522289711&sr=8-2&keywords=roland+aira+series+vt-3+voice+transformer&dpID=51hXvKYtR2L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch)

I used one of these to fix it when I was using RCA.

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-HD400-Ultra-Compact-2-Channel-Destroyer/dp/B000KUD2G4

I think this might be the one: https://www.amazon.com/Roland-AIRA-VT-3-Voice-Transformer/dp/B00IGDXK9Q

Whirlwind Director has been an industry standard for as long as I can remember. Either that or the Imp 2.

Never tried the Direct 2, myself, but it sounds like you could kill two birds with one DI.

Thanks for this. I just ordered a whole pile of stuff on Amazon with Prime. Came out to be a good bit cheaper than your estimate. I traded down on a couple of things like the vocal mics (Behringers for 1/3 the price) and direct boxes (half the price). The big thing I skimped on to make my budget was the mixer - I got a Behringer 12-channel mixer with great reviews for about $90. Hopefully it will get the job done.

Definitely couldn't have figured out what to buy without you. Hopefully this is everything we need for a great summer and beyond!

Rapco LTIBLOX is exactly what you need. It converts a stereo PC miniplug into a balanced mic-level XLR, with a volume knob. It's cheap, too!

Don't return it and buy it again, it's guaranteed to happen due to being a compact computer. You want just this honestly

It may not reverse polarity, which you also need. TrueTone/visual sound makes the correct adapter for like $5.

https://www.amazon.com/Truetone-C35-Converter-Power-Supply/dp/B0040PX5QW

I think on the output side from your guitar you might be able to get away with just a Y connector, since pickups have a high output impedance. They do sell ABY switches, which are designed for this purpose though https://www.amazon.com/OSP-Guitar-Amplifier-Selection-Switch/dp/B004VFTSO4/ref=sr_1_4?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1510606280&sr=1-4&keywords=guitar+aby

For mixing headphone outs, I found this on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/JUST-MIXER-Audio-DJ-Mixer/dp/B01LPT8KQA/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1510605779&sr=8-13&keywords=headphone+mixer
Annoyingly, you'd probably need to buy a 3.5mm to 1/4" adapter to mate your amp headphone out to the mixer.

I have not tried either of these products, so I don't know if they are any good, it's not a recommendation, just an idea to steer you in the right direction. You may be able to find cheaper or better alternatives.

http://www.amazon.com/Rapco-Horizon-LTIBLOX-Laptop-Interface/dp/B003MLFCMA?tag=s601000020-20

I've got one, and use it all the time. This is a mono-sum solution though.


Your amplifier is designed to receive two channels of balanced audio. Because of this, you'd only need the balanced transmitter, but you'd want to do it at line level. Reducing the audio level to a mic-level signal would raise the noise floor, as the amp would have to be turned up to compensate.

I like your Amazon link below.

An inexpensive solution that I have in one of my ukes is
this Artec piezo mounted under the saddle paired with this endpin jack. As you can see the components simply plug into each other. This is a passive pickup so it will benefit greatly/require an external preamp. I use the Behringer ADI21.

I've also installed the JOYO JE-62 in three different ukes for friends. It can be found on eBay from various Chinese vendors. It comes with a flexible wire piezo for under the saddle but I replaced it with the Artec piezo. This is an active unit with a built in tuner.

On the higher end I've installed MiSi Acoustic Trio pickups in two of my ukes.
All are good solutions for different budgets.

Microphone:

• Audio-Technica AT2020 is totally solid (not the USB version obviously)
  
• Rode NT-1A would be a proper step up from there
  
  Since you're aiming to do everything in hardware, you will need a mixer, the Mackie 802vlz4 would be a decent option. Any Mixer that has solid preamps and effect inserts on the microphone channels will do here. Normally I'd prefer just using an audio interface, but they don't have inserts for hardware effects or volume controls for individual channels which you do need here.
  
  There are lots of mixers with integrated USB interfaces, but they don't usually allow you to send audio from the PC into the mixer and then back, they're just intended to allow recording the whole mix and often don't have proper drivers so they end up adding delay.
  
  Since this Mixer is purely analog, you need to add a really minimalistic audio interface like the ESI U24 XL or the Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 (which would already be somewhat overkill since it has mic preamps which you don't need).
  
  Finally, you need a proper compressor. For this part, someone else might have more to offer, don't have a very good overview over the market when it comes to hardware units like this.
  
  
• The DBX 266 XS should be very solid, has compressor and Gate/Expander
  
• FMR Audio RNC 1773 really nice, but more expensive option, and doesn't have a gate. You'd need to get another device for that purpose if you go for this one.
  
  This would be coming in at around $470 plus microphone. More if you go with the FMR compressor and a separate gate/expander.
  
  Oh, setup:
  
  Microphone -> Mixer -> Mixer FX insert -> Compressor/Gate -> Mixer FX return. The FX insert/return is actually one jack on the mixer, you need a splitter cable from stereo 1/4" to 2x mono 1/4" to use it.
  
  Mixer Master out -> USB Interface
  
  USB interface out -> Mixer (one of the stereo channels)
  
  Mixer headphone out -> well, headphones ;)

If you want hardware I recommend the Roland VT-3. It has a volume knob, peak knob, adjustable pitch/format, adjustable reverb, various other effects, and supports both 1/4" mic and XLR mic. It's also has a USB output. I use it all the time for my streams.

You might be able to find it cheaper or used on Reverb.com and GuitarCenter.com

Lots of things you can do with $25 on Amazon:

Behringer Ultra Vibrato UV300 pedal ($25)

Behringer Ultra Chorus UC200 pedal ($25)

Rock Band 25-key MIDI keytar ($24)

M-Audio SP-2 sustain pedal ($14)

Behringer Ultravoice XM8500 dynamic vocal mic ($20)

Auphonix 6" double mesh pop filter ($19)

Behringer Ultra-DI DI400P passive DI box ($20)

On-Stage single X keyboard stand ($22)

Andoer melodica ($20)

Andoer kalimba/mbira thumb piano ($12)

Big Thunder Tube ($30)

Small Thunder Tube ($8)

Angled Thunder Tube ($28)

Meinl Percussion 8" claves ($6)

Stylophone ($24)

Cables

Cable adapters

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Microhd-Ultra-Compact-2-Channel-Destroyer/dp/B000KUD2G4/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501012781&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=Beginner+hum+destroyer

I would start with the Cheap Dean Markley if you are experimenting. Piezo pickups like to see a very high (~10Ω) impedance, the difference in response when using a proper DI is profound. Links below.

Dean Markley: https://www.amazon.com/Dean-Markley-DM3000-Transducer-Acoustic/dp/B00542YQSQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1497045344&sr=1-1&keywords=dean+markley+piezo

Cheapest ultra-high-z DI I'm aware of: https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-V-Tone-Acoustic-Modeler-Recording/dp/B000KITQK2/ref=pd_sim_267_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000KITQK2&pd_rd_r=CF0BQGFFMPZTJ0TVM3W4&pd_rd_w=jRvQb&pd_rd_wg=tR8Rv&psc=1&refRID=CF0BQGFFMPZTJ0TVM3W4

DI boxes (Direct Inject) and Isolation Transformers both are used to isolate one circuit from another. They can also change an unbalanced signal (i.e. instrument patch cord) into a balanced signal (i.e. microphone cord).

There is a transformer inside them, so that the inputs and outputs are not electrically connected to each other. This can prevent ground loops and other electrical problems.

Here is a link to the one I used: https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-DI20-BEHRINGER-ULTRA-DI/dp/B000CCSWQA

You can buy DI boxes at any music equipment store.

$20 D.I. Box powered from the speaker:

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-DI400P-BEHRINGER-ULTRA-DI/dp/B000KUA8G6/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_267_bs_lp_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=E60VVX77Y170MGHQRTSW

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-HD400-Ultra-Compact-2-Channel-Destroyer/dp/B000KUD2G4
put that before this:
https://www.amazon.com/Install-Bay-Channel-Driver-Converter/dp/B01M0A124S/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=INSTALL+BAY+LINE+DRIVER&qid=1557134326&s=musical-instruments&sr=1-1-catcorr

You can look into getting a Roland VT-3. It's a little pricey, and depending on what you have now, you might need to buy a new mic. If you're curious about it, I'd be more than happy to help.

I believe hes still using https://www.amazon.com/Roland-AIRA-VT-3-Voice-Transformer/dp/B00IGDXK9Q

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Microhd-Ultra-Compact-2-Channel-Destroyer/dp/B000KUD2G4

XLR mics with phantom power for the win! If you're going for professional quality sound, save your money and invest in a good XLR mic.

​

The problem with USB mics like Blue Yeti is the fact that they use the integrated sound on your computer's motherboard. If your motherboard's sound system is older (2 years or older), the voice from the USB mic could sound robotic or it might not capture your entire voice range. This is especially a problem for folks with deeper voices. On older computers, you might sound far away or your voice could break up. If you have a brand new computer, feel free to use a USB mic until you can afford an XLR microphone.


XLR microphones require phantom power. Scarlet Focusrite (https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Audio-Interface-Tools/dp/B01E6T56CM) is a good product for phantom power, but there are affordable, good quality sound mixers that provide phantom power as well. Alot of streamers have used Berhinger Xenyx 302 ( https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-302USB-BEHRINGER-XENYX/dp/B005EHILV4) or Berhinger Xenyx 502 (https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-502-BEHRINGER-XENYX/dp/B000J5UEGQ). I personally use Roland VT-3 (https://www.amazon.com/Roland-AIRA-VT-3-Voice-Transformer/dp/B00IGDXK9Q) because it's a voice changer, sound mixer, noise gate, and phantom power all mixed into one machine.

​

For mics, I admit I'm using a cheap Pyle PDMIC58 . (Hey, I got this XLR mic for free with my Best Buy points. I didn't have enough points for a good mic). My problem with the mic is that it's too bright for my voice, and I have a low voice for a woman. I need something that captures my full voice range alot better. I'm planning to upgrade to a RODE NT-1 mic (Not the Rode NT-1A) before the end of the year.

Like others have stated, take your time and do research. Don't rush! Find the mic that fits your voice best. Good luck!

Doubt it would pay for itself, but just think of all the fun you can have

https://www.amazon.com/Roland-AIRA-VT-3-Voice-Transformer/dp/B00IGDXK9Q

I can't speak to your insturment specifically. I did however, do a lot of research into acoustic amplification trying to make a nylon strung acoustic guitar work with Rocksmith.

You can get a stick-on Piezo pickup relatively inexpensively from Amazon.com. My experience has been that an expensive pickup won't significantly out-perform a cheaper pickup. Start inexpensive and see if the pickup is going to work before throwing a lot of money at it.

As you already know, you'll need a pre-amp to bring the volume up to a reasonable level. I bought this Behringer external pre-amp from Amazon relatively inexpensively.. This setup is enough to bring the stick-on pickup within an order of magnitude of any other instrument at your gig. You can then run it through an amp or a PA.

Be aware that a Piezo pickup will not produce the deep full sound you are used to with your upright bass. Piezo pickups will tend to produce really wonky response curves with a bit more of a synthetic tone than your instrument produces naturally. They work by detecting the vibrations of the body, not of the tone actually coming out of the bass. They usually pickup string vibration more than acoustic vibration.

If you want to capture the natural tone of your bass, consider using a Microphone pickup. A mic pointed at the sound-hole of your bass can produce very good sound, and is a very common way to amplify acoustic instruments. In fact, this seems to be the most common way to amp an acoustic bass.

A clip-on mic like the one I just linked will help produce the most consistent sound levels as your instrument moves around. But you can use a conventional stand-up mic as well.

A mic will be sensitive to feedback, so properly testing your environment and ensuring that there's no feedback is critical. This will still be an issue with Piezo pickups as well, though it won't be as much of an issue.

TL;DR: Mic your bass.

I had the same issue with my setup. I'm have two JBL LSR305s running to my onboard sound of my desktop. I would often get a high pitched hum anytime I moved my mouse or whenever I was in the main menu of a game. I ended up buying [this](http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-HD400-BEHRINGER-MICROHD/dp/B000KUD2G4/ref=sr_1_sc_1? ie=UTF8&qid=1418913249&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=Humm+destroyer), which completely eliminated the hum coming from the speakers. If this doesn't fix your issue, I'd recommend running an external DAC like others suggested.

If If you look into purchasing what is called a DI (Direct Input) it turns the sound from your Digital Piano (through the headphones or output jack) and inputs the unedited sound into the software you use.

MIDI wouldn't ever record what you HEAR on your piano, DI would!

EDIT: I found some good ones on these links (they do cost a bit)

LINK 1

LINK 2

Do you think this would work on a budget?
OSP ABY Guitar Amplifier Selection Foot Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004VFTSO4/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_WXkVub09ZZB4Q

http://www.amazon.com/DigiTech-Whammydtv-01-Guitar-Effects-Pedal/dp/B0052QOU08

Billy Sheehan is using a Rolls Two Way Tiny Crossover to remove the lows from his upper frequency amp. A look at one of his rig rundowns will give you some good ideas about running a dual amp system.

https://www.amazon.com/rolls-Tiny-2-Way-Crossover-SX21/dp/B00102VW6S

https://www.amazon.com/Roland-AIRA-VT-3-Voice-Transformer/dp/B00IGDXK9Q

You don't need to run it stereo, just buy something like an LTI block, or just a 3.5 to xlr. We use LTI blocks for everything from laptops to iPads, phones, etc. Don't run phantom power on that channel. Looks like you cant turn it off to specific channels, so use a DI so that you dont fry anything


https://www.amazon.com/Rapco-Horizon-LTIBLOX-Laptop-Interface/dp/B003MLFCMA

Power conditioner, make sure the TS cable is nowhere near power cables (or perpendicular to them). If the noise gate plugin doesn't work, you could try hum destroyers.

Roland VT-3

http://www.amazon.com/Roland-AIRA-Series-Voice-Transformer/dp/B00IGDXK9Q

Might not be exactly what you're looking for (budget, hardware, etc.) but I know several females that have had great success with the Roland VT-3 (amazon.com link) in this application.

Had the same problem, horrible noise coming from my JBL 305 when my GPU was under high load. Bought the Behringer HD400 and it eliminated the problem completely. I personally don't notice any loss in quality, it sounds better since there isn't any extra noise in the signal. I have my DAC/preamp going into the HD400 with 1/4"-1/4" jacks, and then 1/4"-XLR cables going to my speakers.

it's like what's under Drumph's golf pants:

Depends

If the mic input on the wall ( XLR right?) is set up for mic level you need a device like an iFace device or this interface ( much cheaper than the Iface) to step down your line level source to mic level.

If the system is setup for it, it may accept a line level input with the input gain set at a lower level for that wall plate input, but that still leaves the challenge of taking your TRS stereo unbalanced source, and summing the two chanels to balanced mono (XLR)

Get a cheap DI box

Something like this should work

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-DI400P-BEHRINGER-ULTRA-DI/dp/B000KUA8G6/

I had the same ground loop issue when I first got my monitors (also using scarlet interface). I stuck this ( https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-HD400-BEHRINGER-MICROHD/dp/B000KUD2G4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526981643&sr=8-1&keywords=behringer+hd400 ) between interface and monitors and problem solved. Passive, two ins, two outs, basically a zero-gain transformer I think. Only around 30 euro too.

I had a very similar issue with my hs8 monitors and it turned out to be a ground loop problem. If you Google "ground loop speaker noise" you should find a ton of forums with people dealing with this. Since it only happens in one part of your house that's what makes me think it might be a bad ground somewhere in that circuit you're connecting to. For me what fixed my problems (and this fucking PLAGUED me for like 8 months) was just using this little guy: BEHRINGER MICROHD HD400
It's pretty cheap so might be worth a shot. This little box is the last part of my chain before it hits my monitors. But Google around for ground isolation problems and see what worked for other people as well. And also use a decent power strip for your monitors, not a chippy chappy old ass one you found stashed in your parents closet (we all havem).

Received mine today. Pretty sweet looper, but unfortunately I'm still getting some hum. It's definitely not anywhere near as bad as the Y-splitter, so that's a relief, but it's still bad enough that Rocksmith is picking up a "B" note whenever my guitar should be silent.. hmm. This seems like it's messing with note detection a bit, and (as with my Y-splitter) I end up having to unplug a cable during tuning to remove the hum, because otherwise I can't tune some of the high strings. Tried recalibrating, but no luck. I know it's not my guitar, because the hum still exists even when my guitar is unplugged, as long as the Rocksmith cable is plugged into the looper.

I did some googling for "Rocksmith hum" and found some recommendations for this $25 hum remover, so I'm considering that. After reading the other posts, I was thinking there'd be no hum at all even without the hum remover.. oh well.

Other than that, though, it's a great pedal. Lots of nice features, and the ability to transfer your recordings from your pedal to your PC over USB is great. Definitely a worthwhile purchase even in light of the hum issue when used with Rocksmith.

youll probably need a standalone mic and pass through an audio input. sdtone mountain 64 does audio changes (for pebble hill and CO roleplay) his website says he uses a Roland VT3 with a Shure SM7B mic. any headset with it built in will have even less of the fine tuning youre after

My gaming machine is a 6700K, 1080ti.

My streaming machine is a 2700x with a 1070.

My capture card is Avermedia 4k: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DHSZC4K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My mixer is this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0039PPW60/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have an AT2035 for a mic.

From there it's just an xlr cord, a couple 1/4 to 3.5mm cord to hook to my gaming computer.

I have two https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KUD2G4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 to keep the hum away that might happen.

This little hum destroyer can probably take care of that. I started getting hum like that a while back on a split signal that ended when I added it.

Die Dinger haben halt nicht den besten Klasse-D-Verstärker, daher gibt es ein hohes Grundrauschen. Ich habe je 2xLSR305 und 2xKS Digital D80 mit dem Teil ausgestattet, jetzt nimmt man das Rauschen nur mehr <30cm wahr: https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B000KUD2G4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Gibt sicher Alternativen, aber da kann ich sagen, dass es funktioniert. Andere steckt man einfach dazwischen, genau.

I found this thing on Amazon, it seems to do what I want, but I'm unsure about the inputs.

Buy one of these and an XLR cable of desired length. Then plug that creation into the middle port. Done

I'm thinking of buying this compressor
https://www.amazon.co.uk/DBX-266XS-Dual-Compressor-Gate/dp/B004NDFRVC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483828816&sr=8-1&keywords=compressor+rack

along with a mixer and at2035.

Also would i need phantom power to make this work or would i receieve that from the mixer or rack?

Any ideas on the mixers? Thank you for all your help as usual ;)

Here's an amazon.es dac for 40Euro, in the same vein as /u/Senkaichu :: HiFiMe ES9023. It's a common mobile dac and used often enough in industry to be a good, if cheap, solution.

Four bands isn't really my idea of a usable EQ.

Something like the Behringer FBQ800 is going to have a lot more utility.

This one: https://www.amazon.com/Whirlwind-1-channel-Passive-Instrument-Direct/dp/B0002DUQ72/

​

However, it's also worth noting that the monitors pick up the radio signal to some degree even with no audio cable plugged in. So not sure if balancing the audio would even help that.

This 7.1 HDMI surround sound decoder plus ASIO4ALL might do the trick on the super cheap. But the triangle rule is def in effect.

​

Good/Cheap/Easy ...pick two.

I used the Rolls XS21 for a 2.1 system I assembled for my neighbor. It was the perfect solution.

Focusrite Scarlett Solo and Scarlett 2i2 (Link 1). On amazon for around a benjamen. I would also get a DI box like link 2 to be in front of the Scarlett. This setup is pretty cheap but more than capable of recording, or playing through a laptop at Church. THe scarlet has output on back. hope that helps. I have both of these, great value.

Link 1: https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Audio-Interface-Tools/dp/B01E6T56CM/ref=sr_1_3?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1472744892&sr=1-3&keywords=scarlett+2i2

Link 2 : https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-DI400P-BEHRINGER-ULTRA-DI/dp/B000KUA8G6/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1472744729&sr=1-1&keywords=di+box

I want to equalize the output of a DAC without compromising the quality. I'm ok with the output for music, but I need to make some tonal arrangements for gaming. Is this one going to bottleneck the sound?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Behringer-Ultra-DI-DI100-DI-Box/dp/B000CCSWPQ

Looking at this, it might work as an interface between the mixer and the guitar.. right?

Sounds like you aren't using one of these.

I read about the use of balanced cables or something like this https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-HD400-BEHRINGER-MICROHD/dp/B000KUD2G4 which i might try first as they are cheaper. Do you happen to know something about any of those?

Have you considered the Behringer Hum Destroyer? It's what I use to get rid of pesky ground loops.

I had a similar issue and used this.

https://www.amazon.ca/Behringer-HD400-2-Channel-Hum-Destroyer/dp/B000KUD2G4

Not a guarantee but it worked for me

I recently built a new PC and I'm getting a ton of high frequency noise over my studio monitors. My setup is:

Focusrite Sapphire Pro 40 -> Alesis RA-100 -> Alesis Monitor Ones

The sapphire is hooked up to a PCI express firewire card with a TI chipset. There is no wifi adapter hooked up.

I'm certain the noise is coming from the PC because the noise will change as the PC is being used/the mouse is moved in some applications.

I do know that my power amp does not have balanced inputs. Do you think getting a power amp with balanced inputs might solve the issue? I've also considered giving something like this a try:

https://www.amazon.ca/Behringer-HD400-2-Channel-Hum-Destroyer/dp/B000KUD2G4

This has been suggested as a solution for USB ground loop issues. Search this sub for ground loop and you'll find lots of discussion.

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-HD400-Ultra-Compact-2-Channel-Destroyer/dp/B000KUD2G4

Thanks for the insight, I have a couple additional questions because I'm so green on this haha. Would something like this do the trick? And then what cables/how would I connect the two.

I just got a Focusrite Scarlett Solo. When I hook up my guitar directly to it and run it in Ableton Live Lite, I have no issues. When I run my guitar into my Orange Micro Dark then into the Focusrite Scarlett, I have a lot of noise/hum, especially if I'm near the Scarlett. Now, my Scarlett is near my computer and if I'm recording, I'd like to be near the computer so I can control Ableton. Will something like the Behringer HD400 help with this issue, or should I look at another solution? I don't want anything terribly fancy, I just want to be able to record simple guitar tracks with Ableton to track my progress as I learn guitar.

This is what I do too. I did however get some ground effect hum from both the amp and Rocksmith when using a Y splitter though so I had to use a hum eliminator like this one. Which of course added two more cables to the setup for a total of three instrument cables not including the RealTone cable. Worth it though.

I'd like the ability to split my guitar signal in recording and get a direct signal for post-production, along with my mic'd tracks.

If I were to use something like this Behringer DI20 ULTRA DI

Could I take one of those DI outputs direct to my interface, and use the other to connect to my amp?


Basically my gear question is should I buy that Behringer DI box or is there something else that would better serve my purpose?

Thanks!

This works for almost all tunings. Drop d will still need to tune string.

https://www.amazon.com/DigiTech-Whammydtv-01-Guitar-Effects-Pedal/dp/B0052QOU08

1. Don't uninstall the driver; the driver installer should uninstall it for you, and then install the correct driver upon reboot. Disconnect from the internet while it's installing just to be safe.
   
   
2. That's one of the problems with the default Windows driver
   
   
3. Well... shit. Could be that your laptop just has really shitty integrated sound. And that statics sounds like it is badly isolated from the rest of the computer. You could also try returning/replacing if you can still do that. I'd return it and get a different laptop altogether.
   
   Have a look at the Behringer UCA202 (cheap and still OK, but bulky), or some other USB DAC in the meantime.
   
   There's also this and (my recommendation, if you can afford it) this. They'll give you way better sound than any laptop can provide, and they'll be completely free from any crackling or interference of any kind since they're outside of the computer.

$25 on Amazon. I use these for all computers running into my setup. http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-HD400-2-Channel-Hum-Destroyer/dp/B000KUD2G4 They work great.

Hey Guys,

It's only fair I come back to you on this, I was very close to buying the Schiit Wyrd to try and resolve this, luckily I didn't need to, I found a solution.

The TRS cables between my DAC and the LSR 305's were faulty and badly wired (custom cables), so there were essentially running as unbalanced. As soon as I swapped them out for some other cables that were balanced, I broke the ground loop and and the buzzing stopped completely.

You really do have to work through your cables (Thanks Elnrik), if you don't have balanced outs or a digital coax / S/PDIF input to your DAC available, I would take a look at this:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Behringer-MICROHD-Hum-Destroyer-HD400/dp/B000KUD2G4

It's had some great reviews, it's cheap and I've seen it work in person for someone else with the same sound when they didn't have balanced outputs available.

Thanks again.

Sound Blaster 3.5mm TRS To 1/4" TS into the 305s.

Have also tried motherboard 3.5mm out.

Same power strip. I have tried different outlets including different places in the house.

I cannot detect it with headphones at all.

Tonight I went crazy and ripped apart every single connection to my PC one by one then I went as far as removing the Sound Blaster, even removed my GTX1080 graphics card. I literally had nothing left connected to my computer not even a monitor. With just ONE LRS305 plugged into the 3.5mm motherboard out and the power cable to the PC power supply I pressed the power button and the Hums and Crackles were still present.

This doesn't happen when I connect the speakers using the same wire to my cell phone. It DOES however happen if I connect the LRS305s to my cell phone and plug my cell phone into my PC USB to charge.

At this point its obviously the PC motherboard or power supply.

My work around has been to put the volume knob on the back of the LRS to about 2.5 out of 10 and then crank up the DB settings on the Sound Blaster to +20 for each speaker. This makes it to where I can do daily tasks no problem and even enjoy some music at a moderate levels but I have noticed that the speakers don't seem to perform the right way when doing this even if the sound is being reproduced at relatively the same volume to my ears. Turning the knob up on the speakers even while lowering the volume in windows to compensate feels like it makes the speakers perform differently.

Also when I move around my mouse cursor on the screen it introduces a sort of electrical whine noise. And when playing a game it amplifies the hum. Again with the volume knob on on low settings I don't notice this.

My initial post was kept short with the intent to avoid having people to read this much but since you asked I figured I'd elaborate.

I'm so frustrated that I'm really considering returning the speakers and just getting the 2.1 Klipsch Pro Media at Best Buy for about 40% the cost. I probably won't enjoy the sound quality as much but at least I won't go insane trying to solve this issue without dumping more money into it.

But back to my original post about the Fiio and Behringer UC202. Do you have any info on this?

I also stumbled across a BEHRINGER MICROHD HD400 https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-HD400-BEHRINGER-MICROHD/dp/B000KUD2G4/ref=pd_sim_267_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=WKE1J7XXB0PJZKX2PDG4. This seems like it might be exactly what I need. Any idea?

One more thing the cable I'm using is a Hosa Stereo Breakout 3.5mm TRS To Dual 1/4" TS. My question is why can't I find a 3.5 TRS to 1/4" TRS just TS? Is my cable still considered balanced? Can this be causing a problem for my setup? Sorry if that's a stupid question but I'm lost when it comes to this stuff.

Thanks!

The G6 is around $150 correct?

​

In that case, a Schiit Modi 2 and JDS Labs Atom would be a good amp/dac stack for the same price. An upgrade would be the Schiit Modi 3, Topping D10, or ODAC for $50 extra instead of the Modi 2, but honestly the 2 is pretty solid.

I later remember that there exists standalone LPCM decoders (like this https://www.amazon.com/HDMI-LPCM-Analog-Surround-Decoder/dp/B071KXR3G2), so if your system allows direct audio input you could try it ;)

If you want to do it properly, you will want a USB Mixer that has both built in FX and Insert channels such as the Mackie ProFX8v2

And a dynamics processor Expander/Gate/Compressor/Limiter such as the DBX 166xs.

The mics connect to the mixer, then you use 2 Insert TRS(Tip-Ring-Sleeve) cables to run each mic into channel 1 and 2 on the back of the processor.

Inserts allow you to send audio to a processor and then back, all on the same cable (Example https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/STP201). It utilizes the 2 channels of a standard TRS connector, one to send, one to receive.

Because you have 2 mics in close proximity, the Expander and Gate will help limit spill from the other person talking further away, the compressor and limiter brings your dynamic range closer and boosts levels to increase your clarity.

This video explains how Inserts work

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NFArc1ZJdQw

I'd highly suggest XLR mics and an Audio mixer. For voice effects, you'll have best quality with a hardware voice transformer. There are lots of software options available, but they typically have limitations and quality issues.

Here's a few suggestions as to what you could use...

• Audio Mixer
  
  
• Microphone
  
  
• Voice Transformer
  
  Getting a good audio setup isn't cheap as you'll quickly see. lol. The microphone I linked is what I currently use and I love it. The Audio Mixer and Voice Transformer, I recently ordered myself so I can't fully say how good they are. But, they do have great reviews.

yeah, you should be able to use the DAW eq, and cut the high and high-mid levels til the hum/hiss goes away a bit, then record. then after the track is recorded, take and put the highs and high-mids up again. that might do the trick.
however, an easier way to do this is to get a DI box that has a ground switch on it. the grounding in those DI boxes can really help to kill hum by creating a reverse feedback loop of the hum that will cancel out the original hum, without affecting the sound of the mic itself. so you would go mic-> DI box-> interface. you can get one pretty cheap on amazon. like 20-30 bucks for a decent one. there are other devices that can also help you out. here are some of them:

DI box:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CCSWQA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
....

in-line hum killer:
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-GLT-255-Female-Ground-Stopper/dp/B00FC4YPL4/ref=sr_1_1?gclid=CjwKCAjwwvfrBRBIEiwA2nFiPYLmaB4BVKR6rNWVzM6W-E3Bqtg5P3KDDo648AMCk-n5ct-CQRdroBoCTrMQAvD_BwE&hvadid=345591872771&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9003283&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t2&hvqmt=e&hvrand=1374900578903071298&hvtargid=kwd-300662784413&hydadcr=29836_10192790&keywords=hosa+glt-255&qid=1568587585&s=gateway&sr=8-1
...

hum stopper box:
https://www.amazon.com/PYLE-PRO-PHE400-Eliminator-2-Channel-Outputs/dp/B00BARTW42/ref=asc_df_B00BARTW42/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312305907549&hvpos=1o16&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3250323847603544719&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003283&hvtargid=pla-406164115673&psc=1



and heres some sites to read as well:

http://recordinghacks.com/2013/02/18/fixing-microphone-hum/

...

https://www.techhive.com/article/3063590/how-to-get-rid-of-hum-and-eliminate-other-noises-from-your-audio-and-video-systems.html


good luck!

Behringer MICROHD Hum Destroyer HD400 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000KUD2G4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_E1FgzbPJ0HQXF

Try this it worked for me.

Kind Regards

Thank you Zeos for the RBH R5BIR video review (btw, link missing on this page currently). In that video you mentioned setting the crossover in your receiver but what about those that don't have this capability?

I have an Emotiva PT-100 stereo preamp. I don't believe the PT-100 has that capability (unless I'm mistaken). Is there an alternate solution for this? Perhaps something like the Behringer Super-X Pro Cx2310 or one of the Rolls crossovers (SX21 or SX45)? But for lower end equipment is this even worth it? Perhaps a cheaper solution is available? Or, by "just deal with it" should I conclude that bass management is simply not a thing for stereo-only systems?

Anyway, thanks for the video. If you have any video or material that covers setting the crossover point in your receiver (primarily covering what you do in situations where your electronics doesn't support it) I'd definitely be interested to see it.

Hello, sorry to pick your brain again but I'm still having some issue here. My current set up is as follows: Roland Fantom X8 keyboard -> 1/4 inch cable (3ft) -> Behringer Passive DI Box -> XLR to TRRS Smartphone Adapter -> HTC Desire Eye . I confirmed that the XLR to TRRS adapter follows the CTIA standard which I understand should work with the HTC (Android) phone. I tried simply recording video with the phone's built in camera app, however the phone is only picking up ambient noise using its built in mic. I tried recording audio only using the phone's "voice recorder" tool, with the same result. When I test record my voice using a headset with in-line mic, I have no problems. So my guess is that there is still some issue with the XLR to TRRS adapter. Is there something that I'm missing?

Before trying any crazy DIY solutions, try using balanced cables with your interface or try a ground loop isolator or hum destroyer. It may cost a little, but you can just return it if it doesn't work. Get something like this:

​

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-HD400-BEHRINGER-MICROHD/dp/B000KUD2G4/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1536690208&sr=1-1&keywords=behringer+hum+destroyer

I'm confused on how to change my setup to only use the compressor/limiter/gate on channel 1 (or use both channel 1 & 2) of my mixer.

I have a A&H ZED-10FX, dbx 166xs, and a focusrite solo.

Currently I have the mic going into channel 1 XLR of the mixer, the main L & R XLR out going into channel 1 XLR of the dbx 166xs, and channel 1 XLR out to the focusrite XLR in and then out to USB to the computer.

I know this is not the proper way to set this all up but it has worked for a few months okay now.

Now I want to isolate the compressor/limiter/gate so that it only works on channel 1 of the mixer so that I can add in another input to it that isn't affected by the dbx.

I would prefer to only use 1 channel on the dbx if that's possible to avoid.

It looks like the mixer does not have a single insert per channel, but I do see a L & R 1/4" main mix insert. I think I need to somehow utilize that for the dbx and then just output to usb recording on the mixer and ditch the focusrite. I tried reading the manual for the mixer but it went way over my head as I'm pretty green to this kind of audio equipment.

I'd recommend working your way up to 7 mics. If you try to buy all seven at once, you'll end up getting cheap ones, and it'll sound worse than buying four good ones. Monoprice has a decent matched pair of condensors for $100. For the snare, you can go with an SM57. They're $100 new, but you can get them more cheaply used, and they last forever. I have the same ones I used in highschool, and they still work just as well as the day I got them. You can use it on your guitar cab, as well (or just buy two for live tracking). I also use a Beta 52 for the kick drum. That runs for a bit under $200.

As for stands, if you're not using them live, Guitar Centre sells a 10 pack for about $90. They aren't perfect, but they'll work.

So, for good equipment, you're looking at almost $600 in mics alone. You can get cheaper kits, but the sound quality won't be as good and they'll break more easily. You get what you pay for.

For bass, I just DI. You can buy a proper DI box or just plug into the interface. But, for $40, having a few DI boxes around comes in handy, especially if you want to record live. You can also mic the bass cab with something like the aforementioned Beta 52.

As I said before, you'll want an SM57 for the guitar cab. It gets the job done, and is pretty much the industry standard. You can spend more on fancier mics, but that money is best spent elsewhere.

As for vocals, you can buy a decent condenser mic from Monoprice, but to start off, just use the same 57 you've used for the guitar and drums, and just put a $14 pop filter on it.

Finally, you'll need an interface. If you really want to track seven drum mics, I'd go with a Tascam 1800 or a Focusrite 18i20. The latter is better quality, but also double the price.

Sadly, there is no good cheap method of doing things. But here in the digital age, things are a whole lot easier than going through to a 4-track cassette Portastudio when I was your age. If I was in your place, and had $1,000 to spend, I'd buy the following:

Tascam US-1800 ($250)
Two Behringer DI-100s ($80)
The Monoprice Small-Dia Matched Condensers ($100)
Shure Beta 52 ($200)
Two SM57s (or 58s) ($200)
The Guitar Centre 10 Mic Stand pack ($90)

And spend the rest on XLR and 1/4" cables from Monoprice.

After working on recording and mixing for a while, see if you want to expand your drum tracking, or if you want to invest in additional gear as needed. Nothing sucks more than blowing your budget, never using a certain thing, but having to do without something you discover you need.

And most importantly of all, have fun with it. It's a great experience.

Amazon has this Behringer which looks to be about 24 cm wide about 12-13 cm deep by about 5cm tall.

I can't attest to its quality - but it certainly is small and appears to have mostly 4 and 5 star reviews.

Good point! I guess my question is biased, based on "new-ness", but to clarify I'm not implying that either company is intending to rip-off the other.

And about the noise.. I've diagnosed the issue. Running the H9 in Pre/Post, I'm experiencing a ground loop hum/feedback. And this is without using an amp's FX loop. So I guess power isn't the main issue, it happens with both the Eventide power adapter or by a high quality, isolated PSU.

Now I'm looking at something like this. I wish Eventide's site/support would build or recommend their preferred ground loop isolator, considering how often it is asked about on their forums.

A DI box converts unbalanced, high-impedance signals into balanced low-impedance ones, physically it will take the 1/4" output of your DM5 and convert it into an XLR input to the front-of-house mixer. Basically it's there so there isn't volume problems when connecting electronic instruments into a mixer. In terms of relatively cheap DIs I have experience using the Whirlwind IMP 2 which are relatively basic in terms of features, but should work well enough for your setup.

Bravo Audio V3 Tube Headphone Amplifier has a 3 band EQ.

Before the amp:

• Schiit Loki tone control $149. Popular and well rated. Optional Schiit Sys $49 switch to go with it. Magni $99 is the Schiit headphone amp. All 3 would make a nice Schiit stack.
  
• Behringer MiniFBQ FBQ800 Ultra-Compact 9-Band Graphic Equalizer $70.
  
• Mini DSP - I don't know which one would be ideal.
  
  DSP Phono preamp.
  
  
• Puffin Phono DSP from Parks Audio $400.
  
  Also check r/HeadphoneAdvice.

$149 there the passive Schiit Loki 4 band tone control -

• https://www.schiit.com/products/loki
  
  and a semi-mini EQ from Behringer for $69
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-FBQ800-BEHRINGER-MINIFBQ/dp/B000MJ406Y/

I can't seem to find the one you're referring to but it seems like the [schiit 2](schiit modi 2 usb digital/Schiit Modi 2 USB Digital/Analog Converter (Aluminum Top - Silver Anodized) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KX7LSYT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fei8CbFPRXCTA)) seems like that would work as both a pre-amp and DAC!

Something you'd recommend?

Not on a guitar but there are foot pedals that can do the same thing. I personally have this: http://www.amazon.co.uk/DigiTech-Whammy-DT-Effects-Pedal/dp/B0052QOU08/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459161464&sr=8-1&keywords=whammy+DT

It changes the sound coming out of speakers to reflect different tunings (though the guitar stays in whatever tuning it started in).

Recommend using headphones.

USB to 3.5mm, you mean a tiny-dac... Then yes... If it's something like the dragonfly then yes... Otherwise, no. A cable wont work. You need a dac to turn the digital (usb) signal into analog for normal headphones. AKA a digial to analog converter (dac).

edit: dragonfly is 99$ a bit high for what you prob need. I would look at something like this if you're tough on cash http://www.amazon.com/HiFiMeDIY-Digital-Analog-Converter-PCM2706/dp/B00CWVDPC0/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1458415493&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=usb+tiny+dac

Thanks, though some are pricey. Since saving money is paramount for me, which one would you recommend?

This one, perhaps? https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Ultra-High-Performance-Passive-Injection/dp/B000KUA8G6

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Microhd-Ultra-Compact-2-Channel-Destroyer/dp/B000KUD2G4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492456662&sr=8-1&keywords=buzz+box

From what I read in the description and reviews cheaper versions from the same brand like this one can do the same, just without the fancy touch screen and with a few options missing.

I just got a pair of jbl lsr305s and Im getting a lot of hiss. If they're powered on but dont have any inputs the hiss barely noticeable but once i connect them to my pc it becomes significantly louder. Im assuming I need a better dac ((current one)[https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0068IPE40/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1]) but before committing to getting a better one (probably an audioengine d1) I wanted to get some input as to whether that was the way to go.

I was also considering (this)[https://www.amazon.co.uk/Behringer-MICROHD-Hum-Destroyer-HD400/dp/B000KUD2G4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491419301&sr=8-1&keywords=hum+eliminator] to put between my current dac and the speakers as an alternative method.

Any ideas on which solution would yield better results?

EDIT: i plugged my dac (USB powered) in to a wall socket instead of powering it by my pc and it got rid of all my hissing. The hiss is barely audible; down to the level I get with just the speaker powered on with no audio inputs. I guess there was some interference or grounding issue.

A standard instrument cable is a quarter inch Tip-Sleeve Connection. It is an unbalanced cable. Which is fine for use with instruments obviously, but can lead to electrical interference, ground loops, and loss of signal over long lengths.
When you use a DI you want to use a balanced cable, basically a cable that is has a ground connection. The two most common kinds of balanced cables are XLR, and quarter inch TRS (Tip-Ring-Sleeve). TRS cables look almost identical to instrument cables.

This explains the difference: http://www.sweetwater.com/sweetcare/articles/whats-the-difference-between-ts-and-trs-cables/

This is probably way more in depth than you'll ever need, but it is a good reference: http://www.sweetwater.com/insync/cable-buying-guide/

Edit: To Clarify, when I say DI I mean using a DI box like this http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-DI400P-BEHRINGER-ULTRA-DI/dp/B000KUA8G6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417904828&sr=8-2&keywords=DI+box

If you are talking about just plugging your directly into an interface, an instrument cable will work just fine.

https://smile.amazon.com/Behringer-Minifbq-Ultra-Compact-Graphic-Equalizer/dp/B000MJ406Y

Okay - two things. That's still a pretty minimal stereo. I think I'll wait and give it a listen prior to ordering this though.

I didn't even know renting was an option?

I haven't heard of that here in the UK!

I think I'm gonna just try the DI option.

[This] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Behringer-DI20-Ultra-DI-Channel-Splitter/dp/B000CCSWQA/ref=lh_ni_t?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE) in particular!

You have a ground loop. I have a laptop and mixer setup (both on AC) that did this. They were connected through 1/4" audio plugs and had unbelievable noise for a bit. I used a noise/hum eliminator to separate the grounds between the equipment. This one from Behringer did the trick! http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-HD400-BEHRINGER-MICROHD/dp/B000KUD2G4 Put it in between the splitter and your amp and set the rocksmith mixer to zero.

Yes. This is the one I am using.

https://www.amazon.com/Whirlwind-1-channel-Passive-Instrument-Direct/dp/B0002DUQ72

Is this a good option for a cheap 'preamp' from an under soundboard passive pickup to a small amp, just for insode use, not gigging or anything?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KITQK2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5QHHzbWJH1P7Q

specifically, here is one example: https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-HD400-BEHRINGER-MICROHD/dp/B000KUD2G4/ref=sr_1_10?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1520458356&sr=1-10&keywords=hum+eliminator
but there are tons of other options you can look into.
People seem to have good success with these.
I believe they have different versions, and this one isn't one that has the lift/ground switch i spoke of.

Had the same exact problem - this little guy fixed it. No change to the sound quality.

Depending on your budget you may want to put money away for something like this.

Roland AIRA Series VT-3 Voice Transformer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IGDXK9Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gwhOAbVT433H7

When you use the walkie talkie (or indoors seems like there might an echo added) in the game it sounds like a PA, doubt he was using anything.
edit: its this https://www.amazon.com/Roland-AIRA-VT-3-Voice-Transformer/dp/B00IGDXK9Q

Yes, the adapter I'm currently using in conjunction with a normal Boss PSU is: https://www.amazon.com/Truetone-C35-Converter-Power-Supply/dp/B0040PX5QW

That sounds awesome. Is it this one by chance?

http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-FBQ800-BEHRINGER-MINIFBQ/dp/B000MJ406Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452121903&sr=8-1&keywords=Behringer+9+band+equalizer#Ask

Does it take analog input and outputs analog? I'm guessing I would do dac to this equalizer to my amp.

I have already done some research.

• This one i could use directly
  
  
  
• And this one, cheaper, where i would have to buy two 3,5>6,3 jacks.
  
  
  Are there any better solutions ?
  
  EDIT : I found this one wich is cheaper and passive. And i could use it by wiring my Xonar to it with my 3,5 TRS to double 6,35 TRS and then connect the Behringer with two 6,35 TRS to my speakers.
  
  I think I just answered myself but if someone has an advice say it !

I don't know of any alternatives to asio except using window's Direct Sound and that was awful in my experience. If you have another input available on your interface maybe you could play your tracks from your phone or tablet? But you would likely need an adapter like this http://www.amazon.com/Rapco-Horizon-LTIBLOX-Laptop-Interface/dp/B003MLFCMA

If the venue has a mic jack like this, you want a DI box, and a dual 1/4" to TRS mini cable, and a short XLR cable. Venues often can supply these things since this is an extremely common request from clients renting spaces. Is it a community hall or a hotel ballroom or what kind of space is it? In community centres there is often only one or two people who even know the parts exists in inventory and the rest of the staff has no idea and might say they don't have it. Dig deeper. Also if you have musician friends like guitar or bass players, they may have the items you require to borrow.

You'd need to put something between the Theremin and the amplifier in the powered speaker to isolate them, and match the impedance of a line-level input. I'd suggest something like a DI, or Direct Inject, Box which is a piece of professional audio equipment meant to do just that.

I use an ABY switch. I guess a looper with two outputs would work too, and a looper is a really good tool for jammin on your own. You can loop a chord progression and practice scales or improvise on top.

I think this is it (check the pics carefully):

https://www.amazon.com/Truetone-C35-Converter-Power-Supply/dp/B0040PX5QW

The biggest issue you will have is video latency/delay. The Elgato Game Capture HD60 will have a few seconds of delay on both the video and audio before it's sown in your streaming software.

If you want to control the audio from the PS4 and Xbox One with the mixer, you will need to get something to delay the audio to match it up or else the audio will be played in real time and the video show up later on the stream.

You will need some expensive equipment to delay the audio in real time (it can be done easily in software but you need either another computer to do it or bypass the mixer completely). Considering the audio will be most likely stereo, you will need two audio delay boxes. The only one I can think of on top of my head that's not "too expensive" is the Behringer Shark FBQ100 but you will need two. They can delay the audio to up to 2.5 seconds (WHICH MAY NOT BE ENOUGH FOR THE ELGATO!)

How do you exactly get the audio from the Xbox and PS4? With a digital to analog converter. Use the optical out on the consoles and RCA to jacks from it and into the mixer.

You ask what headset you should buy. If you plan on using the mixer with a gaming headset you have to look elsewhere because that will not work. You can use a gaming headset with audio only via the headphone out on the mixer with but you need a proper microphone to use with the mixer.

Is this all worth doing with your current setup? Absolutely not. The first thing you need to do is replace your capture card with something that's low latency.

The best capture card you can get for this today is the Micomsoft SC-512N1-L/DVI. It's a tad expensive but worth every penny. A step down would be the Black Magic Intensity Pro (which I currently use and own with audio going into my Behringer 802USB mixer). The other "gaming" capture card brands has some low latency cards as well but I would not recommend them.

Once you have a low latency capture card you can start plugging your consoles audio into it.

What is the difference between the Behringer Shark DSP110 and the BEHRINGER SHARK FBQ100? I get that they're both feedback suppressors, but they seem quite similar to me and at the same price point.

[Something like this ?] (https://www.amazon.de/dp/B000KUA8G6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_Gzb9AbC80P234)

Is this the only thing that you use for you setup, or do you also have an audio interface/DAC ?

What do you think of a direct input like the Behringer? It's got great reviews.

After a bit more investigating I came across this

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KUD2G4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER

For $29. I think I might go ahead and pick one up, I'll let you all know if it works

This is the exact one I am using:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B004NDJRKO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Before I ask my dumb question, wanted to give a big thank you! Pretty much ready to throw in the towel here.

Alright: So do I apply any gain on my mixer? The microphone volume knob, and the stereo out knob both give volume. I've been using these to avoid mouth sounds. I then added more volume via the compressor's output. I kept the gain knob on the mixer all the way to the left.

Here's a picture of the mixer: http://media.musiciansfriend.com/is/image/MMGS7/MG10XU-10-Channel-Mixer-with-Effects/J06370000000000-00-500x500.jpg

If I apply gain on the mixer, how do you stop mouth sounds? Tried everything from green apples to drowning myself.

Alright dude. I'll start with this and come back with the results. Would that be okay?

If you want to eliminate it for sure I'd go with a ground loop isolator. I had the same issue with my hd650s and it fixed it completely.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000KUD2G4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 This is the one I used but you'll need to buy cables to fit your setup as the ports on this one are all phono.

If you want to test if this will work try the dac on a laptop that's not plugged in, if the humming goes away then the isolator will fix it.

On the off chance that anyone has the same issue, buying this completely solved the problem without any noticable loss in audio fidelity. I have it in between my sound card and my speakers. I was very dubious, especially with Behringer's reputation for budget gear, but it's solved everything.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000KUD2G4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You have a similar setup to what I have, and the noise sounds pretty much the same as what I used to have in my setup. What I had to do was add in two hum destroyers (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KUD2G4/), one in-line between each PC and the mixer.

I have a cord from the PC's speaker out, which splits into two RCA males for L/R (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0094A1F3S/), and plugs into the hum destroyer, and then another set of cords from the hum destroyer into the mixer (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I0HPK6O/). Same setup from each PC (streaming and gaming).

After adding those, my sound is crystal clear now. So can't guarantee that will fix your problem, but it fixed mine, which sounded similar.

Looks like you're using a mixer, so I would add in a "hum destroyer" in-line with each source coming from the streaming PC and the gaming PC into the mixer.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KUD2G4/

The only solution I see above is buying a new av receiver + set of speakers, which I believe is far more expensive than buying a 5.1 home cinema with blue-ray/dvd player integrated. That is why I see the first option only as the last resort...

What about this?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B071KXR3G2/ref=dp_olp_new_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=new

It has HDMI LPMC 5.1 in (exactly what Nintendo Switch uses), and optical/analog out (that should fit in the blue-ray/dvd player). What I do not see is the splitter function, but there should exist an splitter with this same compatibility...

Sounds like a ground loop to me. I had some trouble with a ground loop a couple of months ago and this comment ended up helping out a lot to understand what exactly might be the source of the sound: https://www.reddit.com/r/edmproduction/comments/502u0x/i_cant_get_this_hum_out_of_my_audio_recordings/d71kmiz/

Biggest take away (and my best guess) is that it's an electrical issue. If you can't find it and are looking for an equipment solution, this helped me and is relatively inexpensive: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CCSWPQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hope this helps!

Im looking to upgrade my audio into a xlr setup from a usb mic. I broadcast on Twitch (live streaming service) and I have some questions about what equipment would be best for my application.

For my mic, I was going to purchase the Rode NT1
Is a condensor mic best for what I'll be doing? (Disclaimer: I yell a lot)

I was going to purchase the Focusrite Scarlett 2i2
Is it worth it to purchase this two channel audio interface, or should I buy the single input version for a cheaper price? I'm only going to be using a single mic, but I read that the quality of the 2i2 build is a bit better.

My final question is on whether or not I should purchase a Compressor/Gate to reduce clipping when I yell, or is it possible or to compress my audio with a software program? Trying to see if dropping the money on the compressor would be worth it. This is the compressor/gate I was looking at: DBX 266xs

Thanks ahead of time! I really do appreciate your help! :)

I've had SOME success at long last. After inspecting the cables that came with the set carefully, i noticed that they were not balanced at all. Just because I was using a balanced connection doesn't mean I was using balanced cables. I assumed they were without checking as they came with the speakers as part of a bundle.

You can check this yourself by the amount of rings on the tip of the cable. If there is one black ring, it is not balanced, if there are two, then it is balanced.

Anyways this reduced the buzz by about 60/70%. The issue is still there but at a much reduced level. I will be trying this Hum Destroyer to see if it will break the ground and remove the problem entirely.

Thank you for the response.

I picked up 2x balanced XRS to 1/4 TS cables to go from my mixer output to the monitors. No change, unfortunately. The same goes with a power conditioner.

I ordered this 'hum destroyer' which I hope I'm understanding correctly is an AGDC2, or ground isolator. I'll place it between my line out to TS and the input to the mixer. Hopefully that will help, as the output from the line out isn't balanced right now.

If that doesn't fix it, I'll probably have to return my 308s as I don't know what else it could be.

My amp doesn't have a DI output unfortunately... would something like this be good?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000KUA8G6/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1479535732&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=active+di+box&dpPl=1&dpID=414veu%2B2FtL&ref=plSrch

There are ones that cost way more than this. My bass doesn't have active pickups so I probably shouldn't get an active di box rather than a passive one, right?

I just went through the same thing with my usb dac. I tried a y cable with separate power source and then a ferrite cable. Nothing worked it was a ground loop. I ended up eliminating the noise with http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KUD2G4/ . There are cheaper and more expensive options but this unit works great.

I am running the e10k to a little dot 1+ and I would get the same noise through the dac or sound card. Read more about it here: http://schiit.com/faq/amp-problems

I've already got Logic, which as I understand is a great option/competitor to Reaper, though some of my windows-using friends swear by it too!

I also already have an input/DI for sound box, sorry if I made that unclear in what I called it. I have the Focusrite Scarlett 2i2, which connects via USB. What I was wondering was if per my concerns about a clean signal through that from my guitar, I could help things by buying a product like this one to change my guitar signal to a mic-level XLR connection before routing it to the Scarlett box.

Basically you will need a couple of things:

• Some way to get sound from your bass to your computer. I'd recommend a DI. Some amps include them, or you can purchase one for not too much money (e.g. Behringer has a $20 one).
  
• Some way to get the audio into your computer. There are relatively cheap USB or Firewire audio interfaces out there. I have a Focusrite Saffire 6 that was under $200 and works well.
  
• Some software to record and process the audio. There are many options; Reaper is relatively cheap and free to try.
  
  All told you can probably spend less than $300 and have a solid setup for most things you would do.